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Geomorphology and Volcanology of

Costa Rica Jean Pierre Bergoeing


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GEOMORPHOLOGY
AND VOLCANOLOGY
OF COSTA RICA

Jean Pierre Bergoeing


Retd. University of Costa Rica
Member of IPGH (Panamerican Institute of Geography and History)
Elsevier
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Notices
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ISBN: 978-0-12-812067-5

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Typeset by TNQ Books and Journals
Front cover image: Tarcoles River Mouth in the Pacific Ocean. Fluvial sediments in suspension that in
contact with salt water particles spread and deposit on the bottom to form later step by step a new delta.
Photo courtesy of CAVU.org.
Back cover image: Sunset in the Pacific Ocean near Dominical Beach taken by a Phantom Drone by Esteban
Montealegre M.
Biography of the Author

Jean Pierre Bergoeing, French geomorphol-


ogist and polyglot, studied at the Pontifical
Catholic University of Chile. He continued his
studies at the University of AixeMarseille II,
France, where he successively obtained a
Master’s degree in Physical Geography (1972),
a Third Cycle Doctorate in Geomorphology
(1975), and finally a State Doctorate in Letters
and Human Sciences (1987). His career has
developed on three continents, North and South
America, Europe, and Africa. He has been a pro-
fessor at the Pontifical Catholic University of
Chile; Nantes University of France; Abdou Mou-
mouni University of Niamey, Niger; and the
University of Costa Rica. He has also worked
for the French government as an international
aid worker and later served a diplomatic career
as a Scientific and Technical Cooperation Atta- jegadana@gmail.com
ché. He is the author of several books, numerous 506.86290712e506.22536318
publications in international journals, and
geomorphic maps of Chile, Costa Rica, Central
America, Africa, and Europe.

vii
Introduction

The first edition of Geomorphology of Costa Rica Costa Rica is a predominantly tropical country,
was published in 1998, in Spanish, by the Insti- only 10 degrees north latitude, with reliefs that
tuto Geografía Nacional of Costa Rica. In 2007 reach 12,530 ft (Mount Chirrip o) in a relatively
a second edition followed, a luxury and color small space, as the country covers only
print edition, in charge of the French Bookstore 19,691 square miles. We add that by its geological
of Costa Rica. Both editions are now out of print, position, Costa Rica is subjected to the cortical
and thus a new book was essential. For this thrusts of two tectonic plates, the Cocos and
reason, the author wanted to re-form its context, Caribbean plates, which border on Panama’s
making it more attractive and innovative in Nazca plates. It is easy to understand the fragility
terms of content. This new English edition of of a country that borders an active abyssal pit,
Geomorphology and Volcanology of Costa Rica 9843 ft deep, in the Pacific, just 63 miles from its
aims to renew the knowledge of that country shores. The risks of tectonic and volcanic activity,
accumulated in all these years, mainly of the mass landslides, and tsunamis are constant, and
ground. Geomorphology appears here as a sci- we must live with them. To these, we can add
ence that allows the reader to understand the the consequences of climate change that will inex-
problems of a country with a complex relief orably lead to a rise in the sea level over the next
and high altitudes that create stunning contrasts 100 years, and which may be 16e49 ft, according
and which are equally the source of disasters of to the specialists’ estimation, due to melting of the
all kinds. polar ice caps and Greenland.

Arenal Volcano Jean Pierre Bergoeing photography (2010).

ix
x INTRODUCTION

This will directly affect Costa Rica’s shores and aimed at specialists, government and local offi-
the inhabitants who have built in the proximity cials, and students of the earth sciences, as well
of the coast. Also, it will affect agriculture, which as the public generally eager to know the terri-
will bring important changes in the crops, due to tory and where it is located or to have a deeper
the decrease in rainfall, as well as urban areas, understanding of what is Costa Rica.
for which water is indispensable. Finally, the author would like to express his
The text presented here, divided into 10 chap- thanks to colleagues and students who have
ters, gives a regional vision of the country, with worked in research and in the development of
illustrations and original photographs that allow the illustrative color figures, as it is today in
a better understanding of the ideas. The book is any publication.
Jean Pierre Bergoeing, Ph.D.
C H A P T E R

1
Major Structural Units of Costa Rica
O U T L I N E

1. Northern Plains Extension of the 2.3 Central Volcanic Mountain Range 8


Nicaragua Graben 2 2.3.1 Platanar and Porvenir Volcanic
1.1 Alluvial Fans, Middle to Upper Complex 8
Pleistocene 3 2.3.2 Poas Volcano 9
1.2 FluvialeLacustrine Terraces 3 2.3.3 Barva Volcano 10
1.3 Frío River Watershed 4 2.3.4 Zurquí Hills 11
2.3.5 Irazu Volcano 11
2. Guanacaste and Central Quaternary
2.3.6 Turrialba Volcano 13
Volcanic Ranges 5
2.1 Guanacaste’s Volcano Range 5 3. Tempisque River Tectonic Depression 14
2.1.1 OrosíeCacao Volcanic Complex 5
4. Tilaran’s Tertiary Mountain Range 14
2.1.2 Rincon de la Vieja Volcanic
Complex 5 5. Talamanca Mountain Range 15
2.1.3 Miravalles Volcanic Complex 6
6. The Pacific Littoral 19
2.1.4 TenorioeMontezuma Complex 7
2.2 ArenaleChatoeLos Perdidos 7 7. The Caribbean Littoral 20
2.2.1 Modern Volcanic Complex 7
2.2.2 San Lorenzo Collapsed Caldera 8

Costa Rica, along with Nicaragua and Quaternary periods. The large structural units
Panama, forms the Central America Isthmus. of Costa Rica are distributed from northwest to
They are mostly recent volcanic lands, created southeast. In the northern half, the units ranging
at the end of the Cretaceous, only about 70 from the Caribbean coast to the Pacific water-
million years ago. Although Costa Rica has a shed of the country are as follows:
small area of 16,691 square miles, it has a wide 1. Northern plains extension of the Nicaragua
variety of geomorphologic landscapes, products graben. This corresponds to the vast plain
of its evolution throughout the Tertiary and basement of the Caribbean and passes to the

Geomorphology and Volcanology of Costa Rica


http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-812067-5.00001-0 1 Copyright © 2017 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
2 1. MAJOR STRUCTURAL UNITS OF COSTA RICA

south and southwest, progressively shaping c. Littoral sedimentary mountains. These are
the Guanacaste and Central piedmont constituted by a partly folded monocline
regions. strip, limited in the Pacific by the tectonic
2. The Plio-Quaternary volcanic ranges Great Reverse Fault and which determines
(Guanacaste and Central ranges) in high the coast path between Quepos and
tectonic position; this sector is the Palmar Sur.
topographic and hydrographic axis of the 6. The tectonic depression of the General
country. River-Coto Brus is a faulted syncline, fed
3. The Tempisque tectonic depression, with piedmont deposits and Quaternary
traversed by Tempisque River, which lacustrine deposits. These deposits are
corresponds to an inlet of the Gulf of deformed by plate tectonics.
Nicoya and constitutes the basal level of 7. Tectonic depression of Palmar Sur to the
the Tempisque River. The volcanic border with Panama. This is a tectonic
Guanacaste Mountain Range brought depressed area, situated west of the Great
piedmont deposits and above all deposits Reverse Fault and occupied by the basal
constituted of ignimbrites forming levels of the Coronado and Coto Colorado
the great plateau of Liberia and serves rivers and the Golfo Dulce Bay.
as a transition from the previous tectonic 8. Osa Peninsula, a horst formation.
unit.
4. The Nicoya Peninsula, which comprises
mostly horst formations. 1. NORTHERN PLAINS EXTENSION
5. The Tertiary mountain ranges: OF THE NICARAGUA GRABEN
a. Tilaran volcanic mountain range (Upper
MioceneePliocene volcanism), which Lake Nicaragua, or Lake Cocibolca, gradually
corresponds to Aguacate’s geological formed during the Quaternary period. In effect
formation) the Tertiary-ending orogeny left exposed, folded
b. Talamanca volcanoesedimentary (anticline) sediments of the Rivas formation
mountain range (mainly sandstones and limestone) constituting
Talamanca’s mountain range occupies the an isthmus of some 13 to 19 miles wide, which
south of Costa Rica, and the highest point of definitely interrupts the contact of the south-
the country, Chirrip o Mountain, is situated western region of Nicaragua with the Pacific
there at 12,530 ft. Only part of Talamanca is Ocean. Inside, the tectonic depression of
volcanic (Miocene volcanism). The base is Nicaragua is occupied by a lake of marine origin
formed by a Tertiary marine series, folded and whose waters became freshwater over the
faulted and pierced during the Miocene by millennia thanks to the numerous tributaries
granodiorite intrusions. that feed it. The lake’s dimensions reduced
From the Caribbean coast to the Pacific we considerably throughout the Quaternary period.
cross through the northern foothills and the Today the lake covers an area of 3,191,134 square
axial zone of the Talamanca range, which is a miles and its major axis is 100 miles. Lake bathy-
mountainous region of difficult penetration metric studies indicate that the average depth is
covered by rainforest and dissymmetrical 43 ft, with a maximum between 19 and 230 ft,
acute watersheds of the Pacific, contrasting locate 8 miles to the southeast of Ometepe
with the slopes of the Caribbean side’s broad Island. The volume of the lake is estimated at
development. 219,969,248.29909 gallons. At the beginning of the
1. NORTHERN PLAINS EXTENSION OF THE NICARAGUA GRABEN 3
Quaternary period the lake was salty, allowing a transgression. However, the communication
marine fauna, the Carcharhinus leucas shark, to with the Caribbean Sea was still partly open.
slowly adapt to the conditions of lower levels
of salt due to the surrounding river contributions
from the Tertiary volcanic foothills (northeeast) 1.1 Alluvial Fans, Middle to Upper
and Quaternary construction (west and south). Pleistocene
During this period, communication with the
Alluvial fans developed from the lower limit
Caribbean was broad. The intergraben sector,
of lahar deposits produced by the volcanic moun-
which extends to the south in Costa Rica, was
tain ranges covering the southern limit of the
fed with sediments of the Central and Guana-
Nicaragua graben. They extend deeply north-
caste volcanic ranges, with contributions of
ward, reaching linear distances of 25 to 37 miles.
lahars to the foot of the slopes and the construc-
They are mainly made of decomposed ferrugi-
tion of powerful alluvial fans that reached linear
dimensions of 25 to 37 miles with a mainly nous red clays. These alluvial fans contain up-
stream a matrix of some chaotic volcanic blocks
northern orientation. The post-orogenic period
(andesite, tuffs, and basalts) several meters in
corresponds to the Pliocene and Quaternary,
diameter, partially altered at the surface. This is
characterized by an important development
the material that has better resisted the general
of tectonic fault system and big blocks that
breakdown of the lithic material swept away by
definitely make the major structural units.
river avalanches of this period alternating with
Particularly with consequences of tectonic activ-
periods of rexistasis and biostasis (Bergoeing,
ity in the sector of major shortcomings of the
liminal, basins burier, as the depression of 1998). The alluvial fans are notched by paleo-
channels and modern channels giving a multi-
Nicaragua transformed into real grabben [sic].
convex modeling to this sector.
These depressions were the centers of accumula-
tion of the erosive elements of the mountain
ranges which rose concomitantly with products
of volcanic eruptions that occur at that time .
1.2 FluvialeLacustrine Terraces
(Butterlin, 1977). From the Upper Pleistocene to the Holocene,
A little developed volcanism (Tortugueroe the various rivers of Lake Nicaragua, including
Sierpe) also occurred, leaving small isolated cones the Frío River, deposited sediments in the former
in the middle of the flood plain under construc- paleolake, which contained the same clay gene-
tion (Tournon, 1972). However, the intergraben sis as the alluvial fans, because these eroded
sector also started to give signs of rising from and the material was transported in suspension
the Middle Pleistocene. Flood rains that charac- by the runoff. Between Los Chiles and the Nicar-
terized the Upper Pleistocene period ended the aguan border, an elongated NEeSW fluvial
construction of the powerful river fans, which terrace rises about 32 ft above the general level
took a multiconvex shape thanks to the consistent of 131 ft above sea level. The wavy surface this
contributions of the volcanic mountain chains al- terrace was shaped by the contributions of the
ways in construction. The positive neotectonics Frío River, which currently flows 10.5 miles to
was a constant from that moment. During the the north, forming a lake delta a few miles
Upper Pleistocene, i.e., some 200,000 years ago, from the drain of the San Juan River. The top
the southern part of Lake Nicaragua extended of the terrace consists of decomposing clays,
about 13 mi into the interior of Costa Rica in an much leached and with whitish spots, whose
area stretching from Los Chiles to Ca~ no Negro, thickness is about 32 ft, resting on a level of
which was probably affected by the Eemian gray lake clay (base level) that does not exceed
4 1. MAJOR STRUCTURAL UNITS OF COSTA RICA

FIGURE 1.1 Los Chiles fluviale


lacustrine terrace. Top: Fluvial de-
posits with small runoff courses in a
red kaolin clay matrix. Bottom:
Lake stratification. Bergoeing (2006)
photo.

40 ft thickness and on a level of kaolin white lake seasonal flooding caused by the river water. At
clay (see Fig. 1.1). the base, almost in contact with the current river
The current paleolake level of Los Chiles is at level, red clays of the top level rest on a black
98 ft (the level of the surface of the lake, mea- clay stratum, about 0.6 to 1 ft thick, which can
sured by the Instituto Nicarag€ uense de Estudios also be observed in the current margins of the
Territoriales of Nicaragua, was 101 ft above sea Frío River in Los Chiles. Under this black layer
level). We can calculate that the sector covered appear clear lacustrine clay silt stratifications
by the Frío River, between Los Chiles and Lake representing the base level.
Nicaragua, a distance of 10.5 miles, was settled
only 17,000 years ago (if we calculate that depos-
ited sediments in the middle lake gain approxi-
1.3 Frío River Watershed
mately 0.62 mile of ground every 1000 years). It
should be noted that the Flandrian transgression The Frío River originates, strictly speaking,
( 6500 years) probably interrupted the process from a number of tributaries originating in the
of sedimentation; therefore the rate of sedimen- Guanacaste volcanic range, between the Tenorio
tation could be much faster and, in that case, it volcano slopes and Lake Cote. The basin has a
is fully Holocene. high risk of erosion. Its mouth is formed by a
The fluvialelacustrine terrace of the Frío delta only a few meters from the drain of the
River is well exposed, on the left bank of the San Juan River. The amount of sediment that
bridge of the highway between Los Chiles and transports this water system into the upper part
Ca~ no Negro, and is characterized by 33 ft of of the basin is very important.
red leached clay deposit. It is a regional reposi- It is inferred that during the Middle and Up-
tory, which characterizes the low sector of Upala per Pleistocene, particularly under a more con-
and Los Chiles. It corresponds to the upper reser- trasted climate, the basin underwent phases of
voir of the lake terrace in Los Chiles. At the top of rexistasis and biostasis, and the tectonic depres-
this deposit, the Frío River has built a composite sion of Nicaragua was filled in quickly, reducing
fluvial terrace, by storied yellow limeesandy the lake’s surface and conveying its coastline
sediments, which corresponds to the area of more northward.
2. GUANACASTE AND CENTRAL QUATERNARY VOLCANIC RANGES 5

2. GUANACASTE AND CENTRAL and eroded craters facing the direction of the
QUATERNARY VOLCANIC RANGES ignimbrite plateau. In the middle flank a third
recent crater is imposed on its predecessors,
2.1 Guanacaste’s Volcano Range where emerged an important lahar flow associ-
ated with pyroclastic rocks and large amount
The Guanacaste volcanic range is an eminently of pumice, forming a large cone of outfall fans
Quaternary continuation of a NWeSE fracture ending in contact with the structural plateau.
that continues into Nicaragua. It is characterized At the foot of the eastern flank of the Cacao
by acidic ignimbrite eruptions that created a cone, a vast circular depression that is without
plateau about 328e492 ft high, stretching west a doubt a collapsed caldera is partly fitted and
of the volcanic cones and going from the city of drawn through the Pizote River, also known as
La Cruz northwest to Bagaces southeast. the Ni~no River. A NEeSW tectonic fault borders
this first volcanic complex and the Rincon de la
2.1.1 Orosı́eCacao Volcanic Complex Vieja volcano.
Dominating the south of Lake Nicaragua, the
OrosíeCacao ensemble comprises the first volca- 2.1.2 Rincon de la Vieja Volcanic Complex
nic cones that emerged, forming stratovolcanoes, The Rincon de la Vieja volcanic complex is
during the Upper Pleistocene, and are composed seated between the OrosíeCacao system and
of several cones and craters highlighted by the the Miravalles volcano. It is a Middle to Upper
Orosí volcano (4593 ft above sea level), the Oro- Pleistocene stratovolcano complex (Boudon et al.,
silito (3937 ft), El Pedregal (3609 ft), and Cacao 1996 in Alvarado, 2000). Nine craters are aligned
(5443 ft). Seen from the north, the Orosí volcanic on the elongated top of this massif. The first is
cone presents as a perfect, pointed cone coated named Santa Maria (6286 ft above sea level),
on top with lush tropical vegetation, which dem- which houses a pluvial lake; next is the Rincon
onstrates its relative youth, because tropical de la Vieja, the main active crater of this massif
erosion has not fitted it with deep canyons. The and whose south wall reaches 5906 ft above sea
craters of this set are closed mouth or open to- level. It presents great volcanic activity, the
ward the southeast because of the effects of erup- most recent of which dates to 1966e1970 and
tions coupled with the northeastern trade winds 1991e1992 to 2016, with intense fumarole activ-
that blow consistently. An explosion caldera ity. Northwest emerges the Von Seebach crater,
structure separates the Orosi and the Orosilito which rises 2936 ft. This crater alignment is also
craters. characterized by the presence of a large explo-
Deep ravines covered by thick tropical vege- sion caldera at 5250 ft high, eroded and open to-
tation, however, furrow the northern flanking ward the northeast, housing two craters. The
cones. At the foot of the volcanic complex, an edge is a caldera that has another much-eroded
ignimbrite plateau extends north to Santa Cecilia crater called Marmo, which reaches the altitude
village, where the natural modeling is flat- of 5381 ft. The western slope, though regular,
bottomed and formed by fluvial erosion into presents in its sector average a great eroded cir-
canyons and terraces modeled in the ignimbrites. cus shape, in which it is carved with deep river
From Santa Cecilia, the plateau is covered by canyons. At the base emerge dacitic to rhyoda-
lahars, creating a topographic plateau structure citic domes of the Lower Pleistocene (Bellon
with multiconvex reliefs. Further to the south and Tournon, 1978), such as Fortuna (1572 ft),
rises the Cacao volcanic cone, attached to the San Roque (1772 ft), Ca~ nas Dulces (2149 ft),
structure of the Orosi complex. This is character- Gongora (2520 ft), and San Vicente (1969 ft) (Ber-
ized on the southwest flank by two very open goeing, 2007). In addition, it is worth mentioning
6 1. MAJOR STRUCTURAL UNITS OF COSTA RICA

that at the Coyol site, bordered by the Colorado eruptions of lahars, spilling mainly toward the
River and the Jaramillo Gorge, there are thermal north; acid rain; volcanic avalanches; and
springs and hot mud springs associated with the ash fall.
Rincon de la Vieja volcanism. The contact of the
volcanic cone with the structural western 2.1.3 Miravalles Volcanic Complex
plateau is the result of the spill of mainly succes- The cusp of the Miravalles volcano reaches
sive ignimbrite flows and lahars during the Qua- 7244 ft above sea level and the diameter of its
ternary. The eastern slope, more regular, is crater is about 0.37 miles. It has six volcanic sour-
covered by dense natural tropical vegetation ces aligned NWeSE. This stratovolcano was
and ends in a structural volcanic plateau that is rebuilt on several occasions during the Quater-
inscribed in a former collapsed caldera, not nary period (see Fig. 1.2). At its feet, in the north-
recorded in the geological charts and unseen west sector, stretches a vast topographic plateau,
because of the permanent cloud cover of the which corresponds to the bottom of the collapsed
sector, but which becomes evident when study- Guayabo caldera dating from the Lower Pleisto-
ing radar satellite imagery. The surface material cene (between 1.6 and 0.6 million years BP). At
of the past 300,000 years of this volcanic massif that time there were strong emissions of burning
consists of cinder, lahars, and pyroclastic flow clouds (ignimbrites) and finally the subsidence
deposits of andesitic composition (Carr et al., or collapse of the Guayabo volcano (Gillot et al.,
1986 in Alvarado, 2000; Chiesa et al., 1994 in 1994 in Alvarado, 2000). The surrounding La
Alvarado, 2000). The historical eruptive activity Monta~ nosa hills represent the remaining rim.
of this complex dates back to 1765 and has The collapsed caldera occupies an area of 77
been characterized mainly by steam and ash col- square miles. Further, northeast, another
umns. According to Boudon (1996) in Alvarado collapsed paleocaldera, even greater, dominates
(2000), the Rincon de la Vieja can produce the base of this colossus and separates it from

FIGURE 1.2 Miravalles volcano in the Guanacaste range, Costa Rica. Photo courtesy of Gilbert Vargas (2008).
2. GUANACASTE AND CENTRAL QUATERNARY VOLCANIC RANGES 7
the Rincon de la Vieja massif, and has been evi- date back to the Middle Pleistocene and whose
denced by satellite radar images. The current evidence can be seen in satellite radar images.
Miravalles cone has emerged on a vast collapsed Like Miravalles, the Montezuma volcano cone
caldera that is shared with the Tenorio volcano is separated, in the south, by a SWeNE tectonic
more to the south, whose evidence is shown fault, from another volcanic structure of the
once again by radar images. The Miravalles Upper Pleistocene, quite eroded, which, however,
southwest flank is bordered by the Espiritu provides a glimpse of their original morphology.
Santo and Gotas de Agua volcanic cones, which The Tenorio volcano dominates from the north-
correspond to Lower to Middle Pleistocene vol- west the vast tectonic depression of Lake Arenal,
canic activity. These volcanic hills are separated which is a set of low mountain ranges of sub-
by a WSWeENE tectonic fault that passes be- equal altitudes, with volcanic dating to the
tween the Tenorio and the Montezuma volcanic PlioceneePleistocene and resting on a Tertiary
cones and disappears in the plain north of the sedimentary series (the Venado formation). In
Miravalles cone. Remains of less important cal- the northern sector of the TenorioeMontezuma
deras flank the northeast side of Miravalles. set a series of rivers and waterfalls associated
The Miravalles volcano is separated from the with a hydrothermal volcanic activity gives a
TenorioeMontezuma volcanic complex by a particular staining to the Celeste River due to
SWeNE tectonic depression. The Miravalles vol- the sulfur input from their waters.
cano is currently active, showing fumaroles, sol-
fataras, and thermal springs. Holocene andesitic 2.2 ArenaleChatoeLos Perdidos
lava flows cover the northwest flank, and the
geothermal activity manifested has been used 2.2.1 Modern Volcanic Complex
since 1946 by the Costa Rican Electricity Insti- The Arenal, Chato, and Los Perdidos volca-
tute, still in operation today. noes (Upper PleistoceneeHolocene), of recent con-
struction and nearby, south of the Guanacaste
2.1.4 TenorioeMontezuma Complex volcanic range, present as a new unit that serves
TenorioeMontezuma is the southernmost as a transition with the Central Volcanic Range.
Guanacaste volcanic mountain range, if we take Arenal Volcano, 5436 ft above sea level, is a
into account the gap between the Guanacaste modern cone built on an old explosion caldera.
range and the Arenal complex. It is composed It is estimated that Arenal has existed for only
of two Upper Pleistocene stratovolcanoes form- about 40,000 years and it would be the youngest
ing two main cones, the Tenorio (6286 ft above volcano in Costa Rica. Historical eruptions of
sea level) and its twin the Montezuma (5971 ft), Arenal are unknown, but since 1937 it has shown
separated by a SWeNE tectonic fault. Among violent activity. It is a stratovolcano composed of
them is equally drawn a small collapsed caldera alternating ashes, slags, lapilli and lava blocks,
of a third volcanic edifice, closed headed, whose and deposits of burning clouds. Volcanic prod-
remnants are a series of subequal-altitude struc- ucts range from basalts to dacites (Borgia et al.,
tural plateaus. In the field, the hills present have 1988). Since 1968, eruptions have manifested it
a multiconvex morphology, being composed of as a dangerous volcano emitting pyroclastic
pyroclastic material. Between the plateaus are flows. Its activity did not cease until 2010, and
hints of depressions that could be remains of this has attracted large numbers of tourists,
small explosive craters. The TenorioeMontezuma mostly because of the spectacle that represents
volcanic complex could be related to the modern its unpredictable activity and its hot springs.
building of the Miravalles cone because all are For these reasons hotel facilities have been built
circumscribed in a peripheral caldera that could at the foot of the volcano, in some cases just 1.8
8 1. MAJOR STRUCTURAL UNITS OF COSTA RICA

to 3 miles away, as the crow flies, from the crater. manifestations occurred during the Upper Plio-
It is the setting for an imminent disaster, legally cene and go back to the Lower Pleistocene. Its
authorized by the competent authorities, thus base consists of a powerful series of basaltic
creating the conditions for a human catastrophe lava flows. The stratigraphy then evolves into a
of major proportions. In the event of a catastro- volcanic tuff series appearing clearly in the Vir-
phic pyroclastic eruption, the red-hot avalanche illa River Canyon, and finally, the tuffs are
would bury many hotels. The surrounding and covered by important ignimbrite deposits, with
nonradial road is completely inadequate for a an output 115e328 ft thick, divided into two
quick evacuation. units (Perez, 2005). This bears witness to an
increasingly important acidifying of the Central
2.2.2 San Lorenzo Collapsed Caldera volcanic eruptive events. The Central Plateau is
This description would be incomplete without finally covered by numerous and important
mention of the San Lorenzo collapsed caldera. lahar deposits that descended from the southern
Indeed such a large caldera, perceived only flank of the Central Volcanic Range and are very
through satellite images, probably fits in the visible, forming hills rows perpendicular to the
Lower Pleistocene. This caldera marks the transi- Virilla River.
tion between the volcanic Central Range and the The eastern sector, where are seated Cartago
Guanacaste volcanic range. and Turrialba cities, is constituted by smaller
plateaus, but generally of the same nature as the
western Central Plateau, such as the Paraiso and
2.3 Central Volcanic Mountain Range Juan Vi~nas plateaus. Between Turrialba and Lake
The Central Volcanic Range is the result of the Bonilla, the Reventaz on River notch on its left
construction of five large volcanic edifices built bank contains marine sedimentary formations
gradually during the Quaternary period. They from the Eocene to the Miocene (Tournon and
are the PlatanarePorvenir, Poas, Barva, Irazu, Alvarado, 1995), on which rest the oldest volca-
and Turrialba volcano complex. Each has its nic lava and lahars. The Central Volcanic Range
own structure and geomorphology, with twin stratovolcanoes, more modern chronologically
cones, adventitious cones, “planezes,” lava flows, than the Central Plateau, sit atop an understood
lahars, and thermal and gaseous emissions. The margin between the Middle and the Upper Pleis-
current craters are aligned following a tectonic tocene. The current craters are mostly Holocene.
NWeSE fault direction.
The Central Valley is part of the Central Vol- 2.3.1 Platanar and Porvenir Volcanic
canic Range and is an extension of the same. It Complex
is a vast structural plateau in the western sector Platanar Volcano is located northwest of the
bounded by the Grande River and the Virilla Central Volcanic Range. It is a composed strato-
River cuts. Ochomogo Pass separates the Central volcano, which could be tentatively dated from
Valley into two sectors: the western area, where the Upper Pleistocene, consisting of the cone of
San Jose, Heredia, and Alajuela cities stand, and the Platanar itself and, a little farther south,
the eastern area, where Cartago and Turrialba El Porvenir volcanic cone, separated from each
cities are seated. The Central Plateau occupies a other by 2 miles. The volcanic complex covers
graben tectonic position, bordered by the horst of more than 44 square miles. Platanar Crater is
the Central Volcanic Range and the Talamanca located at 7162 ft above sea level, whereas Porve-
Mountain Range, staggered by failures in this nir reaches 7437 ft.
part. The Central Plateau is part of the basement On the northern flank of the Platanar, over-
of the Central volcanic system. Its first looking the Great Plains, is drawn the collapsed
2. GUANACASTE AND CENTRAL QUATERNARY VOLCANIC RANGES 9
caldera of Palmera (Tournon, 1984), dating lake, known as the Laguna de Botos. The whole
probably from the Lower Pleistocene, and cov- is surrounded by dense mountainous tropical
ered in large part by lahars, arranged in large al- vegetation. Poas Volcano is also part of a tectonic
luvial fans coming from the northern Platanar system through which emerged, in a NeS line,
slopes. This filling can reasonably considered a several issues of magma. As well, a few miles
constant stream, which covered the collapsed north of Poas stands, at 6607 ft, the inactive
depression during all of the Quaternary. Farther Congo Volcano, whose crater is open to the
east are nine small volcanic cones from the Upper northwest. Following the NeS tectonic align-
Quaternary and Holocene, aligned northesouth ment, farther to the north is the Hule collapsed
and known as the Aguas Zarcas volcanic region. caldera (Bergoeing and Brenes, 1977), a volcanic
They reach elevations no higher than 328e525 ft depression that houses three small lakes and in
above sea level, but their cones are well pre- whose center stands a volcanic postcollapse
served and some even show craters. They are cone. Finally, the complete tectonicevolcanic
the manifestation of the latest magma ascension line ends north in the Laguna de Rio Cuarto gas-
of the sector. They consist of gabbros and doler- maar. Here is an explosive crater depression,
ites, which correspond to Upper Pleistocene covered with fluvial waters. This gasmaar is
trace-alkaline volcanism. Some are Strombolian 1181 ft above sea level, measuring about
cones composed of lapilli, volcanic bombs, and 0,127414 square miles at the surface, and has a
alkali basalts (Tournon and Alvarado, 1995). depth of 217 ft, and its walls are made of
The Platanar and Porvenir cones are a mod- basalticeandesitic lava (Alvarado, 2000).
ern construction (Upper Pleistocene) rebuilt over Since 1828, Poas Volcano has had 39 eruptive
older structures where, notably, in the east appears episodes. On January 25, 1910, an eruption
the Chocosuela collapsed caldera (Alvarado and expelled a column of steam of 640,000 tons of
Carr, 1993 in Alvarado, 2000), which forms a ash. From 1952 to 1954, Poas Volcano experi-
canyon that can reach 1640e3280 ft deep and enced a new cinder cycle eruption with an emis-
where the Aguas Zarcas River runs in the thal- sion of slag. In 1987 a phreatic explosion resulted
weg. If we consider this important, the structure in a modification of the lake level, and in 1989 the
rests on a bigger caldera that would go from the lake disappeared temporarily, exposing sulfuric
Toro River in the east to the San Lorenzo River “hot beds”; these were again submerged in 1990
in the west. Then the area takes on another dimen- when the lake returned to its “original” form.
sion and the PlatanarePorvenir assembly fits In 2006, Poas manifested again with phreatic ex-
within the framework of the largest calderas in plosions and fumaroles. Poas lavas are complex.
the world, because the diameter of this structure The southern flank presents aphyric andesitic
would be about 22.3 miles, which would give a lava flows, a rare occurrence in calc-alkaline se-
surface area of approximately 386 square miles. ries, which can be acidic or basic (see Fig. 1.3).
Poas volcano lavas range from basalts to da-
2.3.2 Poas Volcano cites. Congo volcanic cone lavas and the Hule
Poas Volcano is a volcanic ensemble of the collapsed caldera are mainly basalticeandesitic
Central Mountain Range. It rises at 8884.5 ft (Tournon, 1983). Rivers running to the north
above sea level, consisting of a main crater, more are deeply encased in the volcanic slopes,
than 1.8 miles in diameter, containing an acid including the Sarapiqui River, an important trib-
sulfuric lake with a pH of 1 and temperatures utary of the San Juan River. The lava flows have
of 185 F. The lake also emits sulfurous gaseous allowed the creation of a choppy modeling, in
emanations. A second volcanic crater is very close which waterfalls and rapids are abundant. At
to the first one, but inactive, housing a pluvial the foot of the Poas cone powerful coalescing
10 1. MAJOR STRUCTURAL UNITS OF COSTA RICA

FIGURE 1.3 Poas Volcano. Main


crater hosting on the bottom a sulfu-
ric acid lake. Aerial photo Bergoeing
(2012a).

lahar fans of the Lower Pleistocene (Bergoeing, lava flow, a basalteandesitic lava wash, contem-
2007) produce a transition with the northern porary with the Cervantes lava flow of the Irazu
flood plain. Finally, the Poas massif is border volcano, but its spill covers a much wider exten-
on the west by the Toro River, which forms sion, reaching down to Barva City. This lava
part and shows the border of the collapsed flow originated in the Cerro Redondo volcanic
caldera of the PlatanarePorvenir system. cone and, therefore, this is one of Barva
Volcano’s adventitious domes.
2.3.3 Barva Volcano The western flank is dominated by the Guar-
Barva Volcano is separated from the Irazue ari volcano structure (Protti, 1986), a Holocene
Turrialba volcanic complex by La Palma Pass explosive volcano that emitted andesite lava
and the Zurquí Hills volcanism relicts. Barva and pyroclastic flows, which came down to the
Volcano dominates the city of San Jose from its village of Santo Domingo de El Roble. The crater
9534 ft above sea level. It has about 12 eruptive is partly destroyed and open to the west. To the
outbreaks on its top and adventitious cones on northeast Barva Volcano presents an explosion
its flanks. Three volcanic domes crown its sum- caldera structure, of large dimensions, but heavi-
mit, with a main crater occupied by the Barva ly affected by erosion and completely covered by
crater lake at 8228 ft. To the north another crater tropical mountain vegetation.
is occupied by Lake Danta at similar altitude. Despite there being no historical records of
Its historical eruptive activity is not known, Barva volcanic activity, this volcano is dangerous
although there are residual emissions of CO2 because there are traces of two Plinian eruptions
(solfataras) and hot springs. Eruptive activity of and ignimbrite spills that show an explosive acid
Barva has been consigned at 6050 BC (Simkin activity (Paniagua and Soto, 1988). The oldest
and Siebert, 1994). Barva lavas are igneous an- known Holocene eruption dates back to 6050
desites, basalts and some olivine basalts, and BC  1000 years but the andesiticedacitic tuffs
dacites (Alvarado, 2000). One of Barva Volcano’s exposed in the Tiribi River date back only
southern slope characteristics is the Los Angeles 332,000 years and come from the Barva
2. GUANACASTE AND CENTRAL QUATERNARY VOLCANIC RANGES 11
caldera (Venzke et al., 2008). Barva’s northern Chompipe (7411 ft), Turu (7018 ft), Caricias
slopes are also characterized by a series of cal- (6890 ft), Hondura (6716 ft), Tres Marias (5659 ft),
deras and domes and the Cacho Negro volcano. and Mount Achiotillal (6174 ft).
Despite being a Holocene cone it is very affected They are in the most depressed part of the
by erosion. From the bottom of this last crater is Central Volcanic Mountain Range and form the
born the Puerto Viejo River. Desenga~ no Hill, easily penetrated by the humid
The Cacho Negro stratovolcano rises to flows from the Caribbean. The ensemble is much
7382 ft above sea level. It is located northeast of eroded despite its relative youth. An andesitic
Barva Volcano. Its crater is fully northwest over lava radiometric dating of these ancient andesitic
mouth. On its flanks are observed recent radial volcanoes gave an age of 0.5 million years (Bellon
lava flows (Holocene) and two adventitious cones and Tournon, 1978). The geological survey in-
(Alvarado, 1989). Lavas are predominantly an- dicates that they were sources of emissions of
desitic and basaltic. It has no known historical basaltic lava flows, andesite, tuffs, breccia, ig-
activity. Arriving at the northern plain the volca- nimbrites, and pyroclastic materials that are
nic limit is marked by the Santa Clara caldera, exposed in the Braulio Carrillo highway and
formed by two postcollapse cone inserts inside visible in the Zurquí tunnel. The hills are covered
the caldera. The Barva Volcano northern slope by significant thicknesses of altered ash.
can be divided into three sectors. The west sector
corresponds to the cone of the Guarari volcano, 2.3.5 Irazu Volcano
the east to a series of volcanic domes that begin
This stratovolcano has the highest active
with the Zurquí Hills and culminate with the
crater in Costa Rica at 11,260 ft above sea level.
Cacho Negro volcanic cone, and at the center is
It is situated north of Cartago City and is com-
a deep very regular slope that descends gradu-
posed of multiple Holocene craters. It has some
ally and is interrupted by numerous rivers,
of the oldest cones, aligned NWeSE, which
which fit it vertically. This is due to the volcanic
end up in the destroyed crater of Las Nubes
material, which is part of the northern slope,
Volcano (Bergoeing, 1979). Irazu is the volcano
made from cinders interspersed with lava flows
with the best historical activity, because the colo-
and tuffs.
nial chronicles mention eruptions from the 18th
It is perhaps in the northwestern part of
century, with a cycle of 40e60 years, starting
Barva’s north slope where you can better see the
from 1723 and with some 23 eruptions since
phenomenon of megalandslides, associated with
then. The 1963 eruption had as a complement a
the second and third landslide categories, prod-
laharic flow, which buried the urban sector of
ucts of a very thick altered mantle, formed by
Taras de Cartago, after heavy rains associated
clay material coming from the decomposition of
with the eruption of the volcano. San Jose and
volcanic deposits. This material, deeply altered
most of the Central Highlands of Costa Rica
and overstretched by water under the tropical cli-
were then coated with ashes.
matic conditions and favored by steep slopes, has
Tournon (1983) identifies basalt lava flows at
allowed the mass landslides phenomenon and
the top as well as basic andesites in Cervantes
subsequent secondary landslides on the masses
lava flows and in Juan Vi~ nas plateau. Cartago
of material already removed.
Plateau is composed of ignimbrites interspersed
2.3.4 Zurquı́ Hills among the andesites. Irazu’s southern slope is
divided into two important morphological sectors:
The Zurquí Hills are located between the
Barva and Irazu stratovolcanoes. They are a vol- The upper Irazu sector has an embossed
canic group composed of the following cones: wavy and multiconvex shape, born just from
12 1. MAJOR STRUCTURAL UNITS OF COSTA RICA

the crags of recent lava flows from the flow (Tournon, 1984) came from the adventitious
volcano, and upholds the southern flank to Pasqui Hill cone and resulted in a natural
the hamlet of Cot. This sector has important damming of the waters of the Reventaz on River
thicknesses of much altered ashes and ancient in today’s Cachí Dam. This had to occur several
andesiticebasaltic lava flows. times in the past and witnesses to this are the
The lower Irazu sector goes from Cot to the four lake terraces of the sector.
volcanic plateau where Cartago sits on a Irazu’s northern slopes are covered with dense
series of four lahars coalescing into cones and mountain primary tropical vegetation and this is
occasional lava outcrops. why they are very different from the south side
(see Fig. 1.4). “Lavakas,” the Malagasy term
The northern sector of the city of Cartago was designating megacircuses caused by erosion,
made particularly by lahars, highlighting two characterize the upper part of the Irazu cone. In
very specific generations, one ancient, at the bot- effect, the northern slope is modeled by scarps
tom, with very altered ochre, made up of lapilli of 985e1640 ft of free fall, whose walls emit sulfu-
and pumice, and the other more recent, higher, ric gas because of their proximity to the volcanic
with healthy rolled chaotic materials (Bergoeing, chimney, a product of rainwater erosive wear.
2007). Lavakas are the first stage of a greater western
The southern slope is also characterized by phenomenon found on the Poas and Barva vol-
the Cervantes lava flow, which is an effusion of cano slopes, which corresponds in reality to
fluid lavas, basalteandesitic, canoe type, which megaslides produced during the Middle Pleisto-
has been dated at 23,000 years BP by the method cene, inside of which there are minor landslides,
of 238Th/232The238U/232Th (Allegre and Con- which are continuing today. It is partly the forest
domine, 1976), but 14C dating rejuvenated it to cover that has stopped the phenomenon, but it
20,000 years BP (Murata et al., 1966). The Strom- can be reactivated with the human colonization
bolian eruption that caused the Cervantes lava of the sector. Some major rivers, such as the

FIGURE 1.4 Irazu Volcano’s


northern slope, very eroded by the
trade winds’ orographic rainfalls
that formed deep canyons in this
stratovolcano. Aerial oblique photo
Bergoeing (2012a).
2. GUANACASTE AND CENTRAL QUATERNARY VOLCANIC RANGES 13
Sucio River, have formed a river network that volcano crater. They expand to the south, east,
has undermined important river canyons with and north. To the east, the top of Dos Novillos
unevenness that can reach 1000 m. This is Hill corresponds to a volcanic cone that is the
possible because the stratovolcanic material is easternmost of the Central Volcanic Mountain
very heterogeneous, comprising considerable Range. The oldest Turrialba volcano lavas
thicknesses of cinder material, low welded tuffs, (basalticeandesitic) go back 2.15 million years,
and lava flows that can fail where waters placed at the end of the Pliocene. One of the
infiltrate. most interesting washes of the Turrialba is the
Peralta Lava Flow, on the southeastern slope,
2.3.6 Turrialba Volcano which draws a curved plateau at the end, reach-
Turrialba Volcano is the easternmost strato- ing the altitude of 1969 ft. During the Pleistocene,
volcano of the Central Volcanic Range of Costa it dammed the runway of the Reventaz on River,
Rica. It rises 10,958 ft above sea level and at its leaving as witnesses the Bonilla Lakes. From that
peak it presents a series of craters, of which the point and heading north, the lower part of the
three main present activity from fumaroles Turrialba cone is composed of powerful coales-
and sulfur gas fumes. The volcano erupted cent alluvial fans, consisting of important thick-
several times in the 19th century (1853, 1855, nesses of lahars associated with the volcanic
1864e1866) with pyroclastic and intense fuma- activity of this massif. The Turrialba volcanic
role emissions. Its ashes arrived at Corinto Port lavas are similar to those of the Irazu volcano,
in Nicaragua. An important volcanic activity although basalts do not abound; they are mostly
started again in 2010 and continues today. The basic andesites (Tournon, 1983). Coalescing lahar
current top cone, like the others in the Central cones descending from the Turrialba evolve
Volcanic Mountain Range, was built during the gradually to alluvial fans and finally glacis that
Holocene, presenting lavas ranging from basalts gradually merge with the great north plain
to dacites. It is estimated that in the past (Nicaragua graben).
3500 years this volcano has had at least five large It is interesting also to note, in the Guapiles City
eruptions with lava emission. In 2007, its activity sector, the Upper Pleistocene lava flows equally
increased dangerously, with sulfurous emissions coming from Turrialba Volcano. In fact a few kilo-
affecting the local population (see Fig. 1.5). meters from this city stand three imposing andes-
Turrialba’s top cone presents a series of pla- itic lava flows, resting on old laharic fans that are
nezes, which are structural plateaus formed of part of the already mentioned coalescing volcanic
considerable thicknesses of lavas and that fans and where surface underground water
descend gently shaped skirts from the top springs, which feed Guapiles City and would be

FIGURE 1.5 Turrialba Volcano,


2012 eruption. Oblique aerial photo
Bergoeing (2012a).
14 1. MAJOR STRUCTURAL UNITS OF COSTA RICA

able to provide water to all the Central Valley. In at the top by ignimbrites. These Pliocenee
the southern crater, Turrialba City is seated on a Quaternary acid deposits are witness to the
major tectonic accident (NNWeSSE fault) maximum extent reached by the volcanic mani-
covered with important lahar thicknesses. Tur- festations of the Guanacaste volcanic range.
rialba Volcano and the nearby Irazu Volcano
form the easternmost volcanic structures of the
Central Volcanic Range. The southern volcanic 4. TILARAN’S TERTIARY
slopes constitute the northern flank of the MOUNTAIN RANGE
eastern Central Valley. In it sits an ancient explo-
sion caldera structure whose remnants extend The Tilaran Mountain Range, 31 miles long, is
from Coliblanco to Juan Vi~ nas. a mountainous unit with a much smaller area
than the Talamanca or Central range. Its natural
boundaries are Lake Arenal to the north; the
3. TEMPISQUE RIVER TECTONIC San Lorenzo River to the northeast, which serves
DEPRESSION as a border with the Central Volcanic Mountain
Range; and to the southeast the Aguacate Moun-
The Tempisque River tectonic depression tain Range, arriving in contact with the Tala-
covers the northern Nicoya Peninsula. It is a tec- manca Mountain Range. Tilaran extends south
tonic subsidence zone pinched between the to the Tarcoles River, if we consider the Aguacate
Guanacaste volcanic range and Nicoya Peninsula, Mountains as forming an integral part of this
both in horst position. The tectonic depression is unit. Indeed, by its geological history and the
oriented NWeSE and is traversed by the Tem- nature of the rocks and their ages, it is possible
pisque River, which flows into it, leaving the to include the mountain range that lies to the
ignimbrite plateau through a deep but short south of the Tarcoles River and part of Santiago
river canyon. The river with its sediments feeds de Puriscal. This part ends with the isolated Tur-
the plain and this is how it has been partly sealing rubares volcanic peak (5761 ft), a Cretaceouse
this depression. However, positive Quaternary Tertiary volcano overlooking the Pacific coast.
tectonics affecting this sector of the country have The Tilaran Mountain Range is the almost
raised regionally a vast sector, which was sub- exclusive product of a Pliocene volcanic activity
merged in the sea during the late Miocene and whose deposits have been regrouped under
formed a broad interior gulf; the pale remnant the name of the Aguacate group or formation
of it today is the Nicoya Gulf. Near the Tempis- (Madrigal, 1972), which includes a large number
que River estuary rises a series of “mogots,” or of effusive rocks. Erosion has eliminated most
hills, which give testimony to the ancient coral of the volcanic centers of this mountain range
reefs formed during the Miocene, and the rising or made them unrecognizable. However, some
plate tectonics are evident in the form of the iso- domes, craters, necks, and caldera elements
lated hills (Barra Honda hills). Inside, there are remain, such as the Palmares collapsed caldera
karstic caverns, the results of infiltration of the or the volcanic unit PeloneMondongoeTinajita
tropical rains into the last remnants of coral lime- (Bergoeing et al., 1978b), as well as ancient vol-
stone. The Tempisque River depression of today canic hot spots: Cerro Tilaran, Cerro Peladoe
is a vast plain, very fertile, exploited by agricul- Delicias, Chopo (basaltic andesitic) (dated from
tural activities. To the west of the Philadelphia 2.03 million years by the 40Ar/39Ar method
sector is a series of isolated hills whose structures by Alvarado and Gans, 2012), Cerro
reveal a fluvial marine past formed by deposits Perdidos, Poco Sol, PeladoseHerrera, Espiritu
of rolled stones and pebbles and are covered Santo (Mora, 1977), and the Cerro Macho
5. TALAMANCA MOUNTAIN RANGE 15
ChingoePelon (Paniagua and Tejera, 1980). Also 5. TALAMANCA MOUNTAIN
in Santiago Alto Tajo, San Ramon, a basaltic lava RANGE
dating gave a Pliocene age of 3.20 million years
(K/Ar) (Bellon and Tournon 1978). Finally, the Gradually, Talamanca’s mountain range has
basalt of the quarry Tajo Alto, near Piedades de been hinting at its volcanic past with the intensi-
Santiago, gave an age of 4.04 million years fying research on its land. Thus, in its Caribbean
(40Ar/39Ar) (data provided by MacMillan et al., watershed, Tournon (1980) for the first time
2004). described a series of explosion calderas along
This volcanic range follows the general direc- the Matama Row. The observations of satellite
tion of the country, whose axis is NWeSE. It has radar imagery have identified a series of volcanic
two well-defined aspects. The northeast slope, structures. This did not escape the eye of Jean
or slope of San Carlos, pours its waters into Tournon, PhD, from the University of Paris VI,
the flood of the northern plain, where rivers, Pierre-Marie Curie. This French geologist will
following a winding path, are tributaries of the be remembered for his Costa Rican geological
San Juan River. The southwest side, or Pacific map on a scale of 1:500,000, published in 1995
slope, is subdivided into three sectors: in Dieppe, France, in which the mentioned sector
1. the northern sector, between the Ca~ nas and was punctuated by a series of basalt structures
the Barranca rivers; dated from the Pliocene, associated with intru-
2. the southern sector, between the Barranca and sive formations mostly of diorite and quartz
the Tarcoles rivers; monzonite as well as granite and gabbro. The
3. the Turrubares volcanic hills sector. 2007 geological map by Percy Denyer and Guil-
lermo Alvarado, at the scale of 1:400,000, pub-
In the western Central Valley, in the sector lished by the French Bookstore in San Jose,
of Palmares, we find the most spectacular takes up part of the indicated information, which
collapsed caldera of the sector. It is an ancient is of vast volcanic areas dating from the Miocene
volcanic structure, from the Pliocene, which to the Late Pliocene that coexist with marine
collapsed at the beginning of the Quaternary. sedimentary formations composed by sand-
Of this is the testimony of dikes on the rim. Post- stone, shale, and conglomerates. These volcanic
collapse volcanism, however, continued giving structures refer mostly to collapsed calderas of
rise to the volcanic cone known as Cerro Espiritu variable dimensions, ranging around 3.7 miles
Santo (4439 ft). The history of the Palmares in diameter (see Fig. 1.6). More to the south,
collapsed caldera extends over the Lower Pleis- there are also old volcanic structures found in
tocene because it once housed a lake. In its the Coastal Mountain Range as the Miocenee
waters were deposited volcanic ashes from the Pliocene alignment goes from the Mano de
volcanic cones that are in the vicinity, in what Tigre volcano through the craters of the Dobon-
would be the Central Volcanic Range (Espiritu cragua to the China Kicha volcano. From the
Santo and Chayote volcanoes). The ashes were Paso Real sector to China Kicha, the Coastal
locked up in small spherical coffee-colored Mountain Range on its border with the General
clayey matrices the size of marbles, by the effects River is characterized by a volcanic modeling in
of the rotating movements of the waters of the which are a series of structures very altered by
lake, and were deposited at the bottom. The erosion.
lake, before being completely burst, emptied The geological sector known as the Paso Real
eastward, through the Grande River tectonic Formation, composed of volcanic conglomerates,
fault, which took advantage of the crushing of is actually a Pliocene volcanic complex (Bergoeing
rocks to dig a deep canyon. et al., 1978b) J.P. Bergoeing has already
16 1. MAJOR STRUCTURAL UNITS OF COSTA RICA

83°45ʹ0ʺW 83°30ʹ0ʺW 83°15ʹ0ʺW

10°0ʹ0ʺN

9°45ʹ0ʺN

8 4 0 8 16
Km

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
9 10 11 12 13

FIGURE 1.6 Neogene calc-alkaline magmatism and caldera structures on the Talamanca mountain range Caribbean slopes,
which date back to the Pliocene and were formed in a marine environment before the orogeny. Modified by the author from
Denyer’s geological map (2007) and the satellite radar image (D: CR_RADAR\CR_HILLSHADES\). (1) Upper Pleistocene
volcanism. (2) Middle Pleistocene volcanism. (3 and 4) Lower Pleistocene volcanism. (5) Quaternary, transitional coastal
and continental sedimentation. (6) Tertiary volcanism of Talamanca (MioceneePliocene). (7) Granodiorite intrusive of Tala-
manca. (8) Tertiary sedimentary (Uscari and Senosri formations). (9) Volcanic calderas. (10) Reverse tectonic faults. (11) Undif-
ferentiated faults. (12) Crater of the Turrialba. (13) Sliding faults.

recognized the structure of the Mano de Tigre volcanic cone, where it is possible to observe a
volcano, which lies in El Brujo sector and has crater in the sector of the town and two struc-
an age of 10 million years. From this position, tures inside (visible only in satellite radar
there is a diversity of volcanic forms, remains images).
of craters, calderas, and planezes associated Finally, the Talamanca Mountain Range, at its
with lahars in a much-altered state. southern end, conceals a series of small volcanic
Further north is a particular volcanic complex cones that are nothing more than the extension
that would correspond to the China Kicha of the volcanic system previously described
5. TALAMANCA MOUNTAIN RANGE 17
between the Mano de Tigre and the China Kicha It is possible to access Irkibi Volcano through
volcanoes. Talamanca’s mountain range is char- Alturas Farm. The volcanic cone is located to
acterized by two dissymmetrical watersheds. the east of the Frantzius volcano following an
The first one falls to the Pacific, with strong but alignment of magma extrusion as already indi-
short and deep slopes, and the second one, cated. It is composed of several summits that
with gentler slopes, goes to the Caribbean. It is leave one to assume many other craters where
an eminently volcanic area where stands the lava flowed: the Mount Chai cone of 6890 ft,
Cerro Fabrega caldera, open to the west, as well with the Irkibi cone (7251 ft) (see Fig. 1.7), and
as Frantzius Hill (7001 ft), Cerro Pittier Hill further to the east the Cerro Bellavista cone
(9331 ft), Cerro Gemelo (8865 ft) (volcanic cones), (6719 ft), a volcanic package fitted only by the
and other structures that are located more to Cotilo River. At the foot of Mount Chai, lava
the southwest. flows abound, composed of dacites, according
These two recent volcanic cones could be to an analysis by the Central American School
associated with the postcollapse Fabrega caldera. of Geology. West, the Bellavista River separates
The volcanism originated in the Upper Miocene the first described volcanic ensemble from a
and lasted until the end of the Pliocene and it is new volcanic system. It is the Cedro alignment,
likely that it reached into the Lower Quaternary. of 8995 ft, whose summit presents an old
The moment in which Talamanca’s orogenesis caldera. All these volcanic summits are limited
began originated in the basaltic to andesitic to the south by the Coton River, and they are
rocks. The oldest rocks in the sector are sedimen- probably Pliocene. Among them are granodio-
tary, formed of shale and conglomerates at the ritic rock deposits that would indicate a
beginning of the Tertiary (PaleoceneeEocene). Pliocene volcanic extrusion coming from the
They are folded, forming synclines and anticlines, granodioritic CretaceouseMiocene Talamanca’s
and in the area of contact are covered by volcanic batholith, and which would be extended to
deposits from the end of the Tertiary. the northwest with the volcanic complex

FIGURE 1.7 Volcanic Irkibi


Mount, 7218 ft high, covered by a
dense tropical forest. Photo Bergoeing
(2011a).
18 1. MAJOR STRUCTURAL UNITS OF COSTA RICA

FIGURE 1.8 Maximum W€urmeWisconsinian ice age extension in Cerro Fabrega, PanamaeCosta Rica border (Bergoeing,
2011a). (1) Paleo. The Riss and the W€urm glacier parking. (2) Paleo. Snow parking during the Riss and the W€
urm. (3) Paleo.
P
aramo area. (4) Paleosavannas. (5) Paleoglacier circuses. (6) Edges of paleoglacier origin. (7) U-shaped paleovalleys. (8)
Moraine deposits. (9) Paleoglacier valleys with moraines. (10) Slopes from erosion. (11) V-shaped valleys. (12) Divortium
aquarium, or line of water partition. (13) International border Costa Rica and Panama.

TigreeDoboncragua, hand dated to the Plio- the upper Pleistocene (Bergoeing, 2011a) (see
cene, of age 4e5 million years (K/Ar), by Kessel Figs. 1.8 and 1.9).
in 0 (in Alvarado, 2000). Indeed various studies in the field have
In conclusion, we can say that Costa Rica is allowed the determination of the presence of
a country that is eminently volcanic and its huge erratic blocks in the General valley that
structural construction is due to the clash of are the results of the RisseW€ urm interglacial
the Cocos and the Caribbean tectonic plates, or glacial lakes, moraines, tarns, bolts, and
which has resulted in the already described volca- U-shaped valleys, which are strong evidence of
nism and orogeny that has raised the whole to a the glacial parking suffered by the high peaks in
maximum altitude of 12,530 ft (Cerro Chirrip o the upper Pleistocene when the orogeny exceeded
Mountain in Talamanca). This allowed the occur- altitudes higher than 9850 ft. The oldest volcanic
rence of the Riss and W€ urm ice ages during and intrusive structures of the Talamanca
6. THE PACIFIC LITTORAL 19
FIGURE 1.9 Tarns or paleogla-
cier lakes of Chirrip o summit
12,500 ft above sea level surrounded
by W€ urmeWisconsinian deposits
of moraines; Talamanca Mountain
Range. Photo Bergoeing (1982a,b).

Mountain Range disappeared because of and which marks the beginning of the Flandrian
erosion, even through their relicts allow us to transgression (6620  150 years BP).
know its past, but Late Tertiary volcanic struc- The Central Pacific of Costa Rica is a both a
tures remain standing as a testimony to this tectonic and a climatic transition area. Indeed,
igneous predominance in the country. south of the Tarcoles River the influence of the
Cocos and Caribbean tectonic plates and the
Panama subplate is evident. It is therefore an
6. THE PACIFIC LITTORAL important seismic zone. The promontory of
Quepos is the only notable accident that breaks
The Pacific littoral of Costa Rica is composed the monotony of the Flandrian coastal cords of
of four peninsulas, Santa Elena, Nicoya, Quepos, this sector of the Central Pacific. It is a sector
and Osa, and Punta Burica. Here you will find where emerge, at the base of the coastal relief,
the oldest volcanic outcrops of the country the rocks of the end of the Cretaceous that are
dating back to the Cretaceous. The Santa Elena characterized by being basalt (pillow lavas)
Peninsula is a flake of the seabed made of green and pelagic limestone. However, here are large
metamorphic rocks where the serpentine perido- coastal plains where the Parrita and Naranjo
tite is predominant. The Nicoya Peninsula and rivers have built deltas covered by mangroves
Osa, as well as the promontory of Quepos, are on both sides of this coastal promontory and
the oldest remnants of a predominantly basaltic there is no doubt they were built after the Flan-
island volcanism at the end of the Cretaceous. drian transgression.
At Montezuma Beach, at the tip of the Nicoya However, the country’s largest mangrove is
Peninsula, Bergoeing (2007) has dated, by 14C located at the mouth of the Grande de Terraba
in France, a lumachelle level that is located 7 m River, which despite its mouth, is a delta where
from sea level, by a strong positive neotectonism, the main channel has been running gradually
20 1. MAJOR STRUCTURAL UNITS OF COSTA RICA

northward because of the neotectonic process of Limon, up to the level of 33 ft, was submerged
the sector. The river mouth, covered by a vast by the Flandrian transgression until 6000 years
mangrove swamp, was built up since the Flan- ago and since then it has emerged, aided by pos-
drian regression period 6000 years ago. itive neotectonics, as was been demonstrated by
The Osa Peninsula, less extended than the the Limon earthquake of 1991, which raised the
Nicoya, is mainly a plateau of sedimentary field by 3e6 ft.
and volcanic rocks resting on Cretaceous South of Limon, the coastline becomes nar-
basaltic basement. The Osa Peninsula is tilted rower and forms an ancient reef fringe raised by
toward the northwest as well as Punta Burica the neotectonics giving origin to a coastal terrace
by the effects of the clash of the Nazca plate, bordered by a littoral cord to Cahuita Point,
which slides against the Cocos plate, and a where is the only living reef of this sector of the
result is that the greatest depths of the Golfo coastal strip. From Cahuita the coral reef emerges
Dulce are in the northwest sector of the gulf from the coast and extends to Bocas del Toro,
and not in its mouth. Panama.
Recent geomorphological studies of the north-
ern sector of the Caribbean Costa Rican facade
7. THE CARIBBEAN LITTORAL allow one to conclude that contact between Lake
Nicaragua and the Caribbean Sea was definitely
The Costa Rican Caribbean coast, north of the close during the Eemian. In fact, the Ca~no Negro
Limon promontory and port, is characterized by sector constituted until the Holocene part of
a straight coastline that contrasts with the large the Nicaragua paleolake, fed by constant contri-
bays, which were drawn to the south of this butions of volcanic material transported by the
port by Flandrian coastal cords, aligned in paral- rivers from the Quaternary volcanic mountain
lel with the strong littoral drift. Inside is a series ranges of Costa Rica. Currently the cones reach
of navigable canals (Tortuguero canals) tipped longitudinal extensions that vary from 18 to
by a dense tropical riparian vegetation that are 35 miles and are completed by glacis in which
silent witnesses to the recent emergence of this run paleochannels containing remaining wet-
coast. In fact, we can say that the plain north of lands and wildlife (Bergoeing and Protti, 2007

FIGURE 1.10 Tortuguero chan-


nels. Oblique aerial photography
Bergoeing (2012a).
7. THE CARIBBEAN LITTORAL 21
in Bergoeing et al., 2007). The glacis reach 66 ft in and in lakes (today swamps) that are in process
altitude before contact, in some cases, with the of drying. However, these testimonies are now
margins of the San Juan River. During the Flan- in many cases at more than 33 ft of altitude and
drian, the area was flooded to the Caribbean others are at 16 ft above sea level, which would
Sea, which occupied all areas below that altitude, be an anomaly, knowing that the Flandrian
taking into account the positive neotectonics, transgression did not surpass 6.5e13 ft, with-
which corresponds to the Nicaragua graben. out the positive neotectonics very active in
The knowledge of the changes in the coastal Costa Rica due to the collision of the Cocos
relief of Costa Rica during the Holocene are and Caribbean tectonic plates. This knowledge
interesting in particular not only to the country would also allow the preparation of a paleoto-
but to the international scientific community. pographic map of the Costa Rican relief during
During the Flandrian (7000 years BP) the sea that period and the interconnections that
penetrated deeply into the coastal low sectors existed between Lake Nicaragua and a paleo-
of Costa Rica, making its printed mark in ma- San Juan River much vaster than at present,
rine fossils (as lumachelles of Montezuma), in fos- with the consequent migration of lacustrine
sil deposits of sand (coastal cords) (see Fig. 1.10), and marine faunas.
C H A P T E R

2
Natural Shape Types in Costa Rica
O U T L I N E

1. Paleoglacier and Paleonival Forms 24 5.2 Guanacaste Volcanic Range 33


1.1 Chirripo’s Paleoglacier Shapes 24 5.2.1 The Northeast Watershed 33
1.2 Cerro de la Muerte Paleonival Forms 25 5.2.2 Southwest Watershed 33
2. Multifaceted Shapes 26 6. Floodplain Shapes 34
2.1 Forest Sector 26 6.1 The Great Northern Floodplain 35
2.2 Solifluction Sector 26 6.2 Paleolacustrine Geomorphology: Southern
Sector of Lake Nicaragua 38
3. Multiconvex Modeling 28
6.3 Middle to Upper Pleistocene Alluvial
4. Piedmont Accumulation Shapes 29 Fans 39
4.1 Alluvial Fans 29 6.4 The FluvialeLacustrine Terraces 39
4.2 Accumulation of Glacis 29 6.5 The FluvialeLacustrine Terrace of the
4.3 Fluvial Terraces 30 Frío River 40
6.6 Frío River Basin 40
5. Large Quaternary Volcano Shapes 32
6.7 Drilling of Deep Wells 41
5.1 The Central Volcanic Range 32
6.8 Lake Ca~no Negro 42
5.1.1 The Northern Slope 32
5.1.2 The Southern Slope 32

Costa Rica, a mountainous country, possesses and act still in our days, on this vigorous relief,
two oceanic facades. Nestled in the humid trop- inherited from the Plio-Quaternary orogeny,
ical zone, it presents a diversity of shapes and have built various models, which distribute at
models, which are the products of geological different altitudes. This is how large morpholog-
heritage (nature of rocks, volcanism, neotecton- ical climatic areas of Costa Rica distribute in
ics, etc.) as well as the climatic oscillation games altimetry order. To the north, the country is
that occurred during the Quaternary (pluvial formed of large floodplains (ancient tectonic de-
periods, or biostasis, and interpluvials, or rexi- pressions of the Nicaragua graben and the Tem-
stasis). The natural phenomena that have acted, pisque River plain, silted by Quaternary floods).

Geomorphology and Volcanology of Costa Rica


http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-812067-5.00002-2 23 Copyright © 2017 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
24 2. NATURAL SHAPE TYPES IN COSTA RICA

The PlioceneeQuaternary volcanic mountain progressing between 11,480 and 12,140 ft above
ranges of Guanacaste and Tilaran separate the sea level. This becomes a reality because average
plains. These, as we will see, are differentiated temperatures vary between 43 and 50 F. The sum-
among themselves by their different shapes. mits are frequently subject to thick mist due to the
The center of the country is represented by the clash of moist air masses coming from both
Central Valley, a high basin bordered to the oceans. On the Cerro de la Muerte, Chirrip o, and
north by the Central Volcanic Range, in which Kamuk peaks located at more than 11,480 ft of
certain volcanoes are in permanent activity altitude, frost is frequent at night. These peaks
(Poas, Irazu, and Turrialba) and by this one know equally sporadic precipitation of snow. At
fact create and give great young volcanic forms. the Chirrip o summit, in the Moraine Valley,
To the south, the country has a greater variety Kohkemper (1968) in Weyl (1980) measured a tem-
of models, the Talamanca Mountain Range, perature of 17.6 F (see Fig. 2.1).
including the imposing Chirrip o Mountain, Geomorphological implications of ancient
with an altitude of 12,530 ft. This impressive colder periods are visible only in the peaks of
mountainous mass allows a complete distribu- the Talamanca Mountain Range. In other sectors,
tion of forms at the different altitudes because and particularly in the volcanic cone of the Irazu
of its elevation. Thus, we find shapes ranging (11,260 ft), or the Turrialba (10,955 ft), there is no
from paleoglacial forms to modeled coastlines. evidence, because of volcanic eruptions (Irazu’s
For this reason, we have elaborated seven most recent eruption was in 1963).
fundamental morphologic types of models or
shapes:
1.1 Chirrip
o’s Paleoglacier Shapes
1. Paleoglacier and paleonival forms
Mainly on the Chirrip
o and Kamuk summits,
2. Multifaceted shapes
it is possible to see small glacier circuses, well
3. Multiconvex modeling
developed, whose bottoms are at 11,811 ft alti-
4. Piedmont accumulation shapes
tude. A wider ones is located upstream of the
5. Large Quaternary volcano shapes
Talari River and extends over an area covering
6. Floodplain shapes
0.6 square mile. The circus walls have a slope
ranging from 500 to 650 ft. At the feet of the cir-
cuses, small valleys of concave shape have
1. PALEOGLACIER AND “locks” and “navels,” which are in the sector
PALEONIVAL FORMS reaching up to touch small circular lakes or tarns.
The concave valleys, or U valleys, develop for a
Weyl (1955a) was the first to describe, in the distance of only 0.6 to 1.2 miles. The circuses
Chirrip o Mountain (12,530 ft) sector, paleogla- are surrounded by sharp and well-preserved
cier forms of the Talamanca Mountain Range edges, modeled in a rocky material, eminently
and speaks of “Pleistocene vestiges of Ice Age.” granodiorite in the area of Chirrip o Mountain,
Indeed, in the Talamanca Mountain Range and and a material of volcanic origin with respect
approximately on Cerro de la Muerte Mountain, to Kamuk. Some U valleys are suspended. The
from 9186 ft of altitude, trees disappear progres- Lake Valley of Cerro Chirrip o Grande is fur-
sively, giving way to a shrub vegetation and scrub- nished with small lakes of glacial erosion, or
land and then to a subalpine floor, leaving to some are located just behind small underdevel-
appear a few extensive spaces of soil half covered oped terminal moraines (Moraines Valley, Uran
by vegetation. Above, already on the top of the mountainous row). The strong diurnal tempera-
Chirripo, appears a wet alpine form, the paramo, ture fluctuations create effects of cryoclastism
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eat that too. He had eaten so
much, though, that he couldn’t; so
he put it into his pocket. “It will do
for my breakfast,” he thought.
Poor Tursio was much ashamed of
the marionette, and Marsovino
was not less so. If they had only
known that Pinocchio was so rude
as to take things from the table
and put them into his pocket, they
would never have invited him to
dinner. Still they did not say a
word.
“Run along, now, children. Mr.
Beluga and I must talk about
business, and we cannot have you
around.”
“‘It will do for my Breakfast,’ he thought.”

The two boys left the dolphins together and went off. While enjoying
themselves looking around, Marsovino picked up something which
looked like a chain. It was made of small round balls all alike, and
transparent. He handed it to Pinocchio.
“Tell me,” he said, “do you know what this is?”
“Why, yes, it is a bead chain. It is easy enough to know that.”
“Are you sure?”
“Yes, of course. I have seen them
many times around little girls’ necks.”
“And if I told you that they are eggs—”
“Eggs?” murmured Pinocchio. “Eggs?
This thing?”
“Yes, sir, that is what they really are;
the eggs of a halibut. It is a bad habit,
Pinocchio, to make believe you know
a thing when you do not. I am afraid I
am not going to be your friend.”
“Not my friend?” came from the poor
shamefaced marionette.
“No. Mr. Tursio has always told me to keep away from boys who—”
“Tell lies, I suppose you want to say,” finished Pinocchio.
“I was told to go with boys who are polite,” continued Marsovino.
“And instead I even take the plates away with me when I am invited
to dinner,” said Pinocchio.
“I was told to make friends with educated children.”
“And I—yes, I might as well confess it—I have hardly ever seen the
inside of a classroom in my life. Well, Marsovino, I will try to make
myself your friend. Will you try me again?”
“Very well, I will. Now let us return.”
The dolphins were still talking busily when the boys came up to
them. They seemed very much in earnest.
“Here we are, father,” called Marsovino.
“At last! Where have you been? We have important things to say to
you. Come here, both of you!”
“What is it? We are all ears.”
“My friend Beluga has been telling me that while I have been away
from home I have lost much money. He has told me of a great
treasure that is to be found in an old ship far away from here. As I
need it very much just now, I do wish I could get hold of it.”
“Well,” answered Marsovino, “why can’t we go for it?”
“Because it is miles and miles away. Not only that, but we should
have to travel as far up as the polar seas, and into the great oceans.
We could never do it. You see, I am getting old. I could hardly
attempt to cross those icy waters. Still, I need the money so much
that I am afraid I shall have to try the journey.”
“Why couldn’t Globicephalous and I go instead of you, father?”
asked Marsovino.
“And I also,” timidly added Pinocchio.
“Globicephalous is too old. And as for you two, my dear boys, you do
not know what you are saying. Do you know that for months and
months the polar seas are in darkness? That the sun is seen only in
the spring and summer?”
“I know, but it is now winter, and we should reach those seas just at
the right time. We should be back before the fall.”
“And are you not afraid of the cold?”
“It will not be cold. I will swim deep in the water, and there the water
will be warm. I will come to the surface only long enough to breathe.”
“What about the ice? What about those monsters of the seas, the
whales, the sharks, the narwhals?”
“You need the treasure. I have made up my mind to go,” answered
Marsovino, firmly.
“You might escape all the dangers I mention, my boy, and reach the
ship. But how could you ever get hold of the gold inside?”
“I might tear a hole in the ship with my strong tail,” began Marsovino.
“A ship a block long, and all made of iron? It is of no use, my boy.”
The young dolphin was silent. How could he get into the ship? He
thought and thought, but he could find no answer.
“May I go, too?” here began Pinocchio.
“You?” asked Tursio and Marsovino, at the same time.
“Yes, I. Why not? If Marsovino cannot get into the ship because he is
too big, I am so small I can get into any hole,” continued the
marionette.
“That isn’t a bad idea, is it, father?”
“No, but do you really feel courageous enough, you two, to
undertake such a journey?”
“We’ll do our best,” answered Marsovino.
“Well, then, all right. Let us return to Globicephalous, and then you
will get ready to start. Beluga, I will be with you again soon. I might
as well wait here with you for Marsovino and Pinocchio to return.”
After saying good-by to Beluga the young dolphin followed Tursio,
who seemed in haste to get to Globicephalous.
Sitting on the dolphin’s back,
Pinocchio was thinking how good he
had been in offering to go with
Marsovino. But he soon forgot this in
another surprise. In front of him, not
far away, he saw a number of animals
rise out of the sea.
They rose, shook their colored wings
gaily, and then fell back again into the
water. No sooner had they
disappeared than others came, and
then again others. How beautiful they
were! Red, blue, and green, and
shining brightly in the sun.
“Birds in the sea! Oh, they will drown!”
screamed Pinocchio.
“Oh, no, these birds will not drown. They live in the sea, my boy.
They are called flying fish,” explained Tursio.
“When shall I stop hearing news?” wondered Pinocchio. “So there
are also birds in the sea!”
“Almost birds, but not quite. These fish have very strong fins and
with them they can leap very high. As you see, they even leap out of
the water. Why do they do this, do you think? Because they want to
escape from the large fish, which follow them to eat them.”
Pinocchio had nothing to say. Meanwhile, the three friends had
reached the place where Globicephalous was waiting. Tursio told
him in a few words what Marsovino and Pinocchio had planned to do
to help him.
Very soon the two boys were ready to start.
“Well, good-by, boys,” said Tursio, after telling them how to reach the
ship. “I will no longer try to stop you from going. Only be careful.
Keep to yourselves, and you will meet with little trouble. Do not stop
on your way. Hasten back, or I shall be worried. Above all, never get
out of the water. The tide might go out, and you, Marsovino, would
be in great danger.”
Marsovino and Pinocchio listened carefully; and then, with a cheerful
good-by, they were off.
A few hours later Tursio and Globicephalous were with Beluga, and
Marsovino and Pinocchio were speeding away towards the great
oceans, treasure hunting.
CHAPTER XII
Marsovino and Pinocchio traveled swiftly. They
passed a strait, crossed a canal, left beautiful lands
behind them, and at last came out fearlessly into
the great ocean. They never stopped.
When the moon shone they traveled on the surface
of the water. If the sky was dark and gloomy, the
dolphin plunged deep into the sea. There the two
friends had plenty of light. Great medusæ and sun
fishes made the water light and bright. Very often,
too, the wonderful phosphorescence of the sea
aided them in seeing their way. Pinocchio felt satisfied when
Marsovino explained the cause of this phosphorescence to him. At
first, though, he could hardly believe his ears.
“When the Moon shone they traveled on the Surface of the
Water.”

The journey was very peaceful, and nothing came to trouble the two
little heroes.
“What is that dark blue streak there, Marsovino?” asked Pinocchio,
one day. He was pointing out a wide band of dark blue water, which
stood out distinctly from the lighter green of the ocean.
“That? Oh, that is the Gulf Stream,” answered Marsovino.
“The Gulf Stream? What are you talking about? A stream running in
the ocean! Water running in water!”
“Yes, of course it is all water. But there is a difference between ocean
water and Gulf Stream water. The first, in general, is quiet, the
second is moving. That stream is just like a river flowing between
two valleys. The waters of the two never mix. If you try, you will find
that the ocean is much the colder of the two.”
“But what is the use of it?”
“Why, it is of great use. This stream carries warmth to the cold
regions of the north. It cools the hot countries of the tropics. Without
this saving current, life would not be pleasant in many countries.”
“Hurrah for the river in the middle of the sea, then!” shouted
Pinocchio. He had understood little, so he thought it better not to
speak further on the subject.
Towards noon of the same day the sea began to be filled with
herrings. They were on all sides. Our two travelers were surrounded.
Pinocchio enjoyed being with the silvery animals.
Soon, however, there were so many that Marsovino found it hard to
move. Still, the kind little fellow, seeing that Pinocchio was enjoying
himself, did not try to get away. After a while, however, the herrings
became so numerous that the ocean looked like a sea of silver, not
of water. Pinocchio and the dolphin were being pushed and shoved
around without mercy.
“I am being killed, stifled,” whispered Pinocchio. Yes, he whispered.
If he had opened his mouth a herring could easily have slipped into
it. This might not have been very pleasant.
Marsovino finally saw that the herring had become as thick as a
stone wall. So with a few strong strokes of his tail, he made his way
to the surface of the water.
“Ah! now I can breathe!” exclaimed
Pinocchio. “In that fishy world I
thought I should die.”
As night had come, and as it was very
dark, our friends began to think of
sleep. Anyway, even if they had tried
to move, they could hardly have
passed through that multitude.
Just as the sun rose, Pinocchio
opened his eyes. He had had a very
good sleep on the back of his
swimming horse. Looking around, he
could not help crying out in surprise.
“Marsovino! Wake up!” he called. “Just
look! Yesterday we were swimming in a sea of silver. To-day we are
floating in milk.”
It was really the truth. No sign of herrings was left. But as far as eye
could reach one could see only a thick heavy liquid as white as milk.
“Oh, how splendid!” cried Pinocchio. “Now I can have as much milk
as I want. It looks good.”
Marsovino had awakened, but he never said a word. He wanted to
see what Pinocchio would do. The marionette, thinking himself right,
bent over and took a long drink of milk, as he thought. But he had no
sooner had a taste than he made a wry face.
“Why, it is salty.”
“Of course it is. Is this the first time you have heard of the sea being
salt?”
“But this is not water. Look how white it is. It looks like milk.”
“Do you know why it is so? The water looks white because of the
eggs left in it by the herrings of yesterday.”
“Eggs? But there must be thousands of them?”
“Yes, and millions.”
“But the sea will soon be full of herrings, then.”
“No fear of that, Pinocchio. Think of the many large fish that are in
the sea. They live on these eggs and on small fishes. Why, they can
and they do swallow hundreds of eggs at a time. The sea is big
enough to hold all its fish and more. You don’t think we are crowded,
do you?”
“Last night we certainly were.”
“One night is not every night. You see, herrings travel in great
numbers, and we happened to meet a school of them.”
“Oh, they go to school, do they? Well, I never before thought a fish
had to go to school, too!” mumbled Pinocchio to himself.
After traveling a long time through the milky sea, the two travelers at
last came out of it.
Soon after a long, sharp, flat blade rose suddenly out of the water. It
looked like a sword, and Pinocchio, of course, thought it was one.
“What have we here?” he asked. “A soldier battling in the sea? And
is that thing his sword?”
“You can hardly be blamed for thinking it a sword. It looks very much
like one,” said Marsovino. “It is the long upper jaw of a fish, and from
this it receives its name, swordfish. With this weapon, as it is very
strong, the fish can defend himself against much larger animals. I
hope he won’t come near us.”
Luckily for the two friends, he did not. The sword disappeared into
the sea, and the travelers continued their journey.
“I must dive now, to see where we are,” said Marsovino; and soon
Pinocchio found himself at the bottom of the sea. Curious as ever,
the marionette looked around, peering here and peering there.
Seeing some cuplike objects hanging on the rocks,
he put out his hands for them. They looked very soft
and were full of holes. But as soon as Pinocchio
touched them, the holes disappeared, and the cups
clung tightly to the rocks.
“Oh, excuse me,” begged Pinocchio, “I thought you
were sponges.”
“And what are they, if not that?” laughingly asked Marsovino.
“But they move just as if they were alive!”
“And is not the sponge an animal?”
“Really? Do you mean it?”
“Why, yes. The sponge is not only one animal, but a number of
animals living together. And what do you think hides in that cuplike
sponge you see there, to live a quiet happy life in it?”
“What?”
“The pearl oyster.”
“Honestly? Oh! Do you think I could get some? I know how precious
pearls are. Why, I could make myself rich! I could buy houses and
horses and automobiles and—Oh! Oh!” and Pinocchio started to
dance a jig on the sandy floor.
Marsovino was laughing.
“You may try. You may have luck.”
Pinocchio did not have to be told twice. He searched and searched
every sponge he could lay his hands on. As a result, he found a
great many shells.
“And what now?” he asked.
“Now you must open them, to see if any pearls are inside.”
“What is the use of opening them? You said these were all pearl
oysters. I’ll carry them and open them later.”
“But many of them may have no pearls
at all. You see,” continued Marsovino,
opening a shell, “this one has none. But
do you see this coating of many colors
on the inside of the shell? That is a
substance which comes from the body
of the mollusk. It is called mother of
pearl. When the oyster opens its shell, a
grain of sand may get into it. The oyster
does not like this, as the stone hurts her,
but she can’t throw it out. So she covers
it up with this substance from her body.
When the little stone is all covered up,
we have a lovely pearl.”
“Who would ever have thought such a thing
possible!” thought Pinocchio, getting to
work. He soon had a large number of
oysters; but when he opened them he found
only a few small balls.
“Come here, Pinocchio. You may have
better luck in this corner,” and Marsovino
led the way to a nook in the rocks. “Look in
there.”
Again Pinocchio searched, and soon a
great many shells lay at his feet ready to be
opened. Without mercy, he went at them,
tearing and pulling the poor little creatures from their homes. His
search finished, he threw them aside. The sand was soon covered
with the dead and the dying.
“Poor little beings!” observed Marsovino. “After they have given you
their pearls, is that the way to treat them? Could you not be more
careful?”
Pinocchio had a kind soul. He was only thoughtless. So he went to
work and tried to undo the wrong he had done. Those oysters which
were only slightly hurt he put back into their shells; while he ate the
others, and so ended their sufferings.
This work finished, he went on with his search for pearls. In a short
time he had a small pile of beautiful pearls. Some were large, some
small, some globular, and others shaped like drops of water.
In color, too, they were different. Almost all were white, some faintly
pink, a few grayish, and one was all black.
“Well, Pinocchio, you have enough. With them you will be as rich as
the king of China. Come now. We must go on with our journey.”
“But these pearls, where shall I put them? I wish I had a bag or a
box.”
“It will not be so hard to find that. Let’s look around.”
The dolphin swam around. He did not stay away long. Soon he came
back, holding a small object out to Pinocchio. It was a little cubical
body, and seemed like a strange-looking box.
“Here is the box, my friend,” he called.
“Well, what is this?” asked Pinocchio, looking at the object. It was
hard and dark, and reminded him of the shell which had saved his
life.
“That was a fish.”
“A fish? That box?”
“Exactly. This is only its shell, but once a fish lived in it. It is called
the sea urchin. That box you have there helps him to defend himself.
Do you notice how hard it is?”
“Well, the sea is certainly a wonderful place. Once upon a time I
hated it. Now I should like to be a fish, so as to live in it always.”
CHAPTER XIII
The journey was progressing rapidly. Blue skies
and green countries had disappeared. Gone were
the many-colored fish. Sea and sky were of a dark
gray color. Why all this? Because our two friends
had reached the cold north, where for so many
months no sun shines.
Luckily, though, spring had begun. The sun showed
itself for a while every day. And every day it showed
itself a little longer. In the summer it would be there even at midnight.
The cold was very great. Pinocchio had a fur suit which Tursio had
given him, but still he was almost freezing. Marsovino also suffered.
“It will be better for us if we dive deep into the sea,” he observed.
“We shall find it warmer there.”
“Please wait awhile,” begged Pinocchio.
“I want to see that island first,” and with
his hand Pinocchio pointed to a high
mountain still far away. It was as white
as snow, and seemed almost to touch
the sky.
“Oh, you want to see that island,”
repeated Marsovino, chuckling to
himself. “Very well.”
“Yes, it does look queer, doesn’t it? I
wonder if there are people on it?”
“Perhaps. We shall see.”
It seemed as if the island had heard
Pinocchio speak. Strange to say, it was
coming to meet the dolphin and his friend. And with it were two
others.
“Look! look!” shouted Pinocchio. “The islands at the pole walk! This
is fun!”
“Yes, they are taking a walk, as you see,” answered Marsovino, who
was enjoying himself, too. “But if they come nearer, our journey will
end right here.”
He had not finished speaking when a
terrific noise was heard. The sound
was deafening. Pinocchio found
himself thrown from his horse into the
water. When he opened his eyes—he
always closed them when he was
frightened—no islands were to be
seen.
“Marsovino! Marsovino! Help! Help!”
he cried, fearing he had lost his friend.
“Here I am! Come!”
Swiftly the marionette swam to the
dolphin, and again climbed on his
back.
“Will you please tell me what happened to those islands? Or are we
in fairyland? I never knew lands could disappear in a minute like
that!”
“Those were not islands, my dear Pinocchio. They were icebergs.
These great mountains of ice, when they come against each other,
are broken into bits. See, all that is left of them are pieces of ice;”
and Marsovino pointed to ice which was floating on the sea.
The next day Pinocchio had another surprise. In front of him, as far
as he could see, was a city of ice. Everything was flat, everything
was white.
Immense landscapes, snowy white, met his eye wherever he turned.
Mountains of ice could be seen in the distance. And, wonderful to
see, the ice was so clear and transparent that it looked like glass.
When the sun shone on it, it sparkled and showed all the colors of
the rainbow.
Pinocchio thought himself in fairyland. But as he was looking, a
strong wind rose suddenly; and then the icebergs fell and broke with
deafening noise.
Finally, Marsovino thought it best to
swim far under water. He was afraid of
losing his life in the midst of all those
icebergs.
Two days later the two boys rounded
the southern point of Greenland. On
the sandy shore of this island
continent could be seen a large
number of animals. They had round
clumsy bodies, each having a small
head with two small bright eyes.
Where we have arms, they had what
looked like very strong fins.
These animals were seals. Their bodies were covered with reddish-
brown fur. Lying on the sand, they were enjoying the warmth of the
sun. The young ones were playing with one another and enjoying
themselves, too.
Pinocchio paid little attention to them. But suddenly out of the water
came another band. The newcomers were somewhat different from
the seals, but they belonged to the same family.
Their fur was almost black, not brown, and their heads were larger.
They were walruses. From their mouths two long, thick ivory teeth
protruded. They looked very fierce, and soon they showed their
fierceness.
Seeing that the beach was occupied, and wanting it for themselves,
they started to fight for it. The seals fought very bravely, but what
could they do against those terrible teeth? The poor wounded beasts
struggled and kept up cries of “pa—pa—pa—pa.”
“Listen to that. They are calling ‘papa.’ I never thought fish could
talk,” said Pinocchio.
“First of all, seals are not fish, but mammals. And
then there are some fish which do produce sounds.
Tunnies, when out of the water, cry like children.
Some poulpes, when caught, groan. Others make a
sound like a whistle.”
“I am ready to believe anything,” Pinocchio said
very weakly. “But what is a poulpe?”
“Oh, that is another name for the octopus or
devilfish,” was the reply.
The fight continued, but the seals were soon conquered. The
victorious walruses were not to enjoy their victory, however.
While the fight was still waging, some fishermen had quietly come up
to the field of battle. Before long many of the combatants lay dead,
and were carried away into boats. The few that were left forgot the
fight, and were happy enough to escape into the water.
CHAPTER XIV
The boys traveled two weeks longer, and at last
Marsovino thought himself near his destination. So
he dived into the water to a great depth.
After a while, as he sank deeper and deeper into
the sea, Pinocchio became frightened. They were
down so far that no light from the sun could reach
them.
“Where are you carrying me to, my dear?” he
asked. “If we go any farther, we cannot possibly live. How could we,
with this immense amount of water over us?”
“We’ll be all right, my boy, never fear. If little fish like that can live
here, why, so can we.”
Marsovino was pointing to many horrible dark objects which were
swimming around him. They had a round head, great black bodies,
no eyes, and from their heads a long thread moved about in the
water. At the end of the threads were small lights.
“What ugly things!” said Pinocchio. “What are they, and why do they
have those small lights on their heads?”
“If you look closely, you will see that those little beings have no eyes.
So they depend on these lights for their food. Other animals are
drawn to the lights. When they are near enough these animals feel
them. Then they are seized and eaten.”
“The sea is wonderful,” nodded Pinocchio, drowsily, “but don’t you
think that we might take some sleep? I am very tired.”
“Very well,” said Marsovino.
Pinocchio threw himself on the sand, and in a few minutes both
friends were asleep.

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