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Food Resistance Movements Journeying Through Alternative Food Networks Ferne Edwards Full Chapter
Food Resistance Movements Journeying Through Alternative Food Networks Ferne Edwards Full Chapter
Ferne Edwards
Alternatives and Futures: Cultures, Practices,
Activism and Utopias
Series Editor
Anitra Nelson
Informal Urbanism Research Hub, Melbourne School of Design
The University of Melbourne
Melbourne, VIC, Australia
Movements such as degrowth, Occupy, solidarity economies, permacul-
ture, low impact living and Via Campesina variously address key issues of
the contemporary era such as inequalities of wealth and income, environ-
mental crises, and achieving sustainable cities and production. This series
demonstrates the breadth, depth, significance and potential of ‘alterna-
tives’ in the construction of this century, focusing on the type of future
each movement advocates and their strategic agenda.
Alternatives and Futures is of interest to scholars and students across
the social sciences and humanities, especially those working in environ-
mental sustainability, politics and policymaking, environmental justice,
grassroots governance, heterodox economics and activism.
The series offers a forum for constructive critique and analytical reflec-
tion of movements’ directions, activism and activists, their assumptions,
drivers, aims, visions of alternative futures and actual performance and
influence.
Ferne Edwards
Food Resistance
Movements
Journeying Through Alternative Food Networks
Ferne Edwards
Centre for Environment and Sustainability
University of Surrey
Guildford, United Kingdom
© The Author(s), under exclusive licence to Springer Nature Singapore Pte Ltd. 2023
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This Palgrave Macmillan imprint is published by the registered company Springer Nature
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The registered company address is: 152 Beach Road, #21-01/04 Gateway East, Singapore
189721, Singapore
This book is dedicated to the many passionate and critically intelligent
people who I’ve met on this journey. To highlight two we lost along the way.
Paul Martin,
Aka ‘Biodiesel Man’ who introduced me to dumpster diving,
a good friend and one of the truest activists I’ve ever met.
Jane Dixon,
An astute and kind PhD supervisor and dear friend.
Series Editor Foreword
vii
viii SERIES EDITOR FOREWORD
ix
x ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
I would also like to thank the following publishers for granting the
right to reprint material from previously published articles. These include:
“This concise text gives an unflinching state-of-the art survey of popular resistance
to the prevailing global-mass-market industrial food system, backed up with three
excellent ethnographic case studies. A must-read for those interested in and teach-
ing about alternative food systems.”
—Richard Wilk, Open Anthropology Institute and Indiana University
“Ferne Edwards has spent years living and researching and eating with visionaries
of the future of food. Across three continents, her honest, rigorous, and thought-
provoking ethnography uncovers the promise, and the dangers, of some blueprints
for food sovereignty. We ignore those lessons at our peril.”
—Raj Patel, Stuffed and Starved (2008), Research Professor, The University of
Texas at Austin, USA
“The risks and problems associated with globalised food systems are becoming
abundantly clear, so too is the need for credible alternatives. This punchy and
accessible volume brings much-needed clarity to the questions of what resistance
looks like and how it might facilitate widespread change. With a finely honed eth-
nographic sensibility, Ferne Edwards explores an impressive range of urban food
movements – foregrounding the experiences of participants and the lessons that
can be learnt. At once theoretically sophisticated and politically astute, Food
Resistance Movements breathes new life into scholarly and activist perspectives on
Alternative Food Networks.”
—Professor David M. Evans, co-editor of Waste Matters: New Perspectives on
Food and Society (2013), University of Bristol, UK
“This is a book which is very timely in relation to increasing concerns about food
distribution and food waste — in connection with global warming and the war in
Ukraine. These problems are not going away but will intensify, and this is an excel-
lent resource regarding some of the approaches that are being tried in different
parts of the world.”
—Dr Terrence Leahy, University of Newcastle, Australia
Contents
1 Introducing
Food Resistance Movements 1
Alternative Food Networks 4
Trajectory 1: AFNs from Europe 5
Trajectory 2: AFNs from North America 5
Trajectory 3: AFNs in the Global South 11
Trajectory 4: Social Welfare AFNs 13
Why Cities? 17
Case Studies in Australia, Venezuela and Catalonia 18
Ethnographies of Food Resistance Movements 19
The Book Structure 21
Conclusion 22
References 22
2 Food
Waste Activism in Australia 29
The Problem of Overconsumption and Food ‘Waste’ 29
My Radical Beginnings in the Bin 31
The Ethics of Sourcing and Eating ‘Garbage’ 33
Associated Freegan Subcultures 34
Where Do Freegans ‘Shop’? 36
What’s on the Freegan Menu? 38
The Politics of FNB Serving Sites 39
Is Eating ‘Garbage’ Safe? 40
Is It Legal? 42
Constructing a Freegan Identity 43
xiii
xiv Contents
Conclusion 46
References 46
3 The
Food Sovereignty Movement in Venezuela 49
A Brief History of Venezuelan Politics, Dutch Disease and
Agriculture 50
So Enters Chávez 51
In the Field 54
Venezuelan Gastronomy and Food Pathways 56
Indigenous and Traditional Food Pathways 56
The Commercial Pathway 58
The Informal Sector 58
Independent Alternative Food Pathways 59
The Venezuelan Food Sovereignty Movement 60
Rural and Urban Land Reform 60
Urban Productive Programmes 62
Distribution: Subsidised, Regulated and Free Food for All 67
Subsidised and Regulated Supermarket Chains 67
A Blockage in the Food Chain? 69
Subsidised Eateries 71
Free Food 72
Dietary Outcomes 73
Environmental Outcomes 75
Chávez’s Final Years 78
Conclusion 78
References 80
4 Autonomous
Food Spaces in Catalonia 83
A Catalan Culture of Resistance and Protest 85
Internal Governance Processes of Autonomous Food Spaces 91
Can Masdeu 92
L’Aixada 93
La Xarca D’Aliments 94
Governing ‘Openness’ to Sustain Resistance 96
Sharing Physical and Virtual Space 97
Membership 101
Sustaining Autonomous Spaces Through Food Sharing 102
Beyond Ethical Consumption at L’Aixada 102
Contents xv
Anti-consumerism at La Xarxa 104
Degrowth at Can Masdeu 105
Conclusion 107
References 108
5 Reflections
on Food System Transitions111
Beyond Awareness Raising and Behaviour Change 113
Institutionalisation: A Pathway for Integrating AFNs into
Policy and Planning 116
Maintenance and Care: Deepening and Sustaining
Engagement in AFNs 120
Failure 123
Technological Innovation 125
The Commercialisation of AFNs 128
A Food Sharing Ecosystem: Diversification, Hybridisation
and Replication of AFNs 129
Diversification and Hybridisation 131
Replication 134
Translocal Food Movements 136
Food Resistance Movements from Global South to North 138
Conclusion 139
References 140
6 Future
Directions for Food Resistance Movements147
Conclusion 151
References 152
Index153
About the Author
xvii
Abbreviations
xix
List of Figures
xxi
List of Tables
xxiii
CHAPTER 1
Lord Cameron’s estimation that it would take only nine meals after food
supplies shut down for chaos to erupt on British streets is a concern that
still stands true for many cities today (Boycott 2008). Although the glo-
balisation of the food system has produced positive outcomes, such as an
international supply of products to consumers, negative impacts from dis-
tant, complex supply chains and petrochemical-dependant processes con-
cern both academics and activists. A global food system impacts national
economies and environmental and people’s health on a variety of levels.
As food has become a commodity crop in a global market, international
trade policies have overshadowed national food security concerns, favour-
ing produce grown in high volumes to be exchanged for minimum price,
allowing only high volume producers to make a profit (Cockrall-King
2012). A global, industrial, market-based food system encourages unfair
conditions for workers and the inhumane treatment of animals to gain
greater profit from production. It values characteristics of consistency, uni-
formity and durability to allow the long distance transport of products.
These characteristics restrict diversity of what can be transported, while
extensive food miles increase carbon emissions and relocate limited local
resources, such as water and phosphate, to distant destinations. Other
environmental hazards of industrial production include contaminated soil
and waterways that, along with the uncertain impact of genetically
modified crops (GM), create health concerns for animals and people
(Philips 2006).
The nature of the global food system combined with increasing urban-
isation further impacts who can farm what and where. Small-scale farms in
fertile peri-urban regions are increasingly consumed by urban develop-
ment (Szabo 2016). The peri-urban zone is understood as the physical
interface where complex urban and rural interactions take place, a zone
full of conflict and fertility with the potential to foster resilience for food
security and biodiversity. Threatened by urban expansion and unable to
compete in the global marketplace, small-scale farmers are forced to leave
their farms to seek new jobs in the cities, where: “Everyday more and
more people eat more food that has been grown, processed or cooked for
them by fewer and fewer others” (Mintz 2006: 5). Furthermore, risk of
food shortages are becoming more apparent due to extreme weather
events that are further exacerbated by climate change, with many coun-
tries experiencing increased drought, higher temperatures and sea level
rise. These climatic impacts affect both the transport and production of
goods. For example, The Guardian reported (May 2022) that global
warming “amplifies risks all the way through the supply chain, from farm
to warehouse to supermarket shelves”, where farmers in Australia are one
of many countries on the frontline for dramatic weather changes.
In response, food resistance movements are emerging across the globe.
Consisting of diverse groups of people, they resist, respond and foster just
and sustainable alternatives along the food chain to the capitalist industrial
agri-food model. Diverse scales of food resistance movements range from
international movements, such as Via Campesina and slow food, through
to more local actions such as anti-GM protests and community-supported
agriculture (CSA). Many food resistance movements are representative of
New Social Movements (NSMs), emerging alongside the rise of postmod-
ernism and globalisation, witnessing a proliferation of splinter identity
groups. Each social group creates their own space and politicises their own
specific area of social relations in contrast to unified homogenous class-
based struggles. NSMs gain strength and support from sharing “common
interests on a variety of terrains of struggle, often in opposition to the state
and other political and socio-cultural institutions” (Peet and Watts 1996:
31). While many participants in NSMs may possess the intellectual capital
of the new middle class, they do not focus on material gain but instead
choose to challenge the political structures that create injustice.
This development in social movement literature follows a shift from
rural production to urban consumption, challenging assumptions that
1 INTRODUCING FOOD RESISTANCE MOVEMENTS 3
forms of quality and direct farm retail (Goodman et al. 2011; Renting
et al. 2003). Here I describe four key trajectories of AFNs: from Europe,
North America, those with a social welfare focus and the Global South.
The organic food movement emerged during this period with its initial
characteristics of self-governance and private regulation. However, its
countercultural characteristics were later conventionalised by scientific and
industry bodies to transform the sector into an institutionalised, multi-
billion-dollar industry governed by federal legislation and regulations in
the 1990s. The transformation of the organic food movement into a sci-
entifically framed, commercialised, ‘sustainable’ agriculture led it to be
relabelled as “organic lite” (Guthman 2004), an “Organic-Industrial
Complex” (Pollan 2001), or as a “corporate-organic foodscape” (Johnston
et al. 2009).
The local food movement further challenged this conventionalisation
by going ‘beyond organic’ to place emphasis on building “more locally
based, self-reliant food economies” that integrate sustainable food prac-
tices “to enhance the economic, environmental and social health of a par-
ticular place” (Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education Program
cited in Feenstra 2002: 100). Initiatives within the local food movement
in the USA included the 100 Mile Diet and locavore movements with
their associated concepts of food miles, the ecological footprint and ‘inva-
sivore’; a diet of non-indigenous, invasive species considered to be harm-
ful to the environment (Gorman 2011).
Characteristics of the local food movement included the “quality turn”
(Goodman 2004): where the quality of a product could be expressed
through its relationship to the local or to a culinary culture. This assump-
tion of quality relied upon transparent relations between producer and
consumer. ‘Local’ implied food that was fresh, ethical and environmentally
friendly, with localisation said to emplace or embed trust between con-
sumers and producers, conveying knowledge of what the produce con-
tains and how it was grown. ‘Quality’ food then represented relationships
of trust and knowledge that were often, but not always, based on place.
Recognising that quality was socially constructed, contextual and con-
stituted a social, temporal and spatial process that could be interpreted in
a myriad of ways, scholars used a variety of approaches to explore quality
in AFNs. Henk Renting et al. (2003) explored this relationship through
categorising AFNs as more specific, Short Food Supply Chains (SFSCs),
that represented either organic farming, quality production or direct sell-
ing. SFSCs ‘re-socialised’ and ‘re-specialised’ products to incorporate
social and environmental justice values conveyed through transparency
and authenticity created by relations of ‘product-in-place’ or ‘process-in-
place’. The former stressed the link between the product’s place of pro-
duction or producer, including factors of natural conditions and cultural
1 INTRODUCING FOOD RESISTANCE MOVEMENTS 7
220), the processes behind re-localised food products could broaden the
commodification of place and region through food. Examples included
direct sales of niche specialty markets, CSAs and farmers’ markets, while
emerging online technologies, such as those used by fair trade, could pro-
vide a glimpse into the lives of workers and conditions of production
(Goodman et al. 2011).
Alternatively, the term, ‘foodsheds’, was based on the concept of
‘watershed’: a naturally and spatially defined area that represents both the
biological resources and the people who work with these resources to pro-
duce food (Renting et al. 2003). This definition set itself apart from AFNs
as foodsheds needed to be located where there were adequate resources to
grow sufficient food. Reference to foodsheds was found in literature on
eco-communitarianism in North American AFNs (DuPuis and Goodman
2005). Goodman et al. (2011: 68) acknowledged differences between
‘local’ and ‘locality’: as while locality foods may be consumed in place,
they could travel by mobilising cultural signifiers, such as the accreditation
of regional attributes, to be consumed by distant consumers in the mar-
ketplace. Furthermore, the term, ‘bioregionalism’, as applied by Sonnino
and Marsden (2006: 77) was used to embed and revalue regional produce
in competition with products from the conventional market.
The local turn was also interpreted as ‘defensive localism’, a term coined
by Michael Winter (2003) that referred to a politics of protectionism. In
its extreme form, defensive localism could “stress the homogeneity and
coherence of ‘local’, in patriotic opposition to heterogeneous and destabi-
lising outside forces”, creating a local ‘other’, becoming “elitist and reac-
tionary, appealing to narrow nativist sentiments” (Hinrichs 2003: 37).
Hence AFNs could mean many different things to different people for
different purposes—stretching from commercial profit with products trav-
elling from afar through to geographically entrenched, environmental
practices.
These two initial trajectories of AFNs revealed a conflation of character-
istics between different types of AFNs. AFNs represented a loose mix of
actors, activities, philosophies and diets that formed an eclectic group in
opposition to the dominant, global, industrial food system. Local pitted
itself against global, slow against fast, and quality against junk food, while
placing a face on products that were otherwise faceless and placeless to add
value by way of region and production for an other-than-purely economic
purpose. Hence, AFNs were deployed as an umbrella term to state what
they were not, rather than what they were.
1 INTRODUCING FOOD RESISTANCE MOVEMENTS 9
participates in seeking this justice? Who or what will benefit from achiev-
ing such justice? Who is included in or excluded from the fight for change?
A second criticism of AFNs emerging from this trajectory was that of
their exclusivity, racism and elitism, where the boundaries that separated
alternative from conventional food systems could exclude participation.
Although discourse often aspired to social equitable goals, in practice
AFNs were criticised for privileging white, middle-class ‘do-gooders’ to
instigate, access and control alternative means of production. For exam-
ple, Goodman et al. (2011: 14) recognised that “local is not an innocent
term” where the definition of what is considered local and who decides
this definition, homogenises and silences alternative views and practices,
with “food movement activists tend(ing) to draw upon one or other of
these perspectives rather than recognising the tensions between them”
(Goodman et al. 2011: 29). Hence, localism was not always democratic or
representative of local communities (Allen et al. 2003). Likewise, who
deemed what was ‘quality’ often also excludes. A politics of perfection
incorporated both class and race aspects in defining what is ‘good food’
and who can be trusted to provide it (Goodman et al. 2011).
Scholars from North America also spoke of the ‘whiteness’ of AFN
spaces. Access to AFN activities may be limited on racial grounds as people
involved in AFNs tend to “have the wealth to buy organic, the inherited
or schooled knowledge about nutrition or the environment and they are
politically liberal to left” (Slocum 2007: 522). Alison Hope Alkon and
Christie Grace McCullen (2011) amongst others document that it is
mainly “whites” who comprised most of California’s organic farmers
(Allen 2004) and who dominated attendance at farmers’ markets (Payne
2002) and CSA programmes (Hinrichs 2000).
However, more than simply outnumbering people from different racial
backgrounds, AFN spaces were also “coded white” (Guthman 2008) rep-
resenting forms of “racialised space” (Kobayashi and Peake 2000) where
whiteness “carries with it a set of ways of being in the world, a set of cul-
tural practices often not named as ‘white’ by white folks, but looked upon
instead as ‘American’ or ‘normal’” (Frankenberg 1993: 4). These spaces
reflected an “affluent, liberal habitus of whiteness” (Alkon and McCullen
2011: 939) based upon and supported by the struggles of small-scale,
white farmers who existed in “the white farm imaginary”; “an agrarian
narrative specific to whites while masking the contributions and struggles
of people of color in food production” (Alkon and McCullen 2011: 945).
1 INTRODUCING FOOD RESISTANCE MOVEMENTS 11
2011). For example, David Satterthwaite (in Battersby 2012: 143), recog-
nised that “far more attention needs to be paid to the myriad of other ways
in which hunger can be reduced and how these can be supported, fast”.
This “myriad of other ways” included informal markets, street traders,
food vendors and non-market approaches, such as receiving food from
neighbours, the sharing of meals, eating food provided by others and the
borrowing of food (Battersby 2012).
The study of southern AFNs was often included within the informal
sector and rural development literature. The informal sector was also
referred to as the irregular, black, hidden, shadow, parallel or underground
economy, involving criminal activities and survival strategies that were
transferred from developing to developed nations by poor, migrating pop-
ulations. However, Manuel Castells and Alejandro Portes (1989) acknowl-
edged that this definition was dated, biased, narrow and misleading, and
while the informal sector does include criminal activities, it also created
opportunities for alternative economic spaces that can support innovation.
In a more positive light, the ETC Group (2013: NP) referred to such
informal food channels as the ‘peasant food web’, where ‘peasant’ was
used to describe “all those who produce food mostly for themselves and
their communities whether they are rural, urban, or peri-urban farmers,
ocean or freshwater fishers, pastoralists or hunters and gatherers”. Here,
web refers to “the complex of supportive interconnections shared by peas-
ants and communities” (ibid.).
Furthermore, informal food sources were not insubstantial. A survey
conducted in 11 African cities found that 70% of residents in low-income
neighbourhoods regularly purchased food from the informal market or
street vendors (Frayne et al. 2010). In terms of production, the extent and
significance of southern AFNs was difficult to ascertain both due to their
unregulated and undocumented state and due to the focus on commer-
cially profitable monocrops. For example, peasants grew around 7000
crops but the industrial food chain was interested in only about 150 crops
(ETC Group 2013).
Importantly, southern AFNs did not represent simply another form of
remnant informal economy. Instead, they occupied an alternative space as
a reaction against increasingly dominant and inadequate supermarket pro-
visioning, and to obtain previously unavailable cultural foods (Abrahams
2006; Brückner 2021). Southern AFNs broadened the focus from AFNs
as a “hankering for the rural idyllic, or the often elitist quest for conscience-
quenching food” (Abrahams 2006: 28) to consider issues of survival,
1 INTRODUCING FOOD RESISTANCE MOVEMENTS 13
Why Cities?
Cities now house more than half of the world’s population becoming a
focal point for possible sustainable and equitable futures. Currently unsus-
tainable, cities represent highly consumptive sites that rely on constant
supplies of imported food, raw materials and external energy while pro-
ducing large amounts of waste. Furthermore, developing world cities are
rapidly increasing in size and consumption, standing to further exacerbate
an already unsustainable situation. Cities also contribute to ozone deple-
tion, land degradation, loss of biodiversity and the destruction of coastal
zones (Bulkeley 2013). For example, urban consumption in 2020 contrib-
uted to more than 65% of the world’s energy consumption and to more
than 70% of human-made carbon dioxide emissions (Benato 2020;
Vidal 2018).
Although people move to cities to improve their well-being, they often
remain in conditions of poverty. Poor city dwellers experience greater
issues of food access than rural dwellers, as they are dependent on purchas-
ing nearly all their food. As such, people must be able to earn enough
money to afford food while food needs to be available to buy at affordable
prices (Carty and McGrath 2013). Furthermore, common food sources in
cities, such as supermarkets and fast-food chains, offer a diverse selection
of products that include energy-dense, nutrient-poor and highly processed
foods (Hawkes 2008). Some city dwellers find themselves in ‘food des-
erts’, areas where they are unable to access adequate nutritious food
sources.
In recent years, there has been a convergence towards western-style
diets that are rich in fat and refined carbohydrates leading to nutritional
inequalities. This nutrition transition exhibits a declining intake of cereals
and legumes and increased consumption of convenience foods, meat, fats,
salt and sugar (McMichael 2001). When combined with other factors such
as car reliance, busyness, changing forms of leisure and aggressive junk
food marketing, this westernised diet can lead to obesity that in turn con-
tributes to cardiovascular diseases, diabetes and some cancers, as well as
high blood pressure and cholesterol (Hawkes 2008). Obesity is now a
major global issue—in 2016 over 650 million adults were obese, while
globally obesity almost tripled between 1975 and 2016 (WHO 2021).
Urban concerns have prompted a growth in urban-based research and
international policies. Cities were recognised as one of the United Nation’s
Sustainable Development Goals in 2015 and were cited as a crucial factor
18 F. EDWARDS
in the European Union Green Deal in 2019. While some scholars believe
cities represent all that is unsustainable, many others take the perspective
that cities can offer much towards resolving environmental justice and
sustainability challenges, where urban food production can supplement
diets with local, fresh and chemical-free produce and participation in food
activities can improve social, mental and physical health (e.g., see Alaimo
et al. 2008; Wakefield et al. 2007). Hence urban-based food resistance
movements are well placed to mobilise resources, to improve health, to
reduce environmental consumption and pollution and to improve liveli-
hoods, whilst advocating for social and environmental justice.
Conclusion
Food resistance movements resist capitalist processes that perpetuate social
and environmental injustices. Building on criticisms of AFNs, they seek to
establish alternatives that prioritise social justice and environmental sus-
tainability values that go beyond elitist, individualist, racist and capitalist
engaged approaches. This book focuses on urban-based food resistance
movements, representing potentially powerful sites for social mobilisation,
experimentation and impactful solutions. I next describe the freegan food
waste movement in Australia: a radical practice that emerged in the early
2000s to protest waste and overconsumption in the west.
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26 F. EDWARDS
FOOTNOTES:
And whence that threatening cloud that hangs upon their head?
That threatens now to burst? What? Is their leader dead?
And is he borne away, who all our bosoms warmed?
He fell,—there lies his sword,—there lie his shield and helm.
What sorrows overwhelm
The conqueror disarmed!
But when thou humbledst low the Moslem’s pride and scorn,
And bad’st her crescent sink, her vain and feeble horn,
And pass’dst the Belt again, with songs and hymns of joy,
Who that perceived thy flag, in all its mightiness,—
What Russian could repress
The tears that dimmed his eye?
Oh, yes! Oh, yes, ’tis he! The eagle there appears,
And ocean bears him on, as proud of him she bears:
And see his brother too, who led to victory, there—
And Spirídov, whose praise all ages shall renew,
And Greyg and Ilín too,—
The heroes, without fear.
But wherefore do I rest,—what fancies led me on?
The glorious eagle now to Asia’s coast is flown,
O’er streams, and hills, and vales, he takes his course sublime,
My eye in vain pursues his all-subduing flight.
O vision of delight!
O victory-girded time!
And heaven, and earth, and sea have seen our victories won,
And echo with the deeds that Catherine has done;
The Baltic coasts in vain oppose the march of Paul,
Not the vast North alone, but all th’ Ægean Sea
Shall own his sovereignty,
And the whole earthly ball!
FOOTNOTES: