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100 Morning Treats With Muffins Rolls Biscuits Sweet and Savory Breakfast Breads and More Sarah Kieffer Full Chapter PDF Scribd
100 Morning Treats With Muffins Rolls Biscuits Sweet and Savory Breakfast Breads and More Sarah Kieffer Full Chapter PDF Scribd
KIEFF
RAH ER
SA
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I C AT I O N
DED
TO A DA M—
Aimee Nezhukumatathil wrote, “Flour on the floor makes my sandals slip and
I tumble into your arms,” and that image sums us up quite nicely. This book, well,
all the books, wouldn’t be here without your encouragement and support.
All your dishwashing helped too. Thank you for making me laugh every single day.
Thank you for being my best friend. You’re my favorite one.
Contents Introduction 11
1
N ES, AND Q
UI
S CO C
, K
S
BR
IN
FF
EA
MU
DS
1) Blueberry Muffins 23
13) Maple Oatmeal Scones 52
2) Almond Poppy Seed Muffins 25
14) Traditional Scones 55
3) Mixed Berry Muffins 27
15) Cinnamon Scones 57
4) Caramel Apple Muffins 31
16) Ginger Orange Carrot Bread 60
5) Double Chocolate Banana Muffins 33
17) Apple Brandy Bread 63
6) Rhubarb Cream Cheese Swirl Muffins 35
18) Lemon Meringue Bread 64
7) Grapefruit Glazed Muffins 38
19) Brown Butter Banana Bread 67
8) Carrot Cake Muffins 40
20) Maple Poppy Seed Bread 71
9) Whole-Wheat Yogurt Muffins 42
21) Milk Chocolate Rye Bread 72
10) Happy Birthday Muffins 45
22) Pumpkin Bread 74
11) Apricot White Chocolate
Overnight Scones 47 23) Streusel-Bottom Bread 76
12) Banana Bread Scones 50 24) Sour Cream Chocolate Chip Bread 78
3
S TED AND FR
IE
Y EA D
T
T
EE
RE
SW
AT
S
38) Buttermilk Cinnamon Rolls 117
S
CO
2 KE
39) Maple Bourbon Caramel Rolls 120
FF
E
A
E 40) Toasted Sesame Sweet Buns 122
C
CA T
KES ND 41) Giant Carrot Cake Cinnamon Roll 125
AND BU
42) Cherry Rhubarb Streusel Buns 129
36) Pumpkin Doughnut Bundt Cake 109 57) Apple Cider Crullers 171
Pomegranate Sparkler
6
284
D
S
Introduction
Introduction
Throughout college I often worked the morning shift at the Blue Heron
Coffeehouse, in Winona, Minnesota. Our front door opened at seven
o’clock sharp, so I was scheduled for a disquieting start time, where
I began brewing coffee and pulling test shots of espresso as soon as I
stumbled through the door. When I moved back to Minneapolis a few
years later and began baking full time at Bordertown Coffee, that time
moved up even earlier, to five o’clock. All the scones, muffins, and cook-
ies needed to be baked, nestled on trays, and then neatly tucked into
the bakery case when our little shop opened for business each morning.
I had never considered myself a morning person Those many mornings alone in the kitchen
before, yet with each new day of rising early, I allowed my mind time to wander on the present
gradually found myself embracing those morning and the past. I thought of my grandma Ethel,
hours. Yes, when I threw those covers off after her towering frame hovering over her speckled
hitting the snooze button twice and left my warm countertop, her long fingers confidently rolling
bed behind (sometimes in the dead of winter! out pie dough. Baking scones took me back to
with wind chills of -20°F!), it was bleak. But after the Blue Heron, where pots of soup simmered
a few splashes of water from the faucet met my on the stove top and coworkers hummed along
sleepy eyes, and as I felt the brisk air hit my face to Joni Mitchell’s melancholy falsetto flowing
minutes later, I soon grew to love the quiet of the from the cheap stereo speakers. Some days I
early morning. With most of the city still asleep, couldn’t shake the news, listening to custom-
those dark hours were mine, and I spent them in ers and staff discuss in dismay as individuals,
solitude, quietly whisking, mixing, and stirring. nations, and humanity repeated their mistakes
12
again and again. As I baked each morning, I throughout the years are still before me. First, I
slowly understood that everything was new, and see the yellow laminate counters that my mom
100 Morning Treats
everything was old, and I was never alone: The always hated but still used to teach me how to
ritual of preparing food in the morning con- roll out cookie dough and stir together boxed
nected me with so many people, recipes, and cake batter on. The white counters with tiny,
stories across the years. The philosophers were colorful speckles at my grandma’s house are
right: We all belong to each other. not as clear, but I remember watching through
tears as she shaped bread dough while firmly
Today my alarm now goes off a little later. Ella
telling me that I would never find a husband
Fitzgerald and Louis Armstrong greet me each
because I couldn’t keep my bedroom clean.
morning with clear voices singing sweetly, and
There was the single foot of counter at the
two kittens knead their paws and purr gentle
apartment my husband and I made our first
encouragement to prod me out of bed. I am
home in; I baked so many cakes for so many
no longer rushing to a coffeehouse but rousing
birthdays in that tiny space, piping borders and
sleepy children and frantically making lunches
flowers with homemade buttercream. Then, of
to go, in desperation
course, all the stainless
not to miss the bus. It’s
steel surfaces at the
still often chilly at the
bakeries I worked in, the
bus stop here, but a
hours and hours of wash-
few moments later I’m “I want our summers to ing dishes and baking
home, and the house is
always be like this—a for ten-hour stretches.
suddenly quiet. I hold
my warm cup of coffee
kitchen wrecked with Last, my own well-worn
slab of butcher block
between my hands; often love, a table overflowing
that I work at each day,
Mary Oliver speaks in with baked goods
where all my cookbooks,
the silences between sips:
warming the already including this one, were
It is a serious thing /
warm air. After all the created, and where
just to be alive / on
hundred of cookies and
this fresh morning, / in pots are stacked, the
cinnamon rolls have been
this broken world. I am goodies cooled, and
cooled and devoured.
grateful for each of all the counters wiped Here, at this station, my
these fresh mornings.
clean—let us never be musings and work from
Soon after my cup is rescued from this mess.” the past intertwine with
empty I make my way those of the present, and
to the kitchen counter. –Aimee Nezhukumatathil, I imagine a connection
I may work from home “Baked Goods” to the myriad bakers
now, but all the count- before me: their delight
ers I leaned up against in creating something
13
beautiful, their laughter in failed attempts, and Cakes (page 91) are a personal favorite and
the pleasure in biting into something delicious have become a breakfast staple in my house.
Introduction
that their hands set out to make.
Sweet Yeasted and Fried Treats are tucked
I wrote this book, 100 Morning Treats, to cele- cozily in the middle, and you’ll find a range
brate the morning hours and to represent the of recipes from Buttermilk Cinnamon Rolls
baked goods and pastries I developed while (page 117) and Maple Bourbon Caramel Rolls
working in coffee shops and in my home. The (page 120) to Raspberry Caramel Bubble
recipes on the following pages are the result of Bread (page 146) and Everything Breakfast
nearly three decades of baking. My work hasn’t Pretzels (page 151).
always been easy, but there has been so much
Laminated Pastries is a slightly more advanced
joy I’ve discovered along the way. I hope that this
chapter. I especially love the Sheet Pan Danish
book brings you the same joy and fulfillment in
(page 194) and Cinnamon Twists (page 197), but
your life and in your kitchens in the years to come.
you’ll also find Kouignettes (page 190) and Rum
Raisin Buns (page 188).
H OW TO USE THIS BOOK
Recipes focusing on “The Weekend” follow, and
Most of the recipes in this book require basic for the first time ever I have included some
baking skills, such as creaming butter and add- savory recipes in a cookbook. All the recipes
ing ingredients to create a batter. A few are a here are perfect for weekend mornings, from
bit more complicated or require more of a time the simple Sesame Chocolate Rye Breakfast
commitment. Be sure to follow the baking tips Cookies (page 254) and Peanut Butter Granola
in the next pages and read through the lists for Bark (page 253) to the slightly more elevated
extra advice. Prosciutto Gruyère Croissants (page 227).
This book is divided into seven chapters, start- The Base Doughs and Breads come next, and
ing with Muffins, Scones, and Quick Breads, they are used repeatedly throughout the book.
a chapter full of (mostly) quick and delicious I am very excited to introduce my Brioche
breakfast treats. I included simple classics like Dough (page 259) and a new, laminated Danish
Blueberry Muffins (page 23, totally revamped Dough (page 276), as well as Milk Bread Dough
from my first book!) and Traditional Scones (page 262). There are also instructions on how to
(page 55), but also some twists on the old shape brioche, milk bread, and Danish loaves.
standbys, like Lemon Meringue Bread (page 64)
And, as always, I have a chapter of “Extras,”
and Streusel-Bottom Bread (page 76).
recipes to use with other recipes in this book
Coffee Cakes and Bundt Cakes are next, and or just by their merry selves: Quick Berry Jam
you will want to try Cardamom Bundt Cake (page 287), Pomegranate Sparkler (page 284),
with Coffee Glaze (page 104) and the Streusel and even an Easy Strawberry Smoothie
Coffee Cake (page 83). Creamy Jammy Coffee (page 285).
14
cup is slightly bigger. If you are not using a
G E NE R AL BAKIN G A DVICE
scale to measure these ingredients, I highly rec-
100 Morning Treats
G E T T I N G TO KNOW A RE CIPE It is vital to read ommend using a liquid measuring cup, so your
the entire recipe through before beginning a baked goods will turn out correctly.
baking project. It is essential to know all the
PINC H OF SALT This is called for occasionally
ingredients, details, and timing at the start to
throughout these pages. It is a little more than
help ensure the recipe succeeds. Once you feel
1/8 teaspoon, but less than ¼ teaspoon.
confident about how a recipe works, you can
then think about personalizing it. EGG WASH To make an egg wash, use a fork to
whisk 1 large egg, a pinch of salt, and 1 table-
M E A SU R I N G F LOUR Throughout this book,
spoon of water together in a small bowl.
1 cup of flour equals 142 g (or 5 oz). This is on
the higher end of the scale (1 cup of flour can MAK ING FR EEZ E-DR IED BER RY POW DER I often
range anywhere from 4 to 5 oz [113 to 142 g], call for freeze-dried berry powder. I find that it
depending on the baker), but I found that after really bumps up the flavor of the fresh berries
weighing many cups of flour and averaging in baked goods and also helps them retain
the total, mine always ended up around this their vibrant color. If a bite of a blueberry
number. muffin lasts three seconds, I find that the fresh
blueberries are present for up to two seconds,
Because most people scoop flour differently,
but the freeze-dried fruit hits in that last third
I highly encourage the use of a digital scale
second and really helps the berry flavor linger.
when measuring ingredients to get consistent
In most recipes, though, the powder is optional,
results, and I have provided weight measure-
and the recipes will still taste good without it.
ments for that reason.
To make berry powder, in a food processor,
I recommend the dip-and-sweep method for put an amount of freeze-dried berries equal to
flour if you are not using a scale: Dip the mea- the amount of powder called for in the recipe.
suring cup into the bag or container of flour, Pulse until the berries are broken down into a
then pull the cup out with the flour overfilling powder. You can sift the powder to get rid of
the cup. Sweep the excess off the top with a seeds if desired. Store the powder in an airtight
knife, so that you have a level cup of flour. container at room temperature. The longer it
is stored, the harder it gets, but it will last for
M E A SU R I N G SE M IS OL IDS Yogurt, sour cream,
2 weeks.
peanut butter, pumpkin purée, and the like are
all examples of semisolids: ingredients that LINING A PAN W ITH A PARC HMENT PAPER
fall somewhere between a liquid and a solid. I SLING A parchment paper sling makes it much
always measure these types of ingredients in a easier to get a bread or pastry out of the pan.
liquid measuring cup, which gives a little more Cut two pieces of parchment paper the same
volume than a dry measuring cup because the width as the bottom of your pan, and long
15
enough to come up and over the sides. Spray BUY AN OVEN THER MOMETER Many ovens are
the pan with cooking spray, and then place the not properly calibrated, and a wrong oven
Introduction
pieces of parchment in the pan, perpendicular temperature can greatly affect the outcome
to each other so each side has a bit of parch- of your baked goods. If your oven is running
ment overhang, making sure to push the sheets too hot, the outsides of your baked goods can
into the corners. bake faster than the insides, resulting in burning
and undercooked centers. If it is too cold, your
TEM P E R I N G C H O CO L AT E Tempering chocolate
baked goods may not rise properly or brown
allows it to set properly and gives the chocolate
properly. I have an inexpensive oven thermome-
a glossy, smooth finish. Throughout the book
ter that I keep hanging from the middle rack of
I use a “cheater’s method” to temper choc-
my oven, so I can keep an eye on the tempera-
olate, which is to melt most of the chocolate
ture inside. I also have an instant-read ther-
called for, and then finely chop the few ounces
mometer (the DOT Simple Alarm Thermometer
of chocolate left and stir it into the melted
by ThermoWorks), which I use to check my oven
chocolate until they are also melted, so that
temperature once a week.
the finished melted chocolate ends up around
88°F [31°C]. This method isn’t foolproof, but it’s PR EHEAT THE OVEN This ensures that you are
worked for me 99 percent of the time. placing your pan in the oven at the correct
temperature. Most ovens need at least 30 min-
utes to reach the correct temperature.
A FE W I M P ORTANT NOTES
ROTATE THE PAN HALFWAY THROUGH BAK ING
equipment and can often be the source of Whenever you open the oven door to check
baking issues. Most home ovens have hot on things, hot air spills out, causing the oven
spots, and possibly malfunctioning lights, fans, temperature to rapidly fall. Most ovens take
or thermometers—or all of the above. These a while to heat back up, and this can affect
factors can, of course, cause problems when baking. Clean your oven window and fix that
baking, and it is imperative to really get to broken light so you minimize the need to open
know your oven. Take time to know your hot the oven door.
spots, how the temperature fluctuates, and
how long your oven takes to preheat. Here
are some ways to help your oven out.
16
doughy in the middle even though the baking
The Temperature and Humidity
time has elapsed, keep it in the oven longer.
100 Morning Treats
of Your Kitchen
Using your eyes and nose will help you recog-
Humidity and temperature can greatly impact nize when your baked goods are done. Your
your baked goods. If your kitchen is too hot palate and hands are also good tools.
or humid, butter can soften and melt faster.
If you’ve let a dough or batter sit out in a hot
I N GR ED I EN TS
kitchen, the butter can also separate from the
dough, resulting in streaks and uneven baking. The following is a list of ingredients used in this
Ingredients such as flour, sugar, salt, and baking book. Most of these ingredients should be avail-
soda all soak up humidity that is lingering in able at your local grocery store, but for the few
the air. Over time, they will retain moisture, that are specialty items or hard to find, I have
and this can affect the outcome of the recipe. included a resources section at the back of the
Storing your ingredients in airtight containers book (page 298) to help you locate them.
will keep out moisture and help them stay fresh
Just like women’s pant sizes, many baking
longer.
ingredients vary from one brand to the next.
If your kitchen is too cold, this can cause prob- For example, each brand of flour labeled “all-
lems too. Butter will take longer to come to purpose” on your grocery store shelf contains a
room temperature and to cream with sugar. In different amount of protein, ranging from 9 to
all these cases, it important to pay close atten- 12 percent. Flour protein levels can also vary
tion to your environment. Which brings us to . . . within a brand from season to season, depend-
ing on the harvest. Butter has different levels of
Use Your Senses water and fat content, depending on the brand.
And one brand of granulated sugar may be
I am here to guide you as best I can through
coarser or finer than the next. These differences
each of these recipes, but my oven, equipment,
can and do affect baking outcomes. In the
ingredients, weather, and state of mind will
ingredient categories below, I list the brands I
be different than yours. External factors can
use for many of these staple items to help you
influence baking, but internal factors can too.
achieve similar outcomes.
Feeling depressed or anxious can influence your
concentration and, therefore, could possibly
Dairy and Eggs
alter how you read a recipe. Because I am not
there with you to guide you should any of these BUTTER All the recipes in this book call for
things occur, you need to rely on your senses. If unsalted butter. If you are a fan of salted
you open the oven and the cake looks like it is butter and decide to use it instead, you will
browning too quickly, check to see if it should want to use a little less salt overall in the
come out early. If the pumpkin bread is still recipe. European-style butter cannot always
17
be swapped for regular butter; the high fat lower-fat milk, as this may change the outcome
content can cause extra spreading or other of the recipe.
Introduction
problems. If European-style butter is used, it
will be noted in the recipe. For grocery store Cooking Oils
brands, I prefer Land O’Lakes unsalted butter. I
CANOLA AND VEGETABLE OIL Canola and veg-
do not suggest substituting oil for butter.
etable oil are the most common oils you’ll find
CR E AM C H E E SE I prefer Philadelphia brand in this book because of their neutral flavor.
cream cheese in my recipes; it tastes best over-
OLIVE OIL Use a good-quality extra-virgin olive
all and gives baked goods a “creamier” feel.
oil so the flavor shines in the final product.
CR È M E F R A Î C H E This is a matured cream
TOASTED SESAME OIL I love the flavor of
with a tangy flavor and a smooth texture. It
toasted sesame oil, and while it is often used
is used occasionally in this book, and there is
in savory cooking, I think pairing it with sugar
a recipe for making it at home (page 290) in
is delicious. I have a few recipes in the book
the “Extras” chapter. I use Vermont Creamery
that include it. I prefer toasted sesame oil over
crème fraîche when I’m not making my own.
regular sesame oil; I find it has a more intense
EG GS All the recipes here call for Grade A flavor that works well with sugar and vanilla.
large eggs. In its shell, a large egg should
weigh 2 oz [57 g]. For egg-rich recipes (such Salt and Spices
as Pastry Cream, page 288), I like to use local,
FLEUR DE SEL This is a delicate, moist salt that
farm-fresh eggs because they typically have
is usually used as a finishing salt. Because the
beautiful orange yolks. If the recipe calls for
crystals are larger, the salt takes longer to
room temperature eggs, you can place the
dissolve, and the taste lingers a bit longer.
cold eggs in a large bowl, cover them with
warm water, and let them sit for 10 minutes. If SPIC ES Make sure your spices haven’t been
you need to separate the egg white and yolk, sitting in your cupboard for years before using
it’s generally easier to start with a cold egg them. Although they appear to last forever,
because the yolk will be firmer. they do have a shelf life and can grow stale or
rancid over time. Spices retain their freshness
HEAV Y C R E A M Look for a heavy cream that
for 6 months to 1 year.
is pasteurized, but not ultra-pasteurized, if
possible, especially when making crème fraîche. TABLE SALT I use table salt rather than kosher
Heavy cream is also known as double cream. salt in all the recipes in this book unless other-
wise noted.
MIL K I tested all the recipes in this book with
whole milk unless otherwise noted. In most
cases, I don’t recommend replacing it with a
18
ALMOND FLOUR Almond flour is found in most
Sweeteners
grocery baking aisles or can be ordered online.
100 Morning Treats
B ROW N SU GAR Light brown sugar was used for Look for blanched almond flour, which removes
recipe testing in this book. If dark brown sugar the almond skins before processing.
is needed, it will be specified in the recipe.
HAZ ELNUT FLOUR Hazelnut flour is found in
CO N F E C T I O N ERS ’ S UGAR Confectioners’ sugar most grocery baking aisles or can be ordered
is also known as powdered sugar and icing online. To make it, you can pulse skinned hazel-
sugar. nuts in a food processor until finely ground.
Introduction
BIT T E RSW E E T A N D S E M IS WE E T CH OCOL AT E stitute for bar chocolate.
When shopping for semisweet and bittersweet
COCOA POW DER There are two kinds of cocoa
bar chocolate to use in baking, look for one
powder: Dutch-process and natural. Dutch-
that falls between 35 and 60 percent cacao,
process cocoa is treated; it is washed with an
and don’t use anything over 70 percent, as this
alkaline solution that neutralizes its acids and
can alter the taste and texture of the recipe.
gives it a more mellow, nutty flavor and a richer
(Bittersweet and semisweet can be confus-
color. Natural cocoa powder is left as is, and is
ing terms, as both can mean chocolate with
a very acidic, sharp powder. The recipes in this
a cacao percentage of anywhere from 35 to
book all call for Dutch-process cocoa powder.
99 percent.) Most recipes in this book call for
semisweet chocolate. W HITE C HOCOLATE White chocolate is made
from cocoa butter. Not all white chocolate is
When melting chocolate, chop the bar into fine
created equal, so use a brand you trust when
pieces. This will help the chocolate melt more
baking with it; Valrhona is a personal favor-
quickly and evenly and will give it less opportu-
ite. White chocolate chips do not always melt
nity to burn. Make sure that there is no water
well. White chocolate also melts more quickly
in your bowl when melting, or on your knife and
than dark chocolate, so be sure to stir it more
spatula, as contact with water can cause the
frequently than you would dark chocolate,
chocolate to seize, turning it grainy. Adding 1 or
especially when using the microwave.
2 tablespoons of hot water to the seized choco-
late and then stirring it can sometimes save it.
Vanilla
To melt chocolate in the microwave: Place
VANILLA BEANS To use a vanilla bean: With a
the chopped chocolate in a microwave-safe
sharp knife, split the bean lengthwise, and then
bowl, and microwave the chocolate on medium
scrape the seeds out of the bean with the dull
for 1 minute, then stop and stir the chocolate.
side of the knife or a spoon. Use the seeds in
Continue to microwave the chocolate in
the recipe as called for. The leftover pod can
20-second intervals, stirring after each one,
be dried and then finely ground in a food pro-
until the chocolate is almost completely smooth.
cessor to make a vanilla bean powder.
Remove the bowl from the microwave and then
stir until completely smooth. VANILLA EX TR AC T All the recipes in this book
use pure vanilla extract, and I don’t recommend
CACAO NI B S Cacao nibs have a complex, bitter
substituting artificial vanilla. However, pure
flavor and crunchy texture.
vanilla extract is expensive, and if you have a
CH O CO L AT E C H I P S Chocolate chips have less brand of artificial vanilla you enjoy, it will work
cacao than bar chocolate, which allows them to in these recipes.
H APTER
C 1
Muffins,
Scones, and
Quick Breads
“I came down
as soon as I
thought there
was a prospect
of breakfast.”
—Charlotte Brontë, Jane Eyre
23
My blueberry muffin baking experience started with a blue boxed mix, complete with tiny
dried blueberries. My mom would often make them to accompany dinner, and we would
M A KE S
1 2 M U F F IN S
Blueberry Muffins
SU GA R TO PPING ¾ cup [180 g] buttermilk, 1) Position an oven rack in the middle of
½ cup [100 g] granulated at room temperature the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F
sugar
5 tablespoons [70 g] [190°C]. Grease two standard twelve-cup
¾ teaspoon freshly unsalted butter, melted muffin tins (see Muffin Tins and Greasing
grated nutmeg the Pans, page 24). 2) FOR THE SUGAR
1/3 cup [75 g] vegetable
or canola oil TOPPING In a small bowl, whisk together
MUFFINS
¼ cup [60 g] sour cream, the granulated sugar and nutmeg. 3) FOR
2 cups [284 g] all-
purpose flour at room temperature THE MUFFINS In a large bowl, whisk
2 large eggs, at room together the all-purpose flour, almond
½ cup [50 g] almond
flour temperature flour, baking powder, salt, lemon zest, and
Pour the wet ingredients into the well in the Greasing the Pans
100 Morning Treats
dry ingredients and mix gently until almost If you’re using muffin liners, you don’t
combined. Fold in the blueberries until just have to grease the pan. Otherwise, it
incorporated, being careful not to overwork is absolutely necessary. Your best bet is
the batter. It should not be completely smooth; to use a pastry brush to “paint” butter
there should be some visible lumps and bumps. into the cavities and then dust them with
The muffin batter can be stored, covered, flour, but pan spray works well too. If
in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours before the muffins are not in liners, I also like to
baking. 4) Scoop a scant 1/3 cup of the bat- give the top of the pan a spray, so the
ter into every other muffin cup (see Muffin muffin tops don’t stick as much. I use a
Scoops, page 29). The batter should fill the cup floured pan spray in the cavities, and a
and mound slightly (using a scoop helps the non-floured pan spray for the top (the
tops mound). Sprinkle 1 to 2 teaspoons of the flour can burn on the top of the pan). I
sugar-nutmeg mixture evenly over each muffin. find this usually ensures an easy release.
5) Bake until the muffins are light golden
brown and a toothpick inserted into the center
of a muffin comes out with a few crumbs, Muffin Tins
rotating the pan halfway through baking, 17 to Standard muffin pans are surprisingly
20 minutes. Let the muffins cool in the tin for varied. After baking thousands of muffins
about 5 minutes, then gently remove them and in dozens of different pans over the last
transfer to a wire rack to cool for a few more two decades, I can report that nearly
minutes before serving. 6) Muffins are best every brand of muffin pan is slightly
eaten the day they are made, but they can be different. Because of this, your muffins
stored in an airtight container in the refrigera- may not bake up exactly like mine. When
tor for up to 2 days. testing recipes for this book, I found
that I preferred Nordic Ware Naturals
NOT E If your berries are out of season, adding twelve-cup aluminum commercial pans.
a little “berry boost” can help ramp up the My round scoop (see Muffin Scoops,
flavor. Combine 2 tablespoons [8 g] of freeze- page 29) matched the dimensions of the
dried berry powder (see page 14), 1 tablespoon muffin cups perfectly, and I liked the way
of granulated sugar, 1 tablespoon of water, my muffins baked up. In each recipe, I
a pinch of salt, and the blueberries in a small try to give both the amount of batter for
saucepan. Cook over low heat until the berries each cup and how full each cup should
are warm and coated in the sugar powder, be. But baking a test muffin in your pan
about 3 minutes. Set aside to cool, then swirl to see how it performs is always a good
into the recipe where the blueberries are idea. Muffins also often rise better when
called for. every other muffin cavity is filled.
25
There was a time when I couldn’t imagine a muffin that didn’t fall into one of four
categories: blueberry, lemon poppy seed, chocolate, or cranberry-orange. Those flavor
4) In a large bowl or liquid measuring cup, scoop helps the tops mound). Top each muffin
whisk together the granulated sugar, butter with a generous amount of the almond-and-
milk, melted butter, oil, sour cream, eggs, sugar mixture. 6) Bake until the muffins are
vanilla, and almond extract until completely light golden brown and a toothpick inserted
combined. Pour the wet ingredients into the into the center of a muffin comes out with a
well in the dry ingredients and mix gently until few crumbs, rotating the pan halfway through
almost combined, being careful not to overwork baking, 18 to 23 minutes. Let the muffins cool in
the batter. It should not be completely smooth; the tin for about 5 minutes, then gently remove
there should be some visible lumps and bumps. them and transfer to a wire rack to cool to
Dollop the almond cream over the top of the room temperature. 7) Muffins are best eaten
batter, then use a spatula to swirl it into the the day they are made, but they can be stored
batter with two or three turns until just incor- in an airtight container in the refrigerator for
porated; there will still be streaks of cream. up to 2 days.
The muffin batter can be stored, covered,
in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours before NOTE If you do not have almond cream on
baking. 5) Scoop a scant 1/3 cup of the batter hand, you can swirl in 1/3 cup [100 g] of lemon
into each muffin cup. The batter should fill the curd or your favorite jam.
cups and mound slightly in each cavity (using a
27
In between school years during college, I spent my summers working the afternoon/evening shift at the
Blue Heron Coffeehouse. This meant several things: I spent my entire shift drinking coffee, I stayed up
2) FO R T H E SW I R L In a small saucepan, stir 7) Bake until the streusel is golden brown and
Double Chocolate
Banana Muffins
MAK ES AB OUT
14 MUF F INS
1½ cups [213 g] all- 5 tablespoons [70 g] 1) Position an oven rack in the middle of
purpose flour unsalted butter, melted
the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F
¾ cup [75 g] Dutch- 3 large eggs, at room [190°C]. Grease two standard twelve-cup
process cocoa powder temperature muffin tins (see Muffin Tins and Greasing
2 teaspoons baking ¼ cup [60 g] sour cream, the Pans, page 24). 2) In a large bowl,
powder at room temperature whisk together the flour, cocoa powder,
¼ teaspoon baking soda 2 teaspoons pure vanilla baking powder, and baking soda. Make a
extract well in the center.
1¼ cups [250 g]
granulated sugar ¾ teaspoon salt
cont’d
1 cup [227 g] mashed 4 oz [113 g] semisweet
bananas (about 3 chocolate, finely
bananas) chopped
3) In a large bowl or liquid measuring cup, tops mound). Sprinkle the tops of the muffins
whisk together the granulated sugar, bananas, generously with the turbinado sugar. 5) Bake
buttermilk, melted butter, eggs, sour cream, until a toothpick inserted into the center of a
vanilla, and salt until completely combined. muffin comes out with a few crumbs, rotat-
Pour the wet ingredients into the well in the dry ing the pan halfway through baking, 18 to
ingredients and mix gently until almost com- 23 minutes. Let the muffins cool in the tin for
bined. Fold in the chopped chocolate until just about 5 minutes, then gently remove them and
incorporated, being careful not to overwork transfer to a wire rack to cool for a few more
the batter. It should not be completely smooth; minutes before serving. 6) Muffins are best
there should be some visible lumps and bumps. eaten the day they are made, but they can be
4) Scoop a scant 1/3 cup of the batter into each stored in an airtight container in the refrigera-
cup. The batter should fill the cups and mound tor for 2 days.
slightly in each cavity (using a scoop helps the
35
In Minnesota, rhubarb is the first sign that spring is actually, finally here, and b
akers
everywhere use it in abundance until berries make their debut later in the year.
R H U BAR B S WIRL ½ cup [120 g] buttermilk, 1) Position an oven rack in the middle of
1½ cups [150 g] chopped at room temperature the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F
rhubarb, in bite-size
2 tablespoons sour [190°C]. Line two standard twelve-cup muf-
pieces (see Note)
cream, at room fin tins with tulip liners (see Muffin Tins and
1/3 cup [65 g] granulated temperature
Greasing the Pans, page 24). 2) FOR THE
sugar
8 tablespoons [1 stick or R HUBAR B SW IR L In a small saucepan, com-
1 tablespoon water 113 g] unsalted butter, at bine the rhubarb, granulated sugar, and
room temperature
water. Heat over low heat, stirring occa-
C R E A M C H E E SE S WIRL ¾ cup [150 g] granulated sionally, until the rhubarb has broken down,
3 oz [85 g] cream sugar
12 to 15 minutes. Remove from the heat
cheese, at room
temperature ½ teaspoon salt and set aside to cool. 3) FOR THE C R EAM
4) FO R T H E M UFFINS In a small bowl, whisk muffin batter can be stored, covered, in the
100 Morning Treats
together the flour, baking powder, and baking refrigerator for up to 24 hours before baking.
soda. In a medium bowl or liquid measuring 7) Scoop a scant 1/3 cup of the batter into each
cup, whisk together the buttermilk and sour tulip liner. Sprinkle the streusel evenly over the
cream. 5) In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted top of each muffin. 8) Bake until the streu-
with a paddle, beat the butter on medium sel is golden brown and a toothpick inserted
speed until creamy, 1 minute. Add the granu- into the center of a muffin comes out with a
lated sugar and salt and beat until light and few crumbs, rotating the pan halfway through
fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Lower the speed to low baking, 25 to 30 minutes. Let the muffins cool in
and add the egg, scraping down the sides of the tin for about 5 minutes, then gently remove
the bowl as needed. Beat in the vanilla. Scrape them and transfer to a wire rack to cool for a
down the sides of the bowl again, and add few more minutes before serving. 9) Muffins
one-third of the flour mixture. Beat on low are best eaten the day they are made, but they
speed until just combined. Beat in the butter- can be stored in an airtight container in the
milk mixture and the remaining flour mixture in refrigerator for up to 2 days.
halves, alternating between the two and ending
with the flour mixture, mixing until just com- NOTE If your variety of rhubarb doesn’t cook
bined. 6) Pour the rhubarb and cream cheese down into a pretty shade of pink (many don’t),
mixtures into the bowl, and use a spatula to you can add a thin slice of red beet or a hand-
swirl the mixtures into the batter until just ful of raspberries to the pan with the rhubarb,
incorporated with two or three turns; there will or add a few drops of pink food coloring to the
still be streaks of fruit and cream cheese. The rhubarb mixture.
Muffin Liners
For many of the recipes in this book I
don’t use muffin liners, but there are a
few exceptions. I like to use tulip liners
(which stand taller in the pan) for muffins
with streusel, as it helps the streusel stay
on the batter, so it won’t spill all over the
pan and oven floor. If you’ve never used
a liner, you can bake a test muffin and
see how it works in your particular pan.
38
This recipe is based on the Grapefruit Cake Bars from my cookbook 100 Cookies (which, in turn,
is based on a Bundt cake from Yossy Arefi’s book Sweeter Off the Vine). I love the tart flavor
100 Morning Treats
of grapefruit, and Yossy’s method of adding the segmented pieces and juice to the batter is
genius. “To ease each pale pink segment out of its case so carefully without breaking a single
pearly cell” makes for delicious muffins. (Craig Arnold, “Meditation on a Grapefruit”)
Grapefruit Glazed
MA KE S 1 6
MUF F IN S Muffins
M UFFINS GLAZ E 1) FOR THE MUFFINS Position an oven rack
1 medium grapefruit 1½ cups [180 g] in the middle of the oven and preheat the
confectioners’ sugar
1½ cups [300 g] oven to 375°F [190°C]. Line two standard
granulated sugar Pinch of salt twelve-cup muffin tins or grease the pan
3 cups [426 g] all- 2 to 3 tablespoons (see Muffin Tins and Greasing the Pans,
purpose flour grapefruit juice page 24). Line a sheet pan with parchment
1 tablespoon baking 1 tablespoon grapefruit paper and set a wire rack on top. 2) Scrub
powder liqueur (optional) the grapefruit with warm, soapy water (to
½ teaspoon baking soda remove any excess wax), rinse, then dry
the fruit. Put the granulated sugar into a
1 cup [2 sticks or 227 g]
medium bowl and grate the grapefruit zest
unsalted butter, at room
temperature directly over the sugar, being careful not
to include any of the bitter white pith. With
1 teaspoon salt
your fingers, rub the zest into the sugar until
2 large eggs, at room
combined and fragrant. 3) Cut the top and
temperature
bottom off the grapefruit, then cut away
1 teaspoon pure vanilla any remaining peel and the white pith from
extract
the surface of the fruit. Over a bowl, care-
1 cup [240 g] buttermilk, fully cut the sections of the grapefruit away
at room temperature
from the membrane, letting the fruit and
juices fall into the bowl. Remove any seeds
that have fallen in, and break up the fruit
into small pieces, about ½ in [12 mm] wide.
39
MAK ES 14
MUF F INS
M UFFINS BROWN BUT T ER C R EAM 1) FOR THE MUFFINS Position an oven rack
2/3 cup [150 g] vegetable CH E ESE IC ING
in the middle of the oven and preheat the
or canola oil 12 tablespoons [1½ sticks
oven to 350°F [180°C]. Line two standard
or 170 g] unsalted butter,
¾ cup [150 g] granulated twelve-cup muffin tins (see Muffin Tins and
at room temperature
sugar
Greasing the Pans, page 24); these muffins
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ cup [50 g] brown bake best with liners. 2) In a large bowl,
sugar 4 oz [113 g] cream whisk together the oil, granulated and
cheese, at room
2 large eggs, at room brown sugars, eggs, triple sec (if using),
temperature
temperature cinnamon, ginger, baking powder, baking
2 cups [240 g]
1 tablespoon triple sec soda, salt, and cloves until completely
confectioners’ sugar
(optional) combined. Add the flour, stirring until just
2 teaspoons pure vanilla
1 teaspoon ground combined, then add the carrots, stirring
extract
cinnamon until incorporated. The muffin batter can
1 teaspoon ground be stored, covered, in the refrigerator for
ginger up to 24 hours before baking. 3) Divide
Whole-Wheat
Yogurt Muffins
M AKE S 1 2
M U F F INS
J.
K.
Kellermann, 255.
L.
Lacretelle, 264.
Lacroix, 237.
Lakanal, 216.
Lally-Tollendal, 100.
Laplanche, 231.
Lecarpentier, 216.
Linguet, 107.
Locke, 110
Loire, war on the, 205.
Louis XI, 5.
M.
Malmesbury, 277.
Manfredini, 42.
Maréchaussée, the, 8.
Maret, 108.
Masséna, 274.
Maury, 99.
Messidor, 228.
Milhaud, 274.
Moreau, 274.
Morelly, 36.
N.
Newton, 110.
Ney, 274.
Nivôse, 227.
P.
Paris, excitement and distress in, 26, 51, 58, 59, 60, 67, 68, 69,
133,
136, 171, 173;
influence of, on finance of Constituent Assembly, 89, 95;
clubs in, 105, 106, 144;
numbers of Jacobins in, 143;
government of, 145-147;
Prison Massacres in, 175-179;
agitation against Louis, 171, 173, 191;
the Girondists and, 193, 196-205;
under the Terror, 222-228, 242, 260;
Reaction in, 263, 264, 271, 272, 273, 279, 281.
Paris, Parlement of, 49, 50.
Payan, 256.
Pluviôse, 228.
Pombal, 42.
Prairial, 228.
See Insurrection.
Q.
Quesnai, 36.
R.
Reynaud, 217.
Richard, 274.
Santerre, 172.
Sémonville, 126.
Sergent, 178.
Soult, 274.
Suvórof, 277.
T.
Talon, 126.
Thermidor, 228;
insurrection of, 259, 260.
Thibeaudeau, 263.
Thugut, 276.
Tronchet, 103.
V.
Vacheron, 231.
Vendémiaire, 227;
insurrection of, 281.
Ventôse, 228.
Victor, 274.
Volney, 107.
W.
Westermann, 237.
Y.
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