The ULTIMATE Guide to Buying a New or Pre-Owned Vehicle

“TOP SECRETS of the Car Business – EXPOSED!”

“WISDOM is the MAIN/KEY/ESSENTIAL/PRINCIPAL thing; therefore,

Get WISDOM, and with ALL of your getting, get UNDERSTANDING.”

(Proverbs 4:7)

D. Solomon

Solomon Legacy Publishing, LLC

 Table of Contents

Dedications - pg 2

Foreword - pg 5

Chapter 1 - How to Get a Great Deal on a New Vehicle with Only 8 Simple Words - pg 8

Chapter 2 – How to Get the Best Deal on a Pre-Owned Vehicle - pg 18

Chapter 3 – Should You Buy or Lease Your Next Vehicle? - pg 26

Chapter 4 – How to Get Cash Back at Closing with Your Next Vehicle – up to $10,000+ - pg

32

Chapter 5 – How to Get a Better Interest Rate – Regardless of Your Credit Situation - pg 39

Chapter 6 – Tips to Help Get Your Loan Application Approved and a Better Interest Rate - pg

48

Chapter 7 – Understanding the Difference in Bank Financing and “In-House” Financing -

pg 54

Chapter 8 – How to Negotiate a Great Car Deal Over the Phone - pg 58

Chapter 9 – The Final Step – Reviewing Your Paperwork - pg 69

Chapter 10 – Inside the “Play Book” of an Auto Dealership: “Top Secrets Exposed!” - pg

72

Chapter 11 – Miscellaneous “Gold Nuggets” of Knowledge - pg 75

3
 Dedications:

This book is dedicated to my beautiful and precious daughter, Hannah Danielle Solomon. YOU

are the INSPIRATION that made me FINALLY write this book. Having you has been one of the

GREATEST sources of JOY and LOVE I have EVER known, and it is with sincere prayer as well

as with God's blessing that this little manual will help establish the beginning of a BLESSED NEW

LIFE for YOU – and for US. I am SOOOOOOO BLESSED and THANKFUL to have such a

smart, strong, and “ALL-THE-WAY-AWESOME” little Princess like YOU. You never cease

to AMAZE me – and I LOVE YOU to LIFE! Our “BESTEST” years are still ahead of us.

AAAAAAAMEN!!! MMMMWWAAAAAHHH!!!

To my mom, Bernice Solomon, I just have to say THAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAANK YOU –

for EVERYTHING. You have ALWAYS been my BEST FRIEND, even when I didn't deserve to

have a TRUE FRIEND like YOU. Every child should be BLESSED to have a mom as sweet and

patient and forgiving and strong as YOU . If they did, I'm sure the whole world would be much

better place to live. You taught me how to show love and how to be quick to forgive. You showed

me my first and best example of the TRUE LOVE of Y'shua/Jesus Christ. You STILL have NO

IDEA just how much GREATNESS lies within YOU. I pray that GOD ALMIGHTY will look

upon you and smile and that Our Heavenly Father will continue to keep and protect and provide for

you. May HE BLESS you with more PEACE, JOY and LOVE than you could ever imagine – in

this life – and in the next. I Love you, MOMMA.

To my dad, Billy “King” Solomon, although you are no longer with us, YOU laid the foundation

for me to be able to write this manual. Through your 25+ years of experience and endurance in the car

business, one of the toughest professions of all, you helped pave the way for Black Sales Professionals
in Middle Georgia. You were a “true pioneer” in MANY ways, and you were a “living legend” -

one of the LAST of the “REAL ONES” - and YOU WILL NEVER BE FORGOTTEN. Some of

the BEST times in my life were days and moments spent with YOU. I Love you, “Pops.”

To EVERYONE who reads this booklet, I pray that this guide will provide ALL the information

you will EVER need to help you get a GREAT DEAL on a new or pre-owned vehicle. I hope this

guide provides you with the Knowledge, Understanding and Wisdom you need to FINALLY be able

to beat the car dealers at their own game – and SAVE a WHOLE LOTTA MONEY! I look forward

to hearing from YOU when you get YOUR GREAT CAR DEAL!

In the tradition of saving THE BEST for last, I want to thank my Heavenly Father and my Lord

and Saviour, Jesus/Y'shua – THE CHRIST. I THANK YOU for YOUR AMAZING GRACE

and MERCY, which have followed me all of my life. THANK YOU for YOUR FORGIVENESS

and UNFAILING LOVE - and for ALWAYS being with me through the tough times and heartaches.

THANK YOU for the HARD TIMES and the HARD LESSONS that HAD to be learned along the

way, because some of those lessons helped to inspire this little book. I pray that YOU will keep filling

this vessel with YOUR HOLY SPIRIT, and using me to do YOUR WILL, for the GREATER

GOOD. Most of all, Lord, keep me HUMBLE and FULLY AWARE that ANY GOOD thing that is

done THROUGH me – is a BEAUTIFUL and UNDESERVED BLESSING from YOU.

“Let EVERYTHING that has breath PRAISE THE LORD –

Praise ye THE LORD!”

(Psalm 150:6)
 FOREWORD

First and foremost, I want to THANK YOU for purchasing and then reading and applying the skills

you will learn from this booklet. It is my deepest desire that you find the information you receive

in these pages to be worth AT LEAST 3000X MORE than what you paid for it. (that's right – I said

3,000 times more – AT LEAST!) For most people, their vehicle purchase is the 2nd largest

purchase they will EVER make, other than their home, and it is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that

you know how to handle this transaction THE RIGHT WAY. If you DON'T, it can easily cost you

THOU-$AND$ and THOU$AND$ of dollars and A LOT of unnecessary headaches and frustration, as

it can take several YEARS to “un-do” the results of just ONE bad car deal. It is my goal, in these

few pages, to show you HOW to negotiate your next car deal – and ALL of your future car deals –

like a TRUE PRO – knowing EXACTLY what information you need to have, so YOU can beat

the car dealers at their own game – EVERY TIME – even if you don't have perfect credit. Once

you master THIS information, you will NEVER buy your vehicles the same.

In my almost 20 years of buying and selling cars for myself and working for automobile dealerships

(PLUS over 25 years of my dad's experience as a MASTER Car Salesman and Sales Manager), I've

come to realize that MOST people DO NOT know how to buy a car THE RIGHT WAY, and, VERY

OFTEN, the lack of this CRUCIAL KNOWLEDGE costs them – BIG TIME! What's even worse

is that the people who actually get the WORST DEALS usually THINK they've gotten a pretty good

one, even though they may have just gotten their “head knocked off” for $10,000 - $20,000+

in PROFIT!
 Hey, I'm not saying that there's anything wrong with a car dealer making profit on a vehicle;

THEY HAVE TO MAKE A PROFIT to stay in business. WE ALL understand that, but, trust me,

sometimes the profit made on a single car deal, for a “common vehicle” - like a Nissan Maxima,

Dodge Charger, Ford F-150 or even a Hyundai Sonata - can be ABSOLUTELY RIDICULOUS!

Believe me. I've seen car deals done for OVER $30,000 in PROFIT on vehicles just like these –

even with customers who had GOOD credit.

ALL of these folks could have easily negotiated their deal the right way and saved themselves

almost every dime of that profit; and I mean, like $29,000+, IF they only knew the right information.

A LOT of times, these folks left the dealership HAPPY and went home bragging to their friends and

family about the “hard bargain” they negotiated. On other occasions, some of these folks would

show up at the dealership a few days later – MAD as a mutha's father – when they finally realized

how baaaaaaad of a “shafting” they got. Either way, you really can't blame the car dealership;

they are in business for ONE reason, and, generally speaking, that reason is NOT to help you get a

great car deal. Their reason – their job - their agenda is to maximize their profit – ALL day,

EVERY day - and believe me, they do not get this fact confused – EVER. I've seen dealers make

$20,000+ in profit on deals for their parents, siblings, closest friends and even their pastors. So, if

you're willing to pay $5,000 or $10,000 or $15,000 or even $20,000+ OVER Sticker Price or Book

Value for a vehicle –

or if you allow them to virtually steal your trade-in by giving you waaaaaaay less than it's worth –

or if you let them overcharge you for your interest rate or sales tax or use any other “trick” to fool

you, then they will DEFINITELY let you get a horrible car deal. That's just the way the car business
works, ya'll. The WORSE a car deal is for YOU – the MORE money it makes for them.
 In all honesty ya'll, if you get a bad car deal in this “information age gone bananas”, then it

would really be your own fault. I don't mean to sound harsh here folks, but you've got to understand

that it IS NOT the car dealer's job to educate you about how to purchase a vehicle OR to make sure

that you know how to do basic, 5th grade math (and you ARE smarter than a 5th grader). It's their

job to make as much money on your car deal as you let them. It's your responsibility and duty to

educate yourself and to know exactly what you're doing when you go to a dealership to buy a vehicle,

because there can be a whole lotta money on the line in a car deal – with most of it being YOURS!

The BOTTOM LINE is simple; there IS a RIGHT WAY - and a WRONG WAY - to buy

a vehicle, and I am going to show you how to do it THE RIGHT WAY – simple and easy –

EVERY TIME. Enjoy, and if you find this book to be a USEFUL TOOL, please recommend

it to your friends and family members, and tell them that they should DEFINITELY buy and read

this book BEFORE they buy their next vehicle. Again, I sincerely Thank You.
 Chapter 1

How to Get a GREAT DEAL on a New Vehicle

with Only 8 Simple Words:

 First of all, I very rarely recommend buying any brand new vehicle – if ever - because they are

expensive, quickly depreciating items that MOST people only keep for a few years anyway.

So, most of the people who “buy” brand new vehicles never actually experience the joy of truly

“owning” them anyway. They just get to pay several thousand dollars more for the “privilege”

of driving a brand new car. Incidentally, even a brand new vehicle is ONLY considered to be “brand

new” for about as long as it takes you to drive it home from the dealership. After that, it's just a very

slightly used - USED car. However, if you want to know how to buy one the right way, I'll show

you how to do it – simple and easy. In fact, negotiating a new car deal is sooooo easy to do when

you know the right information that anyone can walk into a dealership and get a GREAT price

on brand new vehicle. You just need to know the 8 SIMPLE WORDS that will get you the BEST

PRICE – EVERY time – with NO haggling and NO headaches.

Before I give you those 8 “magic words”, let me emphasize why I DO NOT recommend buying

brand new cars in the first place. For the most part, brand new vehicles are just BAD investments.

In fact, they are not true investments at all, and this is why. You see, with a true investment, you

have an expectation of getting at least a little more money back than you started with, right?
I mean, you wouldn't invest $40,000 in a stock if you were 99.9% SURE it would only be worth about

$7,000 – $10,000 in 7 years, with ZERO CHANCE of it EVER going back up in value, WOULD

YOU? Well, unless you happen to buy a vehicle that becomes a “must-have” classic or an antique,

you will almost never get more for a brand new car than you paid for it; in fact, you will ALMOST

ALWAYS get A LOT, LOT LESS. And even while you're still making payments on it, a brand new

vehicle will almost NEVER be worth as much as you owe on it, especially if you finance it long-

term, meaning longer than over about 48 months, and if you don't put a significant amount of money

down and/or get a REALLY GREAT price AND interest rate when you buy it. What this means is

that you will ALMOST ALWAYS be “upside-down” or “underwater” in your auto loan when

you buy a brand new vehicle – and even if you pay the vehicle off, it will typically only be worth a

small fraction of what you spent to have the “privilege” of eventually owning it.

If you don't believe me, check it out and verify it for yourself. Here's how you can just that. First,

think of ANY vehicle that you believe will hold its value exceptionally well, and do a little bit of

a price comparison between a brand new one and a very slightly used one. Go to a major auto

shopping website, such as Autotrader.com, and find the best advertised price for that vehicle brand

new. Then find the best price for that SAME vehicle – pre-owned – for the SAME year and model

or maybe just ONE YEAR older – with under 10,000 miles. In almost EVERY case, you will be

SHOCKED to see just how much value new cars lose – in a hurry! In some cases, we're talking

about vehicles that are well over $100,000 brand new that can be purchased for half of their original

price or LESS – still in IMMACULATE condition - just a few years later! After you see how

much value these top-notch vehicles lose, then I want you to do the same research for the specific
vehicle
that YOU'RE thinking about buying brand new. I want you to find the best deal you can find for your

vehicle brand new, and then go and find the best deal you can find for the exact same vehicle – in the

same model year or just one year older – and see the big difference in price for yourself. Then, YOU

decide whether or not you REALLY want to buy a brand new vehicle. It's your money; you do what

you want to do, but for ME and MY money, I hope to always buy my vehicles pre-owned, with

enough extended warranty to equal or surpass the original warranty that was available for a brand new

one – and STILL save a lot of money! For me, the more money I have, the more reason I would

have to buy my vehicles pre-owned. I mean, WHY NOT get TWO BENTLEY'S for the price of

one??

I'm kinda figuring my future wife is probably gonna want one too, and that saves me about $250K.

If you just ABSOLUTELY MUST have a brand new vehicle, then there are a few, key things you

MUST know. First of all, THE MOST IMPORTANT factor in the “car buying equation” is the

PRICE – NOT the payment. One of the biggest and most common mistakes people make when

they buy vehicles is that they negotiate based on PAYMENT. This is a HUGE mistake, because there

are

A LOT of ways a Finance Manager can manipulate the numbers to make your payment acceptable.

And when you play the “meet my payment” game, you will ALMOST ALWAYS allow yourself to

be “bumped up” to a higher payment – even if it's only by $10 or $20 a month. Think about that

for

a moment; if you negotiate based on payment, and you then allow yourself to be “bumped” up

another $20/mo – which is TOO EASY to agree to do – then you would be agreeing to pay an

additional $20
a month – for 48, 60 or even 75 months – or MORE. Now, YOU do the math; that's an

additional $960, $1,200 or $1,500+ that you would have agreed to pay, by accepting a payment that

is just $20 more per month.

 You'd better believe that the car dealerships understand this math very well– so if they can ever

get you to negotiate your deal based on payment – not price – then you will lose – almost every

time! You ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS want to negotiate your car deal based on price – NOT

payment. Now, you just need to know how to get the best price on a brand new car. When you get

right down to it, it's really as easy as knowing EIGHT SIMPLE WORDS, which I will share with

you shortly. But first, let me tell you why most folks don't get the best price when they negotiate their

deal on a new vehicle.

The FIRST mistake most people make when negotiating the price of a new vehicle is that they

start off working from the wrong price, which is the M.S.R.P., you know, the price that's on the

stickers on the vehicle you're looking to buy. Most people try to work their deal from “sticker price

down”, meaning they try to get money reyyyyyyyyyy0000000000000000000yhhduced from the

sticker price. This is absolutely the wrong way to get the BEST price for a new vehicle, and when

you know the 8 WORDS, YOU WON'T EVER make this mistake.

The 8 WORDS are broken down into two sentences, and both of these sentences direct the focus

of the negotiation to PRICE, not payment. The first sentence that will IMMEDIATELY cut you

through all of the back and forth bull$#!+ and get you to the BEST PRICE consists of FOUR

simple words, and they are “SHOW ME THE INVOICE.” For most vehicles at most dealerships,

the dealer MUST show you the invoice for any new vehicle you choose – although it may be

reluctantly – IF YOU KNOW to ASK to SEE IT. They may even try to get you off the subject of

the invoice, because they know that once you “go there”, you have pretty much taken away ALL of
their
bargaining power. If a dealer refuses to show you the invoice, you should just leave, because that

dealer is trying to trick you. Even when they do show you the invoice, make sure the Vehicle

Identification Numbers match, because a car dealer will try to show you an invoice for a higher

priced vehicle. As a FINAL PRECAUTION, you will probably also want to go a reputable website,

like Edmunds.com, to enter the VIN for the vehicle you want to buy, and get your own printout

of the invoice. In most cases, these invoice amounts should match EXACTLY, with some minor

allowance for discrepancy due to the shipping cost amount. THIS is the PRICE you want to use

to negotiate your car deal, and then you will make an offer that is BELOW the Invoice Price.

THE SECOND MISTAKE most people make when they go to buy a new car is they DO NOT

KNOW ALL of the rebates and incentives that are available for the vehicle they intend to buy –

as of THAT DAY – NOT just what they saw on TV or in the newspaper a few days or weeks ago.

This information is readily available on almost every manufacturer's website, yet most folks don't

bother to look up this information for themselves before they go to buy a new car. TRUST ME

when I tell you that the dealerships HOPE and PRAY you don't know what the rebates and

incentives are, because, when you don't, THEY get to keep this money – and this can easily be

THOUSANDS of dollars. And, oh yeah, DO NOT TRUST the dealer to tell you ALL of the

available rebates and incentives – EVEN IF you ask for it. This is some information that you’re

just gonna have to look up FOR YOURSELF – IF you want to know the TRUE amount of

discounts you're entitled to get. So, the second sentence and the OTHER 4 WORDS you need to

know to get

a great car deal are “WHAT ARE THE INCENTIVES”? Just remember that this is a question

you will have to ask – and answer – for yourself.

 Once you have a copy of the invoice and know ALL of the available rebates and incentives for the

vehicle you want to buy, you are in total control of the price negotiation phase of getting

a great car deal. Depending on how aggressive you want to be, you should make your price offer

based on the invoice price. You can make an offer that is BELOW the Invoice Price, and I strongly

recommend that you do just that. Depending on the time of the year and the type of vehicle,

you can make what would seem to be a “ridiculous offer” that is as much as $1,000 BELOW

invoice price, but usually, an offer of $300 - $500 below invoice is considered to be very aggressive..

Believe me, when you make a car dealer a price offer that is BELOW the invoice price, they will

know that YOU mean business, and that YOU know exactly what you're doing.

Where your deal gets SUPER SWEET is when you SUBTRACT the rebates from the “ridiculous

offer” that you get accepted as your purchase price. THAT'S RIGHT! After you negotiate your

price as close to the Invoice Price as possible - or even BELOW it - you STILL get to DEDUCT

ALL applicable rebates and incentives from THAT low price! Do you see how EASY that is to do –

IF you know the information you REALLY need to know – and when you make getting the BEST

PRICE your main objective? Isn't that simple enough? Now, you know exactly how to get

a GREAT PRICE on a brand new car – EVERY TIME – and this part, my friends, is a HUGE

part of getting a GREAT car deal, but there is still much more to learn.

There ARE certain times of the year and of the month that are the best times to get a great price

on a new car. Although the M.S.R.P. and the invoice prices don't change, the rebates, incentives and

the dealer's motivation to sell vehicles do change. Usually, the rebates are going to be at their
ABSOLUTE BEST at the end of the year, because, the manufacturers are trying to make room for the

next model year's vehicles. If you notice, the rebates will usually start getting bigger and bigger

after Labor Day, and they will continue to get bigger up until December 31. Sometimes, but not

always, the rebates will get even BIGGER as you roll into January and February, as the manufacturers

and dealerships scramble to get rid of any remaining vehicles from the previous year's inventory.

These rebates don't always get bigger, because some manufacturers will just count last year's business

as last year's business, and they will just move on to the next “calendar year” in their business cycle,

allowing those vehicles to sell whenever they sell.. Another downside to waiting until early in the next

year to buy your new vehicle is that the selection will usually be pretty limited, but if you're just

wanting a new vehicle - at the “ROCK-BOTTOM” BEST PRICE, then it just may be well worth

the wait for you.

If you can't wait until the end of the year or until early into the next year to buy your new car, then

the BEST time for you to purchase your vehicle will be at the VERY END of ANY month, especially

the LAST 3 DAYS, as dealerships try to meet their monthly quotas for units and profit. New car

dealerships get A LOT of MONEY from the manufacturers for meeting these quotas, and these quotas

are usually tied to the number of units sold, not necessarily the amount of profit the dealership makes.

Because of their incentive to reach their unit quota, the last 3 days of a month tend to be days that a

dealership already has an idea of its profitability for the month – and will know HOW MUCH

MONEY THEY CAN AFFORD TO LOSE on a few car deals in order to sell enough units to reach

their quota. That's right! Dealerships WILL and DO actually LOSE MONEY to sell a new car –

just not very often – and ONLY for those who know how to get them down to the BEST PRICE.
 One more thing you may have to consider is whether to take the BIG REBATE or the SPECIAL

FINANCING that may be offered for the vehicle you're considering buying. This is easy to

determine. All you need to do in this case is to consider the Total of Payments, and there are 2 ways

to do this. The first way is to get a print-out of your figures BOTH WAYS – with the big rebate and

with the special finance rate. Then you just do the math by multiplying the payment by the number

of months you would be financing the vehicle, and see which number is less. Or, if both options are

for the exact same number of months to be financed, you can simply go with the option that has the

lower payment, because it will be the option that has the lower Total of Payments. This is one of the

ONLY times that it's okay to focus on the payment, and not just the price. That's simple enough,

right?

Oh, yeah! There's one more thing you should consider, and that is SAVING the TEST DRIVE

until AFTER you have negotiated your deal. There's a psychological reason for this. It's because test

driving a new or newer vehicle is an EMOTIONAL experience, and the dealerships KNOW that if

you ABSOLUTELY LOVE the test drive – and the “bonding” experience that a professional

salesperson can create during that time (the casual conversation IS NOT done just “by chance”) –

then you are MUCH MORE LIKELY to be ILLOGICAL when it comes time to negotiate your deal

– ESPECIALLY if you REALLY like the vehicle. Not only does handling the process this way take

away some power the dealerships hope to use AGAINST you, it also gives you the opportunity

MAKE YOUR GREAT DEAL EVEN BETTER if there is ANYTHING wrong with the vehicle that

shows itself during the test drive.

 When you finally do take that test drive, you wanna “drive that baby like you stole it.” You

should take a VERY RIGOROUS test drive, allowing yourself plenty of time to take the vehicle out

in several different driving situations, similar to YOUR everyday driving use (overnight, if necessary).

If you drive on the interstate a lot, you should take it on the interstate to see what that vehicle can

REALLY do. Likewise, you should do the same if your everyday driving consists mostly of city

driving. If it is pre-owned vehicle, I ALWAYS RECOMMEND that you stop by one of the major

chain auto parts stores that offers FREE DIAGNOSTIC CHECKS and have one done. If the check

reveals any “codes”, at least you will know about it BEFORE you buy the vehicle, AND you will

have more “ammo” to use in your negotiation. If the vehicle you're considering buying is very

different for you, and you JUST HAVE TO take it for a test drive to even KNOW whether or not you

want to negotiate a deal for it, then GO AHEAD and take a VERY SHORT test drive – preferably

NOT leaving the dealer's parking lot – just ENOUGH to get a FEEL for the vehicle but NOT

ENOUGH to get too excited about it.

Remember, you MUST keep YOUR cool during this process – NO MATTER HOW MUCH

you LOVE the vehicle you're looking to buy. Sometimes you will have to know how to ACT AS IF

features the vehicle has that YOU WANT and LOVE are NOT THAT IMPORTANT to you. For

example, even if you prefer a stick-shift, and the vehicle you're considering IS a stick-shift, you DO

NOT let the dealer KNOW that it's your preference. YOU should ACT AS IF you will ACCEPT it,

but ONLY IF the DEAL is GREAT. Or, if the vehicle has some SUPER SHARP, after-market

wheels on it, YOU should ACT AS IF you prefer factory wheels. If it has cloth, and you WANT

cloth, then you should ACT AS IF you prefer leather, but you would ACCEPT cloth – for a GREAT
DEAL. The same is true for options like SUNROOFS, GPS, VEHICLE COLOR, etc.

NO MATTER HOW MUCH YOU LOVE a feature or option, you should NEVER let the car

dealer KNOW it. Do you see how that works – to YOUR benefit?
 Chapter 2

How to Get the Best Deal on a Pre-Owned Vehicle:

 There's a saying in the car business that “there's no such thing as a used car factory”, meaning

that there is NO EXACT SCIENCE to determining what the cost will be - for them or you - to buy a

pre-owned vehicle. It's not like buying a new car, where you have an invoice and advertised rebates

and incentives that let you know exactly what the dealer's cost is for the vehicle you're trying to buy.

However, there IS enough information available for you to determine – with a good amount of

certainty – what is a very fair price for ANY pre-owned vehicle. The best part about what I will

teach you here is that it WILL NOT require you doing weeks and weeks of research and price

comparisons; it's just NOT that difficult. In fact, with the technology that is available today, you can

get a GREAT DEAL on a car that you just happen to see on your way home from work or one that

you see listed on a website or in a classified ad. You just have to know WHICH tools to use –

and HOW to use them to YOUR advantage. Don't worry though; I've gotcha covered here too.

There's another saying in the car business that states that “buying a car is an emotional decision,

backed by logic”. What that means to you is that the people at the car dealership COUNT ON YOU

BEING EMOTIONAL – NOT LOGICAL – in your purchase decision. In fact, they KNOW that

the more illogical they can get you to be – or the more they can get you to see things according

to THEIR logic – the MORE MONEY they can make off of YOU! You see, they count on finding
your “hot buttons” and finding a car that you just LOVE SOOOOO MUCH that you just HAVE

TO HAVE IT, as long as they can make your PAYMENT “affordable.” If you fall for that

“trap”,

then you will have just set yourself up to get a TERRIBLE CAR DEAL. The good news is that even

if you find a vehicle that you just LOVE, you can STILL use the information that is available to make

sure you don't get “ripped off” in the deal. THE MAIN THING you have to do when you're buying

a pre-owned vehicle is to remember that, unless you're looking to buy a VERY RARE vehicle, then

there are usually PLENTY of them out there – and THAT is where you get to use our “free

market” system to your fullest advantage - by making the dealer or individual compete against

someone else to earn YOUR business.

There a few websites that I highly recommend, and I will show you how to use them for your

optimum benefit. These sites have not paid me for an endorsement; these are just sites that I HAVE

USED for YEARS and have found to be the BEST places to find the BEST INFORMATION –

quickly and easily. If you've already found the car you want to buy and just need to know if you're

getting a good deal, the FIRST site I recommend you to use to check the value of a vehicle is Kelly

Blue Book.com. The next site is NADA.com. Between these two websites, you will be able to
enter the information about the vehicle you want to buy - and to find out what the most accurate

“book values” are. I recommend Kelly Blue Book.com a little more, as they are more widely

known by the general public, and they've recently added a feature that actually gives you a “Fair

Price Range”

for the vehicle you're considering.

When using either of these websites, it is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that you ENTER THE

CORRECT INFORMATION – meaning the miles, ALL of the options, and whatever “trim” or

“package” the vehicle may have. And DO NOT TRUST a print-out you get from a dealership; if

they give you one, MAKE SURE that ALL of the information they entered for the vehicle is correct

and ONLY includes the options and “packages” that can be easily verified and confirmed. And

YES,

the dealers WILL ADD OPTIONS AND PACKAGES in the print-out they give you about the car

you're considering to inflate its value. If you're trading a vehicle, you will also want to know what

these sites show as the “trade-in” value for your vehicle – usually in NO BETTER than GOOD

condition - unless your vehicle has less than 20k miles and TRULY is in EXCELLENT condition.

Other sites that I highly recommend are Autotrader.com and Craigslist. I highly recommend

these websites, because one of the things that dealers are quick to say when you take them print-outs

from either Kelly Blue Book or NADA.com is that “you can't buy a car from those websites.”

With Autotrader and Craigslist, you actually CAN buy a vehicle, and you get to see what REAL

PEOPLE are asking for THE SAME vehicle, or, at least, one that is very similar. An important thing
to remember when using Autotrader is to expand your search – for AT LEAST 300 – 500 miles.

Even if you have no intention of leaving your own town to buy your car, the dealership does not
have to know that. You just need to make them THINK that you're willing to drive 500 miles to save

$1,000, if that's what it takes to get the BEST PRICE. And when you think about it, wouldn't you?

I've done it, and I would do it again, but if that's not an option for you, that's ok. If you will just check

prices – up to 500 miles away – you will be able to get a much better idea of just HOW LOW the

price CAN be for the vehicle you're wanting to buy. Who knows? You just might find a deal that is

actually worth the drive. And if you DO find a price that is MUCH better, you will need to print it,

and take it to the dealership with you – or AT LEAST be able to show the ad to them on your

Smartphone. Another fantastic feature that is offered on Autotrader.com is their “Trade-In

Guaranteed Price” option. This feature works with participating car dealerships, and what it does

is allow you to KNOW the MINIMUM AMOUNT the dealership should offer you for your vehicle.

Participating dealers will also honor this value to BUY your car – even if you're NOT buying your

vehicle from them.

Then there's Craigslist, which has quickly become one of the most popular places for people to go

car shopping. When you use Craigslist, BE ON THE ALERT for scams, most of which can be

avoided if you just use good, common sense. If a deal sounds too good to be true, it probably is.

And also be sure to read the entire post, NOT just the headline, for a vehicle you find on Craigslist.

You would be amazed by how many needless phone calls I've gotten from people when I've posted ads

on Craigslist, simply because they didn't bother to take 2 minutes to read the post BEFORE calling.

From my experience, MOST of the vehicles being offered for sale on Craigslist ARE legitimate offers

from REAL people, who are simply taking advantage of a way to advertise their vehicle for sale –

for FREE. And who can blame them for that? But if YOU'RE DUMB ENOUGH to believe an offer

that CLEARLY seems too good to be real – or if you send payment for a vehicle BEFORE you see it
and test drive it – then YOU'RE JUST ASKING TO BE TAKEN ADVANTAGE of, and, frankly,

it would be YOUR OWN FAULT if you get cheated. I also must add that it will make your Craigslist

search MUCH EASIER if you will enter the specific kind of vehicle you are looking for in the search

bar; otherwise, you could be looking through days and days of posts – just to find the specific vehicle

you're trying to find. Then you will want to sort by price, from lowest to highest, so you can quickly

get to the BEST PRICES for the specific vehicle you're looking to buy. You should also search

nearby cities – especially the nearest MAJOR city to you – even if you don't plan to go there.

One MAJOR ADVANTAGE of purchasing a car from a private owner via Autotrader or Craigslist,

is that when you buy from a private owner, you usually don't have to pay sales tax with your

purchase, and you don't have to pay the “doc fee” or “paperwork fee” that most auto dealerships

charge – which can be anywhere from $199 - $899, depending on the dealership. Some counties and

municipalities are changing their policies so that you DO have to pay sales tax when buying from

a private owner, but in MOST areas, you can avoid having to pay sales tax when you buy from an

individual, rather than from a dealership. If you decide to buy from a private owner, you will still

need to obtain a copy of a CARFAX Report, even if you have to pay for it. In addition to taking the

vehicle for a thorough test drive, you should also take the vehicle to a local auto parts store, like

AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts or O'Reilley's, or any of the others that will do a FREE diagnostic

check of the vehicle for you. In fact, even if you're considering buying a car from a dealership,

it still ain't a bad idea to stop by one of these auto parts stores for a FREE diagnostic check.

Once you have checked the book values, compared prices from a few different websites, and

verified the condition of a vehicle, you should have EVERYTHING you need to negotiate a great
price on any vehicle. If you need to go home to do this research, then you should do it. In fact,

I WOULD NOT recommend you signing paperwork to buy a pre-owned vehicle before you do this

minimal amount of research; it could save you THOUSANDS of dollars. If you have a phone with

internet access, DON'T BE AFRAID or ashamed to do your research while you're right there at the

dealership; you have access to ALL THE INFORMATION YOU NEED – right at your fingertips.

I've sold cars during the “smartphone” era, and, believe me, car salesmen HATE IT when they see

a customer looking up information on their phones while they're still at the dealership – because

THEY KNOW that these people are most likely looking up book values and comparing prices.

Even if you don't have a computer, and you want to buy the vehicle you're considering on THAT

DAY, you can ask to use a computer at the dealership, and any dealer that has a bit of a commitment to

customer service will allow you to use THEIR computer. Now, they won't volunteer to let you use

their computer to find a better price for the vehicle they're trying to sell you, but if you ask, they will

almost always allow you this privilege. You just have to know WHAT to ask, and you have to be

willing to do what is best for YOU, even if you don't think the dealer will like it. No matter how

friendly the salesman or the sales manager may seem to be, you have to keep in mind that the car

dealership is in business to MAXIMIZE THEIR PROFIT, and they are trying to sell you a car

for as much as you're willing to pay – or as much money as the bank will allow to be financed –

whichever amount is greater.

It shouldn't even need to be said, but I MUST emphasize that you should ALWAYS see a copy

of the CARFAX Report, and observe whether the report recommends a valuation above or below
book value. Also, you should make sure that the report actually IS for the vehicle you're considering

by confirming the VIN. This report is vital, because it will show you the ownership and accident

history for the vehicle; sometimes, it will even show you the maintenance history of a vehicle, if it was

serviced by a dealership. It isn't necessarily a horrible thing if a vehicle has been in an accident,

and the CARFAX Report will usually tell you the severity and location of any accidents involving

the vehicle. Even if the report recommends a value ABOVE book value for a vehicle that HAS been

involved in an accident, YOU can STILL use this information to YOUR advantage when you're

negotiating for the best price.

 Chapter 3

Should You Buy or Lease Your Next Vehicle?

 I MUST include this chapter in a book about buying vehicles, because, for A LOT of people,

leasing just might be a better option than buying their vehicles. The main reason I say this is

because the average “trading cycle” for cars is only about 42 months, meaning that most of the

people who choose to “buy” their vehicles NEVER actually own them, because they trade them in

waaaaay before they're completely paid off. As a result of trading in their vehicles so quickly, MOST

people who trade within the average trading cycle also have to deal with NEGATIVE EQUITY,

because their cars usually aren't worth nearly as much as they owe on them. Then, to make matters

even worse, when they trade their vehicles, they generally don't have ANY REAL IDEA how much

they can expect to get as trade-in value for it. Does this sound familiar to you? THIS is where a lot of
people end up getting “stuck” in a spiral of BAD CAR DEALS, constantly trying to get out of

a “negative equity” situation, with little or NO MONEY down to apply towards the next vehicle

they want to “buy.” Too often, this also leads people to negotiate their next car deal based on

PAYMENT, because they just want to get out of their “old” car and into a newer one, as long as

their payment is “affordable.” This is a BIG MISTAKE! Contrary to popular belief these days, it

IS NOT an insult

to put money down to buy a vehicle. In fact, just 30 short years ago, a bank wouldn't even consider

approving a car loan unless the buyer had at least 20% as down payment – regardless of their credit.

One of the HUGE benefits of leasing is that your payments will almost always be considerably

LESS than if you choose to buy the same vehicle. That's because with a lease, you only pay for the

time you actually use the car, and, because of this, you will finance A LOT LESS money than you

will if you opt to purchase the same vehicle – generally, about HALF as much. Another BIG

advantage of leasing is that it allows you to know EXACTLY what to expect as a trade-in value

at the end of the lease's term. Leases also usually include FREE maintenance for their entire term.

Before you sign up for a lease, you DO need to be mindful of a few things that can cause a lease

NOT to be the best option for you. The first thing you should consider in this determination is the

“acquisition cost”, or in basic terms, the down payment required to obtain the vehicle. If this fee

applies, then you have to calculate this up-front fee into your total cost to lease a vehicle.

For example if you have a 24 month lease option that has a LOW monthly payment of only $299 –

BUT it has an up-front fee of, let's say, $1,999 – then you will need to divide that $1,999 by the

24month term, which is approximately $83.29 per month. When you add this amount to the payment
of $299, then you realize that your actual investment for the lease would be $382.29; you just would be
paying $1,999 of it up front. In addition, with leases, you pay the sales tax monthly, NOT all up

front, like when you buy a vehicle. So, if the sales tax rate is 7% in your county, then you would also

need to ADD this additional amount to your lease payment as well, which would be about $21 a

month, making your monthly payment $299 + $21, or $320, while increasing your TOTAL actual

investment “average out” to be about $403.29 per month. With this in mind, IF you're going to

lease

a vehicle, I would almost ALWAYS recommend that you get a lease that has NO UP-FRONT,

ACQUISITION FEES – or - they should be VERY minimal.

Another very important factor to consider before leasing a vehicle is the mileage allowance,

meaning how many miles does the lease agreement allow you to travel, without violating the terms

of the lease, because, with a lease, you will have to pay for any “overage” of miles you put on the

vehicle. Usually, leases allow anywhere from 12,000 – 15,000 miles per year, without any penalty.

With this in mind, it is crucial for you to have accurate information about how many miles YOU drive

annually. Even if you drive more than the amount of miles allotted per the lease agreement, you can

generally alter the lease agreement - at its initiation - to allow you to drive more miles without being

penalized. You may have to pay an additional fee for these additional miles, but this fee is usually

considerably less if you have these miles factored into the lease at its inception, rather than paying the

much higher amount that would be charged as a “penalty” at the end of the lease period. You will

also need to consider vehicle maintenance, as most leases have pretty strict requirements about how

the vehicle must be serviced while you're using it. Fortunately, most leases these days already include

all of the necessary maintenance that the vehicle will need to have performed for the time period of

your lease.
 When the time comes to trade-in a leased vehicle at the end of the term, you have several GREAT

options. You can either BUY the vehicle, or TRADE it in for a different BRAND NEW one, or you

can even SELL it. That's right; you can actually sell a vehicle that you are leasing. The reason you

can do this with a leased vehicle is because of a little thing called its RESIDUAL VALUE. Basically,

the Residual Value is a pre-set dollar amount that lets you know – IN ADVANCE – EXACTLY

what you will get as trade-in value for the vehicle when you trade it in two or three or four years

down the road. This value is also the same amount as the price that you can BUY the vehicle for

at the end of the lease term - IF you should decide to keep it. And because you know EXACTLY

what price you can buy the vehicle for at the end of the lease term, you also know what amount you

can SELL if for. Sometimes, you can even make a PROFIT by selling a leased vehicle yourself. I

mean, if you're leasing a vehicle, and it's getting close to the end of the lease – or ANYTIME during

the lease - you have the option to SELL that vehicle for a PROFIT if you can get more for it than the

amount you owe, which is WHAT, ya'll? It's the RESIDUAL VALUE - that's rite! And I'm willing to

bet that YOU DIDN'T KNOW this information about leasing – and that you're starting to, at least

consider

it as an option.
 I've got to let you know right now that leases generally require you to have VERY GOOD credit,

and that fact alone should be a tip-off that it just MIGHT be a good thing to consider. I mean, aren't

the BEST financing options ALWAYS reserved for the people who have the BEST credit? Well,

leasing is pretty much the same way. The interest rate, or “rate factor”, as it's called in the

“leasing world” is ALMOST ALWAYS EXTREMELY LOW – and I'm talking about BELOW

1% “LOW”. If you're self-employed or work in certain occupations, your vehicle's lease payments

can even be used as TAX deductions (please see your accountant or tax attorney for the tax laws that

apply to YOUR state). Best of all, for those of you who like to get a BRAND NEW vehicle every few

years, leasing was literally made JUST FOR YOU – and was designed to help you trade vehicles

painlessly and more affordably. And, oh yeah, YOU CAN trade in a leased vehicle for one made by a

TOTALLY DIFFERENT manufacturer. While a dealership for a different manufacturer IS NOT

obligated to honor the Residual Value as your trade-in allowance at THEIR dealership, it DOES

help you in your trade-in negotiation with them, as it gives them a REAL, VERIFIABLE value which

they will have to “meet or beat” in order to earn YOUR business. In a case like this, the Residual

Value is essentially the same as your “pay-off” amount if you were trading a vehicle that you were

buying. So, as long as a dealer is willing to offer you a “trade-in” amount that is equal or greater

– or, at least, close enough – to your Residual Value, then you can trade the leased vehicle toward

any other vehicle you may want to lease or buy. You see, it's NOT all that complicated, when you get

your information from someone who isn't trying to hide it from you.
 Chapter 4

How to Get Cash Back at Closing with YOUR Car Deal:

Get a GREAT Deal - AND a CHECK Back for UP to $10,000 – or MORE!!

 Now, I'm sure you've seen Real Estate infomercials and heard of people getting cash back at closing

when they buy houses or other properties, but DID YOU KNOW that you can do the EXACT SAME

THING with your car deal when you buy your next vehicle?!? That's right - I've seen car deals in

which customers have gotten in checks in excess of $10,000 BACK with their vehicle purchase.

Would YOU like to know how to do it too? Well, get ready, because I'm about to show you a simple,

“creative financing” tip that just MIGHT be a GREAT WAY for some much needed CASH for

some of you out there – ESPECIALLY if you have good credit. In fact, if YOU are one of those

people who has GREAT CREDIT – but ALMOST NO CASH – then THIS chapter is JUST for

YOU! One of the BEST parts about using this technique is that it DOES NOT require you to have

PERFECT credit; it only requires that you have pretty decent credit AND that you know how to get

a GREAT PRICE on the car you intend to buy. Getting a very good price is a CRUCIAL FACTOR

in making this technique work, because the LOWER price is, the MORE MONEY it leaves available

for you to “CASH OUT” with at closing. So, are you ready to learn this little-known technique?

Well, here we go!

Essentially, this technique involves you “working the numbers” in your favor by purchasing your

new or pre-owned vehicle for substantially LESS than its book value; and these kinds of deals ARE

out there – ALL THE TIME – with brand new AND pre-owned vehicles. I will explain how to use

this method with new vehicles first, because, with the Invoice Price readily available to you, it's the

easiest way to do it. Do you remember earlier when you learned how to negotiate a GREAT DEAL

on a brand new car, simply by knowing the Invoice Price and the Rebates/Incentives that are available

for the vehicle you want to buy? Well, this information can be used to your advantage in one of TWO

WAYS – either to pay a VERY LOW price for a vehicle OR to GET a FAT CHECK back at

closing.
 Let me explain briefly, and it will make perfect sense. For example, let's say that you want to buy

a Dodge Ram 1500 Mega Cab. Well, these trucks, and ALL domestic trucks and SUV'S tend to have

HUGE rebates – ESPECIALLY at the end of the year and on into the early months of a new year.

A truck like this, depending on how it's equipped, will have a sticker price in the neighborhood of

$40,000 – and an Invoice Price around $35,000. Well, I've seen these same trucks have rebates in

excess of $7,500, meaning that at the right time of the year, you can buy a truck like this for around

$27,500 – ALL DAY LONG – IF you know how. What tends to happen is that MOST people

allow the dealership to take the $7,500 rebate off of the sticker price – NOT off the Invoice Price.

This can easily be a $5,000+ mistake – but NOT for YOU - because YOU KNOW BETTER, and

NOW you're about to learn a little more.

 Using the numbers from the above paragraph, in which you can buy a $40,000 truck for $27,500,

here is HOW you can use those figures to get a BIG FAT CHECK back from the dealership when

you buy it. After you negotiate the price down to $27,500, you will get the dealer to make your

Buyer's Order for the $40,000 sticker price of the vehicle. When your loan gets approved, the lender

will send the dealership a check for $40,000 – BUT you will only owe the dealership the agreed upon

price of $27,500! So ,WHAT HAPPENS with the other $12,500?? This is YOUR money, and the

dealership will CUT YOU A CHECK BACK for the difference of the loan and what you actually

agreed to pay for the truck. I'm not including sales tax or dealer doc fees in this example, but on a deal

like this, you could get a check back for about $10,000, and if you also happen to have very good

credit, you can get a check like this, with an interest rate as low as 0% for a brand new car - or as

low as 1.9% for a pre-owned vehicle. Compared to the rates that banks usually charge to borrow cash,

THESE ARE FANTASTIC RATES, which makes using this technique a MUCH BETTER WAY

to get access to money than simply getting a cash loan or a line of credit. Does it make perfect sense

to you NOW – and aren't YOU ready to go out a buy a car – AND get a check back when you

close??

People use this technique ALL THE TIME; in fact, I know of people who WILL NOT buy a car

if they can't get a check for AT LEAST $5,000 back when they close the deal! It doesn't cost the

dealership anything; they STILL get their vehicle sold at a price they can live with, and YOU'RE the

one who has to pay back the loan for the higher dollar amount – NOT them. In some cases, the

dealership WILL NOT be able to cut your check back the SAME DAY. They may have to wait until

they get THEIR check from the lender, which is called being “funded” for the deal. If this

happens, you will need to get A WRITTEN I.O.U. from the dealership for the EXACT DOLLAR

AMOUNT of your CASH BACK check, signed by the General Manager.

 This SAME technique can be used to purchase a pre-owned vehicle; you just have to do a little

more research, and you have to know the book values for the vehicle you want to buy. For used

vehicles, this creative financing method tends to work BEST with fairly new vehicles and “high-

line” cars, like Cadillac, Mercedes, Lexus, BMW and the like. The reason for this is because these

vehicles are more likely to have a HIGH book value, BUT can often be purchased for prices that are

WELL BELOW their book value. You just have to look for vehicles with prices that have the

BIGGEST difference between their SELLING PRICE and their BOOK VALUE. Once you have

this info, using this technique for a pre-owned vehicle is the same as for a new one.

For example, let's say you find a vehicle that has a book value of $27,000. Well, when you find

a GREAT DEAL on a car like this – let's say $19,995 – then you can do the SAME THING to get

cash back at closing as you would do with a new vehicle. You can have your Buyer's Order written

for the book value of $27,000, but you would only pay the agreed upon price of $19,995, leaving

you with a deal in which you can get a FAT CHECK for around $7,000 at closing! And believe me,

these types of deals are available for pre-owned vehicles – EVERY DAY. And now, YOU KNOW

HOW to use a deal like this - and a little “creative financing know-how”- to put some much-

needed CASH into your bank account.

Although MOST of us would prefer to get our money in CASH, there are situations in which you

might prefer just to have some bills pre-paid, ESPECIALLY if you don't trust yourself to do the right

things with the money once you get it. Did you know that you could do that? You must remember that
the money that you get back in your car deal IS factored into your car payment, meaning that your car

payment WILL be higher if you get cash back. With that in mind, you should be VERY CAREFUL

to use the money WISELY. Otherwise, you could just put yourself in a worse situation. For example,

if you have some credit card debt, another car payment, finance company loans – even your rent or

mortgage – you can use the “cash back” portion of your deal to pay those bills! In a case like this,

you could just have the auto dealer send the checks for the amounts you want paid DIRECTLY to the

source for you – AND you would have THE EXACT AMOUNTS to be sent IN WRITING on a

“WE OWE” form from the dealer.

Let's say you work a deal in which you get $7,500 back. You could either use that money to go

shopping or a fancy vacation or new furniture or the newest phone – OR you could use it to pay off,

or AT LEAST pre-pay, some of your other bills. I've even seen people use the money they get back

from car deals to start small businesses – and make even MORE MONEY with that money. In some

situations, you can even use this technique to help get your loan APPROVED, by letting the lender

know that some of the bills (or judgements/liens/charge-offs) that are on your credit report are going

to be paid off with “REBATE MONEY” from your car deal. With a check back for $7,500, you

could WIPE OUT $5,000 worth of BILLS – and STILL have a nice chunk of cash left to have some

fun. Even if you don't really have credit cards or a lot of outstanding bills, you could use that same

$5,000 to PRE-PAY your rent or house payment or your newly acquired car payment – or a

combination of BOTH - for SEVERAL months! Can you imagine NOT having a house and/or car

payment for 3 – 9 MONTHS?? Wouldn't that be SWEEEEET?!? Ikr?! Well, it COULD be just a

GREAT car deal away.

 Here's another way you can “buy some time”, whether you get cash back with your deal or not.

You can delay the time until your first payment is due – by UP TO 3-6 months – JUST BY ASKING.

Typically, when you buy a car your first payment will be due within 30 days from the date of your

purchase – or sometimes 45 days. If you ASK the Finance Manager for a delay in time before your

first payment is due, they can usually handle this for you very easily. An extension of up to 60 days is

common, with NO PENALTY or EXTRA CHARGE to you. For extensions of time beyond that, it

may cost you a little more, but it is usually just a matter of “moving the payments” for the months

that you did not make a payment to the end of your loan's term. So, if you signed up for a 72 month

loan – BUT – you have 6 months until your first payment – then at the end of the 72 months, you

would still have about 5 payments to make, NOT including the customary 30-45 day period before

your first payment normally becomes due. And remember, THIS TECHNIQUE can be used even if

you DON'T get cash back at closing; it's just a way of buying yourself some time to manage your cash

flow, and,

as they say, “time IS money”, right?

 Chapter 5

How to Get a Better Interest Rate – Regardless of Your Credit Situation

 Now that you know how to get the BEST PRICE when you negotiate your deal for a new

or pre-owned vehicle, it's time to know how to handle the other factors that ALL play a part in getting

a GREAT DEAL – OVERALL. Another factor that is a VERY IMPORTANT part of getting

your GREAT DEAL is the INTEREST RATE. Believe, people with great credit and/or money

DO UNDERSTAND this part of the game, but, for the most part, the majority of folks “slip”

REALLY BADLY when it comes to making sure they “haggle” for their interest rate JUST AS

MUCH as they do about the price – and it costs those who don't handle this part properly

THOUSANDS of DOLLARS. On average, if you finance a vehicle for 60-72 months, you will pay

roughly $15 MORE - PER MONTH – for EACH additional point of interest rate you are

charged. Did you hear that?!? I mean, did you REALLY hear me; were you LISTENING? If not,

then
PAY VERY CLOSE ATTENTION RIGHT NOW, because I need you to do a little math with me –

so you can TRULY SEE THIS – for YOURSELF. Then, hopefully, you will UNDERSTAND just

how VITAL it is for you SAVE as much as you can on your interest rate – and, if you have below

average or even poor credit, to do EVERYTHING you possibly can to improve your credit rating.

Over the course of your life, having poor credit can cost you MANY THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS!

Here's the basic math involving interest rates. If it costs you an additional $15 per month – per

point of interest rate - then a difference of 10 POINTS in the interest rate you get in your car deal

can cost you an EXTRA $150 A MONTH on your car payment! That means that even IF you ARE

able to negotiate THE BEST PRICE POSSIBLE for a vehicle, then this SAME CAR would STILL

cost $150 MORE per month than it would - IF you had a credit score that was 50-70 points higher.

So, for a car that would cost you $300 per month IF you qualified for an interest rate, of, let's say 5%

- the SAME CAR – at the SAME PRICE – would cost YOU $450 PER MONTH at an interest

rate of 15%! And interest rates for car loans can go as HIGH as 29% here in Georgia, where I live.

Folks, at that interest rate, THAT'S about $135 MORE - that a person with POOR credit would have

to pay EVERY month – for the SAME CAR – at the SAME PRICE. This difference in interest

rate would INCREASE the payment - from what could have been $300 per month – UP to $585

PER MONTH! Now, DO YOU SEE just HOW MUCH difference the interest rate can make in the

monthly payment you pay for your vehicle? Did you ever STOP TO THINK that YOUR car

payment could range anywhere from $300 a month – UP to $585 a month ALL because

of a difference in the interest rate?

 Now, let me show you something that's REEEAALLY gonna FLIP YOUR WIG - and THAT

is HOW MUCH MONEY the additional amount in monthly payment ADDS UP to be – over the

entire course of an auto loan. The difference between $300 and $585 is $285 a month. So, if a vehicle

is financed for, let's say 60 or 72 months, then paying $285 more per month would equate to an

ADDITIONAL – (wait for it) - $17,100 DOLLARS over 60 months – or (and this might make

you sick) an EXTRA $20,520 over the course of a 72 month loan. That's the MATH and the

REALITY

of just how important INTEREST RATES and YOUR CREDIT RATING TRULY ARE, folks.

Even if you have pretty good credit, you can STILL get “ripped off” regarding your interest rate,

based on what you DON'T know. What if qualify for a rate that is just 3% lower than the rate you

ACTUALLY receive – because YOU DIDN'T KNOW you qualified to receive it? That can make

a difference of $45 a month in your car payment. Over 60 months, that's $2,700, and over 72 months,

it's $3,240 – meaning that an interest rate difference from 5% - UP to just 8% - can STILL COST

you MORE THAN $3,000 over the entire term of your car loan, WHILE costing you MORE money

in your car payment – every month. So, for those of you with good credit, DON'T YOU FORGET

to “HAGGLE HARD” for a lower interest rate!

If you already have pretty good credit (generally being a FICO score of at least 625), or good

credit (at least 675) or even great credit (750+), then getting the best interest rate that is available

for you is EASY. All you have to do is call a few lenders to find out what interest rate is available

for you, based on your good credit score. But what do you do if you DON'T have good credit?
YOU MUST DO THE SAME THING, and as you now know, it is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT
that you DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH and KNOW what interest rate you qualify to receive –

and I'm gonna show you THE BEST WAY to do it. Don't worry. It's pretty easy when you know

EXACTLY what to do.

If you have below average or even bad credit, you're just gonna have to understand that your

interest rate IS going to be higher than the rate of a person with good or great credit. There's just

NO WAY around that fact. And when you think about it, it DOES actually make sense. I mean,

if you were in the business of loaning YOUR money, and you could charge different interest rates

to people, based on their credit rating, who would YOU give the lower interest rate? Would it be

someone with a credit score of 750, which shows that they have a history of paying their bills –

ON TIME (and probably early), OR a person with a score of 525, whose credit report shows a history

of paying their bills late, and, sometimes NOT AT ALL? I think we would ALL give the lower rate

to the person with the better credit rating. We have to remember that banks and lenders are in business

to MAKE MONEY on the money they lend and that YOU are a TOTAL STRANGER to them. The

ONLY INFORMATION they have to determine whether or not they should loan you their money is

your payment history, as shown on your credit report, your current and previous work history, your

income and your current bills. It's JUST business, and THAT'S JUST HOW IT IS, folks; there's just

not a pretty way to say it. However, there ARE some things that you can do to get the best rate that

YOU qualify to receive – AND some REAL WAYS that you can RAISE YOUR CREDIT SCORE

– simply, quickly and legally.

 Shopping for the best interest rate is kinda like shopping for the best price on a used car, meaning

that you DO have to SHOP AROUND to get the BEST DEAL – even if you have below average,

or even poor credit. And the way you shop for interest rates is to contact a few auto lenders BEFORE

you go to a car dealership. Now, if your car just broke down yesterday, and you THINK you don't

have time to do that, then I'm gonna show you how to do it – quickly and easily. There are two

different types of lenders, other than auto dealerships, and that is banks, who do ALL kinds of loans,

and lenders who SPECIFICALLY do auto loans. If you go online and do a Google search, you will

quickly find several lenders who SPECIALIZE in doing JUST auto loans – EVEN for people with

bad credit. It will be well worth your time to TRY, because MANY of these sources are the EXACT

SAME lenders that the automobile dealerships call to try to get your loan approved. The MAIN

difference is this: If the dealership contacts the lender and gets your loan approved, then they will try

to make a “points” off of you, meaning that they will try to charge you a higher interest rate than

the lender actually approves for you to get. This is one of the MAIN WAYS that automobile

dealerships make their money - by arranging the financing of vehicles at THEIR location. There are

laws that limit how many “points” they are allowed to OVERCHARGE you for your interest rate,

generally up to 2 or 3 percent, and each percent is called a “point”. So, if the dealership gets a

lender to approve your application at a rate of 7%, then they will offer you the loan at up to 9% or

10%. Do you remember HOW MUCH MONEY that can be every month and over the entire term of

an auto loan? A difference of 3% can be $3,000, and a difference of only 1.5% can STILL cost you

OVER $1,500 – and THAT, my friends, is A LOT of MOOLAH!!

 So, the BEST way to get a good – or, at least a better – interest rate, depending on your credit,

is to SHOP AROUND – BUT – you have to be smart about how you do this too. Too much

“shopping around” for interest rates CAN hurt your situation. First of all, let me tell you right here

that IT IS NOT TRUE that it lowers your credit score EVERY TIME your credit is pulled. THIS is

a BIG LIE that people need to STOP telling and to STOP believing, because it simply IS NOT true.

Lenders KNOW that in order to get approved for an auto loan you MUST complete a credit

application, so it wouldn't even make sense for the system to penalize you JUST for applying for a

loan. However, there IS a limit to the number of inquiries you can have before it DOES begin to

lower your credit score – like going to 6 or 7 different car dealerships in ONE WEEK – trying to

get an approval.

If you have “borderline” credit, and you've done this before, then YOU KNOW that by the end of

the week, you were already starting to see your credit score DROP! That's because it IS possible to do

TOO MUCH, TOO FAST when you're trying to get approved for a car loan.

You should also know that typically, when you apply for a loan at a car dealership, they will usually

send your credit application out to several lenders at the same time, trying to get at least one of them

to approve your deal. What this means is that if you go to 5 different dealerships in a week, and each

of them sends your application to 5 different lenders, then your application will get sent to 25 different

lenders – IN ONE WEEK – and that's probably about 20 TOO MANY! You see, when you DO

apply for credit, it counts as what is called an “inquiry”, and these inquiries show up on your credit

report – ALMOST IMMEDIATELY. That's why car dealerships can look at your credit report and

know exactly which other dealerships you have visited – even earlier the same day. This works
against you in at least two ways:
 #1. By knowing which other dealerships you have visited, it gives them somewhat of an idea

as to your level of “desperation”. It just makes sense that if you've been to several other dealerships

and you STILL don't have a vehicle, then there is usually a good reason why – either the other

dealers couldn't meet your terms, OR they couldn't get your application approved at all. For YOUR

benefit, this IS NOT the kind of information you want the dealership to know about you, because they

will use this knowledge about your situation against you.

#2. By knowing which other dealerships you have already visited and which banks they

submitted your loan application to, then each dealership you visit will be submitting your application

to completely different banks, because once a lender turns down your credit application, they usually

CANNOT reconsider your application for 30 days. THIS is WHY you end up with SO MANY

inquiries when you visit multiple dealerships in a very short period of time, and THIS is what can

make your credit score “drop like a rock”- in just a few days! This could also be the source for the

myth that EACH time you have your credit pulled, it lowers your score. It sure can seem that way,

ESPECIALLY if you only go to one or two dealerships – BUT – they each send your application to

7 or 8 banks - trying to get an approval for you. And YES, I HAVE seen some managers get upset

because a person wouldn't buy a car from them – and then submit a person's application to DOZENS

of banks, and lowering that person's credit score – ON PURPOSE. For THIS REASON, I strongly

recommend that when you do allow a dealer to pull your credit, that you insist that they DO NOT

“shotgun” your application by sending it to multiple banks – but ONLY to the 2 or 3 lenders

that they think are most likely to approve your application. You will want to get their agreement to do

this – in writing and signed by a Manager.

 A MUCH SMARTER way to shop for your loan approval is to have a loan PRE-APPROVED

– BEFORE you go to a dealership. To do this, you will need to apply to JUST A FEW lenders

directly before you go to a dealership to find out what they can do for you. The manager at the auto

dealership generally can't tell the lenders ANYTHING that YOU can't tell 'em that will influence their

decision about approving your loan application. If you have a good relationship with your primary

bank or credit union, they are usually a good place to start, since they already have a relationship with

you. Other than your main bank, you can also try other nationally known banks, like Wells Fargo and

Nations Bank or major auto lenders, like Chase Manhattan and PNC and others that you will find

during your search – but DO NOT APPLY TO MORE THAN THREE, maybe four. If you

KNOW you have rough credit, then DO NOT waste inquiries by applying to just any bank for your

loan; it will be in YOUR BEST INTEREST to search online for an auto lender that specializes in

approving loans for your situation. It would also be BEST if you will ONLY apply to TWO lenders

at a time, so if one or both of them approve you, then you can go with the one that offers you the

BEST terms and interest rate, AAAAAND you will have some “ammunition” to at least make the

folks at the dealership have to compete to MEET or BEAT an approval that you ALREADY have.

Even if you get turned down by the first two places you apply, then you will AT LEAST know your

situation a little better, as lenders are required - BY LAW - to send you a letter explaining WHY your

loan application was denied – and, best of all, you WON'T have A DOZEN new inquiries on your

credit report, like you probably would have if you had gone to the dealership(s) first. THEN, if you

have to apply to TWO MORE banks, and they BOTH deny your application – that will STILL only
be four new inquiries on your credit report – and THAT ain't so bad. In fact, using this technique

alone can help you keep 10 or more inquiries OFF of your credit report – AND keep 20-50 points

from being DEDUCTED from of your credit score, ESPECIALLY if you have to apply at multiple

places in a short period of time.

Just remember that it is ALWAYS to YOUR ADVANTAGE to make the dealership compete

to EARN your business in EVERY way, including the interest rate – and NOW YOU KNOW HOW

to do just that - even if you DON'T have perfect credit. If you have below average credit, your interest

rate WILL be higher than the rate a person with good credit would receive, but, remember that if you

can save yourself even ONE point on your interest rate, it will be well worth your effort. So, WHAT-

EVER your credit situation happens to be at the time you go to buy your next vehicle, you should

ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS haggle for a BETTER interest rate than the one you are offered

– UNLESS it's 0% - because the LOWER the interest rate the MORE $$$ YOU SAVE!
 Chapter 6

Tips To Help Get Your Loan Application APPROVED –

and a Better Interest Rate:

 I MUST include the information in this chapter, because I have noticed several costly mistakes

that people often make when they complete credit applications. These mistakes can mean a difference

of several points of interest rate – or getting an approval AT ALL. One thing you have to know about

the credit approval process is that applications which are submitted by dealerships are ALMOST

ALWAYS “screened” through a computerized scoring system. This does not simply mean that

a computer checks your credit score, which they do. What it means is that EACH and EVERY line

on a credit application is worth a certain number of “points”, and it is critical, for YOUR sake, that

you complete EVERY line on the application – even for info that the salesperson might NOT ask

you to give (unless your score is 750 or higher). This includes info such as your bank accounts,

Drivers' License number, 3 or more verifiable personal references, previous addresses (if less than 3

years at your current address), previous employment (5 yr work history), ALL verifiable sources of

income, including current bank statements and tax records. Even if you get paid in cash or by personal

check, you should ask your employer to type an Income Statement Letter, which includes your

income, based on your hourly rate and the number of hours you work per pay period. MOST banks

have minimum income requirements before they will even consider approving your loan, unless it's

through a “first-time buyer” or similar program, in which the lenders KNOW that you are just

starting to establish credit and that you may have limited income. Generally, an approval of this type

will be through a credit union, and it will be for a low dollar amount, around $8,000 - $10,000.

Remember, approving or denying your loan application IS NOT personal; it is strictly business,

and, when it comes to reviewing your credit application, the “REVIEWER” will look at it as a

BUSINESS decision – NOT a personal one – ESPECIALLY in the case of computer “scoring”.
This is even MORE reason to provide ALL of the pertinent and helpful info you can on your

application – because EVERY completed line will score you more points AND get you that much

closer to getting an approval and/or a better interest rate. It can also be helpful if you can make it

known on your application that you are willing to have your car payments automatically deducted

from your bank account. If you're using a local bank or credit union, it may even benefit you to have

your paycheck directly deposited into a certain bank – if they are the bank that will approve your

loan.

Three of the MAIN factors, other than your credit score, which have the most effect on your

loan approval or denial, are your residence history, your work history and your VERIFIABLE

income. Your residence history and work history are EXTREMELY important, as they allow

a lender to see whether or not you are “stable” or whether you move around and/or change jobs a

lot. As a part of their consideration to loan you money or not, the lenders DO want to know that you

are likely to maintain a job and a stable address. If possible, you will want to use the address of the

location from your Driver's License on your application, unless you have moved far away from that

address. If you're a young person, who has just established a new residence, it CAN be helpful

for you to continue to use your parents' address, if that is where you have the longest residential

history. I mean, I KNOW you may be proud of your new place, but the banks that be will be

reviewing your application will not be impressed that you have just taken on a BIG, NEW

responsibility – like RENT.

 You should know that you will rarely, if ever, be asked to provide a copy of your rental lease

agreement as proof of residence; but you generally will need to provide some type of bill that is in

your name – that matches the address on your Driver's License – OR your new address, IF you

choose to disclose it. You should also know that rent almost NEVER shows up as a bill on your credit

report, so you DO NOT necessarily have to disclose that you have a $500 a month rent payment. If

you have a roommate that splits the expenses with you, and you choose to disclose your rent payment,

then you could accurately list your rent amount as half of the actual amount. For this reason, it can also

be helpful to have one of the bills at your parents' address listed in YOUR name – even if it's just the

water bill or a separate phone line. Another helpful hint for younger people who may move around

a lot for a few years, it can also be helpful to get a P.O. Box, especially one that shows as an actual

street address – not a P.O. Box. Having a P.O. Box like this will help you show a history of having

one, stable address, sometimes for many, many years – and it allows you to maintain more of your

privacy, by keeping your actual residential address unknown to those you may NOT want to have it.

There are some negative items that are worse than others to have on your credit report – such as

child support, late mortgage payments, auto repossessions, bankruptcies, judgments, charge-offs and

liens. For example, if you are late on your house payment, it is very unlikely that you will be

approved for a loan through a bank, because most lenders will reason that if a person isn't paying their

house payment on time, then they probably won't pay for their car on time. The same is true for late

child support payments and/or judgments and liens. These items on your credit bureau are almost

always “deal-breakers” that will get your loan application denied. Fortunately, some of these
items
are “removable”, and if you have any of them on your credit report, then it would be well worth

your while to at least TRY to have them removed. I know that you've heard of “credit repair”

companies that promise to RAISE YOUR CREDIT SCORE by removing negative items from your

credit report. Well, the GREAT NEWS is that THIS PROCESS ACTUALLY WORKS, and it

DOES NOT have to be expensive.

I've seen companies charging as much as $1,000 for this service, and I've also seen companies

offering the information on how to DO IT YOURSELF for as little as $2.95! In my opinion,

if you have the ORGANIZATION and the PATIENCE to do it yourself, that is the BEST way

to go, because in truth, the PROCESS is essentially the same, either way you choose to go. You

simply need to obtain a copy of your credit report, and then you will have to submit letters disputing

the negative items that are on your report. You can even do a Google search to find various “form”

letters that YOU can use to dispute specific negative items. You can dispute items such as inquiries,

late payments, charge-offs, old information, and EVEN liens, judgments and bankruptcies.

Those last three are the toughest to have removed, and, most of the time, they're staying on your credit

report for at least 7 years.

The way the credit reporting system works, if you dispute a negative item and request to have it

removed from your report, then the company you are disputing against only has 30 days to respond

to your dispute letter – or the negative item MUST be removed from your credit report in the next

reporting cycle – which is every 30 days. The most part about how the credit reporting “system”

works is that THIS POLICY APPLIES for ANY and ALL items you dispute on your credit report

– EVEN if it's ACCURATE! If you dispute an item, for certain, specified reasons – and in the
proper
manner – then it's up to the company that reported the negative item to provide PROOF that they

provided the correct info to the credit bureau – within 30 days – or the item MUST BE

REMOVED, at least until the company that reported the negative item can provide PROOF of its

validity. What this means is that you TRULY CAN make a SUBSTANTIAL IMPACT on your

credit score –

in ONLY 30-90 days – just by having just a few negative items removed from your credit report.

This can help to significantly raise your score, which can make a HUGE difference in the interest rate

you receive or whether your application gets approved at all. If you have below average credit and

some negative items on your credit report, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND that you at least TRY to have

some of those negative items REMOVED from your credit report, especially if you don't have to buy

your vehicle immediately. For those of you that are saving money for a car – or waiting for your

income tax return – and you have a few months to go, I advise that you contact a reputable Credit

Repair Company ASAP – or get the instructions you need to DO IT YOURSELF. It's worth it.

ANYONE can do their own credit “repair” themselves, but if you choose to use a “Credit

Repair Service”, then there are a few things you need to consider as you evaluate which company to

use.

First and foremost, DO NOT use a company that requires you to pay an up-front fee; you don't have

to do this, because there are reputable companies in this business that DON'T charge you

ANYTHING to start helping you. Next, you will want to check the company's record with their local

Better Business Bureau; if they aren't even listed with their local BBB, then I wouldn't recommend

using them at all. You should also try to look for reviews about the company – from places other

than
their website or their ads. Be wary of companies that make GUARANTEES that sound “too good to

be true”, because, in reality, NO ONE can TRUTHFULLY GUARANTEE that ANY disputed

items WILL be removed from your credit report. The ONLY guarantee that a company can

HONESTLY
stand behind is the assurance that if they DON'T have a MINIMUM number of items removed from

your credit report – then they WON'T charge you anything – and that policy needs to be stated

clearly – in writing. There are even some credit repair companies that only charge a flat fee, per item

they have deleted for you.

 Chapter 7

Understanding the Difference in Bank Financing and In-House Financing:

 This will be a short chapter, but I feel that I just have to cover this subject briefly, because it seems

to be one of the most misunderstood aspects of auto financing. Apparently, the term “in-house

financing” confuses a lot of people, especially for people who have never purchased a vehicle.

What you need to understand about this type of financing is that it is a “last resort” source to have

your vehicle financed. Typically, you want bank financing – NOT in-house financing. You see,

banks and credit unions ARE in business to make loans and accept their payments back from you over

time; MOST car dealerships ARE NOT. Car dealers are in business, primarily to SELL cars, and IF

they can arrange bank financing for you, then they also get to make money by getting their FLAT FEE

from the lenders, by charging you additional “points” on your interest rate and/or by selling you

warranty and service products. What usually happens when the dealership arranges your financing is

that they get a check from the bank within 3-10 days – so THEY ARE PAID IN FULL, or

“funded”- and you make your payments to the bank. That's why dealerships DO NOT get excited

or give you EXTRA EXTRA DISCOUNTS when you say you're paying cash. In fact, they usually

HATE it when you pay cash or have your own financing arranged, because then they don't get their

“cut”

for arranging your auto loan, and they don't get to sell you additional Finance products.
 With “in-house” financing, you make your payments to the dealership from which you buy the

vehicle, which means that they have THEIR money at risk – which is why they will almost

ALWAYS require a fairly substantial down payment, and their interest rates are usually

RIDICULOUSLY HIGH! In-house financing should ONLY be considered as your LAST option,

with VERY FEW exceptions. Generally speaking, in-house financing is used by people who CAN'T

get financing through a bank or credit union because of their limited and/or negative credit and/or

work history, and, TRUST ME, the dealerships who specialize in this type of financing KNOW this.

That's exactly WHY their interest rates are SO FREAKIN' HIGH – because they know that people

only go to them when they have no other choice!

If you MUST buy your vehicle through an in-house finance dealer, there are a few things you

should remember. First, it is very important that you remember to keep your focus on the PRICE

first – NOT the payment. Even if you DO let the dealer know what payment you want to have, you

should do the same price comparison research you would do if your credit was perfect (see Chapter 2).

In fact, it is BECAUSE the interest rates with in-house financing are so high, that you have even

MORE reason to negotiate for the BEST PRICE POSSIBLE on a vehicle you purchase from an in-

house finance dealership. You should “haggle hard” with them for a better interest rate, even if it's

ONLY for a couple of points. They will probably be inflexible about adjusting their price or their

interest rate, but IF YOU INSIST, you can almost ALWAYS negotiate the price lower, and you can

usually get a reduction off the interests rate of at least a point or two – even up to 5% or more,

depending on the amount of your down payment. For your benefit, you should also try to find an in-

house dealership that DOES report to the Credit Bureaus, as you make your payments – even if that

reporting doesn't start for 3-6 months after you begin making payments.
 You see, MOST in-house dealerships ONLY report to the Credit Bureaus when you DON'T pay

for their car, and THEN it's in the form of a REPOSSESSION or CHARGE-OFF being added to

your credit report. However, because of the competitive nature of the American Free Market System,

there are a growing number of in-house dealerships that offer you the ADDED SERVICE of reporting

your payments to the Credit Bureaus. SOME even have interest rates that are WELL BELOW the

MAXIMUM amount allowed by their state, as well as extended warranties and very good service

departments. If you MUST go to an in-house dealership, THIS is the kind you want to buy from.

Unfortunately, the credit reporting “system” IS designed to make it harder for those with

NO CREDIT or BAD credit - those who often have the MOST need - to have to pay MORE to get

their credit started or to get back “on their feet”. I KNOW that doesn't sound “fair”, but that's

just how it IS, y’all. That's why it's EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that you do EVERYTHING

you can to KEEP a good credit rating, if you already have one - OR that you begin to use this

KNOWLEDGE and INSIGHT to play the “credit game” SMARTER, so you can GET a good

credit rating. Now that you have a better understanding of the POWER and INFLUENCE your

credit has over our lives,

I ask EVERYBODY who reads this book to set a PERSONAL, FINANCIAL GOAL of having

a credit score OVER 750 – within 3 years - including MYSELF! Hey, believe me, if you have

below average or bad credit, YOU ARE NOT alone. MOST of us have made bad financial decisions

and life choices, but NOW it's up to US to obtain AND use SPECIFIC KNOWLEDGE,

DISCIPLINE, WISDOM, and a STRATEGY to SUCCEED. Oh yeah, I ain't ashamed to say that
we're also gonna have to WORK HARD – and PRAY HARDER – in JESUS' NAME –

AMEN!!!
 Chapter 8

How to Negotiate a Great Car Deal – OVER THE PHONE!

 Now, folks, THIS is a chapter that has some “inside” information that the car dealers REALLY

DON'T want you to know. I'm gonna show you a “little known trick” that can save you A LOT

of TIME, HEADACHES, and MONEY the next time you buy a vehicle – ESPECIALLY if you

have pretty good credit (625+). When you use the technique in this chapter, you may not EVER,

EVER, EVER have to deal with a car salesperson again. How GREAT would that be? I'm gonna

show you how to negotiate a GREAT car deal - COMPLETELY over the phone, via phone calls,

texts and e-mailing. THE KEY to using this method is WHO you contact when you call a car

dealership.

You see, MOST people just show up at a car dealership, not having ANY idea WHO they're going

to work with, and they just deal with the first salesperson who greets them. This is not the BEST way

to handle your trip to a car dealership. Before you go to a dealership to go “car shopping”, you

should ALWAYS know WHO you're going to see, and, if possible, you should set an appointment for

your
meeting. If you KNOW what to do, you can actually have most of the details of your car deal

confirmed – in writing – BEFORE you even go to the dealership. When you buy your vehicles

this way, all you will have to do is go to the dealership to test drive the vehicle or vehicles you're

interested in buying – and, IF you decide to buy, your paperwork can be READY and WAITING

for YOUR signature. It can be the FASTEST and EASIEST car buying experience you've EVER

had – and, once you know how to do this, YOU will NEVER buy your vehicles the “old way”

again –

and you'll wonder WHY you EVER did.

To understand WHY this method works so well, it helps to understand just how POWERFUL

a tool you have access to, in the form of the internet. It is THE tool that allows you to have ALL

of the information you could EVER need to do ALMOST ANYTHING – least of all, buying a car.

When it comes to buying a new or pre-owned vehicle, having access to the internet – ESPECIALLY

high-speed , on-the-spot access through a “Smart phone” - is the “Wizard of Oz” equivalent of

having Dorothy's “Ruby Red Slippers”. It gives you the POWER to get a GREAT DEAL – IF

you KNOW how to use it for YOUR maximum benefit. Thanks again to the GREAT, American

Free-Market system, because it FORCES competition, and competition is the MAIN THING that

keeps car dealerships HONEST – because you can ALWAYS go to a different one – AND because

it gives you access to SOOOOOO much information that they REALLY DON'T want you to know.

Believe me, if car dealers didn't HAVE to use websites or provide“full disclosure” pricing to

remain competitive with each other, they WOULDN'T have websites at all. Trust me, they HATE
the fact that they have to compete with other dealers in such a “wide open” playing field. THEY

MUCH PREFERRED the “pre-internet” era, when only THEY had access to certain information,

like avail-
able SPECIAL interest rates, Invoice Pricing, Rebates – and when you COULDN'T shop at multiple

dealerships from the comfort of your home - OR get EASY ACCESS to books like THIS one!

If you've read this book in its entirety so far, then you already know a WHOLE LOT more than the

car dealers EVER wanted you to know. Now, I'm going to give you another “gold nugget” of info,

which will make your vehicle buying process SUPER EASY, because NOW I'm gonna tell you

exactly WHO to deal to get the BEST car deal - BEFORE you even go to a car dealership. It is

THIS person's job to give you ALL of the information you request, and, for MOST car dealerships,

THIS person's position is expected to be a high-volume, low profit producer. THIS person is

generally found by MOST people completely by accident , but YOU will KNOW to ask for THIS

person – specifically. Unlike most car salespeople, THIS person is usually paid a SALARY –

PLUS bonuses – NOT commission only, and for this reason, this person tends to be A LOT less

“cut-throat” than a salesperson and WAAAAAY easier to deal with. In fact, THIS is one of the

ONLY people at a dealership who is even ALLOWED to work your car deal COMPLETELY over

the phone, and they do it ALL the time – but ONLY for the people who know HOW to do it.

To use this technique and this person's position to your advantage, you MUST know what you

want. I feel that I have to say this, because you wouldn't BELIEVE the number of people who

go car shopping at dealerships and have NO IDEA what they want. This is okay, if it's done properly,

but for most people, this can be the ABSOLUTE WORST way to buy a car. MOST people who

do their car shopping this way will just talk to the first salesperson who greets them, and they'll talk

and walk around the car lot until they see a car that they REALLY like. Then they'll test drive it,

FALL IN LOVE with it, and will make a BAD BUYING DECISION. These folks can almost
always be sold a car at a HIGH PROFIT, because they will almost always let themselves get

“caught up in the moment” and will make their decision based on PAYMENT, not PRICE. If you

do your car shopping this way, you will usually LOSE – and sometimes, you will LOSE BIGGG!

Even if you don't know anything about cars, and have no idea what kind you want, you can still get

a GREAT deal! You just have to remember to SLOW DOWN, and use the KNOWLEDGE you've

gained from the rest of this booklet to buy your vehicle the RIGHT way. All you need is access

to the internet - and the KNOWLEDGE to find the RIGHT information – quickly. Once you have

this info, then you will talk to the RIGHT person at the dealership.

Ok, ok, ok – now I'm going to tell you just WHO this “mystery” person is that can help you get

a GREAT car deal – simply and easily. Are you ready to find out who it is – FINALLY?!?!?

(Drum roll, please) It's the INTERNET MANAGER, and almost every dealership today has someone

who works that position. THIS is the person YOU want to deal with when you buy your next vehicle,

and THIS is the person who can work your deal – COMPLETELY over the phone – or, most

likely, via texts and e-mails. Like I said earlier, car dealerships primarily have websites ONLY

because they HAVE TO in order to remain competitive with other dealers that do. The GREAT thing

is that SOME dealerships, especially large, high-volume sellers, use their websites to sell A LOT of

cars through their Internet Department. Most of the time, they DO NOT even expect to make BIG

PROFITS on these deals, because they ALREADY UNDERSTAND that MOST people who are

smart enough to shop online FIRST are going to shop at MANY dealerships and will have done

A LOT of price comparisons. When you ask to deal with the Internet Manager, they will

ASSUME that you have contacted several dealerships, and they will also assume that you already

have a good idea about prices from other dealerships. Remember that even IF the dealership that has
the BEST prices is several hours away, you can STILL use their price info to make the another dealer

compete to MEET or BEAT their advertised price.

You would think that EVERYBODY would KNOW to check a dealership's internet price, EVEN

IF they just “stumble across” that PERFECT car on a random visit to a car lot, but you would be

AMAZED by how many people neglect to do this. Very often people buy a vehicle and then go home

to see their vehicle on the dealer's website for THOUSANDS LESS than they paid for it. Then they

have the nerve to get mad at the dealership for not selling them the vehicle for the internet price –

AS IF the dealer isn't trying to sell EVERY vehicle they have for AS MUCH money as they can get.

Hey, you've gotta realize that dealerships DO NOT just volunteer their BEST PRICE – or their

internet price. YOU MUST DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH, including checking the internet price

for a vehicle you find while you're at a car lot. If a dealership has a website, and MOST DO, then

you should check their internet price BEFORE you agree to ANY price. For a dealership that is very

PRICE COMPETETIVE, the internet price WILL NOT be a HIGH- PROFIT price. Sometimes,

the internet price can actually be set at a price that LOSES money – JUST to draw the attention

of internet shoppers who KNOW to shop around for the best price.

Whether you find a vehicle that you like during a random visit to a dealership or through an

extensive internet search, the process you will use to get a GREAT deal is the same. You will have

to do a little online research and some simple price comparisons. Once you find a vehicle that you

think you want to buy, you should do ALL of the steps outlined in the chapters on buying a new

or pre-owned vehicle. If it's a new vehicle, then you will want to talk to the Internet Manager and

request that he or she e-mails you a copy of the Invoice Price and ALL of the rebates and incentives
that are available. If you're looking to buy a pre-owned vehicle, then you will need to do some online

shopping to COMPARE prices – again, I recommend within 500 miles.

I STRONGLY RECOMMEND that you use Autotrader.com for this part of your research, because

it allows you to do VERY SPECIFIC SEARCHES for multiple types of vehicles - AT THE SAME

TIME. For example, if you've narrowed your choices down to a Honda Accord, Toyota Camry or

Nissan Altima, then Autotrader.com allows you to search for JUST these three vehicles – ALL at the

same time. It also allows you to narrow your search by seeking ONLY vehicles that meet certain

criteria, such as mileage limits, automatic or manual transmission, leather interior, sunroof, and EVEN

vehicles that fall within a pre-set PRICE MAXIMUM. This way, even if you just happen to

“stumble across” the car you LOVE during a casual visit to a car lot, you can STILL make the

dealerhip have

to COMPETE to offer you the BEST PRICE.

You should also remember to check the book values for ANY pre-owned vehicle you intend to buy,

via KellyBlueBook.com and NADA.com – and NEVER pay the stated Retail Value – EVER.

In fact, for a pre-owned vehicle, you should ALWAYS try to buy it for TRADE-IN VALUE, or LESS.

Why?? Because the dealerships ALMOST ALWAYS buy THEIR vehicles for LESS THAN this

price, whether they acquire the vehicle at an auction OR if they accept it is as a trade-in from a

customer. PLEASE believe me when I tell you that car dealers are cold and calculating – NOT

EMOTIONAL – when they make purchase decisions, and they make these decisions “strictly by

the books”. To BEAT them at THEIR game, YOU will have to be THE SAME WAY.
 For this reason, I ALMOST ALWAYS recommend that you DO NOT buy a vehicle on your

FIRST visit to a dealership. The dealer will PUSH and PUSH you to make a decision THAT day,

because they KNOW that their BEST chance to make a HIGH-PROFIT deal off of you is to get you

EXCITED and in a heightened emotional state, so that you WILL NOT take the time to do your

research and price comparisons. PLUS, by NOT making your purchase decision on the same day,

you will make the dealership work A LITTLE BIT HARDER – and usually lower their price

some more - to get you to come BACK to buy their vehicle. It's AMAZING how often I've seen a

deal that was quoted as “THE BEST DEAL POSSIBLE” become EVEN BETTER when a

customer simply WALKS AWAY from the deal – and WAITS for a manager to CHASE them to

their car with a “FANTASTIC FINAL OFFER” – or CALLS THEM BACK over the next day

or two, with an even BETTER deal.

When you deal with the Internet Manager, you are dealing with a person who can work EVERY

detail of your car deal over the phone or via e-mails – and they EXPECT you to be talking to Internet

Managers from SEVERAL dealerships. At many car dealerships, the Internet Manager even has a

TIME LIMIT to respond to your questions or requests for more information. They WON'T give you

the “run-around” when you ask for prices, and they can arrange to have ALL of the details of your

car deal “worked out” BEFORE you ever arrive at the dealership. Very often, I've seen customers

work with Internet Managers through e-mails, and when they finally get to the dealership, their paper-

work is READY & WAITING to be signed – and the customer's deal is FINISHED in LESS than

45 minutes! Now, THAT'S how you buy a vehicle LIKE A TRUE PRO – on YOUR terms and

on YOUR time – with NO GAMES, HASSLES or HEADACHES. And now that you know WHO
to deal with at the car dealership, YOU CAN DO it too. Won't it feel GREAT to NEVER to have

to deal with a “profit-hungry” salesperson again? I KNOW, RIGHT? I DON'T deal with them

when

I buy MY vehicles, and now that YOU KNOW to work with the Internet Manager - and how to

negotiate YOUR deal BEFORE you go to the dealership - YOU don't have to deal with them either.

After you negotiate for the BEST PRICE and the BEST INTEREST RATE, DON'T THINK

that your GREAT DEAL is COMPLETE. You STILL have ONE MORE STEP to go, and that is

dealing with the Finance Manager. Have you ever negotiated what you thought was a GREAT DEAL,

only to go into the Finance Manager's office and come out of there with a payment $50-$100 MORE

than you and the salesperson or Internet Manager discussed? The Finance Department is the MAIN

area that dealerships use to make EXTRA PROFIT in a car deal, and, in some cases, they make

A LOT more money by selling you Finance products than they make off the car you buy. Granted,

if you CHOOSE to purchase additional products through the Finance Department, then those items

WILL cost you some money, but I'm going to show you how to MINIMIZE the INCREASE in your

monthly payment by showing you how to get BIG discounts on extended warranties, service plans

and ANY other Finance “products”. That's because MOST people DON'T KNOW that you can –

and MUST – negotiate the price on THESE items too. That's right; you can EVEN get BETTER

DEALS on Finance products – IF YOU KNOW HOW – and IT'S EASY to do.

Did you know that for MOST of the various items the Finance Manager will offer you are VERY

NEGOTIABLE, and there can be OVER 100% MARK-UP in them? What this means is the price

they sell these products for can be MORE THAN TRIPLE their cost to the dealership! That's right
– TRIPLE! So, that extended warranty they offer you for, let's say $3,500, probably only cost

THEM
about $800 - $1,200 – and the GAP protection they offer you for $1,200, probably only cost THEM

about $300 - $500. With this information in mind, you can STILL get the extended warranty and/or

the GAP protection – for a much lower price than the Finance Manager tries to charge you. Just

by knowing this information, you can SAVE THOUSANDS of DOLLARS by simply asking for

a LOWER PRICE for ANY Finance products you choose to buy. The Finance Manager will

probably look at you like you're TOTALLY CRAZY when you ask for a lower price for that extended

warranty, but, if you stand your ground and INSIST on getting the PLATINUM Warranty for the

SAME PRICE as the Basic Warranty – you will usually get it – or a price that is VERY CLOSE.

This “secret”, little-known tactic ALONE can SAVE YOU a FEW THOUSAND DOLLARS in

the Finance Office.

Car salespeople and managers tend to have BIG EGOS, and it is highly embarrassing for a Finance

Manager to lose a deal after a customer goes into their office to complete their paperwork. You CAN

and SHOULD use this fact to YOUR FULLEST advantage. Believe me, the car dealers use a lot

of psychology and sales training to get you to do what THEY want you to do - without you even

knowing it – and now you can play their game right along with them – and WIN. It's also very

important to remember that when you're dealing with a Finance Manager, you are dealing with a

person who is an expert at “juggling numbers”, so when you ask for a LOWER PRICE on

finance products, the Finance Manager may try to SWITCH YOUR FOCUS – AWAY from PRICE,

and BACK to PAYMENT. DO NOT fall for this trick! In fact, when you see the Finance Manager

try

this tactic, you should KNOW that you are WINNING the negotiation, and the manager is trying

hard to find a way to make some MONEY off of your deal – SOMEHOW.
 The most common method they will use will be to change the TERM, meaning the number

of months, of your loan. Whereas, you may have already agreed on the PRICE, INTEREST RATE,

and the TERMS, the Finance Manager will STILL try to get you to INCREASE the number of

months of your car deal. DO NOT fall for this, NOT even by 3 months, because even if you agree

to JUST 3 MORE months at, let's say, $400 a month, then you would be agreeing to pay an extra

$1,200 over the term of your loan. This is where you need to remain PATIENT, and, NO MATTER

how BADLY you WANT to buy the vehicle, you must STILL be willing to get up and WALK AWAY

from the deal. Believe me, ALMOST NOTHING frustrates a dealer MORE than having a deal

almost DONE, only to have the customer walk away from the deal, ESPECIALLY AFTER they've

gone into the Finance Manager's office. THIS is a BIG “NO-NO” in the car business, and the

Finance Manager will do EVERYTHING in their power NOT to “blow the deal” - NO MATTER

WHAT it takes - EVEN IF it means LOSING money to finish the car deal!
 Chapter 9

The Final Step - Reviewing Your Paperwork:

 There is ONE MORE VERY CRUCIAL thing you MUST remember about getting a GREAT car

deal, and that is this: “The deal AIN'T DONE until you COMPLETELY review ALL of the

paperwork.” You would be SHOCKED to know how many people actually negotiate a GOOD

DEAL for themselves, ONLY to find out that the paperwork they signed WAS NOT the same as what

they agreed to verbally. DO NOT be one of those people. BEFORE you leave the dealership, YOU

MAKE SURE that the VEHICLE PRICE, INTEREST RATE, EXTENDED WARRANTY

PRICE and the NUMBER OF MONTHS is EXACTLY the SAME as what was agreed. If you trade

in a vehicle, you should MAKE SURE that the amount that you were told you were getting for your

trade-in is THE SAME as the amount on your paperwork – including the EXACT 20 DAY

PAYOFF amount. You should even DOUBLE-CHECK the sales tax, because it is VERY

COMMON for car dealers to CHARGE YOU MORE for sales tax than your county actually does.

This is HIGHLY illegal, but if you don't catch it, some dealers WILL overcharge you – and THIS

can be $100's MORE dollars over and above what you owe.
 Regarding your paperwork, you should also BE AWARE that NOTHING MATTERS unless it is

put IN WRITING. So, if a manager or salesperson promises to include FREE oil changes or car

washes or gas or ANYTHING as a part of your car deal, you should MAKE EXTRA SURE that you

GET EVERYTHING IN WRITING – AND signed by a manager, or it DOES NOT COUNT.

If you fail to do this, you will probably be UNPLEASANTLY surprised when you go back to the

dealer for those “extras” you were promised.

If you follow ALL of the steps outlined in this guide, you will be one of the FEW people who

actually UNDERSTANDS how to get a GREAT car deal. Now that you know this information,

hopefully you can finally SEE that it REALLY IS NOT that difficult to do – once you know HOW.

By now, you should be FULLY prepared to go to ANY car dealership and get a GREAT DEAL on

a vehicle. In fact, if you want to PRACTICE, just wait until the next person you know gets ready to

buy a vehicle. GO WITH THEM, and be ready to SHOW OFF YOUR SKILLS!
 Chapter 10

Inside the “Play Book” of an Auto Dealership –

“TOP SECRETS” EXPOSED!

 Have you ever played sports – like baseball, football or basketball? If you have, then you

understand that these sports ALL use “play books”. Well, what do you think would happen in a

game – if one team had a copy of the OTHER team's play book? Wouldn't you expect the team that

had the “inside info” to win the game – ALMOST EVERY TIME? Exactly! This booklet has

ALREADY given you A LOT info from the car dealers' play book, but this next piece will REALLY

BLOW YOU AWAY. It will be like having an ACTUAL COPY of the car dealers' play book. If the

car sales profession was affiliated with the mafia, I would DEFINITELY get “WHACKED” for

telling you this next part.

Have you ever noticed that the REALLY good salespeople tend to say the SAME THINGS?

Have you EVER wonder WHY? It's because they ALL undergo the SAME SALES TRAINING.

Did you know that BIG car dealerships often spend THOUSANDS of dollars – every month –

just to TRAIN their salespeople to know HOW to SELL you a car – for MAXIMUM PROFIT –

WITHOUT you even KNOWING it or suspecting it. In fact, it's a common saying in the car business

that “Customers who you make THE MOST money on usually leave the dealership the

HAPPIEST!” Go figure, huh. That's because when a well-trained, professional car

salesperson/sales manager does THEIR job well – if you have NO CLUE about what you're doing at

the dealership – YOU WON'T EVEN NOTICE it when they “POUND YOUR A&&” on a car

deal – while YOU'RE thinking you got a GOOD DEAL and even sending your friends and family

members to buy from THE SAME “SHARK” who GOT YOU!

 If you REALLY want to take your KNOWLEDGE about how to buy a car to the NEXT LEVEL,

then you should STUDY the Same training materials the car salespeople study – and YOU CAN.

Have you ever heard of Grant Cardone? Unless you're in the car business, you probably haven't,

but The Cardone Group is probably the #1 AUTO SALES TRAINING PROGRAM on the planet.

Auto dealerships ALL OVER AMERICA spend TENS OF THOUSANDS of dollars on these

training manuals and materials. In fact, I've worked for automobile dealerships in which they

REQUIRE up to 2 WEEKS of this training BEFORE a new sales-person is even ALLOWED

to even TALK to a potential customer. YES, people, it is THAT serious.

Due to the wealth of psychological studies that have been developed about people's buying patterns

and habits, you can almost GUARANTEE that when you talk to a sales person or a manager at a large

auto dealership – you are talking to a HIGHLY TRAINED SALES PROFESSIONAL – who

often makes WELL OVER $100,000 a year! If you want to know what THEY are taught in their

sales training, YOU need to STUDY what THEY study – and, that is Grant Cardone Sales Training.

Although dealerships pay BIG MONEY to have access to these courses, YOU can view them for

FREE, via YouTube and other Google Search websites. With THIS info, you will UNDERSTAND

the car SELLING process, from the DEALER'S point of view, so YOU will be able to KNOW what

the guy at the dealership is gonna say – BEFORE he even says it – and they won't be able to do

ANYTHING to trick you – EVER again! Now, go out there, and get yourself a GREAT car deal –

and HAVE FUN making the folks at the car dealership SQUIRM with TOTAL FRUSTRATION.
 Chapter 11

Seven “Gold Nuggets” of Knowledge & Wisdom:

 Golden Nugget #1:

How to Get the Most Money for Your Trade-In

I didn't list this piece of info earlier, but it's one of those “little things” that is a VERY BIG

thing. That is, if you're trading in a vehicle with your purchase, other than making sure you know the

Kelly Blue Book and NADA Trade-In Values and the average selling prices for your vehicle on car

shopping sites like Autotrader.com, you should MAKE SURE your vehicle EXTRA CLEAN –

inside and out BEFORE you have a dealer appraise it. You would THINK people would just

KNOW to DO this, but THEY DON'T – and it costs them money. Although the appraiser or the

Used Car Manager at the dealership will tell you that “dirt doesn't matter”, THAT IS A BIG, FAT

LIE. It can make a BIG DIFFERENCE in how much you get for you trade-in – sometimes OVER

A THOUSAND DOLLARS – just by making your trade-in look clean.

If your vehicle needs tires, it would probably be worth your investment to buy a good set of USED

tires for it. If your seats are covered with stains, you should shampoo them. If your engine area is

filthy, you should invest about $5 for a can of engine degreaser to make it look clean and shiny. If

your car has a foul smell, ESPECIALLY from smoking, then do WHATEVER you must do to get rid

of the odor. If your oil is due to be changed, then get it done, so when the appraiser looks at your oil, it

will be looking fresh and clean. Last, but DEFINITELY NOT least, MAKE SURE the OUTSIDE

of your car is as clean and shiny as possible – even if you have to WAX it. Doing these “little

things” will get you MORE MONEY for your trade-in, and the MORE MONEY you get for
YOUR vehicle - the LESS MONEY you pay for THEIRS.
 Golden Nugget #2:

Keep Your Eyes on THE TRUE BOTTOM LINE – and DON'T Get Deceived by the Dealer

Sometimes, the paperwork involved with negotiating and completing a car deal can get confusing.

I mean, they can throw A LOT of different numbers at you, in several different configurations. YES,

this IS done ON PURPOSE – TO confuse you and to get your thinking leaning towards a

PAYMENT – and to FORGET about the PRICE. Of course, this WON'T work with YOU, but

they will probably try it anyway. Here's how to avoid getting fooled by this “number-switching”

game. You just have to remember that THE BOTTOM LINE IS THE BOTTOM LINE. What that

means is that AFTER you've negotiated the BEST PRICE, the BEST INTEREST RATE, an

acceptable amount for your TRADE-IN, the CORRECT AMOUNT calculated for your VEHICLE

PAYOFF and the TERMS, or number of MONTHS of your loan and the correct SALES TAX

amount – then you simply need to look at THE BOTTOM LINE dollar amount. THIS amount is

your TOTAL SALES PRICE. Now, this amount IS NOT necessarily the number that's on the bottom

of the page on the Buyers' Order/Purchase Order, because SOMETIMES the dealer will put in a

DOWN PAY-MENT amount that you MAY NOT HAVE EVEN AGREED TO PAY on the line -

JUST BEFORE the TRUE BOTTOM LINE. By doing this, the number that ends up on the bottom

of the page IS NOT the TRUE BOTTOM LINE PRICE. It's a “slick” little trick that dealers

use when presen-ting figures to you, and it works MOST of the time – at least well enough to get the

conversation SHIFTED to down payment and/or monthly payment or ANYTHING other than the

PRICE.
 Here's a quick example. Let's say the TRUE BOTTOM LINE/TOTAL SALES PRICE for a

vehicle you're trying to buy – with NO MONEY DOWN - is $30,000. What the dealer will try to do

is to show you a LOWER figure on their “FALSE BOTTOM LINE”, by DEDUCTING A

DOWN PAYMENT of, let's say $2,500, from the $30,000 figure. That would make the number that

ends up

on the bottom of the page be $27,500 – NOT $30,000. MOST people fall for this trick, because,

if you're not paying CLOSE attention, YOU WON'T catch it. Usually, how it goes from here is that

you will agree to all of the figures – without even noticing that a $2,500 down payment has been

included. This little trick makes it LOOK LIKE you're only paying $27,500 for the vehicle.

MOST folks don't figure out what's going on until they go into the Finance Office to complete their

paperwork, and the Finance Manager asks them for a check for $2,500! What usually happens from

there is that the Finance Manager will apologize PROFUSELY for the misunderstanding and then

make it seem as if it was YOUR FAULT for NOT noticing that a down payment of $2,500 was a part

of the deal – which it WOULD BE – because ALL of the numbers WERE presented to you –

RIGHT THERE IN YOUR FACE. The next thing they will do is show you how much your monthly

payment will have to go UP because of YOUR failure to see that the figures you were shown included

the down payment. If you don't just agree to the higher payment, they will proceed to show you how

you can keep your MONTHLY PAYMENT THE SAME as agreed – or even LESS - WITH LESS

MONEY or NO MONEY DOWN. THIS is where MOST people TOTALLY LOSE FOCUS, and

BLOW what may have been a VERY GOOD DEAL. THIS is where the Finance Manager can

“juggle the numbers”, by increasing the number of months, the interest rate, the amount charged for
the warranty or service plans, the sales tax percentage or ANY of the OTHER variables. You see,

simply
By increasing the number of months – EVEN SLIGHTLY (3-6 more months) – the Finance

Manager can usually show you how to make the $2,500 down payment from this example NOT

NECESSARY – and can STILL keep your PAYMENT the SAME as agreed – or EVEN LESS.

If this happens, ALL you just have to KEEP YOUR FOCUS on the TRUE BOTTOM LINE,

which is the TOTAL SALES PRICE – with NO MONEY DOWN – which, in this case, is

$30,000.

If THAT NUMBER EVER CHANGES, then you KNOW that SOMETHING is WRONG. The

ONLY ACCEPTABLE CHANGE for YOUR TOTAL SALES PRICE is DOWN – NEVER UP

– NOT even by a SINGLE DOLLAR! You see, MATH is MATH, and the ONLY WAY the

Finance Manager, or ANYBODY else can ADD MORE COSTS is to ADD them in with the rest of

the figures – SOMEWHERE - and this increase will ALWAYS show up as an INCREASE in your

TRUE BOTTOM LINE PRICE. There's just NO WAY around it. So, no matter how many times

they have to show you different sets of figures and different ways of arranging your financing, as long

as your TRUE BOTTOM LINE PRICE stays the SAME – or LESS – you CAN'T be tricked.

Golden Nugget #3

DOUBLE-CHECK the BOTTOM LINE by KNOWING the TOTAL of PAYMENTS

Another way to DOUBLE-CHECK any re-presentations of your figures by the dealer is to

calculate your TOTAL of PAYMENTS. This number is simply your MONTHLY PAYMENT

multiplied by the NUMBER of MONTHS of your loan. So, a monthly payment of $300 multiplied

by 60 months of payments would give you a TOTAL of PAYMENTS figure of $18,000. Since this
figure is your TOTAL of payments, by definition, it includes your vehicle's price, sales tax, interest
charges and any dealer fees. For an example like this one, if you get shown a different way of

financing this same deal, let's say, $269 for 72 months, you simply need to recalculate your TOTAL

of PAYMENTS, which would be $269 x 72, or $19,368 – for an INCREASE of ALMOST $2,000!

In a situation like this, a Finance Manager could show you a REDUCTION in your PAYMENT –

which MIGHT LOOK BETTER – but ACTUALLY INCREASES your TOTAL of PAYMENTS

by ALMOST TWO GRAND! So, WATCH the TRUE BOTTOM LINE!

Golden Nugget #4

Getting Financing for a Vehicle You Want to BUY From a Private Owner

If you're just wanting to buy an inexpensive vehicle, without having to go through all of the

HASSLE of dealing with a dealership – BUT YOU DON'T have ALL of the money you need

to buy a car with cash – here's an often forgotten, “old school” strategy that doesn't get used

as often as it should. Let's say you only have $1,500 - $2,500, and you would REALLY PREFER

to just pay cash for a car and NOT have a monthly payment – BUT – you REALLY DON'T LIKE

the quality of cars that are available in your price range. Here's a way that you can get 3X as much car

with your money – and ONLY have a RIDICULOUSLY LOW, SHORT-TERM monthly payment,

that will actually HELP you build or maintain a GOOD CREDIT rating.

This is a GREAT OPTION that can help you use your CASH more WISELY, and when you buy

a vehicle this way, you will ALMOST NEVER be “upside-down” or “underwater” in ANY

vehicle you buy . In fact, when you buy vehicles this way, there will be times when you can SELL the

vehicle 2 or 3 years later, and STILL get A LOT of your MONEY BACK – OR – you will have a

vehicle that is still in GOOD CONDITION that you ACTUALLY OWN – with a FREE and
CLEAR TITLE.

For this example, if you have $2,000 CASH, here is a way that you can get a MUCH NICER

vehicle, in the $6,000-$8,000 price range – and have a payment that is CRAZY LOW. For vehicles

in this price range, you can usually get a MUCH BETTER deal if you buy from a PRIVATE

OWNER. In MOST counties, this will SAVE you SALES TAX and any DEALER FEES associated

with buying from a dealership. To do this to YOUR BEST ADVANTAGE, you STILL have to

remember to use the skills you have learned when it comes to buying a per-owned vehicle. Whether

it's from a private owner or a dealership, you ALWAYS negotiate a car deal based on PRICE, and the

ONLY LOGICAL WAY to KNOW what a vehicle is worth is ALWAYS the SAME – and that is

to check the BOOK VALUES and to do some “wide-range” comparison shopping for THE SAME

VEHICLE in SIMILAR condition. Again, I STRONGLY RECOMMEND Autotrader.com, as it

gives you more variety in your SEARCH criteria, allowing you to find EXACTLY what you're

looking for FASTER. But, when used correctly, you can also use Craigslist as a good tool to

COMPARE local prices for the vehicle you're considering; just REMEMBER to type in the

SPECIFIC vehicle you're looking for in the search area, and sort by PRICE (from lowest to highest).

Okay, so you've found the PERFECT vehicle for YOU! It's FOR SALE; it's still available;

it's from a PRIVATE OWNER; the Book Values average out to be around $9,000, and you can BUY

it for ONLY $7,000 – BUT you ONLY have $2,000. WHAT DO YOU DO?!!? While a situation

like this may make this vehicle seem TOTALLY OUT OF REACH for you, it could actually be a

GOOD POSITION to be in, from an investor's – OR A LENDER'S – point of view. With YOUR

$2,000 DOWN, you would only need to finance $5,000 for a vehicle that the BOOK VALUES show
is worth $9,000. Hey, that's a GREAT POSITION to be in for a vehicle – and the LENDERS

KNOW it. For a transaction like this, you could go to YOUR bank, or a different local bank or credit

union to apply for a SECURED LOAN to BUY this vehicle. It's called a SECURED LOAN,

because the loan is SECURED by the vehicle, which is called the COLLATERAL. From a lender's

position, they would only have to loan you $5,000 for an item that is VERIFIABLY WORTH $9,000

– and if you DON'T make the payments, they get to REPO the vehicle. Heck, MOST banks would

approve a loan application like this “in a heartbeat”, even if you DON'T have the BEST CREDIT

– just based on the NUMBERS of the deal. THEY would only have $5,000 invested in an item that's

worth $9,000. It's almost a “no-brainer” for them, and YOU STILL WIN – BIG TIME.

With most lenders, you can get a SECURED loan for a vehicle in this price range, depending upon

the year model, for anywhere from 24-48 months. If you wanted to OWN the car in JUST TWO

YEARS, your PAYMENT for 24 months would be somewhere in the ballpark of $250

a month. For 36 months, your payment would be around $175 a month, and for 48 months,

you would have a STUPID LOW monthly payment in the range of ONLY $120-$140 a month –

WHILE HELPING to BUILD or MAINTAIN your GOOD CREDIT RATING.

Some of you may also want to consider THIS method of financing for your child's vehicle –

ESPECIALLY if THEIR NAME can be included on the loan application (generally requires them

being at least 18 yrs old) – as it will teach them the DISCIPLINE and RESPONSIBILITY required

to make payments over TIME - which will help them build a GOOD CREDIT RATING – EARLY

in LIFE. Using this method, you could even buy a vehicle for $10,000 – as long as its BOOK
VALUE is around $12,500 – and, with your $2,000 DOWN, you would only have to finance $8,000
– for a vehicle that THE BOOK VALUES SAY is worth $12,500. Hey, THAT'S SWEEEEEET!

PLUS, your payments for 36 months would STILL BE VERY LOW – around $250 a month – or

closer to $200 a month for 48 months. For vehicles in the $10,000 and UNDER price range, you can

generally DO YOURSELF A BIG FAVOR and SAVE YOURSELF SOME HEADACHES if you

buy from a PRIVATE OWNER – and arrange your OWN financing with a lender.

If your credit is NOT quite good enough to get financing through a bank or credit union, you can

also use this technique to purchase from a PRIVATE OWNER – BUT with an “in-house”

financing type auto dealership handling the financing for you. In this case, if you've found the vehicle

you like, you can approach an auto dealer about buying it FOR you – and allowing you to make

payments to THEM. As a general guideline, they're going to want about AT LEAST 30% of the

PRICE of the vehicle as DOWN PAYMENT. The MAIN DISADVANTAGES to using an in-house

finance dealer for this kind of purchase is that they ARE going to charge you MORE than the PRICE

you arrange with the private owner, and the interest rate they offer you will probably be MUCH

HIGHER than a bank would charge – but AT LEAST, they can help you get the vehicle that YOU

want, not just what's available on THEIR car lot. If you use this method, it would be BEST to talk to a

dealer BEFORE you start car shopping, to find out EXACTLY what their criteria would be to handle

the financing for you, including the interest rate, the number of months and HOW MUCH they will

have to add to the SALES PRICE - OVER and ABOVE - the price you negotiate with the private

owner.
 Golden Nugget #5

Make Extra Money Helping Your Friends & Family Get Great Car Deals

Once you FULLY UNDERSTAND the information contained in this manual, you will essentially

be an EXPERT when it comes to buying a vehicle. Although you will KNOW that it REALLY

ISN'T difficult to negotiate a GREAT car DEAL, you will need to remember that MOST people

WILL NEVER KNOW how to handle this negotiation process correctly. That's where YOUR

OPPORTUNITY to make some EXTRA MONEY comes into play. WHENEVER you hear about

a friend or relative talking about buying a car, OFFER to HELP them – FREE of charge. Let them

know that you can act as their BUYING ASSISTANT and that you can help them SAVE TIME,

MONEY and A LOT of UNNECESSARY HEADACHES when they're ready. DID YOU KNOW

that dealerships will PAY YOU a REFERRAL FEE to do this – usually AT LEAST $100 – and

that

amount CAN be A WHOLE LOT MORE?!? I have made OVER $1,000 as a REFERRAL FEE

when acting as BUYING ASSISTANT – on several occasions!

Here's what you can do. When a person enlists you to be their BUYING ASSISTANT, you can

help them out in one of two ways. Either you can be a FULL SERVICE helper, meaning that you will

help them do everything – including finding their vehicle, negotiating the BEST PRICE and even

helping to arrange the financing. Or, you can just be a DEAL NEGOTIATOR, meaning that the

person would take you to the dealership with them, and you would essentially help them to approve

a vehicle, look up its book values, check out the Carfax Report, do some on-the-spot price
comparisons by checking around on Autotrader.com and other sites, checking out the Consumer
Guide Reports, etc. - and, basically “OK THE DEAL” for them – including getting them

discounts on any Finance products they may choose to buy. For doing THIS, you and the buyer can

inform the dealer that YOU are their assistant and will be expecting at least a standard REFERRAL

FEE.

As a FULL SERVICE assistant, you can even “build in” a referral fee that is WELL ABOVE

the standard $100 that most dealerships offer – and STILL be save your “client” A LOT of

money! Think about it; even if you negotiate a referral fee from the dealer of $500 – but you STILL

help a buyer SAVE THOUSANDS of DOLLARS and A LOT of HEADACHES – then you

will have just provided a GREAT SERVICE for someone - AND made $500! For SOME of you out

there, THIS can be a FANTASTIC way to make some EXTRA MONEY – from the comfort of

your HOME.

Hey, DON'T FORGET that it's FREE to post on Craigslist, or AT THE MOST only $5 to pay

for an ad that runs for 30 DAYS! I've sold A LOT of cars and earned A LOT of MONEY

in referral fees this way.

Golden Nugget #6

How to Accurately Calculate The TRUE BOTTOM LINE PRICE

In an earlier chapter, I advised you to keep your focus on the TRUE BOTTOM LINE PRICE,

so the dealer can't confuse you if they have to show you figures in more than one way. Well, it dawned

on me that I show you EXACTLY how to do this. It's really very simple. You begin with your
SALES PRICE, that is, the price you've agreed to pay for a vehicle. Then, if you have a trade-in, you

will DEDUCT the amount you are being given for YOUR vehicle from the SALES PRICE.
Next, you will ADD any dealer fee, or “doc fee”, as many dealers call it – IF YOU MUST. I say

“if you must”, because I DO NOT RECOMMEND you paying this fee – EVER. It is PURE

PROFIT for the dealership, and THEY WILL WAIVE IT – or reduce your SALES PRICE by

an EQUAL AMOUNT – IF you INSIST on it. Even if you can only get them to REDUCE this

amount, you will STILL SAVE MONEY, and EVERY DOLLAR counts, right?

Once you ADD the SALES PRICE and SUBTRACT your TRADE-IN VALUE and then ADD

any DEALER FEE, you will have your PRE-TAX SALES PRICE. Next, you will ADD the PRICE

of any Warranty or Service Plan you purchase. This number will be your TOTAL PRE-TAX SALES

PRICE. Then, you will MULTIPLY this TOTAL PRE-TAX SALES PRICE by the SALES TAX

RATE for your county to calculate your SALES TAX AMOUNT and your AFTER-TAX SALES

PRICE. Finally you will need to ADD the EXACT PAYOFF amount for your trade-in back IN with

the figures, if there is still a balance owed to a lender. We can call this your AFTER TAX/AFTER

PAY-OFF price. Finally, you will take THIS number and ADD your tag fee (usually about $3 - $5;

for exact info, check with your local DMV) to come up with your TOTAL SALES PRICE. THIS

figure is your TRUE BOTTOM LINE PRICE – with NO MONEY DOWN – and you should

NOT stray from it. If you ARE putting money down, then THAT AMOUNT will be

SUBTRACTED from your AFTER TAX/AFTER PAYOFF PRICE.

Once you know your TRUE BOTTOM LINE PRICE, you can also find out your monthly

payment yourself. I recommend USAA's Auto Payment Calculator. If you will enter the TRUE

BOTTOM LINE PRICE, the interest rate and the number of months, it will calculate your payment.
 So, it will look like this:

Sales Price $15,998

(MINUS) Trade Allowance - $7,500

$8,498

(ADD) Doc Fee/Dealer Fee + $599 (IF YOU PAY IT)

Pre-Tax Sales Price $9,097

(ADD) Extended Warranty/Service Plan + $1,500

Pre-Sales Tax Price $10,597

(MULTIPLY) Sales Tax Rate @ 7% x .07

Sales Tax Amount = $741.79

+ $10,597.00

After-Tax Sales Price = $11,338.79

Next, ADD your vehicle's PAYOFF, of let's say + $9,000

After-tax/After Payoff Price = $20,338.7

Tag Fee (in Georgia, as of Aug 4, 2014) + $3.00

TRUE BOTTOM LINE SALES PRICE = $20,338.79

THIS NEXT LINE is where a dealer might try to HIDE a DOWN PAYMENT from you, like

$2,000, and HERE is where they will SUBTRACT it from the TRUE BOTTOM LINE SALES

PRICE of $20,338.79, giving the ILLUSION that your BOTTOM LINE PRICE is only $18,338.79.
 Golden Nugget #7

How to Get “EXTRAS & FREEBIES” Included With Your Great Car Deal

This LAST part will be the “grand finale”. I'm going to tell you another SECRET the dealers

don't want you to know. It's HOW you can get “FREE STUFF” included with your “already

GREAT” car deal. Believe me, they won't like it - but oh, well – YOU'RE gonna LOVE it.

They say “you'll never know what you can get – unless you ASK” , right? With that in mind,

you should ASK for as many “FREE extras” as you can have included with your GREAT car

deal. YOU SHOULD ASK for additional FREE oil changes, FREE tire rotations and FREE gas

fill-ups – JUST BEFORE you sign the paperwork. The dealer WON'T like it or want to - but

they WILL usually give you MORE - IF you just ASK for it. This move is really a VERY STRONG

BLUFF, but the car dealer doesn't have to know that. You should ACT like the exclusion of the

“extras” is a “DEAL-BREAKER”, meaning if they ARE NOT included, then you tell them

there is NO DEAL – or that you need to “think about” for another day or two. Then you STAND

UP, thank them for their time and all the information they've provided for you, and start to WALK

OUT of the Finance Office. At this point, you will see “who blinks first” - you OR the car dealer.

If you DON'T BLINK, you will ALMOST ALWAYS WIN - and even get XTRA FREE STUFF!

IF you use this KNOWLEDGE with WISDOM and UNDERSTANDING, buying a car will

be EASY for you. It may even become FUN when you see how much control YOU can have while

negotiating car deals, for yourself and maybe even for others. Now YOU can enjoy MANY YEARS
of giving the car dealers FITS, because now YOU KNOW HOW to buy a car – the RIGHT way!