Journal of Ethnic Foods 5 (2018) 4e9

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Journal of Ethnic Foods

journal homepage: http://journalofethnicfoods.net

Review Article

Ketupat as traditional food of Indonesian culture

Angelina Rianti*, Agnes E. Novenia, Alvin Christopher, Devi Lestari, Elfa K. Parassih
Nutrition and Food Technology Study Program, Faculty of Life Science, Surya University, Tangerang, Banten, Indonesia

a r t i c l e i n f o a b s t r a c t

Article history: Indonesia has very diverse cultures and traditions. The majority of Indonesians are Muslims; therefore,
Received 15 October 2017 Indonesia has the largest Muslim population in the world. Cultures are strongly associated with religion;
Received in revised form one of them is the Indonesian tradition of eating ketupat during Eid Al-Fitr. Ketupat is a dish made from
29 December 2017
rice and is wrapped in young coconut leaves woven in a diamond shape. Ketupat was first introduced by
Accepted 4 January 2018
Available online 9 January 2018
an Indonesian theologian named Sunan Kalijaga who was an important figure for Muslims in Java. But,
eventually, the culture of consuming ketupat only during the Eid Al-Fitr is no longer prevalent. Every
region in Indonesia began to have its own distinctive culture in preparing and serving ketupat.
Keywords:
Culture © 2018 Korea Food Research Institute. Published by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the
Eid CC BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/).
Indonesian
ketupat
Muslim

1. Introduction Indonesian cultures are influenced by Islamic traditions. For

Indonesia has 33 provinces from Sabang to Merauke and has
various cultures. This makes Indonesia very rich in cultural ex-
pressions [1]. Cultures are considered precious and play an
important role in representing the national identity of
Indonesia. Culture means “budaya” in Indonesian, the word
“budaya” itself is derived from Sanskrit, “buddayah” which
means thought or intellectuality [2]. Generally, culture can be
defined as something that comes from thought or intellectuality
of humans which is developed and passed from generation to
generation.
Indonesian culture has to be respected and preserved as a na-
tional identity. It is disappointing that many developed countries
try to claim Indonesian culture as their indigenous culture without
any permission [1]. There is always a possibility that local culture
will be lost or even be redefined [3]. Therefore, it is our re-
sponsibility as young generation to protect and conserve Indone-
sian heritage, for it is a gift from our ancestors.
Culture has been strongly associated with religion. As
Indonesia has the largest Muslim population in the world, many
* Corresponding author. Taman Kebun Jeruk Intercon P3 No. 7, Jakarta Raya, West
Jakarta 11630 Indonesia.
E-mail address: angelina.rianti14@student.surya.ac.id (A. Rianti).
Muslims, Eid Al-Fitr is a big day for celebrating the New Year of
Islam [4]. After five days of Eid Al-Fitr festival, Muslims have a
tradition of eating ketupat. Ketupat symbolizes forgiveness and
blessings. Ketupat is usually eaten while visiting other family
members [5]. The tradition of eating ketupat is spread all over
Indonesia; moreover, every region has its own way of eating
ketupat. Ketupat has become a part of Indonesian food culture. The
authenticity of food culture is its essence and soul [3]. This article
will discuss the culture of ketupat from the point of view of history
and philosophy, preparation and consumption, and plant/herb
utilization during preparation.
2. Ketupat in general
Ketupat is a rice-based food that is wrapped in the webbing of
young coconut leaves or “janur” in Javanese language [6]. Ketupat
is cooked in boiling water for a long time, up to ±5 hours.
Glutinous rice is typically used as ketupat filling, and it could be
soaked in water containing pandanus leaves for 30 minutes
before being filled in a janur wrap to give a flavor to the rice. The
young coconut leaves can also be soaked in the water to avoid
ripping during webbing [7]. In Indonesia, ketupat is usually
served with some side dishes such as chicken curry, rendang, and
satay [6].

https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2018.01.001
2352-6181/© 2018 Korea Food Research Institute. Published by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/
licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/).
 A. Rianti et al / Journal of Ethnic Foods 5 (2018) 4e9 5

3. Ethnic perspective
3.1. History of ketupat
Ketupat was first introduced by Sunan Kalijaga, one of the nine
saints of Javanese Islam, in the 15the16th century, mainly in the
Demak regency located in Central Java (Fig. 1). Bakda Lebaran and
Bakda Kupat were developed by Sunan Kalijaga. Bakda Lebaran is
celebrated on the first day of Eid Al-Fitr by praying and
silaturahmi (visiting and chatting), whereas Bakda Kupat is cele-
brated a week after the day of Eid Al-Fitr [8]. Ketupat is very closely
associated with the tradition of Eid celebration and feast. During
Bakda Kupa, almost every house looks busy and the people
start weaving the coconut leaves in a diamond shape (Fig. 2). After
ketupat has been cooked and dried, it is gifted to neighbors/family/
relatives as a symbol of togetherness [9]. Ketupat has not only
spread in Java but also reached all over Indonesia and other
countries, such as Singapore, Malaysia, and Brunei. This is because
of the spread of Islamic religion. The spread of Islam has brought
with it one of the cultural traditions, that is, serving ketupat during
Eid feast [10].
3.2. Philosophies of ketupat
Ketupat symbolizes apology and blessing [11]. The main in-
gredients of ketupat are rice and young coconut leaves, which have
special meaning. Rice is considered a symbol of lust, while the leaf
stands for “Jatining nur” (true light) in Javanese, which means
conscience. Ketupat is described as the symbol of lust and con-
science; that is, humans must be able to hold the lust of the world
with their conscience [12].
In Sundanese, ketupat is also called “kupat,” which means that
humans are not allowed to “Ngupat,” which is talking about bad
things to others.
Ketupat or kupat is defined as “Jarwa dhosok,” which also means
“ngaku lepat.” In this case, it contains a message that someone
should apologize when they do something wrong. This behavior
has become a habit or tradition on the first Shawwal or Eid Al-Fitr,

Fig. 1. (A) Ketupat was first introduced in Central Java, one of the provinces in Indonesia and located in the middle of the island of Java. Source: commons.wikimedia.org. (B) Demak
is a regency located in Central Java, on the northern coast of the island. Owing to its strong relation with the spread of Islam in Java, it is sometimes called “a city of the saints”.
Source: d-maps.com.
6 A. Rianti et al / Journal of Ethnic Foods 5 (2018) 4e9
Fig. 2. The diamond shape of ketupat. The woven wrap is made using two pieces of
young coconut leaf. Young leaves are chosen because it is more flexible and easy to
be shaped. Coconut leaves can be found easily in Indonesia. Source: gettyimages.
com.
and the end of the fasting month is indicated by eating ketupat
along with several side dishes. Ketupat is used as a symbol of
confession to both God and human beings.
In addition to “ngaku lepat,” ketupat is also interpreted as “laku
papat.” Laku papat consists of four actions, namely lebaran, luberan,
leburan, and laburan. Lebaran, which means “width,” means the
door of apology has been opened wide. As humans forgive others,
they receive an abundance of blessing. The word “lebaran” also
means the month of fasting is over, and it is celebrated by eating
ketupat. Luberan means “abundant,” which gives a message to share
their assets with unfortunate people through charity.
Leburan stands for forgiving each other. All mistakes can be forgiven
on that day as humanity is required to forgive one another. “Labur”
in laburan means people are pure and free from human sins. In this
case, ketupat gives the message to maintain self-honesty. Therefore,
after carrying out leburan (forgiving each other), people have to
reflect good attitude and action [13].
Ketupat has several philosophies, from its woven form to side
dishes of ketupat. The complicated webbing of the wrapper de-
notes the human's mistakes. The filling of ketupat, that is the
white color of rice, reflects the cleanliness and purity of the
human's heart after forgiving others. The perfect diamond shape
of ketupat symbolizes victory of Muslims after a month of fasting
before Eid Al-Fitr. Based on an interview with one of the Javanese
culture experts, white rice is interpreted as a symbol of prosperity
and happiness (Fig. 3). The yellowish-green wrapper is considered
as one of the rejects of reinforcement or the rejects of bad luck.
The process of hanging a ketupat after being cooked in front of the
house is symbolized as one of the forms or traditions of repelling
evil spirits. Therefore, ketupat is often hung on the doorsteps to
prevent evil spirits from entering the house [14]. Ketupat is often
prepared in different ways, and one of them is using coconut milk
as a boiling medium instead of water. Coconut milk is a symbol of
apology. Coconut milk in Javanese is called “santen,” which means
“pangapunten” or apology. There is a Javanese poem that reads
“kulo lepat nyuwun ngapunten,” which means “I am sorry, I made a
mistake” [15].
An Indonesian anthropologist interpreted ketupat as one of the
symbols of social solidarity or reciprocal/give-and-take relation-
ship, known as the law of reciprocity. The reciprocal relationship is
related to the habit of giving ketupat to each other. The behavior of
giving indicates a mutual relationship between one person and
another. Such behavior signifies a social relationship because of
contact and communication with others that will lead to the atti-
tude of solidarity.
Ketupat is sometimes served as a complimentary offering in a
life-cycle ceremony to celebrate four months of pregnancy. If the
newborn child is a boy, offering ketupat signifies asking for a
Fig. 3. Ketupat is made of white rice covered by woven young coconut leaves in a
diamond shape. The wrapping, filling, and shape have their own special meaning. In
Indonesian tradition, ketupat is served by slicing it diagonally into two parts and then
cutting it into small pieces. Source: “Ketupat” on lifeinbigtent.com.
prosperous life. If the newborn child is a girl, the family wishes that
she have a beautiful and virtuous look [16].
4. Preparation and consumption
4.1. General traditional methods of cooking ketupat
Some ingredients and methods of food preparation represent an
intrinsic part of the identity of regional foods and is associated with
the people who consume it. To be considered traditional, a dish not
only has to contain traditional ingredients but also has to be pre-
pared in a traditional way, according to the traditional recipes [17].
Ketupat is a unique way of consuming a rice product. From the
various types of rice available in Indonesia, ketupat is made with
“pulen” rice, which has a smooth texture and is glutinous, with
moderate amylose content. Another variety of rice called “pera” is
also used in several regions in Indonesia. Pera is a rice variety with
high amylose content and has a hard texture; therefore, the indi-
vidual rice grains are easily separable [18]. Both the white rice va-
rieties used in Indonesia have long grains, whereas in Korea or
Japan, short-grain white rice is usually used daily. Short-grain rice
typically contains high amounts of amylopectin and less amount of
amylose. Previously, grain length was used to determine the
stickiness of the rice, with short grains thought to be usually sticky
and the long grains considered not sticky. Recent studies have
shown that rice containing high amylose content is usually harder
and less sticky, whereas rice containing low amylose content is
softer and sticky [19].
Ketupat is generally wrapped in young coconut leaves called
“anyaman janur” with a rhombic shape. The selected janur requires
two leaves that are long enough and has a width of 3e5 cm. The size
of leaves affects the resulting ketupat. Young coconut leaves are
yellowish, whereas old coconut leaves are green. In addition to the
right size, making ketupat requires young coconut leaves that are
taken from the top of the coconut tree. Young coconut leaves are
easily flexible and can form different shapes, whereas old coconut
leaves have a rigid texture, easily break apart and, therefore, are
difficult to use in the webbing process. The selected leaves are then
webbed or rolled to typical ketupat shapes, such as diamond,
rhombus, or triangle. The diamond webbing pattern consists of
leaves connected with each other. Further explanation of making
diamond webbing is provided in Fig. 4.
 A. Rianti et al / Journal of Ethnic Foods 5 (2018) 4e9 7

Fig. 4. Webbing process. The webbing material used is young coconut leaves. Two pieces of young coconut leaves are woven together so that they are connected to each other; this
is called “anyaman.” Diamond-shaped wrap of ketupat symbolizes complexity or the human's mistakes.

After the webbing process is completed, the next process is 4.2.1. Java
filling janur with rice that has been prepared before. Janur is filled Java Island is the first island that started the tradition of ketupat
one- to two-thirds with rice. If the rice filled is too little, ketupat in Indonesia. Java Island is one of the islands with the highest
has a mushy texture. If the rice filled is too much, ketupat has a population. Therefore, a variety of dishes originating in Java Island
hard texture. Ketupat is immersed in water until completely are easily spread to other regions with modifications. There are
soaked and boiled. Traditionally, boiling process takes up to various types of ketupat served with various side dishes based on
±5 hours until it is properly cooked. Ketupat is flushed with clean each region, ranging from West Java, Central Java, to East Java.
cold water to remove the remaining cooking water, and then
ketupat is hung up until dry to prevent deterioration. Ketupat can a. Central Java
be stored for at least 2 days in a cool place or longer if refrigerated.
Ketupat can be eaten cold or can be steamed first before cutting it Ketupat sumpil is one of Indonesia's typical food items, especially
open. Ketupat is sliced vertically or cut into cubes and served with in Central Java. The name ketupat sumpil comes from a snail-like
or without the leaf [5]. animal found in many rivers. The animal is often called “sumpil”
in Javanese. Because of similarity in size and shape of a small sumpil
to ketupat, the food is named ketupat sumpil. Ketupat sumpil in
4.2. Different ways of serving
Kaliwungu area is often served at Maulid Prophet Muhammad SAW
event. The shape of ketupat sumpil symbolizes the relationship
Consumption behavior in Indonesia has its own uniqueness.
between humans and God and the relationship between fellow
Indonesia has a variety of tribes and cultures that influences the
food preference in every region in Indonesia. One example of food
preferences in Indonesia is the different ways of cooking and
eating ketupat (Table 1). As mentioned earlier, ketupat can be
consumed with various dishes (Fig. 5), including food processed
with young coconut milk. However, each region in Indonesia has
other special dishes to be eaten along with their own ketupat
variety.

Table 1
Comparison of ways of serving ketupat in four different regions (Java, Bali, Sumatera,
and Kalimantan).

Region Details

Java In Central Java, ketupat is usually served in triangular-shaped

bamboo leaf wrapping along with grated coconut sambal. In
West Java, tofu is used as a side-dish for ketupat with special
sweet and savory sauce. In East Java, giant-sized ketupat is made
and served with tempeh and coconut milk.
Bali Ketupat seasoned with grounded peanut is a famous local dish
in Bali.
Sumatera In Sumatera, ketupat is usually made from sticky rice with
Fig. 5. Various types of side dishes for ketupat. Ketupat is usually consumed with
coconut milk.
dishes made with coconut milk, such as opor ayam and gulai. Each region in Indonesia
Kalimantan Kalimantan is famous for its ketupat made from regular white
has its own preference and taste about the dish to eat with ketupat. Source: “Cegah
rice with high amylose content and served with fish soup
Kenaikan Berat Badan Selama Libur Lebaran” on nationalgeographic.co.id.
8 A. Rianti et al / Journal of Ethnic Foods 5 (2018) 4e9
human beings. This tradition also aims to strengthen the relation-
ship between communities in Kaliwungu. Unlike in Kaliwungu,
ketupat sumpil is more often served during the feast of Eid Al-Fitr in
Purworejo and Kebumen. Ketupat is considered a special meal
because it is only available during the Eid Al-Fitr celebration.
Ketupat sumpil is commonly served during wedding celebration in
Temanggung. The people of Temanggung often regard ketupat
sumpil as a talisman [20].
b. West Java
In Sundanese, ketupat is commonly called “kupat.” Kupat is
served with tofu dishes, and it is well known as “kupat tahu.” Kupat
tahu is not only served in an after Eid Al-Fitr celebration but also
often included in a daily breakfast menu that consists of ketupat,
fried cut tofu, vegetables, bean sprouts, and peanut sauce, sprinkled
with crackers on top. Soy sauce and hot sauce or sambal can be
added to give a sweet and spicy flavor. Kupat tahu tastes better if the
peanut sauce is prepared fresh because it gives a fresh taste of
peanut [21].
c. East Java
In Malang, one of the cities in East Java, the famous ketupat
cuisine is “orem-orem.” Orem-orem is a giant diamond. Orem-orem is
approximately five times larger than the regular ketupat. Orem-orem
is served with coconut milk, bean sprouts, and small tempeh slices.
In addition, there are other items such as tempeh chips. The high
number of tempeh products used represents the cuisine of Malang,
which is the largest tempeh-producing region in Indonesia [22].
4.2.2. Bali
The majority of Balinese people are Hindu. They have different
philosophy than Muslims who cites ketupat as one of Muslim's
culture. In Balinese culture, ketupat is commonly called “tipat.” The
difference lies in the shape of the shell where tipat uses the square
shape and ketupat uses the triangle shape. Plain white rice is used
as an ingredient, similar to ketupat. Tipat is frequently presented as
a ritual dish, for example, on the auspicious day of Kajeng Kliwon by
Balinese Hindu people. Tipat is not only prepared on special occa-
sions but also consumed as a daily food along with other Balinese
dishes such as satay, grilled chicken, meatballs, and goat or chicken
soup [23].
4.2.3. Sumatra
In Sumatra, ketupat is made with some modifications. Sumatran
ketupat is made using various types of rice, and special spices are
added that give each dish its own characteristic. Some variations of
Sumatran ketupat are “ketupat bareh,” “katan kapau,” “palas,” and
“sipulut.” Ketupat bareh, from Minang, is made of white glutinous
rice that when boiled with coconut milk results in a savory taste.
Katan kapau is made of sticky rice that is cooked with spiced co-
conut milk. Katan, or in Indonesian “ketan,” means sticky rice.
Similar to katan kapau, palas is made of sticky rice and is usually
consumed with rendang. Sipulut comes from West Sumatra and is
made of black sticky rice. Similar to palas, sipulut is often consumed
with rendang.
4.2.4. Kalimantan
The capital city of South Kalimantan, Banjarmasin, has a famous
ketupat dish named “ketupat kandangan.” People consume it on
special occasions, and it can be easily found in Banjarmasin or other
cities in South Kalimantan. This leads ketupat kandangan to be
considered a culinary icon of Banjarmasin.
Ketupat kandangan is usually served with striped snakehead fish
(Channidae). For local people, ketupat kandangan has to be eaten
with striped snakehead fish. They say that there is no ketupat
kandangan, unless it is eaten within striped snakehead fish. The
name “kandangan” itself is derived from Kandangan, an area in
South Kalimantan that produces striped snakehead abundantly
[24].
Ketupat kandangan is made of nonsticky rice called
“pera.” People in Kalimantan prefer consuming nonsticky rice,
which is rich in amylose [25]. Ketupat kandangan and striped
snakehead fish are eaten with Banjar-style soup using hands
without a spoon or fork. It is believed that eating ketupat kandangan
in this style results in increased sensations [26].
4.2.5. Ketupat from other countries
Ketupat is a part of Indonesian traditional cuisine. But ketupat is
no longer available only in Indonesia and has been adopted by other
countries over time. The main purpose of eating ketupat in other
countries is to celebrate Eid, especially Eid Al-Fitr. Brunei, Malaysia,
Philippines, and Singapore are countries where ketupat is known
and eaten routinely during every Eid celebration. Ketupat has also
become a symbol of Eid celebration, with its images shown in
festive greeting cards and television programs [27].
5. Plant/herb utilization in the cuisine
Ketupat is made from two materials derived from plants, namely
coconut leaves as a wrapper and glutinous rice as the main ingre-
dient. The type of coconut leaves used is a young coconut leaf,
which is also known as “janur” in Indonesian language.
“Janur” has its own meaning for the people of Java. The Javanese
people interpret “janur” as “sejatining nur” with a meaning of “true
light.” It is believed by the Javanese that light is the source to see
good and bad things in everyday life. Coconut trees are called Cocos
nucifera in latin. The leaf has a yellowish green to green color. Young
coconut leaves have become the identity of ketupat because it is
used to wrap the contents of a ketupat by forming a certain shape,
such as a diamond[11].
Glutinous rice is used in ketupat as a filling in a diamond
shape made from coconut leaves. Glutinous rice is also of the Oryza
sativa species. Glutinous rice is grown mainly in Southeast and East
Asia and the eastern parts of South Asia. Glutinous rice has a unique
characteristic mainly because the grain is opaque. It is called
glutinous (glu  tino
sus) because it is glue-like or sticky but does not
mean it contains gluten. Glutinous rice is distinguished from other
types of rice by the absence of (or the presence of negligible
amounts of) amylose and the presence of high amounts of amylo-
pectin (the two components of starch) [28]. Amylopectin is
responsible for the sticky quality of glutinous rice, and it provides
more chewiness than regular rice [11]. Glutinous rice lacks the
starch amylose, which constitutes up to 30% of the total starch in
nonglutinous rice endosperm [29].
6. Conclusion
Ketupat is a part of the Indonesian food culture. Ketupat plays an
important role in Eid Al-Fitr celebration. Although ketupat is
formerly known as one of Muslim's celebration food, it has spread
to almost all areas in Indonesia. Each area has its own culture and
uses creativity to prepare and serve ketupat. Because there are very
limited data available on ketupat, further studies on ketupat and its
development as a cultural work that produces something with an
artistic value or as a cultural expression that symbolizes a meaning
or a good message are necessary. Thus, the ketupat needs to be
promoted to increase the cultural treasures of the nation.
 A. Rianti et al / Journal of Ethnic Foods 5 (2018) 4e9
Conflicts of interest
The authors have no conflicts of interest to declare.
Appendix A. Supplementary data
Supplementary data related to this article can be found at
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2018.01.001.
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