subject: Airfix’s new 1/72 Spitfire

Mk.Vc Starter Set.

This type of product provides
the plastic parts, a pointed paint
brush, tube of Poly Cement and
several pots of Humbrol acrylic
paint, while a small decal sheet
completes the contents. Airfix
also produces Gift Sets, which
are similar in format but have a
more complex kit with additional
brushes and paints. Given the
focus on this being a ‘first kit’
build, the decision was taken to
work with just what’s in the box,
despite this limiting what can
be painted as an initial project,
although colours can be mixed
to create additional shades.

This article will show how to

get the best results from the kit
contents when assembling Airfix’s
Spitfire Mk.Vc Starter Set

Typical contents of an Airfix Starter

Set, comprising several styrene
runners, a tube of Poly Cement, pots
of acrylic paint, a brush and a small
decal sheet – similar products from
other manufacturers may differ, but
will form a similar make-up

FROM THE
For many
modellers, their
first taste of the

BEGINNING
hobby comes
from a starter or
gift set, making
this the ideal
place to kick off
this new series
of Back-to-
Basics articles

P
revious series of Back
to Basics features have
focused on specific
techniques in each
article but, in this new series,
we will be taking a different
perspective, using builds over
several issues to demonstrate
various skills.
This latest series aims to
provide an aide-mémoir for
those either starting out or
returning to the hobby, and
we’ll begin with a likely ‘first kit’

38 Airfix Model World KeyModelWorld.com

 BACK TO BASICS | Part 1 – Getting Started

It’s recommended that cutters are used to remove parts from the runner, but as
with many aspects of the hobby, a little care at this stage goes a long way – if the
concave side of the cutters is used, there is a substantial residual ‘stub’ that will
need further trimming, but if the flat side is used, the cut is much closer to the
part and the resulting tidying up is simplified greatly

Starter Set instructions are laid out as per any other Airfix kit, but each stage
has a bonus inset, showing where the required parts are located (by shading in a
dark grey) on a runner. As the build progresses, these items are shown as being
removed. There’s also a handy ‘tip sheet’ – giving similar advice to that in this
series – with hints on preparation, tools required and assembly

Polystyrene cement, regardless of
its brand name, is a common inclusion
in beginner sets and used to be a
modellers’ bane. Modern formulations
have low viscosity (so it flows better)
and no longer ‘string’ between parts
That said, there are a few tips to
getting the best results: when the cap
is removed, there is often a bubble of
glue formed as pressure is released –
the first step is to wipe this off, using
kitchen towel
The next step is to remove any
remaining stubs or burrs from the
runner attachment and sanding sticks
are ideal for this – gentle pressure is
advised as this minimises damage to
the surrounding plastic
After sanding, the surface should
be smooth – on some kits, there are
‘under-stubs’, where the attachment
point is on the mating surface, rather
than the exterior, and all of this must
be removed

A piece of carboard comes in handy when using polystyrene cement. First, it It’s also great for when smaller parts are being assembled, as a blob of glue
enables the modeller to practise applying the glue and gain an appreciation of can be placed on the cardboard and then a cocktail stick used to apply it to
how much pressure it takes to get the cement flowing (it’s less than you might the pieces. Note, neither cardboard nor the wooden stick will react with the
expect) and hopefully avoid those dreaded ‘splurges’ of glue on a kit adhesive, making these materials ideal

Once you’re happy with using the tube, it’s time to commit glue to the model.
Poly Cement acts by melting the contact surfaces, so apply lightly to the mating
edges (any runs should be removed immediately with a kitchen towel). The
interior was painted as an experiment, to see if my planned painting methods
worked properly – it’s not mentioned in the instructions

MORE TO SEE ONLINE

While this feature shows a full build sequence (with painting to follow next
month), future instalments will ‘jump’ into a project at various stages, as there
isn’t enough space in an issue to show everything – either due to the subject’s
complexity or the need to use multiple kits. On these occasions, there will be
a ‘see more online’ sticker, which will point the way to a full build on the Key
Model World website (www.keymodelworld.com).

KeyModelWorld.com Airfix Model World 39

 After the contact surfaces are treated, press the parts together firmly – don’t As an alternative to using your hands to hold everything (especially if the glue
worry if there’s an ‘ooze’ of glue and styrene, the best approach is to let the glue takes time to dry), masking tape is great for keeping parts together, freeing the
dry thoroughly and then sand the seam later modeller for other areas of construction

Seams are then sanded – if there’s a gap, a common sight is sanding residue Wings can pose several challenges when assembling. The front join is similar
(indicated by the arrow), once this is removed, the blemish can be treated with a to the fuselage, but at the tip and back there’s an inset for the lower part to
further light application of glue or a filler (addressed later in this series) attach – apply the glue on the recessed side then press together as usual, but…

…instead of just using tape, it’s advised to use pegs

– wooden versions are recommended, as they won’t
be glued to the wing parts as would plastic pegs –
everything is then set aside to dry

The assembled model

on its two-piece ‘shadow’
Recessed joins, as on the horizontal stabilisers, stand prior to painting.
can result in glue oozing out onto the surfaces. The The cockpit canopy and
solution is to use a cotton bud to remove any excess propeller have both been
immediately, to prevent it reacting with the plastic attached temporarily

40 Airfix Model World KeyModelWorld.com

 BACK TO BASICS | Part 1 – Getting Started

This wing was left

overnight, after which
any glue residue
was sanded and the
surface checked for any
remaining gaps. Fittings
such as oil coolers and
radiators were then
attached as per the
horizontal stabilisers

The wing and

fuselage are joined
before being held
with tape. Note,
one of the common
‘gotchas’ with Spitfire
kits involves the rear
wing/fuselage seam
– if not held properly,
it will result in a step
between the parts

Similarly, the wing roots are often a cause for concern – if there had been problems on this build, the
clamp shown (available cheaply at most hobby stores) would have been used to add greater pressure, which
would have spread the lower fuselage edges until they closed any gaps with the wing

NEXT
ISSUE
Part two – Painting
and Finishing
In the October
issue of AMW,
we will look at
how to get the
best results when
brush-painting,
again using just
the contents of the
Starter Set, where
possible, while also
addressing the use
of varnishes to aid
decal application.

KeyModelWorld.com