The 6-Day Star Blanket - Betty McKnit

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Betty McKnit

Knitting and Crochet Design and

Instruction

Home » Betty’s Patterns » The 6-Day Star

Blanket

The 6-Day Star


Blanket

6-Day STAR Blanket


A variation of the classic crochet
pattern the

6-Day Kid Blanket by Betty McKnit


This variation of the classic 6-Day Kid

Blanket works from the center out into

the shape of seven-pointed star. As it

turns out this version is just as

addictive as the original! No one can

make just one 6-Day Blanket.

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Introduction:

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This fun and easy pattern is adaptable.

The blanket can be made in virtually

any yarn and you can continue to grow

it as big as you want.

Does it really only take 6 Days to

make?

Yes! The name comes from the original

6-Day Kid Blanket, which was toddler

sized and made with chunky yarn, and

took me an easy six days to make. This

variation uses the same stitches as that

original pattern, but you can use any

yarn and make it any size you want.

Regardless, it is a very quick make. You

will love how fast it works up.

First Timers

If this is your first time making a 6-Day

Blanket, and you are fairly new to

crochet, it might help you to make a

swatch of the original pattern on 37

chains while following along with my

video tutorials on my YouTube Channel.

I also have a Facebook Group and a

Membership Community to help you if

you get stuck.

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This pattern has video tutorials on

YouTube. The tutorials are meant to

help you understand this pattern, but

they are not intended to replace this

pattern or be used without it.

Details:

US Terminology

Finished Size: 12 rounds will make a

lovey sized blanket, keep going and

make a blanket as big as you want.

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Skill Level: Easy

Materials:

Approximate yardage for 2 common

sizes and weights:

For DK or #3 weight yarn

you will need approximately

1300 yards for a 40” baby

blanket and 2300 yards for a

60” throw-sized blanket.

For Worsted or #4 weight

yarn you will need

approximately 1000 yards

for a 40” baby blanket and

2000 yards for a 60” throw-

sized blanket.

Gauge: varies depending on your yarn.

Skill level: Easy

About your hook size:

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You will need a slightly larger hook

than you might normally use in order to

alleviate curling. I suggest starting with

the hook size suggested on the yarn

label, and have two larger hooks on

hand, .5 mm and 1 mm larger than the

recommended hook. Start with the

smallest hook and if the points of your

star begin to curl in the startup rows,

increase your hook by 5 mm. I’ve

worked my blankets starting .5 – 1 mm

above the recommended size and

moving up another .5 – 1 mm during

the setup rounds if my work curls. Lay

your blanket down after each round and


make sure it is laying flat. It’s usually
okay to increase your hook size after

the first round in which you experience

curling without ripping back. Check out

all of these tips for yourself and lay

your work down often and “admire it.”

If your work ru#es you have most

likely made a mistake somewhere and

added too many stitches. In my

experience it is unusual to see a blanket

ru#ing because the hook is too big. It’s

almost always because the crocheter

misread the pattern and added too

many stitches.

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About the row numbers:

In order to provide consistency across

all of the 6DKB pattern variations, I’ve


Manage consent

numbered the rows to correspond to

the original 6-Day Kid Blanket pattern.

The cluster rows are always Row or

Round 2 and 3, the dc rows are always

Row or Round 5 and 6, and the sc rows

are always Row or Round 4 and 7. This

makes it easy to adapt any pattern to

the Snowflake E$ect, Half Snowflake,

Popsicle, or the original Vivid Chevrons.

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You will be guided to work the rows in

the proper order; don’t let the numbers

throw you o$ or overthink a change in

the sequence.

Joining the rounds:

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Take care that you do not create extra

stitches when you join your rounds,

especially the sc rounds. See my

YouTube Channel for a tutorial video

guiding you to use stitch markers at the

start of the sc rounds.

Changing colors:

The first 6-9 rows of this version look

best when the yarn does not change

colors in the middle of a row, so if you

are using cake yarn, you may want to

purchase an extra cake so you can cut

colors for at least the first few rows.

After the center is complete, mid-row

color changes are not as obvious. Of

course you can always change colors

deliberately if you like.

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When changing colors, fasten o$ the

old color. Rotate the work and begin the

next color with a standing stitch in a

di$erent valley.

Abbreviations

ch: chain

dc: double crochet

dc2tog: double crochet 2 together

cluster

dc3tog: double crochet 3 together

cluster

rsc: reverse single crochet

sc: single crochet

sl st: slip stitch

sp(s): space or spaces

st(s): stitch(es)

Special Stitches:

dc2tog (cluster) – this stitch is a

cluster, not a decrease. It is worked as

follows: yo, pull up a loop, pull through

two loops, yo, pull up a loop IN THE

SAME STITCH/SPACE, pull through two

loops, yo and pull through all loops on

the hook. dc2tog complete.

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dc3tog (cluster) – this stitch is a

cluster, not a decrease. It is worked as

follows: yo, pull up a loop, pull through

two loops, *yo, pull up a loop IN THE

SAME STITCH/SPACE, pull through two

loops, repeat from *, yo and pull

through all loops on the hook. dc3tog

complete.

Begin Pattern

Ch 4, join with sl st to form a ring.

Set-up Round 11: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc),

13 dc into ring. Join with sl st to top of

ch 3. (14 dc total)

Set-up Round 2
2: ch 3, dc in same st. 2

dc in each st around. Join with sl st to

top of ch 3. (28 dc total)

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Set-up Round 33: ch 3, dc, *ch 3, 2 dc,

ch 1, 2 dc, repeat from * ending with ch

1, join with sl st to top of ch 3. (28 dc

with 7 ch 3 sps and 7 ch 1 sps)

Set-up Round 4
4: sl st in next dc and

ch 3 sp, [ch 3, 2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in same

sp. *dc3tog in ch 1 sp, [3 dc, ch 3, 3dc] in

ch 3 sp, repeat from *, dc3tog in last ch

1 sp, join with sl st to top of ch 3.

Set-up Round 5
5: sl st into the gap just

below your hook (between the dc3tog

and the 3 dc), [ch 2, dc2tog] in same sp,

*[3 dc, ch 3, 3dc] in ch 3 sp, dc3tog in

next 2 sps, repeat from * to last sp,

dc3tog, join with sl st to top of dc

cluster (be sure to join in the top of the

cluster and not to the ch 2).

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495

6-Day Viral Kid


Blanket
Set-up Round 6
6: ch 1, sc in same st, sc

in each st around, working 3 sc in ch 3

sps. Join with sl st to first sc (be sure to

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