BUYING PRINCIPLES 1

WEEK 3
Re-cap: Week 3
 Importance of Consumer Research

◼ Buyers must understand

Consumer Behavior & Consumer
Buying patterns
◼ In order to make better
purchasing decisions and plan
successful retailing strategie
◼ As a part of consumer centric
business practice its important to
know the end consumer for
which the buyer sources the
merchandise .

Consumer Behaviour Influences

Role Descriptio

Initiator The person who determines that

some need or want is to be me
Influencer The person or persons who
intentionally or unintentionally
influence the decision to buy or
endorse the view of the initiator
Buyer The person who actually makes a
purchase
User The person or persons who actually
use or consume the product.


.

Buyer Decision Making Process
How does consumers make buying decisions?
There are 5 stages:

1. Recognition
2. Information search*
3. Evaluation of alternatives*
4. Purchase decision
5. Post purchase behaviour
* Eliminate these steps when it’s a routine/repeat
purchase.
Consumer purchases are influenced strongly by cultural,
social, personal and psychological characteristics.
Value Orientation –
These consumers look for value in each of their purchases
These values can vary from lower price, availability of personal
shopper,

Economic Consumer - sensitive to price, and always

key factor when making buying decisions
Consumer who prefer Unique, local, customized,
personal or independent Shopping environments or
brands
Ethical Consumer - Prefer fair trade products, natural
fibres etc or companies with corporate social
responsibility.
Consumer types by Buying Pattern

Loyal custome
◼Less in numbers but promote more sales and profit.
◼Loyal customers return over tim
◼Crucial to invest time, interact regularl
◼Loyal customers want individual attention
r

Consumer types by Buying Pattern

Discount custome

◼Frequent visitors but they only purchase when

offered with discounts on regular product
◼Focus on these types of customers may be
important for profit (depends on the business
model)
r

Consumer types by Buying Pattern

Impulsive custome

◼ Customers are difficult to convinc

◼ They do not have any specific item in mind when shoppin
◼ They buy what they find & like at that point of time.
◼ If impulsive customers are considered could enhance sales
E.g. Supermarkets place impulse purchases tills & end of isles
r

Consumer types by Buying Pattern

Need based custome

◼ Need based - product specific and only tend to buy items
which have a specific need for the
◼ Difficult to satisfy the
◼ Customers should be handled positively by showing reasons to
switch brands or initiating them to bu
◼ These customers could possibly be lost if not tackled efficiently
with positive interaction (Proactive knowledgably sales staff)
m

Consumer types by Buying Pattern

Wandering custome
◼ These are the least profitable customers as they are not sure
what to buy.
◼ These customers are normally new in industry
◼ To grab such customers they should be properly informed
about the various positive features of the products.

Week 4
Objectives
Range Planning
Seasonal Planning
Visual Appeal & Buying
Concept Development:

◼Haute Coutur
◼Designe
◼Bridg
◼High Street
Mass
◼Value (budget Market

NB Ready-to-wear (France known as Prêt-à-

Porter成⾐时装) any garment that you can pick up &
buy rather than have custom made
e

四⼤时装周基本上揭示和决定了当年及次年的世界服装流⾏趋势。因为对于⼤多
数的时装公司，⾄少要花费半年到8个⽉的时间才能把设计变成成品，所以四⼤
时装周提前约6个多⽉进⾏次年的时装发布。
时尚编辑们发挥了极⼤的作⽤，在每场秀中，他们的主要任务是寻找各场秀的交
叉点，⽽这些交叉点基本上是明年的流⾏重点。这样，就得出了每年的流⾏趋
势。另外，各⼤品牌通常在发布秀后，还会邀请⼤牌的时尚记者到品牌总部样品
间零距离接触⾛秀的服饰，并采访设计师。很多记者就曾深⼊到⽶兰、巴黎
Chanel、Dior、Gucci等⼀线⼤牌的样品间，直接采访品牌设计师等。四⼤时装周
都各有侧重，纽约的⾃然、伦敦的前卫、巴黎的奢华和⽶兰的新奇已成为这四个
时装中⼼各⾃的标志。
CHENPENG AW20《“形”
⽽上》的灵感来⾃于超现
实主义艺术家Louise
Bourgeois的装置艺术。
Louise Bourgeois的作品
往往将情绪，状态，思考
以身体的形式表达，传递
出不同类型的⼼理状态。

2018 年底集团推出设计师品牌集合店“LA SU MIN SO LA”品牌。

Chinese fashion brands rediscovering their enthusiasm for the
big four fashion weeks in the post-epidemic era? 后疫情时代，中国
时尚品牌是否正在重拾对国际四⼤时装周的热情？
Pascal Morand 强调，时尚⾏业中的⼀些关键元素是⽆法以
数字化形式取代的，他说：“那些⽆法数字化的东⻄会继续
以实体形式存在。我们都厌倦了Zoom会议，屏幕上的视觉
感受永远不会和现实⼀样，在时尚界尤其如此，因为这个
⾏业需要动态、⾯料、流动性和精确性。”
如果每个⼈都退出了这个系统，那么⼤家都输了。在⽬前的
情况下，有保障措施，有可信度是件好事。官⽅⽇程⼀直是
⺠主化的。每个品牌都享有平等的地位，包括主要品牌和最
近新加⼊的品牌，尽管它们在收⼊和声誉⽅⾯存在巨⼤差
https://new.qq.com/rain/a/20210118A0D6V500
Product Categories - Womenswear

▪ Sportswear / Activewear
▪ Swimwear
▪ Intimates
▪ Lingerie
▪ Maternity
▪ Uniforms
▪ Bridal

▪ Workwear* / Uniforms “微距电商时代已来，⼀⼩时达将不仅仅是需求，⽽是

▪ Formal Wear / Tailoring / Suiting 习惯。” 95 后⽤户更愿意为速度买单等多重因素驱动
▪ Soft Tailoring 下，即时零售平台正成为服饰零售⾏业的新趋势。

▪ Occasionwear 埃森哲发布的《聚焦中国 95 后消费群体》报告显示，

▪ Outerwear 在购物体验上，95 后更愿意为速度买单，有过半的
▪ Accessories 95 后⽤户希望能当天到货，有 7% 的 95 后⽤户希望
能在两⼩时内收到货。
▪ Footwear
Categories: Childrenswear
Kids clothes are categorized by Age

◼ Newborn= 0 months
➢ 0-3 months
➢ 3-6 months
➢ 6-9 months
➢ 9-12 months
➢ 12-18 months
➢ 18-24 months

Also specified if Boys /

Girls
Planning
◼ No matter which Product Categories you buy for Company
◼ Buyers need to spend time Planning the Rang
不管你采买的是哪⼀类产品，买家需要花时间规划范围

1. Merchandise & Budget Planning

2. Purchasing (Merchandise Selecting Negotiating with Vendors )
3. Assorting / Distributing
4. Controlling (Training Staff,Vendors)
5. Communicating and marketing

Buying Process / Buying Cycle : Definition

Consumer
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Merchandise Plan
◼ Merchandise Plan is a written document planning the Merchandise Mix 商品
计划是计划商品组合的书⾯⽂件
◼ Not only includes styles, colours, fabrics but distribution dates & logistical
planning - delivery, stock quantities不仅包括款式，颜⾊，⾯料，配送⽇期和物流计划-
交货，库存数量
Merchandise Plan: Other Terms
Other Interchangeable Terms 其他可互换的条款

i. Merchandise Mix (Assortment of Products, Width & Depth)

商品组合(产品种类、宽度和深度)
ii. Range Plan / Range Planning (Details of each Product
Category)范围计划/范围计划(每个产品类别的详细信息)
iii. Line Planning (Similar to Range Plan but may have further
details of each Product Design)线路规划(类似于范围规划，但可能有每个产
品设计的进⼀步细节)
Merchandise Mix
Merchandise Mix = Assortment of Products
Retailer carries either in store or on-line商
品组合=零售商在商店或⽹上销售的产品的分类
Range Planning

◼ Range Planning - the stage when

b u ye r s d e f i n e t h e d e t a i l s a n d
specifications of the range that is to be
offered to the customer产品范围规划-确
定要提供给客户的产品范围的细节和规格的阶
段
Range Plannin
Range Planning considerations
1. Styles - specific garment style / aesthetics / design detail
⻛格-特定的服装⻛格/美学/设计细节
2. Fabrics + Color-ways (for each style
⾯料+颜⾊⽅式(适⽤于每种⻛格)
3. Volume or Quantity - Order quantities per styl
数量或数量-每款订购数量
4. Sizes (for specific geographic location
⼤⼩(特定地理位置)
5. Prices (retail and cost price)价格(零售及成本价)
6. Suppliers供应商
g

Range Plan: Definition

◼ A Range Plan or Line Plan – is the

document that outlines all the
merchandise you plan to buy范围计划或线计
划-是⼀个⽂件，概述了所有你计划购买的商品

NB Term Line Planning - Taken from

manufacturing, when garments start
the assembly line to when the finished
garment is ready⽣产线计划——从⽣产开始，从服
装开始⽣产线到成⾐完成
Range Planning Objective

◼ The main aim of every fashion

buyer is to market merchandise
that best suits the needs of the
consumer for a financial gain.每⼀个
时尚买⼿的主要⽬的是推销最适合消费者需求的商
品，以获得经济利益。
◼ Buyer cannot buy everything
that is available in the market.买家
不可能买到市场上所有的东⻄。
◼ The choice of Products must
present a compelling mix of
products to illustrate the
company’s strategic vision, ranges,
and price points.产品的选择必须呈现令⼈
信服的产品组合，以说明公司的战略愿景、范围和
价格点。
Range Planning Objective

▪ The Buying Strategy should distinguish the

organisation from its competitors and has
to be co-ordinated with the other
department’s merchandise in the store.购买策
略应该将该组织与其竞争对⼿区别开来，并且必须与商店中其他部
⻔的商品相协调。

▪ Once the budget is established, the buyer

plans the Product Assortment – planned
assembly of products with regard to
colours, fabrics, number of styles, size
ranges, and price points on offer to the
customer⼀旦建⽴了预算，买⽅计划产品组合-计划的产品组
装的颜⾊，⾯料，款式的数量，尺⼨范围，并提供给客户的价格点

No display, no sale.
没有陈列就没有销售
Range Planning: Choice & Variety

Objective – clear Assortment of Product

◼ How Retailer will buy different categories of products (Breadth,

Depth)零售商将如何购买不同种类的产品(⼴度，深度)
◼ In order to give consumer Choice / Variety让消费者有更多的选择

http://www.woshipm.com/pd/987682.html
s

Assortment分类
Intro: Assortment Planning
■ Merchandise Mix, Product Assortment –
Interchangeable terms>>>>Different
types of products, offered
◼ The Buyer has to consider right product
for the right customer - right product,
right time, right plac
◼ Objective is to carry appropriate product
in terms of Breadth & Dept
为正确的顾客考虑正确的产品——正确的产品，正确的时间，正确的
地点。⽬标是在⼴度和深度上携带适当的产品
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 Assortment Planning
Questions Buyer has to ask
A. Which Product(s)
B. What Colour(s)
C. What Size(s)
D. What Quantity - How much of it
E. Which Stores
◼ Buyer can offer Variety throug
1. Styl
2. Volume (Range Depth & Width)
3. Siz
4. Pric
5. Distribution
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Style
Garment Styles
◼ The Buyer must consider
➢Product Fashion Lifecycle &
➢Consumers taste or preferenc
i.e. Product Assortment that suits Target
Customers preference & style for each
category of goods买⽅必须考虑/产品时尚⽣命周期&/
消费者的⼝味或偏好/也就是说，每⼀类商品都要符合⽬标顾客
的喜好和⻛格

Pyramid of Product Assortment Planning

◼ Fashion/Trend items - help create an

image and expose the customer to new
trends时尚/趋势项⽬-帮助创建⼀个形象，并向客户展示新的趋
势
◼ Key items - the middle level is made up
of styles that reflect the USP, or the
product functions of the brand
consumer关键项⽬-中间层是由反映USP的⻛格，或产品功能
的品牌
FASHIO
◼
消费者
Basics - lowest and broadest level carry TREN
the least risks基本——最低和最⼴泛的层次⻛险最⼩ ITEMS

Buy Less Volume QTY 数量 (#SKU’s) KEY ITEMS FOR TH

SEASON
Buy Highest Volume QTY (# SKU’s)
BASIC MERCHANDISE
D

 ⼩
Possible Range Plan Strategy : Charles & Keith
Order Qty per style Using Product Life
Cycle每款产品在使⽤周期内订购数量
 Product Life Cycle
▪ Every product has a life cycl
▪ From when introduced to the market to when it goes out of fashio
▪ Some have longer life cycles than others
每个产品都有⼀个⽣命周期/从什么时候引⼊市场到什么时候过时
有些⽣命周期⽐其他⻓ （常⻘树款 经典款）

Classics – accepted longer period of tim

Fashions usually have a slower rise of popularity
reach their peak then decline slowly compared
to fads which are accepted quickly & rejected
by consumers经典-接受更⻓的时间/时装通常有⼀个较慢的上
升，达到顶峰，然后缓慢下降的时尚，被消费者接受和拒绝
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What Should We Buy?

◼ Classic Style? Fashion? Fads?经典的⻛格/时尚/快时尚（当季）/
◼ Depends on Brand Positioning, Price Points取决于品牌定位、价格点
➢ What benefit customers looking for from category? What is your competitive
advantage? Unique offer?客户希望从品类中得到什么好处?你的竞争优势是什么?独特的报价吗?
▪ Classics have Wide Appeal, however some consumers are Fashion Conscious &
Fads may get Press attention经典有⼴泛的吸引⼒，然⽽⼀些消费者对时尚意识可能更有兴趣

你知道超市什么东⻄在疫情流⾏期间很畅销
吗？分享⼈们喜欢买的东⻄
1 ⼝罩，消毒剂
2 绿叶蔬菜
3 ⽅便⾯、⽕腿肠
4 ⽩醋（袋装）
5 各种⾁制品
What Should We Buy?
◼ Buyers are cautious and buy less volume for more ‘Fashion Forward’ items
or more ‘expensive items
◼ Unless ‘Niche brand’ (uber luxury USP
买家很谨慎，对于“时尚前卫”或“昂贵”的商品，他们会减少购买量/ 除⾮“⼩众品牌”
’

 Guidelines (Not a Rule)!

◼ Trend Products (In & Out of Fashion) >>>More Risky style purchase>>Lower
price>>>Reduce customers risk 潮流产品-⻛格⻛险-低价格
◼ Luxury Items (Higher Costs) >>>>More Risky purchase in terms of Monetary
Risk>>>>Require Product with longer Life Cycle>>> Classic Product 奢侈产品-货币⻛
险-⻓⽣命周期

https://www.douban.com/note/572675345/
Product Ratios
◼ Each Product Category there are industry standard
‘Buying Ratios’
◼ Usually buy more tops than bottoms (because they
sell better)
◼ Ratios 3 to 1 or 4 to 1
◼ Jewellery buy more earrings than necklaces
◼ Ratios developed based on Sales history
Volume – How much should we buy?
Range Depth & Width
◼ Consider Range Depth & Width to offer variety to the customer
◼ Whilst maintaining profit for the compan
◼ Objective is highest profit with the lowest volume of goods (stock = risk
◼ Retailing there is no guarantee it will sell, natural disasters, economic
downturn etc 考虑范围的深度和宽度，为客户提供多样化/ 同时为公司维持利润/⽬标是以最低的货物量获
得最⾼的利润(库存=⻛险)/ 零售没有保证⼀定能卖出去，⾃然灾害，经济衰退等等

◼ Width – To offer variety with

the number or types or classes
of products carried
◼ Depth - Assortment of product
line is how many different styles Heytea
and or brands retailer carries Width or Depth
per type of product

Range Width
◼ Width – In each collection or brand’s collection you have to decide how many
styles, shapes you will offer
◼ This depends on Prices points & Product Category
◼ More styles offered, more choice & variety consumer has
◼ Must keep costs to a minimum so brands also have to limit product categories宽度-
在每个系列或品牌的系列，你必须决定你将提供多少⻛格，形状/这取决于价格点和产品类别/更多的款式提供，更
多的选择和品种的消费者/必须将成本降⾄最低，所以品牌也必须限制产品类别
Range Depth
◼ Depth – Each style may have different
➢ Fabric
➢ Print
➢ Colourwa
◼ Too much variation can confuse the customer
◼ & not tell a clear story (colours, trends)

Calculating: Assortment Volume

■ Assortment volum
SKU > Stock keeping Uni
A product has several assortment
factors : Style, Size, Colou

Example: When a designer

produces a single garment, made in
7 sizes and 3 colors. Resulting into
21 SKU’s.设计师⽣产了⼀件服装，有7个尺⼨、3
种颜⾊。结果是21个SKU。
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 SKU: Objective
◼ Objective is to keep check on # of SKUs you hold
◼ Aim is to gain highest Profit with lowest SKU
◼ Retailers & therefore the Buyer wants to sell as much at full price than left with
stock, or items only being sold during Promotion period
⽬标是不断检查你持有的库存单位编号/ ⽬标是以最低的库存单位获得最⾼的利润/ 零售商&因此，希望以全价出售⽐剩余库存，或
只在促销期间出售的项⽬

SKU=Stock Keeping Unit(库存量单位)。它是⼀种库存进

出计量的单位，⽐如：件、盒。现在SKU已经被引申为产
品统⼀编号的简称，每种产品都有唯⼀的SKU号。

SKU VS
SPU =？
SPU Standard Product Unit （标准产品单位）
例如：iphone4就是⼀个SPU，与商家，与颜⾊、款式、
套餐都⽆关。
Price
Range Planning: Pric
Pric
◼ Set Pricing Strategy competitors – Status Quo, Competitive, Premium et
◼ Price range / price points – Compare Entry Price Point , Average Prices &
Price Ceiling (max price
制定竞争对⼿的定价策略——现状、竞争对⼿、溢价等/ 价格范围/价格点-⽐较⼊⻔价格点、平均价格
和价格上限(最⾼价格)
e

Price Ranges

◼ Entry Prince Point

◼ Average Pric
◼ Price Ceiling
e

Range Planning:
Price
Customer Expectations : Higher the price >
Higher the expected quality客户期望:⾼价格-⾼预期质量

Price Architecture
◼ Pricing Strategy or Price Architecture – is having a series of Prices that attract a
Range of Customers
◼ The Lower the Price the wider the target customer
◼ Lower priced items (in general) are bought in higher quantities than higher priced
quantities
定价策略或价格架构-⼀系列的价格来吸引⼀系列的客户/ 价格越低，⽬标客户范围就越⼤/ 低价格的物品(通常)⽐⾼价格的物品购买
的数量要多

Special Party dress with elaaborate details may

only come in 1 or 2 colours

d in 4 colours but
a t $ 5 0 o ffere
Basic Camisole antities
t in h igh e r q u
bough
Size
Siz
● Size & Fit is a key factor to affect customer decision making. If consumer
cannot find size they might go to competitor尺⼨与契合度是影响客户决策的关键因素。如
果消费者找不到合适的尺码，他们可能会去找竞争对⼿
● Buyer has to analyse past sales to decide on popular sizes, feedback from
the Sales Floor.买家必须分析过去的销售情况来决定流⾏的尺⼨，销售部⻔的反馈。
● Caution must be exercised by International Retailers.国际零售商必须谨慎⾏事。
● Size conversion charts across Geographical Area sutilised. 跨地理区域的尺⼨转换
e

Shoes
Range Planning: Siz
◼ Most brands assume that they would sell fewer small and larger Size

◼ But sell more of the middle range sizes

Example

XXS XS S M L XL XXL
Asia 1 3 3 3 2 1 0
Europe 0 1 2 3 3 3 1

l Most ly Middle
l
Why Do We Se
Populations stats generally are bell shaped –
most people are average. But regional /
geographic differences
.

 Why Do We Sell Mostly Middle

Medium
Most People
are Average
Size

XXXS XXS S M L XL XXL

Populations stats generally are bell shaped – most

people are average. But regional / geographic
differences
 Asia: Sizes
◼ Asian – Curve is Skewed towards
Smal
◼ XXXS – Size Zero
◼ Smaller Shoe Size
◼ Petite (Height)
l

Assortment Distribution
Assortment Distribution
◼ Takes into account where each item is sold.考虑到每件物品的销售地点。
◼ Flagship store and Websites offer entire range & other stores will
only carry a portion of the line.旗舰店和⽹站提供整个系列，⽽其他商店只提供部分产品线。
◼ Retail stores are usually categories into ABC levels or Top Stores
(e.g. Top 10 Stores)零售商店通常分为ABC等级或顶级商店
◼ Categorized by volume or ‘fashion’ innovation level按数量或“时尚”创新⽔平分类
◼ Product will be shipped to them accordingly.产品会相应的发货给他们。
Which type of Store has the most Volume? Variety of Colour,
Size, Styles? Flagship or Branch Store?
Summary
Successful Buye
◼ Has the skills to give a Balanced Product Offe
➢ Decide the number of individual styles or style neede
➢ Balancing old product lines and new styles
➢ Establishing the volume of collections, width and depth of
product lines and criteria for inclusion of new products.

Balancing the offe

◼ Buyer must consider a number of factors

▪ Assortment Variety – Choice, style, colour, price
▪ Assortment Volume – right quantity
▪ Assortment Distribution – right stores

◼ The offer is considered balanced when the

range of merchandise satisfies the
preferences of the target customer
◼ Buy items at a quantity that sells at a fast
enough rate to create profit for the business
(under stocked / overstocked)
◼ Keep SKU’s low as possible
◼ Ultimately objective is Sales!
:

Assortment planning: Other Factors

Other factors affect the decisions what merchandise to select: 影响选择商品的其他因素:

1. Choice of brands + Product Attribute

2. Taste level + Store / Customer Profile
3. Quality
4. Variety of product lines - Breadth and depth of product lines
5. Continuity of product lines – Space dimensions/utilization
6. Timing of products - Seasonal
s

1) Choice of Brand & Product Attribute

◼ All successful brands have USP – these vary from style, colours, fabrics,
silhouette, price points, themes etc 所有成功的品牌都有独特的卖点——不同的款式、颜⾊、⾯
料、轮廓、价格点、主题等等
◼ Retailer has to balance what customer expects from brand whilst
considering overall offer in store零售商必须平衡顾客对品牌的期望，同时考虑店内的整体供应
◼ Buyers must understand which Brands best suited for their store & offer
best items from each brand买家必须了解哪些品牌最适合他们的商店，并提供每个品牌最好的项⽬
Taste level + Store / Customer Profile

◼ Country, region geographical location - climate affects

products demanded国家、地区地理位置-⽓候影响产品需求
◼ Location store, Type – Branch Store vs Flagship , CBD vs
Suburbs店⾯位置、类型——分店与旗舰店、CBD与郊区
◼ Customer Profile, social class, disposable income, ethnicity,
locals vs tourists客户概况，社会阶层，可⽀配收⼊，种族，当地⼈和游客
 Quality
◼ General guideline - Customers will not return
to brands who have products of bad quality
unless they really limited budge
◼ Quality depends on Price supported by the
bran
◼ Some customers can only determine quality
based on price (Depends on Product
Category) e.g. Perfume, Jewellery ◼ Quality subjective – depends on
customers expectations
◼ Strategy is a Tiered Pricing system for
customers who want better quality
(Price Architecture)
◼ Buy less Volume (qty) of expensive
brands & buy more Volume (qty) of
lower price brands
d

Variety & Customer Expectations 品种与客户期望

◼ Variety of Product line based on Category and expectations from the

customer & even USP of Brand基于类别和客户的期望，甚⾄品牌的USP的产品线的多样性
◼ Department Stores – Wide Deep Assortment百货商店-⼴泛的深度分类
◼ Specialty – Narrow, Deep Assortment专业-窄，深的分类

◼ Considering Assortment Buyer must be accutely

aware of the physical space - store space
◼ Selling floor, fixtures, fittings that display the goods –
physical space limitation
◼ Each style, colour takes up space
◼ Continuity – consideration of Visual Merchandising &
offer makes sense to the customer e.g. Tennis
racquets in Formal Apparel , Brand known for Shoes
& Handbags
◼ Positively or negatively affect your sales per sq ft
Season
◼ Season – is another critical consideration季节-是另⼀个重要的考虑因素
◼ The Season identifies the time of the year the products will be wor
◼ Influences
➢ Fabric selectio
➢ Color style
➢ Weather condition
➢ Consumer need
◼ Helps establish delivery date
◼ A/W most profitable Season

 Planning Seasonal Merchandise

Seasonal collections Selling season Buying
months

Autumn/Winter Late August- March/April

(Fall) December
Christmas (Holidays October-December Feb-May
USA)

Cruise & Resort January-March June/July

Spring March-April July

Summer May-June October
Transitional July-August January/February

Back-to-School Late August-October February/March

Range Planning Strategy
Range Planning:Visual Appea
It might be easier to buy one single product but it is quite
challenging to buy a group of garments that can be merchandised
together
买⼀件商品可能⽐较容易，但让客⼈买⼀组可以⼀起销售的服装就⽐较困难了。
.

 Buying & Visual Appeal:

2 Considerations
◼ 1) Assortment Planning by Products产品分类规划
◼ 2) Assortment Planning whilst considering Visual
Merchandising考虑视觉营销的同时进⾏分类规划

i) Assortment Planning by Product Categories

◼ Size – Footwear
◼ Colour – Product Attribute , Seasonal
◼ Fabric – Men’s Shirts – Stripe, Plain, Trend, 100% Size
Cotton, Cotton Mix
◼ Category – Men’s shirts – Formal, Casual, Button
Down, Regular Collar, Formal vs Casual
◼ By Range – Workwear
◼ By Style – Silhouettes

Color iphone covers

Assortment: Fashion Brands
◼ Basic: Black, Grey, Whit
◼ Seasonal Classics A/W: Wine, Dark
Green, Olive, Dark Stone,
◼ Fashion (Highlights): Lilac, Mustard
Yellow, Petrol Blue
e

Fabric
100% Cotton Vs Cotton Mix

Stripes Vs Plain
Category: Formal Vs Casual Wear
By Range: Workwear Brand
◼ Brand will offer the range in series of outfits
◼ Blouses, Trousers, Dresses, Skirts, Tops, Jackets
◼ Suit may have 3-4 components from same
fabric e.g. Jacket, Dress, Skirt
◼ Top to Bottom buying Ratio e.g. 3 to 1 or 4 to
1 for every 1 bottom you match with 3-4 tops
该品牌将提供⼀系列的套装衬衫，裤⼦，连⾐裙，裙⼦，上⾐，夹克//
⻄服可以由3-4件相同⾯料制成，如夹克、连⾐裙、裙⼦/顶部与底部的
购买⽐率，例如3⽐1或4⽐1，每1个底部你匹配3-4个顶部
 ◼ Hemline

By Style
◼ Waist line
◼ Neckline
◼ Sleeve Length & Type

– Sleeve/less tropics
s

ii) Buying & Visual Merchandising

◼ Design Direction or the concept behind the brand is important
◼ The ‘Mood’ of the collection is key to success or failure of the brand
◼ Design Direction should be communicated immediately & resonate with
consumer
◼ E.g. Collection Design Direction is Feminine, Edgy, Sophisticated, Sporty,
Relaxed etc
The Kooples以其独⼀⽆⼆的情侣概念⽽⼴为⼈知，“Kooples”⼀词也来源于英
⽂单词“ Couples（情侣）”
Colour & Visual Merchandising
◼ Neutral classic colours sell e.g. Black, White, Grey, Nav
◼ Colour & Fabric Options in a range can help you ‘Tell a story’ for the
seaso
◼ Select same colour and fabric options across number of styles to create
‘story in range’

Colour & Visual Merchandising:

Guidelines
◼ No hard & fast rule depends on the brand
◼ Total Number of Colours in range 5-6 Max
◼ Too little & effect = boring
◼ Too many colours & effect = messy
n

2 Drab 单调 Colours = No Appeal

Raffle school – yellow black
3 Colours but greens are too close in colour 3 Colours, 1 x Strong Highlight Colour, Interest created by
tone = No Appeal Textures, 3 x Prints =Hanger Appeal 3种颜⾊，1 ×强烈的⾼光
颜⾊，纹理创造的兴趣，3 ×印花=⾐架吸引⼒
Deciding Parameters of Range Planning
确定靶场规划参数
Parameters Range Planning: In-house Buying
Team or Buy Wholesale Brand
内部购买团队VS购买批发品牌
◼ Garments can be designed by an in-house team of designers or by designers
who work for the garment suppliers服装可以由内部设计师团队设计，也可以由为服装供应商⼯作
的设计师设计

◼ Buyers may purchase garments from supplier’s original designs or may

develop garments to suit to their consumer and brand needs.买⽅可以从供应商的原
始设计购买服装，也可以开发适合其消费者和品牌需要的服装。

Parameters Range Planning: Budget

◼ The initial range plan usually takes the

form of a list of appropriate garments
that the buyer intends to purchase for a
given season and which should cost no
more than a set budget最初的服装范围计划通常
是以⼀份合适的服装清单的形式出现的，采买在特定季节购买
这些服装，其花费不应超过固定的预算
s

Summary: Checklist for range planning

Checklist Range Planning

◼ Specific garment/product styles 特定的服装/产品⻛格

◼ Proportion of different types of garment/products不同类型服装/产品的⽐例
◼ Fabrics and color-ways (for each style)⾯料和颜⾊(每种款式)
◼ Sizes (for specific geographic location)⼤⼩(特定地理位置)
◼ Assortment volume各种体积
◼ Order quantities per style每款订购数量
◼ Prices (retail and cost price)价格(零售及成本价)
◼ Manufacturer to use相关制造商
Guidelines for Buying Selection of
Brands
Buying a Brands to give your consumer variety (depth)

1. USP of your Retail Store >>what products is the store known for?
2. Retail Category & Customer expectations?>> Why does the customer
shop at this type of store? What do they expect
3. Competitors Offer?>>>Any Gaps in Offer
4. Space of the physical stor
5. Trends>>>New hot brands are entering into the market
6. Exclusives

-你的零售商店的USP ;商店以什么产品闻名
-零售类别与顾客期望?为什么顾客会在这种类型的商店购物?他们期望什
么?
-竞争对⼿的报价?有任何缺⼝吗?
-实体店的空间
-流⾏趋势新的热⻔品牌正在进⼊市场
-独家看点
e