Standing Pumpkin Patootie Pals

Notes:

1. Read pattern through before starting.

2. Sewing Terms: RST – right sides together RSO - right side(s) out
3. Use ¼” seams unless otherwise noted.
4. Welcome to my world of dolls and thank you for purchasing my pattern! You may sell the
finished standing pumpkin patooties, such plump little cuties, at craft shows, on your website and on
Etsy or eBay. On the internet, please give me credit for this design. Thank you again!

Happy Sewing and Happy Heart Hugs!

1. Sewing the Pumpkin Head - The way you place the head pattern onto the muslin is important to
get a nice round head. Stretch your muslin from top to bottom and then side to side – notice there is
more “give” or stretch to the muslin from top to bottom – notice the “give” direction on the head
pattern. Trace 2 head section patterns onto doubled muslin so the top of the head section points
toward the fold in the muslin fabric and the bottom points to the selvedge edge of the muslin (with the
“give” going from top to bottom in the head sections). Cut head sections out on traced lines (keep
both sections doubled). Mark a dot at the top of both doubled sections. Machine stitch from dot
down to bottom of head on each doubled section, along the right side with a ¼” seam (I like to draw
the seam lines in with a pencil to make stitching nice and easy). Open doubled sections up and with
RST, match and pin right sides of sections together – machine stitch down pinned side from top
(where the dot(s) would be) to bottom of head with a ¼” seam, removing pins as you do so (leaving
bottom open) – repeat process to stitch other open side – you have now finished stitching the round
head with 4 sections. Turn head RSO through bottom opening. Stuff the head lightly with polyfil to
round it out some - use your finger and wet the 4 seams with water (when the water dries, the head
will slightly shrink at seams and eliminate any wrinkling) - now firmly stuff the head with polyfil – be
sure to push polyfil all the way to closed end of head (top of head really) to make sure it rounds out
nicely. Tuck bottom little ends of head inward so no raw edge shows.
2. Sewing the Body – Trace the body pattern onto doubled muslin. Machine stitch around the entire
body on the traced line. Cut the body out ¼” away from the stitching. Draw the slit line on the body.
Cut the slit line going through one layer of muslin only. Turn the body RSO through the slit opening.
3. Stuffing Pumpkin Patootie’s Body - Stuff the bottom of the body firmly with polyfil - stuff the top
neck area of the body firmly with polyfil - stuff the middle of the body firmly with polyfil. Before you
close up the body, just check and make sure the neck/shoulder area is still firm – this is important so
the big pumpkin head will be held up nicely. Using doubled, off white (all-purpose) thread, whip
stitch the slit opening closed.
4. Attaching the Pumpkin Patootie’s Head to the Body - Use your fingers and dig a little hole up into
the head. Place the head down onto the neck of the body with a full head section facing front – push
head down (to make sure head is firmly against top of body) and then pin bottom of head to top of
body. Use doubled off white (all-purpose) thread and stitch the head to the body – remove pins – you
can stitch around the head a second time if necessary to make sure it is securely attached.
5. Arms - Trace 2 arm patterns onto doubled muslin. Machine stitch around arms on traced lines
leaving tops open. Cut arms out ¼” from stitching. Clip seam around thumbs. Turn arms RSO. Stuff
arms firmly with polyfil up to line indicated on pattern – leave the rest of the arms without stuffing.

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6. Legs - Trace 2 leg patterns onto doubled muslin. Machine stitch legs on traced lines leaving top of
legs open. Cut legs out ¼” away from stitching. Turn legs RSO. Stuff the “feet” part of the legs light
to medium firm with polyfil up to space line – insert a pin horizontally across leg where space is –
stuff rest of legs quite firm with polyfil up to top of legs. On one leg: take the pin out of the leg where
the space is between the polyfil – bend the “foot” up so it is perpendicular to the leg and pin foot to leg
at the bend so it stays in place. Using off white thread, stitch top of foot to leg to secure it in place –
remove pin. Repeat process on other leg to make the foot. Turn legs to look at the backs - right across
from where the front foot bends, cut little “plus shapes” into the muslin – this is where the wood
dowels will extend out the legs to go into the wood base. See diagrams on template page 2.
7. Inserting the Wood Dowels into the Legs – Cut 3 pieces of a 3/16” dowel to 8” long. Using a
manual or electric pencil sharpener, sharpen one 8” dowel to a point to make a “tool” – sharpen the
other 2 dowels to a dull point (these will go into the legs). On one leg: take the “tool” and with the
sharp point up, poke tool into “plus-shaped” cut in back of leg – work tool up through leg (twisting it
back and forth) working tool up through leg so it is fairly close to back seam of leg – pull tool back
out of leg – you have now made a “way” for the wood dowel with a dull point. Insert the 8” dowel
with the dull point (dull point up) through the leg so 1” of dowel extends below the foot. Repeat
process with other leg and dowel. Fold the top edge of the legs in ¼”. On one leg, take a running stitch
around the top edge (close to fold) – pull on thread to gather top of leg around the dowel (that is
sticking out the top) – tack thread to secure the gathering and then cut thread off. Repeat process
with other leg. Save “tool” for step 17.
8. Painting the Head, Body, Arms and Legs – For the girl pumpkin patootie, draw a line around the
top of the body just below the head– you don’t have to paint any of the body (just the neck because
the rest of her body will be covered up with the clothes). For the boy pumpkin patootie, draw a line
around the body 2/3 of the way down his body (he is not wearing a shirt so the top part of his body
will be exposed). For girl and boy patooties, use the sponge brush and paint the head and neck (girl)
of the body or head and top 2/3 of the body (boy) with spiced pumpkin paint, scrubbing paint onto the
head/neck/body and dabbing paint into the seams. Paint the arms spiced pumpkin leaving the top ½”
without paint (just the muslin showing) so it will be easy to stitch the arms onto the body. Paint the
legs spiced pumpkin leaving the top ½” without paint, just plain muslin. Let the paint dry. Lightly
sand the head, body, arms and legs to soften the fabric.
9. Distressing Pumpkin Patootie with Burnt Umber Paint - Squeeze burnt umber paint onto a paper
dish. Get a damp paper towel (I like to wet my hands and then dry them on a paper towel for the
perfect wetness) and wad it up into a ball. Dip the wadded-up towel into the paint and then move it on
the paper dish in a circular motion to distribute the paint on it evenly (if you have too much paint on
towel, dab it onto a dry paper towel – you want the paint on the damp paper towel almost dry). Rub
the towel/paint over the ends of the hands and arms and on the legs from the feet upwards for about
4”- 5” to get the feel/idea of how to stain/distress the spiced pumpkin paint with the burnt umber
paint by wiping it onto the arms and legs. Now, working on the head: rub burnt umber paint lightly
all over the head.
10. Painting Section Lines onto Pumpkin Patootie’s Head – You have already distressed pumpkin
patootie by wiping her with “dry” burnt umber paint using a paper towel. Now you are going to
“dry” brush burnt umber paint onto her head using a paint brush to make section lines. Squeeze a
little burnt umber paint onto a paper dish. Dip the brush into the paint and then wipe the brush (with
paint) onto a paper towel to remove some (not all) of the paint – brush paint onto a dry paper towel
again to make sure the paint is “dry” and gives you more of a feathered look rather than a solid look
to the paint. Dry brush burnt umber paint along the 4 sewn seams on the head to make seam/section

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lines darker and stand out – you can start working at the back of the head to get the “feel” of how to
dry brush with the paint brush - repeat process again (4 times) in the middle of each head section (so
you now have 8 section lines around the pumpkin head – one section line will be going down the
middle of the pumpkin patootie’s face).
11. Pumpkin Patootie’s Face – Cut the nose pattern out of the black fabric and pin it to pumpkin
patootie’s face (leave enough room underneath for the mouth). Pin the button eyes to pumpkin
patootie’s face. If you are happy with the position of the eyes and nose, go ahead (and using tacky
white glue), glue the nose to pumpkin patootie’s face – let glue dry. Use a pencil and draw eyebrows
over the button eyes, draw 3 eye lashes under the eyes and draw a mouth line (choose the one you like
by viewing the face diagrams). Thread a single strand of black crochet thread in 3” doll needle and
knot end. Poke the needle into the bottom of the head (into one side of neck) and come out at one end
of the mouth – stitch mouth – exit needle up to one button eye and stitch button onto face (removing
pin) – exit needle over to other button eye and stitch that button onto face (removing pin) – exit needle
down and back out at neck, then tack and cut thread. Double thread black (all-purpose) thread into
the 3” doll needle and knot the end. Poke the needle into the bottom of the head (into one side of neck
again) and come out at one eyelash – stitch that eyelash and other 2 next to it – exit needle up to
eyebrow (over button eye) and stitch the eyebrow – exit needle over to other eyebrow and stitch that
eyebrow – exit needle down to one eyelash under the button eye – stitch that eyelash and the other 2
remaining lashes – exit needle back out at neck and then tack and cut thread. Note: at neck, if black
thread tack(s) show, paint over it (them) with the spiced pumpkin paint. Use the dark umber pencil
and shade (hold pencil point on an angle against the face) around the button eyes, under the
eyebrows, around the nose and under the mouth – use a Q-tip and blend shading out onto/into face.
12. Preparing the Wood Base - Use 4” round wood plaques (1” thick) for wood bases for the patootie
pals to stand on. Place the base paper pattern over your wood base and mark the drill holes. Make a
dot in the middle of each hole – this will mark where to make a pilot hole. Hammer the nail into one
pilot hole (not too deep) – wiggle nail around to make hole a little bigger and then pull nail out –
repeat to make a pilot hole in other marked drill hole. The pilot holes will be where you insert the
drill bit when you are ready to drill – it will prevent the bit from skipping across the wood. Place a
scrap piece of wood (or 3 old stacked magazines) under the wood base – you don’t want to damage the
work area when you drill the holes in the wood. Securely insert drill bit into drill. Hold drill
perpendicular to wood base with drill bit in pilot hole – drill hole almost all the way through wood
base (or all the way if you want, either is OK) – drill other hole into wood base. Take a damp paper
towel and wipe burnt umber paint all over wood base to stain it brown. Let paint on wood base dry.
13. Attaching the Legs to the Wood Base - Take the wood base and put white glue in drilled holes (if
holes go all the way through the wood base, tape the holes at the bottom of the base to prevent glue
from seeping out). Take the legs and insert the dowel extensions (at the bottom of the feet) down into
holes so feet are flat against the top of the wood base – view legs from all sides to make sure they are
upright (perpendicular to the base). Put legs on base aside for now and let glue dry. You will have to
make the pantaloons for the girl patootie or the pants for the boy patootie and put them onto the legs
before you attach the body to the legs.
14. Attaching the Arms to the Body – Pin the arms to the top sides of the body. Using off white
crochet thread, stitch the arms to the top sides of the body (again, this should be easy as you are
stitching through muslin fabric only) – remove pins. For the boy patootie, use some watered down
spiced pumpkin paint and paint over the top of the arms so no plain muslin shows.
15. Pantaloons or Pants – For the girl patootie, cut the pantaloons out of doubled black fabric that is
RST, or for the boy, cut the pants out of doubled orange plaid fabric that is RST. Machine stitch both

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sides of pantaloons/pants with a ¼” seam – machine stitch around inner leg opening with a ¼” seam –
cut seam at both top sides of inner leg. Turn pantaloons/pants RSO and finger press them flat.
16. Putting the Pantaloons/Pants onto the Legs - Slip the pantaloons/pants over/onto the pumpkin
patootie’s legs – fold the pantaloons/pants down so you can see the tops of the legs.
17. Attaching the Body to the Legs – You are going to cut 2 little slits into the bottom sides of the body
for the leg dowels. Use a manicure scissors and right behind the bottom body seam, cut 2 little slits
(see diagram). Use the 8” tool that you made in step 7 and insert it up into the slits, up into the
body/polyfil on both sides, to make a “way” for the leg dowels. Place body over leg dowels, aligning
the dowels with the cut slits in the bottom of the body – push body down onto leg dowels so body rests
on top of legs – view body from all sides to see if it is nicely upright – if not, pull body off leg dowels,
reposition body and then push it back down again onto tops of legs. If all looks good, slight raise body
and squeeze hot glue onto tops of legs – push body back down onto legs, into glue. Pull the
pantaloons/pants that are down on the feet, up and around the waist of the pumpkin patootie. For the
girl, use black thread and stitch waist of pantaloons to waist of pumpkin body. For the boy, you will
be making pants straps to hold up the pants. Pants straps: cut 2 pieces of black fabric 1 ¼” x 6 ½”.
Fold them RST matching 6 ½” sides and stitch down open 6 ½” sides with a 1/8” seam. Turn straps
RSO. Pin straps from front waist of pants (over shoulders) to back waist of pants, crisscrossing them
in the back to hide the stitched slit (put a little glue on shoulders and at back crisscross so straps stay
in place. Use off white crochet thread and stitch the ends of the straps to the pants (front and back)
with big “X” stitches – remove pins. The boy patootie is almost done but put him aside for now.
18. Making a Dress for the Girl Pumpkin Patootie- The bodice: Cut or tear a piece of black fabric
5 ½” x 8”. Fold the fabric in half RST, matching the 8” sides. Pin the bodice pattern onto the folded
fabric with the shoulders of the bodice at the fold in the fabric – look at the pattern and mark the
neck - cut the fold between the neck marks – cut the 2 little areas under the sleeves out so the fabric
now matches the bodice pattern – remove pins/pattern. Machine stitch under each sleeve and down
(short) sides of bodice - clip seams at underarms – turn bodice RSO and finger press bodice flat. Fold
the bodice in half matching ends of sleeves to make a vertical crease in the middle of the bodice – cut
one layer of fabric only along the crease to open up the bodice - the opening will be to the back of the
dress. The skirt: Tear a 5” x 22” strip of orange pumpkin fabric. Mark the top middle of the fabric
with a pin. Take a basting stitch across the top of the 22” side with the pin (1/4” down from top edge),
being careful of pin while stitching and leaving 6” thread tails at each end of stitching. On one side of
skirt, pull on 6” thread tail to gather top of skirt to 5” (up to the pin). Repeat on other side of skirt (to
pin) – now the top of the skirt is evenly gathered to 10” – remove middle pin. Take the bodice and
open it up so the right side is up on your work area (and bodice is fairly flat) – pin sleeves up so they
are out of the way (away from the bottom of the bodice where you will sew the skirt on). Pin the
gathered top side of the skirt to the bottom of the bodice – (the right side of bodice is up and so is the
right side of the skirt) – the top edge of the gathered skirt will go across the bodice and is positioned
right under the arms (about 5/8” up from the bottom edge of the bodice). Machine stitch the skirt to
the bodice by stitching right over/on the gathering stitching already there, removing the pins before
you get to them. Cut a 10” piece of off white rick rack and stitch it onto the top of the skirt right over
the 2 rows of stitching already there – remove the pins holding the sleeves of the dress up. Finishing
the neck of the dress: Fold the top edge (the neck) of the dress in (back) ¼” and using black thread,
take a running stitch across top of dress (1/8” down from folded edge) to secure fold in place – pull on
thread to gather top of dress to 5 ¼”, then tack thread to secure gathering and cut off – distribute
gathers evenly across the dress top.

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19. Putting the Dress on the Girl Pumpkin Patootie – Slip the girl pumpkin patootie’s arms into the
sleeves of the dress (opening to back) – overlap back sides of dress and using white glue, secure one side
over the other to close off the back of the dress – let glue dry. The dress bodice (on the inside of the dress)
will cover the top of the pantaloons and none of the muslin body will show – you can stitch the bodice
bottom to the pantaloons or use a little white glue to keep them together.
20. Pumpkin Patootie’s Stem and Curly Tendrils – The stem and tendrils: Take the natural stick and
wrap the middle of the green cloth covered wire around the stick several times so it is secure on the stick
(about 3” down from top of stick). Curl the long wire ends on the handle of a thin paint brush – use the
needle nose pliers and secure a rusty bell on the end of each curled wire. Use the manicure scissors and
cut a little slit in the top of the pumpkin patootie’s head in front of the seam intersection – dip the
(bottom end) of the stick into white glue and insert it down into slit (2” down) into pumpkin patootie’s
head.
21. The Girl Pumpkin Patootie’s Head Bow - Cut a piece of orange plaid fabric 3 ½” x 4”. Fold the fabric
RST matching the 3 ½” sides (it is now doubled and measures 2” x 3 ½”). Machine stitch down one 2”
side with a ¼” seam, then stitch across the bottom almost to mid-point, then leave a 1” open space in the
middle – continue to stitch across the bottom and then up the other 2” side. Turn the bow RSO through
the bottom opening – fold the open edges in – tear a ½” x 6” strip of orange plaid fabric – gather the
middle of the bow and tightly tie the strip of orange plaid fabric around the middle of the bow to secure
the gathering – tie a knot in the strip and cut strip ends off (this is the back of the bow). Hot glue the bow
to the top of the girl patootie’s head right in front of the stem/tendrils/bells. Arrange curled wire/bells so
they nicely show off on each side of the bow.
22. Making Pumpkin Patootie a Scarf Tie – Cut a thin 15” strip of coffee stained cheese cloth and tie it
around pumpkin patootie’s neck. Attaching a candy corn to the knot on the scarf tie: in Michael’s Arts
and Crafts store, in the scrapbooking aisle, I found a package of 3-dimensional candy corns - there were 9
in the Recollection’s package. They were the perfect size – about 7/8” long but they were glittered. You
may like the bright glitter but I toned down their appearance by painting over the orange glitter section
of the candy corn with the spiced pumpkin paint and gold paint over the yellow glittered section. They
have adhesive on the back so all you have to do is stick them onto the knot of the tie but I think you better
hot glue them to the tie.
23. Distressing the Clothes with Paint – This step is optional: If you want to make your pumpkin
patooties more prim in appearance, you can “dirty-up” the clothes (they just might have gotten a little
dirty in that pumpkin patch field!). Using burnt umber paint and the wiping method, distress the clothes
(and bow) the same way you distressed the pumpkin patootie’s body. If you want to lightly distress the
pumpkin patooties’ clothes, just dust them with cinnamon.

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