The Way To Cook - Julia Child Final

SHE TAKES YOU INTO HER KITCHEN
AND TELLS YOU-AND SHOWS YOU-

EVERYTHING SHE KNOWS ABOUT THE
ESSENTIALS OF GOOD COOKING TODAY.
~------------------------------------ -- ~
... FPT $
( continued from front flap)
time Deviled Rabbit or Split Cornish Game

Hens Broiled with Cheese will be on your menu.
In all, there are more than 800 recipes, in-
cluding the variations-from a treasure trove of
I n th is magnificent new cookbook, illustrated

with full color throughout, Julia Child g ives
us her magnum opus -the distillation of a life-
poultry and fish recipes and a vast array of fresh
vegetables prepared in new ways to bread doughs
(that can be turned into pizzas and calzones and
hamburger buns) and delicious indulgences ,
time of cooki ng. And she has an important mes-
such as Caramel Apple Mountain or a Queen of
age for Americans today ...
Sheba Chocolate Almond Cake with Chocolate
• to the health-conscious: make a habit of good Leaves. And if you want to know how a fini shed
home cooking so that you know you are work- dish should look or how to angle your knife or to
ing wi th the best and freshest ingredients and fashion a pretty rosette on that cake, there are
ou can be in control of what goes into every more than 6 0 0 color photographs to entice and
dish. instruct you along the way.
• to the new generation of cooks who have not A one-of-a-kind, brilliant, and inspiring book ·,.
grown up with the old traditions: learn the from the incomparable Julia, which is bound to
basics and under stand what you are doing so rekindle interest in the satisfactions of good
cooking can be easier, faster, and more enjoy- home cooking.
able.
• to the more experienced cook: have fun im-
provising and creating your own versions
of traditional dishes.
• and to all of us : above all, enjoy the pleasures
of the table.
In this spirit, Julia has conceived her most

creative and instructive cookbook, blending clas-
sic techniques with free-style American cooki ng
and with added emphasis on lightness , freshness,
and simpler preparations. Breaking with con-
ventional organization, she structures the chap-
ters ( from Soups to Cakes & Cookies) around
master recipes, givi ng all the reassuring details
that she is so good at and grouping the recipes ac-
cording to method; these are followed-in short-
hand form - by innumerable variations that are
easily made once the basics are understood .
For example, make her simple but impec-
cably prepared saute of chicken, and before long
Interior of Julia's kitchen, photo by Jim S cherer
you're easily whipping up Chicken with M ush-
rooms and Cream, Chicken Provern;ale, Chicken Jacket design by Carol Devine Carson
Piperade, or Chicken Marengo. Or master
her perfect broiled butterflied chicken, and next
( continued on back flap)
~
1/
ALFRED A. KNOPF, PUBLISHER, NEW YORK
A BOOK-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB
MAIN SELECTION
I 0/89
The
Photographs by
Brian Leatart
and Jim Scherer
Food Designer
Rosemary Manell
~
1/
Alfred A. Knopf
New York 1989 .
This Is a Borzoi Book
Published by Alfred A. Knopf, Inc.
Copyright © 198 9 by Julia Child
All rights reserved under International and

Pan-American Copyright Conventions. Published in
the United States by Alfred A. Knopf, Inc . , New
York, and simultaneously in Canada by Random
House of Canada Limited, Toronto. Distributed by
Random House, Inc., New York.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Child, Julia.
The way to cook.
Includes index.
I. Cookery, French . 2. Cookery, American.
I. Title.
TX719.C455 1989 641.5 88-4583 8
ISBN 0-394-53264-3
Manufactured in the United States of America

First Edition
Foreword and Acknowledgments
The Way to Cook deri ves its title from Executive Chef for the "Dinner" niques has so often clarified my
the six one-hour videocassettes of the series and teaching cassettes was thinking, and although I speak of
same name; recipes and techniques Marian Morash, chef in her own him in television terms, his influence
therein are incorporated in this pres- right as well as "Victory Garden" has been profound in the making of
ent book, as well as those of mine chef and author of The Victory Garden this book.
from the "Dinner at Julia's" televi- Cookbook and videocassette. Cooking Working with friends like these
sion series, four years of monthly teacher, food writer, and author is one of the great pleasures in life
food articles in Parade magazine, Nancy Barr was Executive Chef for for me. We all learn from each other,
cooking segments on "Good Morning the Parade articles and "Good Morn- we eat magnificently, and we've in-
America," and other recipes and ideas ing America" appearances. variably had a wonderfully good
that I have wanted to share. Executive Associate was Eliza- time.
The cast of characters for these beth Bishop, a talented organizer and Thanks to the great generosity of
several events remains much the same, ready-for-anything friend and col- Walter Anderson, Editor of Parade,
and I speak in the plural because we league; we've worked together on we have been given the negatives and
were a close-knit team. Included as television and cooking demonstra- free use of all our Parade photo-
hardworking associate cooking and tions since the early days of "The graphs-more than six hundred of
catering friends in Santa Barbara were French Chef." Food Designer for the them. This has been a windfall of
Catherine Brandel, Ken Davis, Neil photographs in this book, as well as immense value , and I express my
Flaster, Paule McPherson, Gloria for the video cassettes, Parade articles, fond appreciation to Ira Joffe, Art
Paulsen, Linda Schwartz, Karyn Scott, and the television "Company" and Director for Parade, and David Cur-
Barbara Sims-Bell, and students from "Dinner" series, was long-time friend rier, Parade Senior Editor.
the Hotel and Restaurant Administra- Rosemary Manell , who also acted as A reference or teaching book is
tion of Santa Barbara City College. In recipe developer and proofreader. only as good as its index. This one-
Cambridge we were joined at various How fortunate I am to have been by far the most intelligent in any of
times by Tim Bunch, Jessica Clenden- given my television experience at my books-was prepared by Pat
ning, Lori Deliso , Ruth Feinberg, ABC, and I am greatly indebted to Kelly, one of the founders of The
Brett Freschette, Ave Moran, Sara Sonya Selby-Wright, my producer Culinary Historians of Boston.
Moulton, and Holly Safford. for "Good Morning America ." Her The dedication to quality of
Executive Secretary for the "Din- talents for creating a kitchen drama Judith Jones, my editor, and of the
ner" series in Santa Barbara was Bitsy in three and a half minutes are awe- Knopf staff of designers and proof-
Gordy, and for the teaching cassettes some. I am especially blessed to have readers is always impressive, as is the
was Ennan West, a.k.a. "Video Book." been wi th Public Television all these vast amount of time needed to put to-
She has also done yeoman research on yea rs at WGBH-Boston. Russ Mar- gether a complicated book like this. I
the hideous task of cross-referencing ash, our friendly ayatollah, has been have been in Judith's stable since the
the text pages for this present vol- my PBS producer almost continually beginning of my cookbook career in
ume. Home Secretary in Cambridge since the beginning of the "French the late 195 O's and cannot imagine
was and is Judith Avrett; Comptrol- Chef" days. His grasp of compli- working with anyone else. She is, in-
ler for all enterprises, Ron Bredesen. cated culinary problems and tech- deed, a peerless editor and friend.
Introduction
Attitudes about food have changed and so on. Wherever possible, I have simmered on top of the stove, but it
since the 1960's when my first book put things together by method-veal can also be braised with wine or
came out. More and more of us have chops are with pork chops because broiled. Thus, you have master reci-
less time to shop and cook, and we they cook the same way. Chicken stew pes that suit your particular fish-of-
are becoming more health conscious in red wine is with turkey-wing ra- the-day, some of them simple, quick ,
and more aware of what is in our gout and rabbit stew-if you can do and easy, others more elaborate or
food. That very awareness is the best one, you can do the others because fussy or formal. The point is that
of all reasons for learning The Way to they are assembled, simmered, and whether whole, filleted, or cut into
Cook. sauced the same way. It makes sense steaks , all fish that cook the same way
While attitudes about food have to me, also, that all braised meats be are grouped together. That's the way
changed through these last years, for- grouped together so that their simi- one learns to cook.
tunately the principles of good cook- larities are clearly evident. And since New ideas and treatments. Besides
ing have not. The more one knows you can boil-steam butternut squash the fundamentals, I have included
about it, the less mystery there is, the in the same way you boil-steam car- many new ideas of my own. The all-
faster cooking becomes, and the eas- rots, pearl onions, and green peas, I purpose soup bases are an example,
ier it is to be creative and to embrace have grouped them together also. You where you start out with onions and
new trends and ideas-in addition, use the same base for clam chowder chicken stock pureed with cooked
the more pleasure one has in the as you do for corn or fish chowder, rice to make a fat-free cream soup;
kitchen. and that base can also be used for a with the addition of other items, you
I am aiming this, my seventh fish casserole; they, too, are a group. turn it into chicken soup, a cucumber
book, at the new generation of cooks The technique is what's important soup, a broccoli soup, and so forth.
who have not grown up in the old here, and when you realize that a Or take the veloute soup base, which
traditions, yet who need a basic stew is a stew is a stew, and a roast is can be, among others, a chicken soup
knowledge of good food so that they a roast whether it be beef, lamb, but also a mushroom soup, or a cur-
may enjoy fresh, healthy home cook- pork, or chicken, cooking begins to ried onion or fish soup.
ing. It is also directed to those who make sense. A vast array offresh vegetables.
would like to cook but who have A guide to fish cookery. What to do Vegetables can be the glory of any
never dared even to string a fresh with a trout, for instance. Look it up meal when lovingly cooked . Here
green bean. It is aimed, too, at old- in the index under T for Trout and they get that same treatment of to-
timers who will find some new ideas you'll see that it can be sauteed getherness-broccoli, Brussels
here and certainly a new approach. whole, as can any small fish. If it's sprouts, green beans, and spinach-
A grouping by techniques. I have larger, it can be braised or roasted they're all green, they can all get a
broken with the conventional organi- whole, as can any large fish. It can be preliminary blanching in a large
zation of a cookbook, where all lamb filleted, then simmered on top of the quantity of boiling water so that they
is together in one section and all beef stove in lightly salted water, or will remain green and beautiful for
in another, all carrots or salmon or poached with wine in the oven, or it serving. Full-flavored winter
game hens in their separate places, can be turned into a mousse. How squashes and root vegetables, which
about a shark steak? That, too , can be
x INTRODUCTION
are so good to eat but usually take so explanation of how to hold the pastry up the chicken juices with a chopped
long to cook, are ready to serve in a bag when you squeeze out the me- scallion or shallot, a dollop of
matter of minutes when grated and ringue, how to grasp the spinach leaf chicken broth and perhaps another of
saute-steamed, and they all cook the as you peel off the stem, how to angle wine. It's a perfect dish, yet it is sim-
same way-from beets and rutabagas the razor as you slash the dough for a plicity itself, and while it's cooking,
to carrots and winter squash. Leeks, loaf of French bread. With this which takes less than half an hour
endives, and celery are prime candi - book, you don't have to turn it upside from start to finish, you prepare the
dates for braisi ng, while many a down to see where you place your rest of the meal.
stuffed vegetable does well using the hands because the photographs here Most of the master recipes in-
same technique. Of course, there are are taken from the cook's point of clude ideas for what to serve. You
beans and lentils, chestnuts and view, exactly as you yourself are look- might accompany the preceding
sauerkraut, as well as vegetable mixing at the chicken when you truss it, chicken, for instance, with the easy-
tures that can make a whole main or at the fish fillet when you score it. to-make broiled tomatoes Proven-
course. Food photography is a specialized c;ale-stuffed with fresh bread
New ways with turkey, goose, and art, and I have been blessed by work- crumbs and herbs, and sprinkled
duck . I've had fun fooling around ing with two of the best in the busi- with olive oil-on page 306. French
with turkeys, from the conventional ness, Jim Scherer in Boston and bread, a green salad, and either a
whole roasted bird to butterflied tur- Brian Leatart in southern California. simple white or red wine would make
key, dis-assembled and re-assembled L earn the way to cook by starting this a fine main course.
turkey, almost boneless turkey laid simple. If you are a beginning cook, You are becoming a cook. After
back to roast on its stuffing , turkey don't try to be too elaborate at first. doing the chicken another time or
hash, and tu rkey stew. Duck and Concentrate on the main course with, two, it's part of your repertoire, you
goose make marvelous eating with perhaps, a chicken saute. There are know it by instinct, and you can start
their full-flavored meat, but they certain simple but all-important steps playing around with the variations.
need special treatment because of the to follow, such as drying off the The little deglazing sauce, too, is
fat problem ; I have devised a system chicken parts before they go into the part of you, and you will be using
of steam-roasting which renders out pan so that they will brown rather that same technique with meat, fish,
fat to give a crisp skin, yet tender, than steam and, for the same reason, and vegetables for the rest of your
succulent flesh . Besides roasting leaving enough air space between cooking life. You gradually build up
whole, duck offers many enticing pieces. You keep the heat just right so your knowledge and confidence as
possibilities, especially when the the pieces will color nicely without well as your store of techniques, and
breast is done one way and the legs burning , and you turn them so they you begin feeling that you really are
another, including a stir-fry, a con.fit, will brown evenly before you cover on the way to becoming a cook.
and duckburgers. the pan and finish the cooking. Dinner in half an hour? Even if
Photographs to complete the text. A When is the chicken done? Tim- you're working all day, why buy Chi-
picture is , indeed , worth a thousand ing will g ive you an estimate, but nese take-out food, or frozen din-
words, especially when you are what are the real indications? You feel ners, or eat at a fast-food joint when
trying out something new like the it with your impeccably clean fin- you can make a fresh, informal
duck pate enclosed in its own skin on ger-cooking is pleasurably tactile. home-cooked meal even in a minu-
page 2 54-and we have more than The flesh is springy to the touch; you scule kitchen-and you will know
six hundred color photographs in this pierce it with a sharp-pronged fork to exactly what you are eating. Pour out
book . How to make it and how is the examine its juices-they run clear a glass of wine, and while you're gos-
finished di sh suposed to look ? In ad- yellow. It's done! You arrange the siping about the day and trimming
dition, you not only want to read chicken on hot plates or a platter, the fish fillets, a big pot of water can
about splitting a cake in half, you pour the fat out of the pan, and right be set to boil for skinning the toma-
also want to see it. You need a visual in that same pan, you make your de- toes and blanching the green beans.
licious little deglazing sauce , boiling Perhaps you'll get some help snap-
ping the ends off those beans and pre-
paring the salad greens, too. While
INTRODUCTION x1
the fish has its short sojourn in the Moderation and variety. In this disciplined rationing. Thus, with
oven, you're all but ready for dinner book, I am very conscious of calories these items high up and almost out of
and everyone is refreshed and happy. and fat, and the major proportion of reach, we are ever conscious that they
Dessert can be cheese and fruit, or the master recipes are low in fat or are not everyday foods. They are for
ice cream or sherbet from the freezer, even fat-free. Listings of low-calorie special occasions, and when that occa-
. .
and you've an easy, satisfying meal. and low-fat recipes are in the index. s10n comes we can enJoy every
Those long-simmered stews and For healthy eating, know your- mouthful.
braises need not be saved for week- self and those you cook for regu- Servings indicated in the recipes
end rainy days because they can be larly-which means knowing enough are for conventional amounts, but for
cooked in stages, as indicated in each about their backgrounds to determine all of us it's sensible, indeed, to make
of the recipes. You want a beef stew, their nutritional requirements as to a habit of smaller helpings. I, for
for instance; brown the meat one fat, salt, sugar, and other dietary one, would much rather swoon over
morning while having breakfast or needs. I do think a general weekly a few thin slices of prime beefsteak,
while preparing tonight's dinner, intake count is more sensible and or one small serving of chocolate
then simmer it in wine and aromatic more easily managed than a strict mousse, or a sliver of foie gras than
vegetables during another meal. The daily one; then you can afford a guilt- indulge to the full on such nonentities
next day or the day after, it needs less indulgence on Tuesday, for in- as fat-free gelatin puddings.
only rewarming and final flavoring stance, knowing you must pay for it Final words. The pleasures of the
while you ready the accompaniments, on Wednesday and Thursday. Most table-that lovely old-fashioned
such as boiled noodles for sopping up authorities agree that the right diet phrase-depict food as an art form,
the sauce and steamed broccoli sau- consists of moderation in all things as a delightful part of civilized life.
teed with garlic. You now have an- and a great variety of foods; add to In spite of food fads , fitness pro-
other satisfying, home-cooked main this weight-watching, exercise, and grams, and health concerns, we must
course, and it takes but a few min- picking your grandparents-mean- never lose sight of a beautifully con-
utes, once the preliminaries have ing that you inherit your family's ceived meal.
been staged. health history. Moderation includes
Plan ahead for company, too. everything from pates and pickles J.C.
You are preparing a frozen dessert to vitamins and fibrous cure-alls; Cambridge, Massachusetts
over the weekend, perhaps. Double overdosing on anything brings 1989
the recipe and keep one batch in the trouble.
freezer. Or make double the usual Fear offood, indulgences, and
amount of pie-crust dough when you small helpings. Because of media hype
are doing a fast batch in your food and woefully inadequate information,
processor. Turn the extra into the too many people nowadays are deathly
quick mock puff pastry on page 3 92; afraid of their food, and what does
cut it into shapes and freeze them . fear of food do to the digestive sys-
When you need an especially dressy tem? I am sure that an unhappy or
finale, pop them from freezer to suspicious stomach, constricted and
oven, and they'll be puffed and uneasy with worry, cannot digest
brown in the few minutes it takes you properly. And if digestion is poor,
to hull the strawberries and whip the the whole body politic suffers.
cream for the chic little dessert pic- An imaginary shelf labeled IN-
tured on the same page. Or cut the DULGENCES is a good idea. It con-
pastry into disks and freeze them for tains the best butter, jumbo-size
the almost instant apple tarts on page eggs, heavy cream, marbled steaks,
43 2. When you know the way to sausages and pates, hollandaise and
cook, you can produce wonders in butter sauces, French butter-cream
minutes. fillings, gooey chocolate cakes, and
all those lovely items that demand
._/
10 378
Contents
vii Foreword and 3 soups 1)1

~ 493 Index
Acknowledgments
)
)
35 Breads _,.
ix Introduction
61 Eggs •
xiii A Short Note
Ingredients and 79 Fin Fish & Shellfish ~◄
Equipment
135 Poultry '¥
189 Meat ~
267 Vegetables iii

111
347 Salads ~
379 Pastry Doughs .. _ ..
413 Desserts JI\
455 Cakes & Cookies =
SAXOt--InURG ;\REA UBRAR_x

SAXUNBUKG, PA J605Q /
A Short Note
Ingredients and Equipment
Ingredients. With the probable excep- Equipment. I am assuming you

tion of fresh foie gras, which appears have a food processor, stoves and
only once, all the ingredients called ovens that perform as they should,
for here can be found in any well- pots and pans of acceptable quality,
equipped American supermarket. It and knives that are sharp. If you are
is obvious to anyone who is interested new to the game, ask advice from the
in food that you choose the freshest best cooks in town.
and finest-which does not mean the Microwaving. I wouldn't be
most expensive, just the best, what- without my microwave oven, but I
ever it may be. If you do not find the rarely use it for real cooking. I like
right quality for a dish you had having complete control over my
planned on, change gears, and pick food-I want to turn it, smell it,
another recipe. poke it, stir it about, and hover over
its every state. Although the micro-
wave does not let me participate fully,
I do love it for rewarming, defrost-
ing, and sometimes for starting up or
finishing off. However, I know how
popular microwave ovens have be-
come and that many people adore
them. I'm delighted to see, therefore,
a growing number of excellent books
on the subject available in supermar-
kets and bookstores.
'!"
l.\ ._ , ,.~ • :·· :
·soups
Chicken Soups,
Vegetable Soups,
Low-Fat Cream Soups
Oxtail Soup, French Onion Soup
Chowders and
Mediterranean Fish Soups
Garlic, Pistou, Pumpkin,

and Tripe and Bean Soups
Soup for elegant first courses, soup more milk, cream, or stock, and soup is for the thrifty cook-it solves
for lunch, supper soups, main-course imagination. the ham-bone and lamb-bone prob-
soups-almost every kind of a soup Imagination and a number of the lems, the everlasting Thanksgiving
is here. But no cold soups? No, no basic springboards are what this turkey, the extra vegetables. In addi-
recipes for cold soups-except for a chapter aims to present, with its tion, soup is a most attractive and nu-
Cucumber Fool, a Chilled Water- theme and variations, and its soup tritious way to take the edge off
cress Soup, and the usual Vichyssoise, bases that act as building blocks. It is insatiable youthful appetites. Now, to
since almost any soup can be served my hope that you will draw from it a start out with the mother family of
cold with the addition of a little. solid background for making up your them all, _chicken soup.
own combinations.
And what a marvelous resource
4 J ULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK
THE CHICKEN SOUP

FAMILY
I n the old days of a chicken in

every pot, all households pre-
sumably had a rich succulent chicken
stock perpetually simmering away on
the back of the coal stove-a won-
derful resource, but keeping it ever
on the stove was your only option be-
cause there were no refrigerators or
freezers. In those days , too, you
could buy a stewing hen-where
have all those venerable birds gone?
Some time ago I was looking for one
and had to order it a week in ad-
vance, from a chicken farm!
Perhaps all the old hens go into

canned chicken broth, a modern con-
venience our great-grandparents Chi cke n bones and scraps, and opt ional vegetables
never knew. However, even though
1l1
today's cooks are blessed with cans of ..._,. MASTER REC IPE For about 2 quarts
excellent quality, homemade chicken
broth is certainly easy and economical Chicken Stock-Chicken 2 quarts or so raw and/or cooked
to brew. In our house, I usually make Broth chicken bones and scraps
a good quantity, and usually make it For soups and sauces Water to cover by 1 inch
perfectly plain, so that nothing but 2 tsp salt
chicken can interfere with the other It al ways has a cleaner, fresher, and Optional flavorings: ½ cup each
elements I may wish to put into my deeper flavor when made from raw chopped onion, carrot, and celery;
soup-or my sauce. chicken, but you may use bones and 1 medium imported bay leaf; 8
parsley stems
scraps from cooked chicken or a mix-
ture of both. Packaged chicken backs
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
and necks are particularly fine for
A 3-quart stainless saucepan with cover;
stock because there's meat on those
a fine-meshed sk immer or large metal
bones; or if you are one who bones
spoon; a fine-meshed sieve
chicken breasts or cuts up whole
chickens, save all bones, backs, giz-
Simmering the broth. Chop the bones
zards, and scraps in the freezer, and
and scraps into 1-inch pieces and
boil up a stock when you have an ade-
bri ng to the sim m er in the saucepan
quate collection.
with the water and salt . As the sim-
JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK SOUPS 5
mer is reached, gray scum will rise MANUFACTURING NOTE: ff you are in *Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared
to the surface for several minutes; a hurry, omit the steeping of the chicken in advance; chill uncovered, then
skim it off occasionally until it almost in its cooking broth-it does subtly fla- cover and refrigerate or freeze.
ceases to rise. Add the optional flavor the meat but adds another 2 0 min-
vorings. Cover the pan loosely and utes to an otherw ise quick recipe. Thin S erv ing. Just before serving, bring
simmer 1 ½ hours, adding a little slices are fastest for the vegetable gar- the soup to the simmer, taste and cor-
water if the liquid evaporates to ex- nish, but julienne matchsticks are more rect seasoning again if necessary.
pose the ingredients. Strain through chic . Ladle into warmed soup cups or
the sieve into a bowl, and degrease plates, and serve with melba toast,
( degreasing directions are on page For about 2 ½ quarts, serving 6 to 8 buttered toast points, toasted pita tri-
242). angles ( page 3 3), or puff pastry fleu-
The soup base:
rons (page 395 ).
*Ahead-of-time note : May be prepared 2 quarts chicken broth-the
in advance; chill uncovered, then preceding homemade version, or
cover and refrigerate or freeze. canned chicken broth
2 boned and skinned chicken-breast CREAM SOUPS
halves
The vegetable garnish: Soups may be creamed in a number

VARIATION S
1 cup each onions, carrots, white of of ways, including great lashings of
Turkey Stock leek, and tender celery stalks, that cream itself-an ambrosial item I
have been cut into julienne shall soft-pedal here in favor of the
matchstick size, fine dice, or thin veloute system with its flour-butter
Follow the preceding directions for
slices
roux, and of the following rice puree
Chicken Stock .
system, which looks, feels, and tastes
½ cup dry white French vermouth for all the world like a creamy soup
or dry white wine but can contain as low as zero fat.
Brown Chicken Stock 1 imported bay leaf
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
When you want a soup or sauce with
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: Cream Soups:
a good brown color, you brown the
ingredients in a frying pan before A 3 -quart stainless saucepan Low-Fat with Rice Puree
simmering them. Follow the recipe
for brown turkey stock on page 17 3 . The soup base. Bring the broth to the Start with onions cooked slowly in a
simmer in the saucepan with the little butter, add rice and soup liquid,
chicken breasts, vegetables, wine, simmer until the r ice is tender. Then
and bay leaf. Simmer for 4 minutes, add other ingredients to simmer for a
Clear Chicken and skimming as necessary; remove the moment, like cucumbers, zucchini,
Vegetable Soup chicken breasts, and let the vegetables broccoli. Put it all through your
Quick version, using boned chicken continue to simmer a few minutes puree machine and you have a quick
breasts more, or until tender. Meanwhile cut and delicious soup that is also as low
the chicken into julienne, and when in fat as you wish it to be . Here is
A good chicken soup is easily made the vegetables are done, return the the base for the soup, and following
with a package of fresh chicken chicken to the hot soup. If time per- it a number of ideas.
breasts and either homemade or mits, remove from the heat and let
canned broth plus fresh vegetables the chicken steep in the soup-
cut into julienne matchstick size. The to absorb its flavors-for 15 to 20
modest addition of wine gives a little minutes. Taste carefully, and correct
touch of sophistication . seasoning.
6 JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK
1\1
~ MASTER RECIPE
SPE CIAL N OTE
Rice and Onion Soup Base
For pureed cream soups Cucumber Fool
A cold cucumber puree
For about 2 quarts
As long as we're on the subject of cu-
1 to 2 cups sliced onions, depending
cumbers, this soup is a particularly
on how strong an onion flavor
fast, cool, and comfortable soup for a
you wish, and how much of the
summer day. A fool is an English
other ingredients you have
term usually indicating mashed or
2 Tbs butter
pureed fruits mixed with cream,
7 to 8 cups liquid: water, plus
gooseberry fool being typical. It's a
chicken, fish, or vegetable stock,
catchy title particularly when asso-
and/or milk-4 cups of liquid for
ciated with cucumbers, which might
the base; the rest added later
well be a fruit after all .
½ cup raw white rice
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Cream of chi cken and vegetable soup
The soup mixture. For about a quart,
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SU GGEST ED: serving 4 to 6, peel and halve 4 or 5
A heavy-bottomed 3 -quart stainless large cucumbers; scrape the seeds and
saucepan; an electric blender works es- juice into a sieve set over a bowl, see
pecially well here, but a food processor Cream of Chicken Soup illustration. Toss with a big pinch of
may be used with Vegetables salt and let drain. Cut the cucumber
Low-fat rice-puree method halves into chunks and set aside.
Saute the onions slowly in the butter Chop the tender white and green
for 7 to 8 minutes, or until tender Here's an easy and excellent cream of parts of half a dozen scallions in the
and translucent. Add 4 cups of liquid chicken soup . For 2 ½ quarts, com- food processor. Add the cucumber
and simmer about 20 m inutes, or un- bine the preceding rice and onion and chop roughly with a big pinch of
til the rice is very tender. (Then , in pureed soup base with the Clear sugar, several grinds of white pep-
most instances , you would also add Chicken and Vegetable Soup on page per, droplets of wine vinegar, the cu-
whatever else your recipe specifies, 5, but using only 4 cups of liquid for cumber juices, a small handful of
and let simmer 5 minutes or so each . Stir in a little sour cream or watercress leaves and either fresh dill
more. ) Puree the soup in the blender heavy cream if you wish, and the or a big pinch of dried dill, and, if
or food processor, adding more of the soup is ready to serve. you wish, several tablespoons of sour
liquid if needed, and you will have a cream or heavy cream . This will be a
smooth, creamy, lightly thickened fairly thick puree; correct seasoning ,
puree. Return the soup to the pan , and chill.
add the remaining liquid , and correct Additional Vegetables
seasoning. Finish off as suggested in Serv ing. Correct seasoning again be-
one of the following recipes. Cook 1 cup of shelled fresh green fore serving in chilled soup bowls or
peas separately, and reserve. Peel, cups. Decorate each , if you wish,
seed, and cut a cucumber into ju- with a spoonful of sour cream, or stir
lienne matchsticks, salt lightly, and in heavy cream, and top attractively
reserve. Just before serving the pre- with thinly sliced cucumbers and
ceding soup, add the peas and cu- sprigs of fresh dill or parsley.
cumbers, simmer for a moment,
correct seasoning, and serve.
SPECIAL NOTE
Creme Fraiche
This is the typical heavy cream you

buy in France; the culture it contains
allows it to ferment gently so that it
thickens like sour cream or yoghurt
and takes on a pleasant, slightly sour
Scraping seeds out of cucumber half Floating on thin slices of cucumber
taste. Creme frafche was all the rage
in this country during the 1960s and
197 Os-those happy, guilt-free days
Cream of Zucchini Soup when cream was king. Its advantage
Cream of Cucumber Soup
over sour cream is that you can let it
For about 2 ¼ quarts, serving 6 to 8 For about 2 ¼ quarts, serving 6 to 8 boil, reduce, and thicken without
fear of curdling. In addition, it has a
4 large cucumbers for the soup base 1½ pounds zucchini (5 zucchini, shelf life of a week or more in the re-
2 tsp wine vinegar 8 inches long) frigerator. I used to make it by stir-
2 tsp salt Ingredients for the Rice and Onion ring 2 tablespoons of yoghurt or
¼ tsp sugar Soup Base buttermilk into a cup or heavy
Ingredients for the Rice and Onion ¼ tsp fragrant dried tarragon leaves, cream, and letting it thicken several
Soup Base or sprigs of fresh tarragon hours or overnight at room tempera-
½ cup or so sour cream, optional ½ cup or so sour cream, heavy ture. I am now less orthodox and find
Decoration: 1 small cucumber cut cream, or creme fraiche, optional the following system quick, satisfac-
into very thin slices, with green Decoration: sprigs of fresh tarragon, tory, and a little less rich.
skin on if edible; minced fresh dill or minced fresh parsley
or parsley To make 2 cups of creme frafche:
Whisk 1 cup (½ pint) of chilled
The soup. Before starting the soup A food processor with coarse grating
heavy cream and 1 cup of chilled
base, peel the 4 large cucumbers, disk, or the coarse side of a hand grater
sour cream in a bowl until lightly
chop roughly, and toss with the vine- thickened. If you wish, let it sit out
gar, salt, and sugar. Let stand until The soup. Trim off the zucchini's
at room tern perature for several
the base has simmered 15 minutes, stem and bud ends, and wash but do
hours to thicken and sour a little
then turn the cucumbers and their not peel the zucchini. Grate them.
more. Refrigerate in a covered con-
juices into the soup and simmer 5 Simmer three quarters of the pulp 5
tainer, where it will keep a week or
minutes more. Puree; whisk in the to 6 minutes in the soup base before
so-or until it takes on a bitter taste.
optional sour cream. pureeing. After pureeing, blend in
the optional cream and the remainder
Serving. Ladle the soup into warmed of the zucchini shreds; simmer 2 to 3
soup bowls, and top each serving minutes, just until the zucchini is
with 3 or 4 cucumber slices and a big tender.
pinch of minced dill or parsley.
Serving. Top each serving with sprigs
of tarragon or a sprinkling of
parsley.
Cream of Cauliflower Soup soup base if needed. Pour the puree cream soups, be they based on
back into the soup. chicken, mushrooms, artichokes,
Cauliflower soup can be very good, broccoli, or even fish.
in spite of the dreadful public ex- Finishing the soup and serving. Shortly
amples most of us have refused to fin- before serving, toss the toasted MA UFACTURING OTE: Veloute soups
ish. Perhaps those dreary memories crumbs and parsley in a bowl with a are delicious and velvety when properly
stay with us because the cauliflower dusting of salt and pepper. Stir the made, but they can be dismal and gluey
was overcooked, or because the soup cream, if you are using it, into the when prepared by careless or untutored
sat in a steam table. However, even a soup and simmer 2 minutes. Taste cooks. It is of greatest importance that
fine cauliflower soup like the follow- carefully and correct seasoning. Top the roux be sufficiently cooked, as de-
ing is very white, and I like to dress each serving with a sprinkling of scribed below, and that the soup have a
up mine with something colorful like parslied crumbs. preliminary simmer of least 1 0 minutes.
the blend of toasted bread crumbs Nothing difficult about that!
and parsley suggested here.
CHICKEN STOCK NOTE: When making
VAR IATION vegetable soups, don't be too lavish with
For about 2¼ quarts, serving 6 to 8
chicken stock, particularly canned stock.
A 2-pound head of cauliflower Cream of Cauliflower Soup If it is too strong, you'll muffle the taste
(about 6 inches across) with Broccoli of such vegetables as broccoli and zuc-
Ingredients for the Rice and Onion chini . Dilute the stock with some of the
Soup Base, using only 1 cup of A combination of cauliflower and vegetable cooking liquid, as suggested fo r
the onions called for, and broccoli makes an attractive soup; use the broccoli soup farther on. No rules
including 2 cups of milk after about half and half. Treat the broc- here; have trust in your own judgment
pureeing coli in the same fashion-peeling the of tastes .
Salt and freshly ground white pepper stem, chopping the rest roughly, and
½ cup or so sour cream, heavy steaming it with the cauliflower. Top
cream, or creme frafche, optional each serving with a dollop of sour
1h
cream rather than with the crumbs. ~ MASTER RECIPE
Optional Decoration:
1 cup crumbs from fresh white bread V eloute Soup Base
sauteed to brown lightly in 2 Tbs
butter; ¼ cup loosely packed OTHER VA RIATIONS
For about 2 quarts
minced fresh parsley
Any of the cream soups in the follow- 4 Tbs butter
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: ing veloute group may be adapted to ¾ cup to 1 ½ cups minced onion and/
A steamer basket set in a covered the preceding rice puree system. or white of leek-the amount
saucepan depending on your other
ingredients
The soup. Core the central stem out of ¼ cup flour
the cauliflower and peel off its tough Cream Soups: Veloute 7 to 8 cups liquid: chicken or fish
outer skin; cut the remaining stem stock and/or milk or vegetable
into chunks. Chop the rest of the Start out with minced onions tenderly cooking liquid-of which at least
cauliflower roughly. Add ½ inch of simmered in butter, stir in a little 1 cup is hot
water to the saucepan, and steam the flour to make the roux that will Salt and freshly ground white pepper
cauliflower pieces for 3 to 4 minutes, lightly thicken the soup, and cook
or until barely tender. Remove the until the butter and flour are foaming SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
steamer basket, and rapidly boil nicely; moisten with a delicious A heavy-bottomed 3 -quart stainless ,
down the steaming liquid to less than chicken stock or milk or wine, then saucepan
1 cup. Puree the caulifl~wer with the simmer a few minutes more. That's
steaming liquid, plus a little of the the tradition base for a m yriad of
J ULIA CHILD THEW A Y TO COOK SOUPS 9
I . Cooking the butter and flour together 2 . Whisking the hot li q ui d into the roux 3 . The li quid is thi ck enough to coat a 4. F o lding mushrooms into soup base
to make a roux wooden spoon .
Set the saucepan over moderately low VAR IATIO N Finishing the soup and serving. Bring
heat, add the butter, and, when the soup base to the simmer, and fold
melted, stir in the onions. Cover and Cream of Mushroom Soup in the mushrooms and tarragon, see
cook slowly 7 to 8 minutes, or until illustration; simmer 10 minutes, stir-
the onions are tender and translucent. Use this as the general model for all ring frequently to prevent scorching.
Blend in the flour. Stir slowly for 3 veloute soups, and since the base Stir in the optional cream, simmer a _
minutes, to cook the flour without itself is well flavored, the actual moment more, and carefully correct
letting it color, see illustration, step amount of other ingredients you add seasoning, adding drops of lemon
1. Remove from heat, and in a few is not too important. For instance, juice if you think they are needed.
seconds, when bubbling stops, pour the following recipe calls for 1 quart Decorate each serving, if you wish,
in 1 cup of hot liquid all at once, of mushrooms, but just a handful as suggested.
whisking vigorously to blend will give the mushroom impression.
smoothly, step 2. Whisk in 6 more
cups. Bring to the simmer, stirring, For about 2¼ quarts, serving 6
and simmer 10 minutes-stirring
Ingredients for the preceding
frequently to be sure the soup is not
V eloute Soup Base, made with 1
scorching on the bottom of the pan.
cup of hot chicken broth and 6 or
The soup base should be slightly
more cups of milk
thickened, enough to coat a spoon
1 quart fresh mushrooms, trimmed,
lightly, step 3-add dollops more
washed, and diced (page 314)
liquid if too thick. Correct seasoning,
¼ tsp dried tarragon leaves
and continue as your recipe directs.
½ cup or more sour cream, heavy
cream, or creme fraiche, optional
SPECIAL NOTE Salt and freshly ground white pepper
Drops of lemon juice, if needed Other Cream of Vegeta ble
*Ahead-of-time note for roux-based Soups
Suggested decoration:
soups and sauces: Warm flour-based
soups and sauces will form a skin Sprigs of fresh tarragon; or slivers of Make other vegetable soups in much
over their surface. The skin will not neatly sliced raw mushroom caps the same way, either simmering the
form if you stir the soup frequently tossed in drops of lemon juice; or vegetables in the veloute base as for
until it is cool. Or fill a large kitchen a fluted stewed mushroom cap the preceding mushroom soup, or
spoon with stock or milk and lay the (page 312) for each serving cooking them separately as for the
spoon just over the surface, tipping it following broccoli soup . Here the
to let, the liquid float on top. Or lay a soup is pureed, and given a final de-
A food processor is useful for mincing
sheet of plastic wrap on top of the cor of broccoli buds.
the mushrooms
surface, pressing it in well.
Cream of Broccoli Soup lovely fresh pale green. Simmer the 2 quarts lightly salted boiling water
reserved broccoli buds in the cooking Salt
For about 2 ½ quarts, serving 6 to 8 liquid for 2 to 3 minutes, drain the 2 Tbs flour
cooking liquid into another saucepan , Freshly ground white pepper
2 large heads of fresh broccoli
and boil down rapidly to less than 1 ½ cup or so heavy cream, creme
(1 ¼ to 1 ½ pounds)
cup; pour the liquid into the soup fraiche, or sour cream, optional
base. Meanwhile, run cold water 2 Tbs butter, optional
Ingredients for the V eloute Soup
over the broccoli buds to set the
Base SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
color, and reserve for the final
½ cup or more sour cream, heavy A food processor and a sieve set over a
decoration.
cream, or creme fraiche, optional bowl
Drops of lemon juice, if needed
*Ahead-of-time note: To preserve its
2 Tbs butter, optional The soup base and the asparagus. Start
green color chill the soup uncovered.
out with the soup base. Cook the on-
Finishing the soup. Shortly before ions and butter slowly in the saucepan
An electric blender or a food proces-
serving, bring the soup to the sim- until tender and translucent. Mean-
sor-the blender does a faster and bet-
mer. Stir in the cream if you are while, cut 2 ½ to 3 inches of tender
ter job of pureeing- or a v egetable mill
using it. Simmer 2 to 3 minutes un- green from the tip ends of the aspara-
covered-always watching that it gus; drop them into the boiling water
Preparing the broccoli. Wash the broc-
does not scorch! Taste carefully for and boil 3 minutes, or until barely
coli . Trim an inch or so off the
seasoning, adding lemon juice if you tender. Dip out with a skimmer (re-
woody ends of each stem, and peel
think it needed. (The broccoli buds: serving water), and refresh the aspar-
the stems with a knife up to where
rather than leaving them as is, you agus tips briefly in a bowl of cold
the bud branches begin, taking off a
may wish to saute them briefly in 2 water to set the color; drain and re-
scant 1/16 inch of the tough outer
tablespoons of butter.) serve. Chop the remaining stalks into
green skin. Cut off the tiny branches
½ -inch lengths and add to the onions
and bud ends of the broccoli flower-
Serving. Pour the soup into a warmed with a sprinkling of salt . Cover and
ettes, and reserve. Cut the remaining
tureen for serving at the table , or cook slowly 5 minutes. Stir in the
stalks into ¼-inch slices.
into warmed soup cups or plates. flour and cook, stirring, 3 minutes
Decorate with the broccoli buds . more. Remove from heat, and, when
Preliminary cooking of the broccoli.
bubbling stops, blend in the hot as-
P lace the sliced broccoli in a sauce-
To serve cold. See directions for the paragus cooking water. Simmer un-
pan; add ½ inch of water and ¼ tea-
following asparagus soup . covered 25 to 30 minutes, or until
spoon of salt. Bring to the boil and
tender enough to puree.
boil slowly uncovered 4 to 5 minutes,
adding a little more water if neces-
Pureeing the soup. Cut just the tips off
sary, until the pieces are barely ten-
der and a fine bright green. Drain
Cream of Asparagus Soup the blanched asparagus tops; cut the
tips lengthwise in halves or quarters
through a sieve set over a bowl, and
This uses essentially the same method and reserve for final decoration. Add
return the cooking liquid to the
as the preceding broccoli soup, but the lower parts of the tips to the soup
saucepan . Puree the steamed broccoli
since there are slight differences, here base, and puree the soup. Then, to
wi th a cup or so of the soup base,
are more details than usual . remove asparagus strings, strain
pouring the puree back into the re-
through the sieve, pressing juices out
maining soup-which will now be a
For about 2 quarts of ingredients. It will be a lovely pale
green color-to keep it that way, re-
1 cup sliced onions
heat it only just before serving . Care-
3 Tbs butter
fully correct seasoning.
2 pounds fresh green asparagus,
washed and butts trimmed
•
*Ahead-of-time note: See Special SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: Decoration:

Note, page 9 . A vegetable steamer
Minced fresh parsley, or a dollop of
sour cream and faint dusting of
To serve hot. Just before serving, re- The carrots. Trim and peel the car-
curry powder for each serving
heat the soup to the simmer, stirring rots; reserve one for final decoration.
in cream if you are using it . Taste, The soup. Saute the onions for the
and correct seasoning again. Decorate Soup carrots. Chop the remaining
soup base in the 4 tablespoons of but-
each serving with the reserved aspar- carrots roughly and stir them into the
ter, and, when tender, stir in the
agus tips (use them as is, or saute onions as you are sauteing them for
curry powder. Saute 1 minute longer,
briefly in butter, if you wish). the rice and onion soup base. When
stirring, then blend in the fl.our and
tender, continue with the recipe, sim-
continue as usual. Puree the soup or
To serve cold. Chill uncovered. Either mering ·them with the rice, and pu-
not, as you wish, and simmer a mo-
stir in chilled cream (half a cup or reeing the soup. ment with the optional cream.
so) and ladle into soup cups, or fl.oat a
dollop of sour cream on the surface Decorative carrot. While the soup is Serving. Decorate each serving with
of each serving. Decorate with the simmering, shave the reserved carrot
parsley or sour cream and curry
reserved asparagus tips. into strips 3 inches long with a vege-
powder.
table peeler; steam several minutes
over ½ inch of water until tender.
Reserve uncovered. Reheat just be-
VARIATION VA RIATION
fore serving, and strew a small hand-
ful over each cup of soup.
Cream of Carrot Soup: Curried Fish Soup
Potage Crecy
For 2 ½ quarts, serving 6 to 8
The same idea as the preceding as- SPECIAL NOTE
paragus, where a vegetable is cooked Ingredients for the preceding

Other Vegetables for Soup Curried Onion Soup, but you
with the onions, then simmered with
may wish to use only 1 to 2 cups
them and the rice before being pu-
Celery, turnips, rutabagas, parsnips, onions, and fish or chicken stock
reed. Crecy, by the way, is a small
and beets may be treated in the same plus milk
town south of Paris, in the Seine et
general way as carrots. 1 pound (2 cups) or so very fresh-
Marne district, where they would
have us know that the best of the best smelling lea.n fish fillets such as
sole, halibut, trout, cod, hake, sea
carrots are grown. Thus any time you
bass, pollack
see Crecy as part of a recipe name
you know what it contains. Is Crecy
The soup. Prepare the base for the
also famous for the French version of Curried Onion Soup
Curried Onion Soup, and let it sim-
a certain cake, so popular in this
mer its 20 minutes . Meanwhile, cut
country? For 2 ¼ quarts, serving 6
the fish into smallish bite-size pieces;
Ingredients for the V eloute Soup when the soup is ready, stir in the op-
For about 2¼ quarts, serving 6
Base (page 8), using 4 cups sliced tional cream and the fish. Simmer 2
6 to 8 large carrots onions and 4 Tbs butter to 3 minutes, and correct seasoning.
Ingredients for the Rice and Onion 1 Tbs fragrant curry powder
Soup Base, page 6 ½ cup or so sour cream, heavy Serving. Serve as described for the
½ cup or so sour cream, heavy cream, or creme Jrafche, optional Curried Onion Soup.
cream, or creme Jrafche, optional
Salt and freshly ground white pepper .
12 J ULI A CHILD THE WAY TO COOK
Cream of Corn Soup Puree the soup if you want a For about 6 cups, serving 4 to 6
smoother effect. Carefully correct
¾ cup minced onions
Here is one of the g reat solutions for seasonmg.
2 Tbs butter
fresh ears of corn that just aren't
Ingredients for the recipe To Cook
quite fresh and tender enough to *Ahead-of-time note: This soup gains
Artichoke Bottoms (page 281).
make it alone on the cob . in flavor when made an hour or more
Use the artichokes as you wish,
in advance; see Special Note, page 9.
but cook 2 additional bottoms for
For about 2¾ quarts , serving 6 to 8
the soup; save the cooking liquid,
Serving. Bring to the simmer, stir in
Ingredients for the V eloute Soup and save all the artichoke leaves.
a little cream if you wish, taste again
Base (page 8), using 3 cups Additional liquid as needed: milk,
for seasoning, and serve either as it is
chicken stock, 3 cups milk, plus cream, and/or light chicken broth
or with a decoration such as those
more milk or w ater later, as
suggested. Final decoration:
needed
6 ears of fresh corn (about 1 ½ cups, 1 to 2 Tbs butter for sauteing the
grated) sliced artichoke bottoms; 2 Tbs
½ cup or so sour cream, heavy finely chopped fresh parsley
Cream of Artichoke Soup
Salt and freshly ground white pepper What to do with all that good arti- A heavy-bottomed I ½ -quart saucepan;
Decorative suggestions: choke-flavored cooking liquid when a vegetable mill w ith fine blade, or a
Rings of red pepper sauteed slowly you're making artichoke bottoms- food p rocessor and sieve
in butter (3 per person); or 1 tsp that's the real name of this soup. That
diced pimiento per serving; or a liquid is known as a blanc, a lemony The soup base. Saute the onions in the
mixture of cooked corn kernels lightly thickened soup designed to butter until tender and translucent-
and parsley, floated on a spoonful prevent the artichokes from darken- 6 to 8 minutes. Blend in the arti-
of sour cream; or minced chives ing as they cook. It is a shame to choke liquid and simmer 15 minutes,
or parsley waste expensive artichoke flavor, es- stirring frequently and adding more
pecially when you could get some liquid if necessary, to prevent
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGEST ED: meat off the discarded leaves, and scorching.
A corn grater is us~ful; a f ood p rocessor, could easily cook 1 or 2 more bot-
blender, or vegetable mill if you w ish to toms for such an elegant soup. The artichokes. Meanwhile, drop the
puree the soup discarded artichoke leaves in a kettle
MAN U FACTURING NOTE: H ere the
of lightly salted boiling water, and
The soup. While the veloute base is lightly thickened artichoke cooking liq-
boil uncovered 20 minutes or so, un-
simmering, grate the corn-if you uid serves as the veloute base, but it
til tender. Drain; refresh in cold
have no special tool , run the cutting needs simmering w ith sauteed onions to
water. Scrape the tender flesh off the
edge of a small knife down the center give it more fla v or. If the soup seems too
inner bottom curves of the leaves-
of each line of kernels, up-end an ear lemony, dilute it w ith milk or cream? or
labor-intensi ve but worth it-and
over a pie plate, and scrape out the make additional veloute base.
drop the flesh into the soup base.
pulp with the back of a knife. After Trim rough edges off the artichoke
the veloute has simmered 15 min- bottoms and add the trimmings to the
utes, add the corn and simmer 5 soup. Place them hollow side down,
minutes more- stirring up fre- cut the artichoke bottoms into thin,
quently from the bottom of the pan to neat, vertical slices, and set aside.
prevent scorching. If too thick , add a
little milk and/or opti onal cream.
Finishing the soup base. Simmer the 0 n ion Note: Of course you may SER VI N G S UGGESTIO N S
trimmings and the flesh from the substitute onions for leeks, but you
leaves 5 minutes in the soup base. won' t get that wonderful pervading Serving au Na tu rel
Puree the base and return it to the and special flavor that is the
saucepan. Add more liquid, if trademark of the leek. Ladle out the soup, and top each
needed, and taste very carefully for serving with a dollop of sour cream,
seasoning. if you wish .
th
*Ahead-of-time note: See Special ~ MASTER RECIPE
Note, page 9 .
Leek and Potato Soup Pureed Leek and Potato Soup
Serving. Shortly before serving, heat
the butter until bubbling, and gently Here is the mother of the family in Puree the soup through a vegetable
warm the reserved artichoke slices, all her simplicity. You'll note there's mill, or in a blender or food proces-
seasoning them lightly with salt, pep- no chicken stock here, just water, sor. Serve with the optional cream .
per, and a sprinkling of parsley. leeks, potatoes, and salt in the soup
Ladle the soup into warmed soup base. However, you may include
cups, and decorate wi th the artichoke chicken stock if you wish, and you
slices. may certainly include milk. A bit of Cream of Leek and Potato
cream at the end is a nourishing Soup ·
touch, but by no means a necessity.
Use a cup less liquid when simmer-
THE LEEK AND POTATO MANUFACTURING NOTE: If you are ing the soup. After pureeing, whisk
SOUP FAMILY not pureeing the soup, cut the vegetables 1/3 cup or more of sour cream , heavy
rather neatly. cream, or creme frafche into the. soup,
simmering a moment to blend.
D elicious, fragrant, easy to

make-that's the abiding
charm of the leek and potato soup
For about 2½ quarts, serving 6 to 8
4 cups sliced leeks-the white part

and a bit of the tender green (to
Chilled Leek and Potato Soup:
family. They are vegetable soups, and clean leeks, see page 298)
interestingly enough they are usually 4 cups diced potatoes-old or baking Vichyssoise
water-based, meaning that the fine potatoes recommended
fresh taste of the vegetables is not ob- 6 to 7 cups water For about 2 ½ quarts, serving 6 to 8
scured by lashings of chicken stock. 1½ to 2 tsp salt, or to taste Ingredients for the preceding Cream
½ cup or more sour cream, heavy of Leek and Potato Soup, but
Leeks and potatoes simmered in cream, or creme fraiche, optional using the white part of the leeks
lightly salted water make a perfect
only
soup in themselves even without the SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
Chilled sour cream, heavy cream, or
addition of a little cream, and are a A heavy-bottomed 3 -quart saucepan
creme fraiche, optional
perfect background for other addi- with cover
1 Tbs minced fresh chives or parsley
tions such as watercress, spinach, and
so forth . And when you're looking Simmering the soup. Bring the leeks,
After chilling the soup, you may wish
for a cold soup, for instance, chill potatoes, and water to the boil in the
to stir in a little more cream. Taste
plain old leek and potato and you saucepan. Salt lightly, cover partially,
carefully, and correct seasoni ng. Top
have the famous Vichyssoise. and simmer 20 to 30 minutes, or un-
each serving with ½ teaspoon of
til the vegetables are tender. Taste,
chives or parsley.
and correct seasoning.
Watercress Soup S oupe du J our
Watercress soup, hot or chilled- With your Leek and Potato Soup at
lovely to look at, delightful to sip, hand, consider it as a base to which
and one of the best versions is made you can add all sorts of other vege-
with a leek and potato base. tables either raw or cooked, such as
cauliflower, brussels sprouts, carrots,
For about 2½ quarts, serving 6 to 8 green beans, turnips, broccoli,
squash, pumpkin, and so forth and so
Ingredients for Leek and Potato
on. If they are fresh, grate or chop
Soup I. Chopping bones with mallet and cleaver
them and simmer a few minutes in
A big bunch of watercress
the soup before pureeing; if they are
½ cup or so sour cream, heavy
cooked, simply puree them with the
soup.
Prepare the Leek and Potato Soup
as directed. Meanwhile, wash the
watercress and chop the stems
THE BOUILLON-BASED
roughly-you may wish to save out a
SOUPS
handful of leaves for decoration. Stir
the chopped cress into the soup dur-
ing the last 5 minutes of simmering.
Puree the soup, and serve with a top-
ping of cream and a scattering of
watercress leaves, if you wish.
B eef stock-beef bouillon-is
the base for beef stews, rich
brown sauces, and wonderful soups,
2. Bones and vegetables after browning in the oven
such as French onion, oxtail, beef

and vegetable. There's nothing like
your own personal stock to give all of
VARIATIONS these soups your own special flavor.
Chilled Watercress Soup

1\1
Prepare the Watercress Soup as de- ~ MASTER RECIPE
scribed, then follow the directions for
Chilled Leek and Potato Soup. Brown Beef Stock-Beef
3 . Skimming off the scum
Bouillon-Beef Broth
THE BONES TO CHOOSE. Raw beef
Spinach Soup bones, some of them meaty, are what MANUFACTURING N OTE: There is
you want here, such as the shank, the nothing fancy or elaborate about the fol-
Prepare Spinach Soup like Water- neck, the knuckle; leg bones, too, plus lowing home-style stock, and no attempt
cress Soup, roughly chopping 2 any raw scraps you may have collected to make it a production of la grande
packages (20 ounces) of stemmed and in your freezer-ribs, steak bones, and cuisine. To get a good brow n color,
well-washed fresh spinach, and sim- so forth. If the bones are too big, ask however, you do want to brown the
mering the leaves in the soup 4 to 5 your butcher to chop them up, see illus- bones half an hour or so in a hot oven;
minutes before pureeing. (Directions tration, step 1 . An oxtail will give ex- the rest of the cooking is simply a matter
for stemming spinach are on page tra flavor and a pleasantly slightly of quiet and almost unattended
2 77; note that the stems have nothing gelatinous texture; you can either add simmering.
to recommend them-no color, no the meat to a soup or turn it into the
flavor, just nongastronomical bulk.) oxtail dumplings described farther on.
ill
For 3 to 4 quarts of stock Simmering the stock-4 to 5 hours. .._.,. MASTER RECIPE
Add the herb bouquet to the kettle
3 to 4 pounds ( 4 quarts or so) meaty
and the rest of the vegetables listed, To Clarify Stock
raw beef bones sawed into pieces
with enough of the water to cover the
of 3 inches or less (see the
ingredients by 2 inches. Bring to the For about 4 cups
preceding discussion of bones)
simmer on top of the stove; skim off 5 cups fully degreased cold meat or
2 each: large carrots, onions, and
and discard gray scum that will col- poultry stock, such as the
celery ribs, roughly chopped
lect on the surface for several min- preceding beef stock (see notes
6 or more quarts cold water
utes, step 3. Add 1½ teaspoons salt. following for using weak stock or
A large-size herb bouquet plus 4
Cover loosely, and maintain at the canned broths)
allspice berries and 6 peppercorns
slow simmer, skimming off fat and 4 egg whites(½ cup)
(see Special Note, page 336)
scum occasionally, and adding a little
2 large cloves of unpeeled garlic,
boiling water if the liquid has evapo- SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
smashed
rated below the surface of the ingre- A very clean 2-quart saucepan for the
1 large unpeeled tomato, cored and
dients. Simmer until you feel the stock; a large clean ladle; straining
roughly chopped, or ½ cup
bones have given their all. equipment-a sieve lined with 3 thick-
canned Italian plum tomatoes
1 ½ tsp salt, plus more as needed nesses of washed cheesecloth set in a col-
Straining and degreasing. Strain the ander over a bowl (see illustration)
later
stock through the colander into a
SPECIAL EQUI PM ENT SUGGESTED: bowl, pressing juices out of the in- Combining stock and egg whites. Whisk
A roasting pan for the bones; an 8-quart gredients. Degrease the stock-di- 1 cup of the cold stock in a bowl with
kettle with cover for simmering the rections are on page 242-and season the egg whites while bringing the
stock; a colMtder C/1}1,dfine-meshed sieve lightly to taste. Strain again, this rest of the stock to the simmer in the
for straining time through the fine-meshed sieve saucepan. Remove from heat and
into a clean pan or container. whisk 1 cup of the hot stock by drib-
B rowning the bones-30 to 40 minutes . bles into the egg white mixture, then
Preheat the oven to 450°F. Arrange *Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared slowly whisk the egg white mixture
the bones and ½ cup each of the in advance; chill uncovered, then into the saucepan of hot stock.
chopped vegetables in the roasting ~ cover and refrigerate or freeze.
pan and brown in the upper third of The clarification process. Set the sauce-
the oven, turning and basting with pan over moderate heat and, whisk-
accumulated fat several times until ing slowly to keep the egg whites in
they are a good walnut brown , step CONSOMMES AND ASPICS gentle but constant circulation
2. Scoop bones and vegetables into throughout the liquid, bring just to
the kettle; pour out and discard accu- Clarification of Stocks the simmer. At once stop whisking.
mulated fat. (The egg whites will have clung to
Both consommes and aspics are made the bits of matter that cloud the stock
D eglazing the roasting pan. Pour 2 of meat, fish, or poultry stock that is and will rise to the surface; they must
cups of the water into the pan and sparkling clear. All the minute float- now coagulate firmly enough so that
bring to the boil over moderately ing particles of this and that which when you strain the stock the egg
high heat; using a wooden spoon; cloud the stock have been drawn off, whites will hold together, allowing
scrape browning juices into the liq- and the clarified liquid not only is the clear liquid to drip through.) Set
uid , then pour the liquid over the beautiful to look at but has acquired a the pan at the side of the heat so the
browned bones in the kettle. subtle refinement of taste. Again stock barely bubbles in that area; let
there is nothing difficult about clari- it barely bubble for 5 minutes. Ro-
fying stock-it is heated with egg
whites, then strained-but this really
magical process takes a little time.
16 JULIAC HILDTHEWAYTOCOOK
SOUPS U SING
S PECI AL NO TE A BEEF STOCK BASE
Using Canned Broth or

Bouillon
Beef and Vegetable Soup
Simmer canned chicken broth for 3 0
minutes with just enough canned beef This colorful minestrone-type soup
bouillon to color it lig htly, plus 11+ could well be a main course, espe-
cup each of minced carrots, celery, cially when you include the meat and
Ladling cloud y stock through cheesecloth
oni ons, and dr y white wine or ver- beef-marrow croutons in the serving
mouth. Strain, and you have a re- suggestions following the main
spectable stock substitute. recipe.
To Clarify Stoc k (continued )
For 2 ½ quarts, serving 6
tate the pan a quarter turn and repeat 2 Tbs butter

the process for 5 minutes; rotate the VA RIATION 1 cup each: finely and neatly diced
pan again and let bubble a final 5 carrots, onions, leeks, and tender
minutes. Consomme celery ribs
2 quarts Brown Beef Stock-or
Straining. Making sure that the bot- If your stock was strong and well fla- canned beef bouillon slightly
tom of the sieve will be well above vored to begin with, it is now con- diluted if necessary so it is not too
the level of the liquid once it is somme; however, you may wish to strong
strained, gently ladle the stock with add a few tablespoons of Port wine. ½ cup neatly diced turnips
the coagulated egg whites into the ½ cup orzo (rice-shaped pasta), or
sieve and let the miraculously clear quick-cooking tapioca, or raw rice
sparkling liquid drip through undis- 1½ cups shredded green outer leaves
turbed, as illustrated. (Do not Aspic of cabbage
squeeze the cheesecloth, or cloudy ¾ cup peeled, seeded, and neatly
liquid will come through.) For 4 cups of aspic, soften 2 ½ table- diced tomatoes
spoons of unflavored gelati n in 11+ ¾ cup cooked or canned red or
*Ahead-of-time note: When the stock cup of Port or Madeira wine ( or in white beans, optional
is cold, you may refrigerate it for Cognac or dr y white French ver- Salt and freshly ground pepper
several days in a covered container, mouth for clear chicken stock). Stir
or freeze it for several months. SPECIAL EQUI PM ENT SUGGESTED:
the gelatin mixture into the hot clari-
A heavy-bottomed 3 -quart saucepan
fied stock as soon as it has dripped
MANUFACTURING NOTE: To give
through into the bowl.
character to weak stock, blend ½ cup of The soup . Melt the butter in the
perfectly lean chopped beef ( or chicken saucepan, stir in the diced carrots,
or turkey breast), ½ cup offinely onions, leeks, and celery, and saute 2
chopped leek, and a small handful of minutes. Pour in the stock, add the
chopped fresh parsley with the raw egg
Jellied C onsomme
turnips and orzo, tapi oca, or rice,
whites before you combine them with the
Follow the same system, using only
cup of cold stock at the beginning of the
1 tablespoon of gelatin.
clarification.
J ULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK SOUPS 17
and simmer 10 to 15 minutes, or un-

til the vegetables are tender. Mean-
while, drop the cabbage into a pan of
boiling water and boil uncovered 2 to
3 minutes, until limp; drain, run
cold water over it to set the color, and
reserve .
*Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared

in advance; chill uncovered, then
cover and refrigerate.
Finishing the soup . Just before serv-

ing, bring the soup to the simmer
with the cabbage, diced tomatoes,
and the cooked beans if you are using
them. Taste carefully, and correct
seasoning. Serve the soup as it is, or
in one of the following ways.
Ing redie nts fo r oxtail so up
Serving Suggestions: serve the meat, and return the re-

Oxtail Soup mains and bones to simmer with the
stock. After sauteing the diced vege-
If you have included oxtails among tables in the preceding recipe, add all
the bones for your beef stock, brown or part of the meat along with the
them along with the rest of the bones, turnips, stock, etc., for the 10- to
and let them simmer in the stock for 15-minute simmer. Finish the soup
about 2 hours, or until the meat can as described. Or you may wish to
be removed from the bones-a picky turn all or some of the meat into the
job! Cut off bits of fat and gristle, re- foll owing dumplings.
I8 JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK
Oxtail Variation: Oxtail SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
Dumplings A food processor
What else to do with that scrappy, Garlic and onions. Peel the garlic and
shreddy, but delicious meat that you chop roughly by hand; with the ma-
have dug out of those oxtails? Turn it chine running, drop it in. Peel the
into oxtail dumplings to garnish the onion, chop roughly by hand, and
soup, or let it be a meat loaf, saute it pulse it several seconds in the ma-
hamburger-fashion, or consider it a chine to dice it. Scrape into a small
stuffing for braised vegetables. The frying pan and saute slowly in the
meat of just one oxtail provides the butter until tender-5 minutes or so.
following.
The rest of the ingredients. With the
For about 2 cups machine running, drop in the pars-
ley, then the oxtail meat, sausage,
1 large clove of garlic crumbs, egg, and a modest amount
1 large onion of seasoning. Scrape into a mixing
2 Tbs butter bowl and blend in the cheese; saute a
Serv ing of soup with beef marrow croutons
½ cup lightly pressed down parsley spoonful in a small frying pan, taste
leaves carefully, and correct seasoning. The
1 cup, approximately, cooked oxtail mixture is now ready to be formed.
meat
3 ounces sausage meat (¾ cup or 3 *Ahead-of-time notes: Two cups will
links)-for texture and flavor make 3 dozen or so dumplings, and
1/3 cup lightly pressed crumbs from you'll probably want only 3 or 4 per
fresh white homemade type serving. You may freeze the mixture
bread-as a binder either at this point or after cooking
1 "large" egg the dumplings as described in the
Salt, freshly ground pepper, and next step.
thyme
Remov ing beef marrow
2 to 3 Tbs grated Swiss or Parmesan To use as dumplings. Rapidly take up
cheese tablespoon gobs of the dumpling
mixture and nudge with a rubber
spatula into a pan of simmering beef
stock or of lightly salted water; cook
at just below the simmer 5 to 6 min-
utes. Slip them into a bowl of cold
water to firm them for 2 minutes,
then drain them on paper towels.
Add them to warm in the soup just
before serving.
French Onion Soup Simmering the soup. Sprinkle in the

SPECIAL NOTE
flour and cook slowly, stirring, for
This is certainly one of the all-time another 3 to 4 minutes. Remove
Poached Beef Marrow favorites. The canned and packaged from heat , let cool a moment, then
onion soups I've tried have been very whisk in 2 cups of hot stock . When
Marrow is the fatty filling of beef leg good, and the only way to better them well blended, bring to the simmer,
bones. It's a pleasing topping for is for you to have your own beautiful adding the rest of the stock, the Co-
soup croutons, and it also goes into beef stock . However, bought onion gnac or brandy, and the vermouth.
red-wine sauces and flavored butters. soup will benefit from the flavor ad- Cover loosely, and simmer very
A shame to waste it! ditions suggested here. slowly 1½ hours, adding a little
water if the liquid reduces too much.
For ½ to 2/2 cup
TIMING: For the most delicious results, Correct seasoning.
3 or 4 bone-in beef shin slices ¾ inch you want a slow simmer of 2 ¾ to 3
thick, or 2 or 3 beef marrow (leg) hours. *Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared
bones in advance; chill uncovered, then
For about 2 ½ quarts, serving 6 cover and refrigerate or freeze.
3 Tbs butter
A cleaver or heavy knife and hammer Serving. Serve the soup as it is, ac-
1 Tbs light olive oil or fresh peanut
for marrow bones companying it with French bread and
oil
Removing the marrow. Trying to keep 8 cups thinly sliced onions (2½ a bowl of grated Swiss or Parmesan
pounds) cheese, or gratine it as follows.
the marrow in big pieces, scoop it out
of the shin slices with a small knife. ½ tsp each salt and sugar (sugar
Or stand a longish leg bone on end, helps the onions to brown)
poise the cleaver at one side of the 2 Tbs flour VARIATION
bone where it meets the marrow, and 2½ quarts homemade beef stock,
whack with the hammer to split bone page 14, at least 2 cups of which Onion Soup Gratineed
from marrow. Repeat on another side should be hot
if necessary, then dig out the marrow 4 to 5 Tbs Cognac, Armagnac, or When onion soup is a main course,
with a knife. Before cutting the mar- other good brandy bake it in the oven with cheese and
row into 3/s-inch slices or ½ -inch 1 cup dry white French vermouth toasted French bread, and bring.it all
dice, first dip your knife in boiling crusty and bubbling to the table. A
water; refrigerate the marrow until big salad, more bread and cheese,
you are ready to use it. A food processor with slicing blade or a and fruit could finish the meal, ac-
hand slicer is useful for the onions; a companied by a bottle or two of
To poach. marrow. Shortly before serv- heavy-bottomed 3 -quart saucepan with fruity white wine, like a sauvignon
ing, drop it into a pan of hot (not cover for onion cooking and simmering blanc or even a gewurztraminer.
simmering), lightly salted water for a
moment to soften; dip it out with a Browning the onions-40 minutes. Set MANUFACTURING NOTE : Be sure you
slotted spoon . the saucepan over moderate heat with have a homemade type of bread with
the butter and oil; when the butter body here because flimsy loaves will dis-
Serving suggestion . Arrange marrow has melted, stir in the onions, cover integrate into a slimy mass; a recipe for
slices over Hard-Toasted French the pan, and cook slowly until tender your ow n homemade French bread is on
Bread Rounds ( page 24) . After la- and translucent, about 10 minutes. page 37.
dling the soup into warmed soup Blend in the salt and sugar, raise heat
plates, top with the marrow croutons to moderately high, and let the on-
and a sprinkling of grated Swiss or ions brown, stirring frequently until
Parmesan cheese. they are a dark walnut color, 25 to 30
minutes.
Onion Soup Gratineed (co ntinued) CHOWDERS AND OTHER

FISH SOUPS
For about 2 ½ quarts, serv ing 6
12 or more Hard-Toasted French

Bread Rounds (page 24)
1 to 2 ounces Swiss cheese, very
thinly sliced
A lthough you can serve a cup
of chowder or fish soup to
begin a meal, big bowls of it make a
wonderfully satisfying main course
Ingredients for the preceding French
for informal luncheons and family
Onion Soup, heated
suppers. When you follow with a
¾ to 1 cup finely grated Swiss or Clams fo r chowder
salad and cheese, and finish off with a
Parmesan cheese
fruit dessert, everyone is happy and
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: well fed. One of my favorites is the The salt pork and onions. To freshen
A lightly buttered 3 -quart ovenproof New England chowder with its base the salt pork and remove excess salt;
casserole or baking dish about 3 inches of salt pork, potatoes, milk, and blanch it by simmering in the sauce-
deep-good-looking if possible plenty of onions. Next is the Medi- pan with 1 quart of water for 5 min-
terranean type with its olive oil, on- utes; drain in a sieve and rinse under
Assembling and baking-about 3 0 min- ions, garlic, and tomatoes. We'll start cold water. Saute slowly with the but-
utes. Preheat the oven to 425°F and off with a New England clam chow- ter in the saucepan 5 minutes or so,
set the rack in the lower middle der, but first here's an all-purpose until the pork has rendered fat and
level. Line the bottom of the casse- chowder base to which you add begins to brown. Stir in the onions,
role with half the slices of toasted clams, fish, corn-and it makes a add the bay leaf, cover, and cook
French bread, and spread over them dandy soup just as it is. slowly 8 to 10 minutes, until the on-
the sliced cheese. Ladle on the hot ions are tender and translucent. Turn
onion soup and float over them a them into a sieve to drain out excess
layer of toasted bread, topping with fat , return them to the pan, and
the grated cheese. At once set in the .Jr MASTER RECIPE
blend in crackers or bread crumbs .
preheated oven and bake 2 0 to 3 0
minutes, until the cheese has melted All-Purpose Chowder Base The potatoes. Pour the 4 cups of liq-
and browned nicely. Serve as soon as uid into the onion pan. Add the pota-
possible-if you dally too long, the For about 2 quarts toes, bring to the boil, and simmer,
toast topping may sink into the soup. 2/ 3
cup ( 4 ounces) diced salt pork loosely covered, for 20 minutes.
1 Tbs butter Blend in the milk and/or cream,
3 cups sliced onions bring to the simmer, taste, and cor-
1 bay leaf rect seasoning. (The milk goes in
¾ cup crumbled "common" crackers now to prevent the possibility of .
or pilot biscuit; or crumbs from curdling. )
fresh homemade type white bread
4 cups liquid: clam-steaming juices *Ahead-of-time note: May be com-
and w ater; or water and fish pleted a day in advance. Refrigerate;
stock; or light chicken broth cover when chilled.
1 pound sliced or diced "boiling"
Pork and/or fat-fre e notes: You may
potatoes (3 to 3½ cups)
omit the salt pork, and saute the on-
ions in 3 tablespoons of butter. Or,
2 cups milk and/or light cream
for a fat-free chowder, simmer the
onions in 2 or 3 cups of the stock,
and, when tender, continue with the
recipe.
New England Clam

Chowder
This is the real old New England

type with onions, salt pork, potatoes,
and clams-if you can't buy them
fresh, minced canned clams will do
nicely, or even no clams, because the
soup base is a meal in itself.
TIMING NOTE: Chowders always pick

up added flavor when made several
hours or a day in advance .
For 2 ½ quarts, serving 6 to 8
The clams
24 medium hard-shell chowder
clams, scrubbed and soaked (see
Special Note, page 22)
1 cup water
Ingredients for the preceding All- ew England Clam Chowder
Purpose Chowder Base
Decorative suggestions:
Finishing the chowder. Prepare the NOTE: Common crackers can be or-
2 or 3 whole steamed clams in their chowder base. Meanwhile grind clam dered from a number of New Eng-
shells per person; chopped fresh meats in a processor or chop by land mail-order houses.
parsley hand-you should have 1½ to 2
cups. Fold the clams into the finished
chowder base .
A kettle or large saucepan w ith tight-
Fish Chowder
fitting cover; a 4-quart heavy-bottomed
*Ahead-of-time note: May be com-
saucepan with cover for the chowder; a
pleted in advance to this point. When Like so many regional dishes, there
food processor is useful
cool , cover and refrigerate. is no "authentic" one-and-only genu-
ine recipe for a New England fish
Th e clams. Place the scrubbed and
Serving. Just before serving, bring chowder; however, it should contain
soaked clams in the kettle, add the
the chowder to below the simmer, onions, potatoes, and salt pork along
water, bring to the boil, cover the
thinning out if necessary with more with the fish-which may be fresh or
kettle, and let steam 3 to 4 minutes,
milk-careful here , since clams frozen, as long as it smells and tastes
just until most of the shells have
toughen when overheated or boiled . wonderfully fresh. An ingredi ent that
opened. Remove the opened clams
Taste carefully and correct seasoning. will foster authenticity, though, is
and steam the rest 2 minutes longer,
Serve as is, or decorated as fish stock . You can make a fine chow-
then discard any unopened clams .
suggested. der wi thout it, but here, in the Spe-
Remove the meats to a bowl , and,
cial Note on page 23, is how to go
being careful not to include any sano
Suggested accompaniments: Serve about cooking a fish stock if you live
in the bottom of the kettle, decant the
toasted and buttered split common near the source and can find the only
steaming liquid-which goes into
crackers, chowder crackers, or pilot basic requirement, fish frames-the
your chowder base. heads and bones that are often thrown
biscuit; or English muffins, split ,
toasted, and buttered. out when the fish has been filleted .
Decorative suggestions: New England Fish Bake

SPECIAL NOTE
A dollop of sour cream for each Fish baked with potatoes and onions
serving; a sprinkling of fresh
Chowder Clams chopped parsley As long as we are on a chowder-base
spree, the same general method can
Buying and storing. Choose medium When the potatoes in the chowder be used for oven-baked fish fillets or
chowder clams (quahogs) 2 ½ to 3 base are tender, add the milk and/or thin steaks . In Down-East Maine
inches across, looking each over care- cream and the fish. Simmer 2 to 3 I've eaten it with fresh haddock fil-
full y to be sure the shells feel full, minutes, or just until the fish is lets, first lightly salted and left to
are tightly closed, and are opaque rather than translucent, and cure in the refrigerator overnight-a
undamaged. lightly springy. Taste carefully, and nice touch if it appeals to you. But
correct seasoning. any fish suitable for baking takes well
Purging chowder clams of sand. Scrub to this comfortable rusticity.
the clams individually under cold *Ahead-of-time note: May be com-
water with a vegetable brush, and pleted to this point. When cool, For 6 servings
place them in a large basin. Cover by cover and refrigerate. You ·will take
3 inches with li ghtly salted water- Ingredients for the All-Purpose
your chances keeping it warm on a
1/1 cup of salt per 4 quarts of water. Chowder Base-omit the 4 cups
hot plate because the milk can curdle.
According to m y source, the Fishery of liquid but not the milk
Manual described on page I 14 , 1 Tbs butter
To serve. Ladle into warmed wide
clams close up tight in fresh water, 2 to 2 ½ pounds thick skinless and
soup plates, top with the optional dol-
and will rid themselves of sand only boneless lean fish fillets, or ½-
lop of sour cream and parsley
in salted tap water or sea water. After inch-thick steaks, such as cod,
sprinkle, and accompany with the
30 minutes , remove them with your hake, eastern halibut, ocean
same suggestions as for the preceding
hands to a colander, and if there are pollack, catfish, petrale sole
New England Clam Chowder.
more than a few g rains of sand in the Salt and freshly ground white pepper
bottom of the basin, repeat the pro- 1 cup flour on a plate
cess, repeating again several times as Fresh salt pork fat, clarified butter,
VAR IATIO N or peanut oil
necessary. If you are not to cook them
shortly, refri gerate them, co~ered ½ to 2/3 cup crumbs from fresh
with damp paper towels, in a bowl. Chowder with Dried Codfish homemade type white bread
or Fin nan H addie 2 to 3 Tbs melted butter, optional
Codfish and finnan haddie are won- SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
New England Fish Chowder derful chowder fish. For codfish, I A 10-inch no-stick frying pan; a but-
think it best to de-salt and poach it as tered 2½-quart baking dish, such as a
For 2½ quarts, serving 6 to 8 described on page 13 I; use the 7½ - by 12-inch rectangle 2 inches deep;
poaching liquid in the chowder base, a bulb baster
Ingredients for the All-Purpose and add the fish to the chowder at the
Chowder Base end, just before serving. For finnan The base. Prepare the base with the
2 to 2½ pounds boneless and haddie, poach it first in the milk pork and onions, simmering the
skinless lean fish cut into 2-inch called for, adding more if needed; sliced potatoes in the 2 cups of milk,
chunks, such as cod, hake, add milk and poached fish to the adding a little more if needed.
haddock, monkfish, halibut, chowder base when the potatoes are
ocean pollack, sea bass, catfish- tender. The fish. Meanwhile, prepare the
all one kind or a mixture
fish, which wants a quick saute before
baking; otherwise it exudes too much New England Corn

liquid and waters down the sauce. SPECIAL NOTE
Chowder
Score the fillets on the skin side ( page
81) and season lightly with salt and There's no fish here, but it's the same Simple Fish Stock
pepper. The moment before sauteing, New England base of salt pork, on-
dredge half the fish in the flour and ions, and potatoes. This is a most For 2 quarts or so
shake off excess. Film the pan with a American recipe, and a fine use for 2 or more fine fresh fish frames (3 to
1/16-inch layer of fat, butter, or oil, out-of-season corn on the cob. 4 quarts), see illustration, page 81,
and when very hot saute the fish a as large and meaty as you can
minute on each side. Repeat with the For about 2½ quarts, serving 6 to 8 find, from lean fish such as sole,
remaining fish. flounder,cod,hake,haddock,sea
Ingredients for the All-Purpose
bass, halibut
Assembling. Spread half of the pota- Chowder Base
2½ to 3 quarts lightly salted water
toes and onions in the buttered bak- 10 to 12 ears of fresh com, grated;
ing dish. Arrange over them the fish or 2½ to 3 cups (20 to 24 ounces)
cream-style canned or frozen
Wash the fish frames, cut out and
in a slightly overlapping layer. Cover discard the gills ( pairs of feathery
with the remaining potatoes and pour corn
red tissues attached to either side of
on any milk remaining in the pan. Optional additions: the throat). Whack the head and
Spread the bread crumbs over all; 2 red or green bell peppers, chopped bones into pieces that will fit into a
drizzle on the optional butter. and sauteed briefly in butter; sour roomy kettle . Pour in the water to
cream for topping the chowder cover and bring to the boil. Skim off
*Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared scum for the few minutes it continues
several hours ahead to this point; The chowder. When the potatoes in to rise; cover loosely and simmer 20
cover and refrigerate. the chowder base are tender, stir in minutes . Strain, and that is all there
the milk or cream, the corn, and the is to a fish stock.
Baking 35 to 40 minutes at 400°F. optional sauteed peppers. Bring to
About 45 minutes before serving, set the simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, and *Ahead-of-time note: Refrigerate;
in the upper middle level of a pre- correct seasoning. cover when cold. The stock will keep
heated 400°F oven and bake, tipping a day or two, or may be frozen.
the dish and basting with accumu- *Ahead-of-time note: May be com-
lated liquid once or twice. It is done pleted to this point. When cool,
when bubbling throughout and the cover and refrigerate .
crumbs have begun to brown lightly.
soups have to be the traditional bouil-
Do not overcook or the fish will dr y Serving . Ladle into warmed soup labaisse, which is a real production
out. cups or plates , top with optional dol- with its whole fish served on a platter
lops of sour cream, and accompany and its soup in a tureen. Much easier
Suggested accompaniments: A salad or with hot biscuits, crackers, or melba to cook, serve, and eat, but equally
coleslaw, or fresh spinach steamed toast. magnificent in taste , are chunks of
and buttered, plus French bread or
fish simmered in a Mediterranean
hot biscuits. What white wine to
soup base . Serve with red garlic
server A Macon, Chablis, or sauvi-
sauce-the classic rouille-toasted
gnon, a chenin blanc or riesling, or MEDITERRANEAN FISH rounds of French bread , and you
perhaps a blush wine.
SO UPS have a first-rate main course. Here's
the typical soup base with its nos-
With thi s heady base of olive oil , on- talgic aromas of garlic, onions, olive
ions, garlic, saffron , and tomatoes al- oil, and tomatoes.
most any fish will take on a Proven~al
flavor. But not all Mediterranean
ill
.._., MASTER RECIPE
SPECIAL N OTE
All-Purpose Mediterranean
Soup Base Hard-Toasted French Bread
Rounds: Croutes
For about 3 quarts
For 18 rounds
½ cup fruity olive oil
2 cups sliced onions I loaf of French bread 16 inches
8 large cloves of unpeeled garlic, long-the homemade type with
chopped body
3 cups chopped fresh tomatoes, ½ cup or so olive oil, optional
cored but unpeeled 1 cup grated Parmesan, hard Jack,
2 cups canned Italian plum tomatoes or Swiss cheese, optional
Seasonings: ½ tsp thyme, ¼ tsp
fennel seeds, 3 pinches saffron Slice the bread into rounds ¼ inch
threads (or ¼ tsp turmeric), and a thick, arrange in one layer on a bak-
3- by 1-inch piece of dried orange ing sheet or sheets, and dry out for
peel ( or ½ tsp bottled dried peel) 25 to 30 minutes in a preheated Santa Barbara Fi sh Stew
2 quarts liquid: fish stock (page 23) , 325°F oven, until a light brown and
or water plus bottled clam juice or crisp through. If you wish, baste
Santa Barbara Fish Stew
chicken broth wi th the olive oi l halfway through the
Salt and freshly ground pepper to baking. As a final touch, again if you
This appeared on one of our "Din-
taste wish , spread the toasted rounds with
ner" TV shows, taped in Santa Bar-
a !/-1--inch layer of grated cheese,
SPEC IAL EQU IPM ENT SUGGESTED: bara, and I' ve kept the name here as
drizzle on a few drops of oil, and
A 6-quart heavy-bottomed kettle a reminder that you can make a fine
brown lightly under the broiler.
Medi terranean-type fish soup any-
Heat the oli ve oil in the kettle, add where, as long as you have the mak-
*Ahead-of-time note: May be done in
the oni ons, and saute 8 to 10 min- ings for that colorful base.
advance and kept in a warming oven
utes, stirring frequently, until tender for an hour, or wrap and freeze
but not brown. Stir in the garlic, to- For 2 ½ quarts, serving 6 to 8
them.
matoes, and seasoni ngs; simmer 3 to The preceding All-Purpose
4 minutes, th en pour in the liquid. Mediterranean Soup Base
Salt lightly to taste, and boil slowly, 2 to 2½ pounds skinless and
loosely covered , for 45 minutes . boneless lean fish cut into 2-inch
Strain , pressing juices out of the in- chunks, such as cod, hake,
g redients, and return the resulti ng halibut, sea bass, monkfish,
liquid to the pan. Taste carefully for catfish, snapper-can be all one
seasonrng .
kind, but a variety is preferable
*Ahead-of-time note: Refrige r ate;
2 or 3 Hard-Toasted French Bread
cove r when cold. Will keep several
Rounds per serving (see recipe
days; may be frozen.
preceding)
from homemade type fresh white The sauce. Puree the garlic in a heavy
Red Garlic Sauce: Rouille bread bowl, add the salt, and pound into a
2 to 3 Tbs hot soup (or milk) paste. Continue pounding while add-
This marvelous sauce for all garlic 3 egg yolks ing the herbs; when well mashed and
lovers makes any fine fish soup even 1/3 cup canned red pimientos, drained
blended, pound in the bread crumbs
more splendid. Use it also on pasta , ¾ to 1 cup fruity olive oil and soup base or milk. When they
boiled potatoes , boiled fish, poached Drops of hot pepper sauce have formed a paste, pound in the
eggs-on anything, in fact, that Salt and freshly ground pepper egg yolks. At this point switch to the
would enjoy being associated with a electric beater or a whisk, and beat a
big touch of garlic and pimiento. You SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: minute or more, until thicker and
could, of course, add chili peppers, A mortar and pestle, or a heavy bowl sticky. Finally, start beating in the oil
but I shall leave it for you to provide and pounding instrument of some sort; a by small driblets, as though making a
that touch of the great American garlic press and hand-held electric mayonnaise. This should be a thick,
Southwest. beater are useful heavy sauce. Season to taste with the
pepper sauce, and salt and pepper.
MANUFACTURI G NOTE: It is essen-
For 1 ½ cups, serving 6 to 8
tial here that the garlic be pureed into a
6 large cloves of garlic, peeled
*Ahead-of-time note: May be made a
fine paste-the food processor or blender
day in advance; cover and refriger-
¼ tsp salt chops rather than purees. Although you
ate. Let come to room temperature
18 or so large leaves of fresh basil, could use the processor rather than
before stirring up, to avoid possible
or 1½ tsp dried savory, oregano, mixer at the point where you add the
curdling.
or thyme egg yolks and oil, it hardly seems
¾ cup lightly pressed down crumbs w orthwhile for a small quantity of
sauce.
1 ½ cups Red Garlic Sauce (see *Ahead-of-time note: May be kept

recipe above) warm (b ut not near the simmer) for
1 cup chopped fresh parsley half an hour or so on an electric hot
1 ½ cups grated Parmesan or hard plate, but be very careful that the fish
Jack cheese does not overcook.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: Serving. Place 2 or 3 rounds of hard-

A 6-quart heavy-bottomed saucepan or toasted French bread in each warmed
soup kettle with cover wide soup plate, top with a spoonful
of the rouille, ladle on fish, then
The soup base . While completing the soup, and finish with a sprinkling of
soup base as directed, prepare the parsley. Pass the grated cheese
fish. Bring the soup base to the boil separately.
shortly before serving.
Adding the fish. Fold the fish into the

soup base, bring to the boil again,
and boil slowly 2 to 3 minutes, just
until the fish is opaque rather than
translucent, and lightly springy to the
touch . Correct seasoning.
VARIATIONS Mediterranean Fish in Aspic The aspic . Following the illustrated

details on page 16 , strain the soup
Soupe de Poisson Provenr;ale Here is a beautiful idea for a sum- liquid into a stainless saucepan , and
Puree of Mediterranean Fish Soup mer luncheon, an aspic showing forth degrease it -you should have about 6
all the fine flavors of Provence, cups. Beat 1 cup of it g radually into
You'll see this more often than a served with a red garlic sauce. It's a the egg whites, and whi sk it g radu-
bouillabaisse in bistros on the Medi- free-form idea, and here is how this ally back into the sauce pan. Bring al-
terranean coast. It has the same soup particular version is done-it's a most to the simmer, whi sking , and
base, but the best and fanciest are good idea to start it the day before, without stirring again let it sit over
made of tiny rockfish. However, use since an aspic cannot be hurried . It the heat 15 minutes, rotating the pan
any reasonably priced fish like ocean takes its own time to chill and set a quarter turn twice as the egg whites
pollack (or fresh fish heads, like cod during its various stages. d raw the cloudy particles to them
or hake), whatever is lean (not mack- while coagulating. Carefull y ladle
erel!), fresh smelling, and For 2 ½ quarts, serving 8 to 10 th rough a sieve lined with 3 thick-
. .
mexpens1ve. nesses of damp washed cheesecloth.
Ingredients for the Santa Barbara W hile still warm , stir in the di s-
For 2 ½ quarts, serving 6 to 8 Fish Stew solved gelatin. You should have a
4 egg whites(½ to 213 cup) lovely, clear, pink-tinged , and deli-
Ingredients for the preceding Santa ¼ cup unflavored gelatin dissolved in
cious li quid.
Barbara Fish Stew a small bowl with 1/3 cup dry
white wine or French vermouth Assembling. P our ½ inch of the aspic
4 cooked shrimp into the mold ; chill until set. Halve
A vegetable mill with medium blade
213 cup diced red pimiento tossed with the shrimp horizontally, and arrange
½ tsp olive oil
Do not strain the finished soup base; deco ratively over the aspic layer.
1 medium clove of garlic pureed with Chill ½ cup of aspic until almost set.
add the fish to it and simmer 3 or 4
¼ tsp salt (page 350)
minutes, then puree through the veg- Meanwhile, mi x together the pi-
½ cup chopped fresh parsley
etable mill into another saucepan or a miento and garlic. Fold the chilled
Salt and freshly ground pepper aspic into the flaked fi sh along with
hot soup tureen. To serve, ladle the
6 to 8 slices of tomato, halved the pimiento and parsley. Taste , and
soup onto rouille-topped toasted
crosswise, chilled correct seasoning; chill if necessar y.
bread rounds.
Red Garlic Sauce (see Special Note, Spoon the chilled fish mixture into
page 25)
the mold , keeping a 3/s-inch space
between it and the side of the mold .
Chill the remaining aspic until al-
A 6-cup mold or dish to hold the aspic
most set; pour it around and on top
of the fi sh . Cover and refrigerate for
The fish. Make the soup base as de-
severaJ hours .
scribed in the master recipe, and
poach the fish in it. Let it steep in the
Serving. Unmold the aspic onto a
soup base for 20 minutes or longer,
chilled platter, and decorate with the
to pick up its flavor. Remove and
halved tomato slices . Accompany
drain the fish, flake it with a fork,
and refrigerate in a covered bowl. with the sauce, a bowl of black Med-
iterranean olives, French bread, and
a tossed g reen salad. A chilled Cha-
bli s or Alsatian riesling would go
nicely, or a cool r ed wine , like a light
Beauj olais or G amay.
SPECIAL NOTE
To Unmold an Aspic
Always mold an aspic in a metal bowl

or mold; metal reacts quickly to hot
and cold, and that's what you want
for easy unmolding.
Hot Water Method. Have a chilled

serving platter at your side. Fill a
much larger bowl with very hot
water, and dip the mold in it-up to
as near the rim of the mold as you
dare-for several seconds. Remove
the mold and rapidly run a small thin
sharp knife around the inside edge
between the aspic and the mold. Turn
the platter upside down over the
mold and reverse the two, giving the
mold a sharp downward shake and a
slap on the bottom. If the aspic does
not budge, repeat, and repeat again if
necessar y, running the knife around
the edge of the aspic again, and cov-
ering the mold with several thick-
nesses of towel dipped in very hot
water. (Too many repeats, of course,
and you'll melt the aspic.) Refriger-
ate the unmolded aspic for 10 min-
utes or so, covered with an upturned
bowl, then clean up any congealed
dribbles.
Mediterranean Fish in Aspic

Blowtorch M ethod. A blowtorch is not
just for laughs-it is a legitimate
kitchen tool, and marvelous for loos-
ening aspics from their molds. Buy a
portable torch with an instant self-
igniting nozzle that attaches to a
small propane bottle. For aspics,
loosen the edges of the aspic from
around the bowl with a knife, turn
the aspic mold upside down on the
chilled platter, and run the flame
around the sides and bottom of the
bowl for several seconds.
A SELECT GROUP OF
NON SEQUITURS
T he following group of soups

could only fit into the master
plan of theme and variations by
stretching the fabric too far, and are
best presented as the individuals they
wish to be. Here, for instance, is
soup cooked and served in a pumpkin
shell, and another that is enriched
with a special garlic and basil sauce.
There is also the full-dressed garlic
soup, that wonderfully fragrant Aigo
Bou'ido from Provence. Black Bean
Gazpacho is followed by a tripe and
bean soup that can also turn itself into
the Mexican menudo. These are
hearty soups, rib stickers, that make
the grade as main courses.
Pumpkin soup in a pumpkin
Soup in a Pumpkin
2½ cups lightly pressed down fresh pumpkin in the oven; a long-handled
Choose a fine solid pumpkin, scrape crumbs from homemade type ladle for serving
it clean, fill it with a hot soup mix- white bread, crust off
ture, and bake it until the pumpkin is 2 cups minced onions The bread crumbs and onions. Spread
tender, and a little of the pumpkin 4 ounces ( 1 stick) butter, plus 2 Tbs the crumbs in a roasting pan and dry
flesh goes into each serving . It's a de- or so soft butter them out in a 3 5 0°F oven for I 5
lightful beginning to any fall dinner, A 6- to ?-pound healthy and minutes or so, once or twice tossing
particularly the Thanksgiving feast . unblemished pumpkin them about-they should hardly
But be sure to choose a pumpkin to 1 ½ cups coarsely grated Swiss color. Meanwhile, melt the stick of
fit your oven-or vice versa! cheese butter and slowly cook the minced
2 to 2½ quarts chicken stock, onions in it until the onions are per-
SEASONAL NOTE: Pumpkins will keep
brought to the simmer fectly tender and translucent-about
perfectly well for a number of weeks in Seasonings: salt, freshly ground 15 minutes; toss the crumbs into the
a cool place, but they collapse overnight pepper, ½ tsp sage onions and cook, stirring, for 3
in freezing temperatures. 1 cup heavy cream (or sour cream minutes.
liquefied with a little milk or
For a pumpkin serving 8 to IO people stock), desirable but optional Preparing the pumpkin. Cut a neat
½ cup lightly pressed down chopped cover out of the pumpkin, scrape out
fresh parsley the seeds and strings, and rub the in-
ner flesh of both the pumpkin shell
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: and its cover with the soft butter. Set
A lightly buttered pizza pan to hold the the pumpkin on the pizza pan.
*Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared base and the sauce may be prepared A large pinch of saffron threads, or
in advance to this point. Preheat the hours ahead, but to preserve its ½ tsp fragrant curry powder
oven before proceeding. freshness, the green vegetable gar- Freshly ground pepper
nish is added only at the end. A little boiling water, if needed
Baking the soup-about 1 ½ hours at
400°F. Turn the crumb mixture into The soup gets its name from the SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
the pumpkin, stir in the grated sauce, whose garlic and basil in the A 4-quart saucepan or kettle for the
cheese, and fill the pumpkin to old Provern;al days were pounded to a soup; a soup tureen and ladle for serv-
within 2 inches of its top with hot paste in a mortar with a pestle-in an ing-optional but attractive
chicken stock. Season to taste with operation known as the pistou. A
salt, pepper, and sage. Set the pump- pesto, by the way, is the Italian ver- The soup base-about 40 minutes.
kin at once in the lower level of a sion of the French Mediterranean Place the listed ingredients in the
preheated 400°F oven. Bake until the pistou . Fresh basil is marvelous and kettle, bring to the simmer, skim off
pumpkin has just softened-but do typical here, but if you can't get it scum for several minutes, then cover
not overcook, or it will collapse! there are secondary wintry choices. partially and simmer until the vege-
tables are tender.
*Ahead-of-time note: You may keep it For 6 to 8 servings
warm for half an hour or so in a *Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared
The soup base in advance; chill uncovered, then
17 5°F oven until ready to serve-too
much heat and too long a wait will 3 quarts water cover and refrigerate. Bring to the
dangerously soften the pumpkin. 2 Tbs salt simmer before proceeding.
2 cups peeled and diced carrots
2 cups peeled and diced "boiling" The Pistou Sauce. While the soup base
To serve. Just before serving, bring
the optional cream almost to the sim- potatoes is simmering, make the sauce as de-
2 cups diced white part of leeks and/ scribed in the Special Note on the
mer; gently stir it into the soup, fol-
lowed by the chopped parsley. or omons next page.
If available: 2 cups fresh white
Correct seasoning. At the table, ladle
the soup into hot bowls, scraping off beans or speckled fresh cranberry Final additions- IO to 15 minutes.
some of the flesh from inside the beans (otherwise add 3 cups of Add the remaining ingredients ( ex-
cooked or canned white beans cept the boiling water) to the sim-
pumpkin as you do so.
and their juices with the final mering soup, and boil slowly
additions, later) uncovered until the green vegetables
are tender. Stir in a little boiling
Soupe au Pistou 1¼ cups Pistou Sauce (see Special water if the soup seems too thick.
Provenc;al vegetable soup with a cheese, Note the next page) Carefully correct seasoning, and the
garlic, and basil finish 2 cups diced fresh green beans soup is ready for the pistou.
1/3 cup small pasta shapes, or
This wonderfully fragrant brew of spaghetti broken into ½-inch Serving . Turn the pistou sauce into
mixed vegetables starts with a base of pieces the warmed soup tureen, stir in a
potatoes, carrots, leeks, onions, Optional additions: 1 to 2 cups diced ladleful of soup, then stir in the
beans, and herbs all simmered to- fresh zucchini; and/or cored, rest-or top each bowl with a big
gether; fresh green beans and other seeded and diced green or red bell spoonful of the pistou. Serve at once,
seasonable tender vegetables then go peppers; and/or fresh green accompanied by French bread or
in, and the soup is finally blended peas-one or all Hard-Toasted French Bread Rounds
with its garlic-flavored sauce. The 1 slice of stale homemade type white ( page 24 ).
bread, crumbed
Ai:go -Boui:do *Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared

SPECIAL NOTE in advance; chill uncovered, then
Garlic Soup
cover and refrigerate or freeze.
Pistou Sauce Here is another famous Mediterra- Bring to the simmer shortly before
nean soup, and if you didn't know serving .
Use this fragrant flavoring idea in what it was made of you'd wonder
other dishes such as the Beef and what this subtle her bal wonder-broth The fin al liaison. Whisk the egg yolks
Vegetable Soup on page 16, and it is could possibly be. It is simple indeed in the soup tureen or a mixing bowl
delicious with hot pasta and rice to make, as you will see. for a minute or two until thick and
dishes. This pistou is much like the sticky; by droplets, whisk in the olive
Rouille served with bouillabaisse in For about 2¼ quarts, serving 6 to 8 oil to make a thick , mayonnaise-like
the Special Note on page 25-in fact cream .
the two are interchangeable. The soup base
1 or 2 large heads of garlic (2 heads Serving. Just before serving, and by
For about 1 ¼ cups are not too much!), the unpeeled dribbles, beat a ladleful of hot soup
cloves separated and smashed into the egg yolk liaison; gradually
4 or more large cloves of garlic
2 quarts water whisk in the rest. Serve immediately,
¼ tsp salt
Seasonings: 2 tsp salt, a big pinch of passing the bread and cheese
¼ cup chopped fresh basil leaves, or
freshly ground white pepper, 2 separately.
1 ½ Tbs fragrant dried basil or
whole cloves, ¼ tsp each sage and
oregano
thyme, 1 medium imported bay
¼ cup tomato paste
leaf, 6 parsley sprigs
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese VAR IATION
3 Tbs fruity olive oil
½ cup fruity olive oil
¼ cup lightly pressed down chopped Final liaison Provenral Garlic and
fresh parsley 3 egg yolks Chicken Soup
¼ cup olive oil
Puree the garlic into a mortar or Ingredients for the preceding Garlic
Accompaniments
mixing bowl. With a pestle or the Soup
back of a wooden spoon, mash to a Hard-Toasted French Bread
2 skinless and boneless chicken
fine paste with the salt. Then mash in Rounds (page 24)
breasts
the basil or other herbs. Next, blend 1 cup grated Parmesan or Swiss
A handful of chopped fresh parsley
in the tomato paste and cheese. Fi- cheese
nally, with a wire whip, whisk in the W hile the soup base is simmering,
oil by dribbles to make a thick paste. cut the chicken breasts into small
A 3-quart saucepan with cover; a soup
Blend in the parsley shortly before slices, ½ -inch dice , or julienne.
tureen is attractive but not essential
serving. After straining the soup base, add the
chicken and let simmer 4 to 5 min-
The soup base. Combine all the listed
*Ahead-of-time note: If made in ad- utes. F inish the soup as described,
ingredients in the saucepan, bring to
vance, cover and keep at cool room whisking the liquid into the egg yolk
the boil, and simmer partially cov-
temperature-it may separate if liaison, and folding in the chicken
ered 3 0 minutes . Strain into a bowl,
chilled. and parsley.
pressing juices out of the ingredients,
and return to the saucepan. Cor rect
seasonrng.
\
I_
Proven9al Garlic and Suggested accompaniments, each in a

Fish Soup small bowl-use some or all.
Ingredients for the Garlic Soup 2 cucumbers, peeled, seeded, and

1 pound (2 cups) chowder-type fish diced
such as cod, hake, halibut, 3 hard-boiled eggs, chopped and
pollack, red snapper, sea scallops tossed with a little salt and freshly
A handful of chopped fresh parsley ground pepper
2 green bell peppers, finely diced
Follow the recipe for the preceding 2 cups diced tomatoes (fresh
Provenc;al Garlic and Chicken Soup, tomatoes peeled, seeded, juiced,
simmering the fish only I to 2 and diced, page 358)
minutes. 2 cups toasted croutons (page 24)
1 cup or so crumbled crisp bacon

Proven9 al Garlic Soup with A 3-quart heavy-bottomed saucepan, or
Poached Eggs Black Bean Gazpacho
a pressure cooker; a food processor or
vegetable mill for pureeing the soup
6 to 8 warm poached eggs
Ingredients for the Garlic Soup, but Black Bean Gazpacho The soup. Wash and pick over the
omit the egg yolk and olive oil beans to remove any debris. Bring
liaison Guests love to add condiments to
them to the boil in the saucepan with
A handful of chopped fresh parsley their dishes-consider all the fasci-
the 4 quarts of water; boil exactly 2
nating tidbits that go into a curry-
minutes, then cover the pan and set
Place a warm poached egg on a so let them have fun with their black
them aside for exactly 1 hour. (If
toasted bread round in each warmed bean soup. Since the Spaniards make
beans give you digestive complaints,
soup bowl, ladle on the soup, and top a white gazpacho with ground al-
pour out the water and add fresh cold
with a sprinkling of parsley; pass ad- monds, it seems legitimate to make a
water.) Bring to the simmer, adding
ditional bread rounds and the cheese dark gazpacho with black beans,
the onions, celery, carrots, and salt.
separately. which you may serve hot or cold ac-
Either simmer slowly, partially cov-
companied by its colorful garnish.
ered, for 1½ hours or so, until the
MANUFACTURING NOTE: Use a good
beans are tender; or pressure-cook
brand of canned black bean soup if you
for 5 minutes and let the pressure go
Proven9al Garlic and
do not want to make your own as de-
down by itself. Puree the beans with
Potato Soup their liquid, adding a little chicken
scribed here.
stock or water if too thick.
Ingredients for the Garlic Soup
3 cups sliced "boiling" potatoes For 2 quarts of soup, serving 6 people
A big pinch of saffron threads, or
The bean soup in advance; chill uncovered, then
1 tsp fragrant curry powder,
2 cups black beans cover and refrigerate.
optional
4 quarts water
After simmering and straining the 2 cups chopped onions Serving. Bring the soup to the sim-
soup base, add the potatoes and op- ½ cup each chopped celery and mer, adding again a little more
tional saffron or curry; bring to the carrots chicken stock or water if the puree
boil and simmer about IO minutes, 1 tsp salt seems too thick, and taste again very
or until the potatoes are tender. Fin- A little chicken stock or water, if carefully for seasoning. Ladle into
ish the soup as directed. needed warmed wide bowls and pass the ac-
companiments separately.
Soupe aux Haricots et a la 1 cup chopped unpeeled tomatoes, Cooking-overnight or longer. Turn
Tripe cores removed, or ¾ cup canned the tripe into the Crock-pot or casse-
Tripe and White Bean Soup Italian plum tomatoes role, adding the optional bones or
4 cups beef stock or bouillon trotters, the onions, garlic, tomatoes,
A wonderful main-course soup for Seasonings: salt, freshly ground stock, and enough water to cover the
tripe lovers, and it's a happy initia- pepper, thyme or oregano, I large ingredients by 2 inches. Bring to the
tion for neophytes. This is a close imported bay leaf simmer either in the Crock-pot or on
cousin to the Mexican menudo , but 2 cups cooked or canned kidney top of the stove, season lightly, and
uses beans rather than hominy- beans with their juices add the herbs. Cover closely, and
which you can, of course, substitute 1 Tbs red wine vinegar, or to taste cook at medium heat or 27 5°F-
for the beans as described in the vari- Suggested accompaniments (any or adjusting the heat so the tripe si m-
ations. I have suggested some Mexi- all): 2 hard-boiled eggs, chopped; mers very slowly. Cook slowly until
canesque accompaniments, which go ½ cup chopped scallions or red the tripe is tender, adding boiling
very nicely here, as would a red wine onion; 1 cup fresh tomato relish water if the liquid is low-test by
such as a Beaujolais, Cotes du Rhone, (page 359) or salsa (page 200) analytically chewing a piece or two.
a zinfandel, or a Spanish rioja . and/or chopped mild or hot Remove and discard the package of
peppers; Hard-Toasted French bones or trotters (if using pig's trot-
MANUFACTURING NOTE: There's no Bread Rounds (page 24) or ters, you may wish to add the meat to
telling how long it takes tripe to cook so Cheese-Toasted Tortillas (see the tripe; discard the remains). Add
that it is properly tender- 5 to 7 Special Note, page 33) the beans, si mmer another ½ hour,
hours, and sometimes 12 , of very slow and correct seasoning.
simmering. A Crock-pot (slow cooker) SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
works well for tripe, which w ill always A large square of double-thickness w ell- *Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared
be somewhat chewy but should not be washed cheesecloth if using the bones; a in advance; chill uncovered, then
disagreeably so. Although I'v e had suc- Crock-pot is useful, or a bean pot or cover and refrigerate.
cess at times adding tripe to beans, I flam eproof casserole, or any 3- to 4-
conclude it's best to cook each separately quart covered casserole or baking dish Serving. Ladle into warmed wide
and combine near the end. about 3 inches deep soup bowls and pass the accompani-
ments separately.
For about 2 ½ quarts, serving 6 Preparing the tripe . Wash the tripe
and cut it with shears into strips 1
2 pounds ready-to-cook honeycomb
inch wide; cut the strips into longish
tripe VA RIATIO N
triangles, and drop into a large sauce-
1 veal knuckle or 2 pig's trotters,
pan of cold water. Wash the optional
optional
veal knuckle or pig's trotters, and Hominy or Chick-Pea
4 cups sliced onions (1 ¼ pounds) Variation
add to the tripe. Bring to the boil,
3 or 4 large cloves of garlic, peeled
simmer 3 minutes, drain, and rinse.
and chopped Omit the beans and substitute 2 to 3
Remove the optional bones or trot-
ters, tie in cheesecloth (to keep all the cups of drained and rinsed canned
little bones out of the broth), and re- hominy or chick-peas in the preced-
serve. Blanch the tripe several times ing tripe soup.
again if you wish to remove more of
its tripe-iness.
Fresh Corn Variation

SPECIAL NOTE
Cut the kernels from 2 or 3 ears of

boiled fresh corn, and warm them up Cheese-Toasted Tortillas las are beginning to crisp. Remove
for several minutes in the soup be- and turn them over; paint lightly
fore serving-or use frozen corn For 6 servings, to go with main-course with the olive oil, ~prinkle lightly
kernels. soups or for a cocktail snack with salt and the optional herbs.
Spread a teaspoon of cheese over
6 flour tortillas 8 to 9 inches across
each. Return to the oven for 3 to 4
(or 9 smaller tortillas)
minutes, until the cheese has melted
2 Tbs olive oil
With Mini Sausage Cakes and has barely begun to brown.
A little salt
1 Tbs or so dried herbs such as
Dipping your hands into cold water *Ahead-of-time note: They will keep
thyme, oregano, or Italian herb
for each, form miniature sausage in an airtight container for a few
mixture, optional
cakes, page 257, about 1 inch days, or wrap and freeze them. Re-
3 to 4 Tbs finely grated hard Jack or
across-you'll want 4 to 6 per per- crisp in the oven if necessary.
other grating cheese such as
son, and about ¼ pound of sausage Parmesan, Romano, or Swiss
meat. Saute them to brown nicely,
and add to the soup to heat through SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: VARIATION
for 10 minutes before serving. 2 large baking sheets; a pastry brush
Cheese-Toasted Pita B read
Baking. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Cut the tortillas into halves or quar- Use the same formula for pita bread,
OTHER SOUPS ters, and arrange in one layer on bak- first trimming off the circumference
IN OTHER CHAPTERS ing sheets. Bake 7 to 9 minutes in the with shears so that you can separate
upper-third and middle levels of the them into 2 layers. Halve or quarter
preheated oven, switching sheets
A
them, and bake them inner sides up.
number of other soups ap- halfway through, just until the tortil-
pear where their main ingre-
dient lies:
Lobster Stew on page 108 is a logical

continuation of the lobster saute.
Mussel Soup, page 121, with its vari-

ations, Oyster Bisque and Monterey
Bay Sole Food Stew, follows very log-
ically the steaming of mussels in
wme.
Scotch Broth, page 215, with its lamb

stock and barley, is fittingly part of
boning and butterflying a leg, while
Split Pea Soup, page 233, and the re-
mains of the ham are inseparable.
Breads
French Bread, Whole Wheat, Rye,
and Walnut Breads
Hamburger Buns, Rolls,

and Sandwich Bread
Spiced Dough for Coffee Cake

and Sticky Buns
Pizza, Calzone~
and Buttermilk Cornsticks
Bread making is for those who love and no matter how often and how and I have also included three favor-
to cook and to work with their hands. many kinds of bread one has made, ite whole-grain loaves, as well as
There is a deep satisfaction to be there always seems to be something brioche dough for spiced bread.
gained from the feel and smell of the new to learn. Tired of mushy hamburger buns and
dough as it is kneaded and formed, Although French bread and a soggy pizza crusts? I hope you will
from that wonderful warm aroma of number of other breads appear in find the solutions to these problems
its baking, and finally from the pride Mastering II and in Kitchen, the reci- here, starting out with a few hints
of authorship. The art of bread mak- pes here speed up the process by from an old-time home baker.
ing can become a consuming hobby, using the food processor-a real
boon to the bread maker. I am partic-
ularly pleased with our full photo-
grap~ic coverage of French bread,
DON'T MURDER THE If your dough won't rise. You've given Kneading. The main ingredients of
YEAST AND OTHER it an hour or more, and it hasn't flour are starch and gluten. It's the
RANDOM NOTES budged-but have you left it long starch in the dough that feeds upon
enough? Is it cold? Or is the room the yeast, belching forth gas that
cold ( 6 0°F or lower), so the yeast is pushes up the gluten. I think of a
F ollowing are some personal

hints I've picked up through
the years.
somnolent? If so, put the dough in a
warmer place-set your bowl in the
oven, turn it on for 1½ to 2 min-
utes, turn it off, and close the door.
well-kneaded dough as being like a
fine-meshed plastic sponge, the glu-
ten forming the web that holds it in
shape. The purpose of kneading is
Yeast is alive . Dry-active yeast figures If the dough still lies dormant, per- not only to blend all the dough ingre-
in all the dough recipes here just for haps you killed the yeast by dissolv- dients together, but to join the gluten
convenience, but fresh yeast may be ing it in too-warm water. Or was it particles into that continuous web.
used in its place. Store fresh yeast dead to begin with? Break out some You can tell when you have kneaded
cakes in either the refrigerator or the new yeast, prove it to make sure, mix enough when you hold the ball of
freezer. Fresh yeast is healthy as long it into the dough, and start again. A dough between your hands and bend
as it is firm and of an even gray heavy-duty mixer or food processor it downward-it is smooth and elas-
color; if it becomes soft or discol- will be faster than elbow grease in tic, and it holds its shape.
ored, toss it out. Store dry-active this case, and your bread may be
yeast in the refrigerator, too, but for even better because it has had time to Hand kneading versus machine knead-
longer storage use the freezer-I've develop character. ing. I don't think it makes any differ-
kept it frozen alive_and well for a ence what system you use as long as
year or more. I deal rising temperature. If you let you produce a properly kneaded
your dough rise in too warm a dough. There is certainly an elemen-
How much yeast to use. In general, place-over 8 0°F, for instance- tal and intimate pleasure in kneading
you'll want 1 package (a scant table- you'll get a lot of hot air but little fla- by hand, but it takes time. The hand-
spoon of dry-active yeast or ½ ounce vor and texture. A longer rise at crank bread bucket and the heavy-
of fresh cake yeast) per pound or 3 ½ 7 S°F, or even 7 0°F, gives the best duty mixer with dough hook are tol-
cups of flour. However, I have used results. erably satisfactory, but to my mind
that same amount for 6 cups of flour the best system is to start with a food
with perfect success . A smaller pro- You've let the dough over-rise, and it processor and to finish by hand. Then
portion of yeast makes a slightly has fermented. Don't throw it out. You you get the best of both worlds. The
longer rise, of course, but a leisurely can still make beautiful bread because food processor does a fast job of mix-
· rise gives better texture and flavor. the fermented dough will act like an ing and preliminary kneading but it
old-fashioned "levain," or starter. If does cut the gluten strands; however,
Proving yeast. If you've had dry- it's only slightly strong and yeasty, the hand-kneaded finish rejoins them
active yeast for some time, always use an equal amount of flour, water, quickly and easily. You'll note rest
make it show you it's alive: dissolve a and so forth for a new batch; if quite periods in the recipes to come-these
package or tablespoon of it in 3 table- strong, use twice the amount. Mix allow the flour particles to absorb the
spoons of warm water ( not over the required liquid into the old liquid in the dough, and make for
110°F-too much heat will kill it). dough-a food processor or heavy- more efficient kneading.
Whisk in a tablespoon of flour or duty mixer is useful here, and you
¼ teaspoon of sugar so it will have may well have to mix it in 2 or 3 The free-form loaf vs. the bread pan. A
something to eat. In about 5 minutes batches. Then knead in the flour, hand-formed loaf that bakes free in
it should begin to foam. It's alive! salt, etc., but no yeast-your fer- the oven is certainly appealing, espe-
mented dough will do the work. cially for French bread. But when
You'll probably produce a bread with
much more character and texture
than usual.
JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK BREADS 37
must. A passionate baker since his

apprenticeship as a seventeen-year-
old, he is now in his late seventies,
having taught for years at the Ecole
Professionelle de la Meunerie. At
this writing he is still experimenting,
still perfecting, always with a view to
adapting the ideal of "le bon pain
frarn;ais" to modern conditions.
Since those early days with him I

have also had the good fortune to
consult with one of his most talented
pupils, the American baker Danielle
Forestier. And I, too, have evolved
in my own way-as do all home
bread makers. These, then, are my
findings to date.
Manufacturing Notes:
Baking equipment. Although you can

you have a heavy low-gluten dough, FRENCH BREAD DOUGH bake your bread on a pastry sheet or
such as the buttermilk rye on page in a bread pan, you will not get the
F
46, the pan produces a handsomer big puffy loaf. For that fine effect you
loaf than the free-form, which in this lour, water, yeast, and salt- must transform your home oven into
case tends not to puff very much in those four elements alone are a baker's oven by lining your oven
the oven. the official components of French rack either with ceramic quarry tiles
bread. A fine loaf of it is crusty out- ½ inch thick or with a baking or
Baking- when is it done? An underside while the inside is a creamy off- pizza stone. You can find tiles in most
done loaf has a slightly damp inte- white with an open , rather chewy building supply stores and you'll see
rior, and the unsatisfactory taste of texture. It is not baked in a pan-it both tiles and baking stones in some
insufficiently cooked dough. Unless stands free in the oven, held in shape of the specialty stores and mail-order
you are a professional, thumping to by its own gluten cloak, created by catalogues. You will also need a sys-
hear a hollow sound is not good the very special way you form it. tem for creating steam, plus a board
enough. The sure way is to take its for unmolding the risen loaf and
temperature in the oven, with an in- My experiences began in the l 960's, transferring it to a baker's peel or
stant meat thermometer: turn the loaf when my French colleague, Simca, sliding board-these are discussed or
over, stick the thermometer into a and I had our first session with a illustrated in the recipe to come.
bottom crease, and wait a few seconds master bread maker, Professeur Ray-
for the needle to stop moving- I mond Calvel, in Paris. That meeting ( continued)
consider it done at 200°F. brought forth the recipe for French
bread in Mastering II-well before
the invention of the food processor.
Since then our mentor himself has
continued to evolve, as professionals
French Bread Dough (continued) - - MASTER RECIPE The yeast. Sprinkle the yeast over the
water, and stir it in along with the
Yeast. The recipes here are for regu- Dough for French Bread sugar; let stand for 5 minutes or
lar dried granular yeast, although and Hard Rolls more until the mixture has foamed
you may use fresh cake yeast or the Food Processor Method up, proving to you that it is active.
so-called instant yeast interchange-
ably. Just to be safe and sure, I al- This is a thoroughly detailed tell-all The rest of the ingredients. Measure
ways prove my yeast, whatever the recipe, since it is the master for all the fl.ours and salt into the bowl of the
directions say, and I always keep it in the yeast doughs described in this processor. Stir up the yeast to be sure
the freezer. chapter, all of which are made in the it has thoroughly dissolved, blend in
food processor. the cup of cold water and set the mix-
White flour. Bread fl.our should have a ture by your side, along with the ex-
reasonably high gluten content so that Enough for 3 cups, making three 18- tra water and extra fl.our. Start the
the loaf will rise and keep its volume. inch oaguettes, 2 fat long loaves, two machine.
Professional bakers can, of course , 9-inch round loaves, or 12 rolls
order in bulk exactly what they want, Preliminary machine kneading-about
The yeast mixture
but the home baker has to depend on 60 seconds. With the machine going,
home sources and experience. I look 1 package dry-active yeast
1/3
rather slowly but steadily pour in the
cup tepid water (not over 110°F)
for unble~ched all-purpose fl.our or yeast mixture. If the dough does not
bread fl.our, and have had good luck in a 2-cup measure
form into a ball in a few seconds
on the East and West coasts both with ¼ teaspoon sugar
dribble in a little more water, adding
supermarket types and with fl.ours 3½ cups (1 pound) unbleached
more dribbles at several-second inter-
from the health-food stores, as well flour-bread flour if possible, or
vals until the dough balls on top of
as with bromated fl.our. Some all- all-purpose (measure by scooping
purpose fl.ours in the South are low in and leveling, page 380)-plus a
gluten because they are blended more little additional flour, if needed
for biscuits than for bread. If you 1 Tbs rye or whole wheat flour
suspect this to be the case, look for 2¼ tsp salt
bread fl.our in your local health-food 1 cup cold water, plus 1/J cup or so
store or blend some gluten fl.our into additional water
the all-purpose-starting with ½ cup
SPECIAL EQU IPMENT SUGGESTED:
of gluten for every 3 cups of all-
A food processor equipped if possible
purpose.
with a plastic blade, although the metal
blade will do; a fairly narrow 4-quart
The time it takes. A fine loaf of bread I. D ough balled up on top of blade
bowl with fairly straight sides-for the
takes a certain amount of time to pro-
dough to rise in; see also the forming
duce if it is to have the texture and
and baking requirements that follow, so
taste you hope for. You'll want 4 to 5
that you will have everything you need the blade, see illustration, step 1, and
hours in all, but these are almost un-
before you begin revolves under the cover 8 to 10
supervised hours-3 to 4 for the sev-
eral risings of the dough, and about times-don't worry if particles of
Food processor capacity: These recipes dough do not join the mass and re-
45 minutes for the baking. Unfortu-
are designed for a processor with a main in the bottom of the container.
nately you cannot hurry it, but the
2 ½ -quart container. If yours is
results are worth every moment
smaller, you may have to make the
spent.
dough in 2 or even 3 batches, and
combine them for the final hand
kneading.
(If by chance you have added too long sides over toward the middle,
much water and the dough refuses to and the other long side over to cover
ball or clogs in the machine, keep it it, making a 3-layer cushion. Repeat
running and pour in a tablespoon or the operation. This important step
so more of flour until the revolving redistributes the yeast throughout the
ball forms.) dough, for a strong second rise. Re-
turn the dough smooth side up to the
Rest period. Stop the machine, re- bowl; cover with plastic wrap and
move the cover, and feel the dough. again set to rise.
If it seems damp and wet, start the
2 . Final kneading by hand
machine again, pour in a tablespoon Final rise in the bowl- I to 1 ½ hours
or so of flour, and let the ball rotate or longer. This time let the dough rise
several times under the cover. Now 2 ½ to 3 times its original bulk. It is
let the dough rest 4 to 5 minutes; a the amount of rise that is important
the heels of your hands, step 2, and
rest allows the flour particles to ab- here, not the timing. The dough is
repeat 5 0 times. The final dough
sorb the liquids and facilitates now ready to form.
should not stick to your hands as you
kneading. knead (although it will stick if you
pinch and hold a piece); it should be
Final machine kneading. Turn on the smooth and elastic and, when you VARIATION
machine and let the dough rotate 3 0 hold it up between your hands and
times under the cover, then remove it stretch it down, it should hold to- Making Dough in a Mixer or
to a lightly floured work surface. It gether smoothly. by Hand
should be fairly smooth and quite
firm. Preliminary rise-40 to 60 minutes at When you are making dough in an
around 75°F. Scoop the dough into electric mixer with a dough hook,
A note on machine kneading: You do the clean dry bowl, cover with a proceed in the same general way with
not want to overknead in the machine sheet of plastic wrap, and set in a the rests indicated, and finish by
since that can overheat the dough and warm place free from drafts. (As an hand. Or mix the dough by hand in a
break down the gluten-this is par- example, I turn on my electric wall bowl, turn it out on a work surface,
ticularly true if you are using a steel oven for exactly 1 ½ minutes, place and start the kneading by lifting it up
rather than plastic blade. If you have the dough bowl in the lower third, with a scraper and slapping it down
any doubts, stop the machine, return off the oven, and close the door. roughly for several minutes until it
move the cover, and feel the dough; Note that the bowl is not oiled-the has body. Let it rest several minutes,
if it is warmer than room tempera- French theory is that dough needs a then proceed to knead as illustrated.
ture, let it rest and cool off for 5 seat to push up from.) This first rise
minutes before continuing. is sufficient when the dough has defi-
nitely started to rise and is about 1 ½
Final kneading by hand. Let the dough times its original volume.
rest 2 minutes, then knead roughly
and vigorously-rapidly fold the Deflating. Turn the dough onto your
dough over on itself, push it out with lightly floured work surface; roughly
and firmly pat and push it out into a
14-inch rectangle. Fold one of the
French Bread: Long Loaves
Forming a loaf of bread is just as im-

portant as making the dough, partic-
ularly since French loaves stand free
in the oven.
The various ffattenings, foldings, and

rollings here are traditional in French
bakeries when loaves are formed by
4. F olding rectangle in half lengthwise 7. P ressi ng tre nch in top of dough with side of hand
hand. Their object is to elongate the
gluten strands inside the dough so
that the loaf will hold its shape under Keeping your work surface always Roll the dough forward so that the
the cloak of gluten that forms on its clean and very lightly floured, fold sealed seam is on top, step 6. Pat it
surface. Work rapidly! the rectangle of dough in half length- firml y again into a rectangle, being
wise, its 2 edges toward you, step 4. sure it is not sticking to your work
surface-you do not want to tear the
Master recipe for French bread gluten cloak that is forming.
dough after its final rise
With the side of your hand, press a
trench down the central length of the
A little flour for the work surface; a
dough , following the seam, step 7.
pastry scraper; a lightly floured linen
towel set on an upside-down tray; a
lightweight lightly floured second towel
to cover the dough
To make the 2 fat loaves shown here, 5. F latten ing fo lded rectang le wit h heel of hand
cut the dough in half, and fold each
With the heel of your hand, press
and pound the dough firmly where
the 2 edges meet, to seal them, step
5. Then pound the rest of the rectan-
8 . Pressing fo lded do ugh w ith heel of hand to seal
gle flat-a firm hand here reactivates
the yeast to give your loaf more
volume. Fold the dough again lengthwise, its
joined edges toward you. Again press
and pound the 2 edges together,
pounding and flattening also the rest
3 . Flattening doug h half into rectang le o( the rectangle, step 8. Rotate the
dough so the seal is underneath.
piece in half end to end . Pat 1 piece
(left in the photo) firmly into a 14-
inch rectangle, squaring it up as
evenly as you can, step 3. (Cover the
other piece loosely with a towel.)
6 . Rotating doug h fo r wa rd , seam on top
For slashing the tops of the loaves: A

single-edge razor-art supply stores
have these .
Steam: Once the loaves go into the

oven, you must fill it with steam the
first few seconds of baking. For an
electric oven simply throw ½ cup of
cold water into the bottom of the
oven; for a gas oven , place a heavy
9. Elongating dough by rotating it under palms I I . Laying second loaf on fl oured towel
of hands
frying pan on the floor of the oven as
you preheat it, and toss the water into
Now rotate the dough rapidly back Make a pleat in the bottom towel to the hot pan after' the loaves go in.
and forth under your palms, starting separate the 2 loaves, and lift the sec- Steam sets the starch on the surface
at the middle and sliding your hands ond loaf into place, step 11. Cover and helps the crust to brown; steam
to the ends, step 9-and off the ends, loosely with the second towel. Let also humidifies the oven and allows
to make them pointed. Repeat several rise to more than double- I to 1 ½ the dough to puff a little longer be-
times, extending the loaf as evenly as hours, again at around 7 5°F. (I again fore the yeast is killed by the intense
possible to the length you wish-but use the warm turned-off oven here.) heat.
not so long it won't fit your baking Meanwhile prepare for baking as
surface! follows: An instant meat thermometer: You
can't tell that a loaf of bread is done
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED
just because it looks brown and
(to produce a loaf of bread the baker's
crusty, and gives out a hearty thump
way):
when you tap it. But you can be sure
when your thermometer registers an
A hot baking surface: Set your oven
interior temperature of 200°F.
rack in the lower third level and
cover with quarry tiles or a baking
To bake French bread. The loaves have
stone or stones-see the manufactur-
risen, the oven has been preheated to
ing notes on page 3 7. Preheat the
450°F, and all equipment is at hand.
oven to 45 0°F at least 20 minutes be-
Work rapidly here, as usual.
I 0 . Pinching the seam to seal
fore you plan to bake.
Unmolding. Dust the unmolding
Unmolding board and sliding board
Rotate the loaf seam side up, board lightly with cornmeal and flip
or peel: These are 3/s-inch plywood
straightening it as necessary. I then
boards, pictured in the instructions
like to pinch the edges together, just
following-the unmolding board is 8
to be sure, step 10. Lift it seal side
inches across and about 16 inches
up onto a lightly floured towel, cover
long. The sliding board is 2 inches
loosely with the second towel, and
less than the width of the oven and
form the second loaf.
18 to 20 inches long. Or use a bak-
er's peel or pizza paddle.
Cornmeal: A light dusting of corn-

meal on the unmolding and sliding
boards prevents the dough from 12 . F lip ping loaf fr om towel onto board
sticking.
French Bread (continued) face, step 14. Toss the ½ cup of cold that thawed frozen bread separates-
water into the bottom of an electric the crust or part of the outside por-
onto it a risen loaf, its seamless side oven or a hot frying pan. Close the tion works loose from the whole. I
up, step 12. Dust the sliding board door and set timer for 20 minutes. have asked several bakers about this
lightly with cornmeal and slide the and one likely theory is that there was
loaf in place at the far edge. Repeat Baking. Check the bread after 20 a lack of gluten, and the dough did
with the second loaf. minutes. It will have swelled in 5 not have the force to stick together.
minutes or so, and the slashes will
Slashing. Holding the razor almost open. In 20 minutes it should be
parallel to the surface of the loaf, brown and crusty, but it will need an-
VAR IATIONS
make 3 quick, sure slashes about ½ other 10 minutes or so at 400°F to
cook through. At this point check the Forming Fat Round Loaves
bottoms of the loaves-if they are too
brown, slip an oven rack under them
One becomes so accustomed to the
to raise them from the hot baking
long loaf shape for French bread, one
surface. If the tops are browning too
forgets that the very same dough can
much, cover loosely with a sheet of
be formed in other shapes. Fat round
foil, shiny side up; lower thermostat
loaves have a comfortable country
to 400°F and continue.
look to them, and are just right for
sandwiches or thick slices of toast.
When is it done? The loaves should The master dough recipe ( page 3 8)
feel rather light. Insert the thermom-
13. Slashing top of second loaf will make 1 big 12-inch loaf, or 2
eter discreetly through a central slash loaves 7 to 8 inches in diameter.
inch deep as shown, step 13. These and wait a few seconds until the
open up the gluten cloak and allow needle stops moving. The loaf is
Turn the risen dough onto a lightly
the dough to swell in the oven. (This done at 200°F. floured surface and let it rest 5 min-
is part of the baker's art, and if one utes. (Cut it in half, if you wish,
slashed 5 0 0 loaves a day one should
Cooling. Remove the loaves to a rack, covering one half with a lightly
eventually do it perfectly almost and in a few seconds a sharp ear will
floured towel while you form the
hear them crackle-the bread's own
every time.) Slash the second loaf. other.) Lift one side of the dough
music, as Professeur Calvel describes
it. Although bread warm from the
Into the oven. At once open the hot
oven, poise the end of the sliding oven is irresistible, its texture is best
board at the far end of the baking when it has cooled. If not eaten soon,
store it as follows:
Storing French Bread
Refr;igerating. The bread keeps 2 to

3 days refrigerated in plastic bags.
Crisp 5 minutes or so on a pastry
sheet in a preheated 400°F oven, I . Lifting sides of dough to form a round loaf
turning the oven off as soon as the
bread is in . Or use the microwave, with the palm of one hand and bring
but be very careful or you'll turn the it almost over the other, as shown in
14. Sliding loaves into oven loaf tough and dry. illustration, step 1. Rotate the dough
a quarter turn, and rapidly repeat the
surface and rapidly pull it out, dis- Freezing. Freeze thoroughly cold movement 8. to 10 times to make a
lodging the loaves onto the hot sur- loaves in plastic bags. It can happen smooth-bottomed cushion.
Turn the dough smooth side up, and Baking. As described in the preced-
rotate it rapidly between the sides of ing master recipe for French bread,
your hands, tucking a bit of dough immediately slide the loaf or loaves
under with your little fingers as you onto the baking stone in the pre-
go, to make a smooth round loaf in a heated 45 0°F oven, throw in the ½
cup of water, and close the oven door.
Check the bread in 20 minutes, when
it should have puffed and browned.
If the bottom is darkening, slip an
oven rack under it. Continue baking
4 . The cross: Make 1 slash down the center, and a
10 to 15 minutes or longer at 450°F,
slash on each side
then turn oven down to 400°F (even-
tually even down to 3 7 5°F for a very
large loaf), until the bread feels
light, and the interior temperature is
at 200°F.
2. Rotating ball of dough between sides of hands
dozen or so turns, step 2. These mo-

tions not only form the dough, but Forming Round Roils
establish the surface tension, or glu-
ten cloak, that holds the loaf in Dough for the long French loaf also
shape. 5. The cross-hatch: Make 4 slashes ac ross the makes the perfect individual hard
dough , then small slashes in between roll, the quintessential sop for those
Turn the ball of dough over, smooth last lovely bits of sauce that you can't
side down. Draw the edges of the bear to leave on your plate. The mas-
former underside together by pinch- ter recipe will make 12 rolls.
ing them, step 3. Place the ball,
pinched side up, on a lightly floured Form the dough into an even long
towel and cover loosely with a second rope; cut it in half across the middle;
lightly floured towel. Let rise 1 to cut the halves in half, then in thirds
1 ½ hours, or to almost tri ple-I let to make pieces all of one size. Fold
mine rise in my turned-off slightly each piece in half, as illustrated, step
warm oven. 1 , and rotate under the palm of your
6 . The tree slash: Make 1 slash down the center,
hand to make a ball. Place each as
and 2 slanting slashes on each side formed, smooth side down, on a
lightly floured towel, and pinch the
Flip the risen loaf, soft underside up,
onto your sliding board or paddle.
With quick, sure strokes of a razor
held almost parallel to the surface,
slash open the covering gluten cloak
to make a decorative pattern. Illus-
trated here are the cross, photo 4, the
cross-hatch, 5, and the tree slash, 6.
3. Pinching underside of dough to seal
Finished loaves are shown in the full-
page photograph introducing this
chapter.
1. Rotating ball of dough under palm of hand
Forming Round Rolls (continued) WHOLE WHEAT, RYE, FLOUR-MEASURING NOTE: To avoid
AND WALNUT BREADS trouble, always measure your flour by
edges together, as for the large round the scoop-and-level system described and
loaf. When all are in place, cover illustrated on page 3 80.
with a lightly floured towel and let
rise to almost triple. D elicious as French bread is,
the world was not built upon
this loaf alone, though I find that the
For 2 round loaves 9 to 10 inches in
diameter
general mechanics of French bread The yeast starter-2 to 3 hours or
work very well for all types of bread. overnight
Those include the preliminary mix-
1 package dry-active yeast
ing and kneading in the food proces-
1 cup water (not over 110°F )
sor, the final kneading by hand, the
1 'cup unbleached all-purpose flour
risings and the deflatings, and the 1/s tsp sugar
forming of the loaves. There are
slight variations, of course, but when Additions to the yeast starter
you are used to the general system 1 cup cold milk, plus more as needed
you will be creating your own formu-
2 . Slashing side of dough with ra zo r lae. Here are three ideas to start you The main ingredients
off. Since the amounts and types of 2½ cups whole wheat flour
flour differ from the master recipe, 2½ cups unbleached all-purpose
Arrange 3 or 4 risen rolls smooth here also are some hints. flour
side up on your sliding board, and 1 cup high gluten flour
slash with a razor, making 1 circular 4 tsp salt
cut as shown, step 2, a straight slash, 4 ounces ( 1 stick) butter, cut into ¼-
or a cross. Slide them into the oven, . _ MASTER RECIPE inch slices, optional, for
rapidly proceed with the rest, then tenderness
toss in the ½ cup of water. Close the Whole Wheat Country
door, and bake 15 to 20 minutes. Bread SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
Leave 10 minutes more in the Made with a yeast starter A 4-cup measure for the yeast starter; a
turned-off oven. food processor preferably with plastic
For a rustic loaf with body and char- blade, but the steel blade will do; a
acter, this formula makes wonderful fairly straight-sided 4-quart bow l for
buttered bread as well as equally rising the dough; the baking equipment
French Bread Dough Baked in good toast and sandwiches. Rather suggested for French bread ( page 3 7)
a Loaf Pan than a plain yeast dough, I have sug-
gested a starter, or sponge-yeast, The yeast starter-several hours or
The French bread dough here pro- flour, and water fermented together overnight. Whisk together the yeast,
duces fine sandwich bread and toast fC?_r several hours or overnight. water, flour, and sugar in the 4-cup
when baked in a loaf pan. Although (Leave it for 2 to 3 days and it be- measure; when smoothly blended,
made and risen in exactly the same comes a sourdough.) A starter, which scrape down the sides of the cup with
way, this loaf has a completely differ- you may also use in the same way for a rubber spatula. Cover the cup with
ent character. Follow the directions the French bread dough, gives the
on the next page. loaf not only a pleasantly moist tex-
ture but superior keeping qualities as
well.
plastic wrap and set in a warm place loaves about 9 by 3 ¼ inches, 3 ¼ to

(80°F ), such as a turned-off oven. SPECIAL NOTE 3 ½ inches high. (The French bread
Let rise: in an hour or so it will form recipe uses one I -quart pan.) Proceed
big bubbles, then subside. The Trouble-Shooting as follows:
sponge is more effective if you can
leave it overnight, or until the fol- Processor too small?
The preceding whole wheat dough
lowing day.
When the amount of dough is too
The dough mixture. Blend the cup of much for your machine, process by
2 buttered 2-quart loaf pans; a straight-
milk into the yeast mixture, and set halves or thirds, and combine them
edge razor for slashing, optional; an in-
extra milk at your side. M easure the for the final hand kneading.
stant meat thermometer
flours, salt, and optional butter into
the bowl of the food processor, and Forming the loaves. Cut the dough in
process half a minute to break up the half; fold each half in half. On a
butter. Then, following the master Dough is so stiff
lightly floured surface, and using the
directions on page 3 8, and with the the machine clogs. same general system as for the long
processor going, pour in the yeast French loaves described and illus-
mixture, gradually adding more milk Stop at once or you'll damage the mo- trated on pages 40-42, pat one of the
by droplets, if needed. tor. Remove the dough, and perhaps dough pieces out into an even rectan-
you can process it in batches. Other- gle 3 inches shorter than your pan.
Kneading. L et the ball of dough re- wise proceed by hand. Fold it in half lengthwise, the 2
volve under the cover 10 times. Turn joined edges toward you. Press the
off the machine and let rest 5 min- dough all over firmly with the heel of
utes . Turn on the machine and let the your hand as you seal the edges. Ro-
dough ball revolve another 3 0 times. A note on high gluten flour. tate the dough seam side up. Follow-
Turn the dough out . L et rest 2 min- {ng the seam, press a trench down its
utes. Finish kneading by hand a vig- Whole wheat and especially rye flours length with the side of your hand.
orous 5 0 strokes. are low in gluten. If you do not for- Fold and seal again as before, this
tify them with a proportion of all- time elongating the dough the length
Rising, forming, and baking. Follow- purpose flour, or with a high gluten of your pan. Pinch the sealed edges
ing the directions for French bread flour (usually from a health-food together with your fingers. Lift the
( page 3 8), give the dough 2 rises in store) you will get a heavy loaf. The dough, seam side down, into the pan,
the bowl, form it, let it rise again , amounts indicated here have worked pressing it into the corners. Proceed
and bake as described. D irections for for me, but flours differ in quality with the second pan. The pans should
baking in a loaf pan are at the end of and you will vary the proportions ac- be almost two-thirds filled.
the following ,recipe . cording to your own tastes.
Rising. Cover loosely with a towel
and let rise ½ inch beyond the tops
VARIATIONS of the pans-an hour or more.
Baking Bread in a Loaf Pan Baking-30 to 40 minutes at 450°F,

400°F, and 375°F. Preheat the oven
Any of the bread doughs described, to 450°F, and set½ cup of water at
including French bread, may be your side. (If your oven is gas, pre-
baked in bread pans. The preceding heat a heavy frying pan on the floor
whole wheat dough will fit two 2- of the oven to catch the water.) If you
quart pans, giving you rectangular
( continued)
Baking Bread in a Loaf Pan (continued ) Adding the walnuts. Push, pat, and 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
roll out the dough into a rectangle 20 2 cups high gluten flour
wish, make a quick, sure lengthwise inches long. Spread a quarter of the 4 tsp salt
slash in the top of the loaf with the walnuts across half of one of the short 4 Tbs butter, cut into ¼-inch slices,
razor held almost parallel to the sur- sides, and fold the other half over to optional
face. Place the pans in the lower cover it, pressing it in place. Roll out
middle level of the preheated oven, Additions to the yeast starter
again, spread on an equal amount of
toss in the water, close the door, and nuts, and continue twice more, fold- 2 "large" eggs
bake for 20 minutes . Turn the oven 1 to 1 ½ cups buttermilk, plus more
ing the dough to enclose the nuts
down to 400°F, and if the tops have completely. as needed
browned enough, cover loosely with
foil. Bake 15 minutes and take tem- Finishing the dough and baking. Re- The yeast starter. As described in the
peratures-the bread is done at turn the dough to the bowl, proceed master recipe for whole wheat bread,
200°F. If the temperature has not to the second rise as usual, then to the blend the starter ingredients in a 4-
been reached, lower thermostat to forming and baking. cup measure and let rise, bubble,
3 7 5°F and bake 5 minutes or so etc., several hours or overnight.
more, or to the correct temperature.
The dough mixture . Also as described,
Cooling. Turn the loaves out onto measure the flours, salt, and optional
Country Buttermilk Rye Bread
racks to cool. butter into the food processor. Blend
Rye flour, because of its low gluten the eggs and 1 cup of buttermilk into
content, makes smaller and heavier the starter, and set the rest of the but-
loaves than whole wheat flour. Be- termilk by your side. Start the ma-
Walnut Whole Wheat Bread cause eggs lighten the texture, I have chine and let it run a few seconds,
used them here rather than raising then add the starter, plus driblets
--- ------1 he master whole wheat recipe the proportions of white or high glu- more buttermilk as needed. Here you
makes a marvelous base for walnut ten flour. If you can find so-called may well find the mixture is too
bread , the kind that goes so well on dark rye flour or r ye meal, by the heavy for the machine; if so, you will
the cheese tray, or toasted for break- way, or if you grind the rye berries have to remove the dough and pro-
fast or for tea wi th honey, or marma- yourself, your bread will have an es- ceed by hand.
lade, or just plain butter. pecially interesting texture-a real
Rising, forming, and baking. Follow
peasant quality.
For 2 round loaves 9 to 10 inches in the master directions for the Whole
diameter Wheat Country Bread, but form the
For 2 loav es baked in 2-quart pans
loaves in bread pans.
2½ cups walnut meats The yeast starter
Ingredients for the master Whole 1 package dry-active yeast
Wheat Country Bread recipe ½ cup water (not over ll0°F)
1/3 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
The initial dough. First roughly chop 3 Tbs rye flour
the walnuts ¾ cup at a time in a food 1
/s tsp sugar
processor and set aside. Make the
dough as described , but keep it The dough mixture
rather soft. Let it rise in a bowl for 1 cup whole wheat flour
about an hour, to 1 ½ times its vol- 2 cups rye flour
ume . Turn it out onto your work
surface.
Hamburger Buns The dough mixture. Following the (smooth side up) on your board and
general directions on page 3 8, blend slide them onto the hot baking sur-
The best hamburger bun is just the the yeast ingredients in a 4-cup mea- face. Close the door, and repeat rap-
right size and, equally important, sure and let prove for 5 minutes or idly with the rest. (Note that there is
neither too hard nor too crusty; so. Meanwhile, measure the flour no steam here, since you do not want
moreover, it has the texture to hold and salt into the container of the pro- the buns to have a crusty surface.)
its shape as it sops up the juices of cessor, add the butter, and process a Bake 1_4 to 15 minutes; they will rise
hamburger and trimmings. I find few seconds. Whisk the egg, milk, to about 1 ½ inches and should brown
store-bought buns too limp, too and 1/3 cup of water into the yeast lightly.
fluffy, too liable to disintegrate, and mixture, then turn on the machine
home-made French bread dough is and process it in, adding droplets Cooling and storing. Cool the buns on
too chewy. The following formula more water until the dough forms a a rack. When thoroughly cold, wrap
seems just about right to me. rotating ball for 8 to 10 revolutions. them airtight and place in the refrig-
erator, where they will keep nicely
MANUFACTURING NOTE: More de- Kneading and rising the dough. After a for 2 to 3 days, or freeze them.
tailed directions for food-processor 5-minute rest, process the dough 3 0
dough are in the French bread recipe on more revolutions, turn it out onto
page 38. your work surface, let it rest 2 min- VA RIATIO N
utes, and complete the kneading by
For 8 buns 3 ½ inches across and 1 ½ hand. Turn it into a bowl, cover, and
Rolls and Sandwich Bread
inches high-the right size for 5-ounce let rise to 1 ½ times its volume-40
hamburgers minutes or so. Deflate it, and give it Rolls. The preceding dough formula
a second rise of an hour or more in makes delicious rolls formed as de-
The yeast mixture
the bowl until almost tripled. Turn scribed and illustrated on page 43,
1 package dry-active yeast
the dough out onto your work and baked either free-form or in but-
½ cup tepid water (not over ll0°F)
1/s tsp sugar
surface. tered muffin tins.
The.flour, etc. Forming the buns and first rise-]¼ to Sandwich bread. For a rectangular
3½ cups (1 pound) unbleached all- 1 ½ hours. Form the dough into 8 loaf of sandwich bread, pack the
purpose flour (measure by balls, as described and illustrated for risen dough into a fairly straight-
scooping and leveling, page 380) the rolls on page 43. Place them sided buttered 8-cup bread pan, fill-
2 tsp salt smooth side down and spaced 1 ¼ ing it by no more than a third; let it
2 Tbs butter inches apart on a lightly floured rise to slightly more than double.
towel, cover.loosely with another Cover with a sheet of buttered foil,
Additions to the yeast mixture towel, and let rise 1 ¼ hours or and place it in the lower middle level
1 "large" egg longer, to more than double. of a preheated 425°F oven; set a bak-
½ cup milk
ing sheet and a 5-pound ovenproof
1/3 cup water, plus more, if needed
Second rise. With the palm of your weight of some sort on top of the
hand, lightly but firmly flatten the pan. Bake 3 0 to 3 5 minutes, until the
balls into fat disks, cover, and let rise dough has set its shape. Then un-
A food processor, and the baking stone, again for 3 0 minutes. Meanwhile
sliding board, and other items called for cover and continue baking until the
preheat the oven and your baking loaf comes easily out of the pan. The
in the master recipe ( pages 3 7-3 8)
stone. interior temperature should be
200°F.
Baking-about 15 minutes at 425°F.
You will probably be able to slide 3
buns at a time into the oven-gently
place them, one by one, upside down
~ MASTER RECIPE Enough dough for an 8-cup loaf pan, or

a 12-i'nch coffee cake, or 8 sticky buns
Spiced Brioche Dough for
The yeast mixture
Bread, Coffee Cakes, Sticky
Buns, and Beehive Cakes 1 package dry-active yeast
3 Tbs tepid water (not over 110°F)
Brioche dough, made light with eggs 2 tsp sugar
and rich with butter, is certainly a Other ingredients
wonder of the baker's art-but cer- 3½ cups (1 pound) all-purpose flour
tainly not a dough for everyday eat- (measure by scooping and 1. Adding diced butter to flour in machi ne
ing, and most certainly not a dough leveling, page 380)
for the fat or faint-hearted. It's for 1 ½ tsp salt Add the chilled diced butter to the
celebrations. I shall not repeat the ac- 1/3 cup sugar
machine as illustrated, step 1, and
tual making of a brioche here, nor ½ to 1 tsp mace or cinnamon, pulse in by I -second bursts to break
doughnuts, nor go into brioche optional for sandwich bread the butter into rough flour-covered
dough as the perfect crust for beef 6 ounces ( 1½ sticks) chilled unsalted granules.
Wellingtons and other encasements, butter, cut into dice
since those aspects are well covered
Additions to the yeast mixture Whisk the eggs and J/3 cup of milk
and illustrated in Masteri'ng II, and
into the yeast mixture. Then turn on
in Ki'tchen. What follows is the 4 "large" eggs
1/3 cup milk, plus more if needed
the machine and process this liquid
brioche dough for superior sandwich
in, adding droplets more milk until
bread, the spiced dough for coffee
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: the dough forms a rotating ball for 8
cakes, sticky buns, and a famous bee-
A 4-cup measure for the yeast mi'xture; to 10 revolutions. It should feel
hive cake.
a food processor fairly soft, step 2.
MANUFACTU RI NG NOTES: If usi'ng a
small food processor, divi'de and process The dough mi'xture. Following the
the i'ngredi'ents i'n 2 or even 3 batches; general directions on page 3 8, blend
uni'te them for the final hand kneadi'ng. the yeast ingredients in the measure
Detai'led tell-all i'nstructi'ons for maki'ng and let prove for 5 minutes or so.
dough i'n the food processor are on page Meanwhile, turn the flour, salt,
38 . sugar, and optional mace or cinna-
mon into the bowl of the machine.
2. P inching dough to test texture
Kneadi'ng and ri'si'ng the dough. After a

5-minute rest, process the dough 30
more revolutions, turn it out onto
your work surface, and let it rest 2
minutes.
Fold the dough into 3 layers from Brioche Bread

one of the ends, step 5. Pat it out
again and repeat the folding. Return Brioche bread is ideal for fancy sand-
the dough to the bowl, and cover wiches of smoked salmon or foie gras
with plastic wrap. and makes delicious toast either for
one or for tea. Follow the directions
for sandwich bread on page 47, and,
if you want a regular loaf rather than
the covered rectangular loaf de-
scribed, fill the bread pan by two-
3. Kneading dough by hand
thirds, and let the dough rise to the
rim of the pan; bake it uncovered.
Knead by hand 20 vigorous strokes,
step 3, turn it into a bowl, cover, and
let rise to 1 ½ times its volume-40
minutes or so. Ideal rising tempera-
A Coffee Cake Ring
ture is 72°F to 7 5°F; if it is too warm
6. Ri se n do ugh at rig ht: more than double in volume
the butter will begin to ooze out of
Your own spiced brioche dough
the dough.
Let the dough rise again, this time to makes the best conceivable coffee
more than double , step 6. cake served for Sunday breakfast,
brunch, or with afternoon tea.
*Ahead-of-time note: After this second
rise the dough may be refrigerated: Ingredients for a 12- to 14-inch ring
cover with plastic wrap, and push it
For the filling
down several times in the refrigera-
1 cup chopped walnut meats
tor until chilled, at which time its
¾ cup dark brown sugar
own congealed butter will hold it
1 tsp cinnamon
down. Refrigerated, the dough will
½ tsp mace
keep nicely 2 to 3 days; let it come to
1/s tsp salt
almost-room temperature before
4. Flattening dough into a rectangle 1 ½ cups mixed raisins (black and
proceeding.
golden), chopped with 1 Tbs flour
To deflate the dough for its second 1 Tbs com syrup
rise, pat and push it out firmly into a
12-inch rectangle, step 4. Half the preceding spiced brioche
dough

A 12- by 17 -inch baking sheet or tray;
heavy-duty foil; a buttered pizza pan 16
inches in diameter
(continued)
5 . F olding dough into 3 laye rs

A Coffee Cake Ring (continued)
Preliminaries. Toss the filling ingre-

dients in a mixing bowl and set aside.
Lightly flour the dough, pat it out
into a 10- by 14-inch ~ectangle, and
transfer it to the baking sheet. Cover
loosely, and chill 10 minutes or
more.
Forming the ring. Roll the dough into

an even rectangle 18 ½ inches long.
Cut ½ inch off one of the short ends
and reserve-to patch the seam after
forming the ring. Transfer the rect-
angle of dough to a sheet of lightly
floured foil. Lightly press the filling
into the dough.
Roll the dough up lengthwise to

make a trim log shape, using the foil
to help you, as illustrated, step 1.
Final rise-] hour or more. Cover

loosely and let rise an hour or more,
until well puffed . Preheat the oven to
350°F.
Baking-45 minutes at 350°F. Set in

the middle level of the preheated
oven and bake until nicely browned
and crisp.
1. Rolling up the dough 2. Turning a slash outward

*Ahead-of-time note: When the baked
ring is thoroughly cold, you may
Turn the log seam side down and With either large sharp kitchen wrap it airtight and refrigerate for 2
form into a ring, dampening the two shears or a knife, slash the outside of days, or freeze it.
ends to seal them. Transfer to the the ring all around at 1 ½-inch inter-
buttered pizza pan. Dampen one side vals to open it. Turn each slash out-
of the reserved dough strip, and ward to expose the filling, step 2.
press it neatly over the seam.
J ULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK BREADS 51
VA RIATIO N
Sticky Buns
Cut this same filled and rolled-up log

of dough into crosswise pieces, and
you will have sweet spicy buns, as
sticky as your heart desires.
For 8 to 10 buns
Ingredients for the preceding filled
coffee cake
Sticky syrup
½ cup sugar
3 Tbs water
4 ounces ( 1 stick) butter

Buttered muffin tins or a buttered 8-inch
cake pan, no-stick recommended but not
essential
Dribbl ing syrup over a panful of baked sti cky buns
Preliminaries. After preparing the

dough and filling for the preceding
recipe to the point of rolling it into a Forming the buns. Slice the log of Baking-45 minutes at 350°F. Bake
log shape, make the syrup as follows. doug h crosswise into 8 to 10 in the middle level of the preheated
Simmer the sugar and water in a porti ons. oven until nicely browned.
small saucepan, swirling the pan by
its handle for a minute or two, until Either: in Muffin Tins. Drop a table- The sticky syrup. The muffin-tin buns
the sugar has dissolved completely spoon of sticky syrup in the bottom have their sticky glaze baked on , but
and the liquid is perfectly clear. Cut of each buttered muffin cup , and plop may need a few droplets more.
the butter into pieces, add to the in a slice of the dough , as illustrated.
syrup, and boil for several minutes, U nmold the cake-pan buns onto a
until the last drops to fall from the Or: in a R ound Cake Pan . Arrange rack, and dribble syrup over the top ,
spoon are thick and sticky. Warm the slices loosely together in a but- as illustrated.
briefly before using, if necessary. tered cake pan.
R ising-60 minutes or more. Let rise

an hour or more, until well puffed .
Usi ng a m uffi n tin fo r sti cky bu ns

The Proven~al
Beehive Cake
Le Nici f Abeilles
I first saw this handsome cake a num-

ber of years ago at Chez Felix, a chic
small restaurant on the chic shopping
street La Croisette, bordering the
Mediterranean in Cannes. That is, I
saw it being paraded around and
served, but when our time came to
order a piece every crumb had been
gobbled up. Next time, our waiter
advised, we should order ours the
moment we came into the restaurant.
And a week or so later, we did . No
wonder it goes so fast-spiced
brioche dough, dome shaped, baked
with a honey and walnut topping,
split in half, anointed with liqueur
syrup, and filled with buttercream.
That takes the brioche about as far as
it can go-and what a great dessert
for a party!
Accompaniments loaf as described and illustrated for
For a cake 14 inches across and 3 inches A bowl of fresh strawberries, French bread on page 43. Cover it
high, serving 20 to 24 raspberries, or diced fresh loosely with plastic wrap and let it
pineapple chunks, sweetened and rest 5 minutes, then roll and pat it
The cake dough: double the master out into a fat disk 12 inches in diam-
flavored with a tablespoon or two
recipe for spiced brioche dough eter; transfer it smooth side up to the
of rum
(page 48) buttered pizza tray.
1 cup heavy cream, whipped, folded
The beehive topping with 1 cup of the preceding cake
filling Final rise and beehive topping. Cover
Egg wash ( 1 "large" egg beaten in a
loosely with floured plastic again, and
1-cup measure with 1 tsp cold
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: let the dough rise about 1 hour, until
water)
A food processor; a buttered pizza pan it looks puffed and feels light to
½ cup slightly warmed honey
16 inches in diameter; a pastry brush gentle pressure-it will reach a
1 cup chopped walnut meats
height of only about 2 ½ inches. (Just
Cake filling Forming the dough. Unless you have a before you think the rise is complete,
½ cup rum syrup (2 Tbs sugar mammoth food processor, you'll be preheat the oven to 3 7 5°F.) Gently
dissolved in ¼ cup hot water; preparing the double recipe of dough brush a coating of egg wash over the
2 Tbs dark rum stirred in) in 2 or more parts, and uniting them top of the dough, and let set for 2
3 cups of either the rum-flavored for the final kneading. When fully minutes. Then brush with a coating
butter cream (page 468); or the risen, shape the dough into a round of tepid honey, and sprinkle the
St. Honore custard-cream filling chopped walnuts over the surface-
(page 400), flavored with a little that gives the presumed "beehive"
rum effect.

At once set the cake in the middle
level of the preheated oven. Bake un-
til the center has puffed up anci the
top and sides have browned and
crisped-if the top browns too much
during baking, cover loosely with
foil. Cool on a rack.
*Ahead-of-time note: When thor-

oughly cool, wrap airtight and either
refrigerate for a day or two, or
freeze.
Filling . When the cake has thor-

oughly cooled, slice it in half hori-
zontally. Turn the top half cut side
up, and sprinkle both halves with the
rum syrup. Spread 2 cups of the fill-
ing over the bottom half, re-form the
cake, and set it on a serving platter.

pleted a day ahead to this point; cover
and refrigerate, but let sit 20 minutes
or more at room temperature before PIZZA AND CALZONE ~ MASTER RECIPE
servmg.
Rosemary's Classic Pizza
Serving. To serve such a large cake
attractively, cut a circle in the center
so that you can cut fat wedges from
0 ne of the appeals of the pizza
is a crisp yet tender crust,
and here are four choices. The first is
Dough
One of the best white flour pizza

the circumference to the circle's outer a classic dough, but an especially fine dough formulae I know, for a crisp
edge, as shown. Then cut the final one developed by my colleague and but tender crust.
circle into wedges, as for an ordinary pizza queen, Rosemary Manell. The
cake. Serve with a helping of fruit, second is a combination of white flour For tw o 16-inch disks
and pass the cream separately. and cornmeal, one of my favorites
The yeast mixture
because of its crisp texture. A third
choice is the flour tortilla, and a 1 package dry-active yeast
fourth, the pita bread-both easily ½ cup tepid water (not over ll0°F)
1/s tsp sugar
available and always successful.
Additions to the yeast mixture
¾ cup cold milk, plus more, if
needed
2 Tbs olive oil
The dry ingredients
3 cups all-purpose flour (measure by
scooping and leveling, page 380)
1½ tsp salt
54 J ULIA CH ILD THE WAY TO COOK
Rosemar y's Classic Pizza Dough (continued)

Cornmeal Pizza Dough
A small proportion of cornmeal in a
A food processor pizza dough gives a pleasantly crisp
texture, and I find this form ula par-
Mixing the dough. W hi sk the yeast in- ticularly successful for the home
g red ients in a measu re and let bubble pizza oven.
up 5 minutes or so to proof. Measure
the d ry ingredi ents into the bowl of For a disk 12 to 14 inches across and
the processor. Blend the ¾ CUl-J of about ¼ inch thick
2 . Final hand kneading
milk into the ready yeast mixture.
The yeast mixture
Knead 5 0 strokes by hand, give a 2- 1 package dry-active yeast
minute rest, and knead 20 strokes ¼ cup tepid water (not over ll0°F)
1/s tsp sugar
more to make a soft, smooth dough,
step 2. The dry ingredients
1 cup all-purpose flour (measure by
Rising-about 1 ½ hours. Let the
scooping and leveling, page 380)
dough rise in a covered bowl until
1/3 cup cornmeal
doubled in bulk. Turn it out onto
1 tsp salt
your work surface, and it is ready to
cut and form as your recipe directs. Additions to the yeast mixture
I. D ough softly massed on blade of processo r
¼ cup milk, plus more later, if
*Ahead-of-time note: If you are not needed
ready to bake, punch the dough down 2 Tbs olive oil
Turn on the machine and process in
and set the covered bowl in a cooler
the yeast , then the oil, and droplets
place, where it will keep safely for an SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
more milk, if needed, just u ntil the
hour or more. You can chill or even A food processor
dough masses on the blade of the pro-
freeze it, but then it must be brought
cessor, as shown, step 1.
to room temperature and start to rise Mixing and kneading the dough . Fol-
again before you form and bake it. lowing the detailed directions for
T he dough wi ll be very soft. Let it
French bread dough on page 3 8,
rest 5 minutes, and it will develop
whisk the yeast mixture in a measu re
enough body to be processed 2 sec-
and let proof. Meanwhile measu re
onds more in the m achine . Then turn
the dry ingredients into the bowl of
it out onto your lightly floured work
the processor. When the yeast is
surface.
ready, whisk into it the ¼ cup of
3. Forming dough into balls
Form dough gently with your hands

into smooth balls, step 3. Cover
loosely and let rest 10 minutes before
making pizza or calzone, as de-
scribed farther on.
milk and the oil. Turn on the ma- Pita Bread Pizzas Tomato Note:
chine, and process in the liquid, add-
ing droplets more milk if Use large white-flour pita breads, For all piz'.?as specifying tomato
necessary- you won't need much, if split in half. Treat them like the pre- sauce, your own (page 358) is always
any, so don't overdo . When the ceding tortillas. preferable, but you can make do with
dough balls on the blade, let it rotate fresh tomato pulp ( page 3 5 8) or a
8 to 10 times under the cover. Give a mixture of fresh and canned toma-
5-minute rest, process 3 0 more revo- toes, livene,d with seasonings, olive
lutions, and turn the dough out onto oil, garlic, and t~rbs. Or you can
your work surface. After a 2-minute fix up a bottled sauce in the same
rest, knead 3 0 strokes by hand . manner.
Rising. Let the dough rise to 1 ½ TO TOP AND BAKE A

times its volume in a covered bowl- PIZZA
40 to 60 minutes; deflate by patting it Cheese Note:
F
into a rectangle, folding into 3 layers,
and repeating the process . Let rise rom the pizza extravaganzas of A mixture of cheeses gives added in-
again, this time to more than double, famed Wolfgang Puck to the terest, such as grated mozzarella or
and the dough is ready to form . boutique pizzas of equally famed Al- soft Jack, a hard cheese like Parme-
ice Waters, that once humble pie has san, aged Jack or Asiago, and for
*Ahead-of-time note: See notes at the become a truly creative base. It is es- contrast thin finger-shaped slices of a
end of the preceding classic dough pecially suited to the home cook, who third cheese like Swiss, Cheddar, or
recipe. can be fast and simple or infinitely fontina. Reserve Roquefort, other
elaborate. We start with basic tomato blue cheeses, Camembert, Brie, etc.,
and cheese-always easy to assemble for your own unique boutique
and always a favorite-and follow creations.
VARIATIONS
with more elaborate suggestions.
Tortilla Pizzas
Use large flour tortillas, the thinnest

Baking Equipment Note:
you can find . Top with any of the fol-
lowing suggestions, and bake them as
Pizzas are at their peak when you
usual but only long enough to cook
have the right baking equipment-a
the topping and crisp the tortilla
pizza stone that heats up in the oven
base .
onto which you slide the pizza from a
paddle or baker's peel. These are de-
scribed and illustrated in the recipe
for French bread ( page 3 8). Note: If
your pizza stone is porous, form the
pizza on lightweight oiled foil set on
your paddle or you'll have a smoke-
filled oven. You can bake ·on a pastry
sheet or pizza pan, but it is never as
good-the crust is never quite as
crusty as it should be.
Tomato Pizza with Three

Cheeses
Of course you can use one type of

cheese only, but if one's good, three's
better.
For a 14- to 16-inch pizza
Fully risen pizza dough, either the

classic recipe or the cornmeal I . Tossing and stretc hing the doug h 2. Spreading on the toppi ng
over the tops of you r hands
¼ cup fruity olive oil
1 ½ to 2 cups cheeses: finely grated
hard cheese, coarsely grated
Press it in shape as necessary with ADDITIO NS AND VAR IATIONS
mozzarella, and thin-sliced fingers

your fingers. Lightly flour the top,
fold into quarters, and transfer it to Using the same general ingredients
of Swiss (see preceding notes)
2 cups fresh tomato sauce ( or see
the far end of the paddle, again of tomatoes, cheese, and a bowl of
preceding notes) pressing it into shape as needed. fresh herbs as a base, vary the pro-
portions as you wish. Here are some
Herbs to taste: thyme, oregano,
The topping. Brush off excess flour, of many possible additions, a number
sage, or Italian or Provern;al herb
mixture and brush on a light coating of olive of which come from my friend
Salt and freshly ground pepper, as oil. Dust with 2 tablespoons of Rosemary.
needed grated hard cheese, and spread on the
tomato. Drizzle on a little olive oil,
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: spread on the mozzarella, interspers-
A baking stone and pizza paddle (page · ing it with the cheese slivers, and a I talian Sa usage
41); a sheet offoil oiled on top, if sprinkling of herbs, salt, and pepper,
needed; a soft pastry brush for flour; a step 2. Drizzle on a little more oil, Steam several sweet or hot Italian
pastry brush for oil and finish with the remaining grated sausages 5 minutes. Peel off and dis-
hard cheese. card the covering skin casing, chop
Preliminaries. Place the pizza stone in roughly, then saute a few minutes ,
the middle level, and preheat the Baking-7 to 10 minutes. At once mashing and crumbling them.
oven to 450°F. If you are using foil, slide the pizza onto the hot baking Sprinkle over the tomatoes before
place it oiled side up on the paddle; if stone in the oven. Bake until the adding the cheese.
not, lightly flour the paddle. edges have puffed, the cheese is bub-
bling, and when you lift up the edges
Forming the pizza disk. Form the you can see that the bottom has
dough into a 14- to 16-inch disk crisped-it should be a patchy
about ¼ inch thick by rolling it out brown.
and stretching, or tossing in your
hands as shown, step 1-a nice Serving. Slide the pizza onto a serv-
professional touch that takes not too ing board, and cut into wedges.
much practice.
*Ahead-of-time note: A pizza is always
at its best when freshly cooked; how-
ever, you can refrigerate leftovers
and reheat on a baking sheet in the
oven, or in the microwave.
J ULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK BREADS 57
Onion and Anchovy Pizza:

the Pissaladiere
This is one of my favorites, a specialty

of Nice. Be sure the onions are per-
fectly cooked and tender since their
sojourn in the oven is short, and be
sure your anchovies are fresh and fine.
A 2-ounce can of flat anchovy fillets

packed in oil
1 large clove of garlic, pureed
Ingredients for Tomato Pizza with
Three Cheeses (page 56 ), minus
\
the tomatoes and half the cheese
Salt, freshly ground pepper, and sage
4 cups sliced onions cooked until
very tender in ¼ cup olive oil,
cooled
A handful of Ni9oise type small
black olives
Finished pi zza
Mash 3 anchovy fillets with the pu-
reed garlic and I tablespoon of olive
oil; brush this paste over the disk of
pizza dough. Sprinkle on 2 table-
Mushrooms Broccoli or Artichokes
spoons of the grated hard cheese.
Season the onions and spread them
Slice a handful of trimmed fresh Steam broccoli flowerettes until al-
on. Place the remaining anchovies
mushrooms, and toss with a little most tender, or use quartered and
like the spokes of a wheel over the
lemon juice, salt, and olive oil. Scat- marinated artichoke hearts-about
onions, and scatter the olives in be-
ter them over the tomatoes before I½ cups. Arrange them over the to-
tween. Spread on a decent amount of
adding the cheese. matoes and sprinkle on a little lemon
cheese, and drizzle over the remain-
juice and ¼ cup of minced scallions;
ing olive oil.
finish with the cheese and a drizzle of
olive oil.
Clams SPECIAL N OTE
Chop a cup of fresh baby clams or About Anchovies

use canned minced clams, and scatter
them over the tomatoes along with ¼ I think one reason some people hate
cup of minced scallions and droplets anchovies is that they've been served
of lemon juice. Then spread on the stale ones that have been sitting
cheese and drizzle with oil. around in an open can-they go off
quickly. In other words, buy small
cans (I've had best luck with Portu-
guese anchovies packed in olive oil),
and use them all.
Rosemary's Calzone SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:

A vegetable steamer; a pizza stone or
Italian sausage is given lightness and quarry tiles and a pizza paddle ( page
special flavor with fresh fennel, 41)
leeks, and red and green bell pep-
pers. This is fine picnic fare, since it Preparing the filling and other prelimi-
is good either hot or cold. naries. As the dough is rising, prick
the sausage and set to steam in a cov-
MANUFACTURING NOTE: ff you are ered pan. Meanwhile slice the fennel
cooking several calzone-one will am- and leek or onion thinly lengthwise
I . Folding half of dough over filling and add to the steamer, not covering
ply serve 2 people-form them on sheets
of oiled foil so that thiy may be slid in the sausage. Halve and seed the pep-
pairs from your pizza paddle onto your per; slice crosswise, and add to steam
hot baking stone. The average pizza with the other vegetables for 2 min-
stone will hold 2, possibly 3, while 4 to utes. Remove the steamer to let the
6 will go onto a tile-lined oven rack. vegetables drain . Cut the sausage into
Although you can bake them on a pastry thin crosswise slices. Preheat the
sheet, the hot oven surface produces the oven to 450°F with the baking stone
best crust. a good 20 minutes before you plan to
bake the calzone.
For 1 calzone, serving 2
*Ahead-of-time note: The filling may
2. Painting top of dough with remaining garlic oil The fully risen classic pizza dough
be prepared in advance.
(page 53 ), which will make
3 calzone
Forming. After the dough has been
Rosemary's filling divided and given its 10-minute rest
1 fresh sweet Italian sausage as described in the master recipe,
1 large fennel bulb form a ball of dough into a pizza-like
I large leek, white part only, or disk 12 inches across, and place it
1 onion on the edge of your lightly floured
1 medium red or green bell pepper paddle or on oiled foil. Rapidly, so
Garlic oil ( 1 large clove of garlic the dough will not rise, proceed to
pureed and blended into 3 Tbs the filling as follows.
fruity olive oil)
3. To serve, cut the calzone crosswise into
Salt Filling. Leaving a free ½ inch all
2 or 3 pieces.
¼ cup finely grated Parmesan or around, paint the surface of the disk
other hard cheese with a coating of garlic oil. You are
1/3 cup coarsely grated Swiss cheese now to fill half the disk; the other
Herbs: 2 Tbs minced fresh parsley half will be folded over to cover it.
and your choice of others, fresh Salt the to-be-filled half lightly.
or dried Spread on half the grated hard
Drops of freshly squeezed lemon cheese, half the Swiss cheese, then a
juice mixture of the steamed sausage, veg-
1 ounce soft Jack or Cheddar, cut etables, and herbs. Drizzle on drops
into 4 strips of lemon juice, spread on the rest of
Optional topping: a sprinkling of
coarse salt
the grated Swiss cheese, arrange the Buttermilk Corn Sticks

cheese strips on top, drizzle over half
the remaining garlic oil, and sprinkle Definitely dressier than cornbread
on the rest of the grated hard cheese. baked in the traditional square pan
(for which I usually use the recipe on
Bring the top half of the dough over the Quaker cornmeal box), cornsticks
to cover the filling, and press the are so shapely you can well serve
edges firmly together with your fin- them not only at breakfast but at
gers to seal them, as illustrated, lunch, at dinner, or at high tea.
step 1.
For 14 sticks 3 ½ inches long
Paint the top of the dough with the
% cup fresh peanut oil, plus a little
remaining garlic oil, step 2, and
more to oil the molds
sprinkle lightly with the optional
1 ¼ cups yellow cornmeal
coarse salt.
½ cup white all-purpose flour
2 Tbs sugar
1½ tsp fresh and active double-
Slide the calzone onto the hot baking
acting baking powder
stone (or proceed rapidly to the next
½ tsp baking soda
if you are baking several). The cal- Using either a large spoon or a pas-
½ tsp salt
zone is done when lightly puffed and try bag with a ¾-inch tube opening,
1 cup buttermilk
browned, and when the bottom has fill the molds roundly full as fast as
1 egg, lightly beaten
crisped and colored nicely. you can and pop them back into the
oven. (Or rapidly form 2-inch
Other Fillings Adapt any of the pizza Cast-iron cornstick molds-or baking rounds on the hot baking sheets with
toppings to calzone, adding crumbled sheets for free-form rounds a spoon.)
sausage, diced ham, or chicken, or
an eggplant mixture such as rata- Preliminaries. Preheat the oven to Baking. Bake 15 to 20 minutes, until
touille ( page 3 17), or moussaka 42 5°F. Brush the molds (or baking lightly puffed and brown-they will
( page 319)-good use for leftovers! sheets) generously with peanut oil come easily out of the molds or off
and heat in the oven 5 to 10 minutes the baking sheets. Turn them over_
before baking. rapidly and return to the oven 2 to 3 ·
minutes to brown on the other side.
The batter. Mix the cornmeal, flour,
sugar, baking powder, baking soda, *Ahead-of-time note: These are best
and salt in a big bowl. When the served hot and fresh , but I've re-
molds or baking sheets are hot, vig- heated them, and also frozen them,
orously and rapidly beat the butter- with good results.
milk into the cornmeal mixture, then
the egg, and finally the ½ cup of oil.
VARIATION
Forming. Plan to work fast at this
point-and remember that the metals Boston Brown Bread
are hot!
Boston Brown Bread, steamed in the
traditional coffee can, is where it
should be-with Boston Baked Beans
on page 335.
Eggs
I
Eggs Boiled, Steamed, Peeled,
Stuffed, Poached, and Scrambled
Eggs in Omelettes
and Timbales
Eggs in Cheese, Vanilla, and

Chocolate Souffles
The egg, that perfect, pristine, pri- for their puffing abilities in souffies, and sanitary regulations are strictly
mal object-we may not gobble it up but also in cakes where perfectly enforced in your area. If we, the
as profusely now as we used to, but beaten egg whites give air and lig ht- public, are alert and demanding, our
every mouthful should be memo- ness. We need them for their thick- elected officials have no choice but to
rable. The hard-boiled egg must be ening abilities not only in the tender follow.
perfectly done and smoothly peeled, caramel custards and timbales de- Use Grade AA or Grade A
the scrambled eggs tender and scribed here, but in sauces like hol- eggs, and never buy or use cracked
creamy, the poached egg beautifully landaise and mayonnaise. We want or dirty eggs since broken or contam-
shaped, the omelette a dream , the them as binders in stuffings and meat inated shells may have allowed harm-
timbale custard subtly flavored, and mi xtures. Thus the egg is not only a ful bacteria to penetrate. Keep raw
the souffie proudly puffed. This chap- delicacy by itself, but one of the eggs and egg di shes refrigerated,
-ter is a short reminder of the way to most useful staples in the culinary serve cooked egg dishes as soon as
cook eggs, with a master recipe and hierarchy. they are done; wash hands, utensils ,
an example or two in each category. WARNING. Be sure that your eggs and work surfaces in hot soapy when-
Eggs, of course, appear through- come from a certified and carefully ever raw eggs are involved in a
out cookery. We need them not only inspected source-and make every recipe.
effort to see that poultry inspection
HARD-BOILED EGGS The cooking. Lay the eggs in the pan

and add the amount of cold water
T he perfect HB egg has a ten-

der white, and a yolk prop-
erly set. And the perfect HB egg
specified. Set over high heat and
bring just to the boil; remove from
heat, cover the pan, and let sit exactly
17 minutes.
shows not the faintest darkening of
yolk where the white encircles it-a The 2-minute chill. When the time is
most unappetizing chemical reaction, up, transfer the eggs to the bowl of
shown at right in the photograph, ice cubes and water. Chill for 2 min-
At left, the perfect HB egg. At right, the dolefully
caused by too much heat. Further- utes while bringing the cooking
discolored, badly cooked yolk .
more, the perfect HB egg can be water to the boil again. The 2-minute
peeled neatly. chilling shrinks the body of the egg
t MASTER RECIPE from the shell.
The system described here, devel-
oped some years ago by the Georgia To H ard-Boil and Peel Eggs The JO-second boil. Transfer the eggs
Egg Board, takes a bit of fussing, ( 6 at a time only) to the .boiling
but it does produce the perfect HB Here the eggs are not boiled; rather water, bring to the boil again, and let
egg-and what a blessing that is they are brought to the boil, then sit boil for 10 seconds-which in turn
when you've several dozen to do. in the hot water until cooked through. expands the shell from the egg. Re-
That's coddling-for a nonrubbery turn the eggs to the ice water, crack-
white and just-cooked-through yolk. ing the shells gently in several places.
SPECIAL NOTE MANUFACTURING NOTES:
Preventing that dark line around the
Help for Recalcitrant yolk. Chilling the eggs promptly pre-
Pricking. There is a bubble of air in
vents that dark line from forming,
Peelers the large end of the egg, which ex-
and, if you have time, leave the eggs
pands when the egg is heated and can
in the ice water (adding more ice if
If you have eggs boiled by another crack the shell. To let that air escape,
needed) for 15 to 20 minutes before
system and find them hard to peel, always prick the large end with an
peeling. Chilled eggs are easier to
try the chill and 10-second boil-it egg pricker or a pin, going in a good
peel, too. Or peel them, as described
can help just by expanding the shell. ¼ inch.
in the next paragraph, and ice them
at once.
How much water? That depends on
how many eggs you have. The water
Peeling. Crack an egg all over by
should cover the eggs by 1 inch, so
gently tapping it against the sink.
use a tall pan, and I would hesitate,
Then, starting at the large end, and
under home conditions, to do more
holding the egg either under a thin
than 2 dozen eggs at once.
stream of cold water or in the bowl of
ice water, start peeling. As soon as
For 1 to 4 eggs ... 2 quarts of water
you have peeled it, return the egg to
For 12 eggs ...... 3 ½ quarts of water
the ice water so that it will continue
For 24 eggs ...... 6 quarts of water
to chill.
An egg pricker or drafting pin; a high Storing the HB eggs. They will keep
rather than wide saucepan with cover; perfectly in the refrigerator, sub-
a bowl of sufficient size with ice cubes merged in water in an uncovered con-
and water to cover eggs tainer, for 2 to 3 days.
JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK EGGS 63
SPECIAL NOTE
A Simple Stuffing for

HB Eggs
For 2 dozen eggs, cut the eggs in

half lengthwise with a sharp knife
dipped in cold water, then puree the
yolks through a sieve or food mill
into a bowl. Blend in ¼ cup of may-
onnaise, 4 tablespoons of soft butter,
2 tablespoons of chopped sweet pickle
or piccalilli, and salt and freshly
ground pepper to taste. The whites
are quick and easy to fill using a pas-
try bag with fluted tube. Decorate
with parsley or a bit of red pimiento,
as shown here.
A few of many other stuffing ideas.

After sieving the yolks and blending
in mayonnaise, soft butter, salt, and
pepper, blend in:
Fresh herbs, such as minced parsley

and/or chives or tarragon to taste, or
Mushroom duxelles -minced

mushrooms sauteed with herbs and
shallots, or
Asparagus tips, blanched, warmed

in butter and shallots, and finely
minced, or
Lobster, crab, or shrimp, sauteed in

butter and shallots, and finely
chopped, or
Curried onions -minced onions

sauteed in butter with a good pinch
of curry powder.
I MASTER RECIPE
To Poach an Egg
Three Aids to Perfectly Poached Eggs:
A 10-second boil in the shell. Prick

the large end of the eggs with an egg
pricker or drafting pin, going down
¼ inch, so that the pocket of air in
P erforated oval metal egg cups for perfect poached The poached egg itself, the cu ps, th e as pi c, the
the shell may escape. Lower the eggs,
eggs every time ham, and the chilled decorations
no more than 4 at a time, into boiling
water, submerging them completely,
POACHED EGGS for exactly 10 seconds. This slightly *Ahead-of-time note: Remove the eggs
coagulates a film of white around the from the poaching water and sub-
T body of the egg, and helps keep a merge in a bowl of cold water (or
he perfect poached egg is a reasonably fresh egg in shape. iced water), and store in the refriger-
graceful free-form egg- ator uncovered, where they will keep
shaped oval; the yolk, which is softly The oval perforated egg cup. The nicely 2 to 3 days.
liquid, is completely enrobed by the oval perforated egg-poacher cup is
white . Really fresh eggs are easy in- the key to success. Arrange the egg To Serve Poached Eggs Hot: If chilled,
deed to poach-crack them one by cups in the pan of simmering water lower them into almost simmering
· one into barely simmering water and to cover them by ½ inch. After the lightly salted water and leave 1 min-
they form themselves perfectly. That pricking and the 10-second boil, rap- ute. Remove the eggs, one at a time,
is because the white of a really fresh idly break the eggs into the cups. with a slotted spoon and roll each one
egg clings closely around the yolk . Poach at the bare simmer 4 minutes. over a clean towel to blot up excess
However, as the days go by the white moisture.
begins to relax, until in extreme old Vinegar in extremis. If you must
age it trails off in the water leaving have poached eggs and have only
the yolk almost naked-not a pretty store-bought eggs but no egg poach-
sight . ers, add 2 ½ tablespoons of white Poached Eggs with
vinegar per quart of poaching water. Mushrooms: A Hot
Few of us have really fresh eggs After the pricking and the 10-second Suggestion
available, but the following system boil, drop the eggs in, breaking the
works for reasonably fresh store- shell as close to the surface of the For an elegant first course or lun-
bought eggs. water as possible, and poach 4 min- cheon dish, prepare the large Stuffed
utes. Although vinegar causes a Mushroom Caps on page 3 13, top
faintly perceptible thickening to form each wi th a hot poached egg, a spoon-
around the outside of the egg, it most ful of cheese sauce, and a sprinkling
definitely does help the egg to of cheese; run briefly under the
coagulate. broiler to brown.
To Serve Poached Eggs. Cold. Place

them in ice water for 2 to 3 minutes.
Drain one by one in a slotted spoon
and roll the egg over a clean towel.
Poached Eggs in Aspic:

A Cold Suggestion
Poached eggs in fancy dress, nestled

in wine-flavored aspic-they are easy
to do, budget priced, and lovely ob-
jects to serve your guests at a summer
luncheon.
For 6 chilled poached eggs
4 cups Port wine aspic (page 16)

Chilled decorations ( such as those
pictured here): pimiento and
cooked carrot shapes; blanched
green scallion tops; sliced stuffed
olives; black olives; rounds of
thinly sliced boiled ham for final
layer

6 chilled custard cups of 2/2 -cup capac-
The elegant poached egg in aspic
ity on a tray; a small saucepan for
chilling aspic; a bow l with ice cubes and
water to cover; a fork and skewer for
arranging decorations Filling to the brim. Fill the cups with SCRAMBLED EGGS
more cold , almost-set aspic and cover
First layer of aspic. Pour a ¼-inch
P
with the rounds of ham. Chill an
layer of aspic into the bottoms of the hour before unmolding. erfect scrambled eggs are ten-
custard cups and refrigerate for 10 der and creamy, really a kind
minutes, or until set. *Ahead-of-time note: May be made a of broken custard. The only secret is
day or two in advance; refrigerate, to do them slowly over low heat, so
The decorations. Pour a cup of the as- covered with plastic. that the eggs coagulate into soft
pic into the small pan, set over the curds. You don't want the eggs too
ice, and, when cold but not set, dip Unmolding and serving. One by one, deep in the pan or they will take too
each decoration into it so that the dec- dip the cups in very hot water just to long to cook, and if there is too shal-
oration will adhere as you arrange it loosen the aspic, run the blade of a low a layer they will cook too
over the aspic layer. (Rewarm and re- thin knife around the inside edge if quickly-a one-inch layer is easy to
chill the pan of aspic as necessary. ) necessary, and unmold onto chilled handle, and a no-stick pan is certainly
plates or a platter. my choice: the 10-inch size does
In go the eggs. One by one drain the nicely for 6 to 8 eggs. Plain scram-
chilled eggs, roll them dry on a clean Other Aspics: See also the Chicken in bled eggs are lovely for breakfast,
towel, and place b@st side down over Aspic, both simple and fancy, on but chopped green herbs are always
the decorations. Spoon cold and page 145, and the Mediterranean an attractive addition, especially
almost-set aspic around each egg to Fish Aspic on page 26. chopped fresh parsley, chives, or tar-
come a third of the way up, and chill ragon-add t le m along with the sea-
10 minutes or until set-to anchor sonings as you beat the eggs before
the eggs and decorations. scrambling them.
I MASTER RECIPE VA RIATIO N Making the burrito skins. Whisk the

eggs in a bowl with the seasonings to
To Scramble Eggs Dilled Scrambled Eggs: A taste. Set the frying pan over moder-
Cold Suggestion ately high heat and brush lightly with
For 8 eggs, serving 4 to 6 butter; pour in I ½ tablespoons of
I first had these in Norway, with my egg and tilt the pan in all directions
8 eggs
first dilled salmon, gravlaks. Season to film the bottom. Cover the pan for
the scrambled eggs with chopped a few seconds until the egg has set,
1 Tbs or more butter
fresh dill, and serve them forth with then slide it out onto wax paper, step
1 Tbs or more heavy cream, optional
the salmon-a happy accompani- I. Repeat , making 8 in all.
Optional minced fresh herbs: 3 or 4
ment. The Norwegians also include
Tbs minced parsley, or parsley
potatoes creamed in a dill-flavored The scrambled egg.filling. Following
and chives, chervil, tarragon, or
sauce, and the combination of the preceding master recipe, softly
dill
salmon, potatoes, and eggs is a win- scramble the remaining egg mixture.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: ning luncheon or supper dish. Blend with the cottage cheese and
A mixing bowl and fo rk; a 10-inch no- herbs, and adjust seasonings to taste.
stick f rying pan, and a straight-edged
wooden or plastic spatula; warm plates Forming the burritos. Roll up a por-
Egg Burritos: A Hot tion of scrambled egg in each burrito
Cooking the eggs. Break the eggs into Suggestion skin, as shown, step 2.
the bowl , adding salt and pepper to
taste , and beat just to blend yolks and Scrambled eggs enclosed in egg tor- Ready for the oven. Turn the tomato
whites. Set the fr ying pan over mod- tillas-serve them for breakfast, sauce into the baking dish, and ar-
erately low heat and add enoug h but- brunch, lunch, or supper. And the range the burritos on top. Sprinkle
ter to film the bottom and sides; pour good news here is that you can get on the grated cheese.
in all but 2 tablespoons of the beaten them all ready for heating and serv-
eggs. Slowly scrape the bottom of the ing well in advance. *Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared
pan from the edges toward the center in advance; cover and refrigerate.
with the spatula , continuing slowly as For 8 burritos
the eggs gradually coagulate-it will H eating and serving-about 7 to 1 0
12 eggs
take them a minute or so to start minutes at 4 5 0°F. Preheat the oven to
Seasonings: salt, freshly ground
thickening-don't rush them. In 2 to 45 0°F. Shortly before serving, bake
pepper, and hot pepper sauce
3 minutes or so the eggs will have in the upper third level of the pre-
1 to 2 Tbs butter
thickened into a softly lumpy cus- heated oven just until the sauce
½ cup cottage cheese
tard-cook them a fe w seconds bubbles and the cheese has melted .
Herbs : ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley
longer if they are too soft for your Do not overheat!
and ¼ tsp fresh or dried thyme
taste. Fold in the 2 tablespoons of 2 cups fine tomato sauce (page 358)
beaten egg, to cream the scramble. ¼ cup grated Cheddar cheese
Carefully correct seasoning and , if
you wish, fold in a tablespoon or so SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
additional butter and/or cream, and A small no-stick pan, 6-inch bottom di-
the optional herbs. ameter; a cov er of some sort fo r the pan;
a stack of eight 6-inch-square pieces of
Seri1ing. Serve at once on warm (not wax paper; a lightly buttered baking
hot) plates. Accompany with , for in- and serving dish
stance, bacon or sausage or ham ,
broiled tomatoes, and buttered toast
wedges.
I. Covering pan while burrito cooks; finished skins

at left
2. Rolling up with the filling Egg burritos, filled , and ready for the oven
OMELETTES Fabled Dione Lucas, one of the great sleeves sold with some of these
early cooking teachers and omelette pans-they're almost impossible to
0
practitioners, had a special heavy alu- get off when you want to put the pan
melettes are such fun to minum pan that no one was ever al- in the oven for one reason or another.
make when you toss them lowed to touch. And there were the Get used to wearing a towel hung at
off, as shown here. A fresh green black French steel pans 1/1 6 inch thick your waist, as chefs do, and grab the
salad, a glass of white wine, and an that ·needed special curing and very handle with that.
omelette make a lunch worth waiting special care. Some cooks insist to this
the 3 0 seconds it takes to make one, day that only the French iron pan
and I say fie to those oenophilic gives the right color and consistency
spoilsports who insist that wine goes to an omelette. Wonderful pans they The 2 - to 3 - egg omelette . Unless
with neither eggs nor salads. Wine is are, but try to find one for sale in this you are a whiz with a restaurant stove
essential with anything! Particularly country. The pan to look for is the and heat source, I don't recommend
omelettes for lunch. Wearever professional pan made of more than the 2-egg omelette, 3 at
professional-quality aluminum, with most, since the eggs should be soft
heavy-duty no-stick interior. and tender inside, enclosed by a cloak
of lightly browned coagulated egg.
Manufacturing Notes: It has a 10-inch top diameter, a 7 ½ - Too many eggs and you risk a
inch bottom diameter, and the sides, second-class result. Besides, at 20 to
The omelette pa n . In the days be- with the slightest curve, are 2 inches 3 0 seconds per omelette, you can
fore no-stick pans, to find the right high. It is not only an omelette pan, serve a goodly number of people in
omelette pan was a real problem. but the pan you will use most-of all just a few minutes.
your frying pans-for general cook-
ing. Don't bother with the rubber
I. Beaten eggs pou red into middle of hot pan 2 . Shaki ng and swirli ng pan by its handle 3. Jerking pan toward you
4. Push any stray egg into mass with spatu la . 5. Banging on pan handle with fist 6. Turning the omelette onto the plate
I MASTER RECIPE For a ] -serving omelette
2 "large" eggs
The Tossed Omelette
1 tsp water
Remember that a tossed omelette goes
1 to 1 ½ Tbs butter
very fast-really in 20 seconds-far,
Optional serving suggestions: 1 tsp
far less time than it takes to read all
soft butter; parsley sprigs
the directions here. Give a dry run
or two before you actually cook your SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
first omelette so that you are fully fa- The no-stick 10-inch frying pan previ-
7. Shoring up the edges for a neat presentation
miliar with the movements. Plan to ously described; warm plates
make 5 or more omelettes one after
the other for friends or family, dar- The eggs. Break the eggs into a bowl, begins to color, pour the eggs into
ing to be fast and rough and confi- add the teaspoon of water, and salt the middle of the pan, step 1-they
dent (whatever happens!). Then you and pepper to taste. Whisk with a should hiss gently as they_ go in, indi-
will quickly master the technique of fork just to blend yolks and whites. cating also that the pan is hot enough.
the jerk, a straight rough pull of the
pan toward you by its handle-not a Heating the pan. Set the pan over Coagulating the bottom. At once shake
toss. highest heat, add the butter, and as it and swirl the pan by its handle to dis-
melts tilt the pan in all directions to tribute the eggs over the surface, step
film the bottom and sides. Watch the 2; then hold it still over heat for 2 to
butter carefully-when the foam be- 3 seconds, to form a film of coagu-
gins to subside and the butter just lated egg on the bottom of the pan.
VARIATIONS
Fillings
Fresh Herbs: Omelette
aux Fines Herbes
Whisk a tablespoon of fresh minced

herbs into the eggs before making the
omelette-parsley alone, or parsley
and chives, chervil, or tarragon.
Sprinkle a good pinch on top of the
omelette before serving.
Cheese Omelette
After the eggs have coagulated on the

bottom of the pan and before jerking
the omelette to form it, rapidly
spread 2 tablespoons of grated Swiss
8. The finished omelette cheese over the eggs, then proceed.
The omelette forms in the pan. Now, and tilt the two toward each other,
holding the pan by its handle, start step 6. Then reverse the pan over the
Potato Omelette
jerking it toward you-thus throw- plate to dislodge the omelette upon it.
ing the egg mass against the far edge If it is not turned out neatly, shore up
Follow the preceding cheese ome-
of the pan, step 3. Keep jerking the edges with a spatula, step 7.
lette, but spread on ½ cup or so of
roughly, gradually tilting the far
diced potatoes that have been sauteed
edge of the pan over the heat as the Serving. If you wish, rub the butter
with herbs and shallots ( page 3 2 7).
omelette begins to roll over on itself. over the top of the omelette and deco-
Push any stray egg into the mass with rate with parsley, step 8. Serve at once.
Other Fillings. A few more of the
a spatula, if necessary, step 4. When
many possibilities:
nicely formed at the far edge, bang
on the handle close to the near edge VARIATIONS Sauteed mushrooms or chicken livers
with your left fist and the omelette
or diced ham, or
will begin to curl at its far edge, step Serving a Crowd
5. It is done.
Piperade -green and red bell
Have a big bowl or pitcher for your peppers sauteed with onions and
Omelette onto plate. Turn the pan
whisked and seasoned eggs, a whisk garlic ( page 9 0)-or
handle to your right, grab the under-
to beat them lightly before each ome-
side of the handle with your right lette, and a long-handled ladle that Broccoli florets (page 269 ), cooked
hand palm up and thumb on top, holds a scant ½ cup-2 «large" eggs chopped spinach ( page 2 78), or aspar-
hold a warm plate in your left hand, measure 6 to 7 tablespoons, or a little agus tips, warmed first in butter and
less than ½ cup. Then with your seasonings, or
butter measured out, and a stack of
warm plates, you are ready to per- Lobster, shrimp, or crab, warmed
form with speed and grace. first in butter and seasonings.
TIMBALES: MOLDED 1 cup toasted and buttered bread Serving notes:

CUSTARDS crumbs, optional
2/3 cup heavy cream or milk As a main-course accompaniment. If
T
Seasonings: 1 tsp salt, 8 grinds of the timbales are to accompany a main
hey are very French, tim- fresh w hite peppercorns, 8 drops course, such as a roast of beef or tur-
bales-very much home of hot pepper sauce key, serve them as is or topped wi th
cooking-carefully flavored chopped A kettle of boiling water buttered crumbs.
or pureed cooked vegetables or
Accompaniments:
chicken livers or ham, baked with As a main course. Here you will
See serving notes, at end of recipe need a sauce-fresh tomato sauce
eggs and seasonings in a deep dish
like a charlotte mold, then unmolded ( page 3 5 8), or a light bechamel
SP ECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
for serving. A vegetable timbale is an ( page 2 7 2) with chopped fresh
A corn grater is most useful here; 12
attractive accompaniment to roasts or herbs-or a fresh green vegetable
buttered custard cups 2/2 - to ¼ -cup si'ze
grilled meats, and any of them make accompaniment.
( 5 to 6 ounces); a roasting pan to hold
the main course for a luncheon or the cups
supper. Leftovers may be reheated in a
water bath, or eaten cold.
The timbale mixture. Scrape or grate
the corn into a big mixing bowl, then
beat in the eggs and the rest of the in-
t MASTER RECIPE
gredients listed. Taste for seasoning.
Quiche Note:
Pour into the custard cups, filling
Individual Timbales of Fresh them by no more than five eighths .
Corn Arrange them in the roasting pan.
The quiches starting on page 3 84,
both those baked in crusts and the
T hi s is one of my favorites in the crustless quiches, are close relatives
Baking-about 30 minutes at 350°F
timbale category, and the good news of the timbale.
and 325°F. Preheat the oven to
is that you can make it any time of
3 5 0°F. Set the pan in the middle
the year- out-of-season corn is fine
level of the preheated oven, and pour
as long as it is fresh.
enough boiling water around the cups VARIATIONS
to come halfway up their outsides.
For 12 individual molds
Bake 5 minutes at 3 5 0°F, lower the A Large Corn Timbale
3 cups grated fre sh com (about a thermostat to 325°F, and bake 25
doz en ears) minutes more, regulating oven heat For drama, you may bake the timbale
6 "large" eggs so the water in the pan barely in one 2-quart fairly straight-sided
2
/3 cup lightly pressed dow n crumbs bubbles, never actually boils. dish about 3 ½ inches high-like a
from fresh crustless homemade charlotte mold. Set it in a water bath
type w hite bread When are they done? When a skewer coming halfway up the outside of the
3 Tbs grated onion plunged down through the center dish, but count on 1 ¼ to 1 ½ hours
¼ cup lightly pressed dow n, minced comes out almost clean. Remove the of oven time. Regulate the oven so
fresh parsley pan from the oven and let the tim- the water never comes to more than
2
/3 cup lightly pressed dow n, grated bales settle for 10 minutes. the slow bubble. If it actually boils ,
Sw is:, and/or Cheddar and/or the timbale will overcook and look
mozzarella cheese *Ahead-of-time note: You may leave grarny.
them in the pan of water in the
turned-off oven, its door ajar, for a
good 30 minutes before serving.
SPECIAL N OTE
Cream of Mushroom Sauce
2 cups medium bechamel sauce

(page 272)
½ cup mushroom duxelles (page
314)
Optional enrichments: dollops of
sour cream or spoonfuls of butter
Simmer the bechamel and mush-

rooms together for several minutes to
blend flavors. Carefull y correct sea-
soning. Just before serving, if you
wish , stir in several tablespoons of
heavy cream or, off heat and by
spoonfuls, 2 to 3 tablespoons of
butter.
Timbale with toasted and buttered bread crumbs
Spinach, Broccoli, or Ham Timbale Chicken Liver Timbale

Asparagus T imbale
Substitute 3 cups of pureed cooked Substitute chicken livers and raw
Substitute 3 cups of beautifully ham for the corn, adding a table- chicken breast for the corn as follows:
cooked, carefully flavored, and finely spoon or so of tomato paste for color. Saute 2 ½ cups of chicken livers in
chopped fresh spinach ( page 2 78), The Cream of Mushroom Sauce (see butter and minced shallots until
broccoli florets ( page 269), or aspar- Special Note) is a fine accompaniment barely springy to the touch, and still
agus tips for the corn. here. rosy inside . Puree in a blender or
processor with 1 cup of raw chicken
breast and the eggs and cream or
milk called for in the recipe. Then
proceed as directed . As a finishing
touch, a little Bearnaise sauce ( page
87) would glorify each serving.
SOUFFLES When is it done ? A souffie baked in

a dish should puff 2 to 3 inches over
T
the rim, and the top should be nicely
he souffie is undoubtedly the browned. The puff should hold up
egg at its most magnificent , when you release the collar just a
the egg in all its puffing power. How little bit to check-if the puff sags,
impressive is the chocolate or cheese rapidly refasten the collar and bake a
souffie, its head rising dramatically few minutes more. If you want the
out of its dish, and swaying ever so puff to hold and the souffie to stand a
slightly as it is borne to the table. reasonable time, test it by plunging a
skewer down into the side of the puff:
Fortunately, a reasonably well- if wet particles cling to it the souffie
assembled souffie can be an automatic will be creamy inside and will not
happenstance: a flavo r base into which hold as long as if the skewer comes
stiffly beaten egg whites are incorpo- out almost clean. The fateful decision
rated. When the mixture is baked, is up to you.
the heat of the oven expands the air
bubbles in the egg whites and the Remov ing the collar
whole mass rises. It stays puffed the
SPECIAL NO TE
few minutes needed to serve it; then,
as it cools, the air bubbles deflate and I MASTER RECIPE
For drama, you choose a dish that's a
the souffie collapses. Souffies are not
little too small , so that the souffie
difficult when you have mastered the Cheese Souffle
puffs into a collar. When the collar is
beating of egg whites and the folding For souffies baked in a dish, souffie
removed the puff holds itself 2 to 3 toppings, and souffie roulades
of them into the souffie base.
inches over the rim of the dish. Use
a double thickness of buttered foil The basic cheese souffie is a white
that will rise 3 inches over the top of sauce-bechamel-enriched with
the dish; secure the collar by insert- egg yolks and cheese, into which
The egg whites. They are beaten
ing a straight pin head down-for beaten egg whites are folded.
into stiff shining peaks, as described
easy removal.
and illustrated on pages 461-62.
TIMING: You will undoubtedly feel safer
hovering over your oven during your
first souffie experiences. After two or
three you'll have the confidence to set the
Folding-combining the egg
timer and take yourself off until it sum-
whites and the souffie base. For mons you back into the kitchen.
maximum puff, the beautifully
beaten egg whites must retain their For a I -quart baking dish 8 inches
volume when they are incorporated. across, serving 4
To help retain it, a quarter of the
whites are stirred into the base to 2 Tbs finely grated Parmesan or
lighten it so that the remainder may other hard cheese
be folded in easily. Folding is 2½ Tbs butter
Attaching the collar
described and illustrated on page 3 Tbs flour
463. 1 cup hot milk
Seasonings: ½ tsp paprika, speck of
nutmeg, ½ tsp salt, and 3 grinds
of white pepper
4 egg yolks
5 egg whites(% cup) cately fold them in, alternating OTHER FLAVORS
1 cup (3½ ounces) coarsely grated scoops of the spatula with sprinkles
Swiss cheese of the coarsely grated cheese-add- Spinach or Broccoli Souffie
ing the cheese now makes for a light
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: souffie. After completing the white sauce, stir
A buttered baking dish 7 ½ to 8 inches in ¼ to ½ cup of cooked chopped
top diameter, 3 inches deep; aluminum *Ahead-of-time note: You may com- fresh spinach ( page 2 7 8) or broccoli
foil; a heavy-bottomed 2 ½-quart sauce- plete the souffie to this point ½ hour (page 269) that you have warmed in
pan; a wire whisk, wooden spoon, and or so in advance; cover loosely with a butter, shallots, and seasonings. Cut
large rubber spatula; egg-white beating sheet of foil and set away from drafts. down on the grated Swiss cheese- 1/3
equipment ( pages 4 61-62) to ½ cup should be enough.
Baking-25 to 30 minutes at 400°F
Preliminaries. Roll the grated cheese and 375°F. Set in the preheated oven,
in the buttered baking dish to cover turn the thermostat down to 3 7 5°F,
the bottom and side, and fasten on and bake until the souffie has puffed 2 Crab, Lobster, or Shrimp
the aluminum collar ( see Special to 3 inches over the rim of the bak- · Souffie
Note). Preheat the oven to 400°F, ing dish into the collar, and the top
and set the rack in the lower third has browned nicely (see "When is it Substitute chopped or finely diced
level. Measure out all the ingredients done ?" notes preceding this section). shellfish for the vegetables in the pre-
listed. ceding suggestion. A hollandaise
Serving. As soon as it is done, re- sauce or the white butter sauce with
The white sauce-bechamel. Following move the collar, then bring the souf- tomato fondue on page 91 would be
the detailed directions on page 272, fle to the table. To keep the puff attracti ve accompaniments.
stir and cook the butter and flour to- standing, hold your serving spoon
gether in the saucepan over moderate and fork upright and back to back;
heat for 2 minutes without coloring. plunge them into the crust and tear it
Remove from heat, let cool a mo- apart. Salmon Souffie
ment, then pour in all the hot milk or Other Cooked Fish
and whisk vigorously to blend. Re-
turn to heat, stirring with a wooden Stir flaked cooked salmon or other
spoon, and boil slowly 3 minutes. fish, or canned salmon, into the fin-
The sauce will be very thick. Whisk ished whi te sauce. Two or three table-
in the seasonings, and remove from spoons of shallots sauteed in butter
heat. are often helpful for fish other than
salmon, as well as a spoonful or two
Finishing the sauce base. One by one, of minced fresh dill or parsley. In
whisk the egg yolks into the hot some instances you may wish to ac-
sauce. company the souffie with a lightly
cooked fresh tomato sauce, such as
The egg whites. In a clean separate that on page 3 5 8, or a colorful pi per-
bowl with clean beaters, beat the egg ade (sauteed onions with strips of red
whites to stiff shining peaks as de- and green peppers; see the rolled
scribed on page 461. souffie variations farther on).
Finishing the souffie mixture. Scoop a

quarter of the egg whites on top of
the sauce and stir them in with a Serving the souffie
wooden spoon. Turn the rest of the
egg whites on top; rapidly and deli-
Souffie on a Platter 1 tsp salt and several grinds of white Preliminaries. Prepare the pan, pre-
pepper heat the oven to 425°F, measure out
A souffie does not have to be baked in all the ingredients listed, and prepare
The souffie mixture
a dish. Try baking it on a platter in- the filling.
3 cups of the preceding bechamel
stead. Arrange mounds of creamed
sauce The bechamel sauce. Following the
lobster ( page 107), or crab, or
Seasonings:¾ tsp paprika, pinch of master souffie recipe, make the be-
poached eggs on butter-sauteed crou-
nutmeg, ¾ tsp salt, 5 grinds of chamel sauce. Remove and reserve 2
tons, on a buttered baking and serv-
white pepper cups for later.
ing platter. Divide the cheese souffie
6 egg yolks
mixture in mounds over each, top
6 egg whites, stiffly beaten The souffte mixture. Whisk the season-
with a sprinkling of grated Swiss
1 cup coarsely grated Swiss cheese ings into the remaining 3 cups of
cheese, and bake 15 minutes or so in
a 425°F oven. The mounded soufHes For unmolding the souffie: sauce and beat in the egg yolks. Stir
will puff to double and brown on top. ½ cup fresh white bread crumbs, in a quarter of the beaten egg whites,
toasted and tossed in 2 Tbs melted and delicately fold in the rest, alter-
butter nating with sprinklings of cheese.
Heavy cream
The Rolled Souffle Grated Swiss cheese Into the jelly-roll pan. Spread the
Souffie roulade Droplets of milk, if needed souffie mixture over the wax paper in
the prepared pan, see illustration,
The rolled soufHe makes a particu- SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: step 1.
larly attractive luncheon dish, and A lightly buttered jelly-roll pan lined
you have an almost infinite choice of with buttered wax paper that extends 2 B aking-12 to 1 5 minutes at 4 2 5°F.
fillings, from the luxury of lobster to inches beyond the 2 short sides; a baking Immediately set in the upper middle
the gutsy penury of broccoli. Here sheet for unmolding the souffte level of the preheated oven and bake
it's a piperade, with its colorful red
and green pepper strips.
MANUFACTURING NOTE: You want a

6-egg souffte here to fill a jelly-roll
pan-in other words, approximately
half again the ingredients for the 4-egg
master cheese souffte. In the recipe illus-
trated here, I've made extra bechamel
sauce, part for the souffte itself, part to
go into the filling, and the rest to ac-
company the roulade.
For a 10- by 16-inch souffte, serving 6
1½ cups of filling (see· suggestions at

end of recipe)
The bechamel sauce (for 5 cups)

4 ounces ( 1 stick) butter
213 cup flour
3 cups hot milk, plus droplets more,
if needed
just until well set-do not overcook SAUCES

or it will break when rolled up.
A little sauce is really needed, since
Unmolding. Remove from the oven the soufile is not moist. You may pre-
and sprinkle with three quarters of fer a fresh tomato sauce ( page 3 5 8).
the toasted crumbs. Cover with a
sheet of wax paper and lay the baking
sheet on top, step 2; reverse the two FILLINGS
and let cool 5 minutes. Remove the
jelly-roll pan (now on top), using the All kinds of fillings can go into these
I . Spreading the souffie over the wax paper
wax paper overhang to help you. rolled soufiles, really the same ideas
Carefully peel off the wax paper. used for the soufiles cooked in a bak-
Trim ¼ inch off the brittle edges of ing dish-cooked broccoli or spinach
the soufile all around to prevent it warmed in butter and seasonings, or
from cracking when rolled up. such luxuries as lobster, shrimp, or
crab. The Pi perade green and red
*Ahead-of-time note: If you are not pepper filling pictured here is on
ready to serve, cover the soufile page 90, and following is one with
loosely with wax paper and set over a ham and mushrooms .
pan of barely simmering water.
2. Before unmolding, cover with wax paper and The reserved 2 cups of bechamel. Re-
upside-down baking sheet. heat the reserved 2 cups of bechamel Ham and Mushroom Filling
sauce, and spread half of it over the Another good filling.
soufile. The remainder will surround
the roulade; stir in a little cream and 3 cups quartered fresh mushrooms
several tablespoons of grated cheese, 2 Tbs butter
thin out with droplets more milk if 1 Tbs minced shallots or scallions
necessary, and season very carefully About 1 cup diced cooked ham
to taste-it should be light and The reserved 1 cup bechamel sauce
delicious.
Saute the mushrooms rapidly in the
Filling and serving. Spread three butter, adding shallots or scallions
quarters of whatever filling you have and ham at the last moment. Season
3. Spreading on the filling
chosen over the sauce on the soufile, to taste. Spread a 1/s-inch layer of the
step 3. Roll up the soufile starting at bechamel sauce over the soufile, then
one of the long sides, using the wax cover with ham mixture. Complete as
paper to help you, step 4. Transfer to in the preceding recipe.
a hot serving platter, and strew on
the remaining crumbs and the re-
served filling. Surround with the
sauce, and serve.
4 . Rolling it up
76 JULI A CHILD THE WAY TO COOK
DESSERT SOUFFLES SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: Baking-30 to 35 minutes at 400°F

A 6-cup baking dish such as a charlotte and 3 75°F. Set in the lower third of
Souffie for dessert-it invariably mold 3 ½ inches deep; aluminum foil; a the preheated oven, turn the thermo-
brings excitement and always plea- 2½-quart stainless saucepan; a whisk, stat down to 3 7 5°F, and bake until
sure. You can make a dessert souffie a wooden spoon, and a rubber spatula; the souffie has begun to puff and
using the usual bechamel white-sauce egg-white beating equipment ( page 461) brown-about 20 minutes.
base, or a pastry cream creme patis-
siere base, but I prefer the following Preliminaries. Butter the baking dish, The confectioners sugar, and finish.
bouillie, which I think makes a roll the sugar around in it to cover Slide the rack out gently; quickly
lighter souffie. the bottom and sides, and pin on an dust the top of the souffie with sifted
aluminum foi l collar (see Special confectioners sugar, and continue
Note, page 72) . Preheat the oven to baking until the souffie has puffed 2
400°F, and set the rack in the lower to 3 inches over the rim of the bak-
I MASTER RECIPE third level. Measure out all the in- ing dish into the collar, and the top
gredients listed. has browned nicely under the sugar
Vanilla Souffle coating-see "When is it done?"
The bouillie sauce base. Whisk the notes on page 7 2.
Like vanilla ice cream, vanilla souffie flour and half of the milk in the
is always attractive since , good as it is saucepan to blend; beat in the rest of Serving. As soon as it is done, bring
by itself, you can add to your plea- the milk and the sugar. Stir with a the sou.file to the table. To keep the
sure by accompanying it with fruits wooden spoon over moderately high puff standing, hold your serving
or a marvelous sauce as suggested in heat until the sauce thickens, then spoon and fork upright and back to
the Special N ote on page 77. whisk as the sauce comes to the boil; back; plunge them into the crust and
continue boiling and whisking for 3 0 tear it apart.
For a 6-cup dish, serving 4 seconds. T he sauce will be very
thick; let cool for a moment, then
A little soft butter and granulated
beat the egg yolks one by one into the
sugar for the dish SPECIAL NO TE
warm sauce. Beat in the optional
The bouillie sauce base butter.
Vanilla Beans
3 Tbs flour
¼ cup milk The egg whites. In a clean separate
Vanilla beans have lost their savor for
113 cup granulated sugar bowl with clean beaters, beat the egg
me and I have sadly given them up.
4 egg yolks whites until foaming; add the salt and
However, if you are lucky enough to
2 Tbs soft butter, optional beat to soft peaks. Sprinkle in the
find good ones, you can, for instance,
sugar, and beat to stiff shining peaks,
5 egg whites beaten to soft peaks slit 2 of them in half and bury them
as described on page 46 1.
Pinch of salt several days in a jar with a pound of
2 Tbs granulated sugar granulated sugar, or warm a whole
Finishing the souffle. Whisk the vanilla
2 Tbs pure vanilla extract bean for 2 0 minutes in a covered
into the sauce base, and stir in a
Confectioners sugar in a fine- saucepan with the milk you are using
quarter of the egg whites to lighten
meshed sieve for the souffie.
it. Delicately and rapidly fold in the
rest of the egg whites. and turn the
souffie into the prepared mold.
*Ahead-of-time note: The souffie may

be completed to this point ½ hour or
more ahead ; cover loosely with a
sheet of foi l and set away from drafts.
J ULI A CHILD THE WAY TO COOK EGGS 77
OTHER FLAVORS For a 2- to 2 ½ -quart baking dish, 7½ The souffle base. Following directions
to 8 inches in diameter, serving 8 in the master recipe, whisk the flour
Orange S ouffie Grand and milk together and boil slowly,
Marnier 7 ounces sweet baking chocolate
this time for 2 minutes , whisking.
smoothly melted with 1/3 cup
Off heat, whisk in the optional but-
strong coffee (pages 463-64)
Follow the directions for the master ter, the salt, and the vanilla, then the
recipe but make a fresh orange fla- The sauce base egg yolks, and finally the smoothly
voring by pureeing in a blender or 1/3cup flour melted chocolate.
food processor the zest (orange part 2 cups milk
of the peel) of 1 large orange with 3 Tbs butter, optional The egg whites . In a clean separate
the sugar called for in the sauce base . A big pinch of salt bowl with clean beaters, beat the egg
After completing the sauce base, beat 1 Tbs pure vanilla extract whites to soft peaks, gradually
in 3 tablespoons of orange liqueur 4 egg yolks sprinkle in the ½ cup sugar, and beat
but only 2 teaspoons of vanilla. Pro- to stiff shining peaks, as described on
ceed with the recipe. You might ac- 6 egg whites (¾ cup) page 461.
company the souffie with prettily ½ cup granulated sugar
prepared and arranged fresh skinless Confectioners sugar in a fine- Combining ingredients. Ladle the
orange segments flavored with a little meshed sieve chocolate sauce base down the side of
sugar and orange liqueur. Optional accompaniment: lightly the egg-white bowl, rapidly fold the
whipped cream flavored with two mixtures together, and turn the
confectioners sugar and pure souffie into the prepared baking dish.
vanilla extract (page 440)
SPECIAL NOTE
Baking-SO to 60 minutes at 425°F
Preliminaries. Melt the chocolate, and 3 75°F. Set the souffie in the
Fresh strawberry or raspberry sauce
measure out all the other ingredients lower level of the preheated oven and
( page 419) is attractive with the
listed, butter the souffie dish, sur- turn the thermostat down to 3 7 5°F.
souffie, or fresh berries, or sliced
round it with a foil collar (see Special
fruits such as mangoes or peaches
Note, page 72), and preheat the oven Confectioners sugar, finishing, and serv-
tossed with sugar and lemon. Choco-
to 425°F. ing. In 3 5 to 40 minutes the souffie
late sauce ( page 422), Zabaione sauce
( page 4 53), and caramel sauce ( page will have puffed and risen an inch or
420) are other ideas. so over the rim of the dish. Follow-
ing directions in the preceding mas-
ter recipe, rapidly sprinkle the top
with confectioners sugar, then finish
Chocolate Souffle the baking, and serve as directed;
pass the optional whipped cream
This is the best formula for chocolate separately.
souffie I have run into so far-it has
a fine chocolate flavor, a subtle tex-
ture, and it holds up well for serv-
ing. The secret is in the egg whites,
which are beaten into a meringue-6
egg 'whites held up with ½ cup of
sugar. The formula is slightly differ-
ent from the preceding master rec-
ipe, but the technique is the same.
Fin Fish & Shellfish
Fish Steaks, Fish Fillets,
and Whole Fish
Broiled, Roasted, Poached,

and Sauteed Fish
Ways with Lobsters,

Shrimp, Scallops, Oysters,
and Mussels
Mousses and Marinades;

Plain and Fancy Sauc.es
Fish has become more and more pop- When you are looking for speed and Following the theme of this book,
ular as a delicious, low-fat, protein- simplicity, for example, bake fish you'll find related items grouped by
rich alternative to meat, especially steaks practically as is in the oven. method-most fish steaks and fillets,
since fast cross-country transportation Or season a handful of fish fillets,· as an example, are part of the baking,
in refrigerated trucks and planes can dust lightly with flour, and saute broiling, or poaching-in-wine cate-
make it possible to buy fish as fresh them rapidly in olive oil or butter. gories. Shellfish, however,. since each
in Minneapolis, Omaha, and Phoe- Or for a fast fat-free presentation, is so different from the other, are in
nix a=? it ·is in Boston or Seattle. And poach fish steaks or fillets in a pan of categories of their own in most cases.
fish fits in well with today's life styles, seasoned liquid on top of the stove To make it easy to locate the capabili-
since there are so many ways to cook and serve them with lemon and pars- ties of a particular fish, a complete
it quickly and easily. ley. On the other hand, when you list of them by name and cooking
choose to be elaborate, you can pre- method is in the index.
sent your fish in a bewildering array
of sauces and garnitures.
BUYING AND STORING place the chilled fish in a plastic bag,

FRESH FISH enclose that in another plastic bag, set SPECIAL NOTE
them in a bowl with ice cubes, and

The popular and well-known species place in the refrigerator. Very fresh Fish and Shellfish Safety
of fish-salmon, trout, halibut, fish will keep for a day or two this
swordfish, gray sole, to name a way, if you renew the ice as necessary. Unfortunately our oceans and har-
few--are becoming more and more bors are becoming increasingly pol-
expensive, and when we are obliged luted, and it is extremely important
to pay dearly for our fish, we most that we buy fish and shellfish from
certainly want every penny of our FROZEN FISH clean safe waters and from an im-
money's worth. peccably reliable supplier.
Frozen fish can be of excellent qual-
.Freshness is the key to the perfect en- ity, again if it is handled correctly by It took years for the poultry industry
joyment of fresh fish, but all depends fishermen, processor, and market. to come under nationwide regula-
on your market and how it handles its When buying it, you really have to tions. It is now high time the fishing
precious and highly perishable trea- depend on the reliability of your industry, the U.S. government, and
sure. Your nose is the best judge of market, since it takes an expert to the authorities in our states establish
that. When you buy fish, open the judge quality by looking at the pack- strict regulations for fish and shell-
package just outside the checkout age. In any case, the fish should have fish. Many states do have regulations,
counter (they rarely let you sniff be- a pleasant smell, and there should be as well as inspection of coastal waters
fore you choose it) and take a very no indication in the package of loose and tags of certification. How do we
careful, unhurried whiff. The fish frozen liquid, a sure sign that the fish know, however, that the regulations
should have a fresh, natural, appetiz- has been thawed and refrozen. are enforced, or how often the waters
ing aroma. If it smells "fishy" or are inspected, or if the certification
chemical or not right in any way, take Ideally, frozen fish has been bled, tags really refer to the merchandise
it immediately to the store manager, gutted, iced, and then frozen right bearing them?
give him a whiff, and get your on the boat at a temperature of minus
money back. He wants satisfied cus- 3 0°F or minus 40°F. It should re- Fish, and especially every batch of
tomers, and he wants to know if any- main at minus 20°F until you buy it, clams, oysters, and mussels, should
thing is wrong. How would he, if and if you are to hold it for more be inspected for bacteria, as is done at
you didn't tell him? All of us should than a few days in your freezer, keep Legal Seafoods, Inc., in Boston. If
encourage our markets to supply it at minus 10°F. Then, to prevent the bacteria count is over the mini-
good fish-and if we speak loudly the ice crystals from cutting into the mum, and especially if there is evi-
enough we may get it. flesh and making it mushy, thaw the dence of fecal bacteria (which can
fish slowly in a bed of ice in the re- indicate the presence of harmful vi-
When you know you are shopping frigerator. This is particularly im- ruses), the whole batch is rejected.
for fish, take along a plastic cooler portant for whole fish and thick fish
and a bag of ice to keep things steaks. Serious and continual bacteriological
chilled. As soon as you are home, inspection seems, at this writing, to
In other words, frozen fish can be be our only safeguard. It is up to us
fine but it really needs all the TLC it as consumers and voters to insist that
can get. all regulations and inspections be en-
forced-and we have to be willing to
pay for them.
J U LIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK FI FISH & SHELLFISH 81
Fillets-the "skin side" and the FISH IN THE OVEN

"best side." The skin side is
rather milky-looking and sometimes
has brownish areas; the "best" side
was next to the bone, is better- BROILING, BRAISING,
looking, and is therefore the serving ROASTING, AND POACHING
side. IN WINE
Fish frame s To score the skin side of a fillet.

To help prevent thin fillets from
curling up when cooked, make
W hether to _broil, braise, or
roast your fish depends
not only on its size and thickness but
also on the effect you want. Thin fil-
diagonal cuts 1 inch apart and less lets are so easy to broil, needing as
than 1/16 inch deep in the skin side, they do only to be seasoned with salt,
see illustration, step 1. Lay the flat of pepper, and perhaps an herb, then
your big knife on the fillet and give brushed with oil or butter before
one firm punch with your fist to being set close under the broiler to
flatten it, step 2. brown 2 to 3 minutes and cook
through-so simple that I need say
no more about them here. Thick fil-
lets and steaks want different treat-
I. Scoring milky side of fish fillets Fish stock (page 23). Made like ment and offer more culinary
chicken stock, from bones and possibilities in the way of saucings
trimmings of fresh fish simply and flavorings. Large whole fish are
simmered for 30 minutes in lightly delectable when simply roasted whole
salted water to cover. as is, but they also do beautifully in a
winey aromatic braise, while the pos-
sibilities for fi sh fillets poached in
wine are almost endless.
F is h s to c k s u b s t i tu t es . I used to
suggest bottled clam juice, but I
often find that to be too salty, too
strong, and/or off in flavor. I now BROILING, BROIL-
2. Flattening a fish fillet often prefer a light or diluted chicken
ROASTING, AND
stock, which gives the needed but
BRAISING
subtle boost of flavor.
SOME FISH TERMS When you grill or barbecue, with

heat coming from underneath, you
Fish frame. The head and bone must turn your fish to cook it on both
Court bouillon. Seasoned liquid in
structure of the fish (minus gills, sides. When you broil, however,
which to poach whole fish or fish
guts, and skin) after the fillets have there is no need to turn it because
fillets. It can be only salted water
been removed, plus the head. Essen- who will see its underneath? You can
with perhaps a little wine vinegar for
tial for making your own fish ·stock, therefore concentrate all your skills
full-flavored fish like salmon. For
but hard to find unless you _live near a on gi ving it a beautiful brown sur-
mild-flavored fish or special effects it
fish processing plant. face. In order for the fish to cook
may contain white wine and aromatic
vegetables.
through yet remain moist, you place cod fillet may take ½ hour or more. ~◄ MASTER RECIPE
it in a pan that will just hold it com- Always, if you have any doubts, cut
fortably and pour a little wine around into the fish to check; it is a shame to Broiled Fish Steaks
the fish to steam the bottom while overcook it. But it is equally
browning the top. disappointing to find a partially raw, For 6 servings
supposedly cooked fish on your plate. 2 pounds fish steaks or fillets ¾ inch
thick, (see Special Note for
suggestions-for thicker steaks,
When is it done?These signs apply see broil-roasting notes at the end
to almost all cooking methods. The A note on tough fish. When I of the recipe)
first indication is when you begin to complained about some tough shark Salt
smell cooked fish, meaning that the steaks, my official fisherman source in Olive oil or peanut oil
juices have swelled in the flesh and Santa Barbara suggested that they ½ to ¾ cup dry white French
are ready to escape. The flesh has may have come from a very large vermouth
turned from translucent to opaque, shark, and that often the larger the 1½ to 2 Tbs soft butter, optional
and is lightly springy to the touch. fish the tougher the flesh. This does
Above all, that flesh is still juicy, and not apply to salmon, however. If you SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
can just be nudged cleanly but juicily catch your own, the fish will be tough A lightly oiled baking dish 1 ½ inches
from the bone. I don't know who if it is still in the rigor mortis (stiff) deep and just roomy enough to hold the
invented the utterly erroneous term state-as I know from eating a fish easily in one layer
"cook until the fish flakes easily": if it bluefish too freshly caught off the
flakes easily-indeed if it flakes at coast of Maine. Preparing the fish. Cut off any sur-
all-it has been woefully (willfully rounding skin, which is tough and
and wrongfully!) overcooked. inedible. I also cut out any brownish
SPECIAL NOTE
flesh, which, while edible, is both
ugly and, I think, unduly oily, par-
Fish for broiling. The universal
ticularly with swordfish. Either leave
Timing. The theory of timing fish the steaks whole for serving on a
favorite is swordfish, but its price is
10 minutes per inch at the thickest daunting. Thresher and mako shark, platter at the table, or cut them into
portion appears to work in some fresh tuna (ahi or yellowfin and serving portions. Keep the fish iced
instances, but timing depends so albacore), and mahi-mahi (dolphin- until just before cooking, then dry it
much on the quality of the fish- fish) are other choices, as well as in paper towels.
whether it is light, or dense like thick fillets of bluefish and salmon.
shark or tuna. Oven timing depends Although you may certainly broil Preparations for broiling. Fifteen min-
also on how long it takes the cooking lean fish like cod, halibut, and bass, I utes or so before you plan to serve,
dish to heat up. A braised salmon think they need an additional boost of preheat the broiler to high, and set
fillet ½ inch thick takes 12 to 15 flavor and suggest the braising the oven rack so the surface of the
minutes, a thicker fillet wants a few technique on page 84. fish will be about 2 inches from the
minutes more, and a 1½- to 2-inch
JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK FIN FISH & SHELLFISH 83
heat element. Season both sides of the Lemon-Butter Sauce for tional parsley, spoon the sauce over
fish lightly with salt, and rub with Broiled Fish Steaks the fish, and serve.
oil. Arrange in the dish and pour 1/s
inch of the vermouth around the fish. The juice of ½ lemon
4 or more Tbs cold unsalted butter,
Broiling. Broil for a minute or two, cut into tablespoon-size pieces Broiled Fish Steaks with
then rapidly spread the optional but- Salt and freshly ground pepper Herbal Tomato Sauce
ter over the surface and continue 3 Tbs minced fresh parsley
broiling about 5 minutes more. The Follow the directions for oven-baked
fish is done when lightly springy to Remove the fish to a platter or plates fish steaks ( page 84).
the touch-cut into it and check if and keep warm in the turned-off
you are not sure. It should be cooked oven, its door ajar. Swish the lemon
through and still juicy. juice in the baking dish, scraping
into it any coagulated juices, then Broil-Roasting for Thick Fish
scrape the juices into a small sauce- Steaks or Fillets
VARIATION pan. Rapidly boil them down until
syrupy. Then, while still boiling, When steaks are more than ¾ inch
Broiled Fish Steaks whisk in a piece of the butter, adding thick, use the broil-roast method so
au Nature/ a new piece (with your fingers for that the fish will cook evenly-that
quick action) as each has been almost is, brown the top nicely under the
To serve as is, arrange the fish on a incorporated. As soon as the last broiler and finish by baking at 3 7 5°F
hot platter or plates, spoon on the piece has been almost absorbed, re- in the upper third level of the oven,
cooking juices; decorate with lemon move the pan from the heat. Taste, basting occasionally with the juices in
wedges and parsley sprigs. season if necessary, blend in the op- the dish.
*Ahead-of-time note. You can brown

the top, set the fish aside, and finish
cooking somewhat later.
Broiled fish steak au nature!

BRAISING : OVEN BAKING SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: VARIATION

A lightly oiled flameproof baking dish
When there is no need for browning just large enough to hold the fish com- Fish Steaks
the top, braising fish steaks and fillets fortably in one layer; a bulb baster Baked with Onions
in wine and other flavorings is a
simple and savory method. (Baking Preparing the fish. Remove any skin Any fish, lean or fat, does well baked
and braising are interchangeable and bones from the fish, brush in a cloak of wine and onions, and
terms for me in this case, but brais- lightly with melted butter or oil, and this is especially recommended for
ing suggests a certain sophistication dust with salt and pepper. Arrange swordfish, and mako and thresher
of treatment.) the fish in the dish; add the bay leaf, shark steaks. Start by sauteing 4 cups
and pour the liquids around the fish. of sliced onions in butter and oil until
If you are not cooking it immedi- tender and translucent; season nicely,
ately, cover and refrigerate. Preheat adding a little oregano or thyme, and
~◄ MASTER RECIPE the oven to 350°F before proceeding. set aside. Then season the fish steaks,
dredge in flour, and brown in the
Fish Steaks Braised in Wine Baking-about 20 minutes at 350°F. same pan for a minute or two on each
with Herbal Fresh Tomato Bring just to the simmer on top of side. Arrange the fish in a baking
Sauce the stove, then place uncovered in the dish, cover with the onions, and
middle level of the preheated oven. strew on a handful of fresh white
This is especially recommended for Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, basting bread crumbs mixed with chopped
lean fish of the cod and pollack type. _ the fish 2 or 3 times with the cooking parsley. Pour 2/3 cup of dry white
liquid. The fish is done when just wine around the fish and bake about
For 6 servings springy to the touch-cut into it if 25 minutes, basting occasionally, un-
you are not sure. Remove the fish to a til the top has browned lightly.
2 pounds fish steaks or fillets 1 ½ to 2
hot platter, cover, and keep warm the
inches thick, such as cod, scrod,
few minutes required for making the
striped bass, cusk, eastern or
sauce .
Alaskan halibut, and ocean
FISH STEAKS OR FILLETS
pollack
The sauce. Set the dish over moder- BRAISED IN WINE AND
1 to 2 Tbs melted butter or peanut
ately high heat, add the minced shal- AROMATIC VEGETABLES
oil
lots or scallions, and boil down
rapidly until the liquid is almost syr- Salmon is heavenly done this way, as
1 imported bay leaf
upy. Fold in the tomatoes and boil a are thick steaks or fillets of such fish
1 cup dry white French vermouth
few moments more, until lightly as cod, pollack, whitefish, weakfish,
1 cup fish stock or a light chicken
thickened. Correct seasoning. Re- halibut, and monkfish. For dieters,
broth
move from heat, and fold in the op- serve your fish just as is, and offer a
2 Tbs minced shallots or scallions
tional butter. Spoon the sauce over sumptuous sauce on the side for those
1 ½ cups diced fresh tomato pulp
the fish, and serve. lucky ones who are fashionably thin .
(tomatoes peeled, seeded, juiced,
and diced, page 357), or half fresh
tomatoes and half canned Italian
plum tomatoes
3 or more Tbs butter, optional
~◄ MASTER RECIPE
Braised Whole Fillet of

Salmon in Wine and
Aromatic Vegetables
For 6 to 8 servings
1 each large carrot and onion cut

into neat ¼-inch dice
2 or 3 tender celery stalks, neatly
diced
2 Tbs unsalted butter
pepper, and dried tarragon
A 2-pound skinless fillet of salmon
about ½ inch thick
About 1½ cups dry white French
vermouth

A no-stick f rying pan fo r the diced vege- Preparing the fish. Go over the salmon the dish, basting several times again
tables; tweezers or pliers to remove carefully with your fingers to detect until the flesh feels lightly springy to
bones; a lightly buttered baking dish that any little bones; pull them out with the touch.
will just hold the fish comfortably ( or tweezers or pliers. Score the skin side
an ov enproof baking and serving plat- of the fish. D ust with salt and pep- Remove from the oven, and, holding
ter, or, lacking either, cut the fish in per, and place best side up in the the fish in place with a pot cover,
half crossw ise, and reassemble it af ter baking dish. drain the cooking juices into a sauce-
cooking-the vegetables will mask the pan. Slide the fish onto a hot platter;·
surgery); buttered wax paper to cover Assembling. Spread the cooked diced cover and keep warm while making
fis~ vegetables over the fish, and pour ½ the sauce.
inch of vermouth around it. Cover
The aromatic vegetables. Cook the the fish with the wax paper, buttered
diced vegetables slowly in the butter side down. VARIATIONS
until quite tender but not browned-
about 10 minutes. Season lightly with *Ahead-of-time note: May be as-
salt, pepper, and a big pinch of dried Au Nature/: Braised Salmon
sembled an hour or more ahead to
tarragon . Served in Its Own Juices
this point; cover and refrigerate.
Rapidly boil down the cooking juices
B aking-12 to 15 minutes at 3 0° F.
in the saucepan until almost syrupy.
Preheat the oven to 3 5 0°F. Se the
Pour them over the fish and vege-
fish in the lower middle level, and,
tables, and serve.
when beginning to bubble lig tly,
baste the surface with the liquid in
Braised Salmon in Aromatic tender mousse of scallops. Then, over both fish and vegetables. Cover
White Butter Sauce after braising it, you coat it with a with buttered wax paper cut to fit the
little hollandaise and glaze it under platter.
The usual and lovely butter sauce of the broiler. This chic presentation is a
modern cookery can be as rich and steal from the Haeberlin brothers, at Baking-20 to 25 minutes at 350°F.
buttery as you wish-from 3 or 4 whose three-star restaurant at Illhau- Preheat the oven to 3 5 0°F. Just be-
tablespoons to half a pound. Using sern in Alsace I first had it years ago. fore baking, pour enough of the ver-
the preceding boiled-down juices as a Some years later I tried out my vermouth around the fish to come almost
base, proceed to beat in the butter as sion on our students at the Robert 1/s inch up its sides . Replace the wax
in the lemon-butter sauce for the Mondavi cooking classes in the Napa paper, and bake in the lower third
broiled fish on page 83. Valley. More recently Marian Mor- level of the preheated oven. The fish
ash and I ( she was then executive chef is done when you begin to smell its
for the Straight Wharf Restaurant in enticing aroma; both fish and mousse-
Nantucket) worked it out for the res- line will feel lightly springy. Pour
Braised Salmon in Winey taurant; her customers greeted it with the cooking juices into a small stain-
Cream Sauce such enthusiasm that it remained on less pan and reserve for the sauce.
the menu the whole season . Cover the fish and keep it warm
A reasonable and equally delectable while making the hollandaise.
TIMING NOTE: You may prepare the fish
compromise is a light veloute sauce
for the oven several hours ahead; after Completing the sauce. (Preheat the
made with the cooking juices, then
baking, the dish and sauce base can wait broiler. ) Add any accumulated fish-
boiled down with cream, as follows.
½ hour or so. Once glaz ed, however, it cooking juices to the pan of reserved
Cook together 2 ½ Tbs butter and 3
should be served immediately . juices, set over high heat and rapidly
Tbs flour 2 minutes without coloring;
off heat whisk in the hot braising boil down to a syrup ; beat them into
Serving 8 to JO as a first course; 6 to 8 the hollandaise sauce. Fold in the
juices and 1 cup heavy cream. Boil
as a luncheon dish whipped cream.
slowly until reduced to 1½ cups; sea-
son carefully. (Full details for veloute Ingredients for the master recipe
sauce are on page 272.) Either serve Braised Whole Fillet of Salmon Finishing the dish. Spread the sauce
the fish cloaked in its vegetables and (page 85) generously over the fish . Set the plat-
accompany with the sauce, or fold the For the mousseline of scallops- ter 2 inches from the hot broiler ele-
vegetables into the sauce and spoon ingredients for the mousse of ment, and, watching carefully, let the
over the fish. trout with scallops (page 126; you top brown lightly for a minute or so.
may substitute sole for trout) Serve at once.
1 ¼ to 1½ cups hollandaise sauce
(see Special Note next page) Variation: Indiv idual Servings. For
Fillet of Salmon ½ cup heavy cream, whipped ease of serving at the table, rather
than baking the fillet whole cut the
Braised with a M ousseline
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: raw salmon into portions before ar-
of Scallops
A lightly buttered ov enproof baking and ranging on the platter, and build
serving platter for braising the salmon them individually. Or, for individual
To take the master recipe a step far-
servings, bake each portion in a sepa-
ther, you arrange it under its cloak of
Assembling for baking. Arrange the rate dish.
aromatic vegetables and top it with a
salmon on the baking platter, and
spread the cooked aromatic vegetables
over the fish. Then spread the mousse
SPECIAL NOTE VARIATIONS
Hollandaise Sauce bottom of the pan between strokes. Additions

At once remove from heat and beat in
Certainly one of the great sauces of the remaining cold butter a table- You may add other flavors to the fin-
the Western world, hollandaise has spoon at a time to stop the cooking. ished hollandaise. In the preceding
nevertheless given over some of its braised salmon dish, where you
former popularity to the white butter Adding the butter. By driblets, beat in whisk in reduced fish-braising juices,
sauces. But when you want a superior the warm melted butter to make a you have officially produced a white
sauce that can cover an egg Benedict, thick sauce. Whisk in the seasonings, wine sauce, sauce vin blanc . The addi-
or one that can both cover and gra- adding a little more lemon juice if tion of whipped cream makes it a
tine under the broiler, as for our pre- you feel it is needed. sauce mousseline, and you have a sauce
ceding salmon dish, you want a mousseuse if, instead of whipped
hollandaise. *Ahead-of-time note: You can keep cream, you fold in beaten egg
hollandaise for a certain amount of whites-a lighter hollandaise to serve
For about 1 cup time over the faint heat of a pilot with souffies or vegetables. It's useful
light, or near a stove-top burner. If it to know the official names since you
3 egg yolks
is kept too warm the egg yolks will may run into them on traditional res-
1½ Tbs freshly squeezed lemon
start to scramble and force the butter taurant menus.
juice, plus more later as needed
out of suspension-the sauce will
4 Tbs cold unsalted butter, half at
turn, in other words. However, since
first and half later
egg yolks are a fine breeding ground
5 ounces (1 ¼ sticks) melted unsalted VARIATION
for bacteria, the safest advance plan
butter
is to cook the sauce base, and chill it. Bearnaise Sauce
Just before serving, whisk over very
For steaks, broiled fish , poached eggs
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: low heat or hot water to loosen it, and
A 6-cup fairly heavy-bottomed stainless then beat in the hot melted butter.
Bearnaise is hollandaise with a pro-
saucepan and a wire whisk; a pan and nounced flavor of vinegar, shallots,
a small ladle for the melted butter First Aid for Turned Sauce. If your
tarragon, and pepper. It goes beauti-
sauce refuses to thicken or thins out
fully with tenderloin steaks, you
Preliminaries. Vigorously whisk the after you've made it, or looks cur-
could serve it with the crumbed
egg yolks in the saucepan for a good dled, here's how to fix it-unless the
salmon on page I 00 , and it gives in-
minute or so, until they are thick and eggs have actually scrambled because
terest to mild foods like poached
pale yellow, then whisk in the lemon of overheating. eggs. For about I cup of sauce, boil
juice. Add 2 of the tablespoons of down ¼ cup each of good wine vine-
cold butter, which while melting Whisk up the sauce and dip out a
gar and dry white vermouth with I
slowly will act as a kind of anti- tablespoon into a mixing bowl.
tablespoon of minced shallots, ½ tea-
curdling insurance. Whisk it with a tablespoon of lemon
spoon of dried tarragon, and ¼ tea-
juice for a moment until it creams
spoon each of salt and freshly ground
The egg-yolk sauce base. Set the pan and thickens; gradually whisk in little
pepper. When reduced to about 2
over low heat, whisking at a moder- dribbles of the sauce, letting each ad- tablespoons, strain into another
ate pace and watching carefully until dition cream and thicken before add- saucepan . Substitute this fragrant es-
in a minute or more the egg yolks mg more. sence for the lemon juice in the hol-
have thickened and you can see the landaise recipe and proceed with the
egg yolks and butter, but add only I
to 1 ¼ sticks of butter in all-to
make an authoritative sauce.
FISH FILLETS POACHED Sauces. Amo;1g the variations here,

IN WINE SPECIAL N OTE
you have examples of the principal
sauce categories: pan juices, au
T
Fish fillets to poa c h in white naturel, a simple reduction of the
he French cuisine introduced wine. L.ean fish fillets 1/4- to 3/g inch cooking liquids; whi te butter sauce,
it, I do believe, that lovely thick are called for here. Imported much in vogue these days, delectable,
method of laying fillets of sole in a sole , turbot, and J ohn Dory (St. easy indeed to make, but butter is
buttered baking dish with shallots Peter fish) are born for poaching but butter; and the veloute, the
and wine, poaching them gently in are expensive indeed, not only traditional, light, flour-based white-
the oven, then making a perfectly because they are imported but wine fish sauce that is excellent when
simple or madly elaborate sauce with because of their delicate flavor an d properly made, and especially useful
the subtly flavor~d cooking juices. In desirable texture-their skinless and for dishes assembled in advance.
any case the French shorthand recipe boneless fill ets hold together perfectly
guide Le Repertoire de la Cuisine lists when moved from baking dish to *Ahead-of-time note: T he gratines at
dozens and dozens of variations on platter. Among the alternatives are the end of this section are designed
sole in white wine, with such fanciful gray sole, petrale sole, and trout. for ahead-of-time preparation; how-
titles as Filets de sole Sarah Bern- Silver hake (whiting) and baby ever, you can adapt the technique to
hardt, or George Sand, or Dieppoise , halibut are also desirable but hard to any of the following ideas.
or Belles de Nuit. The names vary find in our retail markets. Catfish
with the sauce-butter sauce, cream fillets, orange roughy, and tilapia are
sauce, veloute-and with the garni- other choices. Fish with less solid
ture, from minced fresh herbs, to textures, such as fl ounder and red ~◄ MASTER RECIPE
chopped tomato, medallions of lob- snapper, and sliced fillets of cod,
ster, spinach leaves, grated cheese, hake, and halibut tend to break apart Fillets of Sole Poached in
oysters, mushrooms, mussels, and when moved; they do best when White Wine
mousses. Fish and sauces are inter- cooked and served in the same dish.
changeable in almost all cases. Take Here is the master poaching method,
the first variation, "au naturel ," as an Just for convenience I shall call which is the base for all the following
example. Here the pan juices are a ever ything sole in the following variations-and countless others.
simple reduction, but when you whip recipes-but do experiment wi th fish
in butter and herbs or spread other than those li sted here. You may For 6 servings
chopped tomatoes or mushrooms find perfection in the daily catch.
2 pounds skinless and boneless sole
over the fish, you have a whole new
fillets ( or other suggestions from
recipe. Thus I shall go into the fun-
the Special Note on this page)
damentals with enough sauce and Amounts. In all of the following Salt and freshly ground white pepper
garniture suggestions to get you recipes 1 pound of skinless and 2 Tbs finely minced shallots or
started on later frills of your own . boneless fi sh is considered sufficient scallions
for 3 normal servings; 2 fillets 8 to 9 1 cup liquid: 213 cup dry white
inches long , 2 inches wide, and ¼ French vermouth or full-bodied
inch thick make a si ngle serving. It dry white wine mixed with 1/3 cup
is wise to buy by eye, however, and fish stock, chicken broth, or
in recipes of this type remember that water, plus more if needed
utterly exact measurements are not Freshly squeezed lemon juice
called for-it is the final result that Minced fresh parsley
counts.
JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK FIN FISH & SHELLFI SH 89
I. Large fish fillets folded in half
2. Covering fish with buttered wax paper before Sole with white butter sauce and herbs
poaching
Preparing the fish. (Preheat the oven *Ahead-of-time note: Refrigerate if

to 3 5 0°F in time for the oven poach- you are not proceeding almost
ing, last step.) Pat the fish dry in pa- immediately.
per towels; go over it carefully with
your fingers to remove any remaining Oven poaching-5 to 7 minutes at
bones. Score the skin sides ( page 350°F. Set the dish over moderate
81 ). Season lightly with salt and heat just until the liquid starts to
pepper. bubble, then place in the lower third
level of the preheated oven, where it
Assembling the dish. Sprinkle half the should start to bubble slowly in a min-
3. Draining out the poaching liquid
shallots in the bottom of the buttered ute or so. The fish is done when its
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: baking dish and lay in the fish, skin translucent flesh has turned to opaque,
A lightly buttered flameproof baking- side down and with the pieces slightly or milky white-folded fillets will
serving dish that will just hold the fish overlapping. If the fillets are very take a few minutes more. (See also the
in one slightly overlapping layer- large, fold them in half, as in the il- "When is it done?" notes on page 82.)
about 9 by 12 inches ( or a 12-inch lustration, step 1. Sprinkle the re-
stainless frying pan); a sheet of buttered maining shallots over the top of the Out of the oven. Remove from the
wax paper cut to Ju into the dish; a flat fish. Pour in enough liquid to come oven. Set the cover over the wax pa-
pot cover to hold the fish in place while two thirds of the way up the fillets, per and drain the cooking juices into
draining out cooking juices; an 8-cup and lay over them the wax paper, the saucepan, step 3. Rapidly boil
stainless saucepan to hold them buttered side down, step 2. down the juices until almost syrupy;
whisk in droplets of lemon juice and
a sprinkling of minced fresh parsley.
Spoon the juices over the fish.
VARIATION
Sole with White Butter Sauce
SPECIAL NOTE
and Fresh Herbs
Sole en Piperade
Piperade Sauced with the pan juices
The following recipes are for more
Sliced red and green peppers in garlic Sole with Sliced Peppers, Onions, and
Garlic dressy occasions, starting with an
and olive oil
easy, delicious, and nicely calorific
This colorful vegetable saute, of This is a light and colorful dish with butter sauce, the same one used for
Basque origin, is a wonderfully use- lots of good flavor that may be served the broiled fish steaks with lemon
ful condiment, either hot or cold. either hot with rice or pasta, or cold butter sauce on page 83. Boil the
Use it on open-faced omelettes, for with a salad. cooking liquid down to a syrup, add-
ing droplets of lemon juice. Piece by
instance, or pizzas, and for various
For 6 servings piece, and still boiling slowly, beat in
simmerings such as fillets of fish or
breast of chicken. 4 to 8 tablespoons of butter. Whisk
Ingredients for the preceding master in 2 tablespoons of minced fresh
recipe for 2 pounds of fish fillets herbs such as parsley and chives,
For about 1 ½ cups poached in white wine chervil, or tarragon, and spoon over
1 medium onion, sliced 1 cup piperade (cooked sliced red the fish for serving, see illustration.
2 Tbs olive oil and green peppers with garlic; see
1 medium green bell pepper, sliced Special Note at left)
1 medium red bell pepper, sliced - 2 to 3 Tbs tomato sauce or canned
1 large clove of garlic, pureed tomato puree
Pinch of mixed dried herbs Assembling. (Preheat the oven to
350°F in time for oven poaching.)
The piperade. Saute the onion slowly Prepare the fish and arrange it in the
5 minutes in a frying pan with the baking dish as directed in the master
oil. When tender and translucent, recipe. Scrape the piperade over the
add the peppers along with the fish, and pour in the liquid. Cover
garlic, tossing with a sprinkling of with the wax paper.
salt, pepper, and herbs. Saute uncov-
ered, tossing several times, for 2 to 3 Oven poaching. Bring to the simmer
minutes, until the peppers are nearly on top of the stove, and poach 6 to 8
tender. minutes in the preheated oven as
directed.
*Ahead-of-time note: May be refriger-
ated 2 to 3 days; may be frozen. Sauce and serving. Drain the cooking
juices into a stainless pan and boil
down rapidly with the tomato until
lightly thickened. Correct seasoning,
spoon over the fish, and serve.
To serve cold. Separate the fish fillets

from each other while still warm;
otherwise they will-stick together as
they chill.
JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK FIN FISH & SHELLF ISH 91
Sole Duglere
OTH E R VA RIATIO NS ON THE MASTER

OVEN- POACHING M E THOD
Fillets of Sole Dug/ere

Sole poached with wine and tomatoes
with a tomato-butter sauce
Here, and in the next recipe with

mushrooms, the garniture is poached
right on the fish, giving it additional
flavor. Prepare the fish for the oven
Sole Bonne Femme garnished with fluted mushrooms
as described in the master recipe, and
spread 2 ½ cups of lightly seasoned
indeed. Simmer 2 cups of sliced
fresh tomato pulp (tomatoes peeled ,
mushrooms in seasonings and a little
seeded, juiced, diced ; page 3 57) over
butter and lemon juice ( page 3 12),
the fillets. Poach and drain the fish as
and sandwich them between the sole
described, boil down the liquid to 2
fillets.
tablespoons, and whisk in from 2 to
8 tablespoons of butter, as for the
Poach them in the oven, as for the
preceding butter sauce. Rearrange
master recipe, but for 10 to 12 min-
the fish and tomatoes nicely in the
utes; drain their juices into a sauce-
dish or on hot plates , spoon the sauce
pan. Rapidly boil down the juices
over, and serve . Assembling the dish
over high heat until reduced to a
light syrup, stir in the cream, and
continue boiling a moment or two
Sole Bonne Femme
Sole Poached in White Wine and
more, until the sauce coats a spoon
M ushrooms lightly. Taste carefully, addi ng more
True Cream Sauce salt, freshly ground pepper, drops of
lemon juice, and a tablespoon or so of
Bonne femme is another classic com- fresh minced tarragon. Spoon the
bination, the "good wife's" special fil- sauce over the fish and decorate, if
lets of sole sandwiched between a you wish, with cooked fluted mush-
layer of sliced mushrooms. This rec- rooms ( page 3 13 ).
ipe, r ather than using a butter sauce,
calls for the fish-poaching juices to be
reduced with heavy cream-delicious
F old ing fillets over mousse stuffing
Mousse-Stuffed Fillets of
Sole
Gratineed with mushrooms in
a light veloute sauce
Another recipe with mushrooms, but

this time the fillets are folded over a
fish mousse and surrounded with
sliced mushrooms. A recipe like this
used to be considered very haute cui-
sine because a mousse took hours to
make. Now, with a food processor,
it's a matter of minutes-see the dis-
cussion on fish mousses, page 123.
To accompany it, we have the tradi-
tional veloute sauce, useful indeed for
dishes that are assembled in advance
and then reheated.
For 6 servings
Ingredients for 2 pounds fish fillets

poached in white wine (page 88)
Mousse-Stuffed Fillets of Sole gratineed with mu shrooms
1½ cups fish mousse, using 1 cup
pureed fish, 1 egg white, and 1/3
cup heavy cream (page 124)
TWO EXAMPLES THAT do not overcook them, and be aware 2½ cups(½ pound) sliced fresh
CAN BE COOKED AHEAD that the fish exudes a certain quantity mushrooms
AND REHEATED of juice as it reheats, and that juice
thins out the sauce. If cooking a dish For about I½ cups of veloute sauce
So often you want a dish that can be ahead, therefore, I think it best to 1½ Tbs butter
cooked ahead and reheated, which complete fish and sauce separately, 2 Tbs flour
works out well for fish fillets-with and to combine them for the final ½ to % cup heavy cream
two problems to be avoided. Exercise phase just before serving-then you
3 Tbs grated Swiss cheese
great care in the reheating that you have control.
Assembling. Trim, score, and flatten *Ahead-of-time note: Poach the fish.
the fish fillets for cooking as directed. Make the sauce, then clean off the
sides of the saucepan and press a
Lay them skin side up, divide the fish sheet of plastic wrap onto the surface
mousse into 6 portions, spreading to prevent a skin from forming.
one on the bottom length of each fil- Cover and chill sauce and fish.
let. Fold in half to enclose the filling, Shortly before serving, cover the fish
see illustration. Sprinkle half the with its wax paper and warm in a
shallots and half the sliced mush- 350°F oven, being very careful not
rooms in the bottom of the buttered to overcook it. Reheat the sauce.
Sauce going over poached fill ets on a bed of braised
baking dish. Lay the folded fillets Drain the fish again, spoon the sauce spinach
over them; spread on the remaining over, and gratine as described.
-shallots and mushrooms. Pour but using the proportions given here.
around the fish enough liquid to Whisk half the cheese into the sauce,
reach halfway up; cover with the but- then stir 1/3 cup of the sauce into the
tered wax paper. Poach in a 3 5 0°F Fillets of Sole Florentine warm spinach.
oven as directed in the master recipe, Fillets of sole gratineed on a bed of
but for 10 to 12 minutes. spinach
Mornay sauce-veloute with cheese
Assembling. Spread the spinach in the
buttered baking dish, and arrange the
Sauce and.final touches. Meanwhile, in poached fillets on top. (Never mind
Fish and fresh spinach make a happy
a 2-quart stainless saucepan, make a if they break; the sauce will cover
combination, and the nicely flavo~ed
roux: cook the butter and flour to- all.) Spoon the remaining sauce over
light cheese sauce here gives it special
gether until they foam and froth for the fish, see illustration. Sprinkle on
attraction.
2 minutes without coloring more the remaining cheese.
than a buttery yellow. Set aside.
For 6 servings
When the fish is done, drain the Gratineing. Set the dish so its surface
cooking juices into another stainless 3 packages or bunches of fresh is 2 inches from a hot broiler element
saucepan and rapidly boil them down spinach, blanched, chopped, for 2 to 3 minutes, just until the
to 1 cup; whisk the hot juices into the squeezed dry, and warmed in sauce is bubbling hot and lightly
roux. Beat in ½ cup of the cream, butter (page 278) browned on top.
and bring to the boil. Simmer, stir- Ingredients for 2 pounds of fish fillets
ring, for 2 minutes to make a sauce poached in white wine (master *Ahead-of-time note: Here it seems
that will coat the spoon lightly- recipe, page 88) best to cook spinach, sauce, and fish
whisking in more cream if necessary. The sauce: double the amount in the separately, and to combine for reheat-
Taste very carefully and correct preceding recipe (3 Tbs butter, ¼ ing as suggested in the preceding
seasonmg. cup flour, 2 cups hot liquid-fish recipe.
poaching juices plus 1/3 to ½ cup
Gratineing. Drain any accumulated milk and/or cream)
fish juices into the sauce (boil down ½ to 213 cup grated Swiss cheese
rapidly if the sauce thins out), and (half for the topping)
spoon the sauce over the fish.
Sprinkle on the grated cheese, set Preliminaries. Cook the spinach as di-
under a hot broiler for a moment to rected. Poach the fish fillets, and after
brown the top of the sauce lightly, draining out the cooking liquid,
and serve . gently separate the fillets to prevent
their sticking together as they cool.
The sauce. Make the veloute sauce as

described in the preceding recipe,
WHOLE FISH Half a fish. If you do not have or ~◄ MASTER RECIPE

cannot borrow a large enough pan to
hold a whole fish, you can cut it in Whole Salmon Braised
S omeone may offer you a freshly

caught whole large fish, like a
salmon or a striped bass. Don't
half, cook it in two pans, and
reassemble it for serving. Or, in the
case of large salmon, you may wish to
in Wine
Or a large piece of salmon
panic-take it! You can braise or buy just a center cut, or the tail end. For 10 to 12 servings
roast almost any kind of a whole fish
2 cups thinly sliced onions
as long as it will fit into your pot or
1 cup thinly sliced carrots
your oven-that goes for mackerel,
1 cup thinly sliced celery stalks
trout, cod, weakfish, and bluefish as Heads on. The well-dressed fish
well as bass and salmon. We'll start when presented whole should always
A 5- to 6-pound salmon, scaled and
with braising-actually steaming- look like a whole fish, meaning that it
eviscerated (or a tail or center-cut
with an inch or so of aromatic liquid appears at the table with its head in
section)
in the bottom of a fish poacher or place.
Tasteless salad oil
covered roaster. Then we'll move on
to oven-roasted fish using a small fish
A medium herb bouquet with
as an example, but a large fish will
tarragon instead of thyme, page
roast the same way. Timing. Since a braised or steamed
336
fish may wait a considerable time
4 cups dry white wine or 3 cups dry
before serving, give yourself ample
white French vermouth
leeway-a partially raw, supposedly
4 or more cups fresh fish stock or
LARGE WHOLE FISH braised fish is a failure.
diluted chicken broth
BRAISED IN WINE 1 cup heavy cream
4 Tbs unsalted butter, optional
Braising is far easier to do than SPECIAL N OTE Minced fresh green herbs, such as a
poaching, where the whole fish must mixture of parsley and tarragon
be submerged in simmering water; in Equipment for Poaching a
addition, the aromatic braising juices Whole Fish SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
become the basis for a splendid A large piece of washed cheesecloth in
sauce . The fish poacher at left has a remov- which to wrap the fish; a large covered
able perforated rack, which makes it roaster or fish poacher with rack; a bulb
easy to lift up the fish and slide it baster; a serving platter or tray of suffi-
onto a platter. But you can use a large cient size
Fish to use. The following recipe is turkey roaster, set a rack in the bot-
for salmon, but bass, cod, or other tom, and curve the fish to fit. Preliminaries. Saute the vegetables
large fish will do as well. slowly in the butter for 10 minutes or
so, until tender but not browned.
Meanwhile, wash and dry the fish,
brush the outside with oil, and
Frozen fish . Notes on frozen fish sprinkle ½ teaspoon of salt and sev-
and defrosting are on page 8 0. eral grinds of pepper inside the cav-
ity. Oil the rack. Lay the cheesecloth
I . This weird object is the poached fish, ready for

removal.
2. Skinning and trimming the fish Fully dressed poached fi sh ready fo r serving
on your work surface. Center the Cover the pan tightly (if necessary *Ahead-of-time note: You may keep
rack upon it, then place the oiled fish spread heavy foil over the top, then the fish warm and prepare the sauce,
on the rack. Wrap the cheesecloth set on the cover and several weights as follows, an hour before serving.
around both the rack and the fish and of some sort for a snug fit). Either
place in the pan. braise in the lower level of the pre- Keeping the fish warm. Brush any veg-
heated 350°F oven, or continue on etables off the cheesecloth, lift the fish
Sprinkle over it ½ teaspoon of salt. top of the stove; regulate heat so liq- on its rack out of the pan using the
Season the cooked vegetables lightly uid simmers very slowly throughout cloth to help you. Strain the braising
with salt and pepper and strew them the cooking-too strong heat will liquid into a large s~ucepan, pressing
around the fish along with the herb cause the skin to burst and the flesh to the juices out of the vegetables. Re-
packet. Pour in the wine and enough flake. Baste several times during turn the cheesecloth-wrapped fish to
stock, plus water if needed, to a cooking with the liquid in the pan. the pan, cover it, and set it over a
depth of 1 inch. kettle of hot but not simmering water
When is it done? The fish is done at a to keep warm-it should stay warm
*Ahead-of-time note: If you are not meat-thermometer reading of around but must not continue to cook.
ready to proceed, cover and refriger- 15 0°F, and when there is no raw red
ate. If you are using the oven, pre- color near the bone when you unfold The sauce. Bring the braising liquid
heat it to 350°F before proceeding. the cheesecloth and peer into the cav- to the rapid boil over high heat , and
ity. When you cut into the flesh from let it reduce to about 1 cup of almost
Braising-about 45 minutes, but the the edge of the back the fin ends pull syrupy liquid. Pour in the heavy
fish can wait an hour before being out easily. Do not overcook-the fish cream and boil a moment or two
served. Set the pan on top of the stove should remain intact and the flesh more until lightly thickened. Set
over moderately high heat and bring JUICy.
the liquid barely to the simmer.
Whole Salmon Braised in Wine (continued) coating of sauce over the fish; deco- serving portions from each side. (If
rate with whatever you have chosen . the fish has been cooked upright, as
aside. Bring to the simmer just be- P our the rest of the sauce into a in a roaster, the main bone will, of
fore serving ; off heat , swish in the warm bowl , and bring the dinner to course, be vertical and the fillets wi ll
optional butter a tablespoon at a ti me, the table. be on the right and left sides of the
and the herbs. bone.) Then, either at the table or in
To serve a whole fish. The mai n bone the kitchen, lift up the bone fro m the
S ervi·ng . Remove the fi sh from its of a salmon-shaped fish, lying flat for tail end and remove it, to expose the
pan, step 1, unfold the cheesecloth , serving, runs horizontally, with two bottom fillet for serving.
and slide th e fish onto the serv ing fillets on either side of the main bone
platter. Rapidly peel the skin off the on top, and two underneath the bone. Suggested accompaniments. There's
top of the fish , scr ape off and di scard Using a large serving fork and a nothing wrong with the traditional
any brownish sections of flesh , and servi ng spatula, cut straight down the small boiled or steamed potatoes and
pull the remains of fin s out of the central length of the top fillet until fresh green peas, and, for wine, a
ridge of the back , step 2 . Spoon a you reach the main bone; lift off mellow white Burgundy or
chardonnay.
SPECIAL NO TE
How to Serve and Eat a main bone is running horizontally, R emoving the bones. Gently lift up the
Whole Trout-Shaped Fish branching out at the chest to encircle central bone from the tail end, fork-
the visceral cavity. Starting at the ing off the flesh underneath it as you
To be able to serve and to eat a whole back of the neck end, find the upper go, step 3. You will note some feath-
fish, especially a trout, is part of civi- side of the bone with your knife; ery side bones branching out into the
lized dining. This applies particu- slide it across the bone from back chest meat; these usually pull out
larly to the young, who should take side to belly side, then down to the with the main bone. Remove any left
to it as soon as they can handle knife lower third of the fish and to the tail, in the flesh, along with any small
and fork; this is a fine way for them thus freeing the flesh of the top fillet bones on the belly section of each fil-
to begin taking pride in themselves from the bone, step 2. let and along the back in the fin area.
and their abilities.
Opening up the trout. Starting at the Serving. The fish is now ready to
Loosening flesh from bone . Set the fish back or right side, flip the top fillet serve. Sprinkle the flesh lightly with
so its tail faces you, and its back is to of flesh off the bone to the right, or salt and freshly ground pepper, and
your right. Starting at the neck on belly side-if it won't come off spoon on a little melted butter, step
the right side, slit through the skin of smartly in a piece , do it as neatly as 4, sauce, and/or lemon juice. The
the back down to the tail, step I . The you can in sections. crisp skin makes fine eating, too.
I. Slitting down backbone 2. Flipping over top fillet 3. Removing central bone 4. Spooning on melted butter
½ cup flour on a sheet of wax paper, Serving. Remove from the oven, and
for dredging decorate with parsley sprigs-tuck-
½ cup, more or less, clarified butter ing a little into the eye sockets and
(page 139), melted the cavity. Serve as soon as possible,
Parsley sprigs passing lemon and melted butter or
Lemon wedges butter sauce separately.
Melted butter, or lemon-butter sauce
(page 83)
VA RIATION
O ven roasted large trout An ovenproof baking and serving plat-
ter is useful
Oven Roasting Large Fish like
WHOLE FISH, OVEN Bass and Salmon
ROASTED Preparing the fish. Leave the heads on
the trout. Remove the gills and vis- Roast larger fish in exactly the same
cera; with shears, cut off the fins close way, except they need no dredging in
Clean and scale your fish, tuck a little
to the body, and trim off a bit from flour. A 3-pound fish will take about
seasoning in its cavity, brush it with
the tails. Sprinkle a little salt and 45 minutes, and, again, you can tell
butter or oil, and it's ready for roast-
pepper inside each cavity. it is almost done when you smell it
ing. It couldn't be a simpler way to
cooking, when juices just begin to
cook a whole fish, and it could hardly
*Ahead-of-time note: Cover and re- appear in the pan, and when the back
be more delicious, the crisp skin
frigerate if you are not proceeding fins pull out fairly easily.
holding in all its natural juices.
shortly.
Roasting-15 to 20 minutes at 450°F. SPECIAL NOTE

~◄ MASTER RECIPE Preheat the oven to 450°F. Just be-
fore roasting, season the fish cavities Approximate Timings for Various Sizes
Whole Roasted Fish: lightly with salt and pepper, roll the of Salmon-Shaped Fish. Timing varies
Trout Meuniere fish in the flour and shake off excess. with the thickness of the fish. The
Brush melted clarified ·butter over the Canadian formula of 10 minutes of
Large or small, whole fish are all roasting platter or pan, lay the fish in cooking per inch of thickness is at
roasted the same way, and, rather place, and spoon over them a dribble least a guide, but the various indica-
than a large salmon , we'll use a good- of the butter. Set in the upper middle tions noted in the preceding recipe
size trout in the I-pound category. level of the preheated oven. In 8 are the sure signs.
minutes rapidly baste again with a
MANUFACTURING NOTE : The trout, spoonful or 2 of butter.
because of its rather delicate skin, is Pounds Total Minutes
dredged lightly in flour, which not only When is the fish done? When you be-
crisps its skin but keeps it intact as well gin to smell the buttery aroma of 2 to 4 20 to 25
as discouraging it from sticking to the cooking fish, and you notice that 4 to 6 25 to 3 0
roasting pan. Meuniere, by the way, juices are just beginning to appear in
6 to 8 3 5 to 45
means the miller's wife, referring per- the platter. Test by pulling a small
haps to her ever-floury hands. section of fin end out of the flesh at 8 to 10 45 to 60
the ridge of the back-it should 10 to 12 60 to 7 5
For 4 servings come fairly easily. Gently lift the
belly flaps and peer into the cavity-
2 trout (or other whole fish), about 1
there should be no bloody tinge way
pound each
inside at the backbone. Do not over-
cook-the flesh should remain juicy.
STOVE-TOP COOKERY about ¾ inch, while fillets 3/s inch ~◄ M ASTER RECIPE
thick are ideal. If too thick they tend

to overcook on the outside before Fillets of Sole Meuniere
they are done on the inside. Fillets of sole (or other fish) sauteed in
THE SAUTES butter
For 6 servings
A fresh fillet of sole, flounder,

or red snapper quickly sau-
teed in the best butter, served with a
SPECIAL N OTE
Some fish choices for sauteing.

Best examples are imported Dover
6 skinless and boneless sole or other
thin fish fillets (see the Special
Note on this page), all of a size, 4
sprinkling of lemon juice and pars- to 6 ounces each and 3/s inch thick
sole, gray sole, flounder, whiting,
ley-it's quick, easy, and fish at its Salt and freshly ground white pepper
and trout. Among other possibilities,
simple best. Of course you can elabo- ½ cup or so flour in a plate
although of a quite different taste and
rate, and add bread crumbs for a About 4 Tbs clarified butter (page
texture, are coho salmon, snapper,
crisp crusty exterior-crumbs help a 139)
and bluefish.
lot when you've a fish of no particular 3 Tbs minced fresh parsley
distinction. Pan frying is certainly 4 to 6 Tbs unsalted butter
the most direct way of cooking fish, 1 lemon, cut into wedges
and not only fillets but small fish,
too, as well as shrimp, scallops, and SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
lobster, each in its own special way. Dredging inf/,our. A light coating 2 heavy no-stick frying pans would be
of flour gently crisps the outside of useful, to hold all the fish at once; hot
the fish while helping it keep its shape plates or a hot platter; a wide plastic
as it browns in the pan . To dredge, spatula
FISH FILLETS SAUTEED spread ½ cup or more of flour in a
ME UN I ERE plate (I keep a stack of 9-inch alumi- Preparing the fish. Following the di-
num pie tins handy). The moment rections on page 8 1, dry the fish, re-
The fillets are scored on the skin before sauteing, drop in a seasoned move any bones, score, trim, and
side, seasoned with salt and pepper, fillet to coat one side with flour, turn flatten it. Lay it out on a sheet of wax
and just before sauteing they are it to coat the other, and shake off ex- paper.
lightly floured; then you pop them cess flour, leaving just a dusting. Do
into a frying pan of sizzling butter- only the number of fillets you are *Ahead-of-time note: If you are not
a minute or two on each side is all the about to saute. If you dredge more proceeding, slip a pastry sheet under
cooking they need. Here are a few than a minute or so in advance, the the fish, cover, and refrigerate.
tips before we begin. flour gets wet, lumpy, and gummy-
a doleful mess you certainly don't Sauteing. Dust the fillets lightly on
want on your fine fresh fish. each side with salt and pepper. The
moment before sauteing, rapidly
Fish to use. Real European Dover drop each into the flour to coat both
sole is the dream fish here: its texture sides, and shake off the excess. Set
is firm enough to hold yet delicate to Clarified butter. Clarified butter the frying pans or pan over high heat
the tooth, it has its own natural flavor, ( page 13 9) is by far the most and film with 1/16 inch of clarified
and its size is perfect for sauteing. satisfactory saute medium to my butter. When the butter is very hot
The only points against Dover sole are mind: it browns well , smells but not browning, rapidly lay in as
its expense and its scarcity in our re- wonderful as it cooks, and gives food many fillets as will fit easily, leaving a
tail markets. However, you may that unbeatable taste of butter. little space between each. Saute a
choose any fish with flesh that is not so Sauteing is obviously not for
flaky it will fall apart, and with fillets dieters-but stove-top poaching is,
that are not too thick. The limit is in the section following the sautes.
minute or two on one side, turn care- vor, like snapper and flounder. After inch frying pan. Dry them, and sea-
fully so as not to break the fillet, and sauteing the fish, as in the preceding son the cavities with salt and freshly
saute a minute or two on the other recipe, remove them to hot plates, ground pepper; just before sauteing,
side. The fish is done when just and brown the butter. Stir in 3 table- roll them in flour and shake off the
springy rather than squashy to the spoons of drained capers, heat a mo- excess. Saute them slowly in clarified
touch of your finger. I mmediately re- ment, and spoon over the fish. butter, counting about 5 minutes to a
move from the pan to warm plates or Decorate with parsley sprigs and side. They are done when you can
a platter. (Or, if you are sauteing in 2 serve. just separate flesh from bone at the
batches, keep the first warm for the ridge of the back, and there is no
few minutes necessary in a 200°F rosy red color near the bone when
oven.) you peer deep inside the cavities. To
Trout Meuniere serve, sprinkle with freshly chopped
Sauce and serving. Sprinkle each fillet and other whole small fish parsley and pour hot browned butter
with parsley. W ipe the frying pan over them to make the parsley sizzle.
clean, set over high heat, and add the Whole ½-pound trout are especially
fresh butter; heat until bubbling and suitable for pan frying in butter, but How to eat a whole trout with verve
pour over the fillets-the parsley will any other small fish will do very and confidence. See the illustrated di-
bubble up nicely. Decorate with well. Four should fit nicely into a 12- rections on page 9 6.
lemon wedges, and serve at once.
TROUBLESHOOTING:
SPECIAL NOTE For 6 pieces
The fish didn't brown. You may have
crowded too many fillets in the pan, 6 pieces of fish fillets, sweetbreads,
. To Coat Food in Bread
and there was no room for brown- or chicken breast halves
Crumbs Salt and freshly ground white pepper
ing-the fish steamed.
Paner a l'anglaise
1 cup fl.our in a plate
Or perhaps the butter was not hot 2 eggs, 2 tsp oil, and 1/s tsp salt
A coating of fresh white bread
enough. whisked together in a 9-inch pie
crumbs and a saute in real butter
• plate
make a delicious salmon steak or
Or your pan was too light in weight; 2 ½ cups moderately fine crumbs
chicken breast, or can give a bland
it did not conduct and spread the from fresh crustless homemade
fish or meat an interesting new di-
heat. type white bread with body, in a
mension. In addition, crumbing
9-inch pie plate
gives more solidity to fish otherwise
Or the pan might have been too big
too flimsy or foods otherwise too soft
for the heat source. A 12-inch fr ying Crumbing the food. Dry the food and
for a regular saute. This is also the
pan cannot heat up all over on an 8- season lightly on both sides with salt
coating for deep-fried foods. If you
inch burner. and pepper. One at a time, dip first
are unenthusiastic about breaded
in flour and shake off excess, then in
foods because you have always had
beaten egg and shake off excess. Set
them coated in stale or store-bought
in the crumbs, tossing them over the
VARIATIONS crumbs, and sauteed in butter substi-
food and patting them in place. Lay
tutes or fried in smelly old fat, do
each piece as done on a baking sheet
Sole Grenobloise give this classic method another
covered with wax paper; when all are
With brown butter and capers chance. Fresh crumbs and real butter
crumbed, cover and refrigerate 20
make all the difference!
minutes or longer, so the crumbs will
The sharp taste of capers in browned
set.
butter does wonders, especially for
fish of no distinctive individual fla-
I 00 JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK
VARIATION POACHING
SPECIAL NOTE
Fish Fillets or Thin Fish Drop half a dozen chunky 6-ounce
Tartar Sauce Steaks Sauteed in Fresh fillets of salmon or bass into a large
Bread Crumbs saucepan of simmering salted water,
For about 2 cups and in 8 minutes they are perfectly
This makes a marvelous salmon and· beautifully done. That's the best
1½ cups mayonnaise (page 363)
steak, coated in fresh crumbs and kind of diet food-plain fish with
2 to 3 Tbs capers
sauteed in clarified butter. Dry the plenty of flavor. It's also the best kind
1 smallish sour dill pickle
steaks, season lightly with salt and to show off butter sauces and hollan-
2 hard-boiled eggs
freshly ground pepper, and dip them daise, since you have nothing to in-
3 Tbs minced fresh herbs such as
first in flour, then beaten egg, then in trude on the marriage of fish and
parsley, tarragon, and chives
the fresh crumbs as described in the sauce. But it is not only salmon or
Seasonings: Salt, freshly ground
Special Note on page 99. After a 20- bass that takes to this easy system; it
wI h'1te pepper, lemon juice, Dijon-
minute chill to set the crumbs, saute is any fish fillet or steak, fat or lean ,
type prepared mustard
them slowly in clarified butter for a that has the inner strength to hold
minute or more on each side, to crisp together.
The mixture. Turn the mayonnaise
into a mixing bowl. Mince the capers the crumbs and brown them nicely.
The fish is done when lightly springy Top-quality frozen fillets and steaks
and pickle; twist them into a ball in
to the touch, in contrast to its squashy do well here too, taken directly from
the corner of a towel to squeeze out
raw state. Serve at once with lemon freezer to pan. In the few minutes
and discard their juices before adding
or the tartar sauce that also appears in needed to defrost in the poaching
them to the bowl. Halve the eggs;
a Special Note on this page. water, they are practically cooked
sieve the yolks and add to the bowl.
through.
Chop and add the egg whites. Add
the herbs, blend all ingredients to-
gether, and season carefully to taste. SPECIAL NOTE
*Ahead-of-time note: Refrigerate in a Fish for Stove-Top Poaching

covered bowl.
In addition to salmon, striped bass,
imported turbot, and John Dory, try
eastern and Alaskan halibut, monk-
fish, tilefish, and swordfish. Shark
steaks do well here, too-thresher
and mako-or try ahi, yellowfin, or
albacore. Even rather thin fillets may
be poached this way as long as they
are from the kind of fish that will
hold its shape-imported Dover
sole, as well as catfish, gray sole, pe-
trale sole, and trout.
JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK FIN FISH & SHELLFISH I OI
feels lightly springy. It should still be

juicy. Fish that is resistant and flaky
is overdone-too bad!
*Ahead-of-time note: If you are not

serving at once, remove the pan from
heat and the fish may remain in its
water 15 minutes or longer.
Serving. One at a time, remove the

fillets with the slotted spatula and roll
gently over the clean towel to blot up
excess moisture. To serve simply,
sprinkle on a little parsley, decorate
with lemon wedges, and pass melted
butter or hollandaise sauce ( page 87)
separately. Other suggestions follow.
Juli a holding a Dungeness crab and talki ng to fishermen in Puget Sound
~◄ MASTER RECIPE Cooking. Measure 3 inches of water

into the pan. Add 1½ teaspoons of
Stove-Top Poaching salt and 3 tablespoons wine vinegar
for each quart of water, and bring to
For 6 servings the boil. Slide in the fish. Bring to
Rolling poached fillets over a clean towel before ar-
just below the simmer, and maintain ranging on the platter
Salt
the water below the simmer through-
Wine vinegar
out the cooking-that is, the water is
6 fish steaks or fillets 6 to 8 ounces
shivering and almost but not quite
each, such as one of the examples
bubbling. (If the water actually boils
in the Special Note on the
the fish may break apart.)
preceding page or the shark
pictured at the opening of the .
Timing. Two to 3 minutes for sole or
chapter (skin and bones may be
trout, 3 to 4 for shark, 8 for salmon
removed from your fish either
or other fillets ½ inch thick.
before or after poaching)
SPECIA L EQUI PMENT SUGGESTED: When is it done? Fish is done when

A roomy wide saucepan, chicken fryer, the flesh has turned from translucent
or electric skillet; a wide slotted spat- to opaque and, rather than feeling
ula; a clean towel; warm plates or a squashy to the touch like raw fish, it
platter
VARIATIONS
Lemon-Butter Sauce
This lightly lemony, deliciously but-

tery sauce is particularly attractive
with salmon and trout, as well as
such elegant lean fish as sole, turbot,
and John Dory.
For about ¼ cup, serving 6
The grated rind of ½ lemon

2 Tbs freshly squeezed lemon juice
¼ cup fish stock or chicken broth
5 ounces (10 Tbs) unsalted butter,
cut into ¼-inch slices
Minced fresh green herbs such as
parsley, dill, and/or chives,
optional
Ingredients for Provenc;:al butter sauce

The flavor base. Bring the lemon
rind, lemon juice, and the stock or
broth to the boil in a 6-cup saucepan
Provenfal Butter Sauce
with ¼ teaspoon of salt and a few ·
With garlic, rosemary, and tomato
grinds of pepper. Boil slowly for sev-
eral minutes, until reduced to a
Recommended for robust fish like
syrup- you should have almost 3
shark steaks and red snapper, and
tablespoons.
such firm-fleshed but mild-flavored
characters as monkfish.
pleted in advance to this point.
For about 1 ¼ cups
Finishing the sauce . Shortly before Ingredients for the preceding lemon- Spooning Provenc;:al butter sauce over poached fish
fillets
serving, bring the flavor base to the butter sauce
boil over moderately high heat. 1 large clove of garlic, pureed
While boiling slowly, start whisking 1
/s tsp or so ground rosemary pepper and turn into a sieve, letting
in the butter piece by piece, adding a 2 ripe red tomatoes, peeled, seeded, the juices drain into the saucepan for
new piece as each previous one is al- juiced, and finely diced (about 213 several minutes. Remove the sieve,
most absorbed. Remove from heat as cup) and boil down the juices to a syrup .
soon as the last piece of butter is al- 2 to 3 Tbs fresh minced parsley Proceed with the recipe as described.
most incorporated, and whisk in the Fold the drained tomatoes into the
optional herbs. Correct seasoning and Add the garlic and rosemary to the completed sauce, and correct season-
serve at once, since the sauce ri sks saucepan of lemon flavor base in the ing . Spoon the sauce over the fish.
thinning out when you attempt to re- preceding recipe . Gently toss the to-
heat it. matoes with a sprinkling of salt and
*Ahead-of-time note: May be com- FEASTING ON THE

pleted hours in advance; cover and REMAINS
refrigerate.
The fish. Poach the fish as directed.

Coquilles of Poached
To serve hot. Remove and drain the Salmon, Bass, or
fillets; arrange on hot plates or a plat- Other Fish
ter. Either decorate with sprigs of
fresh dill or parsley and pass the Here is an easy way to make a nice
Poached salmon with cucumber sauce
sauce separately, or spoon the cucum- little appetizer course or luncheon
ber sauce decoratively over the fish. dish out of cooked or canned fish.
Salmon or Bass with
Cucumber Sauce To serve cold. Let the fish remain in For 6 servings, you'll want about 2
its poaching liquid at least 20 min- cups of fish-canned salmon is espe-
For a cool and delicious summer utes, to pick up flavor. Remove, cially good here, but other fish such
meal, serve this either hot or cold. drain, and chill. Serve on a bed of as cooked halibut , cod, or snapper, or
greens, and decorate with the sauce as canned tuna, are also candidates.
For 6 servings shown. First you make a well-flavored white
sauce, starting with a cup of minced
1 cucumber onions sauteed in 4 tablespoons of
¼ tsp each salt, sugar, and wine butter; when tender and translucent,
VARIATIONS
vinegar stir in the flour for your bechamel
1 cup sour cream (or part yogurt sauce-¼ cup. Proceed with the
and part sour cream)
Piperade
sauce, as directed on page 272, add-
2 to 3 Tbs minced fresh dill or ing 1 ½ cups of milk and ½ cup of
A colorful garnish of sliced onions,
watercress leaves dry white French vermouth. Season
green and red peppers, and garlic
6 salmon or bass fillets 6 to 8 ounces nicely, fold in a little fresh minced
sauteed in olive oil ( page 90). Cook
each, poached as directed in the dill, 1/3 cup of grated Swiss cheese,
the piperade a few minutes longer
master recipe (page 101) and the boned and flaked fish.
than directed, until tender, then
spread· over the hot fish. Serve the
Neatly dicing the cucumber. Peel the Turn the mixture into a buttered bak-
fish either hot or cold.
cucumber and halve it lengthwise; ing dish or individual shells, and
scoop out the seeds with a teaspoon. sprinkle the top with a little grated
Cut the halves into quarters and the cheese. All of this may be done ahead
quarters into crosswise pieces 2 and refrigerated; you have but to pop
inches long. Finally cut the quarters
Florentine
the fish in the upper third of a pre-
into matchstick julienne, stack the ju- heated 400°F oven 10 to 15 minutes
Fish fillets gratineed on a bed of
lienne, and cut into dice. before serving.
spinach, useful for advance prepara-
tion. Substitute stove-top poached fil-
The sauce. Toss the cucumber in a
lets for the oven-poached fillets on
bowl with the salt, sugar, and vine-
gar. Let stand 5 minutes or so, then page 88.
fold in the sour cream. Season care-
fully to taste, and fold in the dill or
watercress.
THE GREAT AMERICAN

LOBSTER
I t's the glory of our North Atlan-

tic coast-the American lobster,
with its incomparable flavor. You now
find them swimming about in super-
market glass tanks all over the coun-
try. They are alive and well and
available to all of us-at a price. But
almost all of the lobster can be used,
including the shells.
Choosing lobsters: Live lobsters

should be thoroughly alive, flapping
their tails against their chests and
waving their claws. Beware of
buying a ready-cooked lobster: unless
Fisherman's salad its tail is tightly folded against its
chest, chances are the lobster was
dead or dying before cooking.
Fisherman's Salad Drain if juices accumulate, and fold (Please read the Special Note on fish
with just enough mayonnaise to en- and shellfish safety, page 8 0.)
You can do so many attractive things robe the fish.
with cold fish that it's worthwhile
buying a little extra when you are at For the attractive arrangement pic-
it, so you'll have leftovers to play tured here, start by lining the bottom Storing live lobsters: Refrigerate
with. For instance, you can turn that of a large platter wi th curly endive them in a perforated brown paper
fish into a splendid cold salad, and greens that have been tossed with bag, or in a perforated carton with
serve it as a first course or have it as a salt, pepper, and a little oil. Mound fresh seaweed.
main-course luncheon dish. All you the fish in the center, and decorate
need are a few extras, and you're with red pepper or pimiento. Ring
ready to go. the fish with shrimp, and place ol- SPECIAL NO TE
ives , halved hard-boiled eggs, tomato
For 6 people, you'll want 2 to 3 cups quarters, red bell pepper strips, and Timing for Steamed Lobsters
of cooked fish or canned salmon or parsley sprigs at strategic intervals,
embracing the decor with a duet of Pounds Minutes
tuna, turned into a bowl and smartly
flavored with lemon juice, salt and slim scallions. 1¼ 12
freshly ground pepper, good oil, 1½ 15
minced scallions or shallots, minced
parsley, and fresh herbs such as dill. 2 18
2½ 20
3-5 21-25
JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK FIN FISH & SHELLFISH I 05
SPECIAL NOTE
Male or female? You can always tell a

female: the two tiny swimmerets un-
derneath the tail where it joins the
chest are fringed with hair, while
male swimmerets are clean and
pointed. Females are the most desir-
able for lobster stew and sauces, be-
cause the roe, or coral, turns
everything a lovely salmon-coral
pink.
Tomalley and roe (coral) . The creamy

green-gray substance in the chest cav-
ity of a cooked lobster is known as to-
malley. The female also contains the
pink roe that nestles along the tail
meat as shown; it is black when the
lobster is undercooked or raw. These
are prized parts of the lobster, giving
flavor and color to sauces and stews.
Amount of meat per lobster. 1 pound of

whole lobster should yield 1/3 to ½
cup (3 to 4 ounces) of cooked meat.
~◄ MASTER RECIPE
The Best Way to Cook

Lobsters: Steaming
People usually speak of cooked lob-

sters as being boiled, and if you run a SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: lobsters. Weight down the cover to
fish restaurant with an immense cal- A kettle 16 to 18 inches in diameter keep in the steam, and, as it starts to
dron just for lobsters, that's certainly and 12 or more inches deep ( or a large escape, lower the heat and set your
the way to do it. But steaming is far covered turkey roaster), and a rack or timer:
easier for the home cook. The num- colander to fit inside; a tight-fitting
ber you can steam at once, however, cover; a weight to hold down the cover; When are they done? Pull off one of
depends on the equipment at your a kitchen timer the little legs, and suck out the
disposal. meat-if it's done, the lobster's done.
Set the rack or colander in the kettle, (If you are not making the stock de-
For 6 lobsters, 2 pounds each pour in 1 ½ inches of water, and scribed farther on, declare that all
bring to the furious boil. Add the little legs are the cook's to eat.)
Lobster Shell Broth VARIATION and simmer 3 0 minutes. Strain into

another saucepan, pressing juices out
The shells have fine lobster flavor, Red Lobster Sauce a of ingredients. Boil down rapidly if
and when you chop them up and sim- l'Americaine necessary, to make about 2 cups of
mer them with aromatic flavorings fragrant juices. Remove from heat ,
you will have a wonderful base to That wonderful lobster sauce whi ch and whisk in the flour-butter paste;
store in your freezer for lobstery goes with the famous lobster a bring to the simmer, stirring, for 2
soups and sauces. l'americaine starts out in the same minutes. Whisk in a little tomato
way as the preceding broth. Serve the paste if you think it needed for depth
For 4 to 5 cups sauce with fish dishes, and especially of flavor and color; taste, and correct
wi th any of the mousses starting on seasoning.
2 Tbs fresh peanut oil page 124.
The chopped shells from 2 cooked
*Ahead-of-time note: Chill until cold,
lobsters For 1 ½ to 2 cups sauce then cover and refrigerate or freeze.
½ cup chopped onions
¼ cup chopped carrots The chopped shells, including if
¼ cup chopped celery stalks possible the little legs, from 2
lobsters , 1 ½ to 2 pounds each
6 cups liquid: fish stock, or 3 to 4 Lobster a I' Americaine
cups chicken stock plus water ¼ cup each chopped carrots and
1 cup dry white French vermouth or celery stalks
When you have saved the shells for a
dry white wine ½ cup chopped onions
sauce, and have on hand, or have
1 cup chopped fresh tomatoes, or ½ 2 Tbs fresh peanut oil
bought, a little lobster meat, here's a
cup canned Italian plum tomatoes ¼ cup Cognac or good brandy
beautiful way to serve it.
1 imported bay leaf 1 cup fish stock or chicken broth
A pinch of tarragon ½ cup beef broth
For about 2 cups
Salt ¾ cup dry white French vermouth
3 ripe red tomatoes, unpeeled, 2 Tbs butter
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: washed, cored, and chopped (or 1 The meat from 2 cooked lobsters (2
A heavy-bottomed 3- to 4-quart cup drained canned Italian plum cups or so)
saucepan tomatoes) 1 Tbs minced shallots
½ tsp dried tarragon Salt and freshly ground pepper
Heat the oil in the saucepan, add the 1 large clove of unpeeled garlic, ¼ cup dry white French vermouth
1/3 cup heavy cream
chopped shells, onions, carrots, and crushed
celery; saute 5 minutes over high Salt, freshly ground pepper, and hot % cup of the preceding lobster sauce
heat, stirring. Add the liq'uid , ver- pepper sauce If available: the coral and tomalley
mouth or wine, tomatoes , and herbs; 2 Tbs each flour and butter, creamed from the lobsters forced through a
bring to the simmer, and season into a paste sieve with 2 Tbs butter
· lightly with salt. Cover partially and A little tomato paste, if needed 2 to 3 Tbs minced fresh parsley and/
simmer 40 minutes. Strain. Use as a _or tarragon or chervil
base for sauces and fish soups . Making the sauce base. Saute the lob- ·
ster shells and chopped vegetables in
*Ahead-of-time note: Cover and re- the oil for 5 minutes. Pour in the A 1 Oc-inch no-stick frying pan
frigerate when cool, or freeze. Cognac or brandy and ignite; let
burn 15 seconds, shaking the pan,
then extinguish with the stock and/or
broth(s) and the vermouth . Add the
rest of the ingredients except for the
flour-butter paste and tomato paste,
The lobster. Heat the butter to bub- MANUFACTURING NOTE: The only tablespoons of butter. Continue the
bling in the frying pan, add the lob- way t o achieve the natural lobstery pink slow saute another 5 minutes or so,
ster meat and shallots; saute over color is to have female lobsters with roe. gently folding the lobster in the but-
moderate heat for 2 minutes. Season But if you can find only males, or only ter as the roe gradually turns the
lightly with salt and pepper, add the cooked lobster meat, stir in little drib- meat a salmony pink.
vermouth, and boil down rapidly un- bles of tomato paste until you get just the
til liquid has almost evaporated. Fold right subtle color. The wine and cream finish. Add the
in the cream and the lobster sauce; Madeira or vermouth, simmer a mo-
boil down a moment until lightly For 6 servings ment, then fold in the cream, which
thickened. Correct seasoning. Re- will turn pink and beautiful if you
2 cooked 2-pound lobsters, females if
move from heat; fold in the optional had lobster roe-otherwise mix in a
possible, with their tomalley and
coral and tomalley. Just before serv- little tomato paste as needed. Boil
roe (about 2 cups lobster meat)
ing, fold over moderate heat to re- slowly several minutes, gently fold-
6 Tbs butter
warm the lobster, but do not bring to ing lobster and sauce together, until
1 ½ Tbs minced shallots or scallions
the simmer. the sauce has thickened lightly. Taste,
correct seasoning, and the lobster is
A big pinch of tarragon
Serving suggestions. Serve as a separate ready to serve.
2 to 3 Tbs dry (Sercial) Madeira, or
course over toast points or boiled
¼ cup dry white French
rice, with a sprinkling of fresh *Ahead-of-time note: May be cooked
vermouth
herbs. Or serve it in puff pastry cases ahead and reheated.
½ to 213 cup or more heavy cream
( page 3 91 ). Or use it as a filling and
1 tsp or so tomato paste, if needed
sauce for the fish mousse in a ring Pasta with lobster sauce. You might
mold ( page 12 6) . When you have SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: serve this with angel-hair pasta,
this lovely sauce or lobster mixture A fine-meshed sieve; a 1 0-inch no-stick cooked at the last minute, drained,
on hand, you'll find many an excuse frying pan and tossed with a little butter and
for bringing it out. light virgin olive oil. Pile the pasta
The lobsters. Shell the lobsters, cut the onto warm plates, then quickly fash-
meat into bite-size pieces, and set ion a well in the center and spoon in
aside. Push the roe, if you have it, servings of lobster. Decorate with
Saute of Lobster in Wine and the tomalley through a sieve, and parsley or fresh tarragon, and serve.
and Cream reserve.
This simple recipe, sauteing the to- The tomalley-roe saute. Melt 4 table-
malley and roe along with the lobster spoons of the butter in the frying
meat, brings out the very essence of pan, stir in the sieved tomalley and
lobster. It is a useful technique to roe, and saute slowly over moderately
have in your repertoire since you can low heat for 5 minutes-it will turn
serve the lobster as a first course with a beige-pink; beige only if you have
little fleurons of puff pastry or toast no roe .
points. Or toss it with pasta, fold it
into crepes, use it as a base for souf- Adding the lobster meat . Fold in the
fles or as a sauce for fish or fish lobster meat and shallots or scallions,
mousses. Or, finally, make it the base season lightly with salt, pepper, and
for the fine lobster stew farther on. tarragon, and fold in the remaining 2
10 8 JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK
VARIATION
Lobster Stew
To get the best out of a lobster stew,

plan to make it a day or even two
days before serving, since it takes
time for the lobster flavor to insinuate
itself throughout the cream. And it is
cream here-milk just does not carry
that uniquely lobster flavor through- Very slow ly blending in the cream
out the stew. Furthermore, the but-

ter, which also distributes the flavor,
ADDITI ONAL LOBSTER RECIPES:
tends to separate from milk, while it
homogenizes with cream, turning it a
French Crepes Gratineed w ith Lobster
beautiful lobstery pink. Again, it's
( page 406) and variations ( page 407)
females you want here; otherwise you
will have to achieve pinkness through
Lobster Quiche ( page 3 87)
tomato paste.
by small dribbles, as though making Lobster Soujjie ( pages 7 3 and 7 5)
For about 2 quarts mayonnaise, begin ladling the cream
Ingredients for the preceding lobster into the lobster meat, folding gently Cold Lobster and Lobster Salad ( pages
saute and continually while the cream ab- 365 and 37 5)
5½ cups half-and-half or light cream sorbs the butter and takes on a pale
(in addition to the cream in the lobster hue, see illustration. (You
saute recipe) would blend in a little tomato paste
1 Tbs or so tomato paste, if needed midway through here, if needed.) SHRIMP
6 slices of chilled butter 3/B inch thick Season nicely with salt and pepper,
Hot buttered white toast, or toasted let cool, then cover and refrigerate.
and buttered English muffins
The lobsters. Remove the meat from

*Ahead-of-time note: It is best to
the stew 1 to 2 days ahead.
make S hrimp seems to be the universal
favorite seafood; even those who
say they hate fish will dig into a bowl-
the lobsters. Cut 6 thin slices of tail ful with gusto. However, shrimp
or claw meat and refrigerate in a cov- Serving. Folding gently, bring the have become increasingly expensive,
ered bowl for final decoration. Pro- stew slowly to below the simmer for and they are exceptionally perishable.
ceed to saute the roe, tomalley, and 2 to 3 minutes. (Meanwhile gently Because of this, many packers use a
lobster meat as directed. Let cool to warm the reserved pieces of lobster chemical called tripolyphosphate to
tepid. tail or claw in butter and seasonings.) keep shrimp firm and white. But
Taste the stew again for seasoning, when they use too much, the shrimp
Adding the cream. Meanwhile, heat and ladle the stew into hot soup cups take on an unpleasant cleaning-fluid
the cream to tepid-the same tem- or plates. Rapidly float on each serv- odor and taste. Read the package la-
perature as the lobster meat . Then, ing a slice of chilled butter on which bel, if there is one, and know your
you place a piece of lobster tail or market!
claw. Accompany with the warm toast
or muffins .
Buying and Storing Shrimp.

When buyi ng frozen shrimp (and I
think you get better quality buying
them raw in the shell-any
preserving chemicals seem less
noticeable), rush them home on ice if'
possible. Keep them solidly frozen at
0°F or lower until you plan to use
them; just before cooking, thaw them
in a basin of cold water. If yo ur
market has thawed the shrimp, give
your purchase a serious sniff before
leaving the premi ses; store them on
ice, and use them at once. Top-
quality frozen shrimp (and they can
be excellent) should not only smell
sweet and fresh, but also be
beautifully tender when cooked.
SPECIAL NOTE
Slirimp Sizes. Shrimp are

classified in almost a dozen categories Deveining. The intestinal vein is ~◄ MASTER RECIPE
according to the number of shrimp the dark spot you usually see in the
per pound-headless shrimp-in-the- flesh at the large end; it runs close Peeled Skewered Shrimp
shell, that is. The classes start with under the outside curve of the
"tiny" at over 7 0 per pound, go ing shrimp. Rather than cutting the flesh These are attractive as appetizers, or
through "large" at 3 1 to 3 5, "jumbo" open along the back, you can usually as a first course or luncheon dish.
at 2 1 to 2 5, "colossal" at 10 to 15, draw the vein out gently with your
and "extra colossal" at under 10 fingers and the help of a pa per towel. Serving 6 to 8 as a first course
shrimp per pound. Their cost Although it may be left in, that dark
30 to 32 raw "large" shrimp in the
increases with size, extra colossals line ruins the beauty of the shrimp.
shell (about 1 pound)
being the quickest to shell and
topping the price list. Marinade suggestions-any or all of
the following
SKEWERED,BARBECUED, 3 to 4 Tbs fine fresh olive oil or
Peeling Shrimp. l have yet to find AND SAUTEED SHRIMP peanut oil
a quick way to peel shrimp, and have 3 to 4 Tbs dry white French
never found peeling gadgets The following recipes are akin, since vermouth or lemon juice
satisfactory. If I don't want any shell in each the shrimp have a flavoring Salt and freshly ground pepper
on the tail , I squeeze off the shell at marinade, and a marinade is espe- Optional flavorings: hot pepper
that end , which sometimes loosens cially desirable for frozen shrimp. sauce, soy sauce, dark sesame oil,
the whole shrimp. Then, after With any of the three, serve a white pureed garlic, and grated fresh
peeling off a round or two of the wine like Chablis, Sancerre, or a ginger
shell at the underside of the large light sauvignon blanc. ½ tsp thyme, dill, or tarragon
end, I can usually pull the body out 15 strips thick-sliced bacon, halved
of the rest of the shell. crosswise
Skewering the shrimp and bacon Cutting down curved side of shell to open the Skewering several shrimp together
shrimp
Peeled Skewered Shrimp (continued) Colossal Butterflied Shrimp but not through the underside of the
shell. Remove the intestinal vein.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: This is for giant shrimp in the
• 3 0 to 3 2 pointed wooden skewers 7 to 8 shell-split open, bathed in heady The marinade. Whisk the marinade
inches long; an oiled broiling pan, if flavors, and broiled or grilled on the ingredients in a large mixing bowl;
needed barbecue. "Colossal" and "extra co- fold in the shrimp. Cover and refrig-
lossal" are the largest of the shrimp erate for an hour or two, basting the
Preliminaries. Before peeling and categories, but you could use what- shrimp with the marinade several
deveining the shrimp, set the skewers ever of the large sizes you can find- times.
to soak in cold water to keep them and afford.
from burning. Beat the marinade in- Broiling or barbecuing. Drain the
gredients in a bowl, gently fold in For 2 4 shrimp, 2 or 3 per person shrimp and wipe them off with paper
the shrimp, and let them steep 20 towels. (Reserve the marinade in a
minutes. Drop the bacon into a 24 giant shrimp in their shells ( 6 to 8
small bowl, beating in a little extra
saucepan with 2 quarts of water and headless shrimp per pound, if
oil.) Open the shrimp flesh side up;
blanch (boil slowly) for 5 minutes; possible) push one skewer through the large
drain, rinse, and pat dry in paper The marinade suggestions listed in
ends to hold them open, and another
towels. the master recipe
near the tail end if needed. Or you
¼ cup or so olive oil or peanut oil for
can use a longer skewer for several
Skewering. Push the sharp end of a basting shrimp, see illustration.
skewer through one end of a piece of
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT NEEDED:
bacon, then the large end of a To broil: Set flesh side down close
48 long sharp:..pointed wooden skewers,
shrimp, the middle part of a bacon under the red-hot broiler element for
soaked an hour in cold water; a basting
strip, finally the tail of the shrimp 1½ minutes; turn, brush with mari-
brush; a lightly oiled broiling pan, if
and the bacon end, see illustration. nade, and broil flesh side up another
needed
1 to 2 minutes or so, depending on
*Ahead-of-time note: Refrigerate in a Butterflying the shrimp. To butterfly
size, basting once or twice.
plastic bag and set over ice until
giant shrimp, arm yourself with
cooking time. To barbecue or grill: Start flesh side
small sharp-pointed scissors, and
down; turn, baste, and finish flesh
start cutting at the large end of the
Grilling or broiling. Either grill a side up, basting once or twice.
outside curve of the shell; cut
minute or so on each side, bacon side
through the length of the shell down
down at first, or set bacon side up
to the beginning of the tail, see illus-
close under a hot broiler element and
tration. Then, with a knife, cut
broil a minute or so, then turn and
through the length of the flesh just to
broil on the other side. Serve at once.
Jumbo Shrimp Sau teed in Finishing. Pour the shrimp and their 2 or more Tbs olive oil or fresh
Wine and Spices cooking liquid into a bowl and let peanut oil
cool for 20 minutes, turning and 2 Tbs minced shallots or scallions
Sauteing shrimp is easier and faster basting the shrimp with their juices ½ cup finely minced onions
than broiling them and this is a par- frequently. 1 large clove garlic, pureed
ticularly successful free-form recipe 2 tsp fragrant curry powder (more if
in which you add the flavors you Finishing the shrimp. If you plan to you wish)
wish. You will note that the shrimp peel them, do so while they are still l½ Tbs flour
are sauteed in the shell and peeled tepid. Meanwhile pour the cooking ½ cup dry white wine or dry white
afterward-which can, of course, be liquid back into the pan and boil it French vermouth
done at the table when you are serv- down until lightly syrupy. Stir in a 1 cup chicken stock
ing informally. Or serve them as an little fresh oil, lemon juice, and salt ¼ tsp dried thyme
hors d'oeuvre, on toothpicks. and pepper to taste. Toss the shrimp Salt and freshly ground pepper
in this liquid and decorate with pars-
30 "large" raw shrimp (about 1
For 2 4 "jumbo" shrimp ley, if you wish. Serve tepid or
pound in the shell), peeled and
chilled.
24 "jumbo" shrimp in their shells deveined
The marinade suggestions in the Drops of freshly squeezed lemon
master recipe juice as needed
Fresh olive oil, freshly squeezed ½ cup, more or less, sour cream
SAUCED SHRIMP
lemon juice, and fresh parsley, as Decoration: parsley sprigs and/or 6
needed whole shrimp sauteed in butter
The following are more formal ideas,
for shrimp to be served over rice, or SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
A 12-inch no-stick frying pan in a croustade or patty shell, needing A 10-inch no-stick frying pan
only a fresh green vegetable or a
Sauteing. Heat the oil in a large salad to complete the main course. The curried mushroom sauce. Saute the
frying pan until very hot but not You can adapt the same method for mushrooms briefly in the frying pan
smoking; toss in the shrimp. Add, scallops, crabmeat, and lobster-or with a tablespoon of the oil; toss in
for instance, droplets of sesame oil chicken breasts. the shallots or scallions the last min-
and soy, a clove of pureed garlic, a ute of cooking, then scrape the mush-
little grated ginger, salt, freshly rooms into a side dish. Add the
ground pepper, and a good pinch of remaining oil to the pan, stir in the
Curried Shrimp with onions and garlic, and cook slowly
thyme. Saute, shaking and swirling
the pan by its handle, just until the
Mushrooms for 7 to 8 minutes , or until tender
shrimp begin to turn pink. Pour in and translucent. Stir in the curry and
For this recipe you make a curried
the wine (you may want a little more flour, and cook slowly, stirring, for 2
sauce with onions, mushrooms, and
than suggested) and continue cooking minutes. Remove from heat, and
herbs, and fold in raw peeled shrimp
a moment or two more, tossing and blend in the wine, stock, and thyme.
at the end for their brief simmer. A
turning, and basting the shrimp with Simmer 5 minutes, correct season-
chardonnay or white Burgundy wine
the liquid. Cook them only until they ing, and fold in the sauteed mush-
would go here.
are lightly springy rather than rooms. Simmer 3 minutes; taste and
squashy to the touch, 2 or 3 minutes season nicely with salt and pepper.
For 6 servings, 5 shrimp per person
in all.
The curried mushroom sauce (continued )
½ pound fresh mushrooms,
trimmed, washed, dried, and
quartered
Curried Shrimp with Mushrooms (continued ) Curried Crab or Lobster SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
A chafing dish set-up ( page 410); a
with Mushrooms
Adding the shrimp . Fold in the shrimp long-handled serving spoon and fork; a
and simmer a minute or two only, Fold 1½ cups of cooked crab or lob- ladle for pouring in the Cognac
just until they have curled and are ster meat into the finished curried
barely firm when pressed. (If by mushroom sauce, simmer 2 minutes, Kitchen preliminaries. Shell and de-
chance the sauce is too liquid-it then complete the recipe. If you have vein the shrimp, place in a leakproof
should enrobe the shrimp-drain it any whole claw meat or little legs, plastic bag, and refrigerate in a bowl
out into a saucepan and boil down save them out to decorate each of ice until the moment of cooking.
rapidly until thickened, then return it servrng . Arrange the rest of the ingredients in
to the frying pan over the shrimp.) attractive containers on a tray, along
Taste carefully and correct seasoning, with your cooking utensils. Bring hot
adding drops of lemon juice as plates, the wine, and other accompa-
needed. Tabletop Shrimp Saute niments to the table just before you
begin-a helper would be welcome.
*Ahead-of-time note: If you are not Quick-cooking shrimp lend them-
continuing shortly, let cool, cover, selves easily to tabletop cooking. The cooking.
and refrigerate. Reheat to just the Here are several versions, starting
simmer before serving . with a cream and mustard sauce that The Shrimp Go In. Set the chafing
could be served over rice or on but- dish pan over high heat, and add the
Finishing the dish . Remove from heat, tered toast , and with variations in- shrimp. Toss and turn for about a
and fo ld in the sour cream by spoon- cluding mushrooms, or tomatoes, or minute, twirling and shaking the pan
fuls, only enough of it to enrich and a persillade of garlic and parsley. A by its handle to evaporate moisture .
thicken the sauce. Serve over rice, in sauvignon blanc should go well with Add the butter, and when it has
a rice ring, or on buttered toast, or in any of these. coa~ed the shrimp toss with a sprin-
toasted bread cases or patty shells. kling of salt and pepper. Continue
Top with parsley and/or a whole MANUFACTURING NOTE: Be sure you cooking and tossing for a moment,
shrimp. have a proper heat source for your an- until the shrimp turn pink.
tics; see the notes for Crepes Suzette on
page 410. Flaming in Cognac. Pour the Co-
gnac first into a ladle (to prevent an
VARIATIO N S
For 6 serv ings explosion in the bottle! ) , then over
the shrimp; tilt the hot pan into the
Curried Scallops or Chicken 36 "medium large" shrimp (about 1
flame to ignite (or light with a
Breasts with Mushrooms pound in the shell), peeled
match) .
4 Tbs unsalted butter ( or ¼ cup
Substitute ¼ pound of fresh raw clarified butter)
The Finish. In a few seconds,
scallops or boneless skinless chicken Salt and freshly ground pepper
douse the flame by pouring in the
breast for the shrimp . Cut the large ¼ to 1/3 cup Cognac
vermouth, toss with the shallots and
sea scallops or chicken breasts into 1/3 cup dry white French vermouth
herbs, then stir in the cream mixture.
½ -inch dice; calico and bay scallops 2 Tbs minced shallots or scallions
Spoon it over the shrimp for a min-
may stay as they are. A handful of fresh parsley, minced
ute or two as it bubbles and cooks.
Sprigs of fresh dill or tarragon,
Taste for seasoning, adding more salt
minced
and pepper, if needed. Pierce the
% cup heavy cream blended with 2
lemon with a fork and squeeze in
tsp cornstarch and 1½ Tbs Dijon-
drops of its juice from on high. Toss
type mustard
and baste a few seconds more, and
1 lemon, halved
serve.
VARIATIONS
With Mushrooms
Bring along to the table 2 cups of

quartered fresh mushrooms, previ-
ously sauteed in butter; toss them in
just before you add the cream/mus-
tard mixture . This could be a main
course, served over rice with a salad
or fresh green vegetable .
With Tomatoes
Or omit the cream, and along with

the herbs toss in a cup of diced fresh
tomato pulp (tomatoes peeled,
seeded, and juiced, page 357). This
could be a first course, served with
croutes of French bread ( page 24 ) .
Small and large sea scallops
SCALLOPS Many of us have never seen a whole

Persillade sea scallop in its fan-shaped shell be-
cause most of ours are caught way off
Or omit the wine, Cognac, and the
cream mixture. After tossing the
shrimp with the butter and seasoning
C oquilles St. Jacques is the
French name- France's St.
Jacques being our St. James the
the New England coast and then
shucked at sea. The only part of the
scallop retained is the fat short white
them with salt and pepper, toss with Apostle. Among legends surrounding edible cylinder, the adductor muscle,
the shallots and a large clove of very the name, my favorite is that medi- that opens and closes the shells . Alas,
finely minced garlic, then with a eval knights were bearing the re- another edible third of the scallop,
handful of fresh white bread crumbs, mains of the saint to his final resting the delicate and delicious pink roe, is
and finally ½ cup or so of chopped place in Spain. Nearing the end of thrown overboard. Perhaps one day
fresh parsley. You might serve this as their long journey, they crossed fishermen will see fit to keep it, con-
a first course, with baked cherry to- through an inlet of the sea, and when sidering the price scallops bring.
matoes and garlic bread or toasted they emerged from the water live
pi ta wedges ( page 3 3). scallops were clinging to their horses'
trappings and to their own clothing.
This was taken to be such a good and Va r.i et i es. The most common
holy omen that even today pilgrims scallop in our markets is the large sea
traveling back from the apostle's scallop. The small, tender, and
tomb in Santiago de Compostela always more expensive bay scallop is
proudly wear the cockle shell of St. seasonal and rarer ( see illustration of
Jacques to show where they've been. the two). Recent entries into the
market are Icelandic scallops, a little
smaller and less expensive than sea
scallops but cooked in the same way,
Scallops (continued) Frozen scallops. Outside of the SAUTEED SEA SCALLOPS

eastern seaboard, and certainly in the
and the much smaller and even less Far West, one usually finds frozen Sauteing is certainly one of the most
expensive calico scallops from sea scallops in the markets. Accord- direct and fundamental ways of cook-
Florida. Since the cooking method ing to Susan Faria's Northeast Seafood ing scallops. -You may saute them
and timings are not the same for all Book, a fine source book (Massa- very simply indeed with just a bit of
varieties, the following master chusetts Division of Marine Fish- garlic and parsley, or you may add
recipes are for sea scallops, with eries, Boston 02202, 1984), shucked trimmings as in the variation follow-
notes for bay and calico scallops. scallops, even when fresh, are often ing the master recipe. Serve the scal-
plumped by soaking in water, and lops as a first course with toasted
frozen scallops can be plumped in a French bread, or have them as a
phosphate solution to whiten the meat main course with green vegetables or
B u yin g and S tori n g S call ops . Be and improve its texture. This finally salad. You'll want a dry white wine
sure to smell them on the premises, explains to me why so often when with a certain amount of character,
since scallops are perishable. They sauteing scallops, everything is going like a Chablis, Sancerre, Alsatian
should have a sweet mild fresh odor; along just fine when suddenly a burst riesling , or sauvignon blanc.
a strong-smelling scallop is a stale of juice appears in the pan. For a
one. Refrigerate them in a leak-proof solution to this problem, see the saute
plastic bag in a bowl of ice, and cook recipe farther on.
them as soon as possible. The juice problem . What to do
when the juices escape , as they often
do when one sautes scallops,
Prep a ration for cooking. Look remained a continuing problem to me
Scallop Roe. If you are so fortunate over each large sea scallop and pull until the day I was di scussing squid
as to gather scallops yourself or to off the hard little nubbin fastened to cookery with my fish merchant in the
find them whole, the roe is the pink the side of the cylinder (it's tough south of France. Squid can exude
tongue attached to the muscle. when cooked but can be reserved and juice, too. Start them in a dry pan
Remove it delicately from the added to a fish stock). With the small over moderately low heat, he advised;
muscle, cook it separately since it is scallops, especially calicos, I am less let the juices come out, raise the heat
tenderer than the muscle, then either meticulous, removing only obvious to evaporate the liquid, and proceed
add it to the cooked dish or use it as a nubbins. After de-nubbining, swish with the cooking. It works for
decoration. the scallops briefly, with your hands, squid-and wild chanterelle
in a bowl of cold water to rid them of mushrooms, too. Since one never
any sand. Lift them out, again with knows with scallops, and they cook so
your hands, into a sieve to drain. If quickly, I now test out 2 or 3 in a dry
Amounts. l shall specify 1 pound (2 you are using large sea scallops you pan and if juices exude in the few
cups) of scallops for 6 people as a may wish to cut them into slices ¼ seconds they take to warm through, I
first course, and 1½ pounds (3 cups) inch thick across the grain, or cut have two choices. Either change to
for 6 people as a main course. them vertically into quarters or another cooking method, or saute
thirds. Keep scallops refrigerated on them in batches in a dry pan, drain
ice until the moment of cooking. and dry them, and then begin the
recipe but shorten the cooking time.
So far it is the only solution I know
for juice-exuding ( probably water-
plumped) scallops.
~◄ MASTER RECIPE Sauteing. Set the frying pan over

high heat, add the clarified butter or
Scallops Sauteed with Garlic the oil, and when thoroughly hot
and Herbs turn in the scallops. Let sit for I 0
seconds, toss briefly, let sit 4 to 5 sec-
Fast and sim ple, this is one of the tast- onds more, and continue tossing
iest ways with scallops. slowly, swirling the pan by its
handle, while the scallops begin to
MANUFACTU RI NG NOTE: It is essen- brown lightly. Then toss with the
tial here to have a high heat source and garlic and the shallots or scallions.
a heavy, heat-conducting frying pan Give several tosses to cook the trim-
that is not too large for your burner; mings; finally add and toss with the
saute in two batches if necessary since if parsley. The scallops should just feel
you crowd the pan the scallops w ill lightly springy to the touch, and the
steam rather than brown. whole operation should take no more
than 3 minutes. (If you are doing 2
For 6 servings batches, turn the saute into a side
1½ pounds (3 cups) sea scallops dish and keep warm in a 150°F oven Scallops Proven~ale being readied for the broiler
prepared for cooking as while doing the second group .)
previously described, and cut into VARIATION
thirds or quarters if large Serving. Serve at once, either in indi-

Salt and freshly ground pepper vidual shells or on hot plates. Gratine of S auteed S ca/lops
½ cup flour for dredging Provenrale
¼ cup, more or less, clarified butter For New England Bay Scallops Follow
(page 139 ) or olive oil the preceding recipe , but leave the The scallops are sauteed with herbs
1 large clove of garlic, minced scallops whole. and diced tomatoes, then turned into
1 ½ Tbs minced shallots or scallions serving shells and gratineed with
A handful of fresh parsley, minced For Calico S callops Leave calicos cheese just before serving. These are
whole and neither season nor flour attractive as a first course or luncheon
SPECIAL EQUIPM ENT SUGGESTED: them. Saute a cupful at a time in a dish.
A sheet of wax paper and a sieve for dry no-stick pan until the juices ex-
dredging; a heavy 10- to 12 -inch f rying ude, and set aside. Wipe out the pan , For 8 servings, as a first course
pan, no-stick recommended (see preced- then heat the butter or oil in it, add
Ingredients for the preceding sauteed
ing manufacturing note) the garlic and shallots , saute a mo-
sea scallops, but cut them into
ment, then add all the scallops, toss
with salt and pepper, and then with slices ¼ inch thick
Dredging the scallops. D ry the scal-
2½ cups ripe red tomatoes, peeled,
lops and spread on a piece of wax pa- the parsley. Saute a moment more ,
seeded, juiced, and diced (page
per. Toss with a sprinkling of salt and serve them.
357); and/or canned Italian plum
and pepper. T he moment before
tomatoes, drained, seeded, and
sautei ng, toss them in the flour, turn
diced
them into a sieve, and shake off ex-
cess flo ur.
¼ cup each grated Parmesan or
Swiss cheese and fresh white
bread crumbs mixed together
2 additional Tbs butter or olive oil
Gratine of Sauteed Scallops Provenc;:ale tomatoes and a sprinkling of salt and SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
( continued) pepper. Simmer over moderate heat, A 2-quart stainless saucepan with cover
stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes. Taste,
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: and correct seasoning. Fold in the The poaching base. Simmer the shal-
Equipment for the master recipe plus 8 scallops . lots or scallions slowly in the covered
lightly oiled serving shell., ( or an oiled pan with the vermouth, water, bay
baking dish) Turn into buttered or oiled shells or a leaf, and salt for 3 minutes. Add the
baking dish, spread with cheese and scallops and a little water, if needed:
Sauteing. Proceed with the master bread crumbs, and gratine under the the liquid should almost but not quite
recipe, and just as the scallops begin broiler as in the preceding recipe. cover the scallops. Bring just to the
to brown very lightly, after about I simmer, and time as follows.
minute, toss with the garlic and shal-
lots, then add the tomatoes and ver- Timing.
mouth. Boil over high heat for a POACHED SCALLOPS
moment , tossing and folding until For Whole Sea Scallops: Cover the
the juices have thickened enough to When you want to serve scallops in a pan and simmer slowly I½ to 2 min-
enrobe the scallops; fold in the pars- sauce, poaching is often the best way utes, just until the scallops are lightly
ley. Taste and correct seasoning. to go. They cook in a minute or so, springy rather than squashy to the
and the poaching liquid makes a per- touch.
Final assembly. Turn the scallops into fectly flavored sauce base .
the shells ( or baking dish). Sprinkle For Quartered Sea Scallops and
with cheese and bread crumbs and New England Bay Scallops: Simmer
drizzle a little butter or oil over the just a few seconds, until lightly
top. ~◄ MASTER RECIPE springy.
*Ahead-of-time note: May be com- Scallops Poached in For Calicos: Bring just to the
pleted in advance to this point. Cover White Wine simmer.
and refrigerate.
Here is the master method, with a Finishing. Let the scallops cool in the
Gratineing. Just before serving, heat number of sauce and serving sugges- liquid IO minutes or more, to pick
slowly under a hot broiler for a min- tions. Scallops cook so quickly you up its flavor.
ute or two, only until bubbling and must watch them closely-they
lightly browned . should be tender and juicy; overcook- Serving suggestions. Sauce and serving
ing toughens them. suggestions are essentially the same as
For New England Bay S callops Pro- for fillets of sole poached in white
ceed as for the recipe above , but For 8 to 1 0 as a first course; 6 as a wine, starting on page 8 8. Here are
leave the scallops whole. main course some examples.
For Calico Scallops Leave calicos 1 ½ Tbs minced shallots or scallions

whole and neither season nor flour 213 cup dry white French vermouth
them. Saute I minute, a cupful at a ½ cup water, plus more if needed
time, in a dry no-stick pan and set 1 smallish imported bay leaf
aside. Heat the butter or oil in the ½ tsp salt
pan, add and saute the garlic and 3 cups (1 ½ pounds) scallops,
shallot briefly, stir in the flour, and prepared for cooking as
cook slowly for 2 minutes without previously described; left whole if
browning. Remove from heat and let small, quartered or sliced if large
cool several minutes before blending
in the wine by dribbles. Fold in the
VARIATION To serve cold. This is particularly rec- Scallops Gratineed

ommended if you have used the to- in Their Shells
Au Nature/ matoes in the preceding variation. ((Coquilles St. Jacques"
Sauced with the pan juices After folding in the herbs, season-
ings, and scallops, fold in a little ol- This recipe and its following varia-
When you omit the optional butter ive oil, if you wish. Let cool. Serve tion are useful for ahead-of-time
enrichment here, you have the ideal on a bed of cold cooked pasta ( page preparation. The scallops are poached
dieter's scallop, and non-dieters will 367). Or arrange them on a bed of as usual, and then enrobed in a deli-
never know. seasoned salad greens, and garnish, if ciously winey cream sauce made from
you wish, with fresh green beans in their cooking liquid. It is a classic
For 6 people as a main course vi naigrette, cucumbers, and black French treatment, and makes a most
Ingredients for the preceding olives. attractive first course or luncheon
scallops in white wine dish.
Minced fresh herbs, such as parsley
and/or basil For 8 people as a first course or lun-
Salt, freshly ground pepper, and Scallops in White Butter cheon dish
drops of freshly squeezed lemon Sauce and Herbs
The master recipe for scallops
juice
Use exactly the same system for scal- poached in wine (page 116)
lops as for the sole on page 90, where 3 Tbs butter
After poaching the scallops as de-
the poaching liquid is boiled down to 3 Tbs flour
scribed, remove them, using a slotted
a simmering syrup while a whole ¾ cup or so heavy cream
spoon, to a bowl. Boil down the
stick of butter is beaten in piece by Salt, freshly ground white pepper,
poaching liquid over high heat until
piece-a most divine sauce for non- and drops of freshly squeezed
almost syrupy. Blend in the fresh
dieters. lemon juice
herbs, correct seasoning, and fold in
Milk, as needed
the poached scallops.
¼ cup grated Swiss cheese

Scallops in Cream 8 buttered scallop shells or individual
With Tomato ovenproof serving shells or dishes
Another non-dieters' delight: after
After boiling down the poaching liq- boiling down the poaching liquid,
The scallops. After poaching the scal-
uid, stir in 1½ cups of peeled, boil it again with 1 cup or more of
lops in white wine, remove them to a
seeded, and juiced tomatoes . Cover heavy cream until lusciously thick-
bowl. Boil down the poaching liquid
and simmer 2 to 3 minutes, for the ened; season, and fold in the scallops.
to 1 cup.
tomatoes to render their juices, then
uncover and boil several minutes to Veloute sauce. Cook the butter and
evaporate liquid and thicken the flour together 2 minutes without col-
sauce. Season, and fold in the S ca/lops and Mushrooms in oring; off heat beat in the hot poach-
scallops. Cream ing liquid and cream. Season and
simmer 3 minutes, adding droplets
To serve hot. Fold over moderate heat If you wish to add mushrooms, sim- of milk if the sauce is too thick. (Full
for a minute or so to warm the scal- mer them in the poaching liquid after details··are on page 2 7 2.)
lops but not to recook them. Serve removing the poached scallops. Then
over boiled rice, or with fresh peas boil down this now even more deli- Assembling. Fold enough of the sauce
and French bread. cious liquid, and add the cream as into the scallops to enrobe them, di-
described.
Scallops Gratineed in Their Shells (continued) OYSTERS AND MUSSELS

SPECIAL NOTE
vide them among the shells and top
each with ½ tablespoon of grated
cheese. Arrange the shells on a bak-
ing sheet (the sheet lined with
0 ysters and mussels make
great first courses, and both,
especially oysters, are becoming in-
To open an oyster the
easiest way
crumpled foil if they are unsteady). creasingly available, not only at spe- It is wise, when opening oysters, to
cialty fish purveyors, but in our smell each one as you do so; it should
*Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared everyday supermarkets. have a fresh, sweet, and appetizing
to this point in advance; cover and odor. When the oysters have a slight
refrigerate. gap at the closed hinge, you can make
quick work of them either with a
Serving. Shortly before serving, set Buying and storing oysters in beer-can opener or a stout oyster
about 4 inches from a hot broiler ele- th e shell. Make sure that the knife.
ment just until bubbling hot and the oysters come from areas approved by
cheese topping has browned nicely. the health services. Oysters should be Place an oyster, curved side down, on
displayed on ice, and if your market your work surface; the small or hinge
is serious they will be placed so that end of the oyster should be facing
the curved sides of their shells are you.
Accompaniments to C oquilles down-meaning the oysters are
St. Jacques resting in their juices. If they are The beer-can opener. This is the easiest
packaged in plastic, you will have to opener. Turn it upside down, insert
As a first course, just French bread. rely on your market, but it's always the pointed end into the gap at the
As a luncheon dish, a tossed salad or best if you can choose them yourself. hinge, press down on the handle
fresh green vegetable could follow. A Pick only those that feel heavy in while holding the oyster firmly with
chardonnay or white Burgundy their shells, that are tightly closed, your other hand-the hinge pops
would be my wine of choice here. and, for easy opening, those with a open.
gap in the hinge. When you bring
them home, scrub each under Or the oyster knife. Work the point of
running cold water with a vegetable an oyster knife into the hinge with an
Gratine of S ca/lops Florentine brush, drain, and pile curved side up-and-down pushing motion until
down in a bowl, its bottom lined with the hinge pops.
Fold a spoonful or so of the sauce crumpled aluminum foil. Cover with
into 2 cups of beautifully flavored 2 thicknesses of dampened paper R emoving the top shell. With the
cooked fresh spinach, and layer that towels, and a loose topping of hinge open and still facing you, in-
into a baking dish or individual aluminum foil. Refrigerate them, sert a small knife inside the top shell
shells. Spread sauced scallops on top, and they will keep perfectly for a at the east-northeast corner section
sprinkle on the cheese, and brown week or more. where the muscle is attached; scrape
under the broiler. This follows the through the muscle to release it. Lift
general directions for the sole Flor- (Please see Special Note on fish and up the front of the top shell and bend
entine on page 93. shellfish safety, page 8 0.) the shell toward the hinge to snap it
free, and that's all there is to it.
each mussel. It should have a sweet

fresh smell; scrape off the beards (the
hairy tuft protruding from one side
of the shells). Cultivated mussels
rarely have sand in the shells and now
usually come ready to cook.
Clams. Directions for choosing,

Inserting beer-can opener into hinge of oyster Preparing the oysters
storing, scrubbing, and de-salting
clams are on page 22.
~◄ MASTER RECIPE
Oysters Broiled in
OYSTERS AND MUSSELS Garlic Butter
SERVED IN THEIR SHELLS
A very simple method, and one of
the best-although I've given ver-
There's no problem what to serve for
sions before, here's another in case
a first course when you have oysters
you missed them.
and mussels at hand. They are the so-
Bearding mussels with a knife
lution, and, seeing the price of oys-
For 18 oysters, serving 6 as a first
ters, even just two or three per
course
person will do.
Shucked oysters bought in bulk. 18 oysters
I have tried several sources of 6 Tbs butter in a small frying pan
shucked oysters and I find they have a SPECIAL N OTE
1½ Tbs minced shallots or scallions
quite strong off taste-almost of 1 large clove of garlic, pureed
iodine, probably from preserving Cleaning wild mussels. If you 2 Tbs freshly squeezed lemon juice
chemicals. I don't like them and do have wild mussels, scrub them under Salt and freshly ground pepper
not use them. cold water with a stiff brush and 213 cup fine crumbs from fresh home-
scrape with a knife to remove made type white bread
seaweed and so forth. Then, to rid 3 Tbs minced fresh parsley
them of sand, drop the mussels into a
Preparing mussels for cooking. basin of lightly salted cold water ( 1/3
A broiling pan lined with crumpled foil
Be sure your mussels come from cup salt per 4 quarts water, says my
approved sources. Mussels are far seafood manual, mentioned on page
Assembling. Open the oysters. Drain
more perishable than the hardy 114); knock them together with your
out the juices and save for fish stock.
oyster, and cultivated mussels are hands, and let them sit 10 minutes.
Loosen the meat from the lower
cleaner and easier to handle than wild Remove them with your hands to a
(curved) shell and leave it in the
one~. Be sure the shells are tightly colander and if more than a few
shell. Melt the butter, stir in the
closed, keep them well iced, and plan grains of sand remain in the basin,
shallots or scallions and garlic; saute
to use them as soon as possible. repeat. Wild mussels often need
minute, until translucent. Stir in
Before cooking, carefully look over several soakings.
(continued)
12 0 J U LI A CHILD THE WAY TO COOK
NUTRITIONAL NOTE: For a fat-free Steaming the mussels. Melt the butter
mariniere, simmer the onions in the in the kettle, stir in the onions and
the lemon juice, a big pinch of salt, wine rather than sauteing them in butter optional garlic, and cook slowly for
and several grinds of pepper. Blend as described in the following recipe. several minutes, until limp. Then
the bread crumbs with the parsley add the parsley and the mussels,
and spread over the oysters. Drizzle For 6 servings cover the kettle, and shake once to
over each a tablespoon of the butter mix all the ingredients. Pour in the
mixture. 4 Tbs butter
vermouth or wine and shake once
1 cup minced onions
again. Turn heat to high, cover
1 large clove of garlic, pureed,
*Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared tightly, and let steam for 3 to 4 min-
optional
several hours in advance. Cover and utes (without shaking again in case of
A large handful of chopped fresh
refrigerate. sand), just until the mussels have
parsley
opened.
4 quarts fine fresh mussels, prepared
Broiling. Just before serving, set
for cooking as previously
about 3 inches from a hot broiler ele- Serving. Dip the mussels out, shells
ment and, watching closely, let the described
and all, into the soup bowls. Tip the
2 cups dry white French vermouth
crumbs brown lightly while the oys- kettle and ladle the fragrant cooking
or dry white wine
ters warm through. Serve at once. liquor into each serving, being care-
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: ful not to include any sand at the bot-
A 6- to 8-quart kettle with tight-fitting tom of the kettle.
VAR IATION cover; big soup bowls
Suggested accompaniments. Chilled dry
Mussels or Clams Broiled in white wine like an Alsatian riesling,
Garlic Butter and French bread.
Follow exactly the same system for

mussels or clams, opening them raw,
placing them on a broiling pan lined
with crumpled foil, and spreading on
the topping. Half a dozen large mus-
sels or medium clams are sufficient
per person.
~◄ MASTER RECIPE
Mussels Steamed in
White Wine
Moules mariniere
Here is the classic way to serve fresh

mussels. Steam them in minced on-
ions, parsley, and white wine just un-
til they open, and serve them
mounded in great bowls. Use a pair
of the hinged shells to pluck out the
mussel meat, and when all are eaten,
drink the fragrant liquor. Mussels steamed open
VARIATIONS form, this is essentially the same so- All-purpose soup base.
phisticated flavoring system as for the
"Soup! Soup! Beautiful Soupr' Waterzooi of chicken on page 14 7, The vegetables. Melt the butter in
and Waterzooi started out as a Bel- the 3-quart saucepan, turn in all the
Start out with mussels steamed in gian fish dish in the first place. Thus vegetables except for the cucumbers,
wine, add a handful of aromatic veg- we gradually come full circle, start- and toss several times to coat them
etables simmered in butter, the winey ing with mussels. with the butter; then pour in the 4
mussel juices, and you do indeed cre- cups of liquid, add the bay leaf, and
ate a beautiful soup. Not for mussels For 2½ quarts, serving 6 to 8 bring to the simmer. Cover partially
only, since the idea goes for other and simmer 15 minutes, or until the
things, too, like oysters and chicken 4 quarts mussels steamed in wine,
vegetables are tender. Add the cu-
breasts . Here are two versions, one a the preceding recipe
cumbers the last 2 to 3 minutes of
little more elaborate and classical The vegetables cooking.
than the other.
The following vegetables cut into The veloute sauce. Cook the butter,
MANUFACTURING NOTE : These are
fine julienne (matchstick size): 3 optional curry powder, and flour
cream soups, meaning you have a liai-
or 4 medium carrots (2 cups); 2 slowly together for 2 minutes; off
son of some sort that thickens the liquid
medium onions, white of leek, heat beat in the hot milk; season and
and retains a certain amount of the in-
tender celery stalks, and simmer 3 minutes-full details on
gredients in suspension. To make a liai-
cucumbers ( 1 cup of each) page 272.
son you need a thickening element . The
4 cups liquid: mussel steamin;~juices
richest and most beautiful, which I shall
and/or fish stock or light chicken Finishing the soup. Pour the veloute
only mention here, is simply a goodly
broth into the vegetables and their liquid.
number of egg yolks and cream; it's the
I large imported bay leaf Simmer 2 to 3 minutes, taste, and
yolks that do the thickening. The more
correct seasoning. Fold in the
traditional approach is a veloute, Theroux base steamed mussels.
meaning a butter and flour roux, and a 2½ Tbs unsalted butter
modest. egg-yolk and cream enrichment; 2 tsp curry powder, optional *Ahead-of-time note: May be com-
this makes a splendid soup when lightly 3 Tbs flour pleted in advance to this point. Float
and carefully done . Lastly, rather than 2 cups hot milk a film of milk on the surface to pre-
the butter and flour roux, there is a li-
vent a skin from forming. When
aison of starch, like the cornstarch ver- Salt and pepper
cool, cover and refrigerate.
sion in this group, or the puree of
cooked rice on page 5; here you have no
A heavy-bottomed 3 -quart stainless Serving.
butter. In both cases the egg-yolk and
saucepan with cover for the veg,~tables
cream enrichment is yours to contract,
and soup; a 6-cup stainless pan . fo r the To serve as is. Fold the soup over
expand, or eliminate . \
roux base moderate heat and bring to just below
the si mmer; correct seasoning again.
The mussels. After steaming the mus- Top each serving with a dollop of
sels as described in the master recipe, sour cream and a good pinch of
Mussel Soup
discard the shells and reserve the chopped fresh parsley or chervil, and
With a julienne of vegetables
meat in a bowl. Carefully pour the place 2 or 3 mussels in their shells in
cooking liquid into a stainless sauce- each bowl.
The aromatic base here is so good it
makes a delicious soup all by itself. pan, adding also as much of the pars-
ley and onion as you safely can A cream and egg-yolk enrichment .
Although concocted in a different
without including any sand that may Blend 3 egg yolks in a bowl with ½
be at the bott~m of the kettle.
Mussel Soup (continued) Monterey Bay Sole Food Stew 1½ pounds (3 cups) Monterey or
other sole fillets, cut into thin
to 2/J cup of sour cream or heavy This is the same idea as the preceding slanting slices, like smoked
cream; by driblets, whisk in 2 cups recipes, but a simpler version I once salmon
of the hot soup liquid. Gradually did for a stand-up demonstration in 2 egg yolks blended with 1 cup sour
blend back into the soup. Add 3 to 4 Monterey. You could use this system, cream
tablespoons of minced fresh parsley too, for oysters or mussels. Chopped fresh parsley or chervil
or chervil and fold the soup over
moderate heat as it rethickens lightly For 6 servings The vegetable base. Saute the sliced
and comes to just below the simmer. vegetables slowly in the butter in a
Carefully correct seasoning again, 2 each: medium carrots, whites of
covered saucepan about IO minutes,
and serve, adding mussels in their leeks, tender celery stalks, and
until tender. Add the seasonings to
shells to each, if you wish. onions, all thinly sliced
taste, wine, and stock or broth. Sim-
2 to 3 Tbs butter
mer 5 minutes, and remove from
heat.
white pepper, and tarragon
VARIATION
2½ cups dry white wine (such as a
Finishing the soup. Blend dribbles of
young Monterey chardonnay)
Oyster Bisque the soup liquid into the cornstarch
2½ cups fish stock or light chicken
and wine, and after about a cup has
broth
Using the same system of white gone in, blend the mixture back into
1 Tbs cornstarch blended with 2 Tbs the rest of the hot soup. Simmer 2
wine, a broth of some sort, and an
white wine
aromatic vegetable base, you are set minutes, then fold in the diced toma-
1½ cups diced tomato pulp, page 357
for all kinds of delicious soups, such toes and the fish. Bring just to the
as this oyster bisque.
For 2½ quarts, serving 8
32 or more large fresh oysters

Ingredients for the base in the
preceding mussel soup including
the strained oyster juices and 1
cup or so of white wine or
vermouth in the 4 cups of liquid
called for
Drain the oysters and place in a stain-

less frying pan with 1 cup of the liq-
uid; bring to the simmer for a
minute or two, just until the oysters
plump and swell. Set aside, and fold
into the finished soup base.
Variations with Fish or Chicken. Sub-

stitute thin strips of fish, such as sole
or flounder, or of chicken breast for
the mussels or oysters in the preced-
ing recipes, simmering them for just
a moment in the soup base.
Oyster Bisque
simmer. Carefully taste and correct FISH MOUSSES bread crumbs. But shrimp or scal-
seasoning . Blend a cup of hot soup by lops are useful additions to bolster a
I
dribbles into the egg yolks and mixture that otherwise lacks texture.
cream; fold this into the soup, and n the old days a fish mousse took
remove from heat . several hours of hand labor, and In other words, there is really no rule
was strictly in the realm of the of thumb , but you can't lose out if
*Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared professional kitchen and haute cuisine. you are on an experimental spree be-
in advance to this point; refrigerate, Because of that wonderful machine, cause if the mousse is too soft to form
and cover when chilled. the food processor, there is so little by hand, try dropping it from a
fuss to making a mousse that it is spoon into simmering water. If it's
Serving. At serving time, reheat to now part of plain everyday cooking. too loose for that , bake it in a mold.
below the simmer, folding gently But not such plain cooking that you If all else fails , turn it into a delecta-
with several tablespoons of chopped cannot perform remarkably attrac- ble creamy fish soup simply by sim-
parsley or chervil. Taste again and tive, even lightning-speed acrobatics mering it with milk or fish stock.
correct seasoning. Turn into a warm with it. Mousses are fun to fool
tureen or warm soup bowls. around with, and as soon as you have
made one or two and see the possi bil-
ities , you will be creating your own Some desirable choices offish
presentations. First, a short discus- for mousses: Eastern halibut,
Chick en Breast Bisque sion on fish. freshwater trout , gray sole, imported
Dover sole , John Dory (St. Peter
For a superior chicken soup, substi- fish), Pacific petrale sole, salmon,
tute thin slices of raw chicken breast scallops , shrimp , imported turbot,
and chicken broth for the fish and MOUSSE FISH whiting (silver hake) .
stock in the preceding recipe .
A fish mousse is a puree of high-
quality fish into which you beat as
much heavy cream as it will take and Manufacturing Notes:
still hold its shape, either to be
poached in butter or in liquid , or to
be baked in a mold . Its texture is in-
finitely finer than fish cake or dump- Egg vs . panade vs. bread
ling because of the cream, and the
crumbs. The classic fish mousse
more cream it takes unto itself, the
includes a panade, a simple pate-a-
lighter and more delicious it will be.
choux pastry cream, to act as a binder
However, this is obviously not a dish
and liaison . Fresh bread crumbs are
for dieters, who had best stick to the
an easy alternati ve, and useful for
simple fish cake. Flimsy fish like
quick action . Or, if you have very
flounder and California halibut are
gelatinous fish or shellfish, you can
hopeless mousse candidates, while
use only egg whites and cream. The
fish with a certain gelatinous quality,
three methods are interchangeable.
like Eastern halibut, gray sole, pe-
trale sole, salmon, and trout, are just
what you want. Shrimp and scallops
are a special case . Because of their Keep everything chilled. A
firm and gelatinous texture a mousse chilled fish will absorb more cream,
of scallops alone, for instance, can be and will hold better when formed for
rubbery unless combined with a
poaching.
lighter fish like flounder, or with
124 JULIA CHILD THEW A Y TO COOK
If to be dropped from a spoon, it can

be a little looser; you might cook a
sample as a test.
If to be baked in a mold. It can be

looser still but should hold its shape
softly. Process in bread crumbs to
give it body, or cream to loosen it.
Final seasoning. Process in a teaspoon

I . Scallops go ing into processor with fish 2. P rocess the fish until perfectly smoot h.
or so of brandy, if you wish. Taste
very carefully, and correct seasoning.
~◄ MASTER RECIPE The mousse. Cut the fish into 1-inch
pieces. (If you are using shrimp chop *Ahead-of-time note: May be done
All-Purpose Fish Mousse them roughly; wash scallops, remove several hours in advance; pack into a
the small tough muscle attached to covered container and refrigerate in a
For about 4 cups one side, and chop roughly if they bowl of ice. You may freeze the
1 pound (2 cups ) best-quality chilled are the large sea scallops.) Drop the mousse.
skinless and boneless fish from fish, see illustration, step 1, into the
the preceding list (if your fish is bowl of the food processor along with
light in texture like flounder, the egg, ½ cup of the cream, and the VA RIATIO N
include 4 ounces or ½ cup of raw seasonings to taste. Process, using
shrimp or scallops) half a dozen I -second spurts; process Choux Pastry Mousse
1 "large" egg, chilled several seconds continuously, then
½ to 1 cup (or more) heavy cream, start checking. The mousse should be See the Timbales of Sole, page 12 8,
chilled perfectly smooth, step 2; scrape down for an example.
Seasonings: 1 tsp salt, freshly the bowl and process a few seconds
ground w hite pepper, and a small more if necessary.
pinch of nutmeg
If needed: up to 1 cup lightly pressed Consistency test.
dow n crumbs from fresh
homemade-type crustless w hite If to be molded by hand for sauteing
bread w ith body or poaching. It should hold a definite
1 tsp brandy, optional shape in a spoon, its peaks and val-
leys quite well defined. If it seems
SPEC IA L EQU IPMENT SUGGEST ED : A loose and lacking in body, process in
food processor with steel blade bread crumbs by ¼ cupfuls ( or you
could add ¼ cup or more raw
shrimp or scallops). On the other
hand, if too stiff, process in more
cream by small dollops.
After removing the galettes to hot

plates or a platter, sprinkle the pars-
ley over them. Toss the sliced butter
into the hot pan and increase heat to
high. Swirling the pan by its handle,
swish the butter around as the
bubbles subside, and in a few seconds
the butter will begin to turn a walnut
brown (not black!). Pour the hot but-
ter over the galettes-the parsley will
I. Flouring the galettes 2 . Sauteing the other side
sizzle. Drop the capers into the pan,
heat them briefly until they bubble,
Fish Galettes-Fish step 1, and set it in the warm frying and spread them over the galettes.
Burgers-Fish Cakes pan. Continue rapidly with the rest. Serve at once.
( ote: If too soft to form into cakes,
These are quick to make, almost as you may drop portions into the hot
quick as a hamburger. They're ele- butter from a spoon.) Saute slowly 2
gant morsels to serve just as they are to 3 minutes (while you wash your QUENELLES
with a parsley butter sauce and fresh hands!), turn, and saute on the other (Delicate fish dumplings)
spinach or green peas. Or be more side, step 2.
elaborate with something like the For quenelles, you either roll por-
lobster sauce a l'americaine on page When are they done? When just tions of the mousse lightly in flour to
106. springy rather than squashy to the form sausage shapes and drop them
touch, and they should barely color. into simmering salted water, or you
For 6 to 8 galettes nudge them into the water from a
Serving and sauce suggestions: Adapt spoon. Here is the latter system,
The master recipe for All-Purpose any of the sauces listed for poached which is easy and pleasantly free-
Fish Mousse, chilled-make it fish fillets starting on page 8 8, such form. While sausage-shaped que-
firm enough to hold its shape as a white butter sauce with herbs nelles need a reasonably firm mousse,
3 to 4 Tbs unsalted butter and/or tomato, cream sauce, curry those dropped from a spoon can be
1 cup flour on a sheet of wax paper with mushrooms, lobster sauce, and softer. In any case, make a small test
there's always hollandaise. One of the run to be sure they will hold their
easiest and most attractive suggestions shape.
A bowl of cold water beside you; 1 or 2
is the following black butter sauce.
no-stick frying pans
Forming and sauteing. Divide the

mousse into the number of galettes VARIATION
you are making. Just before sauteing,
film the pan or pans with a 1/16-inch Galettes with Black Butter
layer of butter and set over low heat. Sauce
Fish cakes are far less solid than
hamburgers to form . The following For about ¾ cup, serving 6 to 8
system works for me: dip your hands
3 Tbs minced fresh parsley
in the cold water, form a cake, turn
6 ounces ( 1½ sticks) unsalted butter,
lightly in the flour, see illustration,
cut into slices
3 Tbs capers
Shrimp Quenelles in a Suggested accompaniments

Tomato Sauce for galettes and quenelles
For 6 to 8 quenelles A fresh green vegetable such as green

peas, broccoli florets, beans, or
Salt
asparagus tips. French bread, and a
The master recipe for all-purpose
dry white wine with body, such as a
fish mousse, made with 1½ cups
chardonnay, pinot blanc, or white
raw shrimp meat and ¾ cup sole
Burgundy.
or flounder-well chilled
3 Tbs butter I. Forming quenelles with two wet spoons

1 cup fresh tomato sauce (page 358) Crown Mousse of Trout
to be served hot or cold
A saucepan or electric skillet 1 0 to 12
Here is an elaborate presentation for
inches in diameter and just over 2
that special occasion such as a lun-
inches deep; 2 soup spoons and a rubber
cheon or summer dinner-a hand-
spatula in a pitcher of cold water; a
some treat whatever the weather,
rack covered with paper towels; a 12-
since it can be served either hot or
inch no-stick frying pan with cover
cold.
Poaching the quenelles. Pour 2 inches 2 . Poaching the quenelles MANUFACTURING NOTE: It's useful to
of water into the saucepan and add know that trout is one of the best choices
1½ teaspoons of salt per quart of fo r a mousse, since trout are almost al-
water. Bring to the simmer. Dip a ways to be had throughout the country
wet soup spoon into the chilled while other desirable fish are not. As an
mousse and bring up a rounded gob; added attraction here, the mousse is
shape the top neatly by inverting the crowned w ith salmon fillets. Because
bowl of the second wet spoon over it, this creation is for a party, the propor-
see illustration, step 1. Nudge it into tions are for 12 rather than 6, but the
the water with the rubber spatula, mousse-making procedure is the same.
step 2. Rapidly continue with the rest
of the mousse. Maintain the water at For 6-cup ring mold, serving 12
just below the simmer for 6 to 8 3. P oached quenelles in tomato sauce
minutes-if the water simmers or 2½ cups skinless and boneless trout
boils, the quenelles may disintegrate. fillets ( 4 fish, 1 pound each)
Sauce and serving. Melt the butter in ½ cup ( 4 ounces) scallops
When are they done? The quenelles the frying pan, arrange in it the que- 2 cups lightly pressed down crumbs
are done when they roll over easily. nelles and baste with the butter. Mix from crustless fresh white home-
Remove them with a slotted spoon to the vermouth with the tomato sauce made type bread
the rack. and pour over and around the que- 2 cups combined sour cream and
nelles, step 3. Cover and simmer heavy cream, plus more if needed
*Ahead-of-time note: May be poached slowly for several minutes, basting ¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
· in advance; cover and refrigerate. once or twice with the sauce, until Seasonings: salt, freshly ground
May be frozen. well heated through. Serve on hot white pepper, and nutmeg to taste
plates or a hot platter. ½ pound salmon fillet (all brown
flesh removed)
Pounding salmon fillets
Filling the mold
salmon. Process 15 seconds, or until *Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared

the puree holds its shape softly; add a few hours ahead to this point.
more cream by spoonfuls if it seems Cover with plastic wrap, set in a pan
too stiff; taste carefully and correct of ice, and refrigerate.
seasomng.
Baking-about 1 hour at 350°F.
The salmon, which is to line the mold. Cover the mold with buttered wax
Cut the salmon fillet into crosswise paper and a lid, as shown. Set it in
slices about ½ inch thick and 1 inch the roasting pan in the lower third
wide. Pound one at a time between level of the oven, and pour simmer-
sheets of wax paper to expand and ing water around the mold to come
Cover going over buttered wax paper
widen them. If you are short of halfway up its outside. Bake for
salmon don't worry; just space them about 1 hour (add more watei:, if
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: out decoratively in the next step. needed).
A heavily buttered 6-cup ring mold and
a roasting pan that will hold it in the Lining and filling the mold. Lightly When is it done? When slightly risen,
oven; an appropriate serving platter salt and pepper the salmon and press the top feels lightly springy, and it
the pieces into the sides and bottom shows a very faint line of shrinkage
The mousse mixture. Chop the trout of the buttered ring mold. Scoop the from the sides of the mold. Let it
fillets and scallops roughly. Place in mousse into the mold without dis- settle for 10 minutes before unmold-
the food processor with all of the turbing the salmon. Bang the mold ing onto a hot buttered platter.
mousse ingredients except the firmly but gently on your work sur-
face to collapse any air bubbles.
Sauteed Chicken (c ontinued ) Fresh Green Pea and Onion Timbales of Sole with
Filling for the Mousse Mussels
Serving Suggestions for Individual mousselines of sole filled with
Ring Molds Cook 3 cups of fresh green peas and mussels
1 ½ cups of small white onions and
To serve hot . Fill the center of the let cool. Shortly before serving, toss A fish mousse can line a mold, and
ring with vegetables, such as the peas them with a dressing, such as the oil the mold can then be filled with a de-
and onions in the photograph and the and lemon recipe on page 3 5 0, and liciously sauced something like lob-
following recipe. Or fill it with the turn them into the center of the ring. ster or scallops, or, as in this case,
Broccoli-Sauced Broccoli on page mussels in a winey cream. Formed in
27 0. A light hollandaise sauce ( page individual molds, these make a
87) or the sour-cream sauce follow- dressy first course or luncheon dish.
SPECIAL NO TE
ing here could both enrobe the
mousse and be passed separately. MANUFACTURING NOTE: H ere, for a
To Fillet a Trout change, is the classic mousse w ith pa-
To serve cold. You fill the ring with nade; however, you may substitute the
First free the fillets from each side of all-purpose bread-crumb formula if you
watercress, or with cress and the
the backbone, as indicated at left- wish .
sliced cucumbers in sour cream on
don't worry about the tiny (calcium
page 3 5 6, or with a fish or a lobster
rich!) hairlike bones in the meat it- For 6 servings
salad ( pages 104 and 37 5).
self, which will be ground up with
the flesh in the processor. Remove the 3 pounds fresh mussels steamed in
skin by pulling the small end of the white wine (page 120)
VA RIATIO N S fish skin in one hand while sliding Choux pastry made with ½ cup
your knife against it, almost parallel water, ½ tsp salt, 2 Tbs butter, ½
Sour Cream Sauce for Hot or to your work surface, as shown at cup flour, and 2 "large" eggs
Cold Mousse right. (page 396)
The master recipe for all-purpose
For about 2 cups fish mousse, made with 1 ¼ cups
sole and ¼ cup raw scallops or
1¾ cups sour cream shrimp, and the choux pastry
Seasonings: freshly squeezed lemon rather than bread crumbs
juice, prepared horseradish,
Dijon-type mustard, salt, freshly For the sauce
ground white pepper 3 Tbs butter
Minced fresh dill or parsley ¼ cup flour
2 cups mussel-cooking liquid, heated
Mix into the cream all the ingredi- A small pinch of saffron, or ¼ tsp
ents listed and season carefully to curry powder
taste; refrigerate in a covered bowl ½ cup heavy cream
until serving.
A food processor; individual molds of
¾ -cup capacity (such as Pyrex custard
cups), heav ily buttered; a roasting pan
to hold the molds in the oven
Assembling the timbales
Preliminaries. Prepare the mussels

and reserve their juices. Prepare the
choux pastry, then prepare and chill
the mousse.
The veloute sauce . Cook the butter and

flour together for 2 minutes without
coloring. Off heat, whisk in the
mussel-cooking liquid and the saffron
or curry powder. Simmer 3 minutes,
thinning the sauce with dribbles of
cream-it should be fairly thick.
Carefully correct seasoning. Let cool,
stirring frequently to prevent a skin
from forming on the surface .
Assembling the timbales. Spread ½ cup

of the mousse evenly around the bot-
tom and sides of each mold. Spoon in
1½ tablespoons of the cold sauce,
then 2 tablespoons of mussels, adding
a~other tablespoon or so of sauce to
fill the cups to within ¼ inch of the
top. Spread a covering of mousse
over, see illustration. When are they done? When slightly Serving Suggestions for the
puffed, when the tops are softly Timbales
*Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared springy, and when they show a very
several hours ahead; refrigerate in a faint line of shrinkage from the sides These should be served as a separate
pan of ice. of the molds. Remove and let settle course, accompanied only with
10 minutes. French bread or the puff pastry fleu-
rons on page 3 9 5. And here is an op-
Preheat oven to 3 5 0°F. Arrange the Serving. Unmold onto hot plates. portunity to bring out one of your
molds in a roasting pan, pour in sim- Meanwhile turn the remaining mus- finest chardonnays, white Burgun-
mering water to come halfway up the sels into the rest of the sauce, reheat dies, or Graves.
outsides of the molds, and bake un- just to the simmer, then spoon the
covered in the middle level of the sauce and mussels over and around
preheated oven. the mousselines.
HOME-CURED FISH Preparing the salmon for its cure. Rub

your finger over the fillet, especially SPE CIAL N OTE
at the heavy portion of the large end,
to locate small bones buried in the Mustard-Horseradish Butter
flesh; pull them out with tweezers.
Dilled Salmon: Gravlaks Trim off all jagged or too-thin edges. For gravlaks, beef tartare, carpaccio,
A fast cure in slices broiled meats
Slicing the salmon. Starting at the
Fresh raw salmon cured in a macera- large end, and going almost parallel For 2/2 cup, serving 8 to 12
tion of salt, dill, and Cognac-it's to the salmon, cut long neat slices less 4 ounces ( 1 stick) soft unsalted
more delicate in taste than smoked than Vs inch thick, as though slicing butter
salmon, and it is easy to make your- smoked salmon. Arrange them in one 1 Tbs or more Dijon-type prepared
self. The traditional gravlaks is done layer on the pastry sheets. mustard
with whole sides of salmon and takes 1 tsp or more prepared horseradish
5 or 6 days, but when you cure it in Applying the cure. Sprinkle a good Seasonings: salt, freshly ground
slices it is ready within a few hours. pinch of the salt-sugar mix over each white pepper, and drops of hot
Serve gravlaks with buttered pum- of the salmon slices, then a dusting of pepper sauce
pernickel or white sandwich bread as dill; finally rub in a few drops of Co-
a fine first course or cocktail appe- gnac or brandy. Turn the slices over Cream the butter in a 2-quart bowl
tizer, or present it for lunch or as a (dry your fingers well so the salt with a wooden spoon; when light and
snack, with scrambled eggs. won't stick to them), and repeat on fluffy, beat in mustard, horseradish,
the other side. Season the flesh side of and seasonings to taste. For fish, the
For a 2 ½- to 3-pound salmon fillet the salmon skin in the same fashion. butter should have a certain authority,
Rearrange the salmon slices over the but not be overpowering.
2½- to 3-pound fillet of fresh salmon,
skin, and slip it onto a serving plat-
skin on
ter. Cover with the optional fresh
1 ¼ Tbs salt and ¾ Tbs sugar mixed
dill, then with plastic wrap. Refrig-
in a small bowl OTHER FISH
erate for several hours and the fish is
2 tsp fragrant dried dill
ready to eat, although with another
2 to 3 Tbs Cognac or good brandy
day of cure it will be even better.
Optional final decoration: sprigs of Other fish take nicely to the cure,
fresh dill too. I've used tuna, swordfish, trout,
*Ahead-of-time note: Keeps 7 to 10
days in the refrigerator. eastern bluefish, and striped bass with
great success.
Tweezers or small pliers for removing
bones; a very sharp long slicing knife; 2 Serving suggestion. As a first course,
pastry sheets to hold the salmon slices make a mustard-horseradish butter
(recipe follows). For each serving
spread the butter on large, very thin
slices of rye or pumpernickel bread.
Cover with a large slice of salmon
and decorate with a sprig of fresh
dill-or slice of cucumber. You
could serve a few slices of cucumber
on the side, and iced aquavit or a
crisp, very dry white wine like a
Sancerre or Muscadet.
JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK FIN FISH & SHELLFISH 13 1
SALT COD 2 "large" eggs beaten with a pinch of egg sauce following, or for the chow-
salt der on page 2 0.) Vigorously beat in
Salt and freshly ground white pepper the warm mashed potatoes, using the
1½ to 2 quarts very fresh frying oil mixing fork to shred the fish so that
it will make whiskers later. Beat in
New England Codfish Balls SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED.: three quarters of the egg, adding
with Egg Sauce A 2 ½-quart saucepan for soaking and driblets more if the mixture is very
poaching; a mixing fork for beating; a stiff-it must be firm enough to
Salted cod, mashed potatoes, and deep-fat fryer or 3-quart saucepan; a form. Beat in salt and pepper to taste.
egg, formed golf-ball size and frying thermometer is useful; a wire Let stand at room tern perature for ½
dropped il).to bubbling hot fresh fat skimmer hour or so; it will firm up as it cools,
until golden brown-it's a crisp and
and make for easier forming.
fragrant treat. I grew up on this be- Soaking the codfish-24 to 48 hours.
cause my New England mother had Sufficient soaking is crucial here for *Ahead-of-time note: May be made in
freshly made codfish balls almost best taste and texture; if the unsoaked advance. Cover and _refrigerate when
every other Sunday for breakfast fish is very dry .and hard, you'll cool; beat up briefly before using.
even though we lived in California. probably need 48 hours at least. Cut
She served them with bacon or sau- or chop it into ½-inch slices; wash Frying the codfish balls-shortly before
sage, and a creamy egg sauce. the codfish in cold water, and set on a serving. Heat the frying oil to 37 5°F;
They're an idea, too, for Sunday rack in a large bowl of cold water- preheat the oven to 2 0 0°F. Line a
night suppers, accompanied perhaps slicing the fish makes it soak faster, pizza tray or jelly-roll pan with sev-
with fresh spinach and buttered and the rack lifts it out of the salt that eral thicknesses of paper towels.
beets. But what dinner wine goes sinks to the bottom of the bowl. Re- Scoop up 1½-tablespoon balls of the
with codfish balls? My good books do frigerate the bowl, changing the codfish mixture with a soup spoon;
not say. Why not champagne! water several times; soak until the dislodge into the hot fat with a rub-
fish feels fresh, and tastes hardly of ber spatula, making somewhat
My mother's recipe was passed down salt. roughly shaped balls-the shape and
in the family, so they say, from our
the protruding whisker shreds of
great-great-great Duxbury aunt, *Ahead-of-time note: May be soaked codfish make for lightness and a crisp
Priscilla. It produces remarkably in advance; drain and refrigerate for coating. Fry 4 or 5 at a time for 2 to
light codfish balls because the long a day-or you may freeze it. As soon 3 minutes, or until nicely browned.
soaking takes out the preserving salt, as it is de-salted, by the way, the cod Remove with the skimmer to the
leaving tender cod that is almost like is as perishable as fresh fish. paper-lined tray, and keep warm in
fresh fish.
the oven while continuing with the
Poaching the codfish. Simmer the rest. Plan to serve as soon as pos-
MANUFACTURING NOTE: ff 48 codfish
sliced onion, peppercorns, and bay sible, with the following egg sauce.
balls are too much for you, see the
leaf for 10 minutes in 2 cups of
multi-use brandade following these
water, then add 2 more cups of water
instructions .
and the soaked fish, pouring in a
little more water if necessary to cover
For 4 cups codfish mixture, making
it. Bring to the simmer, cover the
about 4 dozen 1 ½-inch pieces
pan, and remove from heat; let stand
1-pound piece of salt cod for 10 minutes, or until you are
1 smallish onion, thinly sliced ready to use it. (Simmering or boil-
4 peppercorns ing toughens salt cod.)
1 imported bay leaf
2 cups firm plain warm mashed The codfish mixture. Drain the cod-
potatoes (dehydrated potatoes are fish, and flake it into a mixing bowl. Frying codfish balls
permissible here) (Reserve the poaching water for the
Poultry
..
Chickens, Turkeys,
Poussins, Game Hens, Geese,
Ducks, and Rabbits
Sautes, Ragouts, Fricassees,

Stews, Blanquettes,
Roasts, Broilings and Broil-Roastings,
Bonings, Debreastings, and
Re-assemblings
Since all birds roast in about the same sense, it seems to me; then you have with the birds-since beef bourgui-
manner, and simmer, saute, and stew the theory and practice for each tech- gnon in red wine is a true cousin to
in almost the same way, you'll find nique, whatever your bird happens to · coq au vin, that noted chicken stew in
them grouped together that way here, be. Actually it would make even red wine, but I have resisted carrying
for the most part. It makes more more sense to group the beasts along logic that far.
Preparation for Cooking- SAUTES, FRICASSEES,

and a Solemn Warning AND STEWS
Why be careful? Preparation de-

tails are taken up in each section, but
we must all be very careful indeed SAUTES
with raw poultry, especially chicken,
because of harmful bacteria. Bacte- Among the quickest, easiest, and
ria, including salmonella, are killed most attractive ways to do chicken is
at a temperature of 140°F-when the to saute it-meaning to brown it in a
I . Separating wing with strip of breast
chicken is still almost raw. Thus frying pan, then to season it, cover
there is no worry about cooked the pan, let it cook slowly 20 to 25
chicken as long as careful precautions minutes, and it's done. It will have
are taken during its preparation. produced some nice brown juices in
the pan, which, literally in a flash
and with a dollop of wine, you turn
into a perfect little sauce. That's pri-
How to proceed. Before you begin, mal cooking of the very best sort,
set a cutting board-dishwasher-safe and you'll be using the same system
plastic recommended-on an ample or one of its variants for veal and
spread of newspapers. Get out all the pork chops, turkey wings, and
knives, string, seasonings, and other March hares, to name a few ex- 2. Cutting through ball joint at thigh and
utensils you will be needing, amples. Before getting into the actual drumstick
including a dozen or more sheets of cooking, here are some hints on pre-
paper towels. Then unwrap the paring the chicken.
chicken at the sink, let hot water run
over it inside and out, washing the
giblets as well. Dry it in paper
towels, set it on the cutting board, Buying and preparing the
and go to work . If you want to touch chicken for sauteing
anything else but your chicken and its
utensils, wash your hands first. When How wonderfully convenient that we
you are through, place cutting board can buy what we want in the way of
and all utensils in the sink, wrap the chicken parts-all breasts, all wings, 3. Left: 2 breast halves and 2 wing/breast servings
newspaper in a plastic bag, and dump all thighs, or the whole chicken cut Ri ght: 2 drumsticks and 2 thighs
it. Wash everything to do with the into pieces for a little of each. Buying
chicken thoroughly, including by eye and guessing at appetite capac- BONE-IN BREAST WITH WING AT-
yourself, in hot soapy water. Don't ity seems the best rule for amounts, TACHED If you buy the whole breast
forget the kitchen towels-put them and I shall arbitrarily count on 2 ½ to half with wing attached, you can make
in the wash while you are cleaning up 3 pounds of assorted chicken parts two servings when you cut off the wing
the chickenry, or you'll forget them. for 4 people . A minute of simple to include the lower third of the breast
surgery on some of the parts, as in as illustrated, step 1. Then trim off the
the following illustrations, will make bony section of the lower rib cage with
for easier cooking and eating. scissors. Finally, to make a neat chic
serving of the wing, snip off the bony
nubbin protruding from the elbow,
which shows clearly in the photograph,
and fold the wing akimbo by tucking the
wing end under the shoulder.
JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK POULTRY 137
DRUMSTICKS AND THIGHS If the legs " MASTER RECIPE

and thighs are attached together, sepa-
rate them-wiggle the drumstick to f eel Sauteed Chicken
where they join at the knee, then cut
through the ball joint, step 2. You may All sautes start out this way, and fol-
wish to whack off the protruding ball lowing the master recipe are a num-
joint at the end of the drumstick; this ber of variations and additions to
will make it lie flatter for more even start you on your own course.
browning. Take a good look and feel of
the thigh; if there is st~!! some backbone For 4 servings
Turning the chicken to brown the other side
attached to one end, scrape it fre e-the 2½ to 3 pounds frying chicken parts,
thigh will then be easier to eat; it also as previously described
has a protruding bone end which you 2 to 3 Tbs clarified butter (see
may wish to chop off The thigh, by the Special Note), or olive oil, or 2
way, is one of your best buys-fine ten- Tbs butter and 1 Tbs oil
der meat and little bone. You will now Salt and freshly ground pepper
have 8 pieces, see step 3 . A big pinch of tarragon or thyme,
optional
WASHING Wash the chicken briefly
under the hot water fauc et; dry it thor- Optional deglazing sauce
oughly in paper towels . Wash all 1 Tbs minced shallots or scallions
boards, knives, and your hands in hot ½ cup chicken stock (see Special
soapy water. Basting
Note)
½ cup dry white wine or dry white
French vermouth
SPECIAL NO TE 1 or 2 Tbs butter for final sauce,
optional
Simple Chicken Stock 2 Tbs minced fresh parsley, chives,
or tarragon, optional
Chicken stock is always useful to have
on hand for use in a quick sauce or
.A. heavy-bottomed 12-inch frying pan
for soups. Why buy it when you can
or casserole about 2 inches deep with a
make your own for free, and know
tight-fitting cover; a wooden or plastic
exactly what's in it? You may wish to
spoon and fork for turning the chicken Pouring the sauce over
freeze raw bones and scraps, then
boil them up when you have collected
Browning the chicken-about 5 min-
a worthwhile group . walnut brown on all sides (see illus-
utes. Be sure the chicken is well dried
tration) . If you've a mixture of white
or it will not brown properly. Set the
To make the stock, roughly chop all meat (breasts and wings) and dark
frying pan over moderately high
bones and scraps-either cooked or (legs and thighs), remove the white
heat; add the oil and/or butter. When
raw or a combination of both-and meat to a side dish after browning: it
it is very hot but not smoking, lay in
simmer for an hour in lightly salted takes a little less time to cook than
the chicken pieces skin side down.
water to cover. Strain, degrease, and dark meat.
(Do not crowd the pan: there should
refrigerate uncovered; cover when
be a little air space between each
chilled . The stock will keep 2 to 3 Finishing the cooking. Cover the pan,
piece for proper browning; do the
days under refrigeration, or may be lower the heat to moderate, and if
chicken in 2 batches if necessary.) you've removed the white meat, cook
frozen.
Turn the chicken every 20 seconds or
the dark meat slowly (it should sizzle
so, allowing it to color a fairly even
gently) about 6 minutes, turning
Sauteed Chicken (continued) Dieting notes. Sau teed chicken is not Saute the chicken as described, and
designed for dieters, although thor- when it has 7 or 8 minutes left to
once. Then return the white meat to oughly degreasing the final juices and cook in its covered pan, spoon out the
the pan. Baste the chicken pieces with removing the chicken skin after fat (but not the juices) and strew on
the accumulated fat and juices in the sauteing will dispense with a number the piperade . Cover and finish cook-
pan; season the chicken lightly with of calories. See the fat-free Chicken ing, basting 2 or 3 times with the ac-
salt, pepper, and optional herbs. Simmered in White Wine ( page cumulated juices.
Cover the pan again and cook another 144).
6 minutes . Turn the chicken, baste
again, and continue cooking 7 to 8
minutes more, basting once again.
VARIATIONS
Cold Piperade of Chicken
When is it done? The chicken is Peel the skin off the cooked chicken
Sauteed Chicken Piperade
done when the thickest parts of the pieces, and let cool surrounded by the
With sliced green and red bell peppers
drumsticks and thighs are ·tender piperade. To serve, you might toss
when pressed, and when the juices of cooked pasta with seasonings and a
The colorful way to dress up the
any piece of chicken pricked with a little olive oil (page 367), and top
simple saute is to finish it off with
fork run clear yellow with no trace of with the chicken piperade. This
that fragrant shower of sauteed sliced
pink-it should still be juicy. makes a delightful summer meal, ac-
green and red bell peppers with on-
companied by a tossed green salad
ions, known as the piperade ( page
Deglazing sauce-3 to 4 minutes. Re- and French bread.
90). It's quick to make on the spot,
move the chicken pieces to hot plates
or have it on hand in your freezer.
or a platter. Rapidly spoon all but a
tablespoon of fat out of the saute pan.
Stir in the tablespoon of minced shal-
lots or scallions and cook for a few
seconds over high heat, stirring.
Pour in the ½ cups of chicken stock
and of wine, and boil, scraping up
coagulated juices from the bottom of
the pan; continue boiling and swirl-
ing the pan for a moment until the
liquid has boiled down to the almost
syrupy stage. Remove the pan from
heat and, if you wish, swirl in a
tablespoon or two of butter by spoon-
fuls-to smooth out and enrich the
sauce. Pour the sauce over the
chicken, strew on the optional herbs,
and serve as soon as possible.
*Ahead-of-time note: Sauteed chicken

is at its best when served almost at
once. It may be browned in advance,
but if you allow it to cool and then
reheat, it will always taste like re- Sauteed Chicken Piperade
heated precooked chicken. Sauteed
chicken is delicious cold, however.
Sauteed Chicken with Sauteed Chicken Proven~ale

SPECIAL NOTE
Braised Onions and Diced With tomatoes, garlic, and herbs
Potatoes
Provenc;ale always means "with toma- Clarified Butter
Add potatoes and onions to finish toes, garlic, and olive oil," and often
olives and other typical ingredients There is no substitute for the taste of
cooking with sauteed chicken and,
from that sunny clime. butter in good cooking, especially
besides giving all three a boost of fla-
when you are sauteing delicate foods
vor, your main course is complete ex-
Saute the chicken in olive oil, as in like chicken breasts, or fillets of sole,
cept for an accompanying fresh green
the master recipe, remove it to a side or when you are making croutons.
vegetable or a salad.
dish and spoon the fat but not the Plain butter will burn and speckle
juices out of the pan. Stir in 2 cups rapidly because of the milky residue
When the chicken in the master rec-
of ripe red tomato pulp ( page 3 57), a it contains, but when you clarify the
ipe has 7 or 8 minutes to finish cook-
sprinkling of mixed Provenc;al herbs, butter you rid it of that residue.
ing in its covered pan, spoon out
cooking fat (but not juices), and add and a couple of pureed garlic cloves.
Boil several minutes to thicken the The simple system is to melt the but-
a dozen small white-braised onions
sauce, correct seasoning, stir in sev- ter and pour the clear yellow liquid
and their cooking liquid (page 286)
eral tablespoons of dry white French off the residue.
to the pan along with 2 to 3 cups of
sauteed diced potatoes ( page 327). vermouth, and return the chicken to
the pan. Baste it with the sauce, The more thorough professional sys-
Baste with the pan juices, cover, and
cover, and simmer several minutes to tem is to cut the butter into smallish
finish cooking the chicken, basting
warm through, basting again 2 or 3 pieces for quick melting. Bring it to
several times with accumulated
times. the slow boil in a fairly roomy sauce-
juices. After removing chicken and
pan, listening and watching for sev-
accompaniments, rapidly boil down
eral minutes until its crackling and
the juices and, if you wish, swish in
bubbling almost cease, indicating the
the enrichment butter as described in SPECIAL NOTE
milky liquid has evaporated and the
the master recipe. Decorate the plat-
clarification is complete. (At this
ter or each serving with a sprinkling Accompaniments to Sauteed point watch that the butter does not
of minced fresh parsley and/or Chicken burn and darken.) Pour the clear yel-
chives.
low butter through a tea strainer into
For the simple saute, you might a preserving jar. It will turn a yel-
serve sauteed potatoes or the potato lowish white when cold and con-
galettes on page 324, plus a fresh gealed, and will keep for months in
green vegetable or the stuffed toma- the refrigerator or freezer.
toes Provenc;ale on page 3 0 6. The
saute with potatoes and onions would
need only a green vegetable or salad, VARIATIONS
while a rice or pasta dish, or just
French bread, would go with the Pi- Cold Chicken Provenfale
perade. A light red wine like a pinot
noir, zinfandel, or Beaujolais goes Peel the skin off the cooked chicken,
with sauteed chicken, or a rather and let it cool bathed in its sauce. You
fruity white such as a sauvignon might serve it surrounded with fresh
blanc or chardonnay. green beans, cooked, chilled, and
tossed with a vinaigrette dressing,
and decorate the chicken platter with
black Mediterranean olives.
Chick en Marengo
This is Napoleon's amusing and leg-

endary dish, created especially for
him, so they say, after the famous
battle. My favorite version is chicken
in its Provern;al tomato sauce sur-
rounded by deep-fried eggs on crou-
tons, ecrevisses or shrimp cooked in
the shell, black olives, and decorative
sprigs of parsley-it's a quite mar-
velous combination.
To deep -fry croutons, eggs, and shrimp.

While the chicken is cooking, heat 1
cup of olive oil in a small frying pan
until very hot but not smoking.
Lightly brown four ¾ -inch rounds
of French bread in the hot oil; set
them aside on a paper-towel-lined
baking sheet. One at a time, fry 4
very fresh eggs in the oil, and set Chicken Marengo with its French fried eggs
them aside next to the bread crou-
tons. Then add 4 large shrimp to the which accentuates the chicken flavor RAGOUTS, FRICASSEES,
hot oil and fry just a minute or two, while also imparting their subtle AND STEWS
until they curl up; sprinkle lightly aroma to the cream.
with salt and pepper, and add to the Ragouts, fricassees, and stews sim-
eggs and croutons. Before assembling While the chicken is cooking, saute mer in liquid , and that means you
the dish and serving, set for 3 to 4 in butter 2 cups of trimmed and can complete the cooking in advance
minutes in a 250°F oven to warm quartered fresh mushrooms (morel without worrying about the telltale
through . mushrooms are heavenly here! ); sea- taste of precooked and reheated
son lightly and set aside. After saute- chicken, duck , or whatever your bird
Assembling the dish. Place the eggs on ing the chicken and making the happens to be. The section starts with
the croutons and arrange around the deglazing sauce, add the mushrooms an uncomplicated and hearty ragout
chicken, interspersing them with the and cream to the pan. Boil down rap- of chicken and onions in red wine-
shrimp and a scattering of black Ni- idly for a minute or two, until the I like the rather stylish sound of ra-
c;oise olives. sauce thickens lightly, then add the gout, and shall use the term instead
chicken and baste with the sauce and of fricassee since there is no serious
mushrooms. Cover and simmer 2 to technical distinction between the two
3 minutes to warm the chicken in my book. With a few additions, as
Sauteed Chicken with through, basting several times. Taste you'll see in its following variation,
Mushrooms and Cream carefully and correct seasoning, add- the basic ragout turns itself into the
ing a little freshly squeezed lemon famous coq au vin.
Mushrooms and cream go naturally juice if you feel it needed.
with chicken, just as they do with fil-
lets of sole. Thus it must be true that
mushrooms contain their own MSG,
" MASTER RECIPE
Ragout of Chicken and

Onions in Red Wine
For 4 servings
2½ to 3 pounds frying-chicken parts

(pages 136-7)
2 Tbs butter
1 Tbs olive oil or good cooking oil
3 cups sliced onion
1 or 2 large cloves of garlic, pureed
1 imported bay leaf
¼ tsp or so thyme
1 large ripe red unpeeled tomato,
chopped, or 1/3 cup canned Italian
plum tomatoes
3 cups young red wine (zinfandel,
Macon, or Chianti type)
1 or more cups chicken stock
Beurre manie for the sauce ( 1 ½ Tbs Ragout of Chicken and Onions in Red Wine
each flour and softened butter

brown lightly. Drain in a sieve set Whisk the beurre manie ( see Special
blended to a paste)
over a bowl to remove excess fat. Note, page 143) into the sauce. It
Fresh parsley sprigs, or chopped
should be just thick enough to coat a
parsley
Simmering the chicken. Season the spoon lightly. Wash out the casserole;
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: chicken lightly with salt and pepper; return the chicken and sauce to it.
A heavy-bottomed 12-inch frying pan return it to the pan. Add the
or casserole 2 inches deep, and a cover browned onions, and the garlic, bay, *Ahead-of-time note: If you are not
for the pan ( or an electric frying pan) thyme, and tomato. Pour in the wine serving shortly, set aside uncovered.
and enough stock barely to cover the Or, for later serving, refrigerate un-
Browning the chicken-about 5 min- ingredients. Bring to the simmer; covered. Cover when chilled.
utes. Dry the chicken parts thor- cover, and simmer slowly 20 min-
oughly, and brown in hot butter and utes, or until the chicken is tender Serving. Before serving, reheat, bast-
oil, as described in detail for sauteed when pressed. ing the chicken with the sauce; sim-
chicken on page 13 7 . Remove to a mer a few minutes to rewarm nicely
side dish, leaving the fat in the pan. Finishing the dish-the sauce. Remove but not to overcook. Decorate with
the chicken to a side dish, and taste parsley and serve. See the Special
The onions. Stir the onions into the the cooking liquid very carefully for Note on the next page for suggested
pan and saute over moderate heat un- strength and seasoning. Boil it down accompaniments.
til fairly tender, then raise heat and rapidly if it needs strength, adding
seasonings as needed. Strain the sauce
into a pan, pressing juices out of in-
gredients; degrease thoroughly.
VARIATIONS Finishing the dish. Strain, degrease, Turkey Wing Ragout

and finish the sauce, also as de- With garlic and kidney beans
Coq au Vin scribed. Strew the braised onions and
Chicken in red wine with small braised sauteed mushrooms over the chicken, When you see the need for a hearty
onions, mushrooms, and lardons of pork
baste with the sauce, and simmer a budget meal of the finger-food va-
few minutes, basting, to rewarm the riety, turkey wings are a good buy
An elaboration on the far more ele-
chicken and to blend flavors. and make remarkably good eating
mentary preceding ragout, coq au vin
when served this way.
involves more hand work since you
have lardons of bacon to prepare for
SPECIAL NOTE For 6 servings
the special flavor they give to the
sauce. Then there is the traditional Ingredients for the master recipe
garnish of small braised onions and Suggested accompaniments Ragout of Chicken and Onions in
sauteed mushrooms. The combina- for a ragout of chicken Red Wine, but substitute for the
tion makes a wonderfully satisfying chicken 6 to 9 whole turkey wings
dish, and a fine one for company. Either arrange the chicken on a hot ( containing both the lower part
platter and decorate with small and the meaty upper wing-I per
For 4 servings steamed potatoes and parsley, or person may be enough)
mound it on a bed of rice or noodles. 1 whole head of large garlic cloves
½ cup ( 4 ounces) lardons-1- by¼-
You could also serve a fresh green 2 cups home-cooked or canned red
inch strips of blanched slab bacon vegetable, or follow the chicken with kidney beans and ½ cup of their
or salt pork (see Special Note)
a tossed green salad and cheese. A juices
Ingredients for the Ragout of light young red wine is recom- A handful of fresh parsley, chopped
Chicken and Onions in Red Wine mended here, presumably the same
(preceding page), minus the sliced
one you used in the dish itself. SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
onions A broiling pan for browning; a large
113 cup good brandy, optional frying pan or casserole that will hold
12 to 16 small brown-braised white all the wings comfortably in 1 layer for
onions (page 28 7) the simmering; a cover for the pan
3 cups fresh mushrooms, trimmed, SPECIAL NOTE
quartered, and sauteed (page 313) Browning the turkey wings. Cut off
To blanch bacon or salt pork and discard the wing nubbins at the
Browning and simmering the chicken. elbows. Wash the wings rapidly
Before browning the chicken, saute When you use bacon or salt pork in under the hot water faucet and dry
the blanched bacon or salt pork and cooking, you want to remove its salt thoroughly; if they are not too recal-
remove to a side dish, leaving the fat as well as its smoky flavor, which citrant, fold them akimbo by tucking
in the pan. Brown the chicken in the would permeate the rest of the food. the wing ends in back of the upper
pork fat, adding a little olive oil, if To do so, you blanch it, meaning you arms. Brush with oil, and arrange in
needed. Flame the chicken with the drop it into a saucepan of cold water a single layer in the broiling pan.
brandy, if you wish ( see Special to cover it by 2 to 3 inches, bring it Brown under the broiler, turning to
Note, page 411 )-it does give its to the boil, and simmer 5 to 8 min- color both sides nicely.
own special flavor, besides being fun utes; then drain, refresh in cold
to do. Then proceed to simmer the water, and pat dry in paper towels. The garlic. Separate the garlic cloves,
chicken in the wine, stock, tomatoes, drop them for 3 0 seconds in a sauce-
and seasoning as directed in the mas- pan of boiling water, drain and peel
ter recipe. them, and set aside.
Simmering the wings . Simmer the Rabbit Ragout-

wings with browned onions, stock, Rabbit Stew
wine, and tomato as described for the March hare in herbs and wine
ragout of chicken, adding also the
peeled garlic cloves. Simmering time Rabbit tastes much like chicken, but
will be about 40 minutes, until the it is a little meatier. In fact, most rec-
wings are tender when pierced with a ipes for chicken work well with rab-
fork. bit, and vice versa, although the
rabbit may need a little longer cook-
Adding the beans and finishing the dish. ing. In this dish, the rabbit is mari- A cut-up rabbit
Fold in the beans and ½ cup of their nated, which gives the meat added
juices; simmer 5 minutes or so, bast- flavor and tenderness; however, you
ing beans and turkey with the sauce may omit this step and add the mari- For 4 to 6 servings
in the pan. Taste carefully and cor- nade ingredients to simmer with the A 3½-pound roaster rabbit
rect seasoning; the bean juices will rabbit. As a variation in technique
have thickened the sauce nicely. Serve and to make an automatic sauce thick- For the marinade
sprinkled with chopped parsley. ener, the rabbit pieces are floured be- 1/3cup olive oil
fore being browned. 1 tsp mixed dried herbs (such as
*Ahead-of-time note: Like the master Italian seasoning)
ragout of chicken, this dish may be 3 large cloves of garlic, pureed
cooked ahead and reheated. 1½ Tbs soy sauce
The minced zest ( yellow part of
peel) and strained juice of 1
lemon
SPECIAL NOTE
10 grinds of fresh pepper
½ cup finely minced onion
Beurre Manie obvious to you that it needs thicken-
% cup finely sliced carrot
Flour-butter paste: a quick sauce ing so that it will enrobe the ingredi-
thickener ents it accompanies. Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 cup flour in a plate
Beurre manie-meaning literally Proceed as follows: for each cup of Olive oil for browning the rabbit
butter and flour worked to a paste sauce, mash 1 tablespoon of butter to 1 cup sliced onions
with your impeccably clean fingers- a smooth paste with 1 tablespoon of 2 cups dry white French vermouth
is the traditional sauce thickener for flour, using a rubber spatula if you or dry white wine
informal stews such as our chicken wish. Remove the sauce from heat, 2 fairly large ripe red tomatoes,
and onions in red wine, and its varia- whisk in the butter-flour paste, and peeled, seeded, and juiced (page
tion, coq au vin, as well as its cousin, when thoroughly absorbed, bring 357), or a 1 ½-cup mixture of
boeuf bourguignon. briefly to the boil and the sauce will fresh tomato pulp and strained
thicken-if not thick enough, repeat canned Italian plum tomatoes
After the sauce has been degreased, the process with, say, ½ tablespoon 1 cup or so chicken broth
reduced, and seasoned, it becomes each of flour and butter.
A large bowl or enameled casserole for
marinating the rabbit; a rack for drain-
ing it; a roomy chicken fryer or casse-
role 2 ½ to 3 inches deep with cover ( or
an electric frying pan) for the cooking
Rabbit Ragout (continued) when pierced with the sharp prongs " MASTER RECIPE
of a kitchen fork. The sauce will be
Preparing the rabbit. Store-bought lightly thickened; taste it carefully Chicken Simmered in White
ready-cut rabbit may look like this- and correct seasoning. Wine
or you can cut it yourself this way. At With aromatic vegetables
the lower left are the leg-thighs, *Ahead-of-time note: May be sim-
which you can separate at the knee mered ahead and reheated, as de- For 4 to 6 servings
joint. In the center is the loin, which scribed for the master ragout of
The vegetables, cut into ]½-inch
you may chop crosswise into 2 pieces. chicken on page 141 .
julienne
At the upper right are the forelegs
with ribs- the pieces with the most 2 medium carrots, trimmed and
Serving and accompaniments for Rabbit
bone and the least meat. peeled
Ragout. Serve the rabbit from its cas-
The tender part of 2 medium leeks,
serole, or arrange it on a hot platter.
The marinade. Whisk the marinade cleaned and washed
Noodles or rice would go nicely,
ingredients together in a large bowl, 4 to 6 tender celery stalks, trimmed
fresh peas or broccoli , and a light red
and turn the rabbit pieces in it. and washed
wine like a pinot noir, or a white sau-
Cover and refrigerate for 24 to 48 vignon or chardonnay. Seasonings: salt and freshly ground
hours, basting and turning the rabbit pepper, ¼ tsp dried tarragon, 1
3 or 4 times a day. When you are imported bay leaf
ready to proceed, drain the rabbit on 3½ pounds cut-up frying chicken ( 1
a rack, scraping off and saving the STEWS or 2 pieces per serving, as
marinade. Dry the rabbit in paper described on page 136)
towels.
A
1 ½ cups dry white French vermouth
chicken in every pot-in the or dry white wine
B rowning . The moment before days of yore that meant About 1 ½ cups clear chicken broth
·browning them, dredge the rabbit stewed chicken, a whole stewed
pieces in flour. Film the frying pan chicken, certainly the easiest way of SPECIAL EQUIPM ENT SU GGESTED:
or casserole with 1/16 inch of oil, and, all to cook anything. But how infi- A covered flam ep roof casserole, chicken
when very hot but not smoking, nitely easier and faster it is for us to- fryer, or electric f rying pan that w ill
brown the rabbit nicely on all sides day, when, rather than buyi ng a hold the chicken and vegetables
and remove to a side dish. Drain the whole chicken for the pot, we can comfo rtably
vegetables out of the marinade, and stew just its chosen parts.
saute them along with the sliced on- Cooking the chicken. Toss the vege-
ions for 5 minutes or so in the oil left The following is my all-time favor- tables with salt, pepper, tarragon,
in the pan . Pour in the vermouth or ite. It's quick, uncomplicated, and, and bay leaf; strew a third of them in
wine and swish about, to incorporate with its wine and aromatic flavorings, the bottom of the casserole. Season
any rabbit-browning bits into the liq- it makes such delicious eating you the chicken pieces with salt and pep-
uid . Arrange the rabbit pieces in the cannot believe that this heaven-sent per, and bury them in layers with the
pan, add the tomatoes, the marinade dish is bona-fide strict diet food. In rest of the vegetables. Pour in the
liquid, and enough chicken broth al- its master recipe, it is certainly that. wine and enough chicken broth
most to cover the rabbit. However, its variations, which in- barely to cover the chicken. Bring to
clude turkey as well, run the gamut the simmer, cover, and simmer
Final cooking-about 1 hour. Bring to from aspic, to pot pie, Belgian water- slowly for 25 to 30 minutes, or until
the simmer on top of the stove, zooi, and even blanquettes of both the chicken is done (the legs and
cover, and simmer slowly, basting oc- chicken and turkey. thighs are tender when pressed, and
casionally with the cooking liquid,
until the rabbit pieces are tender
For 4 to 6 servings
The preceding chicken simmered in

wme
Unflavored gelatin (1 Tbs per each 2
cups of cooking liquid)
¼ to 1/3 cup of dry French vermouth
or dry white wine

A serving bow l or casserole deep enough
to submerge the chicken pieces in their
jelly
The chicken. After the chicken has

steeped in its cooking liquid, pour
the contents through a large sieve set
over a 2-quart saucepan. Peel off and
discard the chicken skin. Arrange the
pieces closely together in the serving
bowl, decorate with the vegetable ju-
lienne, cover, and refrigerate.
Assembling chicken with aromatic vegetables
The aspic jelly. Let the gelatin soften

in a small bowl with the wine-5
their juices run clear with no trace of minutes or so. Thoroughly degrease
rosy color). Let the chicken steep in the cooking liquid . (You'll want 2 ½
its cooking liquid for 10 to 15 min- to 3 cups-add a little chicken stock,
utes before proceeding-it will pick if needed. ) Taste it carefully and cor-
up flavor. Degrease the liquid, re- rect seasoning. Blend in the softened
move the bay leaf, and you may wish gelatin and heat, stirring, to dissolve
to peel the skin off the chicken the gelatin completely. Pour through
pieces. a tea strainer into another saucepan to
clarify it somewhat. When the
*Ahead-of-time note: May be cooked chicken has chilled, stir the aspic
Jellied chicken, home-style version over a bowl of ice cubes and water
even a day in advance, and reheated.
for several minutes until cold and al-
Accompaniments-the dieters' delight. most syrupy. Pour it over the
A Simple Chicken in Aspic chicken. Cover and chill several
Serve the chicken and vegetable ju-
Jellied chicken
lienne over a bed of steamed rice hours , or until serving time.
basted with the chicken juices. You
In this home-style arrangement, the
might accompany this with fresh chicken pieces are arranged in a deep
green beans or asparagus tips. A serving bowl, the aromatic cooking
light white wine like a dry riesling
liquid is thoroughly degreased,
would go nicely. mixed with gelatin, cooled, and
poured over the chicken. It is chilled
until set, and served directly from
the bowl.
Spooning aspic over chilled pieces
and, before placing it on the chicken,

dip it in almost-set aspic so that it
will adhere. Chill 10 minutes. Spoon
a coating of aspic over the decora-
tions, chill, and repeat with 2 or 3
more coatings.
Serving suggestion. Pour ½ inch of as-

pic into a pan and chill 20 minutes,
Dressy chicken in aspic surrounding chicken liver mousse or until set. You may then cut it into
shapes. Or, as shown in the illustra-
tion here, chop it to line a chilled
VARIATION The chicken. Peel the skin off the platter. Here decorated pieces of
wine-poached chicken parts, trim boneless chicken breast surround a
A More Formal Presentation them neatly, if needed, arrange them chicken liver mousse-for which the
A dressy chicken in aspic on a rack over a tray, and chill in the recipe follows .
refrigerator.
For an elegant presentation, clarify
the wine-flavored cooking stock- The first aspic coatings. Have the main
meaning that you turn it clear and quantity of aspic in a saucepan. Pour Chicken Liver Mousse
sparkling, and add gelatin, as de- a cup of it into a small pan and set in
scribed on page 15. Then you spoon a bowl of ice cubes and water to chill Chicken liver mousse goes nicely
it over the chicken, affixing colorful until the aspic is cold and almost set. with chicken in aspic, and this is a
decorations as you go. If you enjoy Spoon a coat or two of almost-set as- fine example. Sauteed chicken livers
fussing and decorating, aspics are fun pic over the chicken parts (the tray and onions are pureed with wine, sea-
to make-all you need is room in the catches dribbles); chill 10 minutes, sonings, aspic, butter, and cottage
refrigerator, and time for the succes- and repeat with another coating or cheese-you'll think you're eating
sive coatings of aspic to set. two-rewarming and rechilling the foie gras!
aspic in the small pan as necessary.
AMOUNTS. I inevitably find that I For about 4 cups
want twice as much aspic as I thought I The decorations. Decorations may be
needed, and for 1 chicken 6 to 8 cups 1 Tbs unflavored gelatin
anything you choose-here we have ¾ cup rich chicken stock (page 4)
should be more than ample. You can black olives and red pimiento while
freeze leftover aspic, anyway. ¼ cup minced onion
the blanched green of scallions makes 6 ounces (1 ½ sticks) unsalted butter
the swirling lines. Chill the decora- 3 cups (1 ½ pounds) chicken livers
tions on a plate. Skewer each piece
Seasonings: salt, freshly ground d'oeuvre with toast or crackers; or Blanquette of Chicken in
pepper, and a pinch of dried line a bowl with plastic wrap, pack in White Wine Sauce
tarragon the mousse, and chill several hours
1/3 cup Sercial Madeira or dry Port
(or until set), then unmold, remove Blanquette is simply a dressy term
wme the plastic, and decorate the surface meaning a creamed something, the
1 cup cottage cheese as shown. most famous being a blanquette of
veal, which is done the same way as
the following chicken.
A 10-inch no-stick frying pan; a food
processor or electric blender Waterzooi of Chicken For 4 to 6 servings
Preliminary. Blend the gelatin into This traditional Belgian dish is our The master recipe for Chicken
the chicken stock and let soften while same chicken simmered in white Simmered in White Wine (page
sauteing the chicken livers. wine with a julienne of vegetables, 144)
but its aromatic broth is turned into a 4 Tbs butter
The chicken livers. Saute the onion delicate sauce. To make it a true wa- 5 Tbs flour
slowly 8 to 10 minutes in 4 table- terzooi, serve it in deep soup plates. ½ cup, more or less, heavy cream
spoons of the butter until tender and Salt and freshly ground white pepper
translucent .. Add the chicken livers, For 4 to 6 servings Drops of freshly squeezed lemon
raise heat, and saute 2 minutes more, juice
The master recipe for Chicken
tossing the pan by its handle, until
Simmered in White Wine The white wine sauce. The chicken is
they are lightly springy when
pressed-they should remain rosy in- 6 egg yolks cooked, the chicken pieces are peeled,
side. Season with salt, pepper, and ½ cup heavy cream and the cooking liquid has been
tarragon; pour in the wine and boil ½ Tbs cornstarch, optional anti- strained and thoroughly degreased.
3 0 seconds. Turn the livers into a curdling insurance Cook the butter and flour together in
bowl, leaving the liquid in the pan. 3 Tbs minced fresh parsley a 2 ½-quart saucepan for 2 minutes
without coloring; off heat, whisk in
The gelatined flavor base. Boil down The chicken is cooked, the skin re- the hot cooking liquid; season and
the cooking liquid by half, pour in moved, and the broth has been simmer 3 minutes-full details on
the gelatined chicken stock, and sim- strained and degreased. For the page 272. Thin out the sauce with
mer a moment to dissolve the gelatin sauce, whisk the yolks and cream in a dribbles of cream-it should be thick
completely, then add the remaining mixing bowl with the optional corn- enough to coat a spoon nicely. Taste
butter, cut into smallish pieces, to starch to blend; gradually whisk in very carefully and correct seasoning,
melt. the hot cooking broth. Pour it over adding drops of lemon juice as you
the chicken. think them needed. Pour the sauce
Pureeing the livers. Puree the cottage over the chicken and its julienne of
cheese in the processor or blender Serving. A few minutes before serv- vegetables.
with the gelatined flavor base, then ing, set the casserole over moderate
add and puree the sauteed livers and heat and swirl slowly until the sauce *Ahead-of-time note: May be com-
onion. Taste carefully and correct heats through and thi.ckens-do not pleted in advance to this point.
seasoning. If you wish a very smooth rush things, and do not let it come to
mixture, force the puree through a the simmer or you will curdle the Finishing the blanquette. Cover and
sieve. egg yolks. Ladle chicken, sauce, and bring to the simmer for several min-
vegetables into large soup plates, utes, basting frequently, to reheat and
Serving. Either turn it into a decora- sprinkling each serving with parsley. blend flavors.
tive bowl and pass as an hors Serve with boiled potatoes, good
French bread, or the gnocchi on page (continued)
403.
Blanquette of Chicken (continued) SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:

A 4-quart pan or casserole for simmer-
Accompaniments to a blanquette of ing the turkey; a vegetable steamer set in
chicken. Serve the chicken on a bed of a covered pan
rice or noodles, and accompany with
a fresh green vegetable like broccoli Preliminaries. Peel off and discard the
florets or asparagus tips. A fine white turkey skin. If you are using a whole
wine like a chardonnay or Burgundy breast, remove the meat from the
is the choice here. breast bones ( use the bones for your
stock, page 4), and cut the meat into
Chicken Pot Pie
large serving pieces.
VARIATIONS
Simmering the turkey. Place the turkey Chicken or Turkey Pot Pies
Turkey Blanquette meat in the casserole, then pour in
the wine and enough stock or broth Use the recipe for either chicken or
Turkey meat is fine in a stew; its tex- barely to cover the turkey. Bring to turkey blanquette, making the sauce
ture is more solid than chicken, so the simmer, and skim off gray scum fairly thick. Arrange the blanquette
that it holds up nicely when sim- that will continue to rise for 5 min- in individual baking dishes about 2 ½
mered. However, since the pieces are utes or so. Salt lightly as necessary, inches deep and 5 inches across; and
so much larger than chicken, a ju- cover partially, and simmer 1¼ to let cool. Cut disks of pastry dough
lienne of vegetables would be lost; I 1½ hours, until the turkey is ten- ( page 3 8 1) or of puff pastry ( page
suggest instead a garnish of mush- der-eat a bit as a test. 389) ¼ inch thick and ½ inch larger
rooms, whole small onions, and car- around than the rims of the dishes.
rots that finish with the blanquette. The vegetable garnish. While the tur- Brush the rims with cold water and
key is cooking, steam the carrots for press on the disks. Pierce a ¼ -inch
For 8 servings 10 to 15 minutes, or until just ten- vent hole in the top of each pastry,
der. Pierce a cross in the root ends of paint with water, and affix decorative
5 to 6 pounds bone-in raw turkey the onions, and simmer in a covered cut-outs.
breast and/or thighs pan in an inch of the turkey-cooking
3 cups dry white wine or French liquid 25 minutes or so, until the on- Just before baking, paint with egg
vermouth ions are tender but still hold their glaze ( 1 egg beaten with 1 teaspoon
3 cups turkey stock or chicken broth shape; add the mushrooms to the on- of water) .. Bake in the middle level of
Salt and freshly ground white pepper ions the last 2 to 3 minutes of cooking. a preheated 3 7 5°F oven 3 5 to 40
Drops of freshly squeezed lemon
minutes, or until the filling is bub-
juice Assembling turkey and vegetables. bling up into the vent holes.
The vegetable garnish: Drain the turkey- and onion-cooking
liquids into a saucepan. Arrange the
16 smallish carrots, trimmed and
turkey in the casserole along with the
peeled
vegetables. Make the white wine
24 small white onions about 1 inch
sauce using the cooking liquids, and
in diameter, peeled
spoon itovertheturkeyand
1 quart (10 ounces or so) fresh
vegetables.
mushrooms, trimmed and
quartered
Serving. Shortly before serving,
3 to 4 cups white wine blanquette cover and simmer several minutes
sauce, made following the over moderate heat, basting fre-
directions for the·preceding quently with the sauce. Decorate with
chicken blanquette parsley sprigs.
Decoration: fresh parsley
CHICKEN BREASTS
I t's hard to believe that chicken

breasts used to be such a supreme
luxury that they were served under a
glass bell only to the very rich in-
deed. Now, while breasts are the
most expensive of the chicken parts,
they are hardly out of sight, particu-
I. Scraping meat off sides of breastbone 3. Flattening the breast meat
larly when you need a quick main
course for special occasions.
Boning. Whether you have bone-in Trimming. Cut any bits of fat and
breast halves or whole breasts, start jagged edges off the meat. Placing it
by pulling off the covering skin. For flat on your work surface, lay the side
PREPARING CHICKEN whole breasts, cut down each side of of a large knife on it and pound with
BREASTS FOR COOKING the ridge of the breastbone. Then, your fist to flatten the breast slightly,
for either whole or half breasts, step 3.
In the following recipes, you'll find scrape your knife down the side of
breasts with skin and wings attached the breastbone and/or the rib cage to The breasts are now ready to· cook.
as well as boned and skinned breast remove meat from bone (see Wrap and refrigerate them if you are
halves, the latter of which you can, of illustration, step I). If the wing is not proceeding shortly.
course, buy ready to cook. You'll save attached, cut through its ball joint to
considerable money, however, if you remove it from the shoulder, and to
do them yourself-it's about the easi- detach it from the meat.
est boning job there is.
SPECIAL NOTE
Crumbed chicken breasts

sauteed in slices
For a quick snack of a meal, and for

a change, cut the chicken breasts into
slices crosswise, give them a crisp 2. Pulling out white tendon
coating of fresh bread crumbs, and
saute them in clarified butter. See the
The white tend on. The breast
directions for crumbing and sauteing
meat is composed of two long flaps.
on page 99. They get their name be-
On the underside of the smaller flap
cause at first glance they might be
is a white tendon running two-thirds
those tiny whole deep-fried fish we
its length; you should remove it
know as whitebait and the French call
because it tends to draw the meat out
gou;ons.
of shape during cooking, step 2. Cut
½ inch along two sides of its exposed
end, grab the end with a towel and
pull the tendon out, scraping it free
against your knife.
Chicken Breasts Poached

in Butter
Here is a lovely longer method,

where the chicken breasts poach
slowly in butter in a covered casse-
role. Do them this way when you
want a sauce with your chicken.
For 4 serv ings

I . Dredging in flour 2 . Brown butter going over chicken breasts
4 boneless and skinless breast halves

clarified butter, and, when very hot from frying chickens, prepared as
Chicken Breasts Meuniere:
but not burning, lay in the chicken previously described
Sauteed in Butter Salt and freshly ground pepper
breasts. Saute 1 minute on one side
' Drops of freshly squeezed lemon
Fast and delicious, and one of the turn, and saute on the other side-
the meat is done when just springy to juice
best ways to do chicken breasts-be
the touch. Remove it to hot plates: A pinch of tarragon
prepared to work quickly for this
4 Tbs butter
one.
Optional sauce. Swish the fresh butter Chopped fresh parsley
For 4 servings in the pan, and heat a moment until

it turns a light brown. Squeeze drops
4 boneless and skinless breast halves A heavy covered flam eproof casserole
of lemon juice over the chicken, pour
from frying chickens prepared as just large enough to hold the breasts
on the hot butter, step 2, sprinkle
previously described comfortably in one layer; a round of
with parsley, and serve at once.
Salt and freshly ground pepper wax paper to cover the breasts
1 cup flour in a plate To accompany Chicken Breasts Meu-
2 to 3 Tbs clarified butter (page 139) Poaching the breasts. Preheat the oven
niere. Try baked tomatoes and fresh
to 400°F. Season the breasts lightly
Optional lemon-butter sauce buttered spinach or broccoli; the sau-
with salt, pepper, lemon juice, and
teed potatoes on page 3 2 7 would also
2 Tbs butter tarragon. Heat the butter to bubbling
be welcome , as would a light red
½ lemon in the casserole on top of the stove;
wine like a pinot noir or Beaujolais.
2 Tbs minced fresh parsley roll the breasts in the butter and lay
the wax paper over them. Cover the
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: hot casserole and set in the middle
A heavy 10-inch frying pan, no-stick level of the preheated oven for 6 to 8
recommended; hot plates or a platter minutes , or until the meat is lightly
springy when pressed with your fin-
Season the breasts lightly with salt ger. Remove them to a side dish.
and pepper. The moment before
sauteing, dredge them in flour, step Serv ing. You may serve them simply,
1, and shake off excess. Set the pouring the butter sauce over the
frying pan over high heat, add the breasts , and decorating with a
sprinkle of parsley. See also the two
following variations , just to give
yourself an idea of what else you can
do.
VARIATIONS
Mushrooms and Cream
.Remove the poached chicken breasts

from the casserole to a hot plate and
cover them. Stir a tablespoon of
minced shallots into the poaching
butter and set over moderately high
heat. When bubbling, toss in a cup
or so of sliced fresh mushrooms and
saute 2 minutes. Pour in ½ cup of
heavy cream and boil, folding cream
and mushrooms together, until the
sauce has thickened lightly. Taste
carefully for seasoning, and add a
few drops of freshly squeezed lemon
juice. Fold in a tablespoon of minced
fresh parsley and/or chives or tarra-
gon; spoon the sauce and mushrooms
over the chicken.
To accompany chicken breasts in mush-

rooms and cream. Lay the chicken
breasts over a bed of noodles or
steamed rice, and accompany with a
fresh green vegetable like asparagus
tips, spinach, or broccoli flowerettes.
A great white wine, chardonnay or
Burgundy, would be a perfect choice.
Chicken Breasts C hasseur

With tomatoes and mushrooms
Upper right: Stuffed chicken legs and breasts; Lower right: Winged Victory; Left: Chicken Breasts Chasseur
After removing the poached breasts

from the casserole, set it over moder- saute 5 to 6 minutes, until the onions Suggested accompaniments to c1icken
ately high heat and add 2 cups of are tender. Then add 1½ cups of breasts chasseur. Steamed rice would
quartered fresh mushrooms. Saute fresh tomato pulp ( page 3 57) and stir go nicely here, or just French bread,
for 1 minute, tossing, then drain and over high heat for a minute or two to plus a fresh green vegetable and
scrape over the chicken breasts, leav- evaporate juices and thicken slightly. either a young red wine or a strong
ing the butter in the casserole. Stir ¼ Taste and correct seasoning. Fold in white like a sauvignon.
cup o(thinly sliced onion~, a big the chicken and mushrooms, basting
pinch of thyme, and 1 large dove of and simmering a moment just to re-
pureed garlic into the casserole, and heat the chicken but not to overcook
it.
STUFFED CHICKEN SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: Baking-30 to 40 minutes at 375°F.

BREASTS A small sharp knife for boning; a but- Bake in the upper third level of the
tered baking dish ( or 2 dishes) that will preheated oven, basting with accu-
Kiev with its famous spurt of butter hold the breasts comfortably in one layer mulated juices once or twice.
is not the only stuffed chicken breast;
here are others. The stuffing. Heat the butter in a When is it done? The chicken is done
small saucepan, stir in the vegetables when the meat is lightly springy to
and ham, and saute about 10 min- the touch and the juices run clear.
utes, stirring and adding seasonings
to taste. The vegetables should be Remove to a hot platter or side dish,
perfectly tender but not browned. Set cover, and keep warm the few min-
aside to cool. utes it takes to make the sauce.
Preparing the breasts. Each breast half Sauce and serving. Skim fat off cook-
consists of all or part of the breast- ing juices and pour the juices into a
bone and the rib cage on which the small pan; boil rapidly for a few
breast meat rests, plus the wing, minutes, until reduced almost to a
Chicken breast ready for stuffing
which is attached to the shoulder. syrup. Swirl in a tablespoon or two
Being careful to keep the skin whole, of butter to give a light liaison, and
scrape and pull it from the breast pour over the chicken breasts.
meat, but leave it attached to the
shoulder. Now scrape the breast meat Suggested accompaniments: potato ga-
from the breastbone and ribs, cutting lettes, roasted tomatoes, and a smooth
through the ball joint of the wing but white wine-a chardonnay.
keeping the wing attached to the
breast. (This is far easier than it
sounds, as you will see.
Chicken Breast Ballottines
Stuffed chicken breasts ready for baking Here is the boned breast loosened Stuffed whole chicken breasts
from its skin, but still attached to the
wing. Lightly dust the meat with salt In this recipe you remove the bones
and pepper, and it is ready for from each side of the breast but leave
Winged Victory stuffing. the breast halves attached under the
skin, which is folded around to en-
An aromatic stuffing under the skin Lay the breast skin side down, lift up close meat and stuffing. The neat sau-
the meat, and spoon a portion of the sage shapes are then baked and sliced
For 6 servings stuffing on the skin, as shown. Fold for serving- making an attractive
the meat down onto the stuffing, and dish either hot or cold.
The stuffing
fold the skin around to enclose it
2 Tbs butter partially. For 6 to 8 servings
1/3 cup each: finely diced carrots,
onions, and celery 3 whole chicken breasts, minus
Arrange the breasts skin side up in a
1/3 cup finely diced boiled ham wings
buttered dish, as you see them here.
About 1 cup sweet Italian sausage
6 bone-in chicken breast halves, Brush on melted butter, and season
stuffing (see Special Note, page
wings attached lightly with salt and pepper.
155)
Seasonings: salt, pepper, tarragon 1 to 2 Tbs melted butter
2 to 3 Tbs butter (1 Tbs or so melted *Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared
butter for basting, 1 Tbs or so for in advance to this point; cover and SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
sauce enrichment) refrigerate. 3-inch steel turkey skewers, white string
JULIA CHILD THEW A Y TO COOK POULTRY 15 3
I . Whole wingless breast, left

Boned whole breast, right
2. Left: Stuffing on flesh side of breast

Right : Skin skewered over stuffed breast
3. Removing skewers before arranging breasts on

Top: Boned and stuffed breasts and legs; Bottom : Sliced, boned, and stuffed breast
platter
Preparing the breasts. The whole now have the two breast halves at- *Ahead-of-time note: The recipe may
wingless breast and the boned whole tached to the skin, as shown at right be completed to this point a day in
breast are illustrated, step 1. Aim to in the photograph. advance; cover and refrigerate.
keep the skin intact during the fol-
lowing operations. Scrape flesh from Stuffing and trussing. Step 2 shows the Baking and serving-about I hour at
the bone on one side of the breast, boned double breast, at left; it is 350°F. Bake the chicken and make
going up to but not over the ridge of spread out skin side down, with 3 to the sauce as described for the preced-
the breastbone. Repeat on the other 4 tablespoons of stuffing placed down ing Winged Victory. Remove the
side. Then lift up the carcass and the center. Skewer it closed, winding skewers and arrange on a platter, step
scrape close against the ridge of the cotton string around the skewers, as 3. To serve, cut the chicken into ½-
breastbone to release the carcass. You you see here on the right. inch slices, like a sausage.
VARIATION BROILING, BROIL-

ROASTING, AND
Stuffed Ch ick en Legs BUTTERFLYING
Chicken legs may also be boned and

stuffed, and if you include the thigh,
you have more of a serving. Scrape
flesh from bone starting at the hip
end of the thigh and coming three
N ext to stewing, broiling is
certainly the simplest way to
cook poultry, and one of the most sat-
isfactory because of its appetizing
quarters of the way down the length
aroma, its crisp brown skin, and its Slitting skin to insert drumstick
of the drumstick. Chop off the bone
juicy meat. It beats roasting, too, in
there, leaving about 1 inch of the
many ways-not the least of them
drumstick end, so the leg will look stick firmly up under the armpit to
being that a chicken will broil in half
like a leg. Push the stuffing down loosen the joint; then pull it down
the time it takes to roast. This applies
into the drumstick, spread more into and insert the tip of the drumstick
not only to poussins, game hens, and
the thigh, then truss the meat closed. through the skin slit. The leg will be
young broiling chickens but to large
Bake and serve as described for the held in place as shown at the left in
roasters and even to turkeys. In the
chicken breasts. the photo.
case of the larger birds, you use a
combination of broiling to brown the
two sides and seal in the juices, and For 4 servings
roasting to finish it. A 3-pound broiler-fryer chicken,
butterflied as described in the
preceding paragraph
2 Tbs melted butter mixed with 1 tsp
. . MASTER RECIPE
olive oil or cooking oil
Broiled Butterflied Chicken A pinch of thyme, tarragon, or
mixed herbs, optional
Of course you can broil a half
Boning the leg-thigh chicken or chicken in parts, but when Optional deglazing sauce
you want a handsome presentation at 1 Tbs finely minced shallot or
the table, butterflying is the way to scallion
go. ½ cup chicken stock and/or dry
white wine or French vermouth
To butterfly a chicken. First remove 1 to 2 Tbs butter for enrichment,
the backbone by cutting down close optional
to it on each side with a heavy knife
or sturdy shears. Spread the chicken SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
skin side up on your work surface A stout knife and/ or shears for prepar-
and bang the breast with your fist to ing the chicken; a basting brush; a bak-
break the collarbones and some of the ing dish about 1 inch deep ( w ithout
ribs; this flattens the chicken. Cut off rack) that w ill just hold the butterflied
the little nubbins at the wing elbows, chicken easily
and fold the wings akimbo by tuck-
iug the wing ends behind the shoul- Broiling-25 to 30 minutes. Preheat
ders. Then make a slit in the skin at the broiler. Brush the chicken all
either side of the breast tip, see illus- over with some of the butter and oil.
tration. Push the knee of the drum- Arrange it skin side down in the bak-
JULIA CHILD THEW A Y TO COOK POULTRY 15 5
ing dish, and set it so the surface of

the flesh is about 5 inches from the SPECIAL NOTE
hot broiler element. After 5 minutes,

brush the flesh, which should just be Sweet Italian Sausage,
starting to brown, with the butter Parsley, and Crumb Stuffing
and oil. Baste again in 5 minutes-
use the juices in the pan when the For about 1 cup of stuffing ( used for 3
butter mixture is gone. Broil another stuffed boned whole chicken breasts)
5 minutes, then sprinkle lightly with
1 sweet Italian sausage
salt, pepper, and optional herbs.
1 Tbs butter Assembling game hens on wild rice croutons
Turn the chicken skin side up. Broil
2 cups minced onion
and baste 15 minutes or so more.
1 cup crumbs from fresh homemade
type white bread
When is it done? The chicken is SPECIAL NOTE
½ cup minced fresh parsley
nearly done when brown juices begin
¼ cup sour cream
to appear in the pan. It is definitely Croutons of Wild Rice
done when the drumsticks feel ten-
der, and, when the thickest part is Serve these by themselves to garnish
Prick the sausage in several places
pricked with the sharp tines of a a platter, or use them as a base for
with a pin, place in a small covered
kitchen fork, the juices run clear yel- small roast or broiled birds.
frying pan with ¼ inch of water, and
low. Do not overcook. steam 5 minutes. Drain. Peel off the
For 6 servings
skin, chop the sausage, and saute sev-
Sauce . Remove the chicken to a hot 6 slices of homemade type white
eral minutes in the tablespoon of but-
µlatter; cover to keep warm the few bread
ter to brown lightly. Scoop into a
minutes required for the optional 1 egg
mixing bowl, leaving the fat in the
sauce . Skim fat off the cooking pan. In it saute the onion slowly for 6 1/3 to 1 cup grated Swiss cheese
juices, stir in the chopped shallot or to 8 minutes. When tender, add to 2 cups braised wild rice (page 330)
scallion, and saute a moment on top the sausage. Blend in the remaining
of the stove. Add the liquid and boil ingredients and season carefully to Trim the bread into ovals about the
rapidly, scraping into it any coagu- size of the game hen halves; saute to
taste.
lated cooking juices. When reduced brown lightly in clarified butter
almost to a syrup, swirl in the butter. (these are now, officially, croutons).
Pour the sauce over the chicken. Beat the egg and ½ cup of the cheese
drumsticks, 2 thighs, 2 wings with a into the wild rice, and mound the
S erving. To carve, cut straight down breast strip, and 2 breast sections- rice on the croutons.
one side of the breastbone to separate everyone has a little selection of both
the chicken in two lengthwise. Grab dark and light. If these are to be served as a separate
under one of the knees with your garnish, sprinkle the tops with the
fork to lift it up , slit the skin front Suggested accompaniment to broiled remaining grated cheese and brown
and back, and bend the knee back at chicken: You could serve broiled to- lightly under the broiler before
right angles to break open the joint at matoes, sauteed potatoes, and a green servmg.
the small of the back. Then cut vegetable, or be more elaborate with
through the ball joint to separate the an eggplant dish such as the souffie
thigh from the carcass. Separate on page 2 92, or the ratatouille on
drumsticks from thighs at the knee page 3 17. Another idea is the hot
joints. Remove the wings along with corn salad on page 3 7 6. For wine,
a lengthwise strip of meat from the either a sturdy white wine like a
lower third of the breast, to make chardonnay or sauvignon, or a light
meaningful servings. You now have 2 red such as a pinot noir or Beaujolais.
Deviled Chicken: With

Mustard Coating
The chicken is broiled until almost

done, then coated with mustard,
herbs, and fresh bread crumbs for a
crisp brown finish.
For 8 servings
2 butterflied chickens
The mustard and herb coating

The cooking juices from the chicken
6 Tbs Dijon-style prepared mustard
3½ Tbs finely minced shallot or
scallion
½ tsp tarragon or mixed herbs
4 drops of hot pepper sauce
2 cups crumbs from fresh home-
made type white bread
The chickens. Follow the preceding

recipe, but broil the 2 chickens only
10 rather than 15 minutes on the sec-
ond (skin) side.
Mustard and herb coating. Drain the

fat and juices out of the broiling pan
into a small bowl; skim off and dis-
card all but 2 tablespoons of fat from
the top of the juices. Blend the pre-
pared mustard in another bowl with
the minced shallot or scallion, herbs,
and hot pepper sauce. Beat up the re-
maining juices; blend half of them
Deviled chicken ready for carving
into the mustard. Spread the mustard
over the top (skin side) of the chick-
ens (see illustration), then pat on a Final cooking and serving. Roast in the Grilling note. The crumb coating
coating of crumbs. Baste with the re- upper third level of a 400°F oven for does not work for barbecuing since it
mammg JU1ces . 10 to 12 minutes (20 minutes if will fall off and burn when you turn
cooking is delayed). the chicken. However, you can use
Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared just the mustard and herb mixture,
somewhat ahead to this point; set When is it done? The chicken is basted on during the last few minutes
aside at room temperature . done when the drumsticks are tender of cooking (beat a few tablespoons of
if pressed , and the crumbs should oil into the mustard to take the place
brown nicely. of chicken fat).
Cornish Game Hens Split

and Broiled with Cheese
Croutons of wild rice
For 6 servings
3 game hens
About ½ cup clarified butter (page
139)
Spreading on the mustard coating 6 wild rice croutons (see Special
Note, page 155)
VARIATION
4½ Tbs grated Swiss cheese
Deviled Rab bit Preparing the game hens. With heavy

shears, cut the backbones out of the
game hens, and split each in half
The preceding recipe is especially
lengthwise by cutting down one side
successful with rabbit. Marinate the Broiled game hen with caramelized onion quarters
of the breast. Slit the skin of each at
rabbit pieces for several hours or and a saute of zucchini with red peppers
the lower side of the breast, and tuck
overnight, following directions for
the rabbit stew on page 143. Scrape in the end of the drumstick (see illus-
off the marinade, then brown the tration for Butterflied Chicken, page
Arrange the croutons of wild rice in
rabbit for 10 minutes on each side 154 ). Brush both sides of each bird
the broiling pan. Cover each with a
with clarified butter, season lightly
u~der the broiler. Paint the top sides game hen half, pressed flesh side
with salt and pepper, and arrange
with the mustard and herb coating down onto the rice. Spread 1½ table-
skin side down in a roasting pan.
described above, pat on the crumbs spoons of grated cheese over each
and roast 15 to 20 minutes in the u;- game hen, and baste with the re-
Preliminary cooking. Set 6 inches or
per third level of a preheated 3 5 0°F served broiling juices.
so under a hot broiler and brown
oven.
lightly 6 to 7 minutes on each side.
Finishing the cooking-] 5 to 2 O min-
Rem·ove to a side dish, and pour the
When is it done? The rabbit is utes. About 20 minutes before you
juices from the pan into a small
done when the meat is tender if are ready to serve, bake in a pre-
bowl.
pierced. heated 37 5°F oven.
When are they done? The birds are

done when the thighs are tender if
SPECIAL NOTE pressed.
Pour the marinade juices into a

A Special Sauce for Using a sturdy spatula, lift them off
saucepan, and deglaze the roasting with their wild rice croutons onto hot
Marinated Rabbit or
pan with the wine, scraping the re- plates or a serving platter.
Chicken sulting liquid into the saucepan. Boil
rapidly until liquid has reduced and Suggested accompaniments to game hens
The marinade juices and the
thickened lightly, then whisk in the broiled with cheese. A saute of zuc-
roasting juices
cream and continue boiling until chini and red peppers ( page 2 9 5) and
½ cup dry white wine or French
again lightly thickened. Correct sea- caramelized onion quarters ( page
vermouth
soning, and pass in a warm bowl 3 15) are attractive here. Serve a ma-
½ cup heavy cream
with the rabbit or chicken. ' ture smooth red wine such as a caber-
net or Bordeaux.
BROIL-ROASTING re-assembled turkey on page 170) . ¥ MASTER RECIPE

Reach in under the skin at the neck,
When you have a 5- to 6-pound locate the remains of the wishbone, Broil-Roasted Turkey
roasting chicken or a turkey, and you and cut it out.
are not called upon to present the For a 15-pound butterflied turkey ( or
whole upstanding "festive bird," you half of it with or without a half breast
will cook it in half the time if you or extra leg-thigh)
butterfly and broil it-in a special B r o i l - r o as t a ll o r p a rt . Parti c-
way. You start out broiling, but if ularl y if you are dealing with a Timing-2 ½ hours to be on the safe
you continued broiling to the end you frozen turkey, you may want to roast side
would burn and dry out the outside one half only, and keep the other half A 15-pound turkey, butterflied (page
by the time the inside was cooked in the freezer. Or, to serve a few 154)
through. The solution is simple- more people, you may want one 1/3 cup melted butter or fresh cooking
start out broiling, but finish up roast- turkey half plus just the leg-thighs or oil
ing. You get that appealing broiled just the breast of the other half. 1 cup each roughly chopped carrots
effect of crisply brown, well-basted When you broil-roast, you have the and onions
flesh and skin, and you'll have a deli- choice. Seasonings: salt, and sage or thyme
cious juicy bird that is very easy to
Ingredients for whatever gravy you
carve and serve.
have chosen (page 173)
Broil-roasting will suit all roasting Number of servings per turkey. SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
chickens, and any size of turkey, but Count on 1 pound of whole turkey A roasting pan 2 inches deep that will
for most home cooks a 14- to 18- per person if you want seconds and a hold the turkey easily in one layer; a
pound turkey' is the size that will fit reasonable amount of leftovers. Thus basting brush; an instant meat
the usual home oven and roasting half a 16-pound turkey serves 8 thermometer
pan. generously, and if you add a breast
half or an extra leg-thigh, you will Broiling start. Preheat the broiler.
feed 12. Brush the turkey all over with melted
butter or oil and arrange skin side
Preparing the bird. Either ask down in the roasting pan. Set so the
your market to cut out the backbone surface of the flesh is 7 to 8 inches
of the chicken or turkey with a buzz Timing for butte rfi i e d chickens from the red-hot broiler element.
saw, and then to saw it in half close and turkeys. Roasting time is about (You want it to brown slowly and
along one side of the ridge of the half the estimate for whole roast evenly; adjust the broiler heat
breastbone, or perform this simple birds; however, always add on a 20- accordingly.)
surgery yourself with cleaver and to 3 0-minute buffer, just in case.
mallet ( as illustrated for the Here are approximate roasting Minute 6. Check on progress. Baste
estimates: flesh with butter or oil. It is just be-
Butterflied Chicken ginning to brown.
5 to 6 pounds 1 to l J/4 hours
Butterflied Turkeys Minute 12. Check and baste again.
8 to 12 pounds 1 ½ to 2 hours
12 to 16 pounds 1 ½ to 2 hours Minute 16. The flesh side should be
16 to 2 0 pounds 2 ½ to 3 ½ nicely browned; if not, give it a few
hours. minutes more. Salt the flesh side
lightly, turn the turkey skin side up,
baste the skin side, and continue.
Minute 22. Check on cooking and Laid-Back Turkey

baste with the fat that has accumu- Semi-boned, butterflied, and broil-
lated in the pan. roasted
Minute 26 to 30. T he skin side burns The turkey is completely boned ex-
easily under the broiler-check and cept for the wings and drumsticks,
baste. The skin side should be lightly which are left on to give it that un-
browned; if not, give it a few min- mistakable turkey look. It is broiled
utes more. on the flesh side to seal in juices, then
laid flesh si de down on the stuffing
I . Boned turkey ready for skewering
Roasting finish-minute 3 0 to the end. for roasting. The meat takes on flavor
Now change to a preheated 325°F from the stuffing, and vice versa,
oven. Strew the chopped vegetables while carving is, of course, a breeze. scraping against the bone and not
in the pan, basting them and dusting It's an amusing as well as practical slitting the skin, bone one side of the
lightly with the herbs. Continue bast- presentation, especially recommended turkey at a time up to but not over the
ing the turkey with accumulated fat to the home butcher. ridge of the breastbone, cutting
every 20 minutes. through the ball joints of the wings
For a 12- to 14-pound turkey, serving and thighs as you come to them.
When is it done? The turkey is 12 to 16 When you have boned the second
done when a meat thermometer inside, lift up the carcass; being careful
serted into the thickest portion of the Timing: 1 ½ to 1¾ hours because the skin is thin, scrape close
breast near the armpit area shows a against the ridge of the breastbone to
A 12- to 14-pound turkey
reading of I 62°F to I 65°F. The release the carcass.
1/3 cup melted butter
drumsticks should feel fairly tender
when pressed. pepper, and thyme or sage Turn the turkey skin side down. Lo-
5 to 6 cups of turkey stuffing-the cate the two thigh bones (their ball
Carving notes. For serving, the leg- mushroom duxelles (see Special joints protrude from the flesh on
thighs come off easily; carve them in Note, page 160) is especially either side of the lower section); cut
the usual manner. For the breast, cut and scrape flesh from bone, then cut
recommended
off the wing, then start slicing the through the knee joint to remove the
1 cup each: roughly chopped carrots,
breast from the front, angling your thigh bones on each side. Cut off the
onions, and celery stalks, to flavor
knife gradually parallel to the ridge wing nubbins at the elbows. (See il-
the roasting juices
area of the breastbone. You may wish lustration of boned turkey, step I . )
Ingredients for whatever gravy you
to carve in the kitchen, and arrange Secure the wings to the carcass with
have chosen (page 173)
the pieces attractively on a hot platter. one skewer, and the legs with an-
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: other. Paint the turkey all over with
A stout boning knife; 2 skewers about melted butter.
VARIATION JO inches long; a food processor for the
stuffing; a pastry sheet with one flat end Make a turkey stock with the carcass
that will fit into the roasting pan on and bones (directions are on page
Broil-Roasted Chicken or
several thicknesses of heavy foil (for 173) .
Capon
sliding off turkey-with-stuffing after
roasting); an instant meat thermometer *Ahead-of-time note: The turkey may
Use exactly the same system as for
be boned a day in advance; wrap and
the preceding turkey.
Boning the turkey. From inside the refrigerate it. You may also complete
neck area, cut out the wishbone.
Next, slice through skin and flesh (continued)
down the middle of the backbone
from neck to tail. Then, always
SPECIAL N OTE
Mushroom Duxelles Poultry

Stuffing
For 5 to 6 cups
2 cups diced onions

4 Tbs butter
2. Its underside browned, boned turkey now goes 4 . Laid-back turkey roasted and resting before 2 quarts (1 ¼ pounds) minced fresh
over stuffing. being carved mushrooms ( chop roughly and
mince a handful at a time in the
food processor, then squeeze dry;
Strew the chopped vegetables around add juices to your sauce)
the turkey, step 3, and roast in the Salt and freshly ground pepper
middle level of the preheated oven, ¼ tsp thyme
basting every 20 minutes first with 3 to 4 Tbs dry Port wine
butter and then with accumulated 4 boneless and skinless chicken
JUices. breast halves
2 egg whites
When is it done? The turkey is ½ cup sour cream
done when a meat thermometer,
3. Turkey ready for the oven
plunged into the thickest part of the The onions and mushrooms. Saute the
Laid-Back Turkey (continued) breast near the wing-shoulder area, minced onions in a 10-inch no-stick
registers 162°F to 165°F; the legs fr ying pan with the butter for 6 to 8
the turkey stock, and whatever stuff- should feel fairly tender when minutes, until tender but not
ing you have chosen. pressed. browned. Stir in the minced and
squeezed mushrooms and continue
Browning the turkey. Lay the turkey Gravy, carving, and serv ing. Remove sauteing for several minutes over
skin side down in the roasting pan the turkey-with-stuffing on its baking moderately high heat until the mush-
and brown the flesh side under the sheet or foil, and slide it off onto a room pieces begin to separate from
broiler, as for the preceding butter- carving board or hot platter. Let it each other. Season nicely with salt,
flied turkey. Dust with salt, pepper, rest 10 minutes or so before carving, pepper, and the thyme , and pour in
and thyme or sage. while you finish whatever gravy you the Port wine. Boil several minutes
have chosen. To carve , slice the tur- to evaporate liquid .
*Ahead-of-time note : You may brown key in half, right down through the
the turkey an hour or so ahead . center where the breastbone used to Finishing the stuffing. Puree the
be; serve slices of white meat and chicken breasts in a food processor
Roasting-I ½ to 1¼ hours at 350°F. stuffing. (By the way, those who with the egg whites and sour cream;
Butter the baking sheet or foil, set it claim they eat only dark meat will be when smooth , scrape in the mush-
in the roasting pan, and mound the delighted with their unusually savory room duxelles and pulse off-on 2 or 3
stuffing upon it. Turn the turkey flesh white meat this time.) The dark meat times just to blend. Taste carefully
side down over the stuffing; remove will be, of course, the drumsticks, and correct seasoning.
the skewers, and arrange the turkey plus the easy-to-slice thigh meat on
so that it encloses the stuffing com- the lower sides of the turkey.
pletely, step 2. If the legs hang over
the pan, tuck a double thickness of
foil under them, as shown here.
ROASTING THE WHOLE To Truss a Chicken

BIRD SPECIAL NOTE
To truss means to hold in place, and

To Stuff or Not to Stuff when you want a chicken to look its
B ring to the table an ample,

beautifully browned, fra-
grantly just-roasted chicken, and it's
A stuffed bird, particularly a small
one, takes a little longer to roast than
an unstuffed one. Stuffing does add
best, you truss it to keep the legs and
wings close to the body. But trussing
is not only for looks. It also makes
a party. There's just something spe- for more even roasting. Untrussed
cial about a whole bird, even a small some flavor to the meat, but you can drumsticks will stick up and dry out;
one. And since from 8-ounce squabs achieve much the same effect by fla- untrussed legs can gape away from
to 25-pound turkeys the technique is voring the cavity itself with salt, pep- the body and even fall off.
much the same, I shall group them per, herbs, celery leaves and/or a
together, starting with chickens. handful of chopped carrots and on- Some of our roasting chickens come
ions previously sauteed in butter. with a wire insert that holds drum-
stick ends to the vent but leaves the
Although you may prepare any of the knees free to gape. Far better to truss
WHOLE ROAST CHICKEN stuffings starting on page 184 in ad- your own. Besides a trussing needle,
vance, do not stuff the bird itself un- you'll want some white cotton string,
From tiny poussins to hefty capons, til shortly before roasting because the the kind butchers use to tie up corned
all chickens roast in essentially the stuffing could start to spoil in the cav- beef. Then go to it, following the di-
same way. The most common size is ity, and thus spoil the whole un- rections here.
the 3- to 31/2-pound fryer, but for a cooked bird. For the same reason,
real treat look for a 5- to 6-pound remove to a separate container any WASHING THE CHICKEN. Please see
roaster or a capon. Not all markets stuffing left in the bird after serving. Preparation for Cooking-and a Sol-
carry large roasting chickens, and emn Warning, on page 13 6.
sometimes those that do will stock
THE WELL-TRUSSED CHICKEN. Its
roasters only on weekends . But these
drumsticks rest nicely in place against
large chickens are worth looking out
the tip of the breastbone; the wing tips
for (or ordering in advance) because
are folded back beneath the shoulders.
you get more meat per pound, bigger
All is made neat and chic for its roast-
servings, and the bird has reached a
ing and its grand entrance. Proceed as
stage of maturity that gives you fine
described and illustrated on the next
old-fashioned chicken flavor. In spite
pages.
of its affluent look, however, a large
chicken is a relatively economical
party treat because a 5 ½-pound roast-
er, which costs only a dollar or so a
pound, will feed 6 or even 8 people.
But whether you have a real roaster
or a 3 ½-pound fryer, here's how to
truss it.
To Trim a Chicken
The Wishbone. Remove the giblets

and fat from inside the cavity, then
wash and dry both chicken and gi-
blets (I use hot water!). Now, to
make for easier carving of the breast
meat, cut out the wishbone from in-
side the neck cavity, as shown (see il-
lustration, step 1). Thread your
I. Removing the wishbone 5. In goes the stuffing.
needle and begin trussing. (You'll
note that in all the instructions for
beasts and birds I speak of knees,
armpits, elbows, etc., since I find it
easier to understand the parts when
one realizes they are built essentially
just like us, with rib cages, back-
bones, necks, and so forth .)
First Thrust. Lift up the drumstick

ends, then push the knees under the
armpits at the shoulder end. While
2 . FIRST THRUST. Pushing needle through car- 6. Going through drumstick ends and tip of
one hand holds the legs up, push the cass under the knee breastbone
needle through the flesh under one
knee and through carcass, step 2;
draw the needle out under the oppo-
site knee . (Leave a 5-inch length of
string at your point of entry under
the first knee.)
Turn the chicken breast down. Fold

the wings akimbo, tucking the wing
ends under the shoulders as shown
here. Then, on the same side of the
chicken where you came out from the 3. CONTIN UATION . Going through wings 7. The string has gone through tail piece.
second knee, poke the needle through
the upper arm of the wing, catch the
neck skin, if there, and pin it to the
backbone, and come out through the
second wing, step 3.
Tie # 1 . You now have two string

ends on the same side of the chicken:
the loose end you left behind when
you first went under the first knee
and the end where you come out at
the wing. Turn the chicken on its 4. TIE #I 8. Final tie to close cavity
back, pull the two ends tight, and tie,
step 4.
¥ MASTER RECIPE Minute 2 0. Baste with accum u-

lated fat; turn the chicken on its other
To Roast a Large Chicken side.
or Capon
Minute 3 0. Lower thermostat to
For 6 to 8 servings 350°F. Baste again, always rapidly.
A 5½- to 7-pound roaster-chicken or
Minute 40. Baste again.
capon, prepared and trussed as
described in the preceding
Minute 50. Baste again. Salt
9. The well-trussed chicken directions (cavity either salted
and peppered, or filled with 2½
lightly, turn the chicken on its other
cups stuffing; see list, page 184)
side, and strew the vegetables
Stuffing. The chicken may be roasted around.
1 Tbs softened butter, or oil
with or without a stuffing. If it's not
Salt
to be stuffed, sprinkle a big pinch of Minute 60. Baste ~gain.
salt inside the cavity, a little pepper, To flavor the roasting juices
and perhaps an herb such as thyme or 1 medium carrot, chopped Minute 70 to finish. Turn the
tarragon; you may also want to tuck 1 onion, chopped chicken breast-up, salt, and baste;
in the liver. A collection of stuffings baste once or twice again until the
Ingredients for a deglazing sauce
starts on page 184; the rice and giblet chicken is done.
(shallots, stock, wine, and
recipe on page 185 is one of my fa-
optional butter, page 138)
vorites for a large roaster. When is it done? The thighs are
tender when pressed; the legs move
Tie #2 . Now you want to close the A roasting pan about 2 inches deep and quite easily up and down in their
cavity, which will be automatic when just large enough to hold the chicken; a sockets; when the chicken is lifted
you truss the drumstick ends against rack for the pan; a basting brush and drained, the last juices to drop
the breast. To do so, push the needle from the vent are clear yellow.
through the end of one of the drum- Preliminaries. Preheat the oven to
sticks, through the tip end of the 450°F. Massage the chicken skin all Remove the chicken to a board and
breastbone, and out through the end over with the soft butter or oil, and let it rest 20 minutes before carving,
of the other drumstick, leaving a 5- · place breast-up on the rack in the so that the juices will retreat back
inch length of string at the side you roasting pan. into the flesh. Meanwhile make the
entered, step 6. quick and delicious little deglazing
Roasting. Count on 2 to 2 ½ hours in sauce to moisten each serving, as de-
Then, on the same side where you all-1 ½ to 2 hours for roasting and scribed on page 13 8.
came out the drumstick end, push a 20-minute rest before carving.
your needle through the underside of HIGH-TEMPERATURE ROASTING. See
Open and close the oven quickly
the tailpiece. The string has now en- discussion in the roast turkey section on
while basting, so as not to cool it
circled this whole critical area, which page 168.
down.
needs but one final tie, step 7.
Start. Set the chicken breast-up in
When you pull the two ends of the the pan, on the lower middle rack of
string tight, you have closed the barn the preheated oven.
door, so to speak-the stuffing is held
in place, and the legs are nicely se- Minute 10. Turn the chicken on
cured, step 8. The chicken is ready one side (trussing stririgs give you an
for its butter massage and its roast- easy grip).
ing, step 9.
To Carve a Chicken
SPECIAL NOTE
Carving takes practice-and that's

To Roast Smaller Chickens probably why we don't see many
and Game Hens whole roast chickens presented at the
table: nobody wants to make a messy
Use the same general techniques of public spectacle. But what pride the
basting, turning, and testing as in the whole family can take when the head
preceding master recipe. of the house is an expert!
I . Bending leg outward
I-Pound Squab Chickens of The best way to learn is to go at it all
Poussins, and Game Hens by oneself in the kitchen. Learn the
5 0 to 60 minutes in all (3 0 structure by starting out with a raw
minutes at 450°F-l 0 minutes whole chicken which you cut up for a
breast-up and 10 more on each saute. When you're easy with a raw
side; finish 20 to 30 minutes chicken, then tackle a roasted chicken
breast-up at 350°F) (always in private at first). It won't
take a determined home butcher too
2½- to 3-Pound Broilers and long to master the technique .
Broiler-Fryers
1 hour and 10 to 20 minutes in all SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
(30 minutes at 450°F-10 Two very sharp knives: one having a
minutes breast-up and 10 more on curved blade for getting around joints, 2. Knife pointing at ball joint
each side; 10 more on each side at the other a serrated ham knife for mak-
350°F; finish breast-up) ing neat slices from the breast. A two-
pronged fork will hold the bird, and a
3½:- to 4-Pound Fryers board is easier to work on than a slip-
1 hour and 15 to 3 0 minutes in all pery platter, both in the kitchen and at
(30 minutes at 450°F-10 the table ( a damp towel under the board
minutes breast-up and 10 more on will keep it from slipping)
each side; 15 minutes more on
each side at 3 5 0°F; finish breast- The leg-thigh. Place the chicken on its
up) back, its legs toward you. Start with
the leg nearest you: first slit the skin
between knee and tip of breast, then
3. Separating drumstick from thigh
slit it around to the small of the back.
Fork-grab under the knee and start
bending it back at right angles to-
ward your work surface (see illustra-
tion, step 1).
4. Carving off wing with strip of breast

Cranberry Relish
Fresh cranberries, which freeze per-

fectly in their plastic sacks, go so well
with cold roast chicken, as well as
goose and duck and pork.
For ·about 1 ½ quarts
3 pounds (3 quarts) cranberries

5. Carving the breast meat 6. All this meat , just from one side of the chicken The zest ( colored part of the peel) of
3 oranges
The zest of 1 lemon
The leg-thigh continued. Keep forcing The breast meat. If you did remove 3 cups sugar ( 1 cup granulated sugar
the knee down, and soon you'll see the wishbone, carving the breast is to pulverize with the zests; 2 cups
the ball joint where the leg-thigh easy. For the conventional manner granulated and/or brown sugar
meets the small of the back (at the shown here, step 5, start slicing from for simmering)
point of the knife in the illustration, the front of the breast, gradually an- 1 ½ cups orange juice
step 2). Catch if you can, along with gling your knife parallel to the bone The juice of the lemon
the leg-thigh, the "oysters" of dark as you go. (The long serrated "ham 2 tsp grated fresh ginger
meat nestled against the small of the slicer" works well here.) Another
back just above and below the joint. system is to remove each breast half SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
(If you've practiced on raw chicken, in one piece, and to make slanting A food processor or electric blender; a
you'll have noticed these little crosswise slices-this is illustrated heavy 4-quart saucepan w ith cover
treasures.) for roast goose on page 176.
Assembling. Wash the cranberries,
Leg-thigh final. Cut through the joint, Second side-same as the first. Repeat discarding any withered berries and
then separate the drumstick from the steps 1- 5 on the other side of the stems. Pulverize the orange and
thigh (second joint) by cutting chicken but see how much meat you lemon zests with 1 cup of granulated
through the knee joint, step 3-easi- get from just one side of the big sugar, and combine the cranberries
est to do when you turn the piece skin beautiful 5 ½ -pound roaster we have with the rest of the sugar, the orange
side down so you can see . If you've a here, step 6 ! But broilers and fryers juice, lemon juice, and ginger in the
big chicken, you may want to cut a have their tender charms, too. sauce pan.
serving slice off the thigh .
Simmering. Bring to the boil, allow-
The wing. Here is a clever way to ing the liquid to bubble up over the
make a real serving out of the wing: berries for 2 to 3 minutes, just until
cut along the lower third of the they burst. Set aside. Taste after ½
breast, then bring your knife up and hour; stir in a little more sugar, if it's
cut through the ball joint attaching needed-but it is a relish and should
wing to shoulder, thus adding a little be somewhat tart to go with meat. It
extra meat to the wing, step 4. will jell when cold.
ROAST TURKEY Broil-roasted butterflied

SPECIAL NOTE
turkey. Here the turkey is halved
A whole turkey is really easier to lengthwise . It is broiled on the flesh
roast than chicken just because it is side to seal it, then turned skin side Turkey Miscellany
bigger and tougher and takes less at- up to roast and finish cooking.
tention-meaning less basting, turn- Again, the turkey cooks in half the To thaw frozen turkey
ing, and fussing over. This section usual time and carving is easy ( page
starts with the conventional whole 15 8). If you have a frozen turkey, either let
roast turkey, but there is no reason to it thaw in its plastic wrapping in the
be tied down to tradition, given the refrigerator for 2 or 3 days, or sub-
many interesting ways to treat a tur- merge it in its wrapping in a sinkful
key. Here is a description of four Laid-back turkey. A variation on of cold water, where it will take a 14-
other recipes you'll find: butterflied turkey, in which the pound bird 3 hours or so to thaw. (In
turkey is boned except for the wings either case, plan to cook your turkey
and drumsticks. The flesh side is soon after thawing.)
broiled, then it is turned over to
The re-assembled turkey, where finish roasting on its stuffing.
the leg-thighs are roasted in one pan, Deliciously flavored meat, easy
and the breast in another, and the carving, and again, it cooks in half To prepare a turkey for roasting
turkey cooks in half the usual time. It the usual time (page 159).
is re-assembled for serving and looks Unwrap the turkey and remove the
just like a whole roast turkey, but packages of giblets from the main
carves like a breeze ( page 170). and the neck cavities-these will in-
A solemn warning. Before you clude the neck, liver, heart, and giz-
begin, please see the instructions for zard. Wash and dry the turkey. It is a
washing the turkey and other good idea to have most of the stuffing
The boned and re-formed turkey precautions for all poultry on page ingredients prepared in advance, so
breast; in which the boneless breast 136. you are ready to go. (Be sure your
halves are replaced on the breast skin oven thermostat is correct: if it's 5 0
with the stuffing; the breast is re- degrees off and you don't know it, for
formed and then roasted. Again, easy instance, you are in for trouble.)
carving, and savory white meat
(page 172) .
How many servings per pound of

turkey?
Count on ½ pound of whole turkey

per serving, or 1 pound per person if
you want second helpings and some
leftovers.
Stuffing and Trussing the Sprinkle a little salt in both the neck
Turkey and the main cavities .
Illustrated here is a 14-pound turkey, Stuffing. Do not stuff your turkey un-
a good size for taste and tenderness as til shortly before roasting because the
well as for ease in handling. It will stuffing might start to spoil in the
serve 12 to 14 people, wants 8 cups turkey. Have the stuffing at room
of stuffing, and takes about 4 hours to temperature, however, because a
roast. Timing for other sizes is in the chilled stuffing can make for all kinds
Special Note on page 16 8. of timing and temperature problems.
2. Stuffing the neck cavity
Stuff the neck cavity first, setting the
8 cups stuffing (see the recipes
turkey bottom-down in the big bowl,
beginning on page 184)
and packing it in rather loosely, step
Salt
2; it will swell during roasting. Bring
Fresh cooking oil, for basting
the neck skin (if any) up over the
1 cup each roughly chopped carrots
stuffing and secure it to the backbone
and onions
with a skewer, as shown in photo 4.
A stout boning knife; a heavy bowl to Stuffing, continued. Reverse the tur-
hold the up-ended turkey for ease in key, setting it breast end down in
stuffing; several skewers 8 to 10 inches your bowl, ·and fi.U the main cavity.
long; a couple of 3-inch skewers; white
3 . Turkey is stuffed , legs are secured . Now you want to keep the drumsticks
cotton string; a roasting pan 2 inches in place. Our bird in the photo has a
deep and just large enough to hold the skin flap that conveniently holds the
turkey easily; a rack for the roasting. legs , step 3. Or you can run a skewer
pan; an instant meat thermometer; a through the ends of the drumsticks
basting brush; a sheet offoil and secure the skewer with string. To
keep the stuffing in, press against it a
First moves . For easier carving of the double thickness of buttered wax pa-
breast meat, cut out the wishbone per or foil and tuck it into the cavity,
from inside the neck cavity, as shown as shown in step 6 , next page .
for roast chicken (step 1, page 162).
4. A skewer and string truss for wings Final moves. In step 4, I am winding
For a more attractive appearance, re-
move the tough little nubbins shown string around the ends of the skewer
here, step 1, at the wing elbows. that secures the wings. You can see
that the neck skin is pinned to the
backbone with a small skewer, and a
long skewer goes through the carcass
to pin the knees in place (which
shows more clearly in the next step).
There are no rules here; use any sys-
tem that works for you .
Ready to roast. The turkey is all

5. Turkey all trussed up and ready to roast
trussed and waiting for the oven, step
5. Now rub it all over with fresh
oil-no need for butter here. Set it
I. Here is the wing nubbin; wishbone has been re- breast up on the rack in the roasting
moved, neck and giblets on plate. pan.
¥ MASTER RECIPE Gravy. Several methods for making

gravy start on page 17 3-take your SPECIAL NOTE
The Traditional Roast choice. T he giblet recipe is particu-
Turkey larly good with a plain roast turkey. Estimated Roasting Times at
325°F
Moderate heat makes for a nice Carving. Carve the turkey as you
brown bird and tender juicy meat. would the big chicken, on page 164. NOTE: A chunky big-breasted tur-
You also have easy and complete con- First remove the leg-thigh and then key will take a little longer per pound
trol over the roasting, as well as the wing on one side. The wing than the longer thinner type, and an
beautiful juices for your gravy. makes one serving. For the legs, cut unstuffed bird takes 2 0 to 3 0 minutes
through the ball joint at the knee, less time, overall, than a stuffed one.
Roasting the turkey. P reheat the oven separating the drumstick from the To the timing estimates, always add
to 325°F. W hen you are ready to second joint; make 2 or 3 lengthwise an additional half-hour rest out of the
roast, place the prepared turkey in slices from the drumstick, and sev- oven before carving; this allows the
the lower third level. Baste with oil eral more from the second joint. juices to retreat back into the flesh,
or the accumulated pan juices every Start slicing the breast from the front giving juicy meat. Since even a 14-
30 to 40 minutes. It's no more com- end, gradually angling your knife pound turkey takes over an hour to
plicated than that, as long as you keep parallel to the breastbone as illus- cool down to tepid , allow yourself
an eye on how things are going. trated for the re-assembled turkey, plenty of time .
photo 12, on page 17 1. Or carve
During the roasting. If the turkey off the breast half in one piece, and 12 to 16 pounds-about 4
starts to brown too much, cover cut into slanting crosswise slices, as hours to roast
loosely with a sheet of foil, shiny side illustrated for the goose on page 17 6.
up, step 6. An hour or more before 16 to 2 0 pounds-about 5
the end of the estimated roasting time hours to roast
(see chart following), scatter the
chopped vegetables into the juices in Turkey Stock for Gravy 2 0 to 2 6 pounds-about 6
the pan. hours to roast
Either make a simple stock by sim-
mering the backbone pieces, gizzard, When is it done? Whatever your
neck, and any scraps in lightly salted timing charts and thermometers may
water, or choose the more elaborate say, no turkey is done if there are no
brown turkey stock on page 173, brown juices along with the fat in the
where the bones and aromatic vege- bottom of the roasting pan-you
tables are browned before sim- should have about a cup of juice.
mering. When you feel your turkey is done,
check the temperature: insert an in-
stant meat thermometer into the
thickest part of the breast meat near
6. Cover loosely with foil if turkey browns too the armpit area, testing several areas
much. and both sides. It should register be-
tween 162°F and 17 0°F-the higher
Remove the turkey to a carving temperature if you like the meat
board or hot platter and cover loosely fairly well done. The thickest part of
with a sheet of foil. W hile the turkey the drumsticks should feel fairly ten-
is resting, make the gravy. der when pressed , and the drumsticks
should move slightly in their hip
sockets.
On the next pages are not only direc- High-Temperature Roasting Roast uncovered at 5 00°F for about
tions for whole roast turkey done in 3 0 minutes, or until the accumulated
the traditional manner, but a number You can roast a turkey at very high fat begins to burn in the bottom of
of different ways with roast tu_rkey. heat, which takes half the time and the pan. Then reduce the thermostat
makes for crisp skin and juicy meat. to 450°F, and add to the pan the
These are designed to make for In my opinion, however, you have chopped vegetables plus 2 cups of
quicker cooking, since a butterflied little control over the roasting pro- water, adding a little more water as
turkey or a dis-assembled and re- cess, and while the meat is juicy it is needed during roasting. (Water pre-
assembled one takes half the cooking less tender than that of a turkey vents the juices from burning and
time of a whole turkey. They are also roasted in a moderate oven. How- smoking up not only the whole
intended for easier carving and serv- ever, the following system has kitchen but the whole house!) A 14-
ing at the table, as well as for the worked for me. pound bird will take 2 hours or so.
cook's amusement- it is interesting
and fun to try different methods. An-
other good reason for changing from
the traditional whole roast turkey
Thanksgiving symbol to other pre-
sentations is that it makes turkey a
more year-round bird-and that's a
good thing since turkey is a most rea-
sonably priced party-kind-of-.meat at
other times of the year.
The Re-assembled Roast Turkey

The Re-assembled Roast Boning the thigh. The thigh (or sec-
Turkey ond joint) is easy to cut into neat
slices once the bone is out, as you can
When you dis-assemble a turkey, you see in photo 10 at far right in the
can roast the breast alone on its stuff- carving directions. You want to re-
ing while the leg-thighs, which cook move the thigh bone, but keep the
faster, take their own time in their thigh meat attached to the drumstick.
own pan. Again, roasting in pieces To do so, cut and scrape around it to
takes half the time as roasting a whole expose the ball joint at the knee
bird, and when you re-assemble it, as (where you see the point of the
I. Removing the backbone
you see here on its platter, who would knife). Cut through the joint but do
ever know? Just lift off the legs and not separate the flesh, and the bone is
start carving. free, step 3; add it to your turkey
stock.
You can ask your market to do the dis-
assembly for you, but it is not much Trussing the thigh. Season the interior
of a problem for the home butcher. of the thigh meat with salt, pepper,
and sage. Truss it closed with skew-
Suggested equipment for the home ers and string, step 4; massage it all
butcher. A cleaver or hatchet; a over with oil.
pounding instrument is useful, like a
plumber's rubber hammer; a baking 2. Removing the leg-thigh Leg-thighs ready to roast. Arrange the
sheet with at least 1 rimless side, of a leg-thighs on a rack in a separate
size to fit into your roasting pan or pan, step 5, at right: they take less
several thicknesses of heavy-duty time to roast than the breast. Cover
foil-so that the breast with stuffing and refrigerate them if you are not
can be slid off for serving. proceeding shortly.
Removing the backbone. Chop down Trussing the breast. Cut out the wish-
each side of the backbone, to remove bone from inside the neck cavity, as
it completely (see illustration, step illustrated for roast chicken, step 1,
1). Chop it into 2-inch lengths, and page 162. Chop off the elbow nub-
it is ready to go into your turkey bins and any extraneous bits. Skewer
3. Boning the thigh
stock . the neck skin to the back, and truss
the wings to the body by pushing a
The leg-thighs. The thigh bone will long skewer through them and secur-
still be attached to part of the backing it with string, step 6. Cover and
bone, where you see the point of the refrigerate the breast if you are not
knife in the photograph. Scraping proceeding soon.
any meat free above and below the
joint, cut through the joint to free the Mounding the breast on the stuffing.
thigh with leg (drumstick) attached, Shortly before roasting, rub the
step 2. breast inside and out with oil; season
it lightly with salt, pepper, and sage.
4. Trussing the thigh You may roast it as is, but if you want
it on a stuffing, where it will pick up
flavor, mound the stuffing on its sepa-
rate sheet, step 7, set in your roasting

pan; then push the breast down onto
the stuffing.
Ready to roast. Preheat the oven to

3 2 5°F. Surround the turkey stuffing
with a double strip of oiled foil, step
8, at lower left.
Roasting the dis-assembled turkey.

S. Leg-thighs in pan ready to roast 9. Re-assembling and presentation
Roast the breast and the legs as you
would a whole turkey (page 168),
basting with oil, then accumulated
juices, every 20 to 30 minutes; the
last hour, surround the breast with a
cup each of chopped carrots and on-
ions to flavor the juices.
Re-assembling and presentation. To

present the bird, slide the turkey
breast, on its bed of stuffing, onto the
6. Trussing wings to breast platter or carving board. Remove all I O. Carvi ng the boned thigh
skewers and strings , and arrange the
legs in their rightful place, step 9.
Slicing the thigh. Simply pick up one

of the legs, and start slicing the thigh
(second joint) crosswise like a sau-
sage, making medallions about ¼
inch thick, step 10. Slice the drum-
stick lengthwise, in the usual awk-
ward way. (If the turkey people
would remove those drumstick ten-
7. Mounding the breast on the stuffing I I . Removing a wi ng
dons-and they easily could-the
drumstick would come into its own .)
Removing the wing. Protecting your

fingers with a napkin, grab the wing
by its elbow. Cut around it where it
joins the shoulder; then, bending it
forward to loosen it, cut through the
ball joint at the shoulder to remove
the wing, step 11.
8. Breast ready for the oven Slicing the breast. Now start slicing 12. Slicing the breast
the breast from the front end, gradu-
ally angling your knife parallel to the
breastbone as you proceed, step 12.
Boned Stuffed and Roasted Assembling. Dip the piece of cheese-

Turkey Breast cloth in the melted butter and spread
it out on a baking pan. Paint melted
You don't need a whole bird if you're butter over the turkey skin; spread it,
serving a small group, and our mar- outer side down, on the cheesecloth.
kets abound in fine turkey breasts. Season the turkey lobes with salt and
Most of the year they are frozen, so pepper, paint them with melted but-
buy from a market with a fast turn- ter and arrange the meat smooth-side
over. It's always best to let the breast down on the turkey skin, step 2.
1 . Removing lobe of meat on other side of

defrost quietly for 2 to 3 days in its
breastbone original plastic, in the refrigerator. Stuffing goes on. Spoon 1/3 to ½ of the
For a legless but whole turkey look, stuffing over the meat, step 3, then
you slice the two massive raw lobes bring the cheesecloth up over to en-
of breast off the bone, as described close it completely. Tie the 2 ends of
here, then nestle them back on the the bundle securely, and cut off excess
turkey skin and re-form the now cheesecloth.
boneless breast. Roast it to brown and
beautiful, and it couldn't be easier to Sewing up the bundle . Sew the edges
carve nor more delicious to eat. of cheesecloth together over the top
of the bundle, step 4. Turn the tur-
For a 10-pound bone-in turkey breast, key over, skin side up. Strew the
serving 1 0 to 12 chopped vegetables in the pan, and
2. Arranging lobes of meat on turkey skin the turkey is ready to roast. (Spoon
A IO-pound bone-in turkey breast extra stuffing into a buttered casse-
½ cup or so melted butter role, set in a pan of boiling water,
Salt and freshly ground pepper and bake with the turkey.) Preheat
2½ cups stuffing (recipes start on the oven to 325°F.
page 184)
½ cup each chopped carrots and Roasting-about 2 hours at 3 2 5° F.
omons Place the turkey in the lower middle
For the gravy: see the recipes level of the preheated oven, and roast
starting on page 173 to a meat-thermometer reading of
162°F to 165°F, basting occasionally
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: A
with melted butter, then with the fat
3 . Spooning stuffing over the meat jelly-roll pan; a 24-inch square of
in the pan-the skin will brown
washed cheesecloth; a trussing or darn-
nicely under the cheesecloth.
ing needle and white cotton string
Onto the platter. When done, remove

Boning the turkey breast. Carefully
the turkey to a platter and let it rest
pull and cut the skin off the breast,
20 minutes. Meanwhile deglaze the
keeping it whole. Slicing down one
roasting pan and complete the gravy.
side the length of the breastbone, re-
After its reconstituting rest, cut the
move the lobe of meat on that side of
cheesecloth at the lower part of one
the carcass, then the other, as shown
side and carefully pull it off the skin;
in step 1. Cut extra bits of turkey
turn the turkey over and remove the
flesh from the carcass and skin; re-
4. Sewing up the bundle cloth from the other side. Finally
serve them for your stuffing, and
turn the turkey right side up, and it
make a turkey stock out of the bones
is ready to serve.
(see next page).
JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK POULTRY 17 3
Carving and serving. Starting at the Chop the bones into pieces of reason- Old-Fashioned Brown
large end, carve the meat into bias able size and, in a large frying pan, Gravy
slices on one side, then on the other. brown them in hot fat or oil, adding
Serve stuffing from the casserole until the carrots and onions about halfway For 2 ½ to 3 cups, giving 3 to 4 table-
the stuffing in the turkey is revealed. through. Transfer to a heavy sauce- spoons of gravy to each of 12 to 14
pan, leaving the fat in the frying people
pan. Pour out the fat, and deglaze
the frying pan with the wine ( pour it 3 Tbs clear turkey roasting fat,
Turkey gravies in and bring to the boil, scraping up skimmed from the pan
coagulated browning juices). Scrape ¼ cup flour
A good turkey gravy starts out with a the wine into the saucepan, adding 3 cups hot turkey stock (see recipe
good turkey stock. You may make a enough liquid to cover the ingredi- preceding)
simple turkey stock by simmering the ents by an inch. Add the celery and 1 cup dry white French vermouth or
neck and trimmings in lightly salted simmer, skimming fat and scum off dry white wine (or more stock),
water as described for the chicken the surface, for 3 0 minutes. Salt and for deglazing the roasting pan
stock on page 13 7, or produce the pepper lightly, adding the bay leaf The degreased turkey-roasting juices
more elaborate version here, which is and thyme. Simmer partially covered Salt and freshly ground pepper
particularly recommended when you for 1½ hours; strain and degrease. 2 to 3 Tbs butter, optional
have a good amount of raw turkey
bones and scraps. *Ahead-of-time note: Refrigerate un-
A wooden spoon and a wire whisk; a
covered; cover when chilled, will
heavy-bottomed 2½-quart saucepan; a
keep several days; may be frozen.
sieve set over a smaller saucepan
" MASTER RECIPE
The gravy base. Make a brown roux
Brown Turkey Stock SPECIAL NOTE by blending the turkey fat and flour
in the saucepan with the wooden
Its agreeable dark color comes from
Gravy Basics spoon; stir slowly over moderate heat
browning the bones and vegetables for several minutes while the roux
The gravy base is made while the colors a walnut brown. Remove from
before the simmering starts. The re-
turkey is roasting. After the turkey heat, stirring for a moment until the
sulting amount of stock depends, of
has been removed to its platter, the bubbling stops. Vigorously whisk in
course, on the quantity of bones and
fat is skimmed off the vegetables and the hot turkey stock; simmer, stirring
scraps you have.
juices in the roasting pan and the pan occasionally, for 10 minutes.
The neck, and any other raw turkey is deglazed-meaning you pour in a
bones such as from the breast or cup or so of wine or stock and sim- *Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared
the backbone mer briefly as you scrape the pan well in advance and refrigerated.
2 to 3 Tbs clear turkey-roasting fat, with a wooden spoon to gather into
or fresh oil the liquid all the coagulated roasting Completing the gravy. Deglaze the
½ to 1½ cups each chopped carrots bits. Pour this flavorful brown liquid roasting pan with the wine, and de-
and onions ( depending on how mixture into a saucepan and simmer grease it as described in the Special
many bones you have) for several minutes, skimming off Note; pour the liquid into the gravy
½ to 1 cup dry white French fat, and finally you pour it through a base and simmer several minutes,
vermouth oir dry white wine sieve set over your gravy base, press- skimming off any surface fat, while
2 to 4 cups liquid (water and/or ing the juices out of the roasting veg- the sauce reduces and concentrates in
chicken stock or broth) etables. Now finish the gravy as flavor. Carefully correct seasoning.
1 or 2 celery stalks with tender directed in the recipe. Just before serving, if you wish,
leaves whisk in the butter by tablespoons.
pepper, 1 bay leaf, and thyme
VARIATIONS WHOLE ROAST GOOSE Steam-Roasted Goose

Cream Gravy There's nothing quite like goose, For 8 to 10 servings
with its crisp brown skin and its
Complete the gravy as described, but wonderfully flavored all-dark meat. Cooking time: 2¼ to 3 hours
omit the optional butter at the end. It's grand on a platter, and when you
Instead, whisk in ½ cup or so of perform a little trick surgery on the A 9½- to 11-pound young roasting
heavy cream, and simmer to reduce joints before roasting, it's amazingly goose
and re-thicken the sauce. easy to carve. Juice of 1 lemon
Salt
Goose is not a tender bird like Stuffing, optional-see notes in
chicken: it has a certain texture and recipe
Giblet Gravy chewiness, and its own special flavor. The neck, wing ends, heart, and
And goose has a fat problem. The gizzard
Simmer the turkey gizzard in a little best way to deal with that, in my ex- 1 each: large carrot, onion, and
turkey stock until tender-about 40 perience, is to steam it first for about celery stalk, roughly chopped
minutes, adding the heart to simmer an hour on top of the stove. This ren- 2 to 3 cups of red wine, white wine,
10 minutes, and the liver to simmer ders out a great deal of fat. Then you or water
5 minutes. Peel the gizzard, mince it braise it in a covered roaster with ½ cup of Port wine blended with
along with the heart and liver, and aromatic flavorings for an hour or so 1½ Tbs cornstarch
saute for a moment in a tablespoon of more, which renders out more fat.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: A
butter. Reserve them in their cooking Finally you uncover it to let the skin
deep roasting pan just large enough to
stock, and add to the turkey gravy brown and crisp. This system renders
hold the goose comfortably; a rack and a
base along with the deglazing liquid. out the most fat and gives the most
tight-fitting cover for the roaster
succulent flesh of any cooking tech-
nique I've tried, and it also works
Preparing the goose for cooking.
well with duck, as described on page
Port Wine Gravy 176.
Surgery. Pull all loose fat out from
A faster, starch-thickened gravy
the cavity at the rear of the goose.
Chop off the wings at just below the
Thickening with cornstarch rather
elbow. To make carving much easier,
than the flour-butter roux makes for a
cut out the wishbone from inside the
quick and fat-free gravy, but a less
neck of the goose, as illustrated for
stable one-in other words, the sauce
chicken ( page 162). For even easier
may thin out on occasion, but you can
carving, you can loosen the wings
always thicken it again with more
and legs as follows.
cornstarch. Deg laze the degreased
roasting pan with 3 cups of turkey
For the wings, wiggle the upper arm
stock. Blend 3 tablespoons of corn-
of a wing to locate where it is at-
starch in a bowl with 3 tablespoons of
tached inside (at the shoulder end),
Port wine. After simmering, skim-
just below the outside edge of the
ming, and straining the stock, whisk
shoulder blade (this will take some
dribbles of it into the cornstarch. Re-
poking about); cut through the ball
turn the cornstarch mixture to the
joint from inside the neck cavity, and
pan and simmer 3 minutes. Correct
you will feel that the wing is free.
seasoning.
JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK POULTRY 17 5
or sage. Or pick one of the stuffings

beginning on page 184-the prune
and liver pate ( page 185) is espe-
cially recommended.
Goose stock. Chop up the neck and

wing ends. Simmer 2 hours in
lightly salted water to cover, with the
heart and gizzard. Strain, degrease,
and refrigerate. You should have
about 2 cups.
Final cooking-braising- 1 ½ to 2
hours at 3 2 5°F. Remove the steamed
goose from the roaster and let it cool
20 minutes or so. Pour the liquid out
of the roaster (you will have several
cups of pure goose fat, which will
rise to the surface: save the fat for
sauteing potatoes or other uses; use
the liquid in stocks or soups). Re-
Steam-Roasted Goose move the hip skewer and insert what-
ever flavoring or stuffing you have
chosen; replace the skewer. Place a
For the legs, from outside, at the *Ahead-of-time note: The goose may
double sheet of foil over the rack and
small of the back, locate (by wiggling be prepared to this point a day in ad-
lay in the goose, breast down. Strew
it) where the second joint joins the vance; cover and refrigerate.
the chopped vegetables in the pan
back; thrust the point of your knife
around the goose and pour in a cup
into the joints on each side to cut the Preliminary cooking-steaming (¾ to
or so of wine or goose-steaming liq-
tendons and loosen the thighs. Then 1 hour). Place the goose, breast up,
uid-renew during cooking, as
sew or skewer the skin slits closed. on the rack in the roasting pan. Add
needed. Cover tightly and braise 1 to
an inch or two of water; bring to the
1½ hours, depending on the size of
Seasoning. Rub the goose inside and boil on top of. the stove, and cover
your bird; check occasionally to see
out with lemon juice; lightly salt the the pan tightly. Reduce heat and
all is well, and baste with accumu-
inside of the cavity. steam for ¼ to 1 hour, depending on
lated juices.
the size of the goose. Check on the
Trussing. Push a long skewer through water level occasionally, adding a
When is it done? The steaming is
the carcass at the shoulder end, to se- little more if it has boiled off.
done when the legs feel almost tender
cure the wings. Run another through
if pressed.
at the hips to secure the legs. Tie the Stuffing options. Stuffing is not neces-
drumstick ends in place against the sary; simply season the cavity with
Browning-about 30 minutes. Turn
tailpiece. To help in rendering out salt and pepper and a sprinkling of
the goose breast-up, and baste it with
fat, prick the skin with a sharp- thyme or sage. Or use an aromatic
the juices in the pan. If the bird is al-
pointed skewer or darning needle in flavoring: a chopped carrot and onion
ready brown, set the cover slightly
numerous places (but not so deep as sauteed until tender in goose fat or
askew. If it needs browning, remove
to reach the flesh) around the lower butter; stuff that into the cavity along
the cover.
breast and thighs. with a small handful of chopped cel-
ery leaves and a sprinkling of thyme
( continued)
Steam-Roasted Goose (continued) Repeat on the other side. Slice the Preparing the duck for roasting. Pull
drumsticks and second joints length- all loose fat out of the cavity of the
When is it done? Continue roasting wise, in the usual manner. Give each duck, remove the wishbone for easier
another ½ hour or more, basting customer a selection of each, and carving of the breast, and, for even
once or twice, until the drumsticks moisten the meat with a big spoonful easier carving, cut through the ball
feel quite tender when pressed. of gravy. joints of the wings and thighs ( as de-
scribed for the goose, page 174) .
Remove the goose to a carving board Chop off the wings at the elbows;
or platter and set it in the turned-off save them , as well as the neck and
oven, leaving the door ajar. WHOLE ROAST DUCK giblets, for duck stock. Wipe the
duck dry, and rub all over the outside
Gravy . Degrease the roasting pan; Steam-roasting solves the three-fold and inside the cavity with cut lemon.
pour in the goose stock and Port- problem we supermarket shoppers Salt the inside of the cavity lightly
cornstarch mixture . Simmer a mo- have in cooking our 4 ½- to 5 ½ - and add, if you wish, a sprinkling of
ment, scraping up any coagulated pound ducks: all that fat under the thyme or sage.
roasting juices. Strain into a sauce- skin, tough leg-thighs, but tender
pan, pressing juices out of the vege- breast. Roasting the regular way can't Preliminary steaming-3 0 minutes.
tables that cooked with the goose. give you perfect breast meat and ten- Place the duck breast up on the rack
der legs plus crisp skin, but with the in the casserole, add 1 inch of water,
steam-roast you can have all three. and bring to the boil on top of the
The other solutions are to separate stove. Cover the casserole tightly, re-
the duck, as described starting on the duce heat, and let it steam 3 0
next page; this works beautifully, but minutes.
it's labor-intensive. Steam-roasting is
a relati vely simple procedure, and it Braising-30 minutes at 325°F. Re-
gives savory results. Except for tim- move the steamed duck from the cas-
ing, it's the same method as for serole, pour out the liquid (which
steam-roasting a goose, and here are you can degrease and use for your
the brief details. duck stock), and drain the duck.
Carving the goose Place a double thickness of foil over
the rack, and return the duck, breast
Simmer several minutes, skimming down. Strew the vegetables around,
fat off the surface. Carefully correct Steam-Roasted Duck and pour in the wine or water. Bring
seasoning. Pour into a hot gravy to the simmer on top of the stove,
boat. For 4 servings cover the casserole, and braise in the
preheated oven for 3 0 minutes.
A 5-pound duckling
Carving and serving. Remove the leg I lemon
on the side nearest you- it will come Final roasting-3 0 to 4 0 minutes at
Salt
off quite easily if you've disjointed it. Sage or thyme, optional
3 75° F. Remove the duck to the rack
Remove the wings, and save for sec- in the shallow roasting pan. Roast
½ cup each: chopped onion, carrot,
ond helpings . Then, cutting down uncovered to brown and crisp the
and celery
your side of the length of the breast- 1½ cups red wine, white wine, or · skin-the duck is done when the legs
bone, remove the whole breast-half feel reasonably tender.
water
in one piece (see illustration). Cut it
on the slant, like a sausage, to make SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: A
nice medallions about ¼ inch thick . covered roaster or casserole with rack,
just large enough to hold the duck com-
fortably; a shallow roasting pan with
rack for final cooking
Sauce. Meanwhile skim the fat off the SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: Cranberry Chutney
cooking liquid in the covered casse- A 2 ½ -quart saucepan with cover, for
role, and simmer the liquid, mashing the prunes; 2 buttered jelly-roll pans, You can make chutney out of almost
in the vegetables. Then boil it down no-stick recommended, for the apples anything, it seems-mangoes,
until it is almost syrupy. Strain, peaches, apricots-and it all has a
pressing the juices out of the vege- The prunes. Simmer the prunes in the kindred sweet-and-sour taste what-
tables-you will have just enough covered pan with the wine or ver- ever the ingredients. (See also the
delicious liquid to moisten each mouth, broth, optional butter, and Cranberry Relish, page 165.)
servmg. seasonings. When the prunes are ten-
der but still hold their shape, un- For about 1 quart
cover and boil to evaporate most of
the liquid. 1 cup sliced onions
Prune and Apple Garnish 1 cup water
The roasted apples. Quarter, core, and ¾ cup dark brown sugar
A faintly sweet-and-sour yet meaty peel the apples; arrange them in one ½ cup granulated sugar
fruit garnish goes nicely indeed with layer on the jelly-roll pans. Brush ¾ cup cider vinegar
roast duck, goose, or a suckling pig, with the melted butter and sprinkle 2 Granny Smith apples, peeled,
and makes an attractive picture when with the seasonings. Bake about 20 seeded, and diced
you surround roasted apple quarters minutes in the middle level of a pre- Seasonings: ½ tsp salt, 1 tsp grated
with a heap of spiced prunes . heated 400°F oven, until tender- fresh ginger, ½ tsp each mace and
they may puff up, but will sink down curry powder
For 10 to 12 servings as they cool. The grated zest of 2 oranges
1 quart cranberries, picked over and
The prunes washed
Serv ing. Arrange the prunes and
A 2-pound package of pitted apples attractively together on a plat- ½ cup currants (small black raisins)
"tenderized" prunes ter or around the roast. Serve warm The strained juice of the 2 oranges
¾ cup dry white wine or French or cold.
vermouth Simmer the onions for 3 0 minutes
1 cup beef, chicken, or duck broth with the water and sugars. Stir in the
3 Tbs butter, optional vinegar, apples, seasonings, and
Seasonings: ½ tsp sage or thyme, a orange zest. Boil slowly 3 0 minutes
big pinch of allspice, salt and longer, then stir in the cranberries,
freshly ground pepper currants, and orange juice. Boil
slowly about 10 minutes, or until the
The apples
cranberries burst. Correct seasoning,
8 to 10 Golden Delicious or Granny
adding a little more sugar if too
Smith apples
sour-but it is a relish, and should
4 to 6 Tbs melted butter
not be too sweet.
Seasonings: 1/3 cup sugar, ½ tsp
allspice, and 1/s tsp salt, blended in
a bowl
SPECIAL DUCK RECIPES which need more cooking, are re- do not go down into the flesh or
moved and finished off in the oven juices will seep out and stain the skin
0
with a mustard and crumb coating, during roasting. Truss the ducks
nly a very young duckling while the skin is turned into savory (adapt the needle-and-string system
can be successfully roasted brown cracklings. This is a dish sure for chicken on page 162).
whole, a bird so juvenile and tender to turn any neophyte into a lifelong
it has not developed its leg muscles duck buff. Preliminary roasting-3 0 to 3 5 min-
by swimming about. That's not the utes at 350°F. Lightly oil the ducks,
kind we the public see in our mar- For 4 to 6 servings place breast-up in the pan and roast
kets. We find the more mature, 4½- in the middle level of the oven until
to 5-pound ducklings. They are still Two 4½- to 5½-pound roaster
the breast meat is just springy rather
young, but when we roast them as is ducklings
than squashy to the touch-meaning
and want rosy breast meat we get Salt
the meat is rosy and will be easy to
tough legs; if we want tender legs Thyme or sage
carve; the legs and thighs (which will
and a crisp skin, we must settle for 2 imported bay leaves
cook more later) are still firm and
an overdone breast. One solution for 1 Tbs cooking oil
very rare.
Freshly ground pepper and allspice,
whole roast duck is the preceding
steam-roast system. Another is the for cracklings
Skinning the ducks; leg and w ing re-
separated duck described here, in Final seasoning of breast slices moval. While the ducks are still
which the breast cooks one way, the 1 Tbs minced shallot or scallion warm, peel off the skin as follows:
legs another, and the skin is turned Salt and freshly ground pepper First cut a slit down the length of the
into crisp cracklings. Admittedly, ¼ to 1/3 cup Port or Madeira wine breast, then peel it down the sides of
this makes far more work for the 213 cup strong brown duck stock the breast and the thighs. Remove the
cook, but it is time well spent indeed (adapt Turkey Stock, page 173) leg-thigh sections along with the oys-
for anyone who adores duck dinners. ters of meat lodged at the small of the
For crumbing the legs
½ cup Dijon-type prepared mustard
1 cup lightly pressed down fresh
Number of servings per duck. A crumbs from homemade type
4½- to 5 ½-pound duck is too much bread with body
for two people, usually too little for 2 Tbs duck-roasting fat or butter
four, and does not always divide up
conveniently for three. In many SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
instances you'll want one duck for A cleaver; 2 roasting pans, one large
two, and count on delicious leftovers enough for 2 ducks, and one to hold the
for a cold lunch the next day. crumbed legs; a 12-inch no-stick or
enameled frying pan, for breast slices
Preparing the ducks. Chop the duck

Designer Duck wings off at the elbows and reserve
Roasted whole, separated, the legs for the duck stock; remove the wish-
crumbed bone from inside the neck cavity. In-
side each cavity sprinkle a big pinch
If you had a duck press, this would of salt, a pinch of thyme or sage, and
I . Removing duck leg-thigh section
most resemble the classic treatment. tuck in a bay leaf. Prick the skin all
The duck is roasted whole just until over on the back and sides where you
the breast meat is rare and firm see yellow fat showing through-use back and at the side of the tailpiece
enough for slicing and warming in (see illustration, step 1). Remove the
a skewer or sharp-pronged fork but
Port wine and shallots. The legs, wings also, being careful to disturb
the breast meat as little as possible;

wings have little meat, and could be
roasted with the legs, or saved for
duck stock. Peel off any remaining
skin from the legs and back, and all
visible fat.
Preparing the breast meat. Film the

frying pan with duck fat or butter;
sprinkle in half the minced shallot or
scallion. Remove the breast meat on
each side in one piece, and carve on a
slant into neat thin slices, step 2; ar-
range them slightly overlapping in
the pan. Season lightly with salt and
pepper, and sprinkle with the re-
maining shallot or scallion. Pour in
the Port or Madeira and the duck 3. Crumbing legs and wings
stock. Cover and set aside.
*Ahead-of-time note: All of the fore-

going may be completed several Designer Duck : lower left-cracklings; middle-
hours in advance. rosy slices of breast meat; upper right-roasted
legs and wings
The breast slices . Just before serv-

Finishing the ducks.
ing, bring the fr ying pan with the
duck-breast slices almost to the sim-
Roasting the legs-25 minutes at
mer, to poach the meat but keep it
400°F. Half an hour before you plan
rare and rosy. Arrange the slices on a
to serve, set the crumbed legs and
hot platter and rapidly boil down the
thighs in the upper third level of the
cooking juices until syrupy while you
oven. Roast until just tender when
arrange the legs and skin cracklings
pressed. Keep them warm in the
on the platter. Pour the pan juices
turned-off oven, its door ajar.
over the breast meat and serve at
once.
2. Carving breast meat Suggested accompaniments to roast duck:

Sauteed potatoes , or the sliced potato
Crumbing the leg-thighs. Cut galettes on page 324, and the angel-
through the knee joints to separate hair julienne of carrots and turnips
legs from thighs. Paint both with a on page 294 would complement the
thin coating of mustard, roll them in duck nicely, as would a fine red Bur-
the bread crumbs, step 3, and ar- gundy or pinot noir.
range them in a baking dish.
Sprinkle lightly with duck fat or
melted butter, and set aside .
VARIATIO NS skin. Flatten each breast slightly by

SPECIAL NOTE
pounding briefly between sheets of
You can vary the general theme of wax paper with a rubber hammer or
Turning Duck Skin into the preceding recipe in a number of pestle. Dust the meat with salt, pep-
Cracklings ways, of which here are a few ideas. per, and allspice, rub with a little
Since these make chic little main duck fat or butter; wrap and refrig-
Cut the duck skin and fat into strips courses for four, you may decide that erate until you are almost ready to
¼ inch wide. Arrange them in a your two ducks will do for two serve.
baking dish and set in a 350°F oven, meals: the breasts one evening, and
tossing occasionally, for about 3 0 the legs another day. Sauteing and serving. Heat the duck
minutes. The cracklings should be fat or butter in a 10-inch pan until
nicely browned, and their rendered very hot but not browning. Saute the
fat a clear yellow. Drain the crac- duck breasts a minute or two on each
klings on a dish lined with paper A DIFFERENT BREAST side, only until the meat is lightly
towels, and toss with a sprinkling of springy when pressed, in contrast to
salt, pepper, and allspice. Reheat Duck Breasts Sauteed: its squashy raw state. Pour in the
briefly in the oven before serving. Magrets de Canard sauce, and bring just to the simmer.
Arrange the breasts on hot plates,
*Ahead-of-time note: They keep sev- Rather than roasting and slicing the give the sauce a quick boil with the
eral days, covered, in the refrigerator breast meat, you can remove it as a chopped green peppercorns, and
and may be reheated. You may wish boneless and skinless morsel, and spoon it over the duck breasts.
to chop them for sprinkling on sal- saute it. If you have traveled in
ads, over scrambled eggs, etc. France the last few years, you will Suggested accompaniments to sauteed
have found magret in even quite duck breasts. Any of the accompani-
modest restaurants, since now anyone ments suggested in this section, in-
can buy packaged breasts from foie- cluding fresh green peas, your own
gras ducks in the super-marches- home-made beautifully buttered
they are almost always large and mashed potatoes, and a fine red Bor-
rather tough. The smaller and ten- deaux or cabernet.
derer breasts from roaster ducklings
are far superior, and make a beautiful
main course for four.
VAR IATI ONS ON THE LEG-THIGH THEME
For 4 servings The Con.fit

Cutting skin into strips for cracklings
4 skinless and boneless duck breasts
Seasonings: salt, freshly ground Rather than roasting the leg-thighs,
Rendered Duck Fat pepper, and allspice simmer them in duck fat-this is in
2 to 3 Tbs duck fat or clarified butter fact an old-world method for goose
Strain the clear yellow fat from the (page 139) and duck that is easy, delicious, and
cracklings into a jar, where it will Several spoonfuls of sauce (see renders out excess fat while crisping
keep for weeks in the refrigerator- Special Note, page 182) the skin. (If you have made duck
save for such operations as sauteing ½ Tbs chopped green peppercorns cracklings, or if you have steam-
potatoes, basting roast poultry, or for roasted a duck or a goose, you may
the confit in the following variation Preparing the duck breasts. Cut close have plenty of fine clear fat for a
recipe. against the length of the breastbone confit.)
on each side of the duck, and remove
the breast-wings. Cut off the wing, Season 4 duck leg-thighs with salt,
and scrape the breast meat from the pepper, and allspice, cover, and let
steep for an hour or more. Heat in a from the carcass; keeping the leg-
saucepan with duck fat and/or fresh thighs attached, remove the thigh
oil to cover by ½ inch, and maintain bones. Cut along the length of the
the fat temperature at 27 5°F to breastbone on each side; disjoint the
3 00°F for 3 0 to 40 minutes, until the wing from the shoulder as you remove
meat is tender when pressed-the the breast meat from the carcass.
skin should color slowly and evenly
but the fat should never turn more
than a deep yellow. Drain on paper
towels and keep warm until serving
time.
Steam-Roasted Leg-Thighs
In this method the leg-thighs are

1. Scraping fat off duck skin
steamed ½ hour to melt out most of Crisp Parcels of Duck
the excess fat, then roasted until the
flesh is tender and the skin crisp. Removing excess fat. You want the skin
Follow the recipe for steam-roasted Crisp Parcels of Duck to remain whole so you can form the
whole duck, and since this also man- packets in the next step. Leaving the
ufactures its own sauce, adjust the In this ingenious roasting system the flesh attached to the drumsticks, pull
master recipe accordingly. leg-thighs and wing-breasts are par- and scrape it up from its skin, step 1.
tially boned, skewered, and slow- Do the same for the breast meat,
roasted to render out fat before being freeing it from its skin but leaving it
crisped under the broiler. attached to the wing. Scrape excess
Ragout with a Fondue fat from inside the skin, particularly
For 4 servings around the thighs and knees.
of Onions
A 4½- to 5-pound roaster duckling
After steaming the leg-thighs as in
the preceding recipe, brown them in
pepper, thyme, and allspice
a frying pan. Then add 4 cups of
1 each medium onion and carrot,
sliced onions, cover the pan, and
roughly chopped
cook slowly for 20 to 3 0 minutes,
1 cup duck stock
until tender. Deglaze with dry white 1/3 cup Port or Madeira wine
French vermouth and duck stock,
seasoning with a few drops of red SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
wine vinegar and Port wine. Tender A stout boning knife; small steel skewers
and tasty, and especially recom- ( aluminum skewers are no good: they 2 . Skewering the parcels
mended when you are serving legs bend); white cotton string; a roasting
only but want something informal to pan that will hold the duck easily, and Seasoning and trussing. Season the
go with beans or rice. An attractive a shallow pan for broiling duck flesh with a sprinkling of salt,
salad to go with this would be the pepper, thyme, and allspice . Leaving
hearts of curly endive with garlic Boning the duck. Slit the duck skin the leg and wing bones free, bring
dressing and a sprinkling of duck down the back from neck to tail. the skin around to enclose the flesh,
cracklings described on page 18 0 . From inside the neck cavity remove step 2. Skewer and tie in place to
the wishbone. Disjoint the leg-thighs make a neat parcel of each.
Crisp Parcels of Duck (continued) pan and pour in the sauce. Boil it
rapidly, scraping up and mixing in SPECIAL NOTE
Slow roasting-about 1¼ hours at coagulated juices as the sauce reduces
2 75°F. Arrange the duck parcels and thickens slightly. Pour it into a A Little Sauce for Duck
skewered side up in a roasting pan hot sauce bowl, and serve. Sauce Ragout
and surround with the chopped vege-
tables. Roast in the upper middle Suggested accompaniments: fresh aspar- Chop up the gizzard and carcass of a
level, basting several times with ac- agus tips or broccoli florets and pota- boned duck and brown in a frying
cumulated fat. Occasionally remove toes scalloped in cream ( page 323) pan with a little rendered duck f~t or
excess fat from the pan with a bulb go beautifully with roast duck or the oil, adding a sliced carrot and omon.
baster. After 1¼ hours, remove the crisp parcels of duck, as would a ro-
breast-wing pieces, and continue with bust zinfandel. Transfer with a slotted spoon to a
the leg-thighs for another 3 0 min- saucepan, toss with 1½ tablespoons
utes, or until tender when pressed. of flour, and brown lightly over mod-
Arrange the duck pieces skewered erately high heat, tossing frequently
VARIATION
side up in a shallow pan, remove for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from
trussing paraphernalia, and set the heat. Pour cooking fat out of the
duck aside.
Duck-Leg Mousse
frying pan in which you browned the
Cuisses de Caneton en Cotelettes
duck carcass, pour in 1 cup of
The sauce. Strain the roasting liquid chicken stock, and simmer, scraping
The final leg-thigh solution sounds
into a saucepan, pressing juices out of the brown residue into the liquid; stir
more elegant in French, or you could
the vegetables. Degrease thoroughly, the liquid into the saucepan, blending
be utterly non-elitist and call them
then add the duck stock and wine; smoothly with the browned flour.
duckburgers.
boil down until well reduced and full Add ½ cup of dry white French ver-
of flavor. mouth, a small crushed clove of un-
Bone out the leg-thighs and puree the
peeled garlic, a small chopped
meat in a food processor with 1 cup
*Ahead-of-time note: May be com- unpeeled tomato, and water to cover
of cooked sliced onions and dollops of
pleted somewhat ahead; set duck aside ingredients by ½ inch.
cream-the puree should just hold its
at room temperature.
shape in a spoon. Season with salt,
Bring to the simmer, skimming ?ff
pepper, allspice, and thyme . Forr:n
Finishing the duck. Just before serv- gray scum that will continue to nse
into pear-shaped patties about 5/s mch
ing, brown and crisp both sides of for a few minutes; cover loosely and
thick, dredge in flour, and saute 4 to
the duck briefly under the broiler. simmer 1½ hours. Strain, pressing
5 minutes each side in rendered duck
Arrange the pieces best side up on a juices out of ingredients, degrease,
fat or clarified butter. Serve with a
hot platter; cover and keep warm . and correct seasoning•
deglazing sauce made from the pan
while you skim fat out of the roastmg
juices-a little finely minced chutney
You should have about 1 cup of fine,
goes nicely in the sauce here.
strong, lightly thickened sauce.
When cool, cover and refrigerate;
Suggested accompaniments: golden
lift any congealed fat from the sur-
puree (carrots and potatoes, page
face of the sauce before serving.
2 8 5) or one of the scalloped potato
dishes starting on page 3 2 2' buttered
fresh green beans, and a mellow red
wine, such as a merlot.
FRESH FOIE GRAS worry because they hardly show

when the liver is sauteed.) Chill the
liver for ease in slicing, next step.
Sauteed Scallops of Fresh Slicing the liver. With a sharp knife,

Duck Foie Gras dipped in boiling water for each
With hearts of curly endive and slice, cut the chilled liver into 24
cracklings
fairly even slices about 1 by 2 inches
and ¼ inch thick . Lay them on an
Fresh duck foie gras, those very spe-
oiled baking sheet. Dust lightly with
cial pale large duck livers so famous Fresh American duck foie gras
the seasonings and droplets of Port
in Europe, are now available in this
wine on one side; turn (dry your fin-
country-at a hefty price, as is the For 12 servings, 2 sauteed slices per gers!) and season the other side.
case with this great delicacy, wher- person Cover and chill at least 20 minutes,
ever you buy it (see illustration). The
or until cooking time. (The liver is
following recipe makes a small but 1 whole fresh "Number 1 quality"
chilled so a minimum of fat will ex-
most elegant first course, which you fresh duck foie gras ( 1 ¼ to 1½
ude during cooking.)
could serve with a glass of Port wine , pounds)
or a fine Sauternes, or an excellent Seasonings: 1 tsp salt, 1/s tsp freshly
Sauteing the Joie gras-2 to 3 minutes.
merlot or pinot noir. ground white pepper, and a
Your guests are at the table. Have
medium pinch of allspice, blended
Jf your
your plates warm but not hot, your
WHERE TO BUY FOIE GRAS. in a bowl
toast in place upon them, and your
specialty market, great restaurant, or Droplets of Port wine
salad dressed and sprinkled with the
the poultry section of the yellow pages Triangles of toasted white sandwich
optional cracklings. Film the frying
cannot help you, here is one producer bread, 2 per person
pan or pans with a 1/1 6-inch layer of
that supplies most of the country at this The tender leaves near the heart of
duck fat or clarified butter and heat
w riting: curly endive, tossed just before
to very hot but not burning. Rapidly
Commonwealth Enterprises,Ltd. serving in light olive oil, salt,
saute the foie gras slices less than a
P. 0. Box 4 9, M ongaup Valley, NY pepper, and droplets of raspberry
minute on each side, just to brown
12762 vinegar-a handful per person
them around the edges. Arrange
Telephone: (914) 583-6630 1 cup duck cracklings (page 180),
them as done at the edge of the sal-
optional
A BOOK ON FOIE GRAS. The only Eng- ads , and serve with all possible
Rendered -duck fat (page 180) or
lish-language book I know of on Foie speed.
clarified butter
Gras, and a fully authoritative treatise
it is, is written by an expert from that SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
region, and I highly recommend it now 1 or 2 cast-iron or heavy cast-
that we have our own production: Foie aluminum frying pans for sauteing the
Gras, Magret, and Other Good Food Joie gras
from Gascony, by Andre Daguin and
Anne de Ravel (New York: Random Preparing the Joie gras. Soak the foie
House, 1988). gras in a bowl of lightly salted water
for ½ hour or so, until it has soft-
ened enough so that you can gently
pull the 2 lobes apart. Carefully pull
out the bits of fat and red veins
lodged between the lobes. (It is diffi-
cult to get all the veins out; do not
STUFFINGS FOR pan. In it saute the onions until ten- VARIATION
POULTRY AND der-5 to 6 minutes; add the celery

and saute 2 minutes more. Blend the When stuffing a turkey or chicken
VEGETABLES
onions and celery with the sausage with either of the two preceding for-
meat, adding the crumbled corn- mulae, puree any raw scraps of the
M ost of the stuffings here

may be used for vege-
tables as well as poultry, and for
bread, white crumbs, and eggs. Sea-
son nicely to taste, and fold in the
melted butter.
meat in a food processor or blender
with the 2 eggs listed, and fold into
the bowl with the rest of the ingredi-
ents. The raw meat lightly binds the
goose and duck as well as turkey and
stuffing together.
chicken.
Savory Sausage and

Crouton Stuffing
Mushroom Duxelles Stuffing
ESPECIALLY FOR TURKEY
For about 2 ½ quarts, enough for a 12-
AND ROASTING CHICKENS Minced mushrooms with onions
to 14-pound turkey '
chicken breasts, and sour cream. The
2 quarts diced homemade type white recipe is in the Special Note on page
bread 160, where it is suggested for boned
Cornbread, Sage, and 1 pound sausage meat turkey, and would do well also for
Sausage Stuffing 4 or more Tbs butter, as needed chicken, or veal, and for stuffed
3 cups diced onions on10ns.
For 2 to 2½ quarts, enough for a 14- 3 cups diced celery
to 16-pound turkey 2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 pound sausage meat
2 cups chopped onions
pepper, and sage Ham and Bread Crumb
1 ½ cups chopped celery stalks Stuffing
To make croutons, spread the bread
5 cups crumbled yellow cornbread (a
cubes in a large baking pan and toast To be braised in a whole cabbage or
box-label recipe is fine here or see
20 to 30 minutes in a 350°F oven, cabbage leaves.
page 344)
tossing occasionally, until lightly
1 cup lightly packed crumbs from
browned. Meanwhile, break up the For about 4 cups
fresh homemade type white bread
sausage meat and saute several min-
2 eggs, lightly beaten 1 medium onion, roughly chopped
utes in a frying pan, until the color
Salt and freshly ground pepper A 1 ½-inch cube of Swiss or
changes from reddish to gray. Drain,
1 Tbs sage, or to taste Cheddar cheese, roughly diced
return the fat to the pan , and turn the
4 ounces ( 1 stick) melted butter 2 cups or so scraps or pieces of ham,
sausage into a large mixing bowl,
trimmed of fat
breaking it up again into small bits.
Break up the sausage meat and saute 2 eggs
Add enough butter to the frying pan
in a frying pan for several minutes, 1 large clove of garlic, pureed
to make about ½ cup combined with
until the color changes from reddish 1½ cups crumbs from fresh home-
the sausage fat. In it saute the onions
to gray. Scrape into a large mixing made type white bread
until tender and translucent, then add
bowl, leaving the fat in the frying Seasonings: salt, freshly ground
the celery and saute 2 to 3 minutes
pepper, and thyme or sage
more. Turn into the bowl, blend in
the eggs, and toss in the croutons.
Season carefully to taste.
Drop the onion into the food proces- ESPECIALLY FOR GOOSE and tossing to blend. Taste very care-
sor and chop into ¼-inch pieces with fully, adding salt, pepper, and sage,
several on-off pulses. Add the cheese to make a perfectly seasoned
and the ham to the onion, and chop dressing.
them with 5 or 6 pulses; pulse in the Prune and Apple Stuffing
eggs and garlic, then the crumbs. with Sausage *Ahead-of-time note: If you are mak-
Season nicely to taste. ing the dressing ahead, the apples
For about 12 cups, enough for a 10- to and crumbs won't stand up: omit
12-pound goose them until later. Just before stuffing,
1 pound sausage meat saute the apples in a little butter, and
Rice and Giblet Stuffing add them to the stuffing along with
4 cups chopped onions
A little butter-if needed for onion the toasted crumbs.
For about 8 cups
saute
4 cups diced onions 3 cups chopped celery
1 turkey or chicken gizzard, peeled 2 Granny Smith apples, peeled,
and chopped cored, and chopped Prune and Liver Pate
4 Tbs butter 3 cups pitted "tenderized" prunes Stuffing, to Accompany
3 cups diced celery ½ cup dry white French vermouth Goose or Duck
1 turkey heart or 2 chicken hearts, 3 cups toasted crumbs from
minced homemade type white bread Enough to accompany a 10-pound goose
1 whole turkey liver or 2 chicken 3 eggs, lightly beaten The goose or duck liver, finely
livers Seasonings: salt, freshly ground minced
5 cups cooked rice pepper, and about 1 tsp ground 2 Tbs minced shallots
2 eggs sage 2 Tbs goose or duck fat, or butter
1½ cups chopped fresh parsley ½ cup Port wine
Seasonings: salt, freshly ground Preliminary saute. Break up the sau- 4 ounces(½ cup) canned foie gras or
pepper, and sage sage meat and brown lightly in the best-quality liver pate
frying pan, continuing to break it up ¼ cup fine crumbs from fresh home-
Cook the onions and gizzard in the as it cooks. Remove with a slotted made type white bread
butter 10 minutes, or until the onions spoon to a large mixing bowl. Saute Seasonings: about a pinch each of
are tender. Stir in the celery, minced the onions in the sausage fat, adding allspice, thyme, salt, and freshly
heart(s) and whole liver(s). Saute, butter if needed, and when tender ground pepper
tossing, for 2 to 3 minutes, until the fold in the celery; saute slowly 4 50 large pitted "tenderized" prunes
liver feels lightly springy. Remove minutes, folding, then turn in the
the liver, chop it, and toss it in a apples and saute 4 minutes more. Saute the liver and shallots in fat or
bowl with the other sauteed ingredi- Turn into the mixing bowl. butter for 1 minute. Scrape into a
ents. Blend in the rice, eggs, and mixing bowl. Pour the wine into the
parsley; season carefully to taste. The prunes. While the onions, etc., saute pan and boil down_rapidly to 1
are cooking, quarter the prunes, and tablespoon; scrape into the liver. Beat
simmer slowly in a saucepan with the in the foie gras or pate and bread
vermouth, tossing and turning fre- crumbs. Season carefully. Spoon ½
quently until the liquid is absorbed- teaspoon into each prune.
about 5 minutes. Add to the mixing
bowl.
Finishing the stuffing. Fold the crumbs

and eggs into the stuffing, turning
OTHER STUFFINGS Soak the bulgur in the hot water 5 Rice and Onions with
minutes, or until barely tender. Cheese
Drain, squeeze dry, and toss with the
rest of the ingredients. Season care- For the onion-stuffed braised onions
Sweet Italian Sausage, fully to taste. on page 3 03, but it could stuff other
Parsley, and Crumbs vegetables as well, such as zucchini
A carnivorous variation. Add 1 cup of or tomatoes .
Sweet Italian sausage and sauteed on- chopped boiled ham.
ions blended with bread crumbs,
parsley, and sour cream-this is used
on page 15 5 to stuff chicken breasts, Sausage and Swiss Chard
or would be an excellent stuffing for Ground Beef with Ham, Stuffing
onions, tomatoes, zucchini, and other Olives, and Pine Nuts
vegetables. This colorful green stuffing ( page
This stuffing was designed for the 2 5 0) is used for the braised Stuffed
flank steak on page 246, and is also Breast of Veal on page 248. Although
good for stuffed cabbage leaves or on- spinach may replace chard, chard
Bulgur and Mushroom ions. For about 2 cups of stuffing, · leaves are really better since they hold
Vegetarian Stuffing mix 1 ½ cups of hamburger with 3 their color more effectively. You
Also for stuffed cabbage tablespoons each of chopped boiled could also use it to stuff a whole head
ham, black olives, chopped pine nuts of cabbage ( page 3 04), or for
2 cups bulgur (cracked wheat- or almonds, and grated hard cheese, Braised Flank Steak ( page 246).
available in health food stores) plus 1 egg, a large clove of pureed
2 quarts hot water garlic, 1 teaspoon of salt, several
1½ cups mirepoix ( 1 cup each: diced grinds of pepper, and ¼ teaspoon of
carrots, onions, and celery, ground rosemary or thyme.
cooked in 4 Tbs butter, see
Special Note, page 297)
1 cup chopped raisins
1 egg Duck-Leg Mousse
½ cup ricotta or cream cheese
Flavorings: salt, freshly ground In this recipe on page 182, the
pepper, freshly squeezed lemon mousse is sauteed as patties, but it
juice, and mint or thyme could well be used to stuff vegetables.
Meat
Sautes and Pan-Fries
Roasts, Braises, Stews, and Ragouts
Steaks, Chops, Burgers,

Butterflied Legs,
and Marvelous Miscellaneous
Mixtures
The meat chapter, perhaps more than the world a French pate minus the ci ples are the same, and if you can
any other in this book, best illustrates wine and truffies. roast one, you can roast the other.
the way to cook, the way to learn, and Thus, meat fits the pattern of Thus all items that cook alike
the way to think about cooking. theme and variations wonderfully stay together-as far as feasible and
Veal chops and pork chops are well, and with that attitude in mind, sensible. The idea, as usual in this
sauteed like first. cousins, a butterflied meat cookery makes sense. Of book, is to make method make sense:
loin of pork and a butterflied leg of course, a leg of lamb is prepared for a roast is a roast is a roast, in other
lamb roast almost alike, hamburgers roasting in a different way from roast words, whether it be pork, ham, or
and lamburgers pan fry like sisters, ribs of beef because one is a leg and beef. However, everything is listed
and an American meat loaf is for all the other a rib, but the general prin- by specific beast in the index.
A NOTE ON MEAT the official name, but there could be

TERMINOLOGY no mistaking that this is that triangu- SPECIAL NOTE
lar piece of meat on top of the shoul-
The fat-free cooking of
I
der blade, opposite the mock tender.
t would certainly help us nation- meats on cast-iron grills
wide if every state legislature We Americans are a mobile lot, and a
passed and enforced a law saying that Chicagoan is lost in a New York meat
all meat markets, butchers, wholesal- market, as would a New Yorker be in
ers, and so forth must adopt the stan- Massachusetts, Illinois, or Califor-
dard nomenclatures for meat cuts that nia. We must all urge our state legis-
have been agreed upon by a national lators, newspapers, food writers, and
group of packers, processors, and purveyors to adopt-and enforce-
markets under the auspices of the this uniform system. Otherwise it is
National Live Stock and Meat Board impossible to communicate nation-
in Chicago. ally, and we shall continue to be one
mighty nation-divisible by its meat
At this writing the Meat Board tells cuts. Cast-iron stove-top grill
me that 9 states are considering such
a law, that in 10 states the standard A cast-iron meat grill is an alterna-
nomenclature is voluntary, and that tive to sauteing and broiling. They
11 states have actually passed a law. TWO USEFUL BOOKS FOR come in various styles, but all are es-
However, it is not always enforced, YOUR BUTCHER AND sentially heavy rectangles with a
and one of the most serious lawbreak- YOU washboard surface of raised iron
ers is the great State of New York- ridges. The grill fits over either an
especially serious because New York electric or a gas burner. You heat up
City is the center of the food maga- Uniform R etail Meat Identity Stan- the grill, lightly oil the surface of
zine and cookbook publishing dards. This is the fully illustrated of- your meat, and you have an indoor
industry. ficial industrywide cooperative meat barbecue right on top of the stove.
identification handbook, published by All the cooking fat falls between the
Even the presumably careful New the National Live Stock and Meat iron ridges, and you have practically
York Times, for example, recently in- Board. fat-free cooking of your steak, chop,
structed its readers to buy "1 pound or hamburger. You'll find these grills
of veal shoulder fillet" -and what The Meat Board Guide to Identifying in many of the cookware catalogues
could that possibly be? The "mock Meat Cuts. A fine pocket-size pam ph- and gourmet shops.
tender" lodged atop one side of the let for the home cook. Illustrated
shoulder blade? The shoulder end of with color photographs , it names and Timing and sauce notes. Timing is the
the rib eye? Who indeed knows, ex- pictures all of the standard cuts, same as for pan frying. If you want
cept perhaps a neighborhood New along with descriptions and basic extra flavoring, anoint the grilled
York City butcher? On the other cooking methods. (Under $2.00) steaks with one of the flavored butters
hand what, for instance, is a "lifter described on page 193, or rub the
steak" or a "puff roast"? Both of these are available through: surface with salt, freshly ground pep-
per, butter, and perhaps a sprinkling
You would know, and everybody in The Department of Merchandizing of thyme or Proven~al seasoning.
the nation would know, if it carried The National Live Stock and Meat
its official name on its label: "Beef Board
Chuck: Top Blade Roast." Its fanciful 36 South Wabash Avenue
puff roast alias could be listed under Chicago, Illinois 60603
JAXO~in, ''."'r:3 /'PEA LIBRAR'(

./ui Jdv1,J, PA 16056
:JI·
JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK MEAT 191
Steak types. Assuming that you are porterhouse. Or cut the eye of meat
planning on the best, pick a boneless out of the rib steak and you have a
SAUTES AND PAN-FRIES
steak no more than 1½ inches rib-eye or Delmonico steak. Or use
thick- I inch is ideal-from the the tender loin butt portion of the
S auteing or pan frying, which-

ever you wish to call the pro-
cess, is certainly the quickest and
rib, loin, sirloin, or tenderloin.
Steaks from the chuck and round can
also be excellent, but it takes a
knowledgeable professional or home
sirloin.
easiest way to cook a steak or a chop,

butcher to choose them. Bone-in
and it has the happy advantage of
steaks are for broiling, like the T-
practically making its own simple
bone, porterhouse , rib, and
and delicious sauce from the juices
wedgebone steaks.
left in the pan. Here we have beef
steaks, pork and veal chops, veal
scallops, ham steaks, calf's liver, and
the all-American hamburger.
Steak cuts: Bone-in rib steak
The best beefsteaks
HOW TO BUY A GOOD PIECE OF MEAT.

Although the days of the personal
butcher who cuts up his own whole beef
carcass are fast disappearing, you can Steak cuts: Porterhouse steak
still get personal ser-vice at the super-

market. Introduce y ourself to the head
butcher and ask his_.:_or her-advice .
Butchers like to be recognized and con-
sulted, if you don't take up too much of Steak cuts: Bone-in sirloin, left; boneless sirloin,
right
their time. It's a wise idea to learn all
you can about meat cuts, too, so that you
will know whereof they speak.
Quality. The color of the meat Steak cuts: T-bone steak

should be a healthy, deep red with
firm , creamy yellow fat. A certain
amount of marbling-creamy yellow Steak cuts. Not counting the
streaks of fat in the flesh-ver y tenderloin , which follows later in its
much enhances its flavor, but raises own category, my favorite steak for Top-loin steak: untrimmed, right; trimmed, center;
the fat content. Personally I do not go sauteing is the top loin ; that is, the trimmings, left
in for diet meat on those gala larger side of the T-bone and the
occasions when I have a steak: either
it's the best and most beautiful, or it's
no steak at all for me.
Frozen steaks ~ MASTER RECIPE
Frozen steaks are frowned upon by Sauteed Beefsteaks

some purists, but I always keep a
couple on hand in my freezer and For 6 servings
haven't had a raised eyebrow yet at
2 Tbs or so butter
the table. The secrets are not to keep
2 tsp or so light olive oil or peanut oil
them too long-4 weeks maximum is
6 beefsteaks 1 inch thick, top loin
my limit-and to maintain the
suggested but any other steak cut
freezer temperature at minus 5°F or
will do, prepared as described Testing <loneness by pressing meat
lower. Let them defrost slowly but
only partially in the refrigerator (or
in the microwave, watching closely). SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: Deglazing Sauce with Red
Then, to prevent juice loss, plan to 2 frying pans for the steaks ( I like no- or White Wine
cook them when the outside has soft- stick here, as usual)
ened somewhat, and the inside has
This is the very fast finish to any
softened just enough to bend a little. Film the pans with 1/16 inch of butter saute from fish to fowl to good red
and oil, then set over high heat, meat, and always deliciously in char-
PREPARING A STEAK FOR COOKING. swirling the pans to distribute the acter with the specific dish of the
Trim off all excess fat, including, if you butter over the surface until its foam moment.
wish, the strip offat around the circum- begins to subside. Lay in the steaks,
ference. Top loins have a line of gristle which should fit in one layer with ¼ For 6 steaks, a spoonful of sauce for
between fat and meat ( upper right-hand to ½ inch between each. Saute 1½ each
section in the T-bone and porterhouse il- minutes, turn, and saute about 1½
lustrations); either trim it off or cut minutes on the other side. 2 Tbs minced shallots or scallions
through it vertically at ½ -inch inter- 1 cup dry white wine, French
vals. The gristle is tough, and, if left When are they done? Test a steak by vermouth, or red wine
on, it will curl a thin steak out of shape pressing the meat (see illustration). ¼ cup beef or chicken stock,
during cooking. Dry the steaks in paper They are red rare, saignant, when optional
towels . Then I like to brush each side barely springy to the touch, in con- 2 to 3 Tbs butter
with a film of light olive oil; I feel it trast to their squashy raw state. They 2 Tbs minced fresh parsley, optional
seals in the juices, as well as preventing are medium rare, a point, a few sec-
the steak from sticking to the pan . onds later, when a pearling of red After removing the sauteed meat
juice just begins to appear on the sur- from the pan, pour out most of the
*Ahead-of-Time Nate: May be pre- face. Season lightly with salt and saute fat, leaving a good teaspoon for
pared a day in advance; wrap in plas- freshly ground pepper, and remove flavor. Turn the minced shallots or
tic and refrigerate. Dry off again at once to hot plates or a hot platter. scallions into the pan and stir over
before cooking. Either degrease the saute juices and moderate heat for a moment. Then
pour over the steaks, giving but a de- pour in the wine and optional stock,
licious dribble per serving, or make and scrape about to loosen coagulated
the following quick and classic de-·
glazing sauce.
saute juice. Boil down over high heat

for a minute or so, until the liquid is
almost syrupy. Remove from heat
and add a tablespoon of the butter,
swirling the pan until the butter is
absorbed before adding another table-
spoon, step 1. Sprinkle in the op-
tional parsley, pour over the steaks,
step 2, and serve.
I . Swirling in the butter 2. Pouring sauce over steak
Flavored Butter Toppings

For steaks, chops, hamburgers, broiled Maitre d'Hotel Butter
fish, pastas, and to beat into sauces SPECIAL N OTE
For about ½ cup, enough for 6 to 8

Simple to make, and especially rec- To Cream Butter steaks
ommended for steaks on the barbecue
or the stove-top grill, flavored butters If the butter is at room temperature, 4 ounces (1 stick) butter, creamed
consist of soft butter into which you beat it vigorously in a roomy bowl 1 Tbs freshly squeezed lemon juice
beat anything you wish, such as the with a wooden spoon until it is soft 2 to 3 Tbs minced fresh parsley
classic combination of lemon juice, and fluffy. (You can use a hand-held 1 Tbs very finely minced shallot or
shallots, and parsley-which is al- mixer, but it's such a nuisance to scallion
ways delicious on a steak. Or you scrape the butter out of the blades!) Salt and freshly ground white pepper
might switch to mustard and pureed If you need only a small amount and
garlic, or include whatever items are SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
the butter is chilled, melt it , then
in fashion at the moment, such as A 2-quart mixing bowl and w ooden
beat it over a bowl of ice and water,
chili pepper, pureed pimiento, gin- spoon; a rubber spatula
where it will quite rapidly congeal
ger, exotic herbs, and so forth. Fla- and become soft and creamy. Ice is a
vored butter can also be beaten into a The mixture. Beat the butter in the
good solution, too , for butter you
deglazing sauce instead of plain bowl, adding the lemon juice ¼ tea-
have softened too much. For a large
butter. spoon at a time. Beat in the parsley,
amount, cut the butter into ½ -inch
shallot or scallion, and salt and pep-
slices and whiz it in the food proces- -
per to taste.
sor, adding the required flavorings as
you go.
Serving. Either spread the butter
over each steak, or plop on a lump,
or pass the butter separately. Or form
it into a log or a rectangle, chill, then
cut into serving-size disks or slices.
*Ahead-of-time note: May be covered

and refrigerated; may be frozen.
VA RIATI ONS: ALTER NATE FLAVORINGS TENDERLOIN STEAKS Sauteing the steaks. Dry the steaks in
paper towels. Set the pan over high
Although tenderloins saute the same heat and film with 1/16 inch of the
Mustard Butter. Substitute 1 table- way as other steaks, they are in their butter ( or butter and oil). When very
spoon or so of prepared Dijon-type own luxury category and deserve spe- hot but not browning,. lay in the
mustard for the lemon juice in the cial consideration. The tenderloin is steaks. Saute for 2 minutes on one
· preceding recipe. the left-hand side of the porterhouse side, turn, salt lightly, and saute on
in our illustration on page 191; you'll the other side, adjusting heat so the
Garlic Butter. Puree 1 or 2 large note how much smaller it is in the T- steaks are not browning too much.
cloves of garlic into the mixing bowl bone. The smallest tenderloins are
and mash to a fine paste with ¼ tea- called filet mignons, the T-bone size When are they done? Tenderloins are
spoon of salt. Beat in the butter, here is a fillet steak, while the largest harder to judge than other steaks be-
lemon juice, and herbs. porterhou~e size is the Chateau- cause they are so much more tender,
briand , the heart of the tenderloin. and an extra few seconds can over-
0 ther herbs can be added, such as 1 For best taste and texture, look for cook them. For rosy rare they will
tablespoon or so of tarragon, or cher- lightly marbled meat from prime and have taken on a little texture and
vil, or ground rosemary, or chives, choice cuts of beef-if you are going spring when pressed with your fin-
plus the lemon juice, shallots, and to spend all that money, pick a ger; if you have any doubts, cut into
seasonmgs . butcher who caters to the carriage one. As soon as they are done, re-
trade. move them to hot plates or a hot
R ed- or White-Wine Butter. Boil ½ platter.
cup of wine with the minced shallots
and an imported bay leaf until re- Sauce and serving suggestions. Sauce
duced to 1 tablespoon; let cool. Beat Sauteed Beef Tenderloin them with any of the preceding sug-
it into the butter, along with salt, Steaks gestions for beefsteaks, or be rich
pepper, and herbs to taste. and elegant with the Bearnaise sauce
For 6 servings on page 87, which you could spoon
into individual artichoke bottoms
6 ready-to-cook tenderloin steaks
( page 2 81) or scooped-out tomato
about ½ pound each and 1 ¼ to
halves. The potato galettes on page
1 ½ inches thick
3 24 and a green vegetable like aspar-
2 to 3 Tbs clarified butter (page 139),
agus tips or broccoli would go well,
or 2 Tbs butter and 1 Tbs peanut
as would a mature red wine like a Ca-
oil
bernet sauvignon or Bordeaux-
St. Emilion.
A heavy frying pan that will just hold
the steaks comfortably, no-stick
recommended
A Fast Saute of Beef The sauce

for Two 2 Tbs minced shallots or scallions
With small onions, mushrooms, 1/3 cup dry French vermouth
and sauteed potatoes % cup beef or chicken stock

1/3 cup heavy cream (or½ cup stock
This is an almost complete main blended with ½ Tbs cornstarch)

course with a certain jazzy style,
something to keep in mind for a Other ingredients
rather important and intimate occa- Salt and freshly ground pepper
sion when you are in a hurry but Butter and light olive oil or peanut
1. Piercing cross in root end of an onion
want a good meal. If you had time oil
beforehand you could trim the meat
and ready the vegetables. But when
you are an informal twosome, why 2 frying pans, 10-inch size, no-stick
recommended; a 2-quart covered sauce-
not prepare the whole meal while
pan; a side dish
having meaningful conversations and
aperitifs together in the kitchen?
The onions. Drop the onions into boil-
MANUFACTURING NOTE. You can do ing water for 1 minute. Drain. Shave
everything in one 10-inch frying pan if skin from the tip and root ends, then
you're cramped for space, but a reason- slip off the remaining skins. Pierce a
ably fast well-equipped cook starting cross ¼ inch deep in the root ends,
from scratch and juggling all pans at for even cooking, step 1. Simmer 2 . Dicing the potatoes
once can complete this dish in less than slowly in the covered saucepan with
½ hour. With a few minutes to spare, the stock, herbs, and a little salt until
one cook can finish off the whole meal, tender-about 20 minutes. Mean-
but a friendly hand is always welcome. while, continue with the rest of the
items.
A menu for 2 people
The potatoes. Peel the potatoes and cut
The onions into ¾-inch slices; cut the slices into
6 to 8 small white onions about 1 ¼-inch strips, and cut the strips into
inch in diameter cubes as illustrated, step 2. Dry the
½ cup chicken stock potatoes. Set one of the frying pans
A pinch of tarragon or mixed herbs over high heat, add 1 tablespoon each 3. Preparing the mushrooms
The potatoes of butter and oil, and when the butter

foam has almost subsided, add the
3 or 4 medium "boiling" potatoes The mushrooms. Trim ¼ inch off the
potatoes. Saute without disturbing for
A pinch of tarragon or mixed herbs stems of the mushrooms and either
1 minute, swirl the pan by its handle
3 Tbs minced fresh parsley wipe the caps clean with a towel or
to toss them, and leave for another
The mushrooms minute-to sear them. Season lightly wash them rapidly, if dirty, and dry
6 to 8 large fresh mushrooms with salt and pepper, and saute over them. Quarter them as shown, step
1 Tbs minced shallot or scallion moderate heat, tossing fairly fre- 3. Saute several minutes in hot butter
quently, for about 15 minutes. When in your second frying pan, adding
The meat the shallots or scallions at the end,
lightly browned and tender, keep
2 center-cut beef tenderloin steaks them just warm, uncovered, over a just as the absorbed butter reappears
1½ inches thick, or the equivalent pan of barely simmering water. on their surface and they begin to
cut from a piece of tenderloin brown.
4. Trimming and cubing the tenderloin , upper left , 5. Turning out sauteed mushrooms into a side dish 6. Sauteing the beef
and the steak, lower right
7. Wine and stock go into pan. 8. Basting 9 . Adding potatoes-the finale
A Fast Saute of Beef for Two (continued ) several minutes, step 6, until barely *Ahead-of-time note: You may finish
springy when pressed-the beef the dish in advance to this point.
The meat. Whether you are using must be very rare because it gets a When you're about ready to eat, re-
steaks or a piece of tenderloin, both little more cooking later. Toss it with heat the meat, basting-be careful
of which are shown in this succulent a sprinkling of salt, and scrape it into not to overcook.
display, step 4, cut off outside fat and the dish with the mushrooms.
slice the meat into 1 ½-inch chunks. Serv ing. Toss the potatoes over high
Dry them well before sauteing . The sauce. Spoon all but a tablespoon heat to crisp, adding a tablespoon of
of fat out of the pan, stir in the butter, the herbs, and parsley. Strew
Midway point. Everything is cooking minced shallots or scallions, and the potatoes over the meat, step 9,
at once except for the meat, which is saute a moment; then pour in the and serve.
lying in wait. The onions are sim- wine, the stock, and any juices from
mering away in their saucepan; the the onions, step 7. Boil rapidly and
pqtatoes are sauteing. When the let reduce almost to a syrup before VA RIATION
mushrooms are done, turn them into adding the optional cream (or the
a side dish, step 5. stock/ cornstarch) . S aute of Pork Tenderloin
Sauteing the meat. Set the mushroom Final simmering. Scrape the beef, on- Substitute pork tenderloin for beef,
saute pan over moderately high heat, ions, and mushrooms into the pan and follow the same directions; you'll
adding a little butter and oil. When and bring to the simmer, basting save a little money and have a first-
very hot, almost smoking, add the with the sauce, step 8-just to warm rate main course. Now that perfectly
meat. Brown, tossing frequently for the beef through without overcook- trimmed whole pork tenderloins
ing; it should be rosy rare. Taste the come in separate packages, this is a
sauce carefully and correct seasoning. particularly appealing recipe.
HAMBURGERS AND group, particularly since it is less ex-

OTHERS pensive-but I do want my beef
trimmed of all gristle, tendons, and
Hamburger is the great American fa- stringy bits. I am paying for good
vorite, and rightly so since it is easy meat , not ground et cetera!
to cook and you can serve it elegantly
or simply, in the dining room or on a The fat content . Fat adds to the flavor
picnic barbecue. And it's hamburger and juiciness of ground meat. The
that makes meat departments tick, round is 10 percent fat, while the
because so much of their business is chuck can average 3 0 percent, de-
in ground beef. In fact markets that pending upon how the meat is
do their own meat cutting couldn't trimmed. It is interesting to note that
afford to carry their expensive pieces markets and industry people like to
of beef without hamburger, which speak of ground beef as being 8 0
takes care of their meat scraps and percent lean rather than 2 0 percent
unsalable or less tender morsels. fat-emphasis on lean looks and
reads better. Most hamburger buffs ,
including me , opt for 20 to 25 per- Hamburger dinner. Cratin of hominy, lower left,
cent fat, but I do not consider a good the hamburgers with sauteed mushrooms, right,
Buying the best hamburger to be diet meat. and your own hamburger buns
The cut. The meat industry tells us Amounts. Opinions vary about size, like the chuck steak pictured at left,
that lean ground beef is lean ground from 4 ounces to the mammoth ¾ - and cut it yourself. If you want to
beef, wherever it comes from. They pounder. I like a 5-ounce burger 3 raise the fat content of lean meat like
are telling us, in other words, that inches across , ¾ inch thick, and just the round , consider that it has a re-
whether it's from the arm or the leg the right size for a bun. sidual 10 percent fat. According to
or the flank its source on the animal my pocket calculator1 then, ½ pound
makes no difference in its quality. of it makes 1 cup or 16 tablespoons,
We, the public, however, have differ- of which about 1 ½ tablespoons are
ent ideas. Some of us prefer the To grind your own fat-add to it 1 ½ tablespoons (¾
ground sirloin, perhaps reading spe- ounce) of beef suet, beef marrow, or
hamburger meat
cial quality into a luxury name , oth- butter as you are grinding, and you
ers al ways choose ground round, and will have your 8 0 percent lean ham-
The grinder. Unless your meat is per-
some insist that chuck is the choicest burger-with 20 percent fat.
fectly trimmed of gristle, a food pro-
because chuck is shoulder, shoulder cessor will give you chopped meat
gets exercise, and exercise means fla- To grind the meat. Chill the meat to
and chopped gristle. A meat grinder
vor. I am of the chuck and neck minimize juice drip. Trim off all
is more trouble, but it does the best
gristle, and as much visible fat as you
job for hamburger because the gris-
deem fit. Cut the meat into strips
tle, etc., won't go through the
about 1 ½ inches across, and alternate
screen, which, by the way, should be
lean and fat to keep the fat moving
a number 10 with 3/16-inch holes .
through the machine. W hen the
grinder slows down or clogs, remove
The meat. You often see packages of
the grinding mechanism, clean off
unidentified stew meat, or meat for
stringy bits from screw and blade ,
brochettes-they're fine for ham-
run hot water through the screen ,
burger when well trimmed. Or buy
and you're ready to go again-the
something more reasonably priced,
less gristle in the meat, the less often
Chuck steak
you will have to go through this.
Steak Tartar Pass Worcestershire sauce, horse-

radish, hot pepper sauce, salt, and a
While on the technique of grinding, pepper grinder. Everyone mixes his
let us not forget steak tartar- own.
chopped raw beef that each guest gar-
nishes to taste with onions, capers, As a crowd-pleasing appetizer. For
anchovies, egg, and other good anyone who enjoys performing in
things. It's the perfect cold carnivo- public, it is often appealing for
rous lunch. But to be at its best the guests to see the house special mixed
beef must be impeccably freshly before their eyes.
ground-preferably home-ground a
few minutes before serving. And it Use the same ingredients and propor-
must be the beef with the right tex- tions as suggested above, but furnish
ture and the most flavor- I vote for the performer with a big fine chop-
the round, only the tenderest cuts of ping board, two large chef's knives
it, nearest the rump. or Chinese cleavers for blend~ng and
seasoning, and a handsome serving
Steak tartar as a luncheon dish Steak Tartar
bowl.
Per serving With great flourish and the flashing

To be passed separately of blades, mix in salt, pepper, egg
6 to 8 ounces of freshly ground lean Worcestershire sauce yolks, anchovies, mustard, and so
beef trimmed of all visible fat, Prepared horseradish forth. Again with flourish, taste the
from the first cuts of the round Hot pepper sauce mixture, and dramatically add a
nearest the rump Salt smidgen of something, then expertly
A pepper grinder gather the meat into the bowl. Guests
To be served on the plate with the beef
1 fresh egg yolk in the half-shell
spoon on their own minced onions
The arrangement. Mound the beef on and capers as they heap their savory
2 Tbs finely minced red onion
a plate, topping it with the egg yolk portions onto squares of buttered rye
1 Tbs Dijon-style prepared mustard
cupped in its half-shell. Surround or pumpernickel bread.
2 best-quality anchovies packed in
with the minced onion, mustard, an-
oil, from a freshly opened can
chovies, capers, and chopped parsley.
2 Tbs capers
2 Tbs chopped fresh parsley
~ MASTER RECIPE When are they done? If you are a Tomato

practiced hamburger cooker, you can
Sauteed or Pan-Fried tell how it is just by pressing the top Use the same system with a cup of
Hamburgers of the meat with your finger. If still diced fresh tomato pulp.
squashy, they are blue rare inside; if
The advantage of pan frying, besides barely springy, they will be rare to
its ease and directness, is that you can medium, but if they are the consis-
make a sauce with the saute juices. tency of a rubber ball , they are very Peppers
The following is for plain hamburger well done . The surest way to tell is to
meat, but see also the flavored ham- cut one open-but rapidly, since they Or saute strips of green and red bell
burger at the end of this section , can overcook in a few seconds. pepper in oil or butter, and perhaps a
since it is particularly recommended bit of minced garlic; swirl them into
for dressy hamburgers served on a the deglazing sauce, give them a
platter. quick simmer, and spoon them over
HAMBURGERS ON A PLATTER: SAUCES
the hamburger.
For 4 servings
Deglazing Sauce
1¼ pounds hamburger formed into 4
patties ¾ inch thick The accumulated juices from pan-
2 to 3 Tbs clarified butter (page 139), fried hamburgers give you the base
Suggested Accompaniments to
or 2 Tbs butter and 1 Tbs fresh for the classic deglazing sauce used Hamburgers on a Platter
olive oil or peanut oil for steaks and described on page 192.
Salt and freshly ground pepper Moreover, rather than the plain but- Giant baked onions ( page 3 14) and a
ter in that recipe, swish in 1 or 2 gratin of hominy ( page 340) make a
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: tablespoons of one of the flavored great combination, or any of the sug-
A heavy 10-inch frying pan, no-stick butters with herbs, or mustard, or gestions for beefsteaks on page 194.
recommended garlic, as described on page 194. You'll want an uncomplicated wine
like zinfandel, Beaujolais, or a good
Sauteing. Set the frying pan over jug red.
moderately high heat, add the clari-
fied butter or butter and oil, and , Mushrooms (continued)
when very hot but not burning , add
the hamburgers. Saute 2 to 3 minutes After sauteing the hamburgers and
on one side, until nicely browned. removing them to a hot platter, make
Turn, season lightly with salt and the deglazing sauce. Fold a cup or so
pepper, and brown on the other side. of sauteed mushr?oms ( page 3 13)
into the sauce and simmer a moment;
remove from heat, and, if you wish,
swirl in a tablespoon or two of butter.
Mound the mushrooms in the center
of your platter and spoon the sauce
over the hamburgers.
SPECIAL NOTE
Salsa
Fresh tomato and onion sauce with
Mexican overtones
For 2½ cups
2 cups tomato pulp (2 to 3 firm ripe
red tomatoes, peeled, seeded,
I . Forming hamburger patties 2. Optional dredging in flour
juiced, and diced; page 357); or a
mixture of fresh tomatoes and
seeded canned Italian plum Suggested Accompaniments Broiled Hamburgers
tomatoes to Hamburger on a Bun
¼ cup finely minced sweet onion or Broiling is wonderful for hamburg-
scallions The best hamburger deserves the best ers, but only when you have a broil-
1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded, bun, one that has texture, one that ing element that efficiently and
and finely diced won't go soggy-the one you'll find quickly browns the meat when set
½ mild green chili pepper (Anaheim in the bread section, on page 4 7. about 1 inch under the red-hot ele-
type) or bell pepper, seeded and Rather than ketchup and mustard, ment for 1½ minutes or so on each
diced you might try the sprightly Salsa in side. Otherwise you are better off
Fresh herbs to taste: such as the Special Note on this page. with the following stove-top grill.
cilantro, parsley, chives, and/or
basil
Seasonings to taste: salt, freshly
VARIATIONS
ground pepper, a pinch of sugar, Hamburgers on the
wine vinegar, hot pepper sauce, Stove-Top Grill
Flavored Hamburger
and droplets of olive oil
1 small ripe avocado, peeled, seeded, This recipe refers to the ridged cast-
To give more flavor and interest to
and diced iron grill described on page 190,
plain hamburgers that you plan to
which sits on top of a burner. It does
serve on a platter, blend 1¼ pounds
The mixture . Fold the tomato in a an easy and beautiful job with 2 to 4
of ground beef lightly in a large mix-
bowl with the onion, cucumber, pep- hamburgers and is, I think, easier
ing bowl with 2 tablespoons each of
per, herbs, and seasonings, tasting than broiling because you can see
grated raw onion and sour cream,
carefully and adding more of what- what is going on. Preheat the grill,
plus salt, freshly ground pepper, and
ever you think necessary. Fold in the brush it lightly with peanut oil or
thyme, and 2 to 3 tablespoons of
diced avocado. Cover with plastic non-stick spray, and cook the ham-
beaten egg, to make a somewhat soft
wrap and refrigerate until serving burgers 2 to 3 minutes on each side.
but not loose mass. Taste, and correct
time. (If too juicy, drain out excess
seasoning. Form somewhat loosely
liquid before turning the salsa into a
into 4 patties (see illustration, step
serving bowl.)
1). Dredge lightly in flour, step 2, if
you wish, the moment before
sauteing.
Hamburgers on the Barbecue Clarified butter (page 139) or olive Suggested accompaniments. Something
oil, for sauteing fresh and green, like broccoli, peas,
Prepare a bed of hot coals that have or spinach. Or something red like
Optional sauce
turned ashen gray, but do not place the eggplant pizzas on page 3 18, or
1/3 cup dry white French vermouth
the grill too close to the coals or you eggplant ratatouille ( page 317). Or
213 cup fresh tomato sauce (page 358) homemade mashed potatoes, or the
will make burn marks in the meat. I
like to brush the burgers with oil be- Gratin Dau phi noise on page 3 22,
fore barbecuing, to prevent them and a green salad.
A 10-inch no-stick frying pan for onions
from sticking. Cooking will probably and patties; a food processor or blender
take a bit longer than sauteing or for pureeing rice; a meat grinder
stove-top grilling-3 to 4 minutes OTHER BURGERS
per side for ¾-inch burgers. The lamb mixture. Puree the cooked
rice, onions, egg, and optional garlic Adapt any of the preceding sugges-
in the food processor or blender. tions to create veal, pork, or turkey
VARIATION: Scrape into a bowl and blend with the burgers. I've even tried out abalone
ground lamb, adding a teaspoon of burgers with great success.
Lam burgers salt, several grinds of pepper, and a
good pinch of rosemary or thyme.
These are best when you grind the Form into patties and arrange on wax
lamb yourself, because then you can paper-they will be rather soft.
first remove all visible fat. Lamb
shoulder is the cut to ask for here, or *Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared
use scraps from the boning-out of a several hours or a day in advance;
rack or the butterflying of a leg. cover and refrigerate.
For 4 large patties 3 ½ inches across Sauteing. Film the frying pan with
and 1 ¼ inches thick; or for 6 smaller butter or oil and set over moderately
patties high heat. When hot, scoop in the
patties with a pancake turner and
113 cup rice simmered until very saute a minute or so on each side-
tender in 2/3 cup chicken stock
watch that they do not brown too
1 cup minced onions sauteed and
much. They are done to medium rare
lightly browned in 2 Tbs butter
when just springy rather than
1 egg squashy to the touch of your finger.
1 clove of garlic, pureed, optional
Remove to hot plates or a hot platter.
1 pound (2 cups) lean ground lamb
The optional sauce. Pour excess fat out
pepper, and ground rosemary or
of the pan, and pour in the wine and
thyme
tomato sauce, stirring with a wooden
spoon for the few minutes it takes the
sauce to boil up and thicken. Spoon
the sauce over the patties, and serve.
SAUTEED PORK OR
VEAL CHOPS
Pork and veal chops are relatively

lean. Unless cooked with special care
they can be dry, and pork, which is a
close-textured meat, can be tough as
well. Slow cooking over moderate
heat is the secret.
The perfect pork chop
The meat is a pale grayish pink,

firm, smooth, silky to the touch. The
fat is firm and white, and thin
strands of fat are embedded in the
flesh. Pictured here is the rib chop,
corresponding to the rib steak in our
beef illustration on page 191 . Loin
chops have the same large lobe of Pork chop with braised red cabbage and steamed potatoes
meat plus a smaller lobe, the tender-
loin, on the other side of the bone; it chops are neither as handsome nor as PREP ARING PORK CHOPS FOR COOK-
is the same cut as the T-bone and tender, being a mixture of muscles. ING. Trim off excess fat, which includes
porterhouse steaks in the beef illus- ·most ( or all) of the surrounding fat
tration. Loin and rib chops are the Thickness of Chops. Because pork from the handsome rib chop illustrated
most desirable and therefore the most chops should be cooked slowly, a thin here. You may wish to hack off½ inch
expensive; sirloin and blade-end chop is easily subject to overcook- or so of the protruding rib bone piece,
ing-¼ inch is a minimum thick- lower right.
ness, in my experience. Chops over 1
inch thick can overcook on the out-
side before the inside is done; they do
Sauteed Pork Chops
best, after their initial browning,
simmering slowly in a covered pan to
For 4 pork chops
finish their cooking.
4 pork rib or loin chops ¾ to 1 inch
Bone-in vs . Boneless Chops. Many thick (for thicker chops, see the
markets now remove the whole loin note following this recipe)
from the bone and cut it into
Optional spice marinade
steaks-the same cut as in top loin
½ tsp Spice Marinade (see Special
beefsteaks. These are usually called
Note on next page)
boneless pork loin chops, and al-
½ tsp salt
though they do not have the generous
look of the conventional chop, their 1 to 2 Tbs light olive oil or peanut
size is convenient for a saute because oil, for sauteing
they take up less room in the frying % cup dry white French vermouth
pan. Use either boneless or bone-in or chicken stock
The perfect pork chop chops in the following recipes.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: A note on thick pork chops. For chops chops, as would be the prune and
A heavy frying pan just roomy enough 1¼ to 1 ½ inches thick, brown them apple garnish on page 177 . Or add
to hold the chops in 1 layer slowly 4 to 5 minutes on each side, as the chops to finish cooking with
described, then pour the wine into brai sed sauerkraut as in the following
Preparing the chops . Trim and defat the pan, and cover it. Simmer slowly recipe.
the chops as described. If you wish to 4 to 5 minutes on one side, turn the
marinate them, mix the ingredients chops and simmer 4 to 5 minutes on Wine w ith pork. Try one of the dry
in a bowl, rub into the meat of the the other side. Remove the chops, Alsatian rieslings, and/or a sauvignon
chops on both sides, cover, and re- boil the juices down to a syrup, spoon blanc, or a light red such as a Beaujo-
frigerate an hour if possible, or over- them over the chops, and serve. lais or a young pinot noir.
night. Dry the chops in paper towels
before proceeding.
SPECIAL NOTE
Cooking the chops. Film the frying Pork Chops with Cream and
pan with oil and set over moderately Mushrooms Spice Marinade for Pork,
high heat. When hot, arrange the
chops in the pan, turn heat to moder-
Pates, and Sausages As Well
After removing the chops from the
ate, and brown them slowly 4 to 5 As for Goose and Duck
pan and rapidly boiling down the
minutes on one side. If you have not juices, pour in ½ cup of heavy
marinated them, season lightly with A sojourn of several hours or over-
cream, boil rapidly for a moment to
salt and pepper. Turn the chops, sea- night in the following spice mixture
thicken lightly, then fold in a good
son them if necessary, and brown gives pork chops, roasts, and sausage
handful of sliced sauteed mushrooms
lightly on the other side. meat an exceptionally fine flavor ; a jar
( page 3 13). Boil briefly, again to
of it in your spice rack is useful to
thicken lightly; correct seasoning,
When are they done? Pork should not have on hand. (I have reserved a
adding drops of freshly squeezed
be overcooked or it will be dry and small, cheap, electric coffee grinder
lemon juice, if needed. Fold in 2 to 3
tough . The chops are done when the just for herbs and spices.)
tablespoons of minced fresh parsley,
flesh feels fairly firm to the touch; it spoon the sauce and mushrooms over
should be still juicy, and a faint pink For about 1 ¼ cups
the chops, and serve.
when you cut into the flesh near the 2 Tbs each ground: imported bay
bone. leaf, clove, mace, nutmeg,
paprika, and thyme
Sauce and serving. Remove the chops Suggested Accompaniments to 1 Tbs each ground: allspice,
to hot plates or a hot platter. Spoon Pork Chops cinnamon, and savory
out the saute fat, pour in the ver- 5 Tbs white peppercorns, ground
mouth or stock, and boil it down rap- For a hearty winter combination,
idly until almost syrupy. Spoon the serve pork chops with steamed pota- To make it. Blend all the ingredients
juices over the chops, and serve. toes and the braised red cabbage on together and store in a screw-top jar.
page 2 8 9. Pork chops also go happily
with such simple accompaniments as Proportions to use. Up to ½ teaspoon
fresh spinach and mashed potatoes, per pound of meat.
or the golden puree of potatoes and
carrots on page 2 8 5, or the puree of
parsnips ( page 286). Beets, turnips,
or winter squash are other ideas, as
are stuffed onions. Beans , lentils, or
one of the hominy recipes starting on
page 340 are good with plain pork
it, and if the sauerkraut seems dry

pour in a little of the wine or stock.

a day in advance to this point; refrig-
erate until chilled, then cover.
Braising-about 45 minutes at 400°F

and 350°F. Bring to the simmer on
top of the stove, cover the casserole,
and set in the lower third level of the
preheated 400°F oven. As soon as the
contents are bubbling slowly, in about
10 minutes, reduce heat to 3 5 0°F and
bake for another 20 to 30 minutes,
until the chops test done as described
in the pork chop recipe.
Serving. Serve directly from the cas-

serole; or make a lavish arrangement
on a large hot platter with the op-
H omemade sausage is the star of this sauerkraut dinner, which begins with broiled oysters and ends with pears in tional additions, as shown in the
custa rd. illustration.
Choucroute Garnie Optional additions

Old-fashioned braised sauerkraut with 8 thin slices of boiled ham SPECIAL NOTE
pork chops and sausages Steamed potatoes
A handful of chopped fresh parsley Menu for a Sauerkraut
The luxurious platter in this photo- Dinner
graph takes a sauerkraut dinner about SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
as far as it can go, but you may be A roomy covered casserole to hold all Oysters on the half-shell
less opulent with a parsimonious the above ingredients Braised sauerkraut with all the
single chop per person-and perhaps trimmings
a single slice of sausage just for fun. The sauerkraut. Prepare the sauer- French bread
kraut as described on page 290. Pear and Custard Tart: Clafouti
For 8 servings ( page 442)
The pork chops and sausages. While Wines
Ingredients for the 2 pounds braised
the sauerkraut is simmering, prick An Alsatian riesling or light
sauerkraut (page 290)
the breakfast sausages with a pin in sauvignon blanc with both oysters
16 pork breakfast sausages; your
several places and brown lightly in a and sauerkraut
own (page 257) or store-bought
fr ying pan. Remove to a side dish, A Sauternes or gewlirztraminer
8 pork rib chops 1 inch thick
leave the fat in the pan , and brown with the tart, or a sweetish sparkling
Spice Marinade (Special Note, page
the pork chops lightly. Prick the brat- wine like a Vouvray
203), optional
wursts and weisswursts in several
4 bratwursts
places.
4 weisswursts
½ cup or so dry white French
Combining. When the sauerkraut is
vermouth or chicken broth
done, bury the chops and sausages in
VEAL CHOPS When are they done? l like veal VA RIATIO NS

cooked to "medium," with the flesh
Beautiful big thick pale pink veal faintly pink when you cut close to the Veal Chops with Tarragon,
chops are never easy to find in retail bone. Mushrooms, and Cream
markets, and when you are so fortu-
nate as to see any, grab them. (Veal Sauce and serving. Remove the chops Ingredients for the preceding veal
freezes well!) Here is one excellent to hot plates or a hot platter. Rapidly chops
way to cook them. boil down the juices to a syrup, off The cream and mushroom variation
heat swish in the optional butter a for pork chops (page 203)
tablespoon at a time, pour over the
chops, and serve. Saute the veal chops as described,
Veal Chops Sauteed with and finish the sauce as for the pork
Wine and Tarragon A note on thick veal chops. For veal chops .
chops I ½ inches thick or more,
2 to 3 Tbs clarified butter (page 139), choose a frying pan that will go into
or 2 Tbs butter and 1 Tbs light the oven. Brown them first on top of
olive oil or peanut oil the stove as described. Season them, OTHER SAUCE VARIATI ONS
4 veal loin or rib chops 1 inch thick add the tarragon, and set the hot pan
(see note for thick veal chops in the upper third level of a 3 7 5°F See the variations for sauteed chicken
following this recipe) oven . Roast 5 to 6 minutes. Then (pages 139-40) , such as the garnish
Salt and freshly ground pepper (watch that hot pan handle!) turn the of braised onions and sauteed pota-
½ tsp or so dried tarragon ( or sprigs chops, baste with the accumulated toes , the piperade with sliced green
of fresh tarragon) juices, season them, and roast another and red peppers, and the Provenc;:al,
% cup dry white French vermouth 5 to 6 minutes, or until done. Re- with tomatoes. Any of these can be
2 to 3 Tbs butter, for the sauce, move the chops to a hot plate or plat- adapted verbatim to veal chops.
optional ter, add the vermouth, and boil down
the juices to a syrup. Swish in the op-
tional butter, spoon over the chops,
A heavy frying pan that will just hold
and serve.
the chops in one layer without crowd-
ing, no-stick recommended
Suggested accompaniments. Anything
you would serve with chicken goes
Cooking the chops . Film the fr ying
with veal: risotto or one of the scal-
pan with 1/16 inch of clarified butter
loped potato dishes beginning on
or butter and oil, and set over mod-
page 322, or a gratin of cauliflower,
erately hi gh heat. When hot, arrange
or broccoli hashed in cream. Stuffed
the chops in the pan, turn heat to
onions or stuffed mushrooms, braised
moderate , and brown the chops
celery, endives, or leeks, or aspara-
slowly and lightly for 5 minutes on
gus, green peas, or artichoke bottoms
one side. Turn them, season lightly
are additional possibilities.
with salt and pepper, and brown
lightly on the other side. P our out
Wine. You might serve a mature but
the saute fat, turn and season the
light red wine with plain veal chops,
chops again, and sprinkle (or lay) on
such as a pinot noir, cabernet , mer-
the tarragon . P our in the vermouth ,
lot, or Bordeaux. Full white wines
cover the pan, and simmer 1 or 2
also go with veal- chardonnays or
minutes more on each side.
Burgundies.
HAM STEAKS Sauteing the ham. Trim off any excess Ham Steaks with Madeira
fat, and cut the ham into serving Cream Sauce
Here are some fast and fancy ways to pieces following the natural muscle
treat those big fat slices of packaged separations if possible; dry in paper Sauteing. Brown the ham, simmer it
ready-to-cook ham you buy at the su- towels. Heat the butter and oil in the with the shallots, Madeira wine, and
permarket. When you douse them frying pan, and when the butter stock, and remove it from the pan as
with a bit of wine and make a fra- foam begins to subside, brown the described. After boiling down the
grant little sauce, they make easy and ham lightly for a minute or two on cooking liquid, blend 2 tablespoons
attractive main courses. each side. Add the shallots or scal- of mustard with 1 tablespoon of to-
lions, wine, and stock; cover the pan mato paste in a bowl with ½to¾
and simmer 5 minutes. cup of heavy cream. Pour it into the
saute pan, simmer for a moment to
~ MASTER RECIPE
Simple deglazing sauce. Remove the blend flavors, and return the ham to
ham to hot plates or a hot platter, the pan, basting it with the sauce.
Sauteed Ham Steaks rapidly boil down the juices to a Bring to the simmer for several min-
Simmered in Wine syrup, spoon and scrape them over utes, basting the ham as the sauce
the 1-iam, and serve. thickens around it. Taste, and correct
This is the basic recipe which you can
seasoning. Remove the ham to hot
serve as is, or elaborate with mush- Suggested accompaniments. Fresh plates or a hot platter, spoon the sauce
rooms, cream, and so forth. braised or buttered spinach and over it, decorate with parsley, and
home-made mashed potatoes or one serve.
For 4 servings of the potato gratins starting on page
1 ½ to 2 pounds cooked ham in a 322 are natural accompaniments
slice about 3/s inch thick here-and a light red wine such as a
2 Tbs unsalted butter pinot noir or Beaujolais, or a full S auteed Ham Steaks with
1 Tbs light olive oil or peanut oil white like a chardonnay. Fresh Green Peas and a
2 Tbs finely minced shallots or Border of Mashed Potatoes
scallions
1/3 cup dry Port or Madeira wine, or VAR IATIONS You may wish to leave the ham slice
dry white French vermouth whole, and, after simmering it in its
1
/3 cup ham, beef, or chicken stock Ham Steaks with Cream and Madeira cream sauce, remove it to a
Mushrooms hot lightly buttered platter. Spoon a
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: little of the sauce over the ham, and
A frying pan large enough to hold the turn 2 cups of cooked fresh green
This is a marvelous combination,
ham slices comfortably, no-stick recom- peas into the pan to simmer a mo-
similar to one served by the great
mended; a cover for the pan ment in the sauce. Pipe warm
chef Andre Surmain at his 3-star res-
taurant in Saulieu. Complete the rec- mashed potatoes around the edge of
ipe as directed, but add a good the platter, spoon the peas and sauce
handful of sauteed sliced mushrooms around the ham, and serve.
( page 3 13) to simmer with the ham
and cream. You may wish to fold in a
little chopped fresh parsley before
spooning the sauce over the ham.
SAUTEED VEAL SCALLOPS Sauteed Veal Scallops

Fast, fabulous, and, as top-quality For 6 servings
veal always is-expensive. Grab up
any prime veal scallops you see be- 12 veal scallops 2 to 3 ounces each
cause you won't find them often in and % inch thick, prepared for
the supermarket. cooking and pounded as described
¼ cup clarified butter (page 139)
Pounding veal scallops SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:

The color of prime veal
A heavy 12-inch frying pan; a hot plat-
ter; a cover for the platter
Pick veal by its color-pale creamy To pound veal scallops. Trim any
pink, about the shade of a raw fat and gristle off the circumference Sauteing. Dry the scallops in paper
chicken thigh. Some cuts of the dark of the scallops. Lay one between 2 towels. Set the frying pan over high
pink or reddish so-called free-range sheets of plastic wrap and pound heat and film with 1/16 inch of clari-
veal may be tender, but in my opin- firmly but not roughly back and forth fied butter. When very hot but not
ion it neither looks nor tastes like and up and down using the smooth smoking , rapidly lay in half the scal-
veal. It should be called calf. side of a meat tenderizer, or a lops-they should fit in one comfort-
plumber's rubber hammer, or a able layer. Saute 1 minute on each
rolling pin-or even the side of a side. Remove them to the platter, sea-
bottle. The scallop will spread out to son rapidly and lightly with salt and
almost double, and should be a quite pepper, and cover to keep warm.
even ¼ inch thick all over. Wrap and Add more butter to the pan as
refrigerate the scallops until you are needed, saute the remaining scallops,
ready to saute. and arrange them also on the platter.
Serve them as is , or sauce them with
one of the following choices.
Veal cuts. Top, veal chop; bottom, the round

SAUCE SUGGESTIONS
Cuts of me a t for s ca ll ops . Veal

Deglazing Sauce with Lemon
scallops are bought 3/s inch thick and
and Parsley
are pounded down to ¼-inch
thickness: pounding breaks down the
After removing the preceding sauteed
tissues, making the meat lie flat
scallops to the platter, make the clas-
during its saute. You therefore want a
sic deglazing sauce on page 192-
cut of veal with no muscle
sauteing a tablespoon or so of shal-
separations, which will stay in one
lots, deglazing the pan wi th wine and
piece when pounded. The ideal cut is
chicken stock, adding a little lemon
the trimmed top or bottom round,
juice and parsley, swirling in a bit of
but you can bone out a veal chop ( see butter if you wish, and pouring the
illustration).
sauce over the scallops.
(co ntinued)
Tarragon Sauce CALF'S LIVER tP MASTER RECIPE
Make the preceding classic deglazing Liver may be a mature taste, an ac- Sau teed Calf's Liver
sauce and add ½ teaspoon of fragrant quired taste, and, if your family
dried tarragon, or leaves of fresh tar- members are not yet liver lovers, Here is the master recipe for a
ragon, to the wine and stock as you they may well become so when you simple saute of calf's liver, which
are boiling it down . Garnish with bring out a dish of liver and onions. cooks hardly more than a minute on
fresh tarragon leaves if you have each side. Overcooked liver is gray,
them, or with chopped fresh parsley. dry, and disappointing-perfectly
sauteed, it is a rosy pink when you
Buying liver. Look for color-a cut into it.
rather deep terra-cotta rather than
Tarragon Cream Sauce purplish brown-then you will have For 4 servings
the liver with the best taste and 4 slices or about 1 pound top-quality
Complete the preceding tarragon tenderest texture . For the following calf's liver sliced ½ inch thick
sauce, and when it has boiled down to sautes it should be sliced 3/s inch Salt and freshly ground pepper
a syrup, pour in 1 cup of heavy thick, and the slices should contain a ½ cup or so flour in a plate
cream. Return the veal scallops to the minimum of tubes and gristly pieces 3 Tbs clarified butter (page 139), or
pan, basting them with the sauce, and buried in the meat. The membrane butter and light olive oil or peanut
simmering for a moment until well surrounding the outside circum- oil
heated through. Taste carefully for ference should be removed, or it will
seasoning, adding drops of lemon pull the slices out of shape as they SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
juice, if needed. Garnish with fresh saute. A heavy 10-inch frying pan, no-stick
tarragon leaves or parsley. recommended
Sauteing. The moment before saute-

Storing. Liver is perishable; it ing, season the liver on both sides
OTHER SAUCE S UGGESTIONS
should be kept under refrigeration, with a sprinkling of salt and pepper,
and be used within a day or two of and dredge in the fl.our, shaking off
The cream and mushroom sauce for
purchase. I have had success freezing excess. Set the frying pan over high
pork chops (page 203) is an attrac-
raw liver at 0°F for a week or two, heat and film with 1/16 inch of clari-
tive possibility, as is the Proven~al
and letting it thaw slowly in the fied butter or butter and oil. When
treatment with tomatoes and herbs
·refrigerator. Would anyone know the very hot, lay in the liver and saute 1
for sauteed chicken on page 13 9 and
difference ? I'm not sure I would. minute on each side.
the black butter sauce with capers for
the fish galettes on page 12 5.
When is it done? It should be barely
springy when pressed with your fin-
ger, and a deep pinky red when you
cut into a piece. Serve as is, or try
Wines and Vegetables to Serve
one of the suggestions that follow.
with Veal Scallops
All the vegetables and wines sug-

gested for veal chops on page 2 0 5
also go nicely with veal scallops .
VAR IATIO N OTHER SAUCES OR TOPPINGS FOR Finishing the dish. Scrape the onions
SAUTEED LIVER
over the liver, pour in the vermouth
Calfs Liver and Bacon and stock, raise heat, and boil rap-
Flavored Butter Topping
idly, basting the li ver with the sauce
Cook 2 slices of bacon per person and as it thickens lightly. Remove the
keep warm on a plate lined with pa- Rather than making a sauce, top each
liver to hot plates or a hot platter,
per towels. Pour the bacon fat into a slice with a tablespoon of mustard
spoon the sauce over, and decorate
small bowl, wipe the pan clean, and butter ( page 194), or of Maitre
with the optional parsley.
spoon in clear bacon fat. Use that d'Hotel Butter ( page 193) with its
rather than butter for sauteing, to parsley and lemon, or the red or
Suggested accompaniments. Your own
give the li ver a special flavor. Serve white wine butter. These are conve-
home-made mashed potatoes would
the bacon with the liver. nient and fast because they can be
be lovely here , broiled or baked to-
made ahead and stored in the
matoes, and perhaps a lightly dressed
refrigerator.
salad of young spinach leaves. You'll
want a fairly hearty red wine, like
Sau teed Calf s Liver with zinfandel or Beaujolais.
Wine and Mustard Sauce
Black Butter Sauce with
For 4 servings Capers
SPECIAL NOTE
1 Tbs Dijon-type prepared mustard This is described on page 12 5, and is
¼ cup beef or chicken stock particularly successful with liver, the Tenderly Browned Sliced
¼ cup dry white French vermouth capers giving it an agreeably tart Onions-"Marmelade"
Ingredients for Sauteed Calf s Liver overtone. To serve with steaks, hamburgers,
1 Tbs butter sauteed liver
1 Tbs minced shallot or scallion
2 Tbs minced fresh parsley This is for about ½ cup of browned
Liver and Onions sliced onions, enough for the gar-
Whisk the mustard, stock, and ver- nishing of 4 to 6 servings. Slowly
mouth in a small bowl. Saute the Liver and onions-and beautifully saute 3 cups of sliced onions in 2 to 3
liver and remove to hot plates or a browned tender sliced onions they tablespoons of butter or oil in a cov-
hot platter. Wipe out the pan with a must be-are an unbeatable ered pan , stirring frequently, until
paper towel, add the tablespoon of combination. the onions are very tender-15 min-
butter, and saute the shallot or scal- utes or so. Uncover the pan, salt
lion in the pan for a moment ; blend For 4 serv ings lightly, raise the heat to moderately
in the mustard mixture and simmer a high , and let the onions brown nicely,
moment or two, until the sauce has Ingredients for the master recipe for stirring frequently-5 minutes or
thickened lightly. Swirl in the pars- sauteed liver more.
ley, spoon the sauce over the liver, ½ cup tenderly browned sliced
and serve. onions (see Special Note on this *Ahead-of-time note: The onions may
page) be browned even a day in advance, or
¼ cup dry white French vermouth may be frozen and thawed. (Blissful
1/3 cup beef or chicken stock idea: have medium-size packets of
2 to 3 Tbs minced fresh parsley, browned onions in the freezer, ready
optional to be thawed in the microwave.)
The liver. Season, dredge in flour,

and saute as described in the master
recipe, but keep it rarer than usual.
VARIATIONS BROIL-ROASTING steak comfortably; a bulb baster and

pastry brush are useful; an instant meat
Calf s Liver and Onions, alla thermometer
Veneziana By the time a broiled or pan-fried
thick steak is cooked through, the in- Preparing the steak. Dry the steak,
Reminiscent of Harry's Bar in Ven- side is dandy but the outside is too trim off excess fat, and rub both sides
ice . Cut the liver into strips about often blackened, tough, and dry. The lightly with oil. Arrange the steak in
2 ½ inches long . When the onions solution is to brown it on both sides the pan.
are done and out of the pan, and just under the broiler and to finish it off
before serving, season the liver, toss in the oven. This works nicely not Preliminary broiling. Preheat broiler
with the flour, and shake in a sieve to only for 2-inch steaks, but for other to high, and set the steak so its sur-
remove excess flour. Saute and sauce pieces of meat not thick enough to re- face is close under the heat element.
as described in the preceding recipe. quire actual roasting but too thick for Rapidly brown the top-about 2
successful broiling. Butterflied pork minutes. Remove cooking fat with a
loin and butterflied leg of lamb are bulb baster or spoon (so it will not
other examples; broil-roasting is also catch fire in the pan). Season lightly
Chick en L ivers alla fast and fine for butterflied chickens with salt and pepper, turn, and
Veneziana and turkeys, beginning on page 154. brown briefly on the other side. Sea-
son this side lightly, baste with the fat
Chicken livers are a fine substitute in the pan, sprinkle on the herbs.
for calf's liver, and the terra-cotta
rather than purplish color is most de- ~ MASTER RECIPE *Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared
sirable if you can pick them out one in advance to this point.
by one. Follow the preceding recipe, Broil-Roasted Sirloin Steak
substituting chicken livers for the Finishing in the oven. Turn the oven
BEEF CUTS TO CHOOSE. Referring to
strips of calf's liver. thermostat to 3 7 5°F, and set the steak
our beef chart on page 4 92, prime
in the upper third level to finish
choices for thick steaks are the porter-
cooking for 15 to 20 minutes, turn-
house, T-bone, rib steak, and sirloin.
ing and basting once. It will be done
The sirloin is my choice when serving
to a rosy rare at 12 5°F on your meat
more than 4 people, but they all cook as
thermometer. Remove the steak to a
in the following directions.
warm platter and let it rest 5 minutes
or so before carving, so that the
For 6 to 8 servings
juices will retreat back into the flesh.
A 3-pound boneless sirloin steak 2
inches thick (or 2 T-bone, *Ahead-of-time note: After its rest you
porterhouse, or rib steaks) can then hold it at 120°F or less for a
1 Tbs fresh oil good hour before serving.
¼ tsp thyme or herb blend Sauce and serving. Meanwhile, spoon
1/3 cup dry white French vermouth the cooking fat out of the baking
1/3 cup beef stock dish, pour in the wine and stock, and
1 to 2 Tbs butter, optional boil over high heat on top of the
stove, scraping up coagulated juices.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: In a few seconds, remove from heat,
A frying pan or shallow flameproof swirl in the optional butter, pour
roasting pan that will just hold the over the steak, and serve.
JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK MEAT 2I I
Suggested accompaniments. There's Butterflied Loin of Pork Preliminary roasting- I hour at

nothing wrong with baked potatoes, 3 75°F. Preheat the oven to 3 7 5°F.
or homemade mashed potatoes, or A loin of pork roasts in half the usual Roast in the middle level for about 1
one of the potato gratins on page time when it is butterflied, and that hour, or to an internal meat ther-
3 22. Or you might choose an means simply to untie the boned loin mometer reading of 140°F, basting
eggplant dish such as the souffle on that you bought at the supermarket. with accumulated fat every 2 0 min-
page 2 92, the eggplant and tomato Spread it out, slash the thick portions utes. Turn fat side up, and make dec-
ratatouille on page 3 17, or eggplant to even it out, and there is your but- orative shallow cross-hatch slashes 1
pizzas ( page 318). And/or fresh terfly. Rather than a broil-roast it's inch apart in the fat; gently rub in
green peas, or beans, or-I shall not the other way around-start it in the the optional coarse salt.
go on since almost anything goes with oven and finish it under the broiler.
steak. Certainly a red wine, a fine *Ahead-of-time note: May be com-
Bordeaux or cabernet, or a Burgundy For 8 servings pleted somewhat in advance to this
or pinot noir. point; remove from the oven, cover
A 3- to 3½-pound boned pork loin loosely, and set at room temperature.
roast
1½ tsp salt Final broiling-2 0 minutes. Set the
OTHER SAUCE AND SERVING 1½ tsp of the Spice Marinade (see
SUGGESTIONS meat so its surface is 3 inches from
Special Note, page 203), or a the hot broiler element as it slowly
See the red wine sauce for sauteed mixture of ground allspice, sage browns; the internal meat tempera-
beefsteaks, as well as the Bearnaise or thyme, and freshly ground ture should be 162°F to 165°F. The
sauce and the flavored butters, all of pepper meat should be firm but juicy, and a
which go nicely with broil-roasted 1 Tbs light oil faint pink when you cut into it. Let
steaks. 1 Tbs coarse (Kosher) salt, optional rest 10 minutes before carving.
A shallow roasting pan that will just
*Ahead-of-time note: After roasting
and its 10-minute rest, you can then
hold the pork comfortably; an instant
hold it at 120°F for a good hour be-
meat thermometer
fore serving.
Preparing the pork. Trim off excess
Serving. Carve ihto slanting slices,
fat, leaving, however, a 'ls-inch layer
spooning a little pan juice over each.
on the outside. Set fat side down, and
make several lengthwise slashes in
Suggested accompaniments. A roast of
the thick sections of the meat, to even
pork is an opportunity to bring out
it out. Rub the spices over the meat,
some of the wonderful-tasting earthy
then rub with the oil. Set flesh side
vegetables, like braised butternut
up in the roasting pan; cover and re-
squash, or the rutabaga and parsnip
frigerate several hours or overnight.
dishes starting on page 2 8 5, or the
grated beets on page 2 9 3, or the
stuffed winter squash on page 307.
pleted 2 days in advance.
Any of the suggestions for pork
chops on page 202 go with roast
How to slice and serve the steak pork, too. You'll want a full white
wine of the chardonnay type, or a
light red-a merlot or a Bordeaux.
I. After trimming off fat, remove the hip bone.
Butterflied Leg of Lamb with stuffed tomatoes

2. The knee cap
VARIATION from the ball end to the knee, scrap-

ing the meat away from the bone all
Butterflied Leg of Lamb around. At its outside angle, against
the skin, is lodged a moon-shaped
A butterflied leg of lamb cooks in a white chip that is the knee cap, step
third the usual time, and is a breeze 2. Remove it. Cut around the flesh of
to carve. If your butcher does not go the shank bone to detach its lower
in for butterflying, it is easy enough part; then cut around the knee to free
to do yourself. the two leg bones in one piece, step
3. Removing the leg bones 3. (The flesh of the shank contains
To butterfly a leg of lamb. Trim off the white tendons that make this meat
outside fat. Then turn the lamb skin less tender than the rest. Cut it off if
side down, the small (shank) end fac- you wish, and save it for the lambur-
ing you. Note the cut end of the hip- gers on page 201; or cut out the ten-
bone protruding slightly near the dons one by one and use the meat for
large end, step 1. It is attached to the the kabobs at the end of the butter-
main leg by a ball joint. Cut under flied lamb recipe.) Spread the meat
hip bone to separate it from the joint, skin side down; cut out visible fat. To
then around its convoluted structure make the meat more even in thick-
to release it, along with the tail as- ness, cut lengthwise slashes, step 4.
sembly, from the meat. The ball end (A 6 ½-pound leg serves 10 to 12
4. Makirig lengthwise slashes in meat
of the bone that fits into the hip joint people easily; if you are having fewer
belongs to the main leg bone; make a guests, cut off a nice lobe of meat and
straight cut down through the meat save it for another meal.)
Finishing the job. Run two long skew- Serving. To carve, cut into slanting
ers crosswise through the meat to slices across the grain-not as neat as
keep it in place. Paint the meat with for a bone-in leg, but carving is easy.
oil. Or paint both sides with the fol- Moisten each serving with accumu-
lowing mustard coating, and refrig- lated pan juices.
erate the meat for at least an hour if
possible-overnight is better. Suggested acc_ompaniments. As for veg-
etables, eggplant is a natural with
Broil-roasting. If you are using it, re- lamb, and so easy to do when you
serve 2 tablespoons of the mustard steam it ( page 2 9 1) . White beans go
Basting kabobs with Mustard Marinade
coating for the final cooking. Brown beautifully, too , and are fast to cook
the lamb slowly under the broiler for when you use the quick-soak system
10 minutes on each side, basting sev- on page 332. Two other suggestions: VARIATION
eral times with oil. green beans, cooked the French way
so they retain their bright color and Lamb Kabobs:
*Ahead-of-time note: After browning, texture ( page 2 7 6), and tomatoes Skewered Lamb
you may let it sit at room temperature Proven~ale, baked with fresh bread
for up to an hour. crumbs and herbs (page 306). Colorful skewered fantasies of meat
with pineapple, green peppers,
Finishing the lamb-about 2 0 minutes BARB ECUING NOTE. You may cook the mushrooms, little onions, and cherry
at 3 75°F. When you are ready to fin- butterflied leg entirely on the barbecue tomatoes look so pretty when raw, but
ish it off, set the lamb skin side up grill, turning and basting it with oil in just try to cook one successfully! If
and paint with the reserved mustard the usual manner. the meat gets done properly, the pep-
coating. Roast for 15 to 20 minutes pers and onions will be raw, the
in the upper third of the preheated mushrooms and tomatoes will fall
oven. SPECIAL NOTE off, and only the pineapple may sur-
vive. Better to use meat alone, and
When is it done? The lamb is done Mustard Coating and save the trimmings for
when the flesh has just achieved a accompaniment.
Marinade for Roast
springy texture to the pressure of and Broiled Lamb and
your finger, in contrast to its squashy For an unspecified number
Kabobs
feel when raw. Red rare will be Chunks of tender roasting-quality
125°F on your meat thermometer; 2 large cloves of garlic lanib, such as unused lobes of
medium pinky rare, 130°F. Remove ½ tsp salt meat from a butterflied leg
the meat from the oven and let it sit 2 Tbs Dijon-style prepared mustard The mustard marinade (see Special
10 to 15 minutes before carving so 1 Tbs soy sauce Note), or a mixture such as olive
the juices can retreat back into the 1½ tsp fragrant ground rosemary, oil, lemon juice, drops of soy
tissues. thyme, or oregano sauce, and ground rosemary
2 Tbs freshly squeezed lemon juice Strips of thick-sliced bacon cut into
*Ahead-of-time note: After roasting, ¼ cup olive oil or peanut oil 2-inch crosswise pieces, optional
and letting the meat rest at room tem- Imported bay leaves
perature for 10 minutes, you can Puree the garlic into a small bowl
hold it at 120°F for a good hour and mash to a paste with the salt. SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGEST ED:
without fear of overcooking. Whisk in the mustard, soy, herbs, A hinged double-sided barbecue rack
lemon juice, and then the oil, to that will fit over a roaster; or a roaster
make a mayonnaise-like cream. with rack to fit on top to _h old the skew-
ers, as illustrated
Lamb Kebobs: Skewered Lamb (continued) FEASTING ON THE

REMAINS
Preparing the lamb. Remove fat and
gristle, and cut the lamb, as well as Wonderful things can be done with
you can, into 2-inch chunks . Toss in leftover lamb, raw or cooked. For
a bowl with the marinade ingredients example, ground roast lamb makes
and let steep an hour if possible, or the splendid moussaka on page 3 19,
overnight. Drop the bacon into a or it could go into the stuffed cabbage
saucepan of boiling water and blanch on page 304, and there are always
(boil slowly) 5 minutes; drain, rinse lam burgers ( page 2 0 1). Here are
in cold water, and pat dry in paper two other ideas.
towels. Thread the lamb onto skew-
ers, reserving the marinade, inter-
spersing the pieces with either the
optional bacon or a piece of bay leaf. Syrian Salad Platter
*Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared Cold roast lamb is delicious in itself,

even a day in advance; cover and but it's also good dressed in Syrian Syrian Salad Platter
refrigerate. robes, as in the following suggestion.
Broiling. Baste the kabobs again with The bulgur. While stirring the bul-
For 6 servings
the reserved marinade. Set close gur, pour on the boiling water; let
A bulgur base soak 15 minutes or longer, until it is
under a hot broiling element for 2
minutes, turn, and broil another 2 1 cup raw dry bulgur (cracked tender enough to chew pleasantly.
minutes, or until the meat has just wheat) in a bowl Pour through a sieve to drain, rinse
taken on a light springiness in con- 4 cups boiling water in cold water, and squeeze as dry as
trast to its squashy raw state. (Cut 1 small onion, grated possible by twisting it by handfuls in
into a piece if you have doubts.) ½ cup chopped fresh parsley the corner of a towel. Toss it in the
Baste the kabobs with any juices that 1 or more Tbs olive oil bowl with the grated onion, parsley,
have fallen into the pan, and serve. Salt and freshly ground pepper and olive oil, adding salt, pepper,
Freshly squeezed lemon juice and lemon juice to taste.
BARBECUE NOTE. If you are kabobing
Garlic and anchovy sauce for lamb
on a barbecue, you'll find it helpful to Garlic and anchovy sauce for lamb.
enclose the skewered meat in a hinged 2 large cloves of garlic Puree the garlic into a small bowl
rack, where they are easy to turn and Salt and freshly ground pepper and add a pinch of salt. Mince a 2-
baste. I lemon inch strip of peel from the lemon,
6 anchovies packed in olive oil add it to the garlic, and mash all to-
Rosemary or thyme gether with a wooden spoon until a
Dijon-type prepared mustard fairly smooth paste. Then mash in
½ cup or more olive oil the anchovies along with ¼ teaspoon
2 Tbs capers, chopped or so of rosemary or thyme. Blend in
2 to 3 Tbs chopped fresh parsley a tablespoon of lemon juice, another
12 slices of cold roast leg of lamb of Dijon mustard, and finally beat in
Decorative suggestions: quartered the olive oil by driblets to make a
tomatoes or halved cherry lightly creamy sauce. Blend in the ca-
tomatoes; cucumbers, peeled, pers and parsley, and season to taste.
halved lengthwise, seeded, and
sliced; sliced green and/or red bell
peppers; black olives; halved or
quartered hard-boiled eggs
Saucing the lamb. Place the slices of Scotch Broth: Barley Soup transfer the bones and vegetables to
lamb in a dish and baste with the Lentil or Bean Soup the saucepan or kettle. Pour a cup of
sauce; let marinate, basting occasion- water into the roasting pan and sim-
ally, for at least ½ hour. The bones from a butterflied leg of mer on top of the stove a moment or
lamb make a first-rate main-course two, scraping coagulated juices into
*Ahead-of-time note: The lamb may soup, filled with good flavors and the liquid; pour the liquid into the
be sauced a day ahead; cover and good things. saucepan with the bones.
refrigerate.
For 2 quarts or so, serving 6 Simmering the stock . Add water to
Serving. Mound the bulgur in the cover ingredients by an inch, and
center of a platter and arrange the Lamb stock
bring to the simmer. Skim off accu-
slices of lamb attractively around it. The uncooked bones and scraps mulated scum for several minutes,
Place whatever decorative sugges- from a boned leg of lamb salt and pepper the stock lightly, and
tions you are using around the platter 1 medium carrot, chopped add the chopped celery, garlic, bay
in bountiful profusion. (Flavor the 1 medium onion, chopped leaf, and rosemary or thyme. Cover
cucumber, if you wish, with a tea- Salt and freshly ground pepper loosely and simmer 3 to 4 hours, or
spoon or so of wine vinegar, ¼ tea- 1 large celery stalk, chopped until you feel you have gotten the best
spoon of salt, and a pinch of sugar- 2 large cloves of garlic, smashed out of your bones-add water as
toss to blend, and let macerate 10 1 imported bay leaf needed to keep the ingredients cov-
minutes or so; pour the juices over ¼ tsp rosemary or thyme ered. Strain and degrease; wash out
the tomatoes.) The vegetable garnish the saucepan and return the stock
to it.
A little chicken stock or bean-
cooking liquid, if needed
Finishing the soup. Bring the de-
½ cup barley or lentils, or 1 ½ cups
greased stock to the simmer-you
almost-cooked white beans, or 1 ½
should have almost 2 quarts; add a
cups canned beans
little chicken stock or bean liquid if
½ cup each: diced onions, turnips,
needed. Add the barley, lentils, or
and carrots
beans, and the onions, turnips, and
1 cup diced tomato pulp (fresh or
carrots; cover loosely and simmer un-
canned)
til the vegetables are tender-15
2 to 3 Tbs chopped fresh parsley
minutes or so . Taste carefully and
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: correct seasoning.
A roasting pan to brown the bones; a
large saucepan or a kettle for the stock *Ahead-of-time note: May be com-
pleted a day in advance. When cool,
Browning the bones. Chop or saw cover and refrigerate.
the lamb bones into convenient-size
pieces, arrange in the roasting pan Serving. Bring the soup to the sim-
with the chopped carrot and onion, mer. Fold in the diced tomato and the
and brown 3 0 to 40 minutes in the parsley; simmer a moment more.
upper third level of a 425°F oven, Correct seasoning again, and the soup
turning and basting with accumulated is ready to serve.
fat once or twice. Drain out fat and
216 J ULIA CHILD THEW A Y TO COOK
SPARE RIBS
~ MASTER RECIPE
Broiled or Barbecued Spare

Ribs
Spare ribs on the barbecue, all of a

summer's night, or browning away
under the broiler of a winter eve-
ning-spare ribs are a year-round
treat, and these are especially good
because of their preliminary spicing.
It gives them extra flavor, as does
frequent basting with the special
house BBQ sauce.
For 6 servings
3 whole spare ribs, making 12 sets of

3-rib portions Barbecue dinner: the ribs, upper left; lentil salad, right ; ratatouille, lower right
Salt and spice marinade

Trimming the ribs. Most ribs you buy Special house BBQ sauce. Mix the in-
Either 1½ Tbs salt and 1 tsp of your in the supermarket are trimmed and gredients for the sauce in a bowl, and
own Spice Marinade (Special ready to cook. If yours are not, cut paint a coating on both sides of the
Note, page 203) the cartilage bone ends from the large ribs. Set the ribs, curved side down,
Or 1½ Tbs salt, ½ tsp ground side and remove any excess fat and in a roasting pan or pans. Reserve the
allspice, ½ tsp freshly ground gristle from the whole rib section. rest of the sauce.
pepper Slash between every 2 or 3 ribs at the
Special house BBQ sauce large side to make for easy cutting
into portions after cooking.
½ cup fresh peanut oil
½ cup soy sauce
Preliminary salt and spice marinade.
½ cup honey
Mix the spices and salt in a small
1 tsp thyme or sage
bowl; rub the mixture into both sides
1 tsp paprika
of the ribs ( see illustration, step 1) .
¼ tsp cayenne pepper or chili
Cover and refrigerate. Leave at least
powder, or to taste
½ hour, but overnight is more
2 Tbs vinegar
effective.
I . Rubbing in dry marinade

JULIACHILDTHEWAYTOCOOK MEAT 217
Or under the broiler. Instead of fin- ROASTING

ishing on the barbecue, turn the ribs
under a moderate broiler for 15 to Roast beef usually means roast ribs of
20 minutes, basting frequently with beef, and, like roast turkey, it is one
the sauce. of the easiest pieces of meat to deal
with. Set it in the oven, baste it occa-
Suggested accompaniments. An egg- sionally, and the only other attention
plant and tomato casserole, the fa- it needs is that you check the timing
mous ratatouille ( page 317), would and the meat thermometer. No wor-
go beautifully, as would lentils ( page ries about guests not arriving on
2. Painting final marinade over partially cooked
ribs 3 3 7), hot or cold, and a tossed green time , either, because you can hold the
salad. Serve beer, cider, or a spicy roast perfectly for over an hour. Al-
sauvignon blanc. though other and less expensive cuts
*Ahead-of-time note: The recipe may can be roasted successfully (and some
be prepared a day in advance to this of them are discussed on page 242),
point. Cover ribs and sauce, and re- the ribs, and top loin, and the tender-
frigerate them. loin are the great traditional roasting
choices. You'll see them pictured on
Pre-barbecue roasting-4 0 minutes at our beef carcass ( page 4 9 2).
375°F. Baste both sides lightly with
another coat of sauce, step 2, and
roast 20 minutes on each side in the
preheated oven-this starts the cook-
ing and eliminates some of the excess
fat.
*Ahead-of-time note: May be done Real spare ribs, top; country style, lower right ;
back ribs, lower left
somewhat in advance; let cool, then
cover and refrigerate.
VA RIATION
Final cooking. Cuts of beef for roasting. Left, trimmed rib roast;
Back ribs and center, whole tenderloin ; right , top loin roast
Either on the barbecue. Have your country-style ribs

coals just right-a hot gray, not a
burning red. Basting the r ibs with Use the same general system for
the sauce, turn them over the coals these, but because country-style ribs
for 15 to 20 minutes, until a nice are meatier and fattier, give them
crusty brown. about an hour's preliminary roasting
before their final browning. On the
other hand, back ribs are thinner and
leaner; omit the preliminary roasting
and concentrate on a slow broil,
or barbecue to cook and brown th em
Rib roasts. Left, trimmed roast; rig ht , untrimmed
under their basting sauce.
roast
Roast beef
BUYING AND TRIMMING. There is a

lot of waste to an untrimmed rib roast,
whether or not it's the prime rib-
prime meaning top-quality. This is par-
ticularly true if you buy the shoulder
end of the rib section. For the beauti-
fully prepared loin end roast on the left,
all the "cap" meat ( layers of meat and
fat surrounding the "eye") has been re-
moved except for a thin layer of cover-
ing fat. The rib bones have been
shortened and ''frenched" ( trimmed of
fat and gristle); the chine (backbone) is
off; and butcher's twine is looped around
the roast between each rib. Any good
market will do this for you given a few
days' notice, but it's a nice bit of work
for the home butcher and when you slice
the fat off the trimmings, you have the
base for fine hamburgers or a beef stew.
Roast beef dinner with all the trimmings
HOW MANY SERVINGS? Some authori-

ties figure 2 people per rib, but our 5
ribs served 16. tp MASTER RECIPE TIMING. Count on 3 ½ hours to be on
the very safe side-a generous 2¼
ROASTING METHODS. Although I have Roast Prime Ribs of Beef hours for roasting, plus a ¼-hour lee-
tried various fast and slow and on- way and rest before carving. Be sure
again, off-again methods for roasting Here is the recipe for a large top- your oven thermostat is correct! Check
beef, I always return to the uncompli- quality 5-rib roast, for a big family it with an accurate oven thermometer.
cated 325°F oven, where the cook has dinner serving 12 to 16. Smaller
easy access and complete control. roasts cook exactly the same way; it is For 12 to 16 servings
only the timing that differs, as de-
scribed in the preceding chart. A fully trimmed 5-rib (approxi-
mately 12-pound) roast of beef
MANUFACTURING NOTE. Roasting is from the loin end, ribs 8 through
so easy-put the meat into a 3 2 5°F 12
oven and roast to a temperature of 2 Tbs fresh cooking oil
120°F at the large end-2¼ to 2¼ ½ cup each chopped carrots and
hours, basting with accumulated fat onions, to flavor the juices
every 30 minutes. The following is a ½ tsp dried thyme
full-scale treatment in case this is your 2 cups beef stock, preferably your
first roast beef and you' re nervous about own, which you can make from
having spent all that money for all that the rib ends and chine bones
meat. (page 14 ); or a combination of
beef and chicken broths
JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK MEAT 2 19

A shallow roasting pan just large SPECIAL NOTE take a little more time) 12 to 13 min-
enough to hold the beef comfortably; a utes per pound for rare; 14 to 16, for
pastry brush for basting; an instant meat Timing for fully trimmed medium rare; 17 to 20, for medium
thermometer ready-to-roast ribs
Roasting chart: Approximate timing
Preliminaries. Prepare the roast ac- Oven roasting temperature: 325°F for prime and choice grades roasted
cording to the preceding suggestions, to 120°F at the large end, rest period
and rub the exposed ends of meat Meat thermometer reading: not included. Always count on the
with cooking oil. Arrange it fat side longest time plus a 20-minute rest
up in the roasting pan. If you plan to Rare: 120°F at the large end, to out of the oven, to be sure your roast
make your own beef stock, start it give rosy rare at the large end and will be done-you can keep it safely
going well ahead-it can be refriger- pinky rare at the small end once cooked, as described at the end
ated or frozen. of the recipe.
Medium rare: 125°F to 130°F
*Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared A 5-rib roast 2¼ to 2¼
a day in advance; cover and refriger- Medium: 140°F, a pinky gray ( 1 1 to 13 pounds) hours
ate. A chilled roast may take a little color-note that this is the official
longer to cook than the times "safe" temperature for cooked meats, A 4-rib roast 1¼ to 2¼
indicated. where various bacteria are surely (9 to 10 pounds) hours
killed off.
Roasting-2¼ to 2¾ hours at 325°F. A 3-rib roast 1½ to 1¼
Place the roast in the lower middle Rest period after roasting: A rest is es- (7 to 8 ½ pounds) hours
level of the preheated oven. In ½ sential after roasting so that the juices
hour check the oven to be sure all is will retreat back into the flesh. Allow A 2-rib roast 1 to 1 ¼ hours,
going well; baste the ends of the meat 25 to 30 minutes for a 5-rib roast, ( 4 to 5 pounds) which includes
with the fat accumulated in the pan. and 10 to 15 minutes for a 2-rib 15 minutes at
After 1 hour, strew the chopped car- roast. 450°F and
rots and onions around the beef; baste continuation at
them with pan fat and sprinkle with Approximate minutes per pound: ( 6- 325°F
the thyme. Baste again in another ½ pound roasts and on up-small roasts
hour, and, when 2 hours are up, be-
gin taking its temperature. When it
has reached 110°F, watch out-it
rises quickly from now on.
more roasting will bring it up several *Ahead-of-time note: If the wait is
degrees, to whatever stage of <lone- longer, after its rest set the roast any-
ness you prefer. where that it will stay warm enough
When is it done? For rosy rare at the
but will not overcook-use a warm-
large end, the temperature should be
Removing the roast. Remove the beef ing oven, but be sure the tempera-
120°F; the small end will be
to a platter or carving board and dis- ture cannot go over 120°F, or set the
125°F-test rapidly but leave the
card trussing strings; let it rest at roast in a pan or on a platter, cover
thermometer in for a good 15 sec-
room temperature for 20 to 30 min- loosely, and place over a kettle of al-
onds. Test in several places if you
utes, allowing the juices to retreat most-simmering water. You may keep
have any doubts-a few minutes
back into the meat. (You'll note that it warm for an hour or more.
the temperature will go up about 10
degrees as the meat juices gradually ( continued)
circulate from the hot surface to the
interior.)
VA RIATION
SPECIAL NOTE
Roast Top Loin of Beef
Horseradish Sauce
The top loin strip, also known as a
The quickest horseradish sauce is a New York strip, is the large lobe of
simple stirring-up of bottled horse- meat ~n our porterhouse steak ( page
radish, Dijon-type mustard, salt, and 191 ); it makes a beautiful roast.
white pepper into whipped cream or Being a boneless length of meat, it
so~r cream, using your taster as your does not have the visual grandeur of
Vertical English carving method the standing rib , but it is a cut pre-
guide. Here's a more elaborate
version. ferred by many beef buffs because of
Roast Prime Ribs of Beef (continued ) its excellent flavor, and by cooks, too,
For 2 cups because it is easy to roast, carve, and
Carving. An easy and attractive way serve. It's expensive!
4 to 5 Tbs bottled horseradish
to carve the roast is in the vertical
2 Tbs or more Dijon-type prepared
English manner (see illustration): cu Number of servings . A 4 ½ -pound
mustard
a slice off one end, turn the roast up boned and trimmed top loin of beef
Droplets of white-wine vinegar
on that end, and slice straight across serves 8 to 10 people.
1½ cups white sauce (2½ Tbs butter
the top with a very sharp knife. T he
and 3 Tbs flour cooked together
ham slicer shown here does an easy Preparations for roasting. All but a
without coloring; off heat 1½
carving job. 1/s-inch layer of fat should be sliced
cups hot milk blended in; season
off the top length of the roast, and
and simmer 3 minutes-page 272)
Suggested accompaniments. Rather than the meat should be tied around its
2 egg yolks
the usual mashed potatoes (however circumference at 1½ -inch intervals.
% to ½ cup heavy cream
welcome), you might accompany the Rub the exposed parts of the meat
beef with yellow squash cut into an- with oil. Arrange the beef fat side up
gel-hair julienne and sauteed in but- on an oiled rack in a shallow, rather
Stir horseradish, mustard, and vine-
ter ( page 2 94 ). Broccoli could be the narrow roasting pan.
gar to taste into the white sauce·
green vegetable, and the following
whisk in the egg yolks. Whisk ~lowly
creamy horseradish sauce would go Roasting- I ¼ to I ½ hours at 425°F
over moderate heat to poach the yolks
very well, as would a noble red Bor- and 350°F. Roast in the upper third
and thicken the sauce but do not
deaux or cabernet sauvignon. level of a preheated oven for 15 min-
bring it to the simmer. Whisk in the
utes, then turn the thermostat down
cream by driblets to make a sauce the
to 350°F. Several times during roast-
consistency of mayonnaise. Taste and
ing , baste the ends of the meat with
correct seasoning, adding more mus-
the fat accumulated in the pan. After
tard, horseradish, or whatever you
45 minutes, slice a large onion and
think needed. Serve warm or tepid.
strew it in the pan, then salt the
meat.
*Ahead-of-time note: May be made in
advance and reheated , or kept for a
short while over warm water.
When is it done? The beef is done to a Tenderloin of beef roast an even circumference from one
rosy rare at a meat thermometer end to the other. First, separate and
reading of l 20°F; l 25°F, for me- The tenderloin is the most tender as cut off the flap of meat at the butt
dium rare. well as the most expensive of all the end; it will make a nice steak for two
beef cuts, yet since it takes such a another day. Next, if you don't want
Serving and sauce suggestions. While short time to roast-3 5 to 45 min- the whole roast, cut off several inches
the roast is resti ng, skim the fat off utes-it is well worth considering of the small end, the filet mignon,
the juices in the pan. If you are carv- when you must put on an important and reserve for a saute or kabobs. Or
ing in the kitchen, turn each piece of dinner fast. First a few facts to help to even the roast, fold those several
beef in the pan juices before arrang- you with the general techniques. inches under the membrane side. Tie
ing it on a hot platter. If carving at the circumference of the roast with
the table, either make a deglazing Description . The whole prime or white butcher's twine at I ½ -inch
sauce on page 192, and spoon a little choice tenderloin weighs in at 8 to 9 intervals.
over each serving; or pass a bowl of pounds but when trimmed of cover-
Bearnaise sauce with the beef juices ing fat, membranes, and the long IF YOU CANNOT FIND WHOLE TEN-
beaten in. See also the Port or Ma- thin side muscle of meat attached to DERLOIN. By the way, use 2 short ones,
deira wine sauce on page 222. its length, it is down to a mere 4 cutting off the small ends if you wish;
pounds or so. The small end of its two will roast in approximately the
Carving. Carve straight down, like a long tapering shape begins in the same time as one.
loaf of bread. If the slices are less loin, inside the small of the back at
than 1/s inch thick, everyone may the end of the rib section. Its large
have 2 or 3 pieces for a generous end or butt is part of the sirloin or SPECIAL NOTE
look on the plate . hip, and is sometimes not included-
in this case you will be buying a An "Au Jus" sauce
"short tenderloin." for Beef Roasts
SPECIAL NOTE
NUMBER OF SERVINGS. A fully
While the roast is resting, skim ex-
trimmed 4-pound tenderloin will serve
TIMING NOTE FOR LOIN STRIPS AND cess fat from the roasting pan, pour
6 to 8 people.
TENDERLOINS. Boneless lengths of in a cup or so of homemade beef
meat such as the top loin and the tender- stock and bring to the boil, mashing
To trim a tenderloin of beef The side
loin are timed according to their dimen- the roasting vegetables into the liquid
that was next to the backbone has
sions rather than their weight in and scraping up coagulated juices.
ridges with fatty streaks. The other
pounds. A top loin 5 ½ to 6 inches wide Pour into a saucepan and simmer
side is covered with rather loose sur-
and 3 ½ inches high, regardless of several minutes , skimming off addi-
face fat; remove this loose fat and the
length and weight, will take 1 ¼ to 1 ½ tional fat; correct seasoning . Just be-
membrane covering the meat. Cut
hours, starting at 425°F and finishing fore serving, strain into a warm
and pull loose the side muscle of
at 3 5 0°F. A fully trimmed whole prime sauce bowl, pressing juices out of the
meat, which you might reserve for
or choice tenderloin will take 3 5 to 4 5 vegetables and adding any juices
the beef tenderloin saute on page
minutes at 400°F. from the roast. There will be just a
194. If you have the whole tenderloin
small delicious spoonful to moisten
with butt, you now want to make the
each serving of beef.
Roast Tenderloin of Beef Suggested accompaniments. You might Aromatic flavoring: 3 Tbs each
serve the platter of sliced tenderloin finely chopped onion and celery; 2
Roasting-35 to 45 minutes at 400°F. garnished with bouquets of beauti- Tbs chopped carrot; 1 small garlic
Brush the roast all over with melted fully cooked fresh vegetables, such as clove, chopped ( you may do these
clarified butter and set it fattier green beans and a julienne of carrots together in a food processor)
(ridged) side up in a roasting pan just and zucchini interspersed with the 1 Tbs lean chopped boiled ham
long and wide enough to hold it eas- potato galettes on page 324. Or con- Seasonings: 1 imported bay leaf, a
ily. Place it in the upper third level sider the lush gratin of potatoes big pinch of thyme, 8 parsley
of the preheated oven. In 6 to 8 min- baked in cream on page 323, or the stems, 1 allspice berry
utes, rapidly turn it and baste with broccoli-sauced broccoli on page 2 7 0. ½ cup dry white French vermouth
clarified butter. Turn twice more dur- As for wine, pick your best red Bor- or white wine
ing roasting, basting with butter, deaux or cabernet. 3 cups or so homemade beef stock
then with accumulated pan juices. (page 14 ), or a combination of
When 3 0 minutes are up, salt the beef and chicken broths
meat and start testing. 1 small ripe red tomato, chopped; or
OTHER SAUCE AND SERVING
SUGGESTIONS 1 tsp tomato paste
When is it done? It will begin to take Salt and freshly ground pepper
on a slight springiness when pressed, Bearnaise Sauce
Final touches
and it is done to rosy rare at an inter-
nal thermometer reading of 12 0°F. Bearnaise Sauce ( page 87) is always 1 ½ Tbs cornstarch blended in a
(See Special Note for timing details.) delicious with beef tenderloin. You small bowl with ¼ cup dry
might serve the sauce in large indi- Madeira or Port wine
Resting before carving. Remove from vidual broiled mushroom caps or in 1 to 2 Tbs butter, optional
the oven and let rest 10 to 15 minutes artichoke bottoms, and garnish the
before carving. Spoon the roasting platter with broiled cherry tomatoes The sauce base. Heat the butter in a
fat out of the pan, leaving the juices. and watercress. smallish heavy-bottomed saucepan,
stir in the chopped vegetables, and
*Ahead-of-time note: See the notes for saute over moderately low heat for 7
roast beef ( page 2 19). to 8 minutes, or until tender; raise
Madeira or Port Wine Sauce heat slightly and brown lightly, stir-
Carving. Remove trussing strings. ring, for several minutes. Stir in the
Carve the meat into slices from ½ to Madeira or Port wine sauce made in ham, herbs, wine, 3 cups of stock,
1 inch thick. If you are carving in the classic manner is marvelous but and the tomato. Cover loosely and
the kitchen, turn each slice in the pan takes 4 to 5 hours of simmering; this simmer 1 hour. Correct seasoning,
juices before arranging on hot plates is a more informal version. Your own and strain into a clean pan, pressing
or a hot platter. beef stock is always preferable be- juices out of the vegetables with the
cause it does not taste of the can, but back of a spoon. Skim off surface fat.
a respectable can will certainly do if You should have about 2 cups of fra-
there is no alternative. grant, beautifully flavored brown
liquid.
For about 2 cups
2 Tbs clarified butter (page 139) pleted in advance; when cool, cover
and refrigerate or freeze.
J ULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK MEAT 223
Final touches. Beat ½ cup of the base ROAST LEG OF LAMB Leg of lamb comes in several ways:
into the wine-cornstarch mixture, and the short leg, which does not include
pour that back into the base. Bring to Like a great roast of beef, a whole the sirloin (the hip and tail section),
the simmer, and simmer slowly 2 leg of lamb is a welcome sight on the the sirloin section, which is difficult
minutes . The sauce should be lightly family dinner table. And carving is to carve, or the whole leg illustrated
thickened; if too thick, stir in drib- dramatic when you hold up the leg here. Ask that the hip bone and tail
bles of additional stock. by its shank as you make long, wide, be removed to make carving easier;
thin, stylish slices down its length. or remove them yourself as
*Ahead-of-time note: May be com- Pink juicy lamb is marvelous eaten illustrated for the butterflied leg of
pleted in advance. hot, the leftovers are delicious with a lamb on page 2 12. Save the bones for
salad of tomatoes or in sandwiches, making the lamb sauce on page 225 .
Deglazing the roasting pan. Pour a ground lamb makes a moussaka or
little of the sauce into the degreased stuffs a cabbage, and lamb bones pro-
roasting pan, and simmer a moment, duce one of the great soups-Scotch
scraping up coagulated juices. Pour broth. Preparing the leg for the oven.
this back into the saucepan . At home, cut off all excess fat,
especially at the side of the large end
Serving. Just before serving, bring and the hip. Leave a thin layer of fat
the sauce to the simmer. Remove Choosing the lamb. For length- over the main body of the meat, and
from heat, and swirl in the optional wise carving you will want the lower leave on the fell (membrane also
butter. leg bone intact, not bent at the covering the meat). You'll note the
knee-you need that lower leg as a loose flaps of meat at the large end
handle for your elegant slices . where the hip and tail were removed;
skewer and lace them against the
Madeira or Port Wine Sauce large end. Either rub the exposed
with Truffies flesh of the lamb with olive oil or
fresh peanut oil, or paint it with the
Drain a I -ounce can of truffles mustard coating described in the
( pieces or peelings may be used Special Note on page 2 13.
here), and add the juice to the sauce
base in the sauce recipe. Finely dice *AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: The lamb
the truffles, and stir them into the may be prepared to this point a day in
wine-cornstarch mixture. Proceed to advance. Cover and refrigerate.
prepare the sauce, adding the wine-
cornstarch mixture with truffles at the Untrimmed whole leg of lamb
end, as described in the recipe.
The trimmed and skewered leg, hip bone removed

and at upper right
p MASTER RECIPE When is it done? The indications are

SPECIAL NOTE the same as for the roast beef on page
Roast Leg of Lamb 219: the meat begins to take on a
Temperatures for Lamb slight springiness when pressed, and
Whether it is a whole large leg, a after a reading of 110°F the tempera-
Always take the temperature of the boned and stuffed leg, the shank or ture rises rapidly. Plunge the point of
meat at the oven with an instant meat sirloin half, or the short leg, they all the thermometer into the center of
thermometer, leaving it in the meat roast the same way regardless of the bulge at the large end and wait 10
15 seconds so that it can register- timing. to 15 seconds, until the needle stops
when the lamb is finally out of the moving. 120°F for very rare, 125°F
oven, the temperature will rise some For 8 to 10 servings for rosy rare, 13 0°F for pinky rare,
10 degrees as the hot juices from the and at 13 0°F juices will begin to ap-
A 7- to 8-pound whole leg of lamb,
exterior circulate into the interior of pear in the pan. At 140°F for me-
prepared as previously described
the meat. (The following are in-oven dium, there will be quite a bit of
(hip and tail bones removed;
temperatures.) juice.
shank intact; knee not bent)
1 Tbs olive oil, or mustard coating
12 0°F Very rare Removing the roast. As soon as the
(see Special Note, page 213)
1 onion, roughly chopped lamb is done, remove it from the
12 5°F Rosy rare oven and place on a board or a plat-
3 large cloves of unpeeled garlic,
smashed ter; discard trussing strings. As for
130°F Medium rare-pink roast beef, the lamb should rest 15 to
½ tsp rosemary or thyme
20 minutes out of the oven before
140°F Medium-pinky gray, SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: carving so that its juices can retreat
the official "safe" tempera- A shallow roasting pan long enough to back into the meat.
ture where all harmful contain the lamb ( you may need to place
bacteria are killed foil under the ends); a rack for the pan; *Ahead-of-time note: Again, as for
an instant meat thermometer; a very roast beef, if the wait is longer after
Timing. Because of its bulging shape, sharp carving knife and a napkin for its rest, set the lamb anywhere that it
any leg from 5 to 8 pounds will take holding the lamb shank will stay warm enough but will not
1 ¼ to 1½ hours of roasting to reach overcook-use a warming oven but
an internal meat thermometer read- Roasting-]¼ to 1 ½ hours at 3 5 0°F. be sure the tern perature cannot go
ing of 125°F. Legs weighing 9 to 10 Place the lamb fat side up on the rack over 12 0°F, or set the roast in a pan
pounds may take 10 to 15 minutes in the roasting pan-if the ends of or on a platter, cover loosely, and
longer. meat overhang, make extensions place over a kettle of almost simmer-
under them with double folds of alu- ing water. You may keep it warm for
A boned and rolled leg takes a good minum foil. Set in the middle level an hour or more.
2 to 2 ¼ hours. of the preheated oven. No basting is
necessary if you have used the mus- Sauce. Either follow the directions
The shank end half should take tard coating, otherwise baste several for the "au jus" sauce in the Special
about 1 hour. times with accumulated pan fat. Note on page 221, or, for a larger
When 45 minutes are up, strew the quantity, see the lamb sauce at the
The sirloin half, as well as the onion and garlic in the pan, sprinkle end of this recipe.
Frenched or short leg (minus sirloin or over them the rosemary or thyme,
hip), needs about 1 ¼ hours. and baste with accumulated pan fat.
After 1 hour, start testing for <lone-
ness by taking the meat's tempera-
ture, doing so quickly so the oven
doesn't cool off.
A Little Sauce for until bones and onion are lightly col-
Roast Lamb ored. Stir in the flour; toss and turn
over moderate heat for 2 minutes, to
You want to make sure in making a brown. Remove from heat and let
sauce for lamb that it does not adul- cool several minutes.
terate the special flavor of the lamb
itself-the sauce should be an exten- Simmering. Slowly blend in the
sion of tastes, in other words. That chicken stock to mix well with the
means no other predominant flavors, flour. Add the wine, celery, and
like tomatoes, carrots, or beef stock. garlic. Bring to the simmer, and
Carving the leg
Onions, garlic, a whiff of celery, skim for a few minutes, until scum
parsley, and a little bay leaf, rose- ceases to rise. Blend in the herbs,
Carving. Holding it with a napkin in mary, or thyme are enhancers, and cover loosely, and simmer 1½ to 2
your left hand, raise the shank end of chicken stock is neutral but gives hours, or until you feel you have got-
the leg at an angle. With the knife al- body. The following sauce has a ten their all out of the bones-add a
most parallel to the surface of the slight liaison, and gives a little more little water to keep ingredients cov-
meat, start at the bulge midway be- per serving than a deglazing sauce. ered if necessary. Strain, pressing
tween the shank and the large end, juices out of vegetables, and de-
cutting a long thin flat first slice. Lift For 1 ½ to 2 cups grease. Correct seasoning.
it off, arrange it on a hot plate or
3 cups or so chopped raw lamb
platter, and start the next slice at a *Ahead-of-time note: May be made in
slight angle right or left. Continue, bones, such as the hip, and any
advance. When cool, cover and re-
angling your knife to either side as miscellaneous bones like neck or
frigerate or freeze.
you come to the main leg bone; fi- shoulder
nally turn the leg over to carve the 2 Tbs fresh peanut oil To use. After degreasing the roasting
underside. 1 medium onion, chopped
pan, deglaze with a little wine or
2 Tbs flour stock. Pour in the sauce and simmer
Suggested accompaniments. Home- 2½ to 3 cups chicken broth a moment, mashing the roasting veg-
made mashed potatoes, fresh green ½ cup dry white French vermouth etables into it as you scrape up coagu-
peas, and broiled tomatoes are tradi- or dry white wine lated roasting juices. Strain into a
tional American accompaniments, 1 medium celery rib, chopped saucepan, pressing juices out of in-
and always good with lamb. A favor- 3 large cloves of garlic, smashed gredients with the back of a spoon.
ite French one is a combination of A medium pinch of rosemary leaves
Bring to the simmer, skimming off
fresh green beans and dried beans- A small handful of parsley stems
surface fat. Season carefully to taste.
"haricots panaches" -and often To- Salt and freshly ground pepper
matoes Proven~ale ( page 3 0 6),
broiled with bread crumbs and
A heavy-bottomed 2 ½ - to 3 -quart
herbs. Another idea is the eggplant
saucepan
and tomato casserole, ratatouille, on
page 317, accompanied by sauteed
Brow ning the bones. Dry the bones in
potatoes. You'll want a red wine here,
paper towels. Set the saucepan over
such as a merlot or pinot noir, or one
moderately high heat with the oil,
of the Bordeaux.
and brown the bones, tossing and
turning fairly frequently. After 2 to 3
Leftovers. See Feasting on the Re-
minutes, toss in the onion and con-
mains following the lamb kabobs, on
tinue sauteing several minutes more
page 214.
VARIATIONS Removing cap meat. Starting at the

heavier end of the rack, cut and lift
Shoulder of Lamb off the fatty layer, leaving but a thin
covering over the eye of meat.
Shoulder of lamb is usually a third
less expensive than the leg, but it The remains. Save the bones for the
does need boning because of its com- lamb sauce on the preceding page.
plicated structure . And unless it When you remove the fat from the
comes from a young spring lamb- between-rib and cap meat (a labor of
hard to find outside of specialty mar- love), you can use the meat for the
Left , trimmed rack of lamb ; right , untrimmed
kets-it is less tender than the leg. lamburgers on page 201 or the mous-
The easy way here is to buy a boned saka on page 319.
rolled shoulder of whatever weight Rack of Lamb
you want, untie it, cut out visible fat, The rack is now trimmed and ready
slather the interior with an herbal fla- The rack makes an easy-to-roast and for the oven.
voring (a big handful of chopped elegant main course when neatly
parsley, 2 or 3 chopped shallots or trimmed, and there is serious trim- *Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared
scallions, 1 or 2 large cloves of ming to do-a 3 ½-pound rack car- in advance; cover and refrigerate.
garlic, pureed, ¼ teaspoon or so of ries some 2 pounds of fat and scrap
ground rosemary, and salt and meat (see illustration of the trimmed
freshly ground pepper). Tie it up and untrimmed). The rack is the
again, and brush with the mustard whole rib-chop section on one side of Roast Racks of Lamb
coating in the Special Note on page the animal-7 chops bound together;
2 13. Roast it as in the master recipe 2 racks will serve 4 to 5 people; you An intimate dinner for four? Roast 2
for leg of lamb, counting on 2 ½ should really count on 3 racks to racks of lamb, served rib ends up
hours to be on the safe side. serve 6. and interlocked on your heirloom sil-
ver platter. You can roast them as is,
Preparing a rack of lamb for cooking. but an herb and mustard coating
A practiced butcher should be able to gives a subtle added flavor, and the
do this for you but, as always, it is crumb topping an attractive finish.
useful to know how yourself.
For 2 racks of lamb, serving 4 or 5
The backbone. The backbone is re- 2 racks of lamb- 7 ribs and about
moved to make carving easy. With 3½ pounds each, untrimmed
meat saw and knife, very carefully weight ( 1 ½ pounds fully trimmed)
detach the backbone from the tops of The mustard coating (Special Note,
the ribs, starting at the rib side and page 213), minus the soy sauce
continuing around the lobe of meat to and garlic
the fatty top of the rack. ½ cup crumbs from fresh crustless
homemade type white bread
Frenching the ribs. From the fat- 2 Tbs melted butter
covered top side, trace a line across
the ribs halfway from the bone ends SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
to the meat; cut down through it to A jelly-roll pan for roasting
the rib bones. Remove the fatty lower
layer to expose the lower part of the
ribs. Cut and scrape the meat from
around the rib bones.
Preparations for roasting. Score the fat ROAST PORK: pork should reach 140°F-when it is
side of the racks lightly (make shal- THE LEG AND THE LOIN still almost rare. A reading of 150°F
low crisscross knife marks). Leaving is safer still, and particularly advis-
the rib ends free, paint the mustard When entertaining a crowd, give able for microwave users, since stud-
mixture over the tops and sides of the them something different-like a ies have found that bone-in pork
racks. Fold a double strip of foil over splendid roast leg of fresh pork that roasted in a microwave oven does not
the rib ends so they won't burn. will serve two dozen hungry guests. cook uniformly near the bone at
Except for its outside layer of protec- lower temperatures . However, I
*Ahead-of-time note: May be pre- tive fat, fresh ham, as it is also think pork develops its best flavor at
pared a day in advance; refrigerate called, is the leanest of meats, and higher temperatures.
covered. such wonderful flavor it has after a
couple of days in a spice marinade. In the days before instant thermome-
Roasting-about 30 minutes at 500°F The same is happily true for a loin of ters, when you roasted your meat
and 400°F. Preheat the oven and set pork, particularly the double loin, with the thermometer in place, I used
the rack in the upper middle level. which is the perfect pork roast for a to prescribe an internal temperature
Roast the lamb for 10 minutes at dozen guests. Both legs and loins are of 18 0°F-tastes change with the
500°F to sear. Reduce the thermostat easy to cook, and when they are bone- times. Many authorities suggest
to 400°F, rapidly spread the bread less, as they mostly are in today's 17 0°F-not the ((in oven" tempera-
crumbs over the top fat, drizzle on markets, they're easy indeed to carve. ture, but the temperature reached
the butter, and return to the oven. after the meat has rested. I now like
Roast another 20 minutes, to rosy an in-oven temperature of 15 5°F for
rare-125°F; the meat will be just alarge rounded roast like the leg,
lightly springy when pressed. Spice marinade note. The spice and since the hot juices at the exterior
marinade can be your own bottled circulate around to the interior, in 15
Rest before carving. Remove from the mixture, described for the pork minutes or so the temperature will
oven and let rest 5 minutes. chops in the Special Note on page rise to about 165°F. For the less hefty
203, or the combination in the recipe loin, I roast to 160°F, which rises to
Serving. If you are presenting the to follow. Although you may work it around 165°F. In both cases the meat
racks and carving at the table, ar- into the meat and roast at once , a is a pinky gray. The texture of pork,
range the two of them on the platter serious sojourn will give real penetra- while more compact than that of beef
rib ends up and intertwined. You tion of flavor-from 24 hours for a or lamb, should always have a certain
might tuck watercress under the rib loin, to up to 2 or 3 days for a boneless juiciness and its own porky brand of
space, and place a vegetable garnish leg. A spice marinade also makes for tenderness.
at the two ends. Cut into 1-rib por- unusually fine cold roast pork.
tions, serving 2 to 3 per person. TIMING. Always count on the longest es-
timate, since you can hold the roast per-
Suggested accompaniments. Although a fectly for an hour or more, and always
sauce is not necessary, you could pass Temperatures and timing for allow at least 1 5 minutes extra so that
a bowl of the lamb sauce on page the meat can rest before carving. If you
roast pork
225. Choose any of the vegetables want the full benefit of the spice mari-
suggested for the butterflied lamb on nade, start the proceedings at least a
Meat temperature reading. Trichinosis
page 212, or the preceding roast leg day or two before you plan to serve.
and harmful bacteria are taken care
of lamb. You'll want a fine red Make the sauce while the meat is roast-
of at an internal meat temperature of
wine-a merlot, cabernet, or ing, or complete it the day before.
13 8°F, when pork is almost rare. To
Bordeaux. be officially safe, all portions of the
~ MASTER RECIPE
Roast Leg of Fresh Pork
Here's the great roast leg of fresh

pork, its meat subtly spiced. It has
been boned, and the meat is neatly
tied into its original shapely form so
that it will easily carve into beautiful
thin slices to serve a big party.
A NOTE ON BONE-IN LEGS. You rarely

see an unboned fresh leg in local super-
markets, but you could probably order
one. The equivalent here would weigh
14 to 15 pounds and, at 22 to 25 min-
utes per pound, would take a good 5 or
more hours in the oven. Before roasting,
slice off the rind and all but a ¼-inch
layer of covering fat; spice it as de-
scribed in the recipe following, and
marinate it 3 to 4 days. To serve, carve
Roast pork dinner with rice and hashed broccoli, lower left; prune and apple garnish, upper right
it like the ham on page 232.
For 2 0 to 2 4 servings SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: the roast to re-form it in approxi-

White butcher's twine; a trussing needle mately its original shape, as pictured
A 7- to 8-pound boneless leg of fresh and/ or skewers; a roasting pan with here.
pork (fresh ham) rack; an instant meat thermometer
Salt and spice marinade Roasting-3 ¼ to 3¾ hours at 425°F
Spicing the leg. Remove the strings or and 3 5 0°F. Preheat the oven to
Either ¼ cup salt and 2 tsp of your
netting from the leg. Go over the 425°F. Dry the meat thoroughly with
own Spice Marinade (Special
outside, if necessary, slicing off all paper towels, brush it all over with
Note, page 203)
but a ¼-inch layer of covering fat. cooking oil, set on the rack in the
Or ¼ cup salt, 1 tsp freshly ground
Open up the roast and cut out any in- roasting pan, and place in the middle
pepper, and¼ tsp each of ground
terior fat. Mix the marinade ingredi- level of the oven. Roast for 15 min-
allspice, imported bay leaf,
ents in a bowl and rub them all over utes, rapidly basting twice with cook-
paprika, sage, and thyme
the inside and outside of the pork. If ing oil. Turn the oven down to
2 to 3 Tbs fresh oil you are planning on the full 2-day
An 8- by 10-inch piece of fresh pork marinade, place the meat in a closed
fat; or 6 to 8 strips of thick-sliced plastic bag and refrigerate it.
blanched bacon (Special Note,
page 142), to baste the meat as it Trussing the leg. Using white butcher's
cooks twine and/or a trussing needle or
1 each large onion and carrot, skewers, tie or sew the underside of
roughly chopped the meat. Lightly score the fat side
5 large unpeeled cloves of garlic, (make shallow cross-hatch cuts ½
halved inch apart), then loop string around
3 cups Port wine sauce, optional but
recommended (see end of recipe) Tied fresh ham, ready for roasting
350°F, drape the pork fat or VARIATIONS der blade at one end, the hip and ten-
blanched bacon over the meat (dis- derloin at the other, and the ribs in
card it during the last ½ hour), and Port Wine Sauce for the middle. While loin roasts do
continue roasting, basting exposed Roast Pork come bone-in, many markets now
flesh every 20 minutes or so with the buy it already boned; they cut some
fat accumulated in the pan. After All sauces of this type are essentially of it into boneless chops, and tie the
about 2 ½ hours, add the chopped the same in technique; follow the rest into loin roasts. The center cut is
vegetables and garlic. general method and proportions for the one to look for since it is the lea-
the lamb sauce on page 22 5, first nest; it is often folded, then tied,
When is it done? The first indication browning the pork bones with making a double loin roast 5 to 5 ½
is that meat juices begin to accumu- chopped carrots and onions, then inches in diameter. The single bone-
late in the pan. Start testing with the sauteing them with a little flour to less loin minus tenderloin, however,
thermometer shortly after 3 hours. It make an eventual thickening. Finally is best broil-roasted, like the butter-
is done at a reading of 15 5°F-take simmer them 2 ½ to 3 hours in wine flied loin on page 211 .
readings in several areas to be sure. and chicken stock, adding a couple of
Let it rest 2 0 to 3 0 minutes out of the chopped tomatoes, a stalk or two of To roast a boned double loin of pork. A
oven, then remove the trussing chopped celery, and an herb bouquet. 4-pound boneless center-cut boned-
strings. After deglazing the roasting pan with and-tied double loin roast makes a
the sauce and degreasing it, simmer splendid dish for 8 to 12 people, and
*Ahead-of-time note: After its rest, for a moment with a few tablespoons either of the spice marinades used in
you may keep the roast warm for an of Port, and it is ready to serve. the master recipe does much to en-
hour at around 12 0°F. See the direc- hance its flavor, especially if you can
tions for roast beef on page 2 18. allow 24 to 28 hours for it to accom-
plish its task.
Carving. Carve into thin slanting
Roast Loin of Pork
slices as shown. When you buy a bone-in pork loin Preparing and marinating the roast.
roast, usually part of the backbone Untie the roast. Slice off, if neces-
Suggested accompaniments. Hashed has been removed and the rest is sec- sary, all but a ¼-inch layer of exte-
Brussels sprouts (page 27 5), rice tioned between the ribs so that it may rior fat, and remove any interior fat.
soubise (rice braised with onions, be sliced into chops after roasting. Blend the marinade ingredients ( see
page 330), and the prune and apple Far more elegant and also easier to Special Note on page 203) in a small
garnish on page 177 are one sugges- serve is the boneless loin roast, which bowl, and rub them all over the
tion. Or rather than rice, your choice may be cut into attractive thin slices pork. Lightly score (make shallow
of the potato gratins starting on page by anyone with a sharp knife. If you cross-hatch cuts ½ inch apart) the fat
322; and there is never anything are in a hurry, however, do see the side of each loin , and reassemble
wrong with fresh green peas and broil-roast for pork loin on page them, fat sides out. The roast should
homemade mashed potatoes, espe- 211, which cooks in half the time . be quite even in circumference from
cially the garlic-mashed on page 321 . one end to the other: in other words,
See also the suggestions for butter- Pork tenderloin note. The pork ten- a thick end should be against a thin
flied pork on page 2 11 , and those for derloin is a lovely long thin tender end-if it is a whole folded piece of
pork chops on page 202. Serve a full piece of meat, and does especially loin, you may have to cut it in half to
white wine of the chardonnay type, or well when cut into serving pieces and reassemble. Make neat ties around
a light red like a merlot or Bordeaux. sauteed, as in the beef tenderloin var- the circumference at 1-inch intervals
iation on page 195. See also the Pork with white butcher's twine.
Tenderloin Salad, page 3 7 1.
Roasting-2 ¼ to 2½ hours at 350°F.
Buying the roast. The loin of pork Roast the meat fattiest side up in the
runs the length of the pig from
shoulder to hip; it includes the shoul- (continued)
Roast Loin of Pork (continued )
upper middle level of the preheated

oven, basting every ½ hour with the
fat accumulated in the pan . After 1½
hours, strew in the pan a chopped on-
ion and carrot, and 2 large unpeeled
smashed cloves of garlic. Continue
occasional basting, and roast to a
thermometer reading of 160°F. De-
glaze the pan as for the "au jus" sauce
in the Special Note on page 221 , or
the preceding Port wine sauce.
Carving. Carve straight down like a

loaf of bread, into slices less than ¼
inch thick-they will separate in two
as you serve them. Spoon a little
sauce over each. Other suggestions
for vegetables, and for wines, are in
the preceding master recipe.
Roast ham
HAM AND SMOKED SJ MASTER RECIPE 2 cups or so crumbs from fresh

SHOULDER crustless white homemade type
Braised Whole Ham bread
In wine and aromatic vegetables
About 9 0 percent of the hams in our
markets today are labeled "fully
Nothing takes the place of the whole A covered roaster just large enough to
cooked," and are convenient, too , be-
ham standing proud, but boneless hold the ham comfortably; a rack for
cause you don't have to buy the whole
hams and bone-in or boneless shoul- the pan; an instant meat thermometer; a
thing-only the shank half, the butt
ders may be substituted for the whole long sharp carving knife
half, or the big slice-and you can
ham herein described.
buy it bone-in or bone-out. On the
Preliminaries. Unwrap the ham; re-
other hand, rather than ham you may
For 2 4 servings, as a main course move any strings or cloth coverings.
prefer the smoked shoulder or "pic-
Scrub with a vegetable brush under
nic," which also comes with or with- A 14-pound bone-in fully cooked
warm running water to remove any
out the bone. It doesn't slice up as ham extraneous matter and/or preserva-
nicely as ham but it tastes just like it 1 cup each: sliced carrots, onions,
tives. (If the ham is too large for
and usually costs a third less per and celery
your roasting pan, saw off the
pound. 1 tsp each peppercorns and allspice
shank-although carving is easier
berries with the shank on.) Place the ham on
Just because it is labeled fully cooked 2 tsp sage or thyme
the rack in the roasting pan. Strew
doesn't mean you cannot cook it 3 imported bay leaves
the vegetables around it, sprinkle the
again-you can. Roasting, or most 1 bottle dry white wine, or ¾ bottle
seasonings over them, and pour in
particularly braising, actually en- dry white French vermouth or the optional wine. Add enough
hances its flavor besides giving out Port wine, optional but desirable chicken broth to make about 1 inch
some lovely juices to play with when Chicken broth of liquid.
you are serving it hot.
*Ahead-of-time note: May be com- Crumbing the ham, and brow ning in
pleted in advance; cover and the oven. Preheat the oven to 5 00°F. SPECIAL N OTE
refrigerate. Press the fresh bread crumbs onto the
ham, place it in the roasting pan, and Timetable for Braised or
Braising-3 ½ to 4¼ hours at 400° F baste with a sprinkling of ham fat or Roasted Ham
and 325°F. Preheat the oven to butter. Brown for 15 minutes or so in
400°F. Set the roasting pan on top of the preheated oven. The ham is now The timing is the same whether you
the stove and bring to the simmer; ready to serve either warm or cold. roast the ham in a 325°F oven, or
cover it and set in the lower third braise it. The in-oven meat ther-
level of the oven. In about 10 min- *Ahead-of-time note: The ham will mometer reading should be just over
utes, when the liquid in the pan is stay warm, loosely covered, for a 13 0°F, meaning that it will reach be-
simmering quietly again, turn the good hour or more, and may be tween 13 8°F and l 40°F after the
thermostat down to 3 2 5°F. Maintain served tepid. ham has rested and the hot surface
the liquid at a gentle simmer juices have circulated into the center
throughout the cooking, regulating The braising juices. Strain the braising of the meat. (The following figures
heat as necessary. Baste occasionally liquid from the pan, pressing juices are from the National Live Stock and
with the juices in the pan. It is done out of the vegetables with the back of Meat Board in Chicago.)
at an internal temperature of 130°F a spoon. Degrease the liquid and
on your meat thermometer-it will taste. If too salty, dilute with strong WHOLE HAM, bone-in or boneless:
eventually rise to l 40°F when it is plain chicken stock. Serve the ham 15 to 18 minutes per pound
out of the oven. Remove the ham to a juices as they are, or according to one
cutting board and proceed to the next of the following suggestions. HALF HAM , bone-in or boneless: I 8
steps while the meat is still warm. to 2 5 minutes per pound
Removing the rind. With a sharp SMOKED SHOULDER ("picnic"),

knife, cut off the brown rind. The bone-in or boneless: 25 to 30 minutes
ham will look a mess after this step, per pound
which is normal (see illustration,
step 1).
Removing the fat. There will probably Timing chart for fresh pork
be a thick layer of fat over much of roasts
the top and sides of the ham. Slice it
off, leaving on a ¼-inch layer. I. Removing rind and fat For legs , boned and tied: 25 to 30 min-
utes per pound
Trimming. Cut off any dark, tough,
or ragged pieces of meat and save For double loins , boned and tied: 2 ½ to
them for grinding or for making 3 ½ hours for a 4- to 8-pound roast
ham stock. On the underside at the 5 !/2 inches in diameter (timing de-
large end is the hip or H-bone, pends more on diameter than weight)
which you can easily dig out to make
carving easier, step 2.
2. Removing hip bone

SAUCE VARIATIONS
Cream Gravy
Boil the juices with an equal amount

of heavy cream until very lightly
thickened.
Clear Port Wine Sauce
After boiling up and seasoning 3

cups of the braising juices, blend ¼
cup of Port wine smoothly into 3
tablespoons of arrowroot. Remove
the braising juices from heat, whisk
in the Port mixture, and simmer 2 to
3 minutes.
Port Wine Sauce with Raisins
Follow the preceding recipe, but

plump ½ to 1/3 cup of currants
( small black raisins) in the Port wine
for ½ hour before blending with the
arrowroot.
Mustard Sauce
Blend together in a small bowl 3

tablespoons each of Dijon-type mus-
Carving the ham
tard, arrowroot or cornstarch, and
dry white French vermouth. Whisk
this into the ham juices, and simmer To Carve a Ham midway between shank and large
2 minutes. end. Cut toward you, holding your
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: knife almost parallel to the surface.
Staring the braising juices . If you are A really sharp knife ( the long gently (The first slice will be almost all fatl )
not planning on a sauce, pour the de- serrated "ham slicer" shown here is rec- Start the next slice a little farther to-
greased juices into screw-top jars and ommended); a napkin with which to ward the large end and continue,
refrigerate or freeze. Use to make hold the shank bone gradually angling your knife to the
the split pea soup that follows, or add left side and then to the right side .
a little to sauces, stews, and soups The best way to carve, I think, is to When you come to the bone, keep
when a subtle ham flavor is just what position the ham with the small angling the knife around it. For ele-
you need to give your dish that cer- (shank) end toward you and to make gant slices, use long smooth strokes
tain something of glory. long horizontal slices starting on top the length of the blade.
FEASTING ON THE hours with the kettle cover askew to

REMAINS OF A HAM allow for air circulation; salt lightly
after an hour or so and skim occa-
The largesse of leftover ham-the sionally. Strain and degrease.
stuffed cabbage rolls simmered in to-
mato sauce on page 3 04, the hashed *Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared
brown turnip cakes with ham and in advance; cover and refrigerate or
poached eggs on page 264, to say freeze.
nothing of plain and toasted ham
sandwiches. Here is split pea soup, The soup. Set the saucepan over mod-
and a main-dish ham and potato erately high heat, add the butter, and
casserole. saute the vegetables, stirring fre-
quently, for 5 minutes. Blend in the
flour (to make a liaison so the even-
tual pea puree will not sink to the
Split Pea Soup bottom of the soup); cook, stirring,
for 3 minutes. Remove from heat
Split pea is certainly one of the great and let cool briefly; blend in the hot
Split Pea Soup
main-course soups, as well as being ham stock, then the split peas. Bring
an easy one to make as long as you to the simmer, stirring. Cover
have the ham bones those peas always An herb bouquet: 3 imported bay loosely and simmer about 45 minutes,
seem to demand. The ham stock leaves, 1 tsp thyme, and 5 cloves or until the peas are tender-salt and
cooks first; that can be done way or allspice berries tied in washed pepper lightly to taste after ½ hour
ahead and even frozen. The split peas cheesecloth of simmering.
and aromatic vegetables then go into Salt
the stock, and in less than an hour of The Soup Finishing the soup. For a rough peas-
fuss-free simmering, your soup is anty texture, mash the peas and vege-
3 Tbs butter
ready for the table. 2/3 cup each diced celery and onions tables into the liquid with a mixing
fork. Or puree the soup through a
½ cup each diced carrots and
For about 2 ½ quarts, serving 6 vegetable mill or food processor. For
turnips or rutabaga
a very smooth texture, force it through
The ham stock 3 Tbs flour
a fairly fine sieve after pureeing.
2 quarts or so bones and scraps from 2 quarts of the ham stock, heated in
Taste carefully to correct seasoning,
a cooked ham and/or 1 or more a saucepan _
adding a little ham stock or chicken
well-washed and scrubbed ham 1 ½ cups green or yellow split peas
broth if the soup seems too thick.
hocks Salt and freshly ground pepper
3 quarts water, or water and leftover Garnish: 1 ½ cups small toasted
croutons (page 353), or½ cup
*Ahead-of-time note: Chill uncovered.
ham-braising juices or chicken
The soup may be refrigerated for a
stock diced ham sauteed in butter
day or two, or frozen. Bring to the
1 cup each peeled and chopped
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: simmer before proceeding, and check
carrots and onions
A kettle, for the ham stock; a heavy- seasoning.
1 large rib of celery with leaves,
bottomed 3-quart saucepan, for the soup
washed and chopped
Serving. Ladle the hot soup into
The ham stock. Chop up the ham bowls, and garnish with the croutons
bones and put them in the kettle with or sauteed ham.
the water to cover by 2 inches. Add
the ham scraps, chopped vegetables,
and herb bouquet. Simmer 3 to 4
Granny's Ham and Potato

Gratin for a Crowd
Here is a great crowd pleaser, as well

as a deliciously economical one that
needs only a copious salad, a loaf of
bread, and a jug of light red wine to
make the meal.
For 18 to 2 4 servings
10 pounds "boiling" potatoes

Salt
Garlic and mustard sauce (about 8

cups)
5 ounces (1 ¼ sticks) butter
1 cup all-purpose flour
6½ cups hot milk
A pinch of nutmeg
2 large cloves of garlic, pureed
¼ cup Dijon-type prepared mustard Granny's Ham and Potato Cratin
½ tsp thyme or sage
4 cups coarsely grated cheese- several slices to check. Drain, cover potatoes, then a quarter of the ham,
Swiss or a mixture such as Swiss, the kettle again for 3 to 4 minutes to follow by a third of the sauce, and
mozzarella, Jack, and/or Cheddar firm up the potato slices, then sprinkle on a third of the cheese.
1 ½ to 2 quarts cooked ham, diced, uncover. Continue in layers, finishing the final
thinly sliced, or ground (to make layer with the remaining potatoes and
6 to 8 cups) The garlic and mustard sauce. Make ham; spread on the reserved 3 cups
the classic white sauce described in of sauce to cover completely, then the
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: detail on page 272: cook the butter last of the cheese.
A food processor is useful for slicing and and fl.our together in the saucepan un-
grating; an 8-quart covered kettle; a til they foam and froth for 2 minutes *Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared
heavy-bottomed 3-quart saucepan, for without coloring; off heat pour in a day in advance; cover when cool,
the sauce; a buttered 6-quart baking half of the hot milk; whisk vigor- and refrigerate.
dish about 3 inches deep, for the final ously to blend as you pour in the rest;
dish simmer 3 minutes, stirring. Remove Final baking-about 45 minutes at
from heat and whisk in the season- 3 75°F. An hour or so before you plan
The potatoes. Have ready the kettle, ings; bring to the simmer again , taste to serve, preheat the oven to 3 7 5°F.
containing 4 cups of cold water. Peel carefully, and add additional season- Bake in the upper third level just un-
the potatoes and slice them ¼ inch ings to taste. til the potatoes are bubbling hot and
thick, dropping them into the cold the top has browned nicely.
water to cover as you do so. Cover Assembling. Spoon a 1/16-inch layer of
the kettle, and bring to the boil. Un- sauce on the bottom of the buttered *Ahead-of-time note: May be kept
cover and boil slowly 3 to 4 minutes, baking dish . Set aside 3 cups of the warm uncovered on a hot tray but be
until barely cooked through-eat sauce and I cup of the cheese for the sure not to overheat or the potatoes
topping. Now, to arrange everything and ham will dry out.
in 4 layers, start with a quarter of the
STEWS AND RAGOUTS
Stews are easy on the cook: brown the

meat while you're cooking tonight's
dinner, for example, set it to simmer
whenever you see a free couple of
hours, put it aside in the refrigerator,
and reheat it the next day-or the day
after that. It will only be the better
for a sojourn with its flavor elements.
SPECIAL NOTE
Beef Cuts for Stew
You want meat that can take long

cooking and still hold together rea-
sonably well-in other words roast-
ing cuts like the rib and the rump
will fall apart, and something like the
Counterclockwise from upper left: Meat Loaf Maison, Zinfandel of Beef, Rabbit Stew, Turkey Blanquette, eye of the round will shred.
and an Apple Tarte Tatin for dessert
You can get nice big pieces from the

POT ROASTS, BRAISED vor, too-the meats that require round-the top round and knuckle-
MEATS , STEWS , AND long, slow, moist cooking. Whether but I also go for the chuck, as pictured
RAGOUTS it is called pot roast, braised beef, on page 492. It has good flavor, is
lamb stew, or ragout of pork, and less expensive than the round, and
whether it comes as a whole roast or when you buy a chuck roast you can
T hese are the meats that sim-

mer quietly in wine, and on-
ions, and herbs , and other good
in bite sizes, each is made in essen-
tially the same way: first the meat is
browned, then it is simmered in a
fragrant liquid. Again, as so .often in
cut it up yourself. Then you are able
to remove excess fat and gristle, save
a small steak or two for another meal,
grind meat scraps for hamburger, use
things, filling the kitchen with
mouth-watering aromas-the succu- cooking, if you've tried one you've bones for beef stock, and have big
lent dishes that are the soul of good tried almost all, give or take a techni- chunks for your stew.
home cooking. They're made with cal trick or two. We shall start small,
the cheaper cuts of meat-a pot roast with that old favorite, beef stew, and Two useful books about cutting up
of beef serving 8 is half the price of end large with a stuffed and braised your own meat are: Cutting Up in the
the top loin roast , for instance . They breast of veal. Kitchen, by Merle Ellis (Chronicle
are often the cuts with the most fl.a- Books, San Francisco, 197 5 and re-
prints), and Save Money Buying
Meat, by Reggie the Butcher (Presi-
dio Press, Novato, CA, 1981).
tp MASTER RECIPE SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:

A heavy 12-inch frying pan; a covered
Zinfandel of Beef 3-quart casserole or baking dish, flame-
Chunky stew of beef in red wine proof if possible-or an electric skillet
This rich and hearty stew is the Browning the meat. Dry the meat
model and the master recipe for the thoroughly with paper towels-damp
rest. If you are out of zinfandel , use meat won't brown. Film the frying
another good young red wine and call pan with 1/16 inch of oil and set over
it simply Beef Stew in Red W ine. moderately high heat. When very hot
Assembling the beef stew
but not smoking, brown as many
TIMING NOTE. Most beef stews take pieces of meat as will fit in one layer
2 ½ to 3 hours, but can take longer, de- without crowding. Turn frequently to Finishing the stew. Pour the contents
pending on meat quality . I t is wise to brown on all sides-3 to 5 minutes; of the casserole into a colander set
cook stews a good hour or more in ad- transfer the pieces as they are done to over a saucepan; wash out the casse-
vance of when you plan to serve, since a the casserole. role and return the pieces of beef to
wait always improves fla v or.
it. Press juices out of the residue in
Assembling. Skim all but a spoonful of the colander into the saucepan; de-
SA UCE NOTES. The traditional beurre-
fat out of the frying pan (if burned, grease cooking liquid and taste very
manie sauce is suggested here, but see the
discard all and add fresh oil); turn in carefully for seasoning. You should
other possibilities in the Special N ote on
the sliced vegetables, stirring and have about 3 cups. Boil it down rap-
sauces on the next page.
tossing for 3 to 4 minutes to brown idly if its flavor needs concentrating;
lightly before scraping them out over remove from heat.
For 6 to 8 servings
the beef. Pour a cup of the liquid
3 to 4 pounds boneless beef stew into the frying pan, swishing and Traditional beurre-manie sauce. This is
meat cut into cubes about 1 ½ to 2 scraping up any coagulated juices, the flour/butter paste beaten into the
inches (see preceding notes) and pour into the casserole. Add the degreased stewing juices described in
Cooking oil garlic and 4 more cups of liquid to the Special Note on page 143.
2 cups sliced onions the casserole; fold in the tomatoes,
% cup sliced carrots bay leaf, thyme, and salt to taste. You *Ahead-of-time note: Let cool, cover,
5 to 6 cups liquid (all red w ine or a should have enough liquid almost to and refrigerate. Shortly before serv-
mixture such as 1 bottle of w ine cover the beef; add more if needed. ing, bring to the simmer, gently
plus beef stock or broth) folding for several minutes until well
2 or 3 large unpeeled cloves of garlic, *Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared heated through .
smashed a day in advance; cover when cool,
2 cups tomatoes ( 1 whole unpeeled and refrigerate.
tomato, cored and chopped, plus
canned drained Italian plum Stewing the beef 2 ½ to 3 hours or more
tomatoes) at 325°F. Bring to the simmer on top
1 imported bay leaf of the stove; cook at the slow simmer
1 tsp thyme either on top of the stove or in the
Salt oven, turning and basting the meat
3 Tbs flour and 2 Tbs softened several times until just fork-tender.
butter blended to a paste, for the (Note: if your casserole is not flame-
beurre-manie sauce proof, set it in a 42 5°F oven for 10
minutes or so, until the simmer is
reached; then reduce to 3 5 0°F and
start timing.)
Suggested accompaniments. The stew Steaming the vegetables. While the

has so much flavor in itself, accompa- stew is simmering, steam together, SPECIAL NOTE
niments should not clash with it. over 1 inch of water, 6 medium
You'll want something to sop up the peeled carrots cut into wedges ( page Sauces for stewed and
sauce-small boiled potatoes are tra- 285), and 6 medium round white braised meat
ditional, or rice, or noodles, or peeled turnips cut into quarters. Set
mashed potatoes (see the garlic aside, reserving the steaming water. A stew or a braise needs a sauce,
mashed following), or the golden About 3 0 minutes before the stew is since if the meat is not glazed with
puree of potatoes and carrots on page done, steam 6 medium peeled and something to hide its nakedness it
2 8 5, or just your own good French quartered potatoes. looks dry and unappetizing. Fortu-
bread. Broccoli or fresh green beans nately you have a number of choices,
and/or baked or broiled tomatoes Finishing the dish. Fold the vegetables including the traditional beurre
would go well, or lightly dressed into the finished stew, basting with manie flour-butter paste beaten into
salad greens. A sturdy red wine is the sauce. Boil down the steaming the final juices to give them a light li-
called for here, especially a zinfan- liquid to less than ¼ cup, and pour aison; the following Zinfandel of
del, or more of the red wine used in into the stew. Simmer several min- Beef is an example. An alternati ve is
the cooking, or a Macon or utes, basting the meat and vegetables the sauce ragout, where the meat is
Beaujolais. with the sauce. floured before simmering; this allows
the liquid to thicken as it simmers,
and when the stew is done the sauce is
done, too, as in the lamb stew ( page
ADDITIONS AND VA RIATIO NS
Beef Stew in Red Wine with 23 8). Another method is to simmer
Beef S tew in Red Wine w ith Onions and Mushrooms the meat in a classic brown sauce, as
Boeuf Bourguignon in the Paupiette of Beef Gargantua
Braised Garlic
( page 245). Two fat-free alterna-
Onions and mushrooms are one of tives, cornstarch and the flour slurry,
Garlic loses its fiery bite when thor-
the great combinations with beef in are discussed on page 244. These five
oughly cooked but retains its wonder-
red wine, as they are with chicken, in methods are interchangeable: substi-
ful flavor in a stew. Braise large
coq au vm. tute one for the other in any of the
garlic cloves as described in the Spe-
recipes to come. (A further discus-
cial Note on page 3 2 1: pour the
Omit the sliced onions in the master sion of sauces is in the pot roast sec-
braising juices into the stew, and
recipe; otherwise complete it as de- tion, Special Note, page 244.)
bury the garlic cloves among the
scribed. Meanwhile, prepare 24
pieces of beef just before pouring on
small brown-brai sed onions ( page
the finished sauce.
287), and saute 3 cups of quartered
fresh mushrooms ( page 3 13). W hen
the stew is done, fold into it the sau-
Beef Stew with a Bouquet of teed mushrooms and the onions with
their juices. Simmer 2 minutes to
Winter Vegetables
blend flavors, and the Boeuf Bour-
guignon is ready to serve.
Carrots, turnips, and potatoes are al-
ways good in a stew, whatever the
season, and this makes a full main
course. You may also wish to add the
whole garlic cloves in the previous
recipe .
Lamb Stews Lamb Stew with Wine and

Rosemary
Lamb stews follow almost exactly the
master recipe for beef stews. How- For 6 servings
ever, in this case we have a different
sauce method-the ragout. 4 pounds bone-in lamb shoulder
1½ cups sliced onions
Light olive oil or peanut oil
SPECIAL NOTE
½ cup or so flour in a dish
1 cup dry white French vermouth Flouring the lamb before browning
On Ragout Sauces
2 large unpeeled cloves of garlic,
smashed Browning the onions and lamb. Saute
In this useful method, the sauce
½ tsp rosemary the onions for 5 minutes in a large
makes itself as the stew simmers be-
1 to 1½ cups chopped tomatoes frying pan in a tablespoon or so of
cause the meat is floured before the
(unpeeled ripe red tomatoes; or a oil, letting them brown very lightly.
· simmering begins, and the flour
combination of fresh tomatoes Scrape them into your casserole. Just
gives the cooking liquid a light liai-
and drained canned Italian plum before browning them, set the lamb
son . It is the same idea as the lamb
tomatoes) or 1 tablespoon or so pieces on a sheet of wax paper and
sauce on page 225. You may use the
tomato paste toss with a sprinkling of salt and pep-
ragout method with any of the stews
2 to 3 cups lamb stock (page 215) or per, then toss with the flour. A big
and braises, including the preceding
chicken broth handful at a time, toss them in a sieve
beef stews.
to shake off excess flour. Brown the
Technical flouring note. Whether to lamb pieces a few at a time in the
season and flour the meat before or frying pan, as for the beef stew;
after browning is a matter of choice. transfer to the casserole, and deglaze
It is easier before, as suggested here, the pan with the wine, pouring it into
and I have not found any real differ- the casserole. Add to the casserole the
ence in taste between the two meth- garlic, rosemary, tomato, and enough
ods. When you season and flour the stock barely to cover the ingredients.
meat after browning, it is then best to
pop the casserole into a 45 0°F oven *Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared
for 15 minutes, tossing several times a day in advance; cover when cool
Ready-cut lamb stew
to brown the flour evenly-when and refrigerate .
browned on top of the stove it colors
unevenly and risks scorching. Preparing the lamb. Lamb shoulder is S immering-1 to I ½ hours. Simmer
often packaged ready-cut for stew, as either on top of the stove or in a
in the photograph; or you may buy 325°F oven until the lamb is fork-
lamb shoulder chops. Cut off excess tender.
fat and cut the meat into chunks,
about 1 by 2 inches. Unless you have Finishing the stew . As in the master
objections, leave the bones in-they recipe, pour the stew into a large
give added flavor; some will work sieve or colander set over a bowl, and
loose during cooking, and can then remove the meat (minus loose bones)
be discarded. to a clean casserole. Press juices out
of ingredients into the sauce, and de-
grease the sauce. Correct seasoning,
and pour the sauce over the lamb.
Reheat to the simmer before serving.
Preparing the vegetables. While the

preceding lamb stew is simmering,
trim (and "french" if necessary, page
2 7 6) I ½ pounds of fresh green
beans; shell enough green peas to
make about I cup. Blanch both beans
and peas until almost tender ( page
276), refresh in cold water, and set
aside. Peel 6 medium carrots, tur-
nips, and "boiling" potatoes and cut
into wedges; set aside in a bowl of
cold water. Peel 24 small white on-
ions, pierce a cross ¼ inch deep in
the root ends, and set aside.
Adding the root vegetables to the stew.

After the stew has simmered 1 hour,
drain it, remove loose bones, and de-
grease and season the cooking liquid.
Return the sauce and the lamb to the
casserole, bury the carrots, turnips,
potatoes, and onions among the pieces
of lamb. Cover and continue sim-
mering another 25 to 30 minutes,
basting occasionally, until lamb and
vegetables are tender. Correct season-
. .
rng agarn.
Spring lamb stew with polenta *Ahead-of-time note: May be com-

pleted somewhat in advance to this
point. Set aside, cover askew for air
*Ahead-of-time note: May be com- VARIATIONS circulation.
pleted in advance.
Lamb Stew Printaniere Finishing the stew. Shortly before
Suggested accompaniments. The same With a collection of spring vegetables serving, bring to the simmer, and
as for the beef stew, and in addi- bury the peas and beans in the stew.
tion-dried beans, and speaking of Fresh green peas and beans in the old Simmer several minutes to reheat,
them, see the lamb shank variation as days were the harbingers of spring, basting meat and vegetables with the
well as the fine collection of vege- and that's the classic term for this sauce. (You may wish to add a hand-
tables farther on . lamb stew-the best there is, but ful of fresh snow peas at this point;
only when all ingredients are fresh. tip and string them in advance, and
There's busy vegetable work here, saute briefly in hot peanut oil just be-
but all of their preparation may be fore adding to the stew.) Serve as
accomplished in advance, and this soon as possible so that the green veg-
dish makes a complete main course. etables will retain their bright color.
Ra gout of Pork with a Bouquet VARIATION WITH VEAL SHANKS

SPECIAL NOTE
of Vegetables
Ossobucco: Braised Veal
Chunks of pork shoulder make a Shanks About veal shanks
nourishing family stew, and a com-
plete main course as well. Do it al- This recipe, my favorite among nu- Ossobuco is the hind shank of veal,
most exactly like the preceding lamb merous versions, is the usual brown the marrow-bone hind leg from be-
stew with its carrots, turnips, onions, stew made like the preceding lamb, low the knee to just above the
potatoes, and the green vegetables, but with a zesty finale of finely ankle-a favorite Italian morsel
too, if you wish to use them. minced orange and lemon peel, either sawed into thick crosswise
garlic, and parsley. pieces, as in the ossobuco recipe, or
Preparing and browning the pork. Cut braised whole as in the variation for
3 pounds of pork shoulder into thick, Brow ning and braising the veal. For 6 lamb shanks on the following page.
2-inch slices, and trim off visible fat. veal hind shanks 2 pounds each
After sauteing the sliced onions in a sawed crosswise into pieces I ½ You'll want I hind shank per person.
frying pan and removing them to a inches thick, follow the recipe for But since they are not always to be
casserole, season, flour, and brown Lamb Stew with Wine and Rose- had, you may substitute foreshanks;
the meat in the frying pan, sprin- mary, using 2 to 3 cups of veal stock they are bonier and gristlier but have
kling it with I½ tablespoons of fra- or chicken broth rather than lamb a good texture when braised, and
grant curry powder the last minute stock. When the meat is tender, in their gelatinous quality makes a fine
or two . about I ½ hours, drain out, degrease, sauce. One prime foreshank includ-
and season the braising liquid; pour ing the knuckle will weigh around
Braising. Continue with the recipe, it back over the veal. 4½ pounds and serves 2 people.
simmering the pork for 45 minutes
in the casserole with the rest of the The final flavoring. While the stew is About lamb shanks
ingredients listed. After draining, braising, zest I large fine orange and
degreasing, and seasoning the sauce, 2 lemons ( remove colored part of Buying lamb shanks. Foreshanks
and returning pork and sauce to the peel only), and mince finely, adding (from the shoulder end) are meatier,
casserole, bury the root vegetables 2 large cloves of smashed and peeled larger, and usually cheaper than the
among the pieces of meat. (You may garlic and a large handful of fresh smaller, tenderer shanks from the
wish to include a head of large peeled parsley. Just before bringing the dish leg. You really have to buy by eye: I
garlic cloves, page 283.) Simmer an- to the table, strew the flavoring over or 2 whole small hind leg shanks per
other 25 minutes, or until meat and the stew, then fold it in as you begin person, or I meaty foreshank sawed
vegetables are tender, then bury the to serve. crosswise into pieces 2 inches thick.
blanched green vegetables in the stew
and simmer a few minutes more to Suggested accompaniments. Steamed
warm through. rice and a green vegetable such as
fresh peas would be attractive accom-
paniments, and a light red wine of
the merlot or Beaujolais type.
Lamb Shanks and Beans Finishing the dish. Fold into the sauce Lamb Chops C hampvallon
1½ cups of peeled, seeded, and Shoulder chops braised with potatoes
Lamb shanks braise in a winey aro- chopped tomatoes ( or drained and and onions
matic stock and finish their cooking seeded canned Italian plum toma-
with white beans, which absorb that toes), and 4 cups of cooked white ~hile loin lamb chops are a luxury,
lovely flavor. This country-style dish, beans ( page 3 3 2) or drained canned shoulder chops are far more reason-
this minor cassoulet and variation of cannellini beans. Bury the lamb able and make excellent eating when
our master lamb stew, also takes well shanks among the beans and sauce, browned and then simmered with
to ahead-of-time cooking and adding a little bean juice, if needed. some interesting flavorings-they
reheating. Simmer 10 to 15 minutes more, until need a longer cooking anyway to
the meat is tender but still clings to bring out their succulence. Serve a
Browning the lamb shanks and initial the bone. salad or fresh green vegetable along
simmering. For this recipe the lamb with this dish, and you have your
shanks are not floured, since the mam course.
beans will thicken the sauce. After VARIATIONS
sauteing the sliced onions called for Preliminaries with onions and chops.
in the first recipe for lamb stew, Saute and brown 1½ cups of sliced
Braised Veal Shanks with
brown the lamb shanks, and continue onions in a frying pan filmed with
Beans or Lentils oil, as in the recipe for Lamb Stew
with the recipe, simmering about 1¼
hours, until the meat is almost ten- with Wine and Rosemary. Mean-
Follow the preceding lamb shank
der. Drain, degrease, and season the while cut any visible fat off 6 lamb
recipe exactly, but substitute whole
braising liquid, and return it to the shoulder chops¾ to 1 inch thick-8
veal hind shanks for lamb shanks,
casserole. to 10 ounces per chop-and trim so
and use either beans, as directed, or
they will fit in one layer in a baking
cooked lentils (page 337).
dish 2 inches deep.
Assembling. Season the chops with

salt, freshly ground pepper, and a
sprinkling of thyme; arrange them in
the baking dish with 6 to 7 cups of
thinly sliced ((boiling" potatoes. Pour
in ¾ cup of dry white French ver-
mouth and 1½ cups of lamb stock
( page 215) or chicken broth. Mince
3 large cloves of garlic and add .
Chop enough fresh parsley to mea-
sure 2/2 cup (loosely packed), and
scatter over the potatoes.
Braising-I to 1 ¼ hours at 350°F. If

your baking dish is flameproof, bring
to the simmer on top of the stove ( for
quicker cooking). Top the dish with a
sheet of heavy foil and a cover, and
set in the middle level of the oven.
With a bulb baster, occasionally drib-
ble the pan liquid over the potatoes
until the chops are tender when
Lamb Shanks and Beans pierced with a fork.
Lamb Chops Champvallon (continued) BRAISED BEEF: POT The Beef to Choose
ROASTS
Final browning and serving. Raise The most attractive cuts are either the
oven heat to 425°F. Taste the cooking top round or the bottom round because
liquid and correct seasoning. Mix ¾
cup of fresh white crumbs (from
nonsweet home-made type bread) in a
bowl with ½ cup of finely grated
A pot roast is definitely home
cooking, the leisurely fra-
grant long-simmering kind known
they are solid pieces of meat with no
muscle separations, meaning that
they slice nicely. Other possibilities
affectionately in France as la cuisine are the boneless chuck shoulder pot
Swiss cheese, and spread over the po- m{jotee-slow-simmered cooking. roast, and the chuck eye roast with its
tatoes. Baste with the juices in the One rarely sees anything like it in a mixture of fat and lean. Both the
pan, and set in the upper third level restaurant anymore. The two terms, good-looking eye of the round and the
of the oven. Baste several times while braised meat and pot roast, by the more modest middle-cut brisket can
the juices boil down and thicken, and way, are synonymous, meaning meat be stringy when braised, but may be
the topping browns nicely- IO to 15 that is browned then simmered in a used successfully if you cook them
minutes . fragrant liquid-just like the preced- ahead so they will compact them-
ing stews and ragouts. But a pot roast selves before you reheat and carve
makes a more dramatic appearance them into slanting slices. Whichever
SPECIAL NOTE than a stew. It looks important, it cut you choose, the cooking method
makes fine cold meat for the picnic is the same.
To degrease soups, sauces, sandwich, and its leftovers can make
and braising liquids the dressy beef salad on page 2 5 0.
SPECIAL N OTE
The degreasing pitcher. This is
the simple solution-a glass or Timing for pot roasts
plastic pitcher with spout starting at
the bottom. Pour the clear liquid at You'll usually need a good 3 to 4
the bottom into a saucepan; stop hours for the actual cooking, but it's
pouring when the fat layer at the top wise to allow at least 5 so that the
enters the spout. If you can't find one meat may rest and firm itself up.
easily, look in specialty cookware Then it will carve nicely when
shops and cookware catalogues. See reheated.
photograph at right.
Degreasing pitcher
Chilling . An easy method when you

have the time is to set the pan with
the liquid in the refrigerator-or in
a bowl of ice cubes and water, if you
wish faster action . When chilled, the
surface fat will congeal on top of the
liquid and can be lifted or scraped
off.
S) MASTER RECIPE Assembling. Meanwhile, preheat the

oven to 400°F. Saute the chopped
Pot Roast of Beef vegetables in a frying pan with a
Bottom round of beef braised in red little oil to brown lightly, and turn
wme
them into the roaster with the
browned beef. Pour in the rest of the
This is the master recipe for braising
wine and enough broth so the liquid
a whole piece of meat , especially
comes a third of the way up the meat.
beef. Lamb , pork, and veal are done
Add the tomatoes and herb bouquet ,
in the same way but you would
step 2.
choose white wine for br aising rather I . Tying the beef
than red. Although it is a detailed
recipe you will note that the tech-
a day or two in advance; cover and
nique is the same as that fo r the pre-
refrigerate, turning the meat every
ceding ragouts-in other words, it's several hours. This will give the beef
just another var iation of Beef Stew in
added flavor, since it is in fact a wi ne
Red Wine.
marinade.
For 10 to 12 servings Braising-2 ½ to 3 ½ hours or more.

A 5-pound fully trimmed bottom Bring to the simmer on top of the
round of beef, all but an 1/s-inch stove, lay a sheet of aluminum fo il
layer of top fat removed (see over the beef, cover the roaster, and
2. Assembling the beef for braising
previous notes for other cuts to set on the lower rack of the oven .
use) (Or, if your casserole is not flame-
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: proof, set in a 42 5°F oven until the
2 to 3 Tbs fresh olive oil or peanut
White butcher's twine, if needed; a simmer is reached.) In 10 to 15 min-
oil
jelly-roll pan, for browning the meat; a utes, when the liquid in the casserole
2 to 3 cups young red w ine such as
z infandel, a good jug red, or covered casserole or roaster just large starts to bubble, reduce the thermo-
Macon, or Chianti enough to hold the roast comfortably stat to 3 2 5°F. Baste and turn the meat
1 cup each chopped carrots and several times, salt lightly in an hour,
omons Browning the beef Dry the meat in and maintain the liquid at a slow sim-
Salt and freshly ground pepper paper towels. If it has not been tied, mer throughout the cooking.
2 to 3 cups beef stock, plus more if secure loops of string around the cir-
cumference at 1½-inch intervals (see When is it done? The beef is done
needed
1½ cups chopped ripe red unpeeled
illustration, step 1). Paint the roast when a sharp-pronged fork wi ll go
with oil, lay it in the jelly-roll pan, through it fairly easily-cut off and
tomatoes and/or sufficient fresh
tomatoes and drained canned and place 2 to 3 inches from a hot eat a piece to check: it will be some-
Italian plum tomatoes
broiler element; turn every several what chewy but reasonably tender.
An herb bouquet: 6 parsley sprigs
mi nutes to brown all sides nicely-
with stems; 6 peppercorns; 3
10 to 15 minutes in all. (Note: If Remove the meat to a board or tray.
w hole cloves; 4 allspice berries; 1
your broiler is not efficient, brown Strain the braising liquid into a
tsp thyme; 2 or 3 large cloves of
the beef in a large fryi ng pan.) Ar- saucepan, pressing juices out of the
garlic, smashed; 1 large imported
range the meat in the casserole or vegetables. Return the beef to the
bay leaf-tied together in washed
roaster; deglaze the pan with a little roaster.
cheesecloth
of the wine and pour over the meat.
Salt to taste
2 Tbs cornstarch blended w ith 2 T bs
red wine or dry white vermouth,
plus more if needed
Pot Roast of Beef (continued) and wine. Pour the sauce over and Suggested accompaniments. The simple
around the beef. earthy accompaniments are often
The cornstarch-thickened sauce. Thor- those the most appreciated with
oughly degrease the braising juices *Ahead-of-time note: You may now braised beef-noodles, mashed pota-
(see Special Note) and bring to the cover the casserole loosely and keep it toes, or the carrot and potato puree
simmer, skimming off any additional warm. Or let it cool, then cover and on page 2 8 5, for instance; these make
fat that rises. Taste very carefully for refrigerate it; reheat for a good ½ an attractive bed for slices of meat
strength and seasoning; if the liquid hour either on top of the stove or in a and sauce. You'll also want a green
is weak in flavor, boil down rapidly 325°F oven. vegetable, like beans, peas, broccoli,
to concentrate it. You should have 2 or Brussels sprouts. Or you could
to 2 ½ cups of deliciously winey meat Serving. Remove the meat to a carv- have a bouquet of such homey vege-
juices. Correct the seasoning, remove ing board or hot platter, and discard tables as steamed turnips, carrots, on-
from heat, and whisk in the corn- the trussing strings. Either carve it ions, and potatoes, as suggested for
starch mixture. When blended, re- in the kitchen or bring it to the table the beef stew on page 23 7, as well as
turn to heat and simmer 2 minutes. for carving. In this case spoon a little other suggestions in that group. An
The sauce should just coat a spoon sauce over the meat to glaze it, deco- uncomplicated young red wine, such
lightly, meaning it will coat the meat rate the platter with parsley sprigs, as that used in the cooking, or a zin-
lightly-if too thin, thicken with an- watercress, or vegetables, and pass fandel or Beaujolais would be your
other spoonful or so of cornstarch the sauce separately. best choice.
SPECIAL NOTE Thickening with cornstarch. the judges. U nthickened cooking

This is the easiest and quickest of the juices dried up, leaving the meat
Further Remarks on Sauces sauce methods: the thickened juices parched and naked. Roux-thickened
for Pot Roasts, Braises, and look like a real sauce, and it has the and starch-thickened sauces
Stews advantage of being fat-free. The corn- coagulated on top of the meat,
starch method appears in the following looking gluey and unappetizing. It
When meat is stewed or braised it is recipe for pot roast of beef. The dis- was only the slurry sauces that
cooked so long that its juices have advantage is that cornstarch is at times retained an agreeably moist and fluid
combined with and enriched the less stable than flour, meaning it may appearance throughout the long wait.
braising liquid-giving the braising once in a while break down during The disadvantages are that flour
liquid its wonderful flavor but leav- reheating, but you can always repeat slightly whitens the sauce, and that if
ing the meat dry. It most definitely the process with more cornstarch. Pro- you add too much the sauce tastes
wants a sauce cover of some sort. The portions: I tablespoon of cornstarch floury. Used like cornstarch but with
same is true of the preceding stews; blended to a paste with 1 tablespoon great care, it produces a fine sauce.
their sauces are the cooking juices of wine or stock per cup of sauce.
thickened with a beurre-manie flour-
butter paste, or the ragout type,
where the meat was floured lightly The classic brown sauce . After
before browning. You may use either The slurry sauce -a flour and browning the meat, you make a
of these two systems for any of the wine thickener. This old-fashioned brown roux (flour and oil or fat
braised meats in this section, but here method is not considered chic, but it slowly browned together in a
are three more ideas to fill you out on has its place. I first ran into the saucepan), and combine the roux
the complete sauce picture . slurry during one of the National with the wine and stock for the
Beef Cook-offs, where contestants braise. Your sauce is ready-made
made stews and braises that had to sit when the meat is done. The Paupiette
around for several hours on their Gargantua variation, after the pot
platters, waiting for the decisions of roast, is an example.
Paupiette of Beef Gargantua SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: The braising sauce. Make a brown
Bottom round of beef stuffed with The equipment called for in the master roux as described in the Special Note
mushrooms and braised in red wine recipe; a food processor is useful for on this page with the ½ cup of flour
mincing onions and chopping meat and 3 to 4 tablespoons of oil. Whisk
Here is a grand dish for a crowd, es- in 2 cups of the beef stock; when
pecially since you can get all the Preparing the beef. Lay the beef thoroughly blended pour it around
cooking done well in advance. The lengthwise, top side up (the smoother the beef, adding the rest of the stock,
beef is slit open on one side, and of the two wide sides). With your and the wine, then stirring to blend.
about a third of the interior meat is sharp knife, make a lengthwise Add the remaining braising
removed to be ground and mixed pocket in the beef, removing the ingredients.
with a mushroom duxelles, herbs, middle third of the meat so as to
etc., then returned to stuff the meat leave a thick shell open at one small *Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared
before trussing and braising. end and open at one long side. Rub in advance, as for the master recipe.
inside and out with a light smearing
For 15 to 2 0 servings of oil, sprinkle inside with salt and Braising-2 ½ to 3 hours or more.
pepper, and a good pinch of herbs. Braise the beef as described in the
A 10- to 12-pound fully trimmed
Puree several cloves of garlic into a master recipe, but do not turn it-
bottom round of beef, covering fat
bowl, mash with ¼ teaspoon of salt, baste every ½ hour or so . When
removed but left in one piece (to
blend in a spoonful of oil; smear this done, remove it to a board or tray.
be tied around the beef for
inside the meat with a rubber spatula. Strain the sauce into a saucepan,
braising)
Olive oil or fresh peanut oil pressing juices out of the vegetables.
Stuffing and browning the beef With a Return the beef to the casserole;
rubber spatula, spread the stuffing in- cover loosely with the foil and the
Dried thyme or Italian herb mixture
side the beef, but do not cram it too pan cover.
Several large cloves of garlic
full-you will have some left over,
The mushroom duxelles stuffing
which will make first-rate hamburg- Finishing the sauce. Thoroughly de-
(page 160), omitting the chicken
ers or stuffing for vegetables. Sew or grease the sauce, bring it to the sim-
breasts and sour cream and
skewer the meat to enclose the stuff- mer, skimming off any fat that rises
adding ground beef removed from
ing completely, and tie loops of string for several minutes. Taste very care-
the roast, ½ cup pork breakfast
around the circumference at 2-inch fully for strength and seasoning; if it
sausage meat, and ½ cup grated
intervals. Dry the beef thoroughly, is too thin, boil it down rapidly; if
Swiss cheese
paint with oil, lay it in an oiled jelly- too thick, thin out with spoonfuls of
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
roll pan, and brown slowly under the beef stock.
3 to 4 Tbs oil
broiler, turning as necessary. Tie the
Double the braising ingredients in
reserved fat (cut from the top of the *Ahead-of-time note: Follow the direc-
the preceding master recipe
beef) over the top and sides of the tions in the master recipe.
( wine, stock, chopped carrots and
roast, and transfer to the covered
onions, garlic, tomatoes, and herb
roaster. Deglaze the jelly-roll pan
bouquet)
with a little of the wine and pour
over the beef.
VAR IATIONS
SPECIAL NOTE An All-Purpose Brown
Sauce Stuffed and Braised Flank
Brown roux and the classic Steak
brown sauce Let the roux cool 2 minutes; gradu-
ally whisk in 2 cups of warm beef A less elaborate presentation for an
It is a luxury to have a modest hoard stock, and when well blended whisk informal dinner is the stuffed flank
of brown sauce on hand when you in a cup of red wine or dry white steak, done almost exactly like the
need a light liaison for a meat French vermouth and another 4 cups preceding paupiette.
sauce-add a spoonful or so to the of stock. Blend in ½ cup of cooked
deglazing juices of a roast or a saute, mirepoix ( diced aromatic vegetables, Preparing the steak. To serve 6
simmer a moment, and the sauce is page 297), 2 tablespoons of tomato people, slit a pocket in the side of a
made. paste, and add an herb bouquet. Sim- 2-pound flank steak, and season the
mer very slowly, loosely covered, interior lightly with salt and freshly
skimming off fat and scum as neces- ground pepper. Make 2 cups of stuff-
Brown Roux for the Classic sary, for 2 hours or more. Add a ing from the selection on page 184-
Brown Sauce little more stock if liquid red~ces too the Ground Beef with Olives and
much-the sauce should be a lightly Pine Nuts is especially recom-
For about 6 cups of sauce, blend ½ thickened, deeply flavored, rich dark mended. Spread the stuffing in the
cup of flour in a small heavy sauce- brown. pocket. Skewer the pocket closed.
pan with enough clarified butter or Film a large frying pan with oil, and
fresh peanut oil to make a loose paste. *Ahead-of-time note: Chill uncovered. brown the steak on both sides.
Stir over moderately low heat with a The sauce may be refrigerated for
wooden spoon for 6 to 8 minutes, or several days in a covered container or Braising-about 2 hours. Prepare the
until the roux slowly turns a nice me- frozen-freeze it in small batches for braising ingredients as described in
dium brown. Remove from heat. quick thawing in the microwave. the master recipe, but using only
about a third of the amount specified;
*Ahead-of-time note: You could double simmer the steak either in the oven
or quadruple the proportions here , or on top of the stove, basting once
and refrigerate the extra in a covered or twice with the braising liquid.
jar-a cooked roux will keep almost
indefinitely. Sauce and serving. Degrease the cook-
ing liquid and make the cornstarch-
thickened sauce as described in the
master recipe, napping the steak with
a little of the sauce before bringing it
to the table. Pass the rest of the sauce
separately. Carve the meat into slant-
ing crosswise slices.
Breast of Veal
Every once in a while you'Hsee a sale

on prime veal breasts-and if they're
down to a reasonable price per
pound, grab a couple because veal
freezes well. When you make a
pocket in the boned brisket (front
section of the breast) and stuff it, and
braise it, you have wonderful eating
either hot or cold.
MANUFACTURING NOTE. For this rec-

ipe you want the boned brisket, a little
ground veal for the stuffing, and some
bones to make a veal stock. You won't
readily find all these items at hand, but
if you do find the whole breast, put the
home butcher to work as follows.
The breast of veal. The whole breast

·from one side of a prime veal carcass Braised stuffed breast of veal
weighs about 7 pounds. The front
half ( see illustration, step 1), the tri-
angular left-hand piece in the photo- and slicing off excess fat, you will
graph, is the brisket that is to be have the 2 ½ -pound triangular piece
stuffed and braised; it weighs about 4 of meat ready for stuffing at left in
pounds. The right-hand side, with its the photograph. The bones at right ,
7 ribs, is the plate; part of its meat is chopped up, are waiting to create a
saved for another meal, its meat veal stock.
scraps will go to stuff the brisket,
while the bones, added to the brisket To bone the plate. Slice off the skirt-
bones, will make a beautiful stock for the flap of meat covering part of the
the braising. ribs in photograph 1, right side. Cut
C utting breast in two: left side is brisket to be
around and remove the ribs and the
stuffed
To bone the brisket. Counting the ribs prolongation of the breastbone. Cut
from the small end, separate the off the thick meaty part of the plate
breast between ribs 6 and 7. Cut that contained the end of the breast-
around and under the rib bones of bone; package it for stewing or
the brisket (the triangular 6-rib sec- grinding and another meal. Chop the
tion); pull up and break each away bones and add to the stock pile, pho-
from its cartilaginous attachment to tograph 2.
the breastbone. Cut around the con-
volutions of the breastbone, and re- Other usable meat . Scrape usable meat
move it . After boning out the brisket from the memb ranes covering the
plate, skirt, and ribs; grind the meat,
and use in the stuffing. Brisket at left, bones for stock at ri ght
Braised Stuffed Breast

SPECIAL NOTE
of Veal
Your Own Veal Stock The stuffing here is veal, pork, rice,
and Swiss chard, the chard giving an
Veal stock is akin to chicken stock but
attractive green speckle to the meat
has much more body because of the
when it is carved. Other stuffing pos-
gelatinous quality of veal bones.
sibilities begin on page 184, of which
Since prime veal is not available in
the mushroom duxelles would be a
many markets, a veal stock is some-
worthy substitute. I. Spooning stuffing into pocket
what of a rarity in home cooking
nowadays . It freezes perfectly and is
For 6 servings
well worth having on hand for such The stuffing. Spoon the stuffing into
events as a veloute sauce for a blan- A 2½- to 3-pound boned prime the pocket, but don't fill it too full,
quette-veal stew, as adapted from brisket of veal ( about 7 pounds step 1. Skewer the pocket to enclose
the chicken blanquette on page bone-in, as previously described) the stuffing, step 2 . Brush the veal
147-or another especially fine Sausage and Swiss Chard Stuffing with oil, and brown it on both sides
sauce. (see Special Note, page 250) in the frying pan.
2 to 3 cups olive oil or peanut oil
For about 1 quart ½ cup dry white French vermouth Assembling. Transfer the meat to the
or white wine casserole, deglaze the frying pan with
2 or more pounds (2 quarts or so) a little of the vermouth or wine, and
veal bones chopped into 2-inch Braising ingredients
pour it over the veal. Surround with
pieces 1 large unpeeled tomato, chopped the braising ingredients, including
1 to 2 Tbs oil 2 large unpeeled cloves of garlic, enough stock to come two thirds the
1½ cups in all: chopped celery, smashed way up the ingredients, step 3.
onions, and carrots 1 big onion stuck with 2 cloves
Salt An herb bouquet: 4 parsley sprigs, 1 *Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared
imported bay leaf, ½ tsp thyme- a day in advance; refrigerate covered.
Browning the bones. Toss the bones in tied together in washed
a baking pan with the oil and vege- cheesecloth Braising-about 2 ½ hours at 325°F.
tables. Brown lightly for 3 0 to 40 Following directions in the master
Either 3 to 4 cups of your own veal
minutes in a 400°F oven, turning recipe ( page 236), braise the meat,
stock (see Special Note on this
once or twice. Transfer to a saucepan, turning and basting twice, until
page) or chicken stock
pour browning fat out of the baking tender.
pan, and deglaze the pan with a cup 2 Tbs each cornstarch and white
of water. Pour the deglazing water vermouth or white wine, blended Sauce and serving. Finish as in the
into the saucepan. Add additional in a small bowl for the final sauce preceding recipe.
water to cover the ingredients by 1
inch. Bring to the simmer, skim off SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
scum for several minutes, and salt A baking pan and large saucepan for the
lightly. Simmer 3 to 4 hours, par- stock; a 10-inch frying pan and mixing
tially covered. Strain and degrease. bowl for the stuffing; a casserole or cov-
ered roaster just large enough to hold
*Ahead-of-time note: Chill uncovered. the veal and vegetables
Will keep several days in a covered
container, or may be frozen. Stuffing and browning the veal. Make a
pocket in the veal by slicing from the
large end toward the point, but not
piercing the sides. 2 . Stuffed , skewered , and ready for braising
Smothered Brisket of Beef

Slow roasted with tomatoes and herbs
An extremely simple method for such

braising cuts as beef brisket, and
chuck or round steaks 2 inches thick.
No browning, no tying, no stuffing,
no fussing-and even no saucing.
Cover the meat with chopped onions,
tomatoes, and herbs, top it with foil,
and set it in a 3 00°F oven, where it
quietly simmers to tenderness, mak-
ing its own delicious sauce. No mat-
ter that this is not a true braise since
the meat is not browned; it makes
prime eating.
TIMING NOTE. You may assemble, cook,

and serve the brisket with no delays, but
both the 24-hour marinade and the final
rest and reheating bring it to its
optimum. Smothered Brisket of Beef with vegetables
For 6 to 8 servings
Assembling. Trim excess fat off the *Ahead-of-time note: The dish may be
A 4-pound fresh brisket of beef briske~, but leave an Vs-inch layer on prepared to this point in advance,
(single brisket, center cut), or a the fatty side. Mash ½ teaspoon of and will be even better if refrigerated
chuck or round steak 2 inches salt and the thyme into the garlic to for several hours or more .
thick make a paste; beat in the oil and pep-
Salt per. Spr_ead over both sides of the Slow-roasting-3 ½ to 4 hours at
½ tsp thyme brisket. Place the meat fat side ·up in 3 00° F. Set the dish in the middle
1 or 2 large cloves of garlic, pureed the roasting pan. Spread on the toma- level of the preheated oven. Check on
into a small bowl toes and onions, and season lightly progress and baste the meat with ac-
¼ cup fresh olive oil or salad oil with salt. Cover tightly with foil. cumulated juices about every ½
1/s tsp freshly ground pepper hour. The brisket is done when a
2 cups cored but unpeeled chopped fork pierces it quite easily, but it
fresh ripe tomatoes ( or a should still hold its shape. (Note that
combination of fresh tomatoes brisket is never tender like steak, but
and canned Italian plum it should be pleasantly chewable and
tomatoes) will have a real beefy flavor.)
1½ cups sliced onions
*Ahead-of-time note: Optional resting
before serving-from I hour to 24
A wide roasting pan large enough to
hold the raw brisket easily; heavy-duty (continued)
foil to cover the pan; if needed, a
3. Assembling
smaller pan for final cooking
Smothered Brisket of Beef (continued) FEASTING ON THE

SPECIAL NOTE REMAINS
or more. Transfer the brisket with its
vegetables to a smaller pan-it will Sausage and Swiss Chard
have shrunk. Degrease the juices and Stuffing
pour them over the meat. Chill un- For veal, beef, and braised cabbage A Salad of Cold Roast or
covered. May then be covered and Braised Beef
kept under refrigeration for a day or 1 cup minced onions
two. 2 Tbs butter Some of the best main-course salads
6 to 8 large leaves of Swiss chard are made out of cold roast or braised
Sauce. Cover and reheat for 20 min- ½ cup ( ¼ pound) each sausage meat beef, like the suggestion here. See
utes or so in a 350°F oven, basting 2 and ground veal also the Syrian salad with cold roast
or 3 times with the juices. Remove 1 cup boiled rice lamb on page 214, which could be
the meat with its vegetable topping to ½ cup grated Swiss cheese adapted for beef.
a carving board. Pour the juices into Seasonings: ½ tsp salt, ¼ tsp thyme,
a saucepan, degrease them, and rap- freshly ground pepper; more as For 6 people, make about 1 cup of
idly boil them down almost to a needed vinaigrette sauce, seasoned with shal-
syrup. (Or, if you want more of a lots and a good dollop of Dijon mus-
sauce, thicken the juices with 1½ · While sauteing the minced onions tard, page 3 51. You should have
Tbs cornstarch blended with 2 Tbs slowly in the butter, pull the white about a pound of cold beef carved
wine or stock, as described in the central rib out of the chard. leaves. into thin slices (about 2 generous
master recipe on page 244; serve in a Drop the leaves into a pan of boiling cups) . If it is brisket, cut the slices in
sauceboat.) water and boil 5 minutes; drain, re- half crosswise, then into thirds
fresh in cold water, squeeze dry, and lengthwise. Marinate on a large pie
Serving. Carve the meat across the chop. Stir 1 packed cup of the chard plate or platter with a sprinkling of
grain into thin slanting slices, and ac- leaves into the onions and saute 2 thyme and several tablespoons of the
company each serving with a spoon- minutes; scrape onions and chard into vinaigrette, basting several times-
ful or two of sauce and vegetables. a mixing bowl. Beat into them the several hours of marinating are use-
sausage, ground veal, rice, cheese, ful if you have the time.
Suggested accompaniments. The and seasonings. Saute a small spoon-
steamed potatoes and carrots pictured .fol; taste, and add whatever you Assembling. Line a serving platter
here are a perfect accompaniment. A think needed-it should be delicious, with lettuce leaves tossed in a spoon-
healthy young red wine is the best and slightly overseasoned if to be ful or so of the vinaigrette. Mound 2
choice, like a zinfandel or Beaujolais. served cold. to 3 cups of potato salad (French or
American, page 362) in the middle.
*Ahead-of-time note: The stuffing may Arrange the brisket slices around the
be prepared in advance and refriger- potatoes, and decorate the platter to
ated; if you are stuffing meat in ad- your fancy with such items as toma-
vance, be sure to let the stuffing cool toes, hard-boiled eggs , black olives,
beforehand. rings of red onions, parsley, etc.
J ULI A CHILD THE WAY TO COOK MEAT 251
GROUND MEAT
MIXTURES
MEAT LOAF, FRENCH PATES, CITY

SCRAPPLE, AND YOUR OWN ITALIAN
SAUSAGES
It is hard to think of a magnificent

French pate as having its origins in
scraps-the otherwise unusable left-
overs from the butcher's block. Hap-
pily, what on earth to do with tag
ends and rejects has given rise over
the centuries to some of our most
lofty creations, as well as to such use-
ful domestic favorites as meat loaf
and scrapple .
A NOTE ON FAT. Like hamburgers,

ground meat mixtures need a certain
amount offat or they are dry in the
mouth. A great deal of the fat cooks out,
but a good meat loaf or pate is not diet
food. Carl Sontheimer, American father
of the food processor, has done some ex- ~ MASTER RECIPE SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
periments using cooked brown rice to re- A frying pan for the onions; a large
place fat; rice, brown or white, does A Beef and Pork Meat Loaf mixing bowl; for baking-a 2-quart
indeed make for a moister low jat pate. loaf pan, or a jelly-roll pan for a free-
An example is the turkey and rice alter- For a 2-quart loaf, serving 12 form loaf; recommended-a thermome-
nate to pork in the master recipe. ter that can remain in the meat as it
2 cups minced onions
cooks
2 Tbs butter or oil
1 cup lightly pressed down crumbs
Browning the onions. Saute the onions
from homemade type fresh white
MEAT LOAF in the butter or oil 5 minutes or so,
bread
until tender and translucent; raise
2 pounds ground beef chuck
You can make a great meat loaf out of heat and saute a few minutes longer,
1 pound ground pork shoulder, or
raw meat, cooked meat, or a combi- until lightly browned. Scrape into the
fresh sausage meat, or ground
nation of raw and cooked, and you mixing bowl.
raw turkey plus 1 cup cooked rice
can make it out of beef alone, or 2 "large" eggs
pork, veal, turkey, lamb, or a combi- The mixture. Toss all the rest of the
½ cup beef bouillon
nation. Your main concern is that it 2/3 cup grated Cheddar cheese
ingredients except for the bay leaves
be carefully flavored, reasonably rather gently with the onions. Saute a
1 to 2 cloves of garlic, pureed,
moist, that it hold together for slic- spoonfu( and taste carefully-if you
optional
ing, and that it make wonderful eat- are to serve the meat loaf cold, ·exag-
Seasonings: 2 tsp salt, ½ tsp pepper,
ing hot or cold. gerate a bit on the seasoning. Either
2 tsp each thyme and paprika, 1
tsp each allspice and oregano
(co ntinued)
3 imported bay leaves, for the top
VARIATION fowl-or even fish. A certain amount

of raw meat-sausage meat, or raw
chicken or turkey, for instance-
added to the cooked meat gives mois-
FEASTING ON THE ture and also acts as a binder.
REMAINS
For a 6-cup loaf pan or baking dish,
Cooked meats may also make a mar- serving 8 to 10, start by sauteing 2 ½
velous meat loaf. Many of these mix- cups of minced onions until tender in
tures, such· as the following Meat 3 tablespoons of oil or butter; when
Free-form meat loaf
Loaf Maison, make fine fillings for tender, pour in 1 cup of wine and/or
onions, cabbage leaves, and squash, leftover meat sauce or stock, and boil
A Beef and Pork Meat Loaf (continued ) as well as for turkey and other fillable down until almost evaporated. Mean-
foods. See also the selection of stuff- while puree 3 cups of cooked meat,
form into a loaf shape on a buttered ings for poultry and meat beginning poultry, rabbit , etc., in a food pro-
jelly-roll pan, see illustration, or on page 184, any of which might cessor with 1 cup of cooked rice or
pack the meat into a buttered 8-cup well become all or part of a gorgeous pasta and 3 "large" eggs . Blend the
loaf pan and bang on the table to de- meat loaf. puree in a bowl with the cooked on-
flate air bubbles. Top with the bay ions, ½ to ½ cup of leftover braised
leaves. vegetables if you have them, ½
pound ( 1 cup) of sausage meat, ½
*Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared Meat Loaf Maison cup of grated Swiss cheese, 1 or 2
in advance; cover and refrigerate or large cloves of pureed garlic, salt and
freeze. Note: If you want to freeze a This is the handsome solution to the freshl y ground pepper to taste, and
meat loaf, it is best frozen raw; de- leftovers of a braise, a stew, or a ¼ teaspoon or so of thyme or mixed
frost overnight or longer in the re- roast, and it can be made of meat or herbs. Saute a spoonful and taste ana-
frigerator before baking. lytically for seasoning-overdoing a
little if the dish is to be served cold.
Baking-about 1 ½ hours at 350°F.
Preheat the oven and set the meat loaf Baking and serving. Follow directions
in the lower middle level. for the preceding meat loaf.
When is it done? It is done when the

juices run almost clear with a pale
pink tinge, and the meat is lightly
springy to the touch. A meat ther-
mometer should read 15 5°F-do not
remove the thermometer until the
meat rests before serving time, or the
juices will burst out.
Serving. Let cool for 30 minutes.

Pour off fat and juices. Transfer the
loaf to a board or platter. Serve hot
with salsa ( page 200), or tomato
sauce (page 358). Or let cool , then Meat L oaf Maison
wrap and refrigerate-the star of any

. .
picnic.
FRENCH PATES AND

TERRINES
The distinction between pate and ter-

rine has so blurred with time that
they both mean the same thing-a
winey spiced-up ground meat mix-
ture that is baked and served cold.
Terrine originally meant a comfort-
able earthenware baking dish, usually
loaf shaped, in which the pate was
baked and served. A pate en croute,
on the other hand, is the same mix-
ture baked in a handsome highly dec-
orated pastry crust. They are both
French variations on the American
meat loaf, as we chauvinists like to
point out.
Country Pate: Pate de Ingredients for a Country Pate

Campagne
Liver, onions, sausage, and chicken
¾ pound (1 ½ cups) raw chicken Assembling and baking. Pack into a
breasts well-buttered loaf pan, cover with
This is an especially easy pate to
½ pound (1 cup) pork or beef liver buttered wax paper, then with foil,
make-grind everything together,
1 cup lightly pressed down crumbs allowing only 1 inch of overhang.
pack neatly in a buttered loaf pan,
made from fresh homemade type Bake in a bain-marie (a pan of boil-
and it's ready for the oven. Make it
white bread ing water) in a 350°F oven as de-
more elaborate if you wish, since
1 "large" egg scribed for the preceding Meat Loaf
pates are built according to cook's 1/3 cup cream cheese or goat cheese Maison. It is done in 1 ¼ to 1 ½
mood-of-the-day. Layer strips of ham
1 medium clove of garlic, pureed hours at a meat thermometer reading
or chicken as you pack in the meat,
2 to 3 Tbs good brandy of l 62°F-when the meat is pressed,
for instance-a quarter pound would
1 Tbs salt the juices are pale yellow with just a
do. Or you might fold peeled pista-
¼ tsp each ground allspice and trace of rosy color.
chios into the mixture . Such touches
thyme
as these make it your very own.
¼ tsp ground imported bay leaf Cooling. When done , let cool for an
¼ tsp freshly ground pepper hour, then weight down wi th a twin
For a 6-cup baking dish
pan or a board and a 5-pound weight
213 cup minced onions cooked until The mixture. Puree all the ingredients (such as a canned good) . Wheri cool,
translucent in 2 Tbs butter together in a food processor; or put cover and refrigerate- let the pate
1 ¼ pounds (2½ cups) pork sausage them through the fine blade of a meat mellow for a day or two before
meat, your own (page 257) or grinder, then beat in a large mixing servrng.
store-bought bowl to blend. To check seasoning,
saute a spoonful in a small frying Serving. See directions at the end of
pan, let cool, and taste it analytically; the following Duck Pate.
correct as necessary, exaggerating the
flavors si nce pates are served cold.
Duck Pate Baked in

Its Own Skin
A duck pate baked in its own skin-

sounds rather exotic for the average
home cook. But when you find that
boning a duck is not much of a trick,
and you know that a pate is a dressed-
up meat loaf-why not give it a try?
For an 8 -cup terrine or loaf pan
A 5-pound roaster duckling,

including if possible its gizzard,
heart, and liver
Seasonings: s~t, freshly ground
pepper, allspice, and thyme
¼ cup Cognac or good brandy
½ cup minced onions sauteed in 1
Tbs butter
1 pound (2 cups) ground pork
shoulder
1 large clove of garlic, poreed
2 "large" eggs
½ cup peeled pistachio nuts, optional
3 imported bay leaves

A food processor; an oiled 8 -cup terrine
or loaf pan, and a larger pan to hold it;
an instant meat thermometer; a board
or twin baking pan and weight for
cooling
To bone the duck.

Duck Pate
First step-skin and flesh. You are
to use the duck skin to line the ter-
rine, and want to keep it intact except The wings. With the carcass re- The legs. From the skin side, chop
for the opening slit. Bone the duck as . moved, you have the skin with legs off the ball joints of the drumstick
described for turkey on page 159- and wings attached. From the skin ends. See illustration , step 1: from
slitting it down the back from neck to side, chop each wing off above the el- inside, scrape the meat off the second
tail, and cutting through the ball bow; from the flesh side scrape the joints and drumsticks and pull the
joints to separate the legs and wings meat from the remaining upper bone skin sleeves inside.
from the carcass as you scrape meat as you pull the skin sleeve inside.
from bone on each side.
Removing breast meat from skin. *Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared

Carefully pull and scrape the breast in advance; cover and refrigerate or
meat halves from the skin; cut it into freeze. If frozen, thaw in the refrig-
long strips and toss in a bowl with a erator before baking. Note that this
sprinkling of salt, pepper, allspice, is the best time to freeze, since a
thyme, and the Cognac or brandy. baked pate does not freeze well-it
has a watery texture when thawed.
The leg and wing meat. Remove as
much of the leg and wing meat as Baking-I½ to 2 hours at 350°F.
you safely can, and reserve for grind- Bake in a bain-marie (a pan of boil- .
I . Removing meat from duck skin
ing. Cut out and discard any easily ing water) to a meat thermometer
removable fat. reading of 160°F. Let cool for an
hour, then weight down with a twin
The filling ( or meat loaf mixture). In pan or a board, and a 5-pound
the food processor or meat grinder, weight (like canned goods). When
chop the duck leg and wing meat cold, cover and refrigerate for a day
with the duck gizzard ( peeled) and or two before serving, to allow the
heart, and the sauteed onions. Scrape pate to develop its full flavor.
into a large mixing bowl, and beat in
the ground pork, 2 teaspoons of salt, Serving. Set the terrine over heat for
½ teaspoon each of pepper and a few seconds to loosen the pate; pour
thyme, ¼ teaspoon of allspice, the out fat and juices, and unmold the
2. Pan lined with duck skin
pureed garlic, and the eggs. Saute a pate onto a platter. Scrape and wipe
spoonful and taste very carefully for off the surface. Decorate the top with
seasoning-it should seem oversalted parsley, pimiento strips, or whatever
and overspiced, since the seasoning seems appropriate. (Note: Before
will be muted when the pate is served decorating, you may wish to brush
cold. Beat in the liquid from the the surface with a coat or two of glis-
breast strips. tening aspic-½ cup of the de-
greased cooking juices dissolved with
Forming the pate. Arrange the duck 1 teaspoon of gelatin; aspic directions
skin flesh side up in the oiled terrine, are on page 16.)
step 2. Spread over it a third of the
filling, lay half the breast strips over
3. Final layer of duck strips and pistachios
the filling alternating with half the
duck liver (cut into strips), and a
double row of the optional pistachio
nuts.
Cover with half the remaining fill-

ing, the rest of the breast strips,
liver, and pistachios, step 3, then the
last of the filling. Bang the dish on
the table to flatten any air pockets.
Lay 3 bay leaves over the top and
fold the skin over, step 4. The pate is
4. Skin folded over
ready for baking after you have cov-
ered it with a sheet of buttered foil
and a lid of some sort.
Uncle Hans's City Scrapple

Pennsylvania Dutch Pork Loaf
Scrapple-slice it, saute it, and serve

with your breakfast eggs, or as part
of a family supper. Traditional farm
scrapple is made from pork scraps
and bones that are boiled up for sev-
eral hours with herbs and vegetables.
The meat is then scraped from the
bones and chopped, the broth is
strained and boiled up with corn-
meal, then the two are combined and
baked into a loaf. Following is a
simple city version that is far easier
than the original, and every bit as
tasty-perhaps even tastier-than
scrapple from scraps.
For an 8 -cup loaf pan
2 pounds best-quality pork sausage

meat
1 ¼ cups store-bought boxed yellow
cornmeal
4½ cups well-flavored meat or
poultry stock
pepper, and sage
2 "large" eggs
For sauteing: more cornmeal, and
sausage fat or butter

A large frying pan for the sausage; a 3-
quart saucepan for the cornmeal and a
larger pan with simmering water to
hold it; an 8-cup loaf pan, well greased
The cornmeal. Place the cornmeal in
with pork fat or butter; greased alumi-
the saucepan and, by dribbles at first,
num foil
whisk in the stock. Bring to the sim-
mer, stirring, and simmer 5 minutes,
The sausage meat. Break up the sau-
or until a quite thick mush. Cover
sage meat and saute in a large frying
and set in the larger pan of simmer-
pan over moderate heat, breaking it
ing water; cook 40 minutes, stirring
up and stirring it occasionally until it
occasionally. Uncover, and stir over
has lost its pink color-about 1O
moderately high heat until very
minutes.
thick, and the mush holds its shape
Combining sausage and cornmeal
quite solidly in a spoon.
Combining sausage and cornmeal. SAUSAGES Correct seasoning. Cover and refrig-
Combine the two, blending thor- erate for a day to allow the flavorings
oughly (see illustration). Stirring Sausage links and patties are easy to to penetrate the pork.
over moderately low heat, season well make at home, and when you grind
with salt, pepper, and sage-exag- and season your own, you know ex- *Ahead-of-time note: Sausage meat
gerate a bit on the sage. Remove actly what you've got-good fresh will keep 2 days or so under refriger-
from heat, stirring to cool slightly; meat. ation; it will keep several weeks in
beat in the eggs one at a time. the freezer but the flavor will gradu-
ally deteriorate.
Molding and baking. Preheat the oven
to 3 5 0°F. Pack the scrapple mixture S) MASTER RECIPE
into the baking pan, banging on the
table to remove air pockets. Cover Pork Sausage Meat Sausage Cakes or Patties
with foil (greased side down), and ...
bake in the middle level for about an This is the all-purpose formula for The preceding 2 ½ pounds of sausage
hour, until the scrapple has swelled sausage cakes, sausage links, and any meat makes 16 breakfast-size cakes
up ½ inch or more. recipe calling for pork sausage meat. 2 ½ ounces each. For uniform size,
scoop out the meat with a 1/3 -cup dry
Cooling, storing, and unmolding. Let For 2 ½ pounds-about 5 cups measure. Dipping your hands first in
cool for an hour, cover, and weight 2½ pounds fresh pork shoulder butt cold water, scoop the sausage meat
down until cold; refrigerate until ( you want approximately 2 parts out of the cup and roll into a ball be-
well chilled. lean to 1 part fat, which the butt tween the palms of your hands, then
should give) flatten it into a cake and place on the
To serve. Scrape off surface fat. Set 1 Tbs salt tray. Saute or broil in the usual
the pan over heat to loosen the scrap- ¾ tsp mixed ground herbs and spices manner.
ple loaf; run a knife around the sides, (your own bottled mix, see
and unmold onto a board. Slice the Special Note, page 203; or *Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared
scrapple into crosswise pieces about allspice, thyme, imported bay leaf, for cooking a day in advance; cover
¾ inch thick. Dredge in cornmeal, paprika, and sage) and refrigerate. If you are not cook-
and saute in sausage fat or butter and ¼ tsp freshly ground pepper ing them at once, place between
oil to brown lightly on each side. sheets of wax paper and refrigerate.
Accompaniments. Serve either as a A meat grinder ( the food processor is
breakfast dish or as a main-course not recommended); a heavy-duty mixer
lunch or supper dish. You might ac- with flat blade is useful
company the scrapple with fried or
scrambled eggs, and broiled toma- The mixture. Trim gristly bits, etc.,
toes. Sauteed apple slices and coleslaw from the pork, and cut the meat into
or a salad are another idea, or the strips 1 inch across. Put first through
grated beets on page 293. For din- the coarse screen of the meat grinder,
ner, would a glass of light red wine then through the fine screen. Beat
go with scrapple? Cider or beer either in the heavy-duty mixing ma-
would perhaps be better. chine or a big mixing bowl, adding
the salt, herbs, spices, and pepper.
Saute a spoonful to cook through
completely and taste it very carefully.
State-of-the-art sausage stuffer
will last indefinitely as long as they

remain in the salt and under
refrigeration.
A sausage styjfer. Shown here is a

Electric meat grinder with sausage horn state-of-the-art hand sausage stuffer: S_ausage casings. Partially filled, left: empty casing,
the meat goes into the body of the nght
machine, the casing on the nozzle,
Making Link Sausages and the trigger moves the pusher store in the refrigerator, where it will
plate against the meat to push it grad- keep indefinitely. To prepare the cas-
You can use these sausages in so many ually into the casing. Also available is ing for sausages, select the amount
ways. For instance, see the sauerkraut the old-fashioned but efficient cast- you need, unwind the lengths, and
dinner, page 204. aluminum model-a long handle at- soak in a basin of cold water for an
tached to a metal plate that pushes the hour to soften-but not longer or
EQUIPMENT. Like so many things, sau- they will soften too much. Cut the
sausage meat through the body of the
sages are easy to make when you have casing into convenient lengths-4
machine and out into the casing at-
the right equipment. To find it, look in ~eet long for drama; a 2-foot length
tached to it. Another possibility is an
the yellow pages under either Sausages 1s p~obably wise if this is your first
electric meat grinder with sausage
or Butcher's Supplies. Here is what you sess10n.
horn~ which works fairly well.
need:
Then there is the pastry bag with Wash the sausage horn and insert its
A good meat grinder. small end into. one end of the casing.
metal tubes-inefficient and madden-
ing to use, but better than nothing. Push the large end of the tube against
Sausage casings . For Italian-style sau- the cold-water faucet and slowly run
No directions given here-just mud-
sages, bratwursts, and large breakfast water through the length of the cas-
dle through.
sausages you will want small hog casing to test for holes-if there are any,
ings, size 32-3 5mm; for small break- cut off the casing at that spot. Then,
Sausage horn or nozzle. Tapered metal
fast sausages about ½ inch in with the water running slowly, push
tube that holds the casing; the tube is
diameter, sheep casings. If your the length of the casing up onto the
fastened onto the small end of the
butcher cannot supply you with a few horn, leaving 4 inches dangling free.
machine.
lengths of fresh natural casings, you
will have to buy a whole hank from a Either attach the horn to the sausage
To prepare sausage casings. If you have
supplier-and a hank is enough for stuffer, or attach it to the meat
a whole hank, unwind it-quite a
1,125 pounds of sausages! However, grinder (fitted with large-holed
job-cut it into lengths of 8 feet or
natural sausage casings packed in salt screen and cutter knife).
so, and rewind each length; pack in
coarse salt in a screw-top jar and
Italian-Style Sweet Sausages Forming the links. Twist the filled cas- HOME-CURED BEEF
with Fennel ings into 5-inch lengths, and tie into AND PORK
links with extra casing or string, to
keep them in shape during cooking.
W
For 1 dozen 5-inch sausages, 1 ¼-inch
diameter hy make corned beef
To cook link sausages. A preliminary when you can buy it at
½ tsp ground fennel seeds steaming prevents home-made sau- any market? No serious reason except
½ tsp coarsely ground pepper sages from bursting later on, espe- for the pride of authorship; besides,
¼ tsp nutmeg or coriander cially when broiled or barbecued-a it's easy to do, and you know exactly
5 cups all-purpose sausage meat safe and sensible precaution. what's in it. The only requirements
(page 257)
1
are a big piece of beef-or pork,
/3 cup ice water, if needed
Preliminary steaming. The sausages since pork is done the same way-
10 feet or so small hog casings, will swell slightly as they cook, and plus a sturdy plastic bag, seasonings,
unsalted, soaked, and tested as to prevent them from bursting prick room in the refrigerator, and a chunk
previously described each in several places with a pin. Ar- of time . Corning, or the preserving
range in one layer in a frying pan of meat in salt, was the age-old
with ½ inch of water. Bring to the method of keeping food before the
The items previously listed
simmer, cover, and cook at the barest inventions of canning and freezing;
simmer for 3 to 4 minutes; pour out meat preserved this way has its own
The mixture. Blend the fennel, pep-
the water. They are now ready for very special flavor. By the way, don't
per, and nutmeg or coriander into the
barbecuing, broiling, or for a sauer- worry about the use of salt since it is
sausage meat. If you are using a sau-
kraut dinner. well soaked out before cooking.
sage stuffer, loosen the mixture by
small additions of ice water; however,
To brown in a frying pan. Film a
a mixture for the meat grinder
frying pan with oil, and brown the
should be fairly solid. Saute a spoon-
sausages very slowly, turning them
ful to check seasoning.
frequently. Pork sausages 1¼ inches
in diameter will take about 10 min-
Using the sausage stuffer. Pack the sau-
utes to cook through.
sage meat into the body of the ma-
chine. Attach the casing-filled horn to
the nozzle. Force an inch or so of
sausage out of the nozzle into the cas- VARIATIONS
ing. Tie a knot in the casing to hold
the meat. Gently but firmly force the You can make wonderful sausages out
meat into the casing and, if your of all manner of meats, poultry, and
mixture is just loose enough, the cas- fish. The master recipe for fish
ing will fill with sausage meat. mousse on page 124, for instance,
Squeeze excess sausage from the last makes perfect sausages. Fold in bits
4 inches of casing, and return the of the sauteed lobster meat on page
meat to the machine. Tie a knot in 106, and you are right in there with
the casing to enclose the open end. the 3-star chefs, especially if you ac-
company your fancy fish dogs with
Using the meat grinder. Follow the di- the splendid lobster sauce on page
rections that come with the machine. 106. Or substitute ground turkey for
fish, and you have turkey dogs.
p MASTER RECIPE
To Com Your Own Beef
Brisket is the traditional beef cut, but

it's not the only one. Boneless chuck,
such as the eye roast, which contains
the continuation of the rib eye, is an-
other choice. However, I really pre-
fer either the top or bottom round
because it slices up into neat chic
pieces.
TIMING: 2 weeks minimum for the cure

to take place.
For a 12-pound piece of beef
A fully trimmed boneless 10- to 12-

pound top or bottom round of beef
(or the eye round, boneless
chuck, or brisket)
The following seasonings mixed in a

bowl
11/3 cups coarse (Kosher) salt
1 Tbs cracked peppercorns (pound
whole corns to crack them)
2 tsp each allspice and thyme
1 tsp each: paprika, sage, and
ground or crumbled imported bay
leaf

A heavy-duty plastic bag roomy enough
to hold the meat comfortably; a pan to
hold it; a pan and weight to cover the Corned beef and vegetables
meat
and set it in a pan or bowl. Place in
Salting and spicing the meat. Place the
the refrigerator, where the tempera-
meat in the plastic bag and rub the
ture should remain between 3 7 °F and
seasonings all over it, see illustration.
3 8°F. For the first 2 days of the cure,
Press as much air as possible out of
keep it covered with the second pan
the bag, then tie it securely closed
and weight.
Rubbing seasonings into meat

VARIATION the meats indicated-use only beef,

or only pork, but here is the grand
To Corn Pork scheme.
Use exactly the same system to corn PROCEDURE. Various items are added
fresh pork-the boneless shoulder is to the kettle at different times according
especially recommended here since to how long ea~h takes to cook, and are
the leg and loin tend to be dry when so listed with their directions in the rec-
cooked in a boiled dinner. ipe. If one part is done before the rest,
remove it, adding it again to warm up
A reminder
before serving.
The cure. Within a few hours, red To Cook Corned Beef TIMING. Count on about 5 hours from
liquid will exude in the bag- the start to finish, but the kettle needs only
cure has begun. Once a day, without Corned beef goes beautifully as a occasional attention as you go about your
opening the bag, massage the meat substitute for fresh in the Smothered business elsewhere. When all is done,
with its juices and spices, and turn Beef Brisket recipe on page 249, the boiled dinner will happily wait for
the bag over. I put a sign on my re- where the meat is buried under a an hour or more.
frigerator to remind me. li1 2 weeks blanket of chopped tomatoes, onions,
the cure is done, and the special fla- garlic, and herbs, then baked with no For 12 to 16 servings
vor has been achieved. The beef will more ado, forming its own delicious Starting off with the beef-3 to 4 hours
now keep several months under re- juices. Corned beef and cabbage go of simmering
frigeration-but turn it every sev- wonderfully together, and the boiled
A boneless 4- -to 6-pound piece of
eral days just to be sure all is well. If dinner is an old standby.
corned beef, such as top round or
you've a large piece, you may want to chuck eye, de-salted ( or fresh
cook only part of it and leave the rest Following is an expanded boiled din-
beeD
in the cure. ner, including not only corned beef
2 each: medium celery ribs, carrots,
but pork, chicken, and sausage-the
and onions
De-salting-2 4 hours or longer. Be- perfect main course for an informal
1 pound beef-neck bones, plus some
fore cooking the beef, wash off the crowd.
veal bones if available
salt cure and soak the meat in a large A large herb bouquet: 8 parsley
bowl of cold water, changing the sprigs, 6 peppercorns, 4 whole
water 2 or 3 times. As the salt leaves cloves, 3 large cloves of garlic, 2
the flesh the meat softens and, when La Potee Normande
tsp thyme, 2 imported bay
thoroughly de-salted, it will feel al- A boiled pork, beef, chicken, and
sausage dinner leaves-tied in washed
most like fresh beef- cut off a snip- cheesecloth
pet and taste it to be sure. D e-salting Cold water to cover ingredients
A sumptuous dinner for a dozen
may take 2 to 3 days if the meat has 2 Tbs salt, or to taste
guests, where a variety of meats all
cured a number of weeks.
cook together with aromatic liquid in
a big kettle. This is a favorite of my
*Ahead-of-time note: As soon as the White butcher's twine; a 10- to 12-
French colleague Simca, born in
beef is de-salted, it is just as perish- quart kettle; several yards of cheesecloth
Normandy, where the dish origi-
able as fresh meat-keep it refriger-
nated, who often serves it for Christ-
ated and cook it soon. (continued)
mas Eve, after the midnight mass.
Of course you don't have to add all
its string to the kettle handle. Bring Finishing the po tee. The meats and
the kettle rapidly back to the simmer, chicken are done when a fork pierces
skimming as necessary. the flesh easily. Remove any that are
done before the rest, and return them
Adding the pork ( or veal)-2 ½ to 3 to the kettle at the end.
hours.
*Ahead-of-time note: The potee will
A fully trimmed boneless 4-pound
stay warm or may be kept warm (at
shoulder of pork (fresh or
well below the simmer) for a good
corned), or boneless veal shoulder
hour. Note: Never cover a warm dish
Tying the beef I
airtight-you risk spoilage: always
Tie the meat to keep it in shape, as
cover loosely to allow air circulation.
La Potee Normande (continued) directed for the beef, leaving a length
of string for the kettle handle. Fol-
Serving. Drain the meats, discard
Tie the beef with loops of string lowing the chicken, add the pork or
trussing strings, carve into serving
around its circumference as shown. veal, also tying its string to the
portions, and arrange them either on
Attach an 18-inch length of string to ,handle. Rapidly bring the kettle back
separate platters, or grouped to-
it, place the beef in the kettle, and tie to the simmer, skimming as
gether. Arrange the vegetables
the end of the string to the handle of necessary.
around the meats. Strain and de-
the kettle-for easy removal later. grease the cooking stock, basting the
Add the vegetables, bones, herb bou- The vegetables and sausage, and com-
meat and vegetables with generous
quet, and enough water to cover the pleting the cooking
spoonfuls; pour additional stock into
ingredients by 6 inches. Bring to the 8 to 12 medium carrots and turnips, a large gravy bowl.
simmer, skim off scum for several peeled and quartered
minutes, salt lightly, and prepare the 24 to 32 small white onions 1 inch in Suggested accompaniments. Boiled rice
rest of the ingredients as follows. diameter, peeled and root ends or potatoes and/or French bread. You
pierced may want to include steamed cabbage
Adding a stuffed stewing hen-2 ½ to 3 12 to 14 leeks, cut 6 to 8 inches long, wedges (page 288). Besides the cook-
hours. See list of stuffings on page green part split lengthwise, ing broth, additional suggestions are
184-the cornbread and sage would thoroughly washed fresh tomato sauce ( page 3 5 8),
be good here, or the ham and bread 1 or 2 whole Polish sausages, or horseradish sauce (page 220), plus
crumb. (Note: Stewing chickens are individual sweet Italian sausages capers, mustard, coarse salt, and sour
not always available-substitute a pickles. A light red Bordeaux or
cut-up roaster; tie the pieces in Adding the vegetables-] hour of sim- merlot wine would go nicely here.
cheesecloth and add the bundle along mering. Prepare the vegetables and tie
with the vegetables, later.) each group in washed cheesecloth;
add the bundles to the kettle 1 hour
Stuffing the chicken. Shortly before before the end of the estimated sim-
cooking it, stuff and truss the chicken mering time. (Include also the cut-up
( page 162), and tie a long string chicken, if you are using it.)
to it.
The sausage-½ hour of simmering.
The chicken into the pot. After the beef Prick the sausage or sausages in sev-
has simmered for an hour, add the eral places with a pin. If you are
chicken to the kettle, tying the end of using Italian sausages, tie them in
washed cheesecloth. Add the sausage
or sausages ½ hour before the esti-
mated end.
FEASTING ON THE 1 to 2 Tbs light olive oil The potatoes. Meanwhile, peel and
REMAINS dice the potatoes-you should have
1 cup diced onions
about 2 cups. Drop them into a pan
2 or more Tbs butter
of lightly salted boiling water and
K itchen treasures, that's what

the remains can be-we all
hope-particularly such splendid of-
2 Tbs flour
1 ½ cups hot liquid (milk, meat or
poultry stock, and/or gravy or
cream)
simmer 5 minutes or so, until barely
tender. Drain.
ferings as those of a roast turkey, a Assembling. Fold the potatoes into the
2 or 3 "boiling" potatoes
ham, braised beef, roast lamb. We hash base along with the meat and its
Optional: ¾ cup either diced cooked
have a number on hand elsewhere in marinade, the optional vegetables
vegetables (such as peas, carrots,
the ham, lamb, and beef sections. and/or stuffing, and the remaining
broccoli, turnips), or meat or
Here are four more general-purpose liquid.
poultry stuffing, or a mixture
ideas, and you'll find the whole roster
% cup lightly pressed down, grated
in the index listed under "Feasting." Cooking the hash-35 to 40 minutes in
cheese, such as Swiss, Cheddar,
all. Cover the pan and simmer rather
Monterey Jack, or mozzarella
slowly for 10 to 15 minutes, until the
hash begins to crust on the bottom.
Old-Fashioned Hash Optional accompaniments Uncover, stir the crust into the body
For leftover ham, lamb, beef, and 4 poached eggs (page 64) of the hash, and if the mixture seems
poultry Parsley sprigs dry, pour in a little extra liquid.
1 cup fresh tomato sauce (page 358) Taste and correct seasoning, adding
This is real hash, with a crusty out- more herbs if you feel them neces-
side and tender savory inside. Won- SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: sary. Cover and let crust on the bot-
derful on its own, it's even better A food processor is useful; a heavy 10- tom again for 10 to 15 minutes or so.
topped with a poached egg and side inch frying pan ( no-stick recom-
order of fresh tomato sauce. mended); a cover of some so-r t for the *Ahead-of-time note: May be com-
pan pleted somewhat ahead to this point;
MANUFACTURING NOTE. The secret of set aside uncovered, at room
a crusty hash is time-it needs slow The meat or poultry. Cut the meat into temperature.
cooking so that it will brown nicely on ¼-inch dice-if using a food proces-
the bottom. sor, do only 1 cup at a time with on- Finishing the hash. Stir up again,
off pulses. Toss in a bowl with a blend in the cheese and parsley, cook
For a 10-inch pan, serving 4 sprinkling of salt and pepper and 5 to 10 minutes more, uncovered this
1½ to 2 cups boneless and skinless such of the optional marinade ingre- final time, until the bottom is nicely
cooked meat or poultry dients as seem appropriate-lemon browned and well crusted.
Salt and freshly ground pepper juice and tarragon with turkey or
chicken, for instance; wine and Ital- Serving. Either flip the hash over in
Optional marinade ian seasoning for beef. the pan and slide onto a warm serv-
1 or more Tbs freshly squeezed ing platter, or unmold it onto the
lemon juice, white wine, Port, or The hash base. Saute the onions slowly platter. Decorate, if you wish, with
Madeira in the frying pan with the butter un- poached eggs and parsley, and sur-
Minced fresh herbs, such as thyme til tender; raise heat slightly and round with the tomato sauce.
and tarragon, or Italian herb brown lightly-about 10 minutes.
mixture Blend in the flour; cook, stirring, for
3 minutes. Remove from heat, blend
in 1 cup of the hot liquid; simmer,
stirring, for 2 minutes. Season to
taste with salt and pepper.
VARIATION
carefully-they are fragile-cover
the pan, and cook 5 minutes more on
Hashed Brown Turnip Cakes the other side.
with Ham and Eggs
*Ahead-of-time note: If you are not
The glories of the leftover ham and quite ready to serve, set the pan over
the turnip are never more subtly dis- very low heat, with the cover slightly
played than in this crepelike creation askew.
where turnips are grated and com-
bined with grated potatoes, cream, Serving. Reheat the ham and the
and eggs. Baby cubes of the ham are eggs. Serve the cake~ on hot plates,
scattered over each crustily sauteed each cake garnished with a spoonful
cake, which is then topped with a of diced ham, topped with a poached
poached egg. Serve them to a happy egg, and a pinch of parsley. Spoon a
few for breakfast, brunch, lunch, or dollop of tomato sauce or ketchup on
supper. the side.
For 4 turnip cakes

Serving of turnip cake with poached egg
The garnish
1 1/3 cups diced cooked ham Chinese Manicotti
pan with the butter, just to brown Giant pasta tubes stuffed with leftover
2 Tbs butter
meat or poultry, baked in a Chinese
· Seasonings: salt, freshly ground very lightly; set aside. Poach the eggs sauce
pepper, sage, thyme, and 1 tsp or and set in cold water; just before
so chutney or Hoisin sauce serving, place them in a pan of Those fat tubes of pasta-mani-
4 poached eggs (page 64) lightly salted simmering water for 1 cotti-were made to be stuffed, and
minute to reheat. they are so much easier to fill with
The turnip cakes
delectable mixtures than are sausage
2 large white turnips The turnip cakes. casings, crepes, or green peppers.
1 "baking" potato the size of one
Boil the manicotti until limp, and
turnip The mixture. Shortly before saute- push into them whatever delicious
¼ cup sour cream ing them, grate the turnips and po- mixture comes to mind-or is in the
1 "large" egg tato, then by handfuls twist in the stuffing list on page 184, and bake
Salt and freshly ground pepper corner of a stout clean towel to extract them in a pungent sauce. The follow-
2 or more Tbs clarified butter (page as much juice as you can-you ing free-form internationally mixed
139), or fresh peanut oil should have about 3 cups after recipe makes an especially fine Italo-
1 Tbs minced fresh parsley squeezing. At once, to prevent dis- Sino conversation piece, and un-
½ cup fresh tomato sauce (page
coloration, blend them in a mixing usually good eating.
358), or hot ketchup bowl with the cream and egg. Season
to taste. For 4 to 6 servings
A 6- to 7-inch frying pan, for the ham; Sauteing the cakes. Film the large For the stuffing
a food processor with grating disk is pan with 1/1 6 inch of butter or oil, 213 cup sliced onions
useful; a large spatula and big mixing and set over moderately high heat. 2 Tbs butter
fork; a 10-inch frying pan, for the tur- With the spatula and mixing fork, 8 ounces (1 cup) leftover ground
nip cakes ( no-stick recommended); a rapidly form 4 cakes about 3/s inch cooked meat or poultry, or
cover of some sort for the pan thick in the hot pan. Lower heat to sausage meat
moderate, cover the pan, and cook 3 Tbs chopped scallions
The ham and the poached eggs. Saute slowly for about 5 minutes, or until 8 ounces (1 cup) raw peeled shrimp,
the ham briefly in the small frying lightly browned on the bottom. Turn or chicken breast
½ cup lightly pressed down crumbs

from fresh white homemade type
bread
1 "large" egg
2 Tbs cornstarch mixed in 2 Tbs
sherry and 1 ½ Tbs soy sauce
½ Tbs grated fresh ginger
Seasonings: salt and freshly ground
pepper
3. Pouring on the sauce
12 large manicotti, packed in plastic
forms is of flexible vinyl, 12 to 14 inches
long. Fill the pastry bag with the
For the baking sauce
stuffing and insert it into the mani-
¼ cup dried mushrooms (Chinese or cotti, arranging each piece in the
other) oiled dish as you do so, step 2.
1 large clove of garlic, finely minced
2 Tbs peanut oil Serving of Chinese Manicotti
The baking sauce. Wash the mush-
1 Tbs Chinese fermented black beans rooms; discard tough stems. Chop
2/3 cup chicken broth
the mushrooms, and soak 5 minutes
1 tsp dark sesame oil in ½ cup of very hot water. Using
1 tsp soy sauce the same frying pan, warm the garlic
2 tsp cornstarch dissolved in ½ cup briefly in the oil, then add the mush-
dry white French vermouth rooms and their soaking liquid, plus
% cup grated Swiss cheese all the remaining ingredients except
the cheese. Simmer 3 minutes.
A 10-inch frying pan; a food processor; *Ahead-of-time note: The manicotti
an oiled 9- by 12-inch baking dish; a
I. Boiling the manicotti shells
may be filled in advance, covered
pastry bag with %-inch tube opening with oiled foil, and refrigerated, and
the sauce completed.
The stuffing. Saute the onions slowly
in the frying pan with the butter un- Baking-about 40 minutes at 375°F.
til tender, then puree with the rest of Set the covered manicotti dish in the
the stuffing ingredients in the food oven to warm through-5 minutes
processor. Saute a spoonful; taste and or so. Discard the foil, and pour the
correct seasoning. sauce over the manicotti, step 3.
Spread on half the cheese. Bake 20
The manicotti. Manicotti are packed minutes, until bubbling, spread on
in plastic forms to keep them safe and the rest of the cheese and bake 2 0
unbroken. Drop them carefully into 2. Filling boiled manicotti shells minutes more to brown lightly.
a pan of boiling salted water (see il-
lustration, step 1). Boil slowly 8 to won't split before stuffing. Drain; Serving. Serve the manicotti as a first
10 minutes, until softened but still at place on an oiled tray. course, or as a main-course luncheon
the slightly underdone al dente or supper dish with a lightly dressed
stage~they must hold their shape for Filling the manicotti. Stuffing wet, tossed salad. A white wine would go
stuffing and baking. Handle them slippery pasta tubes is difficult with- here, a sauvignon blanc or Macon.
with great care after boiling, so they out a pastry bag. The one shown here
Green Vegetables, Root Vegetables,
Winter and Summer Vegetables
Boil-Steamed Vegetables
Grated, Braised, and Stuffed

Vegetables
Vegetable Dishes That Make a Meal
New Ideas for Potatoes,

Rice, Beans, and L4~1r1tils;
Wheat Berries, Hominy, and Grits
From artichokes and asparagus to has dawned that fresh vegetables are that the versatile onion is featured in
cabbage and zucchini, there is more not only good for you, they are won- three different areas; first among the
interest in fresh vegetables now than derfully good to eat-when lovingly braised vegetables, then in stuffed
ever before. Not only are more vari- prepared. vegetables, and lastly in Other Vege-
eties available in our supermarkets, This chapter follows the general tables, a miscellaneous catchall for
but specialty growers and specialty system of grouping cook-alikes, as methods that refuse to be catalogued.
stores are catering to America's in- far as logic allows. Thus all stuffed A full listing of all the recipes
creasing demand for superior quality vegetables are together in one section, for each vegetable appears under its
and freshness. In addition, the truth braised vegetables together in an- own name in the index.
ot er, gra:ed in another, and so
forth. This means, as an example,
THE BIG FIVE-MOSTLY

GREEN for Blanching and
Steaming
Broccoli and cauliflower,

Brussels sprouts, green
beans, and spinach
BROCCOLI AND
CAULIFLOWER
Broccoli and cauliflower, those culi-

nary cousins, are blissfully in season
throughout the year, and thank
heaven for broccoli. Its welcome
green color and its distinctive but not
obtrusive taste make it a perfect com-
Broccoli and cauliflower
panion to almost any first- or main-
course dish, from scrambled eggs to
and fresh-smelling heads with dark C aulifi ower
braised beef and onions. Freshly
green or purple florets that are
cooked broccoli, too, is another vege-
tightly closed. Old broccoli will have Buying and storing. Choose firm,
table that is perfect for dieters, since
some yellowing in the floret area, fresh-looking and fresh-smelling
it can suffice with nothing more than
some open buds, and a stale old- heads, all white with no brown or
a little seasoning and a wedge of
cabbage odor. To store, wrap the discolored patches. The floret clus-
lemon. However, it carries on very
heads loosely in slightly dampened ters should be closely packed together;
well with white butter sauces, hollan- the clusters of old or stale cauliflower
paper towels and refrigerate in a
daise, and the like. begin to separate from each other. The
plastic bag.
freshest cauliflower heads still have
Broccoli cooks up infinitely faster, some crisp green leaves attached to the
Amounts to buy. One pound (or 2 me-
fresher, greener, and better in every base of the head.
dium heads) will serve 4 amply.
way when you cut it into florets, peel
the stems of the florets, and then cut
Preparation. Cut the floret from the Amount to buy. A 7-inch, 2-pound, or
and peel the main stem too. Cauli-
central stalk, leaving the stem 2 average medium head serves 4 to 6.
flower, as well, is infinitely more ten-
inches long. Starting at the butt end
der and delicious when peeled. The Preparation. Cut the central stem out
of each, rapidly lift off the peel in
extra minutes thus spent, as is so of the cauliflower, going an inch or so
strips with a small sharp knife, going
often the case, are the hallmarks of
almost up to the flower buds all up into the floret area. Peel the stem,
fine and careful cooking, la cuisine
around . Cut off the tough butt ends going deep enough to reveal the ten-
soignee-and that is highest praise.
of the central stalks, peel the stalks der inside flesh; halve or quarter; and
down to the tender pale inside flesh; cut into diagonal pieces. Snap off the
Broccoli
cut the stalks in half lengthwise, then florets and peel their stems, as for
into diagonal pieces. broccoli. Make a 1-inch slit through
Buying and storing. Choose clean, the stems of any fat pieces, for faster
firm, smooth-stemmed, crisp-feeling cooking.
JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK VEGETABLES 269
SPECIAL NOTE recipe for blanching broccoli is a per-

fect example, as is that for green
Blanching beans.
To blanch means to drop food into

boiling water either to boil it briefly
so that it wilts or softens, as for boil- Nutritional and dietary note.
ing a whole head of cabbage, not un- "But aren't you losing all the
til it is cooked, but only until the vitamins and nutrients, boiling them
Peeling broccoli stem leaves come loose so that you can re- in that much water?" I have eaten,
move them. Or to drop a whole to- and even cooked, green vegetables
mato into boiling water for 10 prepared by the rules of nervous
seconds so that its skin loosens for nutritional nellies, in which sprouts
easy peeling. Or to blanch salt pork or green beans were boiled in a small
or bacon for 10 minutes to remove its covered pan-they have been
salty or smoky flavor. On the other invariably unappetizing, inedible,
hand, you can blanch long enough to and a dull gray-green. One reason, I
cook foods, such as green vegetables am sure, that many people hate
like green beans, spinach, or broc- vegetables is because they are cooked
coli, when you boil them until they like medicine. But fresh vegetables
Peeling central stem are just cooked through. are glorious food! And any fresh
broccoli or Brussels sprout that looks
In the case of green vegetables, you as green and tastes as fresh as it does
use a very large quantity of rapidly when cooked as described here can
boiling water so that it will come only be filled with nature's goodness.
back to the boil as rapidly as possible They are so good, in fact, that you
after the vegetables go in, thus re- can eat them as is, with perhaps only
taining their bright green color. The a sprinkling of salt and pepper.
Peeling cauliflower stem

while steaming is fine for cauliflower, Wash the peeled broccoli rapidly
it is risky for broccoli unless you are under cold water, drain, and plunge
*Ahead-of-time note: Both broccoli precooking and will finish it off later, it into the boiling water. Boil slowly,
and cauliflower may be prepared even such as in the brief saute in olive oil uncovered, for 2 to 4 minutes, until
a day in advance; wrap in a slightly and garlic described farther on. just cooked through but with the
dampened towel and refrigerate in a slightest crunch. Taste a piece to be
plastic bag. For 4 servings sure. Remove at once.
1 pound broccoli (2 medium heads),

*Ahead-of-time note: Peeled broccoli
iii
Ill MASTER RECIPE
prepared as previously described
is so quick to cook, I see no reason
A large kettle of lightly salted,
for doing it in advance if it is to be
rapidly boiling water
Blanched Broccoli simply served. However, if it must
be done in advance, refresh the broc-
W hen you cover a green vegetable coli in cold water as for the green
A large perforated scoop or Chinese
while it's cooking, you r isk losing its w ire skimmer, or a w ire salad basket beans on page 2 7 6.
beautiful g reen color. Therefore,
SERVING SUGGESTIONS FOR BROCCOLI VARIATION

AND CAULIFLOWER
Cauliflower S auteed in Oil,

Buttered Broccoli or
Garlic, and Parsley
Cauliflower
Finish off steamed cauliflower florets
Season lightly with salt and pepper,
in exactly the same way as the
and spoon on melted butter. For cau-
preceding broccoli, but when trim-
liflower, a sprinkling of parsley is
ming and peeling, cut them a little
usually welcome.
smaller than usual. Sprinkle with
Steaming the cauliflower
fresh parsley before serving.
1•1~1•1
m MASTER RECIPE
Broccoli Bouquets
Steamed Cauliflower Broccoli-Sauced Broccoli
A burst of color, perhaps for Christ-
You may blanch cauliflower, just as mas broccoli. Decorate each serving Here is an elegant broccoli presenta-
you blanch broccoli, but since you do with a bow of red pimiento-canned tion, in which a handful of the flower
not have the color problem, it is red pimiento cut into strips. bud ends are cooked separately, and
quicker and easier to steam it, espe- folded into a lemon-butter sauce be-
cially when you have broken it into fore being spooned over the rest.
florets and peeled their stems. This would be a highly suitable ac-
Broccoli Sauteed in Olive Oil companiment to something rather
For 4 to 6 servings and Garlic special, like butter-poached chicken
A quick and easy accompaniment to breasts, a roast of veal, veal scallops,
1 head of cauliflower 7 inches steaks, chops, hamburgers, and broiled
chicken or fish or small roast birds. Although the
across, trimmed, stems peeled, as
main preliminaries may be completed
described at the beginning of this
Either blanch the broccoli until ahead, the final cooking and saucing
section
barely tender, as in the master recipe, are done at the last minute.
SPECIAL EQUI PMENT: A steaming bas- or steam it as-described for cauli-
ket set in a covered saucepan flower, but stop it while still under- For 6 servings
cooked or its bright green will turn About 2 pounds broccoli
Pour 1 inch of water in the saucepan, dull. Just before serving, film the The grated rind of ½ lemon
place the trimmed cauliflower in the frying pan with 1/16 inch of olive oil, 2 Tbs freshly squeezed lemon juice
basket, cover closely, and set over and set over moderately high heat. 2 Tbs chicken broth
high heat. W hen steaming, lower Finely mince and stir in 1 or 2 large Salt and freshly ground pepper
heat to moderate, and steam 3 to 5 cloves of garlic and saute a moment 5 to 6 Tbs unsalted butter
minutes, or until just cooked through just to soften but not to brown it. 2 to 3 Tbs clarified butter (page 139)
but with the slightest crunch. Eat a Toss in the broccoli, season lightly
piece to check. with salt and freshly ground pepper, SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
and toss, swirling the pan by its A 6-cup saucepan and whisk for the
*A head-of-time note: Since you have handle, to heat it through thoroughly sauce; a 6-inch no-stick frying pan for
no green color to worry about, cauli- and to finish the cooking. Toss with a the floret buds; a large kettle and
flower may be cooked in advance and dribble more oil, if you wish, and either a steaming basket or large perfo-
reheated. Remove the steaming bas- serve. rated scoop for the broccoli
ket and let the cauliflower cool before
covering and refrigerating it.
Preliminaries. Cut just the small buds. Arrange the hot broccoli on a VA RIATIO N
flower buds off one head of broccoli, hot serving dish, spoon the sauce
enough to give_you 1 cup or so. Set over, and serve. Broccoli or C aulifiower a la
aside. Cut and peel the remaining Polonaise
broccoli florets, leaving them 1½
inches long and, if you need more Push a hard-boiled egg through a
VARIATION
broccoli, also a portion of the stalks. coarse-meshed sieve, toss with a little
Have lightly salted water in the kettle salt and freshly ground pepper, then
Broccoli-Sauced C aulifiower toss with the browned crumbs just
at the full boil 6 to 8 minutes before
you expect to serve. before sprinkling over the vege-
Rather than the usual parsley to deco-
tables-add a handful of chopped
rate steamed cauliflower, anoint it
For the sauce. Boil the grated fresh parsley if it's cauliflower.
with a sprinkle of broccoli-flower
lemon rind, lemon juice, and chicken buds in lemon-butter sauce, as de-
broth in the 6-cup saucepan with ¼ scribed in the preceding recipe.
teaspoon of salt, a few grinds of pep-
per, and 1 tablespoon of butter until Hashed Broccoli
reduced to a syrupy 2 tablespoons.
Set aside. Cut the remaining butter When you need to cook broccoli in
Broccoli or Cauliflower with advance, or you want hashed green-
into tablespoon pieces and reserve on Browned Bread Crumbs
a plate. ery as a garnish or as a filling for
something like crepes or a rolled
This is an attractive way to serve
The broccoli buds. Shortly before souffie blanch the broccoli, then hash
broccoli or cauliflower when you
proceeding to the next step, heat the (chop it fin~ with a big knife) it; toss
want to make it more important, such
clarified butter in the 6-inch frying it in a frying pan with butter and sea-
as a vegetable first course, or a main-
pan, add the broccoli buds, and saute sonings just before serving. You may
course luncheon dish to go with
over moderate heat a minute or two, also substitute Brussels sprouts for
something like poached or baked
until just tender; set aside. (Clarified broccoli in the two following
eggs.
butter coats them to prevent discolor- variations.
ation when added to the sauce later.) Before cooking the broccoli, melt 2
to 3 tablespoons of butter in a 10-
Cooking and serving. Shortly before inch frying pan and when foaming VAR IATIO NS
serving, blanch the main part of the stir in ¾ cup of fresh crumbs. Saute
brocc~li as described in the master over moderate heat, tossing and turn- Broccoli Hashed in Cream
recipe. Meanwhile set the sauce base ing, for 2 to 3 minutes,. until the
over moderately high heat and, when crumbs are lightly browned. Toss This goes nicely with broiled chicken
it comes to the boil, start whisking in with salt and freshly ground pepper or fish, as well as with hamburgers
the butter piece by piece, adding a to taste and set aside; reheat briefly and steaks. After tossing the broccoli
new piece as each previous one is al- just before serving. in a little butter, and seasoning it,
most absorbed. Remove from heat as fold in ½ cup or so of heavy cream.
soon as the last of the butter has gone When the broccoli or cauliflower is Heat through to bubbling, correct
in and fold in the reserved broccoli done, arrange it on hot plates or a seasoning, and serve.
'
platter, season lightly with salt, ?ep-
per, drops of lemon juice, and, 1f you
wish, a little melted butter. Strew on
the browned crumbs, and serve.
SPECIAL NOTE and flour foam together for 2 minutes rich sauce, use half-and-half or whisk
without coloring more than a buttery several tablespoons of butter into the
THE CLASSIC WHITE yellow. Remove from heat. finished sauce.
SAUCES: BECHAMEL
AND VELOUTE Adding the milk . When the bubbling First aid for a lumpy sauce. Push it
stops, in a few seconds, pour in all through a fine-meshed sieve, then
These are the old standbys of home but 1/2 cup of the hot milk at once, whirl it in an electric blender, and fi-
cooking, and you will use them whisking vigorously to blend thor- nally whisk it over heat until it sim-
countless times in one guise or an- oughly. Then whisk rather slowly mers a moment.
other-for baked vegetables, for egg over moderately high heat, reaching
and fish dishes, in cream soups, and all over the bottom and sides of the
so forth. Flour-based sauces have a pan, until the sauce comes to the sim- VARIATIO N
bad reputation because they are too mer; simmer 2 to 3 minutes, stirring
often carelessly put together, but with a wooden spoon and thinning Veloute Sauce
there is no excuse for grainy floury- out the sauce as necessary with drib- For vegetables, fish, and white meats
tasting sauces when they are so very bles of the milk. The sauce should be
easy and quick to make. The essen- thick enough to coat a spoon nicely. This is exactly the same as white
tial, really, is the initial cooking to- Whisk in the salt and pepper, tasting sauce except that, rather than milk
gether of the thickening element: the very carefully and adding more as alone, you use vegetable, fish, or
flour-butter paste-the white roux. needed. meat juices or stock, plus milk and/or
cream if called for. A detailed recipe
*Ahead-of-time note: To prevent a is on page 8.
skin from forming over the surface
White Sauce-Cream of the sauce, ( 1) whisk it every few
Sauce-Bechamel Sauce minutes until it has cooled, or (2)
film the surface with milk-spread a Cheese Sauce: Mornay
For 2 cups of medium-thick sauce tablespoon or so of it over the surface Sauce
of the sauce with the back of a
2½ Tbs butter
kitchen spoon-or (3) press a sheet Make either a white or a veloute
3½ Tbs flour
of plastic wrap right down onto the sauce, and let it cool several minutes
2 cups hot milk
surface. The sauce will keep 2 to 3 before whisking in grated cheese.
½ tsp salt and several grinds of
days under refrigeration or may be Proportions are usually ¼ cup of
white pepper
frozen. cheese per cup of sauce, and the
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: cheese is usually Swiss, although you
A heavy-bottomed 2 ½-quart stainless For a thicker or thinner sauce. may use any kind you wish. Usually,
saucepan for the sauce; a wooden spat- too, a speck of nutmeg is included.
ula or spoon; a small saucepan for the Thin sauce, such as for cream
milk; a wire whisk soups: 1 Tbs flour and¾ Tbs butter First aid for stringy cheese sauce.
per cup of milk. When cheese is added to a very hot
The white roux. Melt the butter in the sauce the sauce can become stringy-
2 ½-quart saucepan, then blend in the Thick sauce, such as for cheese Swiss cheese is often the culprit here.
flour with a wooden spoon to make a souffies: 2 Tbs flour and 1½ Tbs but- To remedy, bring it to the simmer
smooth somewhat loose paste. Stir ter per cup of milk. whisking in drops of lemon juice·or
over moderate heat until the butter dry white wine-a tip from our late
For a lighter or a richer sauce, use great American culinary authority
skim milk for the former, or, for a James Beard-and it usually works.
Hashed Broccoli Mornay sauce over the cauliflower to mask it

Gratineed in cheese sauce completely. Spread on 2 to 3 table-
spoons of grated cheese.
This is a useful dish when you have a
plain roast or saute and need a some- Baking. Fifteen to 20 minutes before
what substantial but not starchy vege- serving, bake in the upper third level
table to go with it. of a preheated 42 5°F oven just until
hot through and the cheese topping
Prepare the hashed broccoli and fold has browned lightly.
into it 1 ½ cups of cheese sauce, see
Piercing root end of a sprout
the Special Note. Turn the broccoli
into a buttered baking dish, spread VARIATION
on 2 more tablespoons of grated BRUSSELS SPROUTS
cheese. Twenty minutes before serv- Gratin of C aulifiower and
ing, bake in the upper third level of Fresh Brussels sprouts are with us in
Spinach, Mornay
a preheated 425°F oven until the con- abundance from September through
tents are bubbling and the cheese top- February. They begin to dwindle off
Here is a dish for vegetable lovers:
ping has browned lightly. in March, and are practically nonex-
you could well serve it as the main
istent from April through August.
course for a luncheon, or as the
Thus one of our great winter vege-
single vegetable to go with a roast or
tables is also a bright and hearty ac-
broiled fish.
Cauliflower au Gratin companiment to winter meals-
turkey, pork, and roast and braised
Preliminaries. Prepare the ingredients
Even if the doleful dishes of steam- meats of all kinds.
for the preceding gratin. Meanwhile,
table institutional food have discour-
in a 10-inch no-stick frying pan,
aged you from this one, it is an excel- Buying. Choose Brussels sprouts
saute 2 tablespoons of minced shallots
lent preparation as well as a useful that are firm to the squeeze-and do
or scallions in 2 tablespoons of butter
one when you need an ahead-of-time squeeze them to be sure the heads are
for a moment, then add 2 cups of
vegetable that can take the place of hard. If they are soft and the leaves
blanched chopped fresh spinach
potatoes. The only secrets are: don't are not tightly bunched, they wi ll
( page 27 8), and saute several min-
overcook and don't let it sit around cook into a disappointing mush.
utes to evaporate excess moisture.
on a steam table! Yellowing of the leaves indicates stale
Cover and cook slowly several min-
old sprouts: their color should be a
utes more until tender. Season care-
Assembling. For 4 to 6 people, lightly fresh bright green.
fully to taste with salt, freshly ground
butter a 2-quart baking dish 2 inches
pepper, and nutmeg, and fold in 3
deep, and spoon in a thin layer of Preparation. Trim off the stems
tablespoons of the cheese sauce.
cheese sauce (see Special Note). Ar- close to the heads without detaching
range the steamed cauliflower florets, the leaves; pull off any loose or wilted
Assembling and baking. Spread the
heads up, over the sauce. Season with leaves. For even cooking, pierce a
spinach in the bottom of the buttered
a sprinkle of salt and freshly ground cross 3/s inch deep in the stem ends.
baking dish, and then continue with
pepper, and a dusting of grated Swiss Wash and drain them before
the steamed cauliflower and the sauce
cheese .. Spoon 1 ½ to 2 cups of cheese cooking.
as described in the preceding recipe.
*Ahead-of-time note: If you are not to
cook the Brussels sprouts shortly,
wrap them in slightly dampened pa-
per towels and refrigerate in a plastic
bag.
iii
111 MASTER RECIPE For immediate serving-Buttered
Brussels Sprouts. Turn them out onto
Blanched Brussels Sprouts a hot serving dish. Season lightly
with salt and freshly ground pepper,
Like all green vegetables, Brussels and fold them in melted butter.
sprouts remain fresher and greener if
blanched in a large open kettle of For later serving. Plunge the vege-
rapidly boiling water. tables into a large basin of cold water
with a tray or two of ice cubes, to
For 4 to 6 servings stop the cooking and set the green
Brussels Sprouts with Chestnuts
1 to 1½ pounds or quarts Brussels color and texture. Drain when
sprouts, prepared as described at cold-in 2 to 3 minutes. Finish them
the beginning of this section off later in one of the ways following, B russets Sprouts with
6 quarts or more rapidly boiling which are useful indeed when you Chestnuts
water must prepare things in advance, or
3 Tbs salt ( 1 ½ tsp per quart of have a crowd of people to serve. The meaty, rather muted taste of
water) braised chestnuts needs the kind of
hearty perking-up contrast of Brus-
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: sels sprouts, and this dish calls out
VARIATIONS
An 8-quart kettle or pan with cover; a for roast turkey, goose, or suckling
wire salad basket to hold and remove Brussels Sprouts in Brown pig. Roll the hot blanched Brussels
the .vegetables, or a large perforated sprouts in butter or brown them
Butter
scoop or Chinese wire skimmer-for lightly in butter as in the preceding
easy removal recipe, then combine them with the
Very lightly browned buttery Brus-
sels sprouts have a wonderfully nut- braised chestnuts on page 3 11.
Plunge the sprouts into the rapidly
brown taste, and a quite new charac-
boiling water, cover the pan only just
ter. These go well with steaks, chops,
until the water comes back to the
broiled chicken or fish, or with
boil, then boil slowly uncovered. In Brussels Sprouts Baked
scrambled or fried eggs.
4 minutes begin testing: dip out a with Cheese
Brussels sprout and pierce it with a
Halve or quarter the blanched Brus-
small sharp-pointed knife-it is done This one you can make as rich or as
sels sprouts lengthwise. Shortly be-
when the knife goes in fairly easily. lean as you wish, with more or less
fore serving, set a 10-inch no-stick
Cut one open and eat it, to be sure: it butter and more or less cheese-
frying pan over moderately high
should just be cooked through but again, these go with simple broiled
heat, add 3 tablespoons of butter,
still have a slight crunch. Drain or sauteed meats, fish, or chicken.
and, when bubbling, add the sprouts.
immediately.
Season lightly with salt and pepper,
Assembling. Quarter the blanched
and toss, swirling the pan by its
sprouts lengthwise and, in a 1½-
handle, for several minutes while the
quart baking dish 1 ½ inches deep,
sprouts heat through and begin to
toss with 2 to 3 tablespoons of melted
brown very lightly. Serve as soon as
possible.
JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK VEGETABLES 27 5
butter and a sprinkling of salt and FRESH GREEN BEANS

freshly ground pepper. Then toss
with ½ cup of finely grated Swiss "Green beans," wrote Escoffier in his
cheese. Spread 2 to 3 tablespoons of introduction to haricots verts in the
cheese over the top and drizzle over Guide C ulinaire, "are one of the most
another spoonful of melted butter. exquisite of vegetables, but they must
be prepared with greatest care. They
Baking-about 20 minutes at 425°F. are best when a little firm to the
Set uncovered in the upper third tooth, but not with exaggeration."
level of the preheated oven. Bake just The great French chef penned those
until the cheese has melted and the words at the beginning of this cen-
top is starting to brown lightly. tury, and they still hold. Preparation
"with greatest care," however, does
not mean with great difficulty, since
green beans are among the easiest of
VARIATION
vegetables. It just means: "Pay atten-
tion to what's cooking!"
Brussels Sprouts au Gratin
Hashing blanched Brussels sprouts
Types of beans. The small thin green
Quarter the cooked sprouts and fold
beans, usually called haricots verts in
them into 2 cups of cheese sauce, as VARIATION
the few specialty shops that sell them,
for the Cauliflower au Cratin on page
are less than ¼ inch thick. The east-
273. Hashed Brussels Sprouts ern variety is the pencil-thick round
Sauteed in Butter bean, while the flat bean almost ½
inch wide is commonly found in the
Once hashed, saute them briefly in West.
Hashed Brussels Sprouts butter and seasonings, and serve
them around a mound of rice, for in- Buying. Buy from a market that sells
When you want loose greenery, hash stance, or as an accompaniment to beans loose, and pick out each one,
blanched Brussels sprouts. To do so broiled fish or meat. choosing beans that are smooth, a
use a big knife, or chop them a bit at
fresh green color, stringless, and
a time with pulses of the food proces-
crisp in texture. Snap and bite into
sor. The French triple-threat half-
VARIATIONS several to check on texture, and
moon cutter pictured here does a par-
whether strings run down their sides.
ticularly good job.
See also the ideas for hashed broccoli
starting on page 27 1. Amount to buy. 1 ½ pounds of round
or flat beans will serve 6 people. For
the tiny haricots verts, 1 pound
should do.
Storing. If you are not serving soon,

wrap in slightly dampened paper
towels; refrigerate in a plastic bag.
HI
Ill MASTER RECIPE Draining the beans. Immediately the
beans are done, bring the kettle to the
Blanched Green Beans sink; holding the colander in place
over it, tip the kettle and drain out
The secret to cooking green beans so all the boiling water.
that they retain all their beautiful
bright color and fine fresh texture is *Ahead-of-time note: Refreshing. If
to blanch them in a very large you are not serving at once, keep the
amount of rapidly boiling water- colander in place and run cold water
the more water per bean the quicker into the kettle. Drain again, add ice
Snapping the ends off green beans the water will return to the boil, and if you have enough on hand, and
the greener and fresher the cooked cover with more cold water. The
bean will be. Then, if you are not to faster you chill the beans the greener
serve at once, you refresh them in and fresher they will remain. As soon
cold water-ice water if possible-to as they are chilled, in 3 to 4 minutes,
stop the cooking and to retain that drain again. If you are not to serve
color and texture. (A discussion of for several hours, wrap them in a
blanching with nutritional comments clean dry towel, and refrigerate in a
is in the Special Note on page 269.) plastic bag.
For 6 servings Storage note. Thoroughly chilled

1½ to 2 pounds fresh green beans,
cooked green beans keep well for a
Frenched green beans
few hours, at least from noon to din-
prepared as described
6 to 8 quarts rapidly boiling salted ner time. But I think I can usually
Preparation. This is the time- water ( 1½ tsp salt per quart of spot the telltale taste of a too-long-
consuming part, but the only one. water)
held cooked bean. Refrigerating
Wash and drain the beans. Snap off them in a clean dry towel seems to
2 to 3 trays of ice cubes, optional but
the stem and pull it down toward the effective
help, however.
. tail on one side to remove a possible
string. Repeat with the tail on the SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: Serving suggestions for green beans.
other side-unless the beans are An 8 - to 10-quart kettle for boiling; a Carefully cooked fresh green beans
fresh from the garden and the tails cover for the kettle; a large colander are so good in themselves they need
are very tender. that will not quite fit down into the little else for enjoyment. Toasted
kettle shaved almonds-considered ultra
Frenching. Leave pencil-thin round chic in the 193 O's-are still stylish,
beans as they are. Larger and flatter Blanching. Drop the prepared beans although I'd just as soon not have my
beans cook faster and look more ele- into the boiling salted water. Cover beans interfered with. In another
gant when you french them, meaning briefly, to bring the water quickly guise, cooked green beans are mar-
you slice them into 1½- to 2-inch back to the boil, then immediately re- velous cold in a vinaigrette sauce, as
slanting strips about 3116 inch wide. move the cover. Boil uncovered until described for the Salade N i~oise on
the beans are just cooked through but page 365.
*Ahead-of-time note: Green beans may retain a slight crunch of texture-2
be prepared for cooking in advance: to 3 minutes for tiny beans or
wrap in slightly dampened paper frenched beans; 4 to 5 for whole
towels and refrigerate in a plastic bag. round beans. Test by eating several.
To reheat and serve. Just before serv- down between the thumb and forefin-
ing, turn the beans into a large no- ger of one hand, its stem pointing to-
stick frying pan and toss over mod- ward your thumbnail; pull most of
erately high heat for a moment to the stem out toward the tip of the leaf
evaporate excess moisture. Then toss with your other hand. Discard the
with a sprinkling of salt and freshly stem, and drop the leaf into a bowl of
ground pepper, and several table- fresh cold water. When all leaves are
spoons of softened butter. (Or, for stemmed, pump up and down again
fat-free beans, toss with a tablespoon in the water, and lift them out with
or two of water, plus seasonings.) your hands (leaving any sand be-
Stemming spinach leaves
Finish off, if you wish, with a sprin- hind); if there are more than a few
kling of chopped fresh parsley and a grains of dirt in the bottom of the
squeeze of lemon juice; serve Amount to buy. Two IO-ounce bowl, wash again-and again, if
immediately. packages or 2 bunches serve 4 need be. It would be a cruel waste of
people; time to have gritty spinach after all
that stemming!
1 package or 1 bunch of fresh
FRESH SPINACH spinach makes a generous ½ cup of *Ahead-of-time note: Spinach may be
cooked chopped spinach. prepared for cooking in advance;
There is no avoiding the time it takes wrap in slightly dampened paper
to wash and stem fresh spinach, but towels and refrigerate in a plastic
what a marvelous and versatile vege- bag.
table it is. Enjoy it by itself, its fresh Storing
green leaves steamed and served only COOUNGVERYYOUNGANDHOM~
with lemon, or relish chopped spin- If you are not to prepare the spinach GROWN SPINACH. When spinach is
ach simmered in cream accompany- shortly, wrap loose bunches in very fresh, young, and tender and you
ing a thick veal chop, or spinach slightly dampened paper towels and want to serve the leaves whole and
braised in stock along with ham in refrigerate in a plastic bag. Spinach simply, you need only pinch off and dis-
Madeira sauce, or spinach omelettes bought in plastic bags will usually re- card the stem, wash the leaves, drain
and spinach souffies, and spinach fill- vive and even swell up when you them briefly, and toss for a few minutes
ings in crepes and roulades. turn the leaves into a sinkful of cold in a stainless frying pan with butter,
water and let them soak for ½ hour salt, and freshly ground pepper.
or so.
COOKING OLDER SPINACH. when the
Buying spinach is older and the leaves are to be

served whole and simply, stem and wash
When spinach season comes in your Preparation it, then pile it into a vegetable steamer
area, buy it loose in bunches, choos- basket and steam it in a covered sauce-
ing fresh leaves with no wilting, and The flavor of spinach is in the leaves, pan for several minutes. When tender,
no darkened or yellowed patches. If not at all in the stems; it therefore be- either season it w ith salt, freshly ground
it is bagged in plastic, look carefully hooves the serious cook to remove the pepper, and drops offreshly squeezed
and avoid those with many broken or stems. Begin by dumping the spinach lemon juice-perfect diet food-or toss
darkened leaves. into a large bowl or sinkful of cold it with seasonings and butter.
water; pump it up and down several
times to loosen the dirt. Then, rap-
idly one at a time, grasp a leaf upside
m
Ill MASTER RECIPE mackerel, for roast beef. Braised wrap the braised spinach in the big
fresh spinach, in fact, goes just about leaves to make individual spinach
Cooked Chopped Spinach anywhere. packets which you warm slowly in
butter a few minutes before serving.
When your recipe calls for cooked Half an hour or so before you are
chopped spinach, you will blanch it ready to serve 4 to 6 people, melt 2 For 6 subrics 3 by 2 ½ inches, you
in the usual green-vegetable way, in a to 3 tablespoons softened butter in a will need 5 packages or bunches of
great pot of boiling water, then re- heavy-bottomed stainless or no-stick fresh spinach. Save out a dozen of the
fresh it in cold water to stop the frying pan . When bubbling, blend largest leaves and cut off their stems
cooking and set the fine green color. in 1 generous cup of cooked chopped at the base of the leaves; blanch them
Finally you squeeze out the excess spinach and stir over moderately about a minute until wilted, refresh
water, chop the spinach, and you are high heat for a minute or so to evapo- in cold water, and reserve. Saute the
ready to proceed. rate remaining moisture. When the rest in butter, as directed in the pre-
spinach begins to stick to the bottom ceding recipe, adding a tablespoon of
Removing excess moisture. By hand- of the pan, stir in ½ cup or so of minced shallots. Before pouring in
fuls, squeeze as much water as you beef or chicken bouillon or heavy the stock or cream, blend in 2 table-
can out of the spinach-save the last cream. Lower heat, season lightly spoons of flour and stir over moder-
colorful drops as a tonic for the cook. with salt, freshly ground pepper, and ate heat for 2 minutes to cook the
Place the piles of spinach on your perhaps a speck of nutmeg, then flour. Remove from heat, blend in
work surface. cover the pan. Simmer slowly for 5 the liquid, and proceed with the
to 7 minutes, stirring frequently to recipe.
Chopping the spinach. With a stainless prevent scorching, until the spinach
knife ( plain steel will leave a metallic is tender. Season carefully to taste . Assembling. Arrange the reserved
taste), chop the spinach on your cut- Just before serving, if you wish, leaves best side down to form 6
ting board-a food processor can be blend in a tablespoon or so more wrapping centers. Divide the cooked
risky unless you want pureed butter. spinach into 6 portions , form oval-
spinach. shaped cakes of spinach on each
wrapping center, and fold the spinach
*Ahead-of-time note: May be cooked leaves around to enclose them.
VARIATIO N
in advance to this point. Store in a
covered bowl in the refrigerator,
Subrics: Spinach Packets *Ahead-of-time note: Cover and re-
where it will keep nicely for a day at frigerate until 10 minutes before
least. serving.
When you want to present spinach in
an unusual way you save out some of
Final cooking. Saute in butter over
the big fresh leaves, braise the rest,
low heat for a minute or more on
Braised Spinach and flavor it beautifully. You then
each side, to warm through thor-
oughly. Serve as soon as possible.
What to serve with ham slices sauteed
in Madeira? Spinach braised in a
nicely flavored meat stock. Chicken
breasts poached in butter? Spinach
braised in cream . Want to stuff
crepes or a souffi.e roulade? Think
braised spinach . Think braised spin-
ach also for poached eggs, for broiled
Butter-braised spinach packets and baked cherry

tomatoes
,•.1t,',
OTHER GREEN m
feel heavy, and that have crisp fleshy Ill MASTER RECIPE
VEGETABLES leaves. Very fresh artichokes will talk

to you when you squeeze the head- Steamed Artichokes
squeaky fresh, in other words. Don't
worry about a few blisters and brown Cook artichokes either by boiling
ARTICHOKES spots as long as the leaves feel full them in a large kettle of salted water,
and fresh-growers insist these are or by steaming. Steaming is certainly
Artichokes have always been a luxury, frost spots, and that frost enhances easier for the home cook, and I think
from the time of the Romans and the flavor-and what else could they say? steaming makes the leaves more ten-
Medicis on up to the present day. der toward the tip. Whether you boil
And what a pleasure to have with us or steam them, however, the arti-
something that is both a vegetable chokes will never remain bright
and a treasure. You can feature a Storing. If you are not going to green; they always turn a green-gray
handsome boiled artichoke all by it- cook artichokes almost at once, shave because they need long cooking.
self to begin the meal, or serve it as a ¼ inch off the stems, and wrap them Therefore, if you see a cooked arti-
separate vegetable course in place of a starting at the stem end in slightly choke of a beautiful grass-green
salad, or present it as the main attrac- dampened paper towels. Store in a color, beware! It has been boiled with
tion for a luncheon. One artichoke plastic bag in the refrigerator, where soda, which is a no-no because soda
aspect that endears it to the cook is they will keep perfectly for several has a bad effect on vitamins.
that an artichoke can be served hot, days. Artichokes, like flowers, need
tepid, or cold, and one that especially moisture. For 4 servings
appeals to calorie counters is that it 4 artichokes 2½ to 3 inches at their
needs nothing in the way of a sauce- largest diameter
a wedge of lemon will do. In addi- I lemon
tion, like many high-priced items Preparation. You may cook
such as porterhouse steaks, beef ten- artichokes just about as is, after SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
derloins, and veal chops, artichokes spreading the leaves apart and A saucepan or kettle large enough to
are easy indeed to cook. running cold water into them to wash hold the artichokes, bottom up; a steam-
off any grit. However, if the leaves ing basket to hold them; a tight-fitting
have prickly points that can needle cover
the eater, slice off the top inch of the
Buying. Artichokes are in season all cone of leaves with a heavy knife. Steaming the artichokes. Prepare the
year long, but are most plentiful and Then cut off the top ½ inch of the artichokes as previously described.
therefore least expensive in March, remaining leaves with kitchen Arrange them upside down (bottom
April, and May. Choose those that shears-rubbing cut portions with up!) in one layer on the steaming bas-
half a lemon to prevent them from ket; pour an inch of water into the
darkening. Cut off the stem of the pan or kettle, cover it closely, and
artichoke even with the base, and turn on the heat. When steam starts
pull off any small or withered bottom to escape, maintain at the slow boil
leaves-rubbing again with cut for 3 0 to 40 minutes, checking water
lemon. Plan to cook them at once. level once or twice to be sure it has
not boiled away. The artichokes are
done when the bottoms are tender if
pierced with a small knife, and the
(continued )
Left: Whole artichoke
Top: Halved artichoke and quartered artichoke
First row: Whole artichoke bottom, quartered arti-
choke heart
Steamed Artichokes (continued ) For 4 servings

Artichoke Bottoms
4 steamed artichokes 3 inches in
bottom half of a leaf is tender when Artichoke bottoms are attractive first diameter
the inside flesh is scraped off between courses with a cold filling, such as a Salt and freshly ground pepper
your teeth. puree of artichoke leaves, as in the 1 lemon cut in half
following recipe. Or you can use a A little olive oil
Serving suggestions. Place each arti- crab or lobster salad, or a vegetable 2 Tbs finely minced shallots or
choke, bottom down, on a dessert combination. On the other hand, ar- scallions
plate. It is wise to serve sauces seI?a- tichoke bottoms are delicious hot, 2 Tbs minced fresh parsley
rately, since some will want only a baked with a creamed filling of some 2 to 3 Tbs mayonnaise
large lemon wedge. Melted butter · sort and a cheese topping. Or to be Decoration: parsley sprigs, or
served in individual bowls is tradi- more elegant fill a warm artichoke medallions of lobster, or shrimp
tional with warm artichokes. Or pass bottom with, for instance, a wine-
a large bowl of hollandaise sauce, and flavored mushroom duxelles topped Preparing the steamed artichokes.
each guest helps himself. fyiayonnaise with a tenderly poached egg and Carefully remove the leaves from the
or vinaigrette goes with cold Bearnaise sauce. Or fill it with artichokes, disturbing the bottom as
artichokes. poached oysters in a wine sauce, as little as possible. Scrape out the
described farther on. Another idea is choke, and trim the sides to make a
To eat an artichoke. Start with the to cut them in wedges, saute them, neat shape. Scrape the tender flesh
leaves at the bottom of the artichoke . and serve as part of a hot vegetable from the leaves (group 2 or 3 to-
Remove one and, holding it by the combination, as on page 315. gether by their tips, and scrape off
top, dip the large bottom end into the
the flesh with a spoon) . Puree the
sauce, then scrape off the tender flesh
flesh through a vegetable mill or
between your teeth. When you come
sieve into a bowl.
to the tender cone of central leaves, Steamed Stuffed Artichoke
pull off the corre, and eat the bottom Bottoms Seasoning and assembling. Season the
portion. Where you removed the
artichoke bottoms with salt, pepper,
cone is a cluster of small leaves under In this method, you use already- lemon juice, and olive oil, and ar-
which is a hairy growth, the choke, cooked artichokes, stuffing the bot- range on plates or a platter. Beat the
that coverJ the deliciously edible bottoms with a cunningly flavored puree minced shallots or scallions and pars-
tom of th~ artichoke. With knife and of the leaves. It is admittedly time-
ley into the pureed flesh, adding may-
fork from now on, cut the bottom consuming to scrape the flesh off all
onnaise and more lemon juice, salt,
into wedges, cut off and discard the those leaves, but worthwhile for 2 to and pepper to taste . Fill the bottoms
hairy portion, and dip each wedge 4, and possibly 6, servings as a first
with the puree, and decorate with
into the sauce before popping it in course, or as part of a main-course whatever you have chosen.
your mouth. luncheon dish.
Using raw artichokes. While prepar-
ing stuffed artichoke bottoms from
cooked artichokes is one method, the
neatest and most professional way is
to start with raw artichokes. You
bend the leaves until they snap, so
Filling artichoke bottoms

that the tender part of their flesh re- shown, step 1, until you have gone
mains attached to the bottom, giving beyond the curve where leaves fold
you a bigger and meatier area to fill. inward over the top of the artichoke
After trimming the bottoms, you bottom. Cut off the remaining cone
cook them in a blanc, a solution of of leaves at this curve, step 2. Rub
flour, water, salt, and lemon juice, cut portions with lemon to prevent
which prevents them from discolor- discoloration.
ing. Then, if you have made an extra
artichoke bottom or two or if you With a small sharp knife, step 3, and
boil up and scrape the leaves, you can then with a vegetable peeler, trim off
I . Bending off leaves
turn the blanc into an artichoke soup all bits of green to expose the tender
( page 12)-two meals instead of whitish flesh around the bottom and
one. at the leaf ends, frequently rubbing
the cut surfaces with lemon. Drop
the prepared bottom into the blanc
and continue with the rest. (The
To Cook Artichoke Bottoms choke is removed after cooking.)
For 6 servings Cooking the artichoke bottoms-3 0 to

40 minutes. Once all of the prepared
The blanc for cooking the bottoms
artichoke bottoms are in the blanc,
6 cups cold water
add a little more water if they are not
¼ cup flour in a 2-quart saucepan 2. Separating cone of leaves from artichoke bottom
completely submerged. Simmer 3 0 to
½ tsp salt
40 minutes, until the artichokes are
¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
perfectly tender when pierced with a
6 very fresh large artichokes 3 to 3½ knife. Let them cool, then refrigerate
inches in diameter in the liquid until needed.
1 lemon, cut in half, to use when
trimming the bottoms *Ahead-of-time note: They will keep
perfectly in their cooking liquid for 2
The blanc. Gradually beat 3 cups of or 3 days.
the cold water into the flour in the
pan, and bring to the boil; simmer a Scooping out the choke. Shortly before
moment, whisking, to be sure the using them in whatever recipe you
3. Trimming artichoke bottom
liquid is smooth and lump free. have chosen, wash them under cold
Whisk in the 3 remaining cups of water, and scoop out the choke with a
water with the salt and lemon juice. teaspoon , step 4. Trim off any tough
leaf ends, and they are ready to go.
Preparing the artichokes. Prepare Save the blanc for artichoke soup, on
them one at a time. Break the stem _page 12.
off the base of an artichoke. Holding
the artichoke bottom up, bend a
lower leaf back on itself until it
snaps, then peel it off toward the
base, leaving the meat at the bottom
of the leaf attached to the bottom of 4. Scooping out the choke
the artichoke. Continue all around as
SOME DISHES USING WARM ARTICHOKE

BOTTOMS
About 15 minutes before serving, Artichoke Bottoms or Hearts
heat through either in a 3 00°F oven Braised with whole cloves of garlic
Fonds d'Artichauts Olympe or over simmering water.
With oysters, in white wine sauce Artichoke hearts are the bottoms plus
The oysters and their sauce. Drain the the tender part of their covering cone
When you want to be elegant-or are oysters in a sieve; reserve the juices. of leaves. If you are fortunate enough
confronted with a situation where you Saute the shallots slowly in a heavy to gather very young artichokes in
have to be-this is the kind of dish stainless saucepan with 2 tablespoons the spring, they'll be tender enough
that will serve you well. Use small of butter; when shallots are limp, so that you can use all but the outer
oysters here if you can find them; fold in the drained oysters. Saute leaves; or you can pare down small
little olympias from the Seattle area over moderate heat for a minute or artichokes, halve or quarter them,
are ideal. so, until they plump up gently; re- and cut out the choke as well as the
move to a bowl with a slotted spoon. tough upper part of the inner leaf
For 6 servings Add the reserved juices, the wine, cone. Whatever the artichoke, the
and ½ cup of the artichoke cooking following recipe is a particularly sa-
6 large fine cooked artichoke liquid to the juices in the pan. Boil vory way to do them.
bottoms 3 inches in diameter if down rapidly until lightly thickened.
possible-the preceding recipe Blend by driblets into the egg yolk For 4 to 6 servings, or as part of a veg-
Salt and freshly ground white pepper and cream, and pour back into the etable garnish
2 Tbs melted butter plus 2 or more pan. Stir over moderate heat, bring-
Tbs additional butter 1 or 2 artichoke bottoms or
ing the sauce just to the simmer.
1 pint fresh shucked oysters (if artichoke hearts per person
Carefully correct seasoning, and fold
unusually large, cut them in half 2 or more Tbs fruity olive oil
in the oysters.
after cooking) Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 or more Tbs wine vinegar
1 Tbs minced shallots *Ahead-of-time note: Set aside or re-
½ cup or so dry white wine or dry 2 cups sliced onions
frigerate, the top filmed with a little
white French vermouth 2 heads of large garlic cloves, peeled
cream; reheat to below the simmer
½ cup or so blanc ( artichoke cooking (see Special Note next page)
before proceeding.
liquid; see preceding recipe) Thyme, oregano, or rosemary
1 egg yolk blended in a bowl with ½ ½ cup dry white wine or French
Serving. Arrange the hot artichoke
cup heavy cream vermouth, and/or chicken broth
bottoms, hollow side up, on a hot
2 Tbs minced fresh parsley 2 to 3 Tbs chopped fresh parsley
platter or plates. Fold a tablespoon or
so of softened butter into the oysters SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
Warming the artichoke bottoms. Season if you wish, then divide the oysters A heavy covered 10-inch chicken fryer
the artichoke bottoms lightly with salt among the artichoke bottoms and or frying pan 2 inches deep
and pepper, and paint with the spoon the sauce over them . Decorate
melted butter. Set in a covered pan. with a sprinkling of parsley, and you
may wish to accompany the dish with
fleurons of puff pastry ( page 3 9 5), or
toast canapes (heart-shaped cut-outs
of white bread sauteed in clarified
butter, page 139).
The artichokes. Prepare the artichoke Preparation. It is a cruel waste to

bottoms as directed in the recipe on bend asparagus until it breaks, and
page 2 8 1, and cut into quarters or then to throw the rest-a good third
sixths; or prepare the hearts as de- of it-away! Carefully peeled,
scribed in the headnote to this recipe. asparagus spears are tender from tip
to butt, and long peeled spears are
Braising. Film the chicken fryer with elegant to serve. In addition, peeled
a 1/16-inch layer of olive oil, add the asparagus cooks in far less time than
artichokes, and saute over moderately unpeeled asparagus, and also remains
low heat, tossing occasionally, until greener and fresher. To peel the
Peeling and storing asparagus
just beginning to color-3 to 4 min- spears with a small sharp knife, start
utes. Season lightly with salt and pep- at the butt end and, holding the spear
per, and toss with droplets of the ASPARAGUS butt up, cut down to the tender flesh,
vinegar. Saute a moment longer, then making the cut more shallow as you
add the onions and garlic; toss with a Like artichokes, asparagus is another reach the tender area near the tip. Or
little more salt and pepper, and with beautiful luxury vegetable that can lay the spear flat and use a vegetable
whatever herb you have chosen. stand on its own as a separate course. peeler.
. Cover the pan and cook slowly 5 Again like the artichoke, it's easy on
minutes; add the wine or stock, the cook since it can be served hot, *Ahead-of-time note: If you are not
cover, and simmer another 5 min- warm, or cold, and asparagus is per- cooking shortly, wrap peeled aspara-
utes, or until the artichokes are ten- fect diet food because it is delicious gus in damp towels and refrigerate.
der. Uncover and boil off excess eaten just as it is.
moisture, tossing; correct seasoning.
SPECIAL NOTE
Serving suggestions. Toss with the
parsley and, if you wish, a little more Buying. Buy firm spears that are
completely closed at the bud end-
To Peel Garlic Cloves
olive oil. Serve as they are-with
steaks, chops, broiled fish, or serious markets keep asparagus
Separating the cloves from the head.
chicken. Or add them to finish cook- standing on damp towels or in a
Shave the tops off the heads of garlic,
ing with an otherwise plain chicken shallow pan of water. Choose fresh,
then bang down on the tops with your
saute, such as the master recipe on firm, smooth fat spears that are all
fist to separate the cloves.
page 13 7. Or fold them into sauteed the same size-fat spears are just as
potatoes or braised carrots. tender as thin ones and much easier
Peeling. To peel them easily, drop
to prepare.
them into a pan of boiling water for
3 0 seconds, drain, run cold water
over them, and slip off the skins with
your fingers.
Storing. At home, cut a finger
width off the butts to reach the moist
ends, wash the spears thoroughly,
especially at the tip ends, and stand
them upright in a container, their
butts in 2 inches of cold water. Cover
loosely with a plastic bag, and
refrigerate. Treated this way, fresh
asparagus will stay fresh and fine for
2 to 3 days.
mMASTER RECIPE To serve cold. Drain in one layer on a BOIL-STEAMING:

tray lined with a clean towel and rap- BRAISING
Plain Boiled Asparagus idly cool, near an open window if
possible. Then arrange on a platter
Once peeled, asparagus is easy indeed or plates. If you are seasoning the as-
to cook. None of that old-fashioned paragus with vinaigrette dressing, WINTER SQUASH, RUTABAGA,
steaming-the-tips-and-boiling-the- which should be added at the last CARROTS, TURNIPS, AND BEETS AS
butts business because the stalks are minute to preserve the green aspara- WELL AS GREEN PEAS AND ONIONS
tender from end to end. gus color, you may then wish to deco-
C
rate with strips of red pimiento, or
For 6 servings, 6 to 8 fat spears per spoon over the upper third a mixture arrots, turnips, rutabaga,
person of chopped hard-boiled eggs and beets, onions, and winter
parsley tossed with a sprinkle of salt squash are wonderfully sturdy char-
36 to 48 fine fresh asparagus spears,
and pepper. acters, each with its own nourishing
all the same diameter, and all
personality, but all may be cooked in
peeled
much the same way.
4 to 5 quarts rapidly boiling water in
an oval casserole or large frying VARIATION
The boil-steam or braise method is
pan
the general technique when you plan
1 ½ tsp salt per quart of water Sauteed Asparagus Tips to serve the vegetable whole, like on-
Suggested accompaniments ions, or in nicely cut bite-size pieces,
When you want an attractive vege-
For hot asparagus: melted butter; or when you are to puree it. The
table garnish to accompany an egg
hollandaise sauce (page 8 7); boil-steam works wonders for store-
dish, a ragout of duck, or a saute,
lemon-butter sauce (page 83); bought green peas as well.
think of asparagus tips. Peel the as-
and/or lemon wedges paragus and boil as described in the
For cold asparagus: vinaigrette preceding master recipe, but boil
Boil-Steamed Butternut
dressing and its variations (page only until almost but not quite ten- Squash
351); mayonnaise (page 363); der. Cut into slanting pieces about an
and/or lemon wedges For 6 servings
inch long-if you have fat spears you
may also want to halve them length- A 1½-pound butternut squash (or
Lay the asparagus in the boiling wise. Just before serving, heat 2 other hard yellow-fleshed squash)
salted water, cover the casserole or tablespoons of butter in a large Salt
pan, and watch carefully until water frying pan, over moderately high 2 Tbs butter, optional
comes back to the boil; immediately heat. When bubbling hot, turn in the
uncover it. Boil slowly for 4 to 5 asparagus. Season lightly with salt
minutes, just until asparagus spears and freshly ground pepper, and,
start to bend a little when lifted. Test swirling the pan by its handle, toss
by eating the butt end of a spear. As- the asparagus in the hot butter for the
paragus should be just cooked minute or two it takes to warm it
through with a slight crunch. Imme- through. Toss with an additional
diately remove the asparagus from tablespoon or two of softened butter
the water. if you wish to glaze the asparagus.
Serve immediately.
To serve hot. Arrange on a napkin-
lined platter-to catch moisture; or The best way to halve a winter squash
drain briefly on a clean towel, then
arrange in a hot platter or on hot
plates.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: VARIATION Carrots

A mallet and heavy knife or cleaver if
needed; a heavy-bottomed 2 ½-quart Golden Purees Boil-steaming and braising are inter-
saucepan with tight-fitting cover changeable cooking terms for vege-
These are alternatives to mashed tables, but for carrots one usually
Preparing the squash. Halve the squash or mashed potatoes, and go speaks of braising, although they are
squash (using mallet or cleaver if especially well with roast turkey or boil-steamed in the same way as the
necessary), and scrape out all seeds goose. After pureeing the cooked preceding examples. When braised
and stringy parts. Cut off the hard squash ( or the carrots or rutabaga in carrots are served as a garniture, you
outside peel. If you are to serve the the following recipes) and stirring may wish to use baby carrots-time-
squash simply as is, cut the flesh into over heat to evaporate moisture, consuming as they are to peel; or cut
neat ¼-inch chunks; otherwise, cut it blend in a cup of mashed potatoes, large carrots into attractive pieces.
into rough pieces. beating in butter or cream and Braising, or boil-steaming-where
seasomngs. you lose none of the cooking liquid-
Boil-steaming. Fill the saucepan ·with gives carrots a particularly fine taste.
enough water to come halfway up the
squash, bring to the boil, and add ½ AMOUNTS. A 7- to 8-inch carrot
teaspoon of salt and the optional but- OTHER VEGETABLES weighs 3 ½ to 4 ½ ounces; count on 1 to
ter. Toss up once or twice, cover the 1½ carrots per person.
pan, and boil 8 to 10 minutes-add- BOIL-STEAMED CARROTS, TURNIPS,
ing more liquid if needed, until the RUTABAGA, PARSNIPS, PEAS, AND
squash is tender. If it is done and liq- ONIONS

SPECIAL NOTE
uid remains, uncover and boil it off.
P
(Cooked this way, no flavor escapes: it The Long-Wedge Cut for
is all reabsorbed into the squash.) eel the vegetables, and leave
them whole or cut them into
Cooked Carrots
*Ahead-of-time note: Set aside uncov- neat pieces or chunks, depending on
Choose fine crisp carrots 7 to 8 inches
ered. To reheat, add a dribble of your final intentions. Boil-steam them
long and 1¼ inches across their stem
water, cover, and let steam a minute in a covered pan with water, salt, and
end-if they have their green foliage
or two, watching it does not scorch. optional butter the same way as in the
attached, you know they are freshly
master recipe for butternut squash.
harvested. Trim them with a knife,
Serving suggestions. Here are some special treatments.
and peel them with a vegetable peel-
er. Cut in half lengthwise, then cut
With herbs and butter. Just before the halves crosswise into lengths of
serving, toss the squash gently with a approximately 1½ inches. Leave the
little butter and chopped fresh chives ends as is, but cut the other pieces
or parsley. lengthwise into halves, thirds, or
quarters so that all pieces look nearly
Puree of yellow squash. Puree the alike . In French cooking this is
cooked squash in a food processor or known as the bourgeois cut; the
vegetable mill. Stir several minutes housewife or menagere cut is in easy
over moderate heat in a heavy- round slices. In the haute cuisine,
bottomed pan to evaporate excess however, you make the long wedge
The wedge cut for carrots
moisture. Then blend in as much and then round all the edges en
butter and/or cream as you deem fit- gousse-in the shape of large garlic
ting. Season carefully to taste . cloves-tres chic indeed, when you
have the time.
VARIATION
Boil-Steamed Carrots slow gratine, where it acquires its
And braised and glazed carrots special flavor and texture.
Puree of Parsnips Mel/owed
For 6 servings For 6 servings with Cream
6 to 9 carrots 8 inches long, peeled For the initial cooking A heavenly accompaniment to a
and cut into long wedges, as in 1½ pounds rutabaga or winter roasted goose or duck, the Thanks-
Special Note, page 285 squash, cut into ¾-inch dice-4 to giving turkey, or a loin of pork.
Salt 5 cups Puree a handful of boil-steamed pars-
½ tsp grated fresh ginger nips. Blend them in the top of a
For glazed carrots
1 large clove of garlic, minced double boiler with a modest amount
3 Tbs butter (2 for initial cooking, 1
For the gratine of cream(½ to½ cup for 4 cups of
for glazing)
parsnips), and season to taste. Cover
1½ tsp sugar 2 cups classic white sauce (3 Tbs
and cook, stirring occasionally, for
butter, 3 Tbs flour, 2 cups milk;
15 to 2 0 minutes-the puree will de-
Preliminary cooking. Boil-steam the see Special Note, page 272)
velop a new and delicious character
carrots in a covered saucepan with 3 Tbs fresh white bread crumbs
as it warms with the cream. Correct
water to come halfway up them, and 3 Tbs grated Swiss cheese
seasoning again before serving.
salt, as described in the master rec-
ipe; add 2 tablespoons of butter if SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
you are to glaze them. When tender, A vegetable ~teamer in a tightly covered
and the liquid has evaporated, the saucepan; a 2 ½-quart pan for the
sauce; a buttered 6-cup baking dish Onions
carrots will begin to saute in the
residue of their juices. Correct about 2 inches deep
seasonmg.
White-Braised Onions
The initial steaming. Place the diced
rutabaga or squash in the steaming This is the same boil-steam system
Glazing. Just before serving, add the
basket with the ginger and garlic. used for squash, carrots, turnips, and
additional butter and the sugar. Toss
Cover and steam over 1 inch of water beets-where the cooking liquid is
gently over moderately high heat to
for about 10 minutes, until almost almost entirely absorbed by the vege-
glaze them with a buttery sheen.
tender. Remove the steamer. Boil table, and none of the essential flavor
down the steaming liquid to ¼ cup; is lost.
whisk into the sauce.
Gratin of Rutabaga or 12 to 16 onions 1 inch in diameter,
peeled (see Special Note)
Winter Squash Assembling and baking. Preheat the
oven to 3 2 5°F. Fold the rutabaga or ½ cup or so water or chicken broth
squash into the white sauce, and turn Salt
This goes beautifully with roast tur-
into the buttered baking dish. Spread 1 imported bay leaf, optional
key or a roast of pork. The squash
on the crumbs and cheese. Bake in 1 Tbs butter, optional
has its initial cooking in a steaming
basket, before undergoing a very the middle level of the oven for 1½
hours; the top should be nicely and
A covered saucepan or frying pan that
lightly browned, and the sauce almost
will hold the onions easily in one layer
completely absorbed.
rapidly, uncovered, to evaporate any An unlikely candidate for the

cooking juices; fold with a little but- boil-steam system
ter and minced fresh parsley, and
they make a fine accompaniment to
almost any main-course dish.
Fresh Green
*Ahead-of-time note: May be braised Store-Bought Peas
in advance, and reheated.
Few of us are so lucky as to have ten-
P iercing the root end of an onion
der fresh green peas just out of the
VARIATIONS
garden, so sweet and young they
hardly need warming through . How-
Creamed Onions ever, and remarkably enough, the
SPECIAL NOTE boil-steam system will allow you to
Creamed onions go beautifully with cook up your store-bought peas deli-
To Peel Onions ciously green, sweet, and tender.
roast chicken or turkey, and this is a
particularly succulent way to do This is the method of my old French
When you have a lot of onions that chef and maftre Max Bugnard, and I
them. When the preceding onions are
need neat peeling, especially the have al ways used it with great
just tender, fold in 2/J to ¾ cup of
small white ones used for creamed success.
heavy cream and simmer several
onions and a number of other dishes ,
minutes, until thickened, basting sev-
here's the easy way. For 4 to 6 servings
eral times with the cream. Correct
seasoning, and fold, if you wish, 2 pounds fresh peas (about 3 cups
Drop them into a pan of boiling
with minced parsley. shelled)
water for exactly 1 minute; remove
with a slotted spoon. Shave off the ½ tsp salt
1 Tbs, more or less, sugar (see note
root and stem ends, keeping the on-
at end of recipe)
ion !aye.rs attached at the root.
Brown-Braised Onions ¼ cup minced scallions ( white part
and tender green)
Slip off the skins, and pierce a cross
These would go with braised beef, 2 or more Tbs butter, optional but
1/s inch deep in the root ends to help
coq au vin, or in any dish where a desirable
prevent bursting.
white braised onion would look inap- Water, as needed
propriately stark.
Place the peas in a heavy-bottomed
Boil-steaming. Place the onions in the In a pan just roomy enough to hold saucepan, add the salt, ½ tablespoon
pan, add water or chicken stock to them in one layer, saute the peeled of the sugar, scallions, and optional
come halfway up the onions, and salt onions in a little clarified butter or butter. Mash the peas roughly with a
lightly; add the optional bay leaf and oil, swirling the pan to turn them; rubber spatula to bruise them and
butter. Cover the pan and simmer they will not brown evenly, but will work a bit of the other ingredients
slowly 25 to 3 0 minutes, until the take on a decent amount of color. into their skins-you do not have to
onions are tender when pierced but Then add chicken broth (and, if you be rough, but you should bruise the
still hold their shape-be careful to wish, a little red wine) to come half- peas slightly. Add water barely to
cook them slowly so they will not way up. Season lightly with salt and cover the peas, put a lid on the pan,
burst. perhaps a bay leaf or a pinch of dried and bring to the full boil. Boil for 10
herbs. Cover and simmer slowly 25 to 15 minutes, or more, until the
Serving suggestions. These are usually to 3 0 minutes, until the onions are peas are tender (adding driblets of
called for as part of another recipe. tender when pierced but still hold water if necessary to prevent them
But to serve them as is, boil down their shape.
( continued)
Fresh Green Store-Bought Peas (continued) Optional sauce: Remove the steamer
and keep the cabbage warm while
from scorching)-taste one or two as you rapidly boil down the steaming
a test. When the peas are done, all liquid until almost syrupy. Off heat,
the water should have evaporated ; if swirl in the butter a tablespoon at a
not, uncover and boil it off. Correct time, correct seasoning, fold in the
seasonmg. parsley, and anoint each wedge with a
spoonful of sauce.
*Ahead-of-time note: If done some-
what in advance, set aside uncovered;
Steami ng cabbage wedges
toss over heat with several table-
SPECIAL NOTE
spoons more water until well heated .
m
Ill MASTER RECIPE
To Shred (Finely Slice)
Serving. Just before serving, if you
wish , toss with a tablespoon or two of Cabbage Steamed in Wedges Cabbage
additional butter.
For 6 servings By hand. Halve, then quarter and re-
move cores from the cabbage. P lace a
N ote: The natural sweetness of peas A 2½-pound cabbage (a 7- to 8-inch wedge of cabbage curved side down
diminishes almost as soon as they are head) on your work surface. Holdi ng it by
picked, so the addition of a little 2 cups or so meat or chicken stock its pointed wedge end, make very
sugar is needed-taste the peas as Salt and freshly ground pepper thin slices on the bias with a big
they cook, and add if you feel it nec- 2 Tbs butter, optional sharp knife as illustrated.
essary, being very careful not to ov- A handful of chopped fresh parsley,
erdo and exceed nature's own. optional In a food processor. Processor shred-
ding remained a cook-stumper until
Carl Sontheimer, the American fa-
A wide and deep saucepan with cover; a
ther of that revolutionary machine,
CABBAGE AND steaming basket
evolved this ingenious system. Slice
SAUERKRAUT
off the cap (top) and the stem sections
Steaming. Halve the cabbage through
(bottom) of the cabbage, leaving
Cabbage and sauerkraut were the the root; cut each half into 3 wedges.
yourself with a thick cylinder. Core
vegetable mainstays in the days of Being careful always to keep the
out the cylinder's central stalk with a
old-world cooking, when cabbage leaves in their wedge shape, cut out
stout sharp knife, and cut the cylin-
was the only winter greenery around the central cores. Pour 1½ inches of
der into wedges of a size to fit into
in those long-ago pre-refrigerator stock ( plus water if needed) into the
your machine. Now you are ready to
times. They bring forth visions of pan. Fit the steamer into the pan, and
shred, wedge by wedge.
fragrant soups and stews , steaming arrange the cabbage wedges in it,
platters of pork and sausages , and the curved sides down. Baste the cabbage
good simple life. It's a boon today, as with a little of the stock, salt lightly,
well, to have a vegetable like cabbage cover the pan, and steam about 15
at hand , since it keeps well under re- minutes, or until just tender.
frigeration, ready at once to become a
salad, the perfect accompaniment to *Ahead-of-time note: May be cooked
the perfect pork chop, or a quick ahead, and set aside uncovered. Baste
vegetable to go with the ham or the with the stock in the pan, cover, and
boiled dinner. And speaking of steam to warm through just before
boiled dinners, certainly the best way servmg.
to cook the traditional cabbage is to Shredding cabbage
steam it in wedges.
mMASTER RECIPE
111 VARIATION SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
A heavy stainless 3 -quart saucepan with
Steamed Shredded Cabbage Creamed Cabbage cover; a big sharp knife for shredding,
or a food processor (see Special Note)
This is very fast , taking only 5 to 7 When the preceding cabbage is ten-
minutes of cooking. der, fold in ½ cup or so of heavy Assembling. Set the saucepan over
cream and boil down rapidly until moderate heat with the butter, oil, or
For 6 servings thickened. fat. When hot, stir in the onion and
saute several minutes, until limp.
A 2-pound head of cabbage,
Add the garlic and cook a moment
shredded (see Special Note)
more. Then fold in the cabbage along
½ cup beef or chicken stock, or
Braised Shredded Red with l teaspoon of salt, several
water
Cabbage grinds of pepper, the caraway seeds,
bay leaf, the grated apple, chicken
2 to 3 Tbs butter, or goose, duck, or
Red cabbage makes an especially at- broth, red wine, vinegar, and sugar.
. pork fat, optional
tractive accompaniment to such
A handful of chopped fresh parsley,
homely delights as pork chops and C ooking-10 to 15 minutes. Cover
optional
sausages. It also goes well with tur- the saucepan and boil 10 to 15 min-
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: key, goose, duck, and roast pork, and utes, tossing occasionally, until the
A heavy stainless saucepan w ith cover is surprisingly good with broiled cabbage is just tender-add a little
swordfish steaks and mackerel. As more broth (or water) if the liquid
Place the cabbage in the saucepan usual with red vegetables, you need a evaporates before the cabbage is
with the stock or water, a little salt , little acid to retain the color-in this done. On the other hand, if the cab-
and the optional butter or fat. Bring instance a sour apple, a little red bage is tender and liquid remains,
to the rapid boil , cover, and boil 5 wine, and a discreet dollop of red uncover the pan and boil it off, stir-
minutes, tossing once or twice , until wrne vrnegar. ring and tossing to prevent scorch-
just tender. Taste , and cor rect seasoning. Taste very carefully and correct
ing. Toss with the optional parsley. For 6 servings seasoning. Toss with a handful of
chopped fresh parsley, and the cab-
3 Tbs butter or oil, or rendered
*Ahead-of-time note: May be cooked bage is ready to serve.
goose, duck, or pork fat
ahead. Set aside uncovered; cover and 1 large red onion, thinly sliced
toss over heat just before adding the *Ahead-of-time note: If cooked in ad-
parsley and serving. vance, set aside uncovered and toss
6 cups shredded red cabbage (half a
over heat, adding parsley just before
6-inch head)
servrng.
Seasonings: salt and freshly ground
pepper, 2 tsp caraway seeds, and
1 imported bay leaf
1 cooking apple, such as Granny
Smith, grated
¾ cup chicken broth
¾ cup red wine
1 Tbs red wine vinegar
1 Tbs sugar
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley
Braised Sauerkraut
Sauerkraut is shredded green cabbage

that has been layered with salt and
weighted down in a crock until it fer-
ments-an ancient way of preserving
before canning and freezing were
known. Sauerkraut has its own dis-
tinctive and slightly sour quality that
blends deliciously with pork, ham,
and sausages. Look for it in bottles or
packaged in plastic, in the refriger-
ated meat or deli case. Read the la-
bel-do not buy sweetened
sauerkraut (usually Kosher); Dutch
and German styles are generally
nonsweet.
Unlike most recipes for sauerkraut,

the following is fat-free. Serve as is
or use it in the choucroute with pork
chops and sausages on page 204. Braised sauerkraut and sausages
For 8 servings
if necessary. Finally drain the sauer- STEAMED EGGPLANT
2 pounds sauerkraut kraut and squeeze by handfuls to re- DISHES
3 cups thinly sliced onions move excess water; fluff up the
1 cup dry white French vermouth or strands, and you are ready to go. Steaming is an easy way to cook
dry white wine whole eggplant, and you have perfect
3 cups chicken broth Assembling. Meanwhile, in a heavy 5- control over its cooking. When ten-
Seasonings: ½ tsp each caraway quart covered saucepan, simmer the der through and through halve and
seeds and thyme, 2 imported bay onions in the vermouth or wine for 8 season it, then serve it just as is. Or
leaves, salt, and freshly ground to 10 minutes, or until tender. Blend turn it quickly into eggplant caviar,
pepper the soaked and squeezed sauerkraut that habit-forming Middle Eastern
info the onions, folding in the cara- puree. Or, to be elegant, turn it into
Soaking the sauerkraut. Drain the way, thyme, bay leaves, a little salt, a handsome souffie.
sauerkraut, and taste it. If you wish and several grinds of pepper.
to remove some of the sour taste,
soak it in a large bowl of cold water Braising. Bring to the simmer on top
for 20 minutes. Drain, wash, and of the stove, cover the pan, and boil Choosing and storing eggplant.
taste again to see how you like it. slowly for about 3 0 minutes, stirring Be choosy indeed, and pick only
Soak again, and repeat several times up occasionally, until the sauerkraut eggplant that is firm and shiny with
is tender. The liquid should have al- taut skin and no bruises: if it is dull
most completely evaporated. If not, and even slightly soft it will have a
uncover the pan and boil rapidly, bitter unpleasant taste. Since
tossing, until it has reduced to noth- eggplants do not keep well, plan to
ing. Correct seasoning. cook it soon; but if you cannot, wrap
it loosely in paper towels, slip it
into a plastic bag and refrigerate.
r
1,1 MASTER RECIPE Eggplant Caviar
Eggplant pureed with garlic, lemon, and
Steamed Whole Eggplant olive oil
1 or several firm shiny eggplants This marvelous mixture to serve as a

vegetable or cocktail dip is described
on page 333.
A steaming rack in a roomy covered
saucepan, or a rack in a covered roaster
MICROWAVE NOTE: You can use the

Eggplant Sauteed with
microwave oven for whole eggplant if
you fuss over it, turn it, and keep test-
Onions and Parsley
ing; I find steaming far easier.
A milder version of the preceding
eggplant caviar, and especially attrac-
Wash the eggplant and place in the
tive as a vegetable to go with broiled
steaming contraption. Add an inch or
fish or chicken, roast meats, steaks,
so of water, cover tightly, and steam
chops, and hamburgers.
20 to 30 minutes, depending on size. Steamed Eggplant with Parsley Sauce
The eggplant is done when it is soft
Steam the eggplants as directed in the
and somewhat shriveled: a skewer or
flesh in several places with cross- master recipe, and scoop out the
sharp-pronged fork will pierce hatch cuts 3/s inch deep. Mash ¼ tea- flesh. Meanwhile, set a frying pan
through it easily. L ay it on your work
spoon salt with a large clove of pu- over moderate heat, add a little olive
surface; slice off the green cap, then
reed garlic to a paste in a small bowl. oil, and saute 1½ cups of minced on-
slice the eggplant in half length-
By droplets, whisk in 1½ to 3 table- ions until tender. Fold in 2 or 3 large
wise-the flesh should be tenderly
spoons of lemon juice and, if you cloves of pureed garlic and saute a
soft and white throughout, with the wish, several tablespoons of olive oil. few seconds; blend in the eggplant
seeds a light tan.
Spoon this sauce over the eggplant, flesh. Season with salt and freshly
and spread on a generous topping of ground pepper, cover the pan, and
chopped fresh parsley. Serve warm, cook slowly 10 minutes, stirring oc-
or let cool, basting several times with casionally, until the eggplant is thor-
Steamed Eggplant with
the accumulated juices. oughly tender. Uncover, raise the
Parsley Sauce
heat, and saute for several minutes,
tossing, to brown very lightly. Fold
Serve this quick-to-prepare eggplant
VARIATION in a handful of chopped fresh pars-
as a first course or in place of a salad,
ley; taste and correct seasoning.
or as a vegetable to accompany roast
lamb or broiled chicken or fish. It is, Steamed Eggplant with Salsa
by the way, the perfect dieter's dish, Garnish
since you may omit the olive oil in
the sauce, and still have lots of flavor. Top the steamed eggplant with salsa
(page 200). That spicy Mexican rel-
While it is still warm, slice the ish, with its tomatoes, peppers, cu-
eggplant into quarters lengthwise, cumbers, and herbs, makes steamed
and arrange on a platter. Slash the eggplant a more elaborate dish. Serve
it on a buffet table or to accompany
cold cuts, meat loaf, or cold sliced
chicken or turkey.
N oncollapsible Eggplant
Souffle
As you can see, eggplant makes a

handsome molded souffie, especially
when decorated with shiny purple
eggplant skin. And this one is, actu-
ally, noncollapsible, so you need have
no worries. Serve it hot, warm, or
cold with roast or barbecued meats or
poultry, have it as a main course with
a salad of sliced tomatoes, or even
take it on a picnic.
For 8 servings
Two 1 ½-pound eggplants: the

preceding saute of eggplant, but
save the skin as described here in
the recipe
Olive oil
The souffie base N oncollapsible E ggplant Souffie
3 egg yolks
1 cup thick white sauce ( 4 Tbs The eggplant. Follow directions for
butter, 5 Tbs flour, and 1 ½ cups steaming the eggplants, and, when
hot milk; see Special Note, page done, quarter them lengthwise.
272) Scoop off all but ½ inch of flesh,
Salt and freshly ground pepper leaving the skin intact. Continue with
½ cup coarsely grated Swiss cheese the preceding saute recipe, cooking
5 stiffly beaten egg whites (page 461) the onions, and adding the eggplant
2 cups fresh tomato sauce (page flesh and seasonings.
358), for serving
The eggplant skin. Meanwhile, oil the
Cooking the eggplant skin
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: frying pan and the eggplant skin.
A grapefruit knife for scooping flesh Lay the skin flesh-side down in the
from skin; a JO -inch frying pan and a frying pan and set a lid or pie plate The souffle mixture. Beat the egg yolks
lid or pie plate to fit down into it, for on top to flatten it as illustrated; cook into the white sauce, then fold in the
eggplant skin; a round 2 ½-quart oiled slowly over low heat until the skin is eggplant, salt and pepper to taste,
baking dish; a 2½-quart saucepan for tender but not browned-15 to 20 and the grated cheese.
the souffle base; a double-thickness strip minutes. Cut the skin into strips and
of oiled aluminum foil and straight arrange skin side down in the baking *Ahead-of-time note: The recipe may
pins, as a collar for the dish; a roasting dish, to make a decorative pattern. be completed in advance to this
pan to hold the dish point.
J ULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK VEGETABLES 293
Finishing the souffle. Preheat the oven GRATED SAUTEED-

to 400°F and place a roasting pan STEAMED VEGETABLES
with 1 inch of water on a rack in the
lower middle level. Beat the egg
whites. Stir a quarter of them into
the eggplant mixture; delicately fold
in the rest. Being careful not to dis-
turb the eggplant skins, turn the
M ost of our full -flavored
root vegetables are long to
cook in conventional ways, and are
therefore too often neglected. But
souffie mixture into the baking dish. with the grated-saute system you can
Pin the oiled collar of foil around the serve, for instance, a ten-minute con-
Grating beets in a food processor
top of the dish, letting it come 2 fetti of turnips to garnish the pork
inches above the rim but no more chop, or a fast and pretty nest of
than 1 inch below the rim- or it beets with your rapidly sauteed breast
'f
1,1 MASTER RECIPE
might syphon up the water in the of duck. Zucchini, too, is easy, fast,
pan. and attractive when done this way. Grated Sauteed-Steamed
Beets
Baking-I¼ hours at 400°F. Set the
souffie in the pan of water and bake For 6 servings
in the ·preheated oven until it has BEETS
2 pounds fresh beets, without tops
puffed, and is browned lightly on
top. Cooked fresh beets have such fine fla-
vor of their own, I am surprised they
1 tsp red-wine vinegar or raspberry
Serving. Remove the souffie from the figure so rarely on vegetarian menus.
vinegar
oven and let cool 15 minutes-it will And how beautifully they go in any
sink an inch or so. Remove the col- form with duck, pork chops, and SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
lar, and turn a serving platter upside even a little saute of fresh foie gras. A food processor or vegetable mill with
down over the dish; reverse the two They take well to garlic vinaigrettes, grating-disk holes of about 3116 inch; a
to unmold the souffie. You may wish too, as well as to composed salads. If 10-inch no-stick frying pan with cover
to decorate the top with tomato cut- you bake, boil, or steam them whole,
outs and parsley, as shown. Pass the they need almost an hour. However, Peel and grate the beets-you will
tomato sauce separately. Serve hot, when you grate them, they are ready have about 4 cups. Melt the butter
tepid, or cold. in under 15 minutes . over moderate heat in the frying pan,
add the beets, and toss about to coat
*Ahead-of-time note: You may keep with the butter. Toss with ½ teaspoon
the unmolded souffie warm for ½ of salt, some pepper, and 1 teaspoon
SPHCIAL N OTE
hour or more: leave it in its pan of of vinegar, then add ¼ inch of water.
water, cover loosely, and let it remain Cover and cook about 10 minutes,
Removing Beet Stains
in the turned-off oven, its door ajar. tossing occasionally-careful not to
Fresh beets are perhaps avoided by mash or coagulate them-until the
some of us because they do stain fin- beets are tender and the liquid has
gers and cutting boards a bright beet evaporated ( add droplets more water
red. Remove stains from your hands
by wetting them and rubbing with (co ntinued)
salt, then washing in soap and water.

A little bleach will immediately re-
move stains from boards and
utensils.
d,i,
i1
Grated Sauteed-Steamed Beets (co ntinued)

m
111 MASTER RECIPE
SPECIAL NOTE
if needed during cooking). Toss with Grated Sauteed Zucchini
more butter, if you wish, and adjust Angel-Hair Winter Squash,
seasonings to taste. T urnips, or Carrots Grated zucchini goes with almost
everything-roast or sauteed
*Ahead-of-time note: M ay be cooked Use the fine ( #2) disk of the little chicken, broiled fish, steaks, and
ahead and reheated. Mouli Julienne machine pictured chops. The recipe here sautes in but-
here, reasonably priced and available ter, but you might also look at the
Beet variations in most hardware and gourmet fat-free zucchini with onions and red
stores. These very finely grated vege- peppers, and with spinach, farther
Shallots or garlic. Saute 2 to 3 tables cook in 3 or 4 minutes. You along.
tablespoons of minced shallots for a might flank a serving of duck or tur-
moment in the butter before adding key, for instance, with angel-hair For 6 servings
the beets. Or puree a clove or two of squash on one side, and white turnips
2 pounds zucchini ( 6 to 8 zucchini, 8
garlic and toss with the beets before on the other.
inches long)
sauteing.
½ tsp salt
3 Tbs butter
Herbs. And/or toss with a sprin-
2 Tbs chopped shallots or scallions
kling of minced fresh parsley or
chives before serving. SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
A food processor or vegetable mill with
Grated beets in garlic vinaigrette. medium grating disk; a colander; a
Use olive oil rather than butter for towel, for squeezing; a 10-inch no-stick
cooking the beets; puree a clove or frying pan, or a wok
two of garlic and toss with the beets
before sauteing. After cooking, toss Preparing the zucchini. Scrub the zuc-
with a little more olive oil and drop- Grating squash in hand-crank Mouli Julienne chini under cold running water;
lets more vinegar; let cool, and toss machine
shave off the two ends but do not
again with seasonings before serving. peel. Grate it, and toss with the salt
in the colander. Let steep for a few
minutes, then twist by handfuls in
VARIATION GRATED ZUCCHINI the corner of the towel to extract ex-
cess liquid-you will be surprised at
Grated Sauteed-Steamed Zucchini is so quick and easy to cook the amount, which you can save for
Turnips, Rutabaga, or Carrots when grated and sauteed, and this when you make the Cratin of Grated
cooking method gives it a real tex- Zucchini #2, which follows later.
Peel, grate, and saute-steam turnips, ture. You do have to squeeze grated
rutabaga, or carrots the same way as zucchini before sauteing it, however, Sauteing. Heat the butter to foaming
for the preceding beets; however, to rid it of its extra moisture. If you in the frying pan, toss in the shallots
they will take only about 5 minutes to don't squeeze, it takes too long to or scallions, then the zucchini. Toss
cook. cook and rather than textured zuc- over high heat several minutes, just
chini you end up with mush. until tender. Serve as is.
*Ahead-of-time note: Zucchini cooked Cratin of Grated Zucchini #2 slices of red bell pepper or strips of
this way is at its best when served at bottled pimiento. Boil over high
once. But you can grate and squeeze Veloute sauce. Save the squeezed-out heat, uncovered, for a few minutes,
it out well in advance. juices from the zucchini. While the until the zucchini is tender and the
zucchini is sauteing, or afterward, liquid has evaporated . Correct sea-
make a pale green veloute sauce (see ·soning and fold in, if you wish, a
OTHER SERVING SUGGESTIONS page 8), with the zucchini juices plus little olive oil or butter.
milk or cream as needed (2 table-
The first three suggestions here are spoons of butter, 3 tablespoons of
especially useful for ahead-of-time flour, 1 ½ cups of hot liquid).
preparation. Grated Zucchini and Spinach
Assembling. Fold the sauteed grated
zucchini into the sauce, taste, and Another slim-jim recipe, but you'd
correct seasoning. Turn it into a but- never realize it when eating this
Grated Zucchini Simmered in tered baking and serving dish, and happy mixture. Simmer the zucchini
Cream spread 3 to 4 tablespoons of grated in the vermouth and stock for several
Swiss cheese over the surface. minutes, just until tender. Remove to
Saute until the grated and squeezed a side dish, leaving the juices behind.
zucchini is almost tender. A few min- Baking-20 minutes at 400°F. About Blend into the juices 2 packages or
utes before serving, fold in ½ cup or 20 minutes before serving, set in the bunches of stemmed and washed
so of heavy cream, and simmer sev- upper third level of the preheated spinach leaves ( page 2 77) and boil
eral minutes, until the cream has 400°F oven a~d bake until bubbling several minutes, until just tender.
thickened and is almost absorbed. hot and the top has browned lightly. Remove the pan from heat. Blend
Fold with a little chopped fresh pars- 1½ tablespoons of cornstarch in a
ley-or tarragon-and serve. small bowl with an equal amount of
chicken stock; when smooth, blend it
OTHER VARIATIONS ON THE GRATED
ZUCCHINI THEME into the spinach and its cooking
juices. Fold in the zucchini, and
Cratin of Grated Zucchini # 1 Grated Zucchini with Onions · bring to the boil, folding the vege-
and Red Peppers tables and liquid together for 2 min-
Turn the creamed zucchini into a ut.es, to cook the starch and thicken
shallow baking and serving dish, and Zucchini, onions, and red peppers the sauce. Correct seasoning.
sprinkle 3 to 4 tablespoons of grated will go with just about any main
Swiss cheese over the surface. Several course, and you will note this dish
minutes before serving, set 3 to 4 can be fat-free. See page 157 for il-
inches under a hot broiler element to lustration with game hens.
warm through and brown the top
lightly. While the zucchini is steeping in salt,
puree 2 large cloves of garlic and
simmer them with 2 cups of sliced
onions in ½ cup each of white wine
and chicken broth. When tender, in
about 10 minutes, fold in the grated
and squeezed zucchini and 1 or 2
VARIATIONS
Saute of Julienned
Cucumbers
Saute of Spinach with Grated
Sauteed cucumbers go with almost Cucumbers
anything, from fish to fowl to good
red meat. They are particularly at- Substitute cucumbers for zucchini in
tracti ve with veal dishes, or fish or the preceding section.
chicken in cream or butter sauces,
where you want a simple accom-
Julienne of cucumbers
paniment.
Creamed Cucumbers
For 4 servings, julienne and season 2
CUCUMBERS large cucumbers as described in the Serve these with plain broiled or
Special Note. Shortly before serving, roast chicken, poached fish, or with
Cucumbers, although we tend to so the cucumbers will retain their veal chops. Saute the cucumbers
think of them as salad material, make texture, heat 2 tablespoons of butter briefly in 2 tablespoons of butter,
a delicious cooked vegetable with to bubbling in a 10-inch frying pan, fold in ½ cup of heavy cream, and
their tender flesh and subtle taste. add the cucumbers, and toss over boil over high heat until the cream
moderately high heat for 2 to 3 min- has reduced and thickened, then fold
utes, just until tender but still with a in chopped fresh dill or parsley.
slight crunch. Season to taste, toss
with a little minced fresh dill and/or
parsley, and serve as soon as possible.
SPECIAL NOTE
Preparing Cucumbers for lengthwise, and then into crosswise To Season Cucumbers
Cooking piec~s about 2 inches long. Finally, cut
these pieces into matchstick-size If you wish to accentuate the cucum-
Peel the cucumbers, halve them julienne-excellent knife practice, ber taste before cooking, toss the cut
lengthwise, and scoop out the seeds and the faster and neater you can do cucumbers in a bowl with a spri nkle
with the end of your vegetable peeler it, the more professional you are. of salt and droplets of wine vinegar
or a teaspoon. Depending on how However you cut them, you may cook to taste; a pinch of sugar will also
you want them to look , grate them or them the same way as in the upcoming help bring out the cucumber flavor.
cut them into wedges. Or for julienne recipe for julienned cucumbers. Let them steep 10 minutes or so;
matchsticks , halve the seeded halves drain before cooking.
BRAISED CELERY,
LEEKS, AND ENDIVES
S erve them warm as a vegetable,

or cold as an agreeable first
course-braised celery, leeks, and
endives are happy additions to any
table.
Dicing carrots and onions for mirepoix Quartering celery heads
SPECIAL NOTE
A buttered rectangular or oval flame-
Mirepoix: Diced Aromatic
proof baking-serving dish 2 inches deep,
Vegetables
and large enough to hold the celery in
For flavoring sauces, meats, and
vegetables one crowded layer; buttered wax paper
and foil to cover the celery while baking
The mirepoix is one of fine cooking's
great inspirations, an all-purpose fla- Preparing the celery for cooking. Keep-
vor-enhancer made of finely diced ing the form of the heads intact, re-
and sautecd carrots and onions, and move all tough outer stalks, leaving
Dicing onions
often celery and ham. Used in just those you judge will be tender
sauces, with braised vegetables like ~u when cooked-no tough strings to
m
111 MASTER RECIPE them, in other words. Cut off the
celery, or with chicken breasts
poached in butter, it imparts that real tops to make the heads about 8 inches
"je ne sais quoi" of sophistication to Braised Celery, Mirepoix long; trim the roots, being careful
anything it is associated with. You not to detach the stalks. Slice the
may want to triple or quadruple the Simmering celery in broth and the heads lengthwise into halves, thirds,
recipe, since a mirepoix keeps nicely classic aromatic vegetable mixture or quarters (see illustration), depend-
in the freezer. known as a mirepoix gives that other- mg on size.
wise mild vegetable a marvelous fla-
For ¼ to ½ cup vor. Once cooked, as you will see Assembling the baking dish. Spread half
from the variations to come, you can the mirepoix vegetables in the baking
1/4 cup each finely diced onions and then serve it hot with a sauce made dish, arrange the celery cut side up
carrots, and celery, too, if you from the cooking juices, or au gra- over them, salt lightly, and spread
wish tin, or cold as a salad or hors the rest of the mirepoix over the cel-
2 Tbs butter d'oeuvre. ery. Pour in enough stock to come 1/3
1/s tsp thyme of the way up the celery, and lay over
¼ cup diced boiled ham, optional For 6 servings it the buttered wax paper.
In a small covered saucepan, cook the ¼ cup mirepoix (see Special Note)
Braising-30 to 40 minutes. Bring to
di ced vegetables slowly in the butter, Salt and freshly ground pepper
the simmer on top of the stove, cover
adding the thyme and optional diced 2 or 3 celery hearts- 1/3 to½ head
closely with foil, and cook either on
ham after 5 minutes; continue for an- per person, depending on size
other few minutes , until the vege- 1 cup or more chicken broth
(continued)
tables are tender but not browned .
Season lightly to taste, and set aside.
Braised Celery, Mirepoix (continued)
top of the stove or in a 3 5 0°F oven

for 3 O to 40 minutes or longer, bast-
ing fairly frequently with the liquid
in the dish. The celery is done when
it is very tender but still holds its
shape.
Optional for added flavor. Let the cel-

ery cool 2 0 to 3 0 minutes in the
cooking liquid, basting frequently.
To serve cold. See the suggestions on

page 300.
To serve hot. This would go with al-

most any main course, especially
when you want something not too
rich. Or it could well be a first
course.
Splitting leeks
Bring the braised celery to the sim-
mer in its dish, basting several times.
For 6 servings Braising. Following the general pro-
Remove the celery to a hot platter
cedure in the master recipe, arrange
and keep warm while rapidly boiling 6 large or 12 small leeks ( 1 or 2 per
the leeks in a buttered baking dish
down the cooking liquid until it is al- person)
(cut side down if they are halved).
most syrupy. Correct seasoning and, Water or chicken broth
Pour in water or broth to come half-
if you wish, remove from heat and Salt and freshly ground pepper
way up the leeks, salt lightly, and dot
swirl in 2 to 3 tablespoons of butter, 2 or more Tbs butter
with a tablespoon or so of butter.
a tablespoon at a time. Spoon the liq-
Cover with buttered wax paper and
uid over the celery, sprinkle with Preparing the leeks for cooking. Trim
foil, and either simmer 15 to 20
chopped parsley, and serve. the root ends of the leeks, being care-
minutes on top of the stove, basting
ful to keep the leaves attached. Re-
with the braising liquid several
move any wilted leaves, and cut off
times, or bake 3 0 to 40 minutes in a
the tops to leave the leeks 6 to 7
Braised Leeks 350°F oven.
inches long. Slit each lengthwise
down to where the white begins (see
Leeks have so much of their own To serve hot. Boil down the cooking
illustration); give the leek a quarter
wonderful flavor that you need no juices and enrich with butter, if you
turn and slit again. Wash very thor-
aromatic enhancers such as the mire- wish, as described in the master rec-
oughly under cold running water,
poix braised with the preceding cel- ipe for braised celery.
spreading each leaf apart to rinse off
ery. Serve leeks with steaks, chops, all dirt and grit. If the leeks are fat,
roasts-in fact with almost any main cut them in half lengthwise.
course where you want an uncompli-
cated accompaniment. You can also
serve them au gratin, or cold, as sug-
gested farther on.
m
111 MASTER RECIPE
Braised Endives
Cooked endives are far more interest-

ing than raw endives in a salad.
Their slight bitterness combined with
a buttery braise makes them one of
the great accompaniments to roast
veal, chicken, and turkey. N ow that
we are raising our own in this coun-
try, let us hope they may become less
of a luxury item.
Buying. Details on buying and stor-

ing endives are in the salad chapter
on page 34 8.
Cooking. Give yourself plenty of

time, since braised endives may be
cooked even a day or two ahead , and
they are a true braise-they are Braised endives
cooked not only until tender but ,
more important , until there has been Preparing the endives for cooking.
a real exchange between the buttery Trim the root ends of the endives,
lemony braising juices and the en- being careful that the leaves remain
dives themselves. That is the point at attached . Remove any wilted leaves
which they are unique, and truly and cut out any brown portions.
delicious. Wash the endives under cold running
water.
For 6 servings
12 endives-fresh, firm, and fat, all Braising- I ½ to 2 hours. Arrange

the same size, all creamy white, the endives in the casserole, adding
and all neatly closed at the the salt , water, lemon juice, and but-
pointed tip end ter. Cover and boil slowly on top of
¼ tsp salt, plus a little more, if the stove for about 2 0 minutes, or
needed until the vegetables are fairly tender
½ cup water and the liquid has been reduced by
½ Tbs freshly squeezed lemon juice, half. (You can now, or later on, prob-
plus a little more if needed ably push the endives gently together
2 to 4 Tbs butter, cut into slices into one layer.) Either cover and cook
Endives ready for braising
2 to 3 Tbs chopped fresh parsley, slowly on top of the stove; or lay but-
optional tered wax paper over the endives,
cover, and bake in a 325°F oven . pale golden color and almost all the
SPEC IAL EQUIPMEN T SU GG ESTED : Taste and correct seasoning halfway liquid will have evaporated . Serve as
A covered flam eproof stain-resistant cas- through. is , sprinkled with parsley.
serole or heavy saucepan just large
enough to hold the endives in 2 layers When are they done? When done, the *Ahead-of-time note: May be cooked
vegetables should be a very tender ahead and reheated.
ANOTHER SERVING SUGGESTION
Endives Sauteed in Butter
This is an especially attractive way to

serve braised endives, although it
does raise the calorie count to some
extent.
The moment before serving the pre-

ceding braised endives, film a no-
stick frying pan with 1/i6 inch of clar-
ified butter and heat to very hot but
not browning. Lay in the endives and
saute a moment or so on each side to
brown, turning carefully so as to dis-
turb the leaves as little as possible.
Serve with a sprinkling of parsley.
VARIATIONS
Celery Victor
Braised Celery and Leeks

Served Cold Celery Victor The garnish
2 Tbs chopped capers
To serve either braised leeks or This celebrated celery was created by 3 Tbs chopped fresh parsley
braised celery cold, you can simply Chef Victor Hirtzler, of the St. 1 hard-boiled egg, chopped
turn the braising juices into a vinai- Francis Hotel in San Francisco, way Salt and freshly ground pepper
grette, using the directions for the back in the early part of this century. 12 strips of canned red pimiento
following Celery Victor, then pour As with most historic dishes, there 12 fine fresh flat anchovy fillets
the sauce over the vegetables, are many versions. Here is my favor- packed in olive oil
sprinkle with parsley, and serve . But ite, but see also the simpler cooking
here is that famous celery dish. method and the green tapenade gar- Preliminaries. Remove the celery it-
nish in the variation that follows. self to a platter, and drain the celery
braising juices into a small pan.
For 6 servings Gently squeeze out excess liquid from
the celery and add it to the rest. Ar-
The master recipe for braised celery
range the celery neatly in one layer,
(page 297)
cut side up. Boil the cooking liquid
Celery vinaigrette sauce down until almost syrupy.
The celery braising juices
2 Tbs wine vinegar The celery v inaigrette. Blend into the
1 Tbs Dijon-style prepared mustard concentrated celery juices the wine
1 Tbs finely minced shallots or vinegar, mustard, and shallots or
scallions
113 to ½ cup olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper .
scallions. Whisk in the oil by drop- Spoon tapenade down the central sec-
lets. Season carefully with salt and tion of the stalks, leaving the ends ex- SPECIAL NOTE
pepper; spoon over the celery. Let posed . Decorate attractively with
macerate 10 minutes, then tip the such items as sieved hard-boiled eggs Green Tapenade
platter and baste the celery with the and chopped parsley, stri ps of red pi-
sauce, repeating several times. miento, and more green-ripe olives. The classic tapenade is made with
black olives, and it's good to have a
*Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared change with green . This pungent
~everal hours in advance. Cover and sauce is delicious with cold vege-
OTHER VARIATIONS FOR BRAISED
refrigerate, but bring to room tem- VEGETA BLES tables, especially braised celery, but
perature before proceeding, to decon- can also be tossed with hot or cold
geal the oil. Celery or Leeks au Gratin pasta, or be a filling for hard-boiled
eggs, or a spread for the hard-toasted
Garnishing and serving. Just before For a substantial dish to go with, for rounds of French bread on page 3 53.
serving, toss together the chopped ca- instance, plain broiled or grilled
pers, parsley, and hard-boiled egg, meats, poultry, or fish, gratine the For about 2/3 cup
. seasoning to taste with salt and pep- preceding cooked celery hearts or the 2 large cloves of garlic, pureed
per. Strew this over the central por- leeks on page 2 9 8 in a cheese sauce. 1 ½ cups pitted green-ripe olives
tions of the celery, and decorate with Follow the gratin of cauliflower rec- 6 fine fresh flat anchovy fillets
crossed ~trips of red pimiento and ipe on page 2 7 3, using a combination packed in oil
anchovies. of celery- or leek-cooking juices and 2 Tbs capers
milk for the sauce. 2 Tbs olive oil
¼ cup lightly pressed down parsley
VARIATION sprigs
Pinches of thyme and freshly ground
A Green T apenade of Celery Braised Endives au Gratin, pepper
Hearts with Ham ½ Tbs brandy
Celery hearts are poached in a lemon Endives gratineed in cheese sauce Green tapenade. Puree the listed in-
broth and topped with green tape- with ham make a perfect little main gredients in a food processor or elec-
nade-a puree of green-ripe olives, course for a luncheon or supper. Ac- tric blender, and taste carefu lly for
herbs, and garlic . company it with a green salad and a seasoning. Add more of any or all of
chilled white wine, like a French the ingredients, as you see fit.
Poaching the celery. Prepare the celery Chablis, or a sauvignon.
hearts as described in the master rec-
ipe, but rather than braising them, Make the cheese sauce as described,
simmer in lightly salted water to using all milk since there will be few
cover and the juice of 1 lemon-30 if any endive braising juices. Spoon a
to 40 minutes, until perfectly tender.· thin layer of the sauce in the bottom
Let steep 20 minutes in the cooking of a shallow lightly buttered baking-
liquid. Drain on a clean towel and serving dish . Wrap each endive in a
gently press out excess liquid. slice of ham and arrange smooth side
up in the dish. Spoon the rest of the
Assembly. Arrange the celery cut side sauce over, and sprinkle with the re-
up on a platter or individual plates . maining cheese . Bake about 2 5 min-
utes in the upper third level of a
preheated 425°F oven.
STUFFED VEGETABLES
A stuffing gives any vegetable

more importance at the table.
In fact, a stuffed vegetable may well
serve as a first course, or even be the
main course for a light meal. In most
cases here, so that it will taste of it-
self, the vegetable is stuffed with its
own trimmings, plus some additional
flavorings, and a binder of some sort.
mMASTER RECIPE
Stuffed Onions
A fragrant big stuffed onion is a most

edible object all by itself, and it is an
attractive accompaniment to a plain Stuffed Onion
roast chicken, veal, or turkey, as well
as to chops, steaks, and hamburgers.
The trick for success is to hollow the 2 Tbs fresh crumbs from home-
onions and blanch them before stuff- made style white bread
ing and baking them. Otherwise they ½ cup dry white French vermouth
take hours to cook and may well burst or dry white wine
out of their shells before they are ½ to 1 cup beef stock or chicken
done. broth
For 6 large onions Peeling, coring, and blanching the on-

ions. One at a time, shave off the
6 large firm fresh perfect onions at pointed and root ends of the onions,
least 3 inches in diameter Coring an onion
being careful to keep the onion layers
A saucepan of boiling water, for attached to the root. For easy peeling,
peeling drop them one or two at a time for
A large kettle of boiling salted water, exactly 1 minute into the saucepan of
for blanching boiling water; carefully remove the
Melted butter and/or oil skin. With a sharp knife, cut a cone-
Butter, for greasing the baking pan shaped core out of the top (not root)
Salt and freshly ground pepper end of the onion, and reserve all cut-
1½ to 2 cups stuffing (see recipe tings. Then, being careful not to
following, or see other suggestions make the sides and bottom too thin-
starting on page 184) they should be about 3/s inch thick-
use a melon baller to dig circular sec-
Stuffing the onion
tions out of the onion to form a cup
of the interior. Drop the onion cups
into the kettle of boiling salted water An Onion Stuffing STUFFED CABBAGE,
and boil slowly 10 to 15 minutes; For onions and other vegetables WHOLE AND IN PARTS
they should be just tender but they
must still hold their shape. Drain up- The following is a combination of What to do with a lingering party
side down in a colander. chopped onion, from their own inte- ham ? Put it to work in stuffed cab-
riors if it's for stuffed onions, plus a bage leaves, and braise them in a sa-
Stuffing the onions. Butter or oil the little cooked rice, cheese, cream, and vory tomato sauce.
outside of the onion cups and arrange herbs. If the stuffing is for other veg-
cup side up in a heavily buttered etables, like zucchini, add their
flameproof baking dish about 3 chopped interiors and saute with the
SPECIAL N OTE
inches deep and just large enough to on10n.
hold them in one layer. Season the in-
To Remove the Leaves from
side of the cups lightly with salt and For about 1 ½ cups
pepper, and fill with the stuffing,
a Hard-Headed Cabbage
1 cup or so minced onions
heaping it into a ½-inch dome. Top
Butter as needed You may core a whole head of cab-
each with a teaspoon of bread crumbs
1 cup cooked rice bage and drop it into a large kettle of
and a drizzle of melted butter. P our
¼ cup heavy cream boiling water, then boil until the out-
the wine around the onions, and
3 to 4 Tbs grated Swiss cheese side leaves loosen and can be nudged
enough broth to come a third of the
2 to 4 Tbs fresh crumbs from off, continuing to boil as they gradu-
way up.
nonsweet homemade type white ally loosen. Or here's an easier
bread method.
Baking-about 1 ½ hours at 3 75°F.
¼ cup minced fresh parsley
Bring to the simmer on top of the
Fresh or dried tarragon, or fresh Freez e it first. Cut out the core of the
stove. Bake uncovered in the lower
basil cabbage using a short stout knife, and
middle level of the preheated oven ,
Salt and freshly ground pepper making a cone-shaped cut about 2
maintaining the liquid at a slow sim-
inches deep. Place the cabbage in the
mer and basting the onions several
Cook the minced onions slowly in 2 freezer, as is, for 24 hours. The
times with the liquid in the dish .
tablespoons of butter in a covered pan leaves will then be loose, but since
They are done when a knife pierces
until very tender; uncover pan and they need blanching anyway, drop the
them easily, but they must keep their
stir over moderately high heat to whole cabbage directly from the
shape. (The outside layer will be
brown very lightly. Blend in the rice, freezer into a large kettle of boiling
slightly tough, but the insides deli-
cream, cheese, and 2 tablespoons of water. Separate the leaves from the
ciously tender.)
the bread crumbs, adding a few more head one by one with 2 long-handled
crumbs if the mixture is too soft for spoons-they come off easily. Let the
*Ahead-of-time note: The onions may
easy stuffing. Stir in the parsley and leaves boil a moment, then refresh
be baked in advance, and reheated
other herb; season carefully to taste. them in a bowl of cold water. Drain
later; they are also good served cold.
on a towel, and they are ready to
work with.
basting occasionally, for about 3 0

minutes, or until the cabbage is ten-
der. Taste and correct seasoning.
*Ahead-of-time note: May be braised

in advance, and reheated.
Suggested accompaniments: navy beans,

rice, boiled potatoes, or just good
French bread-and a simple red
wme.
Stuffed Whole Braised

Cabbage
There is always something quite

splendid about a whole stuffed cab-
bage. Perhaps it is the incredulity of
those who have never seen one be-
Braised Cabbage Rolls fore. Or it could be the enticing
aroma, or the anticipation of what in
iii
Ill MASTER RECIPE SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: the world they've put in the stuffing.
A food processor; a chicken fryer or For me, it is the enjoyment of look-
Braised Cabbage Rolls electric frying pan ing at that handsome green cabbage,
and knowing that it was taken apart
Since these make good eating either Filling the cabbage leaves. Remove the leaf by leaf and cunningly. re-formed
hot or cold, you may wish to make tough part of the central stem from with layers of stuffing; now it is just
more than you need for one meal. the lower parts of the cabbage leaves, innocently sitting there, ready for
as necessary. Spread 1 leaf (or several eating.
For 12 rolls, serving 6 small leaves combined) cupped side
up on your work surface; divide the You will note I have called for extra
The blanched leaves from an 8-inch cabbage leaves here, since the origi-
filling into 12 portions. Spread a cyl-
head of cabbage (see Special Note nal, after its long braising, needs
inder of filling onto each leaf and roll
on removing the leaves, page 303) perking up for its grand entrance.
up into a sausage shape, enclosing the
About 3 cups of stuffing (see
filling completely.
suggestions on page 184; the Ham For 6 to 8 servings
and Bread Crumb Stuffing is
Braising. Set the chicken fryer over The blanched leaves of a 3-pound
recommended)
moderate heat, with the butter, add cabbage (see Special Note on
2 Tbs butter
the onions, and saute for 5 to 6 min- page 303)
1 cup sliced onions
utes, until limp and translucent. Ar- 6 beautifully green large leaves from
range the cabbage rolls best side up another cabbage, blanched until
3½ cups combined fresh tomatoes,
in a single layer over the onions. Sea- just tender, refreshed in cold
peeled, seeded, and juiced, and
son lightly with salt and pepper, pour water, drained, and reserved
strained canned Italian plum
the tomatoes over them, and bury the 6 cups of stuffing: either one or two
tomatoes
bay leaves in the pan. Bring to the
2 imported bay leaves
simmer, cover, and simmer slowly,
from the suggestions starting on Braising-2½ hours at 400°F. Top

page 184-the Bulgur Stuffing with the round of foil and the lid,
and the Mushroom Duxelles and set in the middle level of the pre-
Stuffing minus the chicken would heated oven. The cabbage is done in
make a grand vegetarian meal about 2 ½ hours, at an internal tem-
2 cups sliced onions perature of 160°F.
1 cup sliced carrots
2 Tbs butter Sauce and serving. Drain the cooking
Seasonings: salt, freshly ground liquid out of the braising bowl into a
pepper, fresh lemon juice, and saucepan, and boil down to about ½
thyme cup. Pour in the tomato sauce and
About 2 cups of liquid: chicken bring to the simmer. U nmold the
stock; or the soaking liquid from cabbage onto a hot serving dish-it
bulgur and/or mushrooms if you will be a fragrant gray-green. Cover
are using either, lightly salted with the reserved blanched green
2 cups excellent tomato sauce (page cabbage leaves, and surround with a
358), warmed spoonful or two of the tomato sauce,
Stuffed Whole Braised Cabbage
A roundish-bottomed 3 -quart stainless
bowl with top diameter of about 8
inches; a round of buttered foil; a lid of
some sort; an instant meat thermometer
The braising base. Saute the sliced on-

ions and carrots 5 minutes in the but-
ter. Season with salt, pepper, lemon
juice, and thyme, and arrange them
in the bottom of the 3-quart bowl.
I . Lining bowl with blanched cabbage leaves 3. Adding the liquid
Assembling the cabbage. Line the bot-
tom and sides of the bowl with the
largest leaves, stems up and curved
sides against the bowl as illustrated,
step 1. Spread on a layer of stuffing,
and cover with a layer of leaves.
Spread on a thin layer of stuffing (the

second stuffing if you are using two),
and cover with another layer of
leaves, step 2. Continue alternating
stuffing and leaves, ending with a fi- 4. Decorating with blanched green leaves
2. Layering-in stuffing and leaves
nal layer of cabbage leaves. Pour the
chicken stock or vegetable liquid
over the cabbage, adding enough al- step 4. Turn the rest of the sauce into
most to cover it, step 3. a warm bowl. To serve, spoon a little
sauce onto a hot dinner plate and ar-
range a wedge of cabbage over it.
Stuffing. Divide the stuffing into 8

portions and mound into each tomato;
arrange the tomatoes in the baking
dish. Drizzle a little more oil over
the crumbs, if you wish.

in advance to this point.
Baking. Preheat the oven to 400°F.

About 20 minutes before serving,
bake in the upper third level until the
crumbs are lightly browned and the
tomatoes are hot through but still
hold their shape . Serve them soon,
since they risk a collapse if kept
warm.
VA RIATIO N
Assembling Stuffed Tomatoes Provenc;ale Tomatoes Stuffed with

Three Kernels
Stuffed Tomatoes
A rack for draining the tomatoes; a This unusual recipe for stuffed toma-
Proven~ale
#ghtly oiled baking dish that w ill hold toes-wheat berries, brown rice,
them barley, and cheese-is on page 339.
The slight acidity of the tomato
blends especially well with red meats,
Preparing the tomatoes for stuffing. Cut
and especially with roast lamb. In ad-
the tomatoes in half (not through the
dition, tomatoes Proven~ale are at-
stem). Gently squeeze them to re- Feta Peppers
tractive with brunch dishes such as
move excess juice; dig out the seeds Bell or chili peppers baked with cheese
omelettes or scrambled eggs. For this
with your little finger. Salt and pep-
easy recipe, stuff them in advance,
per the insides lightly and turn up- Halved or quartered fresh peppers
and bake them just before serving.
side down on a rack to drain while are stuffed with a cheese filling, and
you prepare the stuffing. baked to bubbling hot. Serve them as
For 8 tomato halves
a garnish for salads, or with roasts,
4 large fine firm ripe tomatoes The stuffing. Toss the bread crumbs steaks, or chops.
Salt and freshly ground pepper with the shallots or scallions, garlic,
½ cup lightly pressed down crumbs parsley, and salt and pepper to taste, For 6 servings
from fresh homemade type white blending in droplets of olive oil as
2 slender thin-skinned mild green
bread you do so.
chili peppers about 5 inches long,
or 2 bell peppers
¼ cup minced fresh parsley
3 to 4 Tbs olive oil


Bake in the upper third level of the
preheated oven until slightly puffed
and lightly browned. They may be
kept warm for 15 to 2 0 minutes be-
fore serving, but the puff will deflate
somewhat.
Stuffed and Baked Winter

Squash
Is there never enough stuffing in the

turkey? Make a large batch, then,
and bake it in a beautiful big squash
to give everyone plenty of stuffing
plus another vegetable.
The squash and the cooking directions.

This is the general idea, whatever the
size of your winter squash: halve the
squash and scrape out all seeds and
stringy bits. Rub the inside with but-
ter and seasonings. Bake in the lower
third level of a preheated 400°F oven
until the squash flesh is soft and
edible but the squash still holds its
shape-probably an hour or more,
and you ·can do this well in advance.
Reheat it again in the oven for 10
minutes or so, fill it with turkey stuff-
Feta Peppers
ing or whatever else you choose (stuff-
ings start on page 184), and bake
The.filling Preparing the peppers. Make boat again ½ hour or so (longer if the
¼ pound ( ½ cup) feta cheese or goat shapes out of the peppers so that you stuffing is chilled), basting 2 or 3
cheese can stuff them-depending on their times with a spoonful of turkey (or
1/3 cup sour cream size and shape, either halve or quar- any other) roasting juices, or with a
1 egg yolk ter them lengthwise; remove the little chicken stock and melted butter.
Salt and freshly ground pepper seeds and ribs. Blend the filling in- Scoop up some of the tender squash
Worcestershire sauce gredients with a mixing fork and sea- flesh with each serving of stuffing.
Hot pepper sauce son highly to taste. Divide it among
the peppers, and lay them in an oiled
pan.
Stuffed Pattypan Squash
Pattypans, those round, top-knotted

green squashes, are available in many
markets all year round; if yours does
not carry them, make loud noises so
that they do. Pattypans are much bet-
ter for stuffing, I think, than zuc-
chini, and the simple formula here
goes nicely with fish or chicken, or as
a first course, either hot or cold.
For 4 to 8 servings
8 pattypans, about 3 inches in

diameter
The stuffing
1½ cups minced onions
½ cup dry white French vermouth
or dry white wine
1 to 2 Tbs butter
1 "large" egg
½ cup cream cheese, or 1/3 cup sour
cream
½ cup lightly pressed down crumbs
from fresh homemade type white
bread
A pinch of thyme
¼ cup grated Swiss cheese

1 cup, more or less, chicken broth

A melon baller for scooping the squash;
a 10-inch frying pan for the stuffing; a Stuffed Pattypan Squash
lightly buttered shallow baking dish to
hold the pattypans comfortably in 1
out of the blossom end with a small flesh, and boil slowly to evaporate
layer
knife, leaving ¼ inch of flesh all liquid almost completely. Let cool
around; scoop out the pulp with the briefly; blend in the egg, cheese, and
Preparing the squash. Drop the patty-
melon baller. bread crumbs. Season to taste with
pans as is into a kettle of boiling
salt, pepper, and thyme.
salted water and blanch (boil) them
The stuffing. Chop up the removed
10 to 15 minutes, or until they just
flesh with its skin. To remove and re- Stuffing the pattypans. Divide the stuff-
yield to pressure. Trim off and dis-
serve excess juice, twist the flesh hard ing into 8 portions, and mound it in
card the stems at one end and the
in the corner of a towel held over a the pattypans; top each with a pinch
blossom buttons at the other. To
bowl. Simmer the minced onions in of grated cheese. Arrange them in
make a cup for stuffing, cut a core
the vermouth 7 to 8 minutes, until
tender; add the butter and pattypan
one layer in the baking dish, and peelings; twist these in a corner of the
pour around them ¼ inch of chicken towel held over a bowl to extract and
broth. reserve their juices.
*Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared The stuffing. Saute the shallots or scal-
ahead to this point. lions briefly in 3 tablespoons of but-
ter just until tender; add the minced
Baking-about 15 minutes at 400°F. and squeezed zucchini pieces and stir
Bake in the upper third level of the several minutes over high heat to
preheated oven, basting several times cook them through and evaporate
Zucchini blossoms and blossoms attached to baby
with the liquid in the pan, until the zucchini
their moisture. Blend in several
squash are well heated through and tablespoons of crumbs, just enough to
the cheese has browned lightly-they make a mass that holds its shape
may be kept warm for 15 to 20 min- lightly, for stuffing. Season carefully
utes before serving. to taste with salt and pepper-you
should have about 1½ cups, or 2
tablespoons per zucchini flower.
Stuffed Zucchini Blossoms Stuffing the zucchini flowers. Divide the

stuffing into 12 portions; slit the flow-
If you are a gardener feeling guilty ers down their sides, insert the stuff-
about your overabundant zucchini, ing with a teaspoon, step 2, and fold
catch them while still babies, 5 inches I . Whittling the zucchini the flower around it. Smear a table-
long and when the flowers are at- spoon of butter in the large frying
tached (see illustration). Trim them, pan, and arrange the zucchini in it,
stuff the flowers, and braise them in a in a single, closely packed layer. Salt
light butter sauce. Incidentally, if you lightly, and pour in the reserved zuc-
can't grow them, you may well find chini juices plus enough water to
these flowering zucchini in one of the make 3/s inch of liquid in the pan.
specialty vegetable markets during
the season. *Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared
This is a pure and lovely dish, worth
serving alone as a first course-no Cooking and serving. Bring to the boil
cream here, but a certain amount of 2 . Stuffing the blossoms
on top of the stove, cover, and boil
butter. slowly for several minutes, until the
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: zucchini are barely tender when
For 4 to 6 servings A towel, for squeezing zucchini pieces; a pierced with a small knife. Carefully
smallish frying pan, for the stuffing; a transfer to a hot platter or plates; rap-
12 baby zucchini no longer than 5
12-inch frying pan with cover, for final idly boil down the cooking juices un-
inches, flowf:rs attached
cooking til syrupy. Remove from heat, swirl
3 Tbs finely minced shallots or
in an additional tablespoon or two of
scallions
Preparing the zucchini. Cut off the butter, pour over the zucchini, and
4 to 6 Tbs butter
zucchini 2 inches below the flower serve.
1/3 cup lightly pressed down crumbs
ends. Whittle down the remaining
from fresh homemade type white
part to a fat point, step 1, leaving a
bread
collar of green at the flower end.
Mince the remaining zucchini pieces
A little water, as needed
very fine along with all shavings and
u~
m
Ill MASTER RECIPE
OTHER VEGETABLES
SPECIAL NOTE
Whole Cooked Chestnuts
C hestnuts do not fit into a cate-

gory: they have their own
special ways, as do prune and apple
Preparing Chestnuts for
Cooking Whole For 48 chestnuts, serving 6 to 8
48 peeled chestnuts (see Special

garnishes, gnocchi, mushrooms, Like many a treat, they do require
Note on this page)
chutneys, and baked whole onions. time, especially when you want them
1 imported bay leaf
to remain whole. First you must strip
1 medium onion
off the shiny brown outer shell, then
1 large celery stalk, cut into several
peel, poke, and scrape off the thin
pieces
CHESTNUTS brownish covering skin.
3 or more cups beef or chicken stock
Chestnuts, with their own subtle fla- Removing the shells and inner skin. Cut
vor and softly chewy texture, go a strip of shell off the outside curve
Place the chestnuts in a saucepan with
beautifully with turkey, goose, and of each chestnut, step 1. Cover with
the bay leaf, onion, celery, and
duck. cold water in a saucepan and boil 1
enough stock to cover them by ½
minute. Set the pan aside.
inch. Season lightly to taste, and
bring to the simmer. Cover partially,
Remove 3 at a time from the hot
and simmer slowly-watch that the
Buying and storing. Chestnut water; strip off the outer shells. Peel
liquid does not boil and disintegrate
season is in the late fall and early and scrape off the covering brown
the chestnuts. Timing: about 40 min-
winter. Buy shiny, heavy-feeling skin, step 2. Some nuts will refuse to
utes, or until the chestnuts are tender
nuts, and if you are not cooking them peel; heat and try again.
but hold their shape.
soon, store them loosely in a cool,
dry place. They will keep for several *Ahead-of-time note: May be cooked
weeks, but use them while they still in advance. Refrigerate in their cook-
feel full and heavy. ing liquid.
Amounts. A pound (or 35 to 40 VARIATIO N
whole chestnuts) makes 2½ cups of

peeled chestnuts. Chestnuts in Stuffings
Drain the chestnuts (reserve the liq-

uid for sauce or soup) and use them
as is in any stuffing recipe.
2. Peeling inner skin off blanched nuts

JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK VEGETABLES 3Il
Braised Chestnuts a food processor or a vegetable mill

and adding a little of their cooking SPECIAL f\(OTE
Serve these alone as a vegetable in juices as needed . Turn the puree into
place of potatoes or another starchy a saucepan and stir over moderately Mushroom Amounts
vegetable. I don't know why these are high heat to evaporate excess mois-
called ((braised"; technically they are ture-the puree should be thick 1 quart of whole mushrooms = ½
not, but the term is more appetizing enough to hold its shape softly in a pound
than ((buttered chestnuts." spoon. Beat in butter and seasonings 1 quart of sliced or quartered mush-
to taste. rooms = 1½ to 1 ½ cups sauteed
Boil down the cooking liquid in a 10- 1 quart of fresh mushrooms = ½
inch frying pan until almost syrupy, cup mushroom duxelles (sauteed
add the preceding cooked chestnuts diced mushrooms)
and reheat through, then fold and MUSHROOMS
toss gently with several tablespoons
of butter to glaze them. Here is a miscellaneous collect10n of To wash or not to wash. If the
techniques for cultivated mushrooms, mushrooms are clearly clean with no
so often called for in good cooking. separation of cap from stem and no
It is said that mushrooms contain a trace of sand, either dust them with a
VARIATION
natural MSG, or taste enhancer, very soft brush or rub gently with a
which is undoubtedly why they are so towel. But if there is the slightest
Braised Chestnuts with
often paired with chicken, veal, and doubt, wash them: drop them into a
Brussels Sprouts fish dishes as a garnish or an large bowl of cold water, swish them
accompaniment. about for 4 to 5 seconds , then lift
One of the good ways to serve whole
chestnuts is to contrast them with the them out with your hands to a
distinctive taste and slight crunch of colander, leaving any sand behind. If
perfectly cooked fresh Brussels more than a few grains of sand
Buying and storing cultivated remain in the bowl, repeat the
sprouts. Fold the preceding braised
mushrooms. The caps should be process. Pat them dry in a towel.
chestnuts with the buttered Brussels
firm and dry, and should look fresh
sprouts on page 274-3 or 4 of each
with no bruised spots, the stems fresh
would be enough per serving.
and firm. Mushrooms will keep in
the refrigerator a day or so, loosely
packed in paper towels and stored in
Chestnut Puree a plastic bag.
A puree of chestnuts, with its won-

derfully rich, almost sweet taste, goes
beautifully with duck, goose, turkey, Trimming. Just before cooking,
and pork-such as suckling pig. And shave the ends off the stems to reach
a puree is much easier to make than the clean flesh. If your recipe calls
whole chestnuts. You still have to peel for mushroom caps, cut the stems off
them, and you will need more chest- close to the bottom of the caps.
nuts for a puree, but you don't have Whatever their use, if there is a
to worry when they break apart. separation between cap and stem,
break off the stem where it attaches
For 6 servings, puree the cooked inside the cap, so that you can wash
chestnuts in the master recipe-using out any grit lodged there.
Simmered Mushroom Caps Broiled Mushroom Caps

SPECIAL NOTE
You may want these as the garnish, Use these as a garnish for steaks or in
Cutting and Slicing for instance, to a fish platter or an as- a vegetable combination. You might
Mushrooms pic , or to accompany other vege- fill the broiled caps with a Bearnaise
tables. T hey should cook with a little sauce, for instance, to accompany
QUARTERED MUSHROOM CAPS. Set a
lemon juice to stay pale in color, but roast tenderloin of beef in a glamor-
mushroom cap dome side up on your
be sure not to add too much-the ous way. These are definitely a last-
work surface. Cut it in half vertically;
amount of lemon must be effective, minute affair if they are to remain
cut the half in half or into thirds, de-
but its taste should be hardly evident. fresh and keep their shape.
pending on the size you wish .
SLICED MUSHROOM CAPS. set a mush- For 1 0 large mushroom caps, plain or For 6 large mushroom caps
room cap dome side up on your w ork fluted
6 mushroom caps 2½ inches across,
surface. Using your thumb as a pusher 10 mushroom caps 2½ inches stemmed, washed, and dried
at one end, and your knuckles as a guide across, trimmed and washed 2 Tbs clarified butter (page 139),
at the other, slice straight dow n, letting ¼ cup water clear melted butter, or olive oil
the side of the knife hit your knuckles as About 1 Tbs freshly squeezed lemon Salt
you push the mushroom forward after juice
each slice. Practice every chance you A big pinch of salt SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
get, in order to slice w ith speed and 1 Tbs butter, optional A pastry brush; a baking pan large
style. enough to hold the mushrooms in one
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: layer
DICED OR CHOPPED MUSHROOMS. You A stainless saucepan with cover
may use just the stems for this, and the Brush the mushroom caps inside and
food processor makes short w ork of it. Toss the mushroom caps in the sauce- out with the butter or oil, and ar-
Whether stems, caps, or whole, first pan with the water, lemon juice, and range them dome side up in the pan.
chop them roughly by hand, then chop salt. Add the optional butter, bring to Set them about 3 inches from the hot
in the machine 2 cups at a time w ith the simmer, cover, and simmer 2 to broiler element for 2 to 3 minutes,
half a dozen one-second on-off pulses. 3 minutes, just until softened. Keep until the domes are bubbling lightly.
the mushrooms in their cooking liq- Turn the mushrooms hollow side up,
MUSHROOM STEMS. Besides their use as
uid until shortly before you are to brush with a little more butter or oil,
chopped mushrooms, stems may also be salt lightly, and broil 2 to 3 minutes
serve them; include the liquid in
combined with quartered mushroom caps
whatever sauce you are making. more, until just tender when pierced
simply by cutting the stems into wedges. with a knife. Their delicious juices
will collect in their hollows.
Slicing and quartering mushrooms

VARIATION
Stuffed Mushroom Caps Sauteed Mushrooms
Stuffed mushrooms could well be a Sauteed mushrooms with omelettes, Sauteed Mushrooms,
first course-always difficult to think in chicken stews and beef ragouts- Persillade
of something new and different for sauteed mushrooms go almost every- With bread crumbs, garlic, and parsley
that. Or they could be part of an ele- where. An important point here is to
gant vegetable garnish or vegetable saute them so their juices do not ex- When sauteed with garlic and pars-
platter. Although you may use any ude, which is mostly a matter of high ley, mushrooms take on a distinctly
filling you wish, this is a sensible one heat and not too many mushrooms in new personality. Serve them with
since the chopped stems plus wine the pan at once. small roast or broiled birds, lamb
and seasonings fill the caps. chops, omelettes, or fried eggs.
For 2 to 2 ½ cups of sliced or quartered
For 6 large mushrooms mushrooms Saute the mushrooms as directed in
the preceding master recipe. When
½ cup mushroom duxelles made 1 Tbs butter they are done and almost beginning
with the stems (see Special Note 1 tsp light olive oil or cooking oil to brown, toss them with ½ cup of
on page 314), or another stuffing 6 cups fresh mushrooms, trimmed, fresh white bread crumbs, sauteing
of your choice washed, dried, and quartered or for a good moment more. Then toss
2 to 3 Tbs heavy cream sliced with a large clove of minced garlic
2 to 3 Tbs crumbs from fresh white ½ Tbs chopped shallot or scallion and a handful of chopped parsley.
bread Salt and freshly ground pepper
A big pinch of dried tarragon
Salt and freshly ground pepper SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
6 mushrooms 3½ inches across, A 10-inch frying pan, preferably no- SPECIAL NOTE
stemmed stick
2 to 3 Tbs clarified butter (page 139) Fluted Mushroom Caps
or clear melted butter Set the frying pan over high heat
2 Tbs finely grated Swiss cheese with the butter and oil. When the Hold a mushroom cap upright in
butter foam begins to subside, toss in your left hand. Grip a small, sharp
Assembling. Blend the duxelles in a the mushrooms. Toss frequently, knife tightly in your right hand with
bowl with the cream; add enough swirling the pan by its handle, for your right thumb resting on the cap,
bread crumbs to make a mass that several minutes, while the mush- as illustrated. Rotate the mushroom
will hold its shape softly in a spoon. rooms absorb the butter. In a minute toward you, starting at its crown; the
Season nicely to taste with tarragon, or two it reappears on their surface; mushroom cuts itself against the
salt, and pepper. Brush the caps with toss with the chopped shallot or scal- tightly held knife, making shallow
butter, and spoon the stuffing into the lion a moment or two more if you grooves in the cap.
cavities. Spread a pinch of grated wish them to brown lightly. Toss
cheese over the stuffing, and arrange with a sprinkling of salt and grinds
the mushrooms in the baking dish. of fresh pepper. If they are to be part
of a vegetable garnish, the sooner you
*Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared serve them, the better.
Baking. About 20 minutes before

serving, bake in the upper middle
level of a preheated 400°F oven, just
until the caps are tender when
pierced with a small knife. Fluting mushrooms
SPECIAL NOTE
Mushroom Duxelles
Finely diced sauteed mushrooms
Duxelles is a concentrate of mush-

room flavor, dry and compact-a
quick flavoring for sauces and stews,
also for stuffings and braises.
For about ½ cup
4 cups fresh mushrooms or

mushroom stems, diced
2 Tbs butter
2 Tbs Port or Madeira, optional
By handfuls, twist the mushrooms in

the corner of a towel to extract their
Whole baked onions
juices. Heat the butter to bubbling,
and saute the mushrooms in hot but-
ter over moderately high heat, stir- Big Baked Onions until they are definitely soft through-
ring and tossing, until the pieces out when pressed and when pricked
begin to separate from each other-3 Onions and hamburgers are a natural deeply with a small knife or skewer.
to 4 minutes. Add the shallots or combination, and a splendid way to
scallions and saute a moment more; do them is to find yourself great big Microwave baking: These do well
season to taste. Add the optional ones, and to bake them whole, skin in the microwave one or two at a
wine, letting it boil down rapidly to and all. time. I always prick them in several
nothing . For storage, pack into a places first, and count on 15 to 20
covered jar; refrigerate or freeze. For each 3-inch ½-pound onion, 1 per minutes-watch so that they do not
person overcook.
1 Tbs or so butter or sour cream

Serving. Keep them warm until ready
to serve. At serving time, slit the
Baking-I hour or more. Preheat the
tops and place a pat of butter or a
oven to 40 0°F, and place the onions
spoonful of sour cream in each. To
root side down ( pick onions that will
eat them, scoop the warm flesh out of
stand up straight) on a baking sheet
the surrounding skin.
lined with foil. Set them in the
middle level of the oven and bake
VARIATION Preparing the onions. Shave off the VEGETABLE MIXTURES

root and point ends of the onions,
Baked Onions Gratineed being careful to leave the onion layers BOTH A RAGOUT AND A
with Cheese attached together at the root. Quarter BO UQUET OF STEAMED
the onions lengthwise, but do not VEGETABLES,
1 or 2 onion halves per person peel them. TWO GREAT EGGPLANT
DI SHES,
The preceding baked whole onions
Salt and freshly ground pepper Preliminary baking. Place them skin A CRANBERRY CHUTNEY, AND
2 Tbs butter per onion

side down in an oiled pan, paint with A PRUNE AND AP PLE GARNISH
3 Tbs grated Swiss or Parmesan olive oil, and sprinkle lightly with
salt. Cover with foil and bake in the Here is a motley crew that defies the
cheese per onion
middle level of a 3 5 0°F oven for categories of the grand design, start-
about 3 0 minutes, or until tender ing out with a versatile ragout of
When the onions are tender, cut them
when pierced. mixed vegetables.
in half through the roots. Salt and
pepper the flesh side of each half,
Final baking. Uncover, paint with
spread on a tablespoon of butter and
1½ tablespoons of cheese. About 15 more oil, and sprinkle each quarter
minutes before serving, set the halves with a few drops of red-wine vine-
gar. Continue baking 40 to 60 min-
flesh side up and return to the upper
third level of a 400°F oven to reheat utes more, turning the onions onto
one side, then the other, as they
and to brown the cheese lightly.
brown lightly, and baste with the oil
in the pan.
Caramelized Onion *Ahead-of-time note: May be baked in

Quarters advance and reheated. The onions are A Vegetable Ragout
also good cold, with cold meats and
This attractive way to do onions is poultry.
A Vegetable Ragout
one suggested by my colleague Nancy Free-form saute of mixed vegetables
Barr when we were doing our articles
for Parade magazine. It takes more When you are not in the mood for an
attention than big baked whole on- elaborate dinner, this informal recipe
ic;ms, but the results are unusual and encourages you to saute or wok at
delicious . Serve them with steaks, will, all in one pan. For a meatless
chops, broiled chicken, or fish (see meal, as an example, omit the sau-
illustration page 157) . sages suggested here, or, if you are in
a carnivorous state, add bacon or ham
For 6 servings, 2 onion quarters per or chicken livers. Count on one or
person two of each vegetable per person, and
3 big ½-pound onions 3 inches in start with those that take the longest
diameter to cook. The following is just a
3 Tbs or more good olive oil suggestion.
Salt
( continued)
1 Tbs or so red-wine vinegar
A Vegetable Ragout ( continued) lightly with salt, pepper, and herbs; A Bouquet of Steamed
toss in the garlic and the browned Vegetables
For 6 servings sausage pieces. A savory group to serve with a boiled
dinner
6 to 9 pork breakfast sausages
1 head of garlic, with large cloves if Continuing the cooking. After the veg-
etables have cooked 10 minutes or so, Here you boil-steam the leeks in
possible
pour in a ¼-inch layer of chicken chicken broth, then use that aromatic
6 each: medium "boiling" potatoes,
broth. Season lightly, cover, and sim- liquid to baste and steam first the cab-
carrots, and turnips
mer slowly until the vegetables are bage, then the carrots. Shortly before
Olive oil or fresh peanut oil, optional
almost tender. Meanwhiie, trim, serving, they all warm up together in
wash, and quarter the mushrooms; their heady broth, while the potatoes
A good pinch of thyme or mixed
quarter and seed the pepper, and slice steam by themselves.
dried herbs
1 cup or so chicken broth crosswise. Add them to the pan when
the simmering vegetables are ready. For 6 servings, 1 or 2 of each vegetable
8 to 10 fresh mushrooms
Baste and turn the vegetables; cover per person
1 large green or red bell pepper, or
half of each and cook another few minutes.
6 medium leeks
A small handful of fresh parsley, Salt
chopped *Ahead-of-time note: May be com- 3 to 4 cups chicken broth
pleted somewhat in advance to this 1 large cabbage (about 2 pounds)
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: point. Set aside uncovered; reheat be- 3 Tbs melted butter, optional
A 10-inch frying pan for the sausages; a fore proceeding. 12 slim carrots (or larger carrots cut
12-inch frying pan or chicken fryer, or into wedges)
a wok, for the main cooking ( no-stick Finishing. Boil off any remaining liq- 12 red-skinned "boiling" potatoes 1¾
lining recommended) uid. Correct seasoning, and fold in inches across
the parsley. Serve as is or as follows.
The sausages and garlic. Slice the sau- SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
sages into ½-inch pieces, and saute Other serving suggestions. A large skillet or flameproof casserole
them slowly in the pan, letting them for the leeks, a steaming basket and cov-
brown lightly but without burning Cheese topping. Spread several ered saucepan for the other vegetables; a
the fat. Smash the garlic with your tablespoons of grated Swiss cheeseon bulb baster; a baking dish and foil for
fist on your work surface to separate top, and run the pan under a hot final warming-up
the cloves; drop the cloves into a pan broiler until the cheese is bubbling
of boiling water and boil 15 seconds. and lightly browned. Leeks. Trim and wash the leeks, and
Remove, and slip off the skins. cut into 8-inch lengths, as described
Egg topping # 1. Top each serving on page 2 9 8. Drop them into boiling
The vegetables. Start peeling the pota- with a fried or poached egg. water and boil 2 minutes, refresh in
toes and cutting them into quarters or cold water, and drain (to set color).
sixths ( all vegetables should be cut Egg topping #2-the frittata. Beat Arrange the leeks in one or two lay-
about the same size). Film the large up 4 or 5 eggs with a sprinkling of ers, salt lightly, cover by 1 inch with
pan with 1/16 inch of sausage fat and/ salt and freshly ground pepper, pour chicken broth, and simmer uncov-
or oil, set over moderate heat, and them over the warm vegetables, ered until just tender-IO minutes.
add the potatoes as they are prepared. shaking the pan to distribute the Arrange them in the baking dish,
Continue with the carrots, adding eggs. Strew grated cheese on top, and leaving the liquid in the pan.
them to the pan and tossing fre- run under the broiler to brown the
quently to prevent sticking. Peel, top briefly.
cut, and add the turnips. Season
HI
Ill MASTER RECIPE
Ratatouille
Eggplant and zucchini casserole with
tomatoes, peppers, garlic, and
Mediterranean seasonings
Numerous recipes for this wonderful

Proven~al eggplant casserole exist,
and I think the best of them direct
that the vegetables cook separately,
then finish with a short communal
simmer. Thus each one, rather than
entering into a mish-mash relation-
ship, retains its own character.
Ratatouille is especially good with

roast lamb or beef, as well as with
egg dishes, steaks, chops, and broiled
fish. Serve it cold as a salad or with
cold meats, and it is fine on a picnic.
For illustration of the finished dish,
A Bouquet of Steamed Vegetables see page 216.
Cabbage. Cut the cabbage into 6 3 00°F oven while the potatoes steam. For 6 to 8 servings
wedges, remove the cores and set the I think it is safer to do the potatoes at 1 pound fresh shiny firm eggplant
wedges cut side up in the vegetable the last minute, since they can go off Salt, as needed
steamer. Salt lightly, dribble on the in taste otherwise. 1 pound zucchini
optional melted butter, and baste with ¼ to 1/3 cup olive oil, as needed
the liquid from the leeks. Steam Potatoes . Scrub the potatoes and shave Thyme, oregano, or a bottled herb
about 15 minutes, basting several a circle of skin off their midriffs. Ar- blend
times with the liquid in the pan. Ar- range them in the steaming basket 1 pound (3½ cups, sliced) onions
range in the baking dish with the and add 2 inches of water to the pan. 2 or 3 large green bell peppers (2
leeks. About 2 5 minutes before you plan to cups-sliced)
serve, cover the steamer, turn on the 3 large cloves of garlic, pureed
Carrots. Trim and peel the carrots. heat; steam them about 20 minutes, 3 cups tomato pulp (fresh tomatoes
Leave them whole if young and ten- or until a small knife pierces them peeled, seeded, juiced; or, out of
der; otherwise, quarter or halve easily. season, half fresh tomatoes and
them. Arrange them in the steamer; half drained and seeded canned
cover and steam 10 minutes, or until Serving. Arrange the vegetables plum tomatoes)
tender. Arrange them with the other around your meat, or upon a separate
vegetables and pour the remaining platter. Rapidly boil down their aro- SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
steaming liquid over all. matic cooking juices until almost syr- 1 or 2 lightly oiled jelly-roll pans for
upy and either pour them over the baking eggplant; a 12-inch frying pan
*Ahead-of-time note: Leeks, cabbage, leeks, cabbage, and carrots, or add for sauteing; a lightly oiled 2 ½-to 3-
and carrots may be cooked ahead; to them to whatever sauce you may be quart covered casserole 2 inches deep for
reheat, cover with foil and place in a servmg. final cooking
(continued )
318 JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK •
Ratatouille ( continued) the tomatoes have rendered their The eggplant. Cut, salt, oil, season,
juice; continue for several minutes and bake the eggplant slices as de-
Preliminaries. Remove green caps but until the juices have almost boiled scribed in the preceding ratatouille.
do not peel the eggplant; cut it into off.
lengthwise or crosswise slices 3/s inch Final arrangement and baking. Ar-
thick. Salt lightly on each side and Finishing the ratatouille-about 3 0 range the slices overlapping in the
spread on paper towels. Scrub the minutes. Set aside 4 of the best- baking dish, spreading each first with
zucchini, shave off the stem and bud looking slices of eggplant for final a spoonful of tomato sauce, then with
ends, but do not peel; cut lengthwise decoration. Arrange the rest of the a portion of grated cheese. Drizzle a
into 2-inch slices 3/s inch thick. Salt vegetables in several layers in the cas- little oil on top. Fifteen minutes or so
the zucchini slices, as for the serole, starting and ending with the before you wish to serve, bake in the
eggplant. Let both vegetables stand onion-pepper-tomato mixture as il- upper third level of a preheated
20 minutes; pat dry in paper towels. lustrated. Arrange the reserved to- 400°F oven. Be careful not to over-
mato and eggplant decoratively over cook: the contents should be just bub-
Baking the eggplant. Preheat the oven the top. Cover and bring to the sim- bling hot and the exuding cheese
to 400°F. Arrange the eggplant in mer over moderate heat, either on should be browning lightly.
the jelly-roll pan or pans, paint top of the stove or in a 325°F oven.
lightly with oil, and sprinkle with When bubbling gently, uncover, tip
herbs. Cover with aluminum foil and the casserole, and baste with the
VARIATIONS
bake 15 to 20 minutes, until just ten- juices rendered; repeat several times
der, but do not overcook: the slices until the juices have almost Miniature Eggplant Pizzas
must hold their shape. evaporated.
These baked eggplant slices with
Serving. Serve hot, warm, or cold.
pizza toppings are attractive in a veg-
etarian combination, or arrange them
around a main event, be it an ome-
lette, a steak, or a serving of roast
Eggplant Parmigiano
lamb.
Eggplant slices baked with Parmesan
cheese
For about 24 slices, serving 6 to 8
For 20 to 24 slices, serving 6 to 8 Ingredients for the preceding
2 shiny firm perfect eggplants, about eggplant Parmigiano
Arranging ratatouille elements 9 by 3½ to 4 inches
Salt as needed Cut the eggplant in crosswise slices
Olive oil or salad oil 3/s-inch thick, and salt it as directed
The rest of the vegetables. Film the in the master recipe for ratatouille;
A dried herb mixture such as
frying pan with 1/1 6 inch of olive oil. oil, season, and bake them on jelly-
Provenc;al or Italian herb
Dry the zucchini slices, and brown roll pans as also described. When
seasoning
lightly on each side; remove to paper tender, spread on each a generous
2 cups excellent home-made fresh
towels. Adding a little more oil if spoonful of the tomato sauce and an
tomato sauce (page 358)
necessary, saute the onions until ten- equally generous sprinkling of grated
About 1 cup grated Parmesan
der but not browned. Stir in the pep- cheese; dribble on droplets of olive
cheese
pers and garlic; fold and toss over oil. Shortly before serving, run
moderately high heat for several SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: under a hot broiler for a minute or so
minutes, until fairly tender. Set aside 1 or 2 jelly-roll pans; a lightly oiled to brown the cheese lightly.
½ cup of the tomatoes. Fold the rest shallow baking dish, such as an oval 9
into the onions and peppers; toss, by 12 by 2 inches
adding salt and herbs to taste, until
An Untraditional M oussaka
Baked eggplant slices with lamb and a
cheese topping
The perfect finale to a leg of lamb,

or, seeing it is such a tasty dish, start
from scratch with 1½ pounds of raw
ground lamb-it is to be sauteed
anyway. Serve moussaka hot with a
green salad and a hearty red wine,
like a zinfandel. Or take it along
cold, on a picnic.
For 8 servings
2 fine firm shiny eggplants 1½

pounds each
Salt
Olive oil
Dried herbs such as rosemary or a
mixture
The lamb An Untraditional Moussaka

½ cup lightly pressed down parsley
sprigs, washed and well dried
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: to brown very lightly. Then fold in
2 medium onions (to make about 1½
A 12-inch frying pan for the lamb mix- the tomatoes, wine, parsley, and all-
cups, minced)
ture; baking pans and foil for the spice, and a little salt and pepper as
eggplant slices; a food processor; a 3 - needed . Simmer over moderate heat,
About 3 cups cooked lamb
quart baking-serving dish 2 ½ to 3 stirring frequently, for half an hour,
2 cups drained and strained canned
inches deep or until the mixture is thick enough
Italian plum tomatoes
to hold its shape softly in a spoon.
¾ cup red wine or dry white French
The eggplant. Cut into slices, salt, and Taste analytically, and correct season-
vermouth
then bake the eggplant as described ing. Remove from heat and blend in
1/s tsp allspice
for the preceding master recipe for the egg.
ratatouille.
1 "large" egg, beaten to blend in a
Into the baking dish. Lightly oil the
small bowl
The lamb. Meanwhile, chop the pars- baking dish. L ine it with a layer of
The topping ley in the food processor; remove and eggplant slices, pressing them down
3 Tbs butter reserve. Add the onions and chop and together, spoon on half of the
¼ cup flour with on-off pulses; remove and saute meat mixture, add another layer of
2 cups hot milk them in the frying pan with 2 table- eggplant, then the rest of the meat,
Salt and freshly ground white pepper spoons of oil, adding the pureed and end with a layer of eggplant.
1 cup grated mozzarella cheese or garlic. While the onions cook, cut
Swiss cheese the lamb into 1-inch chunks and chop · The topping. Make 2 cups of standard
A small pinch of nutmeg by cupfuls in the processor-it white sauce by cooking the butter and
½ cup grated Swiss cheese, to top should not be too fine. When the on- fl.our together for 2 minutes without
the topping ions are tender, in 6 to 8 minutes, coloring; off heat, blend in the hot
add the lamb, raise heat to moder-
ately high, and saute several minutes (continued)
An Untraditional Moussaka (continued) Choose the Right Potato. Un-

m
Ill MASTER RECIPE
less we grow our own potatoes, our

milk; season, and simmer 3 minutes supermarkets usually offer us only Homemade Mashed
(full details are on page 2 7 2). Re- three varieties: bakers, boilers, and Potatoes
move sauce from heat. Blend in the all-purpose. Bakers are floury, and
cup of mozzarella or Swiss cheese. with certain exceptions you want For 6 servings
Season nicely with salt, pepper, and a them for mashing; boilers have less 4 or 5 large "baking" potatoes
speck of nutmeg. Spoon the hot sauce starch, and are designed to hold their Salt
over the top of the eggplant, shake shape reasonably well when boiled or ½ cup or so milk and/or cream,
the casserole to let some of the sauce when sliced in casseroles and salads. heated in a saucepan
sink down in, then spread over all For the recipes here in this book, 2 or more Tbs softened butter
the ½ cup of grated Swiss cheese. ((baking" potatoes mean russets-and Freshly ground white pepper
all russets do not come from Idaho,
*Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared much as the worthy growers from SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
even a day in advance to this point. that great state would like us to be- A potato ricer, or an electric mixer
Cover and refrigerate if the wait is lieve. ((Boiling" potatoes mean new
longer than ½ hour. potatoes, some of the yellow-fleshed Preliminary cooking. You may bake or
potatoes like Yukon Gold, and those steam the potatoes whole before
The cooking. Bake for 45 minutes or with red skins. You will find a de- mashing them, or boil them in pieces
so (longer if dish has been refriger- tailed run-down on growing and as suggested here. Wash and peel the
ated) in the middle level of a precooking potatoes, by the way, in potatoes and cut into quarters. Set in
heated 3 5 0°F oven until bubbling hot Marian Morash's splendid tome The a saucepan with lightly salted water to
and the top has browned lightly. Victory Garden Cookbook (New York: cover ( 1½ teaspoons salt per quart of
Serve warm or tepid but not too hot. Knopf, 1982 and reprints). water). Bring to the boil, cover
Good cold, too . loosely, and boil 10 to 15 minutes or
longer, until potatoes are tender when
pierced with a knife. Cut a piece in
MASHED POTATO DISHES half and eat a bit to be sure they are
POTATOES just done; undercooked potatoes will
Boxed dehydrated mashed potatoes not mash properly. Drain the water
M
can be remarkably good when prop- out of the pan (you may wish to save
an, it is said, could live erly buttered up. But a dish of home- it for soup making); toss the potatoes
on pot~toes alone, with made mashed potatoes, freshly over moderate heat for a moment,
just a bit of fat now and then to keep cooked and rich with milk and but- until they begin to film the pan; this
the motor running smoothly. Potato ter, smelling and tasting like real po- is to evaporate excess moisture.
recipes seem endless, so versatile and tato, ·is a soul-warming treat. Here
popular is this most valuable of vege- they are pure and beautiful, both Mashing. While still warm, either
tables. The French, to whom the po- white and sweet potatoes, followed by put the potatoes through a ricer (my
tato came rather late in life, appear to a quick way to dress them en duchesse. preference) and return to the pan, or
have developed more potato recipes See also the golden purees with other place in the large bowl of your elec-
than any group. Their famous vegetables on page 2 8 5. tric mixer and, using the wire whip
French culinary compendium La- attachment and moderate speed;
rousse Gastronomique, as an example, puree them with ¼ cup of the milk
has 99 listings in the potato category; and/or cream.
the equally famous R epertoire de la
Cuisine, 118. Here I have only a Mashing note: Home-style mashed
dozen, but they are among my potatoes are becoming trendy in
favorites. bistro-type restaurants at this writing,
and they're careful to leave in some yam for sweet potatoes that are dark-
lumps so we'll presume they're not SPECIAL NOTE skinned and have dark orange flesh. I
instant mashed-or perhaps they use shall use both terms, but in the
instant plus one or two lumpily Braised Garlic Cloves American sense.
mashed fresh potatoes. H mm! For use in vegetable mixtures or as a
garnish
For 6 servings
Seasoning. Beat in driblets of hot milk
Select a head of large garlic cloves 4 or 5 large sweet potatoes or yams
and/or cream, alternating with ½
and peel them (see Special Note on (about 2 pounds)
tablespoons of butter-careful not to
page 283). Place in a small covered 4 or more Tbs softened butter ( you
make them too soft. Season with salt
saucepan with 2 tablespoons of butter can use milk and/or cream, but
and pepper to taste. The sooner you
and cook over low heat 10 to 15 min- butter is better!)
can serve them, the better.
utes, until very tender. They should ½ tsp or so grated fresh ginger,
not color more than a creamy yellow. optional
*Ahead-of-time note: If you cannot Salt and freshly ground white pepper
serve at once, beat in only a mini-
mum of milk, etc. (Turn the potatoes
Scrub the potatoes under warm run-
into a saucepan if you have used an
Braised Garlic Cloves ning water. Bake on a foil-lined pan
electric mixer.) Set in another pan of
Simmered in Cream in the middle level of a 42 5°F oven
hot but not simmering water, and
To be used as a garnish, or to be pureed for an hour or more, until tender
cover the potatoes loosely- they must and used in sauces or other purees throughout when pierced with a
stay warm to retain their fresh qual-
knife. When done, cut in half and
ity, and they must have air circulation Pour ½ cup or so of heavy cream scoop the flesh into a heavy saucepan.
or they develop an off-taste. At serv- into the braised garlic, add a good Puree with a mixing fork or a potato
ing time, bring the water to the sim- pinch of salt and freshly ground masher. Set over low heat and beat in
mer, beating the potatoes with a white pepper, and simmer over low the butter ( or warm milk and/or
wooden spoon; then beat in more hot heat for 5 to 10 minutes, until melt- cream) by tablespoons, the optional
milk or cream and soft butter to your ingly tender. ginger, and salt and pepper to taste.
taste.
*Ahead-of-time note: If not served
Mashed Sweet Potatoes shortly, keep as suggested for the pre-
VARIATION or Yams ceding mashed potatoes.
Garlic Mashed Potatoes More unusual is a puree of sweet po-

tatoes or yams, which go so well with VARIATIO N
These are marvelous with almost turkey, goose, duck, and pork. They
anything, a subtle and fragrant but are attractive, also, served in a dish A Peaked Puree of Yams
mellow touch of garlic in a rich mass with mashed white potatoes, to pro-
of home-cooked mashed potatoes. duce a Two Potato Puree. Or form Using a pastry bag with a ½-inch
After mashing the potatoes in the them into little peaks in a baking dish star tube, pipe the preceding finished
preceding master recipe, puree and as described in the variation follow- puree into a buttered baking dish.
blend in a head of garlic cloves sim- ing. The real yam, by the way, is a Before serving, cover and reheat 10
mered in cream ( see Special Note on tropical vegetable we don't see in this minutes or so in a 325°F oven.
this page), then beat in more season- country, although for an unknown
ings and cream and/or butter as you reason we continue to use the term
see fit.
SCALLOPED POTATO Drop the slices, as you do them, into

DISHES a bowl of cold water. Meanwhile,
bring 1 cup of milk to the boil in the
Sliced potatoes baked in milk or baking dish (or in a small saucepan if
broth or cream always go well with your dish is not flameproof; pour into
plain roast or broiled meats and poul- the baking dish after adding the pota-
try, and with steaks, chops, and ham- toes); add the pureed garlic, ¼ tea-
burgers. They are good for a party, spoon of salt, and a few grinds of
too, since you may bake the dish pepper. Drain the potatoes, spread
ahead and reheat it when the time them in the dish, adding a little more
Duchess Potatoes
comes. milk, if needed, to come three quar-
ters of the way up the potatoes. Top
Duchess Potatoes with the optional butter, cut into bits.
Fast and fancy mashed potato

iii
111 MASTER RECIPE
..
shapes-form them now, bake them Bring again to the simmer, correct
later. Potatoes Dauphinoise seasonings, and set in the upper third
Scalloped potatoes baked in milk level of the preheated oven until
For about 2 ½ cups nicely browned and the milk has been
This easy dish bakes quickly in a hot almost entirely absorbed-about 25
3 egg yolks
oven, or you may cook it on top of minutes; 10 minutes or so more if
2 cups plain firm warm mashed
the stove as in the variation follow- your dish is not flameproof.
potatoes (omit the cream, butt,er,
ing. You may also make it fat-free, if
etc., in the master recipe)
3 Tbs butter
you wish. The simple version here is *Ahead-of-time note: Bake the potatoes
without cheese, but you will find until barely tender. Set aside uncov-
2 Tbs heavy cream
cheese in the variations, as well as in ered; when cool, cover and refriger-
a version simmered luxuriously in ate. To finish cooking, preheat the
Freshly grated nutmeg
heavy cream. oven to 42 5°F. Bring the potatoes to
½ cup finely grated Swiss cheese
the simmer on top of the stove (or in
For 6 servings the oven), adding a few spoonfuls of
A pastry bag with ½-inch star tube 2 to 2½ pounds "boiling" potatoes (6
milk if needed , and finish cooking
opening (see Special Note, page 460 ); to 7 cups, sliced)
for about 10 minutes.
1 or 2 baking sheets, lightly buttered, 1 ½ cups milk (use low-fat or skim
dusted with flour, and excess knocked off milk, if you wish)
1 large clove of garlic, pureed VAR IATIONS
Beat the egg yolks one by one into the Salt and freshly ground white pepper
warm potatoes, then the butter and 2 or more Tbs butter, optional S ca/loped Potatoes S avoyarde
::ream; season to taste. While still
warm, pipe them onto the prepared SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: The addition of onions, herbs, and
Jaking sheets; sprinkle lightly with A vegetable slicer or food processor is cheese makes this a more assertive
:he cheese. Set aside at room temper- useful for even slices; a lightly buttered potato di sh than the Dauphinoise.
tture. Half an hour before serving, 8-cup baking dish 1 ½ to 2 inches deep, However, it is done the same way.
·eheat and brown lightly in the upper and flameproof if possible Before you begin, saute 3 cups of
hird level of a 400°F oven. thinly sliced onions in 2 tablespoons
Assembling. Preheat the oven to
425°F. Peel the potatoes, wash them,
and cut into slices Ys inch thick.
of butter; provide yourself with 1 ½

cups of coarsely grated Swiss cheese,
and 2 cups or so of chicken or beef
stock blended with a good pinch of
mixed dried herbs. Fill the baking
dish with layers of onions, sliced po-
tatoes, and cheese, ending with a
layer of cheese. Pour in the stock to
come halfway up, and bake about 40
minutes in the lower middle level of
a preheated 425°F oven, sucking up
juices with a bulb baster and spraying
them over the potatoes several times.
Fat-free variation. If you are on a fat-

free kick, you may omit the cheese as
well as the butter-simmering the
onions 5 minutes or so in the stock
before adding the potatoes.
Stove-top variation: As an alternative

to oven baking, you may turn the Scalloped Potatoes Baked in Cream
preceding fat-free version into a

stove-top Savoyarde except for a light
Scalloped Potatoes For 6 servings
cheese topping. Follow the technique
in the next recipe.
Baked in Cream 1½ to 2 cups each heavy cream and
half-and-half cream
Serve these heavenly potatoes with 1 large clove of garlic, pureed
duck, chicken, steak, roasts, or just Salt and freshly ground white pepper
by themselves. They simmer in a 1 imported bay leaf
Stove-Top Dauphinoise
combination of heavy cream and half- 2 to 2½ pounds "boiling" potatoes (6
and-half, and an important plus is to 7 cups, sliced)
Bring 1 cup of the Dauphinoise milk
that you can complete the initial 3 to 4 Tbs grated Swiss cheese
to the boil on top of the stove in a no-
cooking hours in advance. I, for one,
stick frying pan, adding the garlic,
would far rather swoon over a small SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
sliced potatoes, seasonings, optional
spoonful of this ambrosia than a large A heavy-bottomed 3 -quart stainless or
butter, and additional milk to come
ladleful of instant mashed made with enameled saucepan with cover; a but-
two thirds of the way up the potatoes.
skim milk! tered shallow baking and serving dish
Cover and simmer 15 to 20 minutes
( or individual serving dishes) for the fi-
(watch for boil-overs), or until the
The first time I had these potatoes nal baking
potatoes are tender and the milk has
was when Catherine Brandel, who
been almost absorbed. Uncover the
has cooked at Chez Panisse and at the Assembling. Pour 1 ½ cups each of
pan. Shortly before serving, spread
Mondavi Vineyard, suggested them heavy and half-and-half cream into
on ½ cup of grated Swiss cheese and
for one of our elaborate duck dishes the-saucepan. Stir in the garlic, ½
set 4 to 5 inches below a hot broiler
in Parade magazine. Here is my ver- teaspoon of salt, several grinds of
element to heat through and brown
sion of that memorable experience.
the top nicely.
(continued)
Assembling the potatoes
Scalloped Potatoes Baked in Cream

(continued)
pepper, and the bay leaf. Slice the po-

tatoes evenly Vs inch thick, dropping
them as sliced into the cream . When
all are in, add more cream if neces-
sary, to cover the potatoes by ½ inch.
Preliminary cooking- I to 1 ½ hours. Grated potato galettes

Bring to below the simmer and main-
tain at just below the simmer for an
THREE POTATO GALETTES Sara Moulton. With Sally's kind per-
hour or more, until the potatoes are
mission, Sara relayed the important in-
perfectly tender. Check frequently to
It is useful at times to have a pan- formation that "baking" potatoes are
be sure they are not bubbling, since
cake-type potato dish that you can put required for this particular dish, that
that can cause the cream to curdle;
such edibles upon as half a game hen, they are boiled the previous day so they
check also that the potatoes are not
a piece of duck, or even a fried egg. will be cold for proper grating, and
sticking or scorching in the bottom of
Here are two stove-top models and that the trick is to keep them slightly
the pan.
one for the oven. underdone. Then the potato pieces will
stick together enough in the saute pan so
Into the baking dish. When tender,
that you can flip them over to brown the
correct seasoning and turn them into
other side.
the buttered baking and serving dish; Grated Potato Galettes
spread on the grated cheese. EQUIPMENT NOTE. For the grating it-
One of the crispest and most success- self, I prefer the old-fashioned 4-sided
*Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared ful of potato pancakes, to my mind, hand grater; the food processor produces
to this point several hours in ad- is made with grated cooked potatoes. too many small shards.
vance. Cover when cool, and You may form and saute them either
refrigerate. as thin and lacy as a crepe, or pan- For 6 galettes about 5 inches across
cake-thick.
Final baking-20 minutes at 425°F. 2 or 3 large "baking" potatoes about
About 20 minutes before serving, set MANUFACTURING SECRET. / had
12 ounces each
in the upper middle level of the pre- these for the first time at Sally and John Salt and freshly ground pepper
heated oven and bake until bubbling ½ cup or so clarified butter (page
Darr's New York restaurant, La Tu-
hot and lightly browned on top: do lipe, and thought they were remarkably 139) or olive oil
not overcook or the potatoes will be good. Sally's sous-chef at that time was
dry rather than lush and creamy.

A hand grater, with its large holes ¼
inch across; a no-stick frying pan or
seasoned iron crepe pan, bottom diame-
ter of 5 to 5 ½ inches
Cooking the potatoes-several hours or

a day in advance. Scrub the potatoes
under hot running water, then steam
them for 12 to 15 minutes, until the
potatoes are almost but not quite
cooked . In other words, they should
not be floury-after 12 minutes,
pierce one with a sharp small knife,
which should just penetrate. Cut one
of the potatoes in half crosswise: if
there is a raw central core, steam 2 or
3 minutes more . (If the central core
is not cooked through it can dis-
color!) Let cool uncovered; the pota-
toes must be thoroughly cold before
you grate them. Unmolded Stove-Top Anna
ANOTHER PRESENTATION
illustrated. Toss lightly with a sprin-
kling of salt and pepper, leaving Make a large galette in a 10- or 12-
them loosely massed; set aside until inch pan, and if you don't have the
you are ready to continue. courage to flip, brown the top under
the broiler. After a light browning on
Sauteing. Film a frying pan with 1/s the top, you could then sprinkle it
inch of clarified butter or oil, and, with grated Swiss cheese, and brown
when hot, spread in ½ to 2/3 cup of agam.
grated potato (the amount depends on
how thick a galette you want). Saute
over moderate heat for 4 to 5 min-
utes, pressing the potatoes together The Stove-Top Anna
lightly with a spatula , until the bot- Mold of sliced potatoes and cheese
tom has crusted and browned. Flip
over, and saute to brown the other This is a frying-pan take-off on the
side a few minutes more. Transfer to famous Potatoes Anna, in which a
a baking sheet, and keep warm while mold of sliced potatoes is baked in a
Grating the almost-cooked cold potatoes
finishing the rest . hot oven and then unmolded like a
cake. The classic Anna is a spectacu-
Grating. Peel the cold potatoes and *Ahead-of-time note: The galettes may lar dish, a tour de force. The Stove-
rub through the large holes of the be sauteed somewhat ahead. Set aside Top Anna, on the other hand, is not
grater onto a baking sheet or tray, as uncovered , at room temperature. Re- much of a trick provided you have
heat briefly in a 42 5°F oven.
(continued)
and rapidly arrange an overlapping For 6 servings

layer of potato slices in the pan as il-
1 ¼ to 1 ½ pounds "boiling" potatoes
lustrated, shaking it gently from time
(3 large ones)
to time to prevent sticking. Baste
2 to 3 Tbs melted butter, olive oil, or
with a sprinkling of butter or oil, ar-
duck, goose, or chicken fat
range a second layer over the first,
and ~ver this arrange a layer of the
pepper, and, if you wish, thyme or
optional cheese slices. Season a third
mixed herbs, and/or pureed garlic
layer of potatoes with salt, pepper,
and a speck of nutmeg. Continue fill- SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
Arranging the Stove-Top Anna
ing the pan with potatoes, optional A slicing device is useful; a no-stick
cheese, seasonings, and end with a baking surface is essential; if you wish a
The Stove-Top Anna (continued) layer of potatoes. When filled, shake neat form choose a tart or flan ring, or
the pan gently again, and let cook 3 individual rings
the right frying pan. You will note to 5 minutes over moderately high
here that you may include slices of heat to be sure the bottom is crusting .. Preparing the potatoes. Preheat the
Swiss cheese if you wish, and it could oven to 40 0°F. Peel and slice the po-
then be a luncheon or supper main Finishing the cooking. Then cover the tatoes, and drop as you do them into
course to serve with fried or poached pan and set over low heat for 45 min- a bowl of cold water. Drain and dry
eggs and/or a green salad. utes, or until the potatoes are tender them thoroughly, then dry the bowl
when pierced with a small knife. (Be and return the potatoes to it. Toss the
For 6 servings sure the heat is regulated so that the slices to coat them with the butter,
2½ pounds "boiling" potatoes (about potatoes do not burn on the bottom.) oil, or fat, and whatever seasonings
10 cups, sliced) Run a spatula all around the edge of you have chosen.
1/3 to ½ cup clarified butter (page the pan and underneath the potatoes
139) or olive oil to loosen them; unmold onto a hot Baking-30 to 40 minutes. Arrange
4 ounces Swiss cheese, cut into serving dish. the slices neatly (especially the bottom
slices 1/s inch thick and about 1 by layer) in or on whatever you have
1 ½ inches across (to make 1 cup), *Ahead-of-time note: If done some- chosen. Bake in the upper middle
what in advance, cover the potatoes level of the preheated oven for 2 0
optional
loosely and keep in a warming oven minutes; rapidly press them down
or over almost-simmering water- with a spatula. Bake 15 to 20 minutes
Freshly grated nutmeg
they must have air circulation, and more, until the potatoes are lightly
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: they must stay warm to retain their browned. Turn them over (if you
A heavy 10-inch no-stick frying pan, or freshly cooked taste. easily can), and bake a few minutes
a very well seasoned cast-iron pan; a more to brown the carefully arranged
cover for the pan underside.
Preparing the potatoes. One at a time, Oven-Roasted Potato *Ahead-of-time note: When done
peel the potatoes and cut into fairly Galettes somewhat ahead, they will keep
neat round slices 1¼ inches in diam- nicely if they remain uncovered at
eter and ¼ inch thick. Drop them, Thinly sliced potatoes tossed in butter room temperature; reheat for a few
as you do so, into a bowl of cold or olive oil and seasonings, then moments in the oven just before
water. When all are done, drain the roasted in a thin layer in the oven- servmg.
slices, and dry in a towel. they are lightly brown and tenderly
crisp. Form them as a large serving
Preliminary cooking. Pour ¼ inch of in a tart ring, or make individual
clarified butter or olive oil into the portions.
frying pan, set over moderate heat,
A Fast Saute WHITE RICE AND

of Diced Potatoes WILD RICE
W
Here is a quick and crusty garnish
for hamburgers, chops, or a saute of hat is free of cholesterol,
chicken or of beef tenderloin. low in sodium, packed
with all eight of the essential amino
For 6 servings acids, reasonable in price, easy to .
cook, non-allergenic, readily digest-
4 or 5 medium "boiling" potatoes
ible, and is also, in spite of all this,
2 to 3 Tbs clarified butter (page 139),
really good to eat? It's regular white
or half butter and half olive oil
RICE, and you can do so many
things with it, from soups to salads to
A pinch of thyme or mixed herbs,
main courses to delicious desserts.
optional
Now that we are advised by the nu-
1 Tbs or so butter to finish, optional
tritional worthies to consume a little
A sprinkle of chopped fresh parsley
less meat and more carbohydrates,
or chives, optional
and since we all want to shrink our Steam holes

food bills, rice is well worth our seri-
A 10-inch no-stick frying pan
ous culinary consideration. For a few
Bring to the boil over high heat, stir
useful facts, see the Special Note on
up once thoroughly, and reduce heat
Preparing the potatoes. Peel the pota-
page 329.
to the simmer-slight movement and
toes and cut into ¼-inch slices; cut slow bubbling. Cover the pan and set
the slices into ¼-inch strips, and the the timer for 12 minutes (8 minutes
strips into ¼-inch dice. iii
111 MASTER RECIPE
for Italian arborio rice).
Sauteing. Drain and dry the potatoes. After 12 minutes. Take a quick peek at
Plain Boiled White Rice
Heat the butter or butter and oil in the rice: 12 minutes is probably not
the frying pan until very hot but not enough, but it is wiser to be safe than
For 3 cups cooked rice, serving 4 to 6
browning. Toss in the potatoes, lower eventually gummy. The cooked rice
heat to moderate, and saute, tossing 1 cup plain white rice, enriched or is done, or almost done, when the
frequently. When they begin to not, and either long-grain or liquid has been absorbed, and you see
brown lightly, toss with a sprinkling short-grain steam holes, as illustrated. Fork up a
of salt and pepper and optional dried 2 cups water few grains-but do not stir it, be-
herbs. Continue until nicely browned 1 tsp salt cause stirring at this point could turn
and tender- IO to 15 minutes in all. 1 to 2 Tbs butter (or olive oil or the grains sticky. Bite into it. The
If you wish, toss with a little addi- other fat), optional grains should be very slightly al
tional butter, and fresh parsley or dente-with the very faintest crunch
chives. SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: at the center, but almost tender; cover
A heavy-bottomed 2 ½ -quart saucepan the pan and set it away from heat,
*Ahead-of-time note: Set uncovered with cover; a wooden fork ( or somewhere the rice will finish cooking in
over very low heat or in a pan of thing like it, for fluffing the rice without another 2 or 3 minutes. (If it is defi-
barely simmering water. The potatoes breaking the grains) nitely not done, and liquid remains at
will keep their fresh taste for ½ hour the bottom of the pan, cover and sim-
or so if they remain just warm and Measure the rice into the saucepan mer a few minutes more.)
are left uncovered. and stir in the 2 cups of water (either
hot or cold; it makes no difference). (continued)
Add the salt and optional butter.
Plain Boiled White Rice (continued) Braised Rice: Risotto the simmer, stir once thoroughly,
then cover tightly and proceed as for
Rice is overcooked when the grains are To give rice more character so that it the master recipe-regulating heat so
splayed out at the ends; they should can stand on its own, saute the grains that the rice cooks at the slow simmer
remain slightly rounded. You can briefly in butter, then simmer as without stirring again for 12 to 15
still enjoy it, of course, but the rice usual, but with herbs and onions, and minutes, until almost tender-faintly
will have lost much of its desirable chicken stock or beef stock rather al dente. Cover the pan and set aside
texture and flavor. than water. Note that this is the for several minutes, while the rice
French risotto, not the Italian finishes cooking.
If the rice is done but the liquid has not method.
been absorbed, uncover the pan and set Finishing the rice. While still warm,
over moderately low heat for a few For 3 cups cooked rice remove the bay leaf or herb bouquet,
minutes to evaporate excess liquid. fluff the rice with a fork, and correct
1/3 cup finely minced onions
Or drain the rice, put it back in the seasoning.
pan, and toss lightly with a wooden 2 Tbs butter
fork over moderate heat. 1 cup unwashed raw white rice
Vegetarian note. Substitute water for
(Carolina long-grain works well
chicken stock, and double the onions
If the rice is not tender but the liquid in a risotto)
and herbs.
has boiled off. Sprinkle on droplets of ¼ cup dry white French vermouth,
water, cover, and cook a few minutes optional
Serving suggestions. Serve the rice as it
more. 2 cups light chicken stock heated in
is to accompany simply sauced fish or
a small saucepan
chicken dishes, or you may wish to
*Ahead-of-time note: Reheating Salt and freshly ground pepper
make a more important vegetable or
cooked rice. Once the rice has 1 medium imported bay leaf (or a
main course of it by folding in cream
cooked, allow it to cool, and you can small herb bouquet-1 small bay
and/or grated cheese, or mushroom
refrigerate it for a day or two before leaf, 1/s tsp thyme, and 3 parsley
duxelles (see Special Note, page
reheating. To reheat, first fluff it sprigs tied in washed cheesecloth)
3 14), diced sauteed eggplant or ham,
lightly with a wooden fork. Then you and so forth. See also suggestions for
have several choices: the rice salads on page 3 69.
A heavy-bottomed 6-cup saucepan with
cover; a w ooden fork
The frying pan. Saute the rice
lightly in butter, tossing and turning
Sauteing the rice . Saute the onions VARIATIONS
and fluffing with a wooden fork as it
slowly in the butter for several min-
warms.
utes until soft and translucent. Stir in Curried Rice
the rice and saute, slowly stirring,
Double boiler. Turn the rice into a
for several minutes more until the Following the preceding recipe,
covered pan and set that in a larger
grains, which first become translu- blend a teaspoon of fragrant curry
pan of simmering water; add droplets
cent, turn a milky white. This step powder into the butter and onions as
of water, and fluff as it heats .
cooks the starchy coating and pre- they cook, then proceed.
vents the grains from sticking.
Steaming. If you have cooked your
Variations continue on page 330
rice without butter, oil, or other fat,
Braising. If you are using vermouth,
fold it into a clean, damp towel and
stir it in now and let it boil down for
set in a sieve or colander. Cover it,
a moment. Blend in the chicken
and place over a pan of simmering
stock, correct seasoning, and add the
water; steam several minutes, until
bay leaf or herb bouquet. Bring to
well heated through.
SPECIAL NOTE Glutenous rice is short, plump, ented term for an avuncular brand of
chalky white, and really sticky-used parboiled rice, and the manufacturer
Rice Facts mostly for commercial gravies and will sue anybody who uses the term
some Oriental preparations. as a generic.
More than 40,000 varieties of rice
are grown in the world today, says the
Rice Council of America. But in the
United States, only a few of them are A Note on Imported Enriched Rice
cultivated commercially. These fall Italian Rice
into four main categories, and I am An increasing number of states re-
speaking only of white rice: Italian arborio rice with its fat quire by law that all rice, processed
short grains is tender, relatively fast- or not, be enriched. And it is quite
cooking, and has wonderful flavor. possible that even if your state has no
Use it in Italian-style creamy risottos, such law, the rice you buy has been
Long-grain rice is four to five but it boils up nicely, too, if not enriched. The box label will tell you.
times as long as it is wide and cooks overcooked.
up the fluffiest-the grains are less "Enriched" means that certain miner-
inclined to stick together. It is als and vitamins are added to replace
recommended for boiled rice, pilaffs, those lost during milling-iron, nia-
and salads. Wild Rice cin, and thiamine, plus, in some
cases, vitamin D, riboflavin, and
W i Id rice, which is not a member calcium.
of the rice family at all and does not
Medium-grain rice is a little cook in the same way, is dealt with Since the enrichment is on the surface
shorter and tenderer than long-grain starting on the next page. of the grains, it is soluble. One
and is especially good for rice therefore should not wash enriched
desserts like our Louisiana Bavarian rice before cooking nor rinse it after-
on page 448. ward, nor, of course, cook it in a
Parboiled Rice large amount of water and then
drain it.
This is rice treated by a special steam
Short-grain rice is even tenderer process designed to harden the grains Enriched rice cooks a little faster
and more inclined to stickiness than so they will not stick together. You than plain rice.
medium-grain. It is used widely by cook it like plain white rice, although
Oriental and Caribbean cooks. it may take a few minutes longer and
· may require a little more liquid. The
package label should say "parboiled ."
"Con~erted," by the way, is the pat-
Saffron R ice Cook the minced onions slowly with WILD RICE
the butter in the covered saucepan for
Steep a medium pinch of saffron 10 to 15 minutes, until almost tender Wild rice, the seed of a special grass
threads in the chicken stock as you but not browned . Uncover the pan that is of a different species than reg-
are sauteing the onions, then add the and simmer several minutes to evap- ular rice, was formerly gathered
chicken stock to the rice as usual. orate excess moisture, then fold in uniquely by American Indians. Now
the rice and cook for several minutes, that it is also being cultivated by
stirring, to coat the grains with the growers in various parts of the coun-
butter. Blend in the 4 cups of liquid , try, it is more easily available, though
Rice Soubise optional vermouth or wine, and the never cheap. The pronounced flavor
Braised rice and onions salt and bay leaf. Bring to the sim- and pleasantly chewy texture of wild
mer. Stir up once, then cover and let rice make it a welcome accompani-
A savory accompaniment to roasts, cook at a moderate simmer, without ment to meats with personality, such
especially pork, as well as steaks, stirring again, for 12 to 15 min- as pork, duck, goose, and game, al-
chops, chicken, and turkey, is this utes-until the liquid is absorbed though it also has its role as a contrast
classic French combination known as and the rice grains are almost tender. to the milder flavors of chicken and
soubise. Surrounding it as in the Eat a few to test. Cover the pan and game hens.
photo with hashed Brussels sprouts set aside; the rice will finish cooking
( page 27 5) adds to its appeal, and the by itself.
fact that you can do the main cooking iii
in advance makes it particularly use- *Ahead-of-time note: When cool, Ill MASTER RECIPE
ful for a crowd. cover and refrigerate. To reheat,

place the rice in its cooking pan in Wild Rice Braised with
For 10 to 12 servings another and larger pan of simmering Mirepoix
water; fluff the soubise gently with a
4 cups minced onions For about 4 cups of cooked rice, serving
wooden fork as it warms through.
4 Tbs butter 6 to 8
2 cups raw white rice (long-grain or
To serve: Taste carefully and correct 1 ½ cups wild rice
"parboiled")
seasoning, fluffing in salt and pepper ¼ cup mirepoix (finely diced sauteed
4 cups liquid ( water only, or water
as needed, and the optional butter, onions, carrots, celery, and boiled
and chicken broth)
sour cream, heavy cream and/or ham, Special Note on page 297)
½ cup dry white French vermouth
cheese. 1/3 cup dry white French vermouth
or white wine, optional
¾ to 1 tsp salt, or to taste or dry white wine
1 imported bay leaf 2 cups or so chicken stock or duck
Freshly ground pepper OTHER RECIPES US I NG WHITE RICE stock
Optional final additions: several Tbs Salt and freshly ground pepper
softened butter and/or sour Rice is every bit as good as pasta for 2 Tbs or so butter for final
cream, heavy cream, and grated salads, and far less commonplace; see enrichment, optional
Parmesan cheese pages 369 and 370 for East Bay Hot
Rice Salad and for the Emperor's
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: Rice. On page 448 is a splendid des- A heavy-bottomed 2-quart saucepan
A heavy-bottomed 4-quart saucepan sert with caramel sauce, the Louisi-
with cover ana Bavarian. Preparing the rice fo r cooking. Wash
and either blanch or soak the rice as
described in the Special Note on the
next page; drain and wash it.
Cooking the rice. Turn the rice into DRIED VEGETABLES

the pan with the mirepoix, add the SPECIAL NOTE
optional vermouth, and boil a mo- BEANS, LENTILS, WHEAT

ment, until the liquid has almost Wild Rice Cooking Notes BERRIES, HOMINY, AND
evaporated. Pour in enough stock to CORNMEAL
cover the rice by about ¼ inch, sea-
son lightly to taste, and simmer cov-
ered for 15 minutes or more ( soaked Grit and dirt. Wild rice,
rather than blanched rice will prob- particularly "wild" wild rice, contains
DRIED BEANS AND
ably take longer), adding a little sandy particles and needs careful
washing. Wild rice can also take a LENTILS
more liquid if needed until the rice is
the consistency you like-such as very long time to cook unless it has a
Beans and lentils, and dried vege-
quite tender but still with a touch of preliminary blanching or soaking.
tables in general, are some of the
chewiness. Uncover, and saute, stir- I've found this a satisfactory system:
world's oldest foods. Full of nature's
ring with a wooden fork, to boil off pour the rice into a close-meshed
bounty, they are a fine source of that
any remaining liquid. You may then sieve and swish it in a bowl of water
' life-supporting ingredient, the pro-
wish to add a tablespoon or so more rubbing it between your hands; if
tein, yet they are one of the least ex-
butter, sauteing an additional minute there are more than a few grains of
pensive items on our grocery lists. In
or two to let the rice dry off and crisp sand in the bottom of the bowl
' the old days great-grandmother used
lightly. Correct seasoning, and the repeat with fresh water.
to soak them all night and boil them
rice is ready to serve.
all day. Now, with the quick-soaking
method, the otherwise 12-hour so-
*Ahead-of-time note: May be cooked
journ in water is reduced to an hour,
in advance and reheated, with about a To tenderize the rice.
and a pressure cooker reduces the
tablespoon of stock or water.
otherwise 1 ½ -hour cooking time to
minutes.
System # 1 , bl an ch in g. After
VARIATIONS
washing the rice, simmer it for 10 to
Wild Rice Braised with 15 minutes in twice its volume of
water, until it has softened but still
Mushroom Duxelles
has a grain of hardness when you bite
A mushroom flavoring is delicious into it. Drain, and wash it again just
with wild rice, and more subtle than to be sure all grit is out. Blanching
the preceding mirepoix . Follow the will also remove some of its strong
directions for the preceding wild rice taste.
but rather than mirepoix, substitute
the same amount of mushroom dux- All-Season Bean Salad, Boston Baked Beans, and
elles (finely diced sauteed mushroom, Lamb Shanks and Beans all go well with Boston
Special Note on page 3 14). Sys fem # 2, soaking. After Brown Bread .
washing the rice, turn it into a bowl
and pour on twice its volume of
Amounts. l cup of dried beans
boiling water. Cover and let soak for
produces 3 cups of cooked beans,
Wild Rice Croutons an hour or more, then drain and
serving 4 to 6.
wash it.
Directions for making individual
cakes of wild rice are on page 155,
where they accompany split game
hens broiled with cheese.
To Quick-Soak Dried Beans To the soaked beans and their liquid Serving suggestions. Once cooked, the
in the pressure pan add the optional beans are ready to be turned into a
1 cup dried beans ingredients and salt; cover and bring hot vegetable, or to finish off with a
3 cups of water (10 cups for to 15 pounds pressure. Pressure-cook stew, or to become salad. Or you may
antiflatulence) exactly 3 minutes. Remove from cook them up in the first place as a
heat, and let the pressure go down by fragrant bean soup. Here are some
Turn the beans into a sieve and pick itself- IO to 15 minutes. Uncover, suggestions, and you will note that
them over carefully, removing any eat a bean or two, and if not quite home-cooked and canned beans are
stones or other debris-worth doing tender, simmer partially covered 5 to interchangeable.
because a tiny stone can be a tooth 10 minutes, adding a little boiling
breaker. Wash thoroughly, and turn water if necessary. The beans are now NOTES ON BEAN-COOKING LIQUID.
the beans and 3 cups of water either ready for further flavoring, hot or It makes a fine base for meat-based or
into the pan of a pressure cooker or cold. v egetable soups. You can store it in the
into a saucepan. Bring to the boil and freezer.
boil uncovered for exactly 2 minutes;
cover the pan and set aside for exactly
T M ASTER RECIPE
!1!
1 hour. The beans are now ready to
Canned beans . Canned black
cook . (If you have used the antiflatu-
lent 10 cups of water, drain and wash Open-Pot Bean Cookery beans , pinto beans, cannellini beans,
For all beans kidney beans-use any of these in
the beans; add 3 cups of fresh cold
water.) any of the recipes calling for home-
For 3 cups of cooked beans cooked beans. Before using canned
beans I like to drain them into a sieve
Ingredients for the preceding set over a bowl , then rinse the beans
dd,
,1
m MASTER RECIPE
pressure-cooked beans under the hot water faucet.
Optional additions
Pressure-Cooked Beans An herb bouquet (page 336),
Pea beans, navy beans, Great Northerns, including a large clove of garlic VA RIATIO NS
black beans, soybeans, but not French and 2 cloves
flageolets
1 medium onion Beans Maitre d'Hotel
1 small carrot Beans tossed with garlic and herbs (For
For 3 cups of cooked beans cooked or canned beans)
A 2-inch square of blanched salt
1 cup of the preceding presoaked pork (page 142)
ready-to-cook dried beans in their These go with roast lamb, pork, or
3 cups of fresh water SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: rabbit stew, or with sausages or ham.
Optional additions: 2 Tbs olive oil, A heavy 3 -quart saucepan w ith cover
peanut oil, or butter, or a 2-inch For 4 to 6 servings, puree 1 or 2
square of blanched salt pork Simmer the beans and optional addi- large cloves of garlic and saute in 3
(page 142); 1 imported bay leaf or tions, partially covered, for 1 to 1½ tablespoons of butter or olive oil.
an herb bouquet hours, or until tender. After a moment, fold in 3 cups of
¾ tsp salt drained cooked or canned beans. Let
*Ahead-of-time note: Cooked beans heat through thoroughly, and fold in
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: may be done a day or two ahead; let seasonings to taste, along with drops
A medium pressure cooker them cool in their cooking liquid, of freshly squeezed lemon juice. Just
then cover and refrigerate. before serving, fold and toss with a
handful of chopped fresh parsley or
other fresh green herbs such as basil
or oregano.
Puree of Beans For about 2 ½ cups

SPECIAL NOTE
2 cups cooked or canned beans,
As an alternative to mashed potatoes,
The rooti-ti-toots drained
pureed beans go especially well with
3 Tbs olive oil
roast pork, pork chops, and ham ·
Some diners find the flatulent after- 2 Tbs tahini (sesame paste)
dishes.
effects of home-cooked dried beans 1 Tbs freshly squeezed lemon juice
too distressing to contemplate. A 1 or 2 large cloves of garlic, pureed
For 6 servings, puree 3 cups of
number of years ago, scientists at the and then mashed with ½ tsp salt
drained cooked or canned beans in a
Western Regional Research Center of Seasonings: salt, pepper, hot pepper
food processor or vegetable mill,
the U.S. Department of Agriculture sauce, and sage
adding a little of their liquid as
in Albany, California, discovered that needed. Puree I or 2 large cloves of SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
dried beans do indeed contain ele- garlic and saute briefly in 2 table- A food processor or vegetable mill
ments some people find difficult to di- spoons of butter or olive oil; stir in
gest . To cope, the human intestines the pureed beans. Stir for several Puree the beans, and, if you are
send out voluminous gases of protest minutes over moderate heat to evapo- using a food processor, pulse in the
and rebellion . rate excess liquid, then beat in butter rest of the ingredients. Otherwise
or cream, as you wish. Carefully cor- puree into a mixing bowl and beat
Fortunately, however, these same rect seasoning. Decorate with op- them in. Season carefully to taste.
scientists found that about 8 0 percent tional fresh herbs, such as parsley,
of the offending elements are soluble basil, or oregano.
in water. This means that you can
soak the beans, pour out the soaking
Hummus
water, and down the drain go most of
VARIATIONS
the undesirable gas producers . Then
Substitute chick-peas for beans.
add fresh water, cook the beans, and
goodbye troubles for most bean
Bean Brandade
Puree of beans with a Mediterranean
eaters.
accent
Eggplant Caviar
"But doesn't this also drain the nutri-
This wonderfully heady puree and
ents out of the beans?" ask some nu-
the variations that follow are all Scoop out the flesh of steamed
tritionally anxious cooks. There is·
much the same, whether made of eggplant (page 29 I), and saute in
but a minimal loss, say the scientists.
beans, chick-peas, cooked eggplant, olive oil to evaporate excess moisture
However, if you are prone to gastric
or salt cod. Serve them as a dip with until it has enough body to hold its
distress and have had to avoid beans,
chips or crackers, or as a filling for shape in a spoon. Substitute for beans.
- what other choice is there? Besides, if
hard-boiled eggs, or as one element
there is some minimal loss of nutri-
in a cold salad plate. They are defi-
ents, simply eat a minimally larger
nitely free-form, and this formula is
servrng.
only a suggestion. Brandade de Morue
Provenc;al puree of salt cod and potatoes
The recipe for this marvelously pun-

gent dish is in the fish chapter on
page 132.
All-Season Bean Salad

Beans take well to salad dressings,
herbs, peppers, onions, and garlic,
but be sure to warm the beans before
dressing them so they will absorb
these added flavors.
For 6 to 8 servings
3 cups of warm home-cooked beans,

or canned beans such as
cannellini
3 Tbs finely minced onions or
scallions
1 large clove of garlic, pureed and
then mashed with ¼ tsp salt
2 Tbs or so good olive oil or salad oil
Herbs, such as fresh or dried thyme,
oregano, and sage
Additional elements, such as one or
a combination of: strips of red or
green bell pepper or pimiento;
hard-boiled eggs; rounds of red
onion; sardines, tuna, and/or
salami; spinach leaves or salad
greens
Flavoring the beans. Toss the warm

beans in a big bowl with the onions
or scallions, garlic, several table-
spoons of oil, herbs, salt, and pepper
to taste. Let stand 3 0 minutes, toss-
ing several times, and correcting the
All-Season Bean Salad seasomng.
Serving. Build an elaborate composi-

tion with eggs, sardines, and so
forth, or use a simple decoration of
spinach leaves, strips of red pepper
or pimiento, and onion rings.
Boston Baked Beans

And the brown bread to go with them
The Boston baked bean is a story in

itself, cooked long and slow, so that
the beans literally caramelize in their
juices . This is my favorite carefree
cooking system, and the only one I've
. used since the day it was suggested to
me by- a kind reader a number of
years ago. No soaking, no fussing,
just dump everything into the pot
and away you go; come back the next
morning and the beans are done.
For about 2 quarts of beans, serving 6

to 8
A 2-inch square of salt pork (6 to 8

ounces)
2 cups small white beans, well
picked over and washed Ingredients for Boston Baked Beans
5 cups water
1 ½ tsp salt
1 cup finely sliced onions When all is in, cover the pot, and Boston Brown Bread
2 large cloves of garlic, minced bring to the simmer; cook with low
2 Tbs dark unsulfured molasses heat (250°F to 27 5°F), either in the Brown bread is quick to mix, but has
2 Tbs Dijon-style prepared mustard slow cooker or in the oven. The a long, almost unattended 3-hour
½ tsp thyme beans should barely bubble, and will steam. Its taste is all its own, slightly
2 imported bay leaves take 12 to 14 hours. Look at them sweet because of its molasses and rai-
½ Tbs grated fresh ginger once in a while to be sure all is sins, and definitely sturdy with its
6 grinds of pepper well-they may need a little bit of base of cornmeal, rye meal, and but-
boiling water. They are not done un- termilk. Besides being a perfect
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: til they have turned a dark reddish match for baked beans, it toasts and
A slow cooker, or a 3 -quart bean pot or brown. Correct seasoning. butters beautifully when served for
heavy casserole tea, or for breakfast. The following
*Ahead-of-time note: May be baked a recipe, an adaptation from that great
Cut the salt pork into strips 3/s inch day or more ahead, and reheated. American culinary bible The Joy of
thick (leave on the rind). While you Cooking, is my favorite.
are assembling the other ingredients Serving. Serve them, in the good old
in the pot, simmer the pork 10 min- Boston tradition, on Saturday night For 2 cylindrical loaves baked in ] -
utes in 2 quarts of water; drain, rinse with coleslaw ( page 3 7 5), and Boston pound coffee tins
in cold water, and add to the pot. brown bread, the following recipe.
1 cup yellow cornmeal
1 cup each rye flour and whole
wheat flour
2 tsp baking soda
Boston Brown Bread (continued) Steaming. Place the tins on the rack
in the kettle, pour in 2 inches of SPECIAL NOTE
1 tsp salt water, and bring to the boil. Cover
2 cups buttermilk the kettle and weight it down for a Herb Bouquet
¾ cup dark unsulfured molasses in a tight seal, using canned goods or To flavor soups, sauces, braises
4-cup measure bricks. Reduce heat and let steam
1 cup black raisins, roughly chopped slowly about 3 hours , adding more An herb bouquet is a combination of
2 Tbs softened butter, for greasing water to the kettle as necessary. The herbs, the traditional being thyme,
tins and foil breads are done when risen almost to parsley with its long stems attached,
fill the cans and the centers have and imported bay leaf. However, you
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: may also include garlic, or other
puffed slightly-if the centers re-
A large ( 6- to 8-quart) mixing bowl; a herbs such as savory or oregano, and
main unpuffed, cover and steam 15
stout wooden spoon; 2 well-buttered I- spices such as cloves or juniper
minutes or so more. Let cool 20
pound cylindrical coffee tins; two 6-inch berries.
minutes in the can before unmolding.
squares of aluminum foil; white cotton
string; a kettle with rack and tight- You tie them together so they will
Serving. Serve hot, warm, cold, or
fitting lid, for steaming toasted. Cut like a sausage, into slices stay in a bundle and be easy to re-
½ inch thick, using a serrated bread move after cooking. If the herbs are
The batter. Blend the cornmeal, fresh, fold the parsley around them
knife-Mrs. Joy of C. and Fannie
flours, soda, and salt in the large and tie with white string . If they are
Farmer suggest cutting warm brown
mixing bowl. Gradually whisk the bread with a piece of tough string. loose like dried thyme or allspice ber-
buttermilk into the molasses, then ries, wrap them in washed cheese-
Serve with regular or whipped but-
vigorously blend the liquids into the ter, or, for a change, cream cheese. cloth before tying.
flours with the wooden spoon. Beat in
the raisins. Pour the batter into the A small bouquet would include 4
coffee tins. Butter the squares of foil parsley sprigs, a small bay leaf, and
and tie them securely over the tops of Lamb Shanks and Beans ¼ teaspoon of thyme.
the tins with the string .
Lamb shanks braised in a winey herb- A Note on Bay Leaves. I specify ((im-
al sauce, page 241, are finished off ported" bay leaves because California
with cooked or canned beans, which bay has, to me, a disagreeably strong
absorb that heady flavor. and oily flavor. Quite different is the
true culinary bay, Laurus nobilis; al-
though it may be grown anywhere, it
is usually imported from the Medi-
terranean area. You'll find it de-
scribed and illustrated in color, along
with hundreds of other herbs, in Les-
ley Bremness's handsome and won-
derfully authoritative The Complete
Book of Herbs (New York: Viking
Studio Books, 1988).
hU
m
LENTILS Ill MASTER RECIPE *Ahead-of-time note: Lentils may be
cooked in advance and kept 2 to 3
Lentils, a little more subtle and sub- Cooked Lentils days in their cooking liquid; cover
tly different in flavor than most To serve whole as a vegetable or in salads and refrigerate when cool. Note that
beans, go wonderfully well with the cooking liquid is particularly full
lamb, either roast or braised, and Lentils have so much flavor of their of flavor, and is a fine base for meat,
with sausages and ham. They are, in own, and other flavors will be added bean, or lentil soups.
addition, pleasantly satisfying just by when they are served, that I do not
themselves or in combination with include aromatic vegetables and herbs
such other hearty vegetables as car- during their initial cooking. How-
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
rots, turnips, and onions. Lentils are ever, if you wish to add them, follow
quicker to cook than beans , and the the suggestions for open-pot beans on
Lentils M aitre d'Hotel
modern lentils have been processed page 332.
for relatively fast cooking. However,
Lentils tossed in butter with garlic
if I want them to remain whole, I am For about 4 ½ cups of cooked lentils
and herbs: follow the directions for
careful to keep them just below the 1 ½ cups brown lentils Beans Maitre d'Hotel on page 3 3 2.
simmer since they can disintegrate
6 cups cold water
during an actual boil.
1 ½ tsp salt
LENTIL VARIETIES. L entils not only
come in colors such as brown, green,
Washing and soaking. Turn the lentils Lentil Puree
into a sieve and pick them over thor-
red, and orange, but there are many
oughly to remove any pebbles or Follow the general directions for
varieties of lentils, and new processes
other debris; run co-ld water over Puree of Beans on page 3 3 3.
have appeared to make the lentil an al-
them. Turn them into a 3-quart
most instantly cooked vegetable. Since I
saucepan, pour in the 6 cups of cold
am not writing a treatise on this nutri-
water, and let soak for 1 hour. They
tious and protein-rich subject, I shall
consider only the common brown lentil
are ready to cook when you bite into Lentils with Braised Lamb
and the smaller common green lentil,
a few and there is a crunch but no Shanks
brittleness at the center.
both of which take to the conventional
methods described here. Substitute lentils for beans in the
C ooking-12 to 15 minutes. Add the braised lamb shanks recipe on page
TO SOAK OR NOT TO SOAK. On most salt, and bring the lentils to the sim- 241.
contemporary lentil packages the direc- mer in their soaking water. Maintain
tions say soaking is not necessary, and uncovered at just below the actual
that is certainly true for soups and pu- simmer-a slight movement in
rees. However, I have had better luck, barely bubbling water. Skim off sur-
when I want them to remain whole, if I face scum which will accumulate
give them an hour's preliminary soak in shortly after the below-the-simmer is
cold water. reached. The lentils are done when
tender throughout but they still hold
their shape. This takes fairly constant
watching and tasting, but that's a
small price for perfectly cooked
whole lentils.
Dressing the lentils. Prepare the garlic SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:

vinaigrette sauce. Drain the warm A heavy-bottomed 3 -quart saucepan
lentils thoroughly, and fold them in with cover
the bowl with the sauce, tossing
gently. Correct seasoning. Let cool, Simmering the soup. Combine all the
and correct seasoning again before ingredients except the tomatoes, op-
serving. tional lemon, and parsley in a roomy
saucepan or kettle, bring to the sim-
*Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared mer, and skim off surface scum.
ahead to this point; cover and refrig- Simmer partially covered for about
Garlic vinaigrette for Lentil Salad
erate, but bring to room temperature 40 minutes, or until all vegetables
(to decongeal salad oil) before are tender. Discard herb bouquet.
Lentil Salad proceeding. Taste, and correct seasoning.
Although a first-rate potato salad is Serving. Either turn the lentils di- *Ahead-of-time note: May be cooked a
hard to beat on a picnic or barbecue, rectly into a salad bowl and decorate day or two in advance to this point.
a great lentil salad is both faster and the top with herbs and strips of pi- Cover and refrigerate when cool.
easier to make. miento, or be more elaborate with
green leaves, eggs, anchovies, and so Serving. Bring to the simmer, add
For 6 to 8 servings forth. the tomato pulp and simmer a mo-
ment more. Correct seasoning again.
¾ cup Garlic Vinaigrette Sauce
Ladle into hot wide soup plates; serve
(page 351)
with the optional lemon and a sprin-
4½ cups warm cooked lentils, well Lentil Soup kling of parsley.
drained (the master recipe)
Salt and freshly ground pepper Like split-pea soup, lentil soup
Optional other additions, one or two, couldn't be easier or more satisfying,
VARIATION
or all and the lentils need no soaking.
Spinach leaves or salad greens Puree of Lentil Soup
Hard-boiled eggs For 2 quarts, serving 6
½ cup finely minced scallions or red 6 cups lamb broth (page 215), or For 2 quarts
omons beef stock or ham stock
Ingredients for the preceding lentil
Tuna, anchovies, and/or sardines ½ cup lentils, picked over and
soup
Strips of red pimiento washed
Green and/or black olives ½ cup each: diced onions, turnips,
Complete the cooking and reserve, if
Minced fresh parsley and/or other and carrots
you wish, 1 cup of the lentils and
herbs A medium herb bouquet, page 336,
vegetables. Puree the rest of the soup
plus a small handful of celery
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: in a food processor or vegetable mill.
leaves and 2 large garlic cloves
A 3 -quart mixing bowl for dressing the Bring the soup again to the simmer,
lentils; a salad bowl or platter add the reserved vegetables, and
1 or 2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded,
serve as for the preceding recipe.
juiced, and diced
Slices of lemon, or lemon wedges,
optional
3 Tbs chopped fresh parsley
THE THREE KERNELS SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:

Bacon and the Three Kernels
A pressure cooker
WHEAT BERRIES, BARLEY, AND
For 6 servings
BROWN RICE
The wheat berries. Turn the wheat
berries into a sieve, pick them over 4 or 5 strips of thick-sliced bacon
This unusual whole-grain combina- carefully, and run cold water over 2 or more Tbs bacon fat or butter
tion has an attractively earthy flavor them. Turn them into the pressure The master recipe for the 3 kernels,
and is pleasantly chewy but not too cooker with the 3 cups of water, and cooked and drained
much so. It's healthy food, in other bring to 15 pounds pressure for ex- Salt and freshly ground pepper
words, but it also makes good eating. actly 3 minutes. Let the pressure go
Serve it as is, or with sausages, down by itself- IO minutes or so. Cut the strips of bacon into 3 length-
broiled chicken or rabbit, or pork wise, then into crosswise dice. Saute
chops. Finishing the cooking. Pick over and in a frying pan to brown and crisp
wash the barley and brown rice; add lightly. Strain, then toss the bacon in
to the wheat berries along with the paper towels. Heat 2 or more table-
chicken broth. Simmer, partially spoons of the bacon fat or butter in a
Purchasing note. You should be covered, for 10 minutes; add 1 tea- frying pan, add the cooked and
able to buy these grains at any health spoon of salt, and continue simmer- drained kernels, and saute several
food store. ing 10 to 15 minutes, or until the minutes to evaporate excess moisture.
kernels are the texture you like: they Fold in the bacon, season to taste,
should have a reasonable chewiness, and serve.
but be pleasantly edible. Uncover
Manufacturing note. I would not and boil off excess liquid. Season to
attempt this without my trusty taste.
pressure cooker, since open-pot Tomatoes Stuffed with
boiling of wheat berries can be *Ahead-of-time note: May be cooked a Three Kernels
endless and sometimes futile. day or more in advance. When cool,
cover and refrigerate. For 6 servings
6 fairly large red ripe firm tomatoes

414
Iii MASTER RECIPE Salt and freshly ground pepper
¾ to 1 cup grated Jack or
SERVING SUGGESTION S
mozzarella cheese
To Cook the Three Kernels
Three Buttered Kernels The preceding recipe for Bacon and
the Three Kernels
For about 5 cups, serving 6 to 8
2 or more Tbs butter A little olive oil
1 cup wheat berries The preceding three kernels, cooked
3 cups w ater SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
and drained
½ cup barley grains A melon baller or teaspoon for cleaning
½ cup brown rice out tomatoes; an oiled baking dish to
1 cup chicken broth hold them
Heat the butter in a frying pan, fold
Salt and freshly ground pepper in the cooked kernels, and saute sev-
(continued)
eral minutes to evaporate excess
moisture. Season again to taste, and
serve.
Tomatoes Stuffed with Three Kernels Two ideas for canned hominy Salt and freshly ground white pepper
(continued)
A speck of nutmeg
½ cup lightly pressed down grated
Filling the tomatoes . Core a top out of
Swiss or Cheddar cheese
the stem end of the tomatoes, scrape Hominy Sauteed with Butter
out the ribs and seeds, salt and pep- and Herbs ¼ cup additional grated Swiss or
per lightly, and let drain upside down Cheddar cheese
5 minutes or so. Meanwhile blend This is about as easy as they come-
the cheese into the 3 kernels (the SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
the quintessential hominy; serve it
cheese holds the kernels together), A shallow buttered baking and serving
with fried or broiled chicken, pork
and correct seasoning. Brush the out- dish, approximately 8 by 12 inches
chops, or ribs.
side of the tomatoes with oil, and
mound the kernels into their cavities. The hominy and sauce. Drain the
For 6 to 8 servings
Arrange them in the baking dish, hominy and wash under cold water;
and top each with a drizzle of olive Two I-pound 14-ounce cans of set aside. Meanwhile, make 2 cups of
oil. white hominy standard cheese sauce (cook the butter
2 or more Tbs butter and flour together without coloring;
*Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared Salt and freshly ground pepper off heat blend in the hot milk, sea-
in advance to this point. 2 to 3 Tbs chopped fresh parsley, son, and simmer 3 minutes; let cool
basil, chives, or a combination for 2 minutes; fold in the cheese.
Baking-20 minutes at 400°F. Bake Full details on page 2 7 2).
in the upper middle level of a pre- Drain the hominy in a large sieve,
heated oven until the toppings have and run cold water over it to remove Assembling. Spoon a thin film of the
browned lightly, and the stuffing has the taste of the can. Shortly before sauce into the baking dish. Pour in
heated through, but the tomatoes still serving, heat the butter to bubbling the hominy and cover with the re-
hold their shape. Serve reasonably in a roomy pan, fold in the hominy, maining sauce, shaking the dish so it
soon, since the tomatoes may over- and toss over moderately high heat to will sink into the kernels. Spread
cook and collapse if kept too warm. warm through. Season to taste with with more grated cheese.
salt and pepper, toss with the herbs,
and serve. *Ahead-of-time note: Set aside until
shortly before serving.
HOMINY AND GRITS
Baking. About 25 minutes before you
Those of us who did not grow up in
Hominy au Gratin wish to serve, set in the upper third
the South are inclined to forget about level of a preheated 425°F oven and
When you want a more elaborate bake until bubbling hot and the top
hominy, or "samp," as it is sometimes
presentation, bake the hominy in a has browned nicely.
called. Hominy, with its own very
cheese sauce, and serve with your
individual taste, is dried kernels of
best ham burgers.
corn treated in a special way, with the
seed-germ and outer skin removed.
For 6 to 8 servings
You can buy either coarsely ground
dried hominy, known as grits, or Two I-pound 14-ounce cans of
canned whole hominy, all plumped white hominy
up and ready to go. Either way, it is
The cheese sauce
an inexpensive, nourishing, and in-
teresting change from the usual 3 Tbs butter
starchy vegetables. ¼ cup flour
2 cups hot milk
Ingredients for Hominy au Cratin
Hominy Grits pan, and set the grits pan in it. The polenta mystique
Cover, and cook ½ hour or more,
stirring up occasionally until the grits 0 Id-school-tie Italian-grandmother
form a thick mass and are tender but polenta recipes call for drifting the
Grits au Gratin not mushy. cornmeal slowly into boiling water,
taking as much as ½ hour for a
It's the dried hominy this time, the Seasoning and assembling. Remove the lump-free mix, and stirri ng in one
grits. Although a cousin in taste of grits pan from its water bath and set direction only-no fudging! Then
the preceding dish, this is somehow a over moderate heat. Season the grits you stir, and stir, and stir, and keep
little more elegant, and goes beauti- carefully to taste. Beat in the cream on stirring for 45 minutes. It is fi-
fully with a roast of lamb, for in- and simmer, stirring, for several nally done when the spoon can be
stance. Or it might be the mainstay minutes to rethicken the hominy. Re- stood upright in the middle of the
of a vegetable dinner. move from heat and beat in the eggs pan.
one by one, then 1 cup of cheese.
For 6 to 8 servings Correct seasoning again. Turn into This is certainly one way of keeping
For cooking the grits the baking dish, and spread the re- grandmothers busy, and in the old
2½ cups regular hominy grits (for maining cheese over the top . days when all generations li ved to-
"instant" grits, follow package gether under one roof, giving grand-
directions) *Ahead-of-time note: Set aside until mother her special and sacred task
10 cups cold water shortly before serving. was undoubtedly a clever move . Per-
1½ tsp salt haps the continual stirring produces a
4 Tbs butter Baking-45 minutes at 425°F. Set in tenderer, creamier polenta, as per-
the middle level of the preheated haps does the continual stirring of a
1 cup light cream or sour cream oven and bake until bubbling hot and risotto. But I do not have that fine an
3 "large" eggs the top has browned lig htly. Italian palate to taste the difference.
1 ½ cups coarsely grated Cheddar Stir and stir and stir if you wish , par-
cheese-I cup into the grits; ½ ticularly if you love to stir for its own
cup for topping sake.
POLENTA AND
CORNMEAL DISHES
A heavy 4-quart saucepan with cover,
for initial grits cooking; a larger pan to Cornmeal n oles. If you cannot find
Polenta has a gastronomic ring to it.
hold the first, for final cooking; a but- an Italian source for polenta meal ,
But how about cornmeal mush? Po-
tered baking and serving dish, such as a try a health-food store, where you
len ta is, of course, cornmeal mush ,
rectangular one 8 by 12 inches will find stone-ground yellow
but thought of and served in an adult
manner. It is the perfect dunk for a cornmeal; choose the coarse or
Cooking the grits. Place the grits in medium grind for best texture and
fine meat sauce, like that in a lamb or
the 4-quart pan and whisk in the flavor. By the way and in my
beef stew, or a wonderful bed for
water. Bring to the boil over moder- experience, "instant" polenta meal,
small roast game birds and their
ately high heat, stirring frequently even if "made in Italy," does not have
juices. It is also good indeed by itself
with a wooden spoon to blend and to the quality of the real thing.
as a first course, poured hot onto a
prevent scorching. Add the salt and
serving board, doused with butter
butter, and stir over moderate heat
and cheese, and cut into steaming
for 5 minutes or more, until the grits
wedges. As a main-course luncheon
have thickened and hold their shape
or supper di sh you'd need only a big
softly in a spoon. Bring an inch or so
salad, then , and a simple red wine.
of water to the simmer in the larger
iii
Ill MASTER RECIPE SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
A serving board or platter about 16
Cooked Polenta inches in diameter; a large rubber spat-
ula for spreading; a serving spatula or
For about 6 cups, serving 6 a pie server
2 cups yellow cornmeal (see
preceding notes) Have the butter and cheese ready to
6 cups cold water, plus more if go. Pour the steaming polenta onto
needed the board or platter and spread it out
2 tsp salt, or to taste into a circle or oval with the spatula,
I . Pouring the steaming polenta onto a board
step 1. Rapidly make cross-hatchings
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: 1 inch apart on the surface; dot with
A heavy 3 -quart saucepan with cover; a the butter and spread on the cheese,
wire whisk, a stout spatula or spoon; a step 2. Cut into wedges, and serve at
larger pan with 1 inch of simmering once.
water, to hold the polenta pan
The initial cooking. Measure the corn-

meal into the 3-quart saucepan and Polenta with Cream Cheese,
gradually but vigorously whisk in the Lorenzo
water, being sure there are no lumps.
Add the salt and bring to the simmer, The irresistible combination of warm
2 . Butter and cheese go over the polenta before
whisking and then stirring with the serving.
polenta and cool moist cream cheese
wooden spatula or spoon as the mix-. is a specialty of a proud Italian cook
ture thickens into a heavy mush. we know from Santa Barbara.
SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Continue stirring over moderate heat
for 5 minutes. For 6 servings
4 ounces cream cheese

Final cooking. Then cover the pan Polen ta Family-Style ½ cup sour cream
and set it in the larger pan of sim-
The master recipe for hot just-
mering water for 45 minutes, stir-
This is a wonderfully informal and cooked polenta
ring frequently and adding spoonfuls
undoubtedly the best way to serve
more water only if the mixture be-
freshly cooked polenta. Blend the cream cheese and sour
comes so thick you have difficulty
cream in a bowl. At serving time,
stirring. When the 45 minutes are
For 6 servings pour the steaming polenta out onto
up-they are needed to cook the
the board, and, rather than spreading
cornmeal thoroughly and to give it 4 or more Tbs butter, cut into ½-
it out, cut it into fat serving portions.
the correct consistency-the polenta inch dice
Rapidly make a wedge in the center
should be a very thick, almost gelati- 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
of each, and plop in a generous
nous mass. If not, remove the po- The preceding just-cooked polenta
spoonful or two of the cheese mix-
lenta pan from its water bath and stir
ture. Serve at once.
over moderate heat until it is well
thickened. Serve according to one of
the following suggestions.
*Ahead-of-time note: For later serv-

ing, cover and keep over almost sim-
mering water; stir frequently.
Polenta Baked with Cheese
This is useful for ahead-of-time serv-

ing as well as for leftovers.
For 6 servings
The recipe for Polenta F amily-Style

Grated Parmesan cheese
Let the polenta with its butter and

cheese topping cool for an hour or
more , until cold and firm. C ut it into
wedges and arrange slightly overlap-
ping in a buttered baking dish or on
a buttered pizza pan ; sprinkle on a
little more cheese.
*Ahead-of-time note: M ay be prepared

even a day in advance ; cover and
refrigerate.
Sauteing polenta cakes
Baking. Bake in the upper m iddle
level of a preheated 4 00°F oven fo r
25 to 30 minutes , until the top has Polenta Galettes Forming the galettes. Spread out the
browned lightly. polenta 3/s inch thick on your work
In the form of cakes or other shapes, surface, smoothing the top with a wet
polenta makes a rather formal accom- spatula. Let cool for an hour or
paniment on the dinner plate with more , to firm up. Cut into shapes
VA RIATION such as rounds, triangles, and/or
roasts and ragouts . And, of course,
with bacon and eggs for breakfast, squares.
P olenta au Gratin
we would call it fried m ush. Again ,
P olenta baked with eggs, sour cream, *Ahead-of-time note: May be formed a
and cheese since this is useful for leftover po-
lenta, I am not giving exact day or more in advance; cover and
proportions. refrigerate.
Substitute cooked polenta , the master
recipe , for the grits in G rits au Cra-
For 2 galettes 2 ½ inches across per Sauteing. Just before cooking, heat ¼
tin on page 341.
serving inch of butter, oil, or bacon fat in a
frying pan, dredge the galettes in the
The master recipe for cooked flour, and saute over moderate heat 4
polenta (on the preceding page), to 6 minutes to a side, until lig htly
or polenta leftovers brown and crusty.
Clarified butter, cooking oil, or
bacon fat
Flour on a plate
Rhode Island Jonnycakes Cooking. Film the skillet or griddle Optional, but not for stuffings: 2 to 4
with the fat or oil, and set over mod- Tbs sugar
It would be a shame to leave out jon- erately high heat. When very hot but 1 Tbs fresh double-action baking
nycakes, a rustic version of the pre- not smoking, drop in spoonfuls of powder (see manufacturing note
ceding galettes, crusty on the outside the batter to make rather rough ovals above)
and moist inside. They are fast to ½ inch thick and 2 by 3 inches
make and go well with eggs, sau- across. Fry 4 to 6 minutes on each SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
sages, ham, and bacon . To make the side, until brown and crusty. Serve as A buttered or greased square 8 -inch
best possible authentic cakes, accord- soon as possible. cake pan; a food processor is useful but
ing to the natives of that state, you not essential
must have Rhode Island stone-
ground white cornmeal-or at least it The batter. Preheat the oven to 425°F.
should be stone-ground. The follow- Box-top Cornbread Whisk the egg, milk, and salt in a 4-
ing is adapted from the recipe given cup measure to blend. Measure the
out by The Society for the Propaga- Here is a good plain quick-to-make flour, cornmeal, and baking powder
tion_of the Jonnycake (P. 0. Box corn bread, typical of most box-top into the processor, then briefly pro-
4633, Rumford, Rhode Island recipes. However, they invariably cess in the liquid, adding the melted
02916), which would, incidentally, contain sugar, far too much in my butter, oil, or fat at the end. (Or
be delighted to put you in touch with opinion-for poultry stuffings, like place the dry ingredients in a big
the proper cornmeal . that on page 184, omit the sugar. mixing bowl; beat in the liquids and
melted butter, oil, or fat.)
For 6 to 8 jonnycakes Manufacturing note: For poultry stuff-
ings use 1 egg and 1 cup each of Baking-about 3 0 minutes at 425°F.
1 cup white cornmeal, stone-ground, cornmeal and flour; 2 eggs and 1¼ Immediately turn the batter into the
and from Rhode Island if possible flour to¼ cup cornmeal make a prepared pan, and bake in the middle
½ tsp salt lighter bread, and I prefer to omit level of the preheated oven.
1 cup boiling water sugar entirely in all cases. Be sure
3 to 4 Tbs milk or cream your baking powder is active, by the When is it done? The top will be a
1 tsp molasses, optional way-throw it out if a teaspoon of it pale brown, and the bread will show
2 Tbs or so bacon fat, ham fat, or does not bubble up almost at once in a faint line of separation from the
cooking oil half a cup of hot water. sides of the pan. Turn out onto a
rack.
1 or 2 "large" eggs (see
A 12-inch griddle or a heavy skillet
manufacturing note above)
1 cup milk
The batter. Blend the cornmeal and
1 tsp salt
salt in a bowl with enough boiling
2 cups mixed cornmeal and all-
water to make a very thick mush.
purpose flour (see manufacturing
Then beat in milk or cream and the
note above)
optional molasses until the batter is
2 to 4 Tbs melted butter, good fresh
the consistency of mashed potatoes.
cooking oil, or rendered fat-
chicken, duck, goose, turkey, or
pork or bacon fat
OTH ER R ECIPES USI NG COR NMEAL
Cornbread, sage, and sausage stuffing

for turkey, page 184
Corn Sticks (cob-shaped corn muf-

fins), page 59
Cornmeal pizza dough, page 54
Cornmeal in bread. ½ cup or more

cornmeal could certainly be added to
the whole wheat and rye bread for-
mulas on pages 44 and 46.
Cornmeal used for sliding risen

loaves of French bread dough into the
oven-pulverize dry cornmeal in the
blender and store in a screw-topped
jar, page 41 .
Julia looking at a display of potato dishes, taken on the set in Santa Barbara where the videotapes The Way to Cook
were shot
Salads
Green Salads, Salad Greens and
Salad Dressings
Composed Salads and What Goes

into Them
Pasta, Rice, and Bean Salads
Poultry, Meat, and Fish Salads
Cabbage, Celery, and Corn Salads
Salads can make a charming light be- how to make the best French dress- My hope is that when you have
ginning to a meal, a splendid main ing and how to be at ease with home- to wing it with what's on hand, this
course, or a welcome interruption to made mayonnaise. Also included are chapter will provide you with the
a succession of courses. such items as the best way to prepare know-how to create a salad that's a
Here we shall discuss how to duck for a warm duck salad, the key whole meal, and that will taste even
wash and store the greens, how to to the perfect chicken salad, the all- better than it looks. Let us start at the
deal with such fundamental ingredi- important pasta for those increasingly beginning, with salad greens.
ents as avocados, tomatoes, cucum- popular pasta salads, and such peren-
bers, parsley, and watercress, plus nial favorites as coleslaw and the all-
American potato salad.
SALAD GREENS AND Special Cases

GREEN SALADS
Crisphead or iceberg lettuce. In
spite of its doleful reputation, iceberg
R ed, green, and oak-leaf let-

tuce, escarole, curly endive,
romaine, butter lettuce, Boston let-
definitely has its place. The heads
have staying power in the fridge, and
when shredded into a fine chiffonade,
tuce, radicchio-to say nothing of iceberg makes a crisp base for other
sorrel, borage, baby spinach leaves, mixtures. Pick solid heads with green
arugula-I'm naming just a handful outer leaves. Remove any wilted
A salad dryer
of salad possibilities without mention- leaves, wash and dry the head, wrap
ing such others as edible flowers or loosely in slightly dampened paper
our stalwart old friend iceberg let- Washing. Cut the core or stem out towels, and refrigerate in a plastic
tuce . So many varieties and exotics of the head, separate the leaves, and bag.
are becoming available to us, even in drop them into a large bowl of cold
our local supermarkets, that I shall water. Swish about gently so the
detail only the basics. water enters each crevice, then let the
leaves rest a moment, allowing any Belgian endives, those fat, neatly
grit to sink down. Remove the leaves pointed, and expensive creamy white
one by one, tearing off any discolored spears, come packed between sheets
To Buy, Wash, Dry, and or wilted areas, and, if you are of blue paper. Pick heads that are
serving shortly, tear the leaves into definitely neatly shaped, and a fresh
Store Salad Greens
convenient size. creamy white with hardly a trace of
These directions are for the tender pale green. Pack them in slightly
butter or Boston lettuce types with dampened paper towels, and
overlapping leaves, the loose-leaf let- refrigerate in a plastic bag-they
Drying and storing the leaves. will keep several days. To use them,
tuces that bunch rather than head,
Wet greens wilt when stored, and wet shave off the discolored portion at the
and the long-leaf romaine varieties.
leaves dilute a salad dressing. The base, and wash the heads. Some
Carefully inspect each head of lettuce
old-fashioned method for drying cooks (but not me) core out a cone-
you buy, choosing only specimens
salad greens was to roll the leaves shaped ¼ inch at the base on the
that are fresh and crisp . If you won't
loosely between clean towels, or to theory that this operation will reduce
be preparing them at once, layer
swing them in a salad basket or their slight natural bitterness-do so
loosely in paper towels, very slightly
pillowcase. If you don't already have if you wish. To use endives in salads,
dampened if the greens seem un-
one, get yourself a modern salad either separate into leaves or slice
usually dry, and refrigerate in a re-
dryer, the kind with a salad basket them crosswise or into julienne. If
frigerator drawer or a plastic bag.
that spins off the water inside a you've never eaten cooked endives,
container. For short-term storage, by the way, try the buttery braised
wrap the dried leaves loosely in a whole endives on page 299.
clean towel and refrigerate in a
plastic bag. For longer storage,
arrange single layers of leaves
between paper towels in a deep tray,
and cover with plastic wrap; they'll
keep nicely for a day or two.
JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK SALADS 349
Watercress. Leave it bunched, and plain green salads, and as a special

swish in a basin of cold water, then flavoring , but it is a waste to use such
set it leafy head up in a plastic expensive oi l for sautei ng and regular
container. Add enough cold water to cooking.
come 1½ inches up the base of the
stems. Cover loosely with a plastic
bag and refrigerate. The cress will
keep for several days and even start Other o ils. Peanut oil, walnut oil,
to grow. avocado oil, neutral vegetable oils,
and so forth-it's up to you, but be
The best ingredients make the best dressings .
sure they are fresh, pure, and fine.
Often your best choice of these will
Parsley. Leave the parsley SALAD DRESSINGS be in a health-food store. A few
bunched, swish in a basin of cold drops of walnut oil or dark sesame oil
water, and let soak a few minutes, Often the plain and simple is the added to your other oil , for instance,
allowing grit to sink down. Lift it best, the formula that uses the best might be appropriate at times, and
out, and either spin it in a salad and freshest oil, the best vinegar, the for special effects.
basket or shake it dry. Wrap loosely freshest lemon . This is an especially
in paper towels and refrigerate in a self-evident truth when you are mak-
plastic bag. Very fresh parsley will ing a plain green salad, where every
keep 4 to 5 days when treated this flavor stands on its own. S tori ng oil. I keep olive oil in
way. Be sure the leaves are closed cans or corked bottles in a cool
thoroughly dry before chopping, or dark place, and have had no
your parsley will lump and be difficulties storing them for a year or
unsprinkle-able. Salad Oils more. Because some of the special
varieties like unprocessed fresh
Taste and smell your oil with great peanut, walnut , and avocado have
care to be sure it is fresh and fine, gone off in taste when left out, I now
Other green herbs. I have good because oils can turn rancid. There is refrigerate them.
luck storing basil-on-the-stem like nothing worse, to my mind, than a
watercress; other herbs I usually treat restaurant salad made with cheap off-
like parsley. flavor oil, or a stale bottled dressing.
Vinegars. With the exception of
cider vi negar on the great American
potato salad, imported plain French
Olive oils. I am an olive oil buff, red wine vinegar (Dessaux Fils,
and prefer the light but fragrant Dijon, usually) is my exclusive
French and Italian oils. When choice-my touchstone for all wine
looking for a good oil, try out several vinegars. I have had some excellent
brands to find the one you like , but California vinegars made by the
read the label before you buy: "pure" better wi neri es, as well as some with
is oil from olives all right, but it strange and pungent flavors. Again,
might well be the last of the line , test them out yourself. A few drops
extracted with a heated press. of balsamic vinegar may be
"Virgin" or "vierge" indicates the oil appropriate occasionally, but only the
came from the first cold pressing , barest few to my mind, because its
while "extra v irgin" is the first cold flavor is so pervasive.
pressing from specially selected
olives . Extra virgin is lovely for
Lemon. Lemon juice must always be

fresh, and for more zing you can SPECIAL NOTE Pureeing. 2. Pureeing with the flat of
mince or puree the zest (yellow part the knife: Sprinkle a big pinch of salt
of peel) into your sauce. To Mince or Puree Garlic over the minced garlic, and puree it
by pressing and rubbing the flat of
Knife method: R emoving the peel. your knife back and forth over it.
1. Smashing garlic clove to remove The garlic purees rapidly because the
Shallots ands calli ons. Finely peel: Place the garlic clove on your salt softens it and brings out its
minced shallots or scallions are often work surface, lay the fl.at of your big Jutces.
a welcome addition in a vinaigrette- knife on top, and smash it with your
but serve it shortly since their flavors fist, as illustrated. This loosens the Garlic press method. To make a
can go off after several hours. peel, which you then pick off and smooth paste of garlic, puree the un-
discard. peeled clove into a bowl. Mash and
rub it with a big pinch of salt against
Mincing. Then mince the garlic. the sides of the bowl with the back of
Garlic. The same applies to garlic: a spoon until perfectly smooth.
use a garlic dressing soon to retain its
fresh taste. To peel, mince, and
puree garlic easily, see the Special
Note on this page. You may want to
include a strip or two of lemon zest
while you are mincing and mashing
the garlic.
Mus ta rd. A teaspoon or so of the

Smashing garlic clove to remove peel Pureeing minced garlic with flat of knife
Dijon-type prepared mustard goes
well in a vinaigrette, and if you want
a creamy dressing, mustard helps
homogenize the ingredients. .0 MASTER RECIPE SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
A small mortar and pestle, or a heavy
Oil and Lemon Dressing bowl and w ooden spoon; a small porta-
ble beater or wire whisk
Proportions. Vinaigrettes, as For about 2/2 cup, enough for 6 to 8
dressings for green salads are usually servings Mince the lemon peel very finely
called, are made with all vinegar, or with the salt, scrape it into the mor-
2 strips of fresh lemon peel (1 by 2½
all lemon juice, or a little of both . tar or bowl, and mash into a fine
inches each)
Although standard proportions paste with the pestle or spoon. Beat in
¼ tsp salt, plus more, if needed
appear to be l part vinegar or lemon the mustard and 1 tablespoon of the
½ Tbs Dijon-type prepared mustard
to 3 of oil, I think this makes far too lemon juice; when thoroughly
1 to 2 Tbs freshly squeezed lemon
acid a mixture, especially when you blended start beating in the oil by
JUICe
are serving wine with the meal. I opt droplets to make a homogeneous
½ cup fine fresh oil
for the dry martini proportions, l to sauce-easier when done with a
Freshly ground pepper
5; but you must judge this yourself small electric mixer. Beat in droplets
for each salad. You can always toss in more lemon juice and salt and pepper
a little more lemon or vinegar if to taste.
needed, but it's hard to remove or
disguise an excess.
Emulsion note: Slow additions of oil Herb Vinaigrette

and constant beating make the emul-
sion here , and if the sauce doesn't Except for basil, which I think best
«take"-too bad-just beat it well minced then mashed with salt at the
before using . Or whisk in a spoonful beginning, stir other herbs like tarra-
of raw egg white, heavy cream , or gon, parsley, and chives into the fin-
condensed milk, which should bri ng ished sauce.
it together ; for security these could be
added at the beginning, with the
mustard.
ADDITIONS
Shallots or S cal/ions
OTHER METHODS OF MAKING THE
DRESSING
Omit the lemon peel, if you wish,
and stir a teaspoon or so of finely
The Screw-Top Ja r
minced shallot or scallion with the
salt and mustard. Proceed with the
Shake all the ingredients together in a A special presentation
recipe.
screw-top jar-easy, but it does not
make a permanent emulsion without
the previously described emulsion perhaps some watercress or arugula is
helpers. attractive, and you'll certainly want to
Garlic Vinaigrette mix in some tender other leaves when
you have such strong and slightly bit-
Mash and mince the garlic, then ter greens as escarole or mature curly
either mash it to a puree with the endive.
Oil the Leaves First
lemon peel, or alone with the salt.
Proceed with the recipe. WOODEN SALAD BOWLS. Wooden salad
Rather than making a dressing sepa-
bow ls are lovely to look at but unless
rately, start by tossing the greens in
properly cared fo r they can turn rancid,
their serving bowl with the oil-
and that horrid taste permeates the
which you can do well in advance.
GREEN SALADS whole salad. If you are using wood, be
Make the flavoring in a small sepa-
sure it has a waterproof interior finish
rate bowl and toss a good portion of
that can be thoroughly washed out.
it into the salad just before serving,
then taste a dressed leaf analytically, A MASTER RECIPE For 6 servings
and toss in more flavoring, salt, and
pepper as needed. I like this system 1 pound or so of salad greens, all one
Tossed Green Salad
for a plain tossed salad. kind or a mixture, washed and
dried as previously described
How much lettuce to use ? Play it by
% cup salad dressing, from one of
eye and by known appetites. A large
the preceding formulae
VARIATION head of Boston lettuce will weigh up
to ¼ pound and should serve 4 to 6, SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: A
V inaigrette while a large head of romaine will large salad bow l that w ill give you
weigh over 1 pound and serve 6 to 8. room to toss; a long-handled spoon and
Omit the lemon peel, if you wish, One of the loose-leaf varieties might fork
and substitute wine vinegar for all or weigh only ½ pound and serve only
part of the lemon juice. 2 or 3. Use all one kind, like Boston, (continued)
but a mixture of leaves including
Tossed Green Salad (continued) Caesar Salad

Romaine with egg dressing, Parmesan,
Shortly before serving, turn the and garlic croutons
greens into the salad bowl, pour on The kitchen version
half of the well-blended dressing,
and swoop up the leaves with the You don't have to make a production
spoon and fork, turning them over of this delicious salad, which makes
and over several times, and adding a an ample first course, or could be the
little more of the dressing as needed main course for a luncheon preceding
so all the leaves are lightly and uni- a soup, for instance. The antic table-
formly coated. Taste a leaf analyti- Salade Mimosa top version, however, appears in an-
cally; toss in more salt, pepper, other book-a dramatic public affair
vinegar, and lemon juice, if needed. where baby whole leaves of romaine
Salade Mimosa
Serve at once. are first elaborately tossed with olive
oil, then with seasonings; in go 2
A very simple and agreeable way to
VAR IATIO NS eggs, Parmesan cheese, and garlic
dress up a plain green salad-
croutons for a flourishing finale.
sprinkle on chopped hard-boiled egg
The Re-Formed Head and chopped herbs as follows. The
ANCHOVY NOTE. Caesar salad was
title is a poetic allusion to the yellow
In this attractive presentation, the created in the 1920's, by the way. Ac-
and green of a mimosa tree in bloom.
washed and dried salad greens are cording to Chef Caesar Cardini's
loosely arranged in the bowl to look daughter, with whom I talked at length
For 6 servings
again like a large head of Boston let- before doing the recipe for our TV show
tuce; the dressing is dribbled over the 2 hard-boiled eggs some years ago, the original contained
leaves just before serving. A handful of fresh green herbs- no anchovies. However, you may cer-
parsley, or a mixture such as tainly add them if you wish, mashing
parsley and chives, tarragon, or them into a puree with a bit of the olive
chervil oil and tossing them in before adding the
Salt and freshly ground pepper cheese.
The master recipe for Tossed Green
Salad MANUFACTURING NOTE. You w ill
hardly be a Caesar enthusiast if you've
Chop the eggs into small neat dice; dined only on restaurant varieties made
toss in a bowl with the chopped herbs with cheap oil, store-bought croutons,
and a sprinkling of salt and pepper. garlic powder, and old bottled cheese!
After dressing the salad, and just be- But what a marvelous salad it is when
fore serving, sprinkle the mimosa prepared with fine fresh ingredients.
over the salad-but do not toss it in.
For 6 servings
1 or 2 heads of fresh young romaine

(1 pound or so)
2 large cloves of garlic
About ¾ cup extra virgin olive oil
2 cups plain unseasoned homemade
croutons 3/s-inch size (see Special
Note on the next page)
2 eggs
Juice of 1 lemon
A few drops of Worcestershire sauce

¼ cup (1 ounce) best-quality SPECIAL NOTE SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
imported Parmesan cheese, A jelly-roll pan
freshly grated Toasted Croutons
Small cubes of white bread, lightly Preheat the oven to 3 2 5°F. Slice the
toasted crusts off the bread; cut the bread
Preliminaries .
into slices ½ inch thick. Cut the
The lettuce . Wash and dry the ro-
It is most important to get the right slices into strips ½ inch wide, and
kind of bread here, the homemade the strips into ½-inch cubes. Turn
maine. Break small leaves into cross-
type with body, such as the white them into the jelly-roll pan, and set
wise halves or thirds; separate large
sandwich bread on page 4 7. Croutons in the middle level of the oven for 2 0
leaves from their central rib, discard
from squashy limp bread disintegrate · to 3 0 minutes, checking and turning
the tough rib, and tear the leaf halves
into slime when they come in contact the cubes frequently, until they are
into halves or thirds. Place the ro-
with moisture-not a pretty sight! crisp and an even pale brown.
maine in your salad bowl, cover with
slightly dampened paper towels, and
refrigerate.
For about 2 cups *Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared
I loaf (4 by 4 by 12 inches) some- in advance. If not to be used shortly,
The garlic croutons . Mince and what stale-for easy cutting- store for a few hours in a warming
mash the garlic with ¼ teaspoon of homemade type white bread oven, or freeze.
salt, then with 3 tablespoons of the with body, unsliced if possible
oil. Strain into a small frying pan,
pressing the oil out of the garlic. Set
over medium heat; when hot, turn in
the toasted croutons, tossing and
turning them for a minute or so to
coat them with the oil. Drain on a and set aside. Pour the bacon fat into
Curly Endive with Bacon
plate lined with paper towels. a small bowl, wipe out the frying
and Garlic Dressing
pan, and return 1 tablespoon of clear
The eggs . Pierce the large ends of bacon fat to it. Puree the garlic,
This old favorite is coming back into
the eggs with an egg pricker or push- mash to a fine paste with ¼ teaspoon
vogue·, I noticed the last time we
pin, and lower them into a pan of of salt, and set aside.
were in France.
boiling water. Boil exactly 1 minute;
remove them and set aside. Assembling and serv ing. Just before
For 6 servings
serving, pour the oil into the bacon
*Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared 2 heads of curly endive fat, blend in the mashed garlic, and
several hours in advance to this 3 or 4 strips of thick-sliced bacon warm over moderate heat-but do
point. 1 large clove of garlic not let the garlic brown. Pour in the
Salt and freshly ground pepper wine vinegar, bring to the boil, and
Finishing the salad. Pour 3 to 4 table- 1 Tbs virgin olive oil pour over the salad, turning and toss-
spoons of oil over the romaine and 2 Tbs wine vinegar ing to blend, and adding several
toss to coat the leaves nicely. Sprinkle grinds of pepper as you do so. Toss
on ¼ teaspoon of salt, several grinds Preliminaries. Wash and dry the en- in half the crumbled bacon; sprinkle
of pepper, and toss again. Squeeze on dive, using the more tender leaves on the rest, and serve at once.
the lemon juice, add 6 drops of near the center if you have enough to
Worcestershire, break in the eggs, spare, and turn it into a salad bowl;
and toss to blend. Taste a leaf, and cover with damp paper towels and re-
correct seasoning. Toss briefly with frigerate until assembly time. Saute
the cheese, and finally with the crou- the bacon until lightly brown and
tons. Serve at once. crisp, crumble it into a small bowl,
VARIATION others are large, more rounded, and

a shiny green. Like pears, avocados SPECIAL N OTE
Curly Endive and Bacon with are picked when mature, but they are
Poached Eggs ripened off the tree. You can delay To open, peel, and slice
the ripening by storing them in the avocados
Serve the salad in individual bowls or refrigerator, or hasten it by leaving
on plates, and top each with a warm them at room temperature. (Although To open an avocado. Cut around it
poached egg-which dribbles deli- it is said that avocados ripen more lengthwise down to the seed, then ro-
ciously over the leaves as you break it quickly in a paper bag, I have not tate the two halves gently between
up with your fork. This makes an at- found the bag at all effective.) An your hands in opposite directions, to
tractive luncheon dish, served with avocado is ripe when it yields to separate them.
French bread or toasted English muf- gentle pressure if cradled in your
fins, perhaps a bit of cheese, and a hand. Once ripe, it will keep nicely To remove the seed. Plunk a big knife
cool white wine. in the refrigerator for two or three into the seed, twist the knife, and out
days. comes the seed.
For skinless avocado slices. Cut the un-

COMPOSED SALADS: peeled halves into quarters or thirds,
MAIN-COURSE SALADS Nutrition note. The average-size and then peel off the skin.
half avocado contains an estimated
13 6 calories, or 17 calories per slice, To prevent discoloration. Drop the
T his is a general introduction

to the main-course salad, a
freely constructed composition that
may contain any edible object, hot,
plus 8 essential vitamins and 5
minerals, and no cholesterol. In fact
avocados, and olive oil as well, are
mono-unsaturated-therefore good
pieces of avocado into a bowl of cold
water, drain, and place in a covered
bowl. I don't know why, and I wish I
knew where I heard or read about
warm, or cold. In addition to the for you. this system, but it works-and for
preceding greenery, here are other several hours.
standard salad elements.
Avocado Recipes
STANDARD SALAD You will find avocados listed in the

COMPONENTS index where they appear in salads and
appetizers. Though I have tried
cooking avocados-for instance,
beautifully arranged upon a quiche-
AVOCADOS
I find the taste of cooked avocado
musty and extremely unpleasant. I
Avocados of one variety or another have therefore been happy to leave Removing the seed from an avocado
are in season all year long. Some are this delicious object in the cold cate-
thick-skinned and pear-shaped with gory and offer my favorite guacamole
dark green, pebble-surfaced skin; recipe.
JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK SALADS 3 55
Guacamole CUCUMBERS
An avocado puree
Thank heaven cucumbers are avail-
You will .find all sorts of reasons to able all year round because it is hard
serve guacamole-for instance as a to think of a salad mixture without
cocktail dip, or spread on toast for them, and what a delight is a plain
breakfast or lunch, or as an accompa- cucumber salad on a warm summer
niment to egg dishes and as a side day. But cucumbers make a delicious
dish with hamburgers. And when cooked vegetable too, as described
you discover your avocados look a bit farther on, and in the vegetable chap-
Salad of green beans, fresh tomato relish, and mar-
bruised or are not otherwise suitable inated onion rings
ter beginning on page 296. Cucum-
for slicing because you forgot they bers are also happy with fish, and
were ripening on top of the refriger- vice versa-poached salmon with cu-
BEANS~GREEN BEANS cumber and sour cream sauce, for in-
ator, remember the guacamole.
stance, on the following page.
Preparing and cooking green beans
For about 2 ½ cups
are also given a thorough treatment
2 medium ripe avocados in the vegetable chapter, starting on
2 Tbs finely grated onion page 276. Lovely indeed is the cold, Buying and storing cucum bers
1 or 2 cloves of g_arlic, pureed into a bright green, perfectly cooked bean
very smooth mash (page 350) in a salad, but don't toss it in until Feel each cucumber all over care-
Salt and freshly ground pepper shortly before serving because too fully: it should be a fresh green
Olive oil long a dressed wait will fade its beau- color, firm to the touch; the skin
Freshly squeezed lemon or lime tiful color. should seem tight, and there should
juice be no soft spots anywhere. To keep in
Optional: chopped jalapeii.o pepper, the humidity, supermarket field-
minced cilantro, chopped fresh grown cucumbers more often than
tomato and/or tomatillos-or BEANS-DRIED BEANS not are sprayed with a nontoxic wax,
even bottled Tex-Mex chunky which means you'll want to peel
taco sauce Cooked or canned dried beans of all them. Top-of-the-grade cucumbers
colors and shapes make wonderful are no more than 2¼ inches in diam-
Seed and peel the avocados and place salads, especially if you dress them eter and 6 to 9 inches long. The
the flesh in a mixing bowl. Blend in while warm so that they absorb all long, thin, almost seedless unwaxed
the onion and garlic with a mixing the good flavors. Directions for the hot-house cucumbers, usually encased
fork (leave some texture-it should quick cooking of dried beans start on in plastic, are much milder (too mild
not be like smooth baby food), add- page 3 3 2, and there is a splendid all- for me!) in taste. Refrigerate cucum-
ing seasonings and other ingredients season bean salad on page 3 3 4, both bers in a plastic bag, where they will
to your taste to make a spicy, deli- to be found in the vegetable chapter. keep 2 to 3 days-but they will stay
ciously flavored concoction. Cover healthy a little longer at a cool-room
closely with plastic and refrigerate temperature of 45°F to 5 0°F.
until serving time.
*Ahead-of-time note: Guacamole will

darken in color after a few hours-
stirring it up helps the looks,
however.
Sliced cucumbers VARIATIO N S

SPECIAL NOTE
Peel the cucumbers or not, as you Sliced Cucumbers in Sour

To take the bite out of wish. Either slice them as is cross- Cream, Buttermilk, or Yogurt
cucum b ers wise, or halve lengthwise, scoop out
the seeds with a teaspoon, then slice Serve these as part of a salad combi-
Cucumbers don't agree with the them. See also the julienned cucum- nation, or as an accompaniment to
digestions of all diners, and, if you bers at the end of this section. broiled or poached fish steaks.
are one of those people, you may
wish to try one of these suggestions . For 4 to 6 servings
They came to me from kind readers
The preceding recipe for flavored
when I asked for help in a magazine To crisp cucumber slices.
cucumbers
article some years ago. One of these Refrigerate them for an hour or
½ cup or so sour cream, buttermilk,
conflicting theories may work for more in a bowl with ice and lightly
or yogurt, stirred to remove lumps
you. salted water. Drain well before
using.
After flavoring the cucumbers with
Cucumber skin. Leave on all or part
salt, vinegar, and sugar, refrigerate
of the green skin, since cucumber
them for 10 minutes or so. Drain
skin, some believe, contains a burp-
them, saving the juices, and fold in
discouraging enzyme. (But you will Flavored Cucumber Slices
just enough sour cream, buttermilk,
want to peel a waxed cucumber be-
or yogurt to enrobe them, adding
cause waxing gives the skin a dis- A little steeping in salt, vinegar, and
droplets of the juices if the mixture is
agreeable texture.) On the other hand a pinch of sugar brings out the cu-
too stiff. Fold in the dill or parsley, if
some theorists insist that you must cumber flavor. A fine beginning to
you wish.
peel off every part of green because it cucumber salads, and perfect diet
is the peel that makes the burp. food.
The naked rub. An unusual practice For 4 to 6 servings, about 3 cups

Julienned Cucumbers
that is sworn to by one group is this: 2 cucumbers 8 inches long
cut a slice off the vine end of the cu-
For a different look in cucumbers,
cumber, and rub the cut part with the The flavoring
peel, halve them lengthwise, and seed
cut part of that end; then cut a slice ½ tsp salt, or to taste
them; cut into lengthwise quarters,
off the other end of the cucumber and 2 tsp wine or cider vinegar, or to
then cut the quarters into 1½-inch
rub that with the original vine end. taste
lengths. Cut these into matchstick-
A scant ¼ tsp sugar
size julienne-great knife practice!
Soaking solutions. Another school ad-
1 Tbs chopped fresh dill or parsley, They are now ready to flavor as de-
vocates soaking sliced cucumbers in
optional scribed, and to serve in a salad or to
salt, others advise salt and vinegar,
saute.
still others suggest vinegar alone, and
Peel the cucumbers, if you wish,
a lone few swear by a dressing strong
slice them, and toss in a bowl with
with mustard.
the flavoring. Let steep for a mo-
ment, taste, and add a little more fla-
Cooking . When cooked, however,
voring if you feel it needed. Drain
there seems to be nary a burp for
before serving, and toss in the op-
most diners who feast upon them.
tional herb. You may wish to use the
steeping juices in whatever sauce you
are making.
Salad of Cooked Cucumbers TOMATOES

SPECIAL N OTE
Cucumbers with a difference-cook- Red , ripe, sweetly acid tomatoes are

ing softens them and subtly changes certainly one of the most prized of To Peel Tomatoes
their taste . These are also a welcome salad ingredients, and if we wanted to
solution for those who cannot stom- pay a large price, we could have per- Blanch the whole tomatoes-meaning
ach cucumbers in the raw state. fect examples all year round. The sad drop 2 or 3 at a time into a fairly
fact is that tomatoes are permanently large pan of rapidly boiling water,
For about 2 cups, serving 4 traumatized if they remain for more and boil exactly 10 seconds. Cut out
than a few hours at temperatures the core, and peel the skin down
2 cucumbers 8 inches long, and the from it.
lower than 5 5°F, whether in the field
flavoring ingredients in the master
or in storage . Afterward they may
recipe *Ahead-of-time note: You may blanch
turn red, and their interstices may fill
Light olive oil or other fresh cooking tomatoes several hours in advance,
with jelly, but their flavor will never
oil and peel them later-they keep
develop that real tomato taste. When
¼ to ½ cup heavy cream, optional fresher when still in their skins.
fully ripe, tomatoes still do not like a
cold climate; store them at 5 5°F or at
Preparing the cucumbers. Peel the cu-
cool room temperature, since they
cumbers and halve them lengthwise; lose flavor when refrigerated. To Seed and Juice Tomatoes
scoop out the seeds with a teaspoon.
Halve them again lengthwise, and In other words, the tomato is a per- Many recipes call for tomato pulp,
cut them on the slant into I-inch snickety being, and it is no wonder meaning you must seed and juice
lengths. Toss them in a bowl with the we can rarely buy a good one either your tomatoes. To do so, halve the
flavorings and let steep 5 minutes or in or out of season. In season the best peeled tomato crosswise ( not through
more; drain them well just before solution is to grow your own or to the core). Then, holding the half
proceeding. know a friendly gardener nearby; over a sieve set in a bowl, gently
greenhouse tomatoes are probably squeeze to dislodge most of the jelly-
Cooking. Warm the oil in a frying your best choice out of season-if like substance, juice, and seeds; fi-
pan, and add the cucumbers; toss and you buy them yourself or can find a nally, poke out the residue with your
turn over moderately high heat for market that knows how to handle little finger. Press the juices out of
several minutes until the cucumber tomatoes. the residue in the sieve and use in
pieces are barely tender. Correct soups or sauce, or as a refreshing
seasonmg. drink for the cook.
Serving. Cherry tomatoes
With herbs. Toss with the dill or Cherry tomatoes often have better fla-
parsley, and serve. vor than regular tomatoes, and that is
usually true out of season because
Or simmered in cream. Simmer for they are greenhouse grown. Keep
a few minutes with several spoonfuls them at room temperature. Wash
of cream, then toss with the minced them before using, and when cut in
fresh dill or parsley. half for serving they are certainly
easier to eat.
Seeding and juicing peeled tomato ha~ve5
To Chop or Dice Peeled SHALLOTS, SCALLIONS,

Seeded Tomatoes SPECIAL NOTE AND ONIONS
Tomates Concassees
Fresh Tomato Sauce Finely minced shallots or scallions
When you need a neat effect for deco- are almost a must in a dressing for
ration or special sauces, you want An excellent tomato sauce in or out of green beans or lentils , as well as
diced tomato pulp. First, using a po- season is essential to any good cook- being agreeable in a salad of mixed
tato baller, scoop the ribs out of the ing. In season, you will use ripe red greens. Do not let a dressing made
inside of the peeled and juiced tomato tomatoes full of flavor; out of season, with them sit around for long, how-
half, and cut these into neat dice. a mixture of fresh tomatoes and Ital- ever, or it and they will go off in
Then place the tomato half cut side ian plum tomatoes, as described on taste. Diced onions go in potato salad
down on your work surface and slice the following page. and coleslaw, and red onion rings are
into neat strips; cut the strips cross- decorative as well as tasty in many a
wise into neat dice. For about 2 ½ cups composed salad.
½ cup minced onions
2 Tbs olive oil
4 cups tomato pulp (out of season:
Suggestions for using diced half fresh and half canned To take the bite out of onions.
tomatoes tomatoes) Drop diced or sliced onions into
¼ tsp thyme boiling water for barely a second,
As a garnish for soups . Shortly before 1 imported bay leaf drain, and rinse in cold water.
you intend to serve, fold the diced to- 1 or 2 large cloves of garlic, pureed
mato into a finished soup, such as a Optional: big pinch of saffron
consomme or the beef and vegetable threads
soup on page 16; simmer a moment Optional: ¼ tsp dried orange peel Onions without tears. It's the
just to warm through. Salt chemical propanethial S-oxide that's
Freshly ground pepper the tear-producing villain here, and
As a garnish for sauces. Diced tomato onions are full of it. When that
is particularly attractive in white but- Cook the onions and oil in a 2-quart combines with the moisture of your
ter sauces and fish veloutes, giving covered saucepan stirring occasion- eyes it produces sulfuric acid, and it's
them not only color but a welcome ally, until tender but not brown-6 to no wonder we cry. But S-oxide's
lightly acid overtone. An example is 8 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes; cover power is soluble in water-therefore,
the butter sauce with the fish fillets and cook slowly several minutes. Stir peel onions under a running cold-
Duglere on page 9 1. in the herbs, garlic, optional saffron water faucet. And its effect is slowed
and orange peel; salt lightly to taste. way down by cold-refrigerate your
Simmer slowly, partially covered, for onions before slicing, if you've a lot
30 minutes, adding a little juice from of them to do.
the tomatoes if sauce becomes too
thick. Taste carefully and correct
seasomng.
*Ahead-of-time note: May be cooked

in advance and refrigerated; may be
frozen.
Marinated Onions
SPECIAL N OTE
A little extra flavor is hardly amiss

Fresh Tomato Relish *Ahead-of-time note: You may make when you are using onion rings in a
the relish an hour or so ahead if need
salad or fo r hamburgers.
Use this fresh and delicious combina- be, but the fresher it is the better.
tion with broiled fish, hamburgers, For 1 cup or so of onion rings
egg dishes, as a salad garnish-any-
where, in fact, that the fresh flavor of 1 large red or yellow onion, cut into
ADDITIONS A N D VARIATION S
tomatoes would be a welcome thin rings
accompaniment. A scant ¼ tsp salt
You may wish to fold in other ingre-
Several grinds of w hite pepper
dients like finely diced green bell
For about 1 ½ cups A scant ¼ tsp celery seeds
pepper, chili peppers, avocado , and
1 to 2 tsp w ine vinegar
4 ripe red tomatoes (see note on garlic-which will actually turn the ..
canned tomatoes following) relish into more of a salsa. SPECIAL EQUI PMENT SUGGESTED:
1 Tbs finely minced shallots or A mandolin or hand slicer is useful here
scallions
½ tsp or so red wine vinegar Assembling. Toss the sliced onions in a
1 Tbs virgin olive oil Fresh or Canned Italian Plum bowl with the salt, pepper, celery
Salt and freshly ground pepper Tomatoes seed, and vinegar. Taste analytically
Fresh basil leaves, if available, and 2 after a few minutes, and correct
Tbs minced fresh parsley Make the same general tomato relish seasonmg.
using all or part fresh plum toma-
SPECIAL EQUIPMEN T SU GGEST ED: toes, peeled and seeded; although *Ahead-of-time note: Cover and re-
A stainless sieve set ov er a bowl they do not have the tender texture of frigerate until you are ready to serve.
regular tomatoes, they usually have
Assembling. Peel , seed, and juice the more out-of-season flavor. And if Serving. Correct seasoning again.
tomatoes as previously described, your field or plum tomatoes lack You may wish to add the exuded
then fold them gently in a bowl with taste, the mixing in of some canned juices to whatever sauce or salad you
the shallots or scallions, vinegar, oil, plum tomatoes, although mushy, will are including.
and salt and pepper to taste. If you help give more interest-drain
are using fresh basil leaves , fold them, halve them lengthwise, gently
them in also . Let steep for 10 min- scrape out the seeds , and dice the
utes to blend flavors . pulp.
Finis!J,ing. Turn into the sieve to

drain. Return to the bowl , correct
seasoning (remove the basil, if you
wish), and fold in the parsley.
Cutting out the ribs for julienne
Slice off both ends of the pepper to

make a cylinder. Halve the pepper
lengthwise, and remove the seeds.
Lay a pepper half, skin side down,
on your work surface (halve it again
if it is too wide to work with); slice
off the ribs and any protruding flesh,
making an even strip. Cut the strip
into julienne.
A colorful group of bell peppers
BELL PEPPERS A Neat Julienne of Bell To Peel a Peck of Peppers

Peppers
Not so long ago it was only green The only way to peel peppers is to
peppers, and occasionally red pep- A julienne of fresh peppers, espe- blister the skin so that it rises off the
pers; one never saw or heard of them cially a mixture of colors, can look flesh and can then be stripped off.
yellow, purple, brown, orange, or elegant in a salad. I always had For just a pepper or two, you may
white. With such a proliferation of trouble cutting them into those long spear them one at a time with a 2-
colors is there a striped variety in our thin even matchsticks until caterer pronged fork, and turn them over a
future? Bell peppers are lovely in sal- Karyn Scott of Tucson showed me gas flame-or around a portable
ads-diced, julienned, or cut into this way, which she said she had blowtorch- until the ski n blisters all
nngs. learned from one of her chef over. Or roast them 3 or 4 at a time
associates. over a grill, turning another side to
the coals as each part blisters, or set
1 fine fresh firm bell pepper them under a broiler. While the rest
Buying and storing bell of the peck are on or under the fire,
peppers. Look over each pepper SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: rapidly cut the hot peppers in half,
carefully to be sure it has no pock A very sharp chef's knife with blade at remove the stem and seeds, and peel
marks or bad spots, and that it is least 7 inches long off the skin-do not delay since a
glossy and firm all over. Refrigerate blackened skin can eventually blacken
them in a plastic bag, and plan to use the flesh. (Although some practition-
them within 2 or 3 days, since they ers close the warm peppers in a paper
do not keep well at temperatures bag for 5 to 10 minutes before peel-
under 45°F. ing, I have never found that to be
necessary when the skins are well
blistered.)
A Salad of Peeled and POTATOES and if it's round and fat rather than
Roasted Peppers long and thin, cut it in half length-
There's hardly a soul alive , especially wise. Cut the potato into slices ¼
Peppers, olive oil, salt, and garlic are including me, who doesn't love po- inch thick, and drop the slices into
all you need for this simple savory, tato salad in one form or another. M y the pan of water, to prevent discolor-
which is something that will keep all-time favorite is the versatile so- ation while you prepare the rest.
several days in the refrigerator. Serve called French version, where warm
the peppers as they are to garnish a potato slices are seasoned very simply *Ahead-of-time note: It is best to cook
salad or broiled fish, or combine with vinaigrette- to go with hot them within ½ hour to prevent the
them with tomatoes, hard-boiled sliced sausages, cold sliced beef, may- possibility of their turning gray.
eggs, and anchovies for a perfect bis- onnaise, or as part of a combination
tro-type first course. like Salade Nic;oise. And I adore old- Cooking. Drain out the water, then
fashioned American potato salad. Al- add clean cold water to cover, and the
For 1 ½ to 2 cups though both appear in other books , I salt. Bring to the simmer, and sim-
cannot resist repeating the first be- mer 2 to 3 minutes, or until the pota-
1 clove of garlic-large, medium, or cause it is so useful, and the second toes are just tender-keep testing by
small because I love it so. T hey both start eating a slice to be sure. Crunchily
¼ tsp salt out the same way, with cooked potato undercooked potatoes are dreadful,
1/J cup virgin olive oil slices. and overcooked potato slices will
3 or 4 medium to large bell peppers, disintegrate.
peeled as in the preceding
directions, halved, and seeded Firming up. Drain out the cooking
. . MASTER RECIPE water (you may wish to use it for
soup or save a bit for the following
A garlic press is useful; a small mortar Cooked Sliced Potatoes salad). At once cover the pan and set
and pestle or a medium bowl and
for Salad aside for 3 to 4 minutes (but no
w ooden spoon
longer than 5), to allow the slices to
The easiest way to achieve cooked firm up. Then uncover the potatoes
Assembling. Puree the garlic into the
sliced potatoes is to slice them first and plan to season them while still
mortar or bowl, then mash into a before simmering them. You will of warm.
perfectly smooth paste with the salt. course get criticisms from those wor-
Whisk in the oil. Cut the peppers thies who say if you don't cook them
into 3/s-inch strips and arrange in whole you're throwing away the best
layers in an oval dish, spooning the parts, or you're losing nutrients, and/
dressing over each. Cover and let or you're wasting this or that, etc.,
steep 20 minutes, tilting the dish and none. of which I believe.
basting the peppers with their dress-
ing several times. Correct seasoning.
For about 1 quart
*Ahead-of-time note: Cover airtight 1 ½ pounds "boiling" potatoes, all the

with plastic wrap and refrigerate, same size and shape if possible
and the peppers will keep nicely for Salt-1 to 1½ tsp per quart of water
several days. Let warm at room tem-
perature for ½ hour or so before
A 3 -quart saucepan with tight-fitting
serving, to decongeal the oil.
lid; a vegetable slicer is useful
S !icing the potatoes. Fill the saucepan

half full with cold water. Wash the
potatoes. One at a time peel a potato,
TWO POTATO SALADS
In both of these the warm potatoes

are first steeped a few minutes with
seasonings and a little liquid, then the
oil or dressing is added. This not
only gives the potatoes a fine flavor,
but prevents them from drinking up
too much oil.
French Potato Salad
For about 1 quart, serving 6 in combi-

nation with other items
The preceding 1 ½ pounds warm

sliced cooked potatoes
2 Tbs finely minced shallots or
scallions
French Potato Salad
¼ cup chicken stock or potato-
cooking water
1 ½ Tbs wine vinegar
2 to 3 Tbs light olive oil, optional American Potato Salad Salt and freshly ground white pepper
3 or 4 strips of crisply cooked bacon,
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: Trying to come up with the best pos- crumbled
A roomy bowl for gentle tossing sible potato salad, we picked this to 3 hard-boiled eggs, diced
accompany a boned and stuffed ½ cup canned red pimiento, diced
Turn the warm potatoes into the bowl Chicken Melon on one of our "Com- 2 to 3 Tbs minced fresh parsley
and toss gently with the shallots or pany" TV series. It is still my ¾ to 1 cup homemade mayonnaise
scallions, a sprinkling of salt and favorite. (see recipe following)-½ cup or
pepper, stock or cooking water, vine- so to be folded into the salad; the
gar, and parsley. Let steep 10 min- For about 2 quarts, serving 6 to 8 rest reserved for final decoration
utes or so, tossing gently several Decorative suggestions: crisp salad
times. Then correct seasoning, toss Double the preceding master recipe
greens ; sliced or quartered hard-
with the optional oil, and the potatoes for warm cooked sliced potatoes
boiled eggs; parsley sprigs; strips
are ready for serving. % cup liquid-3 Tbs cider vinegar of red pimiento; green and/or
plus chicken broth or potato-
black olives; quartered tomatoes
*Ahead-of-time note: The potatoes will cooking water or halved cherry tomatoes
keep a day or two covered and under 1 cup finely diced mild yellow onions
refrigeration. If they are made with tossed with a big pinch of salt SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
2/3 cup finely diced tender celery
oil, let sit for ½ hour at room tem- A large bowl for gentle tossing
perature before serving. stalks
¼ cup finely diced dill pickle
Assembling. Turn the warm potato Adding the oil slowly at first. onions, on the other hand, will take,
slices into the bowl and toss gently Mayonnaise is an emulsion, meaning and even need, more pronounced
with the liquid, onions, celery, that egg yolks are forced to absorb oil tastes. For an all-purpose sauce, as an
pickle, and seasonings to taste . Let and to hold it in a thick creamy example, I use half to two-thirds
steep for 10 minutes, tossing care- suspension. For the emulsion process peanut oil and the rest is virgin olive
fully 2 or 3 times. When cool, toss to take place, you first process the oil.
with the bacon, eggs, pimiento, pars- yolks to thicken them, which
ley, and just enough mayonnaise to prepares them for the oil to come.
enrobe the potatoes lightly. Then you process in the oil a little bit
at a time at first, to get the emulsion .0 MASTER RECIPE
*Ahead-of-time note: Cover and re- going. When the mixture has begun
frigerate, and the salad will keep per- to cream and thicken you have won; Machine-Made Mayonnaise
fectly for 24 hours. you can add the oil a little more Using the food processor
rapidly and all is well as long as you
Serving. Check the salad for season- do not exceed the limit that the egg The beauty of your own mayonnaise
ing again . Line a serving bowl or yolks can absorb- 2/ J cup per yolk. is that you know exactly what is in it,
platter with the greens and mound Another caution-do not stop the and you can use the best and freshest
the potato salad upon them . Spread a machine until the emulsion is well oil, lemon, and/or vinegar.
thin layer of mayonnaise over the pounder way or the sauce may refuse to
tatoes and decorate the salad nicely thicken. For 2 to 2¼ cups
with eggs, parsley, and whatever else
1 "large" egg
you have chosen.
2 egg yolks
1 tsp Dijon-type prepared mustard
Don't worry. If the mayonnaise
½ tsp salt
refuses to thicken , or if it thins out,
2 tsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
MAYONNAISE that's easy to fix-see notes at the end
and/or wine vinegar
of the recipe. 1 ½ to 2 cups best-quality oil-
Handmade mayonnaise was one gas- peanut, olive, or other oil-all one
tronomic delight that many home or a mixture
cooks were afraid to tackle until the Freshly ground white pepper
appearance of the electric blender be- The plastic vs. the metal blade.
More mustard, salt, lemon juice and/
fore World War II, and until Anne The metal blade is so efficient that it
or vinegar, as needed
Seranne came up with the first fool- often makes too stiff a sauce, and
Droplets of sour cream, sweet
proof machine-made mayonnaise. you'll want to thin it out. The shorter
cream, or water-to lighten the
Now we have the food processor, and dull-edged plastic blade , however,
finished sauce if it is too stiff
mayonnaise is even easier to make by which is a little slower in action and
machine-though maybe no easier to takes a little longer to thicken the SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
scrape out! If you've not tried it in sauce, gives a more tender result-if A food processor (the plastic blade is
the processor you'll find, after a batch you can call a sauce tender! recommended but not essential); a p our-
or two, that you will confidently ing funnel is useful
whirl up half a quart or more of that
thoroughly addictive sauce in under 5 The egg base. Place the whole egg, the
minutes. Perhaps the following notes The oil to use. What is the yolks, and the teaspoon of mustard in
will tell you more than you wish to mayonnaise to accompany? Cold the container of the processor; pro-
know, but it may build up your confi- lobster or crab , for instance , would cess 3 0 seconds with a plastic blade;
dence to have some idea of how want a light oil , neutral in taste, with
things work. perhaps just a driblet of olive oil for (continued)
flavor. A salad strong with garlic and
Machine-Made Mayonnaise (continued) Green Mayonnaise

SPECIAL N OTE
15 with the steel blade. Add the salt You might serve a green mayonnaise
and lemon juice and/or vinegar and Storing Mayonnaise and with fish or eggs. To get that verdant
process 15 seconds with the plastic Trouble Shooting effect, blanch (boil briefly) for a few
blade; 7 or 8 with the steel blade . seconds until limp 1 packed cup of
Storing mayonnaise. Scrape the may- well-washed tender greenery such as
Adding the oil. With the machine onnaise into a screw-top jar, and put stemmed spinach and watercress,
running, start adding the oil, pour- in the refrigerator, where it will keep young sorrel, or chives and Italian
ing it in a thin stream of droplets- safely 4 or 5 days. Although lemon parsley. Drain. Run cold water over
keep your eye on the stream to be juice and vinegar discourage bacte- the leaves to set the color. Drain
sure it is going in very slowly. Keep ria, home-made egg sauces are prime again, and twist them hard in the
the machine always running , and breeding grounds for them unless corner of a clean towel to extract ex-
when you see that the sauce has thick- kept well chilled. Don't take chances! cess water. Puree the greens in a food
ened, you may add the oil a little processor with a tablespoon or two of
faster. Stop the machine after 1½ Trouble shooting. Suppose you happen mayonnaise; add the rest of the 1 to
cups or so of oil, and check on the to pour in the oil too quickly and the 1½ cups of mayonnaise and blend
sauce: if it seems very thick, add sauce won't thicken ? Or suppose it briefly with a pulse or two.
droplets of lemon or vinegar, and thins out? Or it separates? The pro-
taste it for seasoning. (You do not cessor won't fix it, but a wire whisk
need to use all the oil; if you like a or hand-held mixer will. Place ½
yellower sauce, for instance, 1½ cups tablespoon of prepared mustard in a Pimiento Mayonnaise
may be sufficient.) Continue with the mixing bowl, stir up the turned sauce
oil if you plan to use all of it. so that you will have both egg and It's mayonnaise of a pretty pink, with
oil, and add 1 tablespoon of the sauce a subtle new taste. This could be
Final flavoring . Taste the sauce care- to the mustard. Whisk them together served with cold poached eggs, hard-
fully for seasoning, briefly processing vigorously a few seconds until they boiled eggs, cold poached fish, cold
in more as necessary. If the sauce is thicken into a cream. Whisk in suc- breast of chicken, and cold
too stiff or thick, process in droplets cessive dribbles of stirred-up turned vegetables.
of cream or water. sauce until you have a good cup of
restored mayonnaise, then you may Drain ½ cup of the broiled and
add the turned sauce a little faster. · peeled red peppers on page 3 6 0, or
This always works, as long as you go bottled brine-cured red pimientos.
Additions and Variations slowly at first so that the emulsion Twist them in the corner of a clean
gets going again and the sauce really towel to extract as much juice as pos-
To change the taste and the view, starts to thicken. sible, then puree in a food processor
there are all kinds of garnishes to stir with a spoonful or two of mayon-
into a finished mayonnaise. Following naise. Add the rest of the 1½ cups of
are some examples. mayonnaise and, if you wish, 2 table-
Herbal Mayonnaise
spoons of minced parsley and/or
Stir fresh green herbs into the fin- chives; blend briefly with 2 or 3
ished sauce, such as finely minced pulses of the machine.
parsley, chives, chervil, basil, tarra-
gon- I or 2 tablespoons per cup of
mayonnaise.
J ULIA CHILD TH E WAY TO COOK SALADS 365
Lobster or Crab Mayonnaise L obster or crab salad. Halve and gredients; I am a g reat fan of his too,
hollow out hard-boiled eggs, fill with and he was a Nic;ois, after all. This is
Cold boiled lobsters and crabs pro- the sauce, and decorate with minced a fi ne exam ple, by the way, of how to
vide you with a special treat-the to- parsley and the chopped yolks. Or fill combine a number of good things
malley or green matter, and the roe. tomato shells with the sauce and deco- into a hap py whole, as well as into a
Blend it into mayonnaise and that rate with parsley. whole main course. Si nce Salade Ni-
shellfish will be even more delicious c;oise contains most of the elements
to eat. Or be stodgy, and pass the sauce in dealt with in the preceding recipes, I
a bowl. shall refer you back to them rather
Lobster Note: Be sure that your lob- than repeating everythi ng again.
sters come from a reputable dealer
and that they were gathered in a pol- MANUFACTURING NOTE. A bountiful
lution-free area . Salade Ni9oise arrangement in bowl or platter is so

handsome to behold that I think it a
For 1 ¼ to 1 ½ cups Some combinati ons become fa mous cruel shame to toss everything together
just because the m ixture was such a into a big mess. A careful presentation
2 to 4 Tbs tomalley or green matter, happy one that it has lived on and on , means more work, but it's easily man-
and the roe if you are so pleasing successive gener ations of ageable when you ready each of the nu-
fortunate, from cooked lobster or palates. Salade N ic;oise is certainly merous ingredients separately, which
crab (illustrated on page 105) one of these, and so famo us that ar- you can do well ahead. Season each just
1 to 1 ½ cups mayonnaise guments exist as to what is the real before assembling and serving, and you
Optional additions: 2 to 3 Tbs thing. Being a g reat fan of potatoes, will have the perfect Salade Nifoise.
minced fresh parsley; 1 Tbs finely beans, eggs, and tomatoes in a salad,
minced shallot or scallion; 1 Tbs I naturally opt for the Escoffier in- (continued)
minced capers (squeezed dry); 1
hard-boiled egg, finely chopped

A fin e-meshed sieve and w ooden spoon
for pureeing the tomalley
The mixture . Push the tomalley and

roe through the sieve to remove tiny
shell bits (the only way to get rid of
them) , and whisk the tomalley mix-
ture into the mayonnaise. Fold in any
or all of the optional additions.
Serving suggestions.
Whole or halved lobster or crab.

Spoon the mayonnaise, with or with-
out its optional additions, into the
cavity of the shellfish, and you might
decorate the top of the sauce with
minced parsley and chopped hard-
boiled egg .
Important elements in a Salade Ni~oise

Salade Ni~oise (continued) Suggested accompaniments-a one- A giant cream puff 15 or more
course luncheon menu. French bread inches in diameter ( the recipe on
For 6 to 8 servings and a fine soft-ripening cheese like a page 398, minus the sugar)
1 large head of Boston lettuce,
Brie or Camembert, and a dry white
washed and dried (page 348)
wine such as Alsatian riesling or a This is a free-form construction de-
light sauvignon blanc. You might fin- pendent upon the cook's whim and
2 to 3 Tbs virgin olive oil
ish with chocolate trufRes ( page 485) store of ingredients. For instance you
and coffee. might turn the tuna into a salad, mix-
1 ½ pounds fresh green beans,
trimmed, blanched, refreshed in ing into it 2 or 3 chopped hard-
cold water, and dried (page 276) boiled eggs, minced parsley, a little
2
/3 to 1 cup salad dressing, such as VARIATION
of the dressing, and several spoonfuls
the Oil and Lemon Dressing on of mayonnaise. Just before serving,
page 350, or its garlic variation N iroise Sa/ad Ring arrange the greenery in the bottom of
3 or 4 fine ripe red tomatoes, peeled the shell. Make mounds for each
if you wish, and cored, quartered, For a special luncheon or buffet, serving starting with a group of pota-
and seasoned before serving mound a modified N ic;oise salad in a toes topped with tuna; decorate with
8 to 10 ounces oil-packed tuna, giant cream puff shell. It makes a olives, capers, and strips of tomato,
drained and flaked conversation piece, and an edible green beans, and anchovies.
1 quart French Potato Salad (page container as well. How to serve it?
362) Cut the puff into portions with a ser-
8 hard-boiled eggs, halved lengthwise rated knife.
1 can flat anchovy fillets packed in SUBVARIATIONS
oil, opened and drained just
before serving The salad ring idea lends itself to all
½ cup black Ni9oise-type olives manner of combinations. For in-
3 or 4 Tbs capers stance you might line the bottom of
¼ cup minced fresh parsley the shell with shredded iceberg or ro-
maine, and construct mounds of
Assembling. Shortly before serving, beautifully seasoned chicken, turkey,
line a handsome, large and wide salad lobster, or crab salad. Or use the
bowl or a roomy platter with lettuce general outlines of the colorful Fish-
erman's salad on page 104.
leaves, drizzle a little olive oil on
them, and dust with a sprinkling of
salt. Toss the beans in a mixing bowl
with a little of the dressing, and cor-
Elegant Additions to
rect seasoning. Drizzle a spoonful or
two of the dressing over the toma- Composed Salads
toes. Season the tuna lightly with a
spoonful or two of dressing. Place Tiny asparagus spears vinaigrette, ar-
the potatoes in the center of the bowl tichoke bottoms sliced and steeped
Ni<;oise Salad Ring with oil and lemon, marinated raw
or platter; mound beans at strategic
intervals, interspersing them with to- mushrooms, vegetables a la Grecque,
matoes and mounds of tuna. Ring the For 6 to 8 servings fresh green beans tossed with shallots
salad with the eggs, and curl an an- and vinaigrette-and there are many
As many of the preceding Ni9oise others, too, that have nary a mention
chovy on top of each. Spoon a little
ingredients as you wish, or as in these pages. I don't have room for
more vinaigrette over all; scatter on
suggested in the recipe here everything, alas, and there are reci-
olives, capers, and parsley. Serve as
½ cup or so mayonnaise pes for them in many a cookbook, in-
soon as possible.
cluding others of mine.
PASTA SALADS AND Initial flavoring

RICE SALADS 1 large, medium, or small clove of
garlic, pureed, optional
P asta has outstripped potatoes as

a salad base, undoubtedly be-
cause pasta is so easy to prepare. Rice
1 Tbs or so virgin olive oil

is less usual than either, but turns it- A pasta fork, or a wire skimmer-scoop,
self into a salad in much the same or a perforated spoon and mixing fork;
way. In either case, think about to- a mixing bowl or salad bowl
Free-form composition with potatoes, eggs, tomato,
morrow or the day after when you're cucumber, chick-peas, tuna, avocado, and olives
cooking up pasta or rice for a hot Cooking the pasta. When the water in
dish, since the salad comes naturally the kettle is at a rolling boil, dump in
afterward. A MASTER RECIPE
the pasta, salt, and tablespoon of oil_
(which discourages the pot from ~oil-
Cooked Pasta for Salads ing over). Boil uncovered at medmm
speed until the pasta tastes done-test
PASTA SALADS Just because pasta is easy to cook frequently by biting a piece. It
doesn't mean you don't have to go should have the slightest texture, but
Now that pasta is universal, we don't about it carefully. It is hopeless, for be definitely done-on no account
have to try to be Italian about it any- instance, to try mixing a salad when should it be crunchily undercooked.
more, and I, for one, cook it accord- the cooked pasta has glued itself to- While it is boiling, prepare for the
ing to my own ideas. However, I do gether into an unyielding mass, and next step.
often refer to Jack Denton Scott's it is horrid to be served a salad of
Complete Book of Pasta (Morrow, dried-out, badly cooked pasta. I Preliminary flavoring. If you are
1968 and reprints) with its drawings therefore suggest that it be tossed in using the garlic, puree it into the
of pasta shapes, a:nd with its nostalgic oil and seasonings as soon as it is bow1 and mash to a fine paste with a
photographs of Italy by the late great cooked, and a little garlic is often a big pinch of salt. Blend in a teaspoon
Samuel Chamberlain. I especially happy addition, too. of oil. When the pasta is done, re-
like Mr. Scott's well-informed Ital- move it to the bowl by forkfuls or
CHOICE OF PAST A. Little rings, pasta
ian, but realistically American, ap- spoonfuls, draining each well-as
bows, corkscrew rotelle, rice-shaped
proach to his subject. Jack Denton points out, a little hu-
orzo grains, 1:oodles, spaghetti-these
midity on the pasta pieces helps pre-
all work nicely in salads. Hallow
vent them from sticking together.
shapes like macaroni and the shell
Toss with the oil, adding droplets
shapes might entrap too much of the
more, just to coat the pasta with a
dressing to be satisfactory.
light film. Toss in salt and pepper to
taste. This is now ready to be a pasta
For 6 servings
salad, or you may cover and reheat it
over simmering water for a hot dish.
Cooking the pasta
8 quarts water in a 10- to 12-quart *Ahead-of-time note: May be done a
kettle day or two in advance; cover and
1 pound pasta refrigerate.
2 Tbs salt
1 Tbs olive oil
Pasta Salad Printaniere Pasta Salad with Fresh Table-Top Spaghetti

Pasta garnished with fresh vegetables Tomato and Basil Marco Polo
This is a lovely, fresh, and pretty Here is one of the most delightful of This is one of my favorites, another
salad to serve for a luncheon main summer pastas. Serve when large version of which first appeared on
course, and a blessing for all con- fresh basil leaves are abundant, and our "French Chef" series, then in my
cerned when there's a vegetarian in fresh tomatoes are red, ripe, and full Kitchen book, and again on television
the midst. Here is one idea, and fol- of flavor. This would go, for infor "Mr. Rogers' Neighborhood."
lowing that are a number of other stance, with cold meats or chicken or Tossed at the table, it pleases young
suggestions. with broiled or poached fish. and old, and is best eaten with chop-
sticks. French bread and a white wine
For 6 servings For 6 servings such as sauvignon blanc would go
well here.
1 pound pasta, such as rotelle- The master recipe for 1 pound
smallish corkscrew-shaped Cooked Pasta for Salads
For 6 servings as a main-course lun-
pasta-cooked as in the preceding ¼ cup or so salad dressing, such as
cheon dish
master recipe the vinaigrette on page 351
1 cup each of the following cooked A dozen or so large fine fresh leaves 1 pound spaghetti prepared as in the
vegetables: small broccoli of basil master recipe Cooked Pasta for
florets, fresh green peas, diced The fresh tomato relish on page 359 Salads, in a large salad bowl
fresh green beans 1 cup each: chopped walnuts,
4 scallions, cut into ½-inch diagonals - Serving suggestions. chopped black olives, and
½ cup coarsely chopped fresh chopped bottled red pimiento,
parsley _ In a salad bowl. An attractive pre- tossed together in an attractive
¼ cup salad dressing, such as the Oil sentation here is to place the pasta in bowl
and Lemon Dressing (page 350) a salad bowl, tossing with several ½ cup chopped fresh parsley, in a
or one of its variations spoonfuls of the dressing. Make a small bowl
Salt and freshly ground white pepper large central nest in the pasta, line it 12 large leaves fresh basil,•thinly
Optional decoration: salad greens, with the basil leaves, and spoon the sliced, in a small bowl
black olives, quartered tomatoes, tomato relish in the center. Spoon on ¼ cup garlic dressing (page 351), in
halved cherry tomatoes, and a little of the dressing. Either let a bowl or pitcher with mixing fork
strips or triangles of pimiento guests serve themselves, or toss the Salt and white pepper, both in
salad gently at the table. grinders
Assembling. Toss the vegetables into 1 ½ cups loosely packed chilled
the pasta with the scallions, parsley, Individual bow ls. Or make sepa- crumbled cheese such as feta,
and small spoonfuls of the salad rate servings for each guest, each goat cheese, Roquefort, or blue
dressing . Taste carefully, and toss in with an individual bowl.
seasonmgs as necessary. SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
Additions. You could well enlarge A long-handled spoon and fork for toss-
Serving suggestion. Line a bowl or on this idea, adding a modest amount ing and serving; a tastingfork; chop-
platter with salad greens, mound the of cooked shrimp or lobster, strips of sticks for eating
pasta salad upon them, and decorate ham, or slivers of feta or goat cheese.
with any or all of the suggestions However, too much elaboration takes
listed. away from the simple delight of ripe
tomatoes, basil, and pasta.
Tossing the salad. Have all the ingre-

dients at the table. With flourish and
confidence, begin by elegantly fold-
ing into the spaghetti the chopped
nuts and vegetables, along with the
parsley and basil. Toss in spoonfuls
of dressing, tasting for seasoning,
and adding salt and pepper as
needed.
Serving. Serve onto chilled plates,

and sprinkle each salad with
crumbled cheese.
RICE SALADS
Leftover cooked rice is a real kitchen

treasure, particularly for salads. Use
either the plain boiled white rice on
page 327, or its risotto variation, and Rice salad ringed with cooked broccoli spears
following are some salad ideas to
whet your appetite and imagination.
Diced red and/or green bell peppers SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
Minced mild onion, shallots, or A wooden or plastic fork for tossing
scallions
The Emperor's Rice Pine nuts, or chopped walnuts, Toss the rice in a bowl with a little
A sumptuous main course pecans, hazelnuts, peanuts, and oil, lemon or vinegar, salt and pep-
so forth per, and parsley. When nicely fla-
For 6 servings Minced fresh herbs such as basil, vored, toss in other flavors, as you
dill, tarragon, and chives have them, su~h as the shrimp, pep-
2 to 3 cups cooked rice pers, onion, nuts, and so forth.
Cucumbers, peeled, seeded, diced,
Olive oil or excellent salad oil, as When you have completed your rice
macerated in salt, and drained
needed mixture, arrange a salad bowl or
Diced hard cheese such as Cheddar,
Freshly squeezed lemon juice and/or platter with a shallow bed of greens,
Swiss, Parmesan; or diced feta
wine vinegar and the rice mounded in the center.
Salt and freshly ground pepper Other elements for decoration
Then you might ring it with a gar-
A good handful of fresh parsley, Leaves of Boston lettuce, shredded land of green broccoli as in the pho-
chopped romaine or green iceberg lettuce tograph. Decorate with olives,
leaves, and/or watercress capers, eggs, tomatoes, or whatever
Garnishing suggestions-any or all of
Broccoli florets, blanched else your sense of impeccable taste
the following
Black or green olives and originality dictates. Cover with
Diced cooked shrimp, lobster, crab,
Capers plastic wrap and refrigerate until
ham, chicken, pork, and/or
Quartered or chopped hard-boiled serving time. The only accompani-
sausage
eggs ment you will need is a bowl of may-
Cherry tomatoes or quartered onnaise, a bottle of white wine, and a
tomatoes loaf of French bread.
Mayonnaise passed separately
Thus was born, I presume, the pres- 2 Tbs freshly squeezed lemon juice
ent restaurant main-course staple, 1 Tbs wine vinegar or raspberry
breast of duck, magret de canard, vinegar
sauteed or roasted whole-and what 1 Tbs Dijon-type prepared mustard
better way to serve the legs and 1 Tbs sweet-and-sour sauce, such as
thighs than to dress them in a salad? Chinese plum sauce or hoisin, or
A warm salad. Why not? The idea minced chutney
caught, and it follows that we now ½ cup light virgin olive oil
find all kinds of warm things besides Droplets of dark sesame oil
duck and foie gras in salads-little Salt and freshly ground pepper
East Bay Hot Rice Salad
split and broiled quail, for example,
or chunks of warm lobster meat, and Sufficient tender frizzy lettuce
VARIATION so forth and so on. These are pleasant leaves (curly endive), or romaine
indeed as little first courses, and ideal leaves cut crosswise into ½-inch
East Bay Hot Rice Salad for a light luncheon. I shall start out slices
with a few, to give the genera} idea, 4 uncooked legs and thighs from 2
An attractive informal luncheon idea then on to the more familiar fare. roaster ducklings
is the preceding Emperor's Rice hot, Salt and freshly ground pepper
served in a bowl. Here it is mostly ¼ tsp allspice
vegetables-cut string beans, cherry A spoonful or two of light virgin
tomatoes, diced peppers, pasta, diced Warm Duck Salad olive oil
cheese, and mushrooms-the perfect Warm duck cracklings (rendered
chopstick meal. Suppose you have done wonders with skin bits; page 180), optional
duck breasts for a dinner party, the
carcass has made a first-rate duck SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
stock, and now, for another day, you A rubber mallet or other pounding in-
POULTRY,MEAT,AND have the legs and thighs for a salad. strument; a w ok or a no-stick 10-inch
FISH SALADS Here is one way to go about it, and a frying pan
special sweet-and-sour dressing that
accompanies duck and game espe- The dressing. In a small bowl with a
C hicken, crab, and tuna salad

are American staples, but I
believe it was the French nouvelle
cially well.
A NOTE ON LEFTOVER COOKED DUCK.

wire whisk , blend the shallots or
scallions, lemon juice, vinegar, mus-
tard, and sauce or chutney. By drop-
cuisine chefs in the early 197 O's who Leftover cooked duck is best, I think, lets, to make an emulsion, beat in the
first went exotic. The French, who served cold either with a condiment such olive oil. Season to taste with droplets
had scoffed for years at the barbaric as chutney, or marinated for ½ hour in of the sesame oil, and salt and
American first-course salad, began a dressing such as the one described pepper.
offering that very thing themselves in here. Warmed-over cooked due~ unfor-
such daring combinations as Michel tunately always has a telltale warmed- The salad greens. Wash and dry the
Guerard's Salade Folle, hearts of over taste, to my mind. For the best salad greens and turn them into a
frizzy lettuce with bits of warm foie warm duck salad, start from scratch large bowl.
gras. It was usually duck foie gras, with raw duck meat, and I like the fast
but if you use those precious livers stir-fry, as in the following recipe. Readying the duck meat. Peel the skin
for salad you must do something with and any clinging fat off the duck legs
the rest of the duck. For 6 to 8 servings and thighs. As neatly as possible, cut
the meat from the bone. Arrange the
Sweet-and-sour dressing (about¼ cup)
1½ Tbs finely minced shallots or
scallions
pieces in a single layer between 2 VARIATIONS COLD VARIATIONS

pieces of plastic wrap and pound
firmly but not violently, widening You will not always have uncooked
them almost double-to tenderize the duck legs on hand, but you can sub-
meat. Slice it into lengthwise strips stitute other meats as suggested in the Salad of Cold Roast
about ¼ inch wide. Dust lightly with following ideas. Pheasant, Game Hens, or
salt, pepper, and allspice . . Chicken Breast
Chicken. Substitute skinless and bone-
~Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared less chicken breasts for the duck but Pheasant is an almost unheard-of lux-
'
to this point well ahead. Cover the they need no pounding and no pre- ury in most houses, although you can
dressing and set aside; cover and re- seasoning before the saute. buy it in specialty markets. If you are
frigerate the greens and the duck so lucky as to have a surfeit of roast
meat. Pork. Pork tenderloin is perhaps at birds, the following will make you a
its very best here-trimmed , cut into chic VIP lunch (otherwise use game
Stir-frying the duck meat. Set the wok I-inch crosswise chunks, and hens or chicken breast).
or frying pan over high heat, add pounded.
enough oil for stir-frying in the wok, For 6 servings
or to film the bottom of the frying Pork link sausages. Pork breakfast
1 cup of the master recipe for sweet-
pan. When very hot but not smok- sausages take well to this treatment ;
and-sour dressing
ing, stir in the duck meat, tossing cut them into ½-inch pieces after
18 to 24 slices of cold roast pheasant
and turning almost constantly for 2 to browning them , then toss with the
breast, game hen, or chicken
3 minutes, until the meat begins to dressing as described.
breast
brown lightly but remains barely Salt and freshly ground pepper
springy to the touch-it should be a Foie gras. There would be no com-
Sufficient leaves of tender frizzy
pinky rose inside. Remove from plaints from me if generous portions
lettuce (or of romaine cut into½-
heat, at once stir up the dressing if of foie gras were substituted for
inch crosswise slices)
necessary, and blend 3 to 4 table- duck. Saute the foie gras in slices as
24 to 30 neatly cut orange segments
spoons into the meat, enough to coat described on page 183, and arrange
12 paper-thin rounds ( whole slices)
it nicely. them around the tossed and dressed
of red onions, separated
greens.
1 cup pine nuts, toasted and tossed
Arranging the salad. Toss the salad for 10 minutes in a 350°F oven
greens with the remaining dressing;
eat a piece to check seasoning. Ar- Seasoning the pheasant. Spread a
range the dressed greens on individ- Garnishes
spoonful or two of the dressing in a
ual plates, then place the duck meat plate, and arrange the slices of poul-
on top of each in a tasteful display. You may want to toss other items in
try meat upon it. Dust them lightly
Sprinkle with the optional warm with the salad greens, like diced or
with salt and pepper, and baste with a
duck cracklings, and serve. sliced peppers of various hues, or
little of the dressing. Cover and let
cherry tomatoes. Or you might serve
steep 10 minutes or so (refrigerate if
grated steamed beets on the side
the wait is longer).
(page 293), or celeriac (page 37 5).
( continued)
Salad of Cold Roast Pheasant, Game Hens, Tacchino Tonnato

or Chicken Breast (continued) SPECIAL NOTE
Cold sliced turkey in tuna and anchovy
sauce
Assembling. Shortly before serving, Poached Turkey Breast
toss the greens in a bowl with enough This dish should be assembled at least
of the dressing to coat them; taste and Poaching is an excellent way to cook a day in advance so that the sauce and
correct seasoning. Arrange a handful turkey that is to be sliced and served the turkey will blend flavors as they
on each salad plate, and lay the strips hot in a sauce or cold in sandwiches should.
of pheasant over the greens; decorate or salads. You will have not only
with the orange segments, and a scat- juicy meat for the meal but a hand- For 8 or more servings
tering of onion rounds and pine nuts. somely flavored broth to store in your
Spoon the remaining dressing over Tuna and anchovy sauce (about 3 cups)
freezer.
each, and serve . A 7-ounce tin (1 cup) tuna packed in
Set a 6-pound bone-in breast of tur- water, drained
key breast up in a kettle just large A 2-ounce tin of flat fillets of
enough to hold it comfortably; sur- anchovies packed in olive oil,
Cold Duck Salad or Cold Pork round it with 1 cup each of chopped drained
Loin Salad carrots, onions, and celery, and a ¼ cup capers, squeezed dry
large herb bouquet (page 336). Pour The grated peel of ½ lemon
Substitute cold sliced roast duck or in 2 cups of chicken broth, 1 cup of 2 to 3 Tbs Dijon-type prepared
loin of pork for the breast of dry white French vermouth or dry mustard
pheasant. white wine, and enough water to 1 large clove of garlic, pureed, then
cover the breast by ½ inch. Bring to mashed to a very fine paste with
the simmer on top of the stove; skim ¼ tsp salt (page 350)
off gray scum, which will continue to 4 egg yolks
TACCHINO TONNATO rise for several minutes. Salt lightly, 1 to 1½ cups or more virgin olive oil
then cover the pot loosely and main- Drops of lemon juice
THEME AND VARIATIONS
tain at the bare simmer for 2 to 2 ½ Salt and freshly ground white pepper
Anything veal can do turkey does hours, adding a little boiling water if A 6-pound poached turkey breast
better-or at least turkey (or tac- the liquid evaporates to expose the (see box), or 16 to 20 generous
chino) is far cheaper than veal (or vi- turkey. but thin slices of cooked turkey
tello ). Substituting for veal in the breast
traditional Italian vitello tonnato, tur- When is it done? The breast is done Decorations: 1/3 cup capers, drained;
key breast is more tender and absorbs when a meat thermometer, pushed a large handful of coarsely
the garlic, lemon, and seasonings of · into the thickest part near the shoul- chopped fresh parsley; lemon
the sauce deliciously. der (but not touching bone), reads wedges
162°F to 165°F. Let the turkey cool
in its broth for at least 3 0 minutes. SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
A food processor, or an electric blender
Turkey Talk. This is one of the *Ahead-of-time note: Refrigerate un-
great solutions for the remains of the covered; when chilled, remove the
holiday turkey, but the tenderest and turkey to a covered container. It will
juiciest meat results from the keep well in the refrigerator for a day
poaching of a whole turkey breast in or two.
seasoned broth, as follows.
The sauce. Puree the tuna, anchovies, VARIATIONS

Tonnato Spread Using
capers, lemon peel, mustard, and Leftovers
garlic paste in the machine, then add Veal or Pork Tonnato
the egg yolks and puree several sec- Leftovers of the preceding sauced
onds, until the mixture has thick- Substitute thinly sliced cold roast veal meats or fish can make an attractive
ened. Finally, with the motor or pork loin for the turkey breast.
spread for appetizers or a filling for
running, start adding the oil in a sandwiches, hard-boiled eggs, or to-
very thin stream of droplets, and mato shells. Puree them and their
continue without pause until ¾ cup sauce in a food processor, adding
of oil has gone in and the sauce has Broiled or Poached Fish more lemon juice, olive oil, and sea-
thickened into a heavy cream. It will Tonnato sonings as needed.
not be as thick as mayonnaise, but
should hold itself in creamy suspen- Serve the sauce with broiled fish,
sion-process in ½ cup or more of such as swordfish, bluefish, mack-
SPECIAL N OTE
oil, depending on how thick a sauce erel, shark, or with cold poached
you wish to have. Season carefully to fish.
taste with lemon juice, salt, and pep-
A Different Sauce: Green
per-the sauce should have charac- Tapenade Sauce
ter, but should not be too strong in
Pasta Tonnato Garlic, anchovies, green-ripe olives,
taste or it will kill off the turkey.
and capers pureed with olive oil,
Tuna and anchovy sauce is wonderful parsley, and seasonings also makes a
Slicing the turkey . If you are using a
with hot pasta, and you might toss it fine topping for cold sliced meats or
poached turkey breast, discard the
also with plenty of parsley, a good fish, as well as a spread . That recipe
skin. Carefully remove in one piece
sprinkling of Parmesan cheese, and is in the variation for Celery Victor,
the whole side of each breast from the
even some diced fresh tomato ( page on page 300.
carcass. Cut the meat at a slant cross-
wise (across the grain), into elegant 358).
slices less than 1/s inch thick.
Assembling. Spoon a layer of sauce in

the bottom of a serving platter, and
arrange the turkey on top, spreading
each slice with a coating of sauce.
Cover with plastic wrap and refriger-
ate for 24 to 48 hours before serving.
Serving . Let the platter sit at room

temperature for 20 minutes to take
off the chill. Meanwhile sprinkle on
the capers and parsley, and decorate
with the lemon .
CHICKEN, LOBSTER, CRAB,

AND SHRIMP SALADS
I make all of these in much the same

way, in that I first marinate the ele-
ments briefly with the seasoning ele-
ments to blend flavors, then toss them
with only enough mayonnaise to bind
them together. This way you are get-
ting splendid flavor and are not over-
doing on the sauce. In fact, rather
than mixing it in you may well pass
the mayonnaise separately, and calorie
watchers may slather it on at their
own discretion.
Deluxe Chicken or Turkey

Salad
Serving 6 to 8 Wedge shapes of chopped parsley and egg yolks, a garland of chopped egg whites , and a pimiento top-knot
6 cups cooked skinless and boneless

chicken or turkey that has been Decorative suggestions: 2 hard- Serving suggestions. Shred the lettuce
cut into good-size bites, such as boiled eggs, a large handful of and arrange in a bowl or on a platter
rectangles about 1 by 1 ½ inches fresh parsley, several strips of red and mound the salad over it; spread a
and ¼ inch thick pimiento light coating of mayonnaise on top.
Salt and freshly ground white pepper .
1 to 2 Tbs light virgin olive oil Preliminary seasoning. Toss the Either decorate with sliced hard-
2 to 3 Tbs freshly squeezed lemon chicken or turkey in a big mixing boiled eggs, sprigs of parsley, and
juice bowl with the salt, pepper, and strips of pimiento; or try the more
½ cup chopped fresh parsley enough oil to enrok>e the meat very formal decor pictured here, in which
1 tsp finely cut fresh tarragon leaves, lightly. Then toss with the lemon you chop the whites and yolks of the
or¼ tsp fragrant dried tarragon juice, and finally with the herbs, cel- eggs separately and toss with a
1 cup diced tender celery stalks ery, onions, and optional walnuts. sprinkle of salt and white pepper.
½ cup minced scallions or mild Taste analytically, and correct season- Chop the parsley. Then fold a double
omon ing. Let steep 10 minutes, tossing strip of wax paper in two to make a
1 cup chopped walnuts, optional several times. long V-shape; holding that in place as
¾ cup or more mayonnaise, a guide for each quarter, its point at
preferably homemade (page 363) *Ahead-of-time note: May be com- the middle point of the salad mound,
1 medium head of romaine, washed pleted a day in advance to this point; sprinkle two opposite quadrants with
and dried cover and refrigerate. chopped yolk and the other two with
parsley. Ring the mound with the
Final seasoning. Drain any accumu- chopped whites, and make a decora-
lated liquid out of the salad, correct tive crisscross of pimiento strips in
seasoning again, and fold in just the center.
enough mayonnaise to enrobe the
ingredients.
VARIATION % cup diced celery VARIATION
½ cup grated carrot

Lobster, Crab, or Shrimp ¼ cup diced scallions or mild yellow Harlequin Cole Slaw
Salad omon
½ cup finely diced green bell pepper For a more colorful effect, use half
Substitute lobster, crab, or shrimp 1 small apple, peeled, cored, and finely shredded green cabbage and
for the chicken or turkey. You will finely diced half red cabbage.
probably want to eliminate the wal- 1 medium cucumber, peeled, halved
nuts, and you may wish to arrange a lengthwise, seeded, and diced
different presentation, such as 3 to 4 Tbs chopped fresh parsley
mounding the salad in individual Celeriac Remoulade
The preliminary flavoring Celery root in mustard dressing
shells in the case of lobster or crab
and using claw meat or shrimp as ½ Tbs Dijon-type prepared mustard
decoration. See also the Lobster or 2 Tbs wine ( or cider) vinegar That big brown, knobby ugly vege-
Crab Mayonnaise ( page 365), which 1 tsp salt table known as celery root or celeriac
uses the tomalley and roe in a most 1 tsp sugar is almost snowy white inside, and it
delicious manner. ¼ tsp caraway or cumin seeds makes a marvelous salad, or an ac-
¼ tsp ground imported bay leaf (if companiment to smoked or broiled
available) fish, or to cold cuts, or to a collection
¼ tsp celery seeds of other vegetables.
CABBAGE,CELERY,AND Several grinds of fresh pepper
MANUFACTURING NOTE. Celery root
CORN SALADS 1/3 cup sour cream mixed with ½ cup can be tough unless very finely shredded;
mayonnaise, plus more if needed you need a machine to do that for you.
Preliminary flavoring. Remove any For about 1 quart, or 6 to 8 servings

.,0 MASTER RECIPE wilted outside leaves, wash the cab-
bage, and shred it-see notes on A 1-pound celery root (3 to 3½
Coleslaw hand and processor shredding on inches across)
page 2 8 8. Toss the cabbage in a large 1 ½ tsp salt
It is hard to say whether potato salad mixing bowl with the celery, carrot, 1½ tsp lemon juice
or coleslaw is America's favorite. scallions, green pepper, apple, cu- The dressing
Coleslaw goes so well with hamburg- cumber, and parsley. Mix together ¼ cup Dijon-type prepared mustard
ers, with boiled lobster, with broiled the mustard, vinegar, salt, and sugar. 3 Tbs boiling water
fish, on a picnic-it is certainly one Toss vegetables with the mustard 1/3 to ½ cup olive oil or salad oil
of the great inventions. This is my mixture, caraway or cumin, and sea- 2 to 3 Tbs wine vinegar
favorite form.ula because if there are sonings. Toss several times, tasting Salt and freshly ground pepper
dieters at the table (including me!) and adding a little more salt or vine-
the salad is delicious just with its pre-- gar if you think it needed. Let stand 2 to 3 Tbs chopped fresh parsley,
liminary flavorings, and you can pass 20 to 3 0 minutes to let liquids exude. optional
the dressing on the side. Toss again and drain.
A food processor with fine shredding
For 6 to 8 servings *Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared
disk, or a hand-crank julienne mill;
1 fine fresh hard-headed cabbage ahead to this point; cover and
two 2- or 3-quart mixing bowls; a wire
weighing about 1 ½ pounds refrigerate.
whisk
(making about 4 cups when
sliced) Serving. Drain again, and correct
(continued)
seasoning. Either toss with the may-
onnaise or serve as is and pass the
sauce separately.
Celeriac Remoulade (continued)
Preparing the celery root. To prevent

the celery root from discoloring,
work quickly. Peel the brown outside
off the celery root with a short stout
knife (don't try to get every bit of
peel out of every crack!), cut into
chunks, and shred in the machine. At
once, toss it in one of the bowls with
the salt and lemon juice. (If you are
doing a lot, shred and season in
batches in order to prevent it from
yellowing.)
The dressing. Meanwhile, warm the

other bowl in hot water and dry it.
Add the mustard, and by dribbles
whisk in the boiling water, then the
oil; finally dribble and whisk in the
vinegar to make a thick creamy
sauce. Hot Corn Salad
Assembling. Taste the celeriac: if it

seems salty, rinse it in cold water, Hot Corn Salad
drain, and dry it. Fold it into th~
sauce, and correct seasoning. Fold This free-form, colorful summer
with the optional parsley. salad may of course be served either
hot or cold, and, although frozen
*Ahead-of-time note: The celery root kernels will do , it is always best with
is ready to serve now, but will be fresh corn. Serve it with steaks, ham-
more tender if it steeps in the refrig- burgers, barbecued ribs, or take it on
erator several hours. It will keep sev- a picnic.
eral days, covered, in the A corn scraper or stripper
refri gera tor. For 6 to 8 servings
6 to 8 ears of fresh corn ( to make 3 The corn. Either remove the corn
cups of kernels) kernels using a corn scraper, or cut
1 large green bell pepper them off in rows with a small sharp
1 large red bell pepper knife. The picky business now is
1 bunch of scallions-the white and separating the individual kernels
the tender part of the green from their place on the row. (How do
1/3 cup virgin olive oil
the packagers do it?) Drop them into
Salt and freshly ground pepper a saucepan of boiling lightly salted
3 large fine carrots water; bring to the boil for several
seconds , and drain in a large sieve.
Run cold water over them to cool
A corn scraper is useful-usually
fast, and set aside .
available from country-store catalogues
The peppers and scallions. Dice the LIST OF SALADS IN

peppers. Trim and wash the scal- OTHER CHAPTERS
lions, discard the upper tougher
green parts, and cut the scallions on
the slant into ½ -inch pieces. Film a
large frying pan with olive oil and Dried Beans
saute the peppers and scallions for 2
to 3 minutes briefly over moderate All-Season Bean Salad (vegetable
heat. When barely tender, season chapter, page 334)
with salt and pepper, and set aside.
Bean Brandade (A cold puree with
The carrots . Peel the carrots; shave 3 garlic and olive oil; vegetable chap-
strips from each side with a vegetable ter, page 333 )
peeler and drop them into a bowl of
ice and water so they will form curls.
The remains of the carrots, flat and
thin after their shaving, are seasoned Beef
with salt and pepper and slowly
cooked in olive oil in a covere_d pan Salade de Boeuf a la Parisienne (Cold
until just tender. sliced roast beef; meat chapter, page
250)
Serving. Shortly before serving , re-
heat the carrot pieces. Fold the corn
kernels into the pepper mixture, add
a little fresh oil and heat through. Eggplant
Correct seasoning and turn into a
platter. Decorate with the carrot Steamed Eggplant with Parsley
pieces, surround with the carrot Dressing (vegetable chapter, page
curls , and serve. 291 )
Eggplant Caviar (vegetable chapter,

page 333 )
Fish
Fisherman's Salad (fish chapter, page

104)
Lamb
Syrian Salad (Cold sliced roast lamb

with bulgur; meat chapter, page 2 14)
Pastry Doughs
---
The Dough for Pie Shells
and Quiches
French Puff Pastry from

Peekaboo Tarts to Pissaladiere
Choux Pastry, Chocolate Eclairs,

and Puffed Tidbits
Crepes
Both Sweet and Savory
The mastery of pie-crust dough and pastry and crepes, at your fingertips freeze it, and turn it into little cheese •
puff pastry really makes one feel like is that you can make all of them cocktail puffs or that giant puffed
a cook. Thanks to the food processor ahead ancl keep them in the freezer. cheese ring, the gougeres on page
and the heavy-duty mixer those once- Then when you suddenly have com- 403.
feared accomplishments can-and pany, you can bring them out with It's a marvelous help to know
should-be in anyone's repertoire. ease and confidence. that you have a stack of frozen crepes
Admittedly, they do take a certain Pastry doughs also give you a waiting for your command, or disks
modicum of expertise, but when you chance to feast on the remains-my of dough for topping chicken pot
follow the illustrated directions here euphemistic term for leftovers. Plan pies. The way to learn is to start right
and remember to keep everything on a quiche for yesterday's cooked in with fearless determination, and
chilled, you will find there's not too salmon, for instance, or save sauteed you will never regret your decision.
much to making them. mushrooms or spinach for the tower Once the feeling is in your hands,
A very good reason for having of crepes on page 407. Don't throw you'll retain it thankfully forever
these doughs, as well as cream puff out good but dried-out cheese-grate more.
it in your food processor, bag it,
PASTRY DOUGH-PATE
BRISEE SPECIAL NOTE Measuring chart for all flours-from
all-purpose , rye, and whole wheat to
To Measure Flour cake flour-giving near approxi-
B .T.F.P.-Before The Food

Processor-it was only the
practiced cook who produced decent
The scoop-and-level system
The measuring of flour is a serious

mations.
1 cup 5 ounces 140-145

pastry dough. And what a to-do it business, since if you have less or flour, scooped grams
was: first the making of a fountain of more than your recipe specifies you and leveled
flour on a clean board, the clearing of can produce a dry tough dough, or a
a space in its center for the butter and damp dough, or a heavy cake, or a 2/3cup 3 ½ ounces 100 grams
liquids, and the working of them to- failed souffie. Although professional flour
gether with cool, deft fingers-all bakers must use scales for their large
done by th~t practiced cook with an quantities, I find the scoop-and-level ½ cup 1¾ ounces 50 grams
infuriatingly calm smile of superior- ,ystem perfectly satisfactory for the flour
ity. Now, in less than 5 minutes, that small quantities called for in general
wonderful F.P. machine enables any home cooking. ¼ cup 1 ¼ ounces 35 grams
one of us to make perfect pastry flour
dough every time. We are thus, with Dip a dry-measure cup into the flour
our own triumphant smiles, instantly container. 3 Tbs Scant ounce 25 grams
masters of the quiche, the tart, the flour
turnover, countless hors d'oeuvre Using the straight edge of a knife or
niblets, to say nothing of the chicken spatula, sweep off excess flour even 1 Tbs ¼ ounce 7½ grams
pot pie. with the lip of the cup. If you are to flour
sift the flour, sift after measuring.
3 ½ cups 1 pound 464 grams
flour
3¾ cups 1.1 pounds 500 grams

flour
METRIC CONVERSIONS
Ounces into approximate grams: multi-
ply ounces by 2 8 .4
Grams into approximate ounces: multi-
ply grams by 0.35
Scoop flour into dr y-measure cup and sweep off excess.
JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK PASTRY DOUGHS 381
A Note on Flour and Tender ¼ cup (2 ounces) chilled vegetable *Ahead-of-time note: The dough will
Pastry Crusts shortening keep 2 days in the refrigerator before
½ cup ice water, plus droplets more, its unbleached fl.our will start turning
Low-gluten pastry fl.our, the kind you if needed grayish, but it can be frozen for sev-
find in biscuit-making Southern states eral months.
or in some health-food stores, makes
A food processor with steel blade
tender pie crusts while plain all-
purpose fl.our usually makes brittle
Blending flour and butter. Have all the
crust. To tenderize all-purpose fl.our,
ingredients measured out and ready
I include some cake fl.our-approxi-
to use. Put the fl.our, salt (or salt and
mately 1 part cake fl.our to 3 parts all-
sugar), and diced butter in the con-
purpose, and as a further tenderizing
tainer of the processor and pulse (on-
agent, I use 1 part vegetable shorten-
off half-second clicks) 5 or 6 times to
ing to 3 parts butter.
break up the butter roughly. Add the
shortening, turn on the machine, and
immediately pour in the ½ cup of ice I. Feeling the dough ·
water, then pulse 2 or 3 times. Re-
Dietary Note
move the cover and feel the dough-
it should look like a bunch of small
The most delicious, tender, buttery
lumps, and will just hold together in
pastry doughs contain 4 parts butter
a mass when you press a handful to-
to 5 parts fl.our. In other words, the
gether-see its texture in my left
following dough, which will make
hand (illustration, step 1). (It's im-
two 9-inch tarts serving 12 people,
portant not to overmix; it should not
contains 14 tablespoons of butter,
mass on the blade of the machine.) If
meaning that each serving will pro-
too dry, pulse in droplets more water.
vide 11/6 tablespoons of butter-not
From now on work rapidly to keep
bad for a heavenly indulgence.
the dough cold and manageable. 2. Smearing out dough with heel of hand
Final Blending. Turn the dough out

- - • MASTER RECIPE
onto your work surface; press it into
a rough mass. For the final blending,
To Make a Butter Dough for rapidly and roughly, with the heel
Pastries and Pie Crusts: (not the palm) of your hand, push egg-
Pate Brisee Fine size clumps of dough out in front
of you in a 6-inch smear (step 2).
For two 9-inch tart shells or a 14- by
4 ½-inch rectangular crust Resting and Chilling. Form the dough
into a cake (step 3)-it should be
1½ cups all-purpose flour, preferably fairly smooth and pliable. Wrap in 3. Forming dough into a cake
unbleached (scooped and leveled) plastic, slide it into a plastic bag, as
½ cup plain bleached cake flour at upper left, and refrigerate. Freshly
1 tsp salt (or, for dessert tarts, ¼ tsp made dough should chill 2 hours at
salt and 2 Tbs sugar) least, allowing the fl.our particles to
6 ounces (1 ½ sticks) chilled unsalted absorb the liquid, as well as to firm
butter, quartered lengthwise and the butter and relax the gluten.
diced
Forming Tart Shells
Of course you can bake a tart in a pie

pan, but it is far more stylish to serve
it in its own free-standing pastry
shell. Here are four suggestions for
the free-standing shell: the first,
formed in an open quiche ring; the
second, formed on an upside-down
cake pan; the third, taking advantage
of the store-bought pie shell; and, fi- I. Unrolling dough over quiche ring 2. Pressing dough down sides to make them thicker
nally, the free-form shell.

Rapidly roll out the chilled dough Vs
inch thick and about 1½ inches
larger than the circumference of the
To Form a Pastry Shell in a ring; roll it up on your pin, and un-
Quiche Ring roll it over the quiche ring (illustra-
tion, step 1).
The quiche ring, pictured here, is
wonderfully convenient for baking Lightly press the dough in place;
free-form shells. You'll usually find it then, to make the sides sturdy, push
in gourmet cookware stores and cata- ½ inch or so of the dough down the
logues-but if you don't, you have 3. Rolling pin over top of ring to trim off excess
sides all around (step 2). dough
the three alternatives that follow.
Roll your pin over the top of the ring
to cut off the excess dough (step 3).
A straight rolling pin 1¾ to 2 inches in
diameter and 18 inches long, such as the
Now push the dough up the sides
one in the photographs, or an Italian
with your thumbs to form a rim
pasta pin; a 9-inch quiche ring, interior
standing ½ inch above the top of the
buttered; a pastry sheet, lightly buttered;
ring (step 4). Patch any thin areas
lightweight aluminum foil; 1 pound of
with raw dough. Prick the bottom of
dried beans or aluminum bits
the dough at ¼-inch intervals with
the tines of a table fork.
Keep It Cold! ( A Word About Marble)
4. Pushing dough up sides of ring
Because of its high butter content, the
Using the dull edge of a table knife,
dough softens rapidly. Work fast, but
press a decorative pattern on the rim
if the dough does lose its chill and
of the shell (step 5). Cover the shell
becomes difficult to handle, stop
with plastic wrap and refrigerate 3 0
where you are; refrigerate everything
minutes or more, to relax the dough
for 20 to 30 minutes, then continue.
so it will bake evenly.
A cool marble work surface is of tre-
mendous help in pastry making; buy
*Ahead-of-time note: The formed shell
one cut to the size of your refrigera-
may be wrapped and frozen.
tor shelf, chill it before your pastry
session, and you'll never have dough
Soggy bottom problems. Unless you
softening. (Look under Marble in
plan to bake your quiche or pie on a S. Making a decorative edging
the yellow pages.) sheet of foil set on a hot baking stone
(as for the pizzas on page 5 5), you'll
JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK PASTRY DOUGHS 3 83
get the best and crispest crust if you

prebake it. But to prevent the sides SPECIAL NOTE
from collapsing and the bottom from

bulging up in the oven, the dough Sweet Pastry Dough: Pate
needs weighting down as follows: Sablee
Cut a square of lightweight foil 4 A very special dough for sweet tarts
inches larger than the diameter of and cookies, much the same as the
your shell. Lightly butter the shiny preceding one but with egg yolk and
side and make a pouch of it, shiny sugar, is in the cookie chapter ( page
side down. Fill with a good handful 489). Placing buttered pan over upside-down shell
or two of beans or aluminum bits,

Butter the bottom of a second cake
( step 6). Gently line the pastry shell
pan and place it on top of the pastry,
with the foil, pressing it against the To Form and Prebake an as illustrated, to keep the dough from
edges.
Upside-Down Shell puffing up as it is baked-12 to 15
minutes in the preheated oven.
A useful alternative to the quiche
ring is an upside-down pan, with
which you can make the shell deeper
VARIATION
than you could in a ring. Use a
round cake pan as in the illustration,
To Prebake Frozen Store-
or you may want a square or a loaf
pan shape-for instance, you could
Bought Shells
use the long angel-loaf pan for a cou-
Preheat the oven to 450°F. Prick the
libiac in a crust or a beef Wellington .
pie shell all over at ¼-inch intervals
The dough here needs an egg, which
6. Pouch of foil and beans going in with the tines of a table fork.
holds it in place-otherwise the sides
slide off during baking.
Set a weighted twin pie plate in the
shell-note the aluminum bits in the
Bake in the lower middle level of the For 2 shells baked on 8 -inch cake pans
photograph-and prebake in the pre-
preheated oven. (Check in 5 minutes.
2½ cups all-purpose flour, preferably heated oven. (Keep the shell in its
If you find the edges have collapsed
unbleached (scooped and leveled) aluminum plate when you fill and
in places, push them up with a spat-
1 cup plain bleached cake flour bake the tart later; ease it out of the
ula or patch with raw dough and
10 ounces (2¼ sticks) chilled aluminum for serving.)
brace more beans against them.)
unsalted butter
Bake until the bottom of the pastry is
5 Tbs chilled vegetable shortening
set but still slightly soft. Remove the
2 tsp salt (or, for sweet crusts, ½ tsp
foil and beans, prick the bottom
salt and 3 Tbs sugar)
again with a fork, and bake a few
1 "large" egg blended with enough
minutes more, until the pastry is just
ice water to make ¾ cup, plus
beginning to color and to separate
droplets more water, if needed
slightly from the edges of the ring.
Let cool 10 minutes before unmold-
Make the dough as described in the
ing onto a rack.
master recipe; form it on the buttered
outside of an upside-down cake pan.
Buttered twin pie plate with aluminum bits
Prick it all over with the tines of a
table fork, and chill 20 minutes. Pre-
heat the oven to 450°F.
Forming and Baking a Free- Dietary note. Perhaps one reason

Form Shell we see fewer quiches today is that
people are afraid of their food-
Illustrated directions for a rectangu- deathly afraid of eggs, and butter,
lar shell are in the apple tart recipe and dairy products in general.
. on page 394. For a round shell, turn However, healthy people are allowed
up the edges all around in the same a certain amount of each-and need a
way, and you may wish to turn them certain amount of each for a well-
over once again in order to have a balanced diet. Why not enjoy every
higher edge. Prick the interior of the mouthful of our permitted ration? As
Bracing the filled shell with a strip of foil
disk with the tines of a table fork, an example, our first recipe, the
and surround the shell with a double shrimp quiche, is far from lethal. It
contains, per person, about 1½ shells vary in depth, but you can cal-
strip of buttered aluminum foil.
After chilling the shell 20 minutes, tablespoons butter in all-for the culate the custard part by egg, adding
line it with foil as previously de- crust and for the shrimp saute, plus more or less as needed. For each
scribed, and fill it with beans to brace 1½ teaspoons grated cheese, and half "large" egg, break 1 egg into a cup
an egg. The milk or cream content is and add liquid to reach the ½-cup
the sides. Bake as directed in the
up to you, since you may use level.
master recipe.
skimmed milk, regular milk, half-
and-half, or heavy cream. Support for the shell. A free-standing
shell needs support when filled for
When your prebaked shell is baking. Keep it in its quiche ring, or
FIVE EASY QUICHES
standing beside you, assembly of the pin or clip an aluminum collar
custard and filling is a matter of around its outside.
The quiche-pronounced keesh-that
cheesy open-faced custard pie much minutes-eggs, milk, plus almost
in vogue starting in the mid-1960's, anything that strikes your fancy-
became so ubiquitous, and often so cheese, bacon, leeks, onions, canned
pimiento, ready-cooked vegetables,
Shrimp Quiche
badly made, that its popularity
waned. I vote it back in again be- tomato sauce, and so forth.
For a 9-inch quiche, serving 6
cause it is wonderfully good eating.
And when you have ready-made 1 cup cooked shelled shrimp
dough in the freezer, or a ready- 2 Tbs butter
baked shell, it is fast to prepare as an Manufacturing notes. Seasonings: salt, frt:shly ground
easy first course or supper or lun- pepper, and a pinch of tarragon
cheon dish. What it is. The quiche filling is a fla- ¼ cup dry white French vermouth
voring held together with a cus- A 9-inch prebaked shell (see master
tard-that is, eggs and a liquid of recipe for butter dough)
some sort. The eggs slowly coagulate The custard: 3 "large" eggs blended
in the oven, holding the rest of the with enough milk or cream to
ingredients in creamy suspension. make 1½ cups
You don't want too much custard-a 3 Tbs grated Swiss cheese
mistake made by some over-
enthusiastic cooks-since the beauty Preheat the oven to 3 7 5°F. Saute the
of the quiche is the balance between shrimp with the butter and season-
its delicious, tenderly baked buttery ings for 1 minute. Add the vermouth
crust and its filling. and boil rapidly for 3 0 seconds.
Prebaked shell ready for filling Strew the shrimp in the pastry shell.
Measurements. You can't be exact Pour in custard to within 1/s inch of
about total filling amounts, since the rim, and sprinkle on the cheese.
Bake 3 0 to 3 5 minutes in the pre-

heated oven, until puffed and
browned.
Cheese and Bacon Quiche
6 crisp strips of cooked bacon

A 9-inch prebaked shell (see master
recipe for butter dough)
½ cup coarsely grated Swiss cheese
pepper, and nutmeg
The custard: 3 "large" eggs blended
with enough milk or cream to
make l½ cups
Preheat the oven to 3 7 5°F. Break up ~~

the pieces of bacon and strew them in
Cheese and Bacon Quiche before baking
the bottom of the shell. Sprinkle on
all but a spoonful of the cheese. Sea-
son the custard, and pour it to within
Vs inch of the rim; sprinkle on the
rest of the cheese. Bake 3 0 to 3 5
minutes in the preheated oven, until Spinach Quiche
puffed and browned .

2 Tbs butter
VARIATION 10 ounces ( 1 bunch or package)
fresh spinach, stemmed, washed,
Quiche Lorraine blanched, and chopped (page 278)
Quiche Lorraine, the most famous of pepper, and nutmeg Adding the spinach-custard
all, is the mother quiche. Follow the The custard: 3 "large" eggs blended
preceding recipe but, rather than with enough milk or cream to
using plain milk as a base, substitute stir over heat until tender. Season, let
make l½ cups
the best and· fattest and richest cream, cool, and blend into the custard.
¼ cup lightly pressed down, grated
and bacon only as its special flavor- Swiss cheese
ing. No cheese. It's marvelous in- Filling and baking the quiche. Reserv-
A 9-inch prebaked shell (see master
deed. Try just a tiny sliver and see ing 2 tablespoons of the cheese, strew
recipe for butter dough)
for yourself. the rest in the shell. Pour in the
spinach-custard up to ¼ inch of the
The spinach. Preheat the oven to
rim. Sprinkle on the remaining
3 7 5°F. Saute the shallots or scallions
cheese; bake 3 5 minutes until puffed
briefly in the butter, add the spinach;
and brown.
Proven~al Tomato Quiche
It's a different formula here for to-

matoes- no milk or cream needed or
wanted, mostly for aesthetics (cream
looks mottled when baked with toma-
toes). This quiche is, of course, best
at the height of the season, when the
tomatoes are ripe and full of flavor.
2 cups sliced onions

¼ cup or so olive oil
1 large clove of garlic, pureed -.
5 medium fine fresh ripe tomatoes,
peeled, seeded, juiced, and
chopped (page 357)
pepper, oregano, and cayenne
pepper; tomato paste, optional
1 egg plus 3 yolks, lightly beaten
Arranging the sausage slices over the custard mixture and cheese
together
¼ cup lightly pressed down, chopped
Sausage and Onion Quiche Onions and sausage. Preheat the oven fresh parsley
to 3 7 5°F. In a frying pan saute the 8 anchovy fillets packed in oil,
For a 9-inch quiche, serving 6 onions with the butter or oil for 8 to drained and mashed to a puree
10 P-1.inutes, until perfectly tender; with 1 Tbs olive oil
2 cups minced onions add the vermouth and boil down rap- A 9-inch prebaked shell (see master
2 Tbs butter or olive oil idly to evaporate the liquid. Season recipe for butter dough)
¼ cup dry w hite French vermouth
carefully and spread in the bottom of ¼ cup grated Parmesan or other
Seasonings: salt, freshly ground the shell. Meanwhile steam the sau- hard cheese
pepper, and sage
sages 10 minutes . Slice them on the 1 or 2 large fine ripe red tomatoes,
A 9-inch prebaked shell (see master slant to make large ovals 3/s inch sliced
recipe for butter dough) thick, and brown them lightly in the
2 Italian-style sausages, 5 inches frying pan. The tomato base . Preheat the oven to
long
37 5°F. In a 10-inch frying pan, saute
The custard: 3 "large" eggs blended Filling and baking the quiche. Pour the the onions with 2 tablespoons of the
with enough milk or cream to . custard mixture over the cooked on- oil for 8 to 10 minutes, until tender
make l½ cups
ions, to within 1/s inch of the rim. but not browned. Stir in the garlic,
¼ cup lightly pressed down, grated
Spread the cheese over the custard
Sw iss cheese and arrange the sausage slices on top,
as illustrated. Bake 3 0 to 3 5 minutes
in the preheated oven, until the cus-
tard is puffed and browned.
JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK PASTRY DOUGH S 3 87
SPECIAL N OTE
Leftover Quiche
I've had good luck cutting leftover

quiche into serving portions and re-
frigerating or even freezi ng it.
About 15 minutes before serving I
sprinkle the tops with a little rnore
grated cheese and reheat, uncovered,
in the upper middle level of a pre-
heated 400°F oven. Convenient for
unexpected cocktail guests.
Asparagus
Use the same system for asparagus as

for broccoli-the spokes of a wheel
idea is particularly attractive here.
Tomato mixture going into shell
then the chopped tomatoes, and sim- Other ideas

mer 10 minutes, stirring frequently,
Eggplant
until a thick puree. Stir in seasonings T he precedi ng five quiches give the
Eggplant makes a marvelous quiche.
to taste, including a little tomato general idea- they're all much the
Use the diced eggplant sauteed in ol-
paste if you think it needed; let cool same but with little differences. Here
ive oil, garlic, and parsley on page
to tepid. Then beat in the eggs and are other suggestions.
2 91 , then proceed as for the shrimp
parsley.
quiche .
Filling the shell and baking. Spread the

anchovy puree in the shell and cover Broccoli
with the tomato base; strew on the
cheese, arrange the tomato slices Toss ½ cup or so of cooked chopped
Lobster and C rah
tastefully on top. Salt lightly, and broccoli in a little hot butter and sea-
It's hard to beat the elegance of lob-
drizzle over them a little olive oil. sonings. Proceed as for the spinach
ster or crab in a quiche, and it's just
Bake 3 0 to 3 5 minutes in the pre- quiche. Or you might place the broc-
too bad, as with shrimp, that these
heated oven, until lightly puffed and coli florets like the spokes of a wheel
shellfish are so expensive. Follow the
an agreeable patchy brown. around the edge of the shell, with the
system for the shrimp quiche .
chopped sauteed stems in the middle;
then pour on the custard.
Green and/or Red Bell Pepper FRENCH PUFF PASTRY: pastry dough . It's worth every
or Canned Pimiento PATE FEUILLETEE minute you spend on it, and since
For appetizers, first courses, you can freeze puff pastry for
Start out with a cup of sliced onions months, it is a treasure to have on
cakes, and desserts
sauteed in oil, then add minced hand since all of the items pictured
garlic, sliced peppers or canned pi- here, and many more, can be
miento, and seasonings-leftover pi-
perade ( page 90) comes in handy
here. Proceed as for the spinach
quiche . .
T he opening photograph for
this chapter looks the very
picture of a pastry shop window-
and you can produce wonders every
assembled in a relatively short
time-once you have the dough.
bit as good as these. All you need is

Manufacturing Notes.
the dough to do it.
Leek and/or Onion Quiche I have gathered so many puff-pastry

ifs, ands, buts, precautions, and mis-
Saute 2 or 3 cups of sliced onions What it is. Puff pastry consists of
cellaneous hints through the years
and/or white of leek in butter or olive literally hundreds of paper-thin that I list the most meaningful of
oil, then proceed as for the spinach - layers of dough sandwiched between them here .
quiche. hundreds of paper-thin layers of
butter-created by the special way
you roll out the dough, fold it, and
roll and fold it again. In the oven the Flour. You will make the tenderest
The Crustless Quiche separate layers of dough rise up dough using 1 part plain bleached
between the layers of butter to make cake flour to 3 parts unbleached all-
This is a handy system when you're an airy, light, and tender puff. The purpose flour. Measure by the scoop-
in a hurry. Butter a shallow baking classic method is to enclose a cake of and-level system described on page
and serving dish and fill it with any butter in a package of dough, roll it 380 .
of your quiche ideas. It bakes the into a rectangle, fold it in three, and
same way. With a tossed salad and a continue, making 6 "turns," as a roll-
bottle of wine, lunch is ready in 3 5 and-fold is called. The entirely
minutes. (See also the Timbales- The hand vs . the machine. When
different method I describe here and
vegetable custards-on page 7 0.) which takes half the time, produces, making the dough itself, it is
I think, an equally first-class dough. important that the butter be broken
The butter is broken into large flat into big flakes . Form the dough
either in an electric mixer with a flat
pieces which are combined with the
There's many a quiche beater or by hand, but when using
flour and water, and flatten more as
the machine be careful not to
the dough is rolled, folded into three,
Just about anything cooked or canned and rolled again, eventually making overmix. The food processor is not at
. and ready to eat is quiche material, all recommended here since it breaks
even layers by the fifth and sixth
from sauteed mushrooms and/or the butter into pieces that are too
turns.
chicken livers to shredded zucchini small, and the dough will not puff
and onions; smoked, dilled, or Puff pastry, like pastry dough and properly.
canned salmon; and tuna. I've not yet bread making, takes a certain amount
tried sardines or canned beets, and of practice, but puff pastry is the
I'm not sure I shall. But that's the in- dough that teaches you all the
triguing part about the whole quiche tricks-how to wield a rolling pin,
story-it really has no ending. how to cut and shape, and, in
general, how to feel at home with
Keep it cold! Because of its large Freezing.

proportion of butter, puff pastry
softens quickly and then becomes Raw unshaped dough freezes perfectly.
impossible to manipulate-keep it Thaw it in the refrigerator.
cold. If it warms up, refrigerate it
immediately for 2 0 to 3 0 minutes. If Shaped raw dough can usually be
you plan to do lots of pastry, buy baked in its frozen state.
yourself a cool marble slab to work
on-see the remarks for butter Baked pastries can also be frozen. To ·
pastry dough on page 3 82. thaw, set in a preheated 450°F oven,
I. Chilled diced butter to be tossed with flour
and turn the oven off-but check
small pieces in a few minutes to be
sure all is well.
Roll evenly. Get yourself a long
rolling pin like the one pictured- Puff pastry scraps. Directions on how
use a broom handle if you've nothing to re-form and reuse them are in the
else. Keep the shape of your dough in Special Note on page 3 96. Keep your
a neat rectangle, all flaps meeting scraps flat on a pastry sheet.
nicely and all edges straight. You are
working to produce even layers for a
uniform puff.
-- • MASTER RECIPE
2 . Rapidly flattening chilled butter pieces between
tips of fingers
To Make French Puff
How thick to roll the dough. If Pastry Dough
you want a full rise, roll it ¼ to 3/s Step 1. The butter and flour. Toss the
inch thick; for a minimum rise but For 2½ pounds of dough, making a chilled diced butter, salt, and the
flaky effect, such as for a tart shell, ready-to-roll rectangle 18 by 12 by ¼ flours together either in the bowl of a
roll it 1/s inch thick. inches heavy-duty mixer with flat beater, or
on your work surface (illustration,
1 pound, 10 ounces (6½ ~ticks) step 1) .
. chilled unsalted butter, quartered
lengthwise and diced Step 2. Flattening the butter. Mixing
B akin g. The dough needs a hot start
1 ½ tsp salt it rapidly with the flour, flatten the
at 450°F on a slightly dampened
3 cups all-purpose flour, preferably chilled butter to 7/s by ½ -inch
baking sheet-to hold it down until it ·
unbleached (scooped and leveled), ovals-the size of flattish fordhook
has puffed and browned, then a lower
plus more for sprinkling lima beans-either briefly in the
temperature, usually 400°F, to finish.
1 cup plain bleached cake flour mixer with the flat beater, or squeez-
Remember you have all those leaves
1 cup, more or less, ice water ing it rapidly between the balls of
of dough to cook through-- 7 3 0 of
them at least, and a large piece takes your fingers, as shown in illustration,
a certain time to crisp. step 2. It is important that the butter
Essential: a straight rolling pin 16 to
remain cold-if it has softened, re-
18 inches long; a pastry scraper; a
frigerate the mixture for 2 0 to 3 0
baking sheet with at least 1 straight
minutes.
edge (for turning pastry, step 5).
Storing baked puff pastry. It is Useful: a heavy-duty electric mixer
at its,very best when freshly baked, with flat beater; a marble slab to
but you can keep it for a certain work on ( page 3 82)
amount of time in a warming oven.
To Make French Puff Pastry Dough

(continued)
Step 3. Adding the ice water. If you

are using a mixer, blend in ¾ cup of
the ice water at slow speed, blending
in droplets more water just until the
dough will mass; then turn it out
onto your work surface. By hand,
blend and turn with a pastry scraper
(illustration, step 3), until the dough 3. Blending in the ice water 7. Flipping dough again to form the 3 layers for
the second turn
holds together when massed. It will
look an impossible mess.
Step 4. Forming the rectangle. Flour-

ing the top lightly as necessary, rap-
idly push, pat, and roll the dough
into a rough rectangle (illustration,
step 4). If it seems too dry and
breaks too much, sprinkle on drop-
lets of water. Do not worry-it will
look as awful as it does here, which is
just the way it should be.
4. Patting out the dough into a rectangle 8. Folding one-third of the dough rectangle over
the third time
Step 5. Flipping and folding the rectan-
gle. When the rectangle is 18 inches
long, flip one end over onto the Step 7. Folding again into 3, the second
middle, using the straight edge of the turn . Again fold the dough into 3 lay-
pastry sheet (illustration , step 5). ers like a business letter-again
using the pastry sheet to help you (il-
Flip the other end over to cover it , lustration, step 7). Turn 2 is now
like folding a business letter. You completed.
now have 3 layers of dough. Scrape
your work surface clean, flour it Step 8. Turns 3 and 4. Working fast
to prevent the dough from softening,
lightly, and rotate the dough so the
top flap is at your right (as in step 9). S. Using a pastry sheet to help you flip one-third of make 2 more turns, always cleaning
the dough onto middle off and lightly flouring your work
This first rolling out and folding is
surface and rolling pin. Keep your
known as the first turn.
rectangle neat, shoring up the ends
and sides with the side of your roll-
Step 6. Rolling the dough again into a
ing pin and pastry scraper (illustra:-
rectangle. Flour the top of the dough
lightly, then push, pat, and roll it tion , step 8). As you finish the third
again into an 18-inch rectangle (illus- turn , your formerly unsightly mess is
tration, step 6)-it is looking a little beginning to look like a real dough .
better. Always keep your rolling pin
clean and lightly floured. (If the
dough has lost its chill, refrigerate it
at once for 20 to 30 minutes.) 6. Rolling dough agai n into a rectangle
JULIACHILDTHEWAYTOCOOK PASTRYDOUGHS 391
RECIPES USING FRENCH thick. Cut into 6 even rectangles, and

PUFF PASTRY arrange upside down on a dampened
baking sheet. Chill 3 0 minutes be-
Here are just some of the attractive fore baking, or wrap and freeze.
iterns you can make using puff
pastry. Baking-15 minutes at 450°F. Just
before baking, plunge a sharp skewer
down through each pastry in 3
places-this helps stabilize the layers.
Puffed Rectangles: Feuilletes Paint the tops with 2 coats of egg
9. Completing the 3-layer dough package after the
fourth turn glaze ( 1 egg beaten with 1 tsp water),
A stack of puff pastry rectangles in and cut shallow cross-hatchings on
your freezer is a marvelously useful the surface, going down into the
Step 9. Finishing the dough. When resource for quick and elegant first dough with the point of a small
you have completed the fourth turn courses, luncheon dishes, and des- knife. Bake in the preheated oven un-
(illustration, step 9), you do have a serts. Take them from your til nicely puffed and brown, as in the
real dough. It now needs a rest of at freezer-there's the raw dough on illustration-the sides should feel
least 45 minutes in the refrigerator to the left-pop them into the oven, cnsp.
relax the gluten and to recongeal the and in 15 minutes-by the time
butter. Following its rest, give the you've made your filling-the pastry
dough 2 more turns and it is ready to has baked into the lightly browned,
roll out, form, and bake. SERVING SUGGESTIONS:
flaky, buttery wonder you see on the
right.
*Ahead-of-time notes: After either the As a First Course or
fourth or the sixth turn you may re- For 6 rectangles, 2 ½ by 5 inches. Roll
Luncheon Dish
frigerate the dough for 2 to 3 days- out a third of the master recipe into
longer, and its unbleached flour will Split the rectangle crosswise in two.
an 8- by 10-inch rectangle ¼ inch
turn grayish. On the other hand, puff On the bottom half place several
pastry dough will keep perfectly in cooked asparagus spears, or a group
the freezer for several months-if of cooked broccoli florets, or sauteed
you are planning a high-rising baked wild mushrooms, lobster, or crab.
pastry, however, you may find it best Spoon over it a delicious white butter
to freeze a four-turn dough, and sauce, page 272, or hollandaise, page
complete the final turns just before 87; cover with the pastry top; and
baking. In any case, be sure to mark serve at once.
on the package how many turns have
been given.
Raw and baked puff pastry rectangles
Puff pastry rectangle with hollandaise
(continued)
across and ¼ •i nch thick, then stack

between sheets of plastic in the SPECIAL NOTE
freezer. They defrost and soften

enough to use in the few minutes re- Mock Puff Pastry: Flaky
quired to fix the trimmings-and Pastry
you're then ready to bake them.
They're easy to form-here's an For tarts, for little appetizers and
apple tart waiting to be baked at left, puffs, for the caramelized sugar
and an onion tart at right. Puff pastry cookies, Couques, on page 490, a
makes a crust quite different from mock puff pastry does nicely. Make
Puff pastry rectangle with strawberries and
whipped cream pastry dough-especially tender, it from butter pastry dough ( page
buttery, and flaky. 3 8 1) or from puff pastry dough
scraps.
Puffed Rectangles: Feuilletes ( continued)
As an example, roll the dough into a

As a Dessert Baking note: Although the pastries rectangle ¼ inch thick, 14 inches
are described as baking on a pastry long, and 5 inches wide. Spread the
Strew sliced strawberries, sliced fresh top two-thirds with 2 tablespoons of
sheet, you'll always have the best
peaches, or a big handful of raspber- softened butter and fold the unbut-
crust when you use the preheated
ries over the hot bottom half of the tered bottom third up to the middle,
baking stone system for pizza on
pastry, sugar lightly, and top it with then fold the buttered top third over
page 55. Form the open-faced tart on
whipped cream or the Zabaione Sauce to cover it, making 3 neat layers. Re-
heavy buttered foil set on a paddle,
on page 4 5 3 . See also the wo~derful peat with another 2 tablespoons of
then slip the tart-on-foil onto the hot
combination of caramelized pears, butter, then wrap and refrigerate for
stone.
pastry cream, and puff pastry on 45 minutes or so. Give it 2 more
page 436. turns, without the butter this time,
and the dough is ready to use.
INSTANT PIES AND TARTS

FROM YOUR FREEZER
Top any humble pie with a puff pas-

try crust, and you'll have a winner,
like the chicken pot pie described on
page 148. To have toppings or pastry Apple tart at left read y for the oven : onion tart at
shell makings always on hand, roll right
out disks of puff pastry 10 inches
Variations
Folding buttered rectangle of dough into 3 layers
Fillings and toppings are almost infi-

nite-see the ideas for quiches start-
ing on page 3 84.
Puff pastry tops this chicken pot pie.

Fruit Tarts
A 10-inch pastry disk makes an 8-

inch tart, which will serve 4 people
nicely. Place it on a lightly dampened
baking sheet, then, leaving a 1-inch
border free, prick the bottom of the
dough all over at ¼ -inch intervals
with the tines of a table fork. Paint
the fork-marked bottom with apricot
glaze ( page 4 2 7), and arrange slices
of apple or pear attractively on top.
Then crimp the edges to hold the
fruit, and sprinkle the fruit with a
tablespoon of sugar. Bake 3 0 to 40
minutes in the middle level of a pre-
heated 45 0°F oven, until the bottom
of the pastry is crisp and brown.
Paint the finished tart with apricot
glaze.
Glazed apple tart
An Onion Tart: Pissaladiere
Cook 4 cups of sliced onions slowly

for 25 minutes or so in 3 tablespoons
of olive oil, with salt to taste and a
sprinkling of Provenc;;al herb mix-
ture. When thoroughly tender care-
fully correct seasoning and let cool to
tepid. Meanwhile prepare the pastry
disk as for the fruit tarts. Spread on a
tablespoon of grated Swiss or Parme-
san cheese, then the onions. Strew 3
more tablespoons of cheese over the
onions, and arrange severai anchovy
fillets decoratively on top. Crimp the
edges of the pastry to enclose the fill-
ing. Bake 3 0 to 40 minutes as for the
fruit tart.
Onion Tart: Pissaladiere

OPEN-FACED FREE-FORM Press the strips in place, slightly Roquefort Cheese Tart
PUFF PASTRY TARTS overlapping at the corners as illus-
trated, step 1. For a 10- by 16-inch tart, serving 12,
Like the open-faced free-form tarts or serving at least double that amount
made from butter pastry dough on Seal the outside edges by pressing the as cocktail appetizers
page 3 82, puff pastry shells may be top with your fingers while pressing
any size and shape-a tart made with the sides with the back of a fork. Crumble a cup or so of Roquefort
puff pastry is particularly succulent, cheese into the tart. Whisk 3 egg
buttery, and elegant in the mouth. I yolks with 1 ½ cups of light cream,
favor the rectangular shape just be- season with salt, pepper, and drops of
cause it is easy to serve and produces Worcestershire; pour over the cheese.
a minimum of dough scraps. Bake about 40 minutes at 450°F, un-
til the bottom is browned and the
sides are crisp.
To Form an Open-Faced
Tart Shell
VARIATION
Roll out a rectangle of puff pastry 1/s I. Laying pastry strips over dampened dough edges
Other Cheeses
inch thick. Roll it up on your pin
and unroll it upside down on a lightly Then press a design on the tops with Use other cheeses in the same way,
dampened pastry sheet. Prick its en- the tines of the fork, step 2. especially Swiss or Cheddar, or make
tire surface with the tines of a table
a mixture such as cream cheese and
fork-the rectangle illustrated here Cover and chill 3 0 minutes-or blue cheese, or cream or goat cheese
is about 16 inches long and 10 inches freeze. and herbs.
across. For edging, cut inch-wide
strips ¼ inch thick: their rapid puff
in the oven will hold in the filling.
Paint a I-inch border of cold water Apple or Pear Tart
around the rectangle.
Use the same system here as for the
previous round puff pastry disk apple
tart, painting the bottom of the
dough with apricot glaze ( page 427),
arranging the apples on top, and
sprinkling them with 2 tablespoons
2. Sealing and decorating dough strip with a fork or so of sugar. Bake 40 minutes at
450°F, then another 15 or 20 at
400°F, until the bottom is nicely
browned and the sides are crisp.
Baking-about 1 hour at 450°F and

400°F. Bake in the lower middle
level of the preheated oven. When
puffed and lightly brown, in 20 min-
utes or so, reduce heat to 400°F and
bake about 3 0 minutes more until
the sides are crisp.
'
Puffed Tidbits: Fleurons
These are attractive accompaniments

to clear soups, sauced appetizers, and
fancy fish dishes . Roll the reconsti-
tuted dough (see next page) ¼ inch
thick, and cut into shapes, as illus-
trated. Cover and chill 20 minutes.
To Form and Bake a dough up and over the filling, as

Peekaboo Tart shown. Then roll out a second
slightly smaller rectangle of pastry;
The French name for this is the jal- flour the top, fold in half lengthwise,
ousie, or Venetian blind, which in a and cut the central portion into strips
way it could resemble. This system is as in the illustration. Paint the edges
attractive for cheese tarts and is espe- of the bottom dough lightly with cold Making decorative cross-hatch marks
cially useful for jam tarts. water, unfold, and press the top piece
in place. Wrap and chill 3 0 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 450°F. Paint
Forming. Cut off three fifths of your
with egg glaze ( 1 egg beaten with 1
recipe for chilled puff pastry dough,
teaspoon water), and make cross-
and roll out into a 14- by 16-inch
hatch marks through the glaze into
rectangle 1/s inch thick. Roll it up on
the dough with the point of a small
your pin and unroll upside down on a
knife . Bake 15 minutes at 450°F, un-
slightly dampened baking sheet.
til puffed, browned, and the sides are
Prick the dough all over at ¼-inch
cnsp.
intervals with the tines of a table
fork, going down through the dough
to the baking sheet. Leaving a 1/s-
inch border all around, spread on a
filling such as the preceding Roque- Assembling the tart
fort cheese but with half the amount

of cream, which is added after the
sides are folded over the cheese, the
next step. Or spread the tart with
raspberry jam. Fold the edges of the
CREAM PUFFS, FROM -- • MASTER RECIPE
VERY LARGE TO VERY

SMALL, BOTH SWEET Choux Pastry
Cream Puff Pastry: Pate-a-Choux
AND SAVORY
Here is the basic pastry for whatever
T he pastry that makes cream

puffs, chocolate eclairs, and
the romantic giant shell known as the
Saint-Honore is the pastry that makes
recipe you are using, be it for cream
puffs, gougeres, dumplings, or
quenelles.
Baked Cheese Appetizers, and Fleurons

For 2 ½ cups of pastry
crisp little stuffed appetizers. It can
also become a dumpling or a gnoc- 1 cup water
Cheese Appetizers chi, and is the substance that holds 3 ounces (¾ stick) unsalted butter
together fish mousses and quenelles. cut into 6 pieces
When reconstituting the dough, The official culinary name, pate-a- Seasoning: for desserts, 1/s tsp salt
sprinkle 2 to 3 tablespoons of grated choux, translates as "the pastry for and 1 Tbs sugar; for savories, I
Swiss cheese rather than butter over forming little cabbage shapes," and tsp salt
the rectangle. Fold in 3, roll out, and that is indeed what a cream puff 1 cup all-purpose flour (scooped and
again sprinkle with cheese before resembles. leveled)
folding. Roll out a final time, cut Exactly 1 cup eggs-about 5 "large"
into shapes or twists, cover, and chill Choux pastry is one of the basics, in eggs (blend them together
20 minutes. Glaze and bake as for other words. Happily it is also one of thoroughly with a fork before
the preceding tidbits. the easiest pastries to make: bring a measuring)
little water and butter to the simmer
in a saucepan, dump in flour, beat SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
over heat to thicken it, and whip in a A heavy-bottomed 2-quart stainless

SPECIAL NOTE
few eggs. That's all there is to it- saucepan; a stout wooden spatula or
the eggs make it puff up in the oven. spoon; a 3-quart round-bottomed bowl;
To Reconstitute Leftover
a cake rack
Puff Pastry
MANUFACTURING NOTE. Hand beat-
Always keep puff pastry scraps flat, ing with a whip or portable mixer pro-
to preserve their layers. Paint the duces the lightest and puffiest pastry.
edges lightly with cold water and The food processor is not recommended
press them together into a rectangular because it goes so fast and mixes so thor-
sheet. Roll out to seal, then spread on oughly that you cannot add all the egg
a tablespoon of soft butter. Fold into you need; yet it is egg that makes the
3, like the usual business letter, then puff. And for the puffiest results, form
roll out and fold again. Chill for an and bake as soon as possible after the
hour, and the pastry is ready to use pastry is made, since it firms as it cools
for tarts and informal pieces that and that holds down the puff.
need no dramatic rise.
Preliminaries. Set out all the ingredi- To Form and Bake Small
ents listed; prepare all the baking Puffs
pans, pastry bags, and so forth called
for in whatever recipe you are using. These are the kind you can fill with
Preheat the oven, place the racks something delicious like crab meat
where needed, and you are ready to . '
ice cream, or pastry cream.
begin.
For 3 0 to 3 6 puffs, 1 ¼ inches across
The initial dough. Bring the water to
the boil in the 2-quart pan, with the Egg glaze ( 1 egg, 1 tsp water, and a
I . Pastry beginning to film bottom of pan pinch of salt blended together and
butter and seasoning. As soon as the
butter has melted, remove the pan strained into a small bowl)
from heat, pour in all the flour at The master recipe for warm, freshly
once, and vigorously beat it in-it made choux pastry
will be lumpy at first but smoothes
out rapidly as you beat. As soon as
2 baking sheets about 11 by 17 inches
blended, beat over moderate heat for
and preferably no-stick; a flexible vinyl
a minute or more, until the pastry
pastry bag with ½-inch round tube
balls up, cleans itself off the sides of
opening; a pastry brush. (See The Right
the pan, and begins to film its bottom
Way to Use a Pastry Bag, page 460.)
as illustrated ( step 1). (This step
evaporates excess moisture, so that
2. Beating egg into pastry with wooden spoon Preliminaries. Preheat the oven to
the pastry will absorb as much egg as
425°F, arranging racks in the upper
possible.)
and lower middle levels. Lightly but-
ter the baking sheets; ready the pastry
Adding the eggs. Turn the pastry into
bag and the egg glaze.
the 3-quart bowl and stir with a
wooden spatula or spoon for 3 0 sec-
Forming the puffs. Fill the pastry bag
onds to cool it off briefly. Then make
with the warm choux paste. Spacing
a well in the center of the warm pas-
them 1½ inches apart, squeeze round
try and beat in ¼ cup of the beaten
blobs of it 1 inch high onto the bak-
egg; when blended (it will look
ing sheets, step 1. Dip the pastry
strangely separated at first, step 2),
brush into the egg glaze and rapidly
repeat with another ¼ cup of egg,
3. The pastry just holds its shape.
then another, and half the final bit of
egg. The pastry should just hold its
shape when lifted in the spoon, step
◄
3-thus you'll probably want all of
the remaining egg, but beat it in by
dribbles to be sure the pastry is not
too loose.
The pdte-a-choux is now ready to use.

First here's how to form and bake a
variety of shells.
I . Squeezing out blobs of pastry for small puffs
To Form and Bake To Form and Bake a Giant

Large Puffs Puff Shell
The standard cream puff can be just Make a giant ring, fill it with
slightly larger than the preceding whipped cream, and douse each serv-
small puffs, or twice the size. ing with warm chocolate sauce-a
dramatic presentation that always
Forming. Form them in exactly the brings forth great smiles of pleasure.
same way as the small puffs, but pipe On the other hand, you can use the
2. Shaping up blobs while painting with egg glaze
out the blobs 1 ½ to 2 inches across. same idea for a lunch party-fill a
giant ring with a Salade Ni~oise, as
Baking. Bake at 425°F for 20 min- described and illustrated on page
utes· lower the thermostat to 3 7 5°F, 365.
'
and bake them 10 to 15 minutes
more, until they feel crisp. Then For a giant ring 12 to 14 inches in
pierce and return them to the oven diameter
for 5 minutes to let off steam. Then,
¼ cup flour (for the pastry sheet)
to insure crispness, I always split
The master recipe for warm choux
them horizontally, fork out the damp
pastry
interiors, and let them crisp, inside
Egg glaze (leftover egg or a fresh
sides up, 5 minutes more in the
one, beaten with a pinch of salt
3. Slashing baked puffs to let out steam
turned-off oven.
and droplets of water)

To Form and Bake Small Puffs (continued)
A lightly buttered baking sheet; a pastry
To Form and Bake Ee/airs bag w ith ½ -inch plain tube opening; a
paint each blob, shaping it up nicely
with the brush if necessary, step 2- pastry brush
Eclairs are the loaf-shaped puffs at
be careful not to dribble egg down lower left in the cooked pastry dis- Forming the shell. (Preheat the oven to
the puff onto the baking sheet, as this
play on page 396. Pipe out cylinder 450°F, and set a rack in the lower
could glue blob to sheet and prevent
shapes 2 ½ inches long and ¾ inch middle level.) Sprinkle the flour on
puffing. across, as illustrated. Bake them 20 the buttered baking sheet and shake
minutes at 425°F, ·then 7 to 10 min- to cover it with a light even dusting;
utes, or until crisp, at 37 5°F. Pierce turn the sheet upside down and bang
Immediately place the puffs in the
and return them to the oven for 5 off excess flour. Using a 12- to 14-
preheated oven and shift sheets half-
minutes. They usually need not be inch pot lid as guide, trace a circle· in
way through. Bake until the puffs
split for final crisping.
have about doubled in size, are a nice
golden brown, and are crisp to the
touch. Rapidly remove from the oven
and make a slash in each to let out
steam, step 3; return to the turned-off
oven for 5 minutes. Arrange on the
rack to cool.
Storing. To keep them crisp, store the

puffs in a warming oven, or when
thoroughly cooled in an airtight tin;
or freeze them. Forming eclairs 1. Pi ping out the 3rd ring
Enormous Cream Puff au

Chocolat
With whipped cream filling
For 8 servings
The preceding baked giant puff ring,
cooled
2 cups heavy cream, whipped fairly
stiff, sweetened with
confectioners sugar, and flavored
with pure vanilla extract (page
440)
the flour on the baking sheet. Pipe a browned. Reduce heat to 400°F and 2 cups warm chocolate sauce (page
circle of warm choux paste to cover continue baking IO minutes. Pierce 422)
the circular guide, pipe another circle the sides of the puff in several places
outside the first, and a third to top to let out steam. Lower heat to 3 5 0°F Fill the ring with the whipped cream
them both, as illustrated, step I . and bake IO minutes more . Turn off shortly before serving. Spoon warm
Paint the pastry with the egg glaze, the oven and leave its door ajar for chocolate sauce over the top; pass the
evening out any bumps with the flat another IO minutes-all of this in rest of the sauce separately. Cut into
of your brush. the interest of drying out the puff, portions with a serrated knife.
but there will still be damp pastry in-
Baking-20 to 25 minutes at 450°F. side. Remove the puff from the oven,
Bake until the pastry has puffed to al- and carefully slice in half horizon-
most triple in height and is nicely tally. Scrape uncooked pastry out of Another filling
the bottom and top, step 2. To crisp
the pastry, set the pieces, inside sides The Creme Chiboust-custard sauce
up, on the baking sheet in a 350°F with beaten egg whites-farther
oven for 5 minutes. along, on page 402, would also go
well here, with or without pralin-
pulverized caramelized nuts, page
423. Rather than chocolate, you
Serving Suggestions might use the caramel sauce on page
420.
Here are brief resumes of two splen-
did dessert ideas-assembly jobs,
using standard recipes that appear
elsewhere in this book .
2 . Scraping out uncooked pastry
Gateau Paris-Brest Le Gateau Saint-Honore tively over the tops of the puffs, and
Pastry cream and almond filling A ring of puffs set on a pastry disk fill the shell-suggestions follow.
For 8 servings · This is a fantasy pastry shell, where Serving. Cut the shell into wedges
the bottom is a crisp disk of pastry like a pie, scooping up the filling
½ cup pralin (pulverized
onto which a puff ring is glued with along with it.
caramelized almonds, page 423)
caramel. Resting on the ring is a gar-
4 cups of filling
land of little puffs, all decorated with
Either: 2 cups chilled pastry cream
strands of caramel (see photo, page
(page 402) folded with 2 cups of
396, middle). Except for the cara- Leftover choux pas re becomes
whipped cream (1 cup heavy
mel, you can have all parts of this pastry cream
cream, whipped)
charming construction stored in your
Or: 4 cups Creme Chiboust
freezer, ready for a quick assembly. If you are planning a custard filling
(pastry cream with Italian
for the Saint-Honore, make the full
meringue, page 402) MANUFACTURING NOTE. You can fill
amount of choux paste called for in
The giant puff, preceding recipe the shell with .anything you deem appro- the master recipe on page 3 9 6. After
topped with ½ cup slivered priate, from berries to sauced fruits, to forming the ring, bring the rest to
almonds spread over the glaze dessert cream. If you decide on a pastry the simmer with enough milk to thin
before baking cream bas(}., see the shortcut suggestion at it into a thick sauce that will hold its
Optional accompaniment: fresh the end of this recipe. shape softly in a spoon-and you
raspberries or strawberries, or
have made a reasonable facsimile of
sliced peaches tossed with lemon For a 10-inch shell; serving 8 the pastry cream described farther
and sugar
A 10- by 3/16-inch baked disk of your on.
Shortly before serving, gently fold best butter pastry dough, such as
the pralin into the filling. Spoon the the formula on page 381
filling into the bottom of the giant ¾ cup warm caramel (page 421) VARIATIONS
choux circle, and gently replace the A single baked ring of choux pastry
top of the ring. Cut into portions (the first ring of the 3 piped out Fruit Fillings
with a serrated knife, and accompany for the preceding giant pufD
with the optional fruit. 20 to 24 small baked puffs (page Fill the shell with ripe strawberries
397) or raspberries, or sliced peaches or
mangoes, and pass sugar, lemon, and
Forming the shell. Place the disk of whipped cream separately.
The Giant Ni~oise dough on a serving platter. Dot the
Salade Ring bottom of the puff ring with blobs of
warm caramel and place on the disk.
This unusual presentation is de- Dip the bottoms of the puffs in the Whipped Cream or
scribed and illustrated on page 366, caramel, and arrange them on top of Pastry Cream
in the salad chapter. r the ring.
Or follow the filling suggestions for
*Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared the Paris-Brest, using whipped
several hours ahead; store in a warm cream, or pastry cream ( page 402)
dry place. folded with whipped cream, or the
pastry cream variation, Creme Chi-
Final assembly. Shortly before serv- boust-pastry cream with beaten egg
ing, dribble warm caramel decora- whites. You may wish to pass berries
separately, or a strawberry or rasp-
berry sauce ( page 41 9).
FOUR EXAMPLES OF Pastty Cream Filling-the Cream Puff Fillings:

SMALL FILLED PUFFS Classic Cream Puff Pastry Creams
When you need a group of do-ahead Ice cream and whipped cream are
VARIATIONS puffs, rather than whipped cream lovely fillings for cream puffs, but
substitute the pastry cream at the end you have to serve them soon or the
Profiteroles: Ice Cream Puffs of this section, or its variation with cream softens and soggifies the puff.
beaten egg whites, and glaze them That's why pastry cream came along,
After baking and just before serving, with the royal icing on page 487. a thick custard sauce flavored with
slit the puffs in half horizontally, rap- vanilla and/or liqueur.
idly spoon slightly softened vanilla
ice cream into the bottom half of
each, replace the cap, and set 3 or 4 Cocktail Puffs Filled with
Crab Meat Manufacturing notes
on each dessert dish. Dribble a good
spoonful of warm chocolate sauce Or other shellfish
Cornstarch vs. flour. Pastry cream
( page 422) over each, and serve.
You will want about a half tablespoon needs an additional thickening be-
of impeccably flavored filling per sides egg yolks, and that thickener is
small puff either flour or cornstarch. You may
Whipped Cream Filling use either one or a mixture of half
For 3 6 small puffs, about 2 ½ cups of starch and half flour. Cornstarch pro-
filling duces a more delicate custard, but I
Substitute fairly stiffiy beaten
find it a bit lump prone when cold,
whipped cream, sweetened with con- 2 cups (1 pound) fine, fresh-smelling unless mixed with whipped cream or
fectioners sugar and flavored with va- cooked shellfish meat
nilla ( page 440), for the vanilla ice meringue.
3 Tbs very finely minced tender
cream . In this case you may wish to celery stalks A lighter touch. The basic recipe to
slit the side of the puff and pipe in 1 Tbs very finely minced shallots or follow can be made either with milk
the cream through a pastry bag; you scallions or with half-and-half, and I need not
need not rush to serve them, but I lemon say which is the tastier version. You
don't dally too long or the puffs will Salt and freshly ground white pepper can lighten the custard by folding in
lose their crisp. 2 to 3 Tbs finely minced fresh a bit of whipped cream , as suggested
parsley, and/or chives or dill in the recipe, or of meringue, as de-
¼ to 1/3 cup best-quality mayonnaise scribed in the variation following.
36 small baked puffs (see page 397)
The filling . Blend the shellfish meat in

a bowl with the celery and shallots or
scallions. Flavor carefully with drops
of lemon juice, salt and pepper to
taste, and herbs. Fold in just enough
mayonnaise to bind.
*Ahead-of-time note: Cover and re-

frigerate until shortly before serving.
Filling the puffs. Shortly before serv-

ing, split the puffs in half horizon-
tally and spoon in the filling.
Pastry Cream: Creme Chilling. Stir up frequently until For about 4 cups offilling, which would
Patissiere cool; then clean off the sides of the do nicely for the preceding Saint-
bowl, press a sheet of plastic wrap Honore or the Paris-Brest
For about 2 ½ cups into the surface to keep a skin from
For the Italian meringue
forming, and refrigerate.
6 egg yolks The egg whites: 1/3 cup (2 "large")
½ cup sugar egg whites; a small pinch of salt; a
*Ahead-of-time note: May be refriger-
A pinch of salt big pinch of cream of tartar
ated for 2 to 3 days; may be frozen.
½ cup all-purpose flour or
The sugar syrup: % cup sugar; ¼
cornstarch, or a mixture of both,
Before using. Whisk up the chilled cup water
in a sifter
pastry cream and taste carefully: you
2 cups milk or half-and-half, heated 2½ cups pastry cream (see preceding
may want to correct the flavoring, or
A little additional milk, if needed recipe)
you may wish to lighten it by folding
Flavoring: 1 Tbs pure vanilla Additional pure vanilla extract and/
in a little whipped cream-½ cup
extract, or ½ Tbs vanilla and 2 or liqueur, if needed
heavy cream should be enough to
Tbs rum or kirsch
whip for a moderate lightening. SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
2 Tbs unsalted butter, optional
A table-model electric mixer with whip
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: attachment
A wire whisk; a 2-quart stainless sauce- VAR IATIO N
pan; a wooden spatula or spoon The Italian meringue. Following the
Creme Chiboust: Pastry detailed directions on page 462, beat
The custard mixture. Whisk the yolks Cream with Italian Meringue the egg whites to soft peaks and leave
in the saucepan, gradually beating in A filling for cream puffs, tarts, and cakes the mixer running at low speed.
the sugar and salt; continue whisking Meanwhile boil the sugar and water
2 to 3 minutes, until the mixture is Chiboust-that odd name belonged, to the soft-ball stage ( page 421 ),
thick and lemon colored. Sift on the it is rumored, to the Parisian pastry and, with the mixer going, dribble
flour and/or cornstarch and whisk it chef who invented this cream in the the hot syrup into the egg whites.
in. Then, by dribbles at first, blend 1800's, and we must be thankful to Beat at high speed for 5 minutes or
in the hot milk or cream. this genius for creating a perfect and more, until the egg whites are cool to
delicious do-ahead custard filling. the touch and form beautifully stiff
The cooking. Whisk rather slowly shining peaks.
over moderate heat. As the custard Italian meringue is boiling sugar
comes to the boil, it will start to syrup whipped into beaten egg Combining meringue and pastry cream.
lump-beat vigorously to smooth it. whites-it's good old American Beat up the pastry cream to loosen it,
Then change from whisk to wooden boiled white mountain frosting, in pile the meringue on top, and fold
spoon, and stir over moderately low other words. Fold a cup or more of the two together. Fold in a little more
heat, reaching all over the bottom of the meringue into the recipe for pas- flavoring if you think it needed.
the pan, for 2 minutes, to cook the try cream and you have lightened the
flour. You will have a thick sauce that custard, as well as giving it more *Ahead-of-time note: Will keep under
holds its shape softly in a spoon-if volume and staying power. refrigeration in a covered bowl for a
it seems too thick, set again over day or more.
heat, whisking in droplets more of
milk. Remove from heat and blend
in the flavoring and the optional but-
ter. Pass the sauce through a fine-
meshed sieve into a bowl.
Two top-notch recipes for TWO PUFFED CHEESE 425°F oven for 20 minutes, or until
leftover Creme C hiboust APPETIZERS AND A BATCH puffed and browned. Turn the oven
OF TENDER DUMPLINGS down to 400°F and continue baking
10 minutes or so more, until the
Beat cheese into your ready-made sides feel crisp. You might accom-
A Simple Trifle warm choux pastry, and it will bake pany the gougeres, as a first course or
into cheese puffs, little ones for cock- luncheon dish, with a small salad of
Serve leftover Creme Chiboust in in- tails or the great big gougeres that curly endive with garlic and bacon
dividual coupes, the cream folded makes an amusing first course. dressing ( page 3 53).
with smallish pieces of sponge cake
that have been imbibed in the rum
syrup on page 459.
Small Cheese Puffs Tender Cheese and Parsley
Dumplings: Gnocchi
For about 3 6 pieces, beat 1 cup of
French Vanilla Custard finely grated Swiss cheese into the Warm choux pastry mi xed with
Ice Cream master recipe for 2 cups of warm cheese and parsley-squeeze and cut
choux pastry. Form and bake the small shapes out of a pastry bag (or
Fold leftover Creme Chiboust with puffs as for the small puffs on page nudge them off a teaspoon) to poach
an equal amount of lightly whipped 397, but top each with a pinch of gently in simmering water. Served
cream and freeze in a covered bowl; cheese rather than egg glaze. Bake 15 with melted butter and grated cheese,
when almost set, beat vigorously to minutes in a preheated 425°F oven, or gratineed, gnocchi can be a hot
break up any crystals. Return the ice until puffed, crisp, and brown. They first course or luncheon dish, or let
cream to the freezer until set. freeze and reheat beautifully. them accompany steaks or roasts or a
vegetable plate.
For 4 to 6 servings as a first course or

The Gougeres as an accompaniment
A cheese puff crown
2 cups warm choux pastry (the
master recipe on page 396, but
Using the same mixture as for the
made with 4 rather than 5 eggs)
small cheese puffs, nudge large gobs
½ cup finely minced fresh parsley
of the pastry in a circle on a lightly
1 cup finely grated Parmesan or
buttered baking sheet, as illustrated.
other hard cheese
Top with a sprinkling of cheese, and
3 or more Tbs melted butter
set in the middle level of a preheated
½ cup finely grated Parmesan or
other hard cheese
Forming and preliminary cooking. Beat

into the warm pastry the parsley and
the 1 cup of cheese. Turn the mixture
into a pastry bag and, using kitchen
(continued)
Forming a circle of blobs, for cheese puff crown

Clipping off bits of pastry into the barely simmering

water
Tender Cheese and Parsley Dumplings:

Gnocchi (continued)
shears dipped in hot water as illus-

trated, rapidly clip off ¾-inch bits of
the pastry into a pan of lightly salted
barely simmering water. They will
sink at first, and then rise to the sur-
face. Clock them 6 to 7 minutes from
Clockwise from upper left: Rolled crepes stuffed with mushroom; Classic Crepes Suzette; Crepes Souffie
the time they rise, and keep the water
Mariposa; Tower of Crepes with lobster
at the bare simmer.
*Ahead-of-time note: They may sit in CREPES cheese and chicken filling. The sec-
the hot water for ½ hour or so before ond example is a tower of crepes each
serving. Or, for advance cooking,
drop them into a bowl of cold water,
let them sink, then remove and drain
on paper towels.
T he crepe, that famous thin
light French pancake, is any
cook's good friend. Crepes cook in a
minute or less, and can be made
with its own filling-or how to be
dramatic on dressier occasions.
For dessert there are two easy apple

crepes, a very dressy souffi.eed crepe
Serving. hours before serving. Not only with strawberry sauce, and the finale
hours, but weeks and months ahead is that marvelously buttery, caramel-
Immediate serving. Dip the gnocchi since crepes freeze perfectly. ized, orange- and Cognac-flavored
out of the hot water with a wire all-time favorite, Crepes Suzette.
skimmer or slotted spoon; let each The following section gives recipes
group drain well before arranging on and ideas both for main-course dishes
warm plates or a platter. Baste with and desserts, and formulae for the
the melted butter, sprinkle on the ½ all-purpose crepe batter which will
cup of cheese, and serve at once. serve both, plus a lighter and more
delicate crepe for desserts alone.
Gratineed. Arrange the drained
gnocchi in a buttered baking dish, In the first among the main-course
baste with the butter, spread on the dishes the crepes are rolled with a
cheese, and bake 20 minutes or so in
the upper third level of a preheated
400°F oven, until bubbling hot and
the cheese has browned lightly.
•- • MASTER RECIPE The crepe batter. Measure the flour Storing. Transfer the crepes as done
into the pitcher or a bowl, then whisk to the rack and, when thoroughly
An All-Purpose Crepe in by dribbles the milk and water to cool, you may stack them with no
Formula make a perfectly smooth blend (if fear of their sticking. Slip them into
using regular flour, after mixing a plastic bag; store in the refrigerator
This is the crepe that goes around, pour the batter through a fairly fine- up to 2 days,. or freeze for several
under, or on top of almost anything, meshed sieve to remove any lumps). weeks.
from entree to dessert-the formula Whisk in the eggs, salt, and 3 table-
you want in your freezer. spoons of melted butter. Let rest 10
minutes- I hour or more in the re-
VA RIATIO N
MANUFACTU RI NG NOTE. I like in- frigerator for regular all-purpose
stant-blending flour ( that sandy-feeling flour.
granular flour) for crepes since the bat- Large Crepes (for 8 to 10)
ter is ready to use after only a I 0- Cooking the crepes. Heat the crepe
minute rest, which is needed for the Cook large crepes in exactly the same
pan until drops of water dance on it, manner-I like the 10-inch no-stick
flour granules to absorb the liquid and then brush lightly with melted butter.
make a tender crepe. Regular flour pan here .
Pour ¼ cup of crepe batter into the
wants a rest of an hour or more. center of the hot pan and tilt it in all
directions. The batter should cover
For 2 0 crepes 5 ½ inches across, or 8 to the pan with a light coating; pour out Dessert Crepe Formula
I O crepes 8 inches across any excess. After 3 0 seconds or so,
1 cup flour (instant-blending the bottom of the crepe should be This recipe produces a lighter and
preferred, but all-purpose, lightly browned-lift an edge with a more delicate crepe , designed espe-
scooped and leveled, w ill do ; see spatula to see, as illustrated. cially for dessert. It is made and
preceding note) cooked the same way as the all-
% cup each milk and cold water purpose crepes.
3 "large" eggs
¼ tsp salt For 8 to IO crepes 5 ½ inches across, or
6 Tbs clear melted butter (butter 4 to 5 crepes 8 inches across
spooned off the milky residue)
½ cup flour (instant-blending
SPECIA L EQUI PMENT SUGGESTED: suggested; otherwise see note
A whisk; a 2-quart measuring pitcher is preceding the master recipe)
useful; a frying pan with 5 ½ to 6 1 "large" egg and 1 egg yolk
inches bottom diameter-I like heavy- ¼ cup each milk and water
duty no-stick, but a well-seasoned cast- Lifting an edge of crepe to see underside 1 ½ Tbs melted butter
iron pan works well, too; a large cake 1 Tbs kirsch, orange liqueur,
rack bourbon whiskey, or rum
Shake and jerk the pan by its handle 1 Tbs sugar
to dislodge the crepe, then turn it A big pinch of salt
over either with your fingers or a
spatula, or flip it over by a toss of the
pan. Cook it 15 to 20 seconds-this
underside is the nonpublic side, and
is never more than a spotty brown.
ENTREE CREPES SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: Chicken and Mushroom

For appetizers, luncheons, A heavy-bottomed 2-quart stainless Roulades
first courses saucepan; a whisk and a w ooden spoon
For 4 servings, 2 roulades each
Roulades are the quick-and-easy The sauce base. Measure the flour into
the saucepan and whisk in the milk 1 ½ cups sliced onions
crepe dishes-fold almost anything 1/3
by dribbles; when well blended and cup dry white French vermouth
handy into an all-purpose cheese
smooth, set over moderately high % cup chicken broth
sauce, roll it up in a crepe, top with a
heat. Add the butter if you are using 1 cup fresh mushrooms, washed,
little more sauce and a sprinkle of
it, and bring to the simmer, stirring dried, and sliced
cheese, and it's ready for the oven.
with a wooden spoon. As the sauce 2 skinless and boneless raw chicken
thickens, beat vigorously with the breast halves, diced
whisk to smooth out lumps. Simmer, Salt and freshly ground pepper
All-Purpose Cheese Sauce stirring with the wooden spoon, for 2 1 % cups of the preceding All-
For crepe fillings and toppings minutes to cook the flour. The sauce Purpose Cheese Sauce
will be very thick. 8 crepes, 5½ inches across (see
This is our friend the white sauce- master recipe, page 405)
the bechamel, with the addition of In go the eggs. Remove from heat and A little milk, as needed
whole egg and egg yolks, which give vigorously beat the egg mixture into 3 Tbs grated Swiss cheese
the sauce sufficient body to hold a fill- the hot sauce; beat in salt and pepper
ing in suspension. Make enough so to taste, hot pepper sauce, and nut-
meg-carefully correct seasoning. A 10-inch frying pan; a lightly buttered
that you can dilute what is left over,
Let cool several minutes, whisking baking and serving dish
to be used as sauce for the topping.
occasionally, then stir in the cheese.
The filling . Simmer the onions in the
For 2 cups of sauce
*Ahead-of-time note: If not to be used frying pan with the vermouth and
½ cup all-purpose flour (scooped and almost at once, lay a piece of plastic broth for 8 to 10 minutes, until ten-
leveled) wrap on top to prevent a skin from der and translucent. Stir in the
1¼ cups milk forming. May be stirred over hot mushrooms , cover the pan, and let
4 Tbs butter, optional water to warm and reheat-but just cook 2 minutes while they render
1 "large" ,!gg and 2 egg yolks, to tepid, only to loosen and their juices. Fold the diced raw
whisked to blend in a bowl with decongeal. chicken into the mushrooms and on-
¼ tsp salt ions, season lightly with salt and pep-
Seasonings: salt, freshly ground per, cover the pan again, and let
white pepper, drops of hot pepper simmer 1 minute. Uncover the pan
sauce, and a speck of nutmeg and boil rapidly uncovered until all
% cup grated Swiss cheese liquid has almost evaporated-I to 2
minutes. Fold in just enough of the
cheese sauce to enrobe the ingredi-
ents- ½ to ½ cup. Taste carefully
and correct seasoning.
evaporate it almost completely. Fold

in ½ cup of the cheese sauce. Warm
the broccoli in a spoonful of butter,
seasoning lightly and folding in ½
cup of the sauce . Simmer the mush-
rooms for 2 minutes in a covered pan
with a tablespoon each of lemon juice
and cold water; uncover, and rapidly
boil down to evaporate the liquid,
then fold in ½ cup of sauce.
Rolling up a crepe with filling
Assembling. Center a crepe in the bak-

Forming the roulades. Place 2 to 3 A Tower of Crepes ing dish, spoon on half of one filling,
tablespoons of filling on the bottom as illustrated, cover with a crepe and
third of each crepe-on the under A more dressy presentation is the half of another filling, and so on,
and less attractive side. Roll into a fat tower of crepes, where they are lay- ending with a crepe. Simmer the re-
sausage shape, as illustrated, and ered upon each other with filling in maining ½ cup of sauce with a little
place seam side down in the buttered between-all the same filling, or dif- milk to thin it slightly, and pour over
baking dish. Bring ½ cup of the ferent ones as suggested here. Of the tower of crepes; top with a sprin-
cheese sauce to the simmer, and add course you don't have to include lob- kling of cheese.
droplets of milk, thinning it so that it ster-crab, shrimp, or chicken will
coats the back of a spoon nicely. do nicely-but the tower is a rela-
Spoon the sauce over each roulade, tively economical way to serve lobster
and sprinkle cheese over each. to 6 or 8 very important people.
*Ahead-of-time note: May be com- For 6 to 8 servings

pleted to this point in advance; cover
2 cups cooked lobster meat
and refrigerate.
Baking-25 minutes at 400°F. Bake
in the upper third level of the pre-
¼ cup dry white French vermouth
heated oven just until bubbling hot Layering on the fillings
2 cups of the All-Purpose Cheese
and the cheese has browned lightly on
Sauce
top.
2 cups lightly cooked broccoli florets *Ahead-of-time note: May be com-
3 cups fresh mushrooms, trimmed, pleted to this point; cover with an up-
washed, and quartered turned bowl and refrigerate.
VARIATIONS The juice of ½ lemon
7 crepes, 8 inches across (see master Baking-about 30 minutes at 400°F.
Other Fillings recipe, page 405) Bake in the lower middle level of the
Droplets of milk, as needed preheated oven until bubbling hot
Chicken livers or sweetbreads and 3 to 4 Tbs grated Swiss Cheese and lightly browned on top.
mushrooms make excellent fillings, 2 cups fresh tomato sauce (page 358)
as does lobster or crab meat, broccoli 1 cup fresh parsley sprigs, optional Serving. Serve surrounded by the to-
or spinach, or diced ham-and you'll mato sauce and, if you wish, a gar-
think of many more combinations. The fillings. Saute the lobster briefly land of parsley sprigs. Cut into
All are done in about the same way. with a spoonful of butter and shal- wedges, like a cake.
lots, season lightly, add the ver-
mouth, and rapidly boil down to
CREPES FOR DESSERT Giant Flip-Flop Fruit-Filled

Crepes
Suzette is not the only crepe des- Les Douces et Grandes Sauterelles
sert- remember the apple, and the
strawberry, and the souffie. Here are The giant crepe makes a quick dessert,
examples of each. and an amusing informal one, which as
a final touch can also be flamed for fun
and drama. Sauterelles-sweet large
grasshoppers-is the fanciful French
Flaming Apple Crepes here, referring to the act of tossing the
Assembling apple crepes
giant crepe over by a flip of the pan. If
Flaming Apple Crepes make an easy you happen to have oven-baked apple
and appealing dessert, especially Assembling. Arrange 4 to 6 apple slices on hand, it's an even quicker dish;
when you have crepes in the freezer slices on one half of the under side of otherwise cook them as indicated here.
and baked apple slices in the fridge. each crepe; fold the other half over,
It is also something that will come to as illustrated. As you fill the crepes, For 4 servings
mind if you do the apple desserts place them slightly overlapping in
starting on page 424. the buttered baking dish. Sprinkle on Apple topping
the sugar, and drizzle on the butter. 2 or 3 apples that will hold their
For 4 servings, 2 crepes each shape (such as Goldens or
*Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared Granny Smiths), cored, peeled,
32 to 48 Oven-Baked Apple Slices
several hours in advance; cover and and sliced
(page 428) or the sauteed apples
refrigerate. 2 Tbs butter, plus more for greasing
in the next recipe
the crepe pan
8 crepes, 8 inches across (see the
Baking-about 5 minutes at 425°F. ¼ cup sugar
master recipe, page 405, or the
Shortly before serving, bake in the A big pinch of clove, cinnamon, or
dessert crepes following)
upper third level of the preheated mace
2 Tbs sugar
oven until hot through and the sugar 3 Tbs bourbon whiskey
¼ cup melted butter
½ cup bourbon whiskey, rum, or topping is beginning to caramelize. The master recipe for all-purpose
Cognac crepe batter (page 405)-you
To serve. Warm the spirits in the probably will not use all of it
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: small saucepan and bring it on a tray
An attractive lightly buttered baking with the hot crepes to the table. Ig- The flaming finish
and serving dish; an attractive small nite the spirits, pour them flaming 2 Tbs melted butter
saucepan for the flaming spirits; a heat- onto the crepes, and spoon over all 2 Tbs sugar
proof tray; matches; a long-handled until the flames subside. ¼ cup bourbon whiskey
spoon and fork
Two no-stick frying pans, one 1 0 and
one 12 inches
The apples. Saute the apple slices in

the smaller no-stick frying pan for
several minutes with the butter.
When tender, toss with the sugar and
continue cooking a minute or so, un-
til nicely caramelized. Fold in the
spices and bourbon; boil briefly to
evaporate moisture.
To make the giant crepe. When you are Dried Apricot and Almond or
almost ready to serve, film the larger Walnut Filling . Use tenderized
frying pan with a little butter, heat dried apricots rather than prunes,
until almost smoking, then pour in a and, if you wish, chopped walnuts
thin layer of the crepe batter. Imme- rather than almonds.
diately spread the apples over the bat-
ter, and spoon a thin coating of batter
over the filling. Lower heat to mod-
erate, cover the pan, and let cook Crepes Souffle Mariposa
slowly for about 2 minutes, until the Crepes with lemon-almond soufile and
crepe batter has set on top. strawberry sauce
Either flip the crepe over in the pan Anything goes in crepes, including a
and brown lightly for a minute on souffie, and this dramatic dish makes
the other side, flip over again, and a dashing dessert. Although the souf-
slide out onto a hot serving dish. fle mixture may be done in advance,
you must watch the final cooking to
Or brown the top of the crepe lightly be sure of the puff
under a hot broiler and then slide it
For 4 servings SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
out onto the dish.
A 2-quart stainless saucepan, a whisk,
The souffie base and a w ooden spoon for the souffte base;
The flaming finish . At once melt the 2 3 egg yolks egg-white beating equipment; a 12-inch
tablespoons of butter in the hot pan, ¼ cup sugar lightly buttered baking and serving dish
pour the butter over the crepe, ¼ cup flour
sprinkle on the 2 tablespoons of ¾ cup hot milk The souffte base-almond pastry cream.
sugar, and pour the ¼ cup of bour- 1/3 cup pulverized blanched almonds Whisk the egg yolks in the saucepan,
bon in the pan; heat briefly, ignite (page 474) sprinkling in the sugar as you beat,
with a lighted match, pour over the 2 Tbs butter, optional until the mixture is thick and pale
crepe, and serve. 1 tsp pure vanilla extract yellow. Beat in the flour and, when
¼ tsp almond extract thoroughly blended, whisk in by
2 Tbs freshly squeezed lemon juice dribbles the hot milk, then the al-
VARIATIONS A pinch of salt monds. Stir with a wooden spoon
The egg whites over moderately high heat until the
Other Fillings mixture comes to the boil; whisk vig-
5 egg whites(% cup)
orously to avoid lumps, then reduce
Pear Filling. Use the same system
¾ cup sugar
heat to moderate and stir, reaching all
for firm ripe pears full of flavor. 2 dessert crepes, 8 inches across over the bottom and sides of pan, for
(page 405) 2 minutes. Remove from heat; stir in
Confectioners sugar in a fine- the optional butter, the vanilla and al-
meshed sieve mond extracts, lemon juice, and salt.
Prune and Almond Filling. Fresh strawberry sauce (page 419)
Simmer 2/3 cup of tenderized pitted A small handful of candied lemon *Ahead-of-time note: If made ahead,
prunes with ½ cup of dry vermouth, peel (page 415), optional but press a sheet of plastic wrap on top of
a big pinch of cinnamon or mace, the dressy the sauce; before proceeding, reheat
grated rind of½ lemon, and 1 just to tepid, stirring over a pan of
tablespoon of butter. When tender almost-simmering water.
and the liquid has almost entirely
evaporated, fold in ½ cup of toasted
chopped almonds.
Crepes Souffie Mariposa (continued) Classic Crepes Suzette The orange butter. Puree the orange
zest in the processor with the sugar.
Finishing the souffle mixture. Beat the Classic indeed, but the taste is far Add the pieces of butter and process
egg whites until they form soft peaks, from outmoded-delicate French until creamy and fluffy, scraping
then continue beating at high speed as pancakes bathed in caramelized down the sides of the container as
you sprinkle in the sugar; continue orange butter, then flamed in orange necessary. Then, by driblets, add the
beating until the egg whites form liqueur and Cognac. I, for one, who orange juice and the liqueur. Pack
stiff shining peaks. Stir a quarter of have eaten and demonstrated Crepes into the attractive bowl, cover, and
them into the warm souffie base to Suzette many dozens of times, am al- refrigerate.
lighten it; delicately fold in the rest. ways ready for another heavenly bite.
This recipe is essentially that of rriy *Ahead-of-time note: May be refriger-
*Ahead-of-time note: You can cover beloved French chef and teacher Max ated r 2 days; may be frozen.
the mixture now and proceed in ½ Bugnard-of course in those days he
hour or so. Preheat the oven to didn't have a food processor for the
37 5°F before proceeding. orange butter, but I know he would
have approved this speedy modern
Baking-about 20 minutes at 375°F. touch. ting the butter. Have at your
Fold the two crepes in half, best sides e utensils, warm plates,
out, and arrange back to back on the For 6 servings crepe , sugar bowl, liqueurs, and
buttered baking dish. Unfold the oran e butter. Light the flame, set
crepes one at a time, scoop half the Orange butter (about 3 cups)
the di h upon it, and turn in the
souffie mixture into each, and lay the The zests (orange part only) of 2 oran e butter. Let it cook until it
top crepe half back in place. At once, large bright fresh navel oranges boils nd bubbles, and finally thick-
set in the lower middle level of the ½ cup sugar ens i to a syrup-a good 5 minutes
preheated oven and turn it down to 8 ounces (2 sticks) unsalted butter, or m re. Meanwhile busy yourself
3 5 0°F. Bake until the souffies have quartered lengthwise and diced amon your bottles, bowls, and
puffed open the crepes. Rapidly, sieve ½ cup strained freshly squeezed crepe , keeping up an animated
confectioners sugar over the top of orange juice
each and bake a few minutes more to 3 Tbs orange liqueur
be sure the souffies have puffed to o the crepes. One by one, rap-
At the table
their maximum-but don't overcook d adeptly, with long-handled
18 dessert crepes, 5 to 6 inches
or they will collapse. and fork, bathe the crepes on
across (page 405), on a plate
ide in the orange butter; fold in
A bowl of sugar
To serve. As soon as the souffies are est side out, then in half again
Bottles of Cognac and orange
done, remove from the oven; rapidly tom ke a wedge shape. Lay each, as
liqueur
surround with the strawberry sauce, fol de , around the edge of the pan.
The bowl of orange butter
and decorate with the optional lemon
peel. Serve at once, delicately tearing SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
them in two with serving spoon and A food processor; attractive bowls for
fork held back-to-back. the orange butter and the sugar; a serv-
ing skillet or wide chafing dish; a long-
handled fork and spoon; the heat source
(see notes at end of recipe); a ladle for
the liqueur; warm dessert plates
SPECIAL NOTE need a butane gas flame, or a wide- catch any spills and/or flaming
mouthed container filled to the brim particles.
Toftambe with flair: Flambeing is with Sterno .
fun for guests and cooks alike, but it Never pour from the bottle. Flames
is embarrassing for everyone when Hot food. When it comes time to can leap up the stream of alcohol and
the steak Diane won't sear, or the flambe, be sure the food is bubbling right into the bottle-which can then
crepes won't flame, and things just hot or the liqueur won't light. If you explode! It has happened. Always
splutter along. I've run into a peck of have any qualms , heat the liqueur pour from bottle into ladle, and from
troubles here and there, having had first in a separate little pan and then ladle into chafing dish.
to flambe live in public and on the pour it in. Or heat the liqueur,
TV. These are my ground rules: flambe it in its pan , then pour it Secret practice. Try it out several
flaming over the food. times· on your family so that you will
The heat source. If you are really be at ease, and can set your own par-
cooking something, like a steak, or Protecting the table. You don't need ticular style before your first public
bananas, or orange butter, you must a fire extinguisher around when you performance. Aim for fun and infor-
have a strong heat source. A small al- are flambeing , but it is a good idea to mal but high drama-bri ng out a
cohol wick is of no use at all-you set the apparatus on a large tray to little of your own elegant native ham.
The flaming.finale. When all are

done, sprinkle 2 tablespoons of sugar
over the crepes. Pour a good ½ cup
of Cognac from the bottle into the la-
dle, then over the crepes-never
pour from bottle to pan; it's danger-
ous! Ladle on 1/3 cup of orange li-
queur, and let bubble up for several
seconds. Tilt the pan into the flame
(or ignite with a flaming match) and ,
dramatically from on high, spoon the
flaming liquid over the crepes for a
minute or so, and serve.
Desserts
II\
Frozen Desserts, Ice Creams,
and Sherbets
Apple Desserts, Including

Apple Snow and Apple Crisp,
Caramel Apple Mountain,
and Apple Pizza
Dessert Pies and Tarts-

Compotes and Custards
Chocolate Mousse, Christmas Pudding,

and the Immense Fruit Bowl
You can get away with serving a cream, all right, and it's a store-bought hows of frozen desserts, the forming
simple fruit and cheese dessert or ice cake, but imbibing a cake with rum and baking of handsome fruit tarts,
cream from the freezer for informal syrup gives it that certain sophistica- the perfect chocolate mousse and
dinners, but when you are entertain- tion of taste. And when decorated with Christmas pudding. Knowing the
ing important company you usually whipped cream and chopped walnuts, way to the basics and how to put them
want to show off. It should look and served with a strawberry sauce, together means knowing what can be
sumptuous even though it's easy to it looks and tastes like a million. prepared in advance, and that saves
make, like the ice-cream cake pic- But the main thrust of this chap- time and worry.
tured here . It's store-bought ice ter is how to produce the basics-the
FROZEN DESSERTS: ICE Jl\ MASTER RECIPE over the ice cubes and water until
CREAMS AND SHERBETS well chilled. Whisk in the egg
Fresh Lemon Sherbet whites, and freeze according to your
machine directions.
P eople of a certain ancient age

always remember the Sunday
chore of chipping at the big block of
It's lemon sherbet in pa;'rty dress
when you serve it in balloon-shaped
goblets, top it with a julienne of
home-candied lemon peel, and pour
Serving. The moment of serving,
scoop a ball or two of sherbet into
ice to make pieces of freezer-fitting each chilled goblet, pour around it a
size, and of hand cranking for what around it a shallow pool of aquavit. I big spoonful of iced aquavit, and, if
seemed like hours until at last it first had this splendid combination in you wish, fork out a half dozen
would crank no more. How easy it is Venice. strands of the candied peel for
now to make ice creams and sherbets, decoration .
. and we have such a choice of ma- For 2 quarts, serving 10 to 12
chines, from the luxurious self- 4 to 6 large lemons-enough to
contained models to the simple small make ½ scant cup of zests VARIATIONS
hand-crankers that you stick in the (yellow part of peel only) and
freezer itself. 1 cup of juice Fresh Orange Sherbet
2½ cups sugar
I shall not go into the mechanics of 4 cups water Follow the general directions for
freezing, but shall concentrate on a 2 egg whites lightly beaten into a lemon sherbet, using 5 or 6 large fine
handful of formulae that I have foam with 1/s tsp salt navel oranges. After cutting off the
found successful. Although you can 1 cup or so iced aquavit (2 hours in zests, squeeze the juice-you'll want
freeze almost anything containing the the freezer) a quart of juice rather than water.
right proportions, just because it has Candied lemon peel, optional (see Puree half the zests with the sugar, as
frozen well does not mean it will be a Special Note on next page) described, and complete the sherbet.
delight to eat. Fresh pineapple, for Candy the rest of the zests. Serve the
instance-what a great perfume when SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
sherbet with a big spoonful of iced
it is fully ripe; freeze it as is, however, A vegetable peeler; an electric orange liqueur.
and the perfume has almost disap- blender-more efficient for this puree
peared. Freeze a Cranshaw melon and than the food processor; a 2-quart
you have nothing at all, but freeze a saucepan with tight-fitting cover; an ice
strawberry puree and you have the cream scoop; a mixing bowl with a tray Pink Grapefruit Sherbet
essence of the fruit. In other words, of ice cubes and water to cover them,
success depends on the fruit itself and for a quick chill; chilled goblets Follow the general directions for the
its intensity of flavor, and I hope the lemon sherbet,. using 3 or 4 large fine
following will give you ideas to ex- The sherbet. Remove the zests from pink grapefruit, and make the fol-
periment with on your own. the lemons with the vegetable peeler. lowing exceptions. Puree half the
To extract their flavor, pulverize zests for the sherbet, and reserve the
them 2 minutes with I cup of the rest for candying. Then cut off all the
sugar in the electric blender; add I½ white part of the peel to expose the
Terminology Note: cups of the water and pulverize 2 grapefruit flesh. Cut the segments
Sorbet vs. sherbet. minutes more. Pour into the sauce- from the dividing membranes, and
pan, add the rest of the sugar, bring place in a quart measure, adding to it
I know there is sometimes a distinc- to the simmer, and swirl the pan by enough juice from the remains to fill
tion made that the one contains milk its handle for several seconds, until the measure-all juice and pulp, but
and the other does not, or vice versa. you are sure the sugar has completely no water. Proceed with the recipe.
As far as I am concerned they are one dissolved. Remove from heat. Pour Serve the sherbet with a big spoonful
and the same, except that sorbet is in the cup of lemon juice and the rest of iced kirsch.
contemporary cuisine chic-speak. of the water; stir for several minutes
JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK DESSERTS 415
Candying the canned pineapple. Drain *Ahead-of-time note: You may fill and
the juice from the canned pineapple freeze the shell, but let the sherbet
and bring it to the simmer in the soften 15 to 20 minutes in the refrig-
saucepan with the sugar, swirling the erator before decorating and serving.
pan until the sugar has dissolved
completely. Then cover tightly and
boil the syrup to the "crack" stage SPECIAL NOTE
(23 8°F-when bubbles are thick).
Add 3 pineapple slices and boil again Candied Lemon, Orange,
to 238°F-to candy them. Remove or Grapefruit Peel
the slices from the syrup and, when
cool, cover and chill them. Candied citrus peel is a charming
edible decoration for sherbets, pud-
dings, and many fruit desserts. Once
made, refrigerate in a covered jar,
where it will keep for weeks.
Enough for at least 12 servings
Fresh Pineapple Sherbet in The zests ( colored part of peel only)

the Half Shell of 4 large fine lemons, 3 oranges,
or 2 grapefruit
Fresh pineapple by itself, even 1 cup sugar
though beautifully ripe, loses its taste The makings of a pineapple sherbet 1/3 cup water
when frozen. You need therefore to
intensify it but still keep that pure
The fresh pineapple. Cut a cap off the A vegetable peeler; a 6-cup saucepan
pineapple flavor, and a judicious use
side of the pineapple as sown. with tight-fitting cover
of the canned fruit achieves that de-
Using a grapefruit knife or pineapple
sired effect. Serve it in the pineapple
corer, remove the meat and hard cen- Remove the zests with the vegetable
shell.
tral core from the pineapple-except peeler and cut them into neat julienne
for preserving the pineapple shell in- strips 1½ inches long and less than
For about 1 quart, serving 4 to 6
tact, you don't have to be neat here . 1/s inch wide. Simmer in 1 quart of
A 10-ounce can of pineapple slices in water 6 minutes, drain, rinse in cold
syrup The sherbet. In a blender or proces- water, and set aside. Bring the sugar
1 cup sugar sor, puree the pulp and the uncooked and water to the simmer in the sauce-
1 very ripe fresh pineapple canned pineapple slices with the pan, and when the sugar has dis-
3 Tbs white rum boiled-down pineapple syrup, the solved completely, cover the pan
The grated peel and juice of 1 lemon rum, and the grated lemon peel and tightly and boil a moment or two,
lemon juice. Stir for several minutes until the last drops of syrup to fall
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: over ice and water to chill, then from the end of a metal spoon form a
A grapefruit knife or pineapple corer; a freeze according to your machine di- thread. Remove from heat, stir in the
6-cup saucepan with tight-fitting cover; rections. Cover and chill the pine- peel, let steep for an hour, and it is
an electric blender or a food processor; a apple shell. ready to use.
bowl of ice cubes and water, for rapid
chilling Serving. Let the sherbet soften 15 min-
utes or so in the refrigerator, then pack
into the chilled shell. Decorate with
the candied pineapple slices.
Fresh Strawberry Sherbet in a bowl with the lemon juice, wine N esselrode Ice Cream
with Fresh Strawberries vinegar, and sugar to taste. Cover
and chill. Nesselrode, an old-fashioned mixture
It's just a puree of strawberries with of pureed chestnuts, glaceed fruits,
sugar and a touch of lemon, but Serving. Spoon the sliced strawber- and liqueur, is named after Count
when you freeze it you have the mar- ries around each portion of sherbet; Carl von Nesselrode ( 1780-1862),
velous essence of pure strawberry. I the almond wafers on page 483 make one-time chancellor of the Russian
don't know a better formula for an attractive accompaniment. Empire. He was evidently something
strawberry sherbet. of a gastronome since a game con-
somme and a barley-rice soup also
For 1 quart, serving 6 to 8 VARIATIONS
bear his name. It is this rich and
wonderful holiday ice cream, how-
For the sherbet
Fresh Raspberry Sherbet ever, that ranks him among the im-
1 ½ quarts fine fresh ripe mortals. The formula here is adapted ..
strawberries from one given by our friend Mag-
Substitute fresh raspberries for
2 cups sugar gie Mah, whose father always made
strawberries, but strain the puree to
3 Tbs freshly squeezed lemon juice it for Christmas dinner.
eliminate seeds before freezing the
For decoration sherbet.
MANUFACTURING NOTES.
1 quart or so fine fresh ripe
strawberries
Custard base. This is a French custard
2 Tbs freshly squeezed lemon juice
ice cream, with a creme anglaise cus-
1 tsp red wine vinegar Frozen Strawberries and
tard base. Use the base for any num-
¼ cup or more sugar Raspberries ber of other flavorings, such as
SPECIAL EQUIPMEN T SUGGESTED:
chocolate, caramel, coffee, straw-
Puree the frozen berries in a food
A food processor; a bow l of ice cubes berry, and so forth.
processor, adding a little freshly
and water for quick chilling squeezed lemon juice. When thor-
Warning on glaceed fruits. Here's a
oughly defrosted, strain if you wish,
The sherbet mixture. Stem the straw- warning from sad experience-some
then freeze the puree. Two 10-ounce
berries, drop them into a large bowl run-of-the-mill glaceed fruits are ter-
packages will serve 4 to 5 people.
of cold water, swish gently, and drain rible, cheap, chemical-tasting junk.
immediately. Puree them in the pro- Buy the best and taste analytically to
cessor with the sugar and lemon be sure they are top quality, or you
juice, continuing until the sugar has will ruin your whole expensive batch
Instant Strawberry or of ice cream. If you cannot find the
dissolved completely-taste analyti- Raspberry Ice Cream
cally to be sure. Stir over the ice and right quality, substitute best-quality
From frozen berries glaceed cherries, or white raisins, or
water to chill thoroughly; freeze ac-
cording to your machine directions. pitted prunes.
Puree a 10-ounce package of frozen
strawberries or raspberries in a food
The strawberry garnish. An hour or so processor with 1 cup of chilled heavy
before serving, wash and stem the cream, and you have an instant soft
second group of strawberries and ice cream. Serve at once, decorating
drain thoroughly on a rack; quarter each portion, if you wish, with a few
or halve them lengthwise. Toss gently fresh berries or a big spoonful of
pureed berries. This will serve 4 or 5
people.
For about 3 ½ quarts of ice cream rather slowly with a wooden spoon Mocha-Chocolate Sour
over moderate heat, reaching all over Cream Sherbet
The custard base
the bottom and sides of the pan, until
4 "large" eggs
the cream gradually thickens and This rich chocolate ice cream, or
2 cups sugar
coats the spoon lightly-do not bring semi-sherbet, is less opulent than it
¼ tsp salt
near the simmer or you will curdle tastes, since .it contains only 2 cups of
3 cups whole milk, heated
the eggs, but you must heat it enough cream-and sour cream at that.
The N esselrode flavoring so that it thickens. Remove from heat
¾ cup canned chestnut puree or and at once whisk in the chestnut For about 2 quarts
almond paste puree or almond paste, to cool the
The mocha-chocolate
1 cup currants (small black raisins) custard.
8 ounces sweet baking chocolate
1 cup best-quality mixed glaceed
Nesselrode flavoring. Place the fruits 3 cups best-quality strong coffee
fruits, rinsed in boiling water (see
and 2 cups of the custard in the food 1/s tsp salt
also preceding notes)
processor and pulse several times to 1 cup sugar
12 stemmed maraschino cherries
and½ cup of their juice chop but not puree them. Strain, re- 2 cups chilled sour cream
¼ cup dark Jamaican rum turning the liquid to the saucepan. 1 Tbs pure vanilla extract
1 Tbs pure vanilla extract Toss the chopped fruits in a metal 2 Tbs dark Jamaican rum
bowl with the rum and vanilla, stir Optional decorations per serving:
2 cups half-and-half, chilled over the ice and water to chill, cover, swirls of lightly whipped cream,
1 ½ cups heavy cream, chilled and refrigerate. or a sprinkling of pralin (page
½ cup crumbs from amaretti
423), or a spoonful of iced coffee
cookies, or crumbed toasted Freezing. Stir all the custard and two liqueur; 2 sugar cookies
macaroons creams over ice to chill; turn it into
your machine and freeze it-you SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
may have to divide everything in half A 2 ½ -quart stainless saucepan; a spoon
A stainless 3-quart saucepan; a food
and freeze in two batches. When the and a whisk; a bowl of ice cubes and
processor; a bowl of ice cubes and water,
ice cream is set but still soft, fold in water for a fast chill
for fast chilling
the well-chilled Nesselrode flavoring
and the ground cookies. The mixture . Break up the chocolate
Custard base . Whisk the eggs, sugar,
and add to the saucepan along with
and salt in the saucepan for several
Curing. Pack into sealed containers the coffee, salt, and sugar; bring to
minutes, until the mixture is pale yel-
and freeze at 0°F for at least 4 hours. the simmer. Simmer slowly, stirring
low. By dribbles, stir in the hot
and whisking until the chocolate is
milk-but do not beat it because you
Serving. Let the ice cream soften 20 well melted and the liquid is per-
do not want to create foam. Stir
minutes in the refrigerator before fectly smooth and lightly thickened-
serving. Almond wafers or sugar 5 minutes or more . Stir for several
cookies would go nicely, or holiday minutes over ice to chill; stir in the
fruitcake. sour cream, vanilla , and rum; then
freeze according to your machi.ne
directions.
Serving. Let soften 15 minutes or so

in the refrigerator, then scoop into
bowls or goblets. Spoon around the
iced liqueur if you are ~sing it, deco-
rate with whipped cream or pralin,
and flank with cookies.
Some Sweet Creations from - = ~
the Supermarket
A little creative dash can do wonders

with store-bought dessert ingredients.
Mocha-Rum Quick Fix

Here's a winner when you're in a
hurry-super quick and everyone
loves it.
'i
Per serving
A large scoop of vanilla, chocolate,

or coffee ice cream
1 Tbs dark rum or bourbon whiskey
A big pinch each of cocoa powder
and powdered instant coffee
(pulverize instant coffee granules
in the blender)
1/3
The Multi-Layered Ice- cup cold water
Drop the scoop of ice cream into a ¼ cup dark rum or orange liqueur
Cream Cake
wide-mouthed stemmed glass and
pour around it the rum or bourbon, 3 cake layers, 9 inches in diameter
When you need a fancy-looking for- and % inch thick ( yellow cake,
sprinkle on the cocoa and coffee, and
mal dessert, a layered ice-cream cake spongecake, genoise)
serve at once.
is easy to make and impressive to 3 quarts ice cream, such as 1 quart
serve. The handsome example here is each of coffee, chocolate, and
made from good supermarket ice vanilla
creams, and bought yellow cake-
either one or two round cakes, or a Optional decorative suggestions
big sheet from the bakery depart- 1 cup chilled heavy cream, whipped,
ment, cut to the size of a 9-inch and sweetened with confectioners
spring-form pan. sugar (page 440)
½ cup chopped walnuts, or
For a 9- by 3-inch spring-form pan, crumbled amaretti cookies, or
serving 12 to 16 pralin (page 423)
2 cups strawberry sauce (page 419)
A liqueur syrup for the cake layers
or chocolate sauce (page 422),
1/3 cup sugar optional
113 cup hot water in a 2-cup measure Maraschino cherries, optional

A 9- by 3-inch round spring-form SPECIAL NOTE
mold, bottom and sides lined with wax
paper Strawberry or Raspberry
A food processor or electric blender; a
Sauce
The liqueur syrup. Stir the sugar into sieve if needed
the hot water; when dissolved, stir in The sauce of many uses-to accom-
the cold water and the rum or orange pany ice creams, puddings, custards, Puree the berries, half the sugar
liqueur. called for, and 3 tablespoons of
and souffies, to mention a few. Fresh
lemon juice in the machine, continu-
berries are the most desirable, of
Imbibing the cake layers. Arrange the ing until the sugar is completely dis-
course, but the packaged frozen ones
cake layers on wax-paper-lined cookie solved-2 to 3 minutes. Taste
do nicely out of season.
sheets. Drizzle the syrup over the carefully to be sure there are no tiny
layers and freeze an hour or so. undissolved granules. Puree in more
For about 2 cups
Meanwhile, let the ice cream soften sugar by spoonful if needed and more
1 quart of fresh strawberries or lemon juice by droplets . Sieve if nec-
to spreadable consistency in the re-
raspberries (or 2 packages of essary, to remove seeds and seed
frigerator-20 minutes or so.
frozen berries, partially defrosted) residue .
Sugar to taste, "instant" quick
dissolving recommended-about *Ahead-of-time note: Refrigerate in a
1 cup for fresh berries, 1 Tbs or covered bowl, where the sauce will
so for frozen berries keep for a day or two.
3 to 4 Tbs freshly squeezed lemon
juice
and so forth, ending with ice cream. *Ahead-of-time note: Cover and store
Cover with plastic wrap and freeze at in the freezer; let soften 20 minutes
0°F for at least 6 hours. in the refrigerator before serving.
Decoration. Release the spring-form Serving. Surround each portion, if

and peel the wax paper off the sides you wish, with strawberry or choco-
of the cake. Transfer the frozen cake late sauce, and top with a cherry.
from the pan's bottom disk to a
chilled serving platter. Decorate the
Spreading chocolate ice cream over first cake layer top with swirls of whipped cream and
in spring-form pan
chopped nuts, crumbled cookies, or
pralin.
To assemble. Fit a cake layer into the
pan, spread on a layer of ice cream,
cover with another cake layer, then
another layer of softened ice cream,
Preparing the pan. Remove the ice Caramel Sauce

cream from the freezer and let it
soften 15 to 20 minutes. Meanwhile, · Easy to make, and handy to have on
line the length and width of the loaf hand, this caramel sauce is the best I
pan with double thicknesses of plastic know.
wrap, leaving 2 ½-inch overhangs
for easy unmolding. To line the pan For about 1 ½ cups
with the ladyfingers, paint a dab of
Caramel (see Special Note on next
the confectioners sugar paste on the
page)
outside bottom of a ladyfinger and
1 cup heavy cream
anchor it upright, its curved side
A pinch of salt
against a side of the pan. Continue,
2 tsp pure vanilla extract
making an even border all around.
When the caramel has cooled but is

still liquid, blend in the cream,
which will partially congeal the cara-
mel. Simmer, stirring, for several
minutes over moderate heat while the
caramel dissolves. Remove from
Vanilla Ice-Cream Loaf heat; stir in the salt and the vanilla.
Serve warm or cool.
Another good idea for a dramatic
presentation-it's a loaf pan lined *Ahead-of-time note: Refrigerated in a
with ladyfingers, filled with ice Spooning ice cream into ladyfinger-lined pan
covered jar, the sauce will keep for
cream, then frozen solid, and finally weeks. To serve warm or to liquefy,
unmolded on a sea of raspberry or heat the jar in a pan of simmering
Filling the pan. Beat the ice cream water.
strawberry sauce. But bought pack-
briefly with the electric mixer to re-
aged ladyfingers are so dismally and
move any air. Spoon it rapidly into
disgracefully lifelessly limp! Your
the pan, pressing it gently against the
own ( page 487) will be crisp, light,
ladyfingers. (You will trim off pro-
and lovely.
truding ladyfinger ends later, when
the ice cream has firmed.) Cover and
For a 6-cup loaf pan, serving 8
freeze at least 6 hours.
1 ½ quarts best-quality vanilla ice
cream *Ahead-of-time note: U nmold the ice
About 2 dozen ladyfingers cream loaf onto a chilled platter sev-
¼ cup confectioners sugar, eral hours before serving; cover and
moistened to a paste in a small return to the freezer.
bowl with droplets of water
Raspberry or strawberry sauce (see Serving. Remove the loaf from the
Special Note, page 419) freezer to the refrigerator 20 minutes
before serving. Spoon a little of the
sauce around the ice cream loaf, and
A 6-cup loaf pan; an electric mixer at the table cut the loaf into crosswise
slices. For each serving, spoon a pool
of sauce slightly to one side of a
chilled plate, and lay a slice of ice
cream in the center.
SPECIAL NOTE Simple syrups are no problem, but, To Make Caramel

when you get into serious boiling for
Sugar Syrups the soft-ball and caramel stages, you 1 cup sugar
want to be sure that sugar crystals do 1/3 cup water
Boiling sugar and making sugar syr- not form on the sides of the pan-if
ups and caramel are essential to creat- they do, you are in for trouble be- SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
ing desserts and cakes. Just hearing cause the whole syrup can crystallize. A heavy 6-cup saucepan with tight-
the words "caramel" and "sugar Prevention is simple. fitting cover; a large pan of cold water
syrup at the soft-ball stage" makes at your side
some novice cooks quiver. But fear First. Provide yourself with a moder-
not-you will never have trouble ately heavy pan that has a tight-fitting Preliminaries to boiling. Blend the
when you follow the few basic direc- cover, so that the steam condensing sugar and water in the saucepan and
tions here . on its lid will wash down the sides of bring to the simmer. Remove from
the pan and prevent sugar crystals heat , and swirl the pan by its handle
from forming. to be sure that the sugar has dissolved
completely and that the liquid is per-
To make a sugar syrup Second. Be sure, at the outset, that the fectly clear.
sugar has completely dissolved and
Sugar syrups are sugar and water- the syrup is perfectly, limpidly clear Caramelizing the syrup. Cover the pan
½ cup of water per cup of sugar- before you start in on your serious tightly and boil the syrup for several
boiled to various stages of sugar con- boiling. minutes over moderately high heat-
centration, beginning with the simple keep peeking, after a minute or so,
syrup, where the sugar and water are Third. Once you start boiling, never and boil until the bubbles are thick.
heated just until the sugar is dis- stir the syrup; however, you may Uncover the pan and continue boil-
solved. The syrup is then usually fla- swish it, holding the pan by its ing, swirling the pan slowly by its
vored with vanilla or liqueur and handle. handle. In a number of seconds the
used to imbibe the layers of a cake, syrup will begin to color. Continue
or to poach fruit. Boiled a little To clean pan and utensils, fill the pan boiling and swirling a few seconds
longer, the last drops to fall from the with water, add any utensils, and more , until it is a light caramel
tip of a spoon into a cup of cold water simmer a few minutes to melt the brown, then remove from heat and
will form threads. This is the sugar caramel. continue swirling-it will darken
syrup that is beaten into egg yolks for more. Set the bottom of the pan in
the butter cream on page 46 8, or the cold water to cool it and stop the
beaten into the egg whites for the cooking.
Italian meringue on page 462. As the
water continues to evaporate you go
through the hard-ball and the hard-
crack stages, then finally the syrup
begins to turn into caramel, and
eventually it burns black.
Syrup forming soft ball in fingers

Hot Fudge Sauce-Warm The peanuts go in. At once remove

Chocolate Sauce from heat and blend in the peanuts;
turn them vigorously with a metal
This is that fine type of chocolate spoon for a few seconds, and as soon
sauce that strings up off the ice cream as the nuts are coated with caramel
as you lift it in your spoon. It's the stir in the soda. The mixture will im-
boiled corn syrup that does the trick. mediately foam and whiten.
For about 2 ½ cups Out onto the work surface. At once,

while still hot, turn it out onto your
213 cup white corn syrup I . Pouring hot caramel and nuts onto oiled surface
oiled surface, as illustrated, step 1.
213 cup water Now spread the hot mixture with a
½ cup unsweetened cocoa powder Peanut Brittle spoon. Continue spreading and thin-
1½ cups sugar ning-lifting under the mass with ·,
2 ounces (2 squares) unsweetened If you can make caramel, you can the spatula, pulling it out with the
baking chocolate, chopped make your own peanut brittle-it's as bowl of a spoon. When cool enough,
6 Tbs unsalted butter easy as that, but you'd better keep it stretch out the caramel base with
½ cup heavy cream hidden since one bite is never your fingers to a thickness of about
A big pinch of salt enough. 1/s inch. When cold and brittle,
2 tsp pure vanilla extract break it into serving pieces, step 2.
For a goodly quantity, a sheet almost the
The sauce. Boil the corn syrup in a size of 2 jelly-roll pans *Ahead-of-time note: Wrap in a plastic
small saucepan for a minute or two, bag and store in an airtight container.
until it forms heavy strands as you 4½ cups sugar
drop it off a spoon. Remove from 1 ½ cups water
heat and stir in the water. Sieve to- 3 cups regular-style roasted and
gether the cocoa and sugar, then salted and skinned peanuts
whisk them in, Simmer, stirring, for ½ tsp baking soda
several seconds, until you are sure
the sugar has dissolved completely-
2 large metal kitchen spoons; a flexible-
very importa~t since undissolved
blade metal spatula; a very large oiled
sugar will cause the sauce to crystal-
metal tray, or 2 jelly-roll pans, or a
lize later. Add the baking chocolate
large oiled marble slab; a heavy 2-quart
and simmer, stirring, until melted;
saucepan with tight-fitting cover
blend in the butter and heavy cream.
Bring to the full boil for 15 seconds.
Preliminaries. Have all the listed in-
Remove from heat, and blend in the
salt and vanilla. Serve warm. gredients and equipment right by
your side and at the ready since this
*Ahead-of-time note: Refrigerate in a goes very fast once the caramel is
covered jar, and place the jar in a pan made.
of simmering water to reheat.
The caramel. Following the detailed 2. Breaking cooled brittle into serving pieces
directions in the boxed caramel rec-
ipe, bring the sugar and water to the
simmer, swirl the pan to dissolve the
sugar completely, then boil the syrup
to the light caramel stage.
I .
VARIATION
Hazelnut or Almond Brittle-

Pralin
Substitute toasted hazelnuts or

blanched toasted almonds for the pea-
nuts in the preceding recipe, omit-
ting the soda but adding ½ teaspoon
salt to the sugar when making the
I. Chopped brittle being folded into cream 2 . Assembling the Tortoni
caramel. See the Special Note on this
page for toasting the nuts.
Biscuits Tortoni The mixture. Make the pralin as de-
scribed in the variation to the recipe
SPECIAL NOTE A splendid use for almond pralin. for Peanut Brittle; when cold and
When you have an abundance of al- brittle, break it up and pulverize
mond pralin in your freezer, that's rather coarsely. Whip the cream into
Toasted Hazelnuts
when to think about biscuits Tor- soft peaks over the ice. Sift and beat
toni-charming frozen frilly desserts in the confectioners sugar, then the
Toasting gives hazelnuts much added
that you can have on hand or whip up rum and vanilla; fold in two thirds of
flavor. Taste before toasting, to make
in a flash. Tortoni was an Italian ice the pralin as illustrated (step 1) -
sure they are fresh and fine.
cream genius whose concoctions be- save the rest for topping. In a clean
Spread them in a jelly-roll pan, and came all the rage in the Paris of the dry bowl, whip the egg white into
roast for 20 minutes or so in a 350°F early 1800's, when the French went stiff peaks; fold it into the mixture.
oven, tossing them several times. As mad over frozen desserts of all kinds.
Filling the cups. Place the frilled pa- ·
they toast, their irresistible new
For 8 servings per cups in the muffin tins. Spoon in
aroma slowly emerges, and they are
the filling, dust the tops with the re-
done when lightly browned. Then For the almond pralin maining pralin, step 2. To leave a
rub by handfuls in a rough towel or
½ cup granulated sugar ½ -inch space between the Tortoni
double thicknesses of paper toweling
3 Tbs water surfaces and their plastic cover to
to remove loose skin-you won't get
213 cup toasted blanched almonds come, insert twistems or toothpicks
it all off, which is normal.
1 cup heavy cream between the paper frills and the muf-
1/3 cup confectioners sugar fin cups. Cover with plastic wrap and
1 Tbs dark rum slip the tins into a large plastic bag.
1 tsp pure vanilla extract Freeze at least 2 hours-or for sev-
Toasted Almonds
1 egg white eral weeks.
Almonds also take on their optimum
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: Serving. Arrange the Tortoni on des-
flavor when toasted . Buy blanched
A blender or food processor for pulveriz- sert plates . You may wish to serve
(skinless) almonds, spread them in a
ing the pralin; a bowl of ice cubes and them with sugar or almond cookies.
jelly-roll pan, and roast to a toasty
light brown in a 350°F oven, tossing water for whipping the cream; a clean
several times. bowl and beater for the egg white;
frilled paper cups, 1/2-cup capacity; a
*Ahead-of-time notes for toasted nuts: muffin tin to hold them; twistems or
When thoroughly cool, pack into a toothpicks to protect them
screw-topped jar and freeze.
APPLE DESSERTS Preparing the apples. Wash and quar-

ter the apples, core out the seeds, and SPE CIAL N OTE
I
halve the quarters but do not peel
t's hard to beat an apple- them-the peel gives flavor and body Apple Information
something as one of America's fa- to the sauce.
vorite desserts. Although we don't Choose the right apple: When
have Mom's Apple Pie here, we do Preliminary cooking. Place the apples you are making just a plain
have, among other creations, two in the saucepan along with the zest of applesauce to use up apples, it makes
sp1endid apple tarts, an apple and al- the lemon ( the yellow part of the peel little difference what apples you
mond pizza, an apple crisp, and a removed with a vegetable peeler), the choose. But if you want a thick, full-
caramelized apple mountain. But in juice of the lemon, and the cinna- bodied sauce, or apple slices that hold
the beginning, there was applesauce. mon. Cover the pan and set over their shape after cooking, pick one of
moderately low heat; the apples will these varieties:
slowly soften and render their juices.
Stir and mash them frequently until
II\ MASTER RECIPE they are tender throughout-about
3 0 minutes in all. The old faithfuls: Golden
Applesauce Delicious and Granny Smiths are
Finishing the applesauce. Puree always reliable and always available.
This is a fine, full-bodied applesauce through the vegetable mill, return
that stands proudly on its own but the applesauce to the pan, and stir in
can be used in a number of other the sugar. Boil slowly, stirring and
preparations, including those that adding more sugar to taste, until the Other v ariet i es, depending upon
follow. puree is thick enough to hold its where you live: Baldwin, Northern
shape quite solidly in a spoon. Stir in Spy, Newtown Pippin , Rhode Island
For about 4 cups the vanilla. Greening, Rome Beauty, York
Imperial.
3½ to 4 pounds apples (6 to 8
apples)-Granny Smith, or others *Ahead-of-time note: When cold,
from the following list cover and put in the refrigerator,
1 medium lemon where the applesauce will keep per-
fectly several days. Apple Amounts
½ tsp cinnamon
(approximations)
½ cup sugar, plus more if needed
½ tsp pure vanilla extract
1 medium apple, 2½ by 2 ½
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: Recipes Featuring inches = 5 ½ ounces
A heavy-bottomed saucepan with cover; Applesauce = 8
1 large apple , 3 by 3 inches
a vegetable mill with medium screen ounces
Two good uses for applesauce are 1 pound apples peeled, cored , and
Apple Snow and Apple Charlotte. sliced = 2 2/J cups
See also the Apple and Almond Pizza 3 pounds sliced apples = 8 cups
farther on. raw = 3 ½ cups sauce
Isabella Beeton's Apple

Snow
Mrs. Beeton calls this "a pretty sup- _

per dish" and indeed it is, especially
when topped with your own caramel
sauce . In addition, it could hardly be
easier to make-applesauce beaten
into egg whites. I never thought such
a thing would work, but, rather than
collapsing the egg whites as I would
have suspected, it stiffens them.
Apple snow was not such a fast dish,
of course, when Isabella's great Book
of Household Management appeared in
1861 and all the beating was done by
hand. But those were the days of the
downstairs scullery maid, who beat
her little heart out for the folks
upstairs .
4 "large" egg whites ( ½ to almost %

cup), at room temperature
½ tsp cream of tartar
3 cups cold, thick, delicious
applesauce (the preceding recipe)
½ to % cup homemade caramel
sauce (page 420)

A table-model electric mixer with very
clean dry bowl and beater; wide-
mouthed goblets; a wide-mouthed pre-
serving funnel-to fill them neatly
*Ahead-of-time note: Apple snow will

The apple snow. Start beating the egg
hold several hours in the refrigera-
whites at slow speed for a minute or
tor; fill the goblets just before
so, until they foam throughout; beat
servrng.
in the cream of tartar and gradually
increase speed to fast, until the egg
Serving. Spoon servings through the
whites form stiff shining peaks. Re-
preserving funnel into each goblet,
duce speed to moderate and add the
and dribble a generous spoonful of
applesauce by ½ cupfuls. Continue
caramel sauce over each.
beating at high speed for a minute or
so, until the mixture is stiff enough
to hold its shape softly in a spoon.
Apple Charlotte
Simmer a fine thick applesauce with a

dollop of butter, flavor it nicely with
rum and apricot, and pack it into a
mold lined with strips of butter-
dipped bread. Bake it until the wall
of bread strips is crisply brown, un-
mold it, and you have apple char-
lotte, one of the greatest of the apple
desserts.
MANUFACTURING NOTE.ft is essen-

tial here to have the right apple, as dis-
cussed in the notes preceding the master
recipe. The wrong apple will give you
the partially collapsed charlotte pictured
farther along. However, you can bolster
up a weak sauce by folding in toasted
and buttered bread crumbs .
For a 6-cup baking dish, serving 6 to 8
The applesauce
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: Lining the baking dish.
8 pounds of apples-Granny Smiths A heavy-bottomed 3- to 4-quart sauce-
or Golden Delicious pan with cover; a vegetable mill; a 6-
The zests and juice of 2 lemons cup cylindrical baking dish, such as the
½ cup apricot jam charlotte mold pictured here; a pizza
1 cup sugar pan to catch juices in the oven
1 Tbs pure vanilla extract
¼ cup dark Jamaican rum The applesauce. Start the applesauce as
3 Tbs butter, optional but nice described in the master recipe, and
16 to 18 slices of firm homemade when the apples are thoroughly ten-
type sandwich bread, crusts off der and mashed, stir in the apricot
8 ounces (2 sticks) melted butter, jam, then puree the sauce. Return it
I . Lining baking dish with butter-dipped bread
clear yellow liquid poured off to the saucepan, add the sugar, the
strips
from milky residue vanilla, rum, and optional butter.
½ cup apricot glaze (see directions Raise heat and boil, stirring almost The bottom. Arrange 4 pieces of
at end of recipe) continuously, until the applesauce has the crustless bread in a square, center
Optional decoration: A sprig of become very thick, almost stiff, and the cylindrical baking dish on top,
greenery, or a candied cherry holds its shape quite solidly in a and cut around the bottom of the dish
Optional accompaniment: 2 cups spoon-15 minutes or more, and see to make 4 pie-shaped pieces to fit in-
custard sauce ( creme anglaise, the manufacturing note at the begin- side the dish, as shown in the photo-
page 446), sour cream, sweetened ning of this recipe. Correct season- graph. Cut a 1½-inch circle out of a
whipped cream (page 440), or ing: this should be an absolutely bread scrap. Saute the 4 pieces and
vanilla ice cream delicious concoction-but definitely the circle in a spoonful or two of the
thick! melted butter, to brown very lightly.
Fit the pie-shaped pieces in the bot-
tom of the dish. Reserve the circle.
The sides. Cut the rest of the bread upside down over the charlotte. Now
into strips 1¼ inches wide, dip in lift the dish up slowly an inch or two SPECIAL NOTE
the melted butter, and fit them, and wait a bit; lift up more, and if
slightly overlapping, around the in- there is the slightest suggestion of Apricot Glaze
side of the dish, as illustrated, step 1. bulging sides, slip the dish back For glazing tarts, cakes, and fruit
toppings (see also Red Currant Glaze,
down and wait 10 minutes more. Try page 437)
again; the charlotte may bulge, but it
should hold if your sauce was firm Apricot glaze is what makes tarts
enough. shimmer and charlottes glitter-
nothing but sieved apricot jam boiled
Final decoration. Paint the glaze over down to the thread stage with a little
the top and sides of the charlotte, sugar. Make a double or triple
center the reserved toast circle on top amount while you are at it, since it
and glaze it also. Decorate, if you keeps for months.
wish, with a sprig of greenery and a
red berry or cherry. For 1 cup
2. Spooning in the thick applesauce
1 cup apricot jam
3 Tbs sugar
In goes the applesauce. Spoon a 1-inch
3 Tbs dark rum, optional
layer of applesauce into the dish, step
2, and cover with bits of butter-
Push the jam through a sieve to re-
dipped bread. Continue in layers , let-
move pulp and skin. Blend it in a
ting the filling hump up ¾ inch in
small saucepan with the sugar and
the center for the final layer. Cut off
optional rum, then bring it to the
any protruding bread-strip ends and
boil, stirring. Boil several minutes
press them, along with several but- until the last drops to fall from the
tery bread strips, on top of the sauce.
tip of a spoon are thick and sticky-
Pour any remaining b~tter, if you 2280F. Use while still warm, or re-
wish, over the tops of the bread strips
warm it; apply it with a pastry brush,
lining the dish. with a table knife, or with the back
of a spoon.
Baking-30 to 40 minutes at 425°F.
Set in the middle level of the pre- Storing. Store in a screw-top jar; it
heated oven, and place the pizza pan
does not need refrigeration.
on a rack below, to catch any buttery 3. Partial collapse after the winning serving
juices. The charlotte is done when
you slip a knife between the bread
Serving. Serve the charlotte warm or
strips and the dish, and see that the
at room temperature. Cut into
bread has browned nicely.
wedges, step 3, and pass the sauce,
cream, or ice cream separately. It is
Unmolding. Set a serving platter on
quite possible to have a partial char-
top of the charlotte and reverse the
lotte collapse after the first serving-
two; leave the baking dish in place
particularly if it is still warm. But if
for 3 0 minutes. Reverse again, and
it held up for its initial presentation,
run a thin knife between the browned
you have won!
bread strips and the sides of the dish.
Reverse a final time, the baking dish
APPLES IN SLICES
_1IL MASTER RECIPE
Oven-Baked Apple Slices
When you slice your apples and bake

them in a dish, basting them all the
while with butter, cinnamon, and
their own juices, you can well serve
them just as they are, or consider
them a base for other concoctions as
suggested farther on.
3 pounds (6 to 8) apples, the kind

that will hold their shape when
cooked in slices-Goldens are
particularly recommended, but
see other suggestions from the list
on page 424 Preparing the apples. Quarter, core, to check, and baste with more season-
¼ cup sugar blended with ¼ tsp and peel the apples; cut the quarters ings if necessary. (If the juices have
cinnamon into lengthwise thirds to make slices not reduced to a thick syrup, remove
1 Tbs lemon juice ½ inch wide .at the outside edge. Toss them with the bulb baster and boil
4 Tbs unsalted butter, melted in a bowl with the sugar mixture, down in a small saucepan, then pour
then with the lemon juice, and finally over the apples.)
with the melted butter. Let sit 3 or 4
A 4-quart mixing bowl; a large rubber
minutes to render juices and absorb *Ahead-of-time note: May be baked a
spatula; a 6-quart baking dish such as
flavor. Taste, and fold in a little more day or two in advance; cover and
one about 12 by 7 by 2 inches; a bulb
sugar, if needed. refrigerate.
baster
Baking-30 to 40 minutes at 375°F. Serving. Serve warm or cold with
Turn the apples into the baking dish heavy cream, sour cream, ice cream,
and bake in the middle level of the or custard sauce. Or try one of the
preheated oven, sucking up accumu- following suggestions.
lated cooking juices with the bulb
baster and distributing them over the
apples every 8 to I O minutes. The
apples are done when the slices are
thoroughly tender but hold their
shape; they should color lightly, and
should be perfectly delicious-taste
Apple Slices Baked with Apple Crisp Assembling. Spread half the streusel in
Bourbon Cream the bottom of the buttered baking
Apple crisp is an old-fashioned dish, turn in the sliced apples and
A simple topping makes for a dress- brown-betty type of dessert-sliced their accumulated juices, and cover
ier dessert. apples baked on a bed and under a with the remaining streusel.
blanket of streusel-brown sugar,
The preceding Oven-Baked Apple butter, flour, and, in this case, oat- Baking-about 1 hour at 350°F.
Slices meal flakes. The apples then have a Bake, covered, in the middle level of
1 egg yolk certain crispness over and under, and the preheated oven until the apples
¼ cup sugar a sumptuously soft inner core. are slowly bubbling-about 20 min-
3 Tbs bourbon whiskey utes. Uncover and continue baking,
½ cup heavy cream For 6 servings until a knife point goes into them
very easily. The streusel topping will
Ingredients for Oven-Baked Apple
Preparing the apples. Preheat the oven have browned lightly.
Slices, minus the butter
to 400°F. If the apples have been
cooked in advance, heat them in the The streusel crisp Serving. Serve warm or cold just as it
oven until bubbling-about 10 min- ½ cup flour is, or with ice cream, sour cream,
utes. For the bourbon cream, whisk ¾ cup brown sugar, sieved to whipped cream, or custard sauce.
the egg yolk in a smallish bowl, remove lumps
gradually adding the sugar. Continue 1/s tsp salt
beating for several minutes until 6 Tbs chilled unsalted butter, cut VA RIATION
lightly thickened, then beat in the into ½-inch pieces
bourbon, and finally the cream. 1 cup rolled oats (instant oatmeal- Cranberry Crisp
Spread the topping over the apples, flake cereal)
shaking the baking dish so that the Cranberries in a gently crunchy
Optional accompaniment: vanilla ice
cream will sink down into the apples. cloak-serve this with the Thanks-
cream, sour cream, whipped
giving turkey, or accompany it with
cream, or creme anglaise ( custard
Baking. Bake about 5 minutes in the cream or ice cream for a pleasantly
sauce, page 446)
upper middle level of the preheated tart dessert . It is so rich and concen-
oven, just until the cream has set and trated, however, that this recipe can
is beginning to brown in places. well make a dozen portions.
A food processor; a buttered 2 ½ -quart
Serve warm or cold.
baking dish such as a round one 9¼ by
2¼ inches, w ith cover For an 8-inch square pan, making 12
rectangular pieces
The apples. As directed in the master The cranberries
recipe, quarter, core, peel, and slice
1 package (3½ to 4 cups) fresh
the apples; toss in a large mixing
cranberries
bowl with the lemon and the sugar-
1 orange
cinnamon mixture.
1 cup sugar
½ cup apple cider or apple juice
The streusel crisp. Process the flour,
½ tsp cinnamon
sugar, salt, and butter in the machine
½ cup heavy cream
with several on-off pulses, only until
the mixture looks like coarse meal. The preceding streusel for the Apple
Add the oat flakes and pulse in with 2 Crisp
or 3 flicks, to break them up roughly. Suggested dessert accompaniment:
sweetened whipped cream (page
440), or vanilla ice cream
Cranberry Crisp (continued)

A food processor; a buttered 8 -inch
square cake pan, no-stick recommended,
otherwise line the pan with buttered
wax paper
The cranberries. Pick over and wash

the cranberries; place in a 2-quart
saucepan. With a vegetable peeler re-
move the zest (orange part of skin
only) of the orange, and pulverize in
the processor with ½ cup of the
sugar. Add this to the cranberries
along with the rest of the sugar, the
strained juice of the orange, the cider
or apple juice, and the cinnamon.
Cover the pan and bring to the boil
for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the cran-
berries have burst. Add the cream
and boil down several minutes to Caramel Apple Mountain
thicken lightly. Set aside.
Caramel Apple Mountain SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:

*Ahead-of-time note: May be made
A 6-cup pan with tight-fitting cover; a
several days in advance.
This recipe takes oven-baked apples round-bottomed 8-cup stainless bowl for
to the summit-the baked slices are the apples; a casserole with rack to hold
Assembling. Butter the cake pan and
rebaked in a caramelized bowl, and the bowl in the oven
turn half of the streusel crisp mixture
into it, pressing it against the bottom unmolded only to be bathed in a
cloak of caramel, and surrounded by The apple slices. Bake the apple slices
of the pan. Scrape in the cranberries,
a gentle cloud of whipped cream. as directed, making sure they are
and spread the remaining crisp over
perfectly tender and deliciously fla-
them, pressing them in lightly.
For an 8-cup mold, serving 1 0 to 12 vored. Let cool 10 minutes before as-
sembling; meanwhile prepare the
Baking-SO to 60 minutes at 350°F. The Oven-Baked Apple Slices (page caramel.
Bake in the middle level of the pre- 428)
heated oven until the flan is slowly
The caramel The caramel-for the mold and the
bubbling in several places, and is be-
sauce. Following the recipe for cara-
ginning to brown lightly on top. 1 ½ cups sugar
½ cup water
mel on page 421, bring the sugar
Cool 20 minutes.
¾ cup heavy cream
and water to the boil, and when the
½ tsp vanilla
sugar has dissolved completely cover
Serving. Run a knife around the edge
the pan and boil to the light caramel
of the pan, and unmold onto a pastry 4 "large" eggs plus 1 egg white stage. Pour a third into the 8-cup
sheet; immediately set a serving plate ¼ cup bourbon whiskey bowl; to coat the bottom and sides
over it and reverse the two, ending 2 cups sweetened whipped cream '
protect your hands with potholders
with the flan top side up. Serve (page 440) and turn the bowl in all directions for
warm, or cold, and, if it is a dessert
accompany with the cream or vanill;
ice cream.
JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK DESSERTS 43 1
several minutes until the caramel

ceases to run. Use the remaining car-
amel for the sauce, simmering it with
the cream and adding the vanilla at
the end, as described in the Caramel
Sauce recipe on page 420.
Assembling. Whisk the eggs and egg

white with the bourbon in a roomy
mixing bowl. By large spoonfuls,
gently fold the warm apples into the
egg mixture. Turn the apples into the
caramelized bowl.

Set the bowl on the rack in the casse-
role and pour in enough boiling
water into the casserole to come half-
way up the bowl. Place in the lower
middle level of the preheated oven.
Regulate heat so the water in the cas-
serole is barely bubbling, not boil-
ing. (Be sure there is always water in
the casserole!) The dessert is done in
about 30 minutes-when a skewer
plunged down through the center
comes out almost clean. Remove the
bowl from the casserole, and let cool
3 0 minutes. U nmold onto a serving
platter. Serve warm or cold.
Serving. Since it slides off rapidly,

spoon the caramel sauce over the
apples just before bringing the des-
sert to the table. Pass the whipped
cream separately.
DESSERT TARTS Apple and Almond Pizza
A VARIATION ELSEWHERE: An informal apple tart, this starts

with your best pastry dough, which
Apple Crepes Three Apple Tarts is spread with thick fine applesauce,
topped with oven-baked apple slices,
Another use for Oven-Baked Apple The open-faced apple tart is always a strewn with chopped almonds, then
Slices-the Flaming Apple Crepes visual treat, and here are three very slid into the oven to bake like the
on page 408. different versions, one informal, one real-McCoy pizza:
classic, and the third, a famous tour
de force. (continued)
Apple and Almond Pizza (continued) paddle, and slide it onto a hot baking
stone, as for the preceding Apple and
For 6 servings Atmond Pizza.
About 1 pound chilled butter pastry
dough, such as the recipe on page For a 14- by 4½-inch tart, serving 4
381 to 6
¼ cup strained apricot jam About 1 pound chilled butter pastry
1¼ to 1½ cups chilled, thick, dough, such as the recipe on page
delicious applesauce (page 424) 381
30 to 40 Oven-Baked Apple Slices Assembling the pizza 2 to 4 apples, depending on the
(page 428) arrangement you have chosen-
1 Tbs dark rum Goldens or Granny Smiths, or
Assembling the pizza. Paint the interior
1/3 cup blanched almonds coarsely others from the list on page 424
of the disk with a thin layer of the
ground with 3 Tbs sugar (page ¼ cup sugar
474) jam. Spread the applesauce over the
1 cup apricot glaze (page 427)
3 to 4 Tbs melted butter
jam and strew the apple slices infor-
mally but attractively on top as illus- SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: trated. Sprinkle the rum over the A buttered baking sheet; a table fork; a
A pizza baking stone or tiles, and a pizza apples, spread on the almond-sugar, melon baller; a pastry brush
paddle ( described for French bread on and drizzle melted butter over all.
page 3 7)-you can bake on a pizza pan The free-form tart shell. Roll the
but the crust will never be as crisp; but- Baking-20 to 25 minutes at 425°F. chilled dough into a rectangle 1/s inch
tered heavy-duty foil Slide the pizza, on its foil, onto the thick and trim it to 15 by 5 ½ inches.
hot stone or tiles. Bake 15 minutes,
Preliminaries. Preheat the oven to reduce the thermostat to 400°F, and
425°F, set the rack in the lower bake 5 to 10 minutes more, until the
middle level, and place the pizza pastry has crisped and browned
stone or tiles upon it. lightly on the bottom. Slide onto a
serving board. To serve, cut into
The dough. Roll the chilled dough wedges, like a pizza.
into a disk 13 inches in diameter and
1/s inch thick; unroll onto the but-
tered foil and slide it onto the pizza
paddle. Working rapidly, paint a ½- A Free-Form
inch border of cold water around the Fresh Apple Tart
edge of the dough and fold it over to
make a rim, pressing it in place with The basically blissful simple elemen-
your fingers. Prick the interior of the tal open-faced apple tart has sliced
pastry disk all over going down to apples on a buttery brown crust with
the pastry sheet at ½-inch intervals a little sugar to sweeten them up and
with the tines of a fork . a glaze of apricot to make them glit-
ter. Bake it on a free-form rectangu-
lar shell for easy serving. Chicken Piperade (page 138) with apple tart-the
perfect dessert
MANUFACTURING NOTE. Rather than
forming and baking the tart on a pastry
Roll it up on your pin, and unroll it
sheet, you will always get a crisper onto the lightly buttered baking sur-
crust when you form it on foil on a pizza
face. Working rapidly so the dough

Bake the tart in the upper middle
level of the preheated oven. It is done
when the pastry is lightly browned on
the bottom; the apples will color
slightly and should be perfectly
tender.
I. Turning up edges of dough rectangle 3. Coring apples with a melon baller
Preparing the apples. Halve and peel

the apples. Neatly dig out the core
with the melon baller, and the stem
with a small knife, step 3. Slice the
apple halves crosswise or lengthwise,
depending on the effect you wish-
they are pictured both ways in the S. Painting the baked tart with apricot glaze
following photographs.
Glazing. Slide the tart onto a rack,
2. Sealing edges with tines of fork and paint with a light coating of
warm apricot glaze, step 5.
won't soften, lightly paint a I-inch Serving. Transfer the tart to a board,
strip of cold water on the border of and serve warm or cold, cutting it
the rectangle all around. Cut a ½- into crosswise portions.
inch square out of each corner, then
fold ½ inch of the dough down *Ahead-of-time and storage notes: The
against the sides and ends, making an tart may be made several hours
edging for the shell as illustrated, ahead, and although it is at its best
step 1. Seal the turned-down edges of 4. Transferring apple slices to sugared pastry
when fresh, any leftovers may be
surface
dough to the bottom of the pastry wrapped and refrigerated or frozen.
with the tines of a table fork held flat, Reheat the tart in the oven or micro-
pressing firmly. Then, holding the Placing the apples on the shell. wave, if you wish, and give an addi-
fork upright, its back to the edges, Sprinkle 2 tablespoons of sugar in the tional coat of glaze before serving.
press it also around the outside of the tart shell. Arrange the apple slices
tart, step 2. Prick the inside surface over the sugar. In the illustration,
of the dough all over at ½-inch in- step 4, the apples have been cut
tervals with the fork, going down crosswise and are slid in place off the
through the dough to the baking sur- knife; if they are a little too wide to
face. Refrigerate the shell for ½ fit neatly, shave a bit off the sides of
hour at least; the dough must relax, each group. Only 2 apples are needed
or it may bake out of shape. when you slice them this way and the
tart serves 4 people, while the verti-
*Ahead-of-time note: Or wrap and cal slices arranged the length of the
freeze the shell on its baking sheet; tart are more flexible. Sprinkle the
no need to thaw it before baking. remaining sugar over the apples.
VARIATION
Pear Tart
Substitute firm ripe pears for

apples-Bartletts are my favorite
here.
A famous upside-down apple

tart.
Tarte Tatin is the French name for

this famous dessert invented years
ago by the Demoiselles Tatin, in their
restaurant at Lamotte-Beuvron on the
Loire River. It is caramelized sliced
apples oven-baked in a skillet with
the pastry on top; when done, it is
turned upside down so the crust is on
the bottom and the apple slices-
wonderfully brown, buttery, and
glazed with caramel-remain in a Tatin between 8:55 and 8:58:30 a.m. La Tarte Tatin
design on the top. one day on "Good Morning Amer-
ica." To show it all in our short For an 8-inch tart, serving 6
Historical Note. The following ver- amount of allotted time, we had pre-
5 to 6 apples, Golden Delicious
sion is my fourth and, so far as I am pared the tart in various stages-
plenty of sliced raw apples at the recommended-the right apple is
concerned, definitive recipe for this essential here (see also other
wonderful tart. It can be tricky-the ready, then caramel and butter cook-
suggestions on page 424)
caramel juices can refuse to thicken, ing in one frying pan and apples
going into it. Switch to ready- The grated rind and juice of 1 lemon
the apples can be either so loose the 1½ cups sugar
tart collapses when unmolded, or so arranged apples in another frying
3 ounces (6 Tbs) unsalted butter, cut
stiff they stick to the pan, and so pan, which had to be tipped to show
the perfect thickness of the caramel into ½-inch pieces
forth. But after numerous trials with 8 ounces butter pastry dough (about
my colleagues Nancy Barr and Beth syrup before the pastry went on top,
half the recipe on page 381)
Gurney, I think we have worked out and finally the ready-baked tart to be
Optional accompaniment: whipped
the bugs. unmolded successfully before the
camera. In addition and in case of cream, sour cream, or vanilla ice
disaster and retakes, there were three cream
As an example, Nancy and our tele-
vision cooking team managed to pre- standbys-an apple-filled frying pan
sent the making and serving of a tarte and two ready-baked tarts-a real
hassle to get all of that ready so early
in the morning. Whether many of
our viewers were able to follow the
final intricate proceedings, I don't
know-but we did it all in one take,
in 3 ½ minutes, and we felt
triumphant.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: Preliminary stove-top cooking-?,O to

A heavy ovenprooffrying pan, such as 2 5 minutes. (Preheat the oven to
cast-iron, 9 by 2 inches with fairly 425°F for the next step, placing the
straight sides, or heavy no-stick alumi- rack in the lower middle level.) Set
num; a bulb baster; a cover for the pan; the pan again over moderately high
a large enough flat-bottomed serving heat, pressing the apples down as
dish they soften, and drawing the accumu-
lated juices up over them with the
Preparing the apples. Quarter, core, bulb baster-basting gives the whole
and peel the apples; cut the quarters apple mass a deliciously buttery cara-
3. Pressing edges of dough down sides of pan
in half lengthwise. Toss in a bowl mel flavor. In several minutes, when
with the lemon and ½ cup of sugar, the apples begin to soften, cover the
and let steep 20 minutes so they will pan and continue cooking 10 to 15 Baking-about 20 minutes at 425°F.
exude their juices. Drain them. minutes, checking and basting fre- Bake until the pastry has browned
quently until the juices are thick and and crisped. Being careful of the red-
The caramel. Set the frying pan over syrupy. Remove from heat, and let hot pan handle, remove from the
moderately high heat with the butter, cool slightly while you roll out the oven.
and when melted blend in the re- dough.
maining sugar. Stir about with a Verification. Tilt the pan, and if the
wooden spoon for several minutes, juices are runny rather than a thick
until the syrup turns a bubbly cara- syrup, boil down rapidly on top of
mel brown-it will smooth out later, the stove, but be sure not to evapo-
when the apple juices dissolve the rate them completely or the apples
sugar. will stick to the pan.
Serving. Still remembering that the

pan is red-hot, turn the serving dish
upside down over the apples and re-
verse the two to unmold the tart. If
2. Laying the dough over the apples not quite neat in design-which does
happen-rearrange slices as neces-
sary. Serve hot, warm, or cold, with
The dough cover. Roll the chilled
the optional cream or ice cream.
dough into a circle 1/16 inch thick and
1 inch larger than the top of your
I . Arranging the apple slices over the caramel
pan. Cut 4 steam holes, ¼-inch size,
I ½ inches from around the center of VARIATIONS
the dough. Working rapidly, fold the

Arranging the apples in the pan. Re- dough in half, then in quarters; cen- Upside-Down Pear Tart
move from heat and arrange a layer ter the point over the apples. Unfold
of apple slices nicely in the bottom of the dough over the apples, step 2. Substitute firm ripe unblemished
the pan to make an attractive design, Press the edges of the dough down pears for the apples-Bartletts,
as illustrated, step 1. Arrange the between the apples and the inside of Cornice, or Bose.
rest of the apples on top, close packed the pan, step 3 .
and only reasonably neat. Add
enough so they heap up 1 inch higher
than the rim of the pan-they sink
down as they cook.
Caramelized Pears in Puff

Pastry
Feuilletes aux Poires
When peeled pear halves are sliced

almost to the stem and simmered in
caramel butter, the slices slowly fan
out in a most attractive way. Serve
them in puff pastry with pastry
cream, whipped cream, and caramel
for a very special dessert.
MANUFACTURING NOTE. This is a

good party item since the puff pastry and
pastry cream can be on hand in your
larder. Then, besides the pears, which
you may caramelize in advance, you
have only the cream to whip-but that
can wait a while in the refrigerator un-
til you are ready for a quick assembly
just before serving. I shall not give de-
tails for pastry cream, pastry, or
whipped cream since they appear else-
where in this book. The only new tech-
A melon baller; a heavy 10-inch frying
nique is that for the caramelized pears.
pan, no-stick recommended; a cover for
the pan; a bulb baster
For 6 feuilletes
3 fine ripe unblemished pears The pears. Halve the pears one at a
(Cornice, Bartlett, or Bose) time lengthwise, halving the stem
Freshly squeezed lemon juice also (if possible). Remove the core
4 ounces ( 1 stick) unsalted butter, with the melon baller and the bud
cut into ½-inch pieces end (bottom) with a small knife. Peel
the pear halves. Again with a small Pears fanning out as they cook
¾ cup sugar
3 Tbs dark Jamaican rum knife, and starting below the stem,
A pinch of salt slice the pear half, keeping the slices Caramelizing the pears. Melt the but-
6 baked puff pastry rectangles (page attached at the stem end. Brush ter in the frying pan, stir in the
391) lightly with lemon juice to prevent sugar, and cook several minutes over
1 cup rum-flavored pastry cream discoloration, and set aside on a plate moderately high heat, stirring slowly
(page 402) while doing the rest. and constantly until the butter foams
½ cup chilled heavy cream, and begins to turn a caramel brown.
whipped, sweetened, and flavored Don't worry if it lumps. Remove the
with rum or vanilla (page 440) pan from heat, and add the pears, cut
side down (domed side up) , in a
single layer. Bring to the bubble,
cover the pan, and regulate heat so
pears are slowly simmering. Every
several minutes baste the pears with FRESH FRUIT TARTS VARIATIO N S
the caramel. As they cook, the cara-
mel will clear of lumps and foam, Using sugar-cookie dough
and the pear slices will gradually fan
out as illustrated. They will be tender Fresh Berry Tarts Instead of serving a big fruit tart and
in 5 minutes or so. Remove them to a having leftovers, make charming in-
no-stick surface . How lovely, and how very easy to dividual tarts using the sweet cookie
make, are the fr_esh strawberry tart dough for sables, as described and il-
Caramel sauce . Boil down the qramel and tartlets pictured here, and they lustrated on page 4 8 9.
with the rum and pinch of salt until need no formal recipe except that for
it is a fairly thick syrup; pour into a the making of the shells on page 3 82.
smallish saucepan and reserve. Paint the inside of the shells with the
SPECIAL N OTE
warm red currant glaze ( see Special
*Ahead-of-time note: Both pears and Note), arrange beautiful ripe
Red Currant Glaze
caramel sauce may be cooked a day in stemmed strawberries over the glaze,
To glaze tarts, cakes, and red fruits (see
advance; cover and refrigerate. brush glaze over the strawberries also Apricot Glaze, page 42 7 )
themselves, and dessert is ready to
Assembling - an arrangement that I serve. Pass whipped cream separately Boil down 1¼ cups of red currant
found attractive. if you wish, or, rather than passing jelly for several minutes in a small
whipped cream, before arranging the sau_cepan with 2 tablespoons of sugar
The puff pastry rectangles. The pas- strawberries over the bottom of the until the last drops to fall from a
tries must be fine and fresh -tasting- glazed tart or tartlet shells, spread on spoon are thick and syrupy. Use
crisp them in the oven if necessary. a quarter inch or so of the pastry while still warm, or let cool and re-
They are to be split into 2 layers, the cream on page 402. Treat raspberries heat when needed.
bottom for the filling, and the top for or a collection of wild berries in ex-
edible decoration. Split them, and re- actly the same way.
move some of the central portion-
Using Meringue-Nut Cookies:
the layers should be about 3/s inch
Dacquoise T artlets
thick.
For 6 servings, replace the sugar
Arranging each serving. Shortly be-
cookie dough with the meringue-nut
fore serving, drop a pool of caramel
mixture on page 4 7 4, formed into a
sauce in the center of each plate-
dozen 3 ½ -inch disks. Just before
about 1½ tablespoons. Place the bot-
serving, arrange half the disks on
tom of a pastry layer a little to the
dessert plates, spread a thin layer of
side of the sauce. Spread a layer of
whipped cream over the top of each,
pastry cream over the pastry, then lift
and cover with sliced strawberries.
a pear half crosswise onto the cream,
Pipe swirls of whipped cream over
letting the slices fan out. Anoint the
the sliced berries and arrange a fine
pear with a good spoonful of caramel
large whole strawberry in the center.
sauce, and drop a big spoonful of
Using a serrated knife, carefully saw
whipped cream at one side of the pas-
the remaining 6 disks into quarters
try, placing the pastry top at the other
and push quarters at a slant around
side. Serve promptly.
the central strawberry. Puree a dozen
berries with sugar and lemon to taste,
and spoon around the tartlets.
TWO THANKSGIVING
SPECIALS
A Fluffy Pumpkin Pie
It's creamy, it's even light; it's a

pumpkin souffie in a pie crust . (See
also the cold pumpkin souffie, page
449.)
For an I I -inch pie ( or two 9-inch

pies), serving 16 to 20
Chilled butter pastry dough (page

381), using 3½ cups of flour
The basic pumpkin mixture

3½ cups cooked or canned (solid
pack) pumpkin
1 cup light brown sugar
1 cup granulated sugar
1 tsp salt
½ inch above the top of the pan. (Do Minute 15. When the rim of the
3 Tbs light molasses
not prick the bottom of the pastry.) crust colors lightly, reduce heat to
3 Tbs bourbon whiskey or dark
37 5°F and bake 15 minutes more.
Jamaican rum The pumpkin mixture. Blend the basic (Lower heat if the pastry begins to
3 tsp each cinnamon and ground pumpkin ingredients together in a brown too much.)
ginger mixing bowl; the mixture should
¼ tsp each nutmeg and ground hold its shape softly in a spoon; beat
cloves Minute 3 0. Turn thermostat down
in droplets more milk if it seems
4 egg yolks to 350°F, and continue baking an-
stiff. Beat the egg whites into stiff
1 cup heavy cream other 15 minutes or so, until a
peaks ( page 46 1), and beat a quarter
¾ cup milk, or more if needed skewer comes out clean when you in-
of them into the pumpkin mixture.
sert it 2 inches from the edges of the
Delicately fold in the rest.
5 egg whites pie.
Optional garnish: whipped cream Filling the shell. At once, ladle the
(see Special Note, page 440) or mixture into the pie shell, filling only Minute 45 to 50. Turn the oven
vanilla ice cream; 1 cup or more to the rim of the pan. Proceed at once off, and leave the door ajar for 20 to
pulverized pralin (nut brittle) to the baking. 3 0 minutes more.
(page 423)
Baking-about 1 hour, starting at
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: 450°F. Keep your eye on things here,
*Ahead-of-time note: Serve the pie
A buttered pie pan 11 inches in diame- warm or cold.
since if the filling cooks too fast it can
ter ( or two buttered 9-inch pans) turn watery.
Serving. You may wish to accompany
Preliminaries. Preheat the oven to Start. Immediately after the shell each serving with whipped cream or
45 0°F. Roll out the chilled dough is filled, set the pie in the middle vanilla ice cream; dusting it ~ith a
and fit it into the pie pan, making a level of the preheated oven and bake sprinkle of nut brittle is an appetiz-
strong, fluted rim that extends about for 15 minutes. ing touch.
A Mincemeat Pie-Tart for SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGEST.ED: Baking-25 to 30 minutes at 400°F.

Thanksgiving A ravioli wheel and a pastry brush Bake in the middle level of the pre-
heated oven until the filling is bub-
Mince pie is a tart when it stands Dough strips for the top decoration. bling and the pastry topping has
proud and free in a crusty shell, and Roll out the chilled raw dough into a browned nicely. Let cool 20 minutes,
this recipe uses store-bought mince- rectangle Vs inch thick and cut into then slide the tart onto a serving
meat enhanced with a number of 10-inch strips ¼ inch wide. Arrange dish. Whether it is warm or cold,
good suggestions to make it your on a lightly floured baking sheet; you may wish to accompany your
very own creation. cover and chill or freeze until mincemeat tart with great scoops of
needed. vanilla ice cream.
For a 9-inch tart, serving 8 to 10
The mincemeat. By having previously
A 9-inch partially baked pie shell poured dried beans or rice into the
(page 382), and about 2 cups of empty form you baked the pie shell OTHER TARTS IN OTHER
the chilled raw dough for top in, and having measured the amount, PLACES
decoration you will know how much filling you
4 to 6 cups (2 to 2½ pounds) bottled need. Pour the mincemeat into a Dessert tarts using French puff pas-
or reconstituted dehydrated saucepan and bring to the simmer; try ( pages 391-5)
mincemeat remove from heat and taste very ana-
Suggested additions-any or all, to lytically for seasoning. Stir in such Making pastry shells with pie dough
additions as you wish-the chopped ( pages 3 82-5)
your taste
beef or pork and the suet, by the way,
Chopped raw apples or pears
are for more body and oomph-
Chopped nuts such as walnuts,
that's where the mincemeat title
almonds, hazelnuts, and pecans
comes m.
Chopped raisins
Seasonings: cinnamon, ground
cloves, mace, nutmeg, salt, and
a day or more in advance to this
pepper
point.
½ cup very finely chopped beef or
pork tenderloin
¼ to ½ cup very finely chopped beef
suet (fat from around the
kidneys)
Several Tbs of good brandy, dark
Jamaican rum, or bourbon
whiskey
Egg glaze ( 1 egg beaten with 1 tsp

water and a pinch of salt)
Optional accompaniment: vanilla ice
Weaving the lattice pattern
cream
Filling the shell. Shortly before bak-

ing, turn the filling into the prebaked
shell. Paint the pastry rim with egg
glaze and weave a raw-dough lattice
pattern over the top, as illustrated.
Paint the dough strips with egg
glaze.
SPECIAL NOTE
Whipped Cream: Lightly Whipped Cream: *Ahead-of-time note: If the wait is

A Dessert Essential Creme Chantilly about ½ hour, refrigerate the cream
in its bowl of ice, and beat it up
For 2 cups briefly before adding the optional
sugar. If the wait is an hour or two it
To Whip Cream 1 cup(½ pint) chilled heavy or is a good idea to turn the cream into a
whipping cream large sieve lined with well-washed
Perfectly whipped cream, the kind to Optional sweetening andfiavoring cheesecloth, and set over a bowl to
serve with desserts, rises to twice its catch drippings; store in the
½ cup confectioners sugar in a sieve
original volume, is light and airy, refrigerator.
1 tsp pure vanilla extract, or ½ tsp
but holds its shape softly-a heavenly
vanilla and 1 tsp rum, Cognac, or
edible cloud. It is usually subtly
other liqueur
sweetened and flavored with confec-
VAR IATION
tioners sugar and vanilla or liqueur. SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
A 2 ½ - to 3 -quart round-bottomed Stiffiy Whipped Cream-for
MANUFACTURING NOTES.
stainless bowl set in a larger bow l of ice Cakes and Flourishes
cubes with water to cover; a large bal-
Ice. You will never have trouble
loon-shaped wire whip ( page 464) or a You will sometimes want stiffer
whipping cream if you always do it in
portable electric mixer cream for decorating cakes, or for
chilled conditions-in other words,
whip the cream in a metal bowl set piping through a pastry tube. In this
Whipping the cream. Pour the cream case, simply whip it until it forms
over a larger bowl of ice cubes and
into the metal bowl set over ice. If soft peaks-if you go too far it will
water.
you are using the large whip, incor- begin turning into butter.
porate as much air as possible,
The type of cream. Whether or not it
sweeping inside the bowl, lifting the
is ultra-pasteurized, always choose
whip above the surface for each rapid
"heavy" or "whipping" cream.
plunge, rotating the bowl , etc . For
the portable mixer, circulate it
The mechanism. I don't recommend
around and through the bowl with
table-model mixers since they do not
vigorous movements . In 3 to 4 min-
beat in as much air as you can incor-
utes the cream will begin to
porate yourself by hand, using either
thicken-it is not a fast operation.
the big balloon whip or the portable
For most uses, the cream is done
electric mixer.
when the beater leaves light traces on
the surface, and holds softly when
lifted in the beater or a spoon.
Optional sugar and flavoring. Just be-

fore serving, sift on the sugar, add
the vanilla or liqueur, and fold them
in with a large rubber spatula.
APPLE AND PEAR

COMPOTES AND
CUSTARDS
F resh fruit compotes-that is,

fruits poached in vanilla
syrup-make lovely refreshing des-
serts when you are looking for one
that is simple and fat-free. Compotes
are also a useful device for fruits that
would otherwise over-ripen, or for
fruits that are just not quite ripe
enough to eat raw. Serve them just as
they are with a little of their poaching
syrup, or with cream or a custard
sauce, or bake them handsomely in a
custard tart as described at the end of
this section.
The Rule for Poaching Syrup. SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: Poaching the apples. Bring to just be-
The proportions for a fruit-poaching A 2 ½- to 3-quart stainless saucepan low the simmer-actually simmering
syrup are always 1½ cups of sugar roomy enough to hold the apples in 1 or boiling will burst the fruit. Main-
for each quart of liquid-water or layer; an apple corer tain at below the simmer for 12 to 15
wine; or 6 tablespoons of sugar per minutes, or until tender throughout
cup of liquid. The p oaching syrup. Bring the liquid when pierced with a skewer. Let cool
and sugar to the simmer in the sauce- in the syrup for 3 0 minutes so the
pan. Meanwhile cut the zests (yellow apples will absorb its flavor.
·part of peel) off the lemons in strips
II\ MASTER RECIPE
and add to the pan, along with the *Ahead-of-time note: The apples may
strained juice of the lemons, and the be cooked several days in advance;
Apple Compote vanilla. Remove from heat and swirl refrigerate them in their poaching
Apples poached in vanilla syrup the pan to dissolve the sugar liquid.
completely.
For 6 apples Serving suggestions. Serve warm or
1 quart of w ater, or 2 cups of w ater Preparing the apples. Set the pan be- cold, either with a little of their
and 2 cups of dry w hite wine side your apple preparation area. poaching syrup or with cream or cus-
1½ cups sugar One at a time, neatly peel and core tard sauce.
2 lemons the apples, and to prevent discolora-
2 Tbs pure v anilla extract tion drop them into the syrup as you
6 firm ripe unblemished apples- go . The syrup should cover the frui t
Goldens, Granny Smiths, or other by ½ inch; measure out and add
apples that w ill hold their shape more water if necessary, blending in
during cooking (page 424) 6 tablespoons of sugar per cup.
VARIATION The croutons . Cut the bread slices into Pear Clafouti
6 rounds with a 3-inch cutter. Saute A custard fruit tart
Pear Compote in the clarified butter to brown
lightly on each side. This is actually a clafouti spin-off,
Substitute pears for apples, but do the original being a puddinglike,
not core them; leave the stems on *Ahead-of-time note: The glazing peasanty dish that originated around
while peeling them, and shave a bit syrup and croutons may be prepared Limoges in east central France. My
off the bottoms so they will stand in advance. French colleague, Simca, and I
upright. worked on a lighter version with
Serving. Spread a thin coating of plums for Mastering II, and this is a
sieved apricot jam over each crouton spin-off of that, being my interpreta-
and arrange on serving plates. Just tion of a charming dessert we ad-
Glazed Poached Apples before serving, top each with a well- mired and were served at an old-
or Pears drained poached apple or pear, and fashioned hotel in Nemours, south of
pour a spoonful of glazing syrup Paris. It was a tart-large whole
Here is a dressier presentation, over each. Pass the optional cream or poached and glazed pears sitting se-
where the poached fruits are set on custard sauce separately. renely upright, surrounded by a cus-
croutons, and napped with a glazing tard in a deep pie shell.
syrup made from their poaching
liquid.
VARIATIONS
For 6 servings
Sugar Cookies or Meringues.
The preceding apple or pear kather than arranging the poached
compote fruit on croutons, use either the sugar
¾ cup apricot jam, sieved to remove cookies on page 489, or the
skin and pulp meringue-nut cookies described for
6 slices of white sandwich bread the fruit tarts on page 43 7. Paint
3 to 4 Tbs clarified butter (page 139) these with sieved apricot glaze as also
Optional accompaniment: lightly described. Place the well-drained
whipped cream (page 440), or Expandable baking ring
fruit on top, anoint with the glazing
sour cream, or custard sauce syrup, and pass whipped cream
(page 446) separately. See also the recipe MANUFACTURING NOTE. Of course
following, where the poached fruit is you could bake and serve the dessert in a
The glazing syrup . Blend 1 cup of the baked in a pastry shell. dish rather than a free-form pastry shell
poaching liquid with ½ cup of the and you w ould call it a flan rather than
sieved apricot jam, and boil down for Ice Cream. Or serve the fruits over a tart. However, the charm of the crust
several minutes in a small saucepan a good spoonful of vanilla ice cream, cannot be denied. You' 11 need a deep
until the last drops to fall from a topping them with the glazing syrup. shell here, which may be formed and
spoon are thick and sticky. Set aside, baked in a 9- by 2-inch cake pan, but
and reheat briefly to re-liquefy before better yet is the expandable ring 2 inches
usrng. high being held up in the illustration.
Used for cakes as well as pastry shells,
these useful items are carried in bakery
supply stores, which you'11 find listed in
the yellow pages.
The glaze. While the custard bakes,

blend the poaching syrup and sieved
jam in a small saucepan and boil
down until the last drops to fall from
a spoon are thick and sticky-reheat
briefly to liquefy before using.
Serving. When the custard is done,

remove it from the oven and let cool
20 minutes, tightening the foil collar
if necessary to prevent the warm shell
from spreading out. After its rest the
custard will have firmed up suffi-
ciently for you to slide it gently, still
wearing its collar, onto the serving
dish. Then remove the collar. Serve
warm or cold.
VARIATIONS
C lafouti with stuffed pears

For 6 servings The custard. Blend the flour and
sugar in a mixing bowl and gradually
6 whole pears poached in vanilla In the preceding recipe the pears are
whisk in the cool pear-poaching liq-
syrup, Pear Compote; see not cored, but they could be cored
uid. Beat in the eggs, cream, and
Variation on preceding page and stuffed, as in the following sug-
vanilla.
gestion for apples.
The custard
2 Tbs flour Assembling the tart. (Preheat the oven
2 Tbs sugar to 350°F.) Place the shell on the bak-
½ cup cool pear-poaching liquid ing sheet, and surround the shell Apple C lafouti
2 "large" eggs with the foil strip, pinning it closely Apple Custard Tart
1/J cup heavy cream or sour cream in place. Patch any breaks or cracks
1 tsp pure vanilla extract in the shell from the inside, with the Choose Golden Delicious apples.
raw dough. Stand 6 poached pears in Peel and core them, and poach as de-
A prebaked pastry shell 9 inches in the shell and pour the custard around scribed in page 441. Before arrang-
diameter and 2 inches deep (page them. Proceed at once to the next ing the poached apples in the pastry
382), plus a little leftover raw step.
dough if needed for patching
shell, stuff the cored centers with a
mixture of chopped walnuts and
The glaze Baking-about 30 minutes at 350°F. brown sugar mixed to a paste with a
Bake in the middle level of the pre- little unsalted butter. Then proceed
1 cup pear-poaching liquid
heated oven until a trussing needle with the recipe.
½ cup sieved apricot jam
plunged into the center of the custard
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: comes out almost clean. Do not over-
A lightly buttered baking sheet; a cook-the custard should remain
double-thickness foil strip to surround tender.
the tart shell during baking; straight
pins to hold the foil in place; a serving
dish of sufficient size
0
CUSTARD DESSERTS
H ow lovely is the smooth and

tender beauty of a caramel
custard, carefully baked, unmolded,
and standing high. A flavored liquid
bound with eggs and heated just
enough for the eggs either to hold the
mixture softly in shape or to thicken
it into a cream, the custard idea is
among the oldest of the dessert
techniques.
Caramel Custard
A baking dish is lined with caramel,

and when the custard is baked in the
dish, it emerges with a caramel coat-
ing. For maximum drama, bake the
custard in a deep dish. The tinned
charlotte mold pictured here is the The caramel. Following the detailed The custard mixture . (Preheat the
perfect shape, its little ears placed at directions on page 42 1, bring the oven to 3 5 0°F.) Blend the eggs,
just the right distance from the rim sugar and water to the simmer in the yolks, and sugar in a bowl with a
of the dish so you can get your fin- saucepan, swirling the pan to dissolve whip-stir ; do not beat and create
gers around them for unmolding. the sugar completely. Cover the pan, foam. Gradually blend in the hot
boil to the caramel stage, and proceed milk to dissolve the sugar completely,
For an 8-cup baking dish, serving 8 to directly to the next step. Note: If the again stirring rather than beating to
10 caramel hardens while waiting for minimize foam. Add the vanilla and
you, rewarm it briefly until liquefied. salt; pour through the tea strainer
¾ cup sugar into the caramelized dish. Skim any
3 Tbs water Caramelizing the baking dish. Pour bubbles off the top of the custard.
For the custard half the caramel into the baking dish,
and swirl it around slowly for several Baking-¾ to 1 ¼ hours at 350°F.
6 "large" eggs
minutes, running the caramel over Set the baking dish in the larger dish
5 egg yolks
the bottom and halfway up the sides and place in the lower third of the
¾ cup sugar
until it stops moving. oven; pour boiling water around to
1 quart hot milk
come halfway up the baking dish. In
2 or more tsp pure vanilla extract
Caramel sauce. Pour ½ cup of water 10 minutes check the water in the
A pinch of salt
into the cooking pan and simmer 2 to larger dish and regulate the heat so
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: 3 minutes to dissolve the caramel. Set the water is at the not-quite-
A 6-cup stainless saucepan with tight- the syrup aside until serving time. simmer-if it boils the custard will
.fitting cover for the caramel; an 8-cup be grainy, but the water must be al-
baking dish 4 inches deep, preferably of most simmering or the custard will
metal; a tea strainer; a larger dish to take hours to cook.
hold the baking dish in the oven
When is it done? It is done when a Following the directions for Caramel The cinnamon toast. Use half the but-
skewer plunged down an inch from Custard, line the ramekins with cara- ter to spread on the bread; arrange
the edge comes out clean; the center mel, fill with the custard mixture, buttered side up on the rack of a
should still tremble slightly. and set in a roasting pan. Surround broiling pan. Sprinkle the cinnamon-
with boiling water, and bake 20 to 25 sugar over each slice and, watching
Unmolding. Remove the custard pan minutes, until a skewer plunged Vs carefully that the bread does not
from the hot water and let it settle for inch from the edge comes out clean burn, set under the broiler until the
at least 3 0 minutes, or until serving but the centers tremble slightly. Re- sugar bubbles up . Cut each slice into
time. To unmold, run a thin, sharp move from the water, and let settle at 4 triangles. Smear the baking dish
knife between custard and dish; turn least 10 minutes before unmolding. with the remaining butter, and crowd
the serving dish upside down over in the toast triangles, sugared side
the mold and reverse the two-the up .
custard will slowly slip out. Pour the
extra caramel syrup around. Cinnamon Toast Flan The custard mixture. Prepare the cus-
tard mixture according to the direc-
*Ahead-of-time note: Do not unmold You could call this a bread-and-butter tions on the next page.
the custard; when it has cooled, cover pudding, but that title bespeaks nurs-
and put in the refrigerator, where the ery food to me. Besides, this is not a Assembling. (Preheat the oven to
custard will keep nicely for a day or bread-and-butter base but a cinnamon 3 5 0°F.) Ladle half the custard
two. Unmold before serving, as toast base, and the flan is baked in a through the sieve over the cinnamon
described. shallow dish-this is the kind of toast; let sit 5 minutes while the toast
first-class grown-up dessert that even absorbs it. Ladle on the rest.
a child will enjoy.
VARIATIONS
For 6 to 8 servings Place the dish in the roasting pan and
Individual Caramel Custards set in the lower middle level of the
4 Tbs softened butter
oven; pour boiling water into the pan
6 or 7 slices white sandwich bread
to come halfway up the custard dish.
To each his own custard-bake them about 3/s inch thick, crusts left on
Regulate the oven heat during baking
in individual ramekins, such as small ¼ cup sugar mixed with 2 tsp
so that the water in the pan never ac-
Pyrex bowls 3 ½ inches across and ground cinnamon
tually simmers.
2¾ inches deep, holding 1/3 cup.
The caramel custard recipe propor- The custard
5 "large" eggs When is it done ? It is done when a
tions will fill 12 of these, but you
5 egg yolks trussing needle comes out clean if
may wish less, as follows.
¾ cup sugar plunged within an inch of the sides;
3¾ cups hot milk it should come out almost clean, with
For 8 ramekins, 2/2-cup size
1 ½ Tbs pure vanilla extract a few custardy bits clinging, when
2½ cups milk plunged into the central section.
½ cup sugar Optional accompaniments:
3 "large" eggs strawberry or raspberry sauce Serving. Serve as is, hot , tepid, or
3 egg yolks (page 419); caramel sauce (page cold, and accompany, if you wish,
1 tsp pure vanilla extract 420); or cut-up fresh fruits with one of the listed suggestions.
A 6-cup baking dish 2 inches deep; a
fine-meshed sieve; a roasting pan large
enough to hold the baking dish
THREE DESSERTS BASED Continue beating 2 to 3 minutes, un- Creme Anglaise as the
ON CREME ANGLAISE til the mixture is pale yellow and Principal Sauce for a
thick. By dribbles, stir in the hot Handsome Dessert
Custard sauce-creme anglaise-is milk-stirring, not beating, because
certainly one of the most useful items you do not want the sauce to foam.
to have in your dessert repertoire,
since it is often your best choice to Heating the sauce. Set the saucepan Floating Island
serve with puddings, and fruits over moderately low heat, stirring
either fresh or poached; it can be the rather slowly with the wooden spoon , Egg whites and sugar are whipped
main ingredient for ice cream, as and reaching all over the bottom and together into a meringue, piled into a
well as being the base for the three sides of the pan. The sauce should casserole, and baked slowly to form a
desserts here. gradually come near-but not to- soft, sweet noncollapsible souffie.
the simmer. You must be careful not Unmold it, carve it into iceberg
to overheat it and scramble the yolks, chunks, and plop it into a sea of cus- '\
but you must have the courage to heat tard sauce. A delicate web of caramel
JI\ MASTER RECIPE it enough so that it thickens. Indica- finishes the picture-perfect dessert-
tions that it is almost ready are that spectacular, but easy on the cook.
Creme Anglaise: Custard surface bubbles begin to subside, and
Sauce almost at once you may see a whiff of For 6 to 8 servings
steam rising. Watch out at this point,
1 Tbs softened butter
Creme anglaise is a lightly thickened you are almost there!
¼ cup sifted confectioners sugar
pale yellow dessert sauce made of egg
yolks, sugar, and milk heated to- The meringue
gether into a warm cream. The only 1% cups egg whites (about 12 egg
trick is to heat the mixture slowly in whites)
order for the yolks to poach and A big pinch of salt
thicken, but not scramble. ½ tsp cream of tartar
1½ cups granulated sugar
For about 2 cups 1 tsp pure vanilla extract
6 egg yolks The caramel
% cup sugar 1 cup granulated sugar
1 ½ cups hot milk
The finger test 1/3 cup water
3 Tbs unsalted butter, optional 2 cups of the preceding master recipe
2 Tbs rum, Cognac, or other When is it done? The sauce is done for Creme Anglaise
liqueur, optional when it coats the wooden spoon with
a light creamy layer thick enough to SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: hold when you draw your finger A straight-sided 4-quart baking dish 3
A 2-quart stainless saucepan; a wire across it, as shown. inches deep; a table-model electric mixer
whisk and a wooden spoon ( page 4 61) or portable beater
Finishing. Beat in the vanilla, and the
Preliminaries. Whisk the egg yolks in optional butter and rum. Serve The meringue -which may be baked
the saucepan, adding the sugar by warm, tepid, or cold. several days in advance, and served
fairly rapid spoonfuls-if it goes in tepid or chilled.
all at once the yolks can turn grainy. *Ahead-of-time note: The sauce may
be refrigerated in a covered container Preliminaries. Butter the baking
for several days. dish; dust it with confecti~ners sugar,
knocking out excess. Preheat the
oven to 250°F.
Beating the egg whites. Following

the detailed directions on page 461,
start beating the egg whites at moder-
ate speed until they foam throughout,
beat in the salt and cream of tartar,
then gradually increase the speed to
fast until soft peaks are formed.
Beating in the sugar. Beat in the

sugar by big spoonfuls and continue
until stiff shining peaks are formed.
Beat in the vanilla, and turn the me-
ringue into the baking dish .
Baking-35 to 40 minutes at 250 9 F.

Set in the lower middle of the oven
and bake until the meringue has risen
3 to 4 inches.
I . The skewer test
When is it done? A skewer or straw

plunged through it comes out clean,
as illustrated, step I.
Cooling. Set the casserole on a rack.

Serving. Pour the custard sauce into a
The meringue will sink down to
serving platter. Run a knife around
about its original height as it cools.
the edge of the meringue dish and
push with a rubber spatula to loosen.
*Ahead-of-time note: Covered airtight,
U nmold the meringue onto a cookie
it will keep several days in the refrig-
sheet. Cut it into 6 to 8 big chunks
erator or several weeks in the freezer.
and arrange them over the sauce, step
2.
Caramel for decorations. Somewhat in
advance of serving, make the caramel
Caramel-thread decorations . Just be-
( page 42 I); reheat when needed. 2 . Cutting the meringue into islands
fore serving, reheat the caramel until
you can lift the syrup with a fork and
dribble thick strands over meringue.
Creme Anglaise Makes a

Bavarian Cream
Louisiana Bavarian
Bavarian creams are molded des-

serts-custard sauce lightened with
whipped cream and bound with just
enough gelatin so that it will softly
and creamily hold its shape when un-
molded. Our example here is actually
a sophisticated rice pudding flavored
with rum and raisins.
For 6 to 8 servings
A little tasteless oil (pure fresh

vegetable or almond oil, for
instance), or no-stick spray, for
the mold
The rice SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: The raisins and rum. Meanwhile rinse
½ cup plain raw rice, medium-grain A 6-cup fancy mold, or a square or cy- the raisins in hot water, drain well,
suggested for tenderness, but lindrical metal container; a heavy 2- and blend in a bowl with the gelatin
long-grain will do quart stainless saucepan for simmering and rum. Set aside.
1213 cups milk, plus more, if needed rice and milk; a wide bowl of ice cubes
1/3 cup sugar
with water to cover, for quick chilling The creme anglaise. Following the
2 Tbs butter
master recipe, beat the sugar into the
1 tsp pure vanilla extract The container. Brush or spray the egg yolks, and when thick and pale
A pinch of freshly grated nutmeg mold lightly and, if the design per- yellow, gradually whisk in the milk;
A pinch of salt mits, line the bottom with oiled or stir over moderate heat until
The rum and raisins sprayed wax paper for ease in thickened.
unmolding.
¾ cup currants (small black raisins)
1½ Tbs unflavored gelatin *Ahead-of-time note: All parts of the
Cooking the rice-about 45 minutes. recipe may be completed in advance
¼ cup dark Jamaican rum
Bring 3 quarts of water to the boil in to this point. Gently reheat the rice
The creme anglaise a s~ucepan, sprinkle in the rice, and and the sauce over hot water before
¾ cup sugar boil 5 minutes; drain. Turn the rice proceeding.
6 egg yolks into the heavy saucepan and bring to
1 ½ cups hot milk the simmer with the milk, sugar, Combining raisins, sauce, and rice.
butter, vanilla, nutmeg, and salt. Fold the rum-soaked raisins into the
1 cup chilled whipping cream
Cover and cook very slowly for about hot custard sauce, stirring to be sure
1½ cups Caramel Sauce (page 420)
3 5 minutes, stirring gently once in a the gelatin has completely dissolved.
while and adding droplets more milk Slowly fold the sauce into the sauce-
if needed, until the rice is deliciously pan of rice.
tender and the liquid has been
absorbed.
The whipped cream. Whip the cream

over ice until the beater leaves light
traces on the surface, following the
detailed directions on page 440.
Final assembly. Replace the bowl of

whipped cream with the pan of rice
and custard in the ice. Fold with a
rubber spatula for several minutes,
just until the mixture is cool to your
finger-careful here, since if it chills
it will start to set and you will have to
reheat and rechill it. As soon as it is
cool, remove immediately from the
ice and rapidly fold into it the
whipped cream. At once, before it
can set, turn the dessert into the pre-
pared mold.
Chilling-3 to 4 hours. Cover with

plastic wrap, and refrigerate for sev-
eral hours, until fully set.
VARIATION 6 egg whites(¾ cup), stiffly beaten
Serving. Dip the mold into hot water,
with ¼ cup sugar (page 462)
loosen the edges with a small sharp Cold Pumpkin Souffie ¾ cup heavy cream, lightly whipped
knife, and unmold onto a chilled
(page 440)
serving platter. Spoon the caramel
Take the pumpkin out of the pie Accompaniment: 1 cup heavy
sauce over the dessert just before
shell, treat it like a Bavarian beauty cream, lightly whipped, flavored
servmg. with egg whites, cream, and other with confectioners sugar and pure
good things-and you have a splen- vanilla extract (page 440)
*Ahead-of-time note: The refrigerated did dessert for Thanksgiving or any
dessert in its mold will keep 2 to 3 time of the year, including the SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
days, and the unmolded but unsauced A bowl of ice cubes with water to cover;
Fourth of July. Note: See also the
dessert may be covered with an up- a 6-cup fairly straight-sided baking dish
Fluffy Pumpkin Pie ( page 43 8).
turned bowl and refrigerated for sev- 3 to 3 ½ inches deep with a 3-inch collar
eral hours. of wax paper ( illustrated on page 72)
For a 6-cup dish, serving 12
The pumpkin base

The pumpkin base. Whisk the egg
6 egg yolks yolks and brown sugar in a heavy 3-
½ cup dark brown sugar quart pan until thick and pale yellow;
1¼ cups hot milk by dribbles whisk in the hot milk,
1¾ cups cooked or canned solid- then the pumpkin. Beat in flavorings
pack pumpkin puree to taste. Stir over moderate heat until
Flavorings: salt, cinnamon, ground hot but not simmering. Mix in the
ginger and/or cloves, and nutmeg dissolved gelatin and the ginger mar-
1½ Tbs unflavored gelatin, dissolved malade. Fold over ice until cool but
in½ cup dark rum or in cider, not chilled, and proceed at once to
plus drops of pure vanilla extract the next step before the gelatin sets.
¾ cup ginger marmalade
Cold Pumpkin Souffie (continued) For a_ 2-quart bowl, _serving 6 The custard sauce. Bring the milk to
below the simmer in a small saucepan
The cake
Completing the souffte mixture. Beat the with the lemon rind and bay leaf;
egg whites as directed; stir a dollop _An -·8- by 1 ½-incl?- spongecake, cover and let steep 5 minutes or
of them into the pumpkin mixture to genoise; or best-quality store- more. Meanwhile start beating the
soften it; delicately fold in the rest. bought yellow cake egg yolks in a stainless saucepan,
Beat the cream over the ice; fold it 1 cup best-quality raspberry jam gradually beating in the sugar until
in. Fill the dish with the pumpkin 1½ cups excellent sherry thick and lemon colored. Slowly beat
1/3 cup good-quality Cognac or
mixture, which should extend an inch the hot milk into the yolks, then
or more into the paper collar. Cover brandy thicken over moderate heat as de-
and chill 6 hours or more. For the custard sauce (4 cups) scribed in the master recipe on page
2½ cups milk
446 . Remove from heat and beat in
*Ahead-of-time note: The dessert may The rind ( yellow part only) of 1 the vanilla, the ¼ cup of cream, then
be frozen at this point; thaw several lemon
by spoonfuls the optional butter. Stir
...
hours in the refrigerator. 1 medium imported bay leaf over cold water for a few minutes
9 egg yolks
until tepid, then strain over the
Serving. Remove the collar. Decorate -1 cup granulated sugar sherry-soaked spongecake.
the dessert with whipped cream, 1 ½ Tbs pure anilla extract
passing the rest separately. Chilling-5 to 6 hours. Cover and
¼ cup heavy cream
3 Tbs unsalted butter, optional chill until softly set.
1 cup additional heavy cream, *Ahead-of-time note: May be made a

Creme Anglaise Makes a chilled, whipped, and lightly day or two in advance-unless you
Tipsy Trifle flavored with confectioners sugar use kiwis.
and drops of vanilla (page 440)
Optional decorative suggestions: 3 or Serving. Spread the whipped cream
4 kiwis, peeled and sliced over the custard, and decorate with
The Kiwi Trifle crosswise; a handful of shaved whatever tidbits you have chosen.
almonds, skins on, and another of
This deliciously simple tipsy dessert miniature macaroons ½ inch in
consists of jam-spread spongecake diameter (sometimes called
drenched in sherry and brandy, Ratafias, or amarettis)
cloaked in custard sauce, chilled, and
topped with whipped cream, al- Preparing the cake. Slice the cake in
monds, and tiny macaroons. half horizontally ( page 460), spread
the bottom half with jam, re-form
Kiwi caution. Kiwis, that decorative the cake, and cut into wedges to fit
and formerly trendy fruit, are an at- the bottom of the bowl. If you are
tractive decoration if you are serving using them, place a row of kiwi
the dessert in a see-through bowl, but slices, laid flat, around the inside bot-
if you use them don't make the des- tom of the bowl. Pack the cake
sert more than a few hours in ad- wedges in one close layer into the
vance since there is an enzyme in bowl, pour on the sherry and brandy,
kiwis that can, in time, turn a custard and let imbibe while you prepare the
watery. custard.
FINAL MISCELLANY
Including Chocolate Mousse,

Plum Pudding with Whiskey
Sauce, and an Immense
Fruit Bowl
Chocolate Mousse
This uncomplicated but first-rate

chocolate mousse features, of course,
chocolate, plus butter for body, egg
yolks for tenderness, beaten egg
whites for lightness, and whipped
cream for the extra calories and cer-
tain smooth richness that only
whipped cream can give.
NOTE: The master recipe for whipping

cream is on page 440;for beating egg
whites, on page 4 61; for melting choco-
late, on page 464.
8 ounces sweet or semisweet baking

chocolate, melted with ¼ cup
strong coffee
3 ounces (6 Tbs) softened unsalted
butter
3 egg yolks
1 cup heavy cream
3 egg whites
Butter and egg yolks. Beat the soft Finishing. Scrape the chocolate
¼ cup "instant" (finely ground)
butter into the smoothly melted choc- mixture down the side of the egg-
sugar
olate. One by one, beat in the egg yolks. white bowl, and delicately fold them
Optional accompani~nt: whipped
together. When almost blended fold
cream
The whipped cream. Beat the cream in the whipped cream.
over the ice until it leaves light traces
A smallish saucepan with tight-fitting on the surface. Chilling and serving. Turn the mousse
cover for the chocolate, and a larger into an attractive serving bowl, or
pan of almost-simmering water to hold The egg whites. Beat the egg whites into individual coupes or containers.
it; a 3 -quart metal bowl for the cream, until they form soft peaks. While Cover and chill several hours. You
and a larger bowl with ice cubes and beating, sprinkle in the sugar by may wish to decorate the mousse with
water to hold it; a clean dry bowl and spoonfuls and continue beating until swirls of whipped cream, or to pass
beater for the egg whites stiff shining peaks are formed. whipped cream separately.
A Glorious Plum Pudding the lid. Set the container on the

for Christmas steaming -contraption in the kettle,
and add enough water to come a third
While plowing about in my cook- of the way up the sides of the con-
book collection for the best-eating but tainer. Cover the kettle tightly; bring
not-too-onerous-to-make plum pud- to the simmer, and let steam about 6
ding, I found what I was looking for hours. Warning: Check the kettle now
in the facsimile of the 1861 edition of and then to be sure the water hasn't
Mrs. Beeton's Boak of Household boiled off!
Management (New York: Farrar
Straus and Giroux). That remarkable When is it done? When it is a dark
culinary bible called for the tradi- walnut-brown color and fairly firm to
tional English trappings of suet, the touch.
pudding cloth, pudding basin, and a ...
boiling session. I have taken the lib- Curing and storing. Let the pudding
erty of substituting butter for suet, cool in its container. Store it in a cool
and a covered bowl and steamer for wine cellar, or in the refrigerator.
the pudding cloth and basin. Other-
wise Isabella's recipe was the sole in- *Ahead-of-time note: It will keep
spiration for this modern American nicely for several months.
A food processor is useful for making the
version, and I think it's one of the bread crumbs and chopping the raisins;
better Christmas puddings-so good Resteaming. A good 2 hours before
an 8-cup pudding container, such as a
in fact, that I would gladly eat it of a you plan to serve, resteam the pud-
round-bottomed metal mixing bowl; a
cool mid-summer evening. ding-it must be quite warm indeed
cover for the bowl; a steamer basket or
for successful flaming. Unmold onto
trivet; a roomy soup kettle with tight-
For about 6 cups baked in an 8 -cup a hot serving platter and decorate, if
fitting cover to hold bowl, cover, and
mold, serving 12 or more you wish, with sprigs of holly.
basket
The pudding mixture Flaming and serving. Pour the hof
TIMING NOTE. Like a good fruitcake, a
3 cups (lightly packed down) crumbs rum or whiskey around the pudding.
plum pudding develops its full flavor
from homemade type white Either ignite it in the kitchen and
when made at least a week ahead.
bread-a ½-pound loaf, crust on, rapidly bring it forth, or flame it at
C aunt on 6 hours for the initial, almost
will do it the table . Serve the following Za-
unattended steaming, and 2 hours to re-
1 cup each: black raisins, yellow baione Sauce separately.
heat before serving.
raisins, and currants, chopped
1% cups sugar The pudding mixture. Toss the bread
½ tsp each: cinnamon, mace, and
crumbs in a large mixing bowl with
nutmeg-more if needed
the raisins, sugar, and spices. Then
8 ounces (2 sticks) butter, melted
toss with the melted butter, and fi-
4 "large" eggs, lightly beaten
nally with the rest of the ingredients,
A few drops of almond extract
except, of course, the holly and Za-
½ cup bitter orange marmalade
baione Sauce. Taste carefully for sea-
½ cup rum or bourbon whiskey, soning, adding more spices if
heated before serving needed.
Sprigs of holly, optional
2 cups Zabaione Sauce (see Special Steaming-about 6 hours. Pack the
Note on next page) pudding mixture into the container;
cover with a round of wax paper and
The Immense Fruit Bowl

SPECIAL NOTE
A beautiful finish to any meal is a

lush collection of ripe, colorful fresh Zabaione Sauce
fruits, all cut up, flavored, and ready
to eat. Your selection will depend on A foamy sauce for puddings and
what's available, and out of season warm fruit desserts.
don't hesitate to include canned figs
·and plums along with whatever fresh For about 2 cups
fruits are on hand. Here is our selec- 1 "large" egg
tion for the big bowl illustrated. 2 egg yolks
A small pinch of salt
For a dozen or more servings 1/3 cup rum or bourbon whiskey ( or
The fruits we used Marsala or sherry)

1/3 cup dry white French vermouth
1 fresh ripe fragrant pineapple, cut
½ cup sugar
into thin wedges
2 pink or white grapefruit, cut.into
Whisk all the ingredients together
skinless segments
for 1 minute in a stainless saucepan.
2 or 3 navel oranges, peel cut off to Macerating the fruits-I hour before
Then whisk over moderately low heat
expose flesh, oranges sliced thin serving. Fold the fruits in their bowl
for 4 to 5 minutes, until the sauce be-
crosswise with ½ cup of sugar, and ¼ cup
comes thick, foamy, and warm to
1 pint strawberries, stemmed and each of lemon and lime juice. Refrig-
your finger-do not bring it to the
halved or quartered lengthwise erate, folding gently several times,
simmer and scramble the eggs, but
2 or 3 ripe peaches, peeled and sliced and adding more flavors if you thi.nk
you must heat it enough for it to
1 cup each seedless red and green them needed.
thicken. Serve warm or cold.
grapes
1 medium cantaloupe, cut into balls *Ahead-of-time note: Although the
3 or 4 ripe kiwis, peeled and sliced fruits will hold longer than an hour,
*Ahead-of-time note: The sauce will
remain foamy for 2 0 to 3 0 minutes,
crosswise they are at their best when served
and if it separates simply beat it
Flavoring briefly over heat. If you wish to re-
½ cup sugar, or to taste foam the sauce, whisk in a stiffiy
¼ cup or more freshly squeezed beaten egg white.
lemon juice
OTHER DESSERTS IN
¼ cup or more freshly squeezed lime
OTHER PLACES
juice
Accompaniments: cookies such as
the almond bars (page 482),
Crepes ( pages 40 8-11)
almond or hazelnut wafers (page
483), madeleines (page 488), or a
Souffies ( pages 7 6- 7)
best-quality store-bought selection
Cream Puffs, Saint-Honores, and

others made with choux paste ( pages
399-401)
Cakes & Cookies
All About Making Sponge Cakes
and Genoises
Flavorings, Frills, and Essential

Techniques
Layer Cakes, Almond Cakes,

Sponge Sheets, Loaf Cakes
A Selection of Cookies
Cakes, more than any part of cooking you're on a chocolate binge, or cara- mulae and a variation, touch on the
it seems to me, are an assembly job. mel is on your mind, or you're subject of store-bought plain yellow
· You have several cake formulae up dreaming of a great fluffy cloud of cakes-which can be very good-
your ample sleeve, plus a number of meringue. This chapter hopes to sat- then delve into frostings and fillings
fillings, frostings, flavorings, and isfy those cravings by giving a small before going into two splendid layer
decorative frills; put them together as but select choice, since cakes abound cakes. Three almond cakes and a jelly
occasions arise and you can concoct a in my other books. roll precede two loaf cakes and a ten-
different cake every time. Perhaps We start with two basic cake for- fold cookie finish .
TWO ALL-PURPOSE 5 M ASTER RECIPE The egg yolks and sugar. Start beating
YELLOW CAKES the egg yolks in the mixing bowl,
To Make the and gradually beat in the sugar by
Spongecake Batter
A
tablespoons; continue for several
butter spongecake, or biscuit For cakes, petits fours, and sponge sheets minutes, until the mixture is thick,
au beurre, the kind where pale yellow, and forms the ribbon.
beaten egg whites are folded into the For a 4-cup pan, such as an 8-inch Beat in the vanilla.
batter, is one of the two standard round or square one; or an 11- by 1 7-
cakes for frosting and filling. For the inch sponge sheet Beating the egg whites. Beat the egg
second cake, the genoise, whole eggs The batter base whites separately, starting at slow'
are beaten into a creamy foam and speed, until they foam throughout.
3 egg yolks
then combined with the other ingre- Add the salt and cream of tartar, and
½ cup sugar
dients; it is a little drier in texture continue until soft peaks are formed;
1 ½ tsp pure vanilla extract
and a bit trickier to make. The two sprinkle in the sugar and beat to stiff
are interchangeable for most pur- The egg whites peaks.
poses, but both should be in any good 3 egg whites
cook's repertoire since their special A pinch of salt Finishing the batter. At once stir a
techniques are part of one's essential A scant ¼ tsp cream of tartar quarter of the egg whites into the egg
culinary baggage. 1½ Tbs additional sugar yolks and sugar, to lighten the mix-
ture . Rapidly plop a third of the re-
Completing the batter maining whites on top, and sift on a
1/3 cup plus ¼ cup (9 Tbs total) plain quarter of the flour. Delicately and
SPONGECAKE: bleached cake flour, scooped and rapidly fold them together, and when
PATE A BISCUIT leveled into a sifter set over wax almost blended repeat the sequence
paper with a third of the remaining egg
In many ways you can think of a 3 Tbs tepid melted butter whites and a third of the remaining
spongecake as a noncollapsible souf- flour, then half of each, and when
fle. You make a base of beaten egg you have almost blended the last of
A 3 -quart mixing bowl; a wire whisk
yolks and sugar, then you fold in each, add and fold in the tepid
or portable mixer; a clean dry bowl and
stiffiy beaten egg whites alternating melted butter-do not overblend or
beater for the egg whites; a large rubber
with sprinkles of flour. For the souf- you will deflate the batter. Proceed at
spatula
fle there is only enough flour to hold once to the baking, either in a cake
the egg-white bubbles in a magnifi- pan as described here , or as the
MANUFACTURING NOTES. If you need
cent puff while the souffie is warm- sponge sheet on page 4 77 .
more details on measuring flour, beating
then plop! But for a cake there is suf- egg yolks and sugar, beating egg whites
ficient flour so that when the egg- and folding them into a batter, see pages
white bubbles puff in the oven, the 461 and 463.
flour coagulates around them and the
puff stays put. Thus when you have Preliminaries. Preheat the oven, pre-
mastered the one, you are automati- pare the pan (see Special Note on the
cally master of the other. opposite page), and measure out all
the ingredients listed so that you can
go right through the motions without
stopping.
JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK CAKES & COOKIES 45 7
To Bake a Round or right side up and let it cool com-

Square Cake pletely-an hour or more. It is now
ready for filling and icing.
The oven has been preheated to
3 5 0°F, with the rack in the lower *Ahead-of-time note: If you are baking
middle level. An 8-inch round or the cake well in advance, slip it into
square cake pan, bottom lined with an airtight plastic bag when thor-
wax paper, has been buttered and oughly cool. Refrigerate it for 2 to 3
floured (see Special Note on this days, or you may freeze it for several
page), and a cake rack is at hand. weeks.
2. Drawing cake from edges of pan
The preceding spongecake batter has
just been completed.
When is it done? It is almost done
SPECIAL NOTE
Into the cake pan. Immediately pour when its puff starts to sink very
and scoop the batter into the prepared slightly. Gently press the top, which
should be springy; the sides should
To Prepare a Cake Pan
Buttered, floured, and lined with wax
show a faint line of shrinkage from paper
the edges of the pan. It is definitely
done when you can gently pull it Whatever size or shape your cake
from the sides of the pan, as shown pan, from round to square to jelly-
in step 2. roll, and whether or not it is no-
stick, prepare it as follows.
Cooling and unmolding. Remove the
cake pan from the oven and set it on First, smear the baking surface (bot-
a rack to cool for 15 to 20 minutes . tom and sides) lightly but evenly
Run a small sharp knife between the with soft butter. If the bottom is to be
I. Pouring batter into prepared pan cake and against the edge of the pan lined with wax paper, cut a sheet to
all around to be sure the cake is fit it exactly and press it in place,
loose. Then set the rack over the pan then butter the paper. Finally pour in
cake pan, which it should fill to and reverse the two, giving a gentle a half cup or so of all-purpose flour,
within ¼ inch of the rim (see illus- but sharp shake to dislodge the cake shake and turn the pan in all direc-
tration, step 1). If by chance you from the pan onto the rack as illus- tions to film the bottom and sides
have too much batter, scoop it out to
completely, then bang the pan upside
prevent a possible overflow, or a top
down over the sink to dislodge excess
with an overhanging ridge. Tilt the
flour. If by chance the kitchen is hot ,
pan in all directions to run the batter
refrigerate the pan until you are
up to the rim all around, thus dis-
ready to fill it.
couraging a humped-up center. Bang
the pan once lightly on your work
surface to deflate any big bubbles,
and set the pan at once in the pre-
heated oven. (A square pan is filled
in exactly the same way.)
3 . Cake turned out onto rack-don't worry if bot-
Baking-25 to 30 minutes at 350°F. tom surface is rough as shown
The cake will slowly rise a little
above the rim and will begin to
trated, step 3. If the wax paper has
brown.
adhered, neatly peel it off the bottom
of the cake. Carefully turn the cake
VARIATION The egg whites, and finishing the batter. ½ cup plus 1/3 cup plain bleached
In a clean, dry separate bowl, beat cake flour (scooped and leveled),
Orange-Almond the egg whites to soft peaks with the set over a sheet of wax paper
Spongecake Batter salt and tartar, sprinkle in the sugar, 1 Tbs sugar
and continue beating to stiff, shining ¼ tsp salt
An orange and almond flavoring peaks. Stir a quarter of the egg 6 Tbs unsalted butter
makes a delightful plain cake or cup whites into the batter; delicately fold 4 "large" eggs-a generous 314 cup of
cakes, sen;ed just with a powdering in the rest. eggs
of confectioners sugar. Or use it for ½ cup sugar
jelly rolls or filled cakes. You will Forming and baking. Immediately 1 tsp pure vanilla extract
note that folding in the egg whites is · proceed to the baking, in either a
easier here, since orange juice softens round or a square pan as previously SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
the base. described, or as the sponge sheet on A 6-cup cake pan, bottom lined with
page 477. wax paper, buttered, and floured (see
For an 8 -inch round or square cake, or Special Note, page 457 ); a 3-quart
a sponge sheet stainless bowl and a saucepan of almost
simmering water to hold it; a balloon
The batter base
5 MASTER RECIPE whip or portable electric mixer; an elec-
3 egg yolks tric mixer on a stand-please see an
½ cup sugar Genoise Cake Batter: important note on bowl shapes ( page
The grated rind of 1 medium orange
Pate a Genoise 461); a flour sifter
and ¼ to % cup of its strained
Especially recommended for layer cakes
juice and petits fours Preliminaries. Preheat the oven to
¾ cup blanched almonds pulverized 3 5 0°F and place the rack in the
in a blender with 3 Tbs sugar The genoise or whole-egg technique middle level. Sift the flour with the
¼ tsp almond extract is quite different from the separated tablespoon of sugar and the salt onto
½ cup plain bleached cake flour in a eggs of the spongecake, in that here the wax paper and return to the sifter.
sifter (scooped and leveled) you beat whole eggs and sugar over Melt the butter; remove ¼ cup of
The egg whites warm water until they have swelled to the clear yellow liquid and reserve,
a fine warm yellow foam-exactly leaving the milky residue behind. Set
3 egg whites
like a zabaione but minus the wine out the rest of the ingredients and
A pinch of salt
flavoring. You then beat until the equipment listed.
A scant ¼ tsp cream of tartar
eggs are cool, thick, and form a fat
1 Tbs sugar
ribbon when dropped off the beater.
Finally in goes the flour and lastly the
The batter base. Beat the egg yolks in
butter-all without deflating the egg
a mixing bowl, gradually sprinkling
volume. It's not a tricky batter, but it
in the sugar. When thick and pale
is exacting; when you feel comfort-
yellow, beat in the orange rind and
able with it, you have mastered some
juice, the pulverized almonds, and
of the prime culinary techniques.
the almond extract. Slowly sift and
beat in the flour. MANUFACTURING NOTES. If you need
more details on measuring flour see page
3 80, beating eggs and sugar see page I . Whisking the eggs over hot water to thicken
461, ;,_nd folding flour into a batter see
page 459.
Beating eggs and sugar. Blend the
For a 6-cup pan, such as a round one 9 eggs, ½ cup of sugar, and vanilla in
by 1 ½ inches, or an 8 - by 2-inch the stainless bowl, and set it in the
pan of almost simmering water. Start
square pan
JULIA CHILD THEW A Y TO COOK CAKES & COOKIES 459
FLAVORINGS, FRILLS,
AND SOME ESSENTIAL
TECHNIQUES
S uch everyday essentials as how

to beat egg whites, make me-
ringue, melt chocolate, as well as the
best way to fill a pastry bag, slice a
2. Eggs and sugar form the ribbon. 4. Blending gob of batter into cool melted butter cake in half, and so forth, are always
with us. Since it is cumbersome and
boring to repeat them every time
beating as illustrated, step 1, and folding: the batter must retain its they come up, I am giving detailed
continue until the eggs feel warm to volume. directions here, and shorthand re-
your finger and have thickened-4 to minders in the recipes themselves,
5 minutes. Remove the bowl from The butter, and completing the batter. referring to these pages if you need
the water and either continue beating The butter should be cool but liquid. the details.
by hand or transfer the eggs to a Plop a large blob of the egg-flour
mixer. Beat at moderately fast speed batter into it; fold it in rapidly and
until the mixture has tripled in vol- gently, step 4, then fold the butter/
ume, is cool, and forms a fat ribbon batter mixture rapidly into the eggs Imbibing Syrup
when some is lifted and dropped back and flour. (This clever technique Liqueur flavoring for layer cakes
into the bowl as illustrated, step 2- keeps the butter in suspension; other-
8 to 10 minutes. wise it tends to sink to the bottom of Every cake benefits from a sprin-
the cake pan.) kling of liqueur syrup that sinks into
the layers and gives a pleasant moist-
Baking-30 to 35 minutes at 350°F. ness and subtle extra flavor as you
Following the preceding directions bite through the filling and into the
for spongecake, immediately turn the body of the cake.
batter into the prepared pan and bake
until the cake has puffed, browned, For about 1 cup, enough for 2 or 3 cake
and shows a faint line of shrinkage layers, 8 - to 9-inch size
from the sides of the pan.
1/3 cup hot water
¼ cup sugar in a 2-cup measure
Cooling, unmolding, and storing. Let
½ cup cold water
3. Sifting on and folding in the flour cool 20 minutes, then unmold, as de-
3 to 4 Tbs white rum, orange
scribed for the spongecake.
liqueur, or other spirits; or 1 Tbs
Folding in the flour. Immediately sift a pure vanilla extract
quarter of the flour over the egg mix-
ture, and fold it in rapidly with a Stir the hot water into the sugar, and
large rubber spatula, rotating the when the sugar has dissolved com-
bowl and scooping the egg up over pletely, stir in the cold water, then the
the flour, step 3. When almost rum or other flavoring. To use,
blended, rapidly fold in a third of the sprinkle a third to half of the syrup
remaining flour, repeat with half of over the cut half of each layer.
what remains, then the last of the
flour. Aim to deflate the egg volume
as little as possible-don't overdo the
To Slice a Cake into cookie pushers offered in many cook-

Two Layers ware departments; get yourself
professional equipment-look under
You will note that the layer cakes in Cake Decorating in the yellow pages.
this section are made from one cake Ask for a flexible vinyl bag 16 inches
1½ to 2 inches high, cut in two or long, and an assortment of tubes
three horizontal layers-the usual from round to flat to fluted.
system for French cakes. However,
you may, of course, use 2 cakes and
have a towering 4 layers.
3. Scraping the filling down toward the tip
Lay the filled bag on your work sur-

face, and push the filling tightly
down into it, using a pastry scraper,
step 3. Twist the top of the bag with
one hand to keep steady pressure on
I . Inserting metal tube into bag
Insert the tube of your choice inside

Slicing a cake into 2 laye rs
the bag, pushing the tip through the
hole at the small end for a snug fit as
First cut a shallow vertical wedge illustrated, step 1. To fill the bag eas-
somewhere in the circumference of ily, fold the tube end up against the
the cake; then you will know how to bag to prevent the filling from ooz-
line up the layers for re-forming. ing out, then set the bag tube end
4. The way to hold the bag

Place the middle of a long thin
knife-I'm using a serrated ham
slicer-evenly one third or halfway
up the cake, and rotate the cake
against it as you slice (see illustra-
tion); aiming your eye at the tip end
of the knife seems to help in keeping
the layers even.
2. Filling the bag

The Right Way to Use a
5. Squeezing out the filling
Pastry Bag down in a 2-cup measure, and drape
the sides around the outside of the
A pastry bag has many uses-from cup. Scoop in the filling with a rub- the filling as you squeeze, step 4.
forming rosettes, swags, and swirls ber spatula, step 2. Squeeze out the shape, step 5, and, at
on a cake frosting to making cream the end, stop pressure, rotate the bag
puffs, mashed potato borders, and and tube tip sharply, and raise it up.
filling hard-boiled eggs. Don't waste (Practice first, scoop the practice
your time with the foolish little back into the bag, and go to it.)
JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK CAKES & COOKIES 461
EGG-BEATING that the sugar has dissolved. Remove

TECHNIQUES the bowl from heat and continue
beating either by hand or in a mixer
Egg beating, whether it be egg on a stand for 8 to 10 minutes more
whites, or whole eggs, is one of the
. '
until the eggs are cool and form a
keys to success in making cakes and thick, slowly dissolving ribbon.
souffies because it is the egg that
gives the puff. Egg yolks, too, have
their special requirements so that they
SPECIAL N OTE
remain smooth and creamy.
Eggs and sugar forming the familiar ribbon
Beating Egg Yolks and
Sugar a Faster Way
To Beat Whole Eggs
and Sugar Beating the yolks and sugar for a
genoise cake can be simplified if you
Whole eggs and sugar beaten to a have a heavy-duty mixer with hot-
beautiful foamy yellow cream are the water jack that attaches to the bowl.
base for genoise cakes, zabaione Fill the jack with boiling water, re-
sauce, and other sweet delights. They plenishing as necessary while you
triple in volume, and fall from the beat until the warm eggs form the
beater in a thick, slowly dissolving ribbon; empty out the jack, fill with
For successful beating, the whole egg mass must be ribbon. Norwegian cooks judge them ice cubes and water, and continue
in motion at once, thus the right size whip for the
to be just right when they dribble the beating until cool.
bowl you are using is critical. The giant whip and
copper bowl, at left , are ideal for hand beating , and name "OLE" off the wires of the
the highly efficient heavy-duty mixer, at right, for beater and the "O" is still standing on
machine beating.
the surface as the "E" is completed.
To Beat Egg Yolks It is most important here that your

To Beat Egg Whites into
beating equipment be perfectly clean,
and Sugar Stiff Shining Peaks
since oil or grease can prevent the
"Forming the ribbon"
eggs from mounting. You may use a
Stiffly beaten egg whites have mul-
copper bowl and giant balloon whip
"Beat the egg yolks in a bowl, adding tiple uses, from spongecakes to float-
or a stainless bowl that is round bot-
the sugar by tablespoons , and con- ing island to souffies. Again the bowl
tomed and narrow rather than wide·
tinue beating for several minutes un- and beater are of great importance.
in either case the whole mass of egg'
til the mixture is thick, pale yellow, They must be clean , with no trace of
should be in motion at once as you
and when a bit falls from the wires of oil or grease, and not even a speck of
beat.
the beater it forms a ribbon that egg yolk should be among the whites
slowly dissolves on the surface, as il- since oil, grease , and yolk prevent
Blend the eggs and sugar in the
lustrated." The sugar is added slowly the whites from mounting into a mass
bowl, then set the bowl in a pan of
because too much at once can cause of tiny bubbles.
almost simmering water and beat
the yolks to speckle. You beat long
with a balloon whip or hand-held
enough to dissolve the sugar-it's Whether or not you are using a cop-
electric mixer, circulating the mixer
dissolved when the mixture forms the per bowl , it's a good idea to pour a
about the bowl as though it were a
ribbon. Recipe shorthand will simply tablespoon of vinegar into the bowl
whip. Beat until the eggs are warm to
direct you to beat the yolks and sugar and a teaspoon of salt. Rub the bowl
your finger and foaming through-
until they are thick, pale yellow, and clean with paper towels, but do not
out-4 to 5 minutes; this indicates
form the ribbon. wash it-the traces of vinegar and
salt help stabilize the egg whites.
462 JULIA CHILD THE WA y TO COOK
Beating Egg Whites (continued) Overbeating. Egg whites will not per-
form as they should when they lose
Turn the egg whites into the bowl their smooth sheen and begin to look
and if they are chilled, set the bowl grainy. You can usually reconstitute
in a larger bowl of warm water for a them by adding another egg white
minute or two, until your impeccably and beating briefly until they are
clean finger feels them to be of room smoothly reconstituted.
temperature. Chilled whites do not
mount well, and tend to fleck.
VARIATION M ering ue egg whites in stiff upstanding shining

Using a giant balloon whip, or a
peaks
hand-held electric mixer, or a mixer
on a stand, start beating the egg
Italian Meringue
White mountain frosting: boiled icing
whites at moderately slow speed until The egg whites. Following detailed di-
they are foaming throughout-2 rections in the preceding recipe, beat
Italian meringue is beaten egg whites
minutes or so. Add a pinch of salt the egg whites at slow speed until
into which boiling sugar syrup is in-
(unless you have rubbed the bowl they foam throughout, add the salt
corporated; this stabilizes the whites
with salt before you started in), and and cream of tartar, gradually in-
so you may use the meringue as a
for 4 egg whites, add ¼ teaspoon of crease speed to fast, and beat to soft
cake frosting. It is wonderfully use-
cream of tartar-a stabilizer. Gradu- peaks, as illustrated . Turn the ma-
ful since besides being a frosting, it
ally increase the speed to fast (moder- chine to slow as you complete the
may be combined with whipped but-
at~ly fast if you have a heavy-duty sugar syrup.
ter for a cake filling or with heavy
mixer) and continue until stiff shin-
cream for vanilla ice cream or
ing peaks are formed. ' ' The sugar syrup. Following detailed
again, you may form and bake it as
directions on page 42 1, bring the
meringues. The Buche de Noel on
Adding sugar. In most dessert and sugar and water to the simmer, swirl
page 4 78, for instance, uses Italian
cake recipes a tablespoon or more of the pan to dissolve the sugar com-
meringue not only for frosting and
sugar is beaten in at the point where pletely, cover tightly, and boil to the
filling, but for baked meringue deco-
the egg whites form soft peaks; they soft-ball stage.
rations as well.
a~e then beaten to stiff peaks. Sugar
stiffens and stabilizes the whites. Sugar syrup into egg whites. Beating
For frosting a 9-inch cake
the egg whites at moderately slow
The egg whites speed , dribble into them the boiling
213 cup egg whites ( 4 to 5 egg whites) syrup-trying to avoid the wires of
A pinch of salt the whip. Increase speed to moder-
¼ tsp cream of tartar ately fast and beat until cool and the
egg whites form stiff, shining, up-
The sugar syrup standing peaks. The meringue is now
l 1/3 cups sugar ready to use as your recipe directs.
½ cup water
*Ahead-of-time note: It is best to use
the meringue within an hour; it re-
Perfectly beaten egg whites
A clean dry bowl and beater for the egg mains stable on a cake but may thin
whites; a heavy 8 -cup saucepan with out with reheating.
tight-fitting cover, and a 4-cup measure
with 2 cups cold water for the sugar
syrup; an electric mixer on a stand
VARIATIONS Chocolate Meringue Filling whites to the bottom of the pan, as il-
or Frosting lustrated. Rapidly bring the spatula
Here are some of the ways to use an to the near edge of the pan, and ro-
Italian meringue for fillings and tate it so its fl.at side brings some of
Beat 2 ounces (½ stick) of softened
frostings. In the interests of discre- the batter up over the egg whites.
unsalted butter in a bowl until soft
tion if not gastronomy, I am leaving and fluffy, fold in 2 cups of Italian Rotate the pan slightly, and rapidly
the proportions of butter or cream to meringue, 4 ounces of tepid smoothly repeat the plunging-scooping turn of
meringue up to you-in other melted chocolate, and 2 tablespoons the spatula 7 to 8 times, until the egg
words, you may use less than of dark rum. Enough to frost a 9- whites and batter are blended-do
indicated. inch cake or a roulade (jelly roll). not overblend or you will deflate the
egg whites.
Meringue Butter-Cream Folding: To Fold Egg Whites

Filling into a Cake Batter, etc. TO MELT CHOCOLATE
Beat 4 ounces (1 stick) of softened You can beat your egg whites to per- Chocolate can be a complicated sub-
unsalted butter in a bowl until soft fection, but unless you fold them ject when you are making candies or
and fluffy, fold in 1 to 1½ cups of rapidly and expertly into your cake or chocolate coverings that must be ut-
Italian meringue, and season with 1 souffie batter, you will deflate them terly professional, clear, and shining.
tablespoon of white rum or 2 tea- and neither your cake nor your souf- Fortunately we are not going into
spoons of pure vanilla extract. fle will rise to its proper height. such mysteries here-the main con-
Enough to fill a 2-layer 9-inch cake. Here's how: cern is that the chocolate be smoothly
melted, and that means not overheat-
ing it. Overheating will cause it to
seize, to turn hard and grainy; it will
Meringue Cream Filling melt smoothly at around 100°F. I
and Frosting know that some cooks swear by the
microwave, but I prefer the follow-
Fold 2 cups of whipped cream into 2 ing simple and straightforward sys-
cups of Italian meringue, and flavor tem, where I am in complete control.
with 1 tablespoon of white rum or 2
teaspoons of pure vanilla extract.
Enough to fill and frost a roulade
(jelly roll). Spatula plunging in, to bring batter up over egg
whites
Have your cake or souffie batter in a

roomy pan or bowl. Stir a quarter of
the egg whites into the batter to
loosen it-an important point, since
if the batter is stiff you will deflate
the egg whites as you attempt to
blend them. Then turn the rest of the
egg whites on top . Plunge a large
rubber spatula sideways, like a knife,
down through the center of the egg
To Melt Chocolate with set it in the hot water. In 5 minutes Baker's Tools
Liquid Flavoring the chocolate should be smoothly
melted-if not, reheat the water in The right equipment always makes a
Most of the recipes in this book call the larger pan to below the simmer, job easier. Except for the serrated
for chocolate melted in a small remove from heat, return the choco- ham slicing knife, which you will
amount of liquid flavoring, such as late pan to it, and stir until the choco- find in a fine cutlery store, the rest of
coffee or rum. The minimum late is smooth and glistening. the items will be in a pastry supply
amount of liquid is 1 tablespoon per store-look under Cake Decorating
2 ounces of chocolate-you can add in the yellow pages.
more but not less or the chocolate
will stiffen. To Melt Plain Chocolate
For 1 ¼ cups For small amounts , up to about 8

ounces, break up the chocolate in a
8 ounces sweet or semisweet perfectly dry pan and use the forego-
chocolate; or 6 ounces sweet ing system (but with no liquid) . For
chocolate and 2 ounces bitter or large amounts, place the covered
unsweetened chocolate chocolate pan in a 100°F oven, where
¼ cup rum or strong coffee it will be melted and smooth in 20 to
30 minutes.
Revolving stand to hold cake while decorating
Remedy for stiffened chocolate. If you
have overheated your chocolate and it
has seized and stiffened, you can
o:ten smooth it out by beating in a
-
little water, setting the pan in hot
water, and stirring it about. It will
JJJ .I ( ((
usually not smooth out enough to be-
come a frosting, but will often be
suitable for use in cakes or puddings.
Melting chocolate slowly in a covered pan set over
hot water
Serrated ham knife with 12-inch blade for slicing

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: Other Techniques Elsewhere cake into layers
A 2-cup moderately heavy saucepan
with tight-fitting lid; a larger saucepan Sugar syrups and caramel ( page
or frying pan to hold it 421 ), and caramel sauce ( page 420)
Break up the chocolate into the 2-cup Apricot Glaze and Red Currant
pan and add the rum or coffee. Pour Glaze (see Special Notes, pages 427
2 to 3 inches of water into the larger and 437)
pan and bring to the simmer. Re-
move from heat, let cool 15 seconds, To whip cream (page 440)
cover the chocolate pan tightly, and
Royal icing: glace royale ( page 487)
Large balloon whip and small whisk
SPONGE AND GENOISE CAKE TALK. An 8- to 9-inch cake 2

LAYER CAKES inches thick would furnish 3 layers, or
make 2 sponge or genoise cakes I½
H
inches thick, slice each in half and freeze
ere are two layer cakes. the fourth halffor petits fours or trifle.
One is an informal sponge- Slicing a cake into layers is illustrated
cake with apricot filling and white on page 460.
mountain icing, and the other, a very
dressy genoise walled in chocolate, Ingredients for an 8- to 9-inch cake,
filled and frosted with real French serving 8 to 12
Cardboard rounds in various sizes to hold cakes
while decorating butter cream, and decorated with a
The apricot filling
chocolate bow. You don't have to
make the basic cakes yourself-:--al- 3 cans, 17 ounces each, unpeeled
though you never need admit it- apricot halves
since a good store-bought yellow cake
½ tsp cinnamon
will do nicely under such trimmings.
1/3 cup sugar
The grated zest ( yellow part only)

and strained juice of I lemon
The Santa Clara 1 cup rum-flavored imbibing syrup
Three-layer cake with apricot filling and (¼ cup sugar,¾ cup water, 3 to 4
wbite mountain frosting
Tbs white rum, page 459)
Flexible vinyl pastry bag and metal tubes The Santa Clara is a dessert cake with The white mountain icing-Italian
billowing white frosting, and al- meringue
though you can make it in the con- 213 cup egg whites ( 4 to 5 eggs)
ventional two layers, three seem more A pinch of salt
appropriate here with the moist apri- ¼ tsp cream of tartar
cot filling. 1 1/3 cups sugar
½ cup water
3 cake layers (see discussion at top

of recipe)
4 ounces ( 1 stick) softened unsalted
butter, optional
Straight-sided aluminum cake pans 2 inches deep 1 to 2 Tbs white rum
8 to 10 well-formed canned apricot
halves and their syrup
The apricot filling. Pour the contents

of the cans of apricot halves into a
sieve set over a saucepan. Let drain
thoroughly, then chop them and set
) aside. Add the butter, cinnamon, 1/3
cup of sugar, and the lemon peel and
juice to the syrup and bring to the
boil. When thick and almost syrupy,
Flexible-blade metal spatulas both bent and straight add the chopped apricots and boil
several minutes, stirring frequently,
The Santa Clara (continued) The Cambridge Cake

Genoise layer cake with mocha butter-
until they form a thick mass that cream frosting, chocolate walls, and bow
holds its shape softly in a spoon.
For this sumptuous creation, the 2-
The white mountain icing. Following inch-high cake is split in half, and
the detailed directions on page 461 , each layer is lightly imbibed with a
beat the egg whites to soft peaks. rum syrup to make a moist cake with
Turn speed to slow while you boil the delicious flavor. If you are generous ·
sugar and water to the soft-ball stage with that luscious butter cream, the
2. Frosting top of cake with meringue
( page 421 ). Immediately, while beat- slices can be less than huge-mean-
ing the egg whites at moderately slow ing you can serve more people. I'd
speed, dribble in the hot syrup; in- cake layer; cover with half of the certainly rather have the thinnest pos-
crease speed to moderately fast, and cooked apricots ( see illustration, step sible sliver of this beauty than several
continue beating 5 minutes or more, 1). Set a second layer of cake over the helpings of diet carrot cake!
until the meringue is cool and forms first and repeat with imbibing syrup,
stiff shining upstanding peaks. meringue, and apricots. Sprinkle For 10 to 12 servings
syrup over the third layer, but not
An 8- by 2-inch round yellow cake,
If using it, beat all or part of the enough to soften it, and set it in
homemade or store-bought, split
stick of butter in a bowl until soft place. Swirl meringue over the entire
in half horizontally (page 460)
and fluffy; fold in 1 cup of the Italian cake, step 2.
Imbibing syrup(¼ cup sugar,¾ cup
meringue frosting and season with
water, 3 Tbs dark Jamaican _rum,
the rum-reserve for the filling. (Or The apricot topping. Drain the apricot
page 459)
reserve 1½ cups butterless halves and set them domed side up in
3 cups butter cream (see recipe
meringue.) a lightly buttered baking pan. Boil
following)
down ½ to ½ cup of their syrup un-
til thick and syrupy and pour it over Chocolate decorations
the apricots. Set them 6 to 8 inches 4 ounces sweet chocolate
below a hot broiler. Broil, basting 1 ounce unsweetened chocolate
them several times with the syrup,
for 5 minutes; set aside. When cool, SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
arrange them on top of the ~ake. See the baker's tools illustrated on page
Cover the cake with an upside-down 464 .
bowl and refrigerate until serving
time.
I . Half the apricots going over the meringue *Ahead-of-time note: Will keep nicely
filling for several hours in the refrigerator.
Filling and frosting the cake. Center

one cake layer on strips of wax paper
arranged on your serving platter-
they will be pulled out after frosting.
Dribble several spoonfuls of the im-
bibing syrup onto the cake. Spread
half of the meringue icing over the
3. Spreading thin preliminary frosting on sides
Preliminary frosting. Brush crumbs

off the outside of the cake. Plop ¼
cup of butter cream on top of the
cake. Spread it thinly over the top
and sides, step 3-this seals down the
crumbs and keeps the final frosting
clean and smooth. (Clean off your
spatula after using it here, for the
same reason.)
I . Spooning imbibing syrup over cake layer 2. Lining up the cake layer with the wedge 4. Frosting top and sides
Imbibing the cake layers. Set the bot- Re-forming the cake. Remove 1½ Final wat of butter cream. Spread ½
tom cake layer cut side up on a card- cups of the butter cream and reserve cup of the reserved butter cream
board cutout or on your upturned it for the final decoration. Spread around the sides with the bent spat-
cake pan. Turn the top layer cut side about ½ cup of the butter cream over ula, step 4, and 1 cup smoothly over
up, as shown. Spoon driblets of the bottom layer-a large bent spat- the top with the straight spatula.
syrup over both layers, as illustrated, ula is useful here. Carefully lift the
step 1-not too generous on the top, top layer and arrange it over the bot- Interim refrigeration. Refrigerate the
or you may soften it too much for re- tom, lining it up with the wedge, cake, uncovered, while you prepare
forming the cake! step 2. the chocolate for the next step.
(continued)
walled in chocolate, changed my

mind forever more. Needless to say,
this is hardly diet food-it's binge
indulgence of the most exquisite sort.
Remember, however, that you can
have a completely fat-free, yolk-free
icing on the preceding Santa Clara
Cake, with the Italian meringue.
MANUFACTURING NOTE. Another but-

5. Almost-set chocolate strip trimmed 7. Making rosettes of butter cream
ter-cream version is that made with
Italian meringue, described for the
Final decorations. Make chocolate
The Cambridge Cake (continued) Buche de Noel on page 478. Still an-
strips and a bow with leftover choco- other method is to beat softened butter
Preparing the chocolate strips. Break late. Chill the remaining butter into a cool custard sauce, creme an-
the chocolate into a small, tightly cream until it is stiff enough to push glaise. The follo w ing method is the most
covered pan set in hot water. When through a pastry bag fitted with a star stable, that of beating boiling sugar
melted, in about 5 minutes, stir until tube. Finish off the cake with rosettes syrup into eggs, and then adding the
smooth and cool. Spread 2 strips, of butter cream, step 7. butter.
3½ by 30 inches and 1/s inch thick,
on wax paper. Chill. When almost Storing and serving. Transfer the cake For about 3 cups
set, cut through the chocolate and pa- to a platter, cover with an upturned
bowl, and refrigerate until serving The sugar syrup
per to make two 2- by 27-inch strips,
step 5. time . Remove from the refrigerator 1 ½ cups sugar
10 mirrntes before serving, and cut it ½ cup water
with a knife dipped in hot water.
The eggs
*Ahead-of-time note: The cake will 2 "large" eggs

keep under refrigeration for a day or 6 egg yolks
two. 1 pound unsalted softened butter,
plus more, if needed
2 tsp pure vanilla extract
The flavoring: 2 to 3 Tbs rum,
French Butter-Cream kirsch, or orange liqueur; or 2 to 4
Filling and Frosting ounces melted chocolate; or
6. Applying chocolate strip still attached to wax pa-
per backing
mocha flavoring (2 ounces
This is the ambrosial filling for cakes unsweetened baking chocolate,
and petits fours. I so well remember smoothly melted with 2 Tbs
Applying the chocolate wall. Chill the my first taste. It was when we arrived instant coffee and 3 Tbs dark
strips a few moments, until set. in France after World War II, and I rum)
Meanwhile, remove the cake from had been used to our native commer-
the refrigerator so that the frosting cial frostings made of vegetable
will soften slightly. Carefully lift a shortening and confectioners sugar-
strip of paper with chocolate, press it I didn't like cakes, then, and no won-
around the side of the cake, and peel der. But a little petit four, filled and
off the paper-don't touch the choco- frosted with mocha butter cream and
late or you'll leave finger marks. Ap-
ply the second strip, step 6, and glue
the overlaps with a little butter
cream.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: Beating until cool. Remove from heat TWO FAMOUS ALMOND
A 4-cup saucepan with tight-fitting and beat either by hand or in an elec- CAKES
cover for the syrup; a stainless bowl tric mixer until cool-5 minutes or
(such as that for your electric mixer) more.
and a pan of simmering water to hold
it; a large balloon whip or hand-held
The Genoa and the
electric mixer; a mixer on a stand is
Queen of Sheba
useful
The Genoa, or Pain de Genes, is a

The sugar syrup. Following detailed
white almond cake, so good in itself
directions on page 421, bring the
that it needs no filling and frosting.
sugar and water to the simmer, swirl
The Queen of Sheba, or Reine de
the pan to dissolve the sugar com-
Saba, usually becomes the favorite
pletely, cover tightly, and boil to the
chocolate cake of anyone who tastes
soft-ball stage. Meanwhile break the
it, and I must admit to having aver-
eggs and yolks into the stainless Beati ng creamed butter into eggs
sion in at least two of my books. This
bowl, and whip briefly to blend yolks
third version is on our video cas-
and whites.
The butter and flavoring. Beat the but- settes, and sports a clever chocolate-
ter in a bowl until fluffy and creamy. leaf topping.
Beating the syrup into the eggs. As soon
as it is ready, beat the hot syrup in a Then, by 2-tablespoon gobs, beat the
thin stream into the eggs and yolks, butter into the egg mixture. When
using a large whip or hand-held elec- smoothly incorporated, beat in the
vanilla and the flavoring . If the The Genoa Cake: Le Pain
tric mixer.
cream turns a little grainy or looks de Genes
separated after the flavoring goes in,
beat in a tablespoon or so of addi- This is a whole-egg cake, like the
tional softened butter. genoise, but with a difference: the
butter, rather than being melted, is
Cooling the butter cream. Beat over a first creamed-or beaten into a pom-
bowl of ice cubes and water until the made, as the French say-then com-
cream firms to easy spreading consis- bined with a little of the egg mixture
tency. It is now ready to use. before being incorporated into the
bat~er at the end. This is a useful sys-
*Ahead-of-time note: Butter cream tem when you have a relatively large
will keep several days under refriger- amount of butter, as in this recipe,
Whisking hot sugar syrup into eggs
ation, or may be frozen for several because it homogenizes with the bat-
weeks. In either case, let it come to ter rather than falling to the bottom
Beating the eggs over hot water. To room temperature, then beat to of the cake pan.
cook the egg mixture and thus insure smooth it. If it looks grainy beat in a
the safekeeping of the butter cream, spoonful or so of softened butter, and For a 6-cup pan, such as a round one 9
set the bowl in the pan of almost sim- if still grainy, beat it over hot water by J½ inches, or for 10 cup cakes
mering water and beat for 4 to 5 - to smooth and cream it.
minutes or more, until the mixture is (continued)
too hot for your finger and forms a
slowly dissolving ribbon when a bit
is lifted in the beater and dropped on
the surface.
The Genoa Cake: Le Pain de Genes The butter. Beat the butter with a
(continued) wooden spoon in the metal mixing
bowl until fluffy and creamy. Using a
¾ cup ( 4 ounces) blanched almonds rubber spatula, blend a fairly large
pulverized with 3 Tbs sugar (page dollop (about one fifth) of the eggs/
423) sugar into the butter-it should now
% cup all-purpose flour (scooped and be about the same consistency as the
leveled, page 380), in a sifter eggs/sugar.
3 "large" eggs
213 cup granulated sugar Finishing the batter. Rapidly and
2 tsp pure vanilla extract lightly start folding the almonds and
¼ tsp almond extract flour into the eggs and sugar by VARIATION
A big pinch of salt rather large sprinkles; when almost
4 ounces ( 1 stick) softened unsalted incorporated, alternate with scoops of Small Almond Cakes
butter, at room temperature the creamed butter mixture.
Optional final decoration: These make attractive tea cakes, or
confectioners sugar in a sieve Baking-about 30 minutes at 350°F. serve them with a fruit dessert, or
At once turn the batter into the pre- take them on a picnic.
pared cake pan and set in the pre-
A 9- by 1 ½-inch round cake pan, but-
heated oven. Use muffin tins with cups of ½-cup
tered and floured, bottom lined with
capacity. To prevent sticking, brush
wax paper ( page 4 5 7); an electric
When is it done? The cake is done the cups lightly with a paste of clari-
mixer with the right bowl, on a stand
when the top feels springy, and you fied butter and flour (2 Tbs melted
( page 4 61); a pan of almost simmering
can see the faintest line of shrinkage butter and 2 Tbs flour). Bake about
water to hold the bowl; a metal mixing
between the cake and the pan. Re- 15 minutes in a preheated 3 5 0°F
bowl for creaming butter
move the pan to a rack. oven, until puffed and lightly
browned. Let cool 15 minutes, then
Preliminaries. Preheat oven to 3 50°F
Unmolding. Let cool 15 minutes. unmold. Again, they develop their
and set the rack in the lower middle
Run a thin knife between cake and best flavor if held for a day or more.
level. Set out all the ingredients and
pan, unmold onto a rack, remove the Dust with confectioners sugar before
equipment listed. Fluff the almond/
wax paper, and carefully turn right servrng.
sugar mixture in a bowl to remove
side up. Let cool for an hour or so.
any lumps; sift in the flour and blend
gently together.
M aturing-2 4 hours. The cake de-
velops its full almond flavor if al-
The eggs and sugar. Following the de-
lowed to mature for at least a day.
tailed directions on page 461 , beat
Wrap airtight when cool, and
the eggs and sugar in the mixer bowl
refrigerate.
for several minutes over the almost
simmering water until foaming and
Serving. If you like, powder the top
warm to your finger. Transfer to the
with a light dusting of confectioners
mixer; add the vanilla and almond
sugar, or serve as 1s.
extracts, and salt; continue beating
for 6 to 8 minutes, until the mixture
forms a heavy ribbon and is the con-
sistency of thick mayonnaise.
The Queen of Sheba:

Reine de Saba
A chocolate almond cake
A very special cake of rum, almonds,

butter, and chocolate that is somewhat
moist in the center-it literally melts
in the mouth. This was the first
French cake I ever ate, prepared by
my French colleague, Simca, and I
have never forgotten it. Like most
French cakes, it is only an inch and a
half high, which makes it easy to
serve.
MANUFACTURING NOTE. This is the

spongecake type-separated eggs-
where beaten egg whites are folded into
the batter. You want to be sure here that
the melted chocolate is still warm and
smooth so that the egg whites can be
folded in easily.
For a 4-cup pan, such as a round one 8

by 1 ½ inches, serving 6 to 8
3 ounces sweet baking chocolate

1 ounce unsweetened chocolate
2 Tbs strong coffee
4 ounces ( 1 stick) softened unsalted
butter, at room temperature
½ cup sugar
3 egg yolks
The egg whites

3 egg whites (a scant½ cup)
¼ tsp cream of tartar
A pinch of salt SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: ents and equipment listed , and melt
2 Tbs sugar An 8 - by 1 ½-inch round cake pan, but- the chocolate ( page 464). Preheat the
tered and floured ( page 4 5 7); a 6-cup oven to 3 2 5°F.
1/3 cup blanched almonds pulverized saucepan with tight-fitting cover, and a
with 2 Tbs sugar (see Special larger pan of simmering water, for Butter, sugar, and egg yolks. Cut the
Note, page 474) melting chocolate; a 3 -quart mixing butter into pieces and cream it in the
¼ tsp almond extract bowl for the batter; a hand-held electric mixing bowl-the portable mixer is
½ cup plain bleached cake flour mixer is useful; egg-white beating equip- useful here. When soft and fluffy,
(scooped and leveled, page 380), ment (page 461) add the sugar and beat 1 minute,
in a sifter set on wax paper
then beat in the egg yolks.
Preliminaries. Preheat the oven to
3 5 0°F, and set the rack in the lower (continued)
middle level. Set out all the ingredi- I
The Queen of Sheba (continued) However, during the taping of our butter a tablespoon at a time. Beat
videocassettes in California we made over cold water until firm enough to
Egg whites. Following detailed direc- quite a number. I took two home to spread. Turn the icing on top of the
tions on page 46 1, beat the egg Massachusetts and didn't serve one of c8.ke; spread it over the top and sides.
whites until foaming throughout, them until a year later-delicious.
beat in the cream of tartar and salt,
and continue until soft peaks are Serving note. French chocolate cakes
formed. Gradually beat in the 2 are at their best when served at near MERINGUE-NUT
tablespoons of sugar and continue un- room temperature-chilled, the LAYER CAKE
til stiff shining peaks are formed. chocolate is partly congealed rather
than being softly yielding.
Finishing the batter. At once blend the
warm, smoothly melted chocolate and
the coffee into the yolk mixture, then
the almonds and almond extract. Stir
Icing and decorating the cake. You may
serve the cake simply with a dusting
Q uite a different cake from the
genoise and the spongecake is
the meringue-nut layer cake-much
of confectioners sugar, or with the easier to make than the conventional
a quarter of the egg whites into the soft chocolate icing described here cake, and an absolute marvel to eat.
chocolate to lighten it. Scoop the rest and a design of whole or shaved al- The layers are Swiss meringue-
of the whites over the chocolate and, monds on top. Or for the full treat- beaten egg whites and granulated
alternating with sprinkles of flour, ment try decorating the iced cake sugar-folded with pulverized al-
rapidly and delicately fold in the egg with chocolate leaves ( see Special monds and/or hazelnuts. You form
whites. Note on next page). the layers with a pastry bag in any
shape you wish, from round to
Baking-25 minutes at 325°F. Imme- square to rectangular to heart-shaped,
diately turn the batter into the pre- and bake them slowly about an hour.
pared pan, tilting it in all directions Soft Chocolate Icing Use any filling you wish, too. Here
to run it up to the rim all around, we have a chocolate butter cream for
and set in the preheated oven. If you are also making the chocolate- one filling layer, an amaretti butter
leaf decorations, do the leaves (recipe cream for the second layer, and rum
When is it done? The cake is done following) in advance since they butter cream for the frosting. Toasted
when it has puffed to the top of the should go onto a still-soft icing. almonds cover the sides, and shaved
pan and a toothpick plunged into the chocolate dusts the top.
cake 2 and 3 inches from the edges of For an 8-inch cake
the pan comes out clean. The center,
2 ounces sweet chocolate
however, should move slightly when
1 ounce unsweetened chocolate
the pan is gently shaken. (Chocolate
1 ½ Tbs rum or strong coffee
cakes of the French type should not
A pinch of salt
be cooked dry.)
3 ounces (6 Tbs) unsalted softened
butter, at room temperature
Cooling and unmolding. Remove the
pan to the rack and let cool 15 min-
utes; unmold onto the rack. Let cool
A 6-cup saucepan with tight-fitting lid;
completely-2 hours-before stor-
a pan of almost simmering water to hold
rng or 1crng.
it, for melting chocolate
*Ahead-of-time note: May be wrapped

Following the directions on page
airtight and refrigerated for 2 to 3
46 4, melt the chocolates with the
days, or may be frozen for several
rum or coffee. When smooth and
weeks. That limit is for the safe side.
glistening, beat in the salt, then the
Historical Notes. The great

Fernand Point, reputed father of La SPECIAL NOTE VA RIATIO N
Nouvelle Cuisine, was chef-owner of
the famous Pyramide restaurant, Chocolate-Leaf Decorations Chocolate Shapes
which flourished under his leadership
pre- and just post-World War II at 2 ounces sweet chocolate Melt and spread out the chocolate in
Vienne, south of Lyons . One of his 1 ounce unsweetened chocolate the same way. When firm but not
most famous dessert cakes was Le Cocoa powder in a fine-meshed brittle cut into hearts, figu res, letters,
Marjolaine, a four-layer almond and sieve, optional numbers, etc. Paper patterns are use-
hazelnut meringue cake with ful here.
chocolate, whipped cream, and pralin
fillings. (Note for the record: The A 6-cup moderately heavy saucepan
generic French name for these cake w ith tight-fitting lid, and a large pan of
layers is fonds parisiens, but they are almost simmering water to hold it; a
also called fonds de succes or fonds de heavy flexible plastic sheet is useful here,
progres after the classic cakes, Le or wax paper
Succes and Le Progres, that contain
them.) Following the directions on page
463, melt the chocolates to smooth
and glistening. Spread a 1/16-inch
layer on the plastic sheet or wax pa-
ALMONDS AND per, step 1. Chill until set. Break the I. Spread ing melted chocolate on plastic sheet
chocolate into large irregular leaves.
HAZELNUTS
Arrange shiny side (bottom side) up
on the cake, step 2, using an instru-
Toasting nuts to a light walnut
ment so as not to leave finger-prints.
brown always gives them more flavor,
If you wish, dust the top of the cake
particularly when they are used in
with cocoa powder.
fillings and frostings. Toasting direc-
tions are in the Special Note ( page
*Ahead-of-time note: Chocolate leaves
423). Note that almonds are blanched
and decorations may be made well in
( peels removed) before toasting,
advance and stored in the
while hazelnuts need to have their
refrigerator.
skins rubbed off after toasting-
2 . Placing chocolate leaf on cake
something of a chore.
Hazelnuts vs. almonds.

Hazelnuts have a more distinctive
flavor than almonds , particularly
when toasted, as described on page
423. Sample several from every
batch you plan to buy to be sure they
are fresh. Store the nuts in the
freezer. Use either hazelnuts or
almonds, or a portion of each, in the
meringue layers .
· To Form and Bake Almond The meringue-nut mixture. Following When are they done? They are done
or Hazelnut Meringue the detailed directions on page 461, when you can push them loose
Layers beat the egg whites, starting at slow gently-but don't force them since
speed, until they foam throughout. they will take their own time. They
For 3 meringue-nut layers, about 1 6 by Add the salt and cream of tartar, and should color only lightly, and will not
4 inches, and 318 inch thick continue until soft peaks are formed; change shape.
continue beating as you sprinkle in
1½ cups toasted hazelnuts and/or the sugar, then the vanilla and al- *Ahead-of-time note: Meringues
almonds pulverized with 1 ½ cups mond extracts; beat to stiff shining soften rapidly in a humid atmo-
sugar (see preceding notes) peaks. With a big rubber spatula, sphere. They keep best wrapped air-
The Swiss meringue rapidly and delicately fold in the nut/ tight in the freezer, where they may
¾ cup egg whites (5 to 6 egg whites) sugar mixture by generous sprinkles. remain for several weeks. They de-
A big pinch of salt frost in a few minutes at room tem-
¼ tsp cream of tartar perature while you are setting out the
3 Tbs sugar ingredients for your cake.
¼ tsp almond extract
SPECIAL NOTE
A blender or processor for the nuts; egg- To pulverize nuts. You can grate
white beating equipment for the me- them fine, if you have such a
ringue; a 16-inch pastry bag with ½- specialized machine. Otherwise
inch round tube opening; 2 no-stick pas- pulverize not more than ½ cup at a
try sheets about 17 by 12 inches, but- Squeezing out meringue for second rectangle time in a blender, or ¾ cup at a time
tered and floured in a food processor with steel blade-
Forming the cake layers. Scoop the always adding 1 tablespoon or more
Preliminaries. Measure and set out all meringue mixture into the pastry of granulated sugar to prevent the
the ingredients listed. Prepare the bag. (Pastry bag directions are on nuts from turning oily. Don't
baking sheets and mark with a ruler page 460.) Starting at the outside overpulverize-they should be dry
three 16- by 4-inch rectangles upon edges and working around inward, and powdery; otherwise they will
them. Preheat the oven to 250°F, and squeeze rectangular shapes 3/s-inch lump when you fold them into a
place the racks in the upper and thick into the spaces you have out- batter or egg whites.
lower third levels. Fluff up the pul- lined, as shown in the photograph.
verized nuts and sugar to be sure Smooth them with a flexible-blade
there are no lumps. spatula. (Make individual meringue
cakes or cookies with any leftovers-
and they can bake on the free section
of the second pastry sheet.)
Baking-about 1 hour at 250°F. Im-

mediately set the meringues in the
preheated oven, and switch levels
every 20 minutes for even baking.
J ULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK CAKES & COOKIES 47 5
Le Delice de Montecito SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
Meringue-nut cake with chocolate and 3 medium-size mixing bowls for the but-
amaretti filling ter creams; a rectangular ser'Ving board
or platter of ample size to hold the cake;
One of the beauties of the rectangular strips of wax paper
cake is that after you have sliced off
as many servings _as you wish, you The butter cream . Scoop a quarter of
can refrost and redecorate the cut the butter cream into one of the mix-
end, and serve it forth again as a ing bowls , and another quarter into
fresh construction. This could be the second bowl. Beat the rum into
served in half slices as a tea cake- the remaining half portion of butter 2. Spreading shaved almonds along sides
but I'd prefer coffee to tea. However, cream and reserve for frosting the
it makes a magnificent dessert for an cake. Beat the melted chocolate into Decorations. Brush shaved almonds
important dinner, accompanied by a the first bowl, and the amaretti cook- against the sides and ends of the cake,
late-harvest riesling or Sauternes. ies and liqueur into the second bowl. step 2. Strew a decorative but rather
sparse layer of the shaved or grated
For a 16- by 4-inch cake, ser'Ving 16 Assembling the cake layers . With a ser- chocolate on top.
to 24 rated knife, tri m the edges of the me-
ringue layers to make them even. Chilling before ser'Ving-3 to 4 hours.
3 cups French butter cream (page
Paint the top of each layer with a thin Refrigerate for several hours to
468)
coating of warm apricot glaze. Ar- soften the meringue and to set the
Butter-cream flavorings range strips of wax paper on the plat- frosting and filling-covering the
3 Tbs white rum ter in such a way that they may be cake with a box, or a tent of foil.
3 Tbs smoothly melted sweet slipped out after frosting the cake.
chocolate (page 464) *Ahead-of-time note: The cake will
2 Tbs pulverized amaretti cookies or keep several days under refrigera-
toasted macaroons tion. It can be frozen.
2 Tbs Amaretto liqueur
3 baked meringue-nut layers, 16- by

4-inch size-the preceding recipe VA RIATION S
1 cup warm apricot glaze (sieved
apricot jam boiled down with 2 Other Fillings and Frostings
Tbs sugar until thick and sticky,
page 427) You may use many other frostings,
such as Italian meringue with choco-
Final decoration I. Spreading on chocolate filling
late or other flavorings, or the pastry
1 cup shaved almonds (bought in cream with whipped cream or me-
packages), toasted Arrange one meringue layer over the ringue- Chiboust ( page 402). See
2 ounces (2 squares) shaved or strips, and spread on the chocolate another chocolate idea in the Special
grated sweet chocolate filling, as illustrated, step 1. Cover Note.
with a second meringue layer and
spread on the amaretti cream. Cover
with the third meringue layer, and
spread the rum-flavored butter cream
over the top and sides of the
rectangle.
ROULADES -S PONGE
SPECIAL NOTE Chilling. Turn the chocolate into the SHEETS-JELLY ROLLS
mixing bowl, set it in the bowl of ice,
Ganache
T
and whisk several minutes until it has
Chocolate cream filling or frosting firmed to spreading consistency. Sieve hree terms for the same
in confectioners sugar to taste. thing, a cake batter spread in
This extremely easy and versatile a jelly-roll pan , baked until it just
chocolate filling was not around when *Ahead-of-time note: May be made holds its shape, then rolled up with
I was doing my classic French tra.in- ahead , but do not bother to beat it jelly or whipped cream and dusted
ing in the early 1950's. Now I often over ice; reheat to decongeal before with confectioners sugar, or slathered
wonder why not, who introduced it, using and then beat over ice if with a rich and fancy filling and dec-
etc., etc . necessary. orated with frostings and frills.
For about 2 cups
8 ounces sweet chocolate ( or 6 VAR IATIO NS

ounces sweet and 2 ounces Manufacturing Notes.A
unsweetened) Chocolate Ganache Truffles spongecake batter is the one to choose
1 cup heavy whipping cream here , either the plain formula on
2 tsp pure vanilla extract Make the ganache mixture quite stiff, page 45 6 or the orange-almond
2 to 3 Tbs rum, optional adding a little less cream or a little variation following it. Use any of the
Confectioners sugar more chocolate. When well chilled, fillings and frostings described in this
roll into rough balls, roll in cocoa chapter, and since roulades are so
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: powder, and drop into frilled paper flexi ble , I'm giving suggestions with
A moderately heavy stainless saucepan; cups. Keep under refrigeration until only page references for fillings, etc.,
a large stainless mixing bowl set in a serving time. but full details on how to bake a cake
larger bowl of ice cubes and water; a in a jelly-roll pan .
large balloon whip or hand-held electric
mixer
Ganache Chocolate Mousse or
Melting the chocolate. Break up the
Ice Cream
chocolate, turn it into the saucepan,
add the cream, and stir over moder- Use double the amount of cream in
ate heat until the chocolate has melted the master recipe, to make a mass
and the cream is almost at the sim- that holds itself softly in a spoon
mer. Stir quite vigorously until the when chilled over ice. Pack into a
chocolate· and cream have melded into serving bowl or individual bowls and
a smooth brown mass; stir in the va- chill 2 to 3 hours for a mousse, or
nilla and/or rum. freeze for ice cream.
Julia with her Buche de Noel (recipe, page 478 )

Holiday Roulade
This is a dressy suggestion, fine for a

party or a holiday meal. I like the
orange-almond cake formula here,
and an enriched Italian meringue for
the filling and frosting.
For an 11- by 17-inch sponge sheet,

serving 8 to 10
2 Tbs softened butter and % cup

flour, for the jelly-roll pan
The orange-almond spongecake
batter on page 458
Confectioners sugar in a fine-
meshed sieve
2 cups whipped cream (page 440)
2 cups Italian meringue (2 egg
whites, ¾ cup sugar, and ¼ cup
water boiled to the soft-ball stage,
page 421)
1 cup pulverized almond or hazelnut
pralin (page 423) (save out 2 Tbs
for final decoration)
1 cup rum imbibing syrup ( ¼ cup
sugar,¾ cup water, 3 Tbs white
rum, page 459)
Decorative suggestions: Angelica
and candied cherries

A standard jelly-roll pan about 11 by
1 7 inches; wax paper; a large tray or
baking sheet to help in unmolding; a
serving board
Baking the sponge sheet-about 10 Cooling and unmolding. Remove from
Preparing the jelly-roll pan and other minutes at 3 75°F. Immediate! y turn the oven , and slice ¼ inch off the
preliminaries. Rub the inside of the the batter into the prepared pan; bang long sides of the sponge sheet-they
jelly-roll pan with soft butter; line it once firmly but not roughly on your may be brittle and will crack, later.
with a sheet of wax paper, leaving 2 work surface to settle it, and place at The following maneuvers are to pre-
inches extra at each end. Butter the once in the preheated oven. vent the cake from becoming dry and
paper. Roll flour in the pan and impossible to roll. Sprinkle the top
knock out excess. Preheat the oven to When is it done? It is done when with a 1/16-inch layer of confectioners
3 7 5°F and set the rack in the lower very lightly colored and the top feels
middle level. Measure out all the in- springy. It must just hold together; if (continued )
gredients listed and have the prepared overcooked and dried out it will
cake batter ready. crack when you roll it up.
VARIATION
A Buche de Noel:
A Yule Log Cake
It's easy indeed to turn the preceding

roulade into the traditional Yule log
cake. Just add one more egg to the
Italian meringue mixture for the
mushrooms, add chocolate to the rest
I. Covering sugared cake with wax paper and 2 . Rolling up the filled cake with help of towel
dampened towel
of the meringue, and boil up some
sugar for the spun caramel veil. To
serve more people, by the way,
Holiday Roulade (continued) Filling the sponge sheet. Unroll the double the recipe, making 2 rou-
sponge sheet and sprinkle with the lades; set them end to end and frost-
sugar. Cover with a sheet of wax pa- imbibing syrup. Spread on the pralin ing will hide their joining.
per and a lightly dampened towel (see cream filling, and roll up the cake,
illustration, step 1). Turn a tray or starting at a small end and using the For a 10-inch cake, serving 8 to JO
baking sheet upside down over the towel to help you, step 2.
cake, and reverse the two. Unmold Ingredients and equipment for the
the cake by holding an end of the wax Frosting, decorating, and serving. preceding roulade, adding 1 more
paper while you lift off the jelly-roll Place the roll seam side down on the egg white to the Italian meringue
pan. Neatly and carefully peel the serving board and slip pieces of wax For filling and frosting
wax paper off the cake. Sift another paper under the edges all around.
12 ounces semisweet baking
1/16-inch layer of sugar over the cake Frost the cake with the remaining
chocolate melted with 1/3 cup
and roll it up in the damp towel, then meringue cream and decorate it.
strong coffee (page 464)
in plastic wrap. Here I've used a sprinkling of 1/3 cup, more or less, sifted
pralin, angelica cut into leaf shapes,
unsweetened cocoa
*Ahead-of-time note: The cake may be and candied cherries. Keep refriger-
baked a day or two in advance and ated until serving and, of course, re- For decoration
refrigerated; if you freeze it, be sure move the platter-protecting wax 2 to 3 Tbs unsweetened cocoa in a
to let it thaw an hour or more or it paper strips before presenting your tea strainer
will break. masterpiece. Confectioners sugar in a fine-
meshed sieve
Meringue cream for filling and frosting.
Fold the whipped cream and vanilla For the spun caramel veil
into the cool Italian meringue. Then 1 cup sugar
fold a third of the meringue cream 3 Tbs white corn syrup
into the pralin-this is the filling. 1/3 cup water
Sprigs of holly, optional
ADDITIONAL EQUIPMENT:
A buttered and floured pastry sheet for
the mushrooms; a 16-inch .flexible vinyl
pastry bag with ½-inch and 1/s-inch
tubes; a washed and oiled broomstick
suspended between 2 chairs, for the car-
amel veil
seam side down on the serving board

and slip double sheets of wax paper
under the edge of each side and the
two ends-to catch spills.
Frosting the log. Beat 2 or more

spoonfuls of sifted cocoa into the
frosting mixture to make it of
spreadable consistency. (Reserve 2
tablespoons of frosting for the mush-
rooms.) Leaving the two ends free,
frost the cake using a flexible metal
spatula, then scumble it with the
spatula and a fork to give it a rough,
barklike look. With a small knife dig
a hole in an upper side of the log and
insert a piece of the scrap to simulate
a bump or a branch, step 2 .
M eringue mushrooms. P reheat the the pastry sheet-they should color

oven to 200°F. Scoop a quarter of the no more than a darkish cream. Re-
plain Italian meringue into a pastry turn unused meringue to the main
bag and squeeze out 8 to 10 ½-inch mixture.
domes on the pastry sheet , to serve as
mushroom caps. H old the 1/s-inch *Ahead-of-time note: Meringues may
tube over the end of the pastry bag be made in advance and frozen.
2. Inserti ng cake sc rap to make bump on log
and squeeze out 8 to 10 conical
shapes ¾ inch high , for the.stems, The frosting and filling. Before beating
see illustration , step 1. Bake about 1 the whipped cream into the Italian *Ahead-of-time note: Refrigerate the
hour in the middle level of the oven, meringue, as described in the master log if you are not continuing; it will
until the meringues push easily off recipe, beat in the smoothly melted keep nicely for a day or even two-if
chocolate. Then fold in the whipped you can find a nonmashing cover for
cream. Remove two thirds of the it.
mixture to a bowl and refrigerate;
this is the frosting. (continued)
Filling the cake . Spread the filling

over the top of the sponge sheet, roll
it up from one of the long sides, and
you have made the log shape. Neatly
slice a narrow slanting piece from
each end of the log. Place the log
I . Forming mushroom stems
Honey Spice Cake:

Pain d'Epices
Every region in France seems to have

its own special spice cake, but this is
the pick of the lot, to my mind.
While the dough can be made and
baked at once , you'll find that a honey
spice cake improves with age-if you
3 . Inserting mushroom stem into cap 4. Waving fo rkful of car amel over broo mstick
make it in mid-December and give it
at Christmas, it will be in perfect fla-
vor for New Year's Day. Although
Buche de Noel (continued ) Let it cool 2 to 3 minutes, until it you can prepare the dough by hand, a
forms thick strands when lifted with heavy-duty mixer with flat beater at-
Final decorations, just before serving. a fork. Then, dipping the fork into tachment makes light work of it, par-
the syrup, wave it over the broom- ticularly when you are baking a large
The mushrooms. With a small stick, to form long hanging threads number.
knife, pierce a hole in the bottom of of caramel, step 4.
each meringue mushroom cap, insert
For an 8-cup loaf, serving 12 or more
a bit of the frosting (or softened but- The finale. Lift the caramel strands
ter) into the hole, and then the off the broomstick; drape them over The basic dough
pointed end of a meringue stem, step the yule log. Decorate the serving 1113 cups ( 1 pound) honey
3. Arrange the mushrooms in tasteful board with sprigs of holly, if you 1 cup sugar
clusters upon the log. Dust the log wish, and the Buche de Noel is ready ¾ cup boiling water
with a sparse coating of confectioners to serve. ½ tsp salt
sugar to give a snowy effect. Dust the 1 Tbs baking soda
mushroom tops with cocoa powder 3 to 4 cups rye flour, as needed
tapped from the sieve.
Additions
TWO LOAF CAKES
The caramel veil. Shortly before 213 cup blanched almonds, pulverized
serving, bring the sugar to the sim- (page 474)
mer with the corn syrup and water in
a small saucepan; when completely
dissolved and clear, cover tightly and
boil to the caramel stage ( page 421 ).
L oaf cakes are easy to serve,
and these two go nicely with
any informal meal, be it breakfast, a
1 tsp each almond and anise extracts
¼ cup dark rum or bourbon
whiskey
½ tsp each: cinnamon, ground
picnic, or a holiday luncheon . An
cloves, and mace
added advantage is that they keep
1 cup mixed glaceed fruits ( diced,
nicely, so that you can have some-
and rinsed in boiling water)
thing on hand for emergencies. They
are attractive Christmas gifts, too, if SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
you are one who enjoys making your A heavily buttered 8-cup loaf pan, bot-
own presents. tom lined with buttered wax paper; a
heavy-duty mixer w ith flat beater is es-
pecially welcome here
Applesauce Fruitcake
Maggie Mah, whose father's Nessel-

rode ice cream is on page 416, has
also given us her grandmother's holi-
day cake with nuts, multiple spices,
and an unusual applesauce base. It's a
moist, serious, spicy loaf in the old-
fashioned tradition ;
For a 9-inch, 6-cup loaf pan
The cake dough. Preheat the oven to When is it done? The cake is done 2 cups golden seedless raisins
325°F. Beat the honey, sugar, and when a skewer plunged to the bottom 1½ cups all-purpose ·flour (scooped
boiling water in the mixer bowl until of the pan comes out completely and leveled, page 380)
the sugar is dissolved. Beat in the salt clean; the cake should also show a ½ cup brown sugar
and soda, and 3 cups of rye flour. slight line of shrinkage from the ½ cup granulated sugar
Beat in as much more flour as the sides of the pan-better slightly 1 tsp each: ground cloves, cinnamon,
dough will take, to make a heavy, overcooked than undercooked. and allspice
sticky mass that you can still mani pu- 1 tsp salt
late. Beat in the additional Cooling and storing. Let the cake cool 1 cup hazelnuts or walnuts, toasted
ingredients. for 20 minutes in its pan; then un- 1 Tbs double-acting baking powder
mold onto a rack, peel the paper off 4 Tbs melted butter
Into the loaf pan. Turn the batter into the bottom, and gently turn the cake 1 cup cool, thick applesauce (page
the prepared pan, filling it by about right side up. When thoroughly 424 ), or boiled-down canned
two-thirds. Dip your fingers in cold cold, wrap airtight and store for a applesauce
water to smooth the top nicely. week or more before serving. It will
keep for at least several months
A big mixing bowl and wooden spoon; a
Baking- I to 1 ¼ hours or more at under refrigeration.
pan or bowl for the applesauce; a heav-
325°F. Timing depends on the shape
ily buttered 9-inch, 6-cup loaf pan, bot-
of the pan. Bake in the middle level
tom· lined with buttered wax paper
of the preheated oven. Warning: Do
not open the oven door for 45 min-
(continued)
utes, and do not shake the pan-this
could release the soda-engendered
gases and deflate the cake! The dough
will rise to fill the pan, and the top of
the cake will crack.
A SELECTION OF SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
COOKIES A medium mixing bowl; a larger mixer

bowl; a heavy-duty mixer with flat
beater is useful; a jelly-roll pan about
. A varied selection of cookies

ends this chapter, including
a near cousin of the biscotti family
11 by 1 7 inches, buttered, lined with
buttered wax paper, and floured ( page
4 77); 2 pastry sheets for final baking; a
large cake rack
and two kinds of chocolate truffles,
sugar cookies you can use for dessert
tarts, Proustian madeleines, as well as The dough. Beat the sugars, vanilla,
Thick batter goes into prepa red pan.
complete directions for making your eggs, oil, and water in the smaller
own gingerbread men. mixing bowl to dissolve the sugar.
Applesau~e Fruitcake (continued) , Blend the dry ingredients in the
larger mixer bowl and beat in the ..
The cake batter. Preheat the oven to sugar mixture, using the heavy-duty
3 00°F, and set the rack in the middle Almond Bar Cookies mixer or a strong arm. This is a
level. Toss the raisins in the mixing heavy dough. If it is too thick to
bowl with the flour, add the sugars, These are dry, crisp, spicy cookies, spread in the next step, beat in drop-
seasonings, nuts, and baking powder. twice baked, closely related to the lets more water.
Beat the butter into the thick apple- biscotti of Italy. They keep beauti-
sauce; blend all the ingredients to- fully and are ever-useful to have on Into the pan. Preheat the oven to
gether in the bowl. Turn the batter hand in the cookie jar. 325°F. Turn the dough into the pan
into the prepared pan, as illustrated. and press it in place with wet hands.
For 3 to 5 dozen, depending on how you Cover with a sheet of plastic wrap
Baking- about 1 ½ hours at 300°F. cut them and smooth the dough under it with
Set the cake in the preheated oven- your hands. Remove the plastic.
The first mixture
do not press, poke, or shake the cake
for an hour at least, or it may deflate. 1 cup granulated white sugar First baking at 325°F-25 minutes or
¾ cup dark brown sugar more. Bake in the middle level of the
When is it done? The cake is done 1 tsp pure vanilla extract preheated oven until firm to the touch
2 "large" eggs and lightly browned.
when nicely browned, and a skewer,
1/3 cup fresh peanut oil
plunged down through it, comes out
clean. 2 Tbs cold water Cutting. Remove the pan from the
The dry ingredients oven and cool 10 minutes. U nmold
Cooling and curing-24 hours at least. onto a board, and peel off the wax pa-
2½ cups all-purpose flour (scooped
Set the pan on a rack and cool 2 0 per. Cut into even strips, then cut
and leveled, page 380)
minutes, then unmold onto the rack 1 tsp salt
and turn it right side up. When thor- 1 tsp cardamom
oughly cold, wrap airtight and let 2 tsp cinnamon
cure at least a day before serving. It 2 tsp baking powder
will keep several weeks under 2 cups slivered almonds, toasted
refri gera ti on. (page 423)
Serving. Serve the cake as is with Optional: confectioners sugar in a

fruits, or tea, or as a dessert with va- fine-meshed sieve
nilla ice cream.
Cutting the cookies
each strip crosswise, as illustrated,

making pieces of any size you wish-
1¼ by 3 inches, for example.
Second baking at 300°F-40 minutes

or more. Arrange the cookies on the
pastry sheets and bake until a nice
~~
walnut brown, crisp to the touch, and
crunchy to the tooth-eat one to
make sure, and return the pan to the
oven if necessary. This second baking
Almond Wafers: Tuiles SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
also gives the cookies their interesting
auxAmandes 2 or 3 buttered baking sheets; a 2-quart
taste.
mixing bowl, wooden spoon, and rubber
Almond wafers are the perfect ac- spatula; a flexible -blade spatula; a roll-
Serving and storing. Cool on a rack.
companiment to sherbets, ice creams, ing pin braced so it won't roll; a large
Serve them as is, or decorate with a
and fruit desserts. Delicate, crisp, cake rack
dusting of confectioners sugar. Un-
sugared cookies keep for weeks in an light-your own freshly baked wa-
fers will be hard to beat. Preliminaries. Preheat the oven to
airtight container.
425°F, and set the rack in the middle
For 4 5 wafers, 3 inches across level. Butter the baking sheets, and
measure out all the ingredients listed.
3½ Tbs unsalted butter
½ cup sugar The cookie batter. Cream the butter
¼ cup egg whites (scant 2 egg and sugar together in a bowl with a
whites) wooden spoon. When soft _and fluffy,
1/3 cup plain bleached cake flour
add the egg whites, stirring only
(scooped and leveled, page 380), enough barely to blend. Sift on the
in a sifter set over wax paper flour and begin folding it in with a
113 cup blanched almonds, pulverized rubber spatula; when almost blended,
(page 474) fold in the ground almonds, almond
¼ tsp almond extract extract, and vanilla.
½ tsp pure vanilla extract
213 cup or so shaved almonds (bought (continued)
in packages)
Almond Wafers (continued)
Onto the baking sheets. Drop I -

tablespoon gobs of batter onto a pre-
pared baking sheet, spacing the gobs
3 inches apart. With the back of a
spoon, smear out each into a thin, al-
most transparent disk 2 ½ inches in
diameter. Top each with a pinch of
the shaved almonds.
Cookies cri sp into shape on ro ll ing pin.
Chocolate Lace Wafers SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:

Baking at 425° F-about 4 minutes.
An 8-cup saucepan and a pan of barely
Set a filled sheet in the preheated
An unusual cookie-caramelized, simmering water to hold it; 2 baking
oven and bake until a Ya-inch border
crisply chewy, and chocolaty-it's sheets about 11 by 1 7 inches; heavy-duty
around the cookies has browned
somewhat persnickety to make but wide aluminum foil; a can of no-stick
lightly. (Form a new sheet while the
worth the trouble. spray, or almond oil; a cake rack
first is baking.) Open the oven door
and set the baking sheet on it, to keep
For about 2½ dozen 4-inch wafers Preliminaries. Preheat the oven to
the cookies flexible during the un-
3 7 5°F and set a rack in the middle
molding process. Quickly slide the 4 ounces ( 1 stick) unsalted butter level. Line the baking sheets
flexible spatula under a cookie; lift it ¼ cup dark molasses smoothly with the foil, its shiny side
off and onto the rolling pin as shown. ¼ cup light brown sugar up, tucking it in under the edges of
Continue rapidly with the re t-they ¼ cup heavy cream the sheets all around; spray with the
crisp in a few seconds. Close the oven 2 Tbs white com syrup no-stick solution, or brush with oil.
door and let the tern perature return 1 tsp ground ginger
to 425°F before baking the next A big pinch of salt The batter. Cut up the butter and
batch. 1 cup plain bleached cake flour bring it just to the simmer in the
(scooped and leveled, page 380), saucepan, with all the ingredients ex-
Serving and storing. The wafers lose in a sifter set over wax paper cept the flour and the chocolate. Re-
their crisp in humid atmosphere. It's 1/ 3 cup small chocolate bits (available
move from heat and whisk in the
best to serve them soon after baking, in a bag, or break up sweet flour. Set the pan in the larger pan of
or to keep them in a warming oven at chocolate and chop roughly in the almost simmering water.
100°F. However, since the curved processor)
roof-tile tuile shape is difficult to
store, you may wish to crisp them flat
on a rack if you are making them
ahead and freezing them.
Forming and baking-4 wafers at a

time. Place 4 tablespoon-size blobs,
spaced well apart, on a foil-covered
baking sheet. Spread them out with
the back of a spoon into even 2-inch
disks. Bake about 3 minutes, until
bubbling-even them out with the
back of a spoon if necessary. Rapidly
sprinkle ½ teaspoon of chocolate
over each. Bake 3 to 4 minutes more,
until the bubbling has almost ceased
and the cookies have browned nicely.
(Prepare another sheet while the first
is baking-respray or oil the foil for
each batch.)
Unmolding and storing. Remove the

baking sheet from the oven and let
cool 3 minutes, then peel the cookies
off the foil and let them crisp on the
rack. Store in a warming oven, or
for several days in an airtight con-
tainer, or freeze.
Final powdering: ½ cup each Storing and serving. Refrigerate in an
powdered cocoa and instant airtight container, where they will
coffee powder (pulverize granular keep several weeks, or you may
Chocolate Amaretti Truffles instant coffee in a blender), mixed freeze them.
in a bowl
Chocolate truffles have been trendy
items for a number of years and no VARIATIO N S
A 6-cup saucepan with tight-fitting
wonder. They most eminently satisfy
cover and a pan of almost-simmering
the chocolate urge, and they're easy to Other Flavors
water io hold it-for melting chocolate;
make. The following recipe is for a
a wire whisk and a wooden spoon; a
fairly sturdy truffie that will sit on Use, for instance, bourbon whiskey
bowl of ice cubes with water to cover;
the sideboard for a while without or dark rum for the liqueur, and pul-
frilled bonbon cups
softening. verized gingersnaps for the cookies.
The mixture. When the chocolate is
For a dozen or more, depending on size
melted and smooth, whisk in the but-
8 ounces sweet chocolate melted ter by tablespoon pieces, then the va-
with ¼ cup Amaretto liqueur and nilla, and finally beat in the Chocolate Ganache Truffies
2 Tbs strong coffee (page 464) pulverized cookies. Set over the ice
4 ounces ( 1 stick) unsalted softened and stir until chilled and fairly firm . These high-class but perishable truf-
butter fles made of heavy cream and choco-
1 Tbs pure vanilla extract Forming. Dig into the mixture with a late are described in the Special Note
¾ cup pulverized amaretti cookies teaspoon, gather up a gob, and form on page 476.
into a rough roc~like truffie shape.
Roll it in the cocoa/coffee powder and
drop it into a frilled paper cup .

A heavy-duty mixer with flat beater is
useful here, or a strong arm; buttered
and floured baking sheets; a large cake
rack
The mixture. Cream the butter and

sugars in the mixer. W hen soft and
fluffy, beat in the eggs, then the
spices, seasonings, baking powder,
Using cookie molds
and enough of the white and rye
GINGERBREAD MEN flours to make a firm dough. Wrap
and chill 24 hours. Wooden or plastic molds. Flour
Make your own Christmas cookies wooden or plastic molds. Cut a piece
and let the whole family in on the To form and bake the dough. Roll it of dough the general shape of the de-
decorating. First here's the dough for out ¼ inch thick. sign, unroll the dough onto the ·
the cookies, then the icing. mold, press it into place, and work
off excess dough with your fingers.
Knock out the molded dough onto a
buttered and floured pastry sheet, and
Spiced Cookie Dough correct the design if necessary with a
small knife or other object.
To make gingerbread cut-outs,
houses, and cookie molds. Baking-about 15 minutes at 350°F.
Bake in the middle level ( or the up-
TIMING NOTE. The dough needs a day
per and lower middle levels) of the
at least to cure before using.
preheated oven.
Using paper pattern for special shapes
For about 3 cups, enough for 3 0 small-
When are they done? When dry
ish shapes, or a 20-inch giant
Cut-outs. For metal cutters or pa- and firm to the touch. Cool on a
6 ounces ( 1 ½ sticks) unsalted butter per patterns you fashion yourself, cut rack.
213 cup each dark brown sugar and the dough to the general size of the
granulated sugar design. Roll the dough up on your
2 "large" eggs rolling pin, and unroll it on a but-
1 ½ tsp each: ground cardamom, tered and floured baking sheet. Then
ginger, cinnamon, and cumin cut it.
½ tsp each ground cloves and
nutmeg
¼ tsp each salt and pepper
1 tsp double-acting baking powder
2 to 2½ cups all-purpose flour
2 to 2½ cups rye flour

SPECIAL NOTE 2 baking sheets about 11 by 17 inches,
buttered and floured ( page 4 77); a pas-
Royal Icing: Glace Royale try bag with ½-inch tube opening; a
portable electric mixer; a 3 -quart mix-
This standard icing for eclairs, cakes, ing bowl; egg-white beating equipment
and cookies hardens as it cools, mak- ( page 4 61); a large cake rack
ing it fairly indestructible, and there-
fore most desirable for Christmas Preliminaries. Preheat the oven to
cookies. 3 5 0°F and place the racks in the up-
per and lower middle levels. Draw
For about 1 ½ cups Ladyfingers: Biscuits horizontal lines on the baking sheets
1 egg white a la Cuiller with a pencil eraser or chopstick to

make spaces 4 inches deep and with
¼ tsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
Ladyfingers, little finger-shaped lines 1 inch apart. Prepare the pastry
2 cups sifted confectioners sugar,
spongecakes, are delightful accompa- bag. Measure out all the ingredients
plus more, if needed
niments to sherbets and fruit des- listed. Work fast so that the batter
Food coloring tubes or bottles
serts, or on the tea table. However, will stay puffed .
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: one of their most useful functions is
A 2-quart mixing bowl; a portable elec- to line dessert molds, as pictured The batter. Beat the egg yolks with
tric mixer here. Unfortunately all the packaged the mixer in the 3-quart bowl, grad-
store-bought ones I've sampled have ually adding the ½ cup sugar, until
The mixture. Beat the egg white, been of a miserably flabby quality- the mixture is thick, pale yellow, and
lemon juice, and 2 cups of the con- better to use store-bought sugar cook- forms the ribbon ( page 461 ). Beat in
fectioners sugar for 2 minutes· or ies. However, why not make your the salt and vanilla . Sift in the flour
more, until the mixture forms stiff own ladyfingers? It's not much of a by thirds, beating it in with the
peaks-"makes the beak," as cooks trick, and they freeze beautifully, mixer after each addition.
say. If it doesn't beak, and you feel too.
you have really given it reasonable The egg whites. Beat the egg whites
time, beat in more sugar by For 2 to 2 ½ dozen separately, starting at slow speed until
sprinkles. they foam throughout. Add the salt
3 egg yolks and cream of tartar, and continue un-
1/3 cup sugar til soft peaks are formed; sprinkle in
*Ahead-of-time note: May be made
A pinch of salt the additional 3 tablespoons of sugar
somewhat ahead but do not let it dry
1½ tsp pure vanilla extract and beat to stiff shining peaks. With
out-transfer to a small bowl, then
½ cup plain bleached cake flour a large rubber spatula, stir a quarter
cover with a slightly dampened paper
(scooped and leveled, page 380), of the egg whites into the yolk mix-
towel and plastic wrap.
in a sifter set over wax paper ture to make it smooth a{ light,
3 egg whites then scoop the remainin egg whites
For decorations. Place spoonfuls of the
A pinch of salt o_ver the yolks. Quickly , ut delicately
icing in small bowls. Leave one as is
Scant ¼ tsp cream of tartar fold them together-the atter will
for white, and add drops of food col-
3 additional Tbs sugar remain puffed and hold i s shape if
oring to the others. Either push the
1½ cups confectioners sugar, in a you've worked quickly. t once
icing out using a paper cone, or ap-
fine-meshed sieve transfer the batter to the astry bag
ply it with a small spatula.
and proceed to the next s ep.
(continued)
Ladyfingers (continued) MANUFACTURING NOTE. A strange

method, this-it was developed by the
Forming and baking. Into the 4-inch bakers of C ommercy to insure a little
spaces marked on the baking sheet, shell-shaped cake that humped in the
rapidly squeeze out finger shapes, middle. You can buy madeleine molds in
slanting them and spacing them 1 most gourmet shops or through mail-
inch apart. Sieve on a generous (1/16- order catalogues-or you can bake them
inch) layer of confectioners sugar, in scallop shells. You can also bake the
and place immediately in the pre- batter in muffin tins, and would then
heated oven . Bake 12 minutes; rap- call them Com mercy Cup cakes.
I . Lumps of madeleine batter going into cups
idly switch the pans to alternate them
on the racks. Bake 5 to 6 minutes For 2 4 madeleines, 3 inches long
more, until lightly browned and set the racks in the upper and lower
2 "large" eggs, lightly beaten in a 2-
crisp under their coating of sugar. middle levels.
(Homemade ladyfingers do not puff a cup measure
great deal because, unlike commer- 213 cup sugar
Molding. Paint the madeleine cups
1 cup all-purpose flour (scooped and
cial ones, they contain no baking with the reserved butter-flour mix-
powder. In contrast, they are tenderly leveled, page 380), plus 1 Tbs
ture. Divide the batter into 24 lumps
extra for preparing the molds
crisp.) Scoop them off the baking of a generous tablespoon each, and
5 ounces ( 1¼ sticks) unsalted butter,
sheets with a spatula, and let them drop them into the madeleine cups,
cut into 6 pieces
cool on the rack . step 1.
A pinch of salt
Forming note. Accomplished cooks The grated rind of ½ lemon
Baking-about 15 minutes at 3 75°F.
Drops of freshly squeezed lemon
can form ladyfinger shapes with a Bake in the preheated oven until the
spoon-a la cuiller. It takes a little juice
cakes are lightly browned around the
Drops of pure vanilla extract
practice, so they say, to achieve the edges, humped in the middle, and
Confectioners sugar, for sprinkling
perfect finger shape. slightly shrunk from the cups. Un-
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: mold onto a rack.
Serving. Just before serving, dust the
A mixing bowl and wooden spoon; a
ladyfingers with confectioners sugar.
bow l with a tray of ice cubes and water
to cover; a pastry brush; 2 madeleine
*Ahead-of-time note: Ladyfingers may pans, 12 cups each; a large cake rack
be refrigerated for a day or two in an
airtight container, or frozen. Do not
The batter. Measure ¼ cup of the
sugar them until after they have de-
eggs into a bowl , then beat in the
frosted: 10 to 15 minutes at room
sugar and the cup of flour. When
temperature.
thoroughly blended, let rest 10 min-
utes. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a
6-cup saucepan, bring it to the boil,
2. T raditi onal madeleines and Com mercy cupcakes
and let it brown lightly. Place the 1
Madeleines
tablespoon of flour in a small bowl
Little shell-shaped cakes
and blend in 1½ tablespoons of the Serving and storing. When cool, turn
browned butter; set aside for prepar- shell side up and dust with confec-
This is presumably the true made-
ing the madeleine pans. Stir the rest tioners sugar for serving, step 2.
leine from Commercy, the one Mar-
of the butter over ice until cool but They will keep in the refrigerator for
cel Proust dipped in his tea. It's a
liquid; blend it and the last of the a day or two in an airtight container,
charming little cake, perfect with tea,
eggs into the batter along with the and they freeze perfectly.
sherbets, and fruits.
salt, lemon rind and juice, and va-
nilla. Preheat the oven to 3 7 5°F, and
SUGAR COOKIES MADE SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
FROM PASTRY DOUGHS A food processor with steel blade
Measure the flours, salt, and butter

into the container of the machine and
5 MASTER RECIPE process about a minute, until the but-
ter is thoroughly blended. Add and
Sweet Pastry and Cookie process in the sugar, then the egg
Dough: Pate Sablee yolk, vanilla, and water. Continue
processing for several seconds, until
Pricking cookie dough with tines of fork
A lovely sweet buttery dough, and the dough masses. Turn it out onto
when you use the larger amounts of your work surface, form into a rough
sugar it is a cookie dough, just right ball, then push out 2-tablespoon bits ing the oven to 400°F. As illustrated,
for the strawberry tartlets pictured with the heel of your hand in 6-inch prick the surface of each, going down
here. The more sugar, of course, the smears. Gather together into a cake, to the baking surface, to keep the
more friable, stickier, and more diffi- enclose in plastic wrap, and refriger- cookies from rising.
cult the dough is to form, but also ate until cold and hard-2 hours at
the more delicious to eat. least. Note. If the dough breaks or
splits, push it together and smooth it
For a 9- to JO-inch tart shell, or 12 to *Ahead-of-time note: The dough will out with the rolling pin or your
14 medium cookie shapes keep 2 to 3 days in the refrigerator fingers.
before it may turn grayish, but will
¾ cup all-purpose flour (scooped and
keep perfectly for weeks in the Baking-8 to 10 minutes at 400°F.
leveled, page 380)
freezer. Bake in the middle level of the pre-
¼ cup plain bleached cake flour
heated oven, until the edges begin to
¼ tsp salt
brown and the cookies themselves
4 ounces ( 1 stick) chilled unsalted
have taken on a light color. Carefully,
butter, cut into 16 pieces Sugar Cookies: Sables because they're fragile when hot,
3 Tbs to ½ cup granulated sugar
transfer the cookies with a wide flex- ·
(the smaller amount for most pie wARNING. Because of the high butter
ible spatula to a rack; they crisp as
and tart doughs; the larger, for and sugar content, the dough softens eas-
they cool.
cookies) ily. Work fast to prevent it from becom-
1 egg yolk ing sticky; on a hot day it is wise to roll
Storing. They will keep 2 to 3 days in
1 tsp pure vanilla extract j and cut half or even only a third of it at
an airtight container, or they may be
1 Tbs cold water, plus dro lets more a time, keeping the rest chilled.
frozen.
water, if needed
Forming. Beat the chilled dough with
a rolling pin to soften it. Flour the
top lightly and flour your rolling sur-
face; rapidly roll out the dough 1/s
inch thick and cut into shapes. Trans-
fer as cut onto a buttered baking
sheet; chill 20 minutes while preheat-
Strawberry Tartlets: Sables

aux Praises
When is a cookie not a cookie? When

it becomes a strawberry tartlet, and
how easy it is to make them when you
have the preceding sugar cookies in
your freezer. You'll want them 3 to
3 ½ inches in diameter, and they may
be square, round, or heart-shaped.
Assembly ideas -as in the

photograph .
Open faced. Paint a cookie with

warm red currant glaze ( page 437),
arrange thinly sliced strawberries
around the edge, and plop a large
fine bright berry in the middle; paint
more glaze over the strawberries. Or
arrange one or several whole straw-
berries over the glazed surface of a
cookie, paint the berries wi th glaze, SUGAR COOKIES MADE Couques: Elephant Tongues
and sprinkle lightly with confection-
FROM PUFF PASTRY:
ers sugar.
COUQUES AND PALMIERS Big, long, light, crisp caramelized
oval cookies to eat by themselves, or
Strawberry sandwich. Cover an
That wonder dough, French puff to serve with fruit desserts.
open-faced cookie of sliced and
pastry, with its hundreds of paper-
glazed strawberries with a second
thin layers of dough between hun- A 3 -inch disk of dough ½ inch thick,
cookie, sprinkle with confectioners
dreds of paper-thin layers of butter, for 8 couques
sugar, and top with a big bright
makes the most glorious of sugar
berry. Chilled puff pastry leftovers, or
cookies. I imagine they were in-
mock puff pastry dough (pages
vented by clever French bakers to
389 and 392)
deal with their puff pastry left-
Several cups of granulated sugar
overs-use leftover puff pastry or
make a mock puff pastry out of left- SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:
over butter pastry dough. Recipes for A flexible-blade metal spatula; clean dry
both are on pages 3 89 and 3 92. baking sheets; a large cake rack
WARNING. Keep the dough chilled. If

the dough begins to soften, stop where
you are and refrigerate it. Warm sticky
dough is impossible to w ork with.
Palmiers-Palm Leaves-
Elephant Ears
These, too, are superior cookies eaten

just by themselves, or with tea, or
with fruits. Those pictured here are
the small baby elephant ears, but you
can make them twice the size if you
wish.
Rolling and stretching round of dough in sugar Stages in manufacturing palmiers
A piece of dough 5½ by 2 by 1 ½
inches, for 2 dozen 3-inch palmiers
Forming. Roll the dough 1/s inch the two long sides to meet at the cen-
thick and cut into 2-inch rounds. Several cups of granulated sugar ter, as shown in the illustration.
Spread a 12-inch oval of sugar 1/s Chilled puff pastry leftovers, or Sprinkle on more sugar and press it
inch thick on your work surface. Lay mock puff pastry dough (pages into the dough with your rolling pin.
a round of dough on the sugar and 389 and 392) Fold the dough in 2 lengthwise, as in
roll it out into a tongue shape about 6 the second rectangle to the right of
inches long and 1/16 inch thick, as il- the first-you now have 4 layers of
A flexible-blade metal spatula; clean dry
lustrated . Reverse the shape and, sugary dough. Press them together
baking sheets; a large cake rack
holding the other end, roll it again. with your rolling pin, then cut into
Turn it upside down (sugared side WARNING: Keep the dough chilled. If crosswise pieces 3/s inch thick.
up) and sprinkle more sugar on the dough begins to soften, stop where
top-you need a 1/16-inch layer of you are and refrigerate it. Warm sticky Shaping. To produce the palmier ( or
sugar for the cookies to caramelize. dough is impossible to work with. palm-leaf) shape, turn the slices of
Lift with a clean dry spatula onto a dough cut side up and bend the two
dry baking sheet. Continue with the Preliminary rolling in sugar. Spread a ends outward, as shown at lower
rest, spacing the shapes 1 inch apart generous rectangle of sugar 1/s inch right. Place them on the baking
on the baking sheets. (Ball up and re- thick on your work surface. Place the sheets, cover, and refrigerate at least
roll scraps.) Cover and chill 3 0 min- dough .upon it, and roll the dough 3 0 minutes. Preheat the oven to
utes. Preheat the oven to 45 0°F into a rectangle 3/16 inch thick. Fold 450°F before proceeding.
before the next step. in three, as for a business letter, then
rotate the dough so the top flap is to Baking-6 minutes, then 3 to 4 min-
Baking- 7 to 8 minutes at 4 5 0° F. Set your right. Place again on a layer of . utes, at 450°F. Set in the middle level
in the oven. The couques should sugar, roll out to a rectangle, and of the preheated oven and bake 6
brown lightly and the sugar topping again fold in three. Wrap and refrig- minutes, or until the bottoms have
should melt and caramelize-remove erate 3 0 minutes, to firm the butter turned a caramel brown. Turn them
them one by one to the rack as they and relax the dough. over with the spatula, sprinkle with a
are done. 1/16-inch layer of sugar, and bake 3 to
Final rolling and cutting. Again, over 4 minutes more, until nicely caramel-
Storing. The cookies will keep a day a layer of sugar, roll the dough into a ized. Cool on a rack.
or two in a 100°F warming oven or rectangle, this time 8 inches wide on
an airtight container, or you may its short side and ¼ inch thick. Fold Storing. The cookies will keep a day
freeze them. or two in a 100°F warming oven or
an airtight container, or you may
freeze them.
Beef Chart
SIRLOIN
CHUCK ROUND
BRISKET
Index
ahi, see tuna appetizers (cont.) artichokes (cont.)

aigo bouido, 3 0 with green tapenade, B 301 bottoms
albacore, see tuna (yellowfin) guacamole, 3 5 5 braised with garlic, 282
almond(s) oysters, broiled with garlic, M to cook, 281
apple pizza, 43 1 119 with oysters, wine sauce, 2 82
brittle ( pralin), 423 pattypan squash, stuffed, 3 0 8 stuffed, 2 8 0
cake(s) pizzas, 53-7 cream soup, 12
chocolate, 4 7 1 puff pastry rectangles, 3 91 hearts with garlic, 282
Genoa, 469 quiches, 3 84-8 pizza topping, 57
meringue layer, 4 7 4- 5 scallops with tomato, 11 7 steamed, M 279
orange batter, 4 5 8 coquilles Saint Jacques, 117 asparagus
holiday roulade, 4 77 shrimp, skewered, M 109 general information, 2 83
cookies sauteed tabletop , 112 broiled, M 284
bar, 482 steak tartar, 198 cream soup, 10
wafers (tuiles), 483 with tonnato, 373 quiche, 3 87
crepe fillings, 409 apple(s) sauces for
to pulverize, B 4 7 4 general information, B 424 hollandaise, B 87
to toast, B 423 applesauce, M 424 lemon, parsley, 83
anchovies in apple snow, 425 mayonnaise, 363-5
general information, B 57 in Charlotte, 426 vinaigrette, 3 5 0, 3 51
garlic sauce for lamb, 214 in fruitcake, 481 tips
in green tapenade, B 3 O1 clafouti, 443 omelette, 69
onion tart ( pissaladiere), 57, 3 9 3 compote, 441 sauteed, 282
tnna sauce (tonnato), 3 7 2 crepe, 408 stuffing for eggs, B 63
appetizers, first courses crisp, 429 timbale, 7 1
see also salad( s); soup( s) poached, glazed, 442 aspic
brandade, 13 2 with prunes chicken in, 145, 146
Caesar salad, 3 5 2 garnish for meats, 177 clarifying stock, M 15
calzones, 5 8, 59 stuffing with sausage, 18 5 eggs in, 65
cheese slices, oven-baked, M 42 8 fish in, Mediterranean, 26
choux puffs, 403 with bourbon cream, 429 Port wine, 16
gnocchi, 403 in caramel mountain, 43 0 unmolding, B 2 7
gougeres, 403 crepe filling, 40 8 avocado(s)
pita, B 33 crisp, 429 general information, 3 54
Roquefort tart , 3 94 tarts, 393, 394 dietary note, 3 54
tortillas, B 33 almond pizza, 43 1 guacamole, 3 5 5
twists, puff pastry, 3 96 free-form, 432 in salads, 3 54
chicken liver mousse , 146 Tatin, 434 in tomato salsa, B 200
crab puffs, 401 apricot( s)
crepes, 405-7 cake filling, 465
eggplant caviar, 3 3 3 dried with nuts , in crepes, 409 bacon
fish, poached, 103 glaze, B 427 blanching, B 142
foie gras, cracklings, 183 artichokes with calf's liver, 209
gravlaks, 13 0 general information, 279-80 curly endive salad, 3 5 4
M indicates a master recipe; Ba boxed special note

494 INDEX
bacon (cont .) beef beef (cont.)

garlic dressing for salad, 3 5 3 bouillon, broth, M 14 tenderloin, 194-5
quiche with cheese, 3 8 5 braised, M 243 thick, broiled, M 210
and three kernels, 3 3 9 bottom round, stuffed, 245 steak tartar, 19 8
baker's oven, 37, 41 brisket, smothered, 249 stews and ragouts
baker's tools, 464-5 flank, stuffed, 246 boeuf Bourguignon, 23 7
barley timing, B 242 red wine, garlic, 23 7
in Scotch broth, 215 boeuf Bourguignon, 237 sauce note, B 23 7
in three kernels, M 3 3 9 broil-roasted sirloin steak (thick), with vegetables, 23 7
Barr, Nancy, 315, 434 M 210 Zinfandel, M 236
basil, see herbs and spices chart, 492 stock, M 14
bass, ocean, striped to corn, M 260 stuffings for
braised, oven-baked, 22, 84 to cook, 261 beef, ham, olives, 186
substitute for salmon, whole, in potee Normande, 261 sausage, Swiss chard, 18 6
85, 86, 94 cuts tenderloin
broiled, 82-3 for braising, 242 general information, 194, 221
home-cured, substitute for salmon, for broil-roasting, 210 roasted, 2 2 2
130 chart, 492 steaks, sauteed, 194- 5
poached stove-top, 26, 101-4 for hamburger, 197 Beeton, Isabella, Book of Household
in soup, 11, 22-6, 31, 122 for pot roasting, 242 Management, 425, 452
in stock, B 23 for roasting, 2 18 beet(s)
whole for sauteeing, 191 removing stains, B 293
oven-roasted, 97 for steak, 191, 210 sauteed-steamed, grated, M 293
Bavarian cream, 44 8 for stews and ragouts, B 23 5 with garlic vinaigrette, 294
bean(s), dried ground beef: with herbs, 294
general information, 3 3 1-3 see also hamburger with shallots or garlic, 294
Boston baked, 3 3 5 meat loaf maison, 252 Belgian endive
brandade, 333 meat loaf, pork, M 251 general information, 3 4 8
canned, 332 steak tartar, 19 8 braised, M 299
chickpeas (garbanzo beans), in stuffing with ham, olives, 186 au gratin, 30 1
hummus, 333 hamburger sauteed in butter, 3 00
with garlic, herbs, 332 general information, 197 bell peppers, see peppers, bell
kidney in turkey wing ragout, 142 barbecued, 201 beurre manie, B 143
with lamb shanks, 241 broiled, 200 biscuits tortoni, 423
Maitre d'hotel, 332 buns, 47 black beans
open-pot cookery, M 332 grilled stove-top, 200 gazpacho soup, 3 1
pressure-cooked, M 332 sauteed, M 199 see also bean(s), dried
puree, 333 home-cured, see beef: to corn blanc, 12, 2 8 1
salad, 334 leftovers, see feasting on remains blanching, B 2 6 9
in salads, 3 5 5 liver, see calf's liver bluefish
m soups marrow, poached, B 19 braised, oven-baked, 22, 84
black bean gazpacho, 31 pan-fried, see beef: steak(s) substitute for salmon, 85, 86,
Scotch broth, 215 pot roast, M 243 94
split pea, 233 ragouts, see beef: stews and ragouts broiled, 82, 83
tripe, chick pea, 32 roasted home-cured, substitute for salmon,
tripe, white bean, 32 prime ribs, M 218 130
bean(s), fresh tenderloin, 222 roasted whole, substitute for
general information, 27 5-6 timing, B 219, B 221 salmon, trout, 97
blanching, M 2 7 6 top loin, 220 sauteed, substitute for sole, trout,
in salads, 3 5 5 sauces for, see sauce( s) for beef 98-100
Beard, James, 272 soups, see soup(s): bouillon-based boeuf Bourguignon, 237
bearnaise sauce, B 87 steak(s) Boston baked beans, 335
bechamel sauce, B 272 general information, 19 1, 192 Boston brown bread, 335
cheese, 406 broil-roasted, thick, M 210 Boston lettuce, 348
Beck, Simone, 37 sauteed, M 192 bouillon, see stock(s)
M indicates a master recipe

INDEX 495
brandade, 132 breading foods, B 99 butter (cont.)

Brandel, Catherine, 323 Bremness, Lesley, Complete Book of lemon, for fish, 83, 102
bread, 34-59 H erbs, 336 Proven~al, fish, 102
baking brioche dough, 48 ff. tomato for fish, 91
creating steam, 41 broccoli white for fish, 86
equipment, 3 7 general info rmation, 2 6 8 butter cream, see cake(s): fillings and
free-form vs. pan, 36 blanched , M 2 6 9 frostings
in a loaf pan, 45 with bread crumbs, 271 butter dough , M 3 8 1
oven-simulated, 3 7, 41 broccoli-sauced, 27 0 buttermilk
rising temperature, 3 6 with cauliflower, 27 1 corn sticks, 5 9
thermometer testing, 41 cream soup , 8, 10 rye bread, 46
timing, 37 hashed, 271 butternut squash, see squash , winter
Boston brown, 3 3 5 in cream, 271
breading foods, B 99 with mornay sauce, 27 3
brioche dough, M 48 omelette , 69
bread, 49 pizza topping, 57 cabbage
buns, sticky, 51 a la P olonaise, 271 see also sauerkraut, br aised
coffee cake, 49 qui che, 387 general information, B 2 8 8
Provern;al beehive cake, 52 sauteed with garlic, 270 braised
buns souffie, 73, 7 5 leaves, M 3 04
hamburger, 4 7 timbale, 7 1 red, shredded, 289
sticky (brioche), 5 1 in tower of crepes, 407 whole, stuffed, 3 04
buttermilk rye, 46 broth , see stock(s) coleslaw, M 3 7 5
corn sticks, 59 brown rice, s_ee rice: brown to shred, B 288
cornbread, box-top, 344 brown sauce, B 244, B 246 steamed shredded, M 289
croutons, B 24, B 3 53 Brussels sprouts with cream, 2 89
flour, gluten in, 3 8, 45 general information, 2 7 3 in wedges, M 2 8 8
free- form loaf vs. pan , 3 6 blanched, M 274 stuffings for
French bread, 3 7-44 in brown butter, 274 beef ground, ham, olives, 186
baked in a loaf pan, 44 with cheese, 274, 27 5 bulgur, mushrooms, 186
dough, M 38 with chestnuts, 27 4, 3 11 ham, bread crumb, 184
forming hashed , 27 5 sausage, Swiss chard, B 250
long loaves, 40 buche de N oel , 4 7 8 in vegetable bouquet, 3 16
round loaves, 42 Bugnard, Max, 287,4 10 Caesar salad, 3 5 2
round rolls , 43 bulgur cake(s)
rounds, toasted, B 24 m ushroom stuffing, 186 · almond
kneading, 36, 39 in Syrian salad, 214 chocolate (reine de Saba), 47 1
levain (starter), 3 6 buns Genoa, 469
loaf pan for ham burger, 4 7 meringue layers, 4 7 4-5
French bread, 44 sticky, 51 orange batter, 45 8
whole wheat bread, 45 butter in buche de Noel , 47 8
pita , cheese toasted, B 33 beaten ( pommade), 469 in holiday roulade, 4 77
rolls beurre m anie, B 143 baking round, square, 457
forming , 43 clarified , B 13 9 beehive, Proven~al, 52
hard, M 38 creaming, B 193 chocolate almond (reine de Saba) ,
soft, 47 flavored fo r fish , meat , 193-4 471
sandwich, 4 7 hor seradish mustard , fo r fish , Commercy cupcakes, 48 8
starter, 3 6 meat , B 130 eggs m
tortillas, cheese-toasted, B 33 maitre d' fo r meat , 193 beating, 461
trouble shooting, 36, 45 orange fo r crepes, 4 10 folding whites, 463
walnut, 46 sauces fillings and frostings
whole wheat, M 44 black , capers, for fish, 125 apricot, 465
baked in a loaf pan, 45 brown , capers for fish, 99 butter cream
yeast, 36 with herbs for fish , 90 chocolate, 463
starter for, 44 with herbs fo r scallops, 11 7 French, 468
B a boxed special note

496 INDEX
cake(s) (cont.) caramel (cont.) cheese

meringue, 463 to make, B 421 feta-stuffed peppers, 3 06
mocha, 466 with pears in puff pastry, 43 6 gnocchi (parsley dumplings),
chocolate sauce, 420 403
amaretti , 4 7 5 on cream puffs, 399 gougeres, 403
ganache, B 4 7 6 in tarte Tatin, 434 for pizza, 5 5
meringue, 463 veil, 480 with three cheeses, 56
creme Chiboust, 402 on floating island, 446 puffs, choux pastry, 403
Italian meringue, 462 on gateau St.-Honore, 400 quiche, bacon, 385
meringue cream, 463 Cardini, Caesar, 352 Roquefort tart, puff pastry, 3 94
pastry cream, 402 carrot(s) sauce, B 272, 406
royal icing, B 487 general information, 2 8 5 souffie, M 72
white mountain, 462 angel-hair, B 294 twists, puff pastry, 3 96
genoise, M 458 boil-steamed, 286 chestnuts
Cambridge cake, 466 cream soup (Crecy), 11 general information, 3 10
layers, slicing into two, 460 glazed, 286 braised, 3 11
loaf in mirepoix, B 2 97 with Brussels sprouts, 27 4, 311
apple sauce fruitcake, 481 puree, 285 in Nesselrode ice cream, 417
honey spice, 480 sauteed-steamed, grated, 2 94 puree, 311
Madeleines, 48 8 in vegetable bouquet, 3 16 in stuffings, 3 10
meringue nut layers, 4 7 4 in vegetable ragout, 315 whole cooked, M 310
pan, to prepare, B 457 catfish chicken
pastry bag use, 460 braised, oven-baked, 22, 84 general information, 13 6
spongecake, M 45 6 substitute for salmon, 85, 86, in aspic, 145, 146
chocolate almond ( reine de 94 breasts
Saba), 4 71 oven-poached, substitute for sole, general information, 149
in kiwi trifle, 450 88-93 crepe with mushrooms, 406
ladyfingers, 487 poached stove-top, 26, 101-2, curried with mushrooms, 111
orange almond, 45 8 104 in mushroom duxelles stuffing,
in holiday roulade, 4 77 substitute for salmon, 103 B 160
roulades, jelly rolls in soups, 11, 22-26, 31, 122 in pate, 253
buche de Noel, 47 8 cauliflower poached
holiday, 4 7 7 general information, 2 6 8 in butter, 15 0
Santa Clara, 465 broccoli soup, 8 with mushrooms, cream,
syrup for imbibing, 459 gratin with spinach, 27 3 151
yellow, see cake(s): genoise; cakes: a la Polonaise, 271 with mushrooms, tomatoes
spongecake sauteed with garlic, parsley, 27 0 (chasseur), 151
calf's liver soups, 8 sauteed
general information, 2 0 8 steamed, M 270 breaded, B 99
in pate, 253 with bread crumbs, 271 in butter (meuniere), 150
sauces for, see sauce( s) for calf's broccoli-sauced, 271 crumbed slices, B 149
liver celeriac, see celery root remoulade stuffed, baked, 152
sauteed, M 208 celery timbale, 71
with bacon, 209 braised broiled, grilled
with onions, 209,210 with leeks, cold, 300 butterflied, M 154
Calvel, Raymond, 37 with mirepoix, M 297 deviled with mustard, 15 6
calzone(s), M 58 with vinaigrette, 3 00 timing, 15 5
cannellini beans, see bean(s), dried gratin, 301 broil-roasted, M 159
capon with green tapenade, 301 broth, see chicken: stock
broil-roasted, 15 8 in mirepoix, M 297 butterflying, 154
roasted, M 163 vinaigrette sauce, 300 leftovers, see feasting on
caramel celery root remoulade (mustard), remams
apple mountain, 430 375 legs, stuffed, 154
custard, 444, 44 5 Chamberlain_, Samuel, 367 livers, see chicken liver( s)

INDEX 497
chicken (cont.) chocolate (cont.) cookies (cont.)

poached amaretti truffles, 48 5 meringue nut, 437
breasts, see chicken: breasts ganache truffles, B 4 7 6, 48 5 royal icing for, B 43 7
in potee Normande, 261 lace wafers, 484 spiced dough, 486
pot pie, 148 cream puff, 3 99 sugar
poussins, B 164 decorations, shapes, B' 4 7 3 pate sablee, M 489
ragouts, see chicken: stews and ganache, B 476 for tarts, 43 7
ragouts to melt, 464 from puff pastry
roasted, M 163 mocha sour cream sherbet, 41 7 coques, elephant tongues, 490
small chickens, B 164 mousse, 451, B 476 palmiers, palm leaves, ele-
timing, 164 sauces, 422 phant ears, 491
sauces for, see sauce(s) for poultry souffle, 77 sables, 489
sauteed, M 137 choucroute garnie, 204 tartlets, 490
general information, 13 6 choux pastry (pate-a-choux), see pas- tuiles (almond), 4 83
dietary note, 13 8 try: choux corn, dried
Marengo, 140 chowder(s), see soup(s) see also cornmeal
with mushrooms, cream, 140 clafoutis, 442-3 hominy
with onion, potato, 139 clam(s) au gratin, 340
piperade, 13 8 general information, B 2 2 sauteed with herbs, 340
Provern_;al, tomatoes, garlic, 139 broiled with garlic, 12 0 in tripe soup, 32
in soups, see soup(s) in New England chowder, 2 1 grits au gratin, 341
stews and ragouts pizza topping, 57 corn, fresh
blanquette, wine sauce, 147 clam chowder, 2 1 salad, hot, 376
coq au vin, 142 cod, fresh soups
onions, red wine, M 141 braised, oven-baked, 22, 84 cream, 12
pot pie, 148 whole, oven-roasted, substitute New England chowder, 23
waterzooi, 14 7 for salmon, 85, 86, 94 with tripe, 33
with white wine, M 144 broiled, 82-3 timbales, M 7 0
stock, M 4, 5 , 16, B 13 7 poached stove-top, 26, 101-2, Cornish game hens, see game hen( s)
stuffings for 104 cornmeal
mushroom duxelles, B 160 substitute for salmon, 103 general information, 3 4 1, 3 44
sausage roasted whole, substitute for in Boston brown bread, 335
cornbread, sage, 184 salmon, trout, 97 buttermilk cornsticks, 59
crouton, 184 in soups, 11, 22-6, 31, 122 cornbread, box top, 344
parsley, B 15 5 in stock, B 23 in stuffing with sausage, 184
chicken liver(s) cod, salt dough for pizza, 54
crepe filling, 407 balls with egg sauce, 131 Jonnycakes, 344
mousse, 146 brandade, 132 polenta, M 342
omelette, 69 in chowder, 22 with cheese, 343
with onions, 210 coffee cake dough (brioche), 48 with cream cheese, 342
timbale, 71 coleslaw, M 37 5 family style, 342
chickpeas (garbanzo beans), compotes, 441-2 galettes, 343
in hummus, 333 confit, 18 0 au gratin, 343
in soup, 32 consomme, 15, 16 in scrapple, 2 5 6
with tripe, 32 cookies coq au vin, 142
chili peppers, feta-stuffed, 3 06 almond bar, 482 coquilles Saint Jacques, 117
chocolate almond wafers ( tuiles), 4 83 court bouillon, 8 1
almond cake ( reine de Saba), 4 7 1 chocolate crab(s)
cake filling and frosting amaretti truffles, 4 8 5 curried with mushrooms, 112
amaretti, 4 7 5 ganache truffles, B 476, 485 filling
ganache, B 4 7 6 lace wafers, 4 84 · for cream puffs, 401
meringue, 463 gingerbread men, 486 for crepes, 407
soft, 472 lady fingers, 487 for eggs, B 63
cookies Madeleines, 48 8 mayonnaise, 365

498 INDEX
crab(s) (cont.) curried soups, 11 dessert( s) (cont.)

omelette, 69 cusk orange butter, 410
quiche, 387 braised, oven-baked, 22, 84 pastry cream, M 402
salad, 365, 37 5 substitute for salmon, 85, 86, raspberry, B 419
souffie, 73, 7 5 94 strawberry, B 41 9
cracklings, B 18 0 in soups, 11, 22-6, 31, 122 zabaione, B 453
with foie gras, curly endive, 183 custard tarts, 3 92-5, 43 1-7
cranberries caramel, 444, 44 5 dolphin, see mahi-mahi
chutney, 177 cinnamon toast flan, 445 dough
crisp, 429 clafoutis, 442-3 see specific dough: brioche dough;
relish, 165 creme anglaise, M 446 pastry; pizza( s)
cream, whipped, B 440 in Bavarian cream, 448 kneading techniques, 36, 38-9
in cream puffs, 40 1 in floating island, 446 duck
in sauce mousseline, B 87 in ice cream, 416 general information, 17 6, 178
cream puff pastry, see pastry: choux in kiwi trifle, 450 breasts sauteed, 180
cream sauce, see bechamel sauce filling for pastries confit, 180
cream soups, 5-13, 121-3 creme Chiboust, 402 cracklings, B 18 0
bisques, 121 ff pastry cream, M 402 leftovers, see feasting on remains
rice-based, 5-8 pumpkin souffie, 449 legs, thighs
variations, B 11 sauces confit, 18 0
veloute, 8-13 creme anglaise, M 446 crumbed, 17 8
creme anglaise, see custard: sauces pastry cream, M 402 mousse, 182
creme fraiche, B 7 creme Chiboust, 402 pounded, sauteed, 180
crepes zabaione, B 453 ragout with onion fondue, 181
all-purpose, M 40 5 savory, see quiche(s); timbale(s) salad, warm, 370
dessert, 405 souffie, pumpkin, 449 steam-roasted, 18 1
fillings, 40 8-11 timbale, 70-1 pate, 254
main course, 406-8 roasted, 17 8
Suzette, 410 parcels, 18 1
croute, 24 dacquoise tartlets, 437 sauce ragout, B 182
croutons Daguin, Andre and Ravel, Anne de, spice marinade for, B 203
deep fried, 140 Foie Gras, Magret and steam-roasted
in sausage stuffing, 184 Other Good Food from Gas- legs, thighs, 18 1
toasted, B 24, B 3 53 cony, 183 whole, 176
wild rice, B 15 5 Darr, Sally and John, 324 duck liver, see foie gras
cucumber(s) dessert(s) duxelles, see mushroom(s)
general information, 296, 355 apple, 424-3 5
creamed, 2 9 6 cakes, 45 6-82
cream soup, 7 clafoutis, 442-3 eclairs, 3 9 8
fool, 6 compotes, 441-2 eggplant
julienned, 296, 356 cookies, 482-91 general information, 290
to remove the bite, B 3 5 6 cream puffs, 399-401 caviar, 333
in salads, 3 5 5 crepes, 405, 408-11 in moussaka, 3 19
cooked, 357 custard, 444-50 parmigiano, 3 18
cooked with herbs, 3 57 eclairs, 3 9 8 pizza, miniature, 3 18
sauce for fish, 103 frozen, 414-23 quiche, 387
slices glazes in ratatouille, M 3 17
flavored, 3 5 6 apricot, B 427 sauteed with onions, parsley, 2 91
in sour cream, 3 5 6 red currant, B 437 souffie, 292
soups sauces steamed, parsley sauce, M 291
cream, 7 bourbon cream, 429 egg(s), 60-77
chicken, vegetable, 6 caramel, 420 see also quiche( s); souffie(s);
fool, B 6 chocolate, 422 timbale(s)
with spinach, 296 creme anglaise, M 446 general information, 61
currant glaze, red, B 437 creme Chiboust, 402 beating techniques, 461

INDEX 499
egg( s) (cont.) Farmer, Fannie, 336 fish (cont.)

in cakes, see cake(s) feasting on remains sauces for, see sauce( s) for fish
fried garnish fish, shellfish sauteed, 98-100
for chicken Marengo, 140 in aspic, 26 to serve whole, B 96
for vegetable ragout, 3 16 coquilles, poached, 103 in souffie, 7 3
frittata with vegetables, 316 salads, 104,365,375 soups, see soup(s): fish
hard-boiled, M 62 with tonnato, 373 steamed, see fish: braised, baked
to peel, B 62 ham stock, B 23
stuffings for, B 63, B 301 gratin, potatoes, 234 substitutes, 81
omelette(s), M 6 8 split pea soup, 233 stuffed fillets, 92
fillings, 69, B 90 turnip cakes, eggs, 264 timing, 82, B 97
pan, 67 meat types
serving a crowd, 69 Chinese manicotti, 264 for braising, 84, 94
poached, M 64 hash, 263 for broiling, B 82
in aspic, 65 meat loaf maison, 2 52 for mousse, 123
in garlic soup, 31 moussaka, 319 for poaching, oven, B 8 8
with ham, turnip cakes, 264 salads, 214, 250 stove-top, B 100
salad, curly endive, bacon, 354 poultry for sauteeing, B 9 8
with mushrooms, 64 Chinese manicotti, 2 64 for stock, B 23
on vegetable ragout, 3 16 hash, 263 whole
sauces, B 87 meat loaf maison, 252 braised, 94-6
sauces for, see sauce( s) for eggs salads, 370-4 oven-roasted, 97
scrambled, M 65-6 quiche, B 3 87 to serve, B 96
burritos, 66 rice, 369, 370 flambeing, B 411
dilled, cold, 66 sauces for fleurons, 3 9 5
tortillas, 66 garlic, anchovy, 214 flounder
timbale (molded custard), 70-1 green tapenade, B 301 sauteed, substitute for sole, trout,
warning, 61 tonnato, 372 98-100
whites timbales, 7 0 insoup, 11,22-6,31, 122
beating, 461 fennel in Calzone filling, 5 8 in stock, B 23
folding, 72, 463 fillings flour
yolks, beating with sugar, 461 dessert, see cake( s) in beurre manie, B 143
Ellis, Merle, Cutting Up in the hard-boiled eggs, B 63, B 301 vs. cornstarch in pastry cream,
Kitchen, 23 5 rolled souffies, 7 4- 5 401
endive, Belgian, see Belgian endive finnan haddie chowder, 22 gluten in, 45
endive, curly fish measuring, B 3 8 0
bacon, garlic dressing, 353, 354 see also individual names in pastry crusts, 3 81
with foie gras, cracklings, 183 general information, 80-2, 88 white, 38
equipment ahead of time, 92 foie gras
baking, 464-5 aspic, Mediterranean, 36 general information, 183
for baking pizza, 5 5 braised, baked, 84-6 pate with prunes, 18 5
blow torch, B 27 broiled, 82-3 salad, 370-2
cast-iron grills, B 190 chowder, 22 sauteed with cracklings, 183
corn scraper, 3 7 6 to cook whole, 94-7 folding techniques, 72, 463
meat grinder, 2 5 8 court bouillon, 81 food poisoning, see warnings
mouli julienne, B 294 curried soup, 11 food processor, for bread dough,
omelette pans, 67 leftovers, see feasting on remains 38 ff.
for poaching fish, B 94 low-fat, 84 Forestier, Danielle, 3 7
sausage stuffer, 2 5 8 meuniere, 98, 99 French bread, 3 7-44
Escoffier, Auguste, Guide Culinaire, oven-roasted, 97 frostings and icings , see cake(s): fill-
275 pan frying, see fish: sauteed ings and frostings
poached, oven, 88-93 fruit(s)
stove-top, 101-3 see also individual names
Faria, Susan, Northeast Seafood Book, poacher, B 94 berry tart, 437
114 safe handling, B 8 0 bowl, large, 453

500 INDEX
fruit( s) (cont .) garnishes (cont.) haddock (cont. )

candied peels, B 415 cracklings, duck, B 18 0 poached stove-top, 26, 101-2,
filling, cream puff, 400 creme frai'che, B 7 104
glaceed warning, 416 croutons, 140 substitute for salmon, 103
glazes toasted, B 2 4, B 3 53 sauteed, as for sole, trout
apricot, B 427 fleurons, puff pastry, 3 9 5 in soups, 11, 22-6, 31,122
red currant, B 43 7 garlic cloves, B 3 21 in stock, B 23
syrup for poaching, 441 mushroom caps, 312 haddock, smoked, see finnan haddie
fluted, B 3 13 chowder
oxtail dumplings, 18 hake
pita triangles, 33 braised, oven-baked, 22, 84
game hen(s) potatoes, diced, 327 substitute for salmon, 85, 86,
broiled split, 157 prune, apple, 177 94
roasted, B 164 sausage cakes, 33 in soups, 11, 22-6, 31, 122
salad, 371 tomatoes, diced, 3 5 8 in stock, B 23
ganache, see chocolate wild rice croutons, B 155 hake, silver, see whiting
garbanzo beans, see chickpeas gateau, see cake(s) halibut
garlic gazpacho, 31 braised , oven-baked, 22, 84
a1go bou·ido, 3 0 black bean, 3 1 substitute for salmon, 85, 86,
basil, sauce for soup (pistou), genoise, see cake( s) 94
B 29 Georgia Egg Board, 62 broiled, 82-3
braised cloves, B 321 glazes mousse(s), 92, 123-8
with artichokes, 2 82 apricot, B 427 substitute for sole, trout, 126,
in beef stew, 23 7 red currant, B 43 7 128
in cream, B 321 gnocchi, see pastry: choux poached stove-top, 26, 101-2,
in turkey wing ragout, 142 goose 104
butter, 194 spice marinade for, B 203 substitute for salmon, 103
on mussels, clams, 120 steam-roasted, 17 4 in soups, 11, 22-6, 31, 122
on oysters, M 119 stock, 17 5 in stock, B 23
mashed potatoes, 321 stuffings for ham, smoked shoulder
to mince, puree, B 3 5 0 prune, apple, sausage, 18 5 braised whole, M 23 0
to peel, B 2 83 prune, liver pate, 18 5 in endive gratin, 301
rouille, B 2 5 goose liver, see foie gras filling
in salad dressings, 3 5 0 great northern beans, see bean(s), crepe, 407
sauce for soup (rouille), B 25 dried souffie with mushrooms, 7 5
m sauces grapefruit gravy, cream, 2 3 2
with anchovies for meats, 214 candied peel, B 41 5 leftovers, see feasting on remains
bacon dressing, 3 5 3 pink, sherbet, 414 in mirepoix, B 2 97
basil, cheese ( pistou), B 3 0 gravlaks, 13 0 omelette, 6 9
green tapenade, B 3 0 1 gravy, see ham, smoked shoulder; sauces for, see sauce(s) for ham
with mustard, for ham 234 turkey steaks, wine, M 206
persillade, 113 grits, see corn, dried with cream, mushrooms, 2 0 6
pistou, B 30 guacamole, 3 5 5 with Madeira cream sauce, 206
Provenc;al, 10 2 Guerard, Michel, 370 with peas , potatoes, 206
rouille, B 25 Gurney-Piskula, Beth, 434 stock, 233
vinaigrette, 3 51 in stuffings
with grated beets, 2 94 beef, olives, pine nuts, 186
soups, 3 0 ff. Haeberlin brothers, 86 bread crumb, 184
a1go boui:do , 3 0, 3 1 haddock bulgur, mushroom, 186
chicken, Provenc;al, 3 0 braised, oven-baked, 22, 84 timbale, 71
fish, Provenc;al, 3 1 substitute for salmon, 85, 86, timing, B 231
potato, Provenc;al, 31 94 hamburger( s), see beef
garnishes broiled, 82-3 hazelnut(s)
beef marrow, B 19 oven-poached, substitute for sole, brittle (pralin), 423
bread rounds, B 24 88-93 meringue layers, 4 7 4, 4 7 5

INDEX 501
hazelnut( s) (cont.) horseradish (cont.) lamb (cont.)

to pulverize, B 4 7 4 mustard butter for gravlaks, B sauces for, see sauce(s) for lamb
to toast, B 423 130 in Scotch broth, 215
herbs and spices mustard sauce for beef, B 220 stews and ragouts
basil hummus, 333 shanks
in pasta salad, 3 6 8 general information, B 241
in pistou, B 3 0 with beans, 241
bay leaf, whole, B 336 with lentils, 241
with beets, grated, 294 ice cream shoulder
bouquet, B 336 see also sherbet with potatoes, onions, 241
butter, 194 cake, multilayered, 418 printaniere, 23 9
butter sauce, for fish, 90 chocolate ganache, B 4 7 6 wine, rosemary, 23 8
for scallops, 11 7 mocha chocolate sour cream, 417 stock, 215
cinnamon toast flan, 445 mocha-rum, 418 Larousse Gastronomique, 320
in cooked cucumbers, 3 57 N esselrode, 41 6 Legal Seafoods, Inc. , 8 0
dill puffs, 401 leeks
gravlaks, 130 raspberry, 416 braised, 298
scrambled eggs, cold, 66 sauces, see dessert(s): sauces with celery, cold, 3 0 0
fennel sausages, 259 strawberry, 416 au gratin, 301
with hominy, 340 vanilla loaf, 42 0 potato-based soups, M 13, 14
mayonnaise, 3 64 chilled, 13
mustard coating for lamb, B 213 cream, 13
omelette, 69 pureed, 13
parsley jalousies, see tart(s) spinach, 14
with cauliflower, 27 0 jelly rolls, see cake(s): spongecake vegetable, 14
cheese dumplings (gnocchi), John Dory (St. Peter fish) watercress, 14
403 mousse(s), 92, 123-8 quiche, 388
in deglazing sauce, 192 substitute for sole, trout, 126, vegetables, steamed, 3 16
with lemon, 207 128 leftovers, see feasting on remains
eggplant, onions, 2 91 oven-poached, substitute for sole, lemon(s)
in green tapenade, B 301 88-93 almond souffie base, 409
lemon butter for fish, 8 3 poached stove-top, 2 6, 10 1-2, 104 in crepes, 407
in persillade, 113 substitute for salmon, 103 butter for fish, 83, 102
in salads, 349 Joyo/Cooking, 335 candied peel , B 415
sauce, eggplant, 291 deglazing sauce, 207
with scallops, M 115 in eggplant caviar, 333
stuffing, sausage, B 155 in maitre d'Hotel butter, 193
rosemary, lamb stew, 23 8 kidney beans, see bean(s), dried oil dressing, M 3 5 0
saffron rice, 330 kiwi trifle, 45 in salad dressing, 3 5 0
sage, sausage stuffing, 184 sherbet, M 4 14
in salad Mimosa, 3 52 lentils, M 337
scallops, butter, 117 general information, 3 3 7
sole, white butter, 90 lamb with lamb shanks , 241
spice marinade, B 203 kabobs, broiled, 213 maitre d'hotel, 337
tarragon lamburgers, 201 puree, 337
cream with veal, 205, 208 leftovers, see feasting on remains salad, 33 8
wine, veal, 205 in moussaka, 319 in Scotch broth, 215
tomato sauce for fish, 84 mustard coating, B 213 soup, 33 8
vinaigrette, 3 51 ragouts, see beef: stews and ragouts lettuce( s), see salad( s): greens
Hirtzler, Victor, 3 0 0 roasted liver, see calf's liver; chicken liver(s);
hollandaise sauce, B 87 leg, M 224 foie gras
hominy butterflied, broil-roasted, 212 lobster
soup with tripe, 32 timing, B 224 general information, 104, 105
see corn, dried rack, 226 a l'Americaine, 106
horseradish shoulder, 226 broth, 106

502 INDEX
lobster (cont.) mango cream puff filling, 400 monkfish (cont .)

crepe, 407 marrow, beef, poached, B 19 substitute for salmon, 85, 86,
curried with mushrooms, 112 Mastering the Art of French Cooking 94
mayonnaise, 365 11, 37 poached stove-top, 26, 101-2,
omelette, 6 9 mayonnaise, M 363 104
quiche, 387 general information, 363-4 substitute for salmon, 103
salad, 365, 37 5 stuffing for eggs, B 63 in soups, 11, 22-6, 31, 122
sauce, red, 106 trouble shooting, B 3 64 in stock, B 23
sauteed with wine, cream, 107 variations, 3 64-5 Morash, Marian, The Victory Garden
souffie, 73, 7 5 rouille, B 25 Cookbook, 86, 320
steamed, M 105 tartar sauce, B 100 mornay sauce, B 272
stew, 108 meat loaf, M 251, 252 Moulton, Sara, 324
stuffing for eggs, B 63 meat( s), see individual names moussaka, 319
low-fat cookery books on, 190, 235 mousse(s)
apple snow, 425 braised, 230, 235-50 dessert
braised brisket, 249 broil-roasted, 210-17 chocolate, 451
on cast-iron grills, B 190 roasted, 217-3 0 chocolate ganache, B 4 7 6
chicken, wine, M 144 sauces for, see sauce( s) for beef, savory
compotes, 441, 442 pork, etc. general information, 12 3
fish sauteed, 191-210 chicken liver, 146
braised with vegetables, 84 stuffings for duck leg, 182
broiled au naturel, 83 beef, ham, olives, 186 fish , 92, 123-8
poached, 88-93, 101-3 mushroom duxelles, B 160 shrimp quenelles, 126
hamburger, stove-top, 200 sausage, Swiss chard, 186 mushroom(s)
mussels, steamed, 120 terminology, 190 general information, 311, 312
potee au Normande, 261 The Meat Board Guide to Identifying in bulgur stuffing, 186
scallops, 117 Meat Cuts, 190 caps, broiled, 3 12
scalloped potatoes, 322 meringue( s) fluted, B 3 13
sherbets, 414-17 dacquoise tartlets, 43 7 simmered, 312
soups, nee fillings and frostings stuffed, 313
cucumber fool, B 6 butter cream, 463 with chicken, cream, 140, 151
lobster stew, 10 8 chocolate, 463 crepe with chicken, 406
low-fat, discussed, 5 for cream puffs, 399-401 curried with chicken, 111
onion-based, 5-6 creme Chiboust, 402 curried with shellfish, 111
thickening sauces, B 244 white mountain, 462 duxelles, B 314
vegetables in floating island, 446 in cream sauce, B 71
blanched, steamed, 269-91 Italian, 402, 462 egg stuffing, B 63
zucchini, onions, 2 9 5 with pastry cream, 402 poultry stuffing, B 160
zucchini, spinach, 2 9 5 holiday roulade, 4 77 with wild rice, 33 1
Lucas, Dione, 67 mushrooms, 479 with eggs, poached, 64
nut cookies, 43 7 with ham steaks, cream, 206
Swiss, 474 omelette, 69
nut layers, 474 with persillade, 313
mackerel in Montecito cake, 4 7 5 pizza topping, 57
braised whole, substitute for meuniere with pork, cream, 203
salmon, 94 sole, 98 sauces
roasted whole, substitute for trout, trout, 99 cream for ham timbale, B 71
salmon, 97 mincemeat pie, 43 9 deglazing for beef, 199
Madeleines, see cookies mirepoix, B 2 97 with scallops, cream, 117
Mah, Maggie, 416,481 with celery, M 2 97 with shrimp, 113
mahi-mahi with wild rice, 3 3 0 with sole, white wine, 91
broiled, 82-3 Mondavi, Robert, 86 sou:ffie, ham , 7 5
mako, see shark monkfish soup, 9
Man ell, Rosemary, 53, 58 braised, oven-baked, 22, 84 in tower of crepes, 407

INDEX 503
mushroom( s) (cont.) onion(s) (cont.) pastry bag, 46 0

with veal, tarragon, 205 in mirepoix, B 2 97 pastry
in vegetable ragout, 3 15 pea filling for fish mousse, 12 8 butter ( pate brisee fine), M 3 8 I
mussels to peel, B 2 87 dietary note, 3 8 I
general information, 11 9 quiche, 386, 388 choux (pate-a-choux), M 396
broiled with garlic, 120 to remove bite, 3 5 8 cheese dumplings, 403
in sole timbales, 12 8 in salad dressing, 3 5 8 cheese puffs, 403
soup with vegetables, 121, 122 sauteed cream puffs, 401
steamed with white wine, M 120 with beef, mushrooms, 195 eclairs, 398
mustard with calf's liver, 209, 210 in gateau Paris-Brest, 400
butter, 194 with chicken, potatoes, 13 9 gnocchi, 403
with horseradish, B 13 0 with chicken liver, 210 gougeres, 403
coating for lamb, B 213 with eggplant, parsley, 291 in mousse, 124, 12 8
herb coating for chicken, 15 6 with zucchini, peppers, 295 as pastry cream, 400
in salad dressing, 350 soups profiteroles, 401
sauces base with rice, M 6 puffs
garlic for ham gratin, 234 curried, 11 cheese, 403
for ham, 232 French onion, 19 fillings, 399-403
horseradish for beef, B 220 in potato leek soup, 13 forming, baking, 397, 398
remoulade, 3 7 5 stuffed, M 3 02 in gateau Paris-Brest, St.-
with wine for calf's liver, 209 stuffing with rice, 3 03 Honore, 400
orange(s) for Nic;oise salad, 400
almond cakes cream ( creme patissiere), 40 2
holiday roulade, 4 77 from choux pastry, 40 0
National Livestock and Meat Board, spongecake, 4 5 8 cornstarch vs. flour, 40 I
190 butter, in crepes, 41 o creme Chiboust, 402
navy beans, see bean(s), dried candied peel, B 415 cream puffs, 399, 400
N esselrode,, Carl von, 416 sherbet, 414 in gateau Paris-Brest, 400
nut(s), see individual names in souffie Grand Marni er, 7 7 ice cream, 403
orange roughy in trifle, 403
oven-poached, substitute for sole, puff ( pate feuilletee), M 3 8 9
88-93 general information, 3 8 8, 3 8 9
oil(s), see salad(s): dressings ossobucco, 240 appetizers, 394-6, 391
olives oxtail cookies, 490-1
in green tapenade, B 301 dumplings, 18 leftover, B 396
in stuffing with ham, beef, 186 soup, 17 fleurons, 3 9 5
omelette(s), see egg( s): omelettes oysters mock puff pastry, B 3 92
onion(s) general information, I I 8 , 11 9 rectangles ( feuilletes), 3 91
anchovy tart, 57, 3 93 with artichokes, wine sauce, 2 82 tarts, 392-5
baked, 314 bisque, 122 shells
gratineed, 3 15 broiled with garlic, M 119 see also tart( s)
braised stew variation, 122 freeform, 3 84, 432
brown, 287 jalousie (peekaboo), 3 9 5
with rice (soubise), 330 open-faced, 394
white, 286 parsley, see herbs and spices in quiche ring, 3 8 2
browned sliced, B 209 parsnip puree, cream, 286 store shells, 3 83
caramelized quarters, 315 pasta upside-down, 3 83
creamed, 287 with chicken piperade, 138 pates, terrines
curried for eggs, B 63 Chinese manicotti, 2 64 country, 2 53
with fish steaks, 84 cooked for salads, M 367 duck, 254
fondue with duck ragout, 181 Marco Polo, 3 6 8 prune, liver stuffing, 18 5
in lamb stew, potatoes, 241 printaniere, 3 68 scrapple, 2 5 6
marinated, 359 · with tomato, basil, 368 spice marinade for, B 203
marmalade, B 2 09 sauces, see sauce( s) for pasta pattypan squash, stuffed, 3 08

504 INDEX
peach filling for cream puffs, 400 pizza( s) (cont.) potato( es) (cont.)
peanut brittle, 422 onion, anchovy, 57, 393 general information, 320
pear(s) pita bread, 5 5 Anna, stove-top, 325
caramelized, 436 toppings, 5 6-7, B 90 with fish, baked, 22
clafouti, 442 tomato, three cheeses, 5 6 galettes, grated, 324
compote, 442 to top and bake, 5 5 oven-roasted, 326
crepe filling, 409 tortilla, 5 5 garlic sauce (rouille) for, B 25
poached, glazed, 442 plum pudding, 452 in ham gratin, 234
tarts, 3 93, 3 94, 434, 43 5 Point, Fernand, 473 in lamb stew with onions, 241
. . .
peas po1somng, see warmngs mashed, M 320
boil-steamed, 3 87 polenta, see cornmeal in brandade, 132
onions in fish mousse, 12 8 pollack in codfish balls, 131
peas, dried, see bean(s), dried braised, oven-baked, 22, 84 duchess, 322
peppers, bell substitute for salmon, 85, 86, garlic, 321
general information, 3 6 0 94 in golden puree, 2 8 5
in deglazing sauce for beef, 199 in soups, 11, 22-6, 31, 122 omelette, cheese, 69
feta-stuffed, 3 06 pork salad
julienned, 3 60 see also ham, smoked shoulder; American , 3 62
to peel, 3 60 sausage(s) to cook for, M 361
peeled, roasted, 3 6 1 burgers, 2 0 1 French, 362
in piperade, B 90 chops sauteed
quiche, 3 88 general information, 2 0 2 with beef, mushrooms, 19 5
in ratatouille, M 317 choucroute garnie, 204 with chicken, onions, 139
red sweet in duck pate, 254 diced, 327
in piperade, B 90 sauteed, 202 scalloped
quiche, 3 8 8 with cream, mushrooms, in cream, 323
roasted 203 dauphinoise, M 322
mayonnaise, 3 64 to corn, M 260 stove-top, 323
garlic sauce (rouille), B 25 in potee Normande, 261 Savoyarde, 322
with zucchini, onions, 295 leftovers, see feasting on remains soups
pepper(s), chili, feta stuffed, 306 liver in pate, 253 leek, 13
persillade in meat loaf with beef, 2 5 1 Proven~al gar lie, 3 1
with mushrooms, 3 13 ragouts, see beef: stews and ragouts in vegetable bouquet, 3 15
with shrimp, 113 ribs in vegetable ragout , 315
Petrale sole, see sole back, country, 217 poultry, see individual names
pheasant salad, 3 71 broiled, M 2 16 braised, stewed, 140-8
pie( s), see tart( s) roasted broiled, broil-roasted, 154-60
pineapple sherbet, 415 leg, M 228 leftover, see feasting on remains
pine nuts loin raw, safe handling, 13 6
in salad with poultry, 371 general information, 2 2 9 roast~d, 161-82
in stuffing with beef, ham, 186 butterflied, 211 salmonella in, 136
pinto beans, see bean( s), dried whole, 229 sauces for, see sauce( s)
piperade, B 90 timing, 227, B 231 for poultry
pissaladiere, 57, 3 9 3 salt, blanching, B 142 sauteed, 13 6-40
pistou, B 30 sauces for, see sauce(s) for pork stuffings
in soup, 29 sausage, see sausage(s) general information, B 16 1
pita bread shoulder bulgur, mushroom, 186
cheese toasted, B 33 in sausage meat, 257 cornbread, sausage, 184
pizza, 5 5 stew with vegetables, 240 duck leg mousse, 182
triangles, 33 spice marinade for, B 203 meat loaf maison, 252
pizza(s) stews and ragouts, 240 mushroom duxelles, B 160
cheese for, 5 5 tenderloin, sauteed, 196 prune, liver pate, 185
dough, M 53 trichinosis in, 227 rice, giblet, 18 5
cornmeal, 54 potage Crecy, 11 sausage
eggplant, miniature, 318 potato( es) crouton, 184

INDEX 505
poultry (cont.) rabbit salad( s) (cont.)

parsley, crumbs, B 15 5 deviled, 157 avocado, 3 54-5
prune, apple, 18 5 ragout, 143 bean , 333-4
poussin(s), roasted, B 164 sauce for, B 157 cabbage, 37 5
pralin, 422, 423 raspberries celery root, 3 7 5
profiteroles, 401 filling for cream puffs, 400 chicken, see salad(s): main course
Proust, Marcel, 48 8 ice cream, 416 coleslaw, 3 7 5
Provern;al recipes sauce, B 419 composed, see salad(s): main
general information, 13 9 sherbet, 416 course
bean brandade, 333 tart, 437 corn, 376
beehive cake, 52 ratatouille, M 3 17 cucumber, 356-7
brandade de morue, 132 red snapper, see snapper dressings
butter sauce, 102 Reggie the Butcher, Save Money Buy- bacon, garlic , 3 53
chicken, 139 ing Meat, 23 5 garlic, anchovy, 214
fish in aspic, 26 remoulade (mustard sauce), 37 5 mayonnaise, 363-5
piperade, B 90 Repertoire de la Cuisine, 8 8, 3 2 0 oils for, 349
with chicken, 13 8 nee oil and lemon , M 3 5 0
with fish, 90 general information, B 3 2 9 sweet and sour, 3 7 0
omelette, B 90 in Bavarian cream, 448 vinaigrettes, 350-1
in rolled souffie, 7 5 boiled, M 327 celery, 300
quiche, tomato, 3 86 braised (risotto), 328 garlic, 294
ratatouille, M 3 17 curried, 32 8 proportions, 3 5 0
sauces with onions, 330 vinegars for, 349
pistou, B 29 brown, three kernels, 339 duck, warm, 370
rouille, B 25 onion soup base, M 6 eggplant, 291, 333
scallops, gratineed, 117 soups, 5-8, 11 fish, see salad(s): main course
soups pistou sauce for, B 3 0 green salads
garlic, 30, 31 saffron, 330 Caesar, 3 52
Mediterranean fish, M 24 salads, 369-70 curly endive, 3 53, 3 54
Santa Barbara stew, 24 stuffing with giblets, 185 salade mimosa, 3 52
soupe de poisson, 26 onion, cheese, 3 03 tossed , M 3 51
vegetable, pistou, 2 9 types, B 329 greens, 348-9
stuffed tomatoes, 3 06 wild, see wild rice lentil, 33 8
prune(s) risotto, 328 mam course
almond crepe filling, 409 rockfish in soup, 26 fish , 104, 3 7 3
apple garnish, goose, 177 Rogers, Fred, 368 meat, 214, 250, 372-3
apple, sausage stuffing, 18 5 rolls Ni<;oise, 365-6
liver pate stuffing, 18 5 forming, 43 pasta, 3 67-9 , M 3 67
Puck, Wolfgang, 5 5 hard, 3 8 poultry, 3 7 0-A
puff pastry, see pastry: puff _ soft, 4 7 rice, 369-70
pumpkin rouille, B 25 shellfish, 3 6 5, 3 7 3 , 3 7 5
pie, 43 8 roulade (rolled souffie), 7 4 with tonnato, 3 72-3
souffie, cold, 449 roux onions, marinated, 3 59
soup served in, 2 8 brown, B 246 peppers, roasted , 3 61
in soups, sauces, B 9 potato , 361-2, M 361
rutabaga( s) tomato, 3 57-9
quenelles, 12 5 in golden puree, 2 8 5 salmon
shrimp, tomato sauce, 126 gratin, 286 braised, oven-baked, 84
quiche(s) sauteed-steamed, grated, 2 94 au nature!, 8 5
general information, 3 84 rye bread (buttermilk), 46 with onions, 22, 84
crustless, 3 8 8 with scallop mousseline, 86
dietary note, 3 84 with white butter sauce, 86
fillings, 3 84-8 Saint-Honore, gateau, 400 whole in wine , M 94
leftover, B 387 St._Peter fish, see John Dory in wine, tomatoes, M 84
Lorraine, 3 8 5 salad(s) broiled, 82-3

506 INDEX
salmon (cont.) sauce(s) (cont.) sauces for fish (cont.)

coho, substitute for sole, 98 mayonnaise, 363 deglazing, wine, 192
home-cured, 13 0 mornay, B 27 2 egg ( for codfish balls), 13 2
with mustard horseradish but- mushroom, 71 garlic (rouille), B 25
ter, B 130 mustard, 232 green tapenade, B 301
mousse(s), 92, 123-8 pistou, B 30 hollandaise, B 87
substitute for sole, trout, 12 6, Port wine, 222 lemon butter, 83, 102
128 rouille, B 2 5 lobster, 106
in trout mousse, 126 roux-based, B 246 mayonnaise, pimiento, 364
poached stove-top, 26, 101-4 salsa, B 200, 291 meuniere, 98, 99
coquilles, 103 tapenade, green, B 301 mornay, B 2 7 2
with cucumber sauce, 103 tartar, B 100 mustard horseradish, B 13 0
Florentine, 103 thickeners New England egg, 13 2
piperade, 103 beurre manie, B 143 piperade, B 90
roasted whole, 97 cornstarch, B 244 Provenc;al butter, 102
sauteed, substitute for sole, trout, roux, B 246 sour cream, 12 8
98-100 slurry, B 244 tartar, B 100
souffie, 7 3 tomato, 84, 91, 102, 126, B 359 tomato, 84, 91, 102, 126
whole tonnato (tuna), 3 72 tonnato (tuna), 3 7 2
braised, 94-6 veloute, B 272 veloute, B 2 72
oven-roasted, 97 white (bechamel), B 272 white butter, 86, 90
in wine, tomatoes, M 84 vinaigrette, 350-1 wine, cream, 86
salmonella, 13 6 sauces for beef sauces for ham
salt cod, see cod, salt au jus, B 221 cream, mushroom, B 71
salt pork, see pork: salt bearnaise, B 87 Madeira cream, 206
sandwich bread, 4 7 brown, B 246 mustard, 23 2
sauce(s), see also sauces for beef, butter Port wine, 232
sauces for eggs, sauces for black with capers, 125 sauces for lamb, 225
fish, etc. flavored, 193-4 garlic, anchovy, 214
americaine (lobster), 106 mustard, horseradish, B 13 0 sauces for pasta
bearnaise, B 87 deglazing, 192, 199, B 237 butter, flavored, 193-4
bechamel, B 2 7 2 horseradish, B 220 garlic, red (:rouille), B 25
with cheese (mornay), B 272, Madeira, 222 green tapenade, B 301
406 Port wine, 222 lobster, 106
braises for, B 23 7, B 244 salsa, B 200 pistou, B 30
brown, B 244, B 246 sauces for calf's liver tonnato (tuna), 3 7 3
butter, see also butter black butter, 209 sauces for pork
black, 125 flavored butter, 209 barbecue, 21. 6
white, 86 wine mustard sauce, 209 Port wine, 229
cheese (mornay), B 272, 406 sauces for eggs tonnato (tuna), 3 7 3
chutneys, relishes bearnaise, B 87 sauces for poultry
cranberry, 16 5, 177 garlic (rouille), B 25 cranberry chutney, 177
prune apple, 177 hollandaise, B 87 cranberry relish, 165
tomato, B 359 mayonnaise, M 363, 364 deglazing, 137, 154
cream (bechamel), B 272 mushroom, cream, B 71 wine, 192
cucumber, 103 New England egg, 13 2 for marinated chicken, B 157
deglazing, 237 piperade, B 90 mayonnaise, pimiento, 364
degreasing, B 242 sauces for fish mushroom curried, 111
dessert, see dessert( s): sauces bearnaise, B 87 piperade, B 90, 103
dressings, see salad(s): dressings black butter, 12 5 ragout, B 182
egg, chopped, 13 2 brown butter, 9 8 sweet, sour, 370
garlic, B 25, B 29,214 butter, 83, 193-4 tonnato (tuna), 3 7 2
hollandaise, B 87 cream, 91 veloute, B 272
horseradish, B 220 cucumber, 103 waterzooi, 147
lobster (americaine), 106 curried mushroom, 111-12 white wine, 147

INDEX 507
sauces for shellfish sausage(s) (cont.) shellfish (cont.)

curried mushroom, 111 parsley, crumbs, B 15 5 sauces for, see sauce( s) for shellfish
garlic butter, 11 9 prune, apple, 18 5 in souffie, 7 3, 7 5
lobster, 106 Swiss chard, B 2 5 0 shells, see pastry: shells; tart(s)
persillade, 113 in vegetable ragout, 3 15 sherbet
tomato, 126 scallion vinaigrette, 3 51 grapefruit, pink, 414
white butter, 117 in salads, 3 5 8 lemon, M 414
sauces for soup scallops mocha-chocolate sour cream, 417
basil, garlic (pistou), B 29 general information, 113-15 orange, 414
garlic, red (rouille), B 25 coquilles St. Jacques, 117 pineapple, 415
sauces for stews and ragouts, B 237, curried with mushrooms, 112 raspberry, 416
B 238 in mousse( s), as for sole strawberry, 416
sauces for veal with salmon fillet, 86 shrimp
deglazing with lemon, 207 with trout, 126 general information, 10 8 , 109
tarragon, 208 poached broiled, grilled, M 109
tarragon, cream, 208 au nature!, 117 butterflied, 110
white wine, 147 in cream, 117 in chicken Marengo, 140
sauces for vegetables with mushrooms, 117 curried with mushrooms, 111
bechamel, B 2 7 2 gratineed, 117 omelette, 69
celery vinaigrette, 300 Florentine, 11 8 quenelles with tomatoes, 126
garlic, red (rouille), B 25 with tomato, 117 quiche, 384
garlic vinaigrette, 294 white butter, herbs, 117 salad, 37 5
green tapenade, B 301 in white wine, M 116 sauteed
mayonnaise, 3 64 sauteed, garlic, herbs, M 115 tabletop, 112
mornay, B 2 7 2 gratineed, 115 with mushrooms, 113
parsley, 2 9 1 in soup, garlic, fish, 31 with persillade, 113
remoulade, 3 7 5 Scotch broth, 215 with tomatoes, 113
salsa, B 200, 291 Scott, Jack Denton, Complete Book of in wine, spices, 111
veloute, B 272 Pasta, 367 souffie, 7 3, 7 5
wine, cream, 86 Scott, Karyn, 3 6 0 stuffing for eggs, B 63
sauce(s), cream, see sauce(s): scrod Simca, see Beck, Simone
bechamel braised, over-baked, 22, 84 snapper
sauce(s), white, see bechamel sauce substitute for salmon, 85, 86, sauteed, substitute for sole, trout,
sauce tartar, B 100 94 98-100
sauerkraut, braised, 2 90 Seranne, Anne, 3 63 in soups, 11, 22-6, 31, 122
in choucroute garnie, 204 shallot(s) Society for the Propagation of the
sausage(s) with beets, grated, 2 94 Jonnycake, 344
cakes, in tripe soup, 33 in salads, 3 5 8 sole
calzone, M 5 8 vinaigrette, 3 51 bonne femme, 91
in choucroute garnie, 204 shark Dover, 98
Italian style sweet, 259 braised, oven-baked, 22, 84 grenobloise, 99
leftover, see feasting on remains substitute for salmon, 85, 86, meuniere, 9 8
to make, 258 94 mousse(s), 123-8
in meat loaf, 2 5 1 broiled, 82-3 substitute for trout, 126
in pate, 253 poached stove-top, 26, 101-2, oven-poached
patties, 257 104 Duglere, 91
pizza topping, 56 substitute for salmon, 103 Florentine, 93
pork sausage meat, M 257 shellfish, see individual names mousse, gratineed, 92
in potee Normande, 261 filling with piperade, B 90
quiche with onion, 3 8 6 for eggs, B 63 white butter, herbs, 90
in scrapple, 25 6 for cream puffs, 40 1 in white wine, M 88
spice marinade for, B 203 for crepes, 407 with mushrooms, 91
in stuffings for omelettes, 6 9 with wine, tomatoes, 91
cornbread, sage, 184 quiche, 384, 387 poached stove-top, 26, 101-2, 104
crouton, 184 safety, B 80 substitute for salmon, 103

508 INDEX
sole (cont.) soup(s) (cont.) soup(s) (cont.)

sauteed, 9 8-100 broccoli, 10 soupe de poisson, 26
with brown butter, capers, 99 canned broth in, B 16 spinach, 14
meuniere, M 98 carrot ( Crecy), 11 split-pea, 233
substitute for trout, 99 cauliflower, 8 stock
in soups, 11, 22-6, 31 cauliflower, broccoli, 8 beef, 14
sole food stew, 12 2 chicken, 5, 6, 30, 32, 122 chicken, 4-5
in stock, B 23 bisque, 123 fish, 23
sorbet, see sherbet Provern;:al, 3 0 turkey, 5
soubise, 3 3 0 chickpea with tripe, 3 2 tripe, 32, 33
souffie(s), 72 ff. clam chowder, 2 1 variations, B 11
general information, 72 consomme, 16 vegetable cream, 6
collar, B 72 codfish, salt, chowder, 22 vegetable with pistou, 29
dessert, M 7 6 corn chowder, 23 vegetable soups, 16, 2 9
chocolate, 77 cream soups, 5-13 veloute soup base, M 8
crepes, 409 cucumber, 7 Vichyssoise, 13
lemon, almond base, 409 cucumber fool, B 6 watercress, 14
orange Grand Marnier, 77 curried fish, 11 zucchini, 7
pumpkin, 449 finnan haddie, chowder, 22 soup garnishes
sauces, B 77 fish, 11 , M 2 4, 2 6 , 3 1 , 10 6 , 10 8 , beef marrow, B 19
vanilla, M 76 121, 122 pread rounds, B 24
folding whites into, 72 chowder, 22 creme fraiche, B 7
savory curried, 11 fleurons, 395
cheese, M 72 garlic Proven~al, 3 1 oxtail dumplings, 18
eggplant, 292 Mediterranean, M 24 pita triangles, 33
on a platter, 7 4 French onion, 19 sausage cakes, 33
rolled (roulade), 74, 7 5 garlic, 3 0 ff tomatoes, diced , 3 5 8
variations, 7 3 a1go boui·do, 3 0, 3 1 soybeans, see bean(s), dried
soup-making Proven~al with chicken, 3 0 spare ribs, see pork
general information Proven~al with eggs, 3 1 spices, see herbs and spices
ahead of time (veloutes), B 9 Proven~al with potatoes, 3 1 spinach, M 278
all-purpose soup bases garnishes, B 7, 18, B 19, B 24, general information, 2 7 7
bouillon, 14 33, 395 braised, 27 8
chowder, 20 hominy with tripe, 32 cauliflower, mornay sauce, 27 3
fish, Mediterranean, 24 leek, potato, cream, M 13 crepe filling, 407
rice and onion puree, 5 chilled, 13 with cucumber, 296
veloute, 8 cream, 13 fish (Florentine), 93, 103
canned broth in, B 16 pureed, 13 omelette, 69
degreasing, B 242 lentil, 33 8 packets (subrics), 278
low-fat, discussed, 5 lobster broth, 106 quiche, 385
sauces for, B 25, B 29 lobster stew, 10 8 roulade (rolled souffie), 7 5
stocks mushroom, 9 scallops (Florentine), 118
beef, 14 mussel, cream, 121 souffie, 7 3, 7 5
chicken, 4-5 oxtail, 17 soup, 14
fish, 23 oyster bisque, 122 stuffing, sausage, B 250
turkey, 5 pistou, 29 timbale, 71
soup(s), 5-33, 106, 108, 121-3, potato with garlic, 3 1 with zucchini, 2 9 5
215, 233, 338 with leeks, M 13 split-pea soup, 233
a"igo bou·ido (garlic), 30, 31 pumpkin, 28 spongecake, see cake( s)
artichoke, cream, 12 rice-onion based, M 6 squab, roasted, B 164
asparagus, cream, 10 roux-based, B 9 squash, summer, see individual names
beef, 16, 17 , 19, 3 2 , 3 3 Santa Barbara stew, 24 squash, winter
black bean gazpacho, 31 Scotch broth, 2 15 angel-hair, B 294
bouillon-based, 14 ff. sole food stew, 122 boil-steamed, 284, 285
indicates a master recipe

INDEX 509
squash, winter (cont.) stuffing(s) (cont.) tart( s) (cont.)

gratin, 286 onion, rice, B 3 03 pissaladiere, 57, 393
pureed, 285 pattypan squash, 308 Roquefort, 394
stuffed, baked, 3 07 sausage, Swiss chard, B 250 shells
steak tartar, 198 sausage, crumbs, B 15 5 forming, baking, 382-5, 394-
stock(s), broth(s), bouillon three kernels, 3 3 9 5
beef, M 14 zucchini, 309 store-bought, 3 83
canned, B 16 sugar strawberry, 400,437, 490
chicken, M 4, 5, B 137 beating with eggs, 461 tarte Tatin, 434
clarifying, M 15 syrup, B 421 terrines, see pates
consomme, 16 caramel, B 421 thresher, see shark
court bouillon, 8 1 imbibing for cakes, 459 tilapia
fish, B 23 in Italian meringue, 462 oven-poached, substitute for sole,
substitutes, 81 for poaching fruits, 441 88-93
goose, 17 5 Surmain, Andre, 206 tilefish
ham, 233 sweet breads poached stove-top, 26, 101-2, 104
lamb, 215 breaded, B 9 9 substitute for salmon, 103
· lobster shell, 106 crepe filling, 407 timbale(s), 70-1, 128
turkey, 5, M 173 sweet potato( es), 3 2 1 see also quiche( s)
veal, B 248 Swiss chard stuffing, B 2 5 0 timing
strawberries swordfish beef
filling for cream puff, 400 braised, oven-baked, 22, 84 braised, B 242
ice cream, 416 substitute for salmon, 85, 86, roasted, 218-9, 221
in meringue nut tarts, 43 7 94 chicken
sauce, 409, 41 9 broiled, 82-3 broiled, 15 8
sherbet, 416 home-cured, substitute for salmon, roasted, 163, 164
tarts, 437, 490 130 fish, 82, B 97
stuffing( s) poached stove-top, 26, 101-2, 104 ham, B 231
for hard-boiled eggs, B 63, B 301 substitute for salmon, 103 lamb leg, B 224
for meat syrup(s), see sugar: syrup pork roasts, 227, B 231
beef, ham, 186 pot roasts, B 242
mushroom duxelles, B 160 turkey
sausage, Swiss chard, 186 tapenade, green, B 301 breast, poached, B 3 72
for poultry with leftovers, 3 7 3 broil-roasted, 15 8
general information, B 16 1 with celery hearts, 3 0 1 roast, B 16 8 , 16 9
bulgur, mushroom, 186 tartar sauce, B 100 toast, French bread rounds, 24
cornbread, sausage, 184 tarte Tatin, 434 tomato(es)
duck leg mousse, 182 tart( s) general information, 3 57-9
meat loaf maison, 252 apple, 393-4, 431-4 concassee, 3 5 8
mushroom duxelles, B 160 berry, 437 diced, 358
prune, liver pate, 18 5 custard, 442, 443 in pasta salad, 3 6 8
rice, giblet, 18 5 see also quiche( s) on pizza, 55, 5 6
sausage dacquoise, 43 7 quiche, 3 86
crouton, 184 glazes in ratatouille, M 317
parsley, crumbs, B 15 5 apricot, B 427 sauces
prune, apple, 18 5 red currant, B 43 7 butter for fish, 91
for vegetables meringue nut, 43 7 deglazing for beef, 199
beef, ham, olives, 186 mincemeat, 43 9 fresh, 35 8 ·
bulgur, mushroom, 186 pear, 393-4, 435-6 herbal for fish, 84
duck leg mousse, 182 puff pastry, 3 9 2-5 pizza, 5 5
ham, bread crumb, 184 pumpkin, 43 8 Proven~al for fish, 10 2
meat loaf maison, 252 savory relish, B 3 59
moussaka, 319 see also quiche( s) salsa, B 200
mushroom duxelles, B 160 onion, anchovy, 57, 393 on shrimp quenelles, 126

510 INDEX
tomato( es) (cont.) turkey (cont.) vegetables, see individual names

with scallops, 117 giblet, 174 blanched, steamed, 269-84, 288-
with shrimp, sauteed, 113 Port wine, 17 4 91
stuffed, 306, 339 leftover, see feasting on remains dietary note, B 269
tonnato ( tuna, anchovy), 3 7 2 pot pie, 148 boil-steamed, braised, 2 84-90
tortilla( s) prune, apple garnish, 177 bouquet, steamed, 3 16
cheese-toasted, B 33 ragout, wings, onions, 142 grated, sauteed-steamed, 293-6
pizza, 55 roasted, M 168 ragout, 315
trifle, kiwi, 450 breast, stuffed, 172 ratatouille, M 317
tripe soups, 32, 33 re-assembled, 17 0 sauces for, see sauce( s) for
trout timing, B 168, 169 vegetables
braised whole, substitute for stock, M 173 in soups, see soup(s)
salmon, 94 stuffings for stuffed, 3 02-9
to fillet, B 12 8 cornbread, sausage, sage, 184 stuffings for
home-cured, substitute for salmon, mushroom duxelles, B 160 beef, ham, olives, 186
130 rice, giblet, 185 bulgur, mushroom, 186
meuniere, 99 sausage, crouton, 184 duck leg mousse, 182
mousse(s), 123-8 tacchino tonnato, 372 ham, bread crumb, 184
crown mousse, 126 turnip(s) meat loaf maison, 252
substitute for sole, 128 angel-hair, B 2 94 moussaka, 319
oven-poached, substitute for sole, grated, sauteed-steamed, 294 mushroom duxelles, B 160
88-93 hashed with ham, eggs, 264 onion, rice, B 303
poached stove-top, 26, 102-3, in vegetable ragout, 3 15 pattypan squash, 3 0 8
104 sausage, crumbs, B 15 5
substitute for salmon, 103 sausage, Swiss chard,
roasted whole, M 97 Uniform Retail Meat Identity Stan- B 250
sauteed, 100 dards, 190 three kernels , 3 3 9
substitute for sole, 98, 99 zucchini, 3 09
whole, meuniere, 99 vegetable soup , 16
to serve whole, B 96 vanilla with pistou, 29
in soups, 11, .22-6, 31, 122 beans, B 76 veloute, B 272
truffies ice-cream loaf, 420 mornay, B 2 7 2
in Madeira, Port, 223 souffie, M 7 6 soup base, M 8
truffies, dessert, 4 7 6, 4 8 5 syrup for poaching, 441 wine, cream, 86
tuiles, see cookies veal Vichyssoise, 13
tuna (yellowfin) general information, 207 vinaigrette, see salad(s):dressings
anchovy sauce (tonnato), 3 7 2 braised vinegar, see salad(s): dressings
broiled, 82-3 blanquette, 14 7
home-cured, substitute for salmon, breast, stuffed, 248
130 ossobucco, 240 walnut(s)
poached stove-top, 26, 101-2, 104 pot roast, M 243 apricot filling for crepes, 409
substitute for salmon, 103 shanks, 240-1 whole wheat bread, 46
turbot breast, 247 warmngs
oven-poached, substitute for sole, braised, stuffed, 248 egg, 61
88-93 stuffings for poultry, safe handling, 13 6
poached stove-top, 26, 101-2, 104 mushroom duxelles, B 160 watercress, 349
substitute for salmon, 103 sausage, Swiss chard, B 250 soup, 14
turkey burgers, 201 Waters, Alice, 5 5
general information, l 5 8 leftovers, see feasting on remains waterzooi of chicken, 147
blanquette, 148 sauces for, see sauce( s) for veal weakfish
breast, poached, B 3 72 sauteed braised, oven-baked, 22, 84
broil-roasted, M 158, 159 chops, wine, 205 substitute for salmon, 85, 86,
gravy scallops, 2 07 94
brown, 173 tarragon cream sauce, 208 roasted whole, substitute for
cream, 174 stock, B 248 salmon, trout, 97

INDEX 511
wheat berries wine (cont.)

see also bulgur Madeira, Port
in three kernels, M 339 for beef, 222
white beans, see bean(s), dried cream for ham, 206, 232
whitefish cream for lobster, 107
braised, oven-baked, 22, 84 with mushrooms, B 7 1
substitute for salmon, 85, 86, with pork, 229
94 with truffles, 223
white sauce, see bechamel sauce mustard for calf's liver, 209
whiting (silver hake) vin blanc, B 87
mousse(s), 123-8 white, oysters, 282
substitute for sole, trout, 126,
128
yams, mashed, 321
oven-poached, substitute for sole,
yeast, 36
88-93
starter for bread, 44
sauteed, 100
yellowtail (yellowfin) , see tuna
substitute for sole, trout, 98, 99
wild rice
general information, 3 3 1 zabaione, B 453
braised zucchini
with mirepoix, M 330 blossoms, stuffed, 3 09
with mushroom duxelles, 331 grated
croutons, B 155 gratin, 295
wme with onions, red peppers, 2 9 5
Port wine aspic, 16 sauteed, M 294
Port wine gravy, 17 4 simmered in cream, 2 9 5
sauces with spinach, 295
butter, 194 in ratatouille, M 317
deglazing, 192 soup, cream , 7

A Note About the Author
Julia Child was born in Pasadena, California. She was

graduated from Smith College and worked for the OSS
during World War II in Ceylon and China. Afterwards she
lived for several years in Paris, studied at the Cordon
Bleu, and taught cooking with Simone Beck and Louisette
Bartholle, with whom she wrote the first volume of Mastering
the Art of French Cooking, published in 1961 .
In 1963 Boston's WGBH launched "The French Chef"
television series, which made Julia Child a national celebrity,
earning her the Peabody award in 1965 and an Emmy in
1966; subsequent public television shows were "Julia Child
& Company" ( 1978) and "Julia Child & More Company"
(1980), both accompanied by cookbooks, and "Dinner at
Julia's" (1983). She has also appeared frequently on "Good
Morning America." In 197 0 Volume II of Mastering the Art
of Fren ch Cooking, written with Simone Beck, was published,
and in 197 5 From Julia Child's Kitchen followed. For four
years in the early 8 O's, Mrs. Child wrote a monthly feature
for Parade magazine.
Julia Child is married to Paul Child, who has worked
closely with her as an artist and photographer. The Childs
live in Cambridge, Massachusetts, and in Santa Barbara,
California.
A Note on the Type
This book was set in a modern adaptation of a type

designed by William Caslon ( 1692-17 66). In style Caslon
was a reversion to earlier type styles. Its characteristics are
remarkable regularity and symmetry, and beauty iri the shape
and proportion of the letters; its general effect is clear and
open, but not weak or delicate. For uniformity, clearness,
and readability, it has perhaps never been surpassed.
Composed by Graphic Composition, Inc., Athens, Georgia.

Color separations by Combined Communications Services,
Clearwater, Florida.
Printed and bound by R. R. Donnelley & Sons, Willard, Ohio.
Designed by Janet Odgis & Company, Inc.
SHE TAKES YOU INTO HER KITCHEN
AND TELLS YOU-AND SHOWS YOU-
EVERYTHING SHE KNOWS ABOUT THE
ESSENTIALS OF GOOD COOKING TODAY.
~------------------------------------ -- ~
..........................
Soups Breads Eggs Poultry
Chicken Soups, French Bread, Whole Wheat, Eggs Boiled, Steamed, Chickens, Turkeys ,
Vegetable Soups, Rye, and Walnut Breads Peeled, Stuffed, Poached, Poussins, Game Hens , G e e
Low-Fat Cream Soups and Scrambled Ducks , and Rabbits
Hamburger Buns, Rolls,
Oxtail Soup, and Sandwich Bread Eggs in Omelettes Sautes, Ragouts, Fricas se E
French Onion Soup and Timbales Stews, Blanquettes ,
Spiced Dough for Roasts, Broilings an d
Chowders and Coffee Cake and Sticky Buns Eggs in Cheese, Broil-Roastings ,
Mediterranean Fish Soups Vanilla, and Chocolate Bonings, Debreastings , a i:
Pizza, Calzone,
Souffles Re-assemblings
Garlic, Pistou, Pumpkin , and Buttermilk Cornsticks
and Tripe and Bean Soups
Fin Fish Meat Salads VegetablE

& Shellfish Sautes and Pan-Fries Green Salads , Salad Greens Green Vegetables ,
and Salad Dressings Root Vegetables ,
Roasts , Braises , Stews, Winter and Summe r
Fish Steaks , Fish Fillets, and Ragouts Composed Salads and Vegetables
and Whole Fish What Goes into Them
Steaks , Chops, Burgers, Boil-Steamed Vegeta b le.
Br oiled, Roasted , Poached , Butterflied Legs , Pasta, Rice, and
and Sauteed Fish and Marvelous Bean Salads Grated, Braised, and St u t
Miscellaneous Vegetables
Ways with Lobsters, Poultry, Meat , and
Mixtures
S hrimp , Scallops, Oysters, Fish Salads Vegetable Dishes
and Mussels That Make a Mea l
Cabbage , Celery,
Mousses and Marinades; and Corn Salads New Ideas for Potato e
Plain and Fancy Sauces Rice , Beans, and Len t il
Wheat Berries, Hom i n y .
and Grits
Desserts Pastry Cakes

F r ozen Desserts, Ice Creams, Doughs & Cookies
and Sherbets
Apple Desserts, Including The Dough for Pie Shells All About Making Sponge
pple Snow and Apple Crisp , and Qui c hes Cakes and Genoises
Caramel Apple Mountain ,

Fren c h Puff Pastr y from Flavorings , Frills ,
and Apple Pizza
Peekaboo Tarts to and Essential Techniques
Dessert Pies and Tarts- Pissaladiere

La ye r Cakes, Almond Cakes,
Compotes and Custards
Choux Pastry , Sponge Sheets , Loaf Cakes
Chocolate Mousse, Chocolate E c lairs ,

A Selection of Cookies
Christmas Pudding, and the and Puffed Tidbits
Immense Fruit Bowl 5
Crepes
Both Sweet and Savory
11
9 11 78 □ 394 11 532646
ISBN 0-394-532 6 '

I
......... ... ...................... . .

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SHE TAKES YOU INTO HER KITCHEN

AND TELLS YOU-AND SHOWS YOU-

time Deviled Rabbit or Split Cornish Game

I n th is magnificent new cookbook, illustrated

In this spirit, Julia has conceived her most

( continued on back flap)

Copyright © 198 9 by Julia Child

All rights reserved under International and

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Manufactured in the United States of America

vii Foreword and 3 soups 1)1

267 Vegetables iii

379 Pastry Doughs .. _ ..

413 Desserts JI\

455 Cakes & Cookies =

SAXOt--InURG ;\REA UBRAR_x

Ingredients. With the probable excep- Equipment. I am assuming you

l.\ ._ , ,.~ • :·· :

Oxtail Soup, French Onion Soup

Garlic, Pistou, Pumpkin,

THE CHICKEN SOUP

I n the old days of a chicken in

Perhaps all the old hens go into

The vegetable garnish: Soups may be creamed in a number

This is the typical heavy cream you

*Ahead-of-time note: See Special SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: Decoration:

paragus, where a vegetable is cooked Ingredients for the preceding

D elicious, fragrant, easy to

4 cups sliced leeks-the white part

Watercress Soup S oupe du J our

such as French onion, oxtail, beef

Chilled Watercress Soup

Using Canned Broth or

tate the pan a quarter turn and repeat 2 Tbs butter

and simmer 10 to 15 minutes, or un-

*Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared

Finishing the soup . Just before serv-

Ing redie nts fo r oxtail so up

Serving Suggestions: serve the meat, and return the re-

Oxtail Variation: Oxtail SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:

Dumplings A food processor

French Onion Soup Simmering the soup. Sprinkle in the

Onion Soup Gratineed (co ntinued) CHOWDERS AND OTHER

12 or more Hard-Toasted French

New England Clam

This is the real old New England

TIMING NOTE: Chowders always pick

For 2 ½ quarts, serving 6 to 8

Decorative suggestions: New England Fish Bake

Codfish and finnan haddie are won- SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED:

baking; otherwise it exudes too much New England Corn

1 ½ cups Red Garlic Sauce (see *Ahead-of-time note: May be kept

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED: Serving. Place 2 or 3 rounds of hard-

Adding the fish. Fold the fish into the

VARIATIONS Mediterranean Fish in Aspic The aspic . Following the illustrated

Always mold an aspic in a metal bowl

Hot Water Method. Have a chilled

Mediterranean Fish in Aspic

T he following group of soups

Ai:go -Boui:do *Ahead-of-time note: May be prepared

JULIA CHILD THE WAY TO COOK SOUPS 31

Proven9al Garlic and Suggested accompaniments, each in a

Ingredients for the Garlic Soup 2 cucumbers, peeled, seeded, and