Knitting Technology

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 Machine Knitting
► Knitted structures are
progressively built-up from row
after row of intermeshed
loops.

► The newly-fed yarn is

converted into a new loop in
each needle hook.

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 Machine Knitting
► The needle then draws the
new loop head first through
the old (fabric) loop, which it
has retained from the
previous knitting cycle.

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 Machine Knitting
► The needles, at the same
time, release, (cast-off or
knock-over) the old loops so
that they hang suspended by
their heads from the feet of
the new loops whose heads
are still held in the hooks of
the needles.
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 Machine Knitting
► A cohesive knitted loop
structure is thus produced
by a combination of the
intermeshed needle loops
and yarn that passes from
needle loop to needle loop.

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 Loop Structure
► The knitted loop structure
may not always be noticeable
because of the effect of
structural fineness, fabric
distortion, additional pattern
threads or the masking effect
of finishing processes.

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 Loop Structure
► Knitted loops are arranged
in rows, roughly equivalent to
the weft and warp of woven
structures. These are termed
‘courses’ and ‘wales’
respectively.

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 Courses
► Courses are ROWS of loops across the width of
fabrics, it is measured in units of (Courses / cm )

►The number courses

determine the LENGTH of
fabric.

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 Wales
► Wales are COLUMNS of loops across the length of
the fabrics, it is measured in units of (Wales / cm )

►The number of wales

determine the WIDTH of
fabric.

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 Stitch Density
► Stitch density refers to the total number of loops in a
measured area of fabric and not to the length of yarn in
a loop (stitch length).

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 Stitch Density
► Stitch Density is the product of the courses and
wales per unit length and is measured in units per
square per centimeter.

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 Loop Length
► Loop length, measured in millimeters, is the length
of yarn in one knitted loop.

► It is one of the most important factors controlling

the properties of knitted fabrics.

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 Loop Length
► Generally, the larger the stitch length, the more
open and lighter the fabric.

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 Loop Length
► Loop length will affect the following parameters :

■ Tightness factor;

■ Fabric weight;

■ Fabric width;

■ Dimensional stability

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Loop Length
Weight,
Tightness,
Stitch Density

Loop Length

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 Technically Upright
► A knitted fabric is technically
upright when its courses run
horizontally and its wales run
vertically, with the heads of the
needle loops facing towards the
top of the fabric and the course
knitted first situated at the
bottom of the fabric.
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 Design Appearance
Requirements
► The terms technical face, technical back, and upright
are purely technically descriptive terms.

► They do not necessarily indicate the orientation of

the fabric from the designer’s viewpoint.

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 Design Appearance
Requirements
For example:

► Socks and ladies hosiery are

usually worn upside-down
compared to their sequence of
production.

► The technical back of structures

is often used for plush and pile
effects.
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 Design Appearance
Requirements
For example:

► Curtains may be hung

sideways compared to the
wales.

► Diagonal stripes may be

achieved for dress-wear by
cutting the fabric at an angle.
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