9

TLE Industrial
Arts:
Electrical Installation
and Maintenance (EIM)
Quarter 4 – Module 2:
Installing of Electrical Lighting
System and Auxiliary Outlets
(Week 2)
 What I Need to Know

This module was designed and written with you, students, in mind. It is here to help
you familiarize yourself with the Installation of Electrical Lighting systems &
Auxiliary Outlets in accordance with Job Requirements and PEC/NEC provisions.
The scope of this module permits it to be used in many different learning situations.
The language used recognizes the diverse vocabulary level of students. The lessons
are arranged to follow the standard sequence of the course.

This module covers the lesson on Installation of Electrical Lighting System &
Auxiliary Outlets.

At the end of the lesson, you are expected to:

1. distinguish the different kinds of Electrical Lighting Systems & Auxiliary
Outlets;
2. describe the different kinds of Electrical Lighting Systems & Auxiliary Outlets;
and
3. appreciate the importance of the different kinds of Electrical Lighting systems
& Auxiliary Outlets.

What I Know

Please do not forget to write the following on your answer sheet:

Name: _________________________ Yr. & Section: _______________
Yr. Level & Subject (Specialization): ___________ Module No: _____
Name of the Activity: What I Know Date: ______

Instructions: Read the sentences carefully and choose the correct answer from the
choices below.

1. It consists of a tungsten filament enclosed in a glass-filled glass bulb.

A. Incandescent Lamp C. Mercury Vapor Lamp
B. Fluorescent Lamp D. Neon Lamp
2. This lamp has in addition to its tungsten filament, two tungsten electrodes, and
a mercury pool.
A. Incandescent Lamp C. Mercury Vapor Lamp
B. Fluorescent Lamp D. Neon Lamp
3. It consists of a glass tube filled with argon gas and coated inside with a
fluorescent chemical called phosphor which glows when struck by ultra-violet
rays.
A. Incandescent Lamp C. Mercury Vapor Lamp
B. Fluorescent Lamp D. Neon Lamp

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4. It has no filament, but it contains neon gas which gives out colored light when
the current at high pressure strikes it.
A. Incandescent Lamp C. Mercury Vapor Lamp
B. Fluorescent Lamp D. Neon Lamp
5. It is made of a fine coil to regulate the flow of current in the circuit which, if not
controlled, will open the circuit breaker or fuse.
A. Fluorescent tube C. Fluorescent starter
B. Fluorescent tube holder D. Ballast
6. It helps the fluorescent lamp to light when voltage is applied. It allows the current
to flow through the filaments at the end of the tube.
A. Fluorescent tube
B. Fluorescent tube holder C. Fluorescent starter D. Ballast
7. A glass tube filled with argon gas and coated inside with a fluorescent chemical
called phosphor which glows when struck by ultra-violet rays.
A. Fluorescent tube C. Fluorescent starter
B. Fluorescent tube holder D. Ballast
8. It is lighting fixtures that hold firmly the fluorescent tube in place. It connects
electrically to the contact pins of the fluorescent tube.
A. Fluorescent tube C. Fluorescent starter
B. Fluorescent tube holder D. Ballast
9. It is so-called because its phosphors radiate light when exposed to ultraviolet
rays.
A. Fluorescent lamp C. Fluorescent starter
B. Incandescent Lamp D. None
10. It is very sensitive to voltage change, and voltage change materially affects its life
span. On average 10% lower voltage supply, its life span is increased by 25%
and reduced by 75% with 10% overvoltage supply.
A. Fluorescent lamp C. Fluorescent starter
B. Incandescent Lamp D. None

What’s New

Choosing appropriate lighting fixtures for specific tasks makes work easy and safe.
This lesson will discuss the parts, function/uses of the different lamps, and other
lighting fixtures and accessories.

This electrical device is designed/ intended to hold and connect the lamp contact
point to a power supply as well as control and distribute the light, and position and
protect the lamp. Not all lighting fixtures, however, possess all these functions. For
instance, a lamp holder only serves as a holder of the bulb or as a connection of the
bulb and some other fixtures that are utilized as an aid in the distribution or control
of light.

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 What Is It

KINDS OF LAMPS

Lamps may be classified according to their uses. We have Lamps for home lighting,
like the incandescent lamp and fluorescent; lamps for street lighting, like the
mercury-vapor lamp; lamps for commercial lighting, like the neon lamp and
animation lamp; lamps for stage and movie making, like the klieg light; and lamps
for military and security light like the searchlight, the floodlight, and the halogen
light. Let us discuss only the most common.

Incandescent lamp.
It consists of a tungsten filament enclosed
in a glass-filled glass bulb. Current
flowing through the filament causes it to
become white-hot. The incandescent heat
gives off light. The glare coming from the
filament is lessened by covering the
surface of the glass with frost.
Incandescent lamps are rated in watts,
ranging from 5 watts up to 1,500 watts.
The higher the wattage, the bigger the
bulb. The bulbs may be clear, frosted, or
colored. There are a variety of shapes and
sizes, depending upon their uses in the
circuit.

Mercury Vapor Lamp.

This lamp has in addition to its tungsten
filament, two tungsten electrodes, and a
mercury pool. The heat from the filament
turns the mercury into vapor. The vapor
acts as a conductor and carries the
current between the two electrodes. The
electrodes are heated to incandescent,
and the bulb gives off bluish-green light.

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Fluorescent Lamp.
It consists of a glass tube filled
with argon gas and coated inside
with a fluorescent chemical
called phosphor which glows
when struck by ultra-violet rays.
A filament is attached at the end
of the tube. The color of the light
given off depends on the kind of
mineral used to coat the inside
of the tube. Fluorescent lamps
are more efficient than
incandescent because they give
off lighter and less heat. The
color of the light is about the
same as daylight. Fluorescent
lamps are rated in watts, ranging
from 10, 20, 40watts.
Sodium Vapor Lamp.
This lamp is similar to the
mercury vapor lamp. Instead of
mercury, this lamp uses sodium.
A sodium vapor lamp is also
known as a gas discharge lamp.
When heated the sodium vapor
gives off yellow light. Sodium
vapor lamps are very effective in
lighting streets and highways.
Neon Lamp.
The neon lamp has no filament,
but it contains neon gas which
gives out colored light when the
current at high pressure strikes
it. The tubes which can be easily
bent into different shapes make
it very ideal for outdoor
advertising. Inhalation of
concentrated neon can cause
dizziness, nausea, vomiting &
loss of consciousness.

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 Electric Arc Lamp.
This lamp consists of two
carbon rods placed in a straight
line with a small gap in between.
When the direct current is
applied to the carbon rods, an
arc is formed on the gap. The
arc gives a very strong light.
Electric current can flow
through the arc because of the
carbon vapor around the arc
which serves as a conductor.
Light Emitting Diode (LED).
It is a semiconductor light
source that emits light when
current flows through it.
Electrons in the semiconductor
recombine with electron holes,
releasing energy in the form of
photons.

INCANDESCENT LAMP

The incandescent lamp has a wide variety of forms, shapes, and sizes. Likewise, its
base is also made of different types and various designs. Incandescent lamps are
critically dependent on the wattage supply that even for a small fluctuation of the
current-voltage, its life output, and efficiency are materially affected. For instance:

1. Burning a 120-volt lamp with 115 volts current supply will mean approximately:

15% less light of the lamp (lumens)

7% lower power consumption (watts)
8% lower efficacy (lumens per hour)
72% more life (burning hours)

2. Burning a 120-volt lamp with 125 volts current supply will mean approximately:
16% more light (lumens)
6% more power consumption (watts)
8% higher efficacy (lumens per hour)
42% less life (burning hours)

Incandescent lamp is very sensitive to voltage change, and voltage change

materially affects their life span. On average 10% lower voltage supply, its life span
is increased by 25% and reduces by75% with 10% overvoltage supply.

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On average, less than 10% of the wattage is utilized to produce light and the rest
produces heat. In short, this type of lamp is considered a poor choice for energy
conversion because it produces a poor and low level of lighting. However
incandescent lamp has also the following Advantages:
1. It is cheaper.
2. Instant start and re-start
3. Simple and inexpensive dimming
4. Simple and compact installation requiring no accessories.
5. High power factor
6. It can be focused.
7. Its life is independent of the number of starts.
8. It has good color.

Disadvantages of Incandescent lamp:

1. Has a low efficacy
2. Has shorter life
3. Sensitive and critical to voltage changes or fluctuations.
4. High maintenance cost
5. More heat is produced than light

Due to its poor energy characteristics, the incandescent lamp should be limited to
the following applications:
1. Infrequent or short-duration use.
2. Where low-cost dimming is necessary.
3. In focusing fixtures.
4. Where minimum initial cost is required.

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 FLUORESCENT LAMP

The Fluorescent Lamp was first introduced in 1937. It was considered the best, and
most widely used type of lamp. Generally, it comes in varieties of sizes, wattage,
colors, voltages, and specific applications.

The Cathode fluorescent lamp is the most common type comprising of a cylindrical
glass tube sealed at both ends, containing a mixture of an inert gas generally argon,
and low-pressure mercury vapor. At each end, is a cathode that supplies electrons
to start and maintain the mercury arc of gaseous discharge. The short wave ultra-
violet light produced by the mercury arc is absorbed by the phosphors coating inside
the tube and is reradiated in the visible light range. The fluorescent lamp is so-called
because its phosphors radiate light when exposed to ultraviolet rays.

A fluorescent lamp requires ballast in its circuit. The ballast is basically made of a
coil to limit the current in the circuit which, if not controlled, will open the fuse or
circuit breaker.

Characteristics of a Fluorescent lamp

1. The fluorescent lamp efficacy is much higher than the incandescent lamp.
2. About 200% of its input energy becomes light, 80% is converted to heat
including the ballast heat energy loss.

ELECTRICAL LAYOUT AND ESTIMATE

Efficiency refers to the amount of energy converted to visible light.

Efficacy is a measure of the lumens per watt produced by the lamp.

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 LIFE SPAN OF FLUORESCENT LAMP

The fluorescent lamp has a longer life span compared with the incandescent lamp.
Its life span is materially affected by the number of times the lamp is switched on
and switched off. Generally, switching wears out the lamp cathode and continuous
burning of fluorescent lamps would last about 30,000 hours. With an average of 3
hours burning per start, a fluorescent lamp could last for about 12,000 hours only.

PRE-HEAT LAMP

The original fluorescent lamp is a preheated design. The circuit used is a separate
starter. When the lamp circuit is closed, the started energizes the cathode, after two
(2) to five (5) seconds delay, it initiates a high voltages arc across the lamp causing
it to start.

The preheat fluorescent lamp is ordered in the following specifications:

F 20 T 12 WW which means;
• Fluorescent lamp 20 watts,
• Tubular shaped bulb 12/8 inches diameter
• Warm, White.

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 RAPID START LAMP

The rapid start lamp was introduced in 1952, it was typically the same in the
construction as the preheat lamp. The basic difference is the circuitry that eliminates
the delay inherent in preheating circuit by constantly keeping the cathodes energized
or preheated.

The 40W T12 is the most popular lamp represented by code name F40 T12 WW R/S.
this high output lamp has a recessed contact base that requires special circuits and
ballast that are not interchangeable with any other types of lamps. This type of lamp,
however, has a shorter life span and is less efficient compared with the 4200 milli-
ampere rapid start lamp. Most of the rapid start lamps operate at 425 milliamperes.

Another objection to this type of lamp is the glare it produces aside from its very
limited application. However, this particular type of lamp is specially used for outdoor
sign lighting, street lighting, and merchandise display.

There are two special types of higher output rapid start lamps. Namely:
1. One that operates 800 milli-amperes called high output (HO)
2. One that operates at 1500 milli-amperes (1.5 amp.) called; very high output
(VHO); super high output or simply 1500 milliampere rapid start lamp. In
ordering this type of lamp, the abbreviation is:
F 48 T 12/CW/VHO which means;
• Fluorescent lamp 48 in. long, Tubular 12/8 in. diameter bulb
• Cool White, High Output (800 mla.)

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 INSTANT START FLUORESCENT LAMP

This type of fluorescent lamp was introduced in 1944, it was called the Slim Lamp
considered the best among varieties of instant fluorescent lamps. It has only one pin
at each end acting as a switch to break the ballast circuit when the tube is removed.
The lamp is operated in two lamp circuits at various currents such as:

Normal current… 200 and 425 milli-amperes (mla.)

Normal length… 24 in., 36in., 42, 48, 60, 64, 72, 84 and 96.

This lamp is a hot cathode, instant start lamp, different from the high voltage cold
cathode type. Comparatively, this type is more expensive than the rapid start types
and somewhat less efficient. However, it has also the advantage of starting at a much
lower ambient temperature than the rapid start circuit. This lamp is preferred on
outdoor installations.

To order this type of Lamp it is written as:

F 42 T 6 CW Slimline, meaning:
Fluorescent lamp 42 in. long,
Tubular 6/8 in. diameter tube
Cool White, Instant Start

Take note that for the instant start lamp, the number following the letter F indicates
the length of the tube, not the wattage. This applies to all lamps that operate at other
than 425 milli-amperes which is the normal current.

Cold Cathode Tube is another type of lamp that offers a very long-life service
compared with the hot cathode lamp. The lamp is not affected by the number of
starting or switching off the lamp. It has a lower overall efficacy compared to the hot
cathode lamp and is generally used where a long continuous burning is required.

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 Characteristics and Operation of Fluorescent lamp

1. Life Span – depends on the burning hours per start.

2. Lumen Output – decrease rapidly during the first 100 hours of burning
and thereafter much more slowly.
3. Efficacy – depends on the operating current and the phosphors utilized.
Generally, the warm white lamp is more efficient than the white, cool white,
daylight, and colored lamps.

HIGH OUTPUT LAMPS

PARTS OF A FLUORESCENT LAMP ASSEMBLY

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 Parts of Fluorescent Lamp and Its Meaning

Fluorescent lamp ballast is basically made of a fine coil to regulate the flow of
current in the circuit which, if not controlled, will open the circuit breaker or fuse.

A fluorescent lamp starter helps the fluorescent lamp to light when voltage is
applied. It allows the current to flow through the filaments at the end of the tube.
The current causes the starter contact to heat and open thus interrupting the flow
of the current. Once the lamp is lighted the starter opens. You can even remove the
starter from its connection.

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The fluorescent tube is a glass tube filled with argon gas and coated inside with a
fluorescent chemical called phosphor which glows when struck by ultra-violet rays.

A fluorescent lamp tube holder is a lighting fixture that holds firmly the fluorescent
tube in place. It connects electrically to the pins of the fluorescent tube.

TYPES OF FLUORESCENT LAMP

• BASED ON THE CONNECTION

1. THE TYPICAL TYPE OF FLUORESCENT LAMP

2. ELECTRONICS BALLAST TYPE

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 3. SINGLE-ENDED FLUORESCENT LAMP

4. DOUBLE-ENDED FLUORESCENT LAMP

• BASED ON THE SHAPE OF THE BULB

1. Circular Type

2. Tubular Type

3. Compact Fluorescent Lamp

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15
 LAMP REFLECTORS

Interior Lighting Tips – Size and Placement Guide

There are several design questions we get asked over and over again, so we thought,
hey, let’s compile the answers into a 5-part series and share them. Today we are
sharing the proper size and placement rules to follow for hanging several different
types of lighting. Lighting is an important element in any room. It can set a romantic
mood or offer a bright, playful vibe. However, the rules of where to hang a light fixture
vary by room and can be tricky to master. We break down the size and placement
guidelines for pendants, chandeliers, and sconces, taking the guesswork out of
how to hang them.

Entry Chandelier
An entryway is a guest’s first impression of your home, and chandeliers often play a
huge role. You want to choose a chandelier that reflects your home’s style and is the
right size for your space—a small light will look dwarfed, while a chandelier that is
too large can overpower a room. Here are two important measurements to take into
consideration when choosing the correct chandelier size: height and diameter.

Decor Pad

Height
The higher the ceiling, the taller the chandelier. The rule of thumb is to accommodate
2 ½ -3 inches of chandelier height for each foot of ceiling height. A standard 8-foot
ceiling requires a chandelier that is 20-24 inches in height.

Diameter
Once you have the height, it is time to figure out the diameter. Here is a trick- add
the height and the width of the room together. Treat that sum as inches, and you

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have the suggested diameter of the chandelier for that space. For example, if the
room is 20 by 18 feet, the sum is 38 feet. The approximate diameter of a chandelier
in that area is 38 inches.

Chandeliers over a Dining Room Table

In a dining room, it is key to measure accurately to ensure the perfect placement of
the right-size light. Chandeliers should be centered over the dining table. The
exception to this is if you are placing two smaller chandeliers over the table instead
of one.

Leedy Interiors

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Size (Height and Diameter)
To avoid bumping heads, a chandelier hung above a table should have a diameter 1
foot narrower than the table’s width.

Placement
The light fixture should be hung 30-34 inches above the dining table. This same rule
holds true for lighting over kitchen tables. For ceilings higher than 8 feet, add about
three inches to the hanging height per foot. So, if your ceiling is 10 feet tall, your
lighting fixture should be hung 36-40 inches over the table.
Pendants over an Island
Pendants over an island are a great way to provide task lighting while serving as
visual and design focal points in a room. When we are selecting and hanging pendant
lights over an island there are a couple of rules of thumb that we use to make sure
the lights are sized, spaced, and hung appropriately.

Procedure in Installing Electrical Lighting Fixtures

HOW TO INSTALL FLUORESCENT LAMP

You might consider replacing some of your old incandescent fixtures with fluorescent
lamps. Fluorescent light provides even and shadow-free illumination, but, best of all,
fluorescent bulbs are more efficient than incandescent bulbs. In an incandescent
bulb, much of the electric power is discharged as heat instead of light. The
fluorescent bulb, in contrast, remains cool.

How does a fluorescent lamp work? In a fluorescent circuit, beginning at the left-
hand prong of the plug, current goes through the ballast, through one of the lamp

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filaments, through the closed switch in the starter, through the other filament in the
lamp, and out the right-hand prong of the plug. The current heats the two small
elements in the ends of the fluorescent tube; then the starter opens and the current
flows through the lamp.

The ballast is a magnetic coil that adjusts the current through the tube. It makes a
surge of the current arc through the tube when the starter opens, and then it keeps
the current flowing at the right rate once the tube is glowing. In most fluorescent
fixtures, the starter is an automatic switch. Once it senses that the lamp is glowing,
it stays open. The starter closes whenever you de-energize the fixture.

Many fluorescent fixtures have more than one tube to provide more light. These
lamps must have individual starters and ballasts for each tube. The fixture may
appear to have two tubes working off one ballast, but actually, there are two ballasts
built into one case. Fixtures with four tubes, similarly, have four starters and four
ballasts. In some kinds of fixtures, the starters are built-in and cannot be individually
replaced. Since there are only three primary parts in a fluorescent lamp, you can
usually take care of any repairs yourself. All fluorescent lamps grow dimmer with
age, and they may even begin to flicker or flash on and off. These are warning signals,
and you should make the necessary repairs as soon as you notice any change in the
lamp's normal performance. A dim tube usually requires replacement, and failure to
replace it can strain other parts of the fixture. Likewise, repeated flickering or
flashing will wear out the starter, causing the insulation at the starter to deteriorate.

TO INSTALL A NEW FLUORESCENT TUBE, INSERT THE TUBE'S PRONGS INTO

THE HOLDER AND TWIST THE TUBE TO LOCK IT INTO PLACE. CHANGE THE
TUBE WHEN IT DIMS, FLICKERS, OR FLASHES ON AND OFF.

Fluorescent fixtures can be serviced quite simply by the replacement method. If you
suspect that a part may be defective, replace the part with a new one. Start with the
fluorescent tube or bulb. You can either install a new one or if you're not sure the
tube is burned out, test the old tube in another fluorescent fixture. Remove the old
tube by twisting it out of its sockets in the fixture. Install the new tube the same way
- insert the tube's prongs into the socket and twist the tube to lock it into place.

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TO INSTALL A STARTER IN A FLUORESCENT FIXTURE, SIMPLY INSERT THE
STARTER AND TWIST IT TO SECURE IT IN ITS SOCKET.

If the problem is not in the tube, try changing the starter. Fluorescent lamp starters
are rated by wattage, and it is important you use the right starter for the tube in your
fixture. Remove the old starter the same way you removed the old tube, by twisting
it out of its socket in the fixture. Install a new one by inserting it into the socket and
twisting it to lock it into place.

The ballast is also rated according to wattage, and a replacement ballast -- like a
replacement starter -- must match the wattage of the tube and the type of fixture.
The ballast is the least likely part to fail and most difficult to replace, so leave the
ballast for last when you start replacing parts. If neither the tube nor the starter is
defective, the problem must be the ballast.

To replace a faulty ballast, de-energize the circuit, disassemble the fixture, transfer
wires from the old ballast to the new one - one at a time, to avoid an incorrect
connection -- and, finally, reassemble the fixture.

If the tube, the starter, and the ballast are all working properly but the lamp still
does not light, check for a defective switch. If the lamp is controlled by a wall switch,
replace the switch, as detailed in the next section. If the lamp has a push-button
switch, the old switch can be replaced by a new one of the same type. To de-energize
the circuit before working on the switch, remove the circuit's fuse or trip the circuit
breaker.

In most cases, the switch screws into a threaded mounting nut on the inside of the
lamp. Two wires from the switch are connected, usually with wire nuts, to four wires
from the fluorescent tube. Disassemble the fixture as far as necessary to gain access
to the back of the switch, then screw in the new switch and transfer wires from the
old switch to the new one, one at a time to avoid an incorrect connection. Reassemble
the fixture and reenergize the circuit.

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 How to Replace Fluorescent Lights?

A fluorescent fixture has three main parts -- the bulb, ballast, and starter. When one
of these components’ malfunctions, replacement is usually the answer.
Cost-effective and powerful, fluorescent lights are a smart choice for many rooms in
your home. Here is how to install them.

Fluorescent lighting is inexpensive to run, but the light from standard tubes can look
cold and industrial. There are, however, ways to warm up fluorescents to make them
more suitable for home use. Tubes labeled "warm" or "full-spectrum" produce a
warmer light, while a translucent cover helps diffuse the light and reduce glare.

Replacing an incandescent fixture with a fluorescent one is relatively easy. If your

goal is simply to save energy costs, simply install a fluorescent bulb in an
incandescent fixture. Otherwise, an existing fluorescent light might have the cable
running directly into it with no electrical junction box. That is OK—usually, the
fixture's housing is considered adequate for protecting spliced wires. Because some
fluorescent fixtures are heavy and bulky, enlist a helper when removing or installing
one.

How to do it?
STEP 1: Loosen Fixture
Shut off power to the circuit. Remove the wire nuts and disconnect the house wires
from the fixture wires, or snip and re-strip them. Loosen and remove the locknut that
holds the cable clamp to the fixture.

STEP 2: Remove Screws

Remove the screws holding the fixture in place—usually, there are several driven into
ceiling joists. Support the fixture as it comes loose and guides the wires out through
the hole. Note the locations of the ceiling joists. Mark the new fixture to line up screws
with joists.

STEP 3: Open Knockout Hole

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With a hammer and screwdriver, open a precut knockout hole in the top of the
fixture, then twist off the piece with pliers. Thread the wires through the hole and
attach the cable clamp to the fixture with a locknut.

STEP 4: Mount Fixture

Have a helper hold the fixture against the ceiling. Drive the mounting screws into
joists.

STEP 5: Wire Fixture

Wire the fixture. Connect the ground wires together and to a grounding screw on the
fixture. Splice white fixture wire to white house wire and black to black. Install the
fixture tubes and cover.

THE FLUORESCENT LAMP ASSEMBLY TROUBLE SHOOTING & REPAIR

PROBLEMS PROBABLE CAUSES REMEDIES

1. Circuit (open or loss Check the circuit using the
contact) continuity for open or lost contact.
Visual check of the fluorescent tube if
2. Basted fluorescent backend or broken contact pin or
tube either side or open filament –
1. The lamp does
replaced.
not light.
Visual checked or using the
3. Basted fluorescent
continuity tester for broken, open, or
ballast
shorted – replaced.
4. No fluorescent
Put fluorescent starter.
starter
Visual check of the fluorescent tube if
2. The lamp gives
1. Basted fluorescent backend or broken contact pin or
off flickering
tube either side or open filament –
light.
replaced.

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 Visual check of the fluorescent starter
if it is broken or basted or the starter
2. Fluorescent starter
wattage not much to the fluorescent
tube and ballast.
Visual check of the fluorescent tube if
backend or broken contact pin or
1. Basted fluorescent
3. The fluorescent either side or open filament –
tube
lamp only glows replaced.
does not fully Visual check of the fluorescent starter
light. if it is broken or basted or the starter
2. Fluorescent starter
wattage not much to the fluorescent
tube and ballast.

6 Kinds of Electrical Outlets You Can Install in Your Home

If you are thinking about making electrical upgrades in your home, it is a good idea
to know which types of outlets you have and what options are available. Chances are
you know about smart outlets and outlets with integrated USB ports, but you might
be surprised at how many different outlets you can buy and install in your home. Of
course, they are all built for different situations, and you want to be sure your house
is equipped with the correct outlet for the job. Read on below to see six types of
outlets you can buy for your electrical upgrade.

1. GFCI outlets
A ground fault circuit interrupter, or GFCI for short, is
meant to quickly shut off an outlet’s power when it
detects a short circuit or ground fault. Normal electrical
flow happens when the current comes through the hot
wire and returns through the neutral wire, but if
electricity flows beyond that, the GFCI outlet will trip.

If you’re using a fault hairdryer, for example, and your

feet are wet, a short circuit from the hairdryer can cause
the current to pass through you, to your wet feet, and
into the ground, electrocuting you. A GFCI outlet kills power before the current
can remotely escape the hairdryer. Understandably, these outlets are pretty
much guaranteed to be found in houses nearby water sources.

GFCI outlets are typically more expensive than regular outlets but are required
to be installed in locations such as kitchens and bathrooms.

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2. AFCI outlets
Though it is not as well-known as a GFCI outlet, an AFCI
outlet looks very similar. Short for “arc fault circuit
interrupter,” it protects from arcs, which happen when
electricity jumps from one wire to another, which can
result in a fire.

Any modern house built after 1999 should have AFCI

circuit breakers installed at the circuit breaker box. If
you live in an older house, you can install the outlets at
the beginning of every circuit, which will protect all
outlets following in that circuit.

There are no requirements to add AFCI protection to existing circuits in older

homes, but if you plan on building an addition to your house and need more
circuits, they must be AFCI protected and up to code.

An arc-fault circuit interrupter (AFCI) also known as an arc-fault detection

device (AFDD) is a circuit breaker that breaks the circuit when it detects the
electric arcs that are a signature of loose connections in-home wiring. Loose
connections, which can develop over time, can sometimes become hot enough
to ignite house fires.

3. 20A outlets

With 20A circuits and 20A outlets, you can use more power-hungry devices
without the breaker tripping, because they can support 25% more load
compared to most other outlets. You will typically find 20A circuits and
breakers in kitchens, laundry rooms, and garages since most power-hogging
appliances are located in those areas.

But how can you tell if an outlet or circuit is rated at 20A? You can figure this
out by looking to see if the outlet has a small notch added into the left-side
prong opening. This means it is a 20A outlet and the circuit it is on is rated at
20A.

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4. Switch outlets

If you are looking to control the power of an outlet by turning it on and off
whenever you want, go for a switched outlet. It is a receptacle that includes
one outlet, and a switch that turns it on and off. This is suitable if you have
something plugged into an outlet, but you do not want it on the entire time.

You can also use this outlet to create your own switched extension cord, where
the cord itself will always have power, but you are adding on a second outlet
that is controlled with the switch.

5. USB outlets

By now, most of us wish outlets with integrated USB ports would come
standard in all houses. How convenient would that be? However, they are
difficult to find and are rarely installed by default in modern homes.
Fortunately, you can easily install them.

There are a variety of USB-equipped outlets available. A popular go-to option

is the ones that still come with two regular outlet receptacles but squeeze in
two USB ports for charging your mobile devices. You can also find one that
replaces both receptacles with four USB ports. Both outlets can charge your
devices up to 4 amps, so your mobile devices can charge at full speed.

Another option is to purchase a USB wall charger, so you do not have to do

any electrical work.

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 6. Smart outlets
If you want to take things to a completely new level,
grab yourself some smart outlets. They are like
regular outlets but can be controlled from your
smartphone. This means they can be turned on and
off from just about anywhere.

Smart outlet options include the Belkin We Mo

Switch and the Connect Sense, but these are
adapters you plug into a regular outlet. Instead, you
can get smart-enabled receptacles that can replace
any traditional outlet. Of course, this requires a
smart home hub, but if you are considering this
option, it is likely you already have one.

What’s More

Please do not forget to write the following on your answer sheet:

Name: _________________________ Yr. & Section: _______________
Yr. Level & Subject (Specialization): ___________ Module No: _____
Name of the Activity: What’s More Date: ______

Directions: Read each question/statement carefully. Identify what is being asked or

described. Write the letter of your answer on a separate sheet of paper.

1. These bulbs are highly efficient compared to incandescent bulbs.

A. Fluorescent bulb B. halogen lamp C. sodium lamp D. LED lamp
2. It consists of a glass tube with a phosphorus coating, a small amount of inert gas
(usually argon or krypton), mercury, and a set of electrodes.
A. Incandescent bulb B. fluorescent bulb C. sodium bulb D. halogen bulb
3. What device regulates the electricity used by the fluorescent bulb?
A. Switch B. Ballast C. circuit breaker D. stater
4. What do you call this coating inside the fluorescent bulb which causes the lamp
to illuminate?
A. Argon B. Phosphor C. Mercury D. xenon
5. As provided in the PEC, outlets and lightings circuit are _____________.
A. Commonly installed C. Separated
B. Connected together D. Tap together
6. What kind of electrical outlet can be controlled using a smartphone?
A. GFCI Outlet B. AFCI Outlet C. 20A Outlet D. Smart Outlet
7. What kind of outlet is meant to quickly shut off an outlet’s power when it detects
a short circuit or ground fault.
A. GFCI Outlet C. 20A Outlet
B. AFCI Outlet D. Smart Outlet

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8. This kind of outlet is usually located in kitchens, laundry rooms, and garages
since most power-hogging appliances are located in those areas.
A. GFCI Outlet B. AFCI Outlet C. 20A Outlet D. Smart Outlet
9. It is made of a fine coil to regulate the flow of current in the circuit in which, if not
controlled, will open the circuit breaker or fuse.
A. Starter B. Holder C. Ballast D. Switch
10. It refers to the amount of energy converted to visible light.
A. Efficacy B. Efficiency C. Effectivity D. Functionality

What I Have Learned

Please do not forget to write the following on your answer sheet:

Name: _________________________ Yr. & Section: __________________
Yr. Level & Subject (Specialization): ___________ Module No: _____
Name of the Activity: What I Have Learned Date: ______

Directions: Identify each of the following lighting fixtures and accessories.

1. 6.

2. 7.

3. 8.

4. 9.

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5. 10.

Assessment

Please do not forget to write the following on your answer sheet:

Name: _________________________ Yr. & Section: __________________
Yr. Level & Subject (Specialization): ___________ Module No: _____
Name of the Activity: Assessment Date: ______

Multiple Choice. Choose the letter of your answer and write it on a separate sheet
of paper. GOOD LUCK!

1. It consists of a tungsten filament enclosed in a glass-filled glass bulb.

A. Mercury vapor lamp B. Incandescent lamp C. Fluorescent lamp
2. It consists of a glass tube filled with argon gas & coated inside with a chemical
called phosphor which glows when struck by ultraviolet rays.
A. Mercury vapor lamp B. Incandescent lamp C. Fluorescent lamp
3. A lamp that is very ideal for outdoor advertising has no filament, but it contains
gas which gives out colored light when the current at pressure strikes it.
A. Neon lamp B. Sodium vapor lamp C. Light Emitting Diode lamp
4. This lamp is very effective in street lighting & highways.
A. Neon lamp B. Sodium vapor lamp C. Light Emitting Diode lamp
5. A lamp offers long service life and high energy efficiency, but initial costs are
higher than those of fluorescent & incandescent lamps.
A. Neon lamp B. Sodium vapor lamp C. Light Emitting Diode lamp
6. A part of the fluorescent lamp assembly that holds the bulb in place.
A. Ballast B. Starter C. Fluorescent holder
7. A part of a fluorescent lamp assembly that regulates the flow of electric current
in the circuit.
A. Ballast B. Starter C. Fluorescent holder
8. A part of the circuit connects and disconnects the wire.
A. Switch B. Appliances C. Path
9. An electrical device is used to hold and protect the lamp.
A. Lamp socket B. Lamp switch C. Lamp cord
10. Remedy for a fluorescent lamp having a flickering light.
A. Change the bulb B. Check starter if basted/low wattage C. Loss contact

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 Answer Key

LAMP REFLECTOR 10.

LED LAMP 9.
BALLAST 8.
USB OUTLET 7.
COMPACT LAMP 6.
FL LAMP HOLDER 5.
CIRCULAR FLUORECENT 4.
SWITCH OUTLET 3.
INCANDESCENT LAMP 2.
MERCURY VAPOR LAMP 1.
What I Have Learned

10. B
9. C
8. C
7. A
6. D
5. C
4. B
3. B
2. B
1. D
What’s More

References
Del Rosario, C. (n.d.). Practical Electricity for Philippine Secondary School.

Fajardo, M. et al. (n.d.). Electrical Layout and Estimate. Second Edition.

Online Sources:

https://encylopedia2.

The free dictionary.com

www.dreamstrime.com

www.merthnation.com

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