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Young Ocean wavesEncyclopediaofMaritimeandOffshoreEngineering-BasicHydrodynamicsandWaveDynamics
Young Ocean wavesEncyclopediaofMaritimeandOffshoreEngineering-BasicHydrodynamicsandWaveDynamics
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Table 1. Representative wave heights calculated from the From linear wave theory, the average energy of the wave
Rayleigh distribution. profile can be represented as
N H1/N /𝜎 H1∕N ∕H H1/N /Hrms Comments
𝜌w g ∑ 2
N
100 6.67 2.66 2.36 — E= H (6)
50 6.24 2.49 2.21 — 8 i=1 i
20 5.62 2.24 1.99 —
10 5.09 2.03 1.80 Highest 1/10 wave or
1 ∑ 2
N
5 4.50 1.80 1.59 — E
3 4.00 1.60 1.42 Significant wave = a = 𝜎2 (7)
2 3.55 1.42 1.26 — 𝜌w g 2N i=1 i
1 2.51 1.00 0.87 Mean wave
where 𝜌w is the density of water and 𝜎 2 the variance of the
Created by the author using data from Goda (1985) and Young (1999).
record.
Rather than wishing to know the average height of all Therefore, the amplitude components, a2i , are related to the
waves greater than a particular value, it is more common energy of the record, the distribution of which as a function
to consider the average height of the highest 1/N waves. of frequency could be represented by plotting a2i versus
This can be calculated from the Rayleigh distribution by frequency. This amplitude spectrum is discrete, represented
determining the wave height, which has a probability of only at the frequencies 𝜔i of the summation 5. In the limit as
exceedance given by 1/N. A full analysis is given by Goda N → ∞, the amplitude spectrum can be transformed into the
(1985). Typical results for various values of N appear in continuous spectrum, F(f), where
Table 1 (Young, 1999).
a2i
The significant wave height, Hs , is defined in Table 1 as F(f )Δf = (8)
H1/3 , the average of the highest 1/3 of the waves. The term 2
significant wave height is historical as this value appeared The spectrum, F(f), is called the frequency or omnidirec-
to correlate well with visual estimates of wave height tional, as no direction is associated with the spectrum or
from experienced observers. The significant wave height is variance (as the area under the spectrum is the variance 𝜎 2
commonly used in many engineering design considerations the record) spectrum.
as a representative wave to approximate the otherwise
random wave field. This approach then represents the wave ∞
Encyclopedia of Maritime and Offshore Engineering, online © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
This article is © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
DOI: 10.1002/9781118476406.emoe078
Also published in the Encyclopedia of Maritime and Offshore Engineering (print edition) ISBN: 978-1-118-47635-2
Regular, Irregular Waves and the Wave Spectrum 3
clear peak and a high-frequency face that decays as f− n . 1976; Mitsuyasu et al., 1980) did not explicitly develop a
This reproducible form is believed to be a result of the self-consistent set of relationships. This was addressed by
shape-stabilizing effects of nonlinear interactions within Lewis and Allos (1990) who reanalyzed the available data
the spectrum (Young and Van Vledder, 1993). On the basis sets to develop a self-consistent set of relationships.
of dimensional arguments, two different forms for the
high-frequency tail of the spectrum have been proposed: f− 5 𝜀 = 7.13 × 10−5 𝜈 −3.03 (13)
(Phillips, 1958) and f− 4 (Toba, 1973).
5 f 2 2
F(f ) = 𝛼g2 (2π)−4 f −5 exp − 𝛾
2𝜎c fp
(11)
4 fp 𝜎a = 0.054𝜈 −0.32 (17)
⏟⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏟⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏞⏟
Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum
Encyclopedia of Maritime and Offshore Engineering, online © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
This article is © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
DOI: 10.1002/9781118476406.emoe078
Also published in the Encyclopedia of Maritime and Offshore Engineering (print edition) ISBN: 978-1-118-47635-2
4 General
10−1
JONSWAP
Liu (1971)
10−2
Mitsuyasu (1968)
Sutherland (1967)
Toba (1971)
10−3 −1
10 100 101
ν = fp U10 /g
Figure 1. JONSWAP data showing the relationship between 𝛼 and nondimensional frequency, 𝜈. Also shown is the power law relationship
15 of Lewis and Allos (1990). (Created by the author using data from Hasselmann et al. (1973) and Lewis and Allos (1990).)
101
γ
100 −1
10 100
ν = fp U10 /g
Figure 2. JONSWAP data showing the relationship between 𝛾 and nondimensional frequency, 𝜈. Also shown is the power law relationship
16 of Lewis and Allos (1990). (Created by the author using data from Hasselmann et al. (1973) and Lewis and Allos (1990).)
Note that the notations 𝛽 and 𝛾 d have been used to The data set of Donelan, Hamilton, and Hui (1985) spans a
distinguish these parameters from their JONSWAP counter- wide range of 𝜈 and shows consistent trends in all spectral
parts, 𝛼 and 𝛾. At first appearances, the differences between parameters with little scatter. As examples, the Donelan,
Equations 11 and 19 may appear insignificant for engineering Hamilton, and Hui (1985) data for 𝛽 and 𝛾 are shown in
applications as it is only the high-frequency portion of the Figures 6 and 7, respectively.
spectrum that is altered. However, for applications such as Donelan, Hamilton, and Hui (1985) represented the param-
floating structures, this can be important. eters as
Encyclopedia of Maritime and Offshore Engineering, online © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
This article is © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
DOI: 10.1002/9781118476406.emoe078
Also published in the Encyclopedia of Maritime and Offshore Engineering (print edition) ISBN: 978-1-118-47635-2
Regular, Irregular Waves and the Wave Spectrum 5
10−1
σa
Equations 20–23 are shown in Figure 8. The differences where sp is the value of s at the frequency of the spectral peak
between this formulation and those based on Equation 11 frequency, fp , given by
are now clear. As a result of forcing the high-frequency ( )−2.5
components to conform to an f− 5 form, the resulting 𝛼 U10
sp = 11.5 (28)
is significantly greater than 𝛽. The Donelan, Hamilton, Cp
and Hui (1985) values for 𝜎 c are similar to JONSWAP
for larger values of 𝜈. As the spectrum approaches the Cp = g/𝜔p is the deep-water phase speed of components
Pierson–Moskowitz limit, however, 𝜎 c increases very at the spectral peak and U10 the wind speed at a reference
rapidly. This results in a rapid broadening in the spectral height of 10 m.
shape as full development is reached. As a result of the Hasselmann, Dunckel, and Ewing (1980) considered
relatively low values of 𝛽, the resulting values of 𝛾 d are pitch/roll buoy data, also representing their data in the form
Encyclopedia of Maritime and Offshore Engineering, online © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
This article is © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
DOI: 10.1002/9781118476406.emoe078
Also published in the Encyclopedia of Maritime and Offshore Engineering (print edition) ISBN: 978-1-118-47635-2
6 General
10−2
JONSWAP
Burling (1959)
Mitsuyasu (1968)
JONSWAP
10−5
10−6
10−7
10−8 −2
10 100 102 104 106
χ= gx/U 210
Figure 4. A composite of data from a variety of studies showing the development of the nondimensional energy, 𝜀, as a function of
nondimensional fetch, 𝜒. The original JONSWAP study used the data marked, JONSWAP, together with that of Burling (1959) and
Mitsuyasu (1968). Also shown are a number of growth curves obtained from the various data sets (Young, 1999). (Created by the author
using data from Hasselmann et al. (1973), Burling (1959), Mitsuyasu (1968), and Lewis and Allos (1990).)
of Equation 26, but with a different parameterization for s represented by Equation 26 did not adequately represent their
data and adopted the alternative form
⎧ ( )4.06
f
⎪6.97 fp for f < 1.05fp
s=⎨ ( )𝜇 (29) D(f , 𝜃) = 0.5𝛽 sech2 𝛽[𝜃 − 𝜃m (f )] (31)
f
⎪9.77 f for f ≥ 1.05fp
⎩ p
They found that 𝛽 varied as a function of nondimen-
where 𝜇 has a weak dependence on wave age sional frequency, f/fp . Their data, however, extended only
to f/fp = 1.6, and beyond this point they assumed that 𝛽
( )
U10 was constant. Banner (1990) reviewed this conclusion in
𝜇 = −2.33 − 1.45 − 1.17 (30)
Cp the context of high-frequency stereo-photography data and
concluded that the assumption that 𝛽 = constant for f/fp > 1.6
On the basis of the data from an array of 14 wave gauges, was unreasonable. He proposed a formulation for 𝛽 beyond
Donelan, Hamilton, and Hui (1985) found that the form 1.6fp , which is combined with the Donelan, Hamilton, and
Encyclopedia of Maritime and Offshore Engineering, online © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
This article is © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
DOI: 10.1002/9781118476406.emoe078
Also published in the Encyclopedia of Maritime and Offshore Engineering (print edition) ISBN: 978-1-118-47635-2
Regular, Irregular Waves and the Wave Spectrum 7
101 JONSWAP
JONSWAP
Burling (1959)
ν = fpU10 /g
Liu (1971)
Pierson (1960)
Volkov (1968)
Mitsuyasu (1968)
10−1
10−4 10−2 100 102 104 106
χ= g x/U 210
Figure 5. A composite of data from a variety of studies showing the development of the nondimensional peak frequency, 𝜈, as a function
of nondimensional fetch, 𝜒. The original JONSWAP study used the data marked, JONSWAP, together with that of Burling (1959) and
Mitsuyasu (1968). Also shown are a number of growth curves obtained from the various data sets (Young, 1999). (Created by the author
using data from Hasselmann et al. (1973), Burling (1959), Mitsuyasu (1968), and Lewis and Allos (1990).)
Field
Laboratory
10−1
β
10−2
10−3
10−1 100 101
ν = fp U10 /g
Figure 6. The data of Donelan, Hamilton, and Hui (1985) showing the dependence of 𝛽 on 𝜈. The solid line is Equation 21. (Created by
the author using data from Donelan (1985).)
Encyclopedia of Maritime and Offshore Engineering, online © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
This article is © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
DOI: 10.1002/9781118476406.emoe078
Also published in the Encyclopedia of Maritime and Offshore Engineering (print edition) ISBN: 978-1-118-47635-2
8 General
101
γd
Field
Laboratory
100
10−1 100 101
ν = fp U10 /g
Figure 7. The data of Donelan, Hamilton, and Hui (1985) showing the dependence of 𝛾 d on 𝜈. The solid line is Equation 22. (Created by
the author using data from Donelan (1985).)
10−2 10−1
10−4 10−2
β
ε
10−6 10−3
10−1 100 101 10−1 100 101
101 100
10−1
γd
100 10−2
10−1 100 101 10−1 100 101
ν ν
Figure 8. The dependence of the parameters for the Donelan, Hamilton, and Hui (1985) spectral representation, Equation 19. The
relationships shown are defined by Equations 20–23. (Created by the author using data from Donelan (1985).)
Hui (1985) parameterizations for f < 1.6fp as Using a dataset covering a broader parameter range than
these well-known formulations, Babanin and Soloview
⎧ ( )1.3 (1998) proposed an alternative formulation in terms of the
f
⎪2.61 f for 0.56 < f ∕fp < 0.95
⎪ ( p )−1.3 parameter A, the inverse of integral 25.
𝛽 = ⎨2.28 f for 0.95 < f ∕fp < 1.6
⎪ fp
⎪10{−0.4+0.84 exp[−0.57 ln((f ∕fp )2 )]} ( ) ( )
f ∕fp > 1.6 U10 −0.50 f −0.95
⎩ A = 1.12 + (2π)−1 for f ≥ 0.95fp
(32) Cp fp
Encyclopedia of Maritime and Offshore Engineering, online © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
This article is © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
DOI: 10.1002/9781118476406.emoe078
Also published in the Encyclopedia of Maritime and Offshore Engineering (print edition) ISBN: 978-1-118-47635-2
Regular, Irregular Waves and the Wave Spectrum 9
Encyclopedia of Maritime and Offshore Engineering, online © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
This article is © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
DOI: 10.1002/9781118476406.emoe078
Also published in the Encyclopedia of Maritime and Offshore Engineering (print edition) ISBN: 978-1-118-47635-2
10 General
Longuet-Higgins, M.S. (1952) On the statistical distributions of sea Pierson, W.J. and Moskowitz, L. (1964) A proposed spectral form for
waves. Journal of Marine Research, 11 (3), 245–265. fully developed wind seas based on the similarity theory of S.A.
Longuet-Higgins, M.S., Cartwright, D.E., and Smith, N.D. (1963) Kitaigorodskii. Journal of Geophysical Research, 69, 5181–5190.
Observations of the Directional Spectrum of Sea Waves Using the Pierson, W.J. and Stacey, R.A. (1973) On the elevation, slope and
Motions of a Floating Buoy, in Ocean Wave Spectra, Prentice Hall, curvature of a wind roughened sea, NASA Report CR-2247, 126pp.
Englewood Cliffs, NJ, pp. 111–136. Rice, S.O. (1954) Mathematical Analysis of Random Noise, Selected
Mitsuyasu, H. (1968) On the growth of the spectrum of Paper on Noise and Stochastic Processes, Dover Publications, Inc.,
wind-generated waves. Reports of Research Institute for Applied pp. 133–294.
Mechanics, Kyushu University, 16, 1–459. Sutherland, A.J. (1967) Growth of spectral components in a
Mitsuyasu, H., Tasai, F., Suhara, T., Mizuno, S., Onkusu, M., Honda, wind-generated wave train. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 33, 545.
T., and Rukiiski, K. (1975) Observations of the directional spec- Toba, Y. (1971) Local balance in the air-sea boundary process.
trum of ocean waves using a cloverleaf buoy. Journal of Physical Journal of Oceanographical Society of Japan, 29, 209–220.
Oceanography, 5, 751–761.
Toba, Y. (1973) Local balance in the air-sea boundary process.
Mitsuyasu, H., Tasai, F., Suhara, T., Mizuno, S., Onkusu, M., Honda, Journal of the Oceanographic Society of Japan, 29, 209–220.
T., and Rukiiski, K. (1980) Observations of the power spectrum of
Volkov, Y.A. (1968) Analysis of the spectra of sea excitation.
waves using a cloverleaf buoy. Journal of Physical Oceanography,
Izvestiya AN SSSR, Fizika Atkosfery i Okeana, IV, 9.
10, 286–296.
Young, I.R. (1999) Wind Generated Ocean Waves, Elsevier, pp.
Phillips, O.M. (1958) The equilibrium range in the spectrum of
1–268.
wind-generated waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 4, 426–434.
Young, I.R. and van Vledder, G.P. (1993) The central role of nonlinear
Phillips, O.M. (1985) Spectral and statistical properties of the equi-
interactions in wind-vave evolution. Philosophical Transactions of
librium range in wind-generated gravity waves. Journal of Fluid
the Royal Society of London, A, 342, 505–524.
Mechanics, 156, 505–531.
Zakharov, V.E. and Filonenko, N.N. (1966) The energy spectrum for
Pierson, W.J. (ed.) (1960) The directional spectrum of a
stochastic oscillation of a fluid’s surface. Doklady Academii Nauk
wind-generated sea as determined from data obtained by the
SSSR (Transactions of USSR Academy of Sciences—English
Stereo Wave Observation Project, New York Univeristy College
Translation), 170, 1992–1995.
of Engineering, Met. Pap. 2, 6.
Encyclopedia of Maritime and Offshore Engineering, online © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
This article is © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
DOI: 10.1002/9781118476406.emoe078
Also published in the Encyclopedia of Maritime and Offshore Engineering (print edition) ISBN: 978-1-118-47635-2