Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Italian Womens Experiences With American Consumer Culture 1945 1975 The Italian Mrs Consumer Jessica L Harris Full Chapter
Italian Womens Experiences With American Consumer Culture 1945 1975 The Italian Mrs Consumer Jessica L Harris Full Chapter
Italian Women’s
Experiences with American
Consumer Culture,
1945–1975
The Italian Mrs. Consumer
Jessica L. Harris
Italian and Italian American Studies
Series Editor
Stanislao G. Pugliese
Hofstra University
Hempstead, NY, USA
This series brings the latest scholarship in Italian and Italian American
history, literature, cinema, and cultural studies to a large audience of
specialists, general readers, and students. Featuring works on modern
Italy (Renaissance to the present) and Italian American culture and society
by established scholars as well as new voices, it has been a longstanding
force in shaping the evolving fields of Italian and Italian American Studies
by re-emphasizing their connection to one another.
Editorial Board
Rebecca West, University of Chicago
Josephine Gattuso Hendin, New York University
Fred Gardaphé, Queens College, CUNY
Phillip V. Cannistraro†, Queens College and the Graduate School, CUNY
Alessandro Portelli, Università di Roma “La Sapienza”
William J. Connell, Seton Hall University
Italian Women’s
Experiences with
American Consumer
Culture, 1945–1975
The Italian Mrs. Consumer
Jessica L. Harris
St. John’s University
Queens, NY, USA
This Palgrave Macmillan imprint is published by the registered company Springer Nature
Switzerland AG.
The registered company address is: Gewerbestrasse 11, 6330 Cham, Switzerland
To Granny Vee, Uncle Bucky, and Aunt Annette
Acknowledgments
I have many people to thank for the roles they have played in this project,
which began during my PhD studies. I would like to thank my dissertation
committee members Brenda Stevenson, Geoffrey Symcox, Kathryn
Norberg, Robin D. G. Kelley, and John A. Agnew for their support, guid-
ance, and the time they dedicated to this project. Professors Norberg,
Kelley, and Agnew gave me invaluable insight, advice, and suggestions.
Professors Symcox and Stevenson supported this project from the very
beginning and helped shape it into a broader and more diverse narrative.
Professor Symcox’s personal accounts of being in Italy during the time
period under study provided me with important insight into Italian cul-
ture at that time, and the stories were also a delight to listen to. I have
been working with Professor Stevenson for over ten years now, from when
I first entered UCLA’s Afro-American Studies Master’s program. During
these years, she has been a true mentor and has shaped the scholar that I
have become. I cannot thank her enough for this.
The research for this project was conducted in Italy, and I am grateful
to the archivists and librarians in Milan, Rome, and Pieve Santo Stefano
who assisted me with my research. In Rome, the staff at the Fondazione
Istituto Gramsci helped me with Noi Donne. In Milan, the librarians at the
Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense and the Biblioteca Palazzo Sormani, in
particular the deposito esterno, helped me with understanding the Italian
library system, as well as with my research on the numerous magazines
consulted at their libraries. I also am grateful to the archivists, in particular
Tiziano Chiesa, and the staff at the Fondazione Arnoldo e Alberto
vii
viii ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Part I 25
Part II 87
xi
xii Contents
8 Conclusion219
Index227
List of Figures
xiii
xiv List of Figures
living, and that would eventually become the fifth largest industrial power
in the world.2 This economic, social, and cultural transformation was so
rapid, so great, and so unexpected that it became known as the economic
miracle.
Italy’s economic miracle lasted from 1958 to 1963, during which the
country’s GNP had an annual average increase of 6.3 percent. The indus-
trial sector’s increased production and particularly exports to other mem-
bers of the European Economic Community (EEC) were key to this
growth.3 Italy’s per capita income between 1950 and 1970 “grew more
rapidly than in any other European country: from a base of 100 in 1950
to 234.1 in 1970, compared to France’s increase from 100 to 136 in the
same period, and Britain’s 100 to 132.”4 In addition to increased indus-
trial production and rising incomes, other important factors that charac-
terized the economic miracle included mass migration from South to
North and from rural to urban areas, the government construction of
important infrastructural works, such as highways, and the development
of a consumer-based Italian society.5
Although the “miracle” was not uniform throughout the entire coun-
try, with the South not experiencing the same industrial and economic
changes, and not reaping the same financial benefits as the North, the
country became more connected in this period than ever before.
Transportation and communication developments facilitated the move-
ment of people, goods, and ideas thereby allowing the social and cultural
changes that accompanied the economic transformation to more easily
spread south.
One of the most notable changes in Italy, that is visible in Milano così,
was the development and growth of a mass consumer-based society.
Postwar American financial assistance to and cultural influence on Italy
played a large part in this development. This was primarily due to the dra-
matically different outcomes for the United States and Italy at the end of
the Second World War. On one end of the spectrum lay the United States,
which emerged as one of the two new superpowers along with the Soviet
Union. Domestically, the American economy rapidly expanded. For exam-
ple, the federal budget increased “from about $9 billion in 1939 to $100
billion by 1945, elevating the GNP from $91 to $166 billion” and between
1946 and 1960 the GNP more than doubled. Overall, Americans were
earning more and consuming more than before the war.6 The expansion
of the economy led to the increased presence and importance of mass
consumerism in the country, thus making the United States a mass
1 INTRODUCTION: ITALY AND THE ARRIVAL OF MRS. CONSUMER 3
During the years under study, 1945–1975, the Cold War was in full
swing, with the United States seeking to prevent the spread of Communism
across the globe and the demise of the capitalist, democratic West by
actively intervening both overtly and covertly in various places around the
world. Italy, a crucial piece in the Cold War puzzle, was one of the coun-
tries where the United States exercised its power in order to shape the
country in America’s image. The country’s strong Communist presence
(Italy had the largest Communist party in Western Europe) and its con-
nection to the Soviet Union alarmed US officials, making it necessary for
the United States to exert a strong influence over Italy. As such, the United
States provided financial assistance, political support to the conservative
Christian Democratic Party (DC), and cultural products and models to
Italy that represented consumer capitalist democracy.
Financially, Italy received a total of $5.5 billion between 1944 and
1954 from the United Nations Relief and Rehabilitation Administration
(UNRRA), in which the United States played a leading role, Interim Aid,
the Marshall Plan, and Mutual Security military aid.12 Moreover, by the
Marshall Plan’s end in 1952, Italy was its third major recipient, coming
after only Britain and France.13 Politically, in the lead up to Italy’s crucial
1948 parliamentary elections to determine the composition of its new
constituent assembly, the United States supported the DC in order to
prevent the Italian Communist Party (PCI) from earning a victory. For
example, the United States awarded Italy a $100 million export-import
loan after DC leader Alcide De Gasperi’s visit to the United States, and
American ships that arrived on Italian shores with much needed material
goods and food were accompanied by US Ambassador James Dunn’s
speeches promoting “America, the Free World, and, by implication, the
Christian Democrats.”14
Culturally, American commodities sent to Italy became important
devices for articulating American democratic consumer capitalist con-
cepts—individualism, freedom of choice, and prosperity—that contrasted
with the Soviet Union’s Communist ethos, which included collectivism
and material deprivation. The US government played a large role in
spreading American culture via agencies, such as the Congress for Cultural
Freedom and the United States Information Agency, which distributed
American literature throughout Europe, and funded magazines produced
by European intellectuals whose scholarship maintained a pro-American
stance.15 Although not directed by the government, the exportation of
American consumer products and their attendant democratic, capitalist
1 INTRODUCTION: ITALY AND THE ARRIVAL OF MRS. CONSUMER 5
The First World War was the decisive event that changed the nature of the
relationship between the United States and Europe that had characterized
the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. In this period, Europe was
the superior partner in the relationship. But, with the fighting of the war
on European soil and the late entry of the United States (the United
States did not officially join the war until 1917), Europe was devastated
while the United States was left practically unscathed. As the European
nations were faced with the task of rebuilding, the United States was able
to continue on the path of industrialization, urbanization, and moderniza-
tion that had begun at the turn of the twentieth century and that prom-
ised to increase America’s standing on the world stage.
As a result, after the First World War, the United States became the
world’s leading economic producer due to the spread of important devel-
opments in industrial production spearheaded by Henry Ford and
Frederick Winslow Taylor before the war, such as the assembly line, scien-
tific management, and standardization, throughout American work-
places.17 In addition to raising the United States’ global economic position,
these developments allowed for companies to mass produce goods—in
larger numbers, in a shorter amount of time, and at a better cost to both
producer and consumer—which, in turn, led to the emergence of a new
mass commercial culture in the States. New technologically advanced and
more affordable products, such as the radio, car, and Hollywood films,
were produced and proliferated throughout American society. So too did
new forms of leisure—sports, dance halls, and amusement parks. These
consumer products and ways of enjoying life embodied the prosperity and
spirit of fun characteristic of the so-called Roaring Twenties.
More importantly, this commercial culture offered new social and cul-
tural experiences to groups of Americans who previously had been par-
tially or completely excluded from participating in nineteenth-century
American commercial society. This was particularly true for women, espe-
cially of the middle and working classes, who had the doors to a more
open and less regulated commercial public sphere opened to them for the
first time. Because of this opportunity, a markedly different woman
emerged—the Modern Girl. This woman was distinct from her earlier
counterparts in that she was independent, publicly visible, urban, fashion-
able, and immersed in the burgeoning commercial and consumer
1 INTRODUCTION: ITALY AND THE ARRIVAL OF MRS. CONSUMER 7
How did Italian women respond to the new culture, its products, and
the different lifestyle it promoted? In memoirs and oral histories of Italian
women who lived during the period examined for the book,23 the arrival
of American consumer products and culture represents a marked differ-
ence from their lives during the war and in the immediate postwar period.
The increased availability and abundance of refrigerators, televisions,
washing machines, and other modern products coming from the United
States were dramatically different from the poverty and scarcity in which
they had lived or were still living. As such, the women express a recogni-
tion of America as bringing modernity and a better standard of living
made possible through the acquisition of these goods.
American consumer products and culture had both a physical and men-
tal impact on these women in a variety of arenas and ways, as well as in
varying degrees depending on their class status and geographical location,
such as city or countryside. Italian women who were among the first to
purchase these “goods of modernity” experienced an immediate change
to their daily lives. For women who were not able to immediately acquire
them, the presence of these products in stores as well as their promotion
in magazines, in the press, and above all, in American films, oriented them
to aspire to purchase them and engage in the so-called “American way of
life.” Overall, the products and institutions challenged traditional and
contemporary notions regarding women’s societal roles and transformed
the ways in which these women styled themselves and their homes,
shopped, and ultimately, how they identified themselves.
In this book, when discussing Italian women, I am referring to those
primarily of the urban upper middle, middle, and working classes. The
consumer products and institutions examined in this book—popular
weekly women’s magazines, the refrigerator, the department store, and
beauty and hygiene products—were targeted at women from these social
classes. While women from the first two classes were able to purchase the
goods relatively soon after their arrival in Italy, working-class women’s
acquisition of American consumer modernity occurred later due to their
limited financial resources. Despite this restriction, these women were
nonetheless influenced by the images of the “American way of life” that
permeated their daily lives. Geographically, Italy’s growing urban centers,
especially those in the North such as Milan, were the first places in the
country to undergo the postwar modernization process, including the sig-
nificant cultural and social transformations that American mass consumer
capitalism engendered. Therefore, Italian women living and/or working
1 INTRODUCTION: ITALY AND THE ARRIVAL OF MRS. CONSUMER 11
in the country’s main northern cities were the first to be exposed to the
new cultural models and products. Furthermore, they were the first to
confront and deal with the challenges and opportunities that American
consumer culture created.
While women living in rural areas or the South were exposed to the
culture later than their northern urban counterparts, those women who
migrated north encountered American consumer culture much sooner.
Significant migration of southern Italians to the North to work in the
country’s burgeoning industrial sector occurred in this postwar period,
marking one of the most significant population shifts in Italy’s history.
And these southern migrants’ labor fueled the economic miracle and the
country’s dramatic transformation.
This book examines multiple areas of influence, divided into two cate-
gories: first, the models of consumption—American-style glossy maga-
zines and American-style shopping at department stores and supermarkets;
and second, the actual objects of consumption—fashion, refrigerators,
beauty and hygiene products—and how women came into contact with
these new models and products, whether it be through advertisements or
fairs. Furthermore, this book also analyzes the ways in which these objects
and models were promoted to Italian women. Looking at the presence
and discussion of American female consumer culture in various areas of
Italian print media, such as in women, domestic appliance trade, and culi-
nary magazines, as well as examining archival material of Italian companies
(Arnoldo Mondadori Editore and La Rinascente) that were at the fore-
front of the country’s economic miracle, illustrates the breadth and com-
plexity of American female consumer culture’s presence in postwar Italy.
These sources lend insight into the effect that this culture wanted to have
on Italian women in both the public and private spheres. The other sources
examined in this book, memoirs and oral histories of Italian women, pro-
vide a reality check to this desired effect.
Americanization or Italianization?
American female consumer culture entered Italy through various ave-
nues—print media, films and television, stores, and trade fairs, for exam-
ple—in the postwar period. Whereas US companies sent their products to
Italy, as did cosmetic manufacturers Max Factor and Elizabeth Arden,
Italian entrepreneurs also played an important role in bringing American
consumer culture to Italy and introducing it to the country’s women. This
12 J. L. HARRIS
Italy, laying the foundation for changes to Italian women’s cultural and
social identities.
Chapter 3, “How to Shop and Dress like Mrs. Consumer: Rebuilding
La Rinascente the American Way,” explores the presence of American
retail models in the postwar reconstruction and modernization of the
Italian department store, La Rinascente. The department store was a site
of consumption that had women at the center; they were the main cus-
tomers, as well as the primary employees. In this sense, this commercial
institution was indeed a “ladies’ paradise.”28 This chapter provides an in-
depth look at the reconstruction of La Rinascente’s flagship store located
in Milan’s Piazza del Duomo. In 1943, this store, along with much of
Milan, was nearly completely destroyed by Allied bombing. La Rinascente’s
managers, Umberto and Cesare Brustio and Aldo Borletti, like Mondadori,
used the United States, in particular its modern department stores, as the
source of inspiration and as a model for rebuilding the Milan store. They
incorporated multiple characteristics of the department stores they visited
during a research trip to the United States taken in the fall of 1948 into
the newly rebuilt store. These characteristics included interior design
schemes, exterior decorative and architectural styles, department layouts,
and modern technology, such as air conditioning and the escalator, all
coming from the United States. They also implemented a new customer
service method they observed in the United States—“going to the cus-
tomer”—or in other words, putting the customer first and catering to her
every need.
American influence did not solely exist in the store’s layout, interior
decorations, and exterior appearance, but in the products for sale as well.
La Rinascente prominently featured American merchandise, including
American cosmetics and the latest, most modern trend in fashion:
American designed and inspired mass-produced ready-to-wear garments.
The Brustios and Borletti were responsible for bringing American con-
sumer products to Italian women and teaching them how to comprare
all’americana (to shop and buy the American way), in effect transforming
Italian women’s shopping bags and experiences.
La Rinascente’s directors incorporated these American aspects, but
combined it with Italian “intuition and taste,” maintaining a certain itali-
anità (Italian character) and making the store appealing to Italian prefer-
ences. The directors’ adaptations of the modern American department
store resulted in La Rinascente’s financial success in the postwar period,
1 INTRODUCTION: ITALY AND THE ARRIVAL OF MRS. CONSUMER 17
rendering the store one of the postwar Italian symbols of rebirth, a symbol
that had American consumer modernity at its core.
Part II—Chaps. 4 and 5—looks at important US commodities present
in postwar Italian consumer culture, namely the refrigerator, cosmetics,
and hygiene products. It analyzes the products’ messages and models pro-
moted to Italian women, as well as their intended influence on Italian
women’s lives and identities. Chapter 4, “How to Shop, Store, and Cook
Food like Mrs. Consumer: The Refrigerator, Women, and the Italian
Home,” serves as a bridge between Parts I and II of this book. Examining
the arrival and diffusion of the refrigerator, an American invention, in
Italy, this chapter discusses the efforts of Giovanni Borghi, head of the
Italian domestic appliance company Ignis, to bring American modernity
to his company and its refrigerators. The first refrigerators in Italy were
American exports that were made in the United States and designed for
American homes. Thus, they were very expensive and too large for Italian
homes’ much smaller culinary spaces. Only wealthy Italians were able to
purchase this bulky and costly luxury. Recognizing that the American
model’s size and price placed the device beyond the grasp of the majority
of Italians, Borghi, as well as other Italian refrigerator manufacturers,
adapted the device to fit the Italian context. They reduced the refrigera-
tor’s size and made it more compact, so as to fit Italy’s smaller, less roomy
kitchens, and reduced the price, so as to be affordable for Italian incomes
that, although on the rise, were still lower than American earnings. In so
doing, Borghi and other manufacturers democratized these luxury con-
sumer items, making them affordable to a broader range of Italians.
This chapter also analyzes the refrigerator’s impact on the relationship
between Italian women, the home, and food. The refrigerator’s arrival in
Italy in the mid-1950s forever changed the way women shopped for food,
their traditional food preparation habits, and their domestic kitchens.
While these changes occurred, bringing Italian women into a modern and
technologically advanced world, refrigerator advertisements, articles on
the device in the popular press and industry magazines, and publicity
material that spoke to women’s relationship with the appliance, did not
always promote modern and progressive female societal roles. Instead, the
messages and images contained in this material promoted the image of the
“angel of the hearth,” the traditional casalinga (housewife), who was ded-
icated to the home, to being a mother and wife, and nothing else. In this
manner, the refrigerator assisted in reinforcing Catholic and Fascist notions
promoting traditional gender roles that tied women to the home.
18 J. L. HARRIS
evaluate the power and effect of American consumerism and its attendant
models of femininity in Cold War Italy. Chapter 6, “The Catholic and
Communist Mrs. Consumer,” examines American consumer culture’s
implications for Italy’s internal social and cultural struggle between the
PCI and the Catholic Church. Specifically, it looks at how two prominent
magazines, the Communist women’s magazine Noi Donne and the
Catholic family magazine Famiglia Cristiana, reacted to and dealt with
the growing presence of American female consumer culture, specifically
that of beauty, entertainment and celebrity, and shopping, in their readers’
lives. Noi Donne and Famiglia Cristiana made sense of the changes for
their readers and advised them on the “proper” path to modernity accord-
ing to their specific ideological orientations.
The immense popularity of American consumer culture among Italian
women represented a significant threat to Communist and Catholic influ-
ences. Both groups feared this popularity would lead to the decline in their
own popularity and authority in Italian society, making them irrelevant in
an increasingly modernizing society. The threat was so great that the social
and cultural fight for the hearts and minds of Italians became a three-way
struggle between the Communists, Catholics, and American consumer
culture, with American consumer modernity assuming the position of
shared enemy of the two Italian groups. As threatening as this new culture
was to Communist and Catholic hegemony, neither Noi Donne nor
Famiglia Cristiana could risk to completely reject American female con-
sumer culture. Thus, both publications incorporated its products, mes-
sages, and images into their pages, mediating them through Communist
and Catholic lenses in order to make them suitable for readers. Ultimately,
the two magazines promoted a modern, consuming Italian woman who
still represented core Communist or Catholic beliefs.
Chapter 7, “Were They Really Mrs. Consumers?,” analyzes the words
of ordinary Italian women as represented in memoirs and oral histories to
understand if Italian women really became the American Mrs. Consumer.
In other words, did these Italian female consumers readily adopt all of the
American female consumer models and behaviors that were introduced to
postwar Italy? By highlighting their experiences with the topics discussed
in the previous chapters—American shopping, beauty and hygiene,
domestic appliances and the home—this chapter evaluates the extent to
which these models influenced and changed their everyday lives.
Furthermore, this chapter examines the ways in which this new American
consumer culture affected how these women identified themselves. The
20 J. L. HARRIS
Notes
1. Milano così, Tv7, Rai Uno, 30/12/1963, accessed November 10, 2015,
http://www.teche.rai.it/2015/12/natale-a-milano-1963/
2. Spencer M. Di Scala (2004, 302).
3. Paul Ginsborg writes, “Above all, exports became the driving sector behind
expansion, with an average increase of 14.5 per cent per annum. The effect
of the Common Market was clear for all to see: the percentage of Italian
goods destined for the EEC countries rose from 23 per cent in 1955 to
29.8 per cent in 1960 and 40.2 per cent in 1965.” Paul Ginsborg
(2003, 214).
4. Ibid., 239.
5. In regard to migration, between 1955 and 1971, 9,140,000 Italians
migrated within the country. In Milan, in particular, approximately 70 per-
cent of migrants to the city from 1953 to 1963 were from rural locations.
Ibid., 212–219.
6. Gary Cross (2000, 84); Eric Foner (1998, 264); Mary Nolan (2012, 170).
7. Richard F. Kuisel provides a good explanation of the multifaceted postwar
US mass consumer society. He writes “America represented the coming
‘consumer society.’ This term suggested not just the mass purchase of stan-
dardized products of American origins or design such as Kodak cameras or
jeans; it also denoted a style of life that encompassed new patterns of
1 INTRODUCTION: ITALY AND THE ARRIVAL OF MRS. CONSUMER 21
spending, higher wage levels, and greater social mobility. It featured new
forms of economic organization including different kinds of industrial rela-
tions, business management, and markets. And the new consumerism
depended on different cultural values. Consumer society suggested a life
oriented around acts of purchase and a materialistic philosophy. It valued
the productive and the technical and was accompanied by the products of
the new mass culture, from Hollywood films and comic strips to home
appliances and fast food” (Richard Kuisel 1993, 3).
8. Nolan (2012, 168).
9. Ginsborg (2003, 94, 96).
10. Perry Willson (2010, 112).
11. Ibid.
12. D.W. Ellwood (1995, 34).
13. Ellwood (2012, 363).
14. Ginsborg (2003, 103, 115).
15. Francis Stonor Saunders (1999).
16. Ellwood (2012, 367, 368).
17. Regina Lee Blaszczyk (2009, 95).
18. Victoria De Grazia (1992, 203).
19. Ibid., 212.
20. Ibid.
21. Maria Antonella Pelizzari (2015, 40–41).
22. David Forgacs and Stephen Gundle (2007, 207).
23. The thirty memoirs and oral histories come from the Archivio Diaristico
Nazionale and Memoro.org/it. The main criterion for selecting the narra-
tives was year of birth, with the 1930s being the primary decade of interest,
as well as searching for key terms (boom economico (“economic boom”),
frigorifero (“refrigerator”)) related to the main topics of this book and
postwar consumerism in the databases’ search engines.
24. Ellwood (2012, 2).
25. Rob Kroes, “Americanisation: What Are We Talking About?,” in Cultural
Transmissions and Receptions: American Mass Culture in Europe, 1993, ix.
26. For more on Europe’s appropriation of American culture see Richard Pells
(1993, 1997).
27. Both Nemici per la pelle: Sogno americano e mito sovietico nell’Italia con-
temporanea (1991) and Stephen Gundle’s Between Hollywood and Moscow:
The Italian Communists and the Challenge of Mass Culture, 1943–1991
(2001) contain some information on the role of the American woman in
Italy’s Cold War struggle.
28. The term “ladies’ paradise” comes from Émile Zola’s 1883 book “The
Ladies’ Paradise” which takes place in a mid to late nineteenth-century
French department store inspired by Paris’s famous Le Bon Marché.
22 J. L. HARRIS
References
TV Programs
Milano così, Tv7, Rai Uno, 30/12/1963. http://www.teche.rai.it/2015/12/
natale-a-milano-1963. Accessed 10 Nov 2015.
Mondadori set out to make his company the leading Italian publishing
firm by modeling the company’s organization as well as its magazines’
layout, design, and content on American publishing houses and their
products. In order to achieve this goal, Mondadori, very astutely, posi-
tioned himself and his company to take advantage of the opportunities
made available to Italian businesses by the United States so as to prevent
Italy from going Communist. One such opportunity that Mondadori took
advantage of to rebuild and modernize his company and its publications
was postwar US financial support, especially that coming from the
Marshall Plan.
United States’ financial support toward European recovery had actually
begun during the war with the establishment of the United Nations Relief
and Rehabilitation Administration (UNRRA) in 1943 and continued after
the war’s end, with the United States being the largest contributor. In
regard to the funding scheme’s recipients, Italy was one of its main benefi-
ciaries.10 For example, in 1946, the country received a grant of $450 mil-
lion that “provided seventy percent of Italian food imports and forty
percent of fuel.” It also included “substantial proportions of farm, indus-
trial, and medical imports” as well as coal and cotton supplies.11 While
these early grants to Italy, and Europe in general, appeared to have had a
positive effect as countries, such as Britain and France, recovered quickly,
the harsh winter of 1947 halted this recovery. The resulting economic
downturn combined with widespread hoarding, severe unrest, and
Communist political challenges in several Western European countries
engendered serious concern among American political and military offi-
cials regarding Western Europe’s ability to defend itself against a potential
Communist seizure of power. A State Department document from 1947
illustrates the fear of a financially and socially devastated Europe being a
ripe setting for the Soviet Union to spread its influence and power through
Western Europe and across the Atlantic Ocean to the United States:
The staff does not see Communist activities as the root of the present diffi-
culties in Western Europe. It believes the crisis in large part results from the
disruptive effect of the war on the economic, political, and social structure
of Europe … The planning staff recognizes that the Communists are
2 HOW TO READ LIKE MRS. CONSUMER: MODERNIZING… 31
e xploiting the European crisis and that further Communist successes would
create serious danger to American security.12
the Walt Disney company,18 Arnoldo Mondadori informed him of the new
technology soon to be arriving at the company’s plants:
were the first to use Marshall Plan money to transform the operations of
their plants. Because of this, the plants’ technology and operations were
no longer unstandardized and de-specialized, and as a result production
began to increase.24 In many cases, Italian firms used American technology
to invigorate the production process. Furthermore, the adoption of
American management practices, such as hire purchase, market research,
job evaluation, work incentives, and productivity bonuses also had this
same effect by making production more efficient, thereby allowing for the
rapid production and increased output of products.25 Moreover, as Penny
Sparke has illustrated, the factories’ adoption of modern American tech-
niques affected the commodities being produced as products such as
Olivetti typewriters, coffee machines, and scooters had designs that
“recalled the idea of American streamlining.”26 In Mondadori’s case, the
firm’s magazines resembled the most popular American magazines in their
design. For example, its magazine Epoca, which was first published in
1950, became the first Italian magazine to use the illustrated journalism
technique popularized by Look and Life magazines.27 Therefore, American
investment in Mondadori and other Italian companies and their factories
made American culture, in the form of industrial models and products, a
growing part of Italian society.
TRUSSING.
Page
CARVING.
Page
Trussing Needles.
Before a bird is trussed, the skin must be entirely freed from any
down which may be on it, and from all the stubble-ends of the
feathers;[3] the hair also must be singed from it with lighted writing
paper, care being taken not to smoke nor blacken it in the operation.
Directions for cleansing the insides of birds after they are drawn, are
given in the receipts for dressing them, Chapters XIV. and XV.
Turkeys, geese, ducks, wild or tame, fowls, and pigeons, should all
have the necks taken off close to the bodies, but not the skin of the
necks, which should be left sufficiently long to turn down upon the
backs for a couple of inches or more, where it must be secured,
either with a needle and coarse soft cotton, or by the pinions of the
birds when trussed.
3. This should be particularly attended to.
For boiling, all poultry or other birds must
have the feet drawn off at the first joint of
the leg, or as shown in the engraving. (In
the latter case, the sinews of the joint must
be slightly cut, when the bone may be
easily turned back as here.) The skin must
then be loosened with the finger entirely from the legs, which must
be pushed back into the body, and the small ends tucked quite under
the apron, so as to be entirely out of sight.
The wings of chickens, fowls, turkeys,
and pigeons, are left on entire, whether for
roasting or boiling. From geese, ducks,
pheasants, partridges, black game, moor-
fowl, woodcocks, snipes, wild-fowl of all
kinds, and all small birds, the first two joints
are taken off, leaving but one joint on, thus:
—
The feet are left on ducks, and those of tame ones are trussed as
will be seen at page 278, and upon roast fowls, pheasants, black
and moor-game, pigeons, woodcocks, and snipes. The thick coarse
skin of the legs of these must be stripped, or rubbed off with a hard
cloth after they have been held in boiling water, or over a clear fire
for a few minutes. The sharp talons must be pulled out, and the nails
clipped. The toes of the pigeons for roasting should be cut off.
Geese, sucking-pigs, hares, and rabbits have the feet taken off at
the first joint.
The livers and gizzards are served in the wings of roast turkeys
and fowls only.
The heads are still commonly left on pheasants, partridges, and
black game and moor-game; but the fashion is declining. Of this we
shall speak more particularly in the ensuing chapter.
Poultry and birds in general, except perhaps quite the larger kinds,
are more easily trussed into plump handsome form with twine and
needles proper to the purpose (for which see page 1), than with
skewers. The manner in which the legs and wings are confined is
much the same for all; the principal difference being in the
arrangement of the former for boiling, which has already been
explained.
There is a present mode of trussing very large fowls for boiling or
stewing which to our taste is more novel than attractive. The feet are
left on, and after the skin has been loosened from them in every part,
the legs are thrust entirely into the body by means of a slight incision
made in the skin just above the first joint on the underside, the feet
then appear almost as if growing out of the sides of the breast: the
effect of this is not pleasing.
TO TRUSS A TURKEY, FOWL, PHEASANT OR PARTRIDGE, FOR
ROASTING.
First draw the skin of the neck down over the back, and secure it
from slipping up; then thread a trussing needle of convenient size,[4]
for the occasion, with packthread or small twine (the former, from
being the most flexible, is best); pass it through the pinion of the bird,
then through the thick part of the thigh, which must be brought up
close under the wing, and in a straight line quite through the body,
and through the leg and pinion on the other side; draw them close,
and bring the needle back, passing it through the thick part of the
leg, and through the second joint of the pinion, should it be left on
the bird; tie it quite tight; and then to secure the legs, pierce the
sidebone and carry the twine over the legs, then pass the needle
through the other sidebone, and tie them close down. If skewers be
used they should be driven through the pinions and the legs, and a
twine passed across the back of the bird, and caught over the points
of it, and then tied in the centre of the back: this is only needful when
the trussing is not firm.
4. These may be had, of various sizes, at any good ironmongers.
When the head is left on a bird, it may still
be trussed in the same way, and the head
brought round, as shown here, and kept in
place by a skewer passed through it, and
run through the body. When the bird is
trussed entirely with skewers, the point of
one is brought from the other side, through the pinions and the
thighs, and the head is fixed upon it. The legs are then pressed as
much as possible under the breast, between it and the side-bones,
where they are lettered a b. The partridge in the engraving is shown
with the skewers just withdrawn after being roasted.
Hares, after being filled with forcemeat, and sewn or securely
fastened up with skewers, are brought into proper roasting form by
having the head fixed between the shoulders, and either fastened to
the back by means of a long skewer, run through the head quite into
it, or by passing one through the upper part of the shoulders and the
neck together, which will keep it equally well in place, though less
thrown back. The fore-legs are then laid straight along the sides of
the hare, and a skewer is thrust through them both and the body at
the same time; the sinews are just cut through under the hind-legs,
and they are brought forward as much as possible, and skewered in
the same manner as the others. A string is then thrown across,
under the hare and over the points of both skewers, being crossed
before it is passed over the second, and then tied above the back.
The ears of a hare are left on; those of a rabbit, which is trussed in
the same way, are taken off.
Joints of meat require but little arrangement, either for the
spit or for boiling. A fillet of veal must have the flap, or part to
which the fat adheres, drawn closely round the outside, and
be skewered or bound firmly into good shape: this will apply
equally to a round of beef. The skin or flank of loins of meat
must be wrapped over the ends of the bones, and skewered
on the underside. The cook should be particularly careful to
separate the joints when it has not been done by the
butcher, and necks of veal or mutton also, or much trouble
will often arise to the carver.
Past
e To flatten and bring cutlets into
Brus uniform shape, a bat of this form is
h. used: and to egg or to cover them
with clarified butter when they are to
be crumbed, a paste-brush should Cutlet Bat.
be at hand. Indeed, these and many other
small means and appliances, ought to be
provided for every cook who is expected to perform her duty in a
regular and proper manner, for they save much time and trouble, and
their first expense is very slight; yet many kitchens are almost
entirely without them.
TO TRUSS FISH.
Salmon, salmon-peel, pike, and some few other large fish, are
occasionally trussed in the form of an S by passing a string through
the head, and tying it securely, then through the centre of the body,
and next round the tail, which should be turned the reverse way of
the head, and the whole should then be drawn closely together and
well fastened. Whitings and other fish of small size are trussed with
the tails merely skewered into their mouths. Obs.—It is
indispensable for cooks to know how to carve neatly for pies,
puddings, fricassees, and curries, at the least, hares, rabbits, fowls,
and other birds. For those who are quite without experience in this
branch of their business, the directions and the illustrations in the
next chapter for carving a fowl into joints, will be found useful; and
probably many of the other instructions also.
CARVING.
Fish Carvers.
In carving this most excellent fish, the rich gelatinous skin attached
to it, and a portion of the thick part of the fins, should be served with
every slice. If the point of the fish-knife be drawn down the centre of
the back through to the bone, in the lines a b c, and from thence to d
d d, the flesh may easily be raised upon the blade in handsome
portions,. The thickest parts of all flat fish are the best. A brill and a
John Dory are served exactly like a turbot.
SOLES.
The more elegant mode of serving these, and the usual one at
good tables, is to raise the flesh from the bones as from a turbot,
which is easily done when the fish are large; but when they are too
small well to admit of it, they must be divided across quite through
the bone: the shoulders, and thick part of the body, are the superior
portions.
No. 3. SALMON.