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18 TOOLS

A huge range of tools enables a sewer

MEASURING to measure accurately. Choosing the


correct tool for the task at hand is
important, so that your measurements

TOOLS AND are precise. The next step is to mark


your work using the appropriate
marking technique or tool. Some tools

MARKING AIDS are very specific to one job, while


others are specific to types of sewing.
TOOLS

There are many tools available to help you measure everything from the width of a seam or hem,
Measuring to body dimensions, to the area of a window. One of the most basic yet invaluable measuring
tools is the tape measure. Be sure to keep yours in good condition—once it stretches or gets
tools snipped on the edges, it will no longer be accurate and should be replaced.

METAL TAPE FOR WINDOWS 


A metal tape that can be secured
when extended is used to measure EXTRA-LONG TAPE 
windows and soft furnishings. This is usually twice the length of
a normal tape measure, at 10 ft
(300 cm) long. Use it when making
soft furnishings. It’s also useful to help
measure the length of bridal trains.

SEWING GAUGE 
A handy small tool about 6 in (15 cm) long, RETRACTABLE TAPE 
marked in inches and centimeters, with a sliding Very useful to have in your purse
tab. Use as an accurate measure for small when shopping as you never
measurements such as hems. know when you may need
to measure something!

TAPE MEASURE 
Available in various colors and
widths. Try to choose one that is
the same width as standard seam
allowance (5⁄8 in/ 1.5 cm), because
FLEXIBLE RULER  it will prove very useful.
A sturdy, flexible piece of plastic,
this is perfect to measure armholes
or curved shapes. The flexible ruler
is also used when altering patterns.

GRIDDED RULER 
This type of ruler is larger than a normal ruler
and is marked with an inch or centimeter grid.
Used together with the rotary cutter and mat,
and also for marking bias strips.
MEASURING TOOLS AND MARKING AIDS 19

Marking certain parts of your work is essential, to make sure that things like pockets and darts are
Marking placed correctly and seamlines are straight as drawn on the pattern. With some marking tools, such
as pens and a tracing wheel and carbon paper, it is always a good idea to test on a scrap of fabric
aids first to make sure that the mark made will not be permanent.

 CHALK PROPELING PENCIL


Chalk leads of different
colors can be inserted into
this propeling pencil, making
it a very versatile marking tool.
The leads can be sharpened.

DRAFTING RULER 
A plastic curved tool, also
called a pattern marking ruler,
used primarily when drafting
or altering patterns.

WATER/AIR-SOLUBLE PEN
This resembles a felt marker. Marks
made can be removed from the fabric
with either a spray of water or by leaving
to air-dry. Be careful—if you press over
the marks, they may become permanent.

TRACING WHEEL AND CARBON


PAPER 
These two items are used together to
transfer markings from a paper pattern
or a design on to fabric. Not suitable
for all types of fabric though, as marks
may not be able to be removed easily.

TAILOR’S CHALK
Also known as French chalk,
this solid piece of chalk in
either a square or triangular
shape is available in a large
CHALK PENCIL variety of colors. The chalk
Available in blue, pink, and easily brushes off fabric.
white. As it can be sharpened
like a normal pencil, it will
draw accurate lines on fabric.
20 TOOLS

There are many more accessories that can be purchased to help with

USEFUL your sewing, and knowing which products to choose and for which job
can be daunting. The tools shown here can be useful aids, although it
depends on the type of sewing that you do—dressmaking, craft work,

EXTRAS making soft furnishings, or running repairs—as to whether you would


need all of them in your sewing kit.
TOOLS

BEESWAX AWL
When hand sewing, this This sharp tool is used to make
will prevent the thread holes in fabric for eyelet insertion
from tangling, and will or for the rounded end of a
strengthen it. First draw keyhole buttonhole.
the thread through the
wax, then press the wax
into the thread by running
your fingers along it.

BIAS TAPE MAKER


Available in 1⁄2, 3⁄4, and 1 in
(12, 18, and 25 mm) widths,
TWEEZERS this tool evenly folds the edges
These can be used for removing of a fabric strip, which can then
stubborn basting stitches that be pressed to make binding.
have become caught in the machine
stitching. An essential aid to
threading the serger.

LOOP TURNER 
A thin metal rod with
a latch at the end. Use
to turn narrow fabric
tubes or to thread
ribbons through
a slotted lace.

EMERGENCY SEWING KIT LIQUID SEALANT 


All the absolute essentials to fix loose Used to seal the cut edge
buttons or dropped hems while away of ribbons and trims to
from your sewing machine. Take it prevent fraying. Also
with you when traveling. useful to seal the ends
of serger stitching.

GLUE STICK 
Similar to a glue
stick for paper, this
will hold fabric or
trims temporarily in
place until they can
be secured with
stitches. It will not
damage the fabric
or make the sewing
needle sticky.
USEFUL EXTRAS 21

COLLAR POINT TURNER 


This is excellent for pushing
out those hard-to-reach
corners in collars and cuffs.

THIMBLE 
An essential item for many sewers,
to protect the middle finger from
the end of the needle. Choose
a thimble that fits your finger
comfortably as there are many
varieties to choose from.

PLIERS
Specially designed
pliers with various heads
are used to attach grommets,
metal snaps, and rivets.

14-IN-1 MEASURE
A strange-looking tool that has
14 different measurements on
it. Use to turn hems or edges
accurately. Available in both
imperial and metric.

DRESSMAKER’S DUMMY  PATTERN PAPER 


An adjustable form that is useful when This can be plain or printed
fitting garments as it can be adjusted with dots and crosses at
to personal body measurements. regular intervals. The paper
Excellent to help in the turning up can be used for drafting
of hemlines. Available in female, male, patterns, or for altering
and children’s shapes and sizes. or tracing patterns.

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