Description:

Patina is defined as a film that is formed naturally on metal by long exposure to

the elements or artificially as by acids or oxidation and is valued aesthetically
for its color. On copper or bronze a patina tends to be either or green or blue in
color and on sterling silver gray or black.

When creating a piece of jewelry you should consider whether to patinate or oxidate
before starting work on the piece. Soldering and pickling will remove most
coloration, so create any color after you have finished all such work. If you will
only be drilling the piece, then you may feel free to patina the work at the
outset.

It is very important when preparing a piece for patination that it is cleaned

properly for coloration. The metal should be free of all oils from your hands.
Water should stand evenly on the surface and not bead up on it like raindrops on
your car after it has been waxed. To get the metal thoroughly clean, you can anneal
it, pickle it, and rinse it with water. Alternately, you can clean the metal with
pumice paste or with a glass brush. Any excess solder should be filed and cleaned
away.

PATINATING COPPER

Deep Red Patina

1. Clean both sides of your metal under running water with a wet-and-dry paper
towel.

2. Paste both sides with a flux paste – either borax flux, or a powder flux.

3. Heat the copper on one side until it glows orange. Turn it over and heat the
other side to the same color. Then quench it in water and pickle for a few minutes.

4. The copper should be a beautiful red-purple color. If it is not, simply repeat.

5. Gently polish or lightly oil the copper with either jade oil or soft beeswax.

Crvena boja bakra se -u kucnoj radiosti moze- postici samo zagrijavanjem.

Inteziteti crvene boje zavise od: cistoce bakra, duzine zagrijavanja i temperature.
Ne postoji precizna tehnologija, vec se mora eksperimentisati sa naciom
zagrijavanja. Gorionik za plinsko varenje, keramicke peci itd. Moze se komad bakra
ubaciti i u sparete sa otvorenim plamenom ili na ringli od spareta ali se ti
procesi ne mogu kontrolirati.
Prije termickog tretmana sa bakra se moraju ukloniti sve prljavstine i masnoce
(sitni smirgl, alkohol).

Blue Patina

1. Fill a small saucer with household ammonia.

2. Cover the copper salt.

3. Dampen the salt with water or vinegar.

4. Place the copper and the saucer with the ammonia with in an airtight container.
5. Allow the copper to sit for several hours to several days. Remove when the
desired coloration is reached.

Green-Blue Patina

1. Fill a sealable plastic container with either sawdust or tobacco.

2. Add enough of the following solution, one part vinegar to three parts household
ammonia, to just dampen your sawdust.

3. Clean your copper by annealing, pickling, and running under water. Let dry.

4. Place the copper in the sawdust mixture and cover completely. Seal the container
and leave for at least one hour to several days until the desire finish is reached.

Black Patina

1. Take a piece of Liver of Sulfur, about the size of your finger nail, and
dissolve it in a cup or more of warm water.

2. Heat the piece of metal to be treated and then dip in the Liver of Sulfur
solution.

3. Rinse in water after each dip until you reach your final desired color.

4. The piece may be sanded lightly and polished. Raised areas will show the
original color of the metal, recessed areas will remained blackened.

5. Be sure to wear gloves and protective clothing when working with Liver of
Sulfur. The fumes are dangerous and it should be used with good ventilation and
covered right after use. It must not be allowed to come in contact with acids as a
toxic gas is then rapidly evolved.

PATINATING SILVER

While Liver of Sulfur is usually used to form a black or gray patina on silver,
there are a number of intermediate interference colors formed, especially if a weak
solution is used. These include yellow, reddish brown, purple and blue. Some people
recommend adding a small amount of household ammonia to the solution claiming it
intensifies the lovely blue-green-red-purple interference colors one gets when
using a dilute solution and slow approach. These pretty colors are not very stable
over time because they continue to react with sulfur in the air and darken. You can
sometimes 'save' them by spraying a lacquer over them. They may be retained if the
surface is properly sealed. Acrylic resin is the recommended sealer for durability
and resistance to darkening in light. Some jeweler's lacquers also work. Envirotex®
works very well for this.

Using Liver of Sulfur on Silver

1.Take a piece of Liver of Sulfur, about the size of your finger nail, and dissolve
it in a cup or more of warm water.

2.Heat the piece of metal to be treated and then dip in the Liver of Sulfur
solution.

3.Rinse in water after each dip. While Liver of Sulfur is usually used to obtain
gray and black colors on silver, there are a number of intermediate interference
colors formed, especially if a weak solution is used. These include yellow, reddish
brown, purple and blue. Some people recommend adding a small amount of household
ammonia to the solution claiming it intensifies the lovely blue-green-red-purple
interference colors one gets when using a dilute solution and slow approach. These
pretty colors are not very stable over time because they continue to react with
sulfur in the air and darken. You can sometimes 'save' them by spraying an
appropriate lacquer over them. They may be retained if the surface is properly
sealed. Acrylic resin is the recommended sealer for durability and resistance to
darkening in light. Some jeweler's lacquers also work. Envirotex® works very well
for this.

4.The piece may be sanded lightly and polished. Raised areas will show the original
color of the metal, recessed areas will remained blackened.

5.Be sure to wear gloves and protective clothing when working with Liver of Sulfur.
The fumes are dangerous and it should be used with good ventilation and covered
right after use. It must not be allowed to come in contact with acids as a toxic
gas is then rapidly evolved.

Reference: The Jeweler's Directory of Decorative Finishes, From Enameling and

Engraving to Inlay and Granulation By Jinks McGrath

PATINATING Bakar

Duboko Crvena Patina

1. Očistite obje strane vašeg metala tekućom vodom s mokro i na suho papirnatim
ručnikom.

2. Zalijepite obje strane s toka paste - ili boraks toka, ili prah tok.

3. Toplina bakra na jednoj strani dok svijetli narančasto. Okrenite ga više i

grijati
druga strana na iste boje. Zatim ga ugasiti u vodi i turšiju za nekoliko minuta.

4. Bakra treba biti lijepa crveno-ljubičasta boja. Ako to nije, jednostavno

ponoviti.

5. Lagano poljski ili lagano ulje bakra s bilo žada nafte ili mekom pčelinjeg
voska.

Plava Patina

1. Ispunite mali tanjurić s kućanstva amonijaka.

2. Cover soli bakra.

3. Umočite soli s vodom ili octa.

4. Postavite bakra i tanjurić s amonijaka sa u hermetičan kontejner.

5. Dopustite bakar sjediti za nekoliko sati do nekoliko dana. Uklonite kada željena
obojenost je postignut.

Green-Blue Patina

1. Ispunite sealable plastičnu posudu s bilo piljevine ili duhana.

2. Dodaj dovoljno sljedećem rješenja, jedan dio octa na tri dijela kućanstva
amonijaka, samo navlažiti vaše piljevine.

3. Očistite svoj bakra po žarenja, kiseljenje, i trčanje pod vodom. Neka suha.

4. Postavite bakra u piljevine smjesu i pokriti u potpunosti. Seal posudu i

ostavite najmanje jedan sat za nekoliko dana dok se želja završiti je postignut.

Crna Patina

1. Uzmi komad jetre sumpora, o veličini prst noktiju, i otopiti ga u šalicu ili
više tople vode.

2. Zagrijte komad metala biti tretirani, a zatim umočiti u jetri sumpora rješenje.

3. Isperite vodom nakon svakog umočiti dok ne dođete do konačnog željenu boju.

4. Djelo se može brusiti olako i polirana. Povišena područja će pokazati izvornu

boju metala, uvučeni će područja ostao pocrnio.

5. Budite sigurni da nositi rukavice i zaštitnu odjeću kada se radi s jetre

sumpora. The pare su opasni i treba ga koristiti s dobrom ventilacijom i natkrivene
odmah nakon uporabe. To se ne smije dopustiti da dođe u dodir s kiselinama kao
otrovni plin onda se brzo razvijao.
******************************************************************
Cleaning Copper

To clean copper you can try a fresh cut lemon (bottled lemon juice doesn't work)
and salt. Make a slurry of the salt and lemon juice and soak the copper in it. The
copper will brighten considerably. You may need to repeat a few times if the copper
is especially dark. If you can scrub at the copper with a toothbrush dipped in the
lemon/salt mixture it will help, especially for ‘green’ areas.

Patina on Copper

Here are several different methods of patina-ing copper. The methods below are non-
hazardous but vary somewhat in their ‘icky’ factor. Chemicals to do this are widely
available, check a local paint store (not a big box hardware store but an old
fashioned paint store) if you want a chemical method.

Before you attempt to patina the copper you will want to prepare it by completely
cleaning all oils from the metal surface. I prefer a strong dish soap like Dawn or
Joy. Rinse completely and then rinse again. Use pliers or tweezers to handle the
metal as the oils from your hands will leave a residue that will affect the patina.
Dry with paper towels or a cloth towel washed without fabric softener if you want a
more even
patina.

Copper takes on patina (darkening to brown and eventually producing green scale) in
response to ammonia in the air. Try burying your copper in used cat litter for a
nice green scale. Or submerge in a glass container of urine. You can also hang the
metal in your shower for a few weeks to get a patina.

To seal the patina on copper you can use clear acrylic latex paint in a spray can.
I prefer Rustoleum as it goes on in very thin coats and doesn't dry as shiny as
other brands. Use several thin coats, allowing it to dry completely for two hours
between coats.
******************

1. ammonia and salt

2. ammonia, salt, vinegar, and lemon juice
3. vinegar and salt
4. miracle grow and water- concentrated solution
5. urine
6. dog urine
**********************************
Liver of Sulfur

You probably already know about using liver of sulfur to darken your metal jewelry
designs (copper and silver, but not so much brass). Simply make a solution of hot
water and liver of sulfur and dip your jewelry in it (or use the Midas Gel
version). You can create blues and pinks on silver and copper this way, and a
variety of other effects if you keep dipping and waiting. Add a drop of ammonia to
your liver of sulfur solution to make your results even more colorful. It's kind of
a fun experiment to see how it will turn out! Then just scrub or buff off the
excess (if you want) and you'll have dark in the recesses and shiny bright metal on
the higher points. It's a great way to enhance a texture or design in your metal.

Be sure not to mix your metals in one liver of sulfur solution, however; make one
for silver, one for copper. Or, you can mix alternative metals in Baldwin's . .

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Liver of sulfur
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Liver of Sulfur is a poorly defined mixture of potassium sulfide, potassium
polysulfide, potassium thiosulfate, and probably potassium bisulfide. Synonyms
include hepar sulfuris, sulfur, sulfurated potash and sulfurated potassa.
Liver of sulfur is mainly used in metalworking to form a patina, turning copper
alloys brown or black.
Typically liver of sulfur comes in a dry rock form which must be broken into
smaller pieces and dissolved in hot water for use.
Contents [hide]
1 Lump form
2 Gel form
3 Medical use
4 References
5 External links
*********************************************

Alcohol Ink Method

Adirondack Alcohol Inks can be used to color copper. In my opinion, this is not
really a patina, but I wanted to mention it in this article as a fun way to add
color to your metal. You can find a good video tutorial by Tim Holtz at the
following address: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-KbNWkzZFQg. Mr. Holtz
demonstrates the use of the inks on paper, but indicates they are also suitable for
metal and I have enjoyed playing with these. The inks come in 28 colors and I have
had good luck finding them at the local chain craft store.
The photo below on the left shows a blend of three colors, stream, butterscotch and
wild plum. The photo on the right shows a flower in wild plum and a disk done in
stream. I regret it is difficult to see the color on the disc. I highly recommend
that you seal any copper colored with alcohol inks.

This search for color on copper has been fun. Although it started with considerable
frustration at the various things I tried that failed in my environment, I’m
pleased that I didn’t give up. It is possible that what didn’t work for me will
work for you and vice versa. The trick for me has been to repeat a process enough
times that I can replicate any positive effect. The opposite is also true: I’ve
tried to repeat a process that didn’t work for me enough times with slight variable
modification to be sure it really doesn’t work for me. I hope you will do the same.
By the way, there is one particular method I left out – the natural method. There’s
nothing wrong with leaving the copper alone and letting nature take its course. If
you select this method, please be patient since things happen over time. If you
don’t care to be patient, try one of the methods described herein and look forward
to being surprised.
******************************************

recept za hemijsko frezovanje

Papwiel Said:
"I always store the 3 ingredients separate, and only mix as required, (i.e. ⅓ HCL
(hydrochloric acid), ⅓ H2O2 (peroxide) and ⅓ H20 (water))."

His Third Ingedant is WATER!

If your using a Strong Hydrogen Peroxide, than thats OK.

But if your using the normal 3% Hydrogen Peroxide, Don't add water.
It will Reduce the amount that you can etch.

Use 1/3 Hydrochloric Acid and 2/3 Hydrogen Peroxide.

***********************
Immerse copper board in solution and agitate until etching action is completed.
Ferric Chloride can etch up to a maximum of 100g of copper per liter of solution
(.33 square meters or 3.5 square feet of 1 oz copper clad board).

Etching process can be sped up by heating the solution to a temperature no higher

than 55°C (135°F).

If you require further directions for etching or making a printed circuit board,
consult the positive photofabrication process guide available free from your
dealer.

*************************************
Ferric Chloride or Muriatic Acid + Hydrogen Peroxide for etching?
Ingredients: The Starter Etchant

For the starter etchant itself, you only need two ingredients: hydrochloric acid
and hydrogen peroxide.

(OK, actually three. But the third one's copper. See the chemistry section for an
explanation.)
Hydrochloric (muriatic acid, "pool acid", etc.) is available at a hardware store.
The acid I got is 31.45% (or 10M) and should run around $5 per gallon. Which is
more than you'll ever, ever need.

The peroxide is normal 3% for mouthwash or cleaning cuts, and can be bought at a
drug store for $2-3 for a big bottle.

You'll also need a non-metallic container that fits your PCB and two standardized
measuring cups.

As long as you're in the hardware store, pick up some acetone if you don't already
have some. It's useful for removing the etch resist. (That's for another
instructable.)
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+++++++++++++
Patiniranje bakra

Crvena boja bakra se -u kucnoj radiosti moze- postici samo zagrijavanjem.

Inteziteti crvene boje zavise od: cistoce bakra, duzine zagrijavanja i temperature.
Ne postoji precizna tehnologija, vec se mora eksperimentisati sa naciom
zagrijavanja. Gorionik za plinsko varenje, keramicke peci itd. Moze se komad bakra
ubaciti i u sparete sa otvorenim plamenom ili na ringli od spareta ali se ti
procesi ne mogu kontrolirati.
Prije termickog tretmana sa bakra se moraju ukloniti sve prljavstine i masnoce
(sitni smirgl, alkohol).

Plava Patina

Plava patina kod bakra se postize sa amonjakom HN3 i kuhinjskom soli. Amonojek se
moze naci u prodavnicama na odjelu za hemijska sredstva za ciscenje stakla.
U nedostatka industrijskog amonijaka mozese koristiti i mokraca.
Proces patiniranja.

Priprema posude

1. Ispunite mali tanjurić s kućanstva amonijaka.

2. Cover soli bakra.

3. Umočite soli s vodom ili octa.

4. Postavite bakra i tanjurić s amonijaka sa u hermetičan kontejner.

5. Dopustite bakar sjediti za nekoliko sati do nekoliko dana. Uklonite kada željena
obojenost je postignut.