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The Palgrave Handbook of Agricultural and Rural Development in Africa 1St Ed Edition Evans S Osabuohien Full Chapter
The Palgrave Handbook of Agricultural and Rural Development in Africa 1St Ed Edition Evans S Osabuohien Full Chapter
The Palgrave Handbook of Agricultural and Rural Development in Africa 1St Ed Edition Evans S Osabuohien Full Chapter
“I would like to congratulate Evans Osabuohien for bringing together so many scholars,
especially Africans within the continent and in the Diaspora, to share their insights on rele-
vant issues that matter for the transformation of Africa’s agriculture. This transformation is
truly a critical facet of Africa’s general economic development prospects.”
—Jann Lay, Professor, German Institute of Global and Area Studies (GIGA), Hamburg
& University of Goettingen, Goettingen, Germany
“This is a remarkable book that highlights important and timely agricultural issues affecting
Africa’s rural poor. In addition to increasing the knowledge base, providing policy-relevant
‘food for thought’ and pushing forward development efforts, The Palgrave Handbook of
Agricultural and Rural Development in Africa serves as a solid reference point for future
scholars, researchers and policy makers interested in informing and executing disruptive
innovations in rural spaces on the African continent.”
—Uche Ekhator-Mobayode, Assistant Professor of Economics,
University of Pittsburgh at Bradford, USA
“An exceptionally rich and comprehensive volume that provides an in-depth view of issues
relating to agricultural and rural development in Africa and addresses pertinent policy ques-
tions. This is an important book, examining agricultural transformation from different
perspectives across different countries on the continent to raise arising concerns, discuss
impacts and provide helpful policies and recommendations. Astonishing scholarship, I hope
this volume become a standard in the literature on development economics on Africa.”
—Samuel Amponsah, President of the African Finance and Economic Association
(AFEA), Institute for International Strategy, Tokyo International University, Japan
“Unlike the previous publications on the subject, this book brings together the work of
people who are concerned and knowledgeable about the dynamics of rural development
and the channels through which transformation in agricultural land investments, produc-
tion, processing, and other value chain activities boost productivity, income and employ-
ment for people living and working in rural areas in many African countries. By focusing
on agricultural and rural development in Africa, this book has given the plights of poor
farmers the special attention and efforts they deserve. Ultimately, the future success of ini-
tiatives to alleviate poverty, create employment and increase the livelihood of households in
Africa is in the hands of Africans themselves and the competencies of its training institutes
and research organizations. It provides a platform for African researchers to showcase their
proficiencies in producing high quality research with robust and more widely applicable
results.”
—Jacinta Nwachukwu, Professor, Lancashire School of Business and Enterprise,
University of Central Lancashire, UK
“This book, which looks at agricultural and rural development in Africa, is timely and
dovetails very well with the current African and international development agenda with
respect to African Union Agenda 2063 and the United Nations Sustainable Development
Goals (SDGs). Furthermore, the theme of the book is perfectly aligned with the African
Development Bank’s High-5 on Feed Africa as well as the 2003 Maputo and 2014 Malabo
declarations on the Comprehensive Africa Agriculture Development Program (CAADP).
The book provides rich background information for policy makers, development partners,
students, and researchers. Undeniably, there is something in the book for every person,
especially those who have a great interest in agricultural research and rural development.”
—Adeleke O. Salami, Principal Macroeconomist, African Development
Bank Group Abidjan, Cote D’ Ivoire
“During the last decades, agricultural and rural development have experienced several ‘ups
and downs’ with respect to the attention of academics, policy and development coopera-
tion. The agricultural sector itself, and its main actors, seems to be too weak to ‘hype’ itself
the attention it deserves. Therefore, it is highly welcome that a large group of overwhelm-
ingly African scholars has tackled the subject in this volume and presents a broad spectrum
of views on many of the topics that move the sector. I am optimistic that it will contribute a
great deal in maintaining and sustaining the attention!”
—Michael Brüntrup, Senior Research Fellow, German Development
Institute, Bonn, Germany
“The Agricultural sector is vital to Africa’s prosperity and development. This sector
employs more than half of the labor force but produces only 15% of GDP, with consider-
able cross-country variation, indicating that current performance remains below potential.
The Palgrave Handbook of Agricultural and Rural Development in Africa contains techni-
cally rich and policy-relevant chapters that shed light on the performance and challenges of
Africa’s agriculture sector, particularly, youth employment, agricultural productivity, agri-
cultural value chain, access to financial services, agricultural cooperatives and food security
in Africa. Therefore, this book offers an excellent contribution for better understanding of
the current state and prospects of Africa’s agricultural transformation and generates valuable
insights for improved agricultural policymaking on the continent.”
—Ramu Govindasamy, Professor and Chair, Department of Agricultural, Food,
and Resource Economics, Rutgers, The State University of New Jersey, USA
“The 2019 progress report on the attainment of the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs)
in Africa highlights a stark warning: unless serious action is taken by African countries now,
most of the SDGs are unlikely to be met in Africa by 2030. It is known that the greatest
development challenges in Africa are in the rural areas where about 60% of the population
live and where agriculture is by far the main economic activity. It is against this background
that the timeliness and importance of this book must be judged. The plea by the authors for
agricultural and rural transformation for Africa’s development rings loud and clear through-
out the book; may it be heeded!”
—Goolam Mohamedbhai, Former Secretary-General, Association of African
Universities; Former President, International Association of Universities;
Professor and Former Vice-Chancellor, University of Mauritius, Mauritius
Evans S. Osabuohien
Editor
Witten/Herdecke University
Witten, Germany
© The Editor(s) (if applicable) and The Author(s), under exclusive license to Springer Nature
Switzerland AG 2020
This work is subject to copyright. All rights are solely and exclusively licensed by the Publisher,
whether the whole or part of the material is concerned, specifically the rights of translation,
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computer software, or by similar or dissimilar methodology now known or hereafter developed.
The use of general descriptive names, registered names, trademarks, service marks, etc. in this
publication does not imply, even in the absence of a specific statement, that such names are
exempt from the relevant protective laws and regulations and therefore free for general use.
The publisher, the authors and the editors are safe to assume that the advice and information in
this book are believed to be true and accurate at the date of publication. Neither the publisher
nor the authors or the editors give a warranty, expressed or implied, with respect to the material
contained herein or for any errors or omissions that may have been made. The publisher remains
neutral with regard to jurisdictional claims in published maps and institutional affiliations.
This Palgrave Macmillan imprint is published by the registered company Springer Nature
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Foreword by Dr. Badar Alam Iqbal
v
vi FOREWORD BY DR. BADAR ALAM IQBAL
supported by the citations. The citations are up to date and well inserted at
the appropriate places to enhance the academic value of the book.
I do agree with the observations of the editor that “to achieve the desired
agricultural transformation and development in Africa, more concerted efforts
are required in formulating and implementing policies that will make finan-
cial resources available to the agricultural sector; reducing employment bot-
tlenecks; access to agricultural-friendly technologies; adherence to principles
guiding land acquisitions, among others. The aforementioned are germane to
ensure that the desired agricultural and rural development in Africa are not
only sustainable but people-centred”.
It is true that the basic purpose and function of agriculture and rural devel-
opment is to boost the purchasing power of the people and their respective
quality of life. These are the essential facets for transformation of traditional
economy into modern economy. This could be possible when the required
amount of investment is made out in the major segments of the rural econ-
omy of the African continent. There is a correct saying that “rural Africa is
the real Africa” and economic, social, and political emancipation cannot see
the light of the day unless and until there is accelerating pace of growth and
development in “rural Africa.” Thus, the main challenge is the choice of the
technology and its application in the agriculture and rural sectors.
The book provides a critical and valuable insight into the structure and
function of the agriculture and rural economy in the African region and
countries. It is both intensive and extensive. The book is “light and fruit
bearing” in nature and contents. I must congratulate the editor and all the
contributors for providing such a study, which will serve the better cause of
agricultural and rural development on the African continent. It will also serve
as an eye “opener” for planners and policymakers on the continent, who may
take into consideration the issues raised and solutions provided, especially in
the context of finance, food security, and the land management system. There
must be an integrated approach for meeting the rising challenges which the
African continent, in general, and the rural economy, in particular, face and
which the book unveils to the readers.
Monarch University
Zug, Switzerland
Foreword by Simplice Asongu
It is a consensus both in scholarly and policy circles that after two decades
of economic growth resurgence, many lives in Africa have not improved. It
is apparent from the attendant literature that many countries in the conti-
nent did not achieve the Millennium Development Goals (MDGs) target of
halving extreme poverty by 2015. In summary, over the past two d ecades,
while extreme poverty has decreased substantially in other regions of the
world, close to half of the countries in Africa were substantially off-track
from achieving the MDG extreme poverty target. Post-2015 policy reports
and scholarship are also consistent on the view that unless paradigm shifts are
taken on board, it is very unlikely that most countries in Africa would achieve
most Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) targets by 2030.
In the light of the above, The Palgrave Handbook on Agricultural and
Rural Development in Africa is a timely scholarly contribution that provides
critical insights into the Main Issues and Imperatives that are worth engag-
ing by scholars and policymakers in order to steer Africa towards the achieve-
ment of the SDGs. Whereas almost all dimensions of the SDGs are engaged
in the book, two specific SDGs merit emphasis. SDG2 (end hunger, achieve
food security and improved nutrition and promote sustainable agriculture) and
SDG 8 (promote sustained, inclusive and sustainable economic growth, full and
productive employment and decent work for all), which are central elements of
the book, clearly articulate the imperative of addressing the challenge of agri-
culture and food security in the light of growing concerns about job creation,
especially among the rural population. The narratives in the book are not
exclusively limited to the livelihoods pertaining to primary production. This
is essentially because, insights into the non-farm economy and value chains
are also provided to articulate the interdependence of agriculture with other
sectors of the economy in order to maximize targeted inclusive benefits for
society.
vii
viii FOREWORD BY SIMPLICE ASONGU
The lessons learned from the failed integrated rural development p rograms
in the 1960s are taken into profound account. In essence, policy syndromes
and Main Issues of the failed rural development dominant paradigms of
donors in the immediate post-independence era as well as subsequent
structural adjustment and sector-wide paradigms from international financial
institutions are addressed in this timely book. Accordingly, policy measures
and Imperatives proposed in this scholarship acknowledge past lessons
surrounding donor-funded investments, which cannot be effective unless
there are substantial policy environmental changes. Hence, inter alia,
enhanced political will and institutional capacity are some imperatives for
the suggested policy initiatives to be sustainably taken on board. The novel
approaches to rural transformation and development covered in the book are
built on proven and documented contemporary successes on what works for
agricultural and rural development. These include: people-centred approaches
that are tailored to finding local solutions pertaining to local opportunities
and challenges; building a conducive environment for inclusive and responsi-
ble investment in the private sector; evidence-tailored solutions that are resil-
ient, inclusive and sustainable; engaging investments and policy concerns with
transparency and accountability and strong ownership by stakeholders at the
national levels (especially civil society and farming organizations).
In summary, the new paradigms to rural development proposed herein
considerably acknowledge the central role of the rural world which, contrary
to assumptions pertaining to policy syndromes of failed paradigms, are very
different and extremely diverse, complex, and dynamic from one country to
another. Hence, the Issues raised and Imperatives documented in this book
for agriculture and rural development carefully engage the fact that the
connectedness between the modern economy and the rural p opulation
is changing dramatically and hence multifaceted and country-specific
approaches are worthwhile.
A relevant common feature that is apparent among the authors of various
chapters is that the analyzed findings are succinctly summarized in order to
increase readability and accessibility on the part of scholars and policymakers
who might need more technical knowhow to grasp the robust empirical
analyses and corresponding policy suggestions. Therefore, the book is an
easy-to-read and richly policy-relevant scholarship for both non-specialists and
specialists.
The editor wishes to most sincerely appreciate the helpful assistance provided
by individuals and organizations, which made this research project become
a reality right from the ideas formation, conceptualization, proposal stage,
review to this beautiful scientific piece. The dedication of the contributing
authors of the respective chapters as well as the reviewers is greatly
acknowledged.
It is worthy of note that the concept of this research project concretized
from my research activities as a Visiting Professor at Faculty of Management
and Economics, Witten/Herdecke University (W/HU), Germany with fund-
ing from the Alexander von Humboldt Foundation (AvH), Germany. Thus, I
deeply appreciate the award from AvH for providing stipend for my stay and
that of my family members in Germany, which enhanced my focus and con-
centration. The helpful assistance from my hosts at W/HU (Dr. Magdalene
Silberberger and Prof. Joachim Zweynert) for creating compelling and serene
ambience for productive research engagement is appreciated.
The provision of a good working environment by The German
Development Institute during my short research stay in June 2019 after
my Keynote Speech at the Jan Walliser Memorial Lecture, which facilitated
the writing of the preliminary pages of the book, is equally acknowledged.
Similarly, I appreciate Covenant University for granting me the permis-
sion to embark on research leave that enabled me to stay focused. My sin-
cere appreciation also goes to my former hosts (Dr. Michael Bruentrup,
German Development Institute, Bonn and Prof. Jann Lay, German Institute
for Global and Area Studies-GIGA, Hamburg) who have remained veritable
source of intellectual stimulation over the years.
The call for the book chapters had a wide coverage across the globe, which
was facilitated by numerous networks that assisted in disseminating the infor-
mation. These include: Dr. Kathleen G. Beegle (World Bank), United Nations
Conference for Trade and Development Virtual Institute (UNCTAD Vi),
ix
x ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
African Finance and Economic Association (AFEA) network, Council for the
Development of Social Science in Africa (CODESRIA), Nigerian Economic
Society (NES), African Economic Research Consortium (AERC), Young
African Researchers in Agriculture (YARA), African Growth and Development
Policy Modeling Consortium (AGRODEP), African Political Economy
Association, African-German Network of Excellence in Science (AGNES),
Swedish Institute, among others.
Furthermore, I remain grateful to faculty and staff of the Department
of Economics and Development Studies, Centre for Economic Policy and
Development Research (CEPDeR) as well as Regional Centre of Expertise,
Ogun (RCE Ogun), Covenant University for valuable insights that helped the
incubation and hatching of this laudable project. I wish to also acknowledge
the inputs and suggestions received from participants and organizers (too
numerous to itemize) at various seminars, conferences, and workshops across
the world where the ideas, processes, and stages of the research project were
discussed.
Finally, I am eternally grateful to the Most High God for the strength and
wisdom as well as my family members for their unquantifiable supports that
created healthy and fertile ground to nurture and sustain the ideas all through
despite other issues contesting for my time and attention.
Introduction 1
Evans S. Osabuohien
xi
xii CONTENTS
Index 641
Notes on Contributors
xv
xvi NOTES ON CONTRIBUTORS
xxxiii
xxxiv LIST OF FIGURES
xxxvii
xxxviii LIST OF TABLES
Evans S. Osabuohien
In the last two decades, some efforts have been made to examine agricultural
transformation (e.g. Goetz et al. 2001) or rural transformation (Rauch et al.
2016) in a given context. However, exploring agricultural transformation in
connection to rural transformation and development has not received in-depth
investigation. It is also understandable that the agricultural sector (unlike many
other sectors) needs to adapt to a given technology as well as consideration for
local circumstances and natural conditions for productive and optimal engage-
ment particularly in developing economies. In addition, the issue of land ten-
ure security, which is crucial for agricultural production in African countries,
differs in many respects compared to those of other regions (Osabuohien et al.
2015, 2019; Herrmann et al. 2018). The above is akin to the concern of the
increasing wave of large-scale agricultural land investments (LALIs) in Africa
with over 65% of the total world figure (Osabuohien et al. 2015; Land Matrix
Global Observatory [LMGO] 2017), which necessarily need to be knitted into
rural spaces where such agricultural activities usually take place.
The aforementioned issues are imperative because in many African coun-
tries the agricultural sector is closely related to issues of poverty reduction;
employment creation; and the livelihood of many households depend on
agriculture especially in rural areas (Osabuohien 2014; Nolte and Ostermeier
2017; Lay et al. 2018). The discourse is also essential for the attainment of
E. S. Osabuohien (*)
Department of Economics and Development Studies & Chair,
Centre for Economic Policy and Development Research (CEPDeR),
Covenant University, Ota, Nigeria
e-mail: evans.osabuohien@covenantuniversity.edu.ng
Alexander von Humboldt Visiting Professor, Witten/Herdecke University,
Witten, Germany
coefficient of urban electricity access turns out positive and significant. This
implies that urban electricity access, as expected, impacts on agricultural
productivity. Thus, providing electricity access in urban areas may facilitate
agricultural productivity. The authors opined that improving the overall elec-
tricity access has positive and significant effects on agricultural productivity in
SSA countries. Thus, there is the need for policymakers in the region to focus
on improving overall electrification to boost agricultural productivity and
economic development. They concluded that, rather than prioritizing rural
electrification, which solely focuses on the production side of the agricultural
value chain, electricity infrastructure intervention in SSA should consider the
entire agricultural value chain.
Agricultural land investments affect smallholders processing and value chain
gains and this subsequently affects food security. On agricultural value chain
development, Oluwaseun Kolade, Oluwasoye Mafimisebi, and Oluwakayode
Aluko in the sixth chapter draw the readers’ attention to the challenges faced
by, and opportunities available to, smallholder farmers beyond the farmgate.
The authors noted that for many smallholders, the most consequential, and
often the most ignored, constraints exist beyond the farmgate in the value
chain. These constraints include the limited access to useful information and
low technological capacities for post-production processing and packaging,
the challenge of quality requirements and delivery for high-valued markets,
limited connections to established market actors, and weak transportation
networks. Their study highlighted the critical role of social capital (in its
bonding, bridging, and linking forms) in helping farmers to overcome the
various constraints in the value chain. In sum, the authors argued that social
capital is an important resource that smallholder farmers can deploy to miti-
gate and overcome their relative resource disadvantage relative to big farms,
in accessing and benefitting from the value chain.
LLIs spend less amount of their money on consumption. It was found that
an average household spends less money on nonfood expenditure as per cap-
ita expenditure on food is higher than nonfood per household. According
to the authors, LLIs are mostly located in communities where household
average size of plot area is larger and this is what is observed as communi-
ties with LLIs have households average plot size (7309) higher than house-
holds (5173) in communities without LLIs. Also, on household welfare
outcomes, an average household in communities with LLIs has consump-
tion higher than their counterparts in communities without LLIs and change
in the period has no effect on the consumption pattern of households. The
authors found that despite the fact that there exists a direct negative effect of
LLI presence on household total consumption, (notably food and nonfood
consumption), there is a likely positive effect from the presence of LLI when
considering the combination of other unobserved characteristics such as pres-
ence of structures to effectively negotiate and intermediate between landown-
ers and the land investors that may affect the relationship.
In the chapter “Agricultural Productivity and Household Welfare in Uganda:
Examining the Relevance of Agricultural Improvement Interventions,”
Nicholas Kilimani, John Nnyanzi, Ibrahim Okumu, and Edward Bbaale
analyzed the growth in agricultural productivity and household welfare in
Uganda using three waves of nationally representative data (Living Standards
Measurement Study-Integrated Surveys in Agriculture [LSMS-ISA]). The
authors demonstrated that the dependency ratio declined from nearly 0.65
in 2009 to less than 0.56 in 2013 implying a changing household composi-
tion with households having fewer children than adults and that the observed
change could be a positive step toward reducing the negative effects of a
higher dependency ratio on household welfare. Furthermore, the authors
reiterated that land productivity is important for household welfare improve-
ment. In this regard, they found that a 0.43% increase in land productivity
increased real consumption per capita by 0.25% when land productivity is
modeled and 0.23% when real value of production per unit of labor is mod-
eled. Also, the wealth of households as measured by livestock ownership in
tropical livestock units was found to have increased marginally from 2.32 in
2009 to 2.65 in 2013. The authors also indicated that farmers’ technical effi-
ciency and real consumption per capita are related positively. Thus, they con-
clude that improving technical efficiency of farmers is important to increase
production and hence real consumption per capita.
Agricultural labor as a resource could be harnessed for increased pro-
ductivity if keen interest is focused on the pattern of labor usage in the
agricultural sector, as opined by Olufemi Popoola and Kayode Adejare in
the chapter “Pattern of Labor Use and Productivity Among Agricultural
Households in Nigeria.” The authors examined the pattern of labor use
and labor productivity among agricultural households in Nigeria and found
that the number of workers employed during planting and harvesting activ-
ities differ markedly between female-headed and male-headed households.
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been so much approved, that we can recommend it with some
confidence, as it stands. Modern taste would perhaps be rather in
favour of rich brown gravy and thick tomata sauce, or sauce
poivrade.
82. A deep oblong dish of suitable size seems better adapted to this purpose.
In dishing the pig lay the body flat in the middle, and the head and
ears at the ends and sides. When very pure oil can be obtained, it is
preferable to butter for the basting: it should be laid on with a bunch
of feathers. A pig of three weeks old is considered as best suited to
the table, and it should always be dressed if possible the day it is
killed.
1-1/4 to 1-3/4 hour.
BAKED PIG.
Prepare the pig exactly as for roasting; truss, and place it in the
dish in which it is to be sent to the oven, and anoint it thickly in every
part with white of egg which has been slightly beaten; it will require
no basting, nor further attention of any kind, and will be well crisped
by this process.
PIG À LA TARTARE
When the shoulders of a cold roast pig are left entire, take them off
with care, remove the skin, trim them into good form, dip them into
clarified butter or very pure salad oil, then into fine crumbs highly
seasoned with cayenne and mixed with about a half-teaspoonful of
salt. Broil them over a clear brisk fire, and send them quickly to table,
as soon as they are heated through and equally browned, with
tomata sauce, or sauce Robert. Curried crumbs and a currie-sauce
will give an excellent variety of this dish; and savoury herbs with two
or three eschalots chopped small together, and mixed with the
bread-crumbs, and brown eschalot sauce to accompany the broil,
will likewise be an acceptable one to many tastes.
SUCKING PIG EN BLANQUETTE. (ENTRÉE.)
Raise the flesh from the bones of a cold roast pig, free it from the
crisp outer skin or crackling, and cut it down into small handsome
slices. Dissolve a bit of butter the size of an egg, and throw in a
handful of button-mushrooms, cleaned and sliced; shake these over
the fire for three or four minutes, then stir to them a dessertspoonful
of flour and continue to shake or toss them gently, but do not allow
them to brown. Add a small bunch of parsley, a bay-leaf, a middling-
sized blade of mace, some salt, a small quantity of cayenne or white
pepper, half a pint of good veal or beef broth, and from two to three
glasses of light white wine. Let these boil gently until reduced nearly
one third; take out the parsley and mace, lay in the meat, and bring it
slowly to the point of simmering; stir to it the beaten yolks of three
fresh eggs, and the strained juice of half a lemon Serve the
blanquette very hot.
TO ROAST PORK.
The skin of this joint may be removed entirely, but if left on it must
be scored lengthwise, or in the direction in which it will be carved.
The pork should be young, of fine quality, and of moderate size.
Roast it very carefully, either by the directions given in the preceding
receipt, or when the skin is taken off, by those for a saddle of mutton,
allowing in the latter case from three quarters of an hour to a full
hour more of the fire for it in proportion to its weight. Serve it with
good brown gravy and tomata sauce, or sauce Robert; or with apple
sauce should it be preferred. 20 minutes to the pound, quite [TN: text
missing.]
TO BROIL OR FRY PORK CUTLETS.
Cut them about half an inch thick from a delicate loin of pork, trim
them into neat form, and take off part of the fat, or the whole of it
when it is not liked; dredge a little pepper or cayenne upon them,
and broil them over a clear and moderate fire from fifteen to eighteen
minutes: sprinkle a little fine salt upon them just before they are
dished. They may be dipped into egg and then into bread-crumbs
mixed with minced sage, and finished in the usual way.[83] When
fried, flour them well, and season them with salt and pepper first.
Serve them with gravy in the pan, or with sauce Robert.
83. If broiled, with the addition of these a little clarified butter must be added to
the egg, or sprinkled on the cutlets.
COBBETT’S RECEIPT FOR CURING BACON.
“All other parts being taken away, the two sides that remain, and
which are called flitches, are to be cured for bacon. They are first
rubbed with salt on their inside, or flesh sides, then placed one on
the other, the flesh sides uppermost in a salting trough, which has a
gutter round its edges to drain away the brine; for to have sweet and
fine bacon, the flitches must not be sopping in brine, which gives it
the sort of taste that barrel-pork and sea-junk have, and than which
is nothing more villainous. Everyone knows how different is the taste
of fresh dry salt from that of salt in a dissolved state. Therefore,
change the salt often; once in four or five days. Let it melt and sink
in, but let it not lie too long. Change the flitches, put that at the
bottom which was first on the top. Do this a couple of times. This
mode will cost you a great deal more in salt than the sopping mode;
but without it your bacon will not be so sweet and fine, nor keep so
well. As to the time required for making the flitches sufficiently salt, it
depends on circumstances; the thickness of the flitch, the state of
the weather, the place wherein the salting is going on. It takes a
longer time for a thick than for a thin flitch; it takes longer in dry than
in damp weather, it takes longer in a dry than in a damp place. But
for the flitches of a hog of five score, in weather not very dry or very
damp, about six weeks may do; and as yours is to be fat, which
receives little injury from over-salting, give time enough; for you are
to have bacon till Christmas comes again. The place for salting
should, like a dairy, always be cool, but always admit of a free
circulation of air; confined air, though cool, will taint meat sooner
than the midday sun accompanied with a breeze. With regard to
smoking the bacon, two precautions are necessary: first to hang the
flitches where no rain comes down upon them, and next, that the
smoke must proceed from wood, not peat, turf, nor coal. As to the
time that it requires to smoke a flitch, it must depend a good deal
upon whether there be a constant fire beneath, and whether the fire
be large or small. A month will do if the fire be pretty constant, and
such as a farm house fire usually is. But oversmoking, or rather, too
long hanging in the air, makes the bacon rust. Great attention
should, therefore, be paid to this matter. The flitch ought not to be
dried up to the hardness of a board, and yet it ought to be perfectly
dry. Before you hang it up, lay it on the floor, scatter the flesh-side
pretty thickly over with bran or with some fine saw-dust, not of deal
or fir. Rub it on the flesh, or pat it well down upon it. This keeps the
smoke from getting into the little openings, and makes a sort of crust
to be dried on.
“To keep the bacon sweet and good, and free from hoppers, sift
fine some clean and dry wood-ashes. Put some at the bottom of a
box or chest long enough to hold a flitch of bacon. Lay in one flitch;
and then put in more ashes, then another flitch, and cover this with
six or eight inches of the ashes. The place where the box or chest is
kept ought to be dry, and should the ashes become damp they
should be put in the fire-place to dry, and when cold, put back again.
With these precautions the bacon will be as good at the end of the
year as on the first day.”
Obs.—Although the preceding directions for curing the bacon are
a little vague as regards the proportions of salt and pork, we think
those for its after-management will be acceptable to many of our
readers, as in our damp climate it is often a matter of great difficulty
to preserve hams and bacon through the year from rust.
A GENUINE YORKSHIRE RECEIPT FOR CURING HAMS AND
BACON.
“Let the swine be put up to fast for twenty-four hours before they
are killed (and observe that neither a time of severe frost, nor very
damp weather, is favourable for curing bacon). After a pig has been
killed and scalded, let it hang twelve hours before it is cut up, then
for every stone or fourteen pounds’ weight of the meat, take one
pound of salt, an ounce and a quarter of saltpeter, and half an ounce
of coarse sugar. Rub the sugar and saltpetre first into the fleshy
parts of the pork, and remove carefully with a fork any extravasated
blood that may appear on it, together with the broken vessels
adjoining; apply the salt especially to those parts, as well as to the
shank-ends of the hams, and any other portions of the flesh that are
more particularly exposed. Before the salt is added to the meat,
warm it a little before the fire, and use only a part of it in the first
instance; then, as it dissolves, or is absorbed by the meat, add the
remainder at several different times. Let the meat in the meanwhile
lie either on clean straw, or on a cold brick or stone floor: it will
require from a fortnight to three weeks’ curing, according to the state
of the atmosphere. When done, hang it in a cool dry place, where
there is a thorough current of air, and let it remain there until it is
perfectly dry, when the salt will be found to have crystallized upon
the surface. The meat may then be removed to your store, and kept
in a close chest, surrounded with clean outer straw. If very large, the
hams will not be in perfection in less than twelve months from the
time of their being stored.”
Pork 20 stone; salt, 20 lbs.; saltpetre, 20 oz.; sugar, 10 oz.; 14 to
21 days.
KENTISH MODE OF CUTTING UP AND CURING A PIG.
Cut the bacon from the pig with as little lean to it as possible. Rub
it well in every part with salt which has been dried, reduced to
powder, and sifted; put the layers of bacon close against and upon
each other, in a shallow wooden trough, and set in a cool, but not a
damp cellar; add more salt all round the bacon, and lay a board, with
a very heavy weight upon it. Let it remain for six weeks, then hang it
up in a dry and airy place.
Pork, 14 lbs.; salt, 14 oz.: 6 weeks.
TO PICKLE CHEEKS OF BACON AND HAMS.
One pound of common salt, one pound of the coarsest sugar, and
one ounce of saltpetre, in fine powder, to each stone (fourteen
pounds) of the meat will answer this purpose extremely well. An
ounce of black pepper can be added, if liked, and when less sugar is
preferred, the proportion can be diminished one half, and the
quantity of salt as much increased. Bacon also may be cured by this
receipt, or by the Bordyke one for hams. A month is sufficient time
for the salting, unless the pork be very large, when five weeks must
be allowed for a ham. The ingredients should be well mixed, and all
applied at the same time.
To each 14 lbs. of pork, salt, 1 lb.; coarse sugar, 1 lb.; saltpetre, 1
oz.; pepper (if used), 1 oz.: 4 to 5 weeks.
MONSIEUR UDE’s RECEIPT, HAMS SUPERIOR TO
WESTPHALIA.
(Excellent.)
“Take the hams as soon as the pig is sufficiently cold to be cut up,
rub them well with common salt, and leave them for three days to
drain; throw away the brine, and for a couple of hams of from fifteen
to eighteen pounds weight, mix together two ounces of saltpetre, a
pound of coarse sugar, and a pound of common salt; rub the hams in
every part with these, lay them into deep pickling-pans with the rind
downwards, and keep them for three days well covered with the salt
and sugar; then pour over them a bottle of good vinegar, and turn
them in the brine, and baste them with it daily for a month; drain
them well, rub them with bran, and let them be hung for a month high
in a chimney over a wood-fire to be smoked.”
Hams, of from 15 to 18 lbs. each, 2; to drain 3 days. Common salt,
and coarse sugar, each 1 lb.; saltpetre, 2 oz.: 3 days. Vinegar, 1
bottle: 1 month. To be smoked 1 month.
Obs.—Such of our readers as shall make trial of this admirable
receipt, will acknowledge, we doubt not, that the hams thus cured
are in reality superior to those of Westphalia. It was originally given
to the public by the celebrated French cook, Monsieur Ude. He
directs that the hams when smoked should be hung as high as
possible from the fire, that the fat may not be melted; a very
necessary precaution, as the mode of their being cured renders it
peculiarly liable to do so. This, indeed, is somewhat perceptible in
the cooking, which ought, therefore, to be conducted with especial
care. The hams should be very softly simmered,[84] and not over-
done. They should be large, and of finely-fed pork, or the receipt will
not answer. We give the result of our first trial of it, which was
perfectly successful, the ham cured by it being of the finest possible
flavour.
84. We have not had the trial made ourselves, but we think they would be even
finer baked than boiled.
Leg of Suffolk farm-house pork, 14 to 15 lbs.; saltpetre, 1-1/4 oz.;
strong coarse salt, 6 oz.; coarse sugar, 8 oz.: 3 days. Fine whitewine
vinegar, 1 pint. In pickle, turned daily, 1 month. Smoked over wood, 1
month.
Obs.—“When two hams are pickled together, a smaller proportion
of the ingredients is required for each, than for one which is cured by
itself.”
SUPER-EXCELLENT BACON.
For several successive years, after first testing the above receipt,
we had it adopted for curing bacon, with even more highly
satisfactory results, as it was of incomparable flavour, and remained
good for a great length of time, the vinegar preserving it entirely from
becoming rusted. Well-fed pork of delicate size was always used for
it, and excellent vinegar. The ingredients were added in the
proportions given in the receipt for the Suffolk ham which preceeds
this, and the same time was allowed for the salting and smoking.
HAMS.
(Bordyke Receipt.)
After the hams have been rubbed with salt, and well drained from
the brine, according to our previous directions, take, for each
fourteen pounds weight of the pork, one ounce of saltpetre in fine
powder mixed with three ounces of very brown sugar; rub the meat
in every part with these, and let it remain some hours, then cover it
well with eight ounces of bay-salt, dried and pounded, and mixed
with four ounces of common salt: in four days add one pound of
treacle, and keep the hams turned daily, and well basted with the
pickle for a month. Hang them up to drain for a night, fold them in
brown paper, and send them to be smoked for a month. An ounce of
ground black pepper is often mixed with the saltpetre in this receipt,
and three ounces of bruised juniper-berries are rubbed on to the
meat before the salt is added, when hams of a very high flavour are
desired.
Ham, 14 lbs.; saltpetre, 1 oz.; coarse sugar, 3 oz.: 8 to 12 hours.
Bay-salt, 1/2 lb.; common salt, 4 oz.: 4 days. Treacle, 1 lb.: 1 month.
To heighten flavour, black pepper, 1 oz; juniper-berries, 3 oz.
TO BOIL A HAM.
When a ham has been carefully and delicately boiled, the rind
while it is still warm, may be carved in various fanciful shapes to
decorate it; and a portion of it left round the knuckle in a semi-
circular form of four or five inches deep, may at all times be easily
scollopped at the edge or cut into points (vandykes). This, while
preserving a character of complete simplicity for the dish, will give it
an air of neatness and finish at a slight cost of time and trouble. A
paper frill should be placed round the bone.
The Germans cut the ham-rind after it has been stripped from the
joint, into small leaves and similar “prettinesses,”[85] and arrange
them in a garland, or other approved device, upon its surface. In
Ireland and elsewhere, bread evenly sliced, and stamped out with
cutters much smaller than a fourpenny-piece, then carefully fried or
coloured in the oven, is used to form designs upon hams after they
are glazed. Large dice of clear firm savoury jelly form their most
appropriate garnish, because they are intended to be eaten with
them. For the manner of making this, and glaze also see Chapter IV.
85. This should be done with a confectionary or paste cutter.
The ham shown in Plate V., which follows the directions for
“Carving,” is of very good appearance; but in common English
kitchens generally, even the degree of artistic skill required to form
its decorations well, is not often to be met with.