9.1.

0 HOUSEKEEPING, AND LAUNDRY OPERATIONS

INTRODUCTION TO ACCOMMODATION OPERATIONS

Definition of Terms

Housekeeping
Housekeeping or House cleaning is the systematic process of making a building neat and clean in
approximately that order. This may be applied more broadly that just an individual building, or
as a metaphor for a similar "clean up" process applied elsewhere such as a procedural reform. It
can also be called household management, which is the act of overseeing the organizational,
financial, day-to-day operations of a building or estate, and the managing of other domestic
concerns.

Accommodation
Accommodation (in British usage) or accommodations (in American usage) refers to lodging in a
dwelling or similar living quarters afforded to travelers in hotels or on cruise ships, or prisoners,
etc.

Operations
These are jobs or tasks comprising of one or more elements or sub-tasks, and which are
performed typically in one location.

Laundry is a noun that refers to the act of washing and finishing of clothes and linens, the place
where that washing is done, and/or that which needs to be, is being, or has been laundered.

The Components of the accommodation department

Hotels and Motels are organized into departments or Divisions. Each department or division is
responsible for a particular operational function or functions. Most large properties have a room
division which included several departments such as the front office, laundry and housekeeping.
These are known as revenue –generating centers. Others are considered to be support centers.
The executive in charge of the room division is the Rooms Division Director who in some
properties may be called Residence Manager, Executive manager, or Senior Manager. The room
Division Director reports directly to the General Manger. As a part of the executive committee,
the Room Division Director takes an active part in policy-making decision related to operations.

Identification of Accommodation areas

Guestrooms / Floors:
Room attendants and floor supervisors are responsible for the
cleanliness maintenance and security of guestrooms and surrounding
areas.
Public Areas:
a) Front of the building areas. (E.g. swimming pools, parking area,
club, food service area etc.
b) Back of the building areas.(E.g. Staff canteen, service elevator,
locker rooms, administrative canteen, laundry, linen rooms,
basement, store except kitchen which is cleaned by the kitchen
stewards)
c) Linen and Uniform rooms:
The housekeeping department is responsible for its functioning for
the repairs and renewal of linen and for maintenance of proper
inventory and stock records of all linen items. Linen includes room
linen, food service linen, soft furnishings, uniforms, bed and bath
linen.
d) Laundry: OPL (On Premises Laundry):
If the laundry is on premises then the guest laundry from the rooms
is directly collected and delivered by the laundry ballet. However all
hotel linen is first collected in the linen room and then sent to the
laundry for washing. OPL (off premises laundry) is the laundry of
both the guest and linen which is done by the external laundry. All
the linen including the guest laundry is collected in the linen room
from it is sent to the external laundry for washing. The washed linen
including the guest laundry is collected at the linen from where it is
sent to the guest rooms and other service points.
e) Sanitary areas

Unit Task 3: Organizational Structures for various accommodation establishments

Duties of Accommodation Staff

In a hotel it is generally accepted that a Head Housekeeper is one who supervises three or more
assistant Housekeeper. The housekeeper may be responsible for the following members of staff.

Assistant Housekeeper (floor housekeepers or floor supervisors)

Supervises the maids and carry out work delegated by the housekeeper while the total number
will vary according to the type of hotel; a general rule is one assistant housekeeper for 50 rooms

Room maids
Are responsible for the servicing of the guests’ bedrooms, private sitting rooms and often private
bathrooms and are also on call for service to guests. A maid may be expected to service 10-15
rooms in an eight-hour shift e.g. 7 am to 3 pm or 8 am to 4 pm
Staff maids
Clean the rooms of the living-in staff
Cleaners
Are usually part-time whose job is to clean offices, public rooms, bathrooms & ladies
cloakrooms. In some hotels, this work can be done by full-time housemaids or corridor maids
There are firms which undertake contract cleaning and some hotels use this service although the
housekeeper still ‘vets’ the work
Linen keeper
Supervises the work of the line room and who may have several linen maids to assist her in
providing clean, presentable linen throughout the building
Cloakroom attendant
Looks after the ladies’ powder room
House porters
They work consists of the removal of rubbish, the shifting of furniture, heavy vacuum cleaning
and other odd jobs
Valets
Usually work only in first-class hotels and are responsible for the valeting of the clothes of the
guests and may combine this with some of the less dirty jobs of the house porter
He may be a member of the uniformed staff
A florist
May be one of the housekeeping staff, but in some hotels the housekeeper or her assistants may
arrange the flowers and in others there may be contract arrangement.

The Aims of Housekeeper

Achieve the maximum efficiency in the care and comfort of the guests and in the smooth running
of the department
Establish a welcoming atmosphere and a courteous, reliable service from all staff of the
department
Ensure high standards of cleanliness and general upkeep in all areas for which she is responsible
Train, control and supervise all staff attached to the department
Establish a good working relationship with other departments
Ensure that safety and security regulations are made known to all staff of the department Keep
the general manager or administrator informed of all matters requiring attraction
Responsibilities of Housekeeper
The housekeeper has the following responsibilities:
Co-operation with other departments
Engagement, dismissal and welfare of staff
Deployment, supervision, control and training of staff
Compilation of duty rosters, holiday lists and wage sheets
Checking the cleanliness of all areas for which she is responsible
Completion and/or checking of room occupancy lists
Dealing with guests’ complaints and requests
Reporting and checking of all maintenance work
Control and supervision of the work of the linen room and possibly an in-building laundry
Dealing with lost property
Control of all keys in the department
Prevention of fire and other accidents in the department
Ordering and control of stores, equipment, cleaning agents in the department
Being willing to advise on the interior design of the rooms, cleaning and associated contracts
Pest control
Keeping inventories and records of equipment, redecoration and any other relevant details of the
department
Floral decorations

The Attributes of a housekeeper

A housekeeper’s attributes includes:
An interest in people and fact in handling them
A pleasant personality and the ability to converse with all types of people
An ability to hide personal likes and dislikes and to be fair and just
Strictness regarding punctuality and the keeping of necessary rules
Loyalty to the establishment and to her staff
Critical powers of observation
A sense of humour
An adaptability and willingness to experiment with new ideas, use initiative and take
responsibility
A cool head to deal with any emergencies

HYGIENE DURING OPERATIONS

Defining terms
Hygiene
Hygiene refers to the set of practices associated with the preservation of health and healthy
living. Hygiene is a concept related to medicine, as well as to personal and professional care
practices related to most aspects of living, although it is most often associated with cleanliness
and preventative measures.
The term "hygiene" is derived from Hygeia, the Greek goddess of health, cleanliness and
sanitation. Hygiene is also the name of the science that deals with the promotion and
preservation of health, also called hygienics.

Infections
An infection is the detrimental colonization of a host organism by a foreign species. In an
infection, the infecting organism seeks to utilize the host's resources to multiply, usually at the
expense of the host.

Personal Hygiene Measures Applicable during Operations

Reasons for Personal Hygiene

Personal hygiene is important for the following reasons:

To Improve Health
Wash your hands frequently. Good personal hygiene can make you a healthier person. Regular
bathing and hand washing will prevent many illnesses by killing the unseen germs found on our
bodies.
To Prevent Body Odor
Apply deodorant daily. Good personal hygiene will prevent body odor. Washing every day and
using a good antiperspirant or deodorant will remove the body chemicals that cause odor.
To Improve Self-Esteem
Go about your day with confidence. Good personal hygiene also improves self-esteem and
confidence. If you know you are clean, you can go about your daily activities without worrying
that body odors may be offending others.

To Prevent Skin Problems

Good personal hygiene may prevent athlete's foot and other skin conditions that are caused from
lack of washing.

To Prevent Dental Problems

Brush your teeth three times a day. Good personal hygiene will prevent bad breath and tooth
decay. Brushing and flossing your teeth three times a day will keep your breath smelling clean. It
will also please your dentist.

How to practice good hygiene

1. Wash your hands after coming into contact with germs, which can be found
almost everywhere. When you are preparing uncooked meat or have gone to
the bathroom, or done anything that brings your body into contact with
germs, it's important to wash your hands. E. coli, hepatitis and other
infectious diseases can be transmitted if you bring contaminated hands into
contact with someone’s face or body. It is recommended that you use an
antibacterial soap when washing hands to ensure that you kill all, or most,
germs that could be present on your hands and forearms.
2. Brush your teeth 2-3 times a day. Brushing your teeth as recommended by
 your dental professional results in a good, healthy personal appearance and
oral health. If you don't brush your teeth as recommended, you could face an
array of dental problems including: tooth decay, gingivitis, bad breath and so
on. The bacterium that form in your mouth between brushing or overnight
causes these dental problems. You are advised to brush your teeth and rinse
with an antiseptic mouthwash each day at least 2-3 times per day to fight off
these bacterium.
3. Bathe daily. Taking a bath is key to more than just your overall hygiene but
also results in ridding your body of bacteria. Not bathing can lead to an over
accumulation of bacteria that can cause odor and certain types of infection,
primarily in women. You are encouraged to bath at least 1-2 times per day
with an antibacterial soap. Some antibacterial soaps may cause an allergic
reaction. Ask your physician which soap you should use.
4. Wash your hair daily. If you don't wash your hair, you could develop
dandruff problems and lice. Ridding yourself of lice can be difficult. Buy a
shampoo that fights dandruff and moisturizes and improves the quality of
your hair. This is good way to maintain the overall health of your hair. If
you have a problem with dry scalp, consult with a dermatologist about the
possibility of getting a prescription shampoo.
5. Don't use anything that has come into contact with another person's body
fluids. This is a very important step in practicing good hygiene. Don't use or
touch syringes or any other type of medical or personal item that has come
into contact with another person's fluids. Using someone’s personal items
could put you in danger of contracting a very serious illness or condition.
Sometimes, even if you know someone, you should still refrain from her
personal items.

Environmental Hygiene requirements during Operations

Waste Disposal
Waste disposal is a growing problem worldwide. Although there have been recent advancements
in waste disposal, it remains an overall public safety and environmental health issue that
countries around the world continue to address.

Prevention and Reduction

The best method of managing waste is prevention and reduction, which can be achieved in a
number of ways like recycling and making use of secondhand items.
Energy Recovery
Energy recovery is a promising form of waste disposal. It works by recycling some forms of
waste into a fuel source for heating, cooking and powering turbines.
Biological Reprocessing
Biological reprocessing methods such as composting can be used for organic waste like food,
paper and plant material.
Sanitary Landfill
Sanitary landfill disposal is convenient but may experience a lot of growth and require
manpower to maintain.
Incineration
Incineration is popular due to the minimal land available for disposal, but there is some concern
about the release of micro-pollutants like dioxins from incinerator stacks.
Ocean Dumping
Controversy surrounds ocean dumping as a waste disposal method. Although the waste may
provide nutrients for some sea life, it's widely believed that the harmful effects would outweigh
any benefits.
Feeding animals

Guidelines for Disposal of Hazardous Waste

Hazardous waste has immediate or long-term risks to humans, animals, plants or the
environment. Because of this, it is unsafe to dispose it with general waste and needs specific
disposal methods. Identifying the most common types of household and business hazardous
wastes is the first step. Knowing the basic guidelines of disposal will make it easier for you to
protect yourself, your family and our environment.
Household Hazardous Waste
House hold waste is considered hazardous if it is labeled toxic, ignitable, corrosive or reactive.
Some of the common ones are gasoline, brake and windshield wiper fluid, cleaning products,
creosote products, paints, paint thinners, pesticides and herbicides.
Business Hazardous Waste
Hazardous waste from business is waste from medical, nursing, dental, veterinary or
pharmaceutical practices. These often include needles, human tissue, body fluids or blood,
laboratory specimens or cultures, carcasses, laboratory equipment, chemical and radioactive
waste.

Identification and Packaging

Keep household hazardous waste in their original containers and do not mix it with different
products. If you are forced to move products from their original containers for storage, label the
new containers carefully for future identification.
Hazardous waste from business needs to be packed in plastic bags or containers that are easily
identified by the color coding identifying the type of waste inside them.
Biohazardous waste is packed in yellow containers or plastic bags with the black international
biohazard symbol on them.
Radioactive waste is packed in red plastic bags or containers with the black international
radioactive symbol
Cell toxic waste, also called cytotoxic waste, is packed in violet plastic bags or containers
labeled with the international cell toxic waste symbol.

Storage
Keep all flammable products out of direct sunlight and away from heat, sparks or flames.
Store all containers in an upright position in a cardboard box instead of plastic bags and place
leaking containers in a larger plastic container with a tight-fitting lid.
All hazardous waste generated by business needs to be stored in a safe and secure location.
Waste identified as high or extremely risky should not be stored with the rest of hazardous waste.
This kind of waste needs to be picked up by special arrangement, possibly outside of the regular
hazardous waste pickup.

Disposal
The safest way to dispose of household hazardous waste is to either contact a hazardous waste
pickup company in your community or bring it to a household hazardous waste collection site if
one exists. Depending on where you live both services might have a fee. It is, however, illegal to
leave hazardous waste for curbside pickup.
Hazardous waste generated by businesses is collected and disposed by an authorized waste
contractor who will collect the waste on a scheduled date from the designated location.

Control of pests and rodents

Pest control refers to the regulation or management of a species defined as a pest, usually
because it is perceived to be detrimental to a person's health, the ecology or the economy.
Pests are beneficial as well as a curse to mankind. Animals, bacteria and some insects are
beneficial to people in many ways, but the same time they can also be pests. Pests such as rats,
ants, cockroaches, mice and flies are common in houses and apartments. There should be an
effective pest control to prevent pests in multiplying themselves in houses, which include
effective pest management, pest control and pest prevention.

Pest Management
The best and most effective way for controlling pests is pest management which includes many
steps.
The first and most important step in Pest Control is to identify the pest problem. This includes
finding out exactly what you are up against. Some pests (bacteria, animals) are really helpful to
people, so it is very important to find out any harmful pests.
The second thing is to decide how much pest control is necessary. Only the family who live in
the affected area can judge how serious it is to take action.
The third thing is to choose an available option for pest control such as chemical pest control or
non chemical pest control.
You can control pests by many means; some of the options available are:-
 Non Chemical pest control
 Chemical pest control
 Biological Methods

Non-chemical methods of pest control

The range of non-chemical options available may vary with the pest species, pest intensity or
severity, and effectiveness of the option. Several key non-chemical options that may help reduce
the amount of pesticides used in and around homes are listed below. However, it is important to
realize that for effective use of non-chemical methods, an understanding of pest biology,
ecology, and behaviour is essential. Such an understanding is not always required when using
synthetic pesticides.
Exclusion: Any measure used to prevent entry of organisms indoors through openings in the
building structure, doors, windows, or on infested plant or food materials. Some techniques
include screening openings to prevent entry of flies, mosquitoes, and beetles; caulking cracks
and crevices to remove existing or potential harborages of pantry pests and cockroaches; and
sealing or repairing exterior openings to prevent entry of bats, mice, bees, and wasps. Plants and
food products must be carefully inspected for infestations at the time of purchase and before they
are brought indoors.
Sanitation: Maintaining clean surroundings both outdoors and indoors removes potential areas
where pests can feed, breed, and hide. Sanitary measures include: disposing of garbage on a
weekly basis during warm weather to control filth flies and cockroaches; discarding overripe
fruits to control fruit flies and fungus beetles; removing bird nests as these harbor dermestids,
clothes moths, mites, and lice; and vacuuming to reduce populations of fleas, carpet beetles,
house dust mites, and several ground-dwelling insects and insect relatives. It is also important to
keep kitchen areas clean to reduce incidence of pantry pests and cockroaches.
Habitat modification: Includes any method used to eliminate or disrupt areas where pests reside.
For example, removing weeds and keeping well-mowed lawns reduces incidence of crickets and
ticks. Removing debris and fallen leaves near foundations reduces bug and centipede
populations. Wood or wooden piles, where carpenter ants, ground beetles, and spiders seek
harborage, must be stored away from structures. Creating a vegetation-free barrier around the
perimeter of the building will reduce incidence of many ground-dwelling pests such as clover
mites. The use of dehumidifiers is recommended, especially in basements, to create and maintain
a dry environment to discourage incidence of sowbugs, centipedes, firebrats, and house dust
mites.
Temperature control: Artificially manipulating the temperature of substrates infested by pests or
areas where pests reside is an inexpensive nonchemical strategy. The time from treatment to
death of a pest and numbers of the pest killed, may vary with the pest stage, temperature, and
duration of exposure. Pantry pests, clothes moths, and carpet beetles can be eliminated by
subjecting infested foods, clothes, and carpets, respectively, to extremely hot or cold
temperatures. In general, all developmental stages of pantry pests, clothes moths, and carpet
beetles can be killed within minutes to hours when exposed to temperatures below 32° F and
above 104° F.

Mechanical control: A rolled newspaper or magazine and fly swatters are some tools used for
killing visible and less mobile or immobile pests. On infested plants, hand-picking insects (e.g.,
hornworms) is a partially effective means of pest control. Infested leaves must be excised from
plants, bagged, and discarded.
Traps: Traps are escape-proof devices that capture highly mobile and active pests. Live traps can
be used for rabbits, pocket gophers, and squirrels. Unbaited sticky traps such as red spheres,
resembling apples, are useful for trapping apple maggot adults. Colored (yellow) sticky traps are
effective in capturing whiteflies and aphids. Sticky traps can be baited with commercial lures
(pheromones and food attractants) to enhance trap catch. For example, sticky traps baited with
lures for pantry pests, wasps, and flies are commercially available.
Traps are useful for early detection and continuous monitoring of infestations. They are not
effective in reducing populations unless the pest population is isolated or confined to a small
area. The chance of detecting the presence of pests in a given area is related to the number of
traps used. Therefore, when pests are present in very low numbers, it is advantageous to use
more than a few traps. Pests must be active or mobile to be captured in traps. Therefore, any
environmental variable (temperature, humidity, wind, light, or food) or biological factor (age,
sex, mating status, etc.) that influence pest activity, affects trap catch. Consequently, absence of
pests in traps does not imply that the pests are not present in the sampled area.
Chemical Pest Control
Another good solution for pest control is the use of chemical pesticides. It is not advisable in and
around the home and commercial premises, as it will affect people adversely. The major
drawback of this method is that the results of the chemical pesticides treatment are generally
temporary, therefore the need for repeated treatments. If used incorrectly, home-use pesticides
can be poisonous to humans. While you are using chemical pesticides for pest control, the most
important thing to remember is to take care in choosing the right pesticide product.

Biological Pest Control

Another effective way in controlling pests is using the biological method. This is the method of
using pest's natural enemies to control them. Spiders, centipedes, ground beetles and ants are
some of the beneficial bugs. This method is not harmful to people in any means and can be
implemented effectively.

Rodent Control
Rodents (rats and mice) live in the environment we create for them. They will eat almost any
foodstuff, which can include bird and pet foods, vegetables stored in outdoor sheds, peelings that
are added to open compost bins and household garbage that is not adequately secured.
It is a myth that rodents only exist in dirty environments, as all they require is a source of food,
water and a safe place to nest. Rodents usually live within 15.25 to 45.75 metres (50 to 150 feet)
or their food source. Nesting burrows are often found in areas not frequented by humans, such
as:
in and around open compost bins (even if it only contains grass clippings). Compost bins can be
screened to help exclude rodents and if properly maintained should not be a problem.
in woodpiles.
under storage sheds and storage piles.
in non-maintained yard areas.
in refuse storage areas.
The most common methods of rodent control are through the use of traps and anticoagulant baits.
Traps: Rodents are wary of new things in their environment. Place traps against perimeter walls
(perpendicular) so that rodents will have to walk overtop of the release mechanism. Baits that
work well include hot dog wieners or peanut butter. Make sure the baits are fresh. It can be
helpful to bait the trap without setting it until rodents are used to coming to it for food. After they
are coming to the trap you can set it with more confidence.
Baits: Anticoagulant baits can be toxic to humans and pets as well as rodents. They should
always be contained in a tamper-proof bait station. Poison baits should not be used indoors as
inaccessible decaying rodents can cause odour problems that are difficult to resolve.
If you find dead rodents in the yard, dispose of them as quickly as possible by picking them up
with a shovel and placing them in a transparent green bag. It can be set out with your regular
waste.
Rodent Control Responsibility
The responsibility for rodent control rests with the landowner. The pest control officer can assist
with property inspection and make recommendations for by-law enforcement if required.
Tenants are protected through minimum standards by-laws but are encouraged to cooperate with
their landlords by ensuring good housekeeping
Unit Task 5: Explaining the Role of the Public Health Act in hygiene

Common Infections in housekeeping

Common infections that could be spread by incorrect hygiene practices include:

Influenza(cold)
Influenza, commonly called "the flu," is an illness caused by RNA viruses that infect the
respiratory tract of many animals, birds, and humans. In most people, the infection results in the
person getting fever, cough, headache, and malaise (tired, no energy); some people also may
develop a sore throat, nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The majority of individuals have
symptoms for about one to two weeks and then recover with no problems. However, compared
with most other viral respiratory infections, such as the common cold, influenza (flu) infection
can cause a more severe illness with a mortality rate (death rate) of about 0.1% of people who
are infected with the virus.
What are flu symptoms?
Typical clinical features of influenza include:
fever (usually 100 F-103 F in adults and often even higher in children),
respiratory symptoms such as:
cough,
sore throat,
runny or stuffy nose,
headache,
muscle aches, and
fatigue, sometimes extreme.

Rotavirus
Rotavirus is a virus that infects the bowels. It is the most common cause of severe diarrhoea
among infants and children throughout the world and causes the death of about 600,000 children
worldwide annually. The name rotavirus comes from the characteristic wheel-like appearance of
the virus when viewed by electron microscopy (the name rotavirus is derived from the Latin rota,
meaning "wheel").
The time period from initial infection to symptoms (incubation period) for rotavirus disease is
around two days. Symptoms of the disease include fever, vomiting, and watery diarrhea.
Abdominal pain may also occur, and infected children may have profuse watery diarrhea up to
several times per day. Symptoms generally persist for three to nine days. Immunity from
repeated infection is incomplete after a rotavirus infection, but repeated infections tend to be less
severe than the original infection.
Rotavirus infection can be associated with severe dehydration in infants and children. Severe
dehydration can lead to death in rare cases, so it is important to recognize and treat this
complication of rotavirus infection. In addition to the symptoms of rotavirus infection discussed
above, parents should be aware of the symptoms of dehydration that can occur with rotavirus
infection or with other serious conditions
How is rotavirus spread?
Rotavirus infection is highly contagious. The primary mode of transmission of rotavirus is the
passage of the virus in stool to the mouth of another child. This is known as a fecal-oral route of
transmission. Children can transmit the virus when they forget to wash their hands before eating
or after using the toilet. Touching a surface that has been contaminated with rotavirus and then
touching the mouth area can result in infection.
There also have been cases of low levels of rotavirus in respiratory-tract secretions and other
body fluids. Because the virus is stable (remains infective) in the environment, transmission can
occur through ingestion of contaminated water or food and contact with contaminated surfaces.
Rotavirus can survive for days on hard and dry surfaces, and it can live for hours on human
hands.

Norovirus
Noroviruses are a group of viruses that cause the "stomach flu," or gastroenteritis in people. The
term norovirus was recently approved as the official name for this group of viruses. Several other
names have been used for noroviruses, including:
Norwalk-like viruses (NLVs)
caliciviruses (because they belong to the virus family Caliciviridae)
small round structured viruses.
Viruses are very different from bacteria and parasites, some of which can cause illnesses similar
to norovirus infection. Like all viral infections, noroviruses are not affected by treatment with
antibiotics, and cannot grow outside of a person's body.
What are the symptoms of illness caused by noroviruses?
Norovirus infection usually starts suddenly. The infected person often feels very sick with nausea
and vomiting and watery non-bloody diarrhea with stomach cramps. Vomiting is more common
in children than adults. Sometimes there is a low-grade fever. There may also be chills,
headache, muscle aches, and a general sense of tiredness.
What is the name of the illness caused by noroviruses?
Illness caused by norovirus infection has several names, including:
stomach flu—this "stomach flu" is not related to the flu (or influenza), which is a respiratory
illness caused by influenza virus.
viral gastroenteritis—the most common name for illness caused by norovirus. Gastroenteritis
refers to an inflammation of the stomach and intestines.
acute gastroenteritis
non-bacterial gastroenteritis
food poisoning (although there are other causes of food poisoning)
calicivirus infection

Diphtheria
Diphtheria is an infectious disease caused by the bacterium Corynebacterium diphtheriae. This
disease primarily affects the mucous membranes of the respiratory tract (respiratory diphtheria),
although it may also affect the skin (cutaneous diphtheria) and lining tissues in the ear, eye, and
the genital areas.
How is diphtheria transmitted?
Diphtheria is transmitted to close contacts via airborne respiratory droplets or by direct contact
with nasopharyngeal secretions or skin lesions. Rarely, it can be spread by objects contaminated
by an infected person. Overcrowding and poor living conditions can further contribute to the
spread of diphtheria.
Humans are the only known reservoir of Corynebacterium diphtheriae. Infected individuals may
develop symptoms of diphtheria, or they may become carriers of the bacteria with no symptoms
(asymptomatic carriers). These asymptomatic carriers can serve as reservoirs for active infection
and may transmit the disease to other individuals.
What are the signs and symptoms of diphtheria?
The symptoms of respiratory diphtheria usually begin after a two- to five-day incubation period.
Symptoms of respiratory diphtheria may include the following:
sore throat,
fever,
malaise,
hoarseness,
difficulty swallowing, or
difficulty breathing.

E. coli
What is E. coli?
Escherichia coli (E. coli) is a bacterium that commonly lives in the intestines of people and
animals. There are many strains (types) of E. coli.
Most of the E. coli are normal inhabitants of the small intestine and colon and are non-
pathogenic, meaning they do not cause disease in the intestines. Nevertheless, these non-
pathogenic E. coli can cause disease if they spread outside of the intestines, for example, into the
urinary tract (where they cause bladder or kidney infections) or into the blood stream (sepsis).
Some strains of E. coli are pathogenic, meaning they can cause disease in the small intestine and
colon. These pathogenic strains of E. coli may cause diarrhoea by producing and releasing toxins
(called enterotoxigenic E. coli or ETEC) that cause the intestine to secrete fluid or by invading
and inflaming the lining of the small intestine and the colon (called enteropathogenic E. coli or
EPEC). A third strain of E. coli has a tendency to cause inflammation of the colon and bloody
diarrhoea (called enterohemorrhagic E. coli or EHEC).

Hepatitis A
Hepatitis means inflammation of the liver
When doctors speak of viral hepatitis, they usually are referring to hepatitis caused by a few
specific viruses that primarily attack the liver. There are several hepatitis viruses; they have been
named types A, B, C, D, E, F (not confirmed), and G.
The most common hepatitis viruses are types A, B, and C.
What are the symptoms and signs of viral hepatitis?
The period of time between exposure to hepatitis and the onset of the illness is called the
incubation period. The incubation period varies depending on the specific hepatitis virus.
Hepatitis A has an incubation period of about 15-45 days; hepatitis B from 45-160 days, and
hepatitis C from 2 weeks to 6 months.
Many patients infected with hepatitis A, B, and C have few or no symptoms of illness. For those
who do develop symptoms of viral hepatitis, the most common are flu- like symptoms including:
loss of appetite
nausea
vomiting
fever
weakness
tiredness
aching in the abdomen
Less common symptoms include:
dark urine
light-colored stools
fever
jaundice (a yellow appearance to the skin and white portion of the eyes)
Staphylococcus (staph infection)
Staphylococcus is a group of bacteria that can cause a multitude of diseases as a result of
infection of various tissues of the body.
Over 30 different types of Staphylococci can infect humans, but most infections are caused by
Staphylococcus aureus. Staphylococci can be found normally in the nose and on the skin (and
less commonly in other locations) of 20%-30% of healthy adults. In the majority of cases, the
bacteria do not cause disease. However, damage to the skin or other injury may allow the
bacteria to overcome the natural protective mechanisms of the body, leading to infection.
What are the symptoms and signs of a Staph infection?
Staphylococcal disease of the skin usually results in a localized collection of pus, known as an
abscess, boil, or furuncle. The affected area may be red, swollen, and painful. Drainage or pus is
common.

Streptococcus
Group A streptococcal (strep) infections are caused by group A streptococcus, a bacterium
responsible for a variety of health problems. These infections can range from a mild skin
infection or sore throat to severe, life-threatening conditions such as toxic shock syndrome and
necrotizing fascitis, commonly known as flesh eating disease. Most people are familiar with
strep throat, which along with minor skin infection, is the most common form of the disease.
In addition to step throat and superficial skin infections, group A can cause infections in tissues
(group of cells joined together to perform the same function) at specific body sites, including
lungs, bones, spinal cord, and abdomen.

Infection control measures

Flu
Much of the illness and death caused by influenza can be prevented by annual influenza
vaccination. Flu vaccine (influenza vaccine made from inactivated and sometimes attenuated
[non-infective] virus) is specifically recommended for those who are at high risk for developing
serious complications as a result of influenza infection. These high-risk groups for conventional
flu include all people aged 65 years or older and people of any age with chronic diseases of the
heart, lung, or kidneys; diabetes; immunosuppression; or severe forms of anemia.
Rotavirus infection
Because the virus is so prevalent, it is very difficult or even impossible to prevent rotavirus
infection. Even places with excellent standards of hygiene and sanitation can become
contaminated. Vaccination is the most effective preventive measure.
Norovirus infection
One can decrease chances of coming in contact with noroviruses by following these preventive
steps:
Frequently wash your hands, especially after toilet visits and changing diapers and before eating
or preparing food.
Carefully wash fruits and vegetables, and steam oysters before eating them.
Thoroughly clean and disinfect contaminated surfaces immediately after an episode of illness by
using a bleach-based household cleaner.
Immediately remove and wash clothing or linens that may be contaminated with virus after an
episode of illness (use hot water and soap).
Flush or discard any vomitus and/or stool in the toilet and make sure that the surrounding area is
kept clean.
Persons who are infected with norovirus should not prepare food while they have symptoms and
for 3 days after they recover from their illness (see food handler information sheet). Food that
may have been contaminated by an ill person should be disposed of properly.
Diphtheria
The prevention of diphtheria is best achieved through universal immunization with diphtheria
toxoid-containing vaccines. Immunization for infants and children consists of five vaccinations
generally given at ages 2, 4, and 6 months, with the fourth dose being administered between 15-
18 months, and the fifth dose at ages 4-6 years. At age 11-12 years, children should receive a
single vaccination if they have completed the recommended childhood vaccination schedule.
Because immunity wanes over time, subsequent booster immunization is required every 10 years
thereafter to maintain protective antibody levels.
Travelers to areas where diphtheria is endemic should review and update their vaccinations as
necessary.
E.Coli
The following precautions are recommended to prevent infection:.
Drink water from a well only if you know it's free from contamination.
Do not drink untreated water from streams or lakes.
Wash your hands
Wash your hands with soap and water before and after handling food. It cuts the risk of
spreading E. coli
Be sure children wash their hands carefully and often.

Viral hepatitis
Prevention of hepatitis involves measures to avoid exposure to the viruses, using
immunoglobulin in the event of exposure, and vaccines. Administration of immunoglobulin is
called passive protection because antibodies from patients who have had viral hepatitis are given
to the patient. Vaccination is called active protection because killed viruses or non-infective
components of viruses are given to stimulate the body to produce its own antibodies.
Prevention of viral hepatitis, like any other illness, is preferable to reliance upon treatment.
Taking precautions to prevent exposure to another individual's blood (exposure to dirty needles),
semen (unprotected sex), and other bodily waste (stool) will help prevent the spread of these
viruses.
.
Protocol for Preventing Cross Infection
Standard precautions are necessary to assist in the prevention of cross infection of organisms or
bacteria from one person to another
Safe work practice applies to all persons, (regardless of status), in the handling of all bodily
fluids including blood (including dried blood), saliva, non-intact skin and mucous membranes.
It is important to understand that all bodily fluids carry a potential risk of infection.
Clean the work area, using disposable paper towels with a pre mixed solution containing
hypochlorite bleach such as Quaternary Ammonia Disinfectant.
Wash hands thoroughly with running warm water and soap and dry hands with air drier or
disposable paper towels.
Wear disposable plastic gloves at all times – consider all bodily fluids as potentially infectious.
Change gloves between tasks and procedures on same person - particularly after contact with
material that may contain a high concentration of micro-organisms.
Dispose of soiled dressings into a designated bin, which has a disposable liner inside.
Use disposable gloves when handling soiled clothing, double bag clothing and seal the
Dispose of plastic gloves into designated waste bin.
Wash hands thoroughly after removing gloves.
Preventative Measures:
Keep separate bins for general waste and soiled waste.
Dispose of faeces in a sanitary manner, and ensure no faecal-oral transmission.
Clean nasal discharge with paper tissues as they occur and dispose of in appropriate bin.
Clean exposed surfaces with a product such as Quaternary Ammonia Disinfectant.
Wash hands

SAFETY DURING OPERATIONS

Importance of safety

Safety measures during operations

The main hazards associated with hotels and public buildings (the list is not exhaustive) include:
1. Injuries arising from lifting:
In order to prevent such injuries employers are required to take precautionary measures to
minimise hazardous manual handling operations e.g. when moving crates/kegs, CO2 cylinders,
luggage etc. and use lifting, handling and assisting aids wherever practicable. Employers must
also carry out a sufficient assessment of manual handling operations.
See also HSE "Getting to grips with manual handling" (link below).
2. Electrical safety:
All equipment should be installed and maintained by a competent person. It is recommended
(IEE Wiring Regs BS7671) that the fixed system is inspected/tested at least every five years (or
more frequently as recommended by a qualified electrician) and that all electrical appliances are
examined/checked ("PAT" Tested) at a frequency appropriate to the risk. Regular maintenance
should include visual checks for general wear and tear ensuring that plugs, leads and sockets are
in good condition and that there is no exposed wiring. Any corrective actions must be carried out
immediately.
HSE publication "Maintaining portable electrical equipment in hotels and tourist
accommodation" (See link below).

3. Gas safety
All Premises - any place of work that has a gas installation and/or gas appliances installed must
be maintained in such a way so as to prevent risk of injury to any person. The definition of what
is an appropriate maintenance programme will be determined by the installation's age, condition
and usage. If an inspector is of the opinion that the installation is not being properly maintained
and may give rise to danger, enforcement action may be taken.
Hotels/residential care accommodation - In any room where there is a gas appliance
(boiler/heater etc.), and the room is or can be used for sleeping or dining/lounging, then that
appliance MUST be checked for safety at intervals not exceeding 12 months by a CORGI
registered engineer.
A record book must be kept in respect of the appliances including: date of the inspection, any
defect identified and any remedial action taken.

4. Safe use of machinery

To prevent harm to employees ensure that all staff are fully trained to use the equipment
provided e.g. food preparation equipment, compactor, and passenger lift. Ensure that workplace
equipment is maintained, inspected/tested as appropriate and is safe for use and that it is the right
equipment for the job.
See HSE publication "Maintenance priorities in catering" (see link below)

5. Floors, corridors and stairs:

In order to prevent slips and trips these areas should be kept free from obstructions at all times.
Floor coverings and routeways should be maintained and all areas should be well lit. Kitchen
floors need to have enough grip and should be kept dry as far as is practicable. Spillages should
be cleared up immediately. Leaking equipment should be repaired. Staff should wear sensible
footwear. Warning signs should be displayed during cleaning to warn customers/residents/staff
of potentially slippery surfaces. Ensure that any change in floor level is clearly visible.

6. Hazardous substances:
To prevent personal harm from hazardous substances e.g. skin irritation, respiratory disease, a
COSHH risk assessment is required for such substances as cleaning chemicals, beer line cleaner
(corrosive), CO2 cylinders etc. Safety data sheets should be obtained from the suppliers of the
chemicals to assist in carrying out the risk assessment and providing information to staff.
For further advice on what you need to know about the Control of Substances Hazardous to
Health Regulations 2002 (COSHH) see a brief guide to the regulations which is published online
(see link below)

7. Asbestos:
Many premises because of age will contain asbestos containing materials (ACMs) e.g. lagged
pipes in cellars etc. There is now a statutory duty to manage asbestos in non-domestic premises.
(Regulation 4 of the Control of Asbestos Regulation 2006).

8. Smoking (effective 1 July 2007)

All premises, which are wholly or substantially enclosed and used as a place of work by more
than one person are, now smoke free. "No smoking" signs must be displayed at the public
entrance to the premises. Take reasonable steps to ensure that staff, customers etc. are aware that
smoking is not permitted. Ensure that no one smokes in smoke free premises or vehicles.

9. Water temperatures and Legionella control:

One way to minimise the growth of legionella is to store hot water above 60C and distribute it at
above 50C. However, care is needed where water runs hot. The risks of scalding should be
assessed and appropriate measures taken to prevent burns, e.g. warning notices or fitting
thermostatic mixing valves on taps.
Water systems should be designed to avoid conditions that favour the growth of legionella by
ensuring adequate insulation of storage tanks and pipes, using materials that do not encourage
growth of legionella and protecting against contamination by fitting water storage tanks with
lids. Water systems need to be routinely checked and inspected by a competent person and the
risk assessment should be reviewed regularly.
Water stagnation can encourage conditions that favour growth of legionella. It is therefore
advisable to remove dead runs in pipe work from the system, flush out seldom used shower
heads, taps and remaining dead legs periodically (weekly), and to remove any dirt or limescale.
Other water treatment methods include chemical disinfection.

10. Work-related contact dermatitis:

In catering this is caused by contact with water, soaps and cleaning products. Prevention is to
avoid contact with cleaning products and water (use a dishwasher rather than hand washing).
Protect the skin by wearing non-latex gloves and checking hands regularly for the first signs of
dermatitis (itchy, dry or red skin).

11. Cellar Safety:

This area contains some significant hazards and access should be restricted to trained and
competent staff only. Hazards include:
Stairs: These should be of a safe design and in good condition, adequately lit and provided with a
handrail. Sometimes the access to the stairs will be through a floor hatch which will require the
adoption of safe working procedures and physical barriers to prohibit access to others when
raised in an "up" position. Some cellars may have low ceilings, beams and light fittings; these
should be marked, where practical, in a contrasting colour and have warning signage displayed.
In some instances it might be appropriate to provide insulation or padding etc.
Falls from height: If deliveries are made through an external drop down, are there suitable
controls in place to prevent members of the public falling down the open flap? All external
hatchways/cellar flaps should be maintained in good condition and have adequate holding bolts
or other fastenings.
Falling objects: Are there controls in place to prevent personal injury to persons working in the
cellar below during the time of a delivery?
Cuts: Care should be taken when handling glass. In the event of broken glass rigid containers
should be provided for the safe collection and disposal.
Gas cylinders: Leakage from CO2 and Nitrogen cylinders can pose a risk of asphyxiation in
confined spaces through the relative depletion of oxygen content of air and faulty gas cylinders
can explode. It is essential that in cellars there is sufficient ventilation provided by either natural
or mechanical means. In poorly ventilated areas it is strongly recommended that a CO2
monitoring system be installed. It is important that staff are trained how to identify leaking
cylinders and what action to take should one be identified. It is essential that all relevant staff are
fully trained in connection/disconnection procedures of gas cylinders to prevent cross threading
valve damage and/or gas leakage. All empty and full gas cylinders should be suitably secured or
chained in a vertical position to ensure they can't fall from the vertical storage position and
become damaged. Cylinders must be stored away from heat and ignition sources. It is important
that there is an action plan formulated in the case of a gas leak. CO2 Cellar warning cards should
be displayed near cylinders. Gas cylinders should be checked for leakage on delivery and when
connected to the system. All damaged cylinders must be reported to the supplier and not used.
Cylinders frosted from the bottom upwards or a hissing noise may indicate a leakage. Do not
drop, roll or drag gas cylinders and cylinder valves should be closed when not in use.

Role of Health and Safety Act in safety

Duties of employers in regard to safety
Section 2 states that "It shall be the duty of every employer to ensure, so far as is reasonably
practicable, the health, safety and welfare at work of all his employees", and in particular that
such a duty extends to:
Provision and maintenance of plant and systems of work that are, so far as is reasonably
practicable, safe and without risks to health;
Arrangements for ensuring, so far as is reasonably practicable, safety and absence of risks to
health in connection with the use, handling, storage and transport of articles and substances;
Provision of such information, instruction, training and supervision as is necessary to ensure, so
far as is reasonably practicable, the health and safety at work of his employees;
So far as is reasonably practicable as regards any place of work under the employer’s control, the
maintenance of it in a condition that is safe and without risks to health and the provision and
maintenance of means of access to and egress from it that are safe and without such risks;
Provision and maintenance of a working environment for his employees that is, so far as is
reasonably practicable, safe, without risks to health, and adequate as regards facilities and
arrangements for their welfare at work.
Section 3 states the duty of all employers and self employed persons to ensure, as far as is
reasonably practicable the safety of persons other than employees, for example, contractors,
visitors, the general public and clients.
Employers must also prepare and keep under review a safety policy and to bring it to the
attention of his employees (s.2(2)). Trade unions may appoint safety representatives and demand
safety committees. The representatives have a right to be consulted on safety issues (ss.2(4), (6)
and (7)). Since 1996 employers have had a duty to consult all employees on safety matters.[9]
[10] No employer may charge an employee for provision of health and safety arrangements (s.9).
Duties of employees in regard to safety
Under section 7 all employees have a duty while at work to:
Take reasonable care for the health and safety of himself and of other persons who may be
affected by his acts or omissions at work; and
Co-operate with employers or other persons so far as is necessary to enable them to perform their
duties or requirements under the Act.

Safety Housekeeping Tips

Housekeeping is not just cleanliness. It includes keeping work areas neat and orderly;
maintaining halls and floors free of slip and trip hazards; and removing of waste materials (e.g.,
paper, cardboard) and other fire hazards from work areas.

Here are some housekeeping tips that will help you keep your work area safe:
Immediately clean up anything on the floor that creates a slip hazard: water, grease, paper, dust
or other debris. (Get assistance if needed or required.)
 Keep walkways clear of boxes and other obstructions.
 Close cabinets used for storage when not in use.
 Never block fire exits or fire equipment.
 Make sure stacked materials do not impede vision.
 Don’t store items in or on electrical panels or control boxes.
 Pick up and store tools in their proper location immediately after use.
 Keep ventilation systems clear of dust and debris and stored materials.
 Make sure receptacles for waste and debris are conveniently located.
 Remove combustible waste often to minimize the fire hazard.
 Set a good example for other employees by maintaining good housekeeping in
your work area.

Health and safety

Fire and personal injury
These are hazards in any establishments and their prevention is of tremendous importance .While
the management is ultimately responsible for the prevention of accidents, the housekeeper, along
with other department heads, should Endeavour to see that her staff are safety conscious.
Accidents are costly: there may be serious effects on the injured person; time and materials may
be lost; a new employee may need to be trained. Employers have always been responsible if
defective equipment, due to its design or manufacture which causes accidents
Poor housekeeping accounts for many accidents and also many accidents occur in an
establishment ‘s accommodation area(in one survey taken in a group of hotels it was found there
was more days lost due to accidents in the housekeeping department than in any other
department ).Therefore the housekeeper has a great responsibility for making sure that her staff
are aware of the common causes of accidents and of the necessary precautions to be taken to
comply with the 1974 Health and Safety At Work etc Act .
Under this Act the employer must provide:
And maintain equipment and provide safe working practices;
For correct storage, handling and transporting of articles and substances with maximum safety;
Information, instruction, training and supervision to ensure the health and safety of employees;
Safe exit and access to place of work;
A good working environment without risk to health and with adequate facilities (WCs, rest
rooms etc);
A written statement of general policy which should be displayed by employers with more than
five employees and it must be amended as necessary.
Employees should:
Take reasonable care of themselves and other employees and other persons on the premises;
Co-operate with their employer concerning health and safety.
There is a great variety of accidents causing personal injury which may befall guests and staff
and while they are normally caused through someone’s carelessness they are less likely to occur
in a clean ,uncluttered and well maintained department.
The following are some of the more frequent safety hazards and causes of personal injury which
may occur in the housekeeping department.

Causes of Falls
 Frayed edges and worn patches of carpet;
 A missing floor tile or uneven floor;
 A missing piece from the nosing of a hard stair;
 Slippery floors, especially in conjunction with small mats;
 Spillages not immediately dealt with;
 Tripping over fallen articles;
 Trailing flexes from equipment, lamps, television, etc;
 Cleaning equipment left about, buckets etc;
 Faulty step ladders;
 Stools, boxes etc used instead of step-ladders;
 Poor lighting in corridors and on stairs;
 A step in a usual place;
 No hand grips on baths;
 Over-reaching;
 Ill-fitting or inappropriate footwear.

Cuts and abrasions

Because of:
 Careless placing of razor blades;
 Careless disposal of broken glass;
 Careless opening of tins;
 Absence of kneeling mats fro cleaners;

Falling objects;
Objects poorly stacked and shelves over laden.

Accidents
Any accident at work, either to guest or staff, should be reported immediately to management or
the health and safety officer .It is a legal requirement under the health and safety at work etc act
1974 that a record is kept of all accidents; this is particularly important because of the industrial
injuries act whereby staff may be entitled to claim compensation .It is usual for the
establishment‘s own accidents report form to be completed as well as the statutory one.
The accident book and report form should be completed at the time of the accident or as soon
after as possible by the injured person or his supervisor .It should state:
 Personal particulars of person injured e.g. name, address, age, occupation;
 Date and time of accident;
 Place of accident;
 Injury sustained;
 Cause and /or description of the accident;
 What the person was engaged in at the time;
 Treatment given and by whom;
 Name of witnesses.
 It should be signed by the supervisor and if possible by the injured person.
Accidents to guests should also be recorded and all staff should be aware of the fact that they
should never accept liability for an accident .Insurance can be taken out by the establishment for
protection against claims made by guests on staff.
In the case of fatal accidents ,major industries and dangerous occurrences listed in the reporting
of injuries ,diseases and dangerous occurrences regulations ,the environmental health officer
should be notified as soon as possible ,preferably by telephone ,and details entered in the
accident report book .A written report should be sent to the environmental health officer within
seven days .These regulations apply to guests and staff.

Prevention of accidents.
Unless precautions are taken accidents may easily occur and the housekeeper should therefore
see that her staff are made aware of the problems and are instruction in the:
Use of correct working methods
Need for tidiness in their work
Need for storing things in their right places
Dangers of floor surfaces being left wet, overpolished, etc
Necessity of reporting surfaces and articles in need of repair or replacement.
Need for warning signs on wet floors
Need for hazard spotting
A record of training should be kept and be signed by both trainer and trainee and as well as
training staff to be aware of the causes of personal injury. The housekeeper should make the
necessary reports to maintenance and follow up these reports. She should see that provision is
made for:
Hands grips on baths
Non- slip mats in showers
Good lighting on stairs and corridors
Help for maids when jobs are heavy or involve much lifting and stretching
Special marks on clear glass doors to prevent people walking into them

Fire prevention
Safety programs must include fire prevention and deterrence. Fires in lodging properties are very
common but so is the fact that most hotels, motels and resorts are equipped with state of the art
equipment to suppress fires when they occur. The executive Housekeeper can prevent fires by
fireproofing guestroom furnishing. Curtains, carpets, pillows, blankets, and upholstery should be
purchased labeled as fire-retardant or flameproof, cigarette smoking in bed by guests is the
typical cause of fires in guestrooms, not reporting faulty electrical equipment, sockets etc.
Excessive accumulation of lint in dryers, paint’s supplies, and oily rugs can also start fires by
spontaneous combustion. Kitchen oily cloths should be kept in metal containers and washed or
disposed of as soon as possible. Frayed guestroom lamp cables and damaged cords, switches, or
plugs may start smoldering fires, as it’s the case with overcrowded outlets that may overload
fuses or circuits.
Safety programs should include fire protection instruction, including fire drills. Fire safety
programs should train employees in combating small, controllable fires, operating fire
extinguisher, closing doors to contain large fires, keeping fire exits free of any materials,
reporting immediately the smell of burning equipment or the presence of smoke, evacuating the
building in an orderly manner if the fire alarm sounds, notifying guests of fire if asked to do so,
and so on. All housekeeping workers must be told, at orientation, where the nearest fire alarm,
fire extinguisher, and fire exit are located. Employees must be trained not to panic in case of a
fire but remain calm in all cases. Panic emotion can cause people to feel disoriented, preventing
them from acting rationally. In the event of fire, staff should be instructed to operate the nearest
fire alarm, attack fire if no personal risk, close windows, switch off electrical appliances, close
door and report to immediate superior, carry out instructions, e.g. rouse guests, make sure rooms
empty etc; report to assembly point for roll call and not to use lifts
The housekeeper department is also responsible for positing in each guestroom diagrams of
evacuation routes and instructions explaining what to do in case of fire
Accident prevention
Good housekeeping plays a key role in accident prevention and it only requires a little effort to
cleanup after oneself.
Good housekeeping can be achieved by establishing 3 easy steps:
Plan ahead.
Assign responsibilities. A person should be specifically detailed to cleanup. Ideally, each
individual should pick up after themselves and keep their work area neat.
Implement a program. Housekeeping should be part of the daily routine, with cleanup being a
continuous procedure.
Housekeeping Tips
The following practices should help eliminate accidental injuries and prevent fires;
Keep aisles and stairwells clearly marked and free of clutter.
Clean up spills and leaks promptly.
Properly dispose of oily and greasy rags.
Keep all filing cabinets and drawers closed when not used.
Keep tools and equipment clean and properly store tools.
Neatly stack storage racks and bins.
Smoke in designated areas only.
Make sure work areas are well lighted.
Clean up after yourself.
Keep fire exits, extinguishers, and sprinklers marked and free of obstructions.
Rope off maintenance areas to minimize personnel traffic.
Close all drawers, cabinets, etc. when not in use.
Bomb threats
Most bomb threats are made over the phone. The overwhelming majority are hoaxes, often the
work of malicious pranksters. Any bomb threat is a crime and, no matter how ridiculous or
unconvincing, should be reported to the police.
Telephoned bomb threats are frequently inaccurate with regard to where and when a bomb might
explode, and staff receiving a bomb threat may not always be those trained and prepared for it.
But although they may be unable to assess a threat's accuracy or origin, their impressions of the
caller could be important.
Receiving such a threat may be the closest that many people ever come to acts of terrorism, so be
prepared for affected staff to be temporarily in a state of shock. Affected individuals may need
counselling or other support.
Ensure that all staff who could conceivably receive a bomb threat are trained in handling
procedures - or at least have ready access to instructions. This applies particularly to public
transport organisations, courts, banks, hotels, hospitals, news agencies, voluntary organisations
and those offering any sort of emergency service. Switchboard operators should be familiar with
procedures and rehearse them regularly.
stay calm and listen
obtain as much information as possible - try to get the caller to be precise about the location and
timing of the alleged bomb and try to establish whom they represent. If possible, keep the caller
talking
ensure that any recording facility is switched on
when the caller rings off, dial 911(if that facility operates and you have no automatic number
display) to see if you can get their number
immediately tell the designated Security Co-ordinator. It is their responsibility to decide on the
best course of action and who should notify the police. If you cannot get hold of anyone, and
even if you think the call is a hoax, inform the police directly. Give them your impressions of the
caller as well as an exact account of what was said
If you have not been able to record the call, make notes for the security staff or police. Do not
leave your post - unless ordered to evacuate - until the police or security arrive.

Types of fires

Combustion
Combustion is a chemical reaction in which a fuel is rapidly oxidized. Three things are required
to sustain a fire:
Oxygen (more properly, an oxidizing agent)
Fuel (a reducing agent)
Heat

Therefore, to kill a fire, you must deny the fire one or more of these three
things. You may:
Exclude oxygen from the fire.
Remove the fuel on which the fire is feeding.
Lower the temperature.

Types of Fires
There are four classes of fires, categorized according to the kind of material that is burning. For
the first three classes of fires, there are two sets of color-coded icons in common use. One or
both kinds of icons appear on most fire extinguishers to indicate the kinds of fire against which
the unit is intended to be used. There is only one icon used to indicate the fourth (class D) kind
of fire. Class D fires involve uncommon materials and occur in fairly specialized situations. Note
that any given fire can fall into more than one class; a fire that involves both burning paper and
kitchen grease would be a Class AB fire.
Class A fires are those fueled by materials that, when they burn, leave
a residue in the form of ash, such as paper, wood, cloth, rubber, and
certain plastics.

Class B fires involve flammable liquids and gasses, such as gasoline,

paint thinner, kitchen grease, propane, and acetylene.

Fires that involve energized electrical wiring or equipment (motors,

computers, panel boxes) are Class C fires. Note that if the electricity
to the equipment is cut, a Class C fire becomes one of the other three
types of fires.

Class D fires involve exotic metals, such as magnesium, sodium,

titanium, and certain organometallic compounds such as alkyllithium
and Grignard reagents.

Fire Safety

Checklist
In All Areas of Your Building
Cover all unused electrical outlets.
Arrange electrical cords so they neither dangle loosely nor entangle with one another.
Matches, lighters, and all flammable materials should be kept out of the reach of children.
Radiator covers should be made of a non-heat absorbent material.
Wood stoves and fireplaces should have screens and a gate, so that children cannot wander too
close.
Fireplaces and, especially, chimneys should be cleaned and inspected by a reputable professional
every year.
There should be a smoke detector installed on every level of your building and in the hallways
leading to the bedrooms. It is an extra precaution to have them installed in each bedroom.
Set the thermostats on water heaters between 135 and 130 degrees Fahrenheit.
Formulate an escape plan for every room in your building, with an alternate plan in case the first
option is blocked by fire. Practice these escapes until every member of your family can
perform them automatically.
Set up a safe place to meet outside.
Keep flammable materials away from heat sources.
Try to use non-flammable or fire-resistant materials for curtains and upholstery.
Use space heaters only on noncombustible surfaces and at least three feet from furniture and
walls.
Store all flammable and combustible products in cool, well ventilated places, locked securely
and/or out of the reach of children.
Bathrooms
Tap water should never be hot enough to scald wrist. Run cold water in tub first, and then use
hot water to warm to desired temperature.
Check in on children often. Never leave a child unsupervised for an extended period of time.
Make sure all medications and chemicals are out of child's reach and/or in child-proof locked
cabinets.

Bedrooms
In case of fire, it's a good practice to keep water in plastic bottles in bedroom closets to dampen
cloths for face protection during escape.
If you have smoke detectors in the hallways, you can sleep with the bedroom doors open.
Keep drapes away from heat sources, including lamps.
Keep electrical cords from dangling.
Try to avoid the use of extension cords. If you must use them, make sure they hug the wall.
Under no circumstances should any electric wires cross over the middle of the room.

Know your Building

Each occupant should be familiar with the location of all exit stairways on his/her floor. In
addition, occupants should discuss in advance what they will do if the closest exit cannot be used
during a fire emergency.
Following the above suggested steps and doing pre-fire planning, you will greatly reduce your
chance of being killed or injured in a fire in your building. Since no two fires are alike, plan
carefully and learn your building layout well so that you can change your exit plan as conditions
warrant.

Fire Escape Plan

Each occupant of the building must know what to do in the event of a fire. Unless a small fire
can be easily controlled, it is recommended that fighting the fire be left to professional
firefighters and that occupants escape safely from the building.
An escape plan must be created and practiced so that each person knows exactly what to do. It
also is important to practice Exit Drills in the establishments.
Most residential fires occur between 8 p.m. and 8 a.m. Deaths from residential fires occur in
greater numbers between midnight and 4 a.m. when most people are asleep.
Regardless of the cause of the fire, a building may be filled with smoke. This is a very dangerous
situation as occupants may be unable to see very well. The smoke and toxic gases may cause
dizziness and disorientation. In the confusion, one can easily become lost or trapped in the
building. Occupants must understand that their safety depends upon quickly leaving the building.
It has been proven that exit drills reduce chances of panic and injury in fires and that trained and
informed people have a much better chance to survive fires in a building.

Realize the Danger of Smoke

Each occupant of the building should understand the importance of crawling low under smoke.
Smoke and heat rise so the best place to find fresher, cooler air is near the floor. When a person
is caught in a building filled with smoke, they should drop on hands and knees and crawl to the
nearest exit. Test all closed doors before opening them. Feel the back of the door. If it is hot,
don't open it. Turn and go to the second route of exit. If the door is not hot, open slowly but be
prepared to slam it closed again if there are flames.

Practice what to do if you become trapped. Since doors hold back smoke and firefighters are
adept at rescue, the chances of survival are excellent. Close doors between you and the smoke.
Stuff the cracks and cover vents to keep smoke out. If there's a phone, call in your exact location
to the fire department even if they are on the scene. Wait at the window and signal with a sheet
or flashlight or something visible.

Establish a Safe Meeting Place

A special meeting place should be established a safe distance from the building. Whatever it is, it
must be something that is stationary and won't be moved (such as a car). This is where everyone
meets in the event of a fire. It also prevents occupants from wandering around the neighborhood
looking for one another, or worse, being tempted to re-enter the burning building for one thought
to be trapped inside.
Once outside at the special meeting place, a person can be sent to call 9-1-1. If anyone is
missing, give that information to the fire department immediately and tell them where the
probable location of the missing person could be. Under no circumstances should anyone re-
enter the burning building.

Provide for Those Requiring Additional Help

Special provisions may be required for infants, young children, disabled or the elderly who may
need additional help when escaping. These provisions should be included in the building fire
escape plan and discussed with occupants
When afraid, children commonly seek sheltered places such as a closet or under the bed.
Encourage them to exit outside. Do not allow them to hide. Make sure children can operate the
windows, descend a ladder, or lower themselves to the ground through a window. (Slide out on
the stomach, feet first. Hang on with both hands. Bend the knees when landing.) Lower children
to the ground before you exit from the window. They may panic and not follow if an adult goes
first.
Have children practice saying the fire department number, the family name, and street address
into the phone.

Practice Your Fire Escape Plan

One very good step in the planning of a building fire escape plan is to make a floor diagram of
the building. Mark the regular and emergency escape routes, as well as windows, doors, stairs,
halls.
A good way to practice the effectiveness of a building fire escape plan is to position each
occupant in his or her bed, turn all the lights off, and activate the smoke detector by depressing
the test switch. Each occupant should help "awaken" the others by yelling the alert. Occupants
should exit their rooms according to the plan, crawl low under smoke, practice feeling doors for
heat, and meet in the designated location outside the building.
.
Exit Safely From a Structure
Jumping from upper floors of a building should be avoided. However, it is possible to hang from
a second story window and drop feet first to the ground without significant injury. A sprained
ankle or broken leg is better than dying.
When exiting such a structure, do not use the elevator. Elevators are notorious for stopping at the
fire floor and killing the people inside. A power failure may cause them to stop in between
floors. Use the fire escape or an enclosed fire resistive stairwell to exit.
As a family, explore the building so that every exit, is familiar, including those from storage,
laundry and recreation rooms. If the hallways become smoke-filled as the result of a fire,
memory can help in finding the exits.
Look for these important features in the building - enclosed exit stairways, clearly-marked exits,
clean hallways and lobbies, automatic sprinklers, fire alarm systems and smoke detectors.
Remember, Plan Ahead!
Remember, the first step toward escaping a fire is to plan ahead. Practice a building fire escape
plan throughout the year and be sure that if anything should change around the building, it is
included in the building fire escape plan.

Fire fighting procedures

FIRE EXTINGUISHERS
A fire extinguisher is a must for every kitchen the place where so many building fires start.
There are different extinguishers for different types of fires. You will notice labels on the units
marked A, B and C. These letters refer to which types of fire the extinguisher is meant to fight:

Class A extinguishers are made for fires involving paper, wood, textiles and plastics. The
material inside smothers the fire, putting it out by cutting off the oxygen that feeds it.
Class B extinguishers are made for fires involving flammable liquids, such as grease, oil,
gasoline and paint. Two kinds of material are used: one to smother the fire and one to create a
chemical reaction that puts it out.
Class C extinguishers use non-conductive materials to fight fires in live electrical equipment.
Each extinguisher also has a rating number indicating what size fire it can handle. Some units are
rated for all three types of fires, but they have a larger size rating for one type than for another.
Choose a fire extinguisher that is right for the types of fire that might break out in a particular
area.
A first-aid kit prepares you to treat minor injuries. Keep it stocked with clean supplies and fresh
medicines, as well as phone numbers for the local emergency services, poison control and your
doctors' offices.
Do not store cooking utensils and dish towels too close to the range. They could melt or catch
fire.
Make sure that plugs near the sink are GFCI outlets, which are designed to monitor the current
going to and coming from the receptacle.
If electricity started flowing through an improper channel to the ground for example, your body
there would be a drop in the current on the proper path. Within a fraction of a second of
detecting that current imbalance, a properly installed GFCI would shut that circuit down. You
might get shocked, but you should be safe from electrocution.
Most local codes now require these outlets in new construction, but older buildings might not
have them in place. Test the GFCI outlets monthly (using the test button) so you can be sure they
will work when they are needed.
Store knives safely:
If they are in a drawer, store them with covers to keep someone from being cut while reaching in
the drawer.
If they are on a magnetic strip, make sure that the magnetic force is strong enough to hold them
and that the strip is fastened tightly to the wall.

Power Surge Protectors

Surge control is important because even small surges or spikes can eventually destroy or affect
the performance of expensive electronic equipment such as computers, phones, faxes, TVs,
VCRs, stereos and microwaves. Damage can occur either instantaneously or over time as smaller
surges cause the gradual deterioration of internal circuitry. The common use of microprocessors
(chips) has increased the need for surge protection because these chips are generally very
sensitive to voltage fluctuations

Fire Drills
Fires can happen anywhere. A fire in a large building creates an enormous risk to everyone.
Other reasons for evacuating buildings include natural gas leaks, earthquakes, hazardous material
spills and storms. Knowing what to do is the key to surviving a fire emergency. Conducting
regular fire drills will give you the knowledge and confidence to escape a fire safely. There are
two steps for a good evacuation program - planning and practice.

Planning
Planning gives you the information you need ahead of time to evacuate safely. In the workplace,
employees and supervisors should plan together for exiting their worksite. At school, involve all
school staff including teachers, administrative and office workers, and the maintenance and food
service staff.
Working together, design an evacuation plan to meet the specific needs of your building and
your occupants. Make the plan clear and concise. Review the plan and walk through the exit
procedure to make sure that everyone knows what to do.
Each building, whether it be a school, workplace or multi-family living unit, should have a
posted exit diagram (plan) and everyone should be familiar with it.
Be sure that smoke detectors are installed and maintained. Know the sound of the fire alarm.
Everyone should recognize and respond to the sound of the smoke detector or other fire alarm
immediately. Immediate response is vital for a quick, orderly evacuation.
Everyone should exit in an orderly manner to prevent confusion and minimize panic or injury.
No one should push their way out an exit. Single file lines are best in controlling traffic to the
exits.
Consider special needs people. When developing your escape plan, remember that younger,
older, or disabled people may need special assistance. Anyone with special needs should be
located as close to an exit as possible. Train others to give special assistance with evacuation.
Be sure to know two ways out. There should be two ways out of every area of the building,
school, or workplace. If the primary exit is blocked by smoke or fire, use your second exit. Point
out all emergency exits as you walk through the emergency procedure.
Always use the stairways to exit multi-story buildings. Do not use an elevator. An elevator may
stop between floors, or go to the fire floor and stop with the doors open.
If a room or corridor is filled with smoke, crawl low on your hands and knees to exit. The
cleaner air is closer to the ground.
Plan your meeting place. A designated meeting place outside the building is a vital part of an
evacuation plan. Count heads. Be aware of who is there (hopefully everybody will be accounted
for) and who is not there. When the fire department arrives, you can report if there is anyone
missing.
Know what to do if you can't escape. You'll need to plan your actions in case immediate escape
is impossible. If possible, for example, stay in a room with an outside window and always close
doors between you and the fire. Think about what you could use - sheets, towels, curtains, or
even large pieces of clothing - to stuff around cracks near the door and wave as a signal to
rescuers. Know how to open the window to ventilate smoke, but be prepared to close the window
immediately if an open window makes the room smokier. If there is a phone, call the fire
department with your location, even if firefighters are already on the scene. Remember, stay low
in smoke until you're rescued.

Practice
After planning, practice to make sure that everyone knows what to do. Have fire drills. Practice
your fire escape periodically throughout the year. Remember, the element of surprise simulates a
real fire and adds essential realism to your fire drill program.
Appoint someone to monitor the drill. This person will sound the alarm and make the drill
realistic by requiring participants to use their second way out or to crawl low. This could be done
by having someone hold up a sign reading "smoke" or "exit blocked by fire." The monitor also
will measure how long complete evacuation takes.
Coordinate arrangements for fire drills in apartments or other multi-family buildings, in schools
or in workplaces with the local fire department.
After the evacuation, take a head count at the designated meeting place(s) to account for
everyone's participation and safe evacuation.
When everyone is back inside the building after the drill, gather everyone together to discuss any
questions or problems that occurred during the drill. Redesign the drill procedures as needed.
Make the next fire drill even more effective.
Remember, once you are outside, stay outside. Don't go back in until the proper authorities say it
is okay.
 CLEANING EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS

Identification and classification of cleaning equipment and materials

CLEANING EQUIPMENT
Efficient cleaning and maintenance are dependent upon high-quality cleaning equipment,
correctly using. Though only 5-10% of the overall cost incurred on cleaning is accounted for by
cleaning equipment and agents, selecting the ideal equipment plays a major role in the cleaning
process. There will often be several ways of carrying out any particular cleaning task and
different types of equipment that can be employed for it. It is the executive housekeeper’s
responsibility to select the most appropriate piece of equipment according to the hotel’s
requirement. Most types of cleaning equipment fall under the category of recycled items, but a
few large pieces of items may be considered as fixed assets. The correct choice of quality
cleaning equipment could save costs due to breakdowns, reduce fatigue and also ensure overall
efficiency in operations.
Equipment used in the cleaning of surface, furniture and fittings in a hotel building include both
manual and mechanical equipment .
Manual Equipment

Manual equipment can include all types of equipment that clean or aid in the cleaning process by
directly using manoeuvre, operation and energy of employees.

Brushes
These may be designed to remove dry or wet and/or ingrained dust and dirt from hard or soft
surfaces. Basic parts of a brush: The basic parts of a brush are as follows -
 Bristles: These may be of animal, vegetable or manmade origin. Horsehair, nylon
and polypropylene are commonly used to make bristles for cleaning brushes. In
general, the finer, softer bristles are best for smooth and hard surfaces. The harder
the bristles, the softer the surface on which the brush should be used, exception
being toilet brushes and brushes found on all-purpose flour machines. Bristles, if
not maintained properly, have a tendency to bend, splay or fall out of the stock.
Bristles should be closely set in tufts and the stock well covered with tufts.
 Head stock: This is the part of the brush into which the bristles are inserted. The
stock may be of wood, metal, or plastic. A good brush is one that has a sturdy
stock.
 Handle: Brush handles may be detachable or non-detachable. Detachable handles
must be fixed firmly in place on the stock when the brush is in use.
Types of brushes:

Three main types of brushes are used for cleaning surfaces.

 Hard brushes: Hard brushes have bristles that are fairly stiff and well spaced out.
They are most suitable for the removal of heavy soil and litter from carpets and
for cleaning rough surfaces.
 Soft brushes: Soft brushes have bristles that are fairly flexible and set close
together. These help to remove loose soil and litter on hard, smooth surfaces.
Such brushes may be designed to dust carpets and furniture, too, especially those
made of cane, wicker and bamboo.
 Scrubbing brushes: Scrubbing brushes have short, coarse bristles designed for use
on surfaces that have become stained and heavily ingrained with dirt. These
brushes should only be used to remove stubborn, heavy soiling from small areas
that are difficult for a scrubbing machine to access. Long handled scrubbing
brushes, called deck scrubbers or T-scrubbers, are useful for cleaning larger areas
as well as corners.

Brushes are also classified on basis of their function:

 Toilet brushes: These are WC brushes, radiator brushes and Johnny mops.
 Bottle brushes: These are used for cleaning overflow vents in wash basins and
tubs.
 Cloth scrubbers: These are used for scrubbing clothes.
 Deck scrubbers: These are used for cleaning large areas.
 Carpet brushes: These are used for brushing carpets.
 Upholstery brushes: These are used to loosen out dust embedded between the
fabric fibres in upholstered chairs and sofas
 Feather brushes: These are brushes with feathers, for light dusting.
 Hearth brush: These are used for cleaning heavy soiling and removing ash out of
fireplaces.
 Flue brush: These are used for cleaning chimneys.

Care and cleaning of brushes:

Brushes should be gently tapped on a hard surface to loosen dust and debris after the cleaning
process. Frequent wash with water is avoidable since the brushes may lose some of their stiffness
in this way. If they must be washed frequently, the final rinse should be in cold saline water to
help the bristles regain their stiffness. Brushes should be cleaned of all fluff and threads before
washing. They may then be rinsed in warm, mild soapy water. A disinfectant should be added to
the water used for rinsing toilet brushes. If brushes with natural bristles (vegetable or animal
origin) have been used for wax polishing, add washing soda (1 tbsp to 2 litres of water) to
remove grease thoroughly. Brushes should be washed by beating the head up and down, with the
bristles facing downwards, so that the water splashes up between the tufts. They should be rinsed
well in the same way in cold water. After shaking off excess water, the brushes should be left to
dry in such a way that the remaining water may drip off the side of the brush or the top of the
head stock. Never leave brushes resting on their bristles, else they will splay out; if left resting on
their stock, water will rot the stock in time. The best way would be to hang the brushes bristles
downward. When possible, dry brushes in the sun or open air. To extend the life of the brush,
apply lacquer to the stock and handle with an oil-can and allow to harden.

Brooms
Sweeping brooms consist of long bristles gathered together and inserted into a handle. The
bristles of a broom may be made of grass, corn or coconut fibres. Depending on the type, brooms
may be used for removing dust or dirt in large areas.

Types of brooms
As with brushes, brooms may be classified into 3 main categories:
· Soft-bristled brooms: Soft bristled brooms such as corn-fibre brooms, grass brooms and whisk
brooms are used on smooth floors. A good soft broom has comparatively fewer split ends and
any splits that do form are short.
· Hard/Coarse-bristled brooms: Brooms such as yard brooms and coconut fibre brooms are used
on course surfaces, especially outdoors.
· Wall brooms: These are also called ceiling brooms or Turk’s heads. They have a soft head and
long handle, usually made of cane. These brooms are used to remove cobwebs as well as dust
from cornices, ceilings and high ledges.
Electric brooms, arguably a fourth type, have been discussed under
mechanical equipment. All kinds of brooms raise and dissipate dust, so that, with the advent of
the more hygienic process of vacuum cleaning, brooms are used less often for cleaning purposes
in hotels.

Care and cleaning of brooms:

Brooms should be shaken free of dust and fluff. Never store them standing on their bristles, or
the bristles will bend out of shape, resulting in inefficient cleaning. Store brooms either lying
horizontally or hanging bristles downward. Never use soft brooms on wet surfaces. Stiff brooms
such as coconut-fibre brooms can be used on wet surfaces but must be cleaned afterward
thoroughly in saline water and dried in the sun before cleaning.

Box Sweepers
These are also called carpet sweepers and are used for sweeping up dust and litter from soft floor
coverings as well as rugs and carpets. They are ideal for the removal of spills and for light
cleaning of small carpeted areas. A box sweeper consists of a friction brush that revolves when
the equipment is pushed manually over the carpet bottom to facilitate emptying after use. Choose
sweepers with a wide base that is low enough to be pushed under furniture and that will clean
close to a wall. In sweepers meant to clean hard floors as well as soft floor coverings, the brush
can be lowered to the floor to sweep.

Care and cleaning of box sweepers:

The friction brush should be kept clean; else the efficiency of the equipment will be seriously
impaired. After the cleaning process, the dustpans should be emptied of all the collected dust.

Dry Mops
Also called dust control mops, these are designed to remove soil and debris from floors, walls
and ceilings without raising and dissipating dust. These mops generally consist of a handle to
which a metal frame is attached. The mop head is either inserted into the frame or stretched over
it, according to the type.

Types of dry mops: There are 4 principle types of dry mops:

· Mops with impregnated fringes: These mops consist of dense cotton fringes, approximately 15
cm in length, inserted into a metal frame of 15-120 cm length. These mops are usually pre-
impregnated or will require impregnation by soaking in or spraying with mineral oil or a
synthetic impregnating fluid. The dust is held onto the mops by the oil.
· Impregnated mop sweepers: These mops consist of a double-hinged frame and are thus called
‘V-sweepers’ of ‘scissor-action sweepers’. The mops can be pre-impregnated or may require
impregnation before each use. Following impregnation, sufficient time must be allowed for the
mineral oil to cure the fibres; else the mop will leave a film of oil on the cleaned surface due to
improper curing. To be effective, an impregnated mop must also be manoeuvred correctly. It
should be worked in long, even strokes in a continual movement, keeping the mop head in
contact with the surface all the time. This way, maximum dust collection and minimum dust
dissipation is ensured.
· Static mops: These mops consist of acrylic, nylon or polyester strands fixed to a backing
stretched over a metal frame. When in use, the fringes splay out to form a large surface area,
holding dust by means of a static charge that builds up on the fringe. Static mops are more easily
maintained than impregnated mops.
· Disposable mops: These mops consist of a handle with a soft pad at the end, onto which a
cheap cotton or synthetic material is affixed. The material has properties enabling it to attract and
hold dust. The fabric is held in place by clips or a special tape and is usually purchased in large
rolls, from which the desired amount can be cut. The fabric is disposed off after each use and
replaced immediately. Although very expensive due to constant replacement of the head, they
are extremely hygienic and are particularly suitable when infection control is required.

Care and cleaning of dry mops:

Shake mops well after use outdoors. The mop head should be easily detachable so they can be
frequently washed in hot water with detergent. The use of soap-free detergent will prevent the
formation of scum that clogs the fibres of the head. The mop must be worked up and down in at
least 2 changes of clean, hot water. The clean mop should then be tightly squeezed out, shaken
well to get rid of excess moisture and left to dry in open air. Once dry, the mops may need to be
re-impregnated.

Wet/damp mops:
These mops are used in conjunction with buckets for the removal of dirt adhering to a surface.
The mop heads can be made of cotton, sponge or any other fibre capable of absorbing moisture
well.

Types of damp mops: There are 4 types of damp mops available:

· Do-all mops: These mops consist of strands of twisted cotton fixed to a circular metal plate,
which in turn is fixed to a stock.
· Kentucky mops: These mops consist of cotton strands fixed to a length of cotton fabric which is
in turn inserted into a flat metal stock. They are available in weights ranging from 330g to 670g.
The strands may be stitched together or unstitched. The former are less likely to tangle, can be
laundered more easily and are likely to last longer than unstitched mops.
· Foss mops: These consist of a dense cotton fringe inserted into a heavy metal stock. They are
available in a wide range of weights.
· Sponge mops: These consist of cellulose sponge fixed to a replaceable, lever-controlled head,
hinged for wringing out and attached to a long handle. Using a sponge mop is one of the easiest
ways to wash a hard floor. Short handled sponge mops are also available for cleaning windows.
· Squeegee: A squeegee consists of a long metallic handle and a wooden or rubber blade to
remove excess water from a surface being cleaned It is effective when followed by mopping with
a damp mop. A smaller version called the window squeegee is used for wiping away water from
windows after washing.

Care and cleaning of damp mops:

Take mops outdoors after use and shake well to remove excess moisture. Then these mops may
be washed in the same way as dry mops. Detachable heads are easier to clean and maintain.
However, drying is the most important part of mop care as bacteria require moisture to multiply.
A disinfectant to discourage their growth is effective only for a short period of time, so leaving
them damp means letting germs breed. Damp mops should be renewed as soon as there are signs
of wear. They should be stored in such a way that air is allowed to circulate around the mop
head. Never use disinfectant or bleach with a cellulose sponge head. Wash and rinse sponge
heads after use, squeeze out excess water and dry well. Store the sponge head by hanging.

Cloths
Various cloths are used extensively in wet and dry cleaning by housekeeping staff. For efficient
and correct usage, cloths may be colour-coded and the staff well-trained.

Types of cloths: A variety of cloths are available for specific purposes:

· Dusters and cloth mittens: These are meant for dusting and buffing. Soft, absorbent plain or
checked cotton material or yellow flannelette of up to 15 sq. Cm is ideal for dusters. When used
for damp dusting, they must be sprayed with a fine mist of water or dusting solution. Cloths may
be impregnated with a mineral oil instead. Dusters must be folded several times into a hand-sized
pad before use so as to provide a number of clean surfaces and avoid spreading dirt again to a
clean surface instead.
· Swabs and wipes: These are all-purpose cloths made of soft, absorbent material. They are used
for wet cleaning and damp dusting of all surfaces above floor level. They are also used for
cleaning sanitary fittings such as bathtubs and wash basins. Wipes include loosely woven or
knitted cotton cloths and non-woven cloths. Synthetic sponges may also be grouped under this
category. They are available in various sizes and shapes. Sponges are better than cloths for
washing walls, woodwork, glass and upholstery.
· Floor cloths: Floor cloths are bigger, thicker and made of coarser cotton material than all-
purpose swabs. They are used to wipe WC pedestals and remove spills from floors.
· Scrim: This is a loosely woven linen material resembling fine sackcloth. Scrim, because of its
high absorbency and lint-free nature, is often used instead of chamois leather for cleaning
windows and mirrors.
· Glass cloths: Glass cloths are made up of linen tow yarns and do not leave behind lint. They
can therefore be used for wiping mirrors and drinking glasses. These must not be confused with
fabrics made from glass fibres (glasscloth).
· Rags and polishing cloths: Rags are disposable cloths usually obtained from the sewing room
or bought by the sack from tailors. They are used for applying polish or strong cleaning agents
are disposed off when dirty. Polishing cloths need to have a fleecy napped surface and pieces of
flannel are ideal.
· Wet cloths: Wet cloths need to be very absorbent and of a manageable size, so that they can be
wrung out by hand easily during cleaning. They are used for mopping large floor areas.
· Chamois leather: Real chamois leather is the skin of the chamois goat antelope, but now
various cheaper imitations are available. These simulated chamois leathers are usually skivers,
that is, split sheepskin. Chamois leather can be used wet for cleaning windows and mirrors; when
dry; it is used as a polishing cloth for silver and other metals. It is also ideal for wiping squeegee
blades.
· Dust sheets: Dust sheets are made of any thin cotton material, being about the size of a single
sheet. Discarded bed sheets or curtains from the linen room are ideal for use as dust sheets. They
are used to cover floors, furniture or other articles during spring cleaning or decorating.
· Druggets: These are made up of coarse linen, fine canvas or clear plastic. They may be the size
of a carpet square or runner. They are placed on the floor in doorways to prevent excessive dirt
being tracked in or out during bad weather and during redecorating projects. They are sometimes
placed in the passage between the kitchen and dining area to catch spills and debris.
· Hearth and bucket cloths: These are made up of thick fabrics and used to protect the carpet and
flooring when a fireplace is being cleaned or placed under buckets to prevent marks on the
surface they are kept on. They also catch splashes of water.
cloths is important for efficient cleaning and longer life. Care and cleaning recommendations for
various types of cloths are given in Table 7.1.
Table 7.1: Cloth care & cleaning recommendations
CLOTH CARE AND CLEANING
Dusters and cloth mittens Wash, rinse and dry thoroughly after use. If
cloth mittens are impregnated with mineral
oil after washing, keep them covered or they
will attract dust.
Swabs and wipes Wash in hot detergent water, rinse and dry
thoroughly after use. Those used on WCs
should be disinfected after washing.
Floor cloths Wash in hot detergent water, rinse, disinfect
(as floors may harbour many germs) and dry
thoroughly.
Scrim Wash, rinse and dry after use.
Glass cloths Wash, rinse and dry after use.
Rags and polishing cloths Rags should be disposed off after use.
Polishes with a strong odour may contain
flammable chemicals and storing rags and
polishing cloths used in their application may
prove a fire hazard.
Wet cloths Wash in hot detergent water, rinse and dry
 thoroughly. Disinfect periodically to prevent
them from becoming unhygienic.
Chamois leather If not maintained properly, leather gets
cracked and is damaged easily. Remove
excess dirt from it with newspaper. Wash
only when necessary, in plain cold water.
Rinse and either store damp or dry flat. When
dry, rub to soften the leather again.
Dust sheets Shake well outdoors after use. Wash, rinse
and dry when necessary. Fold neatly and
store when not in use.
Druggets Shake well by tapping on the ground
outdoors, if made of plastic. Use a hard brush
to clean away stubborn dirt from cloth. Wash
rinse and dry canvas and linen ones
frequently. Plastic ones can be damp wiped
instead.
Hearth and bucket cloths Shake well after use. Wash, rinse and dry
thoroughly after use. Use a hard brush to
clean away stubborn soiling.

Polish applicators
These are usually oblong in shape for efficiency of application. The polishing head should slide
out from the metal or plastic casing to enable easy replacement.

Types of polish applicators: There are 3 kinds of polish applicators:

a) Natural lambswool, with a built in polish reservoir or tray.
b) Synthetic wool, with a built in polish reservoir or tray.
c) Solid-wax pressurized applicators.

Care and cleaning of polish applicators:

Polish applicators should not be washed with water. Wiping away excess polish with newspaper
or rags before it dries should suffice. It is important to label the applicators with the type of
polish for which they are to be used so that each applicator is used with just one kind of polish,
to avoid mixing different products.

Containers
Work becomes much easier and efficient if the staff is given appropriate containers in which to
carry, transport, collect and store supplies and other items.

Types of containers: The various types of containers used are:

· Buckets: These may be made of plastic or galvanised iron. Plastic buckets are more popular
these days as they are lighter in weight, quieter to use and easier to clean. Buckets to be used
with mops may have one or two sections and may have a wringer device that can be detached for
easy cleaning. Twin buckets on a low trolley enabled the brush to be rinsed more effectively
each time. Larger buckets should have castor wheels which must be kept free of hair, fluff and
dust. Buckets should be thoroughly washed, inside and out, every time they are used and then
allowed to dry before being stored.
· Basins and bowls: These are used to carry small amounts of water, cleaning solutions and
powders for cleaning small areas.
· Dustpans: These are used in conjunction with a broom or brush for gathering dust. They may
be made of plastic or metal, plastic ones being the usual choice these days. Dustpans with long
handles that eliminate stooping are ideal. In order that the dustpans are effective, the edge in
contact with the floor must be thin, sharp and flat. They should always be emptied after use and
occasionally washed. They should never be stored resting on their flat edge, as it will wear out
and warp so that the pan becomes inefficient. Store dustpans suspended from a hook or lying
horizontally, sideways.
· Dustbins : The housekeeping department is concerned with dustbins in 5 areas:
a) In guestrooms: These bins may be made of plastic or wood. Some properties also use jute or
wicker bins. Individual dustbins in guestrooms may be lined with a disposable inner lining made
of recycled paper or plastic. These bins must be emptied and wiped daily. They should be
washed once a week.
b) In the service rooms: These are used to collect waste from guestrooms, brought in by the room
attendants’ carts. The carts contain a sack called the trash bag for guestroom trash. There should
be 2 types of bins in the service room, a metal bin for disposing of ash from guestroom ashtrays
and a plastic or thick paper bin for other types of trash. The latter can be incinerated directly.
c) In public areas such as guest corridors and lobbies: These bins may have a creative design
since they are constantly on view. They should be emptied daily.
d) In waste-collection areas: These are usually located outside the main building and are hidden
from view. These bins should be kept covered and emptied t least every alternate day
·
Sani-bins: These are metal or plastic bins with lids. They are found in toilets for the collection of
soiled sanitary towels. They should be lined with plastic or paper bags for easy cleaning. The
bins must be emptied and wiped daily for reasons of hygiene. Disposable paper bags (sani-bags)
should be provided in the guests’ toilets for wrapping sanitary towels, before disposing in the
sani-bin. Some metal sani-bins may be provided with incinerators, but these are not available in
India yet.
· Spray bottles: These are lightweight containers that deliver a fine mist or cleaning solution
through a fine nozzle, particularly used for spray cleaning. It is essential that the nozzle is
properly adjusted and free from any blockage. The nozzle must be kept clean, by spraying clean,
pure water through it after every use.
· Polish applicator trays: These are used in conjunction with a polish applicator mop for
polishing floors with a liquid polish. They should be labelled with the kind of polish that they
hold. Cleaning them after use is difficult. Pour any excess polish back into the polish container.
Soak the tray in a small amount of solvent used to remove that particular type of polish. Wipe
with rags and store.
· Hand caddies: Also called ‘cleaners’ boxes’, these were originally made of wood or metal but
are nowadays usually made of plastic. They consist of a box with a handle and fitted tray. They
are used by room attendants for carrying cleaning supplies from room to room for guestroom
cleaning. After each shift, they must be cleaned and topped up with replacement supplies for use
in the next shift.
Carts and trolleys:
These are more useful than hand caddies when a large amount of supplies and items are to be
carted or replaced. They are ideal for the efficient removal and carriage of smaller pieces of
cleaning equipment, cleaning agents, linen and rubbish. They eliminate the time wasted in
assembling equipment at the work location or moving them from one place to another. The
various kinds of carts and trolleys that may be used in the housekeeping department are
discussed here.
· Maid’s cart/Room attendant’s cart: Also called a room attendant’s trolley, maid’s cart or
chambermaid’s trolley, this is perhaps the most significant piece of equipment in the
housekeeping department. It is like a giant tool box; stocked with everything necessary to service
a guestroom effectively such carts available are now made of metal, but sometimes wooden carts
may be in use. The cart should be spacious enough to carry all the supplies needed for a GRA to
complete half a day’s room assignments. Since the cart is large and may be heavily loaded, it
must be easily manoeuvrable as well. The ideal cart would have fixed wheels at one end and
castor-wheels at the other. The cart should be well organised so that the GRAs do not have to
waste time in searching for supplies or make frequent trips back to the supply room. Also if the
cart is not stacked neatly, it will look very unsightly when in the guests’ view. There is usually
one such cart for each room section and it is stored in the floor pantry along with other
housekeeping supplies. Fig 7.6 shows an organized room attendant’s cart.
Most of these carts have 3 deep shelves – the lower 2 for linen and the top, partitioned shelf for
small supplies. The carts also have a sack for soiled linen, detachable trash bags, storage space
for a vacuum cleaner and a hand caddy. Many carts also contain a locked box in which to store
the guestroom keys, incase a floor master key is not being used. While arranging the linen on the
cart, it should be kept in mind that the heavier linens must be placed on the lowermost shelf and
the smaller, lighter ones on the top shelf. Housekeeping supplies that are usually found in the
room attendant’s cart are listed in the table below:
· Janitor’s trolley: This is used for carting and storing cleaning supplies. It is used during the
cleaning of public areas or any special cleaning projects scheduled for guestrooms. It includes a
detachable trash bag and a place for storing cleaning agents and small pieces of cleaning
equipment.
· Mop-wringer trolley: This piece of equipment consists of a mop and one or twin buckets with
an attached wringer, all mounted on a trolley with caster wheels. It may have provision for
holding cleaning agents as well as a trash bag.
· Linen trolley: These are used for the transfer of clean linen from the laundry to the linen room
or from the linen room to the floor pantries and so on. Linen trolleys may be made of aluminium
or steel.
· Laundry sacks: These, in fact, may or may not be mobile (and hence may not necessarily be
trolleys). They may be made of wicker, fibreglass or plastic. A very popular choice is the one
made of tough cotton with drawstrings, as it can be washed frequently.

All carts and trolleys need to be kept clean, wiped daily and stored in a locked, dry, well-
ventilated area when not in use. A thorough cleaning may be done once a week. The wheels may
be oiled during this cleaning. Carts or trolleys should never become general dumping grounds
when not in use.
Sundry equipment
This includes other miscellaneous pieces of equipment used in the housekeeping department –
ladders, carpet beaters, and abrasive pads, rubber gloves, airing racks, fit pumps and choke
removers.

Ladders
Ladders are generally made of wood or metals such as aluminium. These days, fibreglass ladders
are also available. The different parts of a ladder are the rungs (treads), stiles (side rails),
spreaders (the hinge-and-brace arrangement) and footpads.
When buying a ladder, one should primarily consider the following points:
 What kind is needed for the work it is going to be used for – for occasional work,
it may be cheaper to hire a ladder than purchase one.
 The weight that the ladder must bear.
 The condition of the ladder.
 The physical work environment it will be used in.

There are 5 main types of ladders used, based on hotel properties.

· Single-section standing ladders or stairladders: This is the simplest, old-fashioned ladder with
2 straight stiles and rungs fixed across them at a minimum of 254mm intervals. The ideal ones
are those with both stiles curved at the apex for safety.
· Stepladders: Various types of stepladders are available. A basic stepladder has 2 rectangular
stiles fitted with treads that are a minimum of 76 mm in width. The treads should lie horizontal,
parallel to the ground when the ladder is placed at an angle of 75 degrees. A platform stepladder
gives a more stable work position with a high-level platform for holding tools and materials in
use. It is available in various heights, or without a high-level handrail. The platform must not be
more than 3.85m above the ground. The A-type platform ladder opens up like a pair of scissors
to make a free-standing set of steps with a small platform at the top, thus leaving the worker’s
hands free and eliminating the need to keep getting off to get tools and materials. It is very stable
and if fitted with a handrail above the platform, extra-safe. The steps may be folded together for
easy storage of the ladder. A swing-back stepladder is self-supporting. Locking stays are fitted
together to brace the steps. When opened up, the treads of the ladder lie horizontal.
· Extension ladders: These are used for working at greater heights. These consist of 2 or 3 parts
that can be slid along each other to add the required height. They are available with 2 or 3
extensions and in various ‘closed’ lengths of 2.5-3.5 m. A double extension ladder which can
give a long length of about 8m should be sufficient for most 2-storey properties. Longer, 3-
section ladders can give lengths of up to about 10m. In the case of smaller extension ladders, the
ladder may be extended by hand & secured by stay locks that rest on a selected rung. On larger
ladders, the sections are extended by means of a roped loop running down the side of the ladder
and secured upon a cleat.
· Combination ladders: A combination ladder offers various arrangements to give a stepladder,
an extension ladder and a stair ladder in one piece of equipment. The sections fold down to about
the same size as a platform stepladder.
· Roof ladders: This type of ladder is used when working on a pitched roof. The roof ladder has 2
wheels at the upper end, which enables it to be pushed along the slope of a roof without
damaging the shingles. On the end opposite to the wheels, the ladder forms a hook to fit over the
top ridge of the roof, which stops the ladder from slipping down.
Angle of inclination:
Whichever ladder is used, if it leans at an angle, it should be ensured that the bottom of the
slanting section is about 1 foot away from the vertical support for every 4 feet of ladder height
between the foot and top support.

Maintenance and storage:

Ladders should be stored in a sheltered area, away from the sun and rain. Wooden ladders
especially are adversely affected by exposure to heat combined with dampness. They need a dry,
well-ventilated storage area. Wooden ladders used outdoors should be treated with shellac,
varnished or given 2 coats of linseed oil as a protective treatment. A wooden ladder should never
be painted, as this can hide any defects that may arise, making the ladder potentially unsafe.
Straight (stair) and extension ladders should be stored horizontally on racks or hooks, with
support points at the top, middle and bottom of the ladder, to prevent sagging and warping. All
ladders should be kept scrupulously free of oil, grease, wet paint and other slip hazards.
Periodically tighten the reinforcing rods under the steps of a stepladder, spreader hinges and
other joints. Despite all the precautions, ladders should nevertheless be carefully inspected for
wear and damage before each use. In case of any damage, it is always best to discard it.

Carpet beaters:
Beating of carpets, although not recommended, sometimes becomes a necessity. Wire beaters
should be avoided as they may damage the rug. Instead, rattan beaters should be used. While
beating, it is best to place carpets and rugs with their naps down on the grass. They should never
be hung up and beaten.
Abrasive pads:
These are available in the form of non-woven, nylon netting pads, suitable for the removal of
localized, heavily impacted soiling by abrasion. Pads with different abrasive properties are
produced. Wire-wool and steel-wool pads should be used with caution as they may damage
certain surfaces.

Mechanical Equipment:
The various pieces of mechanical equipment used in the housekeeping department are usually
powered by electricity or gas. The staff should be well-trained in the operation of these
equipments since incorrect usage will not only lead to inefficient cleaning but may also become a
safety hazard.

Vacuum cleaners/ Suction cleaners:

Vacuum cleaners remove debris and soil and/or water from a surface by suction. All vacuum
cleaners work on the same operating principle. In all types, motor drives an impeller, which
sucks in air through an inlet, creating a difference in pressure between the air within and outside
the machine. Air drawn in from the inlet passes through and out of the machine. Air drawn in
from the inlet passes through and out of the machine. Usually the air is sucked in together with
soil, debris or water. The dust is collected into a container provided, which may be within the
body of the machine (as in cylindrical and canister models) or on the outside in the form of a bag
(as in upright models). The dust-collecting apparatus in the heavy duty models used in hotel
properties usually consists of 2 types of dust bags. The inner bag is made of disposable paper and
the outer one is made of fabric.

Types of vacuum cleaners: Various types of vacuum cleaners are available.

· Dry vacuum cleaners: These are used for removing dust and small pieces of debris from floors,
upholstery, furnishings, walls and ceilings. Those using a flexible hose come with attachments,
such as a floor-cleaning head, a power head, a crevice-cleaning head, an upholstery-cleaning
head, a dusting head and extension tubes. Many variations of the dry vacuum cleaner are in use:
Electric brooms: These are very lightweight vacuums without a motor-driven beater brush. They
are used only for light vacuuming and for touch-ups on carpets and hard floors. In other words,
they come in handy when a full vacuuming is required.
Dustettes: These are small, lightweight vacuum cleaners used for cleaning curtains, upholstery
edges, mattresses, computers and music systems. They clean by brushing and suction and are
very easy to handle. The may be carried in hand or strapped to the back of the operator.
Backpack vacuums: These are very efficient to clean high, hard-to-reach areas. The vacuum unit
in these machines can easily be strapped to the back of the operator. These machines have hand-
held wands that come with various attachments for flexibility in cleaning. They are ideal for use
on curtains, drapes and ceiling corners. These vacuums are also referred to as piggyback
vacuums.
Upright vacuums: These vacuums are the ones more frequently seen in hotels. The main body of
the vacuum lies horizontal on the floor and is driven by a single motor. The dust-bag is outside
the machine’s main body. There is a belt-driven beater brush to facilitate removal of dust from
thick-pile carpets. In an improved variation, there is a dual-motor system – one motor drives the
beater brush and the other provides the suction. The machine also has a built-in hose for cleaning
corners and upholstery. This machine is most suitable for use on large carpeted areas.
Cylindrical vacuums: These have no rotating brushes and work by suction only. The term
‘suction cleaner’ is generally used for these kinds of vacuum cleaners. A filter-cum-diffuser is
fitted at the outlet which removes fine dust and micro-organisms from the flow of air passing
through the outlet. The filter-cum-diffuser also reduces air disturbance and noise. The dust-bag is
inside the cylindrical body of the vacuum cleaner. A flexible hose along with the different
attachments is used to clean a variety of surfaces. These are the type commonly used by GRAs in
guestroom cleaning.
Pile-lifter vacuums: These vacuum cleaners are used to groom long-pile carpets. They lift up the
carpet pile that has become packed down and restore their vertical orientation. It is especially
useful before shampooing the carpet, more so if the soiling is heavy.
Centralized vacuum: In this type of unit, suction is generated at one point in the building.
Meanwhile, soiling can be removed at vacuum points somewhere else in the building by suitable
nozzles connected to detachable flexible hoses. The collected dirt is then conveyed by a network
of pipes to a central container. This unit is expensive to install and is generally done at the
building construction stage. The advantages of this kind of system are :
 It is extremely hygienic, since all the dust is carried away from the point of
cleaning.
 Maintenance costs are usually lower.
 Operative fatigue is lower.
 There are no frayed flexes to repair and no individual machines to go wrong.
·
Wet-and-dry vacuum cleaners: These are extremely useful in hotel housekeeping operations.
They can pick up spills and excess wash water when on the wet mode. When on the dry mode,
they help in removal of dust and debris. In hotels, these machines are usually used in their wet
mode to pick up spills. They are also required when large areas of floors are being stripped of
polish and cleaned. They have a flexible hose with attachments such as a squeegee head. The
waste water collects in a tank that needs to be emptied after use. A variation of this is the large
tank-type vacuum cleaners. These are also called canister-type or industrial vacuum cleaners.
They can be used for dry and wet pick-up or both. The waste water is scooped up by a squeegee
attachment through a nozzle and travels back into the tank. They are used for cleaning large
areas when time is a constraint. They are ideal for cleaning lobbies, banquet halls and
restaurants.

Points to consider while purchasing a vacuum cleaner:

The housekeeper needs to pose and find answers to the following questions while purchasing a
vacuum cleaner:
 Is the suction power sufficient enough to dislodge dirt as well as remove dust and
debris?
 If the suction power on its own is not efficient enough, can a machine with a
rotating brush be selected instead?
 Can the suction power be directed to where it is needed?
 Is the machine portable enough for the staff and the layout of the building?
 Does all the dust get trapped inside the air bag before the air passes out from the
outlet?
 What attachments are available along with the machine?
 How easy is it to empty the contents of the machine?
 What is the noise level while operating the machine?
 üIs the cost of the machine within the budget?

Care and storage:

Vacuum cleaners will give maximum cleaning efficiency when they are maintained well.
Housekeeping staff need to be trained in the care and maintenance of the machines. The wheels
of the machine need to be oiled periodically. After use, the dust bags should be checked and
emptied. If the machine is operated with the dust bags full, cleaning will not be operated, the
machine may heat up too much and the bags may get damaged. Wipe the casing daily and check
the hose and flex before use. Clean the attachment heads after each use. Check the filter after
use. If the machine is meant for dry suction only, never use it to clear even a little amount of
water, else the dust bags will get damaged.
Incase of wet vacuums, the bucket should be washed, rinsed and dried. The squeegee should be
wiped clean and replaced whenever necessary. The hose needs to be rinsed out, the casing and
wheels wiped and the filter checked after use. The wheels need oiling periodically.
The hoses should be stored hanging on hooks. The tubes and attachment heads of a dry vacuum
cleaner should be stored in boxes, drawers of shelves. The hoses and attachment heads of wet
vacuum cleaners should be stored off the ground on a rack, in a well-ventilated place.
General-purpose floor machines (scrubbing and polishing machines)
These are designed for scrubbing, buffing, burnishing, scarifying and spray maintenance.
· Scrubbing: The bristle tips of a brush or the surface of a pad abrade and cut the soiling to
remove it.
· Buffing: The bristle tips of a brush or the surface of a pad create a high-gloss finish on the floor
surface. In case of a surface on which a polish has been applied, it will involve generation of a
local heat to harden waxes and resins.
· Burnishing: The tips of a brush or the surface of a pad abrade and cut the floor surface to create
a smooth surface with a glossy finish. In case of a polished surface, it will involve the removal of
a surface layer of polish.
· Scarifying: The bristle tips or edge of a cutting tool, cut into impacted soiling and remove it by
means of a chisel-like action.
· Spray cleaning : This is similar to spray cleaning, but the term is applied to the maintenance of
floors where a buffable or semi-buffable polish has been applied and the bristle tips of a brush or
the surface of a pad remove both soiling and the surface layer of polish to leave a smooth, glossy
surface. Resins and waxes in the maintenance product form part of the restored finish. These
machines consist of one large or several small brushes that revolve and scrub the floor. Water
and detergent are released from a tank attached to the machine. These machines can be used for
shampooing carpets, polishing floors and spray maintenance. Such general-purpose machines are
preferred in many establishments as the machine can be put to greater use due to its versatility. In
some machines, coloured, abrasive nylon pads replace the scrubbing brushes. For normal-speed
machines:
 Beige pads are used for buffing;
 Green pads are used for scrubbing; and
 Black pads are used for stripping.
The lighter the colour of the pad, the lesser abrasive is the action. These machines may come
with or without the suction capacity to pick up water. If the machine is one without a suction
action, then the machine will have to be used in conjunction with it while scrubbing. The usual
attachments for these machines are brushes, drive discs, coloured nylon pads, a water tank, a
shampoo tank and a sprayer.

Care and storage of general-purpose machines:

The brushes and pads should never be left on the machine after cleaning. The brushes should be
detached after cleaning. The fluff should be removed from them after washing. Wash, rinse and
dry wet ones after use. The dry ones should be washed occasionally, but dust should be tapped
away after use regularly. The pads should be washed, rinsed and dried thoroughly. The tanks
should be emptied, washed and dried. The wheels and casing should be wiped after use. The
wheels need oiling periodically. The flex should be checked for any fraying before each use.
Brushes and pads should be stored in a well-ventilated area, preferably on airing racks or hooks.
They should not be kept flat on the ground. The tops of the tanks may be loosely fitted during
storage.

Wet-extraction systems:
These machines are used to restore the surface appearance of carpets, upholstery and curtains.
They remove the more deeply embedded soilage not easily removed by suction cleaning. They
are also useful in the application of soil-retardant finishes on carpets.
Types of wet-extraction systems: There are various types of wet-extraction systems.
· Hot-water extraction machines: These are machines with no rotary action. They carry a tank for
hot water and detergent, which are used for deep cleaning carpets. The hot water and detergent
are shot into the carpet from high-pressure spray nozzles. The dirt is thus flushed to the surface
and this, along with the soiled water is removed by suction into a container in the machine.
· Solvent extraction machines: These machines are primarily used for cleaning upholstery and
curtains and to a lesser extent for carpets.
Carpet shampoo machines:
These machines, as indicated by the name, are designed for the deep cleaning of carpets that are
heavily soiled.

Types of carpet shampoo machines: There are 4 broad groups of these machines:
· Steam-extraction machines: Though these machines are universally called steam extraction
machines, there is in fact no generation of steam and the cleaning agents are simply hot water
and detergent. Hot water containing the detergent is injected at a prescribed rate and
subsequently extracted by a wet vacuum system built into the machine.
· Cylindrical-brush dry-foam machines: This system has a cylindrical brush that scrubs that
scrubs and picks up in one pass, the foam generated by the machine.
· Rotary-brush wet-shampoo machines: A rotary brush cleaner in conjunction with a wet
shampoo is employed for the cleaning of carpets here. The machine comes with a range of
accessories including vacuum and drying equipment.
· Small rotary-brushes wet-shampoo machines: This is also a rotary brush cleaner, but employs 2
brushes instead of 1 and is somewhat smaller than the rotary-brush wet-shampoo machine.

Scrubber-drier-sweepers
These machines remove debris, soiling and/or water. They are suitable for large areas where
mechanical sweeping, scrubbing and drying are required.

Types of scrubber-drier-sweepers: The various types available are as follows:

· Power sweepers: These are self-propelled or manually propelled machines designed to remove
debris and loosen soiling from roads, pavements, carpets and large areas of hard flooring.
· Pedestrian-driven sweepers: These feature a battery or mains-operated rotating broom that
carries dirt back into a hopper. A side-broom suction unit and filters may be included.
· Petrol or gas-driven sweepers: These have petrol or a gas-powered engine to drive a suction
unit and brush. Soiling is brushed back into the inflow and collected in a large cloth sack situated
behind the motor. These machines are suitable for the sweeping of pavements, car parks and
similar heavy-traffic areas.
· Self-propelled sweepers: These machines may be petrol, gas or battery-powered. The power is
transferred to the drive wheels and a rotating broom, which carries soiling away from a surface.
Such machines typically contain:
 A side broom to carry debris from the floor edges into the path of the main
broom.
 A water spray or suction with the side broom to prevent rising of dust clouds.
 A high volume suction-unit that sucks or blows air through a filter as dust or dirt
is deposited in the hopper.
 A filter shaker or air-flow reverser to prevent blockages.
High-pressure washers:
This type of equipment is designed to remove soiling by subjecting the surface to water, steam
and/or sand under pressure. Water under pressure physically dislodges the dirt. The process can
be assisted by the use of hot water, steam or sand.

Scarifying machines:
Scarifying is the process by which heavy grease, mud, wet sawdust and thick deposits are
removed from the surface of floors. The process is employed when simple scrubbing has been
ineffective. Here dirt deposits are broken up by the chisel-like action of a wire-brush cutting tool.
Types of scarifiers: 2 kinds are available -
· Heavy-duty scrubber polishers: These single-to-three-brush machines can have a brush weight
of 65kg or more. They are used in conjunction with a scarifying assembly. Dislodged dirt is
removed by a second operation involving sweeping.
· Self-propelled scarifiers: These consist of a revolving tool, a hopper into which the dirt is
thrown up by the tool and suction-unit filter to remove finer particles.
CLEANING MATERIALS
There are many materials and reagents, which help in cleaning, scrubbing and polishing surfaces.
Some of these are commercial preparations for cleaning and you may be already familiar with
some of them.

a)Water- Water is the simplest cleaning reagent available to us. Some dirt may be loosened and
dissolved in it. Although most of the time, some other cleaning agent is also used along with it.
b) Detergents- Detergents are available in powder, solid (soap, soap flakes etc.) and liquid form.
These are used with water to clean various surfaces.
The basic ingredients in a detergent are surface active agents, known as surfactants. A detergent
may have more ingredients to make it more effective, like alkaline salts, bleaches, foam boosters,
germicides and perfumes. The exact nature and use of a detergent will actually vary according to
its ingredients.

However, there are a few points which should be kept in mind while choosing a detergent. It
should –
 be readily soluble in water
 be effective in all types of water and produce no scum
 have good wetting powers so that the solution penetrates between the article and
the dirt particles
 have good suspending powers to suspend dislocated dirt and not allow it to settle
back
 be effective over a wide range of temperatures
 be harmless to the article and the skin.
 clean quickly
 be easily rinsed away

c ) Abrasives- some of the common abrasives are sand, finely powdered brick, saw dust, wheat
bran, emery paper, fine ash, filtered chalk etc. Besides these, steel wool, nylon mesh, coconut
fibers are also used to scrub dirt. Their use depends on the surface to be cleaned and the type of
dirt to be removed. The extent of cleaning will depend upon the nature of the abrasive used and
on the scrubbing action.

d) Acids- strong acids are used to clean toilets (water closet and sinks) and are available in
crystals or liquid form. Milder forms of acids are also used to clean very dirty tiles. Acids should
be rinsed off as soon as possible after use and should be stored away from children. Vinegar and
lemon are used to clean stains on metals like brass and copper.

e) Alkalis- baking soda and ammonia are used as grease emulsifiers and stain removing agents.

f) Bleaches- stains on fabrics are removed by bleaches such as sodium hypochlorite, sodium
perborate, hydrogen peroxide, sodium hydrosulphite etc.

g) Solvents – solvents such as methylated spirit, carbon tetrachloride, kerosene, petrol etc; are
used to remove grease, wax and other stains from the surfaces. You should keep methylated
spirit, kerosene, petrol, away from fire as they are inflammable. Carbontetrachloride is harmful if
inhaled.

h) Polishes- polishes are used on surfaces such as floors, furniture, leather and even metals.
When rubbed on a surface, they provide a protective covering to the surface and produce shine.
The article also gets cleaned in the process.
Ready-made polishes are expensive as compared to home-made ones.

Apart from these equipments and cleaning agents, there are other materials which are used in a
cleaning process, such as disinfectants, deodorants, antiseptics, etc.

Selection of Cleaning Equipment

It is the responsibility of the executive housekeeper to procure the ideal, most efficient
equipment for her staff to ensure maximum productivity. The choice of equipment to be
purchased is made after considering the following factors:
ü Safety in operation.
ü Suitability to the type of area, surface, work, amount of obstruction and cleaning frequency.
ü Versatility to undertake various types of cleaning
ü Work performance in terms of capacity and machine and consumer reports on performance.
ü Ease of handling in terms of size, weight and height of the machine and ease of manoeuvring
and operating.
ü Portability in terms of ease of transfer between floors and the provision of wheels and
detachable parts and consumer reports on life expectancy.
ü Noise level which is a more important consideration for hospitals than hotels.
ü Availability of spare parts, easy servicing conditions and lead time after booking of equipment.
ü Protective design which may feature a protective edging to prevent damage to wall furniture
and fittings and no sharp edges.
ü Ease of storage in terms of ease of dismantling detachable parts and storage space required
(compactness).
ü Cost as a sum of initial costs, operating costs, maintenance and depreciation, as well as hiring
considerations as opposed to purchasing.

Evaluation questions
1. Find out and list the latest equipment and at least five cleaning materials/reagents available in
the market.
2. List the cleaning tools/ equipments and materials /reagents in your house.
3. Given below is a list of reagents. Specify their role in cleaning.
i. Lemon
ii. Jewellery rouge
iii. Sand
iv. Ammonia
v. Methylated spirit
CLEANING AND SPECIAL TREATMENT AGENTS

Classification of cleaning agents and special treatment agents

Cleaning agents are classified according to the principal method by which soil or stains are
removed from a surface
The principle classes are:
 water
 detergents
 abrasives
 degreasers
 acid cleaners
 organic solvents
 other cleaning agents

Choice, use and storage of cleaning and special treatment agents

Choice of cleaning agents

The choice of cleaning agents will depend on the following factors:

a) Type of soil
Different types of soiling will require different types of cleaning agents
b) Types of surface
No matter how effective, a cleaning agent must not damage the surface being cleaned. Wrong
choice may damage surfaces and injure the user
c) Method of cleaning
It must be established whether cleaning agents other than water will be required. The agent
selected must allow the least labour intensive method to be used.
d) Manufacturers recommendations
Although cleaning agents are frequently recommended for particular types of soiling or surface,
it must be noted that a recommendation does not necessarily make a particular agent the most
appropriate one to use.
e) Health and Safety
Always use the least harmful agent first before resolving to harsh products. If a harsh one must
be used, then thought must be given to the provision of protective clothing and training on the
use of the agent.
f) Cost
Cheap products may be a false economy because they may increase labour costs considerably.
Choose the best product for the money available.
g) Testing
Before purchasing a cleaning product, it must always be tested in a work situation. Then select
and purchase the best.
Use of cleaning agents
Once a cleaning agent has been selected for use, its effectiveness, efficiency and safety will
depend on the following:
a) Manufacturer’s instructions
Generally, these should be followed particularly with respect to dilution and safety warnings
b) Dilution
It is generally related to the amount of soiling and the method of cleaning used.
c) Protective clothing
Essentially, protective clothing must be worn when handling strong chemicals
d) Training
Staff must be trained in the correct method of use of all the cleaning agents within a building.
e) Contact time
Sufficient time must be allowed for the cleaning agent to act on soil. Many cleaning agents will
damage a surface if contact is prolonged.
f) Rinsing
Adequate rinsing is essential to remove all the soil and cleaning agents from a surface
g) Temperature
Most cleaning agents will work more effectively at a higher temperature, particularly when
removing grease, fats and oils.
h) Mixing
Cleaning agents when mixed may inactivate each other and may be hazardous. Never put
cleaning agents in dirty water.
i) Storage
Containers must be correctly and clearly labeled. When not in use, they must be kept in locked
stores.

Storage of cleaning agents

The following are the points to consider when storing cleaning agents:
Label all containers clearly and with water proof pens or labels
Indicate the dilution rate if necessary
Ensure the tops/covers are secure and containers are kept clean
Store all the containers neatly to avoid damage and spillage
Keep aerosol containers away from hot pipes and radiators
Ensure that shelves are strong to bear the weight of the cleaning agents
Keep the store locked when not in use
Keep the store well ventilated
Do not store heavy items very high on the shelves
Clean the store regularly
Use funnels for dispensing and pre-diluting
Rotate stock
Keep bin cards up to date
Check stock regularly
 CLEANING

Definition of terms

Cleaning
Cleaning is a process of removing dust, dirt or any other undesirable materials like stains, spots,
contents of an ashtray, etc.

Dust collectively refers to the loose particles, which are very easily moved by air and settle on
any surface. It is easily removed with the help of a dry cloth.

Dirt refers to dust which sticks to any surface with the help of moisture or grease.
It is more difficult to remove dirt as compared to dust. Dirt has to be removed either with a
detergent or any other cleaning agent.

Reasons for Cleaning

Cleaning will be required for five reasons:
Prevention of the spread of infection and disease. When maintaining a clean environment
prevention of the spread of the disease- causing bacterial and their removal can be of paramount
importance. Cleaning is the most important method of achieving this.
Dust Control. In some situation dust control is of paramount importance. In industries
manufacturing hazardous materials or when hazardous dust and fumes are a by- product of the
process involved, levels of dust within the atmosphere must meet specific levels In other
industry, e.g. pharmaceuticals and electronics, dust may interfere with the manufacturing
process.
Preservation of the fabrics, fixtures, fittings and furnishings. Accumulation of dust, grease and
other types of soil will lead to a progressive deterioration of a building and its furnishing. When
cleaning is neglected, this process of deterioration will accelerate and when eventually carried
out may require drastic methods which will cause further damage.
Provision of a socially acceptable environment. A clean and attractive environment is essential to
live and work in. guests are unlikely to return to a poorly maintained and cleaned hotel. People
using a building are more likely to respect one that is clean and well maintained. Employees are
also likely to be happy and productive.
Safety. Standards of cleaning and maintenance must be at least sufficient to meet the
requirements of the Health and Safety at Work Act 1974

Types of Soiling

Soil in a room or building may arise from four sources:

Carried into a room by the air
Carried in on feet and peoples clothes
Carried in on equipment
Caused by activities or operations carried out in a building or by persons in it.
Types of soil
Fumes and odours
Caused by gases or particles which may enter a building through windows and doors, or may
arise within the building. They include fine soot and corrosive acid gases, or odours caused by
the presence of activities of other people.
Dust
This enters a building through doors, windows, on clothes and footwear. Dust is one of the most
important agencies for the transfer of bacteria
Grit
These are large particles which will enter a building on footwear or clothing and may arise
within a building as a result of manufacturing operation and deterioration of building fabrics
Litter
It includes any large debris e.g. cartons, papers and cigarette ends.

Tarnishing
Silver will react with sulphites in the air to produce a dark discoloration of silver sulphide.
Copper reacts in moist atmosphere with oxygen to produce a green discoloration.
Stains and chemical soilage
These arise as a result of spillages, accidents, or vandalism, including localized staining of floors,
upholstery and carpets, urine and excreta.

CLEANING METHODS AND PROCEDURES

The methods of cleaning and maintenance employed will depend on:

the type of surface (wall, ceiling, windows or door)
The nature of the surface (smooth, textured, porous, nonporous or abrasion resistant) and the
type of soil
The frequency will depend on the standards of frequency required

METHODS OF CLEANING

a) Dusting
When any surface is wiped with a piece of dry cloth, (duster), it
carries the loose dust with it and the process is known as dusting.

i) Low dusting
This is the removal of loose soil from surfaces within a stretched arm’s length of the worker, e.g.
furniture, doors and floors
Dust should be collected in a well folded dust control cloth or mop and should not be shaken.
Shaking and Beating
When you shake or beat any soft material, like a carpet/rug or a curtain, the dust falls out,
making the article dust free to a large extent. This is mostly done in open air so that other things
do not get dusty.

ii) High dusting

This is the removal of loose soil from ceilings, ledges, pipes and fittings beyond stretched arm
length.
Dry dust control mops, long brooms fitted with special soft headed bristles may be used.

iii) Damp dusting

This is the removal of dust from surfaces using a cloth wrung from plain water or water with
very little detergent, which does not necessitate rinsing. It is a quick process which follows dry
dusting in daily cleaning.

b) Sweeping
When a broom or a brush is used to carry the dust laterally along the
room, the process is known as sweeping. While sweeping any vertical surface as walls, you
should remember to start from the top and sweep downwards.
Similarly for lateral sweeping as for floors, start from one end of the room and move to another,
preferably a door, and carry the dust all along or collect in a dust pan. All the movable articles
kept on the floor should be lifted, swept under, and kept back in place.

c) Mopping
Mopping is mostly done on floors. Extra attention should be paid to nooks and corners otherwise
it gets tougher to remove fixed grime later on.
Dry mopping
This method is used on hard floors, for example cement, terrazzo, etc.
After wet cleaning, a soft mop can be used to give the floor a shine.

Damp mopping
This is the removal of light soil with a well wrung mop. The mop should be rinsed after every
section cleaned.

Wet mopping
This is the removal of moderately light to heavy solid from the floor with a wet mop or floor
cloth and a detergent.

d) Scrubbing/Scarifying
Scrubbing is the removal of impacted soil or surface layers of polish and abrasion using a
scrubbing brush or an abrasive pad and the action of a cleaning agent.
e) Stripping/Burnishing
This is essentially the same as deep scrubbing, but involves the complete removal of
polish from a floor. A hard abrasive pad or steel brush is used.

f) Polishing/Buffing
When some reagent is rubbed on a surface to bring out the shine, the process is known as
polishing and the reagent applied is known as the ‘polish’.
Similarly, many other articles/ decorative items made of brass, wood, marble etc, may be
polished.
h) suction cleaning;
This is the removal of loose soil from surfaces by use of a vacuum cleaner.different attachments
will be required for different surfaces.
i) Shampooing;
This is the removal of soil in a wet form from carpets and upholstery.

Cleaning Procedures
Dusting:
Using a dry, lint cloth or static mitten, systematically dust vertical surfaces from top to bottom;
and horizontal surfaces with straight,
overlapping strokes.
Re-fold duster as necessary to ensure that dust is not redeposited on cleaned surfaces.
Draw dust out of corners and away from the edges of horizontal surfaces.
Do not flick or shake out cloth.
Replace cloth as necessary.

Damp wiping:
Prepare cleaning solution according to manufacturer’s instructions. Using a damp cloth wrung
almost dry, wipe surface using smooth strokes. As necessary, rinse cloth in clean water, recharge
with cleaning solution and wring out until almost dry.

Polishing:
Apply polish sparingly to a surface previously cleaned and allowed to dry.
Take care to avoid applying polish to adjacent surfaces.
When polishing small items, or items over a hard floor, spray the polish on to a cloth rather than
directly on to the item.
Do not spray an aerosol polish containing silicone onto furniture on a hard floor, as some polish
may fall on to the floor causing slippery conditions.
When dry, buff to a high sheen.

Factors that determine frequency of cleaning

Traffic
Cleaning when traffic is lightest will have a number of benefits;
Dust will settle and be removed more effectively
There will be fewer interruptions so cleaning an be completed more quickly
It will be more methodical allowing operatives to progress from one area to the rest

Occupancy
It is easier to clean an empty building. Work should be carried out when the building has been
vacated, or between one period of use and another
Other Services
Where operatives are required to provide other services at a set time, cleaning must be scheduled
around those times.

Cleaning schedules

The important question is how to do cleaning? You must have observed the cleaning process at
your own house. Do you clean your rooms completely by removing all the furniture etc, every
day? No, because that would require a lot of time and labour which cannot be devoted every day.

Then how to do the cleaning? For this, it is important to follow a certain schedule of cleaning.
Everyday, a general cleaning of the open surfaces like floors, furniture and other such surfaces is
required. Once in a while some more time is given to cleaning and
you probably move heavy furniture and clean beneath it or beneath the carpets. Maybe once in
six months or a year you empty the room completely and give it a complete wash, polish the
floors, whitewash the walls, ceiling etc.

Thus we can basically divide cleaning into three types of schedules:

a) Daily clean
b) A weekly clean
c) A spring clean

A daily cleaning would be a general cleaning done every day; a weekly cleaning would be a
more thorough cleaning done periodically, depending on the frequency of use. In a guest house,
hotel, or a hospital, it may be done once a week or even earlier. Spring cleaning is usually done
once a year or when particularly needed. It may be earlier in the case of a hospital.

A. General Procedure for Daily Cleaning

1. Once you enter the room, open all windows in order to let the fresh air come in.
2. Remove all unwanted articles like tea cups etc., and empty ash trays and dust bins.
3. Sweep the floor.
4. Dust all surfaces including furniture and fixtures.
5. Brush or vacuum clean the carpet.
6. Mop the whole area.
7. Replace linen wherever required, like in a bedroom, make the bed, in a restaurant cover the
tables, in bathrooms, check for towels, soaps etc.
8. In the end, adjust windows, do a general survey to see that everything is in order and to your
satisfaction.

B. General Procedure for Weekly Cleaning

Special cleaning is more thorough than daily cleaning.
1. Start in the same way as in a daily clean – that is, first open all the windows for fresh air.
2. Remove all unwanted articles like trays, teacups, bottles etc. Empty the ash tray and dust bins.
3. Remove all dirty linen.
4. Remove stains from walls, doors, windows and furniture.
5. Check and clean thoroughly, all the drawers, furniture, fittings, all hangings or pictures, lights,
etc.
6. Wipe, dust or polish table lamps, accessories, telephone, if needed.
7. Vacuum clean the carpets and other upholstery. If vacuum cleaner is not available, use a
brush.
8. Sweep, dust and mop the surfaces.
9. Replace linen with clean linen
10. Survey the room for any discrepancy and adjust windows as desired.

C. General Procedure for Spring Cleaning

Spring cleaning is done after long intervals, the frequency being as less as once a year. Thus, it
may also be called annual cleaning. It is the most thorough cleaning of a room.
1. Ventilate the room.
2. Take off all linen, including curtains and remove them from the room.
3. Remove all the movable articles including lamp shades, pictures, wall hangings etc., wipe and
clean everything.
4. If necessary, remove all furniture and furnishings from the room. At least remove soft
furnishings like carpets. Clean the cobwebs.
5. Sweep the floors.
6. If any maintenance work is required, this is the right time to do it.
7. Polish the furniture, decorative articles and floors.
8. Clean carpets thoroughly in the sun or send for dry cleaning.
9. Replace everything at the predetermined place, including all furniture and fixtures.
10. If desired, rearrange the heavy furniture to give a new look.
11. Dust and mop.
12. Adjust windows, survey the room to satisfaction.

Types of Cleaning Systems

There are Three types of cleaning systems:

1. Unit Cleaning
This is a type of cleaning system where work is done in a given sequence. Work is carried out in
one area and after completing, one moves to another area.

Advantages
Increased security as you do not have to move items from one area to another.
Training is simplified as work is carried out systematically
There is better organization as one follows a sequence
There is more job satisfaction in this method

Disadvantages
The work may be monotonous because it is repetitive in the different rooms
There is a lot of activity in one room for a period of time, thus disrupting the occupant
There is need for more equipment
There is the possibility of incomplete work
2. Block cleaning
It is where one particular job is done in one area and then the worker carries out the same activity
in another area, e.g. window cleaning from room to room.

Advantages
Less equipment is required for use
It is cheaper to operate

Disadvantages
Security is weakened
There is more disturbance to the guest
It is monotonous to the staff
Cleaning may not be done to the required standards

3. Team Cleaning
This is where a cleaning is done by a number of people who work in one area but performing
different tasks

Advantages
It is time and energy saving
It is not monotonous
Cleaning standards can be maintained

Disadvantages
The staff may not work well together
It is inconvenient to the staff due to lack of equipment
Carrying out a properly designed schedule of work may be difficult

CLEANING OF SURFACE FINISHES USED IN BUILDINGS

Types of surface finishes

Interior Wall Finishes

Following are some questions that may help to get you started:

 What type of interior wall finish does the room have?

 What is it that you like about the color?

 How does the room make you feel?

  Does the room invite you to come in, or does it push you away?

 What type of material does the wall surface have? Is it smooth or textured, real or
faux?

Choices to consider for your interior wall finish

Brick or Stone-Solid or veneers, both make a beautiful interior wall finish, but will need to be
installed properly to last. Check with the manufacturer for proper installation and structural
reinforcement requirements. Once it's up, you won't need to apply a wall finish-you're done.

Paint-is available in all types of colors and it even comes textured. There two basic types of
paints for your interior wall finish: oil based and water based.

Water based paint is usually less toxic and cleans up much easier. You can choose between flat,
eggshell, satin, semi-gloss and gloss finishes. The glossier finishes wash and wear better than a
flat paint, but you will end up with a shinier wall. The eggshell finish has almost no sheen and
washes much better than a flat paint.

Oil based paint, especially on trim, will usually wear longer and wash better than water based
paints.

Color-speaks volumes about a room. Where specific colors can make you feel calm, energetic,
or nervous. The perfect colors and tones for your home should be researched wisely in order for
your rooms to reflect the feelings you want them to.

Faûx Finish-a French term meaning a false finish. This finish can be made to look like brick,
stone, marble, granite, wood grain, leather, crackled paint, rusted iron, or verdigris and much
more.

Texturing Compound-is manufactured by many different companies. However, there are specific
types for different applications. If you are going to add texture to your walls, then you need to
make sure that it is compatible with the surface material you are applying it to.

Wall texturing is fun and the interior wall finish results can be quite astonishing. There are
endless design patterns that can be created. In addition, you can add other materials such as:
color tinting, glazes, and objects to the compound to make your walls truly unique.

There is a great non-toxic plaster product that utilizes natural clays, aggregates and
pigmentations that can be used in a number of different design styles. Whether you are wanting
to add that Tuscan, French Country, Southwest, or other, this clay plaster is versatile in any
décor.

Straw Thrown Plaster-is very popular in French Country walls. All you do is trowel on wet
plaster to your walls and literally throw a hand full of straw onto the wet plaster. Lightly tamper
the straw so that it embeds into the plaster with a clean trowel. Once it's dried apply either one or
two coats of an aged yellow tinted glaze to age and seal the wall at the same time.

Sand, Pebbles, Glass, Artifacts-to give an artistic quality to your interior wall finish. Get
creative and be artistic! One of a kind walls can be created by just using your imagination. But,
before you attempt it-take a piece of scrap gypsum board and practice, practice, practice to come
up with the look that is uniquely yours.

Pigment-If you are looking for a true Old World textured wall, an easy way to achieve it is to
add pigmentation to your compound. Once it's put on the wall with a trowel and let dry, either a
glaze, or a wax is used to seal and age the wall.

Tile-comes in either porcelain, ceramic, terra-cotta, metals, glass, and natural stones, marble, or
granite. There is just about as wide of price range for tiles as there is different designs available
on the market. If you can't find what you are looking for you can have your own designs custom
made, or even make them yourself via a ceramic or pottery shop.

Wood-composed of either solid wood, plywood or veneers. It can be purchased in board

dimensions, flat or raised panels, shingles, or in large sheets. It is "WISE" to remember that if
you are wanting to install any type of wood product over a combustible wall system that an
approved fire stop is used between the wall structure and the wood surface for additional fire
protection.

Wall paper
Types
Vinyl coated paper —- As its name indicates, this wallpaper has been treated with acrylic vinyl
or polyvinyl chloride. These wallpapers are easy to clean and unaffected by long-term exposure
to humidity or grease. Vinyl coated wallpaper is especially recommended for bathroom, kitchen
and even basement walls for specifically this reason. This type of wallpaper is scrubbable and
strippable.

Coated fabric —- This type of wallpaper has an underlying layer of fabric also coated with a
liquid form of vinyl. This is not a good candidate for humid rooms such as bathrooms or walls
that will be exposed to grease, such as those in a kitchen. Coated fabric wallpaper works best in
low-humidity areas.

Paper backed vinyl or solid sheet vinyl —- This type of wallpaper has a layer of paper or pulp
backed to a decorative vinyl surface. Because of its vinyl surface, this is another good candidate
for high humidity areas. In fact, this type of wallpaper is good for almost any climate. It's also
easy to clean, scrubbable and peels off easily from the wall when it's time for removal.

Fabric backed vinyl —- This wallpaper consists of a layer of fabric laminated to a layer of solid
vinyl. There are two types of wallpaper included in this category. Solid vinyl is simply a layer of
paper or fabric laminated to vinyl film. Since the applied vinyl is solid and not liquid, it is
considered more durable than most other wallpapers. If you're looking for wallpaper that cleans
easily and lasts for a long time, this type of wallpaper is for you. Paper wallpaper consists of a
layer of decorative paper that doesn't necessarily have a protective layer laminated to it. Before
purchasing this type of wallpaper, check the manufacturer's instructions to be sure it works best
for your situation.

FLOORING
There are so many choices in the floor covering industry that choosing the right floor covering
for your home may be a challenge. By looking at all the choices available and weighing the pros
and cons of each product, you should be able to pick a covering that works best for each room in
your home. Keep in mind that each room in your homes serves a different function, so your floor
covering should compliment each room’s function and style.

The first decision you will need to make is whether you want to have your room done in a soft
surface such as carpeting or a hard surface such as hardwood, laminate or ceramic. Then you will
need to consider these factors - durability, longevity, cleaning ability and moisture resistance.

Here is a list of today’s most popular surfaces:

Carpeting
Carpet comes in a wide variety of styles and constructions to fit almost any decor from formal to
casual, ranging from berbers, saxonies, textures, friezes and patterned cut/uncut styles.

Berbers are made-up of a loop pile construction that are available with a pattern or without, and
patterns can range from small graphic designs such as diamonds or squares to larger, more
intricate patterns that resemble floral motifs.

Cut pile style carpets range from velvety saxonies, which are very formal and elegant, to more
popular textured styles, which are more casual in appearance. A characteristic of a saxony is that
it shows a natural shading of light and dark streaks - the kind made by footprints and vacuum
cleaners. Some people are fond of this natural shading, because it adds a rich lushness to the
overall appearance. There are a lot of casual styles on the market which minimize these
characteristics if you are not fond of seeing these marks.

One is a textured cut pile, which at first glance has a two-tone appearance to the yarns, but what
you are actually seeing is the reflection and absorption of light on the tips of the yarns. The
results is you see less tracking and vacuum marks. For even less shading, you might want to
check out a frieze style of carpeting. Frieze means "coarse, shaggy, woolen," and is characterized
by tall, thin yarns that are curled. It has a very casual, textured look, which minimizes the
tracking marks. This is a great texture for high traffic rooms, because it is very durable and full
of twists (the term used for what makes a carpet resilient). As for style, frieze range from solid
colors to jewel tone multi-colors, as well as "cut berbers," which are generally offered in off
whites with earth-toned flecks.

Fibre Facts
Before you make your final decision, you will need to understand some fiber facts. The most
widely used fiber is nylon because of its durability and resilience. The drawback to fiber is that it
can fade if exposed to direct sunlight and it is not naturally stain resistant. Most nylons are
treated with a topical stain to help resist stains, but overtime it will wear off. Brand name fibers
such as Anso, Wear-Dated and Dupont have a line of carpets that have added soil protection.

Olefin is very stain and fade resistant and a good choice if you have children or pets. The
disadvantage to this yarn is that it is not a very resilient fiber and will pack down quicker. For
longer durability, pick one with a loop construction.

Polyester has a built in, permanent stain and fade resistance. It comes in variety of colors and has
a soft feel. However, the drawbacks are it is not very resilient and it is the most oil absorbent
fiber, which means it is difficult to clean. If you opt for polyester make sure it is been treated
with Scotchguard or a similar treatment for soil protection - otherwise plan on having your carpet
cleaned regularly.

The top fiber is wool because it is the most resilient (not to mention soft to the touch and
luxurious) and the only fiber that ages well. Because wool naturally has low absorption, spills
generally stay on the top - making cleanup a breeze.

The cost of carpet averages around $18 a square yard, but varies depending on the manufacturer
and construction.

Hard Surfaces

There are endless possibilities when it comes to hardwood, ceramic, laminate and vinyl. Since
they are generally considered permanent floor coverings – you will want to consider durability,
maintenance and noise levels.

Hardwood Floors
If you want to give your home the look of natural beauty than wood is definitely something you
should consider. With its many species and variety in color and grain, you should easily find a
wood that fits your decor. Feeling exotic - then check out the wide range of exotic woods like
Brazilian walnut and eucalyptus, Australian cypress or bamboo from China. Then there are the
species native to North America like maple, red and white oak, cherry, birch, beech, ash and
pecan. If you are looking to create a one-of-a-kind floor (and you have the time), you can find
reclaimed hardwood flooring from historic warehouses and barns in species that are no longer
available like heart pine, yellow pine and chestnut.

Generally all of these solid wood floors can be purchased unfinished or pre-finished and are 3/4
inch thick. Thanks to newer finishing technology (using aluminum oxide) pre-finished hardwood
floors are actually more durable and retain its natural beauty better than the sand-and-finish
variety. It will be hard to find an installer that will be able to apply a better finish on-site than
what a manufacturer can put on your pre-finished hardwood floor.
If you really want the look of solid wood, but not the weighty price tag, you should look into
engineered wood floors, which consists of two or more layers and a top layer (called the wear
layer) which is 1/8 inch thick and generally made of oak, maple or cherry, but can be stained to
match your decor.

Other economical alternatives are wood laminates which are plywood based with a layer of
veneer on top. Keep in mind that these floor are not nearly as thick as the real thing and can only
be sanded and refinished several times - after that you will need to have it replaced. It is no
wonder manufacturers only warranty the finish for five years. It is hard to beat the look of wood,
but it does have its drawbacks - it requires periodic refinishing, it can be scratched and gouged
and it does not resist water well. These floors tend to be noisy, so you might want to consider
using area rugs to muff some of the sound.

Finishing Your Floor

After you chosen your wood species, now it is time to finish it off. There is no limit to the unique
looks you can create using stains, glazes, paints and finishes. You can get really creative by
having your floor faux painted, distressed or stenciled. Be sure no matter what finish you choose
that it is well protected by a sealer and multiple coats of polyurethane - how much shine is up to
you.

Laminated Floors
The surface of a laminate floor is actually a plastic composition that is applied to the core using
heat and pressure. The core is usually made of high-density fiber or particleboard, and the
backing can be paper, or another layer of laminate. Laminate flooring comes in a variety of styles
that try to mimic the natural look of wood, stone, and tile. Some types are glued together, while
others have a mechanical locking system where you just snap the pieces together. The wear layer
is made of zinc oxide, which makes it almost impervious to scratches and very durable, making
them an ideal choice for high traffic areas. Picture this: If you look closely at the pattern you’ll
notice each pattern is identical – that’s because it’s actually a picture of the real thing. You
cannot sand or refinish these floors so when they wear out (ten years or so) you need to replace
them.

Ceramic Tile
Ceramic tile is a natural product made of clay, minerals and water that are designed and formed
into a multitude of shapes, sizes, colors and textures. They are very durable and easy to clean,
but beware the grout lines and scratching.
Most ceramic floor tiles have either a glazed, or unglazed surface.
The glazed tiles have a special ceramic coating that is applied to the body of the tile and then
fired under tremendous heat so that the glazing becomes hard and non-porous. The benefits of
glazing is that it creates a floor that is resistant to stains, scratches, slippage and fire.
An unglazed tile is simply one that retains the same color on its face as it does its back. The most
popular unglazed tiles are red quarry tiles or porcelain. The benefits of not glazing is that dirt and
other effects of daily living do not show up as vibrantly as they do on a glazed tile.
Terrazzo is a mixture of marble and cement mixed together; two parts marble to one part
cement. When it is installed, marble chips are sprinkled on the surface so that a majority of the
surface is marble. Terrazzo was most popular during the 50's and 70's but is making its come
back over the past few years.

Vinyl
Vinyl is a very versatile choice for floor covering and is most commonly used in kitchens, bath
and laundry rooms. It comes in rolled sheets or one-foot-square tiles and is available as an inlaid
vinyl (pattern and color throughout the entire material) or rotogravure vinyl (knobby texture with
colors and patterns printed only on the finished surface). There are many designs and patterns to
choose from in each category, but they all have the same drawback - they can dent, tear or
become unglued.

Floor Trends

The trend in flooring these days is high performance - floors that can handle vigorous day-to-day
traffic and still look beautiful. Topping the durability list are concrete, cork, bamboo and a
limestone and vinyl composite. Concrete slab floors (usually used in basements and garages) are
finding their way into other rooms of the house. Not only are they durable, but they come in an
array of new colors. Limestone and vinyl composite is available in about 30 different colors and
patterns. It has a lifetime wear and stain guarantee.

Another hot trend is cork tiles with a hi-tech finish that comes directly off of the tree bark after
the wine industry has harvested its grapes. Cork is installed piece by piece over an adhesive and
is said to last forever. The drawback to this soft, quiet and inexpensive covering is that there is
limited color and style choices and unless properly treated is susceptible to water damage.

Bamboo is a new flooring option just beginning to grow in popularity because it is a nice
alternative to hardwood floors. Besides its aesthetic value, bamboo is very strong and stable,
even more so than many hardwoods because they will not swell or shrink.

Use, care and maintenance of different surface finishes

Floors

1. Cleaning of linoleum surfaces

Low degree of contamination and/or loose-lying dirt

• Remove by vacuum cleaning/ brushing and/or by moist mopping
Heavy, strongly sticking contamination
• Smaller areas: Spray until moist and collect loosened dirt with cleaning cloths
• Larger areas: use the twin-bucket mopping method or a suitable scouring vacuum cleaning
machine Scuff marks, heel marks
• First treat affected floor covering areas with spray cleaner
• Then machine polish

2. Cleaning Thermoplastic floors

They should be swept rather than vacuumed, as the end of some vacuums can scratch the surface.
Use undiluted cleaner to remove scuff marks. Do not use solvent products on this surface. Wash
with water and liquid floor cleaner and treat with water-emulsion wax.

3. Cleaning Ceramic Tile floors

Tile floors are both practical and beautiful. Here's how to care for and clean ceramic and
porcelain tile.
Dry Surface Tile Floor Cleaning
Sweep your floors frequently to remove loose dirt and dust. If possible, keep a pair of shoes for
house use only. Small stones and debris brought indoors on the bottoms of shoes can scratch tile
floors.

Spot Cleaning Floors

Clean spills immediately. Although most tiles are glazed and stain-resistant, the grouts are
porous.
Dry small drops and splashes since even clean water can leave dull marks.
To spot clean water marks and smears, wipe with a damp cloth and dry.
Keep a scraper handy to gently remove crayon marks, grease smudges and food droppings that
adhere to the tile. Always be careful to avoid scratching the tile.

Mopping Tile Floors

Many floor cleaners and bleach can leave a film on your tile floor’s surface. This may be
apparent when you view the floor from certain angles or under certain lighting conditions.
To avoid this dull residue, use only warm water when mopping and dry the floor afterwards. If
you do insist on using a cleaner, select a product which doesn’t require rinsing, and add only a
tiny amount to your bucket of water.

Tougher Stains
Sometimes stains or marks are resistant to mopping. A residue is especially common after a new
tile floor has been installed. Spot cleaning with a mild acid solution, followed by a prompt and
thorough rinsing, helps remove such residue and other stains.
Acid solutions can eat away grout, so rinse well. Remember to keep the room ventilated.
For floor grout stains, use a toothbrush to target the problem area. Use a mild acid solution and
rinse immediately. Resistant stains might require replacement of a small section of grout.

Other Tile Care Tips

Ceramic and porcelain tile can chip. Be careful when moving furniture and handling heavy
objects.
A sealer applied to tile grout will help protect from stains and preserve color.
Keep a small squeegee in the bathroom to wipe excess water from tile walls after showers. This
helps prevent water marks and soap scum buildup.

4. Cleaning Marble
Marble Tile Floor Cleaning
If your polished marble is protected with floor finishing sealant, the finish should be buffed or
burnished in and reapplied periodically to keep the surface optimally protected and looking good.
Because marble is so sensitive and very porous, only clean it with a neutral pH cleaning solution.
Wipe it dry to remove water spots.
Revive your scratched and dull marble surfaces with a neutral pH marble restorer.

How Should I Clean Marble?

Marble is very delicate and it does require maintenance to look its best.
Marble is a very soft stone and it is much softer than granite. It is also highly porous, so it is very
easily etched by acids. (vinegar, tomato juice, orange juice, etc) It's also prone to develop water
stains or spots, such as marks left by drinking glasses, or water spots after mopping.
Clean your marble stone surface with a soft cloth or mop using pH neutral cleaning solution.
Always wipe off any spills immediately as they happen.
Never, ever clean this floor with vinegar, as you will destroy the finish.
For stains, always seek professional help. Marble specific cleaning products are available for
removing stains.

5. Terrazzo Floor Cleaning Tips

To be able to clean the terrazzo floor you have to understand what it is made of. The marble part
of its surface is almost non-absorbent; however the cement binder is very porous and absorbs
stains easily. This is the part of the flooring which will cause you the most grief. In older floors
this seems to be the biggest problem; however if you are having a new terrazzo floor installed,
the last step of installation is to apply a penetrating sealant approved for terrazzo. This sealant
will be absorbed by the concrete pores, greatly reducing the absorption quality of the concrete.

If you have an existing terrazzo floor that is stained, you will have to use several steps to restore
it.
First you will want to remove the existing build-up with a plastic scraper (do not use metal
scrapers)
Apply your floor cleaner over the surface with a mop. For stubborn yellow stains, use a soft-
bristled scrub brush.
You will need to rinse the floor with a mop and water, rinsing the mop often. Be sure to rinse
well so that the floor can be sealed.
Once your floor is rinsed, then dry, apply an approved sealant with a roll paint brush. Allow
plenty of time to dry.

If you have new terrazzo being installed, most of the work is done for you. With today's
products, the sealants will provide a beautiful and long lasting look for your floors. Terrazzo is
easy to clean as long as the installation process was performed according to the installation
instructions.

It is important to keep sand and debris off the floor. Sweep the floor often as this debris acts as
an abrasive and can damage the floor.
Use a cleaner designed or approved for a terrazzo floor.
Wet mop the floor allowing the cleaner to remain on the floor for several minutes.
For the best results, rinse the cleaner off the floor thoroughly. You may need to change your
rinse water a few times.
Once the cleaner has been removed towel dry the floor to prevent water streak marks from
appearing and to restore the floors natural shine.
Do not use any types of wax on your terrazzo floor.

As with any hard flooring you can use carpet mats to trap dirt from coming into your home onto
your clean terrazzo floor. You may also want to place carpet rugs in high traffic areas and high
use areas such as your kitchen. With daily sweeping, and weekly mopping, your terrazzo floor
will look as new as the day it was installed.

6. Cleaning Wood Floors

The very best thing for any wood floor is to always vacuum and dust mop it regularly. This will
prevent dirt from building up and scratching and allowing the dirt to settle and damage the floor.
Never soak the floor with your cleaning solution. Always use the least amount of water to
remove the grime.
We usually use a vinegar and water solution by mixing 1 cup of plain white vinegar to 1 gallon
of warm water to make a mild deodorizing cleaning solution that does not need rinsed and leaves
no streaks or residue.
1. Work on one small area at a time
2. Dip a cotton cleaning cloth or mop into the mixture and squeeze out most of the liquid.
3. Wipe or mop the floor without spreading the liquid and getting it soaking wet.
4. Immediately dry with another cloth or towel bring out the shine and luster.
5. Do not allow your wood floors to get too wet and by wiping it dry you will not have any
water spots.
If you have Swedish finished wood floors, the finish will come off with time and wear. Do not
wax these floors, do not use wood polish. Call a specialty company and have the floor surface
refinished.

Waxing Hard Wood Floors

By hard wood, we mean older wood floors that have not been finished with an epoxy type resin
(called swedish finish wood) These floors are found in older buildings and though incredibly
beautify if properly maintained require a different type of cleaning than the newer epoxy coated
wood.
If your vacuum or dust mop does not restore the shine and luster to your wood floor, (again not
Swedish finish) try buffing the floor to restore the shine rather than applying more wax. Buffing
should always be tried first as it will often restore a nice shine and luster without adding another
layer of waxy build-up.
If buffing does not work, you will need to first apply a specific wood floor cleaner such as
murphy oil soap cleaner or other hardwood floor cleaner and a liquid wax that is made
specifically for wood floors. After the wax is applied, let it dry, and then buff it again.

Walls
1. Painted walls
They may be vertical surfaces, but your walls get dirty, too. When you get the notion, get your
wall cleaning in motion.
Things You'll Need:
Dry-sponges
Liquid Dish Soap
Soft-bristled Brush
Sponges
Terry Cloth Towels
Old Newspapers
2 Buckets
Ladders
Sponges
Terry cloth towels
Protect your floors with newspapers or towels.
Brush cobwebs and dust from the wall with a soft-bristled brush.
Remove any remaining dirt with a dry-sponge - a rubber sponge available at most hardware
stores. Rub the dry-sponge along the wall to lift dirt from it.
Fill a bucket about three-quarters full with warm water.
Add a small amount of dish soap - about as much as it takes to clean a sink full of dishes - to the
bucket. This will be the cleaning bucket.
Place a second, empty bucket near the cleaning bucket. (You'll use this when you wring out the
cleaning sponge.)
Dip a small portion of the flat face of a sponge into the cleaning bucket until it is damp.
Spread the cleaning solution on the wall with the sponge, beginning at the top and working
toward the bottom. Use a ladder to reach the high spots on the wall.
Squeeze - but do not wring out - the sponge over the empty bucket after wetting the entire
surface of the wall.
Blot the surface of the wall you've just cleaned to lift any further dirt from its surface.
Repeat this process until you have covered the wall.
Dry the wall using a terry cloth towel.

2. Use, care and maintenance of wall paper

Some wallpaper simply cannot be washed, especially that found in an older house that’s been on
the walls for many years. The key is in the surface material. If your wallpaper is simply plain,
old fashioned paper, it can’t be cleaned with water. If you are unsure, test your wallpaper in an
inconspicuous place, like behind furniture or in a dark corner.
Wipe the paper with a fairly damp cloth; if the color or appearance doesn’t change, it can
probably be washed carefully with water. Hardware stores carry helpful materials for cleaning
older or paper wallpaper. One is a dry sponge that can be wiped along the surface in long, gentle
strokes.
Another option is to buy a commercial wallpaper cleaning product. This material is like play
dough, and it doesn’t involve water. There are clear manufacturer’s directions on how to use it,
but always test an area first in an inconspicuous location.
Nowadays, wallpaper is made for easy clean up. Many newer wallpaper materials include vinyl
or plastic, which are much easier to clean, but still delicate, so be careful. You won’t want to
simply start scrubbing, as you would on a painted wall.
To clean vinyl wallpaper, first vacuum the walls and remove any cobwebs, insects, or anything
else that doesn’t belong. You’ll need a soft towel, two sponges, and two buckets: one with warm
water and a bit of dish washing detergent, and the second with cool water for rinsing.
Simply wipe the walls with the sponge dampened with the detergent mixture. It shouldn’t be
sopping or dripping; even though vinyl wallpaper can be cleaned with water, it’s still paper
underneath and can be damaged with too much water. Scrub gently, if necessary, but wiping will
usually be enough.
After cleaning with the detergent solution, follow up immediately by rinsing it with a damp
sponge of cool water. Then pat dry with a clean, soft cloth. This process must be done quickly or
the detergent solution will dry on the walls or the water will sit there too long. If the wallpaper is
extremely dirty and requires a second cleaning, wait until it is completely dry after the first
washing, and then begin again.
Never use abrasive pads or powdered cleansers, even on vinyl surfaced wallpaper. These will
certainly clean the walls, but will often leave a dull mark or take of color, making the area look
worse and eliminating any chance of removing the spot. Remember, an ounce of prevention is
worth a pound of cure. Keep pets clean and remind children to wash their hands often and keep
their hands off the walls. But when your wallpaper does get dirty, as it ultimately will, wash it
carefully and gently, and it will be sparkling clean in no time.

3. Care and maintenance of Tiled walls

Soap Scum on Bathroom Tile Walls
The easiest way to remove soap buildup from ceramic tile is to use a dry, slightly abrasive cloth
on a dry tile surface. Try a plastic kitchen scrubber, plastic bristled brush, or even extra fine steel
wool pad. Test an inconspicuous area first to be sure the tile won’t scratch, and then work in a
circular motion The dry soap scum should fall to the floor as a powder which can be rinsed
away.
If you are worried about scratching, vinegar also works well, but it requires more elbow grease
and you'll need to ventilate the bathroom.

Cleaning Tile Grout in the Bathroom

Before buying commercial products or using bleach, try these solutions.
Vinegar is a safe, eco-friendly cleaner. Use a sponge to apply vinegar to the grout, and a
toothbrush to scrub stubborn areas. You can also try using a paste made from baking soda and
water or cleaning the grout with hydrogen peroxide.

Kitchen Tile Backsplashes

Wipe tile walls near the stove, sink and work areas frequently. When frying, clean the tile before
grease splatters have dried.
A scraper is helpful for gently removing dried-on grease and food splatters. Follow up with a
cleaning product safe for ceramic tile.
For general cleaning of large wall surfaces, dust the tiles with a dry or damp cloth. If tiles are
dirty or smudged, try a mild cleaning product. Buff dry.
Unit Task 3: Types of stains

Stain removal procedures

Removing Blood Stains

Cover the blood stained with paper towels and blot up as much as possible. Then pour some
liquid detergent or disinfectant and cold water on the paper towels. You should let the solution
sit for 30 minutes.
Use cold water and scrub to wipe up and remaining stain, then wipe the area dry with clean paper
towels.

Burn Marks
Gently rub the burn mark or spot with fine grade steel wool along with either cold water or a
detergent solution..

Ink Marks
Ink marks will come off easily with fine steel wool and an all-purpose detergent solution. If the
stain remains, try using ammonia on it for about 15 minutes and wipe it dry.
You can also try using denatured alcohol to remove ink stains if the tile is vinyl. There are also
ink stain removers commercially available, but be sure to check the product instructions along
with the recommended surfaces first.

How to Remove Carpet Stains

Water dissolves many stains, so you can remove them without hiring a carpet cleaning
professional or buying a commercial stain remover

Here are two important things to know about removing every type of carpet stain. The longer
you wait, the harder it is to remove the stain. Blot the stain; don’t rub it. Rubbing can damage the
carpet fibers and set the stain permanently.
Try These Methods First
For most liquid stains, blot the stain with a clean white cotton cloth or plain white paper towel
until you remove most of the liquid. Rinse the spot with water and blot again. Repeat this step as
many times as necessary.
For semi-solid spills such as peanut butter, scrape gently with a spoon to remove as much of the
solid material as possible. Then follow the steps above to remove the rest of the stain.
Vacuum dried solids first; then follow the steps above.
For stubborn stains, pour club soda on a clean white cloth and blot until the stain is removed.
Stepping It Up
If the water and club soda methods don’t work, use a commercial carpet stain remover. Read the
directions carefully and test it in an inconspicuous area. Always apply the cleaner to the cloth
instead of the carpet. Blot the stain starting at the outside and work toward the center to prevent
the stain from spreading. Rinse the cloth thoroughly, add more solution and blot again. Repeat
until the stain is gone.

For some common but stubborn stains, an alternative cleaning solution works best. Try these
solutions on the following stains:
Specific Stains
Coffee. Heat the area with a hot, wet cloth. Pour white vinegar on the cloth and blot. Rinse the
cloth and repeat until clean. Dry the carpet thoroughly when you're done.
Fingernail polish. Apply non-acetate fingernail polish remover to a clean white cloth and blot,
working from the edges toward the center. Rinse the cloth and repeat until clean.
Red wine. Blot as much of the red wine with a clean white cloth as possible, rinsing often. Apply
white wine to the stain. Blot, rinse and repeat until clean. Dry the carpet thoroughly when you’re
done.

Removing stains from Painted walls

These can easily be removed using scouring powder indirectly on cleaning cloth. Work round the
stain from the outside towards the centre to prevent spreading the stain.
Rinse the area thoroughly after stain removal.

METHODS AND PROCEDURES FOR CLEANING DIFFERENT AREAS

1. Guest Rooms

CLEANING A VACATED GUESTROOM AND BATHROOM

Trolley
Clean and neatly arranged.
NECESSARY AGENTS, MATERIALS, EQUIPMENTS AND MACHINES.
1. Cleaning Agents.
(a) Scouring powder
(b) Liquid soap
(c) Disinfectant
(d) Deodorizer/air freshener
(e) Furniture polish
(f) 3-way toilet cleaner
(g) Methylated spirit(for stain removal)
NOTE:
Insecticide should also be available
Cleaning materials
(a) Sponge cloths
(b) Floor cloths
(c) Yellow dusters
(d) Glass cloths
(e) Special cloths
(f) Drying cloths
(g) Scotch brite
(h) Newspaper (for steeping on when cleaning high areas)
(i) White rags
3. Cleaning equipment
(a) Deck scrubber
(b) Bath brush
(c) Bucket
(d) Hand broom
(e) Dust pan
(f) Sweeping broom
(g) Cobweb brush
(h) Room attendants box

Cleaning machines
1. Vacuum cleaner
5. Necessary supplies
a. D.N.D .cards
b. Toilet rolls/balls
c. Guest soap
d. Laundry bags
e. Water glasses
f. Ashtray
g. Curtain hooks
h. Shower curtain hooks
i. Coat hangers
j. Vape tablets
k. Laundry and dry-cleaning lists
l. Curtain runners and stoppers
m. Curtain stoppers
n. Hotel brochure and tariff
o. Candle-holder and candles
p. Matchboxes
q. Stationery
r. Door knob menu
s. Room service menu
t. Guest commentary card
u. Sunday buffet reservation sheet
v. T.V. programmes sheet

Procedure of work
1) Knock twice at the door (using knuckles) pause in between.
2) Open the door and place the door wedge.
3) Draw the curtains and ventilate the room.
Look at the condition of the room .If the linen, waste baskets, T.V., e.t.c. are missing or furniture
is damaged or broken report to the housekeeper immediately.
4) Check for any item the guest might have left behind;
i. In the balcony
ii. In the desk drawer
iii. In the fridge
iv. In and underneath the beds and pillows under the mattress
v. In the wardrobe
vi. Behind the bathroom door
vii. Other parts of the bathroom
viii. Behind the main door

5) Switch off all the lights, T.V., air conditioner and vape device left on .If not on, check
whether they are in good condition and switch off.
6) Remove waste and trays from bedroom, bathroom, clean ashtrays and waste containers.
7) Strip the bed gently (remove them item by item) shaking it carefully off the bed .Check
for valuables .Remove dirty linen from the bathroom .Take it to the trolley .Remove any bed
board at this time.
8) Bring clean linen and place on clean surface i.e. the other bed.
9) Bring all the necessary cleaning materials and place near the balcony.

Agents.
(a) Methylated spirit( for stain removal mainly grease)
(b) Disinfectant
(c) Furniture polish
(d) Liquid detergent
(e) Scouring powder
(f) Deodorizer(air freshener)
(g) Scotch brite

Materials
(a) Floor cloths
(b) Glass cloths(2)
(c) Yellow duster
(d) Cleaning cloths( different colors)

Equipment
(a) Dust pan/dust pan brush
(b) Bucket with warm water
(c) Sweeping broom
(d) Deck scrubber
(e) Bath brush
(f) Room attendant’s box
1. Balcony
(a) Clean the inside of the balcony windows
(b) Clean the balcony furniture .Place in room.
(c) Clean the outside of the balcony widows.
(d) Clean the ceiling, walls, air conditioning unit.
(e) Sweep, clean and dry the balcony floor.
(f) Replace balcony furniture
(g) Place the cleaning materials, agents and equipment in the bathroom.
2. Make the bed.
(a) Pull out the bed –to have enough room
(b) Turn the mattress –to avoid sagging
(c) Place the under blanket .It should be clean and in place.
(d) Spread and tuck in the bottom sheet, smooth side up, middle fold along the centre of the
bed .Mitre the corners neatly .It should be tightened.
(e) Spread the top sheet .Should fall short by about 10” to 12” from top mattress.
(f) Turn the top sheet over the blanket .Tuck in the bottom side. Mitre the corners neatly then
tuck in all around.
(g) Insert pillow into pillow case .Fluff it up.
(h) Place pillow with the open side facing away from the view .The edge of the pillow should
be in line with the edge of the mattress.
(i) Spread the bedcover- level, straight, right side up, rounded edge to the bottom and same
level with the second bed. If too long tuck in at the head side. Iron it out with your hand.
(j) Push bed back into position .It should not be too close to the bed side table.
(k) Neaten the second bed.

NOTE; All bedding should be clean without stains, tears and creases. Replace burnt blankets and
bedcovers.
3. Dry-dusting.
Dry dusting the following areas with a folded yellow duster-;
i. Systematically round the room.
ii. High to low
(a) Main door frame
(b) Door stopper
(c) Wardrobe doors and top shelf
(d) Skirting board and the wooden wall
(e) Connecting door frame
(f) Wallboard
(g) Pictures
(h) Luggage rack
(i) Bulbs and lamp shades
(j) Fittings,sicket and plugs in the bedroom
(k) Dressing table drawers
(l) Behind the refrigerator
(m) Chair frames, legs and underneath the cushions.
(n) The TV. screen and the rest of the body
(o) The top of the coffee table and legs.
(p) Bedside table – inside, back, and front.
(q) Bed frames
(r) Shelves .Do not forget the telephone directory and the Bible
(s) Bathroom door
4. Damp -wiping
1. Damp wipe and polish the following areas using a damp soapy sponge and a glass
cloth/white duster.
i. Work systematically around the room
ii. High to low
(a) Main door handles
(b) Wardrobe shelves, hanger rail, door hinge and hand grips
(c) Connecting door handle
(d) Dressing table top
(e) Vape machine- (may be cleaned with scotch brite pad)
(f) Inside and outside the fridge
(g) Coffee table and legs (if stained)
(h) Bedside lampshades (if stained)
(i) Telephone-disinfect it too
(j) Bedside table top
(k) Light switches
(l) Walls
2 Replace the supplies and change the unpresentable ones
(a) D.N.D card (behind the main door)
(b) Laundry bags(2) with 1 laundry and dry-cleaning list
(c) Coat hangers (6)
(d) Ash trays
(e) Candle in the candle holder plus a match box
(f) Folder
(g) Writing papers(6)
(h) Envelopes(3)
(i) Breakfast cards(2 in folder and 2 on the bedside table)
(j) Guest commentary card(1)
(k) Hotel brochure(1)
(l) Room service menu(1)
(m) Sunday buffet reservation information sheet.
(n) Hotel tariff
(o) T.V. programmes information sheet.
3. Note any repairs to be done
4. Replace missing curtain hooks, runners and stoppers.
5. Clean the bathroom
1. Equipment placed in the bathroom should include;-

(a) A bucket of water at least ½ full disinfectant, a floor cloth and 2 sponge
Cloths of different colours
(b) Deck scrubber
(c) Bathbrush/scotch brite pad
(d) Glass cloths
(e) Special cloths
(f) Methylated spirit
(g) Liquid soap
(h) Scouring powder
2. Flush the toilet and sprinkle the cleaning agent.
3. Clean the bathroom and surrounding.
(a) Clean the bathtub inlay, and hang to dry.
(b) Clean the tub, walls and soap dish using scotch brite and liquid detergent.
(c) Clean chain and plug
(d) Remove hairs and threads from the drain
(e) Clean the taps using liquid detergents
(f) Rinse, dry and shine the drying rack, walls shower head, tower rail, chromium taps,
bathtub and soap using a sponge cloth and polish with a glass cloth.
(g) Clean the shower curtain and rail using a sponge cloth and liquid detergent .Dry using a
glass cloth.
(h) Clean the bathroom door and its handle( The inside part)
4. Clean the wash hand basin and surrounding.
(a) Clean and rinse the wash hand basin, the taps ,chain plug,
overflow and the drainage.
(b) Clean, rinse and dry the left side of the side shelf and the nearest wall.
(c) Clean, rinse and polish the water glasses place them on the clean and dried shelf.
(d) Clean, rinse and dry the remaining side- shelf and the nearest wall.
(e) Dry the wash hand basins, the drain, and the overflow and polish chromium.
(f) Clean an polish the mirror
(g) Clean and dry the shaving socket.
(h) Clean and dry the pipes, the towel ring and rail beside and underneath the wash hand
basin and the wall.
5. Clean the toilet and the surrounding.
(a) Clean the inside of the toilet bowl, and underneath the rim. Flush the toilet and clean the
toilet brush.
(b) Clean rinse and dry the outside of the toilet bowl, seat, lid water pipe, and flush handle.
(c) Clean the toilet brush holder
(d) Clean and dry the wall near the toilet including the vent
6. Replace the supplies in their proper positions .This should include;-
(a) Bath towels (2) )
(b) Hand towels (2) )
(c) Bath mats (1) )
(d) Face towels (2) if applicable )One should be able to read
(e) Soap (2) ) the Hotel’s name.
(f) Toilet rolls (3) )
(g) Water glasses (2) )
7. Replace any missing shower curtain hooks.
8. Scrub, rinse and dry the bath room floor paying attention to corners and the drain.
9. Remove cleaning materials, equipment and agents .Take them to the trolley
10. Give the bathroom a last glance, switch off light
11. Note down any repairs to be done.
Vacuum clean the carpet. (Use the hose to clean corners).
Move furniture to clean underneath.
(a) Beds
(b) Coffee table
(c) Fridge
(d) Luggage rack
(e) Cushions
Sometimes it may be necessary to sweep corners with a hand broom first.
12. Re-arrange the furniture neatly
13. Lock the balcony door, leave the curtains open.
14. Give the room a last glance
15. Remove the wedge and lock the main door.
Key points as you work
1) Observe quietness as you work.
2) Be alert and have an eye for details
3) Use systematic procedures to save time and steps. Avoid unnecessary steps.
4) Have respect for the responsibility which is yours to care for the most expensive
investment your management has-the guest room.
5) Concentrate on one room at a time and do your best with it before going to the next one.
6) Change the cleaning up water after using it at the balcony.
7) Equipment should be kept together and out of the way
8) Work without spillages
9) Radio,t.v. and lights should be off and in working order
10) The door should be left open while working in the guest room
11) Furniture and equipment should be handled with care
12) Avoid the use of too much cleaning agents
13) All linen should be without tears ,creases, and stains
14) Remember to report any repairs noted immediately
15) The toilet paper in use should roll from the top .(Fold ends of the paper into a ‘V’ shape.
Additional information
Vacant rooms (unoccupied)
The vacant rooms in the hotel have to be dusted, aired damp-wiped and checked daily. Some
establishments have all their beds turned down in the evening .Whether the rooms are going or
not.

Occupied rooms
Daily cleaning procedure of occupied rooms is the same as the one used for checkout (vacant)
rooms. The only difference is that in a departure room, thorough cleaning must be done and
some of the supplies replaced i.e. soap, Depending on the policy of the hotel, bedlinen in
occupied rooms may or may not be changed daily. The actual method of cleaning departure or
occupied rooms varies from hotel to hotel.

Not slept in rooms

This room must be aired, dusted damp wiped and checked daily. The bedcovers must be replaced
as soon as possible –i.e. when taking the room report at 9:00 a.m. Draw the curtains and switch
off the bedside light.
V.I.P .Rooms
1) Change the water in the flowers everyday
2) Remove eaten fruits, the peels and clean the cutlery ,crockery, e.g.
3) If a guest has his own private fruits or flowers in the room do not remove anything before
asking whether you can do so or not.
Priority for cleaning rooms
1) Guest and supervisor requests
2) Checkouts
3) Vacant
4) V.I.P.’s
5) Not slept in ‘s (sleep outs)
6) Make ups

Cleaning service areas

All areas which fall under this group must be kept clean at all times .They are areas where guests
do not normally come into contact with but for the safety of the employees who are just as
equally important, they should be thoroughly cleaned every day .This is so because of:
1) Hygienic reasons
2) Avoidance of accidents
3) Work simplication and
4) For creating a good impression
NOTE: The responsibility of the housekeeping department not only comprises cleaning, but also
their maintenance, repair, refurbishment and eventual replacement .It is therefore, the duty of the
housekeeping staff to report any areas needing minor or major repairs to the engineering
department immediately
NOTE- ADDITIONAL NOTES ON THE ROOM ATTENDANTS TROLLEY
The room attendants’ trolley is the ideal equipment for the room attendant to use in transporting
all the equipment required during the process of the cleaning guest rooms.
The trolley is on constant display to guests who pass by it when moving along the corridors, it
must therefore be CLAEN and TIDY at all times

POINTS TO REMEMBER.
1. Arrange the clean linen neatly on the shelves provided .Take enough for the number of
rooms to be cleaned.
2. Make sure that all cleaning equipment i.e. deck scrubber and materials i.e. special cloths
are placed in their correct position on the trolley and in an organized manner.
3. All equipment must be clean i.e. the caddie box .It is not acceptable to see buckets which
have grease rings inside them or full or dirty water ,or bits of used soap scattered around.
4. Ensure that the rubbish container is clean .Empty it whenever necessary.
5. Remember to take the sack for soiled linen for washing in the laundry regularly .It should
be repaired whenever it s torn.
6. Remove soiled linen to the dirty linen trolley in the pantry as often as required .Do not
leave the soiled linen sack on the trolley “over flowing” with dirty linen.
7. Always keep the supplies i.e. soap, toilet paper, stationery, laundry bags, candles, candle
holder, vape mats, ash trays, coat hangers etc.on top of the trolley in an orderly
fashion .Remember that this is not the correct place to put used glass cloths, sponge cloths,
newspapers and magazines etc, should not be left to fill up this part either .Take them to the
House keeping office.
8. When pushing the trolley from one place to another, take care not to knock it on walls,
doors and corners .It scratches them.
9. Remember to position the trolley in a manner that you can be able to spot would be
thieves.
10. Do not leave the trolley in the corridor unattended .When going for break i.e. lunch, tea
etc ,or when going to the laundry ,remember to lock up the trolley in the pantry.
The store or pantry.
This is where standards begin. An untidy or dirty store reflects the standards which may be
expected in the guest rooms. The guests may even wonder into these areas .It is therefore
essential that he /she forms a good impression .See to it that all areas are not on general display
to the front of the house e.g. guests and public .The cupboards and trolleys MUST be neatly
arranged at all times.
Cleaning methods.
1) Dusting-high dusting
-low dusting
2) Sweeping /vacuuming cleaning
3) Damp wiping
4) Mopping-dry
-damp
5) Scrubbing
6) Polishing
7) Shampooing
8) Stripping(extra polishing)
9) Buffing(shining surface)
Preparing a guest room for the night (Turning down)
This a practice performed in most hotels. It is usually done in the evenings between 6.00p.m and
8.00 p.m or specifically when the guest(s) are out for dinner. Its purpose is to freshen up the
room and prepare it in readiness for the guest (s) to sleep.
The room attendant’s trolley should be stocked with bath linen, bed linen, glass cloths, a
bucket of water with 2 sponge cloths and floor cloth, a special cloth, supplies, vape mats and a
carpet sweeper.
Procedure
1) Knock twice at the door
2) Wedge the door open
3) Switch on the dressing table light
4) Close the windows and draw the curtains
5) Remove waste trays and bottles if any from bedroom, remove waste from bathroom,
clean ash trays and waste containers.
6) Remove soiled linen from bathroom .Bring in clean linen and place it on convenient
place
7) Remove the bedcover, fold it carefully and place on the top shelf of the wardrobe.
8) Unstuck one convenient side of the top sheet and blanket fold them back to form a right –
angled triangle or according to the hotel’s policy.
9) Place any night attire neatly on top of the bed and any slippers placed neatly by the side
of the bed.
10) Switch on the bedside light.
11) Place a breakfast card on the pillow
12) Open the mosquito net and tuck it in round the bed neatly if any.
13) Place the vape mat onto the machine and switch it on
14) Replace or change the supplies if necessary
15) Fold any clothing lying around and tidy up any other objects if necessary
16) Switch on the bathroom light, enter and flush the toilet.
17) Clean and dry the bath tub, wash basin, and toilet if necessary.
18) Replace the bath linen ,soap and toilet paper if necessary
19) Dry any wet patches which may be present on the floor
20) Spread the bath mat on the floor beside the bath tub
21) Give the bathroom a last glance and switch off the light .Leave the door ajar
22) Carpet sweep or vacuum if necessary
23) Close and lock the balcony door .Close the curtains neatly
24) Give the bedroom a last glance.
25) Switch off all the lights, expect the bedside light.
26) Remove the wedge and close the main door gently.

2. Cleaning Public Areas

Public areas include the reception area, lounges, restaurants, bars, reading rooms, banquet rooms
and halls, conference and meeting rooms, circulation areas (lifts, corridors and staircases) and
sanitary areas
The well cared for entrance and reception area gives a good first impression to anyone entering
the building. When corridors, staircases, lifts and sitting areas also look pleasant and properly
maintained, the work that goes into keeping the bedrooms, wards, leisure areas and so forth
clean, will be all the more appreciated and so will every service offered by the establishment,
from the food prepared in the kitchens to the medical treatment.
In general, the cleaning procedures for public areas will take into account three factors:
They are used by a greater number of people than any other room or area .This means surfaces
and furnishings get spoiled more quickly .Wear and tear will be considerable, but even more
rapid if soil is not removed effectively and regularly.
They should always look attractive and inviting and be safe to be in. (On the other hand, hygiene
considerations are not as important as they are in sleeping, washing and food preparations areas.)
They have to be accessible at all times. This is particularly true of the entrance and circulation
areas such as corridors and staircases .Fortunately there are usually times when all the building’s
users are asleep ,or out ,or it is possible at quiet periods to close parts of the area temporarily(for
example ,by roping off half the foyer ,corridor or staircase )or shut a room altogether (for
example, a lounge) or take one facility out of service (for example ,a lift).
Frequency and Method of Cleaning.
The heavy use that public areas receive and the importance attached to their appearance means
firstly that weekly cleaning routines will include items that in a bedroom, for example, might
only be cleaned periodically, such as
damp-dusting picture frames ,skirting boards ,tops of door frames and high shelves
suction –cleaning carpet edges
cleaning backs of furniture
Secondly the more intensive cleaning methods will be used more frequently for example:
Upholstered furniture may require suction –cleaning daily.
Alkali detergents may need to be used weekly on metal and glass surfaces of main entrances
door
Windows ,mirrors, and picture glass may need to be cleaned weekly
Carpets may have to be shampooed every month ,curtains and upholstered furniture every six
months
Hard floor surfaces will need to be suction –cleaned and damp-mopped daily scrubbed or spray –
cleaned weekly ,and stripped and polished every 3 to 6 months
Walls may need to be washed every six months
Points to watch during routine cleaning.
Follow carefully all safety procedures
Think of the needs of guests and other staff on duty and keep to the minimum any disturbance or
inconvenience to them.
Follow as far as possible the general procedures for reducing the movement of dust and
dirt .Start by collecting rubbish, emptying ashtrays and waste bins, then damp-dust surfaces, then
suction –clean floors.
Keep the area free from unpleasant odours .If there is no air –conditioning system, this will mean
opening windows and doors for short time.
Check thoroughly for:
damaged ,faulty or missing items :report these in the appropriate way
stains on carpets, furniture and soft furnishings :deal with as soon as they are noticed
Lost property, particularly between cushions and under furniture in sitting areas: hand this in
with a note of the circumstances in which it was found.
Pay attention to areas and items that will get soiled more quickly as a result of heavy usage, for
example door handles and armrests and furniture.
Consider carefully the appearance of items:
keep brass plates, knockers ,handrails and stair rails looking bright and tarnish free
Keep notices, direction signs and such things as menu display panels free of finger marks,
smears and accumulated dust.
Where possible remove graffiti written or drawn on walls, signs, posters Ector report it so that
the defaced item can be replaced or re-decorated.
Pay particular attention to areas where rubbish might be dropped or accumulate or be
deliberately hidden by a naughty child ,for example:
behind curtains
down the backs chairs and under cushions
in flower vases and ornamental pots
when cleaning has been completed ,check carefully that :
all furniture is in its proper position
cushions are plumped up an attractively arranged
fittings are left as they should be, pictures level ,lamp shades straight with the seams out of sight
electric cables to light fittings are not caught under furniture or tangled and plugs are properly
pushed into sockets.
sufficient ashtrays are available
flower arrangements and indoor plants are looking their best
curtains are hanging straight
follow specific cleaning procedures as necessary for door mats ,lifts ,staircases and corridors
.
Cleaning of Corridors and staircases

Corridors
Corridors and staircases must be cleaned in such a way that anyone who has to use them while
cleaning is in progress can do so safely with the minimum of inconvenience and without
spoiling the appearance of the cleaned surface:
Divide the corridor or staircases in half (lengthways) and clean one half first .This means people
can proceed safely down the other half and their footmarks will not spoil the appearance of wet
floors.
If the corridor or staircases is a long one ,divide it into sections and clean one half of each section
first
Start at the highest point of each stair landing and work down paying attention to the skirting
board and the wall hangings

The cleaning of staircases

Stairs may be closed carpeted, or the carpet may only cover about two –thirds of the stair, in
which case there are two surfaces to clean .By using suitable attachments to a vacuum cleaner
the two surfaces and skirting board may be cleaned together.
Uncarpeted stairs should be swept daily and cleaned and /or scrubbed according to the material,
when necessary .If a staircase has to be cleaned, while people are using it, then, provided that it
is wide enough, half should be done at a time, enabling the people to walk up and down on the
dry part of the staircase.
It should be remembered that where the side of any staircase is open, dust and dirt may fall
through, therefore when sweeping the dust and dirt should be swept towards the wall on each
stair.
All bannisters and handrails should be dusted before vacuum cleaning, or after sweeping, and
washed or polished occasionally according to material.
Stair rods of brass or polished wood may be still used but nowadays the stair carpet may be held
firmly in position by the use of the ‘tackles gripper’ which eliminates the use of rods and makes
cleaning much easier.

Cleaning Lifts
In hotel, cleaning of the lifts is rarely the concern of the housekeeping staff but is usually done
by the uniformed staff.
The call button panel and outside lift doors should be damp-dusted as part of the corridor
cleaning programmed .Check that no finger marks remains.
The door track at each floor should also be suction –cleaned to remove rubbish and cigarette
ends which have collected in it. Call the lift, and then turn it off with the doors open.
Place a notice on each floor to warn anyone wishing to call the lift that it is out of service for
cleaning.
Turn off the lift using the control key
Remove any rubbish and empty ashtrays
Damp-dust the control panel ,any pictures ,mirrors ,display cases and the walls of the lift (unless
they are upholstered or carpeted)
Suction –clean the floor (and the walls if they are carpeted).Damp –mop hard floors.
Close the lift doors and damp-dust the inside of the doors.
Return the lift to service and remove the notices.

PRINCIPLES OF CLEANING

The order of the cleaning tasks carried out should reflect the following:
The job should be completed as quickly as possible, with the minimum amount of effort. So, for
example, the items to be carried in and out of the bedroom on each journey may be specified:
‘take the rubbish out, return with the clean linen’.
Methods should be standardized as far as possible, to establish uniformity and consistency.
The varieties of equipment and materials required in the establishment should be kept to the
minimum to help keep down maintenance and supplies costs.
Any tasks that will cause dust, for example, stripping the bed should be completed first, and
soiled items and rubbish which may carry bacteria removed.
When cleaning, start with the cleaner areas: if they are cleaned first and the dirtiest last, then dirt
is less likely to be transferred from dirty to clean areas.

WHEN TO CLEAN
The frequency of cleaning, both routine and periodic, depends on three interrelated factors:
The amount of soil that builds up
This will depend on the type of usage (for example, washing in the bathroom, food preparation in
kitchens) and frequency of usage (for example, busy corridors and entrance halls). It will also
depend on the age, condition and design of the various areas and location of the building. If it is
in an industrial area, the atmosphere is likely to be polluted and by the sea it is likely to be salty.
The required standard of cleanliness
Special areas such as bathrooms, toilets kitchens, operating theatres and intensive care units will
require a very high standard of cleanliness (referred to as clinical standard) Five- star hotels will
aim for higher standards of cleanliness than economy tourist hotels. Corridors and administration
offices will not require such high standards as wards and bedrooms.
The cost of cleaning
Almost every type of accommodation establishment has to operate within certain budgets and so
the staffing, equipment and material allocated to cleaning will be limited.
Normally it is only the proprietors or the senior management of the establishment that can decide
the balance of priorities. They will set the standards of cleanliness which will reflect the
customers’ expectations, ensure hygiene and safe conditions, help prolong the life of decorations
and furnishings, and keep with the financial resources.
It is usual practice, for management to specify how often a task is carried out, by stating, for
example , whether it is daily, weekly, monthly, three- monthly, six-monthly or annual task
There may be occasions when it may be necessary to vary the frequency of cleaning, for example
if a room has had extra- heavy usage or it has been raining a great deal and more soil than has
been carried into the building on shoes.
Sometimes, however, a task can be carried out too often, to the detriment of the item being
cleaned, For example, if furniture is polished too often, the surface may become sticky and
attract excessive dust. Money has to be wasted through using too much polish and the time might
have been spent to better purpose cleaning something else.

Sanitary areas
Toilets
There is a right way to begin cleaning a toilet. The right way prevents the spread of bacteria and
viruses. The right way of cleaning a toilet also saves time and energy.

Remove everything from around the toilet.

Cleaning the toilet is a messy job, and there's always the chance of splashing cleanser or toilet
water outside of the actual toilet. Prevent extra cleanup by removing all excess items from
around the toilet. Don't forget to remove anything on top of the tank to prevent dropping items
into the bowl during cleaning.

Flush and add cleaning solution.

Flush the toilet with the lid down to prevent splashing or spraying. Add your choice of
powdered, liquid, or gel cleanser to the bowl. Try to apply the cleaner as close to the toilet rim as
possible to prevent diluted cleanser.

Clean the exterior of the toilet.

While the cleansing solution soaks into the toilet grime in the bowl, clean the outside of the
toilet. Start at the top to prevent dripping on already clean surfaces. Spray the tank, handle, and
tank edges with cleaner and wipe down. Next do the outside lid of the toilet. Finally wipe down
the entire bowl. Start with the sides and front before cleaning the bottom edges of the toilet
where it meets the floor.

Clean the toilet seat.

The toilet seat should never be neglected. It is the part of the toilet that comes into actual contact
with people, and it needs to be cleaned thoroughly. Raise the seat. Spray the seat, inside lid and
the rim of the toilet with cleanser. Wipe down the lid, seat, and hinges at the back of the toilet
seat. Some toilets have hinges that will pop open to allow better access for cleaning.

Clean the inside of the toilet bowl.

Begin cleaning the bowl from the top down. Always begin scrubbing under the rim first. Look
under the rim to get all the stains and grime scrubbed away. Next scrub the bowl. Finally scrub
the hole at the bottom of the toilet. Flush the toilet with the lid down.

Wipe up any drips or spills.

Wipe up any drips of cleanser or water that may have occurred. Put away tools and trash.
Replace the items removed in step 1. Enjoy a clean toilet.
Tips:
Wear eye protection when cleaning a toilet. It prevents splatters of toilet water and cleaner. You
may also want to use gloves to prevent contact with your hands.
Flush the toilet with the seat lid down to prevent splattering and splashing.
Do not use sponges when you scrub a toilet. Sponges are a great way to breed bacteria, and there
are already enough in bathroom. Paper towels are a great options because they are thrown away.
If you use reusable cloths, wash them immediately in their own load on hot water with bleach.

Bathrooms
Bathrooms get dirty very easily and can require a great effort to clean up. The following tips will
guide you through how to clean your bathroom in the most effective way.
Firstly, remove any bathmats, towels and body care products out of the area to avoid damage by
the cleaning products used. It's very important for you to wear protective gloves, a mask and
apron as some chemical is very harmful to your body as well as your clothes, particularly mould
killers and bleach.
Start cleaning from shower room. Spray mold-killer on the tile wall and shower glass before you
scrub the whole surface with sponge. Do not use too hard scrubbing material as it may leave
some mark on the tile wall and shower glass. Make sure you also scrub the soap holder, shower
hose and its holder as well. Then pour bathroom floor cleaner all over the floor and scrub the
area with a brush.
Then it's time to clean the hand basin. rub cleaning cream all over the basin and tap, use a small
toothbrush to brush around the base of the tap and any hard to reach areas. Leave the cleaning
cream on the basin while you move to the toilet bowl. Put toilet bowl liquid all around the bowl
and spray the outside surface with some disinfectant.
Next is the bathtub. Rub the cleaning cream all over the bathtub and the tap as well. If there's a
soap holder nearby. Make sure you also scrub it thoroughly as well.
Now it's time to wash the cleaning products off all of the areas. For the shower room, it can be
easier just run the shower hose and rinse the whole area. With the hand-basin, use a soaking
small piece of towel help you wash the chemical away. You can do the same thing for the bath
tub - rinse the major area with a bucket of water and use an old soaking towel on the edge of the
tub as you may not want get too much water on the floor. Dry the edge and outside area of the
tub with a piece of cloth.
Use the toilet brush and brush all around the toilet bowl and inside before you flush it away.
Then get a piece of dry cloth to wipe the toilet bowl surface dry and clean.
To clean the mirror and shower glass, spray glass cleaner on the mirror and/or shower glass,
scrub the surface with a window cleaner wiper or a sponge. To wipe the surface dry & clear,
scrape the rubber side of the window wiper down the surface by holding it 45 degree against the
surface. Wipe the rubber side dry with a piece of cloth before you start another round of surface
scraping. For the perfect touch-up, rub a piece of soft dry cloth on the surface again. You can
also use a piece of newspaper as it has some chemical in the printing ink that will bring
brightness to the mirror and glass surface. However, please be aware that newspaper will leave a
black stain on your hand. Make sure you wear protective gloves to avoid getting black stains on
your hands that you could then leave elsewhere.
After finishing with the mirror and shower glass, wipe the vanity top & tidy up. Use multi-
purpose cleaner or a disinfected spray on the surface before you wipe it dry and clean. Use
another piece of cloth to wipe the tap and basin to produce a nice shine.
Distill floor cleaner liquid into a bucket of hot water at an appropriate measurement and mop the
floor all over. Use a piece of dry cloth to wipe the floor dry if you prefer your bathroom floor to
be dry and ready immediately.
Lastly, fold the end of the toilet paper into triangle shape for the perfect presentation. This is also
a subtle sign that you have been there and cleaned the room.
4. Cleaning a sickroom
Before beginning to clean the room, collect all your equipment and materials and place them
near the door on the outside.
The worker should protect himself with an overall or a dust coat, preferably, one who has been
immunized against the disease.

Making the patient’s bed

If the patient is very weak, the bed can be made while he is still lying in it. If the patient is able
to sit up, he can be placed on a chair on one side of the room, but must be warmly dressed.
If it is a daily routine, straighten out the sheets under the patient, tucking in the ends well.
Straighten out the top sheet and then the blankets, turning them back just below the chin of the
patient and tucking in the sides.
When changing the sheets while the patient is in bed, first remove the ends of the bottom sheet
from under the mattress and fold back the sheet lengthwise, till it is in line with the patient’s
body
With the right side of the clean sheet uppermost, place the sheet neatly up to the fold of the old
one. Tuck in the bottom and the top parts that are clear and make mitred corners on the top
corners.
Tuck in the one side, smoothening out the sheet.
Gently roll the patient to part of the bed with the clean sheet while still covered with the top
sheet.
Move to the other side of the bed and pull out the old sheet. Straighten the clean one out, tucking
in the other ends.
Roll the patient back to the middle of the bed and place the clean top sheet over him with enough
to fold back but all gathered just below the chin.
Gently pull out the old top sheet and tuck in the new one neatly.
Place blankets gently and neatly, ensuring that none covers the head of the patient.
Finally, fold back the sheet and blankets neatly below the chin and tuck in well. The bed cover
should be folded back to the bottom of the bed and left as a neat panel.

Procedure for cleaning the room

After making the bed, the room should be cleaned quickly and quietly.
Throughout the cleaning process, effort should be made not to raise any dust that may make the
patient uncomfortable. Avoid draught caused by the windows and doors open at the same time.
Use disinfected warm water in a bucket or basin and a clean floor mop
Wipe the floor systematically towards the door, picking up as much dirt as possible with the
mop. If the mop is not available, a floor cloth can be used.
Use clean disinfected water and a soft cloth for damp dusting the rest of the surfaces in the room
Wring out the water from the cloth and wipe carefully and methodically like for dry dusting.
Polish surfaces such as the furniture.
Tidy the room and articles used by the patient.
Provide a small attractive arrangement of flowers to make the surroundings more pleasant
Place the little things required by the patient close by for convenience e.g. books, play things,
magazines, etc.
Place a container of clean drinking water with a cover on a small tray.
A basin with clean disinfected water should be placed on a stool or stand near the door for
washing hands by the person who is attending to the patient. A mild household disinfectant or
antiseptic will do for this purpose, as well as a hand towel and soap.

Factors to consider in selection of cleaning methods

 Type of surface
 Degree of soiling
 Type of equipment available
 Manpower available
 Time available to clean
 Type of cleaning, e.g. daily or weekly

Plan of work

The following is a sample plan of work for cleaning a guest room.

Contents
Previous preparation
Work to be covered
List of equipment and materials and list of others
Actual plan of work/order of work and timing

Previous preparation activities

Collect cleaning equipment and materials
Set up work centre
Remove excess furniture from the room
Open windows for ventilation
Strip and air the beddings
Erect cleaning and warning signs
Identify cleaning areas
Change into housekeeping uniform
Writing a plan of work

Work to be covered
Carry out previous preparation activities
Make the beds
Sweep the room
Low dusting of the surfaces
Damp dusting of the surfaces
Mopping/Scrubbing the floor
Tidying the room
Cleaning equipment, wiping material containers and setting them up for final checking

List of equipment and materials

Equipment Number
Brooms 1
Mops 3
Mop buckets 3
Dust pan 1
Dust Pan brush 1
Buckets 2
Cleaning cloths 4
Yellow dusters 1
Basins 3

Materials Quantities
Warm water Enough
Cold water Enough
Detergent 200ml

Others
Newspapers
Masking tape
Labels
Cleaning/Warning
signs

Actual Plan of Work

Time Activity
8.00-9.00 Carry out previous preparation activities
9.00-9.15 Make the bed by turning the mattress to give it even
wear.
Place the bottom blanket and bottom sheet right side up
and mitre the corners
Place the top sheet and top blanket wrong side up and
mitre the lower corner
Turn down the top beddings to leave a space of about
60cm for the pillow
Place the pillow in position
Place the bed cover to cover the beddings and leave the
sides loose for easy turn down
Place newspapers or old sheet to protect the bed from
dust during cleaning

9.15-9.25 Sweep the room using a long handled broom with short
 even strokes from the furthest corner towards the exit.
Collect dust and dispose appropriately

9.25-9.40 Dry dust all the horizontal surfaces using a yellow duster
folded into a pad, starting from high to low areas, using
the L-stroke motion portion by portion

9.40-9.55 Damp dust the dry dusted surfaces using a cloth wrung
from clean water or water with little detergent, followed
by drying with a dry cloth

9.55- Mop the floor using a mop wrung from warm soapy
10.05 water using the figure 8 motion, portion by portion,
followed by a thorough rinsing and drying
10.05- Rearrange the room and leave it ready for use
10.15
10.15- Clean and dry the equipment used, wipe material
10.30 containers and set them up in readiness for final checking
INTERIOR DECORATION

Interior decoration
Interior decoration is the art of decorating a room so that it is attractive, easy to use, and
functions well with the existing architecture. The goal of interior decoration is to provide a
certain "feel" for the room; it encompasses applying wallpaper, painting walls and other surfaces,
choosing furniture and fittings, such as light fixtures, and providing other decorations for the area
such as paintings and sculptures. Interior decorating is done professionally by interior decorators.
It is considered a design field.
There is a distinct difference between interior decorating and interior design. Interior decorating
is generally focused on finishes, such as wallpaper, paint, window coverings, and furnishings.
Interior design involves manipulating the architectural integrity of the interior space as well as
the creation of a lifestyle experience through the study of environmental psychology.

Principles of Interior decoration

PROPORTION and SCALE

Proportion is about the relationships of one object to another, and how they look when placed
near each other. Some items of furniture, or paintings look good next to each other, and some
don't. The reason why some rooms "feel right" is often because some simple guidelines about
proportions were used.

HARMONY - The overall result

A well-decorated room is a unified whole that encompasses all the other elements and principles
of design. Put yourself in a visitors shoes and try and decide whether they would feel relaxed and
at home in your room. This is the ultimate goal.
There should be a consistency of sizes and shapes, and a harmony of color and pattern. The feel
of a room will be right, if it reflects unity, harmony and a sense of rhythm. Repeating the
elements, and balancing them throughout the room, accomplishes this.

EMPHASIS - A Focal Point

Emphasis is the focal point of the room. The focal point should be obvious as you enter the
room; it is the area to which your eye is attracted. Without a focal point a room will appear
disorganised or maybe even too busy.
Examples may be a fireplace, a window with a beautiful view, a large brass bed, a piano, or an
entertainment area. Whatever is featured, as the center of interest, must be sufficiently
emphasized so that everything else leads the eye toward the featured area. You can add emphasis
to a natural focal point or create one in a room through effective use of line, form, color and
texture.

RHYTHM
This is about pulling a room together by using color, pattern, shape or motif. It is the visual
equivalent of the beat associated with music. Rhythm is the important quality that results in the
feeling of harmony. It helps your eye move easily about the room, and give the impression that
everything in the room belongs to a unified whole. Planning in advance is the key here.
A THEME AND A PLAN
These are the two most important things in decorating a room or your home. It applies whether
you are starting from scratch, or doing a makeover. If you don't have a co-ordinated plan, the end
result will reflect an unplanned look.
Balance is about giving a room a visual equilibrium. It gives a sense of repose and a feeling of
completion.

Symmetrical balance
Nature gives us symmetrical balance in abundance. We have two arms, two, legs, two eyes, and
so on. In decorating, this refers to arrangements where the majority of the objects within the
grouping are placed in even patterns about a focal point. When you draw an imaginary line down
the center of a symmetrical grouping, each side mirrors the other.
This is the balance that comes more naturally to us, the grouping of things in pairs. There are
some "built in" examples of symmetrical balance which we accept as normal. For example, a
window has a pair of curtains.
Two ornaments on a mantlepiece, or a pair of wall lamps on either side of a display cabinet, are
both examples of symmetrical balance. This type of balance is regarded as more formal and
conservative.
It is quite in order to have a different theme in different rooms, but within one room, the aim is
that the interior decor should look as if it were part of an overall harmonious plan. A room
should project a relaxed atmosphere, and make your visitors feel at ease, and at home.

Asymmetrical balance
This is more interesting to the eye. However, asymmetrical groupings must still appear to be
balanced. If we were to draw an imaginary line through the middle of the group, each side must
be of similar size, even though the sides are not mirror images of the other. An example would
be a console table with a floral arrangement on one end, and a grouping of candlesticks on the
other.
SCALE is how the size of the items in a room relates to the size of the room. A lot of home
decorating is common sense when it comes to Proportion and Scale.
For instance a grand piano would be out of scale in a small sitting room. A delicate side table
with spindly legs would be out of proportion, if it were placed next to a large chunky sofa.
Large heavy pieces of furniture should not be grouped together on the same wall, as this will
give the room a 'lop-sided' appearance. Give a room more balance by spacing larger items of
furniture. If you have two large items of furniture, try placing them opposite each other. This will
appear to have more balance, than placing them in random positions.

Balance is about the placing of objects according to their visual weight.

Here's an example of common sense, but it does illustrate a proportion rule. Say you have a
painting, but it is narrow and must be hung vertically.
It will look out of proportion hung above the sofa. Rather hang another painting which has the
correct dimensions in relation to the sofa, as the drawing on the right illustrates. If you have quite
a number of items, don't fall into the trap that you have to find a place for everything. Your room
may look cluttered, and have an uncoordinated feel.

Rhythm - repetition
Perhaps this is best illustrated by some examples.
Color repetition. Cover a few scatter cushions for your sofa in the same material as your curtains.
Or pick the dominant colour from your curtains, and cover some scatter cushions in material of
the same color.
Shape repetition. If your windows were to have an arched top, then this shape can be repeated by
incorporating round back chairs in your room.

You can achieve a feeling of harmony in rhythm, by "echoing" a color, pattern or shape in
another part of a room. Using the same or recognizably similar table lamps and shades in
different parts of a room, will probably look better than two totally different lamps.

Rhythm - graduation
This is also known as Progressive Rhythm. It is about using the same object in different sizes.
Some examples might be the use of different sizes of framed mirrors, pictures or candlesticks.
You may also use graduation in colour, by using two colours of the same hue.

HANGING AND GROUPING PICTURES

The rule used to be that the center of the picture should be at the "nose" height of a standing
person.
A more modern guideline is that pictures can be hung lower than that - about 5cm (2 inches)
above a table, for example.
When you group pictures, hang them at least two inches apart so the eye can take in each
separate object, and can see that there is a grouping at the same time.

Functions of plants and flowers in interior decorations

Interior Decorating with Houseplants

Plants bring movement and life to every room in your home. However, you will be pleased by
the whole picture only if there is harmony in the arrangement and color of the plants you have
chosen. Once you have learned how to take these things into account when choosing your
indoor plants, you can let your taste and imagination plan the plant decor you have living in your
home.
The larger the room you are working with, the bigger and more numerous the plants can be.
Let’s face it, a single small green plant looks lost in a large empty space. Several flowering
plants in a basket or arranged in small pots on the same table can serve as a beautifully colorful
accent to a room. Treelike plants have great importance in the sense of decorating. Large-
leafed species like dracaena, philodendron or the banyan tree (Ficus benghalensis) can really fill
up a sparsely furnished room or entrance hall and leave their mark.
In a small room, large plants are oppressive and take up way too much space. To get the best
effect, you should choose mid-size or small plants with large delicate leaves. Put the plants
where they are going to be visible. Don’t put too many plants in a small space or it will get too
crowded and your individual plants won’t make their full impact on the room.
Plants always look best against simple backgrounds. If they have large foliage they should be
placed in front of wallpaper with a small pattern. Large patterned wallpaper calls out for
filigreed leaves or ferns. Even the umbrella sedge (Cyperus) would work for that. Wood-
paneled walls like climbing plants arranged on a wood or bamboo support. These also look
great by brightly painted walls.
Make sure your decorative scheme takes into account the way light enters your room. If you put
the plants in front of a bright, sunny wall, their shadows can create interesting and unusual
patterns on the wall or ceiling or even plain carpeting.
Make sure the colors of leaves and flowers you choose don’t clash with your decor. You don’t
want to take expensive furnishings and wall coverings and reduce them by the wrong colored
flowers in your pots. Place your plants by each other where they can compliment each other.
Put larger plants in the background of smaller plant groupings. A little bit of ivy (Hedera helix)
growing over the edge of a pretty bowl looks nicely casual.
Not only do plants affect your decorating sense and help you pretty up your home, they all have
some sort of way of improving your room climate. Abutilon hybrids, Aphelandra, Asplenium
nidus, Cissus rhombifolia, Cyperus papyrus, Fatsia japonica, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Musa
oriana, Nephrolepis exaltata, Pandanus veitchii, Rhododenron-simsii hybrids, Schefflera and
Sparmannia africana all increase the humidity in your home. Some plants reduce the chemicals
in the air. Aglaonema, Aloe barbadensis, Aphelandra, Asplenium nidus, Chamaedorea,
Chrysanthemum morifolum, Dracaena, Epipremnum pinnatum, Ficus benjamina, Gerbera
jamesonil, Hedera helix, Musa oriana, Philodendron, Sanseveria trifasciata, and Spathiphyllum
all reduce things like benzol, TCE, and formaldehyde.
Different furnishing styles take on different plants. It’s important that you put the right plants
into your decor to “complete the picture”. Yucca, Schefflera and rubber trees (Ficus) fit in well
with wooden furniture. Flowering plants look great with a country style decor. Bulbs and
primulas in the spring and special geraniums in the summer work great here. If you like the
straight or gently curved forms of steel, glass, marble and varnished wood, things like the snake
plant (Sansevieria trifasciata), Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), Dracaena and Guzmania
work wonderfully.
Plants with simple gently curving lines work in art nouveau and art deco settings. The flamingo
flower (Anthurium) and peace lily (Spathphyllum) are perfect. Furniture made of bamboo and
rattan and oriental style shapes are perfect for exotic hanging plants like string of pearls (Senecio
royleyanus) or wax plant (Hoya). Traditional English or French styles go well with bushy,
vigorously flowering plants like the cyclamen, carnellias, gloxinias (Sinningia hybrids) or
begonias.
All you have to do is play around creatively with plants and figure out what enhances your style.
It’s really not that hard. Once you start placing plants, you will know what goes with what and
what doesn’t.
.
How to maintain Silk flowers?
Silk Flowers are a good investment. They add beauty to a room and make it look prettier. They
last way longer than natural flowers and are extremely low maintenance. However, they do need
to be cleaned at regular intervals to make them look cheery and last longer. While purchasing
silk flower arrangements, be sure to select an item pre-treated for dust-resistance to minimize
maintenance effort.
Here are some ways in which you can take care of artificial flowers in your house:
Clean the flowers every 1-2 months, so that they do not need a thorough cleaning after 3-6
months.
Never clean silk flowers with hair spray. It may do more harm to your arrangement than help
clean it.
Commercial spray cleaners exist, in both aerosol and pump varieties. You can get them at craft
stores. It is not suggested that you blow your silk flower arrangements with a compressor blower,
a hairdryer, or even an aerosol can as that will only send the dust and dirt in a hundred other
directions, and it can also disrupt the shape and arrangement of your flowers.
There are some other methods by which you can clean silk flowers. Here are a few ...
Cleaning with Rice or Salt
You can clean an artificial flower bouquet by putting it in a paper bag along with handful of rice
grains. Put the flowers in head first and shake vigorously. In just a few minutes, your
arrangement will be sparkly clean.
After fluffing the bouquet, make sure all the flowers are in the right position. Using the back of
your hand lightly push the flowers back into position, to plump up the bouquet.
You can also substitute rice with salt to the same effect. Just remember to dust of the salt
properly.
All the best!
Do's and Don’ts in an arrangement
Do's
DO use inexpensive, in season flowers..
Do match the body of the container/vase to the body of the flower..
Do give the arrangement a correct position in the house..
Do give flower food according to the type of the flower..
Eg., Rounded gerberas fits best in round rather than square vases. Pretty Peonies, fragrant sweet
peas and scintillating roses look wonderful in pretty vases such as cut glass or delicate ceramics.
Buds like lily buds can stand up but not lily flowers, they ought to sit in the vase. The flowers
cannot overflow the vase.
Dont's
DON'T mix myriad colours..
DON'T supplement greens just for fun..
DON'T overwater the arrangements..
Eg., Do not use plenty of colors which emits gaudyness. Just do not fill up the empty place with
foliage, but be meaningful in arranging.
Flowers and arrangements
Flowers are used to make special occasions beautiful. But they can also form an integral part of
day-to-day beautification of the house.
Arranging flowers can be a really fun activity. There are some basic patterns in an arrangement.
They include vertical, horizontal, triangular, crescent, and oval arrangements, S and free-
standing arrangements.
The basic raw material used can also vary from one design to another, like 1. line materials,
which are the first pieces placed in a design to establish the overall width and height. 2.
Dominant flowers which can be flowers, such as lilies, irises or peonies. 3. Filler flowers or mass
flowers, placed in between the dominant flowers, such as moss or vines.
Tape, clay, and floral wire, floral tape covers wire and flower stems, Clay anchors foam, Wire
supports flower heads help in completing an arrangement.
A suitable vase is also important. It need not be expensive but simple and elegant will do.

Decorating a Living Room

Bright flowers in yellow best suit a living room, as yellow color is associated with the sun, the
source of life and warmth. Sunflower, Daisies, Gerberas etc. add cheer to a living room space.
Anthuriums symbolize hospitality, happiness and abundance and are a lovely flower. A Birds of
Paradise flower arrangement looks exotic and adds a tropical ambience.
A square shaped table can have a circle shaped flower arrangement, whereas if it is a rectangular
shaped table, it an arc shaped flower arrangement would be suitable.A fireplace in a living room,
can accommodate 2 mini topiaries on the mantle, or even a corner of a living room can have a
topiary.

Decorating a Bedroom
A bedroom is a very special, personal intimate place. To decorate the same, a lot of factors need
to be taken into consideration, like a person's likes and dislikes in colors, and shapes.
Roses are considered as the symbol of love. Though roses are universally used for almost all
occasions, they are highly preferred for adorning bedrooms. Peonies can also be used as they
symbolize a happy life and happy marriage, good health and prosperity. A dressing table can be
adorned with an arc shaped or circle shaped arrangement, with Roses and Peonies. Mini topiaries
on side tables create a romantic atmosphere.

Decorating a Dining room

A dining table can accommodate different types of arrangements, but especially broad based
arrangements with distinct colored shortly arranged flowers are most suitable. A round or a
square dining table can have a rounded flower arrangement while a rectangular table calls for a
an arc shaped flower arrangement at the centre.
Decorating a Kitchen
Windowsills can be adorned with lush greens. One can place terra cotta pots on a windowsill
planted by combining herbs and sun loving plants like primroses, African violets and kalanchoe.
Even old pitchers, teapots or clay pots can substitute a proper container in a flower arrangement.
FURNISHINGS

Caring for Your Upholstered Furnishings

Furnishings turn rooms into a comfortable home. Proper care will also keep your furnishings
looking good while they add enjoyment to your home. Although families with young children
and houses pets often have extra work to maintain upholstered furnishings in particular, prudent
care is worth the effort.
It is also worthwhile to note that it may be fairly simple to avoid some types of damage to
upholstered furniture. To reduce fabric fadin, for instance, avoid letting full sun shine on textiles.
Control the light with shades, blinds, or draperies. In addition, stashing a few paper towels or a
small terry towel underneath seat cushions will give you a quick way to deal with spills.
Vacuuming
Frequent vacuuming is the best way to clean and maintain upholstery. Vacuuming helps prevent
dust, dirt, and stains from embedding in the fibers of upholstered pieces and keeps them looking
new.

Here are a few quick tips on vacuuming:

Check for loose buttons and threads, weak spots in the fabric, or debris that could clog the
vacuum.
Clip threads and repair or tighten buttons before vacuuming.
Use the soft brush attachment on the vacuum. Be sure to keep it clean and free of oily residue.
Or, buy two of these attachments and label one for use only with upholstery.
Use a crevice tool for corners and tight spots.
Deep Cleaning

Important Tip: Read and carefully follow the furniture manufacturer's and cleaner label
directions before applying any product to upholstery.
Deep-clean upholstered furniture every year or two, depending on the use, color, and pattern.
Commercial cleaning, do-it-yourself cleaning, and foam cleaners all work.
Do not soak the fabric or furniture structure with upholstery cleaners.
Remove all soap residue to avoid attracting dirt to the clean upholstery.
Use a cleaning product that contains a soil retardant to prevent future staining. If in doubt, check
label directions or consult a professional cleaner about soil retardants.
If frequent soiling is a problem, use a spray-silicon soil retardant to prevent dirt and stains from
setting. If your fabric was treated at the time of manufacture or purchase (with a finish such as
Teflon or Scotchgard), it is important that you use compatible products whenever cleaning the
piece.
See spot cleaning tips on the following page.

Spot Cleaning
Spills are inevitable, especially when there are children in the house. Look at furniture labels for
care instructions or keep printed instructions in a household notebook.
Always test your cleaning method first on an inconspicuous spot. If a ring remains around the
stain after cleaning, you'll need to deep clean the entire cushion or chair.
Gently blot spills -- don't rub -- as quickly as possible with a white towel or paper towel. Don't
use colored towels or printed paper towels because they may transfer dye or ink to the
upholstery.
If a large amount is spilled, remove as much as possible with clean toweling, a scraper, or spoon;
blot up the rest, then treat the remaining stain.
It's generally best to remove slipcovers to spot-clean, to make sure the upholstery underneath is
not affected. Or, place a clean folded towel under the slipcover to protect the upholstery while
you work on spot-cleaning the slipcover. >
Removing Pet Hair

Use a clothes brush with either a bristle head or napped fabric head to collect pet hair.
Use a clothes lint remover with a refillable sticky tape to pick up pet hair. Or look for a similar
brush sold in pet stores.
In a pinch, wrap masking tape around your hand, sticky side out, to pick up loose hair and fuzz.

Choosing Fabrics

Cotton fabrics are commonly used for upholstery, however their durability depends on the weave
and finish. If a cotton fabric has been pre-washed (as is often the case with slipcovers), then it
should be fine to clean with soap and water, however, it is always wise to check the
manufacturer's recommended cleaning method. Cotton fabrics will fade in direct sunlight.
Cotton Blends can be a sturdy, family-friendly product. A stain-resistant finish should be applied
for everyday use.
Canvas can be a good choice for family rooms because it is especially durable. The flat surface
shows grime and holds dirt particles, however, so frequent vacuuming is a must. Pre-washing
before fabrication can make it easy to pop smaller canvas slipcovers into the washing machine
for cleaning.
Damask weaves are formal. They should be brushed and vacuumed gently to avoid breaking
threads.
Linen is best suited for formal living rooms or adult areas. Have soiled pieces professionally
cleaned. Keep linen out of direct exposure to sunlight whenever possible.
Microfibers are a new addition to home furnishings. Offering a soft hand and a vast color range,
they also resist most stains and can easily be cleaned with soap and water. This fabric is a good
choice for households with children.
Wools and wool blends are sturdy and durable to use for sofas and chairs. Blends can be spot
cleaned when necessary. Check manufacturer's recommended cleaning method.
Silk is a delicate fabric only suitable for adult areas, such as formal living rooms. It must be
professionally cleaned if soiled. Keep silks out of direct exposure to sunlight whenever possible.
Sunbrella fabrics are being seen both indoors and out. They offer superior resistance to stains and
fading which makes them a good choice for busy families.
Leather furniture should be gently vacuumed and damp wiped as needed, using as little water as
possible. Clean with leather conditioner or saddle soap, buffing thoroughly to remove residue.
Suede can be vacuumed with a soft brush attachment. Use only made-for-suede leather cleaners.
Remove small spots with art gum erasers. Never clean with water.
SECURITY IN HOUSE KEEPING

Importance of Security
 Protection of guests and associates
 Protection of the business
 Protection of the brand
 Investor confidence
 Shareholder value

SECURITY IN THE HOTEL

Security is not the prerogative of any one person an establishment; all staff should be Security
minded and report anything of a suspicious nature. Staff should realize the necessity of not
giving information regarding internal matters to such persons as enquiry agents, newspaper
reporters, etc.
Most large establishments ,e.g. hotels and hospitals ,have one or more security officers on their
staff to prevent crime and to protect guests and their staff from such dangers as theft, bomb threat
,fire or assault .In smaller hotels the responsibility fro Security will be the manager’s and in
other establishments will be that of the manager’s equivalent.
A Security officer, often an ex –policeman ,keeps in touch with other Security officers and any
information gained is shared among them .He should have sufficient seniority to command
respect from the staff and to ensure that the necessary measures are carried out .The Security
officer moves inconspicuously among the guest and is responsible for the arrangements
regarding:
 Suspicious persons or behavior;
 Keys, electronic locks and window locks;
 Bomb threats, fire precautions and the evacuation of the building if necessary;
 Inspection tours of the building to check for Security hazards, suspicious objects
and to deal with them accordingly;
 The number of unlocked entrances and exits;
 Closed TV for identification of persons entering the building;
 Searching of staff bags and body searches;
 Adequate watch on the premises to prevent prostitution;

Lost property procedures;

Investigation of reports of guests’ loses;
Provision of safety deposit boxes in guests’ rooms and ‘peep’ holes in the doors;
The safeguard of money when large amounts are being moved from place to place e.g. to and
from the bank.
The Security officer may or may not also be the safety officer and so may or may not be
responsible for safety precautions.
Good hall porters, by experience, get to recognize people with furtive air or remember those who
have given trouble in the past .Head hall porters in a hotel may belong to an association through
which they exchange information regarding undesirable characters.
Entrance halls of all establishments are vulnerable places .In large places ,hotels, hostels,
hospitals etc, there can at certain times be many people about and thieves and terrorists may take
advantage of this ,e.g. picking up unguarded articles or taking the opportunity of getting further
into the building .In small establishments the entrance hall is often not ‘manned’ and unless the
door is locked ,anyone may enter .The time –keeper keeps an eye on the back door and staff
comings and goings, and at times may inspect parcels an cases according to house custom.
There should be as few unattended doors to the street as possible, and at night all outside doors,
except fire doors which should only operate from the inside, should be locked and late staff
should enter by the front door .Ground floor windows and French windows should have safety
catches, and these should be firmly secured at night.
The housekeeper and her staff are about the building perhaps more than many other staff an dust
be aware of the ways in which they can be Security minded .If a thief wants to get into a
room ,he may gain admittance by telling the maid he has;
A repair to carry out;
Come to collect the television set or other articles;
Flowers to deliver to a certain room;
Forgotten his key.
Therefore ,a maid should be instructed to keep a look out for ,and report as soon as possible ,any
suspicious characters and be warned against opening doors for strangers ;when such requests are
made she must say that she cannot unlock the door ,but will fetch the housekeeper who should
check the name of the guest with the reception .Maids should be instructed to lock all doors
immediately they are seen and hand them to the housekeeper who will return them according to
house custom.

Keys
Since management has certain responsibilities for the safety of the guests’ belongings, the proper
care of keys is a very important aspect of Security.
Individual heads of departments are responsible for all the keys in their areas and the
housekeeper probably has control of more keys than any other departmental head .In a hotel
there are grandmaster, master, sub master and individual room keys.
Grandmaster key
This key opens all doors and, in addition, double locks them against all other keys;
Overrides the catch put on by the guest for privacy in the room –a precaution necessary in case
of an emergency, e.g. illness or injury;
Is used when access to a room has to be prevented, e.g. in the case of death;
Is used when a guest leaves his belongings in his room and goes away for a night or two;
Is used when a guest does not leave his key at the reception and the guest needs to be seen by the
manager for some special reason;
Is held by the Security officer, general manager, duty manager and sometimes by the
housekeeper.

Master key
This key opens all rooms in the house,
Is carried by the assistant housekeepers and floor service waiters while on duty, and sometimes
by maintenance staff.

Sub-master Key
This key opens all rooms in a maid’s section;
Is signed for at the start of the work;
Is attached to a belt round the maid’s waist and should never leave her person;
Should never be lent to anyone;
Is handed in when the maid goes off duty.
Last thing at night, the duty housekeeper checks the return of all keys and locks them away for
the night.
It is generally written into staff terms of contract that the loss of any master key will lead to
dismissal of the employee.
Individual room key
On being shown to a room a guest is given a key with a room number and the name of the hotel
on the tag. Guests are asked to hand in their keys when they go out and the keys are then put on a
key-board which should be out of view of passers-by as another security precaution .A key not
on the key-board should indicate that the guest is in the hotel ;this information can be useful in
the case of an emergency.
The mastering of locks is necessary but it should be realized that when locks are mastered a
certain amount of security is lost and great care should be taken in the allocation of keys to
responsible persons, emphasizing the need for the utmost care in their protection and use at all
times .It may be possible to zone rooms so that not all parts of the establishments are in jeopardy
should a master key be lost.

Key thefts
The locks in hotels are generally spring operated mortise locks but to overcome the problem of
key thefts ,keyless lock systems have been devised .They are expensive but are in use in some
hotels .They may be computerized but there is also a less expensive battery-powered lock
system, with an infra-red device which reads the guests’ cards. A disposable plastic card about
the size of a conventional credit card replaces the normal metal room key. One of these cards is
given to each guest on checking in .In the computerized system the card is coded by perforations
at random from a pool of more than four billion potential codes available from a master
computer console at the front desk .The random code is then transmitted electronically to the
specific guest’s room lock an only this particular card can open that room door. When the guest
checks out ,the code on that room is changed and a new guest will receive a new code on his new
check –in card; the old card automatically becomes useless .Similar cards may be coded as
master keys fro the maids and housekeepers and changed at frequent intervals at reception.
Re-keying lock systems may also help to overcome the problem of key thefts and a new system
allows the lock to be changed quickly and easily without having to take the tumbler apart,
without removing the lock from the door and without entering the room .The lock is changed by
using a special key which instantly changes the tumbler.

Lost property
It is general practice that any lost property found in rooms should be handed in to the
housekeeper’s office immediately (or other place according to house custom),and the
appropriate details should be entered in a lost property book, after which the articles should be
labeled and will usually be kept for a period of six months .Great tact should be exercised in
dealing with lost property and it is advocated that guests are not notified of the articles found in
rooms unless they are still in the building .Precautions need to be taken to ensure that articles are
only handed over to the rightful owner and not to any would –be claimant.
Valuables
Hotels have a safe or a safe deposit boxes and notices are displayed asking guests not to leave
their valuables in their rooms but to have them locked away in the safe .Should a maid come
into an occupied room and find valuables left there ,she should inform the housekeeper who will
deal with them according to house custom .It is less likely that guests will leave valuables about
when personal safes are provided in their rooms .Peepholes which allow guests to see who is
outside their door are considered standard security equipment in some hotels .
On being admitted to hospital unexpectedly a patient may have valuables or a large sum of
money which should be put into safe keeping .Similarly on the death of a patient there may be
articles to be kept until claimed by the next of kin, so suitable security arrangements need to be
made in all places .In some establishments (e.g. college halls of residence) residents are advised
to take out personal insurance against theft.

Other security measures

The housekeeper is responsible for the reporting of faulty window catches etc and at night should
ensure that all French windows and balcony doors are securely locked and that panic bars on fire
exit doors are adjusted to enable no entry from outside. In hotels baby sitters may be arranged by
the housekeeper and may be members of the staff or from an agency and both should have a
written permit from the housekeeper authorizing them to be ‘on the floors’; those from an agency
will normally collect the permit from the hall porter as they come into the hotel.
Inventories, stock lists e.t.c. kept by the housekeeper should help in discovering the loss of items,
e.g. linen, cleaning equipment e.t.c through pilfering and as a result investigations should take
place. The housekeeper and her staff should co-operate fully with the security officer over house
security regulations. All should realize the need to refrain from gossiping to outside friends and
from giving information regarding internal matters to such persons as enquiry agents, newspaper
reporters e.t.c.
For security reasons the housekeeper selects her staff carefully and prospective new members of
staff should be asked for the names and addresses of one or two persons to whom reference can
be made, and testimonials should not be relied on. In taking up references, it is wise, if possible,
to talk on the telephone rather than to expect former employers to commit themselves on paper

Evaluation questions
1. Explain in detail about lost and found procedure. (10)
2. Explain the role of key control in front office department. (10)
3. Write short notes on:
(i) Electronic key.
(ii) No show.
(iii) House count.
(iv) Master key. (10)
INTRODUCTION TO LAUNDRY

Definition of terms

Laundry
This is the process of washing and finishing or articles.

Washing
This is the process of using water, detergent and action in the removal of dirt from articles

Dry cleaning
This is the process of ‘washing’ articles in solvents and absorbents.

Spot cleaning
This is the process of removing dirt from a soiled part of an article. It is also known as local
treatment.

Sponging
This is the treatment given to articles using various laundry agents that happen to be soiled on
the surface.

Finishing
This is the process of removing creases from articles by either ironing or pressing.

Laundry plan layout

HYGIENE AND SAFETY

Hygiene requirements in the laundry area and linen room

Definition of terms
Hygiene
Hygiene refers to the set of practices associated with the preservation of health and healthy
living. Hygiene is a concept related to medicine, as well as to personal and professional care
practices related to most aspects of living, although it is most often associated with cleanliness
and preventative measures.
Safety
This is the condition of being safe; freedom from danger, risk, or injury
General Hygiene Practices
Staff should wear gloves when in contact with any used or worn laundry items, whether obvious
contamination is visible or not.
Gowns or aprons should be worn whenever it is likely that a staff person’s clothing could come
in contact with laundry.
The staff should be made aware of the basic principles of personal hygiene to help reduce
infection among staff. To achieve this, the following rules should be observed:
Keep fingernails short and clean
Wash hands after going to the toilet, sneezing or smoking.
Use paper handkerchiefs and dispose of them immediately.
Keep cuts and abrasions covered with suitable dressing.
Never smoke while working.
Wear rubber gloves if skin is sensitive.

Safety measures in the laundry area

All cleaning agent containers should be clearly labeled as to their contents and dilution ratios.
Stain removal agents should be kept locked in a metal cupboard or box.
Electrical equipments should be inspected regularly for worn or frayed flexes and damaged
plugs.
Aerosol containers should be stored away from heat and disposed off with care (not incinerated)
Cleaning materials should be stored well and the store kept clean, tidy, well ventilated and
locked when not in use.
Staff should be well instructed on any new equipment they are issued.
All staff should know the whereabouts of the nearest first aid box
Every first aid box should be well supplied with waterproof adhesive tape, scissors, safety pins,
antiseptic cream, eye bath, pain killers, cotton wool, gauze and roller bandage.

Dryer
Your clothes dryer looks safe enough but it can turn into a real killer if you do not watch out.
Whether electric or gas, dryers collect lint, which is highly combustible. Lint buildup--on the
inside of the exhaust pipe, where the pipe connects at the back of the dryer and outside at the
vent--also reduces air flow and the drying efficiency of the appliance. Preventing disaster
though is easy.
A simple check out and cleaning of your dryer can often make it safe to use. The first area to
clean is the lint trap. It should be cleaned after every load. Peel lint from the screen and wipe the
edges and the trap drawer with a damp cloth. A shop vacuum is handy for sucking out any lint
stuck inside the trap drawer.
Next, unplug the dryer. Check the back, where the exhaust pipe connects to the appliance. The
pipe is held in place by a clip or a steel clamp that can be loosened by pliers or a screwdriver.
After removing the pipe, reach inside the dryer opening to remove as much lint as possible.
Again, use a damp cloth to wipe away lint.

Clean the inside of the exhaust pipe, too. Reach in to wipe away any buildup. Replace the
exhaust pipe if it is made of vinyl or foil. Building codes usually prohibit vinyl and foil exhaust
pipes, which can ignite and cause fires. Instead, use flexible metal pipe, which includes snap-
lock fittings, and comes in a variety of lengths.
Flexible metal is more durable, too, so it won't puncture or rip. Don't allow dryer exhaust to vent
inside your home or attic; dryer exhaust contains too much humid air and can cause problems
with mold and mildew.
Also, don't store flammable materials--paints, solvents, household cleaners and paper--near your
dryer. Some liquids can emit vapors that can ignite.
Further, clean the exterior vent which might entail using a step ladder because some dryers vent
upward from ground-level floors. The cleaning process is similar to the interior, except you
might need a screwdriver or scraper blade to hold the vent flap open. Wipe away as much lint
buildup as possible. A shop vacuum can be used to suck out any excess lint.
And, remove lint and visually inspect the exhaust pipe at least once a year, more often if you use
your dryer twice weekly.

General Laundry Safety

Wherever you install your washer and dryer - whether it's in the basement or another room -
make sure you install a smoke alarm as well. Like all major appliances, your washer and dryer
should be properly grounded. Ensure you have the proper sized fuse or breaker switch installed.
Washing means water, of course, and if not already in place, you should install an outlet with a
ground fault circuit interrupter.
If your laundry room shares the basement with the furnace, avoid hanging clothes, or storing
laundry products, such as bleach near the furnace where they can create fire. Water, electrical
appliances, tight spaces are all present dangers to children, so make the laundry room off limits
as a play area. Also, the iron should also be kept out of reach of children - young tots can pull on
the cord and pull a heavy iron down on themselves causing injury. When finished ironing,
unplug the iron, and never leave a hot iron unattended.
And, watch your step while carrying laundry, especially if you have to take the stairs. It's better
to take two small loads so you can see where you're going over the top of the laundry basket and
avoid tripping. It's also not a good idea to locate the laundry hamper or basket on the stairs.

LAUNDRY TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

a) Washing equipment

Washing machines
This is a real necessity where a lot of washing is done to save time and energy. There are
different types in the market, ranging from simple washers to fully automatic ones. The cleaning
action is either by agitation or pulsator.
The machines are either top loading or continuous batch machines.

There are a variety of sizes in the market ranging from 45kg to 450kg for industrial machines.
Laundry sinks
This should be located at a height that allows worker to work with the back straight.
They should not be too deep as this leads to waste of water and detergent.

Basins
These are used for hand washing of clothes and articles. They should be large enough to hold the
washing water.
Buckets
These are used to store/hold washing water.

b) Drying equipment

Spin drier
It is an equipment used to extract water from articles. It is very gentle to fabrics and extracts
about 50% of moisture from articles.
The machine stops quickly and automatically where the lid is opened.

Tumble dryer
This is used to dry the articles completely. It has three heat settings – low, medium and high. The
choice of right timing is very important to completely dry the articles. The machine consists of a
perforated drum through which hot air blows to dry the articles.

Pegs
These are used to hold articles on the line firmly to prevent them from being blown by the wind

Clothes line
Clothes are hang outdoors on the line to dry. There are different types of materials used to make
clothe lines. It includes metal, nylon and sisal.
c) Finishing equipment
These include:

Calenders
This is a device used to finish flat articles. It is a real necessity in large establishments where a
lot of flat articles are handled. There are two types of calenders;
the bed ironer
the roller ironer

Steam presses/Foamers
These are used to finish dust coats and uniforms. They make use of heated steam which is blown
to remove creases.

Irons
These are used for finishing items with details. These are two types of electric irons in the
market:
Dry iron
Steam iron
Both are thermostatically controlled

Folding Machines
This machine does not actually fold the laundry, but holds one end of the item to be folded so
that he staff can fold it more easily.

Factors to consider in the selection of laundry tools and equipment

1.Possible savings on energy and power

Another consideration to keep in mind when it comes to front loading machines is that in most
specimen these appliances are far more energy efficient than their upright machines.
2. Features/Benefits
A decision can be made on a specific model after considering their features and price. The
energy saving is a major advantage because it translates to huge savings on cost over time. Also,
front loading washing machines are preferred not only because of the power savings but because
it uses only 60% of water consumption compared to the older models. Thus, people will be
happy to realize a great keep on energy bills after their research.
3. Popular brands/models
4. Budget.
You need to keep in mind that there are varieties of these types of equipment in a wide spectrum
of prices.
Initial cost, running, maintenance and depreciation should be considered.

5. Size

6. Portability

Use, care and maintenance of laundry tools and equipment

1. Wash, rinse and dry the equipment and tools thoroughly after use.
2. Use the tools and equipment for the correct purpose.
3. Service the equipment regularly.
4. Plastic tools and equipments should be stored away from heat and direct sunlight.
5. Metal tools and equipment should be stored in a dry place to avoid rusting.

LAUNDRY AGENTS
Types of laundry agents

Water
The contents of water are determined by their source. Rain water is soft if collected directly
before passing through rocks and soil collecting minerals that harden it. Water is the simplest
cleaning agent and some form of dirt will be dissolved by it.
Water can be classified into hard and soft water. Soft water is the best for laundry work because
it lathers easily and does not stain articles
Temporary hardness can be removed by boiling or use of chemicals like borax, ammonia or
washing soda.
Permanent hardness can be removed by addition of washing soda or commercial agents like
Calgan

Detergents
These are substances used with water for easy removal of dirt. They enhance the wetting of
clothes and improve the emulsification of grease and other dirt by holding it in suspension so that
it is not re-deposited back into the fabric.
Detergents can be classified into two groups - soaps and soapless detergents.

Soaps
These are made from animal fat or vegetable oil and an alkaline substance such as strong caustic
soda, water and salt .They can come in form of powder, flakes ,cake bar or liquid.

Soapless detergents
These are synthetic soaps or syndets. They are manufactured from chemical substances and
certain ingredients added during the manufacture to improve the performance. They are available
in form of powder and liquid.

General properties
should have good wetting power to lower the surface tension of water
good emulsifying power to break up grease
good suspending power to prevent re-deposition of the soiling
must be soluble in cold water
should be effective in hard water
should be economical in use
should rinse easily without leaving streaks or scum
should be harmless to the user and fabric

Bleaches
They are either natural or chemical substances used on an article to improve their colour, remove
stains and disinfect. These are the most damaging of all laundry agents hence careful use in
laundry is very important. There are two categories;
oxidizing bleaches
reducing bleaches

Fabric conditioners
These have special agents which adhere to the surface of clothes and articles with the following
advantages
they help to revitalize fabrics
They give fabrics a softer feel
They reduce the amount of creasing on fabrics
They reduce the electrostatic effect generated by synthetic fabrics
They give fabrics a softer feel
They have a sanitizing effect on baby wear
They are added in the last rinsing water.

Laundry Starch
This is a laundry agent made from natural or synthetic material. They are available in the market
in powder, liquid, and spray form. It is used to;
Improve the appearance of fabrics
Restore natural stiffness of fabrics
Stiffens fabrics
Gives a glossy finish which prevents the fabric from catching dirt easily

Laundry Blue
Blue is a solid powder produced in form of a cube, block or liquid form. It is mixed with cold
water to form a light blue colour and stirred continuously because if left to stand, the blue settles
in the water.
It is used for white cottons, linen and silk fabrics to improve the colour of the fabrics. It has also
qualities that help to hide unpleasant discoloration, but if used too much, will leave a blue stain.
Blue is always used in the final rinse.

Unit task 3: Properties of laundry agents

Unit Task 4: Selection of laundry agents

Unit Task 5: Preparation, use and storage of laundry agents

Preparation of boiling water starch

Requirements
1 heaped teaspoonful of starch powder.
2 teaspoonfuls of cold water.
½ Litre boiling water.

Method:
1. Measure starch in a bowl.
2. Add cold water to the starch and mix with a wooden spoon or a smooth stick till smooth.
3. Add boiling water while stirring all the time to prevent lumps forming.
If there is no appropriate measure for 1/2litre available just pour the boiling water slowly
while stirring until the water changes. The colour change is an indication that the starch grains
are cooked and the solution thickened in the process.
Starch grains absorb moisture to start with, then swell and on coming into contact
with the heat, they burst open thus letting out the granules which mix with water and
consequently form a thick solution.
This process is called gelatinization of starch. In making boiling water starch therefore the water
must be boiling and not just hot to ensure that the starch grains are properly cooked.
4. The solution obtained after the addition of boiling water is referred to as full strength
starch. This too strong and is not suitable for stiffening any article. It requires some
degree of dilution to obtain a suitable strength. Therefore measure this starch solution
using any container and mark the level. Pour into a large bowl or basin.
5. Add the same amount of warm water as the starch solution to dilute. This is referred to 1:1
strength i.e. one part of starch to an equal part of water. To make 1:2 strength add the same as
original amount of water again to the solution. Continue with this method of diluting until the
required strength is obtained which depends on the article being stiffened.
If the starch is not to be used immediately, leave it covered in 1:1 strength.

A guide to the use of boiling water starch.

1 part starch to 1 part water (1:1 strength) – too strong for use
1:2 strength – articles made of thin fabrics required very stiff but this strength is hardly used
1:3 strength – articles required very stiff e.g. table mats, aprons, overalls, etc
1:4-5 strength – table linen e.g. napkins, tablecloths, tray cloths, chair backs, etc
1:6-7 strength – curtains
1:8 strength – bed linen and personal garments

Note
The above strengths may be varied depending on the stiffness required, the type and use
of the article to be stiffened. Starch first the articles required to be very stiff, and then continue to
dilute as necessary. Remember however that after each article has been immersed into the
solution, the starch becomes weaker and therefore the amount of water used towards the end may
be reduced. After immersing the article in the starch solution, squeeze the starch into the fabric to
ensure even distribution. Then wring the article out and dry in the normal manner

Cold water starch

This is often referred to as instant starch and is used for articles required to be very stiff, e.g.
belts, caps and very thin muslin articles. It is also suitable for men’s collars and cuffs.

Requirements
2 Tablespoons starch (preferably rice starch)
½ teaspoon borax
1 tablespoon boiling water
½ litre cold water

Method
Measure the starch and put in the bowl
Dissolve the borax in the boiling water then mix with starch. Stir to mix.
Add cold water to the starch, stir well, cover and leave for at least 30 minutes to enable the starch
grains to soften.
Stir well before use and then immerse the article and squeeze starch into the mesh of the fabric.
Remove and squeeze out the starch. Rub lightly with a cloth to remove starch grains from the
surface of the fabric. Thicker fabrics may be rolled in a cloth for a few minutes before ironing.
Iron immediately with a hot clean iron, applying even pressure all through. The heat bursts the
already swollen starch grains and immediately sets it into the fabric. The articles become very
stiff and feel like paper.

Preparation and use of laundry blue

Make blue solution in a white enamel or plastic container which will show the true colour of the
solution.
Tie the block of powdered blue in a piece of clean white cloth or blue bag before putting it into
the water to prevent sediment in the solution.
Squeeze the blue in water until it is pale blue in colour.
Test a small piece of white cloth in the solution before using it in the garment.
Rinse garments one at a time; open out the garment, immerse it into the water and see that it is
evenly blued.
Turn out pockets so that blue does not settle in folds or seams
Squeeze out as much moisture as possible
Stir the solution well before putting another garment in.
To get good results, hang white fabrics out in bright sunshine.

Note
Never rinse coloured garments in blue.
If accidentally is badly blued or over-blued, rinse it in water to which you can also add colourless
vinegar.

FIBRES AND FABRICS

Definition of Terms
Fibre
This is a slender and greatly elongated substance capable of being spun into yarn
It can also be defined as a natural or synthetic filament that may be spun into yarn, such as cotton
or nylon.
A textile is a flexible material consisting of a network of natural or artificial fibres often referred
to as thread or yarn. Yarn is produced by spinning raw wool fibres, linen, cotton, or other
material on a spinning wheel to produce long strands.
Textiles are formed by weaving, knitting, crocheting, knotting, or pressing fibres together (felt).
The words fabric and cloth are used in textile assembly trades (such as tailoring and
dressmaking) as synonyms for textile. However, there are subtle differences in these terms in
specialized usage. Textile refers to any material made of interlacing fibres. Fabric refers to any
material made through weaving, knitting, crocheting, or bonding. Cloth refers to a finished piece
of fabric that can be used for a purpose such as covering a bed.

Classification of textile fibres

Natural Fibre.
a) Vegetable Origin:
Bast Fibres like Jute, Flax, Hemp, Kenaf, Sunn, Urena, and Nettle.
Seed & Fruit fibres like Coir, Cotton.
Leaf Fibres like Sisal, Manila.

b) Animal Origin:
Wool and Hair Fibres,
Silk and other filaments.
c) Mineral Origin:
Asbestos

2. Man-made Fibre/ Chemical Fibre/ Artificial Fibre:

a) Natural Polymer Based.

Cellulose
Cellulose Ester
Protein
Miscellaneous.

b) Synthetic Polymer Based.

Polyamides
Polyesters fibres
Polyolefins
Poly-urethanes
Polyvinyl Derivatives like Poly-acrylonitrile (PAN), Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC), Polyvinylidence
Chloride

Properties of textile fibres

Properties of silk fibres

Silk fibers are smooth, translucent, rod-like filaments with occasional swellings along their
length. The raw silk fiber actually consists of two filaments called fibroin bound by a soluble silk
gum called sericin. Fibroin and sericin are made up of carbon, hydrogen, nitrogen, and oxygen.

Silk has several important qualities:

(1) It is lower in density than wool, cotton, or rayon.
(2) It is a poor conductor of heat and electricity.
(3) It is capable of soaking up to 30% of its weight in moisture.
(4) It is extremely strong, with a breaking strength as high as 65,000 psi.
(5) It will stretch to as much as 20% of its length without breaking.
(6) It is thermally stable; it is able to withstand temperatures as high as 284°F (140°C). (7) It
becomes smooth, lustrous, and luxurious when processed.
(8) It is remarkably resilient, and shows excellent wrinkle recovery.

Properties of cotton fibres

Cotton, as a natural cellulosic fiber, has a lot of characteristics, such as;

Comfortable Soft feel

It readily absorbs moisture which makes it suitable for clothing
Absorbs dyes readily and will take a variety of special finishes
It is not damaged by alkalis
Machine-washable
Dry-cleanable
Stronger when wet than when dry
It is very hard wearing (durable)even in its finest form.
Cotton fibres have little resilience therefore fabrics made from them tends to crease badly
Drapes well
Easy to handle and sew
If stored while damp, it is easily attacked by mildew
It shrinks, unless it has been sanforised
It rots due to long exposure to sunlight
It is a good conductor of heat

Production of cotton:
When cotton arrives at a textile mill, several blenders feed cotton into cleaning machines, which
mix the cotton, break it into smaller pieces and remove trash. The cotton is sucked through a pipe
into picking machines. Beaters in these machines strike the cotton repeatedly to knock out dirt
and separate lumps of cotton into smaller pieces.
Cotton then goes to the carding machine, where the fibers are separated.
Trash and short fibers are removed. Some cotton goes through a
comber that removes more short fibers and makes a stronger, more
lustrous yarn.
This is followed by spinning processes which do three jobs: draft the
cotton, or reduce it to smaller structures, straighten and parallel the
fibers and lastly, put twist into the yarn. The yarns are then made into
cloth by weaving, knitting or other processes.
After inspectors check the cloth, it is passed through a gas flame that
singes the fuzz off its surface. Boiling the cloth in an alkaline solution
removes natural waxes, coloured substances or discolorations. Then the
cloth is bleached in hypochlorite or peroxide. The cloth may then pass
through a machine that prints designs on it. Cloth intended to be solid-coloured goes through a
dye bath.

End Uses of Cotton:

Apparel - Wide range of wearing apparel: blouses, shirts, dresses, children’s wear, active wear,
swimwear, suits, jackets, skirts, pants, sweaters, hosiery, neckwear.
Home Fashion - curtains, draperies, bedspreads, comforters, sheets, towels, table cloths, table
mats, napkins

Linen fabric characteristics

Linen is one of the oldest textiles sorts in the world which is produced from linen fiber. Linen is
an annual and perennial grasses and sub-shrubs; the stem is vertical up to 150 cm. Linen is
stronger and more glossy than cotton.
The linen fabric does not turn yellowish, it becomes whiter and gentler after time.
Linen fibre goes damp and dry very soon, that is why the fabric warms during cold night and
cools the body during hot midday.
Linen fibres are firm
The fibres are lustrous
Linen is strong – it is three times stronger than cotton fabrics.
Linen fabrics are five times more resistant to rubbing than cotton fabrics.
Linen fabrics absorb dampness and sweat better than cotton fabrics.
Acids and alkalis affect linen as they do cotton
Over-bleaching weakens the fibre
It takes dyes readily
It has low resiliency and therefore creases readily unless treated
Under damp conditions, it is easily attacked by mildew
It is a good conductor of heat
It is absorbent
It is a durable fabric

Wool
Woolen fabric is made from the fleece of sheep.
There are 40 different breeds of sheep in the world producing a rough estimate of 200 types of
wool with varying standards. The major wool producers in the world are Australia, Argentina,
China and South Africa.

Production of Wool:
The processing of wool involves four major steps.
First comes shearing, followed by sorting and grading, making yarn and lastly, making fabric. In
most parts of the world, sheep are sheared once a year, in early spring or early summer. The best
wool comes from the shoulders and sides of the sheep.
This is followed by grading and sorting, where workers remove any stained, damaged or inferior
wool from each fleece and sort the rest of the wool according to the quality of the fibers. Wool
fibers are judged not only on the basis of their strength but also by their fineness (diameter),
length, crimp (waviness) and colour.
The wool is then scoured with detergents to remove the yolk and such impurities as sand and
dust.
After the wool dries, it is carded. The carding process involves passing the wool through rollers
that have thin wire teeth. The teeth untangle the fibers and arrange them into a flat sheet called a
web. The web is then formed into narrow ropes known as silvers.

After carding, the processes used in making yarn vary slightly, depending on the length of the
fibers. Carding length fibers are used to make woolen yarn. Combing length fibers and French
combing length fibers are made into worsted yarn.
- Woolen yarn, which feels soft, has a fuzzy surface and is heavier than worsted. While worsted
wool is lighter and highly twisted, it is also smoother, and is not as bulky, thus making it easier
to carry or transport about.
- Making worsted wool requires a greater number of processes, during which the fibers are
arranged parallel to each other. The smoother the hard-surface worsted yarns, the smoother the
wool it produces, meaning, less fuzziness. Fine worsted wool can be used in the making of
athletics attire, because it is not as hot as polyester, and the weave of the fabric allows wool to
absorb perspiration, allowing the body to "breathe".

Properties of the wool:

1. It is a bad conductor of heat, therefore can maintain body temperature.
2. The fibres have an inner part or core enclosed in an outer skin which is made up of
several irregular overlapping scales. These are capable of holding pockets of air in
them which act as insulators. They also give the fibre a natural crimp.
3. It is water-repellant, owing to the natural oil in the fibre.
4. The elasticity and resilience of the fibres make the finished cloth naturally crease
resistant.
5. Wool is non-inflammable. Therefore it is a safe material for children wear.
6. When wet, the fibres become soft and will easily stretch if not carefully handled.
7. Shrinkage is brought about by extremes of temperature, rubbing when wet and by the
use of alkalis.
8. Wool is attacked by moths and insects unless it has been treated.
9. It can also be attacked by mildew, if kept moist and damp.
10.Wool does not wrinkle easily.

Uses:
Wool is used to make sweaters, dresses, coats, suits, jackets, pants and the lining of boots. It can
also be made into blankets and carpets.

Silk
Silk is the fine strong soft lustrous fiber produced by silkworms.

Production of silk:
Silkworms are cultivated and fed with mulberry leaves. Some of these eggs are hatched by
artificial means such as an incubator.
Silkworms that feed on smaller, domestic tree leaves produce the finer silk, while the coarser silk
is produced by silkworms that have fed on oak leaves.
From the time they hatch to the time they start to spin cocoons, they are very carefully tended to.
Noise is believed to affect the process, thus the cultivators try not to startle the silkworms.
Their cocoons are spun from the tops of loose straw. It will be completed in two to three days'
time. The cultivators then gather the cocoons and the chrysalis are killed by heating and drying
the cocoons.
Properties of silk:
1. It is very lustrous – has a luxurious appearance
2. It is warm
3. It drapes well
4. It is soft to handle and slippery
5. It is very strong
6. It is very elastic
7. It absorbs moisture.
8. It is resistant to mildew
9. It is resistant to moth attacks
10. It does not felt
11. It is damaged by long exposure to sunlight
12. It is not resistant to high temperatures

Uses:
Silk is used to make blouses, dresses, scarves, pants and ties. It can also be made into curtains,
draperies, cushion covers and sofa covers.

Polyester
Polyester is the general name for any group of widely used synthetic products. Polyesters are
strong, tough materials that are manufactured in a variety of colours, shapes and sizes.
Production of polyester:
Polyesters are made from chemical substances found mainly in petroleum. Polyesters are
manufactured in three basic forms - fibers, films and plastics.
Polyester fibers are used to make fabrics. Poly (ethylene terephthalate, or simply PET) is the
most common polyester used for fiber purposes. This is the polymer used for making soft drink
bottles.

Properties of the polyester:

1. It is strong, tough and wears well.
2. It is strong both when wet and when dry.
3. It resists bleaches and alkalis.
4. It is not absorbent.
5. It is thermoplastic and can be permanently pleated.
6. It is flame- resistant
7. It is resists wrinkling.
8. It can be dry-cleaned safely.
9. It is not attacked by moths, mildew, fungi or bacteria.
10. It is not harmed by sunlight, and is therefore suitable for curtains.
11. It resists abrasion.
12. It is not easy to dye unless special methods are used.
13. It is resistant to stretching and shrinking.

Uses:
Polyester is used to make most forms of clothing like shirts, running shorts, track pants,
windbreakers, and lingerie. It can also be made into curtains and draperies.

Nylon
Nylon is a strong, light synthetic fiber. It is a man-made.

Production of nylon:
Nylon is made by forcing molten nylon through very small holes in a device called a spinneret.
The streams of nylon harden into filament once they come in contact with air. They are then
wound onto bobbins. These fibers are drawn (stretched) after they cool.
Drawing involves unwinding the yarn or filaments and then winding it around another spool.
Drawing makes the molecules in each filament fall into parallel lines. This gives the nylon fiber
strength and elasticity.
After the whole drawing process, the yarn may be twisted a few turns per yard or metres as it is
wound onto spools. Further treatment to it can give it a different texture or bulk.

Properties of the nylon:

1. It is strong and elastic.
2. It is easy to launder.
3. It dries quickly because it is not absorbent.
4. It retains its shape – it neither shrinks nor stretches.
5. It is resilient and responsive to heat setting. It can therefore be permanently pleated
6. It is resistant to abrasion
7. When rubbed, nylon materials acquire static electricity
8. It rots due to long exposure to sunlight.
9. It is crease resistant therefore requires little ironing
10. It can be dry-cleaned safely with benzene and carbon tetrachloride
11. It is not affected by acids and alkalis, but bleaches can harm it.

Uses:
Nylon is popular for hosiery and is used to make track pants, shorts, swimwear, active wear,
windbreakers, bedspread and draperies. It can also be made into parachutes, flak vests, combat
uniforms, tires and life vests, or used as the netting of bridal veils, umbrellas and luggage.

Regenerated Fibres
Regenerated fibres are produced from raw materials that form fibres naturally, for example wood
pulp or cotton linter. These raw materials are reformed to produce fibres or filaments suitable for
making into yarns. The first commercial regenerated synthetic fibre was rayon, also known as
‘artificial silk’, and was made from modified cellulose / wood pulp, later known as viscose.
Acetate is a regenerated fibre made from cotton linters (very short cotton fibres) combined with
acetic acid.

Characteristics of Rayon
Rayon’s cellulosic base contributes many properties similar to those of cotton or other natural
cellulosic fibers.
Rayon is moisture absorbent (more so than cotton), breathable, comfortable to wear, and easily
dyed in vivid colors.
It does not build up static electricity, nor will it pill unless the fabric is made from short, low-
twist yarns.
Rayon is comfortable, soft to the skin, and has moderate dry strength and abrasion resistance.
Like other cellulosic fibers, it is not resilient, which means that it will wrinkle.
Rayon withstands ironing temperatures slightly less than those of cotton.
It may be attacked by silverfish and termites, but generally resists insect damage.
It is attacked by mildew
One of rayon’s strengths is its versatility and ability to blend easily with many fibers—
sometimes to reduce cost, other times for lustre, softness, or absorbency and resulting comfort.
Rayons readily take finishes such as mercerization, Sanforization (shrink resistance), and
permanent press.
Rayon has moderate resistance to acids and alkalis and generally the fiber itself is not damaged
by bleaches; however, dyes used in the fabric may experience color change.
As a cellulosic fiber, rayon will burn, but flame retardant finishes can be applied.

Fabric construction methods

Fabric may be constructed by three basics methods: knitting, weaving, and the interlocking of
fibers by felting or bonding. Lacemaking and netting are two less frequently used methods of
producing cloth.

Knitted Fabrics
Knitted fabrics are made from one continuous thread. Knitting consists of rows of interlocking
loops done by hand or machine. Knit fabrics are comfortable and wrinkle-resistant, but they
snag. They give or stretch as you wear them. They must be stretched as you sew them so they
keep this "give."

Woven Fabrics
Weaving is the interlacing of yarns to form fabrics.

There are some terms which are frequently used in weaving. These include:
Selvedge: When you examine a fabric, you see two long finished edges, one on
each side along the length of the fabric. These edges are called selvedge and give
strength to the edges which is important in further processing of the fabric.
Warp: They are the yarns along the length of the fabrics or parallel to the selvedge.
They are also called ends.
Weft: When you see a woven fabric, besides warps, another set of yarns move
perpendicular to warps. They are called wefts. They are interlaced with warps in
a crosswise direction to make a fabric. They are also called picks or fillings.
Thread Count: You must have noticed that some woven fabrics look dense and
compact whereas others open. This difference is due to the thread count which
refers to the total number of warps and wefts per square inch of a woven fabric.
Thread count tells us about the fabric quality and durability. Fabric with a higher
thread count is better than fabric with lower thread count. Also, for good quality
fabric, warps and wefts should be more or less equal in number.

Process of Weaving
The weaving process is carried out on a loom. Warp yarns are laid parallel and very close to each
other. Then, with hands or some other device some warps are lifted and others remain as such
and the weft on a shuttle is then passed through them to complete the interlacement. For example
alternate warps could be lifted to get a plain weave fabric. To make the weave compact, the
wefts are beaten with a comb like device called reed.

There are several weaves of fabric.

The plain weave is the most basic of all weaves, with one weft yarn going over and under one
warp yarn. Many fabrics are produced in the plain weave. These weaves have no right and wrong
side unless they are printed.

Characteristics of the plain weave

It has more warps than wefts per inch.
It has no right or wrong side unless if printed.
It is compact and feels firm unless if loosely woven.
It is cool to touch.

The hopsack weave is a variation of the plain weave where two weft yarns pass over and under
to warps, producing a firmer cloth.

The twill weave is made by passing thread over one or more warp threads and then under a group
of weft, skipping or stepping one yarn in between to the right. This gives a definite diagonal
ridge across the fabric.

Characteristics of the twill weave

It has diagonal ridges that run from the left to the right and are more prominent on one side.
It has a right and wrong side.
It is compact, firm and durable.
It is warm.
It is decorative.

The satin/sateen weave is made by floating several warp or weft threads over the surface of the
fabric under one.

Characteristics of the satin/sateen weave

The warp floats in satin, while the weft floats in sateen
Filament yarns are used in both, hence both are lustrous and have a soft feel.
They have a luxurious appearance.
They are smooth and do not get dirty easily.
They are not very strong as the floating threads can easily be pulled out, thus damaging the
appearance of the fabric.
Nonwoven Fabrics
These type fabrics are formed when heat, moisture, and pressure are applied to fibers, forcing
them to interlock. Sometimes chemicals are used to maintain this process. Many interfacings,
fleece, and felt are examples of this process

Bonded fabrics
These are made up of two separate cloths, namely a face fabric and a lining, held together with
an adhesive.
Fabrics made by this method are used for various purposes e.g. interlining materials, surgical
goods, etc

Nets
They are open-mesh fabrics with geometrical shapes. These yarns may be knotted at the point of
intersection.

Laces
Yarns are criss-crossed to create intricate designs. Yarns may be interloped, interlaced or knotted
to give open-mesh structure. Beautiful decorative designs can be created through lace making.
Laces are very important trimmings that are used to decorate a garment.

Fabric Finishes

A fabric finish is a treatment that changes fabric behavior and appearance. The finish may be
temporary or permanent.

Regular or basic finishes (such as napping, brushing, shearing, or calendaring) make fabric
suitable to sell.
Functional or special finishes contribute a special feature to the fabric. Permanent press, stain
resistance, and water repellency are functional finishes.

Remember the following points about finishes when selecting fabrics:

Finishes may be applied for beauty or service.
Finishes may be durable or nondurable.
Each finish means added cost.
Proper care prolongs finish life.
Procedure of laundering fabrics

Care of your cotton garment:

For fabrics made of 100% cotton:

1) Set your washing machine to the low setting.
2) Wash the cloth in cold water.
3) Set your iron to Medium to iron it.
4) Do not bleach the cloth.
5) Hang to dry but do not tumble dry.

50% Cotton and 50% Polyester:

1) Turn it inside out and machine wash with warm water.
2) Wash with fabrics that are of light colours.
3) Use only non-chlorine bleach to bleach the cloth.
4) Tumble dry with a medium setting.
5) Set your iron to medium for ironing.

Linen
Washing is recommended because the more linen is washed, the softer, more absorbent and more
luminous it becomes. One can use either hand or machine washing, but observe the following
points:
Be gentle when laundering linen: use a gentle wash cycle or hand-wash and use just a little
gentle soap. Whatever you use, follow the package directions. Place delicate, embroidered or
fringed linens in a lingerie bag before putting them into a washing machine.
Use cool to warm, not hot, water. Wash colored linens in cool water. Soft water is important
because hard water forms a soap scum that make linen stiff and dull.
Launder stains when fresh. If allowed to set, stains may be permanent.
Use oxygen bleaches (hydrogen peroxide) for white linen. Chlorine bleaches can cause
yellowing.
If hand washing, rinse very thoroughly. Removal of all soap will help prevent large brown spots
on linen, which are caused by oxidation of cellulose by residual soap.

Drying
Several drying methods are recommended for linen
Line drying,
Machine drying ,
Rolling in terry towels
Whatever method you use, bring the linen in while it is still damp. If linen dries thoroughly, it
may become brittle, taking several hours to recover its natural moisture and flexibility. Don't
wring wet or damp linen before drying, it breaks the fibers.

Rejuvenating
Linen is more difficult to dye than other fibers, especially in dark shades. We have found that
you can renew the color and sheen of black linen by washing black linen with a good dose of
fabric bluing (normally used to brighten white cottons) in the rinse water. Then give it a final
rinse in clear water before drying. You can still find bluing in the laundry detergent section at
many grocery and dime stores.

Ironing
Ironing is often optional when dried flat or tumbled at low heat. Ironing linen is a great deal
easier if you do it when the linen is damp. And if linen is removed from drying while still damp
and ironed immediately, it is easier still. Steam ironing dry linen is less effective and requires
more effort
Use spray starch (if desired) and iron with lots of steam at a medium-to-hot setting. Starch
provides extra crispness, particularly for folded napkins.
Iron on the wrong side first, then on the right side to bring out the sheen, especially damasks and
light-colored linens. Iron dark linens on the wrong side only. Heavier fabrics may need a slightly
higher temperature setting. Pure linen can withstand the highest temperature setting on your iron,
but test an inconspicuous corner first.

Iron linen until smooth but not dry. Once wrinkles are gone, hang the linen item until it is bone
dry.
When ironing embroidered linen, keep the embroidery stitches rounded and dimensional by
pressing item on the wrong side atop a soft towel. Use a press cloth to safeguard delicate lace
and cutwork. A press cloth also helps to avoid press marks over seams, hems and pockets. Place
a table next to the ironing board when ironing large tablecloths. Roll finished sections of the
cloth over the table rather than letting it pile up under the ironing board. Minimize creasing
ironed tablecloths by rolling them around a tube or hanging them.

Storing Linen
Always clean linen items before storing: dirty linen encourages mildew.
Good ventilation, light and lack of available bacterial food discourage mildew growth.
If you discover mildew on your linens, brush the mold off outdoors to avoid scattering spores in
your house. Then soak the linen item in a weak solution of hydrogen peroxide and water before
laundering. Wash as above, dry in the sun, then store in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area.

Care of your woolen garment:

It is better to hand wash your woolen products.
Be careful of what softener you use because softeners may add products to your wool. Some
types of softeners may leave a coating on the fiber making it feel softer and smoother, but at the
same time causing your wool to lose its absorbency.

Care of your silk garment:

It is best to dry clean your silk garment either by individual or bulk method, in order to maintain
the characteristic of the silk.

Dry clean: Sending it to the dry cleaners may be done but make sure that you inform the dry
cleaner that your garment is made of silk.

Hand wash:
1) Make sure you wash in cool water.
2) Use a small amount of soap or mild detergent to wash the silk.
3) After washing it, rinse in cold water.
4) Hang it or lay it flat in a shaded area to dry.
5) If pressing is needed, use an all cotton iron board cover, a low or moderate steam setting, and
press on the wrong side of the fabric while ironing.

Other Tips:
To keep white silk white, add peroxide and ammonia to the wash.
Do not use bleach or any washing detergent with bleach
To remove yellow from white silk, add a few teaspoons of white vinegar to the wash.

Care of polyester:
1) Machine-wash your fabric in cold water.
2) Wash with light colours.
3) Use a gentle cycle while washing.
4) Tumble dry with the setting low.
5) Do not bleach.
6) If needed, iron with a cool iron.

Care of your nylon garment:

1) Machine wash in cold water.
2) Wash it separately from other types of fabric.
3) If needed, use only non-chlorine bleach to bleach your nylon garment.
4) Turn the setting to low before tumbling dry.
5) Remove your nylon garment promptly from the tumbler.

Other Tips:
Extensive washing and drying in an automatic dryer can lead to piling.
White nylon should be washed separately to avoid it turning grey.
To avoid yellowing of your white nylon, you should bleach it frequently with Sodium Perborate
bleach.

Rayon
Consumers should be aware of several cautions in relation to proper use and care of fabrics made
from rayon fiber. Regular or viscose rayon has low wet strength, resulting in loss of stability or
the tendency to shrink or stretch easily when wet. Although resin-treated rayons can sometimes
be hand or machine washed with success, regular rayon normally requires dry cleaning to
maintain appearance and shape.
There is a finish that can be applied to make viscose rayon fabrics washable and limit shrinkage
to 3 percent. It is formaldehyde-free and will not affect the hand, width, or length of treated
fabrics.

Care of Rayon
The critical element in successful care of rayon is the type of fiber.
Regular or viscose rayons usually require dry cleaning for best results
High wet modulus, high wet strength or polynosic rayons, will normally machine wash and
tumble dry satisfactorily
The low wet strength of untreated viscose rayon is likely to cause shrinkage and loss of body if
fabrics made from these fibers are hand or machine washed. Viscose rayons are usually labeled
“dry clean only.”
Since many dyes and finishes applied to viscose rayon are moisture-sensitive, consumers should
protect garments from contact with moisture
Avoid spilling acid or alkali, such as foodstuffs or perfume, as certain dyes used on rayon are
especially sensitive to these substances.
Use caution or avoid treating stained areas with water. Take the garment to a dry cleaner for stain
removal.
When viscose rayons can be hand washed, do so with care.
Always support wet fabrics, since rayon has low wet strength and is unstable when wet.
Avoid wringing moisture from fabrics. Gently squeeze out moisture and roll in a towel.
Smooth and shape, then lay flat to dry.
If the garments are not too heavy when wet, they can be hung on a non-rusting hanger.
When pressing regular rayon garments at home, guard against spitting by steam irons that may
cause water spots. Also, if possible, press on the wrong side or use a press cloth on the right side
to avoid shine or iron imprints.
Use a rayon or synthetic setting on the iron.
When pressing blends, use the iron temperature for the most heat-sensitive fiber. Normally, a
synthetic setting will be satisfactory.

Evaluation questions
1. Enumerate the various methods of fabric making.
2. Discuss how designs can be created by weaving.
3. Compare and contrast weaving and knitting.
4. Why are knitted garments considered appropriate for winter wear?
5. Why is satin weave not as strong as plain or twill weave?
6. Why is twill weave used for your jeans?

LAUNDRY PROCESSES

The Laundry process

The relationship between chemical action, detergents, water, hot and cold, and time taken for the
wash process, affects the final outcome of your wash process.

Mechanical Action the number one factor for cleaning in how-to-do-laundry

1 The First and most important in how-to-do-laundry is Mechanical Action, this could be
physically brushing, beating, squeezing, to remove dirt particles from any desired surface or
object. Any physical method of removing dirt is mechanical action.
In a Front Loading automatic washing machine the mechanical action is created by the drum
rotation. The paddles on the inside of the drum lifts the washing to the top of the drum from
where it falls to the bottom of the drum with a thump.
This creates the squeezing action on the fabrics in the washing machine which removes the dirt
and soiling from the fibres.
These particles and grease globules are then held in the wash water and detergent in solution,
until the drain cycle.
If you were to observe your machine during its program, you would hear a thump as the washing
falls to the bottom of the drum during the cottons wash.
This will be much less evident during a delicates or woollens wash where the mechanical action
is reduced to just movement in the drum, with a high level of wash water and a diluted detergent
mix.
Next time you have your washing machine on a cottons hot wash take a look inside the porthole
to see how much of a squeezing action is taking place and how small the amount of suds in the
drum.how-to-do-laundry, brings you the insider knowledge on everything Laundry & Dish-
washing.
Time Factor, the length of any one process.
2 The second factor in how-to-do-laundry is Time, the longer you beat, sweep or squeeze, the
cleaner the object.
In a modern washing machine "Time" is controlled by either a mechanical clock timer or a
modern micro-processor, which can be updated with the latest programs at any future date,
which also means you always have the latest machine.
In a cottons wash, the time taken to complete the main wash portion of the wash process is
normally ten minutes after reaching the desired temperature chosen on your front panel
temperature selector switch. How-to-do-laundry shows you the way.
Chemical Action the third factor for all cleaning problems in how-to-do-laundry.
3. Chemical Action is the third factor in how-to-do-laundry, this can be adding water, detergents,
solvents etc.,
As in most wash processes with water and detergent, bleach etc.
The chemical action in the modern washing machine removes the soiling and holds it in
suspension until being drained out at the end of the wash and rinse cycles, so that it is not re-
deposited back onto the fabric.
The modern fully built biological detergent has brighteners that are held in the wash water
unused until the temperature goes over 60 degrees Celcius.
So if you use a lot of low temperature programs you may get a build up of unused detergent in
the pipes and pump of your machine.
It is best to use a hot wash on a regular basis to clear out any unused detergents lurking in the
bottom of your machine.
The temperature is the most important element in the disinfecting and killing any nasty
pathogens that may be in the laundry.
This is most important when dealing with foul laundry in the nursery or in hospital and care
operations.
There are now special sluice programs available on commercial machines to deal with this type
of soiling so that everything that is washed is thermal-disinfected at a temperature of at least 65
degrees Celcius held for at least two minutes.
This provides the time to kill most known bacteria and viruses, but in certain circumstances a
boil wash of at least 82 degrees C is required, Hepatitis A & C for example.
This is a specialist subject and the rules differ depending on where in the world you are. how-to-
do-laundry shows the way.
Temperature the final factor for the cleaning process in how-to-do-laundry.
4 Temperature is the final and in some circumstances the most important factor in how to do
laundry,
but they are all dependent on each other.
Where grease or wax soils are concerned a high temperature will be needed to dissolve them so
that they can be held in the detergent solution.
Think of the steam cleaner for degreasing kitchens and kitchen equipment or engines.
High temperatures are required in all medical and care based cleaning operations to kill
pathogens and bacteria.
In clothing, bedding, dressings, instruments, crockery etc., high temperatures will be the order of
the day.
All these four factors in the cleaning process can be represented in a diagrammatic form, which
we call the "Sinners Vector Diagram".
See below.
The length of the line indicates the amount of any one factor in the cleaning process. And if you
need to reduce any one factor and end up with the same cleaning power you will have to increase
one or all of the others to compensate for the reduction.
Always check your laundry wash care labels, for extra guidance go to Wash Care Labels and
Symbols a Quick Guide
Henry the Happy Hippo shows you the Four Factors of the cleaning process at bath time

As you can see Henry is demonstrating all Four of the Factors of the cleaning process, involved
in his bath time ritual.
The Brush is the Mechanical Action, the Water and Soap are the Chemical Action, the
Temperature is the the hot African Sun heating his pool. And finally the Time is how long Henry
the Happy Hippo spends doing his ablutions.
The Sinners Diagram shows how for a hot cottons wash for heavy soiling all lines are of
maximum length.

Cottons, Boil Wash or Heavily Soiled Washing

how-to-do-laundry,
If we think of the wash program for Cottons or heavily soiled, robust fabrics, we will require
Maximum Mechanical Action, with the strongest Chemical solution, for the longest Time, at the
Highest Temperature, say a boil wash for cottons.
All four factors at maximum setting on your washing machine.
All the lines in the Sinners Diagram will be the longest or at their maximum.
This wash may be incorporated into a boil wash for thermal disinfecting foul laundry. More on
this later.
For Bedding, sheets, pillows for men, women, teens, kids and babies as well as bedroom
furniture and decor go to one of our SBI partner sites at ......Bedding sets
Luxury bedding collections dot com
The Front Loading washing machine in how-to-do-laundry brings you the best insider
knowledge.
how-to-do-laundry. In a Front loading washing machine this is easily achieved by bringing in
just enough water to wet the clothes inside the drum and cover the heater elements.
A modern machine will take cold water in first, to release the stains before taking the
temperature up slowly to the high temperature. which could even be a boil wash.
Never put hot water on stained fabrics it will fix many of the stains permanently, especially
blood.
At the end of the main wash cycle cold water should be brought in to reduce the temperature
inside the drum and dilute the detergent liquor.
This will prevent heat shock on the way up and down during the move from wash to rinse cycles.
Frequently when you look inside your washing machine porthole during the main wash cycle of
your machine you wil notice how little water is in the machine.
This means a strong chemical liquor of low suds detergent at high temperature.
The drop height from the top of the drum to the floor is maximum to provide the maximum
mechanical action.
Because a small amount of water is used, it is cheaper to heat to the high temperatures required
than perhaps using a high water level delicates program on its highest temperature selection.
This type of program if provided by a high quality machine will be very efficient and
ecologically sound, as all the energy, water, and chemicals are kept to a minimum.
There is no better way of dealing with heavily soiled items than in a modern, front loading, high
spin, washing machine.
A top loading washing machine has to be filled with water for all types of wash process, so for a
hot wash with high detergent mix this would be very expensive to run, and would normally cost
in the region of five times the cost per wash.
Which is why the top loader machine encourages the use of low temperature detergents, warm
washes, and the use of stain removers and pre-treatments, with biological detergents.
The Top Loader has a fraction of the control over the wash process that is built into the modern
front loading machine.
It is not safe to put woollens or delicates in a top loading washing machine as the mechanical
action is too vigorous and would damage the fabric with shrinkage and felting. Go to my
Woollen wash page now for a quick guide In how-to-do-laundry and Laundry and dish-washing
info, I hope we bring you useful stuff to help your understanding of the cleaning process you
may wish to have a quick look at my Washing Silk page It will give you a quick run down on the
criteria for washing silks and delicates in some detail.
The Front Loading washing machine on a Woollens or Delicates Program

How to do Laundry the Woollens and Delicates program

how-to-do-laundry, for woollens.
For a woollens and a delicate wash, all that has to be done to the wash program in the machine to
accommodate the non iron, synthetic, delicate, and woollen materials is to increase the level of
the wash water in the tank incrementally, so that the water is cooler, the chemicals are diluted,
and the drop from top of the drum to the bottom is reduced, which ensures the mechanical action
is reduced.
At the same time the rotation of the drum is also slowed and shortened until a wool wash agitates
for 2.5 seconds and rests for 28 seconds for a 5 minute main wash.
This means you can safely place your favourite cashmere and lambswool sweaters in the wool
wash program of your modern front loading washing machine with complete confidence.

Care Labels
To help you understand the reason for wash care symbols and labels you have to understand how
the wash process works and what to expect from your washing machine. It's worth taking the
extra time to read this page through to understand how the wash care labels work.
Or you can go straight to the symbols explanation below.
I hope it helps if you have questions or comments please make contact using contacts page.
The fundamentals of cleaning.
Sorting the clothes.
Laundry-Symbols aims to bring you all the information on wash care labels and symbols in most
common use.
What ever you need to know about Laundry-Symbols, Wash, care, Label, Detergent, cleaning,
program, pre-spotting, solvents,stain remover, here at Laundry-Symbols I will bring you the
answers.
You will understand them and be able to match them to the cleaning process best suited to the
fabrics and dyes in your garments or soft funishings.
All clothes and items to be washed should be sorted into like products and colours.
White cottons heavily soiled items which will require the hottest wash with the most mechanical
action should be collected and placed in the washing machine with enough space left in the drum
to allow for the maximum drop from top to bottom of the drum.
If they are not too bulky they will settle when water is brought in to the machine which will give
them extra space to get the mechanical action they require.
Heavily soiled items may be improved by pre-spotting with a proprietary stain remover for the
particular type of soiling.
Coloured items or dark fabrics should be washed separately, and depending on the type of fibres
and soiling should be washed as cottons, non-iron, delicates, after checking on the wash care
label.
Wash items with similar labels together after separating them.
Pre Spotting
Laundry-Symbols
Heavily soiled items may be improved by pre-spotting with a proprietary stain remover for the
particular type of soiling.
Pre-spotting can be as simple as brushing caked mud or spraying a solution of detergent and
water to help the wash process.
By brushing and spraying the liquid into the stain before the wash process the detergents can
start softening the soiling so that it can be removed and floated off during the wash process in the
machine.
Where there are stains of blood, ink with a wax base, tar oil from the beach or garage and paint
you will require a spotter containing a solvent, these can be purchased and kept in the cupboard
ready for the day that you need them.
Grass stains are one common stain which will be removed more easily in the wash if it has been
pre-spotted with a light brushing to get the softening process started.
With blood always try to wash out with cold water before it dries hard, dried on blood is quite
difficult to remove and may leave a rust mark after washing which will be fixed permanently by
the hot water in the wash.
Always Check your Laundry-Symbols for the correct program.
If you have some knowledge or expertise you would like to share with the world wide web that
would help someone, click on the link and take a look at how easy it is with site build it and all
their free books to download, Share my knowledge with the web the easy way.
If in doubt always use your Pre-wash selector button on your machine.
Laundry-Symbols If you are in any doubt about a stain always use your pre-wash button on your
machine. Always check your Laundry-Symbol first.
This is normally an add-on program at the front end before the main wash and is normally a very
cool wash with light mechanical action with quite a high water level.
This is important for blood stains, grass stains, and any stain of an unknown origin.
Use a biological detergent in this section so that the enzymes can set to work on the stain.
Then you can drop back to non-biological for the rest of the wash program if you wish, but
biological detergents will always deal with stains better than a non-bio, especially blood. Learn
more about detergent basics
Soiling can be put into groups:
Laundry-Symbols
What this means is that 10% of soiling is water soluble -salts, sugars, sweat-
15% is solvent soluble-oils, greases, waxes, finishing agents.
The bulk of the soiling or 75% are insoluble-soot, dust, pigments these have to be held in
suspension during the wash then rinsed out and drained away during the wash process.
This means that a modern detergent has to dissolve or remove the soiling from the fibres of the
material being washed and then hold the greases and insoluble particles in suspension so that
they do not get re-deposited back onto the garment before rinsing and draining.
This is why clothes are fresher smelling after washing than when dry cleaned.
This is because a lot of the soils are diluted and not removed completely during the draining and
filtering of the cleaning fluid, which means a small amount is retained within the fibres.
This is prevalent when dealing with urine and sweat on clothing such as trousers which have
been dry cleaned.
Where there is a regular problem with bladder weakness it is always best to wear washable
clothing, which can be washed thoroughly and left fresh and free from any odour.
This also applies for sports clothing which is best washed to rid the garment of sweat as opposed
to just diluting it across the garment.
In fact where sweat has stained the underarm area of a garment washing is the best policy in the
long term.
There are now available chemical additives for washing woollen suitings which enable the
protection of fibres during the wash process from the swelling and felting.
These silicon products adhere to the fibres which allows them to slip past each other without the
damage which would cause shrinkage in a normal wash.
An analogy we can use is, if you take a fresh cabbage leaf - which is after all vegetable fibres in
the raw- after placing a leaf in boiling water for a short time the fibres swell and become soft and
malleable.
This is exactly what happens to the fibres of your garment, and if the wash is too harsh the
damage is permanent. So a balance has to be drawn so that the soiling can be swollen and
desolved without permanent damage to the fabric of your garment.
Laundry-Symbols follow the guidelines all the time and you will not go wrong.
Wash Care Labels
This is where the Laundry-Symbol comes in, these are the labels on garments or soft furnishings
which will help you decide the correct wash cycle for the fabric being washed, detergent,
softener/fabric conditioner, tumble drying, ironing temperature that you can safely use.
The Circle Symbol for Dry Cleaning guide
The circle sign is the guide for which Dry Cleaning fluid to be used or if at all.
An A within the circle means cleaning with all conventional solvents is OK.
A P within the circle means use Perchlorethylene and mild solvents.
An F within the circle means cleaning only in mild solvents (the old CFC113) or a white spirit.
An X through the circle means do not dry clean.
The Hand Ironing Symbol

The Next symbol is the Iron Sign, this includes rotary irons and presses.
One dot means low temperature ironing for delicates or synthetics 120°C
Two dots means Woollens and silks 150°C
Three dots means Cottons and Linen at 200°C
A large X through the Iron means non Iron or do not Iron.
The Bath Symbol or wash temperature label

The next and most important sign in Laundry-symbols is for laundry care is the washing vat or
bath sign.
This is the most important Laundry-Symbol when it comes to choosing your wash program for
your washing machine.
This gives the different temperatures for wet wash processing which will effect the dyes and
fibres of the fabric.
If there is a line underneath the bath sign or the circle sign it means low mechanical action is
required or a deep water level like a woollens program on your washing machine.
It means that for woollens the fabrics are gently agitated for short times with long rests between
agitation so as to allow the fibres to recover. This prevents shrinkage and felting. felting is where
the garment tightens up so that the material changes from normal cloth to felt as in a felt hat.
For More Information on How to do Laundry
Follow the links for How to do laundry for more useful information on the wash process Use this
link for more information on how to do laundry
The Triangle or chloride bleach Laundry-symbols

The next item Laundry-symbols is a triangle sign on the label with the letters CL inside which
means chloride bleaches can be used without damaging the fabric.
If there is large X through the triangle this means do not use bleaching agents in the wash or
penultimate rinse which is where the bleach is normally introduced into your washing machine.
Care should be taken that undiluted bleach does not touch the clothing or damage to the colour
and fabric wil be permanent and final.
If you follow all these guidelines your wash day blues will all be golden, and your fabrics will
last for many years longer than they would have if you had ignored the advice.
The Tumble Dryer Symbol
Laundry-Symbols Tumble Dryer
There is also a tumble dryer symbol which will show the temperature or may have a large X
through it which means do not tumble dry.
Laundry-Symbols Here is a Typical washcare label for a Woollen Garment.

Laundry-Symbols.
As you can see this typical wash care label ia for a woollen garment, which means if you look at
the symbols starting at the top right hand side the wash bath symbol. This says hand hot water
with a picture of a hand in the wash bath.
The Triangle with a cross through it means no bleaching agents and the text adds that a non
biological detergent should be used.
The Cross through the Tumble dryer means dry on the line which also explained in the text,
preferably flat.
The iron sign with one dot means low temperature or minimum setting 120 degres Celcius on
your steam iron.
The drycleaning symbol with the P in the middlle means cleaning with Perchlorethylene or mild
solvents.

STAINS AND STAIN REMOVAL PROCESSES

Definition of terms
A stain is dirt or discoloration which may be present on a fabric but does not yield readily to the
normal washing methods. It is not like the ordinary dirt which attaches itself to the fabric. It is
more like a dye which penetrates into the fabric. Many common stains can be removed during
soaking and washing using ordinary detergents.

There are some stains which cannot be removed during above processes and therefore require
treatments. Such stains are best removed BEFORE washing or dry-cleaning. This procedure is
technically known as Pre-spotting.

Types of stains
Stain removal is also known as Spotting. It calls for a high degree of skill and knowledge of
fibre content.
Agents employed in spotting must be very carefully selected. They must not affect the colour of
the fabric, damage, weaken or change the appearance of the fibres and must not leave a residual
mark or swells after the stain has been removed.
The spotter requires a good understanding of the constituent of stains to be able to determine the
correct method and procedure of removal.
A few stains will always be found that cannot be removed. This is usually because of the
limitations of the fabric. Examples include Oxidation, rendering the stain insoluble, or
limitations in the dyed fabric properties.

Types of Stains
Stains are usually encountered in three main forms:
a) Built up stains
Here, the main substance is on the surface of the fabric like a crust, but adheres
very firmly. Dried solid food stains and many paint stains, together with some adhesives are put
in this class.

b) Absorbed stains
In this case, the staining substance has been absorbed by the fabric and has penetrated into it or
even through it. This type of stain is generally caused by liquids, e.g. beer, tea, ink, etc, which
have come into contact with the fabric and have been absorbed or blotted up by it and then dried.

Compound Stains
This type of stain is a mixture of the above two, with part of the staining substance penetrating
into the fabric, whilst another part remains as a layer on the surface. Some paint stains are often
blood are in this category.

Identification of Stains
The efficient removal of stains requires not only the use of appropriate equipment and the
application for the correct temperature, but also care in the preliminary stages before stain
removal is attempted.
It is important to consider what the staining matter is and what type and colour of fabrics is
involved. Adequate examination of the garments and detection of the staining matter is essential.
It is also necessary to understand the general nature of the stain which may be present on
garments and the methods that are available for its removal.

To summarize the stages involved in the identification of stains, the mnemonic word FOCAL is
used to memorize the stages. This reminds us of Feel, Odour, Colour, Appearance and Location.
a) Feel
It should be noted whether the stain feels hard or soft, sticky or smooth, gritty of tacky; as this
will often give a good indication as to the nature of the stain. For example, hardness may indicate
lacquer or certain glues; tacky or slightly soft stains may be toffee or even sugar stains.

b) Odour
Many substances have characteristic odours, e.g. Perfume, salad dressing, fish paste, beer, urine,
etc.
These odours may become more evident if the stain is steamed before spotting.

Colour
Colour is not always as useful as it may seem to be. Many staining materials, although having
recognizable colours, will not always exhibit them because of the colour of the fabric on which
they appear. Never jump to a conclusion or make an assumption based only on the stain colour as
this can be misleading.

Appearance
Stains can often be categorized by their appearance. The stain may be in the form of splash
marks or a smear, it may be shiny or dull, absorbed or built up. These observations can often
suggest the nature of the staining and the manner in which it was applied.
Many stains exhibit dark perimeters e.g. beer. It is relatively easy to establish by looking at a
stain whether it has been caused by a liquid, whether the staining material has been smeared on,
or whether it has been applied accidentally. Appearance therefore is an extremely important
point and must not be overlooked.

e) Location
The position of stains on a garment should always be noted since it may often be a guide to the
origin of the stain. E.g. mud and road tar are found on lower hems and trouser turn-ups. Perfume
is often found on the bust area or underarms of dresses. Small food stains and drink splashes are
usually observed on the front of garments and quite often, hair dye on the back of dresses,
blouses, etc.

Classification of stain removal agents

Stain removal agents can be classified into the following groups:

i) Alkaline agents.
a) Washing soda (sodium carbonate)
It is employed in treating cotton and linen as follows:
i) to remove vegetable or slight scotch stain - The fabric is treated for 15mins in a hot
solution of 1-4 tablespoons of soda to 1pint of water.
ii) to facilitate the removal of grease stain by emulfsying the grease - Steep overnight in
a bath containing 2 tablespoons of soda to 1 gallon of water.
to neutralize after treatment with acid - Saturate in a solution containing 1-4 teaspoons of soda.

b) Sodium sequicarbonate
It is a mixture of soda and sodium bicarbonate.
It is suitable for coloured fabrics and useful when soda cannot be employed and used in the same
proportion.
Borax (sodium tetraborate) - it is a milder alkali than washing soda. It can be used on any fiber.
It is often used in concentrated form for spotting.
Sodium bicarbonate- it is only used when a stronger alkaline agent might damage a delicate
fabric.
Rock ammonia (ammonia carbonate) - it is a mild alkali and can be used as a substitute for borax
in washing new woolens.
Ammonia (ammonia hydroxide) - it is an aqueous solution of ammonia gas. If is concentrated it
has a strong pungent smell. It is used for treating vegetable, grease and slight stains of scotch on
animal fabrics. The solution should be 1-4 teaspoons to 1 pint of warm water.

ii) Acid agents

Oxalic acid is used to remove iron rusts and ink and to clean straw bats. It also removes
obstinate fruit stain and the browning stains left after the potassium permanganate bleach. Oxalic
acid is poisonous so the jar containing it should be labeled and stored and used with great care. A
wooden spoon and wooden, enameled or glass vessel should be used as it wears metals.
Solution- 1 table sppon to 1 pint of water.
Salts of lemon- it is a comound of potassium oxalate and oxalic acid. It has the same use as
oxalic acid and poisonous and should be stored in a safe palce and well labeled.
Acetic acid- it has the same characteristic as vinegar . it decomposes ultra marine blue and may
be used to remove overblueing. It dissolves acetate rayons.
Vinegar- it is a suitable solvent for medicine, varnish and grass stains. It can be used in place of
acetic acid as it contains 6percent of acetic acid.
iii) Solvents
These can be used for – dry cleaning, spotting or removing stains.
Cleaning benzene- removes stains containing grease. It is inexpensive but highly inflammable. It
must not be kept or used to indoors and must never be used near in a fire.
Carbon tetrachloride- is non- flammable and removes stains containing grease.
Acetone- suitable for cellulose paint stains. It must never be applied to acetate rayon as it
destroys the fiber and dissolves it. It is inflammable. One part of acetone well mixed with 2 parts
of warmed glycerin can be safely used as a spotting agent for acetic rayon because the addition
of glycerin counteracts the property of the spirit to dissolve the fibre. Other substances that
destroys the rayon can be employed in the same way.
Methylated spirit- removes wax. It is however not very effective solvent. It can sometimes be
used with soap.
Paraffin- removes paint stains. Used also to clean rubber fittings in laundry appliances.
Turpentine- removes paint stains and grease stains. Used to clean rubber rollers and more
expensive than paraffin.

iv)Absorbent
Are not widely used in stain removal except when the treated article which can only be cleaned
satisfactorily by the method e.g. tapestry , furs and hats. At time they are used effectively with
solvent.
The absorbents that are commonly used are:
Common salts
Bran ( the outer husk of wheat )
Fullers earth
Magnesia
French chalk
Blotting paper

General rules on stain removal

The following are the general rules to be followed when removing stains:
Remove stains when they are fresh as they become fixed with time and more difficult to treat.
If the nature and composition of the stain is unknown, try the least harmful method first, e.g.
steeping in cold water, warm water steep, normal washing. Etc.
Use specific stain removal agents that are clearly identified e.g. a solvent for grease solvents.
When treating stains, try several weak application of the agent rather than one full strength
application, e.g. household applications. The weak applications will be less harmful to the fabric.
Stain removal agents must be in solution when used on coloured fabrics of all types as some
have the tendency to fade and sometimes remove the colour.
When fabric is immersed in solution, it should not be allowed to stay longer than is necessary as
some solutions may weaken the fibres.
Once the stain is removed or it is believed that enough treatment has been done, the garment
should be washed immediately to remove all traces of the agent. If the agent is allowed to dry on
the fabric, it will have a harmful effect.
S/ STAIN AGENT METHOD OF
No REMOVING STAIN
1 Coffee, Tea, Fruit a) Hydrogen Soak for more than 30
Juice, Wine Peroxide minutes.
White articles may be
soaked overnight. When acid stain
Use correct proportion (as removal agents or
per manufacturers’ solutions are used
directions e.g.1:4 to remove specific
b) Bongo Hydrogen peroxide/cold stains, their effects
water should be
c) Borax neutralized by the
Direct application use of alkaline
rinse, e.g. oxalic
Soak for 10-15 min in a acid should be
solution of 103 dessert neutralized by the
spoons of borax to ½ pt. use of household
warm water on cotton, ammonia or soap.
linen and nylon. It is If the agent is
possible to use a more suspected is
concentrated solution suspected to be
2 Blood, Egg, Milk, a) Hydrogen strong for the
Cream, Cocoa, Peroxide + fabric, first try it on
Chocolate, Gravy, Ammonia Soak first in cold water, a hidden part of the
Ice cream and then treat as per garment such as the
b) Qwikgo directions for the agent wrong side of a
used seam. Whatever the
c) Grease agent used, the
Solvents colour of the fabric
3. Ball point Ink, a) Methylated As the agent Chart must not be
marking Ink, Felt Spirit affected, neither
tip pen, Carbon b) Targo As the agent Chart should it leave
Paper and Ordinary c) Castor Oil Direct Application another stain after
Ink the original one has
4. Shoe Polish soot a) Targo Direct Application been removed.
b) White Direct Application Before stains are
Spirit Direct Application removed, one must
c) Methylated study the general
Spirit Direct Appplication appearance of the
d) Grease stain and the
Solvent manner in which it
5. Lipstick a) Grease According to directions is fixed on the
Face Cream Solvent given by the manufacturers fabric.
b) Targo Direct Application
6. Eye brow Pencil Grease Apply solvent and a few
Solvent drops of Ammonia Methods and
+Ammonia procedures of
7. Nail Varnish a) Acetate To remove hair lacquer removing stains
Hair Lacquer b) Acetone from a mirror, wipe with a
c) Methylated clean rag and Methylated
Spirit Spirit
8. Grass Methylated Best results are achieved if
Spirit the garment is moistened
with glycerine first. For
bad stains, warm the spirit
before use by placing in an
open container in a bowl of
 SPECIAL LAUNDRY PROCESSES

Definition of terms
Dry cleaning – it is the process of washing articles and garments in special solvents

Sponging- it is the cleaning of articles in special solutions. It is meant to cut down on dry
cleaning bills.

Reasons for carrying out special laundry processes

To maintain colour of articles and garments
To maintain texture of fabrics
To retain size of articles and garments.
To preserve fabric finishes

Procedure of special laundry processes

Dry Cleaning
Dry cleaning is a process that cleans clothes without water. The cleaning fluid that is used is a
liquid, and all garments are immersed and cleaned in a liquid solvent -- the fact that there is no
water is why the process is called "dry."
The Process
Tagging and inspection - Some method, whether it is small paper tags or little labels written on a
shirt collar, is used to identify your clothes so they don't get mixed up with everyone else's.
Clothes are also examined for missing buttons, tears, etc. that the dry cleaner might get blamed
for otherwise.
Pre-treatment - The cleaner looks for stains on your clothes and treats them to make removal
easier and more complete.
Dry cleaning - The clothes are put in a machine and cleaned with a solvent.
Post-spotting - Any lingering stains are removed.
Finishing - This includes pressing, folding, packaging and other finishing touches

Pre-treating Stains
Pre-treating stains is similar to the procedure used at home when you apply a stain remover to
stains prior to washing them. The idea is to try to remove the stain or make its removal easier
using chemicals.
Simply apply water for wet stains (a stain that had water in it) and solvent for dry stains (a stain
that has grease or oil in it). Then, gently tap and blot both sides of the fabric with a soft cloth so
the stain "bleeds off" onto the cloth. Then, rinse the fabric, let it dry and your cleaner will do the
rest.
Spot Treatment Technique (Sponging) for Apparel Fabrics
A spot treatment confines the stain to a small area and keeps it from spreading. This method is
sometimes called "sponging." For spot treatment you need a supply of absorbent material such
as, clean rags or paper towels, and a dry-cleaning solvent, spot remover, or aerosol pretreatment
spray.
Follow these steps:
Pad the working surface with clean rags or paper towels that can be stained as you work.
Place the stained area or spot on the garment face-down over the padded surface.
Dampen a small white cloth with solvent.
Use the dampened cloth to pat the stain from the wrong side. Feather the edges of the stain
working from the outside toward the center to keep the stained area from getting larger.
As the stain transfers to the absorbent material beneath, move it to a different place on the
absorbent material so the stain has a clean place to exit into.
Repeat this procedure until all traces of stain are gone. Launder to remove any ring that might be
left by the solvent.

LINEN ROOM

Linen room equipment

Equipment found in the linen room are:
 trolley or basket on wheels to move linen around
 sewing machines for repairing
 steps for reaching high surfaces
 electric irons and ironing board
 baskets for placing soiled linen
 table used as a working surface
 Telephone
 Chairs for those who may work seated
 Broom, dustpan and brush

Qualities of a good linen room

Be large enough for necessary work to be carried on without overcrowding
Have an easily cleaned floor
Walls and ceilings of light color
Have windows if possible
Lighting should be free from glare
Have a counter or a stable type door
Slatted wooden shelves
Door that is strong for security reasons

Methods of linen exchange

Linen can be exchanged in the following ways:
Clean for dirty – where the staff from different departments bring in dirty linen and in exchange
get clean ones.
Requisition – where the members of staff write a requisition list and they as issued the linen as
per their requisition.
Calculation of Linen requirements
The amount of linen required will depend on the type and size of hotel and trade carried on.
The frequency in which the laundry collects and deliver will also affect the amount of linen
required.
Re-sheeting will also affect the amount of linen needed. If a hotel re-sheets every day then the
linen required will be more

Calculate the linen requirements, putting in mind the following points:

Calculate the number of beds and the amount of linen on each.
Decide the number of times per week the linen will be changed.
Allow for at least one set of linen to be at the laundry, one set in the linen room or cupboard and
one set on the bed.
In many establishments there is a quick changeover of one- night guests, so it could be necessary
to allow 5-8 sets of linen per bed. This then makes allowances for delays in delivery due to bad
weather, holidays or strikes.
Towels allowed are usually one or two per day.
Hospitals have 4-6 sets of linen per bed, plus an emergency stock including uniforms. The
allowance is not so critical as in other establishments, as linen is laundered on the premises and
therefore a quick turnover ensures clean linen is always available.
Non-residential establishments calculate linen needs according to the number of guests,
standards required, and the type of operations carried out.

Points to consider in linen storage

Linen should be stored on slated shelves. The large linen should be stored on the lower shelves
and light linen stored on high shelves.
Allow linen to rest between uses to allow even wear.
Store linen so that they are easy to remove from the shelves.

Importance of linen control

Linen is controlled to minimize theft, to control stocks and ensure that the all discarded linen is
documented thus facilitate stock control.

Buying linen
When buying linen consider the following points:
Obtain samples and test the quality and strength by:
Rubbing the material between the hands over dark materials and noting the amount of dressing
e.g. starch which falls on it. If too much falls it means it is poor quality.
Looking at the material under magnifying glass to note the closeness and evenness of the weave
Noting the firmness of the selvage and finish of the machining especially the corners.
Sending a sample of material to the laundry to be washed a given number of times and
comparing it with a once washed sample.
Buy the best quality for the purpose.
Buy as a large quantity at one time as possible in order to get the cheapest rates.
Place orders in good time so that exact requirement can be met, particularly regarding size and
marking .
Hospital laundering procedure

Handling Arrangements for Infected Linen

Isolation Room
Carefully remove dirty bed linen from bed.
Bagging of linen should be carried out immediately on removal from the bed.
Dirty linen should be carefully handled and not shaken prior to bagging.
Carefully place infected linen into a hot water soluble bag.
The bag should then be sealed using the cold water soluble tie attached to the bag

Staff Changing Room

Staff changing rooms should have designated dirty/clean areas if possible.
Carefully place Scrubs into a hot water soluble bag immediately following removal in the dirty
area.
The bag should then be sealed using the cold water soluble tie attached to the bag.
A RED colour-coded bag in accordance with HSG(95)18, supported by a suitable bag holder,
will be kept in the staff changing room dirty side.
Place the sealed bag in the RED colour-coded bag. The RED colour- coded bag shall be securely
fastened when it is two-thirds full and an identification tag attached.
The RED colour-coded bag shall remain in the staff changing room to await collection by
support staff.

Collection at Staff Changing Room

Support staff will collect RED colour-coded bags from the staff changing facility and handle
carefully on to the open mesh type trolleys.

Isolation Room Lobby/Anteroom

A polythene or nylon/polyester laundry bag, RED colour-coded in accordance with HSG(95)18
supported by a suitable bag holder will be kept in the isolation room lobby/anteroom.
The sealed bag shall be placed in the RED colour-coded bag.
The RED colour- coded bag shall be securely fastened when it is two-thirds full and an
identification tag attached.
The RED colour- coded bag shall remain in the lobby/anteroom to await collection by support
staff.
If the isolation room does not have a lobby, the member of staff who is working in the isolation
room should place the water soluble bag into a RED colour-coded bag that is being held open by
another member of staff who is directly outside the room. The RED colour-coded bag shall then
be securely fastened and tagged and taken to the ward infected linen holding area.

Collection at Storage Area

If a vehicle is used to transport infected linen to the laundry, simultaneous transport of clean
linen (or other goods) and infected linen is not permitted.
The loaded trolleys will be transferred to the vehicle for onward transfer to the laundry with
trolleys being restrained in the vehicle to restrict movement

Laundry Process at the Infected Linen Area

The loaded trolleys will be transferred from the vehicle directly into the laundry.
Under no circumstances should RED colour-coded bags be opened in the laundry and laundry
sorted.
The RED colour-coded bag must be transferred to the designated washer extractor before
opening. This can be achieved by tipping the inner bag/s out of the outer colour-coded bag
directly into the machine. The RED colour-coded bag (if washable) can then be placed in the
machine followed by the trolley covers. If polythene RED colour-coded bags are used, these
should be disposed off as Clinical Waste.
After each transfer, the vehicle interior and trolleys must be disinfected by an approved infection
control technique i.e. steam cleaning, at a suitable cleaning station.

Protective measures
Staff handling used, unwashed linen should wear protective clothing e.g. disposable, waterproof
aprons and gloves.
Any exposed lesions on the body should always be covered with a waterproof dressing.
Effective hand hygiene must always be implemented.
Staff should be fully trained in all laundry operations