The ‘Richmond’ Romper

This crochet pattern and the photographs contained in this document are the property of Babes in the
Wool Design. The pattern is for personal use only. No unauthorised reproduction in whole or in part, or
distribution of this pattern or content is allowed. I am happy for you to sell the finished product, please
credit @Babesinthewool for the pattern.
Copyright © 2021 Babes in the Wool Design
 Sizes Hip Length Yarn amount
0-3 months 49cm 32cm 150g / 443 metres
3-6 months 51cm 36cm 190g / 560 metres
6-12 months 53cm 40cm 200g/ 590 metres
12-18 months 55cm 44cm 210g/ 620 metres
18-24 months 57cm 46cm 230g/ 680 metres
24-36 months 59cm 49cm 260g/ 770 metres

Sizes are based on using DK weight yarn (3 weight), 295 mts or 322 yrds per 100g. My samples were made
using Stylecraft Special DK
Measurements above are for the finished romper
You will need a 4.00 mm and 3.00 mm hook, buttons, yarn needle, scissors and stitch markers

Gauge 4 x 4 inches = 18 sts and 22 rows in SC

Thank you for purchasing my pattern for this pretty frill romper, I hope you enjoy making it and if you have any questions
please send me a message through Etsy or an email, I will be more than happy to answer them for you!

babesinthewoolcrochet@gmail.com

This pattern is written using US crochet terms, if you wish to use UK terms then please see the abbreviations information
below

Abbreviations
Sl St – Slip stitch Ch – Chain HDC – Half double crochet (UK Half treble)

St(s) – Stitch (es) SC – Single Crochet (UK Double Crochet) Sk – Skip DC – Double Crochet (UK Treble)

RS – Right side WS – Wrong side BL – Back loops FL – Front Loops

Let’s get started…… Using the 4mm hook

Chain 85 89 93 97 101 105

Round 1 - SC into the 2nd chain from hook. SC into each chain. Join with a slip stitch to the first SC to create a ring.
Make sure you have no twists in your ring. Ch 1 and turn. 84 88 92 96 100 104 sts

Note: at the end of each row or round we will Ch1, this never counts as a stitch.

Round 2 – (RS) SC into the BL (back loops) of each stitch. Join with a Sl St to the first SC. Ch1 and turn. 84 88 92 96
100 104 sts

Round 3 – SC into each stitch. Join with a Sl St to the first SC. Ch1 and turn. 84 88 92 96 100 104 sts

Repeat row 3 until you have completed 9 9 9 11 11 11 rounds. Ch 1 and turn.

Round 10 10 10 12 12 12 – (RS) SC into the BL (back loops) of each stitch. Join with a Sl St to the first SC. Ch1 and
turn. 84 88 92 96 100 104 sts

Repeat row 3 until you have completed a total of 17 19 21 23 25 27 rounds. Ch 1 and turn.
We are now going to start our back panel…..

Row 1 – (RS) SC into the first 45 47 49 51 53 55 stitches. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 2 – (WS) SC into the first St. Skip a stitch. SC into the next 41 43 45 47 49 51 stitches. Skip a stitch. SC into the
last St. Ch 1 and turn. 43 45 47 49 51 53 stitches.

Row 3 – SC into the first St. Skip a stitch. SC into each stitch until you have 2 sts remaining. Skip a stitch. SC into the
last St. Ch 1 and turn. 41 43 45 47 49 51 stitches.

Repeat row 3 (each time reducing your stitches by 2) until you have completed 19 19 20 20 21 22 rows. You will have
9 11 11 13 13 13 stitches. Follow instructions for each size below.

0-3 months – Fasten off.

3-6 months – Row 20 - Ch 1 and turn, SC into each stitch. 11sts. Fasten off.

6-12 months – Row 21 - Ch1 and turn, SC into each stitch. 11sts. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 22 - SC into each stitch. 11 sts. Fasten off.

12-18 months – Row 21 - Ch1 and turn, SC into each stitch. 13 sts Ch 1 and turn
Row 22 and 23 - SC into each stitch. 13 sts. At the end of row 23, fasten off.

18-24 months - Row 22 - Ch1 and turn, SC into each stitch. 13 sts
Row 23, 24 and 25 - SC into each stitch. 13 sts. At the end of row 25, fasten off.

24 – 36 months - Row 23 - Ch1 and turn, SC into each stitch. 13 sts

Row 24, 25 and 26 - SC into each stitch. 13 sts. At the end of row 26, fasten off.

We are now going to start our front panel…..

Lay your work flat and place a stitch marker into the right and left side of the front panel leaving a stitch between
the back panel and your marker. See Photo A. Including the marked stitches you will have 37 39 41 43 45 47 sts
across the front to work into. Working from the right side, attach yarn and Ch 1.

Row 1 – (RS) SC into this stitch and the next 36 38 40 42 44 46 stitches. Ch 1 and turn. 37 39 41 43 45 47 sts.

Row 2 – SC into the first St. Skip a stitch. SC into each stitch until you have 2 sts remaining. Skip a stitch. SC into the
last St. Ch 1 and turn. 35 37 39 41 43 45 sts.

Repeat row 2 (each time reducing your stitches by 2) until you have completed 15 15 16 16 17 18 rows. You will have
9 11 11 13 13 13 stitches. Follow instructions for each size below.

0-3 months – Do not fasten off, start to work on the edging rows. See below.

3-6 months – Do not fasten off, start to work on the edging rows. See below.

6-12 months – Row 17 - SC into each stitch. 11 sts. Do not fasten off, start to work on the edging rows. See below.

12-18 months – Row 17 - SC into each stitch. 13 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 18 - SC into each stitch. 13 sts. Do not fasten off, start to work on the edging rows. See below.

18-24 months - Row 18 - SC into each stitch. 13 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 19 - SC into each stitch. 13 sts. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 20 - SC into each stitch. 13 sts. Do not fasten off, start to work on the edging rows. See below.

24 -36 months - Row 19 - SC into each stitch. 13 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 20 - SC into each stitch. 13 sts. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 21 - SC into each stitch. 13 sts. Do not fasten off, start to work on the edging rows. See below.
We are now going to complete the edging rows around the bottom of the romper……

Round 1 – Size 12-18 months and 18-24 months turn your work (so you are working on the RS). All other sizes, stay
on the RS. Work Ch 1 and then work 3xHDC (3 HDC all into the same stitch) into the first stitch and then continue to
work HDC evenly all along the edges of the front and back. I work a HDC for each row along the sides, the ends of the
rows are quite easy to see. Photo B When you arrive at the corners work 3xHDC into a stitch followed by another
3xHDC into the next stitch. Photo C This will give you a total of 6 HDC’s all worked into each corner which may seem
like a lot of stitches, but we are not going to increase on the following rounds. Work evenly all around the edge
ending with 3xHDC all into the last stitch. Join with a slip stitch to the first HDC. Ch 1 and turn.

Round 2 – (WS) Work a HDC into each stitch all around the edge until the end of the round. Join with a Sl St to the
first HDC. Ch 1 and turn.

Round 3 – (RS) With stitch markers, mark the stitches on the bottom of the front panel where you would like to
place the buttonholes. Photo D I recommend 2 buttons for sizes up to 12 months and 3 buttons for the larger sizes.
Work one HDC into each stitch all around the edge. When you arrive at your marked stitches, Ch1 and skip these
stitches. Join with a Sl St to the first HDC. Ch 1 and turn.

Round 4 – Work a HDC into each stitch along the bottom edge of the front flap until you reach the corner and then
work FPHDC and then BPHDC alternately Photo E until you reach the corner of the back flap. Work a HDC into the
stitches until you reach the next corner and then work FPHDC and then BPHDC alternately until the end of the
round. Join with a Sl St to the first HDC. Fasten off.

We are now going to complete the waist band of the romper……. (This is the only section we use the 3mm hook)

Row 1 – Using the 3 mm hook, with the RS and the back of the romper facing you, lay your work flat. Find the 2
central stitches across the top row and attach markers into these stitches. Photo F. Starting in the left-hand side
stitch, attach yarn, (3mm hook) Ch 1 and HDC into the same stitch. HDC into each stitch until you reach the second
marker. HDC into this stitch, Ch4 (creating a button loop) and turn. 84 88 92 96 100 104 sts

Row 2 - Work a HDC into the first stitch. Place your marker into the top of this first stitch. Work a HDC into each
stitch until the end of the round. Ch 1 and turn. 84 88 92 96 100 104 sts

Row 3 – Work a HDC into each stitch until the end of the round. Work your last stitch into the marked stitch, Ch4
(creating a button loop) and turn. 84 88 92 96 100 104 sts

Row 4 – Repeat Row 2

Row 5 - Work a HDC into each stitch until the end of the round. Work your last stitch into the marked stitch. For sizes
0-3 months, 3-6 months and 6-12 months fasten off.

For all larger sizes, Ch4 (creating a button loop) and turn. 96 100 104 sts

Row 6 – Larger sizes only - Repeat Row 2

Row 7 – Larger sizes only - Work a HDC into each stitch until the end of the round. Work your last stitch into the
marked stitch. Fasten off.

We are now going to complete the front bib of the romper…

Lay the romper flat with the front facing. Mark out 27 29 31 33 35 37 sts across the top of the romper ensuring you
have these central. Photo G

Row 1 – Using the 4mm hook and working from the WS or inside of the romper, attach yarn to the stitch marked on
the right. Ch1 and HDC into this stitch. Work a HDC into the next 4 sts. Work a SC into the next stitch and then a DC
into the next stitch. Continue to work a SC followed by a DC until you have 6 sts remaining. Work a SC into the first
stitch and a HDC into the last 5 sts. Ch 1 and turn. 27 29 31 33 35 37 sts When working the rows on the bib it helps to
keep the first and last stitch of the rows marked.
Row 2 – (RS) HDC into the first 4 sts. Work a FPDC around the 5 th stitch. Work a HDC into each stitch until you have 5
sts remaining. Work a FPDC around the first stitch. Work a HDC into each of the last 4 sts. Ch1 a nd turn. 27 29 31 33
35 37 sts

Row 3 – HDC into the first 4sts. Work a BPDC around the 5 th stitch. Work a SC into the next stitch and then a DC into
the next stitch. Continue to work a SC followed by a DC until you have 6 sts remaining. Work a SC into the first stitch
and then a BPDC around the next stitch. Work a HDC into each of the last 4 sts. Ch1 and turn. 27 29 31 33 35 37 sts

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have completed a total of 12 12 14 14 16 16 rows. Do not fasten off.

We are now going to create our straps……….

At the end of your last row, Ch 1 and turn. HDC into the first 5 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

HDC in each of the 5 sts, Ch1 and turn. Continue to complete rows of HDC until you have the desired strap length.
The straps need to sit above the bib by approx. 3 3 4 4 5 5 cms and they need to be long enough at the back so that
they can be sewn to the height of the waistband. Photo H

When you have your strap completed, fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing to the back.

Now for the second strap…..

With the WS facing you, count in 5sts from the left side, and attach yarn. Ch 1 and repeat process as we did for the
1st strap. Ensure you complete the same number of rows on this strap. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing to the
back. Do not sew down the straps until later.

Now we will add the frills to the body of the romper…

The frills are worked into the back loops of the rows we completed by working into the front loops only. I
recommend working the first frill into the row of loops nearest the bottom of the romper. With the bib facing away
from you attach yarn into any of the loops on the back of the romper. Photo I

Round 1 - Ch1 and work a SC into the same loop. Continue to work a SC into each loop all the way around and then
join with a Sl St to the first SC. Ch 1 and turn. 84 88 92 96 100 104 sts

Round 2 – (RS) Work 2xHDC into each stitch and then join with a Sl St to the first HDC. Ch 1 and turn. 168 176 184
192 200 208 sts

Round 3 – Work a DC into the first stitch and then a SC into the second stitch. Continue to work DC and then SC
alternately until the end of the round. Join with a Sl St to the first DC. Ch1 and turn.

Round 4 – (RS) Work a DC into each stitch, join with a Sl St to the first DC. Ch 1 and turn.

Round 5 – Work a DC into the first stitch and then a SC into the second stitch. Continue to work DC and then SC
alternately until the end of the round. Join with a Sl St to the first DC. Ch1 and turn.

Repeat round 4 and 5 another 2 2 2 3 3 3 times. Fasten off.

Now repeat this for the second frill which is worked into the row of loops just below the waistband.
 Photo A Photo B Photo C

Photo D Photo E Photo F

Photo G Photo H Photo I

Now we will add the frills to the straps …

First of all we need to pin the straps in place and place some markers which will help us to place the frills correctly.

Please follow the photo sequence below.

Pin straps near to the back Place a marker into the side Turn over the romper and
opening, leaving enough of the 4th row above the place marker in the side of
rows to secure the strap to waistband. the 4th row above the
the inside of waistband. waistband.

Place a marker into the side
of the row just below the
top of the bib (pink markers
in photo)
Turn the romper over and
place markers into the same
place on the back side. You
will now have 4 markers in
each strap.
Strap A - Turn the romper,
front facing you. Attach yarn
into the side of the first row
above waistband. We will be
working on the WS.

Strap A – (left hand side, front of romper facing you)

Row 1 - Leaving a long tail for sewing later, attach yarn, Ch1 and SC into the same stitch. Work a SC into the side of
each row until you reach the last marker (blue markers on photos). When working into your marked stitches remove
your marker and replace it when you have completed the stitch. We will need the markers on the next row. Work
the last SC into the last marked stitch. (no need to replace this last marker) Ch 1 and turn.

Row 2 – The stitches on this row are all worked into the FL (Front Loop Only) of each stitch, work 2xHDC into each
stitch until you reach the first marker. Remove marker, no need to replace it and work 3xHDC into this stitch and
each stitch until you reach the next marker. Remove marker, no need to replace it and work 3xHDC into this stitch.
Now work 2xHDC into each stitch until you reach your last marker. Remove marker, no need to replace it and work
2xHDC into this last stitch. Ch 1 and turn.
 Progress after row 1 Progress after row 2

Row 3 – Work a DC into the first stitch followed by a SC into the next stitch. Continue to work a DC and then a SC
alternately along the row. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 4 – Work a SC into the first 3 sts. Work a HDC into each of the next 3 sts. Work a DC into each stitch until you
have 6sts remaining. Work a HDC into the first 3 sts and then work a SC into the last 3 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 5 - Work a SC into the first stitch followed by a DC into the next stitch. Continue to work a SC and then a DC
alternately along the row. Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching strap.

Now we will complete the second frill and then attach……

To complete the second frill the yarn is attached into the last marked stitch (Blue marker shown in Photo 1 below)

Row 1 - Working from the wrong side, attach yarn, leave a long tail for later, Ch1 and work a SC into this stitch. Work
a SC into the side of each row replacing your markers as you work into these rows. When you reach the last marker
work a SC, replace the marker and continue to work a SC into the side of each row until you reac h the last row above
the waistband on the front of the romper. Turn your work but do not Ch1. Work a Sl St into each stitch until you
reach the first marker. Work 2xHDC (working into the FL only) into this stitch. No need to replace this marker.

You can now follow the instructions for rows 2 to 5 in the same way as you worked the first strap. When you have
completed these rows we will attach the frills and straps to the back of the romper. See photos below.

Photo 1 – Attaching yarn to Count 3 rows from end of Secure the frill end onto the
complete the second frill frill and using a yarn needle strap by working into the
attach end of frill to the side side of the 3 rows. When
of this row secure, Fasten off.
 When secure it should look
like this. Repeat this for the
remaining ends. The frills to
the front should be attached
just above the waistband
Pin the straps into place and Secure the strap securely to
then turn the romper inside the waistband using the tail
out to secure. end.

You can now weave in all your ends (if you haven’t already) and sew on your buttons…

You are finished!! I hope you enjoyed making this romper

Thank you again for purchasing my pattern and I would love to know your thoughts, if you leave me a review on Etsy
you will automatically be entered into my giveaways, (reviews also help me to grow my shop and are much
appreciated). You can also follow me on Instagram @Babesinthewool where you will see my designs in progress. If
you have an Instagram account then please post a picture of your finished item and tag me, I love seeing them!