How to Build a Cheap Storage Shed.

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How to Build a Cheap

Storage Shed
Printable plans and a materials list let you build
our dollar-savvy storage shed and get great
results.
Modular construction and inexpensive materials
make this shed easy to build and easy to afford. We'll
show you how to build this shed and provide you with
the plans and materials list you need to get started.
Don't be intimidated by the size of this project. We
use simple construction methods to make the
building process as easy as possible.
By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine
TIME
Multi-day

COMPLEXITY
Moderate

COST
Over $500
Save up to $3,000 on this shed

Money saving options

This shed is designed to be budget friendly.

We designed this shed with money saving in mind.

Even the dimensions are designed to make the most
efficient use of lumber. Here are some of the ways
you'll save with our shed design.
OSB siding
Siding panels made from oriented strand board cost
far less than solid wood or plywood panels, and
come preprimed, saving you money and labor. Since
the panels are also structural, you don't need an
additional layer of sheathing under the siding. You'll
save about $500 over the cost of cedar plywood
siding.
Wood foundation
Hiring a concrete contractor to pour a slab for this
shed could cost you $1,000, but the materials for this
wood foundation will set you back only about $250.
Plus, a wood foundation is easy to build even on
sites that slope or have difficult access.
Cost-cutting custom door
Materials for this door cost about $140. A similar
style prehung exterior door can easily cost more than
$1,000. Of course, this door isn't as weather-tight as
a prehung door, and it wouldn't work on your house,
but it's perfect for a shed. You get the look of an
expensive custom wood door without the cost.
Easy arch-top windows
If you've ever priced arch-top windows, you know
how expensive they can be. Even windows that don't
operate are likely to cost $400 apiece. But you can
simulate the look of an expensive window without
spending a ton of money. These windows cost about
$60 each and are easy to build with materials you'll
find at any home center or lumberyard.
Composite trim
Composite trim saves you money and time right
away. It's less expensive than solid wood (you'll save
up to $160), it doesn't have knots or other defects to
work around, and it comes preprimed and ready for
paint. And it'll save you time and money in the long
run since it holds paint better and longer than even
the best-quality exterior wood.

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Getting started
Arch-top windows and a custom door give this shed
a high-quality look that belies its low cost and simple
construction. The panelized construction technique
means you could build the parts in your garage on a
rainy weekend and then haul them to the site for
assembly. Modest finishes like OSB siding and
composite trim and fiberglass shingles help keep the
materials cost low. And you'll save hundreds of
dollars by providing your own labor to build the door
and windows. The modular construction and wood
platform foundation mean you can construct this
shed almost anywhere, even on remote or sloping
sites. In this article, we'll show you the basics of how
to build the shed and install the windows and doors.
We found all the materials to build this shed at our
local home center. Most of the construction is
straightforward and requires only standard carpentry
tools and a circular saw. To build the windows and
door, you'll also need a table saw, power miter saw
and router. We used a Kreg pocket hole jig and
pocket hole screws to assemble the door and
windows. With a helper or two, you could have the
platform and shell built in two or three days. Then
expect to spend four or five more days completing
the siding, trim, doors, windows and roofing.
A few weeks before you start, check with your local
building department to see whether a permit is
required and to find out how close to the lot lines you
can build. Then call 811 for instructions on how to
locate buried utility lines. The first step is to set a pair
of treated 6x6s on gravel beds as a foundation for
the shed platform.
When you've decided on a shed location, dig two
trenches 16 in. wide, 12 in. deep and 13 ft. long.
Center the trenches 66 in. apart. Fill the trenches
with a 3-in. layer of gravel and compact it with a hand
tamper. Repeat this process until the trench is full.
Use a level and long board to level the top layer of
gravel. If the ground is flat, also make sure the gravel
beds in the two trenches are level with each other.
Cut the treated 6x6s to 12 ft. and set them on the
gravel so they're parallel and the outside edges are 6
ft. apart. On sloped ground, you'll have to raise the
6x6 on the low side until it's level with the adjacent
6x6. Do this by stacking treated 2x6s, 4x6s or 6x6s
on top of the treated 6x6 to reach the right height.
Use a 4-ft. or longer level to make sure the 6x6s are
level and level with each other. Finally, square the
6x6s by adjusting the position of one 6x6. Slide the
6x6 back and forth, not sideways, until the diagonal
measurements from opposite corners are equal.
Build the platform with treated 2x6s, 24 in. on center,
and cover it with treated 3/4-in. plywood (Figure B).

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Figures A: Shed and B: Floor Framing Plan

These illustrations show how the shed and the
platform are constructed. For larger images that
you can print, see Additional Information at the
end of this article.
Note: Figures A and B (along with Figures C
through G) can be downloaded and printed from
Additional Information below.

The shed and floor framing plans.

Build the walls

Photo 1: Assemble the end walls

Build the end walls on the platform, using chalk
lines as a guide. Start by nailing together the
perimeter and adding the center stud. Then
measure from the center stud to mark for the
remaining studs.

You can build the walls on any flat surface, but the
shed platform is ideal. Snap chalk lines on the
plywood deck, 3-1/2 in. from the edges of the
platform, to indicate the inside edge of the walls.
Measure to make sure the lines are parallel and 89
in. apart. Then chalk a line down the center (Photo
1). You'll use this line to make sure the angled top
plates meet in the center.
Use dimensions from Figure C (in Additional
Information below) to snap lines for the peak. Then
cut 2x4s to fit inside the lines and toe-screw them to
the plywood to hold them in place while you fill in the
center studs (Photo 1) and nail on the siding (Photo
2). Toe-screw from the outside so the screws will be
accessible after the siding is installed.
When you nail on the siding, make sure it overhangs
the framing on each side by 3-1/2 in. and that you've
trimmed off the top corner to follow the slope of the
angled top plate (Photo 2). Attach the siding with 2-
in. galvanized or stainless steel ring-shank siding
nails placed 8 in. apart along studs and 6 in. apart
along the edges of the sheets. You'll have to nail
blocking between the studs to support the top edge
of the siding and the Z-flashing.
Complete the siding, then remove the toe-screws
and move the wall aside to make room for
constructing the opposite wall. Use the same chalk
line template and process to build the opposite end
wall. Figure C (in Additional Information below)
shows framing details for the front wall. Mark the
curves on the 2x10 header pieces using the trammel
setup shown in Photo 12 and Figure G (in Additional
Information below). Cut them with a jigsaw. When
you're done building the front and back walls, set
them aside so you can use the platform to build the
roof sections.

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Build the roof in two pieces

 Photo 4: Install the soffits
Add the soffit to the roof frame while it's on the
platform. That will save you the hassle of upside-
down nailing in a confined spot.

It's unconventional, but building the roof upside down

on the platform has advantages. First, you avoid a lot
of ladder work. And second, you can nail the soffit
material to the overhangs easily without having to
work overhead and in cramped spaces. You do have
to take a little extra care to make sure the framing is
square and the perimeter 2x4s are perfectly straight
before nailing on the soffit, though. Start by cutting
out the rafters using the pattern in Figure D (in
Additional Information below) as a guide.
Omit the bird's-mouth from four rafters and use these
on the ends. Cut the 2x4s for the ridge and subfascia
to length and mark the rafter positions on them. Line
up the rafters with the marks and nail through the
ridge and subfascia with 16d nails to secure them.
When the roof frame is complete, line up the
subfascia with the chalk line on the platform and tack
it in three or four places with toe screws to hold the
frame straight while you install the soffit.
Also square the frame by making sure diagonal
measurements from opposite corners are equal.
Then tack one corner to hold it square. Finally, nail
the soffit to the roof frame with 6d galvanized box
nails. We used 12-in.-wide fiber cement siding for
soffit material. Mount an inexpensive carbide blade
on your circular saw to cut the fiber cement. Set the
roof panel aside and build the other half of the roof
using the same techniques.

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Stand the walls

Photo 5: Nail the walls in place

Stand the walls, starting with the back wall. Then
add the sides and finally the front. Nail each wall
to the platform as you go and lock the corners
together by nailing through the overhanging siding
into studs.

Start by moving one of the end panels into place and

resting the bottom plate of the wall on the platform.
Tip the wall up and secure it with a temporary angled
2x4 brace. Line up the bottom plate with the chalk
line and drive a few 3-in. screws or 16d nails through
the plate to hold the bottom of the wall in position.
Don't worry about getting the wall plumb yet. It'll be
automatic when you stand the back wall and connect
the corners.
Stand the back wall. Then align the corner of the side
and back walls and nail them together. With a helper
on the outside of the shed to push if necessary, line
up the inside edge of the bottom plate with the chalk
line and nail it to the platform. Continue around the
building, standing the opposite end wall and finally
the front wall. Nail the corners together, making sure
that the top plates of adjoining walls are flush with
each other.

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Hoist the roof panels into position

Photo 6: Lift the roof into place

 Gather some helpers to help lift the roof sections
into place. Don't forget to toenail every rafter to
the wall before you start the roof sheathing.

The roof panels are heavy and a bit awkward, so

round up three strong helpers for this part of the job.
Move the panels into position and lean them against
the front and back walls. Then set up ladders inside
the building for two helpers and push one of the
panels up to them. Slide the panel up the roof until
the bird's-mouths drop over the top plate of the wall.
Make sure the 2x4 ridge is perfectly aligned with the
peak of the wall. Then secure the roof panel with a
pair of toenails through each bird's-mouth into the top
plate of the wall. Repeat the process on the opposite
side (Photo 6). Complete the roof framing by nailing
the 2x4 ridges together and adding two 2x4 collar
ties, 4 ft. apart (Figure A).

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Build the door

Photo 10: Route the door hinges

Eliminate measuring mistakes by clamping the
door and trim together before routing for the
hinges. Make sure the trim piece extends 1/8 in.
above the top of the door before you clamp it.

Ordering a prehung wood door like this from the

lumberyard could cost as much as $1,000, but you
can build one suitable for a shed at a fraction of the
cost. We purchased clear pine at a home center and
spent $120 for the boards. Photos 8 – 10 show how
to build the door and mount it to a trim piece with
hinges. The door consists of two layers of 3/4-in.-
thick boards that overlap at the corners to add
strength. Rip 1x6 boards to 4-1/2 in. on a table saw
for the outside layer (Figure F, Additional Information
below).
We assembled each layer with pocket screws before
gluing the two layers together, but if you don't own a
pocket hole setup, you could simply screw through
the overlapping boards instead. Complete the door
frame. Then cut the 4 x 8-ft. grooved plywood to fit
the lower recess, and cut a piece of 1/4-in. acrylic
sheet to fit the upper recess. Secure the plywood and
acrylic sheet with 1/2-in. x 1/2-in. moldings nailed to
the inside. Sand the edges of the door flush.
We've simplified the door-hanging process by
mounting the door to a 1-1/2-in.-thick trim piece and
then screwing the trim to the wall. An easy way to
mark and cut matching hinge recesses in both the
door and the trim is to clamp the trim alongside the
door, making sure it extends 1/8 in. beyond the top of
the door. Then mark the hinge cutout on both the
door and the trim at the same time.
If you have a router, use a hinge-mortising bit (or
straight bit) to cut the hinge recesses (Photo 10).
Otherwise, use a sharp chisel. Screw the hinges to
the door and trim. To hang the door, line up a
temporary 2x4 with the bottom of the siding and
screw it to the wall. Then rest the door on the 2x4
and drive 3-in. screws through the trim into the
framing to hold the door in place (Photo 11). Finish
the door installation by adding the top and side trim
pieces.
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Build the windows

Photo 13: Mark the angled cuts on the side

trim pieces
Mark and cut the side trim pieces. Then set them
in place on the top piece to mark the angled cuts.

This is a good rainy day project since you'll build

these parts in your garage or shop. Photos 12 – 14
show how to cut the curved window top and how to
assemble the window.
Figure G (in Additional Information below) shows
details for the marking jig. Photo 12 shows how to
use this setup to draw the curves for the window
pieces. Next cut the side pieces (Figure F, in
Additional Information below). Set the side pieces in
place over the top of the header and mark the angled
cuts (Photo 13). Finish the curved trim piece by first
cutting the angles on each end, and then sawing the
curves with a jigsaw and sanding them smooth. Use
the marking jig to lay out the curved brace, too
(Figure G, in Additional Information below).
Cut the sill piece and assemble the windows with
pocket screws. Using a router with a 3/8-in. rabbet
bit, rout a 3/8-in.-deep recess on the back of the
window to receive the 1/4-in. Plexiglas acrylic sheet
(Photo 14). Set the window frame, recessed side
down, over a piece of acrylic sheet and trace the
shape with a permanent marker. Cut the curve with a
fine-tooth jigsaw blade and the straight sections with
a fine-tooth blade in a table saw or circular saw.
Prime and paint the window and let it dry. Then apply
a thin bead of clear silicone in the recess and embed
the acrylic sheet in it. Secure the acrylic sheet with
glazing points. Let it set up overnight. We cut the grid
pieces from 3/4-in. x 1/2-in. parting stop and glued
them to the acrylic with clear silicone caulk.
A temporary support makes it simple to install the
window. Level a 2x4 and screw it to the wall 2 in.
below the window opening. Then rest the window on
the 2x4 and center it in the opening before driving
screws to secure it (Photo 15). Use caulk to fill the
gaps left by the grooved siding.

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Install the exterior trim
Figure A (above) and Figure E (in Additional
Information below) show the exterior trim details.
Start by mounting the brackets. Line up the outside
edges of the lower brackets with the face of the
siding, push them tight to the soffit and screw them to
the wall. Center the top bracket on the peak and
push it tight to the soffit. Starting with the pieces that
go under the brackets, wrap the corners with the
corner board. Overlap the front corner board onto the
side corner board (Figure E, in Additional Information
below).
Get ready for roofing by adding the fascia boards and
shingle molding. Photo 7 shows how to notch the
fascia boards to fit around the brackets. Keep the
1x2 shingle molding flush to the top of the roof
plywood.

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Roof, stain and paint the shed
Complete the shed by installing shingles and
finishing the exterior. For information on how to install
shingles, go to thefamilyhandyman.com and search
for “roofing.”
Prime and paint the doors and windows before
installing them, then you only need to caulk and fill
nail holes before rolling an additional coat of paint
onto the flat surfaces. The LP SmartSide panel
siding, the composite fascia and corners, and the
fiber cement soffit were all preprimed and required
only two coats of paint to finish.

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Additional Information
Figure A: Shed and Figure B: Floor framing
plan
 Shed Details: Figures C through G
Shed Materials List

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up
before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.

Hammer
Clamps
Air compressor
Air hose
Brad nail gun
Cordless drill
Tape measure
Circular saw
Caulk gun
Chalk line
Level
Drill bit set
Hearing protection
Jigsaw
Stepladder
Pocket hole jig
Router
Sawhorses
 Speed square
Tin snips

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