Margarita de Orellana

"FOUNDATION OF THE CITY AND SEA PORT OF VERACRUZ"

Source: Artes de México, No. 116, VERACRUZ 450 ANIVERSARIO (1969), pp. 74-76
Published by: Margarita de Orellana
Stable URL: https://www.jstor.org/stable/24314596
Accessed: 17-02-2024 20:39 +00:00

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 VERACRUZ
4 50th Anniversary
FOREWORD was called by the invaders "Our Lady of Snows" on
account of the snow capped peaks of San Martín, Pico de
An interesting graphic report is presented Orizaba and Cofre de Perote that, during the winter
by Artes
de México in this issue, on occasion of the 450th anniver provided a snowy background.
sary of the City and Port of Veracruz. The same day the Spaniards disembarked. Cortés,
The author has eagerly sought to have it ready for after the usual ceremony of sticking his sword and a
the press on time. This work is the results of laborious cross in the sand, he busied himself, helped by his men
trials, necessary to obtain a satisfactory result. and the Indians sent by Moctezuma, with construction
Desire and curiosity to learn about his ancestors of an altar, where he placed a large cross and the image
and the history of Veracruz —where he was born— have of Our Lady, and some palm huts and sheds for the
made him dedicate several years of his life, to collect all artillery and the horses. Fray Bartolomé de Olmedo said
antiquites related with the city. He has resorted to all mass, and as there were many Indians, Cortés ordered to
available sources of information in the country, as well have the arquebuses and falconets fired and horse races
as in other foreign places, to obtain reproductions from staged with jingles in the horses' girths to intimidate and
old engravings, photographs, lithographs, paintings, etc. frighten the Indians, as so happened, runing back asto
We hope this work will be useful and interesting nished, to report waht they had seen to Moctezuma. But
not only to investigators but for all persons fond of our their stay at this camp was brief. Yellow fever, cholera
history also. We also hope that this our effort may arise morbus and other deseases medically unknown at the
and encourage the new generations care for such an time, soon decimated the soldiers ranks, specially the
attractive and interesting subject, not only due to its wounded that in great numbers were concentrated there,
beauty but because every illustration represents a passage from the battlefields of Tabasco. So Cortés decided to
of our history. move the encampment to a better place and sent Captain
The publishers. Francisco de Montejo in search of a more adequate site,
that he found, eight leagues to the North of present Ve
"FOUNDATION OF THE CITY AND SEA racruz, in a Totonac settlement called Quiahuixtlan, that
PORT OF VERACRUZ" means rainy place, where, due to its height and location
was healthier and would be easier to defend.

Today's four times heroic city and first The sea idea
port ofof
moving inland did not meet with all
Mexico, was founded by Cortés, who, following the the men's approval, because many of them felt content
already with the ransom they had exacted on the Natives
route of earlier expeditions under Francisco Hernández
and were not willing to undertake new adventures con
de Córdoba and Juan de Grijalva, arrived to the small
island of Culúa (the present San Juan desidered Ulúa) as onhighly
Aprilperilous and wished remain loyal to
21, 1519, that year's holy thursday withDiego de Velázquez.
ten ships and a
brig; the captain ship under his direct command, Cortés,
andsensing
the the situation, realized that if he
other nine under Captains Alonso Hernández carried out the order to move, a serious division would
Puerto
Carrero, Francisco de Montejo, Cristóbal be de
provoked
Olid,among
Die his men —which he in the least
go de Ordaz, Juan Velázquez de León, wanted Juantode happen—
Esca so pretending to submit, announced
lante, Francisco de Moría y Escobar "El Peje" and the reshipment and the return to Cuba for the next day.
In the mean time, the men addicted to him, made active
Ginés Nortes, (the brig), every ship with a pilot and
Antón de Alaminos as Master Pilot. The small island propaganda among the people to accept the establishment
was not, of course, as it is at present, when a great of aarea
city at the very site of the encampment, in order to
has been gained from the sea and it is connected to strengthen
firm Cortés, giving him "legal" personality and
land by a wide dyke protected with a strong breakwater, making him independent from Diego de Velázquez, and
confortable and covered with vegetation, but it was so they
a did the following day, when Cortés in the com
barren small island, almost two miles from firm land. It pany of his captains and followers maneuvered to make
was named San Juan, to honor Juan de Grijalva, the it appear that it was the majority's decision to found
Captain of the second expedition sent by Diego de Ve there the city and he had to accpet it. He then knelt on
lázquez, Governor of Cuba in search of gold, and Ulúa the ground, stuck in the sand his sword and a banner
because the Indians called the place Culúa, but the Spa with Virgin Mary's image painted on a red damask
niards clumsily pronounced Ulúa. fabric, naming the settlement Rich Village of Veracruz,
Next day. Holy Friday, April 22, in the morning, in remembrance of the day they reached firm land The
Cortés gave orders to go on shore before Ulúa in the Municipal Council was integrated by Francisco Hernán
firm land at the beaches of Chalchihuecan, and although dez Portocarrero and Francisco de Montejo as Mayor;
it is said that it is not possible to mark the exact place Juan de Escalante as Constable, Gonzalo de Mejía as
they dis ( 1 ) embarked, it is quite possible that this took Treasurer and Diego Godoy as scrivener; the pillory was
place in the present site of Hotel Buena Vista, at the erected at the center of the town and thé gallows in the
outskirts.
crossing of Landero y Coss and Mario Molina Streets
to where the sea reached in those days, since this was Once the show was over, the Council asked Cortés
closest area to San Juan de Ulúa, where they came from. to show his credentials, which were found inadequate,
It is a mistake to affirm that such beaches were calledbut in turn he was appointed as the Kings' representa
Chalchihuecan by the Natives, meaning "emerald co tive, Captain of the Army and Major Justice. Invested
lored field" because they were too narrow, followed by such powers, Cortés gave the order, three month
with
an endless chain of sand dunes, increasing in height from
later, to change the Vilage's site to the location chosen
the low ones to the highest all of quicks and without by Montejo, eight leagues to the Nort called Quiahui
any water, so arid that hardly could give the impres tlan —from then on called Archidona— and half an
sion of an emerald field Probably the Indians called hour walk from the bay where Montejo landed, which
Chalchihuecan, what today is known as Isla Verde, due named Bernai. Neither place exists today, although at
to the fact that its luxuriant vegetation and its many the latter Cortés sink his ships, scuttling them —not
trees appear, from the sea shores, as a bright green spot; burning them as the legend goes— to prevent insurrection
that is why Grijalva named it Isla Verde. The inland and the dissension of his troops.
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 All merchandise had to be unloaded at Bernai and chandise stored and sinking many boats and reaching
then carried on to Archidona with great difficulty and out to San Juan de Ulúa itself and the firm land where
no safety, so it was decided, at the end of 1525, to move Buitron's and Machorro's inns were built. This catas
again the Village's site, this time to the banks of a river trophe was reported to the Spanish Court and appeal
(today's "de la Antigua", at the time called Huitzilapan made to have the Village's location changed again. This,
and also Canoas sometime later) to a nicer and agreea- Df course, met with the bitter opposition of those whose
ble location, closer to the island of San Juan de Ulúa interests would be affected by the change and nothing
where the ships unloaded their cargos and were taken was done for a while. Anyway, ships continued to be
to Antigua by boat. But such transportation by water also unloaded at San Juan de Ulúa and their cargoes trans
resulted quite bothersome and risky, taking sometimes ferred by boats to the firm land in front of Buitrón's
as much as four months to unload a ship and twice as inn. So, Don Alvaro Manrique de Zuñiga, Marquis of
much time to reload and get it ready to sail back. Besides, Villamanrique, Viceroy at the time, thought it neces
this slow and long back and forth chossing of merchan- sary to have a road built to connect directly the firm
dise propiciated contraband in a large scale by eluding land at Buitrón's inn location with the City of Mexico,
payment of taxes according to the right classification of starting the collecting of voluntary offers for the pur
merchandise. Many complaints were made to Mexico's pose; but Don Luis de Velasco, his succesor thought
and Spain's authorities for this motive, until a royal differently, informing the Court that as long as no lod
officer was ordered, in July 12, 1530, to be stationed gings, warehouses, fortresses and customhouses were not
at the port, four months each year, to appraise merchan- not built the road was unnecessary.
dise, jointly with the Village's justice and an alderman So, Don Gaspar de Zuñiga y Acevedo, Count of
in order to asses taxes. Monterrey, the next viceroy (November 5, 1595-October
In spite of all this, commercial relations between 27, 1603) suspended the collection and or
Antigua and Mexico City had already been established a large wooden shed to have fine and d
and permits were granted for the functioning of road dise stored in, taking to Antigua the coars
side inns for catering to travelers. One of the first was On the other hand, the same viceroy order
granted to Juan Bautista Buitrón, right at the beach a train of wagons, loaded with pelts and ord
where Cortés landed, April 22, 1519, in the site where should try the road projected by the M
today's Hotel Diligencias rises, and soon another was manrique, going through Maltrata, Orizab
granted to a man named Machorro. In June, 1525, Fran- Juan de la Punta and Cotaxtla, but skippi
cisco de Aguilar seccured a licence to open an inn at and Jamapa. The drivers reported that t
Perote and a soldier named Lencero founded another in in general, easier and safer than the o
the place now known as La Venta (The Inn) close to covered in the same time; nevertheless bo
Jalapa. Commerce increased, due to the traffic of all nued to be used.
kinds of goods brought from Spain to supply New Spain The viceroy Zuñiga y Acevedo was ke
with manufactures, tools, machinery, cattle, fabrics, gro- in moving the Village of Veracruz from
ceries, etc., and the shipping of raw materials to the Old to a new location on the firm land near B
World. So, around 1530, the Antigua Villa Rica de la that end he informed the Royal Treasury's of
Veracruz, was connected to New Spain's Capital by a ing in Veracruz of the Kingdom's decisi
road through Izcalapa (present Rinconada), Perote and ships unloaded, from then on, on firm
Puebla, although such road was nothing but an uncon- front of Buitrón's inn and, consequently, th
fortable trail through which carts and coaches could hard- themselves and their homes to that plac
ly travel, specially during the rainy season, when it be- with the Royal Chest in order to stablish
came almost un-passable. Some year later, traffic was and Accounting Offices for the collecti
made partially by water, through the Banderas (Jamapa) rent all the necessary buildings, which w
river up to the Medellin, and then on to Jamapa, Cotax- Carlos Sámano, in charge of Ulúa's garris
tía, San Juan de la Punta, Córdoba, Orizaba, Maltrata, Buitrón and Machorro, the inn keepers.
Nopalucan and Puebla. Finally, in 1599, the viceroy was able to make king
Commercial activity and the opening of new trails, Philip II give the order to transfer Vera
created a new trade: mule pack driving —under Saint where he had proposer, near Buitrón's i
Peter's patronage— in which great fortunes were made, carried out on the face of a strong op
since it was the only means of transportation. The mu- of the Antigua's settlers whose intere
leteers from the coast carried "jaras" (a kind of dart or Venta de Buitrón's inhabitants numbe
arrow) with them, as a weapon, and for that reason they time, Spaniards many of them, eng
were called "jarochos"; a surname that has survived up or stevedores, although the traveling p
to the present, applied to the folk from Veracruz. For on account of ships arrivals, the coming
safety along the roads, a Holy Brotherhood was orga- pack drivers and travelers from or
nized to persecute robbers and wrong-doers. The main to low, land was divided into lots and t
constable resided in Veracruz and officers and posses buted among the inhabitants and th
were distributed throughout the country. employees sent by the government. Mos
Graft and siorganization in the royal treasury of were one story wooden buildings, ro
Veracruz prompted the Court to sent Dr. Pedro San- tiles building stone and lime had to
tander to investigate and supervise the enforcement of Campeche, 160 miles away, taking tw
the royal ordinances published on the matter. On his plete a round trip and extremely m
arrival, sometime in May, 1558, he found a total disorder were laid out wide, in an area divided
in the unloading, assorting and appraising of merchandise the Tehoya brook, sprouting from
at the port of San Juan de Ulúa; many bales were taken swamps and lagoons at the southw
away without paying the customs, taking the word of emptying into the sea somewhere near t
the merchants for good in their declarations. Also the of Aquiles Serdán Street. Water to sup
royal treasury was defrauded because many silver and taken from this brook, adding that of
gold shipments skipped the customhouse to certify that in 1755, both of the worst quality to d
the 20% tax for "the king" had been paid. Dr. Santan- illnesses among the population.
der could non do much about it, except reporting to the As it was costumary, the suppl
Court, since he was only an overseer and denouncer. given in auction, fixing the prices a
The serious natural shot comings of the Village sum for taxes. At the start, bread had to
were accentuated in September, 1522, when a strong Puebla and all food stuffs from the
hurricane and torrential rains fell on in the area, ma- beyond the dunes that could produ
king the river swell extraordinarily, flooding the town The climate was wet and unhe
and the nearly country, causing the loss of all mer- swept by the northern winds; the gr
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dings made of wooden planks, gained the surname of immediately before the nose of the Spanish navy that did
city of boards for the new town. Besides, Nes Spain's nothing to stop them.
government could do nothing without the King of Spain After Lorencillo's assault and looting, people became
consent, so that Veracruz grew and developed thanks to so frightened that they urgently and persistently demanded
the impulse given by sea traffic alone. to have the whole city fortified. So, in 1683 the building
The Court House was not built until 1608, a two of a stone wall, about two yards and a half high with
story stone fabric with Catalonian tile roof, withouta the
strong palisade three yards high on top, was started.
tower where the clock now exists, which was added a Along the inside a stone passage was provided for the
century later and a bell placed to announce the sighting fusileers to station. This wall ran from North to South
of arriving ships, firstly made fro~i San Juan de Ulúa. around the wider area of the city, along some 1300 yards
Yet, legal confirmation of Antigua to firm land was not
and terminated by the Concepción bastion at the North
made until 1615 when a patent from Valladolid was end, overlooking the entrance to the harbor and the road
issued, by Philip III, approving the transfer, the city's to Antigua and in the South end by the Santiago. There
title, the military honors accorded as the Province's Gene were several doors, all continually guarded by infantry
ral Captainry and the name of Nueva Veracruz. Before soldiers; one near Concepción bastion to make way for
the Court House (present day Municipal Palace) a square Mexico's traffic; another, to the South, called "de la Mer
was provided for the selling of merchandise where the ced", near the convent of that name; to more to allow
muleteers occurred to load their mules for inland trans people to go and come from the piers; one more, to the
portation. Close to the Court House a church was built, South, directly overlooking the sea, to watch for ships
also with timber, without a chapel nor sacristy. Atand theboats and through which fishermen went out and
northern edge there were some wooden houses and or in, and still another, called the new door, exclusively
came
chards and before the square, where Hotel Diligencias used by the viceroy. All doors were closed at curfew
now stands, Buitrón's inn. At the back of the Court —8 PM— and were not opened again until dawn. Al
House, the shed built to classify and store incoming and
though the main occupation of the, people had to do with
sea traffic, and the unfavorable natural conditions made
out going merchandise, for tax collecting purposes, stood.
An additional 4% tax was left as insurance and wholy operations slow, cumbersome and costly, the population
applied to the Navy. Where Edificio de Trigueros now kept on growing and the area inside the wall became in
stands the market place was built, and farther back, sufficient
to and new houses had to be buitl outside the wall,
the edge of the sea water, a fishery that still existsrather
at modest it is true, but far more comfortable than
Landero y Coss Street. At the crossing of Mario Molina those inside, where it was so crowded that all kinds of
and Independencia Streets, the Inquisition's Holy Officeplagues and communicable deseases constantly afflicted
was housed, which later became Julián Aragón y Sobri the population, specially malaria. From time to time, ear
no's home, and close to Hotel Buena Vista, the Agustinian
nest efforts were made, constantly appealing to higher
convent was built. According to Dr. Trens, the Historian,
authorities, to improve the harbor and undertake sanitation
right where the colonnades of Café de la Parroquia now works in the city; but it was not until governor Landero's
stands, the Desamparados (the forsaken ones) was lo period, in 1874, that really serious measures were taken,
cated, cut in two by the asile of the same name. At south
with the enthusiastic assistance of active Messrs.
ern outskirts, beyond Tenoya brook, a humble chapel Meanwhile, the 10th of January, 1873 Dr. Sebastián
existed, known as "el Cristo", where a pitch black image
Lerdo de Tejada, President of the Republic, inaugurat
of Christ was venerated, specially by travelers who askeded the railroad line already in active service, between Me
for his protection, for that reason it is also known as the
xico City and Veracruz, greatly increasing commercial
Godspeed chapel. activities and sea traffic as well. Also in 1875, a concession
San Juan de Ulúa, we said it before, was a barren was given to Messrs. Domingo A. Mirón and Francisco
small island that hardly provided any shelter for ships, Mosqueira to establish a street car service, hauled by mu
but as the seas began to be plowed by pirates, —a highly les, the main line went from Juárez Street through Inde
pendencia, up to Tianón.
favored activity at the time, practiced even by the English,
Portuguese and Spanish governments themselves— that Veracruz was a completely open port with nothing
had already reached to Jamaica and Campeche, fright for shelter but the small island of San Juan de Ulúa and
spread out among the people and it was decided, in 1564, the reefs near by, and the shallow waters made it impos
to start fortifying Ulúa, until 1572, when the job was sible for large draught ships to get close to the shore.
finished, after moving the artillery formerly installed Finally,
at in 1881, under General Marciano González' ad
la Antigua and strengthening the means of defense with ministration, the improvement works were started, under
the guns taken from the pirates John Hawkins and Francis contract with an English firm, Pearson & Company, buil
Drake who, in 1568 got hold by surprise of Ulúa's Casttle,
ding a breakwater and dyke, running from Caleta to Ga
but were later put to rout by the Spanish Navy. Besides, llegilla reef, to protect the harbor from the strong winds
the Marquis de Cerralvo ordered eighteen powerful ord from the North and another breakwater and dyke from
nances from the Philippines that were also set at San Homos beach to Lavandera reef. In this manner the har
Juan de Ulúa thus completing, by 1626, its fortification.
bor was surrounded and an artificial port made, affording
At dawn, May 17, 1683, the French pirate Laurent due protection for the large ships. Another dyke was built
—called Lorencillo— assailed Veracruz by surprise, leain the interior, from North to South, to connect with the
ding fifteen hundred rascals, determined to fight mercil
Sanitary services pier and the area, to the shore, was
essly to the end, and in a short the population, numbering
filled up with sand gaining a great extention to the sea,
about seven thousand, was subdued and confined to the where many buildings were raised, such as the custom
convent and church of la Merced, men, women, children, house and its warehouses, the Post Office building and
rich people, paupers, negroes, ministers of the church, the lighthouse; in modern times, the Hotel Emporio, the
stacked up all together with no food, no water to drink Bank of Mexico Building and countless houses. All stone
and almost without enough air to breathe. Meanwhile used in the project was brought from Peñuela, sixty miles
the pirates engaged themselves in the most savage plunder away, in railroad gondolas, four train loads each day. All
and robbery, destroying everything they met, homes and these works, as well as the water supply system from El
buildings, as well as ware houses, stores, hospitals and Tejar, were sumptuously inaugurated by General Porfi
what not, carrying to their ships all the loot they could rio Diaz the 6th of March, 1902.
gather. Five days later, the merchants, the wealthy ones,
the governor, some friars and priests, the maidens and
the beautiful women were taken out by the pirates. The "HERNAN CORTES' MEDAL"
women to be raped, the negroes to help them carry and
embark their loot and the rest were taken to Sacrificios During Ignacio M. Altamirano and Alfredo Ba
Island to be held for a ransom of $ 150,000, and as soon trip to Xalapa in 1875, they located Mrs. Molina
as it was paid they were set free, the pirates fleeing widow of an antiquarian, who possessed Hernán
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