Brioche Basix: Scarf

by Susanne Sommer

This scarf is a great first brioche project, as it showcases all the basic brioche stitches. If
you’re a brioche fiend and want a simple scarf that showcases the cushy stitch and your
favorite worsted weight yarn, this is a pattern for you as well.
You can find a photo tutorial on all the stitches used at the end of the pattern, or you can
watch the video tutorial at www.sosu.at/brioche-tutorial – there’s a beautiful rhythm to
knitting brioche and once you’ve got the motions memorized, you’ll not want to stop!
The scarf is entirely surrounded by an i-cord, for a pretty and finished look.

Yarn: 2 colors of worsted weight yarn

Yardage: 484 m / 529 yards in total
Color A (light color): 246 m / 269 yards Color B (dark color): 238 m / 260 yards
Shown in: Malabrigo Rios Sea Green (A) and Plomo (B)
Gauge: 19 sts / 17 rows = 10 cm / 4” in brioche stitch (unblocked)
18 sts / 14 rows = 10 cm / 4” in brioche stitch (after blocking)
Sizes: 20 cm / 8“ wide, 200 cm / 79“ long (easily customizable in length)
Needles: US 8/5.0 mm circular needles & US 10/6.0 mm for CO & BO (or size needed to obtain gauge)
Notions: tapestry needle, 2 stitch markers, 1 split-ring stitch marker/stitch holder/cable needle, crochet
hook and waste yarn for provisional CO (optional)

[BRIOCHE 101]

BASICS
brk: brioche knit (“bark”): knit the stitch (that was
slipped in the previous row) together with its
yarn over
brp: brioche purl (“burp”): purl the stitch (that was
slipped in the previous row) together with its
yarn over
sl1yo following k or brk: (slip 1 yarn over) bring the
working yarn under the needle to the front of
the work, slip the next stitch purlwise, then
bring the yarn over the needle (and over the
slipped stitch) to the back, in position to work
the following stitch. The slipped stitch with its
yarn over is considered one stitch.
sl1yo following p or brp: (slip 1 yarn over) working
yarn is already in front, slip the next stitch
purlwise, then bring the yarn over the needle
(and over the slipped stitch), then to the front
under the needle, into position to work the
following stitch. The slipped stitch with its yarn
over is considered one stitch.
COLORS & SIDES
LC: light color (foreground color)
DC: dark color (background color)
LS: light side of work: the “knit” columns on this
side of the work are in the light color
DS: dark side of work: the “knit” columns on this
side of the work are in the dark color
INCREASES
brkyobrk (2-stitch increase): brk1 and leave stitch on
the needle, yo (= yarn forward under needle
then over needle to back), then brk1 into
same stitch
brkyobrkyobrk (4-stitch increase): brk1 and leave
stitch on the needle, [yo (= yarn forward
under needle then over needle to back),
then brk1 into same stitch] twice
DECREASES
brLsl dec (left-slanting 2-stitch decrease): slip the first
stitch knitwise, brk the following two stitches
together, then pass the slipped stitch over
brRsl dec (right-slanting 2-stitch decrease): slip the
first stitch knitwise, knit the next stitch, pass the
slipped stitch over, place stitch on left hand
needle and pass the following stitch over,
then place stitch back on right hand needle
4st br dec (centered 4-stitch decrease): slip 2
stitches separately knitwise, place following
stitch on a cable needle to front of work, k1,
pass second slipped stitch over, place stitch
on left hand needle and pass following stitch
over, transfer stitch to right hand needle, pass
first slipped stitch over, place stitch from cable
needle on left hand needle, place live st on
left hand needle, pass cable needle stitch
over. Place finished stitch on right hand
needle.

© 2016 by Susanne Sommer | all rights reserved | pattern for personal use only 1"
Brioche & Counting rows
In Brioche you have to work two rows for every counted row.
That’s because only half of the stitches are worked in one row, the other
half (the stitches that were slipped in the previous row) are worked in the
following row.
When counting rows, count only the stitches going up one knit column.
In two-color Brioche you first work a row with your lighter color (Color A), then slide
all stitches to the other end of your needle and work that row again with your darker
color (color B). All of this is reflected in the numbering of the rows, as you’ll see below.
There’s always two R1s, R2s … and you can also see, whether it’s a light- or dark-side row
(LS or DS) and which color you’ll have to use (LC = A, DC = B), e.g. R1 LS DC: row one on
the light side using the darker color.
Your lighter color (LC = A) will be the dominant color on the Light Side (LS), your darker color (DC
= B) will be dominant on the Dark Side (DS). They are not called right- or wrong sides, because
brioche is reversible.

Gauge Swatch
Before starting the actual project, knit a small swatch to find the perfect needle size for the project and your
yarn and to familiarize yourself with Brioche Stitch. Checking Gauge is only secondary, as brioche is very
stretchy anyway.
When choosing a needle size for any brioche project, don’t just look at the gauge. It’s a lot more important that
you like fabric you create and that the needle size is best suited for your yarn and tension: The fabric should be
lofty, cushy and drapey. While the stitches should be slightly looser than with stockinette, they shouldn’t look
sloppy either.
With Color A and larger needle size, cast on an odd number of stitches using long-tail cast on.
Set-Up (WS): With Color A and smaller needle size, (k1, sl1yo) to last st, sl1 wyif
R1 LS LC: With Color A, k1, brk1, (sl1yo, brk1) to last st, sl1 wyif – slip stitches to the other end of the needle
and work another LS row with your DC
R1 LS DC: With Color B, k1, sl1yo, (brp1, sl1yo) to last st, sl1 wyif
R2 DS LC: With Color A, k1, brp1, (sl1yo, brp1) to last st, sl1 wyif – slip stitches to the other end of the needle
and work another DS row with your DC
R2 DS DC: With Color B, k1, sl1yo, (brk1, sl1yo) to last st, sl1 wyif
Repeat R1 LS LC to R2 DS DC at least 13 times more.
Next Row (RS): With Color A, k1, brk1, (p1, brk) to last st, sl1 wyif
Bind off all stitches in the following WS row with your preferred bind off method and the larger needle size (to
make sure the bind-off stretchy enough).

[CAST ON: i-cord]

Video-Tutorial at sosu.at/i-cord-co
Using the larger needle, provisionally CO 3 sts.
I recommend crocheting them onto the needle with waste yarn, then knit a short i-cord as follows
(alternatively you can do a long-tail CO, then pick up and knit 3 sts from the CO at the beginning of
the set-up row):

R1: With Color A, k3, slip stitches back on left needle

Repeat last row 34 times more.
Set-up: k3, pick up and knit 33 sts from the i-cord (1 st from each row), then unravel the provisional
cast on and slip 3 stitches onto your needle wyif and with the WS facing forward (the first stitch you
get to when unraveling the CO should be the last you slip onto your right needle). – 39 sts
Continue with smaller needle size.

Now you’ll start working in two-color brioche: Work the first LS/DS row with your light color (LC = A),
then slip all stitches to the other end of the needle and work another LS/DS row with your dark
color (DC = B). Only then turn your work.

© 2016 by Susanne Sommer | all rights reserved | pattern for personal use only 2"
[SECTION 1: Basic Brioche]
In brioche, you always work a stitch by knitting or purling it together with its yarn-over, then slipping
the next stitch while making a yarn-over. But since right after casting on, there are no yarn-overs yet,
we’ll have to work a set-up row. Both of the following set-up rows are wrong-side rows, so to speak
(since brioche is reversible, there really is no right or wrong side, but rather a light and a dark side).
After working the first set-up row with your lighter color, slip all stitches to the other end of your needle
and work the second set-up row with your darker color, then turn your work and continue with R1.
Set-up DS LC: With Color A, k3, p1, (sl1yo, p1) to last 3 sts, sl3 wyif
Set-up DS DC: With Color B, k3, sl1yo, (brk1, sl1yo) to last 3 sts, sl3 wyif

R1 LS LC: With Color A, k3, brk1, (sl1yo, brk1) to last 3 sts, sl3 wyif
R1 LS DC: With Color B, k3, sl1yo, (brp1, sl1yo) to last 3 sts, sl3 wyif
R2 DS LC: With Color A, k3, brp1, (sl1yo, brp1) to last 3 sts, sl3 wyif
R2 DS DC: With Color B, k3, sl1yo, (brk1, sl1yo) to last 3 sts, sl3 wyif

Repeat R1-2 once more.

[SECTION 2: X]
This is where the fun really begins: we’re forming an X with increases and decreases! If you need a
little visual aide, you can find a step-by-step photo-tutorial at the end of this pattern and a video-
tutorial at sosu.at/brioche-tutorial.
R1 LS LC: With Color A, k3, brk1, sl1yo, brkyobrk, sl1yo, PM, brLsl dec, sl1yo, (brk1, sl1yo) nine times,
brRsl dec, PM, sl1yo, brkyobrk, sl1yo, brk1, sl3 wyif
R1 LS DC: With Color B, k3, sl1yo, brp1, sl1yo, p1, sl1yo, brp1, SM, sl1yo, (brp1, sl1yo) to M, SM, brp1,
sl1yo, p1, sl1yo, brp1, sl1yo, sl3 wyif
R2 DS LC: With Color A, k3, brp1, (sl1yo, brp1) to last 3 sts, sl3 wyif
R2 DS DC: With Color B, k3, sl1yo, (brk1, sl1yo) to last 3 sts, sl3 wyif

R3 LS LC: With Color A, k3, (brk1, sl1yo) to 2 sts before M, brkyobrk, sl1yo, SM, brLsl dec, sl1yo, (brk1,
sl1yo) to 3 sts before M, brRsl dec, SM, sl1yo, brkyobrk, (sl1yo, brk1) to last 3 sts, sl3 wyif
R3 LS DC: With Color B, k3, (sl1yo, brp1) to increase, sl1yo, p1, sl1yo, brp1, SM, sl1yo, (brp1, sl1yo) to
M, SM, brp1, sl1yo, p1, sl1yo, (brp1, sl1yo) to last 3 sts, sl3 wyif
R4 DS LC: With Color A, k3, brp1, (sl1yo, brp1) to last 3 sts, sl3 wyif
R4 DS DC: With Color B, k3, sl1yo, (brk1, sl1yo) to last 3 sts, sl3 wyif

Repeat R3-4 three times more.

The first half of the X is nearly done! All that’s left is to work a four-stitch decrease at the center. This is
a rather complicated stitch, so take a good look at the photo- or video-tutorial and follow it step-by-
step. You’ll need a stitch marker that opens, a safety pin or a cable needle for it.

R11 LS LC: With Color A, k3, (brk1, sl1yo) to 2 sts before M, brkyobrk, sl1yo, SM, 4st br dec, SM, sl1yo,
brkyobrk, (sl1yo, brk1) to last 3 sts, sl3 wyif
R11 LS DC: With Color B, k3, (sl1yo, brp1) to increase, sl1yo, p1, sl1yo, brp1, SM, sl1yo, SM, brp1, sl1yo,
p1, sl1yo, (brp1, sl1yo) to last 3 sts, sl3 wyif
R12 DS LC: With Color A, k3, brp1, (sl1yo, brp1) to last 3 sts, sl3 wyif
R12 DS DC: With Color B, k3, sl1yo, (brk1, sl1yo) to last 3 sts, sl3 wyif

R13 LS LC: With Color A, k3, brk1, (sl1yo, brk1) to last 3 sts, sl3 wyif
R13 LS DC: With Color B, k3, sl1yo, (brp1, sl1yo) to last 3 sts, sl3 wyif
R14 DS LC: With Color A, k3, brp1, (sl1yo, brp1) to last 3 sts, sl3 wyif
R14 DS DC: With Color B, k3, sl1yo, (brk1, sl1yo) to last 3 sts, sl3 wyif

The second half of the X starts with a four-stitch increase in the center.

R15 LS LC: With Color A, k3, (brk1, sl1yo) to 4 sts before M, brRsl dec, sl1yo, SM, brkyobrkyobrk, SM,
sl1yo, brLsl dec, (sl1yo, brk1) to last 3 sts, sl3 wyif
R15 LS DC: With Color B, k3, (sl1yo, brp1) to M, SM, sl1yo, (p1, sl1yo) twice, SM, (brp1, sl1yo) to last 3
sts, sl3 wyif

© 2016 by Susanne Sommer | all rights reserved | pattern for personal use only 3"
R16 DS LC: With Color A, k3, brp1, (sl1yo, brp1) to last 3 sts, sl3 wyif
R16 DS DC: With Color B, k3, sl1yo, (brk1, sl1yo) to last 3 sts, sl3 wyif

R17 LS LC: With Color A, k3, (brk1, sl1yo) to 4 sts before M, brRsl dec, sl1yo, SM, brkyobrk, sl1yo, (brk1,
sl1yo) to 1 st before M, brkyobrk, SM, sl1yo, brLsl dec, (sl1yo, brk1) to last 3 sts, sl3 wyif
R17 LS DC: With Color B, k3, (sl1yo, brp1) to M, SM, sl1yo, p1, sl1yo, (brp1, sl1yo) to 2 sts before M, p1,
sl1yo, SM, (brp1, sl1yo) to last 3 sts, sl3 wyif
R18 DS LC: With Color A, k3, brp1, (sl1yo, brp1) to last 3 sts, sl3 wyif
R18 DS DC: With Color B, k3, sl1yo, (brk1, sl1yo) to last 3 sts, sl3 wyif

Repeat R17-18 four times more.

[SECTION 3: Main Scarf]

Repeat R1-2 of Basic Brioche (Section 1) 112 times
more.
Alternatively: Work less repeats for a shorter, more
repeats for a longer scarf (7 repeats equal 10 cm / 4“
length).

[SECTION 4: X]
Repeat Section 2 (X) once more. Remove all stitch
markers in the last row.
Then repeat R1-2 of Section 1 (Basic Brioche) twice
more.

[BIND-OFF: I-Cord BO]

Before binding off, we’re going to „get rid“ of the brioche stitches by working a set-up row (this is
pretty much the opposite of the set-up row worked in Section 1). I find it easier and neater to not
bind off in brioche, but in „regular“ knit and purl stitches.

Set-up (RS): With Color A, k3, brk1, (p1, brk1) to last 3 sts, sl3 wyif

Use a larger needle size to make sure the bind-off is not too tight.
Bind off all sts on the next (WS) row using an i-cord BO as follows: k3, slip 3 sts back onto left needle,
(k2, k2tog tbl, slip 3 sts back onto left needle) repeat to last 3 sts – 6 sts remaining in total.
Graft the remaining 6 sts together (using kitchener stitch).

[FINISHING]
Weave in all ends and gently block to dimensions. To make sure to not block out the fluffy texture of
brioche stitch, lay the shawl down flat on your blocking mat, then spray it with water and gently pull
into shape. Pin down the corners and let dry.

[Abbreviations]
4st br dec ............four stitch brioche decrease
BO ........................bind off
brk ........................brioche knit
brkyobrk ..............two stitch brioche increase
brkyobrkyobrk ....fourt stitch brioche increase
brLsl dec ..............left slanting decrease in brioche stitch
brp .......................brioche purl
brRsl dec .............right slanting decrease in brioche stitch
CO .......................cast on
DC ........................dark color / background color
DS .........................dark side
k ...........................knit
k2tog ...................knit two stitches together
LC .........................light color / foreground color
LS ..........................light side
M ..........................stitch marker
p ...........................purl
PM ........................place marker
R ...........................row(s)
RM ........................remove marker
RS ......................... right side
sl ...........................slip stitch
sl1yo .....................slip one and yarn over at the same time
SM ........................slip marker
st/sts .....................stitch/stitches
tbl......................... through back loop
WS ........................wrong side
wyif ......................with yarn in front

[Contact] ravelry: Susanne Sommer | instagram: @sosuknits | susanne@sosu.at | www.sosu.at

© 2016 by Susanne Sommer | all rights reserved | pattern for personal use only 4"
Brioche Basix: Step by Step

brioche knit: brk (“bark“) brioche purl: brp (“burp“)

brk: knit the stitch together brp: purl the stitch together with its yarn over
with its yarn over

slip 1 and yarn over: sl1yo

1: bring the working yarn to 2: bring the yarn over the (3: if followed by a brp: bring
the front of the work, slip the needle and the sllipped stitch yarn to the front again)
next stitch purlwise to the back

brioche increase: brkyobrk (for brkyobrkyobrk repeat Step 1 and 2 once more)

1: work a brk, but leave it on 2: work a yo by bringing yarn 3: work another brk into the
the left needle over the needle to the back same stitch
© 2016 by Susanne Sommer | all rights reserved | pattern for personal use only 5"
working over increase in the following row

1: work first stitch as a sl1yo 2: purl the second stitch 3: work third stitch as a sl1yo

left slanting decrease = brLsl dec

1: slip one as if to brioche knit 2: (brioche) knit the next two stitches together

3: pass slipped stitch over Done: A left slanting brioche

© 2016 by Susanne Sommer | all rights reserved | pattern for personal use only 6"
right slanting decrease = brRsl dec

1: slip one as if to brioche knit 2: knit the next stitch 4: slip stitch on the left needle

3: lift the slipped stitch over

5: lift next stitch over 6: slip stitch back on the right

needle

four-stitch brioche decrease = 4st br dec

1: slip one as if to brioche knit 2: slip one as if to knit 3: slip the next stitch (center
stitch of decrease) on stitch
holder and leave it in the front
of the work

© 2016 by Susanne Sommer | all rights reserved | pattern for personal use only 7"
4: knit the next stitch 5: lift the second slipped stitch 6: slip the stitch on the left
(step 2) over the knit stitch (4) needle and lift the next stitch
over

7: slip the stitch back on the 8: slip center stitch from stitch holder on the left needle, then slip
right needle and lift the first „working“ stitch (step 7) also on the left needle
slipped stitch (step 1) over

9: lift center stitch (the one from the stitch holder) over the 10: slip stitch back on the right
„working“ stitch needle

© 2016 by Susanne Sommer | all rights reserved | pattern for personal use only 8"