LAB O RATO RY MAN UAL

DYEIN G
AND

TEXTILE C HEMISTRY

BY

J.M ERR ITT M A TT H EW S ,

PH D
. .

F I R S T E D I TI O N
F IRS T THOU S A ND

N EW Y O R K

JO H N W IL EY 8: SO N S
LO ND O N : CHA P MAN HA LL, LIMITED
I9 OQ
 P R EF A C E .

T HIS vo lu me i s d e sign e d wi t h t he purpos e of m e e t ing t he

d e mand for a t e xt book on t h e subj e c t of t e xt il e dy e ing and
-

ch e mis t ry Th e m e t hod of pr e s e n t a t ion and t h e subj e c t ma t t e r

.

h e r e in con t ain e d hav e b e e n t h e ou t com e of a numb e r of y e ars

of t e aching on t h e par t of t h e au t hor Car e has b e e n t ak e n t o
.

avo id a t o o pur e ly sc i e n t ific g e n e rali z at ion e lse as a t e x t book

,
-

i t would lose i t s main valu e Th e subj e c t t r e a t e d is a t e chnical

.

o ne ,
and an e nd e avor has b ee n mad e t o pr e s e n t i t in a t e chnic al
mann e r ; t hat is t o say d e fini t e fac t s hav e b e e n pr e s e n t e d in a
,

d e fini t e form F o r t h is purpos e t h e e xp e rim e n t al m e t hod has

.
,

b e en adop t e d fur t h e r elu c i d at i o n b e ing giv e n in addi t ional no t e s

,

as succinc t ly e xpr e ss e d as possible Th e in s e r t ion of qui z qu e s

.

t ions h a s als o b e e n c arri e d o u t in ord e r t o s t ir up t h e t h o u g ht

f

of t h e s t ud e nt aft e r h e has p e rform e d t h e ma nu a l e xp e rim e n t .

This book is in t e nd e d as an e l e m e n t ary manual for t h e s t ud e n t s

W h o ar e primarily t o b e found in t h e various t e x t il e schools and
in ins t i t u t ions W h e r e t h e many branch e s of t e chnical ch e mis t ry
a r e t augh t . It i s hop e d t ha t i t will b e of som e valu e t o bo t h t h e
s t ud e n t and t h e t e ach e r in t e r e st e d in t his lin e of inst ruc t ion It .

is primar i ly a la b o ra to ry manual or guid e and i s in t e nd e d t o dir e c t

,

and suppl e m e n t t h e l e c t ur e s of t h e t e ach e r and should b e us e d i n

,

conj unc t ion wi t h t h e mor e g e n e ral t r e at is e s on t h e subj e c t .

Th e subj e c t ma t t e r i s divid e d in such a mann e r as t o provid e

a course of inst ruc t ion for o ne compl e t e coll e g e y e ar e ach s e c t ion ,

corr e sponding t o a w e e kly appor t ionm e n t of s t udy Th e e xp e ri .

m e n t al par t W ill r e quir e from e igh t t o t w e lv e hours Of laborat ory

prac t ic e e ach w e e k ; t hough su ffi ci e n t e xp e rim e n t s hav e b e e n
giv e n t o allow t h e t e ach e r consid e rabl e lat i t ud e as far as s e l e c t ion
of mat e ri al and l e ng t h O f labora t ory prac t ic e ar e conc e rn e d .

J M ERRITT MATTHEWS
.
.

TAU N TO N, D e cem b e r , 1 9 08

1 8441 9
 CO NTENT S .

IN TRO D UCT O RY .

A pp a ra t u s Re qu i re d

SE C TIO N I — C EMI
. H C AL STUDY O F TH E FIB REs .

EX P .

1 Ac t i o n o f Ac id s o n Wo o l a n d Co t t o n

2 Ac t io n Of g i
Or an c Ac i d s o n Co t t o n

3 Ac t io n o f Alk li a es .

4 Act io n o f M e t a lli c S a lt s
5 Ac t i o n o f B le a c h i n g P wd o er

S a m le s p ( 1 —2 1 )
Q u iz 1 ( 1 — 26 )

SE C TIO N II . S C O U RIN G TH E T EX TIL E F I B ES

R .

S co u ri n gR aw Wo o l by t h e Em u ls io n P ro c es s

Us e o f P o t as h i n S co u ri ng Wo o l .

Effe c t o f Hi h T e m g p e ra t u r es i n S co u ri n g .

Effe ct o f Us i n gE x c e ss i v e Al k a li i n Sco u ri n gR aw Wo o l
S co ur i n g W l Y by t h U l M
oo en a rn e su a eth o d
Sco u ri n gW l Y m C t i i gI
o o en a o n a n n ro n

S co u ri n g C t t wi t h C t i S d
o o n au s c o a

Sco u ri n g C t t wi t h S d A h
o o n o a s .

Sc o u ri n g C t t with S p
o o n o a

S c o u t i ng Co t t o n w i t h Fa nkh a u s i ne .

Sco u ri n gR aw Si l k
No tes .

Sa m le s p ( 22 —
39 )
Qu i z z (27

SE C TIO N III — B E . L ACH IN G OF WO OL .

1 7 B le a c h i n gW o o l by Ti t i g n n .

1 8 B le a c h i n gW 00 1 w i t h S lph A id G
u u ro us c as

1 9 B le a c hi n gW 00 1 wi t h S d i m B i lph i t
o u su e .

20 B lea ch i n gW 00 1 wi t h S di m P o id u e ro x e

21 B le a ch i n gW 00 1 wi th P t i m P m o g a ss u er an a na t e

Sa m le s p ( 4 0 —
5 1
)
Q u iz 3 ( 58
 i CO N TEN TS .

C
SE TION IV . BLEACHIN G o r COTTON .

EXP
wi t h
.

22 B le ach i ng Co t t o n Ch lo rid e o f Lime .

23 Use o f “
Ant i Ch lo - r
”
fo r Re m o g Ch l i vi n o r ne i n B lea chi n g
24 B le a ch i n gL o o se Co tt o n fo r Ab b tP p so r en u r o s es

25 Ti nt i n g a nd So ft e ni n g o f B le a ch ed Co t t o n

26 Us e o f Ace t i c Ac id i n B lea c h i ng
27 Us e o f L i m e B o il i n B lea c h i n gC o t to n .

28 Use o f So di u m H yp o c h lo ri t e .

29 Co m p a ri so n o f t h e Use o f Su l h u ri c p a nd y
H d ro c h lo ri c Aci ds i n B leach i ng

3 0 Use o f Ch lo ro zo ne

S a m le sp ( )
5 2 —6
7
Qu i z 4 ( 8 2 —1 0
7)

C
SE TION V . CLA SS F C A
I I TION O F DYE S .

Act i o n o f Ac i d D y es

Ac t i o n Of B as i c Dy es .

Ac t i o n o f Su bt s a nt i v e D y es

Act i o n Of Mo rda nt Dyes

Ac t i o n o f Pi m e nt Dg y es

No t es .

Sa m le s p ( 6 8— 86
)
Qu i z 5 ( 1 0 8— 1 3 0)

SE C TIO N VI .
— APP L I C AT ION O F A C ID DYE S .

G e ne ra l M et h o d o fD y i g A id C
e n c o lo rs o n Wo o l
wi g t h U f G l b lt t h Dy b t h
Dy i gW
Sh o n e se o au e rsa In e e- a

i t h Ai dClor
. .

Sh w i g t h I fl
o n f t h Am t f A id
e n u e n ce o s e o un O c In e n c o .

Sh wi g t h E h
o nti f t h Dy b t h
e x au s o n o e e- a

Dy i g A id Dy i
e n N t l B th c es n a e u ra a

Dy i g f Alk li B l
e n o a ue

No tes .

Sa m le s p ( 7
8 —1 01
)
Q u iz 6 ( 1 3 1 —1 64 )

SE C TIO N V II .
—A PPL IC ATIO N OF A C D DYES
I .

42 D y i g A id Dy
e n c es o n Ac i d ifie d Wo o l
4 3 Aft e r t re a t m e nt O f a n Ac id Dy e
-
i t h Ch ro m e w
44 Us e o f Ac e t i c Ac i d i n D e i n Ac id Co lo rs y g .

45 Use o f a Ch ro m o t ro p Dy e .
 CO N TE N TS . vi i

Exp
47 G e ne ral Met ho d Of Dye i ng Aci d D y es o n Co tt o n

48 D y i gi
e n n a N e u t ra l Sa lt B a t h
49 Us e Of
“
B lu e Mo rd a nt ”

5 0 Us e o f So di um St a nn at e M o rd a nt
5 1 D e y g
i n Si lk i t h Ac i d D es y w
5 2 Use o f A t i A id i Dy i g Silk
ce c c n e n

5 3 Us e O f B i l d E Li q
o i Dy i ng S i lk
e -
O uo r n e

N o t es
S a m les p ( 1 0 2— 1 2 3 )
Qu i z 7 ( 1 65 -
1 93 )

C
SE TION V III . REP RE ENTATIVE AS C D DYES
I .

5 4 Re p re se nt a t i v e y
Ac i d D es o n Wo o l
55 R pe re s e nt a t i ve A i d Dy
c es o n Co t t o n

56 R pe re s e nt a t i v e A i d Dy
c es o n Si l k
N o t es .

S am lesp ( 1 2 4— 1
5 1 )
Qui z 8 ( 1 94
—2 1
9)

SE C TIO N IX .
— TE ST N GI TH E F ASTNEss OF CO L OR S .

Fas t ne s s t o Li h t g
Fas t ne s s t o Wash i n g .

Fas t ne ss t o F u lli n o g r M i lli ng

F as t ne ss t o Wa t e r .

Fas tn ess t o P e rs i ra t io p n

F as t ne s s t o Ca r b o ni z i n g
Fas t ness t o C ro ss - D y e i ng

Fas t ne ss t o Cro c ki g n o r Ru bbi g n

Ta b u la t i o n O f R e s u lt s Of Te s t s
p
S a m le s ( 1 2 —
5 20 1 )
Q u iz 9 ( 2 2 0— 2 56 )

SE TION C X — AP P. LIC ATION OF BA S C DYES

I To WOOL AND SILK .

6 7 G e ne ra l Met h o d o fA pplyi g B n as i c D y es to Wo o l
68 Sh o wi g t h n e Effe c t o f H a rd Wa t e r o n B as i c Dy es

6 9 Sh o wi ng t h e G re at e r Co lo ri n gP w o er o f B as i c D y es o ve r Acid D y es

70 Use o f a N e u t ra l B a t h .

7 1 Dy i g Si lk wit h B
e n as i c Co lo rs

72 Dy i g Si lk i
e n N n a e u t ra l So a pB at h
vii i CO N TEN TS .

EXP
y k wit h T
.

73 Af t e r-
t re at m e nt o f B as i c D es o n Si l a n ni n

N o t es .

Sa m le s p ( 2 1 4)
20 2
—

Q
u iz I O ( 57
2 — 2 80
)

SE C TIO N XI .
— B AS IC DYE S ON COTTO N .

G e ne ra l Met ho d o fD yig e n

F ix i ng Ta nni n o n Co tt wi t h T
o n a rt a r Em e t i c

Us e o f O t her A g e nt s in D y i gB
e n as i c D y es

D y i gB
e n as i c Co lo rs i n O ne B at h
Use o f th e J a nu s D y es

No t es .

S a m les p ( 5 2 26 )
21 —

Q u iz 1 1 ( 2 8 1 —
3 26)

SE C TIO N X II . S
REP RE ENTATIV E B A S C DYES
I .

8 0 P ri nci p al B as i c D y es o n Co tt o n

81 P ri n c ip al B as i c Dy es o n S ilk .

N o t es .

S a m les p ( 2 2 7— 2 46 )
Qu i z 1 2 (3 2 7

SE C TION X III — AP P L I. C AT IO N O F SU BS AN
T TIV E Dy Es To CO TTON .

G e ne ra l Met h o d Of D y i gC
e n o t to n
In flu e nce Of the Amo u nt o f S a lt i n t h e Dye - b ath

Us e o f So d a Ash .

Use Of So a p
Aft e r -
t rea t m e nt w i t h Ch ro me
Aft e r -
t re a t m e n t wi t h B l u es t o ne

D yi gie n n a Co ld B a t h
Sh a di ng Su bt s a nt i v e D y wi t h B
es as i c D y es

No tes .

S a m les p ( 2 4 7— 2 7 8
)
Qu i z 1 3 (3 9 4 5 )
6 — 1

C
SE TION X IV .
—'

SUB SA T N TIV E DYE S ON WOO L AN D SIL K .

90 G e ne ra l Me t ho d o fD yi gW
e n oo l
91 Use Amm o ni u m Ac e t a t e i n t h e Dye
Of -
b at h

92 y
D e i ng i n a S ligh t l Acid y
‘
9 3 Sh o wi g t h n e A ppli cat i o n O f Su bt
s a nt i v e D y es o n Uni o n M at e ri al
 CO N TEN TS . ix
EXP
wit h Ch m
.

9 4 Aft e r t rea t m e nt
-
ro e .

95 Aft e r t
- re
a t m e nt wi t h Ch m i m Fl id ro u uo r e

9 6 Ex a m pl f S b te o ti Dy t C l i g W 1
a u s an ve e no o o r n 00

9 7 G e n e ra l M t h d f App ly i g S b t
e ti
o Dy t S i lk
o n u s an ve es o .

No t es .

p
S a m le s ( 2 7 9—2 9 7
)
Q uiz 1 4 (4 1 6—
44 9 )

SE C TIO N X V — REP RE EN T
. S ATIV E SU BS ANT TIV E D YE S ON CO TTO N .

9 8 R e p re s e nt i v e Su bt s a nt i v e D y es

No t e s .

Qu i z 1 5 ( 45 0 -
470 )

C
SE TIO N X V I — APP L I . CA TIO N O F MORD ANT DYES TO WOO L .

99 G e ne ra l M etho d Of D yig
e n

Effe ct o f Iro n S a lt s i n t h e B a t h .

1 01 Co m p a ri so n o f D iffe re nt M o rd a nt s o n Wo o l
1 02 Aft e r M o rd a nt i n
-
g wi t h Ch ro me
N o t es .

Qu i z 1 6 ( 47 1 — 0
5 4 )

SE C TIO N X V II . DEV EL O P ED DY Es ON CO TTO N AN D SIL K .

G e ne ra l Meth o d o fA pp lyi g D n e v e lo ped D y es

wi g t h A t i f H t
Sh o n e c o n o ea o n the D i azo B o d y
D l p d Bl k
e ve o C tt
e ac o n o o n

Dy i g P i m li
e n S i lk r u ne o n .

Dy i g D
e n l p d Bl k
a eve o e ac o n S i lk
No tes .

p
S a m le s (3 4 8 3 5 9 ) -

Q u iz 1 7 ( 5 0 5— 5 33 )

SE C TIO N X V III — . SULP H UR DYE S ON CO TTO N .

G e ne ra l pp lyi g S i lph Dy
M et ho d o fA n l ur es . .

Aft t tm
e r- re a t f S lph Dy wi t h Ch
en o u ur es ro me
O bt i i g B l k w i t h S lph
a n n Dy ac u ur es

U se ofA t g Bl k u o e ne ac .

N o t es
X CO N TEN TS .

S T ON
E I X C
IX — . US E OF G
LO WOO D IN DYEIN G .

1 1 2 G e nera l y i g L gw
Met h o d o f D e n o oo d o n Co tt o n

1 1 3 Efi t f Oec Ch m i g
o v e r- ro n

1 1 4 Sh d i g L gw d wi t h Ali
a n o i Y o o za r n e llo w
1 1 5 L gw d B l k
o C tt
oo wi t h ac o n o o n an Iro n

1 1 6 To O b t a i n a F as t e r a nd

1 1 7 D y i g L gw d wit h t T i
e n o oo o u a nn n

1 18 D y i g Si lk P B l k wi t h L gw
e n a u re ac o oo d
No t e s .

Sa m les p —
( 3 7 4 3 86 )
Qui z 1 9 ( 5 4 59 9)
6 —

C
SE TIO N XX — THE . M IN OR N ATU RAL DYES .

Use o f Fust ic .

Us e o f M a dd e r .

Us e o f Arc h i l .

Us e o f Q u e rc i t ro n

Us e o f Cu t c h
Us e o f Co c h i ne a l
No t es .

Sa m p les (3 8 7 —
4 00 )
Q u iz 2 0 (600

SE C TIO N XX L — THE M INERAL DYES TUFFS .

Ch ro m e Y e llo w o n Co tt o n

Ch ro m e O ra ng e o n

Iro n B ufi o n Co tt o n

Iro n G ra y o n Co t t o n

M a nga ne se B ro w n o n Co t t o n

Ch ro m e G re e n o n Co t t o n .

P ru ss i a n B lu e o n Co t t o n o r Wo o l
No t es

S am pl es (4 0 1 —
9)
41
Q u iz 2 1 ( 39
6 —6 66
)

SE C TION XXII — . T H E V AT DYE S .

 CO N TEN TS .

EXP
k wi t h I d y
.

I37 Pro d u ct i o n o f Fas t P i n n a nt h re ne D es

1 38

S am les p (4 20 —
43 5)
Q u iz 22 —
( 6 7 6 8 6)
6

SE C TIO N XX III .
— THE TE S TIN G OF DYE S TUF FS .

b
TO O t ai n t h e M o ne y Va lu e o f a Dy e st u fi S am le p .

To De t e rm i ne i f a D ye s t ufi i s p
S i m le o r M ix ed .

To De t e rm i ne t h e C lass t o h i ch w a D y e st u fi B e lo g
n s .

Ch e m i c a l M etho d o f Di t i g s n u ish i n g b tw
e een Ac i d a nd B as i c D y es t u f
fs
D e t e ct i o n o f Ad u lt e rat i o ns i n Dy es t u fi s .

De t e rm i na t i o n o f t h e Ca p y p
i lla r S ee d o f D y es t u ffs

Qu i z 23 6 8 — 08
( 7 7 )

SE C TIO N X X IV . C EMI H C AL RE A C TIO N S OF DYE S UFFS

T .

b yT t
So lu i li t es s

Re ac ti wi t h S lph i A d
o n u ur c ci

Re a c ti wi t h Hyd h l i A id
o n ro c o r c c

Re ac ti wi t h N i t i A id
o n r c c

Re a c ti wi t h S di m Hyd t
o n o u ra e .

R eac ti wi t h Am m i
o n o n a

Re a c ti wi t h S d i m C b t
o n o u ar o na e

Re a c ti wi t h T i R g t
o n a nn n ea en

Re a c ti wi t h Al m
o n u

R ea c ti wi t h P t i m B i h m
o n o as s u c ro at e

Re a c ti wi th F i Ch l id
o n e rr c o r e

Reac ti wit h St
o n Ch l i d a nno u s o r e

Re a ct io n w i t h B le a c h i ng Po w d e r .

Re a c t i o n w i t h Zi nc D u st
Re a c t i o n w i t h Zi n
c
D u st a nd Ac e t i c Ac id
Ta b u la t i o n o f R es u lt s w i t h Ch e m i ca l Re a g e nt s .

C
SE TIO N XXV .
— M ISCELLANEO U S TES TS IN DYEIN G .

Th e Am o u nt o fD y e st u f
f N e c e ss a r yf o r a F u ll Sh a d e
TO De t e rm i ne t h e D eg re e o f t h e Ex h a u s t i o n o f t h e Dye - b at h

To De t e rm i ne t h e Co rr e c t Am o u nt o f Mo rd a nt t o Us e
TO De t e rm i n e t h e De g re e o f Ex h au s t i o n o f the Mo rd a nt B at h .

To Sh o w th e Di ch ro i c P ro p ty
er f a Dy es t ufi o

Efi e c t Of D i ch ro i s m i n t h e p
Co m o u ndi n O f Sh a d e s g .

p
S a m le s —
(4 3 4 7 1 )
6
Qu i z 2 5 ( 7 09
 xii CO N TEN TS .

SE TC
IO N XX V I — . TE S TIN O TH E F AS TN Es s OF CO L ORS .

gF yd W00 1
,

1 6 6 Te st i n as t ne s s o f Co lo rs D e o n

1 6 7 Te s t i ng F as t ne ss o f Co t t o n Dy i g e n s .

Ta b u la t i o n o f F as t ne ss Re qu i re d o n V a ri o us C lass e s o f Ma
t e ri a ls
Ta b u la t i o n O f Te s t s fo r F as t ne ss Of Wo o l Dye s
Ta b u la t i o n o f Te s t s fo r F as t ness o f Co t t o n D y es

Q uiz 26 ( 71
—
7 7 58)

C
SE TION XX V II — AN . ALYS IS OF TEX TILE F A B CSRI .

To De t e rm i ne t h e Am o u nt o f Wo o l a nd Co tt o n in a Fa bi
r c

Ana l yi s s o f Fa b i C t i i g Si lk d C tt
r c o n a n n an o o n

Ana ly is s O fF b i C t i i g W l
a r c d S i lk
o n a n n oo an .

Ana ly is s O f F b i C t i i g W l S i lk
a r c o n a n n d C tt o o , , an o o n

Di s t i n c t i o n b tw T Si lk d A t i fi i l Si lk
e ee n ru e an r c a

To Di s t i n g i h b t w C tt
u s e d Li
ee n o o n an ne n

To Di s t i n g i h b tw T Si lk d T h Si lk
u s e ee n ru e an u ssa

Qui z 27 ( 7 59 -
7 7 0)

SE C TIO N X X V III .
—
AN ALY SS I OF TEXTIL E F A B CS
RI .

g
Est i m a t i o n o f Si z i n a nd D re ss i n M a t e ri a ls i n g a Fa bir c

g
Co nd i t i o ni n O f Te xt i le M at e ri a ls
Es t i m a t i o n O f O i l a n d G rease i n Fa ri cs b
De t e ct i o n o f M i ne ra l O i l i n Te xt i le Fa ri cs b
De t e ct io n O f Ro s i n O i l i n Text i le F a ri c s b .

Est i m a t i o n Of M i ne r a l M at t e r in a Fa bi r c

D e t e rm i nat i o n Of t he N a t u re o f Siz i n g o n a Fa bi r c

De t e rm i na t i o n o f t h e N a t u re o f M o rd a n t s o n Wo o le n Fa bir cs

D e t e rm i nat i o n Of t h e N at u re o f M o rd a n t s o n Co t t o n Fa bi
r cs .

Q u iz 2 8 ( —
7 7 791
1 )

AP P EN DIX .

U SEFUL D A A T FOR DYERS AND TEX TILE C HEM S TS I .

h y
H d ro m e t e rs
c
t Equ i v a le nt s O f Co m m o n Us e i n M e as u ri ng
u Th e rm o m e t r y
h- Co m p a ri so n o f R e la t i v e S t re ng t h s o f Ch e m i ca ls
I
U b
Ta le s Sh o wi g t h
n e g
S t re n t h s a nd D e ns i t i es Of V a rio us So lut i o ns

G Ta bl es fo r Calcu lat i o ns in D yig e n

L ab o r a t o ry M a nu a l o f Dy e i ng an d
Te x t i le Ch e m i s t ry

IN T R O D U C T O R Y .

1 . Appar a tu s R e qu i r e d In c arrying o u t t h e dy e t e s t s h e r e in
.
-

d e scrib e d i t will b e found conv e ni e n t t o e mploy sk e ins of wool

,

and silk w e ighing 5 grams and of co t t on 1 0 grams Th e d y e

'

.
,

b at hs should con t ain abou t 3 0 0 t o 40 0 cc of wat e r and should b e .

,
'

of porc e lain glass or e nam e l e d iron war e A good form of

, ,
—
.

e xp e rim e n t al d y e b a t h is t ha t shown in t h e illus t ra t ion (Fig

-
.

It consis t s of a round copp e r v e ss e l lin e d insid e wi t h asb e s t os and ,

provid e d wi t h a p e rfora t e d iron bo t t om It s t o p con t ains four .

op e nings t hrough which t h e d y e po t s ar e ins e r t e d This copp e r-

.

air b at h is plac e d on an iron s t and provid e d wi t h a gas burn e r

—
.

Th e d y e po t s ar e of porc e lain and a r e h e ld by b e v e l e d copp e r col

-

lars wi t h wood e n handl e s Th e air b at h i s so arrang e d t ha t W h e n

.
-

t h e d y e po t s ar e in posi t ion t h e y a r e rais e d abou t an inch abov e

-

t h e bo t t om pla t e Such a d y e b a t h a llows of a uniform h e a t ing

.
-

of t h e four po t s and t h e t e mp e ra t ur e may b e rais e d rapidly or

,

slowly at will by r e gulat ion of t h e gas flam e s and i t i s an e asy

, (
,

mat t e r t o bring t h e liquid in t h e po t s t o an ac t ive boil Th e r e .

a r e o t h e r forms of e xp e rim e n t a l d y e ba t hs in u se W h e r e solu t ions

-

of calci um chlorid e common sal t glyc e rin e t c ar e us e d for

,
-
, ,
.
,

h e at ing t h e d ye po t s St rong solut ions of calcium chlorid e ar e

-
.

c apabl e of b e ing h e at e d far abov e t h e boiling poin t of wat e r -

and conse qu e n t ly in such a b at h i t i s e asy t o bring t h e d y e po t s -

t o t h e boil B u t c alcium chlorid e solu t i ons a t t ack t h e b a t hs in

.

which t h e y ar e con t ain e d In cas e of copp e r v e ss e ls Wi t h sold e r e d

.
2 I
D YE N G AN D TEXTILE CHEM IS TR Y .

s e ams t h e sold e r is rapidly e at e n o ut and l e aks fr e qu e n t ly occur .

In a d ye bat h using a solu t ion of calcium chlorid e t h e s e ams

-

should b e braze d which mak e s t h e apparat us rat h e r e xp e nsiv e

, ,

an d e v e n t h e n t h e copp e r i t s e lf i s soon a tt ack e d Wi t h solu t ions .

F IG . 1 .
— Ex p e ri m e nt al D y e B a t h .

of common sal t i t i s di ffi cul t t o ob t ain a t e mp e rat ur e of 2 1 2 F

-
°
.

in t h e d y e po t s ; t hat i s t o bring t h e m t o a s t at e of ac t ive boiling

-
,
.

A t e mp e rat ur e of 2 1 0 F how e v e r can b e main t ain e d and

°
.
, , ,

probably t hi s i s n e ar e r t h e ac t u al t e mp e rat ur e of t h e op e n d ye
v at in prac t ic e ,
and giv e s as good r e sul t s as if t h e liquid was in
an ac t ual s t at e of e bulli t ion Solu t ions of common sal t are
.
-
 IN TR OD UC TO R Y
‘

p e rhaps t o b e pr e fe rr e d t o t ho se of c alciu mchlorid e as t h e y do ,

no t hav e as corroding an ac t ion on t h e copp e r d y e ba t h B y t he -

.

u se of glyc e rin in t h e b a t h a boiling t e mp e ra t ur e can r e adily b e

ob t ain e d in t h e d y e po t s b u t glyc e rin b at hs con t inually e mi t

-
,

disagr e e abl e vapors Wh e n e v e r possibl e b at hs con t aining such

.
,

solu t ions should b e h e at e d by a s t e am coil (wi t h s t e am und e r -

pr e ssur e ) ra t h e r t h an by dir e c t gas flam e s Th e gr e a t d i sad .

van t ag e O f all bat hs using solu t ions and o ne from which t h e ,

air b at h i s fr e e i s t hat t h e wa t e r i s cons t an t ly b e ing e vaporat e d

-
,

from t h e solu t ion and h as t o b e as cons t an t ly r e plac e d .

Wh e n dy e ing t h e t e s t sk e ins t h e y should b e sys t e mat ically

i

”
worke d or t urn e d in t h e d ye solu t ion This i s b e s t a e com
-
.

li h e d by susp e nding t h e sk e in in t h e b a t h from t wo glass rods

p s ,

and usi ng t h e s e from t im e t o t im e for t he purpos e of t urning t h e

sk e ins Th e s e glass rods should b e o ne four t h t o t hr e e e igh t hs
.
- -

inch in di am e t e r and 8 t o IO inch e s in l e ng t h Th e sk e ins

,
.
,

should b e t urn e d s u fli c i e nt ly t o insur e e ve n p e n e t rat ion of t h e

solu t ion t hrough t h e e n t ire por t ion of t h e mat e ri al .

Th e dy e s t u ffs and various ch e micals e mploy e d in carrying

o u t t h e d y e t e s t s should b e us e d in t h e form of solu t ions O f suc h
-

s t r e ng t h t hat small quan t i t i e s of t h e produc t s may b e m e asur e d o u t

in conve ni e n t volum e s As t h e amoun t of ma t e ri al b e ing dy e d
.

(5 or I O grams ) i s r e la t iv e ly small and as small

,
amoun t s of t h e

dy e st u ffs e t c ar e us e d i t would b e bo t h inconve ni e n t and

,
.
, ,

inaccurat e (unl e ss v e ry pr e cis e w e ighings w e r e mad e on e xp e n

siv e and accurat e b alanc e s ) t o We igh t h e ch e mic als e mploy e d in
e ach t e s t ; b u t by pr e paring solu t ions of d e fini t e s t r e ng t hs t h e

r e quir e d amoun t s may b e r e adily and accurat e ly m e asur e d off .

Th e prop e r pr e para t ion of t h e s e solu t ions will b e t ak e n up as

d e mand e d by t h e cours e of t h e e xp e rim e n t s For t h e m e asur e .

m e n t of t h e solu t ions a glass cylind e r gradua t e d in t o 1 0 0 cc i s .

v e ry conv e ni e n t ; t his r e adily p e rmi t s of t h e rat h e r accurat e

m e asur e m e n t of such quan t i t i e s as 5 cc 1 0 cc e t c In cas e s .
,
.
,
.

wh e r e v e ry minu t e quan t i t i e s ar e d e sir e d and i t i s n e c e ssary ,

1
t o m e asur e t o an accuracy of cc a small glass t ub e ( known
1 5 .
,

as Mohr s pip e t t e ) accurat ely graduat e d to 1 6 cc is v e ry us e ful

’ 1
. .
4 D YE N G AN D I TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

Th e s e pip e tt es may b e O b t ain e d in Si z e s holding 5 IO 2 5 , , ,

or 50 cc and by h ir
. t e u se e 1
volum s accurat e t o 3 5 cc may b e
, .

r e adily m e asur e d o u t A t h e rmom e t e r is also n e c e ssary for

.

u s e in t h e d y e t e s t s A good prac t ical and in e xp e nsi v e form

-
.
, ,

“
is t h e SO c all e d dai ry t h e rmom e t e r wi t h a pap e r scal e and
-

r e ad i ng t o 2 2 0 F B y t h e u s e of t h i s t h ermom e t e r t h e t e m
°
.

r at u re s of t h e d y e solu t ions or o t h er liquids

-
e mploy e d in
p e

t h e t e s t s may b e asc e r t ain e d An agat e cup (pin t or quar t si z e )

.

is a us e ful adj unc t for t h e pr e parat ion and mixing of t h e var ious
solu t ions n e e d e d A bunch of small t ags should also b e avail
.

abl e so t hat e v e ry sk e in wi t h which a t e s t has b e e n mad e may

*
b e prop e rly lab e ll e d for id e n t ifica t ion and r e fe r e nc e .

Th e fo llo wi ng is a li s t O f a p pa ra t u s s u p pli e d as an e q uip m e nt t o e ach

v i d u al s t u d e n t i n t h e d y e la b o rat o r y o f t h e Ph ila d elph i a Te x t i le S ch o o l:

b
O ne d ye - at h (fo r fo u r p o t s) .

F o u r p o rce lai n e a e rs b k ( 3 20
Fo u r co p p e r c o lla rs w
( ith w o o d e n h a ndles ) .

T w e lv e glas s ro d s i nch d i a m e t e r by 8 i nc h es i n le ngt h ) .

O ne d ai r y th e rm o m e t e r (t o 2 20
°
F) .

O ne g ra d ua t e d c li nd e r y ( 1 00
O n e Mo h r s p i p e t t e ( 1 0 di vi d e d i nt o t e nt h s )
’
cc . .

O ne a ga t e c u p ( pi nt ) .

O ne b u nc h t ags ( wi t h whi t e s t ri ngs ) .

6 D YE N G AN D I TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

wi t h t he acid solu t ion as t h e latt e r has b e e n n e u t rali z e d by t he

,

alkali b e for e drying .

Ex pe ri m e nt 2 A cti o n o f Or g ani c A ci ds o n Co tt o n
. Work a .

t e s t sk e i n of co tt on yarn in a ba t h con t aining 3 0 0 cc of wa t e r

- .

and 5 cc of ac e t ic acid for 2 0 minu t e s a t a t e mp e rat ur e of 1 60 F

.
°
.

Squ e e z e and dry wi t hou t was h ing T e st t h e s t r e ng t h of t h e dri e d

.

sk e in (6 ) and i t will b e found no t t o hav e b e com e much w e ak e n e d .

Ac e t ic acid i s a volat il e organic acid and on drying i s volat ili z e d

from t h e fibr e .

Ex pe ri m e n t 3 Ac ti o n o f Alk ali es
. B oil a sk e in of w o ol e n .

yarn t og e t h e r wi t h o ne of co t t on in a ba t h con t ai ning 3 00 cc of .

wa t e r and 1 0 cc of caust ic sod a solu t ion ( 60 T

. Th e wool will °

b e di sin t e grat e d and dissolv e d (7 ) Wash and dry t h e co t t on sk e i n

and i t will b e found no t t o b e appr eci ably al t e r e d R e p e at
t h e t e s t using 1 0 cc of a solu t ion of sodium c arbona t e ins t e ad o f
,
.

c aus t ic soda B oil for 2 0 minu t e s t h e n w ash and dry It will

.
,
.

b e found t ha t t h e wool has b e com e much w e ak e n e d a nd i s life

l e ss and dull in app e aranc e whil e t h e co t t on i s no t change d
R e p e at t h i s t e s t using 1 0 cc of a solu t ion of ammonium
,
.

c arbonat e ; boil for 2 0 mi nu t e s t h e n wash and dry It wi ll b e ,

.

no t ic e d t h at in t his cas e n e i t h e r t h e Wool ( 1 1 ) nor t h e co t t on ( 1 2 )

i s aff e c t e d in s t r e ng t h .

Ex pe ri m e n t 4 Ac ti o n o f Me t alli c Salts (Mor d an t s )

. B oil a .

sk e in of wool t og e t h e r wi t h o ne of co t t on for 2 0 minu t e s in a ba t h

C( n t a i ni ng 3 00 cc O f wa t e r and I O cc of chrom e solu t ion
.
,
R ins e
. .

wi t h fr e sh wa t e r Th e n boil t h e wool e n sk e i n t og e t h e r wi t h
.

ano t h e r of un t r e a t e d wool in a ba t h con t aining 3 00 cc O f wa t e r .

and 2 0 cc of a solu t ion of madd e r F inally wash w e ll and dry

. . .

It will b e found t ha t t h e un t r e a t e d sk e in ( 1 3 ) has n o t b ec om e

dy e d wh e r e as t hat t r e a t e d wi t h t h e chrom e has b e com e color e d
,

Tak e t h e co t t on sk e in which h as b e e n t r e a t e d wi t h t h e
chrom e and bo i l i t al so in a solu t ion con t ain i ng 3 0 0 cc of wat e r .

and 2 0 cc of madd e r solu t ion t h e n wash w e ll and dry

.
,
It
will b e found t h at t h e co t t on sk e in h as t ak e n up b u t ve ry li t t l e
dy e st u ff a s t his fibr e absorbs b u t a small amoun t O f t h e mordan t
, .

M add e r is a d ye which has no d i r e c t affini t y for t h e fibr e s b u t i t

‘

,
 CHE M I CAL S T UD Y OF TH E F I BRES .

forms a color lak e wi t h m e t allic sal t s such as chrome ; h e nc e t h e

-

unmordan t e d wool did no t b e come dy e d Du e t o t h e fac t t h at .

wool has a much gr e at e r a fli ni t y for m e t allic sal t s t h an co t t on ,

i t will b e no t ic e d t ha t t h e form e r fibr e i s dy e d much d e e p e r t han

t h e lat t e r .

Ex pe ri m e n t 5 Ac ti o n o f B l e a c h i ng Pow de r
. St e e p a sk e i n .

O f wool e n yarn t og e t h e r wi t h o ne of co t t on in a cold solu t ion of

bl e aching powd e r of abou t 2 Tw s t r e ng t h for 3 0 minu t e s Th e n

°
. .

pass in t o a cold bat h con t aining 3 0 0 cc of wat e r and 1 0 cc O f a . .

dilu t e solu t ion of hydroc h loric acid (t h e odor of what gas is no t ic e d

h e r e ) and work for IO m i nu t e s Th e n wash w e ll in fr e sh wa t e r
'

. .

It will b e found t hat t h e co tt on ( 1 6 ) has b e com e bl e ach e d b u t ,

t h at t h e wool ( 1 7 ) has acquir e d a d e e p e r y e llow t in t and i s harsh

'

in fe e l aft e r drying Th e wool has combin e d wi t h t h e chlorin e

.

O f t h e bl e aching powd e r in a ch e mical mann e r whil e t h e co t t on

h as no t ; t h e only e ffe c t in t h e lat t e r cas e b e ing t ha t t h e bl e aching ‘

liquor d e s t roys t h e coloring mat t e r nat urally pr e s e n t in t he co t t on

-
.

“ ”
Ne x t t ak e t h i s sk e in of chlorinat e d wool t og e t h e r wi t h a sk e in
,

o f un t r e at e d wool and d y e t h e m for 2 0 minu t e s at 1 60 F in a b at h °

.

con t aining 300 cc of wat e r and 5 cc of a solu t ion of Di amin e Sky

. .

“
B lu e ; wash and dry It will b e found t h at t h e chlorina t e d sk e in
.

( )
1 8 t ak e s up much mor e dy e s t u ff t han t h e o t h e r sk e in ( )
19 and
i s dy e d a d ark e r sh ad e N e xt t ak e por t ions of t h e s e t wo sk e i ns
.
,

and plai t t h e m t oge t h e r and s t e e p in a s mall quan t i t y of warm

soap solu t ion and rub vigorously b e t w ee n t h e hands t o imi t at e
t h e ac t ion of fulling or m i lling It will b e found t ha t t h e ordinary
.

wool (2 0 ) will r e adily fe l t t og e t h e r whil e t h e chlorinat e d wool (2 1 )

,

do e s no t .

NO TES .

1 . Act i o n o f Aci ds o n Wo o l an d Co tt o n Th e animal and .

v e ge t abl e fibr e s S how a mark e d con t ras t in t h e ir b e h avior wi t h

acids Wool absorbs min e r al acids (sulphuric hydr o c h loric and
.
, ,

ni t ric ) from solu t ion and unl e ss t h e acid is qui t e conc e n t rat e d
, ,

t h e fibr e i s no t d e compos e d Th e acid in t his cas e no doub t

.
, ,

combin e s ch e mically wi t h t h e wool on accoun t of t h e b a s i c nat ur e

of t his fi br e Thi s is e vid e nc e d by t h e fac t t hat wool which h as
.
8 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

b e e n t r e at e d wi t h acid will d ye wi t h acid coloring mat t e rs much -

b e t t e r t han ordinary wool Al so wh e n wool is t r e at e d wi t h a

.
,

solu t ion con t aining sulphuric acid and t h e n wash e d un t il t h e

wash wa t e rs a re n e u t ral t h e r e will s t i ll b e som e of t h e acid
,

r e maining in t h e wool Co t t on on t he o t h e r hand is rat h e r

.
, ,

e asily a ff e c t e d by solu t ions of t h e min e ral acids e sp e cially w h e n ,

such a solu t ion is allow e d t o dry in t o t h e fibre Co t t on do e s no t .

poss e ss any b asic quali t i e s and t h e r e for e do e s no t comb i n e ch e mi

,

cally wi t h t he acid t h e r e by n e u t rali z ing i t as in t he cas e of wool

, , .

Unl e ss e mploy e d in ve ry w e ak solu t ions all t he min e ral acids ,

hav e a t e nd e ring ac t i on on co tt on causing a disin t e gra t ion of t he

,

fibr e t hrough a br e aking down of t he c e llulose mole cul e of which

t h e co t t on is compos e d Th e compound of c e llulos e so form e d is
.

known as hy dra ted cellu lo s e an d is bri t t l e in nat ur e O n t his .

diffe r e nc e in t he r e ac t ion of wool and co t t on wi t h acids i s bas e d

“ ”
t h e proc e ss of carboni zing or s e parat ing v e ge t abl e fibr e s from
wool i n wove n fabrics or in shoddy wh e re i t i s d e sir e d t o r e cove r
t h e wool and e limina t e t h e co tt on O rganic acids ( such as .

formic ac e t ic oxal i c and t ar t aric ) do no t have t h e sam e t e n

, , ,

d e ring ac t ion on co t t on as t h e min e r al acids ; formic and ac e t i c

acids b e ing bo t h volat i le are r e mov e d from t h e fibr e on drying
, ,

and h e nc e do n o t injur e co t t on ; oxalic and t ar t aric acids on t h e ,

o t h e r hand are no t volat i le and if s t rong solu t ions are use d

, ,

s om e wha t t e nd e r t h e co t t on wh e n drying .

2
. Acti o n o f Alk al i es o n Wo ol and Co tt o n Alkali e s r e ac t .

w i t h t h e animal and v e g e t abl e fibr e s in jus t t h e opposi t e mann e r

t o ac i d s Caus t ic soda e v e n i n v e ry dilu t e solu t ions and a t no t
.
,

v e ry high t e mp e rat ur e s will compl e t e ly disin t e gra t e and dissolv e

,

t h e wool fibr e ; wh e r e as co t t on i s n o t a ffe c t e d Ev e n wi t h solu .

t ions of sodium c arbona t e (soda ash ) t h e wool fibr e w i ll b e

s e riously w e ak e n e d and inj ur e d in app e aran c e unl e ss such solu
t ions are comparat i v e ly w e ak and e mploy e d a t ra t h e r low t e m

p e r at u re s D u e t o t h e s e fac t s caus t ic soda canno t b e us e d for

.

t h e scouring of wool nor s h ould i t b e us e d in any conn e c t i on wi t h

,

wool Sod a ash wh e n e mploye d i n scouring or any o t h e r proc e ss

.

in con t ac t wi t h wool mus t b e car e fully h andl e d in ord e r t hat t h e

,
 CHEM I CAL S T UD Y OF TH E F I BRES .

solu t ion of t he sam e do e s no t b e com e t o o conc e n t ra t e d nor

h e a t e d t o o high Co t t on on t h e o t h e r hand i s scour e d by t h e
.
, ,

u se of boiling c aus t ic sod a or sod a ash wi t hou t fe ar of b e ing

injur e d Ammonium c arbona t e and ammoni a wa t e r are much

.

mild e r in t h e ir alkalin e ac t ion and do no t hav e any injurious e ff e c t

on wool a t ordinary conc e n t ra t ions on which accoun t t h e y mak e
,

v e ry good scouring compounds al t hough t o o e xp e nsiv e for t h e

,

majori t y of ma t e ri als .

3 A cti o n o f Me t all i c Salt s o n Wo o l an d Co t t o n

. Wool i s .

qui t e r e ac t ive t owards solu t ions of t h e majori t y of m e t allic sal t s ,

absorbing t h e most of t h e m from solu t ion and fixing t h e oxid e

of t h e m e t al in ch e mical combinat ion wi t h t h e fibr e Fo r .

inst anc e wh e n wool i s boil e d wi t h a dilu t e solu t ion of po t assi um

,

bichromat e (chrom e ) t h e lat t e r sal t b e com e s d e compos e d t o a con

,

s i d e r ab le e x t e n t and qui t e a propor t ion O f chromium oxid e b e com e s

ch e mic al ly combin e d wi t h t h e fibr e This fac t i s e vid e nc e d by

.

t h e wool showing t h e pr e s e nc e of t h e m e t all i c compound by i t s

color and by b e ing abl e t o form a color lak e wi t h c e r t ain d ye
-

st u ffs w h i ch will no t combin e dir e c t ly wi t h ordinary wool Co t t on .

,

on t he o t h e r h and has b u t ve ry sligh t a ffini t y for m e t allic sal t s

, ,

b e ing v e ry in e r t in t hi s conn e c t ion as t h e fibr e do e s no t app e ar

,

t o b e abl e t o absorb and fix t h e m e t allic oxid e as in t h e cas e o f

wool This ac t ion of wool wi t h m e t allic sal t s forms t h e basi s
.

of t h e op e rat ions of mo rda nti rt g wool pr e liminary t o t h e dy e ing

wi t h t h e al i z arin and o t h e r mordan t colors which r e quir e a bas e
of som e m e t all i c oxid e wi t h which t o form a color lak e ; and -

also d ue t o t h e in e r t ch arac t e r of co t t on t h is fibr e canno t b e

,

r e adily dy e d wi t h t h e se colors B l e achi ng powd e r h a s a p e culiar

.

ac t ion on wool ; t his ch e mical is a st rong oxidi z ing age n t and

in h o t solu t ions of any consid e rabl e conc e n t rat io n will rapidly
disin t e grat e t h e wool fibr e . In cold and dilu t e solu t ions ,

how e v e r a ch e mical combinat ion appar e n t ly t ak e s plac e b e t w e e n

,

t h e wool and t h e chlorin e e volv e d by t h e bl e aching powd e r ,

“ ” ”
giving a produc t known as chlor e d or chlorinat e d wool
wi t hou t much physical al t e rat ion of t h e fibr e Wool so t r e a t e d
.

e xhibi t s a much s t rong e r a f fi ni t y t owards many coloring ma t t e rs -

,
IO D YEI N G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

and almost compl e t e ly lose s i t s fe l t i ng prop e r t i e s and acquir e s ,

a h i g h e r lus t e r Co t t on do e s no t combin e wi t h t he chlorin e O f

.

t h e bl e aching powd e r b u t shows t h e s t rong oxidi z ing ac t ion of ,

t h e la t t e r in b e com i ng bl e ach e d This r e ac t ion is t h e basi s .

of t h e m e t hod of bl e aching co t t on ma t e ri als .

S AM P LES .

a
i w it h m in l id ; h w ing w k n
Co t to n t re a t e d e ra ac S o ea e ss .

W l t t d w it h id ; n t w k n d
s W l t t d wi t h id d dy d
o o re a e ac o ea e e .

o o re a e ac an e .

4 W l t t t d wi th id d dy d
o o no re a e ac an e .

5 C t t nt
. t d wi t h m i
o o l id t h
re a e t li d wi t h lk li ; ne ra ac ,
e n ne u ra ze an a a no t

w ea k d e ne .

6 C tt
. t t d wi th
o o ng i id ; t w k d
re a e o r a n c ac no ea e ne .

7 W 1 b il d wi th
. 00 ti o d ; di e l d ca u s c so a s so ve .

8 C t t n b il d w it h
. o o ti d ; n t ff t d
o e ca u s c so a o a ec e .

9 W 1 b il d wi t h S l t i
. 00 of d e h; m h i j d o u o n o so a as uc n u re .

1 0 C tt
. b il d wi t h l t i f d h ; n t fl t d
o o n o e so u o n o so a as o a ec e .

1 1 W l b il d wi t h l t i
. o o of mm i m
e b n t ; t i nj d
so u o n o a o n u ca r o a e no u re .

1 2 C tt
. b il d w i t h l t i n f mm i m b t ; n t fl t d
o o n o e so u o o a o n u ca r o na e o a ec e .

1 3 U m d nt d w l dy d w i t h m dd
. n o r a e oo e a er .

1 4 W l t
. t d with h m
o o re a e d dy d w i t h m d d c ro e an e a er .

C tt t t d with h m
o o n nd d y d w i t h m dd
re a e c ro e a e a er .

1 6 C tt n t
. t d w i th bl
o o hi g p wd ; b
re a e m bl h d eac n o er e co es ea c e .

1 7 W l t t d w i t h b l hing p w d ; b m y ll w i h
. o o rea e ea c o er e co es e o s .

1 8 Chl i
. t d w l dy d
o r na e oo e .

1 9 U hl i t d w l d y d f
. nc o r na e mp i n o o e o r co a r so .

20 U hl i t d w l f ll d w i t h
. nc o r na e p o o u e so a .

2 1 Chl i t d w l f ll d w i t h
. o r na e p oo u e so a .

Q U IZ
1 . Wha t i s t he ef
fe ct o f a llo wi g n a ci d so lut i o ns t o d ry i n t he co t to n fib re ?
Ho w do e s w oo l d iffe r i n t hi s re s p t ec ?

2 . Aft e r t re a t me nt w ith l t i so u o n s co nt a i ni n g no n - v o la t i le a ci d s , w hy s h o ul d
co tt o n b e ve r y th o ro u ghl y w h d b as e e fo re d r in ? y g
3 . Wha t i s t he d iffe re n ce i n t h e ch e m i ca l na t u re o f g
o r a ni c a n d m i ne ral
a ci d s ? Na m e s eve ra l re p re se nta t v e s i in e a ch cla ss .

4 . Why do so lu t i o n s o f a ce t i c a ci
d no t h av e t h e sa m e w k ea e nin g a cti o n o n

co t t o n as so lu t i o ns o f s ul ph u ri c a ci d ? Do e s o xa li c ac id b e h ave a ny d if
fe re n t ly fro m a ce t i c a ci d a nd wh y ? 0

5 . Why is it p re fera bl e t o u se a ce t i c a ci d in co nne ct i o n wi t h co t t o n ra t he r

t h an su l ph u r i c a ci d ?
 CHEM I CAL S T UD Y OF TH E F I BRES . II

6 . Do e s w o o l co b
m i ne i n a ch e m i ca l m a nne r w ith su l ph u ri c aci d ? Ho w
ca n th is b e sho w n ?
7 . If i t i s ne ce ssa r yt o t re a t co t to n wi t h a ci d so lu t i o ns , h o w ma y t h e i n j u

ri o ns e ffe ct s o f t he a ci d be p r e v e nt e d ?
8 . Wh a t i s t he a ct i o n o f d i lu t e so lu t i o ns o f ca u st i c so da o n w o o l? On
co tt o n ?

9 . Ca n w lb b o o e o ile d wi th so da a sh so lu t i o ns with o ut in j y?ur

b ili g l j i
~

IO . Do o n so u t i o n s o f s o da a sh have an y i n u r o u s a ct i o n o n co tt o n ?
1 1 Ho w d o so lu t i o n s o f a m m o ni u m b t ca r o na e r e a ct wi th w o o l a nd co t to n ?
1 2 . Why s h o u ld so a p s u se d in s co ur i ng w l b o o e free fro m ca u st i c a l a li k ?
1 3 . So lu t i o n s o f so da a sh are la r g ly d f
e u se o r sco u ri n gw oo l ; wh y sho u ld

no t su ch sco uri n gb ath s be u se d a t a b ili g t m p

o n e e ra t u re ?
1 4 . Wh a t i s m e a nt by a m o rda nt ?
1 5 . Wha t i s the a ct i o n o f so lu t i o ns o f p o t a s si u m bi ch ro mate o n w o o l?
p
Ex la i n t h e ch e mi ca l re a ct i o n wh i ch ta k pl es a ce .

Me t alli c wh w
'

1 6 . sa lt s o f at chara ct e r a re u se fu l as mo rda nt s fo r o o l?
Wh a t i s m e a nt by t h e
“
d i sso ci a t i o n
”
o fa sa lt ?
1 7 . Ho w do e s m o rd a nt e d w o o l r e a ct w it h a so lu t i o n o f ma dde r ?
1 8 . Ho w d o e s
.
co t t o n d i ffe r fro m w o o l in it s a ct i o n to w a rds so lut i o ns o f
m e t a lli c sa lt s ?
1 9 . Wh y a re co lo r i n gm -
a tt e rs em pl y o ed wi th a m e t a lli c mo rda nt mo re

u se fu l o n w o o l t ha n o n co t to n ?
20 . Wha t is bl e a chi n g p wd o er ? Wh i ch o f it s co m p
o ne nt s i s t he a ct i v e

bl e a chi n g g
a e nt ?
21 . Wh a t i s m e ant by a de g re e T w a d dle ? p
Ex la i n ho w de nsi t i e s a re

d e t e rm i ne d with a w ddl hyd

T a e ro me t e r .

22 . Th e o do r o f wh t g i na as s o t i ce d wh en t he so lu t i o n O f bl e ach i n g p wd o er

is b gh t
ro u in co nt t w i th h y d
ac ro ch lo ri c a ci d ? Gi v e t he ch e mi ca l re a c t i o n

ta k i g pl
n a ce .

2 3 . De s cri e t h e b g p wd l ti n w
ef l
fe ct oWhy n b
f le a ch i n o e r so u o ns o oo . ca

no t t hi bt b s su m pl y d f b l
s a n ce hi g w l ? e e o e o r eac n o o

4 Wh t i t h t i n f bl hi ng w d n tt n ? er o co o
2 . a
ps e ac o o e ac o

5 Wh t i m t by w l? H w d h w l diff r “ ”
2 . a hl i t d s e an c o r na e o o o o e s suc o o e

fro m di y w l i n i t b h i w i t h dy t fl ?
o r na r o o s e av o r es u s

2 6 Wh t ff t h
. tha hl i n t i n f w l n i t f lt i ng p p t i s ?
e ec as e c o r a o o oo o s e ro er e
 S ECT I ON II .

S CO URIN G TH E TEX TILE F IB REs .

Expe ri m e nt 6 . Sco u t i ng Raw Wo o l b y t h e Em ulsi o n Pr o cess .

We igh o ut grams of raw wool (2 2 ) and scour i t in a bat h

10

con t aining 300 cc of wat e r 5 grams of soda ash and 2 grams

.
, ,

of soap H av e t h e soap t horoughly di ssolv e d b e for e adding

.

i t t o t h e ba t h Work t h e wool g e n t ly a t 1 40 F for o ne h al f

.
°
.
-

hour or un t il i t s e e ms t horoug h ly cl e anse d Wash w e ll in fre sh

,
.

warm wat e r t o r e move all soapy liquor Dry (2 3 ) and r e w e i gh . .

“
C alcula t e t h e p e rc e n t ag e of loss or shrinkage In working .

t h e wool in t h e scouring ba t h car e should b e t ak e n n o t t o ag i t a t e

t h e fibr e s t o o vigorously or t h e wool w i ll b e com e ma t t e d or f e l t e d

t og e t h e r .

Ex pe ri m e nt 7 Us e o f Po t a s h i n Sc o u ri n g Wo o l
. Pr e par e .

a scouring bat h con t ai n i ng 3 00 cc of wa t e r 5 grams of p e arl ash .

,

( po t assium c arbona t e or po t as h ) and 2 grams of soap Scour , .

a Io gram sampl e of t h e sam e wool as use d abov e and proc e e d

-

in t h e sam e mann e r Wash w e ll in warm wat e r all ow t o dry (2 4 )

.
,

and r e w e i gh Compar e t he t wo sampl e s t h us scour e d by t h e

.

u s e of t h e t w o alkal i e s .

Ex pe ri m e nt 8 Effe c t o f Hi g h Te m pe r a tu r e s i n Sco u ri n g
. .

Use t h e sam e ba t h as e mploy e d in Ex p 6 and scour ano t h e r . .

IO gram sampl e of t h e sam e Ki n d of raw wool b u t br i ng t h e

-
,

b at h t o t h e bo i l for o ne h alf hour R i ns e as b e for e in

-
.

warm wa t e r and allow t o dry

,
R e w e igh and calculat e
t h e p e rc e n t ag e of loss and also compar e t h e g e n e ral app e ar
,
“ ”
anc e and fe e l of t h e wool wi t h t h at scour e d i n t h e firs t ‘

e xp e rim e n t .

Ex pe ri m e n t 9 Efl e c t o f Us i n g Ex c e s s i ve Alk ali i n Sco u ri n g R aw

.

Wo o l . Scour a I O gram sampl e of raw wool in a bat h con t ai n

-

ing 3 0 0 cc of wat e r and 2 0 grams of soda a s h Work for o n e

. .

I2
I4 D YE N G AN DI TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 4ri n g Co tt o n wi t h So a p
. Sco u Pr e par e a ba t h .

con t ain i ng 5 grams of soap and 3 00 cc of wat e r and boil a

'

.
,

w e i gh e d sk e in of co t t on yarn t h e r e in for o ne h alf hour Wash in -

.

fr e sh wat e r and dry R e w e igh and calculat e t he p e rc e n t

a ge o f loss .Compar e t his sk e in wi t h t h e o t h e rs of t h e above
e xp e rim e n t s .

Expe ri m e n t 1 5 Sco u ri n g Co tt o n wi t h F ankh au s i ne

. Pr e pare .

a bat h con t ain i ng 2 cc of F a nkh a u s i ne (50 pe r c e n t solu t ion ) and

.

3 0 0 c
. c of . wa t e r W ork a. sk e in of co t t on yarn in t his ba t h
for o ne half hour at 1 80 F t h e n wash and dry
- °
We igh
t h e sk e in b e for e and aft e r scouring and c alcula t e t h e p e rc e n t ag e
of loss Compar e t h e sk e in wi t h o t h e rs in t h e pr e vious e xpe ri
.

m e n t s as t o color soft n e ss of fe e l e t c
, ,
.

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 6 Sco ur i n g o f Ra w Si lk
. Th e fibr e prop e r of .

raw s i lk i s cov e r e d wi t h a glu e l i k e ma t e rial known as se ricin -

.

Th e pr e s e nc e of t his la t t e r subs t anc e mak e s raw silk harsh and

s t i ff and wi t hou t lus t r e B oiling soap solut ions r e move t h e se ricin
.

wi t h ou t affe c t ing t h e fibr e prop e r O f t h e Silk Th e scouring

“ ” “ “
O f s i lk is known as bo i ling o ff s t ripping or d e gum
-
, ,

m i ng . Th e silk will los e abou t 2 5 pe r c e n t in w e igh t i f com .

p l e t e ly boil e d o f f T ak e .a w e igh e d sk e in O f raw silk yarn (3 7 )

and boil i t for o ne hour in a solu t ion con t ai ning 2 50 cc of wat e r .

and 2 5 grams of o liv e O i l hard soap ; t h e n wash w e ll in fr e sh

'

warm wat e r and dry R e w e igh and c alcula t e t h e p e r

c e n t ag e of loss AS a rul e t o compl e t e ly d e gum t h e silk i t i s
.
,

n e c e ssary t o boil in s e ve ral soap bat h s No t ic e t h e di ffe r e nc e in .

“
t h e app e aranc e and handl e of t h e boil e d o ff silk St r e t ch and -
.

sque e z e t h e dri e d boil e d o ff sk e in so as t o soft e n up t h e fibr e

-

and lus t r e i t It w i ll b e found t ha t mos t of t h e coloring

mat t e r of t h e raw silk i s in t h e s e r i c i n and i s r e move d in t h e
bo i l i ng o ff The soap l i quor l e ft aft e r bo i l i ng O ff t h e s i lk is
- -

”
known as bo i l e d O ff liquor and i s us e d e x t e ns i v e ly as an addi
-
,

t ion t o t h e d y e ba t h in t h e g e n e ral dy e ing of s i lk

-
Th e soap .

e mploy e d for scour i ng silk should b e O f t h e b e s t quali t y and as

n e u t ral as possibl e .
 S C O UR I N G TH E TEXTILE F I BRES . 1 5

NOTES .

1 Im pu ri ti e s i n Raw Wo o l
. Th e raw wool fibr e as i t e xis t s
.

i n t h e fl e e c e con t a i ns a l arg e amoun t of nat ural impuri t i e s .

Th e s e are as follows :
a . G r e as e ,
or wool fat .

b . Suin t or dri e d u p p e rspira t ion

,
-
.

6 . Dir t consis t ing of dus t sand burrs

, , , ,
e tc .

It is obj e c t of scouring t o r e mov e t h e s e impuri t i e s and l e av e

t he

t h e fibr e pur e and cl e an wi t hou t ma t e rial inj ury t o i t s good

q uali t i es T h.e g re a s y ma t t e rs in t h e fl e e c e known as w o o l fa t ,
-
,

a r e insolubl e in wa t e r b u t a r e r e adily e mulsifi e d by solu t ions of

so aps or alkali e s Wool fat di ffe rs from mos t o t h e r animal fa t s

.
-

i n ch e mical cons t i t u t ion in t ha t t h e la t t e r ar e compounds of

various fat t y acids wi t h glyc e rin (and h e nc e are call e d glyceri des ) .

Th e s e rat h e r e asily r e ac t wi t h caus t ic alkali e s t o form solubl e

s o a ps a r e ac t ion which i s t e rm e d sa po nifica ti o rt Wool fat
,
.
-
,

how e v e r is no t a glyc e rid e b ut con t ains a subs t anc e known as

, ,

c h o le s t e ro l ( a body b e longing t o t h e g e n e ral class of alcohols ) ,

a nd do e s no t form soaps wi t h t h e c aus t ic alkali e s It do e s .

,

how e ve r form e mulsions wi t h mor e e as e t han do t h e o t h e r

,

a nimal fa t s and on t his accoun t i t is ra t h e r e asily r e mov e d from

,

t h e fibr e Th e s a i nt ( a Fr e nch word for sw e a t ) consis t s O f

.

v arious m e t a llic sal t s of organic acids such for ins t anc e as , , ,

po t assium ac e t a t e Th e s e sal t s a re soluble in wat e r and h e nc e

.

a re e asily r e mov e d in t h e scouring Th e misc e llan e ous di rt in

.

t h e wool is n o t solubl e in wa t e r and is simply m e chanically

r e mov e d by t h e ag i t a t i on of t h e wool in t h e proc e ss of scouring .

Th e amoun t of impuri t i e s in raw wool vari e s qui t e larg e ly wi t h

t h e charac t e r of t h e sh e e p and t h e locali t y in which t h e y a re
rown G n rally sp aking t h t o t al impuri t i e s may b e said t o
g e. e e e ,
'

vary from 50 t o 80 pe r c e n t of t h e w e igh t of t h e fl e e c e wi t h a

.
,

g e n e r al ave rage of abou t 6 5 pe r c e n t AS a rul e t h e fin e r t he .

,

s t apl e O f t h e wool t h e gr e a t e r amoun t of gr e as e i t will con t ain ;

,

wh e r e as in co ars e wools t he amoun t o f gr e as e is usually r e la t ive ly

16 D YEI N G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

much l e ss Th e loss in w e igh t t hat wool und e rgo e s on scouring

.

is t e rm e d i t s s h ri nkage and forms an impor t an t i t e m in judging

,

t h e valu e O f raw wools .

Th e ch e micals chi e fly e mploy e d in t h e usual m e t hod of scour

ing wool are soda ash (sodium carbona t e ) an d Soaps Po t ash .

( po t assi um c arbona t e ) is som e t im e s us e d b u t as i t is much mor e

,

e xp e nsive t han soda ash i t s u se i s mor e r e s t ric t e d M os t fre.

qu e n t ly a mix t ur e of soda ash and so ap is use d t he r e lat ive ,

amoun t s d e p e nding on t h e quali t y of t h e wool t o b e scour e d and

t h e amo un t and na t ur e of t h e impuri t i e s pr e s e n t As t h e wool
.

fibr e is rapidly inj ur e d by solu t ions of alkali e s a t high t e mp e ra

t ur e s t h e scouring of wool should b e carri e d o u t a t as low a
,

t e mp e ra t ur e as p e rmissibl e wi t h p e rfe c t r e moval of t h e impuri

t ie s
. Th e t e mp e rat ur e of t he scouring ba t h und e r ordinary
condi t ions should no t e xc e e d 1 40 F and in t he cas e of fin e
°
.
,

lus t r e wools t h e low e r t e mp e rat ur e of 1 00 t o 1 2 0 F i s use d

-
° °
. .

A t t e n t ion has alr e ady b e e n drawn t o t h e fac t t hat wool is e asily

’
inj ur e d by e ve n qui t e dilu t e solu t ion s of caus t ic alkali e s con ,

s e qu e n t ly t he pr e s e nc e of such is e sp e cially d e l e t e rious O n .

t his accoun t t h e soaps and o t h e r ingr e di e n t s us e d in t he scouring

,

solu t ions should b e fr e e from any v e ry appr e ci able amoun t of

c aus t ic alkali Aft e r r e moval from t h e soap solu t ion t h e scour e d
.
,

wool should b e t horoughly cl e anse d from alkali and soap by

washing in wat e r If t hi s i s no t don e t h e soap will dry in t o t h e
.

fi bre and subse qu e n t ly b e ve ry di ffi cul t t o prop e rly r e mo v e

,
.

Th e pr e s e nc e of soapy ma t t e rs in t h e wo o l l e ads t o many bad

e ff e c t s ; i t caus e s t h e produc t t o hav e a s t i cky and gr e asy f eel ,

produc e s un e ve nn e ss in dy e ing and w h e n broug h t in t o an acid

,

solu t ion ( as i s g e n e rally t h e cas e in t h e applica t ion O f most d y e

s t u ffs t o wool ) t he soap i s d e compos e d w i t h t h e lib e rat i on of fr e e
,
'

fat t y mat t e r in t h e fibr e which i s a v e ry O bj e c t ionabl e r e sul t

,
.

2
. Th e Emul si o n Pro ce ss of Sc ouri n g Th e ordinary proc e ss
.

of scouring wool by t h e u se O f solu t ions of soaps and al kali e s i s

call e d an e mulsion proc e ss on accou nt of t h e fac t t hat t he
soapy and alkal i n e liquors form an e mulsion wi t h t h e gr e asy
mat t e rs in t h e wool A dist inc t i on must b e mad e be t w e e n an
.
 S CO UR I N G '

TH E TEXTILE F I B RES . I7

e mu ls i o n and a s o lut i o n An e mulsion is an in t imat e mixt ur e of

.

gr e asy or 0 i mat t e rs wi t h wa t e r (or solu t ion of soap or alkali ) in

"

which t h e gr e as e e xis t s diss e mina t e d t hrou ghou t t h e mixt ur e in a

ve ry fin e ly divid e d s t at e ; usually in t h e form of minu t e globul e s .

Th e e mulsion is consid e r e d as p e rman e n t wh e n t he gr e asy

ma t t e rs do no t r e adily s e parat e from t he liquid in a dis t inc t
lay e r In a solu t ion on t h e o t h e r h and th e dissolve d subs t anc e
.
, ,

i s no t m e r e ly brok e n up in t o small par t icl e s and h e ld in s u s p e n

sion b u t i t s id e n t i t y b e com e s m e rg e d wi t h t h at of t h e liquid
,

solve n t It i s t o b e no t e d t hat t h e gr e asy ma tt e rs of t h e wool do

.

no t ac t ually pass in t o solu t ion b u t r e main fin e ly susp e nd e d as an

e mulsion and in cons e qu e nc e of t hi s may b e s e para t e d from t h e

,

scouring liquor by sui t abl e m e chanical t r e a t m e n t Th e suin t .

,

on t h e o t h e r hand pass e s i nt o so lu t i o n
, , .

3
. Us e o f Alk ali i n Sco u ri n g In adj us t ing t he amoun t of
.

a lka li ( soda ash ) t o b e us e d in scouring r e fe r e nc e mus t b e ,

had t o t h e quali t y and quan t i t y of impuri t y in t h e wool and ,

also t o t h e quali t y of t h e fibr e An e xc e ssive amo un t of alkali

.

mus t b e guard e d against as i t is li able t o inj ur e t h e lus t r e and

,

s t r e ng t h of t he fibr e and also t e nds t o discolor i t Th e fin e r t he

,
.

quali t y O f t h e fibr e as a rul e t h e l e ss t h e amoun t of alkali t hat

, , ,

should b e e mploy e d and t his i s e sp e ci ally t ru e O f lus t r e wools

,
-

and fine m e rinos Coars e r and low e r grad e wools are scour e d
.

wi t h a r e lat iv e ly larg e r amoun t of al kali It i s a mis t ak e t o pre .

sum e t hat t h e mor e dir t y and gr e asy t h e wool t h e mor e alkalin e ,

should b e t h e scouri ng liquors ; t his may b e t ru e wh e n r e fe r e nc e

i s had t o wools of abou t t he sam e quali t y b u t a v e ry dir t y and ,

gr e asy fine m e rino wool should b e scour e d wi t h le ss alkali t han

a compara t ive ly cl e an b u t low grad e Te rri t ory wool on accoun t
-
,

of t h e gr e at e r li abil i t y t o inj ur e t h e fibr e in t h e form e r cas e .

4 Th e Sco u ri n g o f Wo o l e n Ya rn As t h e impuri t i e s in wool e n

’

. .

yarn diffe r ve ry ma t e ri ally from t hose pr e s e n t in raw wool w e ,

would nat urally e xp e c t a di ffe r e nc e in t he mann e r of scouring .

Th e impuri t i e s in yarn in t he firs t plac e ar e much l e ss in amoun t

, , ,

varying from IO t o 2 0 pe r c e n t in ordinary wool e n yarns and .

,

from 2 t o 5 p e r c e n t wi t h most wors t e d yarns Th e charac t e r of

. .
1 8 I
D YE N G AN D TEXTILE CHEM IS TR Y .

t h e se impuri t i e s i s also d i ffe r e n t ; t h e y cons i s t of t h e O i l whic h

has b e e n add e d during t he spinning of t h e wool t oge t h e r wi t h t he ,

misc e llane ous dus t and dir t i t may have coll e c t e d passi ng t h roug h
t h e various machin e s in c arding and spinn i ng O i l is add e d t o .

wool for spinning in ord e r t o mak e t h e fibr e s mor e plas t ic and t o

pr e se rve t h e m from m e chanic al injury Such oil should b e .

capabl e of e asy r e moval from t h e spun yarn and should no t add

any d e l e t e rious subs t anc e t o t he wool For ins t anc e t h e oil .
,

should no t b e of a drying charac t e r as i t will form r e sinous ,

produc t s in t h e wool t h e pr e s e nc e of which would b e v e ry d i s ad

,

v ant a ge o u s ; fur t h e r t h e O i l should b e c apabl e of r e ady e mulsio n

,

so t hat no d i fli c u lt y may b e e xp e ri e nc e d in scouring t h e yarn .

Again t h e oil S hould b e fr ee from acidi t y as o t h e rwise i t would

, ,

a t t ack t h e c ard clo t hing and o t h e r m e t allic surfac e s wi t h whic h

t h e wool may com e in con t ac t no t only c ausing injury t o t h e
,

machin e s b u t also c ausing t h e wool t o b e com e impr e gnat e d wi t h

iron compounds which l e ads t o many d e fe c t s in subse qu e n t
’

scouring bl e aching and dy e ing O wing t o t h e fac t t hat t h e i m

, ,
.

puri t i e s i n yarn ar e of l e ss amoun t and also mor e e asily r e mov e d ,

i t is cus t omary t o e mploy r e la t iv e ly le ss alkali in scouring t h an i s

t h e c as e wi t h raw wool Wh e r e as in scouring t h e lat t e r sub
.
,

s t anc e t h e propor t ion of alkali is gr e at e r t han t hat of soap wi t h ,

yarn scouring t h e propor t ion i s just r e v e rs e d and mor e soap ,

t han alkali i s us e d ; and fur t h e rmor e t h e s t r e ng t h of t h e scourin g

liquors i s much diminish e d Th e e xac t composi t ion of t h e scour
.

ing b at h also in t h e case O f yarn must b e r e gula t e d wi t h r e fe r e nc e

, , ,

t o t h e amoun t of impuri t i e s in t h e fibr e as w e ll as t h e quali t y o f

t h e fibr e i t s e lf . Wors t e d (and high class yarns in ge n e ral ) con

-

t aining b u t li t t l e oil and dir t a re scour e d in compara t iv e ly w e a k

solu t ions con t ain i ng a good quali t y soap and a minimum amoun t
of alk al i (or in som e case s non e at all ) Wi t h low e r grad e and .

dir t i e r wool e n yarns t h e propor t ion of alkali i s incr e as e d Th e .

t e mp e ra t ur e of t h e scouring b a t h for yarn as wi t h t hat for raw ,

wool is g e n e rally abou t 1 40 F t hough wi t h fine lus t r e wool s

,
°
.
,
-

e v e n t h i s t e mp e ra t ur e i s consid e rably r e duc e d O ccasionally .

,

wi t h v e ry low grad e yarns such as coars e carp e t yarns (con t ainin g

,
 S CO UR I N G TH E TEXTILE F I BRES . 1 9

a vari e t y of crud e hair fibr e s such as goat and cow hair co ars e
, ,

c am e l hair mix e d wi t h j u t e and o t h e r v e g e t abl e fibr e s as w e ll as

, ,

larg e quan t i t i e s of infe rior gr e as e us e d in spinning ) t h e t e mp e ra ,

t ur e of t h e scouring liquor may b e much incr e as e d in som e c as e s ,

e v e n as high as t h e boiling poin t .

5. T h e Sc o u r i n g o f Y ar n s Co nt a i n i n g Ir o n In som e c as e s .

wool e n yarns are liabl e t o con t ain qui t e appr e ci abl e quan t i t i e s of ‘

iron Which may hav e b e e n d e rive d in a vari e t y of ways such as

, ,

rus t y c ards t h e u se of an acid oil in spinning con t aminat ion

, ,

wi t h t h e lubricat ing O i l on t h e machin e s e t c Such yarns are ,

.

usually of a d e e p grayish color and if scour e d in solu t ions con t ain

,

ing soda ash (or po t ash ) will usually com e from t h e scouring b at h
badly discolor e d by a y e llowi sh brown s t ain This is d u e t o t h e .

iron b e coming fixe d in t h e fi br e in t h e form of iron oxid e (iron

rust ) by r e ac t ion wi t h t h e alk ali Such yarn will e xhibi t s e rious
.

“ ”
d e fe c t s in subs e qu e n t dy e ing as t h e iron will ac t as a mordan t
,
“ ”
for man y coloring ma t t e rs and t e nds t o d ull or sadd e n t h e
-

color Y arn of t his charac t e r should b e scour e d in solu t ions

.

con t aining only soap Wi t hou t t h e addi t ion of any alkali so as t o ,

p e rmi t of t h e prop e r r e moval O f t h e iron rat h e r t h an i t s fixa t ion

in t h e fibr e .

6 Soaps for Sco u ri n g Wo o l

. A soap i s a combinat ion
.

b e t w e e n an alkali and a fat t y acid and i s produc e d by t h e ,

ac t ion of a c aus t ic alkali on an oil or fat Th e latt e r subs t anc e s .

( wh e t h e r of v e g e t abl e or animal origin ) are compounds of glyc e rin

wi t h various fat t y acids and by prop e r t r e at m e n t Wi t h c aus t ic
,

sod a or caus t ic po t as h ar e d e compos e d wi t h t he li b e rat ion of

~

lyc e rin and t h e format ion of a soap C aus t ic soda yi e lds h a rd

g .

soaps wh e r e as caus t ic po t ash giv e s s oft soaps Th e diffe r e n t O ils

,
.

and fat s nat urally furnish soaps of di ff e r e n t char ac t e ris t ics and
, , ,

som e soaps are mor e sui t abl e for scouring t han o t h e rs A good .

scouring soap should b e r e adily solubl e in wat e r and poss e ss high

e mulsifying pow e rs t owards gr e asy ma t t e rs ; i t S hould con t ain no

fat s which would a c t d e l e t e riously on t h e fibr e or l e av e i t wi t h

an obj e c t ionabl e odor or color Th e soap should fur t h e rmor e b e
.

c ap abl e of e asy r e moval from t h e wool aft e r scouring and no t ,

 20 D YEI N G AN D TEX TILE CHEMIS TR Y .

l e ave b e hind any r e sinous or fat t y ma t t e rs of an insolubl e char

ac t e r As alr e ady m e n t ion e d i t should also no t con t ain any
.
,

a ppr ec i abl e quan t i t y O f fr e e caus t ic al kali ; nor on t he o t h e r ,

hand should i t con t ain u ns a po ni fie d fat Soaps mad e from

,
.

O liv e oil ar e usually consid e r e d of t he high e s t grad e and t h e mos t

d e sirable for wool scouring ; al t hough soaps mad e from co t t on

se e d oil m a i z e oil fallo w ol e in e (t he liquid fat O b t ain e d as a
, , ,

b y produc t in candl e making ) and palm oil a re a lso e x t e ns i v e ly

- -
,

e mploy e d O ft e n mix e d so aps are use d such as oliv e or co t t on

.
,

s e e d O i l soap in combina t ion wi t h a t allow soap B o t h hard and .

soft s oaps are us e d t hough t h e lat t e r are g e n e rally pr e fe rr e d for

,

scouring raw wool as w e ll as yarn .

7 . R e l a ti o n o f W a t e r t o Wo o l Sc o uri n g Th e u se of t h e .

prop e r kind of wat e r in wool scouring bo t h for t h e pre p arat ion ,

of t h e scouring b at h and for t he washing O f t h e wool aft e r scour

ing i s a matt e r of consid e rabl e i mpor t an c e The u s e of ha rd
,
.

wat e r as such should b e in t e rdic t e d on accoun t of i t s bad ac t ion

, , ,
“ ”
wi t h soap solu t ions B y a hard wat e r is m e an t o ne con t aining
.

consid e rabl e amoun t s of dissolve d min e r al subs t anc e s usually ,

compounds of c alci um (lim e ) magne si um and som e t im e s iron , , .

Th e s e min e ral subs t anc e s in solu t ion combin e wi t h soap t o form

insoluble and st icky pr e cipi t a t e s which cause no t only a loss of ,

soap and a conse qu e n t d e cre ase in t h e scouring pow e r of t he

b at h b u t also t h e se pre cipi t at e s adh e r e t o t h e fibre and are
,
“
di ffi cul t of r e moval Som e t ime s t he hardn e ss of wat e r i s
.

r e movabl e by simply boiling ; i t i s t h e n t e rm e d te mp o ra ry ha rd

ne ss and i s princip a lly d u e t o t h e pr e s e nc e O f carbonic acid gas
,

holding calcium carbonat e (lim e s t on e ) in solu t ion O n boiling .

,

t h e c arbonic acid gas is driv e n O ff and in cons e qu e nc e t h e calcium

c arbonat e i s pre cipi t a t e d P e rma nent ha rdne s s on t he o t h e r
.
,

hand is no t r e movabl e by boiling and is chi e fly d u e t o t h e

, ,

pre s e nc e of calcium sulphat e (gypsum ) To r e move hardn e ss .

O f t his ch a rac t e r soda ash i s usually add e d su ffici e n t t o i i

p r e c p
t a t e t h e calcium compound as t h e highly insolubl e carbona t e .

O r small q uan t i t i e s of oxalic acid and ammon i a may b e add e d

, ,

which cause s t h e pr e cipi t at ion O f t h e l i me as calcium oxalat e .

22 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

so t hat i t will r e ad i ly w e t o u t b u t also t o compl e t e ly r e mov e

-
,

all r e si nous subs t anc e s o t h e rwise a good cl e ar w h i t e w i ll no t b e

,

O b t a i n e d in t h e bl e ac h i ng For t his purpos e i t is ge n e rally

.
,

n e c e ss ary t o boil t h e co tt on wi t h a so lu t ion of caus t ic sod a (or

o t h e r alkali e s ) for a numb e r of hour s and usually und e r mor e or
“ ”
l e ss pr e ssur e . T h i s O p e ra t i on i s t e rm e d boiling o u t t o di s -

“ ”
t i ngu i s h from m e r e w e t t i ng o u t In t h e scouring of co t t on
-
.

i t is probabl e t ha t t h e waxy and r e s i nous subs t anc e s in t h e

fibr e ar e e mulsifi e d or dissolv e d Caust ic soda i s probably t h e .

most g e n e rally e mploy e d ch e mic al for t h e sco u ring of co t t on ,

t hough soda ash and sodium sili ca t e ar e also e x t e nsiv e ly us e d .

O ft e n mix t ur e s of t h e s e t hr e e are e mploy e d Soap i s also an .

ef fi ci e n t m e d i um for w e t t ing o u t co tt on t hough i t app e ars t h a t

-
,

wh e n a v e ry t horough boiling o ut proc e ss i s r e quir e d a more -

s t rongly alkalin e age n t is d e sirabl e Form e rly li m e i (slake d in .

wat e r ) was e xt e nsive ly e mploy e d for boil i ng o u t co t t on pre -

l i m i nary t o bl e aching b u t i t s u se i s rapidly g i ving way t o t hat

,
“ ”
of c aus t ic soda Ce r t ain so calle d solubl e oils
.
-
(pr e p ar e d by
t r e a t ing cas t or o i l co t t on s e e d oil e t c
,
-
wi t h s t rong sulphuric ,
.
,
“ ”
acid and h e nc e also call e d sulph at e d O ils ) app e ar t o posse ss
,

t h e prop e r t y of quickly d i ssolving t h e w axy ma t t e rs from co tt on ,

and t h e s e a re som e t im e s us e d for t h e purpos e O f w e t t ing o u t of -

co t t on for dy e ing Th e y are also a t t im e s us e d in t h e proc e ss of

‘

boiling o u t F ankh a u si ne So lv i n e Monopol O i l e t c a re com

-
.
, , ,
.
,

pounds O f this ch arac t e r and consis t for t he mos t p ar t of sul

, , ,

p h a t e d v e g e t abl e O ils For . t h e purpos e of m e r e ly w e tt ing o u t i t -

i s prob ably b e tt e r t o u s e e i the r a solu t ion of soap or a solubl e

O il
,
rat h e r t han t h e al kali e s as t h e form e r m e t hod l e av e s t h e
,

co t t on som e what whi t e r in app e aranc e and soft e r in fe e l It i s .

prob abl e t hat wh e n boil e d wi t h solu t ions of caus t ic soda or soda

ash t h e r e sinous mat t e rs in t h e fibr e are d e compos e d wi t h t h e
format ion of brown coloring mat t e rs and as a r e sul t t h e co t t on
-
,

has a dar k e r color t han wh e n t r e at e d wi t h soap or oil .

9 . Th e Im pu ri t i e s i n R aw Silk R aw silk as i t app e ars in.

,

t rad e do e s no t much r e s e mbl e t h e brillian t and lus t rous fibr e

,

s e e n in m anu fac t t i r e d silk fabrics R aw silk consis t s no t only .

 S CO UR I N G TH E TEX TILE F I BRES . 2 3

of t h e fibr e prop e r b u t also of a large amoun t of a glu e lik e sub

,
-

s t anc e which h e avily coat s t h e fibr e and giv e s i t a harsh bri t t l e ,

fe e l and hid e s t h e lust r e and w h i t e n e ss of t h e t ru e fibre Thi s .

subs t anc e i s kn own as s i lk glu e or s e ri ci n and i t amoun t s t o

-
,

abou t 2 5 p e r c e n t O f t h e w e igh t O f t h e raw s i lk It i s solubl e i n

. .
‘

wa t e r and may ind e e d b e compl e t e ly r e mov e d from t h e fibr e

,

by prolong e d boiling It is how e v e r mor e r e ad i ly r e move d b y

.
, ,

s t rong solu t ions of soap and t his i s t h e usual m e t hod e mploy e d

, .

Th e fibr e prop e r of silk is known as fib r o i n and t h ough v e ry ,

sim i lar in c h e mic al composi t ion t o s e ricin i t i s insolubl e i n ,

wa t e r or soap solu t ions Th e most of t h e coloring ma tt e r

.
-

in raw silk is also con t ain e d in t h e si lk glu e and i s r e move d -

along wi t h t hi s lat t e r sub s t anc e Ce r t ain raw silks (y e llow gu m .

-

I t ali an for inst anc e ) ar e of a d e e p y e llow color b u t wh e n com ,

p l e t e ly s t ripp e d of silk glu e t h

-
e y b e com e as wh i t e as o t h e r silks .

10 . Th e B o i lin g -O H o f Silk Th e scouring of raw silk or t h e

.
,
“ ”
r e moval from i t O f t h e silk glu e is usually t e rm e d boiling O ff
-
,
—
,
” “ ”
t hough t h e e xpr e ssions d e gumming and s t ripping ar e
also us e d Wh e n compl e t e ly boil e d o ff s i lk w i ll los e in w e igh t
.
—

from 2 2 t o 2 8 p e r c e n t Fr e qu e n t ly how e ve r all of t h e silk

.
, ,

glu e i s no t r e mov e d b u t only su ffi ci e n t t o mak e i t sof t and

,

lus t rous and workabl e in dy e ing or bl e aching Und e r t h e s e .

circums t anc e s t h e scouring of silk is t e rm e d s o u p li ng and

‘

, ,

only from I O t o I 5 p e r c e n t in w e igh t is los t Fur t h e rmor e . .

,

raw s i lk is som e t im e s give n only a v e ry slig h t scouring for t he

purpos e of sof t e ning t h e fibr e ; t his give s what is call e d écru
‘
silk and only 2 t o 5 pe r c e n t in w e igh t of t h e silk glu e i s r e mov e d
,
.
-
.

Th e scouring of silk is almos t invari ably accomplish e d by t h e u s e

of b oiling solu t ions of soap Th e l e ng t h O f t im e and t h e numb e r
.

of so ap i ngs giv e n will d e t e rmi ne how much of t h e s e ricin will

b e r e mov e d . For a compl e t e boiling O ff a s t rong soap solu t ion i s -

n e c e ssary (abou t o ne pound of soap p e r gallon ) and t h e t im e ,

r e quir e d is from I t o 2 hours and t his t r e a t m e n t is usually ,

r e p e at e d wi t h a s e cond soap solu t ion Th e soap e mploy e d fo r .

t h e scouring of silk should b e of t h e v e ry b e s t quali t y and should ,

b e as n e u t ral as possible Th e pr e s e nc e of any appr e ci abl e

.
24 D YEIN G '

AN D TEXTILE CHEM IS TR Y .

fr ee alkali in t he scouring bat h will rapidly injure t he S ilk fi br e ,

causing i t t o b e come w e ak e n e d di scolor e d and lus t r e l e ss , ,

.

G e n e rally t h e b e s t grad e of hard O liv e O i l soap is us e d ; soft

,

soaps ar e no t e mploye d b e caus e t h e s e are n e arly always liabl e t o

con t ain small quan t i t i e s of fr e e alkali Th e scouring b at hs l e ft .

aft e r t h e boiling o ff of silk (and usually r e p e at e d lo t s of raw

-

silk a re scour e d in t h e same soap solu t ion ) con t ain a larg e

quan t i t y of silk glu e t oge t h e r wi t h t h e soap e mploy e d Th e s e
-
.

r e sidual bat hs a re known as b o i le d 017 li qu o rs and are e x t e n -

s i v e ly us e d as an adjunc t in t h e dy e ing of silk b e ing add e d in ,

consid e rabl e amoun t t o t h e d ye bat h for t h e purpose of sof t e nin g -

t h e dy e d silk and promo t ing t h e e v e n dis t ribu t ion of t h e color .

Aft e r t h e silk has b e e n scoure d or boil e d o ff i t S hould b e t hor -

oughly wash e d wi t h wa t e r in ord e r t o r e move all t rac e of soapy

liquor o t h e rwis e t he soap wi ll dry in t o t he fibr e and cause dis
,

colorat ions and imp e rfe c t ions Aft e r t he scoure d silk i s dri e d .
,

in ord e r t o soft e n t h e fibr e and t o give i t incr e ase d lus t r e i t i s ,

s t r e t ch e d or st e am e d This i s me r e ly a m e chanical t re a t m e n t
.

which loose ns up t h e fine and d e licat e filame n t s of t h e Silk fibr e

which hav e b e com e mor e or l es s mat t e d t oge t h e r in t he scouring
and drying .

S AM P LES .

22 . Ra w w oo l i n th e g re ase .

2 3 . Wo o l sco u re d w i t h so a p a nd so da a sh .

24 . Wo o l s co ure d w i th so ap a nd po ta sh .

25 . Wo o l sco u re d a t a bo ilin g t e m pe ra t u re .

26 . Wo o l sco u re d w i th e x ce ssi ve alk ali .

27 . Wo o le n yarn i n t he gre a se .

28 . Wo o le n yarn sco ure d .

29 . Wo o le n yarn co nta i ni ng i ro n i n t he grea se .

30 . Wo o le n yarn co nta i ni ng i ro n s co u re d w i th so da a sh .

31 . Wo o le n ya rn co nta i ni ng i ro n s co ure d w i t h so a p a lo ne .

32 . Co tt o n y n; n ar u sco u re d .

33 . Co tt
o n y n ar sco u re d wi th ti ca u s c so da .

34 . Co tt
o n y n ar sco u re d wi th d h
so a as .

35 . Co tt
o n y n ar sco u re d w i th p so a .

36 . Co tt
o n y n ar s co u re d w i t h F kh an a u si
p
e .

37 . Ra w ilk i t h g
s n e um .

38 . Bo il d ff ilk
e -
o s .

39 . Bo il d ff i lk ft
e -
o S a e r s t re t chi n g .
 S CO UR IN G TH E TEX TILE F I BRES . 25

R EC O R D O F R ESULT S .

We i gh t b e fo We i gh t aft e r
T est .

s c o ur mg .
re

s co ur n i g .

Q U IZ 2 .

2 7 . De scri b e th e g e ne ra l c h ara ct e r o f t he di ffe re nt i m p uri t i e s e x i s t i n g in

ra w w oo l
.

Ho w do e s wo o l gre a se d iffe r fro m o t h e r

28 . a ni m a l fa t s i n i t s ch e m i ca l
co m po si t i o n ? Ho w do e s wo o l grea se re a ct w i t h w k
a t e r a nd a l a li ne o r so a p
so lu t i o n s ?

29 . Wh at is sui nt a nd o f wh at do es it , co n s i s t ? Is i t so lu leb o r b
i nso lu le i n
w a ter ?
30 . Wh at pl y d i n t h l m th d f w l
ch e m i ca ls a re e m i g? o e e u su a e o o o o s co ur n

At w h t t m p ta i th e i g p ti
e ra u re d t d?s e sco u r n O e ra o n co n uc e

3 Wh y i i t
1 y th t t hs p nd lk li mpl y d i w l
ne ce s sa r a i ng e so a a a a e o e n o o s co u r

sh ld b o u f p i bl f m
e as ti
re e as lk li ? o ss e ro ca u s c a a

3 Why i i t
2 . y t w h t h w l t h ghly ft
s ne ce ssa r i g o d as e o o o ro u a e r sco u r n ,
an

why i w m w t s m pl y d ?
ar a er e o e

33 Wh t p nt g f i m p i t i i p
. a e r ce t i aw w l ? I thi
e o m t
ur es s re s e n n ra o o s s a o un

at ll a t nt f d iff
co n s at w l ? H w d o r th m nt f g
e re n i fi o o s o o es e a o u o re a se n ne

w l m p w i th t h t p
o o s co t i
are w l? a r e se n n co a r se o o s

34 W t i m nt by t h h i nk g f w w l ? Why i i t i m p t t f
. ha s ea e S r a e o ra o o s o r an o r

th we lb y t k n w t hi f t
oo u er ? o o s ac o r

35 B d . th q a setiti gi n i n t h t t h w m ny p d f p
o n e u an es ve e es ,
o a o un s o so a

an d d h w ld b
so a as q i d t p p
o u i ng b t h t
e re i ni ng
u re o re a re a sco ur a co n a 1 000

g ll n f w t ?
a o s o a er
26 D YE I N G AN D TEX TIL E CHEM IS TR Y .

36 . Wh at is po ta s h ? Why is its u se fo r w o o l s co uri n g re co m me nde d i n

pl a ce o f so da as h ? Ho w d i d y o u r re s ult s in s co u ri n g wi t h t h e two co m p a re ?
37 . Wh y is w o o l no t s co u re d at p
t e m e ra t ur e s a b o ve
4 1 0
°
F ? . Wha t is
t he fe ct o
ef f s co u ri n g at t he b o il ? Ho w d o e s t h e sa m pl f w e o oo l s co ure d a t t he
b o il co m p are wi th sa m pl e s sco u re d a t lo w er p
t e m e ra t u re s ?

38 . Wh a t i s t he fe ct
ef o f e m lo i n p y g a n e x ce ss i v e a m o u n t O f a l ali k i n the
s co u ri n gb ath

39 . Ho w do e s t h e g e ne ra l me t h o d o f sco u ri n gw oo y
le n a rn d i ffe r fro m t h at
O f s co u ri n g ra w w oo l wi t h re s p e ct to t he re la t i v e p p ro o rt io ns o f so a p a nd

k
a l a li ?
40 b th g n l t
. D e s cri f t h i mp i t i
e e e i w l n y n
e ra Why
na u re o e ur es n oo e ar . Is

w l il d i n p i
oo o i g nd w h t h ld b t h
e s nn n h ,
t a f th il m pl y d ? a s o u e e c ara c e r o e o s e o e

4 Wh y i
1 . m w l y li bl t nt i n i i t h g
s so e oo en ? H w a rn a e o co a ro n n e rea se o

sh ld y n f t hi
o u har t ob d ? Why h ld
s c d
ara c e r h t b e s co ur e s o u so a as no e

em pl y d ? o e

4 Wh t i t h g n l t
2 . a s f t h i m p i ti
e e i ti g in
e ra w tt n ?
n a u re o e ur es ex s n ra co o

Wh t i t h ia sg m nt ? e r a v e ra e a o u

43 Why i i t n
. yt s tt n b f dy i g
e ces sa r bl hi ng ? I o s co u r co o e o re e n o r ea c s a

p i i g
re v o u s s co u r n lw y q i d b f d y ai g ? a s re u re e o re e n

44 H w d . th w t t i g t d iff f m t h b i li g t f tt n ?
o o es e
“
e n -
o u
”
er ro e
“
o n -
o u
”
o co o

45 Wh t i t h g
. l p i i pl i
a s l d in t h
e e ne ra i ng f t t n ? Wh t r nc e nv o v e e s co ur O co o a

ch mi l m y b
e mp l y d f t h i p p
ca s a e e ? o e o r s u r o se

4 6 G i . m p i f t
v e a coh lt b t i d i n t h
a r so n Ob ili g — t f tt n e re s u s O a ne e o n o u o co o

w i th ti d
ca u s d h c so d p Ab t h w m h d
a , so a as tt n l
, in
an so a . o u o uc o e s co o o se

w i gh t by b i li g
e t? o n -
o u

47 Wh t i F kh i ? H w d
. a s it
an t in th a u s ne i g f tt n ? o o es ac e s co u r n o co o

H w d o t t n b il d
o e s co t w i th F o kh i o mp e w i t h t h t b il d t
-
o u an a u s ne co a re a o e -
o u

w i t h lk li ? a a es

4 8 Wh t . bt a p su t in w ilk ? In w h t
s a n ce s a re l ti m nt re se n ra S a re a ve a o u s

d o t he se e x i st ?
49 . Ho w do e s se ri ci n d i ffe r fro m fib ro i n ? Ho w do e s ra w s i l k d iffe r i n i t s

g e ne ra l a pp e a ra nce fro m b o i led -

o ff s i l ? k
50 .
'

Wh at su b s t a n ce is re m o ve d i n t he s co u ri n g o f si l ? k By wh t a d if
fe re nt na m e s i s t he s co uri n g o f si l k k wn ? no Ho w m u ch do e s s ilk l o se in
w e i ht g by g? s co u ri n

5 H w i t h b ili ng ff f ilk
1 o d t ds Wh t h m i l
e o m pl y d -
o O s co n uc e a c e ca s a re e o e

and t wh t t m p a t ? a e e ra u re

5 Wh t k i d f
2 . p h ld b mpl y d f b ili ng ff ilk ? Why
a n o so a s o u e e o e or o —o s

sh ld t h
o u pb n t l p i bl ?
e so a e as eu ra as o ss e

5 3 Wh t t gt h f p l t i i mpl y d f b ili g E ilk ? O n

. a s re n O so a so u o n s e o e o r o n -
O S

th b i e f t h fig g
as s oi n i n t h p i m t
e h w m y p n d
u re s f p ve e ex er en ,
o an o u s O so a

w ld b q i d t m ak p
o u e re g ll f li q
u re f i g i lk ?
o e u 1 00 a o ns o uo r o r sco u r n s
 S C O UR I N G TH E TEX TILE F I BRES . 27

54 . What i s t h e di ffe re nce b e t wee n

“
é cr u ,
” “
so u pl d
e ,
a nd
“
bo il d
e -
O E
si l k?
55 . Do e s t h e co m le t ep re m o v al o f t h e si l kg um fro m raw si l kg e ne ra ll yt k a e

pl ace in a si n gl e sco uri n gb at h ?

56 . Ho w i s t he bo i le d -o ff si l k so ft e ne d a nd lu st re d ? In wh a t co n st i t u e nt

o f raw si l k do e s t h e na t ura l co lo ri n gm
-
at t er p i n i p lly
r c a o ccur , a nd i s it re mo ve d

i n t he b o i li n g -
O E
57 . Wh at i s me a nt by b “
o ile d f
Of
-
li q uo r Of wh at do e s i t co nsi st ? Fo r

wh t p p
a u r o se is it e mpl y d ?
o e
 S ECT I ON III .

B LEACHIN G OF WOO L .

Expe ri m e nt 1 7 . B le a ch i n g Wo o l
Tak e a w e ll b y Ti n ti ng .
—

scour e d t e s t sk e in of wool e n yarn

-
and work in a luk e
warm ba t h con t aining a t rac e of oxalic acid and a t rac e of
Acid Viol e t 2 B (abou t why p e r c e n t on t he w e igh t of t h e wool .

will as a rul e b e a mple dye s t u ff) Tak e gr e a t car e no t t o add .

t o o much of t h e coloring ma tt e r o t h e rwis e t o o dis t inc t a color

-
,

will b e impar t e d t o t h e wool Aft e r t in t ing squ e e z e and dry

.
,

It wi ll b e found t ha t t h e V iol e t coloring ma t t e r has n e u t rali z e d t h e -

y e llowi sh t in t of t h e wool so t hat t he mat e ri al se e ms whi t e r t h an

,

b e for e To show t he sam e op e rat ion on co t t on t ak e a t e st

.
,

sk e in of co tt on yarn (4 2 ) which has b e e n w e ll scoure d o u t wi t h

2 p e r c e n t of M onopol Soap and work i t in a dilu t e luk e warm
.
,
1
soap ba t h con t aining a t rac e (abou t 2 11 11 pe r c e n t on t he w e igh t .

of t h e co t t on ) of Me t hyl Viol e t 5 B T h e n squ e e ze and dry .

It will b e found t ha t as wi t h t h e wool t h e sk e in of co t t on will

, ,

app e ar whi t e r aft e r t in t ing owing t o t he fac t t hat t h e viol e t blu e

,
-

color has d e s t roy e d t he y e llowish color of t h e nat ural fibre .

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 8 B l e a c h i n g W0 0 1 wi t h Su lph u r o u s Aci d Ga s
. .

Tak e a sk e in of w e ll scour e d wool e n yarn w e t i t o u t in wa t e r

-
, ,

t h e n squ e e ze i t so t ha t t h e wool is l e ft only mois t ; plac e i t in a

comp ar t m e n t fill e d wi t h sulphurous acid gas for 1 2 t o 2 4 hours .

Th e n wash w e ll in wa t e r and t h e n in a bat h con t aining a t r ac e

,

of oxalic acid and Acid Viol e t for t in t ing

Ex p e ri m e n t 1 9 B le a c hi n g W00 1 wi t h So di um B i sulphi t e
. .

Pr e par e a ba t h con t aining 3 00 cc of wa t e r an d 1 0 cc of sodium . .

bisulphi t e solu t ion (3 2 Imm e rs e t wo w e ll scour e d sk e ins

° -

of wool e n yarn in t his bat h work w e ll for abou t I 5 minu t e s , ,

t h e n allow t o soak for 1 2 t o 2 4 hours Th e n squ e e z e and work .

in a b at h con t ain i ng 5 p e r c e n t of sulphuric acid (on t h e w e igh t

.

28
3 0 I
D YE N G A N D TEX TILE CHEMIS TR Y
hours mai n t ai n i ng t h e t e mp e ra t ur e as n e arly as possible a t abou t
,

1 00 F during t hat t im e
0
. Th e n wash w e ll and squ e e z e and
.
,

finally t i n t i n a bat h con t aining a t rac e of oxalic ac i d and Acid

Viole t Th e n squ e e z e and dry
.

Ex pe ri m e n t 2 1 B l e a c h i ng W0 0 1 wi t h Po t a ssi u m P e rman ga
.

na t e .Pr e pare a bat h con t ai n i ng 3 00 cc of wat e r and gram .

of po t assium p e rmangana t e and 5 pe r c e n t (on t h e w e igh t of .

t h e wool ) of sulphuric acid Warm t he ba t h t o 1 00 F and

.
°
.
,

s t e e p a w e ll scour e d sk e in of woole n yarn t h e r e in for abou t

-

minu t e s working during t hat t im e Th e n rins e and i t will b e

5 ,
.
,

found t hat t h e wool has b e com e brown in color t his is d u e

t o t h e pr e cipi t a t ion of hydra t e d oxid e of mangan e s e on t h e fibr e ,

r e sul t ing from t h e d e composi t ion of t h e po t assium p e rmangan a t e .

Ne x t work t h e sk e in in a cold b at h con t aining 3 00 cc of wa t e r .

and 2 cc of sodium bis ul phi t e solu t ion (of 3 2

. Th e wool °

wi ll rapidly t urn whi t e as t h e brown d e posi t of mangan e s e

oxid e is dissolv e d by t h e bisulphi t e of soda .

NO TES .

1 . B le a c h in g Wo o l . Th e
wool fibr e in i t s nat ural condi t ion
always con t ains som e pigm e n t mat t e r ; e ve n t he usual so calle d -

”
whi t e wool con t ai ns a small amoun t of a y e llowish brown colo r
which i t is n e c e ssary t o r e move in ord e r t o hav e a fibr e posse ssing
a cl e ar whi t e color In som e grad e s of wool t h e amoun t of
.

pigm e n t mat t e r may b e compara t ive ly large giving t h e brown or ,

black wools Th e se wools how e ve r are small in amoun t com

.
, ,

par e d wi t h t h e whi t e wools and a re s e ldom if e ve r bl e ach e d , ,

.

Th e m e t hod of bl e aching wool by t h e t in t ing proc e ss d e scrib e d

in Ex p 1 7 d e p e nds on t h e n e u t rali z at ion of t h e sl i gh t y e llow t in t
.

of t h e nat ur al wool by dy e ing t h e fi br e wi t h a d e licat e t in t of

blu e or viol e t coloring ma tt e r It is no t r e ally a r e moval or
-
.

d e s t ruc t ion of t h e na t ural pigm e n t b u t simply a chang e of t he ,

y e llow t in t t o o ne O f a grayish t on e Th e latt e r b e ing l e ss sus .

c e p t i b le t o t h e e e c aus e s t h e wool t o
y app e ar whi t e T h e color .

r e lat ions in t h e cas e are b as e d on t he fac t t hat y e llow and viol e t

a r e compl e m e n t ary colors so t ha t wh e n mix e d in small amoun t
,
 BLEACH I N G OF WOO L .
3 1

t hey produc e gray For t h e t in t ing color i t is b e s t t o u s e a blu e

.

dy e s t u ff wi t h a Sligh t viol e t t on e such as a v e ry blu e t on e of

,

Acid Viole t O xalic acid is us e d wi t h t he dy e st u ff t o r e nd e r t h e

.

s olu t ion sligh t ly acid and t hus d e v e lop t h e color Th e ac t ual

.

a moun t of color r e quir e d i s v e ry small and car e mus t b e e x e rcis e d

n o t t o ov e r t in t t h e wool or a bluis h t on e will b e O b t ain e d

,
Wool .

bl e ach e d in t h is mann e r of cours e will no t poss e ss as cl e ar a

, ,
.

whi t e color as t hat in which t h e nat ural pigm e n t i s ac t ually

d e st roy e d ; i t will only give a dull cloudy looking whi t e
,
-
.

Sulphurous acid or o ne of i t s compounds is t h e ag e n t mos t ly

, ,

e mploy e d for t h e t ru e bl e aching of wool Sulphurous acid is a

.

“ ”
s t rong r e duc i ng ag e n t ; t ha t is t o say i t has a s t rong
,
affi ni t y
for oxyg e n . Wh e n ac t ing on many organic color i ng mat t e rs -

“ ”
( such as t h e na t ural pigm e n t in wool ) i t r e duc e s t h e m t hus ,

c ausing t h e m t o b e conv e r t e d in t o colorl e ss sub st an c e s M an y .

coloring ma tt e rs how e v e r aft e r b e ing t hus r e duc e d ar e c apabl e

-
, , ,

O f b e coming oxidi z e d on e xposur e t o air SO as t o yi e ld again t h e

original color ; t hi s app e ars t o b e t h e c as e wi t h t h e coloring mat t e r -

in wool for wh e n bl e ach e d wi t h sulphurous acid t h e y e llow t in t

,

b e com e s gradually r e s t or e d on e xposur e t o t h e air .

B l e aching by t h e u se of sulphurous acid gas is t h e m e t hod

most ly prac t ic e d for t h e bl e aching of wool Th e proc e ss i s .

rat h e r simpl e ; t h e wool (e i t h e r in loose s t at e yarn or clo t h ) i s

, ,

m ois t e n e d and spr e ad o u t or hung i n a room wh e r e i t i s subj e c t e d

t o t h e ac t ion of t h e sulphuro us acid gas for 1 0 t o 2 0 hours Th e .

gas i s produc e d g e n e rally by t he burning O f sulphur in an iron

o r e ar t h e nwar e t som t im s in t h bl aching room i t s lf
p o ,
e e e e e ,

t hough i t i s consid e r e d b e t t e r t o b urn t h e sulphur in an appara t us

o u t sid e t h e bl e aching room and t o l e ad t he gas in t o t h e lat t e r .

“ ”
From t h e u se of t h e so call e d s t ove for burning t h e sulphur
-
,
“ ”
t his proc e ss of bl e aching has r e c e iv e d t h e nam e of s t oving .

T h e wool (in wha t e ve r form ) mus t b e t horoughly scour e d for

b l e aching and should b e in a mois t (t hough no t wet ) condi t ion ,

as t h e gas ac t s b u t slowly on t h e dry wool Th e mat e ri al should

.

also b e so dis t ribu t e d in t he bl e aching room t ha t t h e gas may

e asily com e in con t ac t wi t h all par t s of t h e fi br e Usually t he
.
 2 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

gas i s all owe d t o pass from o ne e nd of t h e room t o t h e o t h e r and

t h e nc e o u t t hrough a fl u e Th e bl e aching c h amb e r mus t b e so
.

cons t ruc t e d t hat t h e cond e ns e d vapors (whic h consis t of ra t h e r

conc e n t rat e d sulphuric acid ) canno t drop on t h e wool e lse s po t t ing ,

will r e sul t or t h e fibr e may e v e n b e s e riously inj ur e d Also t h e

,
.

room should no t con t ain e xpos e d iron par t s which may com e in
con t ac t wi t h t h e sulphur gas as t h e m e t al will rapidly b e a t t ack e d
,

and t he cond e ns e d drops t ha t may fall on t h e wool will caus e b ad

spo t t ing .

2. Us e o f So di u m B i s u lph i t e
. Th e u se of t his ch e mical for
.

t h e bl e aching O f wool is m e r e ly a conv e ni e n t m e t hod for t h e

applicat ion of sulphurous acid in t h e form of a solu t ion The .

bl e aching age n t in fac t i s e xac t ly t h e sam e as wh e n sulphurous

, ,

acid gas i s e mploy e d and t h e ch ar ac t e r of t h e ble ach ob t ain e d in

,

t h e t wo cas e s i s prac t ic ally id e n t ical Sodium bisulphi t e has t h e

.

ch e mical formula N aHSO and wh e n dissolve d in wat e r i t s

s,

solu t ion prac t ic ally consis t s of sodium sulphi t e and sulphurous

acid :
2 Na HSO 3 N azSO s H28 0 3 .

Wh e n wool is s t e e p e d in t his solu t ion t he

sulphurous acid ac t s
dir e c t ly upon t h e fibr e as a bl e aching ag e n t and mor e o v e r t he , ,

wool also b e com e s sat ura t e d wi t h t h e sodium sulphi t e He nc e .

t h e wool is subs e qu e n t ly t r e a t e d wi t h a solu t ion of sulphuric acid ,

which r e ac t s wi t h t h e sodium sulphi t e forming sodium sulphat e

,

and lib e rat ing ano t h e r por t ion of sulphurous acid

Ne , s o ,
H, SO , N a, so ,
H, SO , .

This s e cond por t ion of sulphurous acid also aids mat e ri ally in
t h e bl e aching of t h e wool .

B l e ach e d wool is usually t in t e d wi t h a blu e or bluish viol e t

coloring mat t e r in ord e r t o giv e t o t h e fibr e a bluish whi t e t on e
-

which is mor e pl e asing t o t h e e ye t han t h e fl at bl e ach A minu t e .

quan t i t y of a blu e s h ad e of Acid Viole t i s use ful for t his purpos e ,

.

and i t i s g e n e rally appli e d in t h e rinsing b at h aft e r t h e bl e aching ,

adding a small quan t i t y of oxalic acid t o t h e wa t e r for t h e purpos e

 BLEACH I N G OF WOO L .
33

o f d e v e loping t h e color and also for t h e purpos e of r e moving

any t rac e of brownish s t ain d u e t o t h e pr e s e nc e of iron com
pound s
M e n t ion has alr e ady b e e n mad e of t h e f ac t t hat t h e bl e ach
O b t ain e d on wool by m e ans of sulphurous acid is no t a p e rman e n t

o n e b u t t h e y e llow t in t r e app e ars aft e r prolong e d e xposur e t o t h e

,

air Fur t h e rmor e i t app e ars t o b e prac t i cally impossibl e t o

‘

.
,

r e move e v e ry t rac e of sulphurous acid from t h e fibr e how e v e r ,

t horough t h e washing may b e aft e r t h e bl e aching Th e wool .

appar e n t ly combin e s in a ch e mical mann e r wi t h t h e sulphurous

acid and t his l e ads t o t wo d e fe c t s in t h e bl e ach e d wool ; in t h e
,

firs t plac e t h e pr e s e nc e of t h e sulphurous acid appar e n t ly holds

,

t h e p i gm e n t in t h e fibr e in a r e duc e d s t a t e SO t ha t t h e bl e ach lacks

p e rman e ncy of charac t e r as alre ad y no t e d ; s e condly t h e pr e s e nc e
’

, ,

of t h e sulphurous acid is liable t o a c t injuriously on o t h e r dye d

colors wi t h which t he bl e ach e d wool may subs e qu e n t ly com e in
con t ac t wh e n wov e n in t o clo t h This e ffe c t i s illus t rat e d in t h e
.

e xp e rim e n t by t h e ac t ion of t h e bl e ach e d wool in co nt ac t wi t h

wool dy e d wi t h M ag e n t a For t h e s e r e asons i t h as long b e e n

.

r e cogni z e d as d e sirabl e t o r e mov e from t h e bl e ach e d wool all

t rac e of sulphurous acid This may r e adily b e accomplish e d by
.

t r e a t ing t h e bl e ach e d ma t e rial wi t h a solu t ion con t aining a sui t

abl e oxidi z ing age n t Po t assium p e rmanganat e has b e e n qui t e
.

e x t e nsiv e ly e mploy e d for t his purpos e B y i t s ac t ion t h e sul

‘

p h u ro u s acid i s conv e r t e d in t o sulphuric acid which i

,
s h arml e ss
as far as t h e e ffe c t s o u t lin e d above a re conc e rn e d In t h e u se o f .

t his ag e n t how e v e r gr e a t c ar e mus t b e e x e rcis e d no t t o e mploy

, ,

an e xc e ss b e yond t hat n e e d e d t o r e ac t wi t h t h e sulphurous acid ,

o t h e rwis e a brown d e posi t of an oxid e (or hydra t e ) of mangan e s e
will b e l e ft on t h e wool and a subs e qu e n t t r e a t m e n t wi t h a solu
,

t ion of sodium bisulphi t e will hav e t o b e giv e n t o r e mov e t his

d e posi t Ins t e ad of using po t assium p e rmangana t e in t his con

.

ne c t i o n i t would prob ably b e b e t t e r t o e mploy a small quan t i t y O f

sodium p e roxid e which would hav e t he sam e e ff e c t on t h e t rac e

,

O f sulphurous acid wi t hou t t h e a t t e ndan t d e fe c t of discolora t ion

t hrough t h e addi t ion of an e xc e ss of t h e r e age n t Th e pr e s e nc e of

.
34 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEMIS TR Y .

t rac e s of sulphurous acid in wool may b e conv e ni e n t ly d e t e c t e d

by w e t t i ng t h e wool in a small quan t i t y of wat e r and addin g
a fe w drops of a mix t ur e of iodic acid and s t arch solu t ions ;
if sulp h urous ac i d is pr e s e n t a viol e t or blu e color will b e
form e d .

3 . B l e a c h in g W00 1 wi t h P e r o xi d e s Th e u se of sod i u m
.

p e roxid e as a bl e ac h i ng ag e n t for wool i s fas t b e coming of con

s i d e r ab le prac t ical impor t anc e Form e rly hydrog e n p e roxid e
.

was som e what e mploy e d for t his purpos e b u t i t s hig h cos t was a ,

bar t o i t s e x t e ns i v e applic at ion Th e bl e ach i ng ac t ion of t h e se

.

t wo subs t anc e s how e v e r i s id e n t i c al and i s d u e t o t h e nasc e n t

, , ,

oxyge n which t h e y are capabl e of l i b e ra t ing Hydroge n p e roxid e .

has t h e ch e mical formula H O , and i s pr e par e d by t h e ac t i on o f

, ,

sulphuric acid on b arium p e roxid e As e mploy e d in t h e ar t s i t

.

consist s of a comparat iv e ly d ilu t e solu t ion (abou t 3 pe r c e n t ) o f .

hydrog e n p e roxid e in wa t e r Th e ch e mic al formula of sodium

.

p e roxid e is N a O ; i t is pr e par e d by h e a t ing m e t allic sodium in

z ,

air It occurs as a y e llow i sh whi t e powd e r and may b e ob t ain e d

.

O f a h i gh d e gr e e O f puri t y . Som e car e mus t b e t ak e n in t h e

handling and using of sodium p e roxid e as i t i s e asily d e compos e d
,

in t h e pr e s e nc e O f moist ur e and organic ma t t e r wi t h t h e e volu t ion

o f larg e volum e s of oxyg e n which may l e ad t o e xplosions or fir e s .

Wh e n h andle d wi t h in t e ll i ge n t pre cau t ion how e ve r i t is by no , ,

m e ans a dan g e rous ch e mical It should b e s t or e d in a cool

.
,

dry plac e in comparat iv e ly small t ins (t h e usual comm e rcial si z e

is t ha t con t aining IO pounds ) and should b e k e p t from con t ac t
,

wi t h wat e r or wi t h organic ma t t e r such as pap e r e xc e lsior e t c , ,

.

As t h e r e ac t ion which occurs b e t w e e n sodium p e roxid e and wa t e r

i s a v e ry viol e n t o ne i t s solu t i on should b e car e fully und e r t ak e n
,
.

La rge qu a nti t i es o r lu mp s of s o di u m p e ro x i de s h o u ld ne v e r be
a dde d t o wa te r,
as an e xplosion or fir e i s liabl e t o r e sul t Th e .

p e roxid e should b e sift e d gradually in t o t h e wat e r wi t h cons t an t

s t irr i ng Wh e n sodium p e roxid e is dissolve d in wa t e r caus t ic
.

soda and hydrog e n p e rox i d e are form e d

N a2 0 2 + 2 HZ O 2 NaO H HzO z
.
 BLE ACH I N G OF WO O L .
35

bl e ac hing e ffe c t is d u e t o t he r e ady d e composi t ion O f t he

It s
”

hydroge n p e roxi d e in con t ac t wi t h organic mat t e r (such as wool )

HQ =
H O + O

Th e oxyg e n , at t he
mom e n t O f i t s lib e rat ion in such a mann e r i s ,

e sp e cially r e ac t iv e (so —call e d na s ce nt oxyg e n ) and e asily d e s t roys

,

t h e organic coloring ma t t e rs of which t h e pigm e n t of t h e wool

-

consist s It is n e c e ssary t o n e u t rali z e t h e caust ic soda in t h e

.

solu t ion by t h e addi t ion of sulphuric acid as t h e pr e s e nc e of ,

t h e caus t ic alkali in t h e bl e aching b a t h would rapidly d e s t roy t h e

wo ol fibr e O n t his accoun t t h e bat h is usually pr e par e d by
.

fi rs t adding t h e r e quisi t e amoun t of sulphuric acid t o t h e wa t e r ,

and t h e n slowly adding t h e sodium p e roxid e Und e r t h e se .

circums t anc e s t h e p e roxid e r e ac t s wi t h t h e sulphuric acid t o form

sodium sulphat e (glaub e rs al t ) and hydrog e n p e roxid e

N aZ O z l H, S O , = Na, SO , + H, O ,
-
.

'

In ord e r t o i nsu re t h e fac t t ha t t h e r e i s no fr e e caus t ic soda in t h e

solu t ion i t is b e st t o u se a sligh t e xc e ss O f acid which may b e ,

i ndica t e d by t e s t ing t h e b a t h wi t h a pi e c e of blu e li t mus pap e r .

This will b e t urn e d r e d in t h e pr e s e nc e of an e xc e ss of acid Th e .

ble aching e ffe c t of t h e dissolve d h ydrog e n p e roxid e how e v e r i s , ,

s t rong e r in an alkalin e so lu t ion t han in an acid o ne ; t hi s i s d u e t o

t he fac t t ha t t h e p e roxid e mor e r e ad i ly d e compos e s in t h e form e r

solu t ion Th e r e for e wh e r e t h e bl e aching b at h is in ac t ual u se

.

i t should b e mad e sligh t ly alkalin e wi t h a r e ag e n t which will n o t

b e injurious t o t h e wool Sodium silica t e has b e e n found t o b e
.

mos t sui t abl e for t his purpos e t hough ammoni a or borax may
,

also b e us e d In t his conn e c t ion i t mus t b e r e mark e d t hat a

.

larg e e xc e ss of sulphuric acid mus t b e avoid e d o t h e rwis e wh e n ,

t h e silica t e is add e d i t may s e para t e in a j e lly lik e mass and ruin -

t h e b at h . During t h e bl e aching of t h e wool t h e b a t h should b e

0
main t ain e d a t a t e mp e ra t ur e of abou t 1 0 0 F If t h e t e mp e rat ur e
.

1 5 much high e r t han t his t h e hydrog e n p e roxid e w i ll b e t o o rapidly

d e compos e d and loss of oxyg e n will b e occasion e d ; if t h e b at h i s

t o o s t rongly alkalin e a similar condi t i on w i ll r e sul t .
3 6 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TIL E CHEMIS TR Y .

Th e sodium p e roxid e bl e aching bat h mus t b e con t ain e d in a

wood e n v at and t h e pip e s us e d for conn e c t i ons and h e a t ing
should b e of l e ad Th e pr e s e nc e of all o t h e r m e t al s e sp e c i ally
.
,

iron s h ould b e rigidly e xclud e d ; e v e n t h e sulphuric acid and t he

,

wat e r e mploy e d in t h e bat h should b e p e rfe c t ly fr e e from iron ,

o t h e rwis e v e ry infe rior r e sult s will b e O b t ain e d A su i t abl e .

s t r e ngt h for t h e bl e aching bat h i s 5 lbs 5 o z s of sulphur i c

. .

acid ( 1 6 8 Tw ) and 4 lbs of sodium p e roxid e (9 8 pe r c e n t )

°
. .
.

p e r 1 00 gallons of wa t er . T h e charac t e r of t h e wool or t h e

na t ur e O f t h e mat e rial t o b e bl e ach e d may n e c e ssi t a t e a some

wha t s t ronge r bat h t han t his in wh i ch cas e t h e same r e lat ive
,

propor t ions O f acid and p e roxid e should b e us e d .

Wool ble ach e d wi t h sodium p e roxid e do e s no t e xhibi t t he sam e

d e fe c t s as no t e d und e r t h e bl e aching wi t h sulphurous ac i d It .

do e s no t r e t ain any subs t anc e d e l e t e rious t o dy e d colors nor do e s ,

t h e y e llow t in t O f t h e na t ural pigm e n t r e t urn on e xposur e t o t h e

ai r for t his pigm e n t app e ars t o b e p e rman e n t ly d e s t roy e d by t he
’

p e roxid e A t t e n t i on may h e r e b e drawn t o t he radical diffe re nc e

.

in t h e princip le of bl e aching wi t h sulphurous acid and wi t h sodium

p e roxid e In t h e form e r case t h e bl e aching t ak e s plac e t hrough
.

t he re du ci ng ac t ion of t h e sulphur dioxid e wh e r e as in t h e la t t e r

,

cas e t he bl e aching i s brough t abou t by t h e s t rong o x i di zi ng

ac t ion of t h e p e roxid e .

In ord e r t o asc e r t ain if t h e ble aching ba t h of sodium p e roxid e

aft e r u s e s t i ll con t ains ac t i v e oxyg e n for fur t h e r u se in bl e aching
t h e following t e s t may b e c arri e d o u t : A small quan t i t y of t h e
r e s i dual liquor i s plac e d in a t e s t t ub e and a fe w d rops of a dilu t e
-

solu t i on of po t assi um p e rmangana t e are add e d If t h e bat h s t ill .

poss e ss e s an ox i di z ing ac t ion t h e viol e t color of t h e p e rmangana t e

,

solu t ion will b e d e st roye d .

4 B le a c hi n g W0 0 1 wi t h Po ta ss i um P e rm an gan a t e
.

.
This .

compound i s also a s t rong oxidi z ing age n t and i t s solu t ion will
,

rap i dly d e s t roy t h e nat ural pigme n t of wool In t h e d e co m po .

si t i o u of t h e p e rmanganat e h ow e v e r .wh e r e by i t lib e ra t e s oxyge n

, , ,

t h e r e is also form e d an insolubl e h ydra t e d o xid e O f mangan e s e ,

wh i ch i s pr e c i pi t a t e d i n t h e wool and impar t s t o i t a brown color .

 38 D YE N G AN D I TEX TI LE CHEM IS TR Y .

47 . Effe ctph O f s ul u ro u s a ci d in y a rn o n d y e d co lo r s .

48 . dy d
Effe ct o n e g lph
co lo r s a ft e r re m o vi n id su u ro u s a c .

49 . W l y n bl
o o en ar eac h d wi t h
e di m p id so u e ro x e .

50 . W lny nt
o o e ar re a e t d wi t h p t i m p m g o t a ss u er an a na e .

51 . W l y n bl
oo en ar ea c h d wi th p m g
e t d b i lphi t
er a n a na e a n su e .

Q U IZ 3 .

58 . What i s t he na t ura l co lo r o f o rdi na r yw oo l? p

Ex la i n t h e t he o r y o f
bl hing by m
eac e ans o f t h e t i nt i n gp ro ce s s . Wh at co lo ri n gm -
a tt e rs a re em

pl y d d h w i
o e ,
an o s t he o p e ra t i o n co nd u ct e d ?
59 . Ho w m a y t h e bl e a ch i n g a ct i o n o f s ul h u ro p u sa ci d g
o n o r a ni c co lo ri n g
m a tt e rs b e ex pl a i ne d ?
60 . Gi ve t he p ro ce s s o f ble a ch i n gw oo l w i th lph su u ro us a ci d
ga s . Wh at
le n t h g o f t ime i s re qu i re d ? Why i s it ne ce s sa r y t t i t t h bl
o n e ea ch e d m a t e ri a l ?
Wh at i s m e ant by “
s t o vi n g
61 . Wha t is so di um b i lphi t su e ? Wh a t is its a c t i ve bl e a chi n g p i i pl r nc e ?
62 . Gi ve t h e co m pl t p e e ro ce s s o b
f le a ch i n gw oo l wi t h so lu t i o ns o f so di u m
b i lphi t
su e .

63 . p
Ex la i n t h e u se o f t he b a th o p
f s u l h u ri c a ci d in bl ea ch i n g with so di um
b i lphitsu e .

64 . Wh at di sa dva nt a g es a re a tt a ch e d to t he s ul h u ro p us a ci d m e t ho d o f
bl ea ch i n gw oo l? Ho w co u ld yo u t e st t he bl e a ch e d w oo l to sho w if it co n ta i ne d

s ul ph u ro us a ci d ?
65 . Ho w m ay t h e s ul ph u ro u s a c i d le ft i n t h e w o o l a ft e r bl e a chi ng b e re m o ve d
o r ne u t ra li ze d ?
66 . Wh at d e fe ct i s li a le t o b a ri se wh n y e a rn bl e a ch e d wi th s ul ph u ro u s a ci d

is w o ve n w i t h dy d y e a rn s ?
67 . Wh at
di ffe re nce , i f a ny, di d yo u no t i ce i n t h e sa m le s re a re d fro m p p p
t he t re a t e d a nd unt re a t e d le a ch e d s e i ns b
h e n la i t e d i th a d e d arn ? k w p w y y
68 . Wha t i s th e a cti ve bl e a ch i n g p i i pl r nc e in p e ro xi de s ? Wh a t i s hydro ge n
p id e ro x e ? Ho w i s i t m a de ? Why i s it no t m u ch u se d di re ct l fo r y bl e a chi n g
p p
"

u r o se s ?
69 . What is so di um p e ro xi de ? Ho w i s i t m a de ? Wh at p re ca u t i o n s m ust
b e ta k en g it ? i n h an dli n g a nd u s i n

7 Wh t 0 ti n t k
. pl wh n di m p i d i di l d i n w t ?
a re a c o a es a ce e so u e ro x e s s so ve a er

Wh t tia t k pl wh i t i di l d i n dil t lph i i d ?

rea c o n a es a ce en s sso ve u e su ur c a c

7 Gi 1th m t h d f p p i ng t h b l
ve h i n g b t h wi t h
e di m p
e id
o o re ar e ea c a so u e ro x e .

Why h ld t h b t h t ill b li ght ly i d ft th p

s o u e id i add d ? s e s ac a er e e ro x e s a e

7 Wh t i t h p p
2 f m k i ng t h p
a i d bl
s hi ng b t h li gh t ly
e ur o se o a e e ro x e ea c a S

lk li b f bl hi g d wh t lk li m y b mpl y d f t h p p ? '
a a ne e o re ea c n ,
an a a a es a e e o e o r e u r o se

7 3 At wh t t m p. t i t h b t h m i t i d i bl
a h i g wi t h
e di m
e ra u re s e a a n a ne n eac n so u

p i d ? Wh t l ngth f ti m i q i d f th bl hi ng ?
e ro x e a e O e s re u re o r e ea c
 BLEACHI N G OF WOO L .
39

74 . De scri be a wh i
t e st ch wi ll i ndi ca t e wh t h e er t he p e ro xi d e b at h is
e xh a u s t e d o r no t . If t h p e e ro x i d b th i
e a s to b k pt
e e o ve r ho w i s i t b e st p re

se rve d ? In wh t k i d f
a n o a vat sh o ul d t he p e ro xi d e bl e a ch i n gb at h be u se d ?
Ho w i s t he a ea e b th h t d ?
7 5 Ho w do e s t h e q u a li t
. y f t h p i d bl
o e e ro x e e ach o n w o o l co m p a rewi t h t h at

w i t h l ph su id i u ro u s a c n re g dt t p m
ar o co s , er a ne n c y ,
a nd a ct i o n o f dy d e l co o rs

w wi t h t h b l h
o ve n e ea c e d y n? ar

76 . Wh a t i s t he e ffe ct o f t ra ce s o f i ro n i n t he pe ro xi de b le a chi ng b a t h ? DO
o ther m e t als h av e t h e sa m e e ffe ct ? Wh y sho u ld a ll t he ch e m i ca ls e m p lo y e d
i n the b ath be p e rfe ct l yf ree fro m i ro n?

Wh at p p g Wh a t bl g
.

77 . is o t a ssi u m e rm a n ana t e ? i s its a ct i v e e a ch i n

p i n i pl
r c e ?
78 . Ho w i s the p e r m a n a na t e g bl e a chi n g b th p pa re a re d ? Exp la i n the
wh i h
ch e m i ca l re a ct i o n c o ccu r s wh n w e oo l is w k di n
o r e n a a ci d u la t e d so lu t i o n

ofp t i m p m ng
o a ss u t er a a na e .

7 9 Wh t i t h
.
pp a n s e a e a ra ce o f the w o o l a ft e r co min g fro m t h e p e rm a n

g n at b t
a eh ? T w h t ia t h i o a s s due ?
80 . Wh a t a ft e ry i n th p -
t re a t m e nt is ne ce ssa r e g
e rm an a na t e bl e a ch ?
E pl i n th h mi l
x a ti
e cwhi h t k pl
e ca re a c o n c a es ace .

8 At w h t t m p
1 . t i t h bl
a hi n g wi t h p t
e e ra u re s e ea c o as si um p g
e rm a n a na t e

nd
co t d? Wh t t i m i q i d f t h b l hi ng ?
uc e a e s re u re o r e eac Ho w do e s t h e re s u lt

mp
co w i th th th m th d f bl hi ng ?
a re e o er e o s o ea c
 S ECT I O N IV .

B LEACH ING OF C OTTON .

Expe ri m e n t 22 . B l e a c hi n g Co tt o n wi t h Ch l o ri de o f Li m e .

T ak e a w e igh e d ske in of co t t on yarn and boil i t o ut in c aust i c

soda as d e scrib e d in Exp 1 2 Tak e ano t h e r w e igh e d sk e in
. .

and boil i t o ut wi t h soap as d e scrib e d in E xp 1 4 ; al so a t hird .

w e igh e d sk e in scoure d wi t h Monopol Soap as in E xp 1 5 . .

Wash t h e se sk e ins w e ll and s t e e p in a solu t ion of chlorid e of

lime (ble aching powd e r ) of 2 Tw s t re ng t h Work for s e ve ral
°
. .

minu t e s un t il t he fibr e is t horoughly sat urat e d wi t h t he liquor ;

t h e n imm e rs e in t he solu t ion and allow t o s t and for 1 hour .

“ ”
Th e n squ e eze and rin se in wat e r and sour by passing for ,

1 5 minu t e s t hrough a cold bat h of sul phuric acid of 1 Tw °

.

s t r e ng t h Finally wash w e ll in wat e r t o r e move all t rac e of

.

acid R e we igh e ach sk e in (5 2 5 3 5 4 ) and c alculat e t h e pe r

.
, ,

c e n t age of loss in e ach cas e and comp are t he bl e ach Ob t ain e d

,

w i t h e ach m e t hod O f boiling o u t -

T e s t t he ske ins for a ci d by
.

m ois t e ning a por t ion wi t h a li tt l e wa t e r and pr e ssing agains t

i t a pi e c e O f blu e li t mus pap e r ; if t h e t e s t pa pe r t urns r e d ,

a cid i s s t ill pr e s e n t in t h e fi br e and t h e washing has b e e n Imp e r

,

fe ct wi t h a r e sul t t hat t h e co tt on will soon b e com e t e nd e r

,
To .

t e s t t h e bl e ach e d co t t on for t rac e s of chlo ri ne which may r e mai n

aft e r bl e aching t ak e a por t ion of t he sk e in and warm wi t h a
,

s mall amoun t of po t assium iodid e s t arch solu t ion ; i f a blu e color

-

i s d e v e lop e d t h e r e i s s t ill chlorin e in t he fi br e

,
Th e t e s t solu t ion
.

m ay b e pr e par e d by dissolving a li tt l e s t arch pas t e (mad e by

boiling up som e s t arch wi t h wat e r t o a p as t e ) in a solu t ion o f
po t assium iodid e .

Expe ri m e n t 2 3 Us e o f Anti chlo r fo r Rem o vi n g Ch lo ri ne

.
-

i n B le a c h i ng . Take a ske in of co ft on yarn which has b e e n

boil e d o ut in caus t ic soda in t h e usual mann e r and bl e ach i t for
 BLEACH I N G OF CO TTO N .
41

1 hour in a cold solu t ion O f chlorid e of lim e at 2 Tw t h e n wash °

.
,

in wat e r O n a por t ion O f t he sk e in plac e a drop or t wo of t he

.

po t assium iodid e s t arch solu t ion and i t will b e found t hat a blu e
—
,

color i s d e ve lop e d showing t he pr e s e nc e of chlorin e NO W p ass

, .

t h e sk e in t hrough a b a t h con t aining a li t t l e sulphuric acid for a

fe w minu t e s and wash again ,
Te s t wi t h t h e po t assium iodid e
.

s t arch solu t ion again and i t will s t ill b e found t hat fre e chlorin e
,

i s pr e se n t Pre par e a bat h con t aining 3 00 cc of wa t e r and

. .

1 gram O f sodium t hiosulphat e ( sodium hyposulphi t e ) and p ass

Wash (5 5 )
1

t h e sk e in t hrough t his solu t ion cold for 1 0 minu t e s .

and ag ai n t e s t wi t h t h e po t assium iodid e s t arch solu t ion wh e n -

,

i t will b e found t ha t t h e fr e e chlorin e has b e e n n e u t rali z e d Th e .

“ ”
sodium hyposulphi t e is c alle d an t i chlor wh e n use d for t hi s -

purpos e ; sodium bisulphi t e will also answ e r t h e sam e purpos e .

Expe ri m e n t 2 4 B l e a ch i n g Lo o s e Co tt o n fo r Ab so r b e n t Pur
.

p o se.s W e igh o u t 1 0 grams of loos e co t t on (5 6 ) and boil for

1 hour in a b at h con t aining 3 00 cc of wat e r and 5 grams o f .

caust ic soda R ins e o ff w e ll in fr e sh wat e r and ble ach in a cold

.

solu t ion of chlorid e of lime at 2 Tw for 1 hour R ins e and °

. .
,

pass t hrough a cold solu t ion O f sulphuric acid a t 1 Tw for 2 0 °

.

minu t e s Th e n wash w e ll in s e ve ral chang e s of wa t e r un t il all

.

acid i s r e move d Th e n squ e e z e and dry

. R e w e igh t h e
sample and calculat e t h e p e rc e n t ag e of loss Te s t t he bl e ach e d .

co t t on for absorb e n t qu al i t i e s by placing a small b i t of i t on t h e

surf ac e of cold wa t e r ; if i t is p e rfe c t ly absorb e n t i t should sink ,

a t onc e Try a small pi e c e of raw co tt on in t h e sam e mann e r

.
,

and i t will b e found t hat t h e latt e r do e s no t sink at all .

Ex pe rim e n t 2 5 Ti nt in g an d Sof t e ni n g o f B l e a c h e d Co t t o n
. .

B oil o u t four sk e ins of co t t on yarn in caus t ic soda in t h e usual

mann e r ; wash w e ll in wat e r and bl e ach for 1 hour in a cold b at h
,

of chlorid e of lim e a t 2 Tw Wash squ e e ze and pass for

°
.
, ,

1 5 minu t e s t hrough a cold b at h of s ul phuric acid a t 1 Tw °

.

Wash in t wo change s of wat e r Th e n t e st t h e sk e ins wi t h li t mus

.

pap e r and t h e chanc e s are t hat t h e y will s t ill S how t h e pr e s e nc e

,

of acid Se t o ne of t h e sk e ins asid e for compari son

. Tak e
ano t h e r o ne of t he sk e ins and work for I 5 minu t e s in a b at h
42 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y
con t aining 300 cc of wa t e r 1 gram of soap and
.
, p e r c e nt ,
.

of Me t hyl Viol e t 5 B ; h ave t h e t e mp e ra t ur e a t abou t 1 40 F °

.

Th e n squ e e z e and dry Tak e a t hird sk e in and t r e at in t h e

sam e soap bat h b ut add r i m pe r c e n t of t he coloring mat t e r ;
,
.
-

squ e e ze and dry Tak e t he four t h sk e in and t r e at in t h e

1
sam e mann e r wi t h t he soap solu t ion b u t add 3 1; pe r c e n t of t he ,
.

dy e s t u ff ; squ e e z e an d dry Th e p e rc e n t ag e s of t h e dy e s t u ff
a re t o b e calcula t e d on t h e w e igh t of t h e co t t on t in t e d Tha t is .
,
l
fi m pe r c e n t on 1 0 grams of co t t on would b e
. gram Th e .

solu t ions provid e d should con t ain gram of dy e s t uff pe r li t r e

( 1 00 0 cc.
) h e nc e I c c wo u ld r.e pr e s e n t gram O f dy e s t u ff and ,

i t would re quir e 5 cc t o giv e t h e n e c e ssary

.
p e r ce nt or 1 0 cc .
,
.

1
for r t e pe r c e n t or 2 0 cc for 3 1; pe r c e n t Aft e r t h e s e ve ral
.
,
. .

sk e ins have dri e d compar e t he fe e l or soft n e ss of t he fir s t wi t h

,
-

t ha t of t h e o t h e rs which have b e e n t r e a t e d wi t h t h e soap ba t h .

Also compar e t h e d e gr e e s of t in t ing O f t h e lat t e r t hr e e sk e ins and

t h e di ff e r e nc e in t h e ch arac t e r of t h e whi t e ob t ain e d in e ach cas e .

Ex pe ri m e n t 2 6 Us e o f Ace ti c Aci d i n B l e a c h i n g
. B oil o u t a .

sk e in of co t t on yarn wi t h caus t ic soda in t h e usual mann e r and

bl e ach for I hour in a cold solu t ion of chlorid e of lim e a t 2 Tw °
.

con t aining also a li t t le ac e t ic acid Th e n wash w e ll in fr e sh .

wa t e r and pass t hrough t he dilu t e soap bat h as d e scrib e d above

It will b e no t ic e d t ha t som e chlorin e is give n o ff in t h e
bl e ach bat h con t aining t h e ac e t ic acid b u t t he bl e aching do e s no t ,

r e quir e t h e aft e r u se of an acid from which t h e r e i s al ways

,

dang e r of t e nd e ring t h e fi br e .

Ex pe ri m e n t 2 7 Us e o f Li m e B o i l i n B l e a ch i n g Co tt o n
.
!
.

Pr e par e a solu t ion of lim e wat e r by slaking 1 0 grams of quick

-

lim e (ox i d e of calcium Ca O ) wi t h a small quan t i t y of wat e r and

, ,

t h e n dilu t ing t o 3 00 cc B oil a w e igh e d sk e in of co tt on yarn i n

.

t his ba t h for 1 hour t h e n wash and pass t hrough a cold ba t h

,

con t ai n i ng 300 cc of wat e r and 3 cc of conc e n t rat e d hydrochloric

. .

a cid ; work for 1

5 minu t e s W ash . and bl e ach for 1 hour in a

cold solu t ion of chlorid e of lim e at 2 T w Wash and pass b ack

°
.
,

t h rough t h e cold acid b a t h for 1 5 minu t e s Th e n wash w e ll and .

s oap as usual in a dilu t e warm soap ba t h Wash and dry .

 BLEACH I N G OF CO TTO N .
43

R e w e igh and calculat e t he

p e rc e n t age of loss Compar e t his .

m e t hod of bl e aching wi t h t he pr e vious on e s The firs t t r e a t m e n t .

wi t h acid is r e quir e d in ord e r t o dissolv e o ut any lim e compounds

form e d in t h e fibr e which would o t h e rwis e r e main and t e nd e r
,

t h e co tt on and also no t allow t h e chlorid e of lim e t o ac t as p e r

,

fe c t ly a s i t should .

Ex pe ri m e n t 2 8 Us e o f So di um Hypo c hlo ri t e
. Pr e par e a b at h .

con t aining sodi um hypochlori t e solu t ion O f 1 Tw In t his cold °

.

bat h s t e e p for 1 hour a sk e in of co t t on yarn pr e viously boil e d o u t

wi t h c aus t ic soda Wash and pass t hrough a cold bat h of sul
.

p h u ri c acid a t 1 T°
w for 1 5 minu t e s
. Th e n wash w e ll and soap
.

as usual Sodium hypochlori t e i s pr e par e d by adding a

solu t ion O f soda ash t o o ne of chlorid e of lim e allowing t h e ,

pr e cipi t a t e of calci um carbonat e t o s e tt l e and drawing O ff t h e

cl e ar liqu o r It i s mor e e ffi ci e n t as a bl e aching ag e n t t han
.

chlorid e of lim e and is also l e ss li abl e t o caus e t e nd e ring of t h e

,

fibr e It i s mor e e xp e nsive how e ve r t han chlorid eO f lim e

.
, , .

Ex pe ri m e n t 2 9 Com p ari s on o f t h e Use of Su lph uri c an d Hy d ro

.

c h lori c A ci ds i n B l e a c h i n g Co tt on Tak e t wo sk e ins of co tt on

.

yarn which hav e b e e n boil e d o u t wi t h c aus t ic soda and bl e ach

t h e m in t h e usual mann e r wi t h chlorid e of lim e solu t ion a t 2 Tw
°
.

Wi t hout washing t ak e o ne of t he sk e ins and pass t hrough a

,

b at h con t aining 300 cc of wa t e r and 3 cc o f hydrochloric acid

. .

cold for 1 5 minu t e s t h e n wash w e ll and dry

,
Tak e t h e
o t h e r sk e ins and t r e at in a similar mann e r wi t h a solu t ion of 2 cc .

of sulphuric acid in 3 0 0 cc of wa t e r ; wash w e ll and dry .

N o t ic e t hat in t h e b at h con t aining t h e hydrochloric acid t h e r e

is no pr e cipi t at e form e d as t h e lim e compound wi t h t his acid i s
,

soluble in wa t e r ; wh e r e as in t h e sulphuric acid bat h a pr e cipi t a t e

of c al cium sulphat e is form e d which will r e main t o a gr e at e r or
l e sse r e xt e n t in t h e co t t on .

Ex pe ri m e n t 3 0 Use of Chlo ro zo ne
. Pr e par e a ba t h con t ain
.

“ ”
ing 3 0 0 cc of wat e r and 2 0 cc of Chlo ro zo ne and bl e ach a
. .
,

sk e in of co t t on yarn which has b e e n boil e d o ut in caus t ic soda i n

t his ba t h for 1 hour E n t e r t h e sk e in a t a t e mp e rat u re of abou t
.

°
2 00 F . and allow t o cool in t h e bat h wi t hou t fur t h e r h e a t ing .
44 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

Th e n squ e e ze and pass t hrough a bat h of sulphuric acid solu t ion

,

at 1
°
Tw cold for 1 5 minu t e s
. Wash w e ll and dry .

NOTES .

1 . Me t h o d o f Co tt o n B l e a chi n g
Ge n e r al O rdinary Am e rican
.

co t t on is of a comp arat ive ly whi t e color wh e n in t h e nat ural raw

s t at e ; b u t n e ve r t h e l e ss i t con t ains a small amoun t of nat ural
, ,

pigm e n t ma t t e r of a y e llowish brown color This pigm e n t

'

is so small in amoun t t hat i t do e s no t in t e rfe r e in t he g e n e ral

dy e ing of co t t on ; b u t wh e n ligh t d e licat e shad e s are d e sir e d in
,

dye ing or wh e n t h e co t t on mat e ri al is t o b e l e ft in t he whi t e

,

condi t ion for sal e i t is usually n e c e ssary t o bl e ach i t Co tt on

,
.

in t h e loose s t at e i s ve ry s e ldom bl e ach e d sinc e t h e bl e aching ,

proc e sse s consid e rably d e t e riorat e t he spinning quali t i e s of t he

fi br e by r e moving i t s waxy coat ing ; t h e fibr e is also mad e mor e
bri tt l e by t he bl e aching which cause s a larg e ly incr e as e d amoun t
O f was t e in carding and spinning ; fur t h e rmor e a f t e r bl e ach e d
,

c o tt on i s pass e d t hrough t h e num e rous m e chan ical ope ra t ions of

c arding and spinning i t will b e com e mor e or l e ss discolor e d and

will have acquir e d consid e rable dir t so t hat t h e final yarn or ,

clo t h would b e unsat isfac t ory as a bl e ach e d produc t Y arn is .

som e t im e s spun from bl e ach e d s t ock for t h e manufac t ur e of kni t

goods t hus giving a half bl e ach e d produc t ; i t i s also us e d for h al f
,
-

bl e ach e d filling yarns Co tt on yarn is fr e qu e n t ly bl e ach e d bo t h

.

for t h e purpos e of b e ing dy e d in d e licat e shad e s and of b e ing man

u fac t u r e d in t o whi t e goods mor e e sp e ci ally kni t t e d fabrics lac e , ,

e tc . Th e chi e f form how e v e r in which co tt on is bl e ach e d is t ha t

, ,

of clo t h ; in which case i t may b e us e d (a ) as a bleache d b o tto m for

t h e dy e ing of d e lic a t e shad e s or for colors such as Turk e y re d -
,

( )
b for p r i n t clo t h in t h e many proc e ss e s of calico prin t ing and -
,

(c) for t h e purpos e of b e ing sold in t he whi t e s t at e or as a ma rket ,

ble a ch .

Though numb e r of ch e mic al ag e n t s have b e e n sugg e st e d for

a

t h e bl e aching of co t t on t h e o ne which has b e e n mos t succ e ssfully

,

and e x t e nsiv e ly e mploy e d i s chlo ri de of li me or b lea ch i ng p o wde r .

Th e e ffe c t ive bl e aching ag e n t in t h e chlorid e of lim e is chlorin e

46 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

pre vious t o dye ing In t he lat t e r cas e i t is only n e c e ssary t hat

.

t h e e x t e rnal waxy coa t ing on t h e fibr e b e r e move d or soft e n e d i n

ord e r t hat wat e r may e as i ly impr e gnat e t h e co tt on B u t in .

bo i ling o u t for ble aching i t i s r e quir e d t o r e move ve ry com

-

p l e t e ly a ll t h e impuri t i e s in t h e fi b r e including t h e waxy

,
coa t ing ,

t h e misc e ll an e ous r e sinous ma t t e rs t h e albuminous subs t anc e s , ,

and in fac t all mat t e rs of a non c e llulosic charac t e r It i s t he-

.

obj e c t in bl e aching t o O b t ain a prac t ically pur e c e llulose for t he

bl e ach e d co t t on For t h e w e t t ing o u t of co t t on a dilu t e solu t ion
.
-
,

of soap soda ash or solubl e oil only is r e quir e d b u t for t h e prop e r

, , ,

boiling o u t of t h e co t t on a rat h e r s t rong solu t ion O f c aus t ic al kali

-

or soda ash is r e quir e d ; t he t im e O f boiling is much prolonge d

( usu a lly 7 t o 1 0 hours ) and i t i s g,
e n e rall y conduc t e d und e r
pr e ssure in a close d ki e r Th i s ve ry t horough boiling o u t of t h e
.
-

co t t on pr e vious t o ble ac h ing is n e c e ssi t at e d by t he fac t t hat if any

r e sinous mat t e rs (or so call e d p ect i n ) are l e ft in t h e fibr e t h e
-
,

bl e ach e d mat e ri al will gradually b e com e y e llow on e xposure t o

ligh t and air Form e rly li me was v e ry g e n e rally use d for t he
.

boiling o u t of co tt on in which case i t was n e c e ssary t o pass t h e

-
,

ma t e ri al t hrough an acid bat h (so call e d gr ay s o u r ) t o r e move -

“ ”
par t icl e s of lim e which migh t o t h e rwis e burn t h e fibr e It .

was t hough t t ha t boiling wi t h lim e caus e d a mor e p e rfe c t d e c o m

posi t ion and r e moval of t h e r e sinous subs t anc e s in t he co t t on .

L im e how e v e r is no t so much us e d at t h e pr e s e n t t im e i t b e ing

, , ,

r e plac e d by caus t ic soda t h e ac t ion of which i s mor e e ffici e n t

,

and r e quir e s l e ss t im e Wh e n t he lim e boil is use d (chi e fly wi t h

.

pi e c e goods ) a pr e vious boiling wi t h res i n s o a p i s usually give n

-
.

S i li ca t e of s o da i s a v e ry good alkali for boiling o u t co t t on for -

bl e aching M any popular bl e ach assis t an t s consist O f varying

.
“ ”

proport ions of silicat e of soda soda a s h and caust ic soda Silicat e

, ,
.

of soda do e s no t give t h e co t t on such a harsh fe e l as wh e n caus t ic

soda is us e d .

4 B l e a ch i ng Po wde r and i ts Us e
. B l e aching powd e r or.

chlorid e of lime is pr e par e d by t r e t ing slak e d lim e wi t h chlo

a
Cl
rin e gas . It s ch e mical formula is Ca
<8
1 , or Ca O Cl, . It is
 BLEACH I N G OF C O TTO N .
47

commonly known as ch e m i c or bl e ach “

Chlorid e of lim e .

is a y e llowish whi t e powd e r which sm e lls s t rongly of chlorin e ,

e sp e cially i f mois t e n e d Wh e n t re at e d wi t h wa t e r i t par t ly go e s

.

in t o solu t ion and p ar t ly forms a bulky whi t e pr e cipi t a t e consis t

ing for t h e mos t par t of lim e (Ca O ) Th e solu t i on has a y e llowish
.

color and i s t h e liquid e mploy e d for t h e pr e parat ion of t h e bl e ach

ing bat h A good qual i t y of chlorid e of lim e should con t ain
.

abou t 3 6 p e r c e n t of availabl e c h lorin e t hat is t o say chlorin e

.
, ,

which i s ac t ive in t h e ble ach i ng proc e ss Th e e xac t ch e mical .

r e ac t ions wh i ch t ak e plac e in t h e u se of chlorid e of lim e ar e no t

t hOro u gh f y und e rs t ood t hough t h
,
e y hav e b e e n t h e subj e c t of
much inve s t igat ion It is prob abl e t hat wh e n chlor i d e Of lim e is
.

dissolv e d in wat e r calcium chlorid e (Ca Cl ) hypochlorous acid

, z ,

( H C l O ) and
,
calci um oxid e ( C a O ) a r e form e d as follows ,

2 Ca O C12 + H, O Ca C12 + 2 HClO Ca O .

‘
He nc e t h e bl e ac h ing liquor , as us e d may b e consid e r e d as a solu
,

t ion of hypochlorous acid ; t h e calci um chlorid e produc e s no e ffe c t

in bl e aching No doub t a por t ion of t h e lim e also r e mains in
.

solu t ion as calcium hypochlor i t e Th e insolubl e c al

c i u m oxid e is fil t e r e d o ff (or s e t t l e d o u t ) b e for e t h e bl e aching

liquor is us e d Hypochlorous acid is a ve ry uns t abl e subs t anc e

.

( e sp e cially in t h e pr e s e nc e of organic ma t t e r such as t h e fibr e s ) , ,

and i t r e adily d e compose s in t o wat e r an d an oxid e of chlorin e

G I
( 0 ) as follows
2 ,

2 H ClO HzO Cl .

Th e l att e r is a s t rong oxidan t as i t spli t s up in t o chlorin e and

,

fr e e oxyge n : Cl ( 312 + O .

Th echlorin e t hus lib e rat e d r e ac t s wi t h t h e wa t e r pr e s e n t to form

hydroc hloric acid and ano t h e r por t ion of fre e oxyg e n
CI2 + H, O 2 HCl O .

Und e r c e r t ain condi t ions i t is probabl e t hat t h e hypochlorous

acid d e compos e s dir e c t ly in t o hydrochloric acid and oxyg e n
HClO Hc l O .
4 8 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEMIS TR Y .

Solu t ions of bl e ac h ing powd e r are b e st pr e pare d by firs t

grinding t h e powd e r wi t h a small quan t i t y of cold wat e r un t il a
t h in uniform pas t e is O b t ain e d and t h e n d i lu t ing wi t h cold wa t e r
,

and allowing t o se t t le un t il t h e liquor i s cl e ar A conc e n t rat e d .

solu t ion of ble aching powd e r will S how a d e nsi t y of abou t 1 8 Tw °

.

For t h e pr e parat ion of t h e bl e ac h ing bat h t h is i s dilu t e d t o abou t

2 Tw Car e should b e t ak e n t hat no undissolve d p ar t i cl e s of
°
.

ble ac h ing powd e r pass in t o t h e ble aching bat h o t h e rwise t h e ,

co tt on may b e com e t e nd e r e d in spo t s It is also n e c e ssary t h at .

t h e mat e rial b e compl e t e ly imm e rs e d in t h e solu t ion during t h e

bl e ac h ing for und e r t he influ e nc e of t h e oxyge n O f th e air t h e
,

bl e aching liquor will s e riously w e ak e n t he co t t on Th e t e m .

r a t u r e of t h e bl e aching ba t h should always b e cold ; i t i s only

p e

in e xc e p t ional case s wh e re low grad e mat e rial i s t r e a t e d t hat t h e

bl e aching li quor i s e ve r warm e d and e ve n t h e n only t o abou t
,

1 00
°
F Th e t im e of imm e rsion of t h e co t t on in t h e bl e aching
.

solu t ion should b e from o ne h alf t o o ne hour ; t o o long a t r e a t

-

m e n t will cause a t e nd e ring of t h e fibr e .

5 Th e Aci d Tr e a tm e n t
. Wh e n t he co t t on com e s from t he
.

s olu t ion of bl e aching powd e r i t con t ains a consid e rabl e amoun t

of lim e compounds par t ly as c alcium hypochlori t e and p ar t ly

,

as c alcium oxid e ; t h e r e i s also pr e se n t calcium chlorid e Th e .

”
acid t r e a t m e n t (g e n e rally known as souring ) i s for t h e purpos e
of d e composing t h e calcium hypochlori t e and t h e calcium oxid e :
c a ( o c 1) , H, SO , Ca SO , 2HClO .

Ca O H, SO , Ca S O , H, O .

In t h e fi rs t cas e hypochlorous acid i s form e d which fur t h e rs

and compl e t e s t h e bl e aching In bo t h case s calcium sulpha t e
.

( gypsum ) is form e d as a whi t e fin e ly divid e d t hough,

insolubl e , ,

powd e r This is qui t e e asily r e mov e d from t h e fibr e by s u b s e

.

qu e n t washing and b e ing O f a ve ry n e u t ral c h arac t e r has no

, ,

ac t ion on t h e co t t on As a r ul e t h e co t t on com e s up much

.
,

wh i t e r aft e r t h e souring and t h e e volu t ion of fr e e chlorin e gas i s

,

v e ry e vid e n t The souring is usually don e in a cold ba t h of

.

sulphuric acid of 1 Tw d e nsi t y St ronge r solu t ions are no t

°
. .
 BLEACH I N G OF CO TTO N .
49

advisabl e as t h e y are li abl e t o w e ak e n t h e co tt on Hydrochloric

, .

acid may b e us e d t o r e plac e t h e sulphuric in which cas e calci um ,

chlorid e will b e form e d which i s a v e ry solubl e sal t and i s mor e

,

e asily r e mov e d from t h e fibr e t han t h e insolubl e calcium sulpha t e .

TO ob t ain an e quivale n t acid s t r e ng t h abou t par t s by w e igh t

o f hydrochloric acid should b e use d for 1 par t by w e igh t of
sulphuric acid In cas e t he boiling o u t ble aching e t c ar e
.
-
, ,
.
,

c arri e d o u t in machin e s con t aining copp e r or bron z e a small

amoun t of copp e r sal t will b e form e d which wi t h sulphuric acid
will produc e an insolubl e pre cipi t at e O f a doubl e sulphat e of
copp e r and calcium Thi s will b e com e fi x e d in t h e co t t on and
.

i s ve ry diffi cul t t o r e mov e If hydrochloric acid how e v e r i s us e d

.
, , ,

no insolubl e pr e cipi t at e will b e form e d and t h e copp e r sal t i s ,

e asily wash e d away .

.6 Was hi ng . Imm e di at e ly following t h e souring t h e co t t on

S hould b e t horoughly wash e d wi t h fr e sh wa t e r in ord e r t o re mov e

as far as possibl e all of t h e acid Should t h e washing b e d e lay e d

.

for any l e ngt h of t im e t h e r e i s d ang e r of por t ions of t h e bl e ach e d

mat e ri al b e coming dry which wi ll caus e t e nd e r spo t s t o form
,
.

Th e washing should b e con t inu e d un t il t he pr e s e nc e of acid is no

long e r e vid e n t ; t his may b e shown by t e s t ing t h e co t t on wi t h a .

pi e c e of blu e li t mus pap e r which will t urn r e d if any acid i s

,

pr e s e n t Th e washing i s al so for t h e purpos e O f r e moving t h e

.

sulpha t e of c alcium which is p r e cipi t at e d in t h e co t t on during t h e

souring Th e chlorin e which is ge n e ra t e d in t h e ma t e ri al during
.

t h e sam e proc e ss i s al so r e mov e d by t h e washing and car e should ,

b e t ak e n t o e liminat e i t v e ry t horoughly o t h e rwis e t h e co t t on will

,

subs e qu e n t ly b e w e ak e n e d by ove r oxidat ion and t h e format ion

-

o f acid in t h e fi br e Th e pre s e nc e of chlorin e in t h e co t t on

.

may b e t e s t e d for by a mixe d solu t ion of po t assium iodid e and

s t ar ch pas t e which will give a blu e color wi t h a t rac e of chlorid e
,
.

This t e s t d e p e nds on t he fac t t ha t chlorin e lib e rat e s iodin e

from po t assium iod i d e and t h e fr e e iodin e combin e s wi t h t h e
,

st arch t o form a compound wi t h an in t e ns e ly blu e color .

.
7 So a pi n g an d Ti nt i ng Th e fi nal op e rat ion e ss e n t ial t o t he
.

bl e aching o f co tt on is t hat of so aping For t his purpos e t he .

5 0 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

mat e rial is t r e at e d in a dilu t e luk e warm solu t ion of soap The .

lat t e r should b e of good quali t y and fr e e from any ingr e di e n t s

liabl e t o cause discolorat ions in t h e dri e d and finish e d bl e ach .

Th e obj e c t of t h e soaping is pri marily t o s oft e n t h e co tt on which ,

will have acquir e d consid e rable h ars h n e ss in t he boiling o u t -

,

bl e aching and acid t r e a t m e n t s It also has t he purpose of

,
.

n e u t rali z ing absolu t e ly all t rac e of acid in t h e co t t on and t hus ,

pr e ve n t ing subs e qu e n t t e nd e ring In t he soap b at h i t i s also

.

c us t omary t o add a small quan t i t y of a blu e dy e s t u f f such as ,

Co tt on B lu e M e t hyl e n e B lu e Solubl e Prussian B lu e (bl e ac h e r s

’
, ,

t in t ) e t c for t h e purpos e of t i nt i ng t h e bl e ach e d whi t e t o a sa t i s

,
.
,

fac t ory bluish t on e In cas e a cr e am whi t e bl e ach is d e sir e d t h e

.
-
,

t in t ing i s om i t t e d C ar e mus t b e had no t t o t i n t t h e co t t on t o o

.

s t rongly o t h e rwis e t h e ma t e rial will app e ar dull and dir t y

,
.

In t h e e n t ire proc e ss of bl e aching t h e co t t on W ,

i ll lose in w e igh t
abou t 5 t o 7 pe r c e n t If prope rly ble ach e d t h e loss in t e nsil e
.

s t r e ng t h should no t b e ove r 5 p e r c e n t Th e e las t ici t y will b e .

som e what l e ss t han t ha t of t h e unble ach e d co t t on The t e nd e ring .

of co t t on in ble aching may b e d u e t o s e ve ral cause s :

( )
I O xida t ion caus e d by e xposur e t o t h e air during t h e boil i ng
o ut
p roc e ss If.a sk e in of co t t on yarn i s so hung as t o b e par t ly

susp e nd e d in a solu t ion of caus t ic soda and boile d t hus for som e
t im e i t w i ll b e found t o b e s e riously w e ak e n e d a t t ha t par t w h e r e
,

i t com e s in t o con t ac t simul t an e ously wi t h t h e alkal i n e liquor

and t h e air .

( )
2 O x i d a t ion d u e t o t h e u s e of t o o s t rong a solu t ion of bl e ach

ing po wd e r or t o i t s b e coming ov e rh e a t e d
,
.

(3 ) T h e drying of ac i d i n t h e fibr e or of p ar t icl e s of lim e from

s e dim e n t in t h e bl e aching b at h .

Th e oxida t ion of co t t on l e ads t o t h e forma t ion of a subs t anc e

known as o x ycellu lo s e which is s t ruc t ur e l e ss and pliabl e in
,

charac t e r h e nc e i t s forma t ion l e ads t o a w e ak e ning of t h e fibre

, .

Th e pre s e nc e of oxyc e llulose may usually b e r e cogni z e d by

st ai ning t h e co t t on wi t h a dilu t e solu t ion of Me t hyle n e B lu e ;
ordinary co t t on has b u t slig h t a ffini t y for t his coloring mat t e r -
,

wh e r e as oxyc e llulos e is s t rongly dy e d .

 BLEACH IN G OF CO TTO N .
SI
,

8 . Us e o f “
An ti c h l o r -
As t he p e rfe c t r e moval of t h e
.
”

chlorin e from t h e co t t on i s v e ry di fficul t by simply washing wi t h

wa t e r i t is som e t im e s e xp e di e n t t o n e u t rali ze t h e fr ee chlorin e wi t h
,

a sui t able ch e mical ag e n t Th e chi e f subst anc e s use d as an t i

.

”
chlors are sodium hyposulphi t e (NaZ S O 3 ) and sodium b i sul Z

p h i t e ( N a H SO ) T h
s
e r
. e ac t ions in t h e t w o cas e s a r e as follows
Na, S, O s + 4 Cl, + 5 H, O N a, S O , + H, SO 4 + 8 HCl .

2 N aHSO , + 2 Cl, + 2 H, O N azSO , + 4 Hc l H28 0 4 .

Aft e r t r e a t m e n t wi t h an t i chlor t he bl e ach e d co t t on should b e

-

w e ll wash e d and soap e d for i t will b e no t ic e d from t h e abov e

,

r e ac t ions t hat acid i s form e d in bo t h cas e s .

9 . B l eac h i n g Lo o se Co tt on L oos e co t t on.is s e ldom bl e ach e d

for purpose s of spinning as t he bl e aching op e ra t ion co n si d
,

e r ab ly d e t e riora t e s t h e spinning qu ali t i e s of t h e fibr e This .

i s d u e t o t h e fac t t ha t in t h e ble aching t he waxy ma t t e rs a re !

r e move d and h e nc e t h e fibr e b e com e s l e ss plas t ic and coh e r e n t

, ,

b e sid e s b e ing mor e bri tt l e Som e t im e s how e v e r co tt on in t h e

.

.
, ,

half spun condi t ion is bl e ach e d and t h e r e are m e ch anical d e vic e s

—
,

ava i labl e for t h e prop e r bl e aching of co t t on roving and slubbing .

A cold m e t hod for bl e aching loos e co t t on has b e e n propos e d

w h e r e in t h e co t t on i s firs t t r e at e d in a sui t abl e machin e so t h at
cold wat e r i s forc e d t hrough t he mass und e r consid e rable pr e ssur e ;
t h e n a cold solu t ion of bl e aching powd e r is circula t e d t hrough

t h e co t t on and subs e qu e n t ly dilu t e acid follow e d by a t horough

, ,

washing and soaping Th is m e t hod i s sa i d t o l e av e t h e co t t on

.

almos t unimpair e d as t o i t s spinning quali t i e s Such a proc e ss is .

at t aining cons i d e rabl e prac t ical valu e for t h e spinning of filling

cops from bl e ach e d s t ock .

L oos e co tt on how e v e r is larg e ly bl e ach e d for u se as m e dici n

, ,
al
a b s o r b e nt co t t o n Th e O bj e c t in vi e w in t his c as e is no t only t o
.

ob t ain a whi t e and pur e fi br e b u t also t o mak e i t highly absorb e n t

,

of liquids In fac t t h e purpos e is no t so much t o bl e ach t h e

.
,

co t t on in t h e s e ns e of d e s t roying t h e color as t o r e move all ,

impuri t i e s from t h e fibr e which may in any mann e r in t e rfe r e wi t h

i t s r e a dy absorp t ion of liquids He nc e t he chi e f op e ra t ion i s a
.
,
5 2 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEMIS TR Y .

v e ry t horough boiling o u t t o r e mov e p e rfe c t ly t he waxy and

-

r e sinous ma tt e rs For t his purpos e t h e co t ton is boile d in a com

.

a r a t i v e ly s t rong solu t ion of caus t i c soda und e r pr e ssur e for 8 t o

p
1 0 hours . Aft e r t h is t r e a t m e n t i t is bl e ach e d in t h e usual mann e r
wi t h chlorid e of lim e and sulphuric acid Th e qu ali t y of absorb .

e n t co t t on is t e s t e d by t h e r e adin e ss wi t h which i t sinks in wa t e r .

10. Ble a chi n g wi t h A ce ti c A ci d .

—
In som e cas e s co t t on is
bl e ach e d wi t h t he u se of ac e t ic rat h e r t han sulphuric acid .

Ac e t ic acid is l e ss liabl e t o cause t e nd e ring of t he fibr e and t he ,

acid may b e add e d dir e c t ly t o t h e bat h of chlorid e of lim e t hough ,

t his c aus e s a consid e rabl e loss of chlorin e O t h e rwis e t h e ac e t ic

.

acid ac t s in t h e sam e mann e r as sulphuric acid Alt hough t h i s .

m e t hod has b e e n s t rongly advocat e d by som e ch e mis t s i t do e s no t

s e e m t o have acquir e d much prac t ical impor t anc e .

1 1
. B l e a c hi ng wi th So di um Hypo c hlo ri t e — Th i s r e age n t i s
.

“ ”
also known as chlorid e of soda and corr e sponds t o chlorid e o f
,

lim e in i t s ble aching prop e r t i e s It may conve ni e n t ly b e pre

.

par e d by adding a solu t ion of soda ash t o o ne of chlorid e of lim e

un t il no fur t h e r pr e cipi t at ion t ake s plac e The whi t e s e dim e n t
.

of c alcium carbonat e i s allowe d t o s e t t le and t he cl e a r liquor

con t aining sodium hypoc hlori t e in solu t ion is drawn o ff and us e d
for ble aching It is some t im e s us e d for t he ble aching of fine
.

and d e lic a t e fabrics and wh e r e i t is no t d e sirable t o in t roduc e any

lim e in t o t he co t t on .

A ble aching age n t similar t o sod i um hypochlori t e i s pr e par e d

by sat urat ing a cold solu t ion of caus t i c soda wi t h chlorin e gas .

This solu t ion i s pr e par e d und e r a vari e t y of nam e s such as

c hlo ro zo ne o x chlo ri ne t I t usually has a pink color
, y ,
e. c ,

d u e t o t h e pr e s e nc e of c e r t ain impuri t i e s in t h e caus t ic sod a

fo rming colore d salt s wi t h t he chlorin e It is us e d in t h e sam e
.

mann e r as sodium h ypochlori t e and is a v e ry e ffici e n t bl e ach i ng

age n t Solu t ions of sodium hypoc h lori t e pre p ar e d e l e c t roly t i cally
.

by t h e ac t ion o f t h e e l e c t ric curr e n t on a solu t ion of common

sal t are also e mploy e d in bl e aching It i s claim e d t hat liquors
.

t hus pr e par e d S how a much high e r bl e aching e ffi ci e ncy t han

ordinary solu t ions of sod i um hypochlori t e .
54 D YE N G AN D I TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

86 . Wha t is chlo ri de o f li m e ? Unde r wh at o t h e r na m e s i s i t k w no n in

bl e a chi n g?
87 . E pl
x ai n t he i
v a r o u s ch e mi ca l re a ct i o ns ta in k g pl ace wh en bl ea chi ng

wi t h chlo ri de o f li me .

88 . Wh a t re a ct i o n o ccu r s wh en chlo ri de o f li m e i s d i sso lv e d i n w ate r ?

Ho w bl hi g p wd
are ea c n o e r so lu t i o n s p p re a re d ?
8 9 At w h t d n i t y i t h
. a e s s e so lu t i o n o f chlo ri de o f li m e u su a ll y em pl y o ed fo r
bl h ing p p ? Why
eac ur o se s sh o u ld t he co tt o n be co p
m le t e l y i m me rse d i n t h e
li q uo r ?
90 . Fo r wh at le n t h g o f t i me i s t h e co t t o n s t ee e d p i n t he bl e a chi n g p wd o er

so lu t i o n a nd a t wh at p
t e m e ra t u re ?

9 1 . Is t h e d e co lo ri za t i o n o f t he co t t o n co p
m le t e a ft e r s t e e pi g in n t he ch e mi c
so lu t i o n ? What a ft e r -t rea t m e nt is ne ce ssa r y?
92 . Wh a t
”
i s m e a nt by a
“
so u r
”
? Ho w i s t he so uri n gd o ne ? p
Ex lai n t he
rea ct i o n o f sul h uri c p a ci d o n chlo ri de o f li me .

93 . The p y dfa ci d soi ng i d t w h t t ngt h ? Th

lu t i o n e m lo e o r so ur s u se a a s re e

o d f wh t g
o r o i n t i d wh n t h
a tt as i d?
s o ce e e co o n s so u re

9 4 Why i i t n
. y t w h th tt s y t h ghly ft
e ce ssa r i ng ? o as e co o n ve r o ro u a e r so u r

H w w ld y
o t t f
o u th p n f i d i n t h bl
o u es h d tt
o r ? F th e re se ce o ac e eac e co o n o r e

p n f hl i n ?
re se ce o c o r e

95 H w i t h t t l t i n f d t t i ng hl i
. o s e p p d ? E pl i n t h
es so u o o r e ec c o r ne re a re x a e

r ti n whi h t k
eac o pl i n t h i t t
c a es a ce s es .

96 H w m h d
. o tt y l i n w igh t by bl hi g ? If p p ly
uc o e s co o n a rn o se e eac n ro er

bl h d d
e ac e tt n y n l m h i t
o e s co il t gt h ?
o ar o se uc n e ns e s re n

97 Gi . t h d i ff ntve w hi h m y l d t t h t d i g f t t n i n
e e re ca u se s c a ea o e en er n o co o

th e op ti n f bl hi ng Wh t i y ll l
e ra o s o d h w m y it p
ea c . a s o x ce u o se , a n o a s re se n ce

i n bl h de ac tt n b d t t d ?
e co o e e ec e

9 8 Wh t i m nt by d f wh t p p i i t m pl y d
“ ”
. a nt i hl s ea an a -
c o r, an o r a u r o se s e o e

i n bl h i g ? Wh t nt i hl
ea c n h i fly d ? E pl i n th
a h mi t y f
a -
c o r s a re c e u se x a e c e s r o

t he i r a ct i o n .

99 . Fo r wh t p p a ur o se i s lo o se co t to n fly bl
chi e e a ch e d ? Ho w i s t h e bl ea ch

i ng ca rri e d o u t ? Wh at i s t h e di ffe re nce in th b h e e avi o r to w a rd s c o ld w t a er o f

lo o se raw co tt o n a nd lo o se bl e a ch e d co t to n ?
1 00 . Ho w i s b le a ch e d co t t o n t i nt e d ? A b o ut h o w m u ch d y f
e s t uf is re q u i re d
fo r p p ro er ti nti n ? g
1 01 . Wh at i s t he p p ur o se o f
“
so ft e ni n g bl ”
e a ch e d co t t o n, a nd ho w i s t hi s
d o ne ?
1 02 . In wh manne r m ay
at co tt o n b e bl e a ch e d wi t h t h e u se o f a ce ti c a ci d ?
Explai n t he ch e m i s t r o f t h i s y p ro ce s s .

1 03 . Ho w i s co t to n b o ile d -
o ut wi t h li me ? What t re a t me nt is ne ce ssa r y
a ft e r t he b o i li n g -
o u t , a nd wh y ? Why h a s ihe li me b o il b e e n re co mme nde d ?
1 04 . Wh a t is so di u m h yp o chlo ri t e ? Ho w i s i t p p re a re d ? Ho w i s i t
'

em pl y o ed fo r t h e bl ea ch i n g o f co t t o n ?
 BLEACH IN G OF CO TTON .
55

p wi t h
-

5 . Ho w do e s so di u m h ypo chl o ri t e
'
co m a re chlo ri de o f li m e as a

chi n g g a e nt ?
6 . Wh at di ffe re nce i s t o b e no t i ce d i n t he u se o f sulph u ri c a nd y
h d ro
ri c a cids i n the bl e achi n g o f co tt o n ? Gi v e t h e ch e mi ca l re act i o ns wh i ch

pl a ce in b o th ca se s .

7 . Wh at a re Chl o ro zo ne a nd y
o x chlo ri ne ? Ho w ar e t h e se p p
re are d ?
are t he y em pl y
o ed in bl e a ch i n g?
 S E CT I O N V .

C L A SS IF ICATION OF DYES .

Expe ri m e n t 3 1 Acti o n o f Aci d Dy e s

. Pr e par e a b at h con
.

t aining 3 00 cc of wa t e r and 5 cc of F o r m yl Viole t solu t ion

. . T ak e .

a scour e d t e st ske in of wool e n yarn we t i t o u t wi t h warm wa t e r

-
, ,

and plac e i t in t h e abov e ba t h ; boil for o ne half hour ; t h e n wash -

w e ll in fr e sh wat e r and dry R e p e a t t his t e s t using a b a t h ,

con t aining 300 cc of wat e r 5 cc of F o rm yl Viole t solu t ion and

.
,
.
,

1 0 cc . of sulphuric acid solu t ion It will b e found t hat in t h e

.

firs t t e st t he wool i s only sligh t ly dy e d wh e re as in t h e s e cond ,

t e s t i t is w e ll dy e d R e p e a t t h e s e cond t e s t using a we t o u t ,
-

t e s t sk e in of co t t on yarn ; wash w e ll and dry

-
It wi ll b e
found t hat t he co t t on i s only sligh t ly t in t e d by t h e acid dy e s t u ff .

R e p e at t he t e s t again using a sk e in of boil e d O ff silk and i t will

,
-
,

b e found t ha t t h e silk (7 1 ) is dy e d lik e t h e wool .

Ex pe ri m e nt 3 2 Ac ti o n o f B as i c Dy e s
. Pr e par e a ba t h .

con t aining 300 cc of wa t e r and 1 0 cc of M age n t a solu t ion

. .
,

and boil a t e s t ske in of wool e n yarn t h e r e in for o ne half hour

- -
,

t h e n wash w e ll and dry It will b e no t ic e d t ha t t h e dy e s t uff

is t ake n up by t h e wool dir e c t ly R e p e at t he t e s t using a sk e in of
.
,

silk It will b e found t ha t t he silk (7 3 ) al so dye s dir e c t ly wi t h

.

t h e basic coloring ma tt e r
-
R e p e at t he t e st again using a sk e in of
.
,

co t t on yarn It will b e found t hat in t his cas e t h e co tt on (7 4 ) i s

.

only sligh t ly t in t e d wi t h t h e dy e st u ff Tak e a s e cond sk e in of

.

co t t on and work i t for o ne half hour in a bat h con t aining 300 cc

-
.

of wat e r and 1 0 cc of t annic acid solu t ion a t 1 80 F Squ e e ze

.
°
.
,

and t h e n d ye as b e for e d e scrib e d in a fr e sh bat h It will now b e .

found t hat t he t re at e d co tt on (7 5 ) will combin e wi t h t h e basic

dy e st u ff .

Expe ri m e nt 3 3 Ac t i o n o f Su b s tanti ve Dy es
. Pr e par e a .

d y e bat h con t aining 3 00 cc of wa t e r and 1 0 cc of a solu t ion of

-
. .

56
 CL ASS IF I CA TI O N OF D YES .
57

B e n z opurpurin 4 B , and boil a t e s t sk e in of wool t h e r e in for

-

o ne half
-
hour t h e n wash w e ll and dry
,
It will b e
no t ic e d t ha t t h e wool combin e s dir e c t ly wi t h t h e subst an t ive
d ye s t u fl
’
.

R e p e at t he using a sk e in of silk and i t will b e found t hat

t e st , ,

t h e silk will also b e dy e d R e p e a t t h e t e s t again using ,

a sk e in of co t t on yarn ; t he co t t on will also b e dy e d

Ex pe ri m e n t 3 4 Acti o
. n o f M r an t
o d D ye s — Dye a sk e in of .

wool e n yarn in a ba t h con t aining 3 00 cc of wa t e r and 1 0 cc of . .

Ali z arin R ed ; boil for o ne half hour It i s found t hat t he dy e st uff

-
.

i s no t t ake n up t o any e x t e n t by t h e fibr e B oil a s e cond

sk e in of wool e n yarn in a bat h con t aining 1 0 cc of chrom e .

solu t ion (po t assium bichromat e ) for o ne half hour ; t h e n rins e -

and d ye as above give n Th e dy e s t u ff will now b e absorb e d

by t he mordan t e d wool combining wi t h t he chromi u m oxid e in
,

t h e fibr e t o form a color lak e Dye a sk e in of co t t on yarn wi t h

-
.

Ali z arin Re d in t h e abov e mann e r ; i t will b e found t hat t h e fibr e

has no a t t rac t ion for t he dye s t u ff Mord an t a s e cond ske in
of co t t on yarn by working in a cold solu t ion con t aining 2 0 0 cc .

O f wa t e r and 5 grams of fe rric Chlorid e for 1 0 minu t e s ; squ e e z e

and pass t hrough a cold solu t ion con t aining 2 0 0 cc of wat e r .

and 2 grams of soda ash Thi s furnish e s a d e posi t of iron oxid e

.

on t h e fi br e and give s t h e lat t e r a bu ff color No w d y e

t hi s mordan t e d sk e in in t h e above mann e r wi t h Ali z a rin Re d and ,

i t will b e found t ha t t h e dy e s t u ff i s absorb e d a nd t h e co t t on

b e com e s dy e d Dye a sk e in of silk wi t h t h e solu t ion o f
Ali z arin R e d ; i t will b e no t ic e d t hat Silk i s Si m i lar t o wool and
Co t t on and is nOt dy e d (84 ) by t h e ali z arin d y e
,
Mordan t a .

s e cond sk e in of silk wi t h chrom e in t h e sam e mann e r as was us e d

for wool and t h e n d ye wi t h t h e Ali z arin R e d It will b e found
,
.

t ha t t h e mordan t e d silk lik e t h e wool will combin e wi t h t h e

,

dy e s t u ff .

Exp eri m e nt 3 5 Acti o n o f Pi gm e nt Dy e s

. Work a sk e in o f
.

co t t on ya rn for 1 5 minu t e s in a cold so lu t ion con t aining 2 00 cc

“
.

of wat e r and 5 grams of l e ad ac e t a t e Squ e e ze and t h e n work for

.

1 5 minu t e s in a s e cond cold solu t ion con t aining 2 0 0 cc of wa t e r .

 58 D YE I N G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

a nd grams of po t assium bichromat e

2 Wash w e ll and dry .

A y e llo w pigme n t consis t ing of Chrom e y e llow (chromat e

o f l e ad ) will b e form e d in t h e fibr e t hrough t h e ch e mical r e ac t ion

b e t we e n t h e l e ad ac e t a t e and t he po t assium bichromat e This .

p i gme n t is pur e ly of min e ral n at ur e and is simply d e posi t e d in t h e

c e lls of t h e fibr e s and do e s no t combin e wi t h t he subs t anc e of t h e

fibr e i t s e lf as i s t h e cas e wi t h t he o t h e r m e t hods of dy e ing

,
.

NOTES .

1 . Ge n e r al Cl as si ficati o n o f Dy e s t uffs . Wi t h re sp e c t to

t h e ir g e n e ral prop e r t i e s n e arly all coloring ma t t e rs may -

be
d iv i d e d in t o four g e n e r al classe s as follows ,

( )
a Acid Dy e s .
( ) c Subs t an t ive Dye s .

( )
b B asic D y e s . d
( ) M ordan t Dy e s .

T his classificat ion in a ge n e ral way is bas e d on t he ch e mic al

n at ur e of t h e dye s t u ff and i t s r e ac t ion t owards t he fi bre The .

following i s a bri e f summary of t h e s e prop e r t i e s

( ) Acid D
a y es . Sa lt s o f co lo r -
a cid s ; d ye a ni m al fib res y
di re ct l ; d o no t dye
ve g t bl fib
e a e re s ; m o s tl y ppli a ed to w o o l a nd s i l k .

(b ) B as i c Dyes . Salt s o f co lo r- ba se s ; d ye a ni m al fib re s y
di re ct l ; dye ve
ge
b fib
t a le re s o n a t a nni n m o rd ant ; m o s tl y ppli
a ed t o co t t o n a nd s i l k .

(c) S u bs ta nti v e Dyes O f ne ut ra l ch e m i ca l na t u re ; dye o t h a ni mal

. b a nd

g b fib
v e e t a le re s d i re ct l ; mo st l a y y pp
li e d t o co t t o n a nd so me h a t t o o t h w b w oo l
k
a nd s i l .

(d) Mo rdant Dy es . Of ne ut ra l ch e m i ca l n a t u re ; dye ne i t he r a n i m a l no r

ve g t bl fib
e a e re s di re ct l y ,
b ut re q ui re a m e t alli c m o rda nt ; m o st l y ppli a ed to
wo o l .

The gre at majori t y of t he dy e st uffs use d a t t he pre se n t t ime

are d e riv e d from co al t ar ,
t he ve g e t abl e dy e s wi t h fe w e xc e p t ions
, ,

b e ing almos t O bsol e t e .

(a ) Acid Dyes Mo stly de ri ve d fro m azo co m po und s o f be nze ne

. .

( b ) B as i c Dyes Mo stly d eri v e d fro m a nili ne

. .

(c) S ub s tanti v e Dy es Mo stly d e ri v e d fro m be nz i di ne

. .

( d) Mardant Dyes Mo stly de ri ve d fro m anthracene

. .
 CL AS S IF I CA TI O N OF D YES .
9

Pr e vio us t o t h e di scove ry of t he coal t ar dy e s t h e coloring -

,

ma tt e rs e mploy e d w e r e of e i t h e r ve g e t abl e or min e ral origin .

Vegeta ble Dy es
(a ) . Lo gw o o d , fu st i c , h yp
e rn i c, co chi ne a l, m a dd e r, cu t ch ,

w
ca m o o d , e t c .

(b ) Mi neral Dyes . Iro n bl k ac ,

i ro n b f,
uf m an g a n e se bi s t re , ch ro me y e llo w ,

Th e firs t coal t ar dy e s t u ff was discov e r e d in 1 8 5 6 by P e rkin ;

-

i t was known as M auv e and was soon follow e d by o t h e r anilin e

,
“ ”
dy e s It is wrong how e ve r t o apply t h e t e rm anilin e colors t o
.
, ,

all coal t ar dy e s as t h e r e are now many which ar e no t d e riv e d

-
,

from anilin e .

F or t h e sam e amoun t of coloring ma tt e r t h e coal t ar dy e s - -

a re much ch e ap e r t han t h e v e g e t abl e colors ; t h e y hav e also

far gr e a t e r in t e nsi t y of color a re much brigh t e r and in g e n e ral are

, ,

fas t e r .

B as e d on t h e ir ge n e ral m e t hods of appl i ca t ion we may classify ,

prac t ically all of t h e dye s use d at t he pr e s e n t t im e in t o t he follow

ing groups
( )
a A c i d d y e s such as
,
Acid Viol e t N aph t hol Y e llo w e t c , ,
.

( )
b B a s i c d y e s such as
,
M ag e n t a M e t hyl e n e B lu e e t c , ,
.

( )
6 M o r d a n t d yes such as Ali z arin
,
R e d G allocyanin e e t c , ,
.

d
( ) A f t e r ch r o-
m e d d y e s such as C h r o m o t rO, p D i amond B lac k , ,

e tc .

( )e S u bs t a nti v e dyes , such as B e n z opurpurin , Chrysoph e nin e ,

e tc .

(j ) Dev elo p ed dye s , such as Diamin e B lack B H, Prim ul in e , e tc .

(g ) N a pht ho l dyes ,
such as Parani t ranilin e R e d e t c ,
.

h
( ) Co u p le d dyes such as B e n z o N i t rol B rown e t c
, ,
.

()
i S u lp hu r dye s such as Imm e dial B lack K a t i ge n G r e e n e t c
, , , .

(7) Va t dye s such as Indigo Indan t hr e n e B lu e e t c

, , ,
.

( )
It O x i di ze d dyes such as Anilin e B lack
Mi nera l pi g ment dyes such as Chro m
.
,

()l e Y e llow Prussian , ,

B lu e e tc,
.

Th e mos t impor t an t of t h e s e class e s and t hos e con t aining t h e ,

gre at e s t numb e r and t he mos t dive rsifi e d colors are t he fo ur ,

groups m e n t ion e d in t he firs t paragraph of t hi s s e c t ion .

60 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

Th e a ci d princip ally use d for t he dy e ing of wool and

dyes a re

s ilk and only t o a limi t e d e x t e n t for t h e dy e ing of co t t on or o t h e r

,

ve ge t abl e fibr e s Th e y are appli e d t o t h e animal fibr e s in bat hs

.

con t aining e i t h e r s ulphuric acid or ac e t ic acid Th e ba si c dyes .

are us e d chi e fly for t h e dy e ing of co tt on and silk ; only a fe w

m e mb e rs of t his group a re us e d in wool dy e ing Th e y a r e -

.

appli e d t o t h e animal fibr e s dir e c t ly from n e u t ral bat hs For .

co t t on or o t h e r v e g e t abl e fibr e s a mordan t of an acid charac t e r

, ,

(such as t annic acid ) i s r e quir e d Th e mo r da nt dyes ar e almos t .

e xclusiv e ly us e d for t h e dy e ing of wool wi t h t h e e xc e p t ion of ,

Ali z arin Re d which is also larg e ly us e d for t he dye ing of co t t on

,

( for Turk e y r e d )-
Th e s e dy
. e s do n o t hav e a dir e c t a f
f i n i t y for
any of t he fibr e s and r e quire t he u se of a m e t allic mord an t
,

( usually po t assium bichroma t e ) in t h e ir applica t ion T h e a f t e r .

c hro me d dyes a r e v e ry similar t o t h e mordan t dy e s in t h e ir g e n e ral

charac t e ris t ics b ut t he mordan t is appli e d aft e r t he dy e ing

,
.

Th e s e colors are use d e xclusive ly on wool and have a dire c t

a ffi ni t y for t his fibre t hough t he color so ob t ain e d as a rul e h as
, , ,

li t t l e v al ue The aft e r chroming proc e ss usually al t e rs t his color

.
-

consid e rably and give s i t fas t n e ss The s u bs ta nti ve dyes ar e .

so call e d b e caus e t h e y have a dir e c t a fli ni t y for all fibr e s Th e y .

ar e pri marily co t t on dy e s t hough t h e y a re also us e d t o som e

,

e x t e n t on wool and silk Th e y are appli e d in n e u t ral bat hs

. .

Th e dev elo p e d dye s are us e d almos t e xclusive ly on co tt on t hough ,

a fe w a re also applicabl e t o silk Th e y a re firs t dy e d in a m anne r

.

similar t o t h e subs t an t ive colors in a n e u t ral solu t ion ; t h e dy e d

mat e rial i s t h e n t r e at e d wi t h a solu t ion of ni t rous acid (ob t ain e d
by t he addi t ion of acid t o a solu t ion of sodi um ni t ri t e ) — a ,

proc e ss known as di a zo ti i ng and aft e rwards wi t h a solu t ion of

z —
,

b e t a naph t hol (or o t h e r similar body ) which is known as t he

-
,

dev e lo p er and from w h ich t his class of dy e s r e c e ive s i t s nam e

,
.

B y t h e s e op e rat ions a ne w dy e s t uff is buil t up in t h e fibr e Th e .

na p ht h o l d e s a re som e wha t similar in g e n e ral t o t h e pr e c e ding

y
group only t h e ord e r of t h e O p e rat ion s i s re ve rs e d Th e mat e rial
, .

t o b e dye d is firs t t r e a t e d w i t h a solu t ion of b e t a naph t hol (or —

o t h e r similar d e ve lop e r ) and t h e n wi t h a solu t ion of a di az o t i ze d

,
62 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

known as t he co lo r- la ke
is t hus produc e d The mecha ni cal .

t he o ry on t h e o t h e r hand consid e rs t h e e ffe c t of dy e ing t o b e

, ,

simply a d e po s i t o f color e d par t icle s in t h e subst anc e of t he fibr e

‘

and t he combinat ion so form e d t o b e m e r e ly a m e chanical mix

t ur e
. Th e Ch e mic al t h e ory i s suppor t e d by t he fac t s t ha t t he
animal fibr e s (wool and silk ) e xhibi t w e ll d e fine d ch e mical
-

r e ac t ivi t i e s of an acid and a basic charac t e r an d t ha t t h e s e fibre s ,

r e adily d ye wi t h t he acid and basic dy e s t uffs ; wh e re as co t t on which ,

i s prac t ically in e r t as far as ch e mic al r e ac t ivi t y is conc e rn e d ,

shows no pronounc e d at t rac t ion for t h e se dy e s ; b u t if an acid

mordan t is add e d t o t he co tt on fibr e t h e n t h e lat t e r e xhibi t s t he
pow e r of combining wi t h basic dy e s or i f a basic mordan t (a ,

m e t allic oxid e ) i s add e d t h e co t t on will b e abl e t o combin e wi t h

t h e acid dy e s Fur t h e rmor e in t h e cas e of mordan t dy e s t h e
.
, ,

combinat ion b e t w e e n t h e dy e s t uff and t h e mordan t may b e mad e

ind e p e nd e n t of t h e fibr e and a ch e mical r e ac t ion undoub t e dly
,

t ak e s plac e in t h e forma t ion of such a color lak e O n t he o t h e r -

.

hand i t may b e shown t hat t h e subs t an t ive colors d ye co t t on

,

qui t e r e adily wi t hou t any e vid e nc e of a ch e mic al r e ac t ion Also .

almos t any porous subs t anc e (e ve n such subs t anc e s as unglaze d

porc e lain fin e ly divid e d silica e t c ) will t ak e up a dy e s t u ff from
, ,
.

solut ion (e sp e cially t h e basic dy e s ) and b e com e t ruly dy e d t h e re by .

E v e n unmord an t e d co tt on wi ll d ye wi t h many of t h e acid and

basic dy e s i f conc e n t rat e d solu t ions are e mploy e d and t he colors ,

so ob t ain e d have a c e r t ain d e gr e e of fas t n e ss Wi t h t he pr e se n t .

knowl e dg e of dy e ing i t s e e ms more r e asonabl e t o a ssum e t hat

,

t h e subs t anc e of t h e fibr e s is capabl e of di ss o lv i ng such bodi e s

as dy e s t u ffs and mordan t s bringing abou t a condi t ion which we
,

know as s o li d s o lu ti o n which m e r e ly m e ans t hat o ne solid sub

,

st anc e i s dissolve d in ano t h e r solid According t o t his vi e w o f .

r e garding t h e ph e nom e na of dy e ing t he dissolve d coloring ,

matt e r in i t s wat e r solu t ion pass e s in t o a fib r e solu t ion Th e r e

- -
.

ar e many fac t ors influ e ncing t h e d e gr e e a nd rapidi t y of t his form

of solu t ion among which t h e mos t impor t an t app e ar t o b e t h e

,
.

Ch e mical ac t ivi t y e xis t ing b e t w e e n t h e dy e s t u ff (or mordan t ) and

t h e fibr e t h e h e a t ing of t h e dy e ba t h t h e pr e s e nc e of various
, .
-
,
 CL ASS IF I CA TI O N OF D Y ES . 63

ch e micals in t h e d y e bat h or fibr e and t he mass r e lat ions b e t w e e n

-
,
-

t h e fibr e t he d y e ba t h and t h e dy e s t u ff
,
-
,
.

Though w e canno t r e gard t h e c h e mical ac t ivi t y of t he fi br e

t oward t h e dy e s t u ff as primarily t h e caus e O f dy e ing ne ve r t h e ,

l e ss t h e r e can b e no doub t b u t t hat t his fac t or oft e n e xe r t s a

d e t e rmi ning influ e nc e in t h e proc e ss This is e sp e cially t rue
.

wh e n we consid e r t h e ch e mic al r e lat ions b e t w e e n t he acid

'

and b asic dye s and t he animal fibr e s wool and silk Th e .

ch e mic al combinat ion po ssibl e b e t w e e n t he fibr e and t h e

dy e s t u ff in t his cas e no doub t d e t e rmin e s t h e fi xat ion of t h e
sol u t ion of t h e coloring matt e r in t h e subs t anc e of t h e mat e rial
-

dy e d.

He a t also app e ars t o play an impor t an t r Ole in dy e ing as i t

‘

do e s in all forms of solu t ion B y e l e vat ing t h e t e mp e rat ur e t h e

.

mobili t y of t h e mol e cular aggr e gat e s of bo t h t h e dy e s t uff and

t h e fibr e is incr e as e d so as t o allow o f a mor e in t ima t e mix t ur e of
t h e s e mol e c ul e s wi t h o ne ano t h e r Th e rapidi t y and d e gr e e of
.

dy e ing i s n e arly always gr e at e r in a h o t d ye bat h t han in a cold -

o ne ; and t h e prop e r r e gula t ion of t his t e mp e ra t ur e p e rmi t s t h e

dy e r t o so r e gulat e t h e t aking up o f t h e color by t h e fibr e as t o

-

ob t ain e ve n and w e ll p e n e t ra t e d dy e ings

-
.

Th e pr e s e nc e o f c e r t ain ch e micals in t h e d ye ba t h also has an -

impor t an t influ e nc e in t h e r e gulat ion o f t h e dy e ing In t h e ca se .

of acid dy e s t h e pr e s e nc e of acid (such as sulphuric or ac e t ic )

,

lib e rat e s t h e fre e color acid from t h e dy e s t u ff sal t and t hus pro
-

mo t e s and acc e l e rat e s t h e dy e ing by allowing of t h e r e ady and

comple t e combinat ion b e t w e e n t h e fib re base and t his color acid - -
.

We may r e pre se n t t his r e ac t ion som e what in t h e following

graphical mann e r

color acid : soda

-
H SO ,, 4
color acid hydrog e n
-

dy e s t u ff sal t sulphuric acid fr ee color acid -

N a, SO ,
sodium sulphat e
Color —acid wool base -
color lake -
.
64 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

Th e basic dy e s app e ar t o b e com e d i ssoci at e d wh e n dissolv e d

in wat e r ; t hat i s t o say t h e color bas e of t h e s e dy e s b e com e s
,
-

spon t an e ously s e parat e d from t h e acid wi t h which i t i s combin e d

in t h e form of i t s dy e s t u ff sal t and t h e fr e e color base t hus form e d
- -

combine s r e adily wi t h t he acid compon e n t of t he fibr e t o form t h e

color lak e Th e re for e t h e basic dy e s can b e appli e d t o t h e animal
-
.

fibr e s in a n e u t ral d ye bat h As a rul e ho we v e r t h e y ar e t ak e n

-
.
, ,

up t o o rapidly by t h e fibr e t o allow of e ve n dye ing so t he bat h i s ,

usu al ly mad e sligh t ly acid (wi t h ac e t ic acid ) in ord e r t o r e t ard

t h e dy e ing ac t ion .

Th e pre s e nc e of gla u b e rs alt (or o t h e r n e u t ral sal t such as

common sal t ) app e ars t o influ e nc e t h e dy e ing r e ac t ion by mor e
-

p e rfe c t ly dis t ribu t ing t h e dy e st u ff mole cul e s t hrough t he fibre

subst anc e This i s mor e e sp e ci ally t ru e of i t s ac t ion in r e fe r e nc e
.

t o t h e acid and basic dy e s It may b e said t o imp e d e t h e progr e ss

.

of t h e dye s t u ff mol e cul e s in t h e ir passage from t he wa t e r solu t ion

t o t ha t of t h e fibr e The numb e r of gla u b e r s alt mol e cul e s i s
.

v e ry large compar e d wi t h t h e numb e r of t hose of t h e dy e s t uff ,

and h enc e i t s ac t ion m ay b e compar e d t o t h at of a larg e crowd of

p e opl e imp e ding t h e progr e ss of a man in walking t owards a d e fi
ni t e poin t Th e ac t ion of common sal t in t h e cas e of t h e sub
.
-

s t an t i v e dy e s app e ars t o assum e a som e wha t di ffe r e n t ch arac t e r ;

i t r educ e s t h e solubili t y of t h e dy e s t u ff in t h e liquid of t h e d y e

bat h and h e nc e incr e ase s i t s r e lat ive solubili t y in t h e fibre and ,

t hus h e lps t o e xhaus t t h e ba t h by forcing mor e color on t h e co t t on .

Th e ac t ion of t h e s e ch e micals app e ars t o b e abou t t h e sam e

are con t ain e d in t h e fibr e i t s e lf rat h e r t h an in t h e d y e

bat h If wool for e xampl e is t r e at e d wi t h sulphuric acid

.
, , ,

and wash e d i t app e ars t o r e t ain t h e sulphuric acid possibly in

,

some w e ak form of combinat ion If such wool i s plac e d in a .

b at h con t aining an acid dy e s t uff t h e dy e ing r e ac t ion will proc e e d

,

wi t hou t fur t h e r addi t ion of acid .

Th e mass r e lat ions e xis t ing b e t w e e n t h e fibre t h e d y e ba t h

-
,
-
,

and t h e dy e s t u ff also have an impor t an t influ e nc e in t h e dy e ing

r e ac t ion It would b e nat ural t o e xp e c t t hat t h e gre at e r t h e
.

conc e n t rat ion of t h e d ye b at h t hat is t h e gr e at e r t h e mass of t h e

-
, ,
 CL AS S IF I CA TI O N OF D Y ES . 65

dy e s t u ff in propor t ion t o t he mass of t he wat e r t he mor e color will ,

b e t ak e n up by t h e fibr e . Th e sam e of cours e is t ru e wh e n t h e

, ,

mass of t h e fibr e is gr e a t e r in propor t ion t o t hat of t h e wa te r .

3. T h e U se o f M or d an t s I
. t has b e e n s e e n t ha t c e r t ain dy e s

such as h ali z arin and an t hrac e n e s e ri e s ) do no t form s t abl e

( t e

combina t ions wi t h t h e fibr e s If wool for e xampl e is boil e d in

.
, ,

a solu t ion of Ali z arin R e d in a c e r t ain s e ns e i t will b e come dy e d

, ,

b u t t h e color may e as i ly b e wash e d from t h e fibr e In o t h e r .

words t hough t h e dye s t uff is soluble in t h e fibr e t h e color lak e

, ,
-

”
do e s no t b e com e fixe d . Th e s e dy e s how e v e r form v e ry , ,

perman e n t color lak e s wi t h many m e t allic oxid e s such as t hos e

-
,

of alum i n i um c h romi um iron e t c Fur t h e rmor e wool (and silk

, , ,
.
,

also ) has t h e prop e r t y of dissolving and fixing t h e s e m e t allic sal t s

much in t h e sam e man n e r for inst anc e as b asic dy e s are t ak e n
, ,

up by t h e fibr e Th e r e for e if t h e animal fibr e s ar e firs t boil e d in

.

a solu t ion of such m e t allic sal t a c e r t ain quan t i t y of t h e m e t allic

oxid e b e com e s dissolve d and fixe d in t he subs t anc e of t h e wool
(or silk ),
and t h e fibr e so pr e par e d can t h e n b e dy e d a p e rman e n t
color wi t h t h e ali z arin (or o t h e r mordan t ) dy e s t u ffs Co t t on (and .

t h e v e g e t abl e fibr e s in g e n e ral ) do e s n o t hav e t h e prop e r t y of dis

solving and fixing t h e s e m e t al lic s al t s (or mordan t s ) t o any e x t e n t ;
h e nc e t his m e t hod of mordan t ing and dy e ing is no t applicabl e t o
t h e v e g e t abl e fibr e s .Th e v e g e t abl e fibr e s do how e ve r poss e ss , ,

t h e prop e r t y of combining wi t h t annic acid and t his furnish e s a ,

m e t hod of so pr e paring t h e s e fibr e s t hat t h e y may b e dy e d wi t h

t h e b asic dy e s t u ffs . Th e sal t s of t hos e m e t al s which ar e mor e
or l e ss e asily dissoci at e d in boiling wa t e r ar e mos t applicabl e as
mordan t s for t h e animal fibr e s Th e s e sal t s includ e compounds
.

of chromium aluminium iron t i n copp e r e t c t h e mos t

, , , , ,
.
,

impor t an t mordan t s for wool b e ing po t assium bichromat e

( chrom e ) and a l um ( or aluminium sulpha t e ) . Pyroligni t e of .

iron ( crud e fe rrous ac e t at e ) and t h e so calle d ni t rat e of iron -

( r e ally a f e rric sulpha t e ) a r e us e d larg e ly for silk ; a l t hough t h e ir

u se in t his conn e c t ion is primarily for purpos e s of w e igh t ing t h e ir ,

mordan t ing ac t ion b e ing a s e condary consid e ra t ion Th e color .

lak e in t he c as e of a mordan t d ye consis t s of t he t riple compound

66 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

fibr e m e t allic oxid e dy e s t u ff Th e mordan t dy e s are of a .

m i ld acid ch arac t e r or con t ain groups wh i ch p e rm i t of t h e m

un i t i ng c h e mically wi t h t h e basic m e t allic oxid e O n accoun t of .

t h e fac t t ha t co t t o n canno t b e r e ad i ly mordan t e d af t e r t h e mann e r

of wool t h e ge n e ral class O f mordan t dy e s find li t t l e or no a ppli

,
'

cat ion t o t his fibr e Abou t t h e only i n st ance o f t h e ir u s e in t hi s

.

conn e c t ion is t h e dy e ing of Turk e y re d and t hi s r e quir e s a sp e cial -

,

and complica t e d proc e ss O ne fe a t ur e t o b e no t ic e d i n conn e c

.

t ion w i t h t h e mordan t dy e s i s t ha t t h e sam e dy e s t u ff oft e n giv e s

v e ry di ffe r e n t colors on d i ffe r e n t mordan t s ; Ali z arin Re d for ,

inst anc e wh e n dy e d on a chrom e mordan t g i v e s a rat h e r dull

,

purplish re d ; on an alum i n i um mordan t i t giv e s a br i gh t r e d ; on

a t i n mordan t i t give s a scarl e t ; and on an iron mordan t i t giv e s
a dull purpl e .

4 Th e Pi gm e n t Dy e s Th e se coloring mat t e rs are of a d i ffe r

- -
. .

e n t na t ur e from t hos e of t h e o t h e r groups Wh ile t h e lat t e r are .

organic compounds and mos t ly d e rivat iv e s from coal t ar t h e ,

pigm e n t dy e s ar e of a m i n e ral nat ur e Th e y cons i s t r e ally .

, ,

of min e ral pigm e n t s pr e cip i t a t e d mor e or l e ss m e chanically in

t h e fibr e .Ch rom e y ellow for ins t anc e consis t s of l e ad chroma t e
, , ,

a compound of an in t e ns e ly y e llow color which may b e pr e par e d

e n t ir e ly ind e p e nd e n t of t h e fibr e and is us e d e x t e nsiv e ly as a ,

pigm e n t for t h e pr e para t ion of pai n t s .

S AM P LES .

Wo o l dye d w i th a ci d d ye wi t h o u t a ci d .

Wo o l dye d wi t h a ci d d ye wi t h a ci d .

y d w i t h i d dy
Co t t o n d e ac e .

Si lk d y d w i t h
e i d dy ac e .

W l d y d w i t h b i dy
o o e as c e .

Silk d y d w i t h b i dy
e as c e .

U m d nt d
n o r tt
a dy d wi th b
e co o n e a si c dye .

M d nt d t t n d y d w i t h b i
o r a e co o e as c d ye .

W l dy d w i t h b t t i dy
o o e su s an ve e .

Si lk d y d w i t h
e b t t i dy su s an ve e .

C tt
o d y d wi t h
o n eb t t i dy su s an ve e .

U m d t d w l dy d wi th m
n o r an e o o e o rd a nt dye .

M d nt d w l dy d w i t h m rd
o r a e o o e o a nt d ye .
 CL AS S IF I CA TI O N O F D YES .

81 Unm o rda nt e d co t t o n d e d i t h m o rda nt dye y w .

82 . w
Co tt o n mo rda nt e d i t h a n i ro n salt .

83 . M d t d t t d y d wi t h m
o r an e co o n e o rda n t d ye .

84 . Unm d nt d ilk d y d w i t h m
o r a e s e o rd a n t d ye .

85 . M d nt d i lk dy d wi t h m d
o r a e s e o r a nt dye .

86 . C tt n dy d wi t h p i gm nt dy
o o e e e .

1 08 wh t l . Int o d y t ff i n g l di i d d ? Wh t i t h
a c a sse s a re es u s e ne ra v e a s e

d i ff b tw n dy t ff nd pi gm nt ?
e re n ce e ee a es u a a e

1 0
9 F m wh t . bt rom t f t h dy t p t d i
a d ? Wh t
su s a n ce a re o s o e es a re se n er ve a

k i d f dy w
n s o m pl y d i f m est im ? e re e o e n o r er es

1 1 0 Wh nd by w h m w
. th fi ten a lt dy t fi m d ? A ll o as e rs co a -
ar es u a e re a

dy dy ? H w d t h dy mp wi th t h
“ ”
co a lt -
arili n es ltan e es o o e co a -
ar e s co are e

ve g t bl d y i n h p
e a e i t n ity f l esb i gh t n c nd g n l f tn
ea ?
ne s s , n e s o co o r , r e ss , a e e ra as e ss

1 1 1 Gi n .t li n f th h mi l th
ve a y f dy i ng Wh t f t g
o u e o e c e ca eo r o e . a a c s ar u e

fo r an d g i t t hi t h y?
a a ns s eo r

1 1 2 Wh t i t h ph y i l t h y f d y i g ? Wh t i m nt by
. a s e li d s ca eo r o e n a s ea a so
”
so lu t i o n ?
1 1 3 . Wha t i s t he ch e mi ca l co n s t i t u t i o n o f an a ci d d y f?
e st u f p
Ex la i n wh y
a ci d d y e s co b
m i ne di re ct l y wi t h t he a ni m a l fib re s a n d no t wi t h t he ve g t bl
e a e

fib re s .

I1 4 . Why i s a ci d adde d t o t h e dye - b at h in d y i g wi t h

e n a ci d d y es ? Ex la i np
t he ch e m i ca l re act i o n whi ch ta k ples b tw
a ce e e en the a ci d a n d t he d y f
e st u f .

1 1 5 . Wh i ch a ci d i s mo st ly u se d i n d y i ng e a ci d co lo r s , a n d in wh a t a m o un t ?
1 1 6 . Wh a t i s t h e e ve nt u a l co l l k
o r- a bt e O a i ne d in d yi g
e n a ci d co lo r s o n

w o o l o r sil k?
1 1 7 . Wh at i s the ch e m i ca l co ns t i t u t i o n o f a b a si c d ye ? Exp la i n t he

ch e m i ca l d i ffe re n ce b tw e een a b a si c a n d a n a c i d d ye .

1 1 8 . p
Ex la i n why t h e a ni m a l fib re s co b
m i ne di re ctl y wi t h b as i c d y whil
es e

the g t bl fib d
ve e a e re s o no t . Ho w m a y t he la tt e r b e so t re a t e d as to b p bl
e ca a e

f d y i g w i th t h b a si c d y ?
’

o e n e es

1 1 9 . Wh y i s it no t ne ce ssa r yt o a dd e i t h e r a ci d o r a l a li k t o t h e d ye - b ath in
d y i gb
e n a si c d y es ? Wh a t i s m e ant by “
d i sso ci a t i o n
”
?
1 20 . by t h t m
Wh a t b t t i dy H w d
i s me a n t t hi l e er su s an ve e o o es s c a ss

d iff f m t h
er id d b i dy
ro h m i lly ? e ac an as c es c e ca

1 2 1 H w d b t ti dy
. o t with w l ilko nd tt n ?
su I s an ve e s re a c o o ,
s ,
a co o s a ny

dd i t i n t t h b t h y i n d y i ng t h l ?
‘

a o o e a n e ce ssa r e ese co o rs

1 22 Wh t i m t by m d t ? B y m d t d y ? H w d t h
. a s e an a o r an a o r an e o o e se

d ye t wi th
s re a c im l d g t bl fib ? an a an ve e a e re s

1 2
3 H w m y w l . d ilk b m d t d i
o d t dy wi t h t h e m
a o o an s e o r an e n o r er o e o r

d t dy ? C n
an tt b esl m d nt d i n t h am m n co w o n e a so o r a e e sa e an er as oo l?
Why ?
68 D YE N G AN D I TEX TILE CHEMIS TR Y .

1 24 . What cla ss o f m e t ac sa lt s a re em pl y o ed as mo rda nt s ? B ri e y fl

ex pl i n t h
a e ch e mi s t r y o f t he m o rda nt i n gp ro ce ss .

1 25 . Of wh at do es t h e co lo la
r -
k e co nsi st wh en mo rd ant d y e s a re e m lop y ed ?
Why are mo rd a nt d y e s no t m u ch a ppli ed t o co t t o n ?
1 26. Do e s Ali za ri n R e d gi ve t he sa me co lo r wi t h a Chro me as wi t h an i ro n
mo rda nt ? Wh at i s t he co lo r in e a ch ca se ?
1 2 7 . Wh a t i s m e a nt by p i gm
a e nt dye ? Ho w a re t h e se d y es o bt a i ne d in
t he fib re ?
1 28. Of wh at do e s Ch ro me y e llo w n i t?
co s s Ho w do e s i t d iffer i n ch e m i cal
na t u re fro m t h e o ther d y e s so far e m pl y d ?
o e

1 29 . Ho w i s Chro me y e llo w ppli

a ed t o co t t o n ? G i ve t he che mi ca l re a ct io ns
whi ch o ccu r i n i t s fo rm at i o n .

1 30 . To wh t fib
a re s are a ci d d y es mo s tl y ppli
a ed ? B a si c d y es ? Mo r
d ant d y es ? Pi gme nt d y es ? Su b stanti ve dye s ?
7 0 D YEI N G AN D TEX TILE CHEMIS TR Y .

of wool e n yarn as b e for e Aft e r washi ng and drying ,

compar e t h e e ve nn e ss of t h e colors on t h e t wo sk e ins .

Expe ri m e n t 3 8 Sh o wi n g t h e In fl u e n ce o f t h e Am o u n t o f Aci d
.

i n Dy e i n g wi t h Ac i d Co l o r s Pr e par e four d y e b at hs e ach

.
-
,

con t aining 300 cc of wa t e r 2 0 pe r c e n t of glaub e r s alt and 2 pe r

.
,
.
,

c e n t of F o r m yl Viole t IO B To t h e firs t bat h add 1 pe r c e n t of

. . .

sulphuric acid t o t h e s e cond add 2 p e r c e n t of t h e acid t o t h e

,
.
,

t hird add 4 pe r c e n t of t h e acid and fin ally t o t h e four t h add

.
,

8 p e r c e n t of t h e acid
. Dye a sk e in of wool e n yarn in e ach of
.

t h e s e ba t hs in t h e usu al mann e r ; t ha t is e n t e ring at 1 2 0 F

°
,

gradually raising t o t h e boil and dy e ing at t hat t e mp e rat ur e for

o ne —half hour Aft e r dy e ing wash and dry and compare t he
.
, ,

color on t h e s e ve ral sk e ins (9 0 9 1 9 2 Also compar e t he

, , ,

d e p t h of color le ft in t h e r e spe c t ive d ye ba t hs aft e r t h e dye ing -

op e rat ion has b e e n compl e t e d .

Ex pe ri m e nt 3 9 Sh owi n g t h e Ex h au s ti on o f t h e Dy e b at h
.
- .

Pr e par e a ba t h con t aining 3 00 cc of wa t e r 2 p e r c e n t of Acid .

,
.

M age n t a 4 p e r c e n t of sulphuric acid and 2 0 pe r c e n t of glaub e r

,
.
, .

sal t . Dy e a sk e in of wool e n yarn in t his b at h in t h e usual

mann e r . Squ e e z e t h e e xc e ss of d ye liquor back in t o t h e ba t h ;
wash t h e dy e d sk e in and dry Th e n d y e a s e cond sk e in o f
woole n yarn in t h e sam e ba t h wi t hou t any fur t h e r addi t ion of
dye s t u ff or ch e micals b u t fill up t h e d ye b at h wi t h wat e r so t h at
,
-

t h e volum e i s brough t back t o t h e original poin t Aft e r dy e ing .

,

squ e e z e t h e e xc e ss of l i quor in t o t h e bat h again wash t h e s e cond ,

sk e in and dry Th e n add wa t e r again t o t h e b at h t o brin g

i t b ack t o t h e original volum e and d y e a t hird sk e in of wool e n ,

yarn in t h e sam e mann e r and aft e r dy e i ng wash and dry

, ,

Compar e t h e color ob t ain e d on t h e t hr e e sk ei ns and t his will giv e ,

a good id e a of t h e r e lat ive e xh aus t ion of t he d y e bat h -

.

Ex pe ri m e n t 4 0 Dy e i n g Aci d Dy e s i n a Ne u t ral B a t h
. Som e .

of t h e acid dy e s are dissoci at e d consid e rably on disso lving i n

wat e r and l i b e rat e s u fli c i e nt color acid t o allow of t h e dy e ing of
t h e wool wi t h ou t t h e addi t ion of any acid t o t h e ba t h Pr e par e .

a bat h con t aini ng 300 cc of wat e r 1 0 p e r c e n t O f glaub e r salt

.
,
.
,

and 1 pe r c e n t of O range ENZ Dye a sk e in of woole n yarn in

. .
 A PPL I CA TI O N OF A CID D YES .
7 1

t his bat h in t he usual mann e r and wash and dry Pr e par e

,

a se cond bat h con t aining 300 cc of wat e r 1 0 per c e n t of glaub e r .

,
.

sal t 1 per c e n t of O range ENZ and 4 p e r c e n t of sulphuric acid

,
.
,
. .

Dy e a sk e in of wool e n yarn in t his b a t h in t h e usual mann e r and ,

wash and dry Compar e t h e color ob t ain e d on t h e t wo

ske ins by t h e s e m e t hods .

Expe ri m e nt 4 1 Dy e i ng o f A . lk ali B l u e Th e color acids of .

a fe w of t h e acid dye s ar e insolubl e in wat e r and t h e r e for e acid ,

c anno t b e add e d dir e c t ly t o t h e dy e b at h b u t must b e e mploy e d -

,

in a s e par at e b at h This m e t hod i s r e pr e s e n t e d in t h e applic at ion

.

of Alkali B lu e Dy e a t e s t ske in of wool e n yarn in a b at h of 3 0 0 cc

.
-
.

of wat e r 1 0 p e r c e n t of glau b e rs alt 1 p e r c e n t of Alkal i B lu e

,
.
,
.
,

and 2 p e r c e n t of borax Aft e r boiling for 2 0 minu t e s r e mov e

. .
,

t h e sk e in squ e e z e rins e sligh t ly

, ,
and pass in t o a fr e sh bat h
con t aining 3 00 cc of wat e r and 5 p e r c e n t of sulphuric acid ;
. .

e n t e r a t 1 60 F bring t o t he boil and con t inu e for 2 0 minu t e s

°

N o t ic e t hat t h e full blu e color of t h e d y e is no t d e ve lop e d

un t il t h e mat e rial i s t r e a t e d wi t h t h e acid b at h B orax i s a mild .

alkali and i s add e d t o t h e d ye b at h for t h e purpos e of insuring i t s

,
-

r e maining p e rfe c t ly n e u t ral To S how t h e e ffe c t of adding t h e

.

acid dir e c t ly t o t h e d ye b at h pr e par e a b at h con t aining 30 0 cc

-
, .

of wa t e r 1 0 p e r c e n t of glaub e rs alt I p e r c e n t of Al kali B lu e and

,
.
,
.
,

4 p e r c e n t of sulphuric acid
. Dye a sk e in of wool e n yarn in t hi s
.

ba t h in t h e usual mann e r and wash and dry , Compar e

t h e r e sul t wi t h t hat ob t ain e d in t h e firs t m e t hod Also no t ic e .

t ha t t h e addi t ion of t h e acid t o t h e b a t h c aus e s t h e pr e cipi t a t ion

o f t h e coloring mat t e r -
.
 7 2 D YE N G AN DI TEXTILE CHEM IS TR Y .

NOTES .

Pre para ti o n o f t h e Dye b at h

1 . For t h e dy e ing of woole n
- .

yarn t h e r e wi ll b e r e quir e d abou t 60 t im e s t h e amoun t of wate r

or d ye liquor as t h e r e is ma t e ri al t o b e dy e d ; t hat i s t o say ,

1 pound of wool e n yarn will r e quir e abou t gallons of wat e r

in t h e dye b a t h ( 1 gallon of wat e r w e ighs
-
pounds ) Si lk .

will also re quir e abou t t he sam e pro por t ion Co tt on yarn on .

,

t h e o t h e r hand will r e quir e only abou t o ne half t h e amoun t of

,
-

d y e liquor as wool ; t hat is t o say 1 pound Of co t t on may b e dy ed ,

in abou t 3 5 gallons of d y e liquor Th e porc elain b e ak e rs e mploy e d.

for t h e d ye t e s ts should conv e ni e n tly hold abou t 300 cc of wa t e r ;

- .

cons e qu e n tly t h e y are of a conv e ni e n t si ze for t h e dy e ing of

5 gram
-
sk e ins of wool e n yarn or 1 0 —gram sk e ins of c Ot t o n yarn
,

so t hat t h e wool e n and co t t on sk e in s e mploye d for t h e t e s t s sh ould

b e suppli e d in t h e s e w e igh t s r e sp e c t iv ely For silk sk e ins of abou t .
,

2 grams w e ig h t may b e e mploy e d ( for e conomy ) cons e qu e n t ly ,

for such t e st s only abou t 1 2 5 cc of dye liquor should b e use d . .

2 Cal cu la ti o ns Us e d i n Dy e i n g
.
—
Th e amoun t s of dy e s t uff s
and ch e micals e mploy e d in dy e ing a re usually e xpr e sse d in t e rms
of p e rc e n t ag e s on t h e w e igh t of t h e mat e rial t o b e dy e d Thus .

“
in E xp 3 6 2 0 p e r c e n t of gla ub e rs alt 4 p e r c e n t of sulphuric
.
,
.
,
.

a cid and 1 pe r c e n t O f Acid M ag e n t a

”
,
a re c all e d for ; t his would
.

m e an t hat t h e ac t ual amoun t s of t h e subs t anc e s t o b e t ak e n

a re t o b e t h e r e sp e c t i v e p e rc e n t ag e s on t h e w e igh t of t h e yar n
.

d y e d which in t his cas e is 5 grams

,
Th e r e for e we have .

5 grams X . 04 gram for t h e sulphuric acid ,

5 grams X . 20 gram for t h e gla ub e rsalt ,

5 grams X . 01 gram for t h e dy e s t uff .

AS rat h e r small amoun t s t o b e con t inually w e ighing

t h e se a re

o ut i t is b e s t t o have t h e ch e micals and dy e s t uffs e mploy e d

,

in t h e d ye t e st s mad e up in solu t ions of such s t re ngt h t hat

-

conve n i e n t volum e s will con t ain t h e r e quir e d amoun t s

as n e e d e d for t h e pr e parat io n of t h e d y e bat hs As 4 pe r -
.
 A PPL I CA TIO N OF A CID D YES .
73

c e n t i s t h e cus t omary amoun t of sulphuric acid t o e mploy a

.
,

conv e ni e n t solu t ion would b e o ne of such s t r e ng t h t hat 1 0 cc .

would co n t ain 4 pe r c e n t of t h e acid on 5 grams (t his b e ing t h e

.

w e igh t of t h e wool e n yarn e mploy e d in all t h e t e st s ) To pr e par e .

o ne li t r e or 1 000 cc of t his solu t ion proc e e d as follows

.
,

10 cc is t o con t ain 4 pe r c e n t on 5 grams

. gram acid
. .

1 0 00 cc would t h e r e for e con t ain 2 0 grams acid

. .

As t h e comm e rci al conc e n t rat e d sulphuric acid has a d e nsi t y of

abou t 1 cc w e igh s grams ) 2 0 grams by w e igh t of
.
,

t he acid would b e e quival e n t t o 2 0 cc He nc e .

t h e solu t ion should con t ain cc of t h e conc e n t rat e d sulphuric

.

acid p e r li t r e Th e solu t ion of gla ub e r salt may b e pr e par e d in

.

a similar m ann e r A conve ni e n t s t r e ng t h i s o ne con t aining

.

20
p e r c e n t of t h .e sal t on 5 grams in 1 0 cc which would b e .
,

1 gram in 1 0 cc or 1 0 0 grams p e r li t r e A conve ni e n t s t r e ng t h

.
,
.

for t h e solu t ions of dy e s t u ffs i s 5 grams pe r li t r e ; h e nc e 1 pe r c e n t .

on 5 grams would b e e quival e n t t o 1 0 cc of t h e solut ion For a . .

Io gram sk e in wh e r e co t t on yarn i s e mploy e d in t h e te s t s 2 0 cc

-
, ,
.

would b e e quival e n t t o 1 p e r c e n t .

3 . Fu n c t i on o f t h e Ch e m i cals Em pl o y e d i n Dy e in g A ci d ‘

Co lo r s . Th e s e ch e micals a re mos t ly confin e d t o s u lp hu ri c a ci d

and gla u be rs a lt AS alr e ady e xplain e d und e r t h e ge n e ral t h e ory
.

O f dy e ing t h e sulphuric acid i s us e d for t h e purpos e of lib e ra t ing

,

t he color acid of t h e dy e s t u ff so t ha t i t may mor e r e adily combin e

-

wi t h t he basic compon e n t of t h e fibr e ; h e nc e t he addi t ion of t h e

acid facili t a t e s t h e dy e ing and incr e as e s t he e xhaus t ion of t h e
b a t h Som e acid dy e s na t ur ally r e quir e mor e acid t h an o t h e rs
.

t o give t h e sam e d e gr e e of e xhaus t ion b u t 4 p e r c e n t (on t h e ,

.

w e igh t of t h e wool ) app e ars t o b e ampl e for almos t all cas e s .

Th e dy e r do e s no t vary t h e amoun t of acid wi t h e ach individual

dy e s t u ff or vari at ion in quan t i t y o f dy e s t uff us e d b u t adh e r e s ,

t o t h e fix e d quan t i t y of 4 p e r c e n t Som e t im e s a b e t t e r d e gr e e of
.

e xhaus t ion may b e ob t ain e d by t h e addi t ion of a fur t h e r quan t i t y

( abou t 2 p e r c e n t ) of acid n e ar t h e. compl e t ion of t h e dy e ing

74 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEMIS TR Y .

O p e rat ion Som e of t h e acid dy e s do no t r e quire t h e addi t ion of

.

such a s t rong acid as sulphuric t o lib e rat e t h e color acid b ut give -

,

ve ry good r e sult s wi t h a mild e r acid such as t he organic ac e t ic ,

acid Formic acid may also b e us e d Such colors a re e sp e cially

. .

us e ful for t h e dy e ing of wool co tt on fabrics as t he co t t on i s no t

-
,

inj ur e d by t h e ac e t ic or formic acid N e arly all of t h e acid colors

.

a re sligh t ly dissocia t e d on dissolving in wa t e r ; t ha t is t o say a small ,

amoun t of t h e fr e e color acid i s form e d ; h e nc e a c e r t ain d e gr e e of

-

dy e i ng t ak e s plac e e ve n wi t hou t t h e addi t ion of acid Som e of .

t h e acid dy e s a re larg e ly dissocia t e d in solu t ion and cons e qu e n t ly ,

t h e s e may b e dy e d in a n e u t ral ba t h Such colors are al so us e ful

.

for wool co tt on dy e ing Th e r e fore t h e acid dy e s may b e divid e d

-
.

in t o groups wi t h r e fe r e nc e t o t h e r e quire d acidi t y of t he d ye

b at h
( )
a D y e s which may b e appli e d in a n e u t ral b at h .

( )
b Dy e s which r e quir e a sligh t ly acid ba t h ; usu al ly ac e t ic
aci d b e ing e mploy e d .

( )
c D y e s which r e quir e a ba t h acidula t e d wi t h sulphuric acid .

The g use d in
la u be rs a lt t he dye -
bat h may e xe r t an influ e nc e
in s e v e ral diffe r e n t ways
( )
a In m e ch anically r e t arding t h e in t e rac t ion b e t w e e n t h e

color acid and t h e fibr e

-
.

( )
b In ch e mic ally r e t arding t h e lib e ra t ion of t h e color acid -

from t h e d ye sal t -
.

( )
c In af fe c t i ng t h e solubili t y of t h e dy e s t u f
f in t h e solu t i on .

Th e firs t e ff e c t has b e e n consid e r e d und e r t h e g e n e ral t h e ory

of dy e ing and i s v e ry like ly t h e chi e f influ e nc e e x e r t e d by t h e
,

l u b r s al t Th r is a consid rabl possibil i t y how v r t ha t

g a e . e e e e ,
e e ,

a ch e mical ac t ion may com e in t o play It i s a w e ll e s t ablish e d .

-

pr i nciple in ch e mis t ry t hat wh e n o ne of t h e produc t s of a ch e mical

r e ac t i on is pr e s e n t in t h e solu t ion t h e rapidi t y and e x t e n t O f
,

t h i s r e ac t ion w i ll b e r e duc e d . No w in t h e in t e rac t ion b e t w e e n

,

sulphuric acid and t h e dy e st u ff (whic h is g e n e r al ly t h e sodium

sal t of t h e color acid ) glaub e rs alt is form e d ; h e nc e if a r e lat ive ly
-
,
 APP L H i
OF I
AC D D Y ES .
75

larg e propor t ion of gla ub e rs alt i s alr e ady pre se n t t he r e ac t ion ,

b e t w e e n t h e acid and t h e dye s t uff will b e consid e rably r e t ard e d .

us o wha t e x t e n t t his influ e nc e of t h e gla u b e rs alt af fe c t s t he

J t t
e v e n dy e ing of t h e acid colors i s a qu e s t ion ; b u t i t is doub t f ul i f

i t i s as impor t an t as t h e pr e c e ding influ e nc e As t o t h e d e gr e e in

.

which t h e glaub e r salt a ffe c t s t h e solubili t y of t h e dy e s t u ff in t he

solu t ion i t may b e s t at e d t h at t his mus t b e rat h e r limi t e d wh e n
, ,

i t i s consid e r e d t hat bo t h t h e dy e s t uff and t h e glaub e r s alt are in

rat h e r dilu t e solu t ions Th e g e n e r al e ff e c t of t he addi t ion of
.

g la u b e rs a lt t o a dy e s t u ff solu t ion woul d b e t o l e ss e n t h e solubili t y

o f t h e d y e ; b u t in ord e r for t his e ffe c t t o b e mark e d t h e co nc e n

t r at i o n of t h e gla u b e r s alt in t h e solu t ion wo ul d hav e t o b e ra t h e r
high If t h e glau b e r s alt did a c t in t his mann e r in t h e ordinary
.

d ye ba t h t h e e ffe c t would b e t o t hrow t h e dy e s t u ff o u t of solu t ion

-
,

and h e nc e t o promo t e un e ve n rat h e r t han l e v e l dy e ing ; wh e r e as

w e know t h e opposi t e t o b e t h e cas e Fur t h e rmor e many of t h e
.
,

acid dy e s may b e par t ially s t ripp e d from t h e fi br e by boiling in

a bat h con t aining gla ub e r salt ; much mor e of t h e dy e s t u ff b e ing
dissolve d t han if plain boiling wa t e r w e r e us e d .

G la u b e r s al t i s t h e com m on nam e for crys t alli z e d sodi um

sulphat e ; i t has t he ch e mic al formula Na, SO , I O HZ O Calcin e d .

or d e sicca t e d glau b e rs alt has t h e wat e r of crys t alli z at ion r e mov e d

by h e a t ing ; i t i s a whi t e amorphous powd e r having t h e formula ,

N a SO
, ,
.Abou t 44 par t s of d e siccat e d glau b e rs alt are e quival e n t
t o 1 00 par t s of t h e crys t allin e sal t .

4 Ge n e r al Ch a r act e ri s ti cs o f t h e A ci d Dy e s
. Th e s e colors.

a r e t h e princip al dy e s e mploy e d for t h e dy e i ng of wool e n ma t e ri als ,

e sp e ci ally yarns and pi e c e goods

-
M os t of t h e m are l e v e l
.

dy e ing ; and t h e ir g e n e r al fast n e ss t o washing and ligh t i s good ,

t hough t h e fas t n e ss vari e s larg e ly wi t h t h e individual m e mb e rs .

Th e acid dy e s as a rul e a re ch e ap compar e d wi t h t he o t h e r

, ,

class e s of dy e s t u ffs and consid e ring t h e ir high coloring pow e r .

In t his lat t e r r e sp e c t howe ve r t h e y are no t e qual t o t he b asic

, ,

dy e s t hough t h e s e are mor e cos t ly In rang e of color t h e acid

, .

dy e s ar e qui t e vari e d r e pre s e n t at ive s of almos t e v e ry color b e ing

,
7 6 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEMIS TR Y .

availabl e Wat e r of ordinary hardn e ss do e s no t hav e much

.

ef fe c t on t h e ac i d dy e s and in t h e d y e bat h any t e nd e ncy of hard

,
-

wat e r t o pr e c i pi t a t e t h e se colors is pr e v e n t e d by t h e pr e s e nc e of
ac i d M at e ri al dy e d wi t h t h e acid colors should b e w e ll wash e d
.

aft e r com i ng from t h e d y e b at h e sp e ci ally if h e avy shad e s are

-
,

us e d o t h e rwis e t h e color may show unn e c e ssary ble e ding on

,

“ ”
scouring or may h ave t he d e fe c t of rubbing or crocking
,
.

Should an acid color show any t e nd e ncy t owards dy e ing un e v e nly ,

t h e following pr e cau t ions should b e O bs e rv e d :

( )
a S t a r t t h e d y e b a t h
-
a t a low t e mp e ra t ur e and h e a t t o t h e

boiling poin t only v e ry gradually .

( )
b D o n o t add any acid un t il t h e goods hav e b ee n work e d in
t h e d y e b at h for som e t im e and t h e n add t h e acid in s e v e ral
-
,

por t ions during t h e dy e ing .

(c ) B e sur e t ha t t h e dy e s t u f f i s t horoughly dissolv e d and add

t h e solu t ion in s e v e ral por t ions during t h e dy e ing .

“ ”
d
( ) D o n o t u se t o o shor t a d y e ba t h -
t ha ,
t is o n e con
,
t aining
t o o li t t l e wa t e r .

Th e acid dy e s as a rul e e xh aus t fairly w e ll t hough t his qu al i t y

, , ,

vari e s wi t h individual m e mb e rs of t h e group Th e e xh aus t ion of .

t h e d y e ba t h may usually b e consid e rably incr e as e d by t h e addi

-

t ion of e x t ra acid t owards t h e e nd of t h e dy e ing op e ra t ion In case

.

“
t h e ba t h do e s no t e xhaus t w e ll i t should b e k e p t as a,
s t anding
”
k e tt l e t hat is pre s e rv e d for fur t h e r u se and fr e sh e n e d up by
, ,

t h e addi t ion of t h e n e c e ssary amoun t of dy e s t u ff O f cours e t h e

.

poor e r t h e e xhaus t ion of t h e dy e ba t h t he l e ss will b e t h e amoun t

-

of t h e s e cond addi t ion of dy e s t uff Ge n e rally sp e aking wi t h t he .

,

t hird or four t h succ e ssiv e ba t h t h e amoun t of dy e s t u ff t o b e

,

add e d e ach t im e will b e com e cons t an t in ord e r t o produc e t he

sam e shad e M ost of t h e acid dy e s will giv e a full shad e
.
“ ”

( in a s t ar t ing b a t h ) wi t h abou t 3 t o 4 p e r c e n t of color

. B y .a
full shad e i s m e an t t h e maximum d e p t h of color giv e n by a
dy e s t u ff .

5 . U se f u l D a t a fo r C a l c u l a ti o n s i n D y e i n g T o
.
fi n d t h e c a p a

ci ty of a re ct a ngu la r t a nk: Mul t iply fhe l e ng t h by t h e bre ad t h

7 8 D Y EI N G AN D TEXTILE CHEMIS TR Y .

To co nv ert p erce ntage of co lo r i nto t he co rre s po ndi ng qu a nt i t y

pe r 1 00 p o u nds of g o o ds

Pe r 1 00 lb s . Pe r 1 00 lb s . Pe r 1 00 lb s .

Pe r c e nt . Pe r c e nt . Pe r c e nt .

O zs . Gru s . O zs . Gm s . Gm s .

EXAMPLE — T h e re
is r e quir e d p e r c e n t of dy e s t uff .

1 00 pounds of goods R e f e re nc e t o t h e abov e t abl e shows

.

1 00 pounds of goods

2
p e r c e n t 1 5 3 2 o zs . .

r c e n t is
"
p e 2 o z s 2 4 6 grns . . .

He nc e p e r c e n t is 3 4 o z s 2 4 6 g r n s . - . .
 PPL I CATI O N
A OF A CID D Y ES .
79

To co nv ert cu bi c centi mete rs f

o tes t s o lu ti o ns co nta i ni ng o ne

m d d e li tre i nt o co rres p o ndi ng p e rce nt

f y fi
’

g ra o d es t u i ss o lv e i n o n

a ge s fo r 1 0 gra m tes t s ke i ns a nd wei g ht s of dyest ufi per 1 00 p o u nds

r
- -

é Pe r
8d c e nt .

Lu 0
o n 1 0

O z s Gm s
. . g ra ms
80 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

53 Pe r 23 Pe r Pe r
8q
’

c e nt .
8d c e nt .
d c e nt .

8 8
“ “
6 o n 1 0 o n 1 0 6 o n 1 0

8
°

g
ra ms .
Lb s .

8 g ra ms .
Lb s . O zs
8
°

g ra ms .
Lb s . O zs . G ru s .

E X A MP LE To ob t a i n
.
p e
-
r c e n t of dy e s t uff on a I o gram .
-

t e t sk e in of wool or co tt on wh e n t h e solu t ion con t ains 1 gram

s —
,

of dy e s t uff pe r li t r e i t would b e n e c e ssary t o t ak e 6 7 cc of t he

,
.

solu t ion ; and for t h e dy e ing of 1 00 pound s of goods t hi s would

b e e quival e n t t o 1 0 ounc es 3 1 5 grains of dy e s t u ff .

In c as e a 5 gram t e s t sk e in i s use d t h e abov e figur e s in t h e

- -
,

p e rc e n t ag e and w e ig h t columns a re t o b e mul t ipli e d by 2 .

.

For ins t anc e p e r c e n t,

of dy e s t u f
f would b e e quival
. e n t t o

6 7 cc of t h e solu t ion or t o 1 pound 5 ounc e s 1 9 3 grains on

.
,

1 0 0 pounds O f ma t e ri al .

In cas e t h e dy e s t u ff solu t ion con t ains mor e t han 1 gram p e r

l i t r e i t will b e n e c e ssary t o mul t iply t h e figure s in t h e p erc e n t
,

a ge and w e i gh t columns by t h e numb e r of grams p e r li t r e of t h e

solu t i on F o r i ns t anc e i f t h e solu t ion con t a ins 5 grams p e r

.
,

li t r e 6 7 cc wo uld b e e qu i val e n t t o 373 5 p e r c e n t or t o 3 pounds

,
. .
,

5 ounc e s 2 6 2 grains on 1 00 poun ds if a 1 0 gram t e s t sk e in i s us e d ,

- -
.
 A PPL I CA TI O N OF AC D D YES I . 81

If a gram t e s t sk e in b e us e d 6 7 cc of such a solu t ion wo uld

5
- -
.
,

b e e qu i val e n t t o p e r c e n t or t o 6 pounds 1 1 ounc

.
,
e s 8 7 grains
on 1 00 pounds of goods .

To co nv e rt p e rce nta ge of co lo r ( on 1 00 p o u n ds of g o o ds ) i nto

qu a n t i t y o f s t a nda r d s o lu ti o n o f 4 o u nces o f dr y co lo r p er g a llo n :

S o lu t i o n o f 4 o zs .
per g a llo n .

Pe r c e nt .

Qu a rt s P i nt s G i lls No gg i ns

2 no g i ns g 1 gi ll 2 pi nt s 1 qu a rt

4 gi lls 1 pi nt 4 qu arts 1 g a llo n

Co nv e ni e nt da t a rega r di ng qu a n t i t i e s o f wa t e r b a s e d o n Uni te d
S ta tes ga llo n
gallon = 2 3 1
1 cubic inch e s ==
. pounds
1 quar t = =
1 pin t =

1 gill = . 2
5
1 cubic foo t 1
7 2 8 gallons
1 cubic inch . 0 36

Co mp a ra ti v e S t re ngt h f D ifie re nt C he mi ca ls
'

o .

1 00 par t s by w e igh t of s a l s o da (Na C O 1 0 HZ O ) i s e quival e n t , ,

.

to abou t 3 7 par t s of s o da a s h (N a2CO ) 3

.

1 0 0 par t s o f s o da a s h i s e quival e n t t o 2 0 par t s s a l s o da

7 .

1 0 0 par t s cry s t a lli ze d gla u b e r sa lt (N a S O HzO ) i s e quival e n t ,

to 44 par t s of ca lci ne d gla u b e rs a lt (N

1 00 par t s of ca lci n e d g la u b e rsa lt i s e quival e n t t o 2 2 par t s o f
7
cry s t a lli ze d g la u b e rs a lt .

par t s of a lu m
1 00 p e r c e n t A 12
0 3)
has t h e sam e prac t ical .

valu e as 60 p ar t s of a lu mi ni u m s u lp h a te ( 1 8 p e r c e n t A120 3 ) .

1 00 par t s of a lu mi ni u m s u lp h a te are e quival e n t t o 1 7 0 p ar t s

a lu m .
82 D YE N G AN D I TEX TILE CHEMIS TR Y .

1 00 par t s of su l p h u ri c a ci d ( 1 6 8 Tw °
.
) corr e spond t o 2 2 0 par t s
of h y dro chlo ri c a ci d (3 2
°
Tw .
) or to 400 par t s of a ceti c a ci d

(9
°

1 00 par t s of hydro chlo ri c a ci d corr e spond t o 4 5 p ar t s of s u l

h r i c a ci d or t o 1 par s of t i i d
p u
75 t a ce c ac .

1 00 p ar t s of a cet i c a ci d corr e spond t o 2 6 part s of s u lp hu ri c

a ci d or t o p ar t s of h d hl i ci d
57 y ro c o r c a .

S AM P LES .

p nting t h ppli t i n f i d d y
Re re se e a ca o o ac es to w oo l.

Dy d w i t h t gl b
e o u lt au e rsa .

Dy d w i t h gl b
e lt a u e rsa .

Dy d w i t h p
e t 1 lp h i id
e r ce n . su ur c a c .

Dy d w i t h p
e t 2 lp h i id
e r ce n . su ur c a c .

Dy d w i t h 4 p
e nt lp h i id
e r ce . su ur c a c .

Dy d w i t h 8 p
e nt lph i id
e r ce . su ur c ac .

Fi t d y i g f m b t h
rs e n ro a .

S d d y i ng f m b t h
e co n e ro a .

Th i d dy i g f m b t h
r e n ro a .

Dy d i n
e t l b th
'

a n e u ra a .

Dy d w i t h
e i d i n b thac a .

Alk li b l
a bf ue id t t m nt
e o re a c re a e .

Alk li b l
a ft t tm
ue a t wit h
er id rea en ac .

Alk li b l
a dy d w i th
ue i d in th b th
e ac e a .

Q UIZ 6 .

1 31 . O u t li ne b i fly t h g
r e e e ne r a l m e t ho d o fd yi g
e n a ci d co lo rs o n w oo l.

1 32 . p
Ex lai n t he fu n ct i o n o f t he a ci d a nd t he gla u b e rsalt i n t h e d ye - b th a .

1 33 . Wh at co n d i t i o ns o f tem p e ra t u re S h o u ld be m a i n t a i ne d i n d y i g?
e n

Explai n t h e i n fl ue nce o f t he t e m p e ra t u re o f t he b at h o n t he d y i gp
e n ro ce ss .

1 34 . A b o ut wh at le n t h g o f time i s re qui re d fo r t h e d y i gt
e n o be co p
m le t e d ?
Wh at p re ca u t i o n s s h o u ld b e ta k en in w ki g th
o r n e m at e ri a l i n t he d ye - b ath to

p re v e nt fe lt i n ?g
1 35 . Why sho uld t h e m a t e ri a l a ft e r d yi g e n be w e ll w a sh e d ? Do e s h a r d
w at er h ave m u ch i n fl u e n ce i n t he d y i ng
e o f a ci d co lo rs ?
1 36 . Are t h e a ci d co lo r s m u ch e m pl y o ed fo r t h e d yi g
e n o f w oo l? G i ve t h e
g e ne ra l ch ara ct e ri s t i cs o f t he a ci d co lo rs wi th re s p e ct t o lev e l d y i ng g
e ,
e ne ra l

fa st ne ss , ch e a pn e ss , a n d r an g e o f co lo rs .

1 37 . Di scu ss t h e v a ri o u s p re ca u t i o n s to be a do pt ed fo r t h e p ro d u ct i o n o f
eve n co lo rs i n t he d y i ng w i t h
e a ci d d y es .
 A PPL I CA TIO N OF AC D D I Y ES . 83

1 38 p. Ex lai n t he che m i cal a nd phy i s ca l a ct i o n o f t h e gla ub e rsalt i n t h e

d ye- b th in p
a ro mo t i n g e v e n co lo r s a n d g o o d p e ne t ra t i o n .

1 39 . Wh at i s gla u b e rsa lt ? Wh a t i s m e a nt by de si cca t e d glau b e rsa lt ?

Wh a t q uant i ty o f la u b e r sa lt i s
g u s ua ll y em pl yo ed in y g
d ei n ?
1 40 . Fro m y o ur t e st t o Sh o w th e in fl u e n ce o f t he a m o un t o f a ci d i n t h e d ye
b th
a o n t he q u ali t y o f t he re su lt i n g co lo r, wh t w a o uld yo u co n clu de a s t o t h e

p p
ro e r a m o u nt o f a ci d t o b e e m pl y o ed ?
1 4 1 . Wh at i s me a nt by the
“
e xh a u s t i o n
”
f t he dye a t h ? Do t he a ci d
o -
b
b w
c

dye -
a t h s, a s a rule , e x h a u st e ll ? Ho w m ay t he re lat i ve e xh a u st i o n o f t he
d ye -
b ath be Sh o wn ?
1 42 . Wh at i s me ant by a s t a n di n gk e tt le Wh at in fl u e nce d o e s t he
e xh a u st i o n o f t h e d ye a t h h a v e o -
b n t h e a m o u nt o f d y e s t uf
f to be a dde d fo r
s u cce ssi ve y g k ttl ?
d e i n s fro m t h e same e e

43
1 I w h t .m nm y t h ah t i f t h
anne rd y
— b t h b i n d?a e ex au s o n o e e a e cre a se

Wh t i m t by
a s f ll h d
e an f d y t ff a Wh t p “
nt g
u f i d dy
s a e
”
o a es u a e r ce a e O ac e

is u sua lly y t gi v f ll h d i n t h fi st b th ?
ne ce s sa r o e a u s a e e r a

4 4 E pl i n wh y
1 . m x f th a i d dy m y b ppli d t w l i n n t l
so e o e ac es a e a e o oo a e u ra

b th I th h ti g d in h
a . s e ex ? Und
aus wh t i m t n
o n oo su c case s er a c r cu s a ce s

w ld m t i l b li k ly t b dy d wi th id l i n n t l b th ?
o u a er a e e o e e ac co o rs a e u ra a

45
1 H wd . th ppli ti n f Al k li B l di fl f m t h t f th
o o es e a id
ca o o a ue er ro a o o er a c

d y ? Wh y
es n t th id b dd d d i
ca n t ly t t h dy b t h ?
o e ac e a e re c o e e- a

4 6 Wh t i t h p p
1 . af d di n g b s t t h e dy b t h w h n Alk li B l
e u r o se o a o ra x o e- a e a ue

is u se d ? Wh t i b ? Wh t i i t a h mi l hs t
o ra x ? a s s c e ca c a ra c e r

47
1 Why i i t . y t ft t t Alk li Bl wi th n i d b th ?
s n e ce s sa r o a e r -
re a a ue a ac a

Wh t l i t h m t i l ft dy i g i n t h fi t b t h nd w h t l d i t
a co o r s e a er a a er e n e rs a ,
a a co o r o es

b m wh n p d i t t h i d b t h ?
e co e e a s se n o e ac a

4 8 Wh t i t h
1 . ff t f d y i g Alk li B l
a s wi t h
e e i d dd d di
ec t ly t
o e n a ue ac a e re c o

th dy b t h ?
e A th
e- a m ny id dy whi h q i t b d y d i th
re e re a ac es c re u re o e e n e

m nn
a f Alk li B l ?
er o a ue

49
1 Wh t p p t i
. h ld a i t b tw ro th o r m nt f w l n y n t
o n s o u ex s e ee n e a o u o o o e ar o

b dy d
e d th e m t
an f dy li q e d ? Wh t p p t i
a o un f i lk o e uo r u se a ro o r o n o r s

Wh t p p t i n f
a ro tt ?
o r o o r co o n

51 H w m y g ll
0 . o fw t q i d f t h d y i g f p nd f
an a o ns o a e r a re re u re o r e e n o 1 o u o

w l y n? H w m y p d f w t
o o en ar o i n t h Uni t d St t an g ll n ? o un s o a e r a re e e a es a o

I t h E gli h g ll n ?
n e n s a o

51 S pp 1 .it i q i d t dy
u o se p nd f w l n y n n d t h d y
s re u re o e 1 00 o u s o o o e ar ,
a e e

va t i 3 f t d p by
s f t wid ; h w l ng w ld i t h
ee ee 2 t b t ee nt i th e o o o u av e o e o co a n e

n y dy li q ? ( bi f t f w t w i gh
e ce s sa r e uo r p d ) 1 cu c o o o a er e s o un s .

51 Wh t w i gh t f w l
2 . a d tt e t t k in m y b s o n i nt ly o o en an co o n es -
s e s a e co ve n e

dy d ie b k h ldi ng 3
n a ea fw t ? H w m h w t w l d b
er o q i d
00 cc o . a er o uc a er o u e re u re

f th dy i g f t t k in
o r e e n f i lk w i gh i ng
o g m ?
es -
s e s o s e 2 ra s

5 3 I w h t m nn
1 . n th m nta f d y t ff nd h mi l
a e r a re l lat d e a o u s o es u s a c e ca s ca cu e

i n th p p e t i n f dy b t h ?
re ara o o e- a s
84 D YE N G AN D I TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

1 p d f w l y n w t b dy d by t h f mul gi n i n
54 . If 1 00 o un s o oo en ar e re o e e e o r a ve

E p 3 6 w h t w i gh t
x . f gl b
,
lt i d nd d y t fl w ld b
a e q i d?s o au e rsa ,
ac ,
a es u o u e re u re

H w m y p i nt
o f lph i
an i d w ld b q i d ? ( p i
s o nt f w t i
su ur c a c o u e re u re 1 o a er s

eq i l tt
u va e n p d) o 1 o un .

5 5 If 5 6 p nd
1 . f w l n y n t b dy d i g t h f ll w i g
o u s o oo e ar a re o e e ,
us n e o o n

a m o unt s o f dye st ufl s :
pe r ce n t . Aci d Ma e nt a , g
pe r ce nt . O ra n e ENZ , g
pe r c e n t . Fo r m yl V i o le t ,

ca lcula t e t he q u ant i t i e s o f t h e se d y es in p o u nd s , o u n ce s , a nd g rai ns wh i h c

w o u ld be re qu i re d . Calcul at e t h e q uant i ti e s i n t e rm s o f gra m s .

( Se e App n e

d i x fo r b
t a le s o f m e a s u re s a nd w i gh t
e s .
)
1 56 . Ho w w o uld yo u p p re a re a so lu t i o n o f s ul h u ri c p a cid o f s u ch s t re n gt h
that 1 0 cc . w o u ld be e q ui vale nt t o 4 pe r ce n t . o n g
5 ra m s ? Ho w w o u ld yo u

p p re a re su ch a so lut i o n t h a t 5 cc . w o u ld be e q u i v a le nt t o 6 pe r ce nt . o n 8
g m ra s ?
1 57 . If a so lu t i o n o fd y f co nt a i ns
e st u f 5 g ra ms o f d ry lo r pe r lit re , ho w
co

m an y bi cu c ce nt i m e t e rs w o u ld be e q u iv ale nt to pe r ce nt o n 5 . ra m s ? To g
pe r ce nt . o n 10 g ra m s ?
1 5 8 If a . g
2 - ra m s k ein o f s il k is em pl y o ed fo r a d ye t e st t he dye so lu t i o n
-

s h o u ld co nt a i n ho w man yg ra m s pe r li t re i n o rde r t h a t 1 0 cc m a y b e e q u i v ale nt

.

to 1 pe r ce nt . in d y i g th
e n e Si l k?
1 59 . If a so lu t i o n o fd y f
e st u f is u se d co nt a i ni n g4 o u nce s g
pe r a llo n, h o w
m u ch w o uld be re q u i re d fo r 1 pe r ce nt . o n 10 p o u nds o f y a rn Fo r o ne q u art e r
-

pe r ce nt . o n 25 p o u nd s ? Fo r 2 } pe r ce nt . o n 45 p o un d s ? -
( G i ve t he re s ult in
t e rm s o f g a llo n s , q u art s ,
pi nt gi ll s, s , a n d no ggin s .
)
1 60 . Ho w m any g ra m s o f dye s t ufi w o ul d be ne e de d t o gi ve pe r c en t . o n

1 2
5 k i l o s ? Fo r
pe r ce nt . o n 2 k
5 li o s? Fo r o ne - q ua rt e r pe r ce n t . o n 10

k il o s ?
1 61 . Ho w m a n yg ra m s o fd y e st uf
f w o u ld be re q u i re d to gi ve pe r ce n t .

o n 10 p o u nd s o f y arn ? Fo r pe r ce n t . o n 5 p o u nd s ? Fo r 2 5 pe r c e nt . o n

3 p o u nd s ?
1 62 . Ho w m uch b o ra x w o uld be re q ui re d to gi ve a li t re o fa so lu t i o n s u ch

t h at 1 0 cc . w o u ld be e q ui va le nt to 2 pe r ce nt . o n 5 g ra m s ? Ho w m a n y bi cu c

ce n t i m e t e rs o fa b o r a x so lu t i o n co nt a i ni n g5 g 0 ra ms pe r li t re w o u ld be nee de d

to gi ve 2 pe r ce nt . o n 5 g ra m s ?
1 63 . 1 00 g ra k
ms pe r 1 00 ilo s i s e q u i va le nt t o h o w m a n o u n ce s pe r 1 00 y
p o u nds ? 10
gra m s p e r i lo i s e q u i v a lekn t t o h o w m a n ra i n s pe r o u nd ? yg p
2 o u n ce s pe r 1 00 po u nd s q u i va le nt t o
is e h w m ny g m
o a ra s pe r 1 00 k il o s ?
1 o u n ce 53 g ra i ns
pe r po und i s e quivale nt t o h w m y g mo an ra s pe r k il o ?
1 64 If a5 g ra m sa m pl w d y d wi th r c e nt f co lo r , h o w m u ch
-
e e re e e o
.
p .

(i n o unce s a nd g ra i ns )w o uld be ne e d dt bt
e o o ain the sa me co lo r o n 1 00 po u nd s

o f m at e ri al ?
86 I
D YE N G AN D TEXTILE CHEM IS TR Y .

Compar e t h e color of t h e t wo ske ins and i t will b e no t ic e d t hat

,

t h e chrom e d o n e i s d e e p e r in shad e Te s t t h e fas t n e ss of t h e

.

dy e ings t o washing in t h e following mann e r : Tak e a por t ion of

e ach sk e in and pl ai t i t wi t h som e s t rands of whi t e wool e n yarn ,

and t h e n scour t h e sampl e s so pr e par e d in a luk e warm dilu t e

soap solu t ion con t aining abou t 5 grams of soap p e r li t r e Ne x t
wash in fr e sh wa t e r and allow t h e t wo t e s t s ( 1 0 6 1 0 7 ) t o dry
, , ,

and compar e t h e m as t o t h e loss of color and as t o t h e amoun t of

color t hat bl e e ds in t o t he whi t e wool .

Ex pe ri m e n t 44 Us e o f Ac e ti c Aci d i n Dy e i n g Aci d Co lo r s
. .

Som e of t h e acid dy e s t e nd t o go on t o t h e fibr e t o o rapidly if

sulphuric acid i s us e d in t h e bat h owing t o t he fac t t hat t he color
,

acid is lib e rat e d t o o rapidly and has a s t rong affi ni t y for t h e fibr e ;
h e nc e un e ve n dy e ings are liabl e t o r e sult This fault may b e .

avoid e d by using a w e ak acid such as ac e t ic acid and no t

, ,

adding all of t h e acid at onc e b ut in s e v e r al po r t ions To mor e .

t horoughly e xh aus t t h e ba t h som e sulphuric acid may b e add e d

t owards t h e e nd of t h e dy e ing op e ra t ion Pr e par e a d y e b at h

.
-

con t aining 3 00 cc of wat e r 2 0 pe r c e n t of glaub e rs alt and

.
,
.
,

1 p e r c e n t Ali z arin L a n ac yl B lu e
. and d ye a sk e in of wool e n
,

yarn as usu al for 2 0 minu t e s t h e n lift t he sk e in ( 1 0 8 ) an d add

,

2 p e r c e n t of ac e t ic acid
. and con t inu e t h e dy e ing for 1 0 minu t e s
,

L ift t h e sk e in a s e cond t im e and add 2 pe r c e n t of .

sulphuric acid and con t inu e dy e ing for 1 5 minu t e s Th e n wash .

and dry
Expe rim e n t 4 5 Use o f a Chr o m o tr Op Dy e
.
—
This class of .

dye s give s re d or brown colors wh e n dy e d in an acid bat h b u t ,

t h e color so ob t ain e d i s of li t t l e impor t anc e Wh e n aft e r t r e at e d

.
-
,

how e v e r wi t h solu t ions of m e t al lic sal t s (such as chrom e ) t h e

,

color ch ange s t o black and b e com e s v e ry fas t Pr e par e a bat h con .

t aining 30 0 cc of wa t e r 4 p e r c e n t of sulphuric acid 2 0 p e r c e n t

.
,
.
,
.

of glau b e r s al t and 6 pe r c e n t of Ch ro m o t ro p F B d y e t wo sk e ins

,
.

of wool e n y arn in t his b at h in t h e usu al mann e r for o ne h alf -

hour t h e n lift ( 1 1 1 ) and add 3 pe r c e n} of chrom e and 2 p e r c e n t

, . .

of sulphuric acid r e en t e r o ne of t he sk e ins and con t inu e boiling

,

for 2 0 minu t e s
 A PPL I CA TI O N OF AC D D I Y ES . 87

Experi m e nt 4 6 Ph t h ale i n Dy e s
. Us e Th e s e dy e s are
o f .

r e pr e s e n t e d by t he eo sins and r e lat e d coloring mat t e rs Th e y -

.

ar e appli e d in n e u t ral or w e akly acid ba t hs and giv e d e lic at e ,

re d and pink shad e s which a re charac t e ri z e d by a p e culi ar brigh t

n e ss and fluor e sc e nc e Th e shad e s may also b e mad e mor e .

brillian t by dy e ing on wool which has firs t b e e n t re at e d wi t h

alum Pr e par e a b at h con t aining 3 00 cc of wat e r 1 0 p e r c e n t
. .
,
.

of glaub e r s alt and 1 p e r c e n t of E osin and d ye a sk e in of wool e n

,
.
,

yarn in t h e usual mann e r ( 1 1 3 ) Pr e par e a s e cond ba t h con .

t aining 3 0 0 cc of wa t e r 1 0 p e r c e n t of gla u b e r s alt 5 p e r c e n t o f

.
,
.
,
.

a ce t ic acid and 1 p e r c e n t of E osin and d y e a sk e in of wool e n

,
.
,

yarn in t h e usual mann e r Pr e par e a t hird bat h con t aining

cc of wa t r r c e n t of alum and c n t of t ar t ar and
3 00 . e 5 p e , 5 p e r e . .
,

5 p e r c e n t of ac e t.ic acid ; boil a sk e in of wool e n y arn in t his ba t h

for o ne half hour t h e n lift and add 1 p e r c e n t of E osin and
-
, ,
.
,

con t inu e dy e ing for 2 0 minu t e s Th e E ry t hrosin e Phlox ,

i ne and R os e B e ng al e also b e long t o t his group of ph t hale in

,

dy e s Th e t ar t ar is us e d in t h e b at h t o aid in t h e d e composi t ion

.

of t h e alum .

Expe ri m en t 4 7 Ge n e r al Me t h o d o f Dy e i n g Aci d Dy e s on Co t
.

to n .
—
Co tt on has no dir e c t afli ni t y for t h e acid colors and r e quir e s
a b asic mordan t t o combin e wi t h t h e color acid of t h e dy e s t u ff -
.

Alum is use d a t t im e s for t hi s purpos e Pre par e a b at h con t aining .

2 5 0 cc of wa t e r 2 0 p e r c e n t O f alum 2 0 p e r c e n t of gla u b e r s alt

.
,
.
,
.
,

and 2 p e r c e n t of Wa t e r B lu e ; e n t e r a sk e in of co t t on yarn a t
.

1 40
°
F rais e t o 1 80 F and k e e p at t ha t t e mp e ra t ur e for 4 5
.
,
°
.

minu t e s ; t h e n squ e e z e and dry wi t hou t washing It will

”
b e no t ic e d t hat a rat h e r conc e n t rat e d or shor t ba t h i s e mploy e d
and t hat e ve n t h e n t he e xh aust ion i s v e ry imp e rfe c t Th e s e .

dy e s ar e no t much us e d on co t t on a t t h e pr e se n t t im e e xc e p t for ,

such mat e rials as cur t ains e t c wh e r e brigh t colors a re d e sir e d ,

.
,

which have good fas t n e ss t o ligh t and wh e r e fas t n e ss t o washing

i s no t d e mand e d T0 show t h e lack of fast n e ss t o washing of
.

t his color plai t a por t ion of t h e dy e d sampl e wi t h som e s t rands

,

of whi t e co t t on yarn and scour t his t e s t sampl e i n a dilu t e soap

,

solu t ion i t will b e found t ha t t h e color will wash o u t almos t

88 D YE N G AN D I T EX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

comple t e ly Wh e n appli e d t o co t t on t h e s e dye s are usually

.
,

“ ”
known as alum colors b e caus e t h at sal t is use d in t he b at h .

Exp e ri m e n t 4 8 Dy e i n g i n a Ne u tr al Salt B a t h
. This m e t hod .

i s g e n e rally e mploy e d for t h e dy e ing of brigh t pal e shad e s

on co t t on wi t h t h e acid dy e s Use a ske in of bl e ach e d co t t on .

yarn and d ye in a b at h con t aining 2 50 cc of wat e r 1 0 grams

,
.
,

of common sal t and IO p e r c e n t of E osin ; work for 4 5 minu t e s

-
,
.

a t a t e mp e ra t ur e of 1 40 F t h e n squ e e z e and dry wi t hou t washing

°

Th e larg e amoun t of sal t e mploy e d h e lps t o b e t t e r

e xhaus t t h e b a t h as t h e dy e s t uff is l e ss solubl e in sal t solu t ions
,
.

Th e b at h how e v e r is in no wis e e xhaus t e d and should b e

, ,
“ ”
e mploy e d in prac t ic e for a s t anding bat h for t h e dye ing of
subs e qu e n t lo t s .

Exp e ri m e n t 4 9 Us e o f B lu e Mo r d an t
.
”
This mord an t is a .

t ar t rat e of alumini um and may b e pr e par e d by dissolving 2 2 par t s

,

of aluminium sulphat e in 4 5 p ar t s of wat e r and t h e n adding a ,

solu t ion of 4 5 par t s of t ar t aric acid dissolve d in 2 0 par t s of wa t e r ,

aft e r which gradually add a solu t ion of ca . par t s of sod a ash in

35 par t s of wa t e r and dilu t e t h e,

whol e t o 1 75 par t s wi t h wa t e r .

For mordan t ing u se 1 par t of t his solu t ion t o 3 0 par t s of wa t e r

, ,

or 1 0 cc t o 3 00 cc o f wat e r Work a sk e in of co tt on y arn in a

. . .

“ ”
b at h con t aining 3 00 cc of wat e r 1 0 cc o f blu e mord an t and .
,
.
,

1 p e r c e n t o f Wa t e r B lu e 6B for o ne h a lf hour a t 1 60 F Squ ee ze

° -
. .

and dry wi t hou t washing

Ex pe ri m e n t 5 0 Us e o f So di um Stann a t e Mo r dant
. This .

sal t i s e asily d e compos e d wh e n i t s solu t ion i s boil e d an d t hus ,

lib e rat e s oxid e of t i n in t h e fibr e It is us e d as fo llows : St e e p .

a sk e in of co t t on yarn for o ne h al f hour in a b at h con t aining -

2 0 0 cc of wa t e r and 5 grams of sodium s t annat e at 1 80 F °

. .

R e move t he sk e in squ e e z e and d y e in a bat h con t aining 2 50 cc

, , .

of wat e r and 1 p e r c e n t of Ponc e au 4 B and 5 pe r c e n t of alum ; . .

e n t e r a t 1 40 F gradu all y rai s e t o 1 9 0 F and d y e a t t hat

°
.
,
°
.
,

t e mp e rat ur e for o ne h alf hour Squ e e ze and dry Wi t hou t

-
.

washing
Ex pe ri m e nt 5 1 Dy e i n g o f Silk . i t h Aci d Dy e s Dye a W .

t e st sk e in of silk yarn i n a ba t h con t aining 1 50 cc of wa t e r

-
.
,
9 0 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CHEMIS TR Y .

NOTES .

1 . Li s t Pri n ci pal Aci d Dy e s tu fi s

o f th e The acid dy e s t o b e .

m e t wi t h upon t h e mark e t at t h e pr e s e n t t im e includ e a v e ry

larg e numb e r This is fur t h e r incr e as e d by t h e fac t t hat many
.

d iffe r e n t nam e s a re fr e qu e n t ly giv e n t o t h e sam e dy e s t u ff by

d i ff e r e n t manufac t ur e rs and d e ale rs and s t ill fur t h e r by t h e u se ,

o f mix e d dy e s t o produc e diff e r e n t shad e s and t on e s It would .

b e prac t ically impossibl e t o giv e a compl e t e lis t of all t h e acid

d y e s which a re sold b u t t h e following wi ll giv e a fair id e a of t h e ,

princip al dy e s Th e y are roughly classifi e d according t o color

. .

(a ) RED .

Aci d Ca rmo i si ne . Azo G re na di ne .

Aci d Ce ri se . Azo Phlo xi ne .

Aci d Fu ch si ne . Azo O rse ille .

Aci d Ma g e nta . Azo Re d .

Aci d Ma ro o n . Azo R u i ne b .

Aci d Re d . B e nz l Re d y .

Aci d R ho da mi ne . B ie bi
r ch Aci d Re d .

Aci d Ro sa m i ne . B ie bi
r ch Sca rle t .

Aci d Po nce au . B o rde aux .

Al k a li F a s t Re d . B ri lli a nt Aci d Carm i ne .

Am ara nt h . B ri lli ant B o rd ea ux .

Am i do Na h t h o l Re d p . B ri lli ant Ca rm o i s i ne .

An i so li ne . B ri lli a nt Co ch i ne a l .

Ant h ra ce ne R e d . B rilli a nt Cro ce i ne .

A po llo R e d . B ri lli ant Do u le Sca rle t b .

b
A rch i l Su st i t u t e . B rilli a nt Fas t Re d .

Azo Aci d Carm i ne . B rilli a nt O rse ille .

Az o Acid F u ch si ne . B ri lli a nt Po n cea u .

Azo Aci d Ru i ne b . B ri lli a nt R u i ne b .

Azo Aci d Ma e nt a g . B rilli a nt Sca rle t .

Az o B o rde aux . B ri lli a nt Sulph o n Re d .

Azo Ca rdi nal . Cardi na l .

Az o Carm i ne . Ca rd i nal R e d .

Az o Co cci ne . Ca rmo i s i ne .

Az o Co ch i ne a l . Ce ra si ne .

Az o Cri m so n . Ch ro m a zo n Re d .

Azo Eo si n . Ch ro mo t ro p .

Azo Fu ch si ne . Ch ro m o t ro p 2R .
 A PPL I CA TI O N OF I
A C D D YES .
9 1

Co nt i n u e d .

y
Cla t o n Clo t h Re d . Milli ng Re d .

Clo t h Re d . Mi lli ng Sca rle t .

Clo t h Sca rle t . N ap h t h o ru b i ne .

Co cci ne . p
N a h t ho l R e d .

Co cci ni ne . p
N a h t h o l Sca rle t .

Co ch i ne al Re d . Na ph t h ylami ne Re d .

Co ch i ne a l Sca rle t . N e w Cla re t .

Co tt o n Sca rle t . Ne w Co cci ne .

Cre so l Re d .

Cro ce i ne . O rce lli ne .

Cro ce i ne Sca rle t . O rse i lle R e d .

Cr yt
s al Po n ce a u . Pa la t i ne Re d .

Cya no si ne . Pala t i ne Sca rle t .

b
Do u le B rilli a nt Sca rle t . Phlo x i ne .

Do u ble P o nce au . Po n ce a u .

Do u bl S e carle t . Pyro t i ne Re d .

Emi n Re d . Ro cce lli ne .

Eo sa m i ne . Ro ck Sca rle t .

Eo si n . Ro saz e i ne .

Eo si n Sca rle t . R o se B e n g ale .

y
Er t h ri ne . Ro si nd u li ne .

E yt h
r ro si ne . Ro xa m i ne .

Fa st Aci d Eo si n . Sali ci ne Re d .

Fa st Aci d Fu ch si ne . Sca rle t .

Fa st Aci d Ph lo x i ne . Silk Re d .

Fa st B o rd ea ux . Silk Sca rle t .

Fa st Clare t Re d . So rb i ne Re d .

Fast Po n cea u . Sul ph o n Ca rm i ne .

F a s t Re d . To lane Re d .

Fa s t Sca rle t . Tye mo nd Re d .

Flo rid a Re d . Tye mo nd Sca rle t .

G u i ne a B o rde a u x . Vi ct o ri a Ru i ne b .

G u i ne a Carm i ne . Vi ct o ri a Sca rle t .

La na fuch s i ne . Vi o la m i ne .

Mars Re d . Wo o l Re d .

Me rce ri ne Wo o l Re d . Wo o l Sca rlet .

Merce ri ne Wo o l Scarlet .
9 2 D YE N G AN D I TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

(b ) O RAN G E .

Anili ne O ran g e . Mi lli ng O ra n ge .

Au rant i a . O ra n g e I .

B rilli ant O ra n g e . O ra n g e II .

Cro ce i ne O ra n g e . O ra n g e IV .

Cr y s t al O ra n g e . O ra ng e R, G , et c .

Go ld O ra n g e . Pala t i ne O ra n g e .

K e rm e si ne O ra n g e . Pyro ti ne O ra e ng .

Mandari n G . Tye mo nd O r an e g .

Y ELLOW .

Aci d Ye llo w . Me rce ro l Wo o l Y e llo w .

Alk li a Y ll w
e o . Me ta ni l Ye llo w .

Alp i n e Y ll w
e o . M illi ng Ye llo w .

Azo Aci d Y e llo w . p

Na h t ho l Ye llo w .

Azo Fla vi ne . p
N a h t ho l Y e llo w S .

Az o Y e llo w . Na p ht hyl a m i ne Ye llo w .

B ri lli ant Y e llo w . New Y ello w .

Ch i no li ne Ye ll w o . Pe rsi an Ye llo w .

Oh ryso i ne . Pi cri c Aci d .

Ci ne re i ne .
Qui no li ne Y e llo w .

Ci t ro ni ne . Re so r ci ne Y e llo w .

Cu r cum i ne . So li d Y e llo w .

Fa st Ye llo w . Sun Ye llo w .

g
Fast Li h t Ye llo w . Tart raz i ne .

Fla v ani li ne . Tro po eo li ne '

.

Flav azi ne . Tye m o nd Ye llo w .

Go lde n Ye llo w . Ura ni ne .

He li a nt h i ne . Vi ct o ri a Y e llo w .

Ind i an Y e llo w .

Mart i ns Ye ll w o . Xa nt h ami ne .

(d) GREEN .

Aci d Gre e n . B rilli a nt Mi lli ng G ree n .

k
Al ali Fast Gree n . Cyn a o le G ree n .

Ali z ar i n G re e n . Cyp ru s G ree n .

Ali za ri n C a ni ne G ree n y . D i am o nd G ree n .

An t h ra ce ne Aci d G ree n . Do m i n g o Gree n .

y
B e nz l G re e n . Ebo li G ree n .

B ri lli ant Aci d G re e n . Fast Aci d G re e n .

94 D YE N G AN D I TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

Co nt i nu e d .

Nap h t h az i ne B lue . Sa pphi re B lu e .

p
Na h t ho l B lue . Si lk B l ue .

Na p h t h yl B l ue . So li d B lue .

Na v y Bl ue . b
So lu le B lue .

Ne w Pa t e nt B lue . p
S i ri t B lue .

g
Ni h t B lu e . Sulph o n Acid B lue .

Op l Bla ue . Thi o ca rmi ne .

P a t e nt Blu e . Ura ni a B lue .

Pa t e nt M ari ne B lue . Vi cto ri a Mari ne B lue .

Pa t e nt Ne u t ra l B lue . Wa te r B lue .

Pe ri W001 Blue . W00 1 B lue .

Pure B lue . Wo o l Mari ne B lue .

0) VIO L ET .

Acid Mauve . Fo rmyl Vio le t .

Aci d Vi o le t . G ui nea Vi o le t .

Alk a li Vi o le t . La na cyl Vi o le t .

Az o Aci d V io le t . Naph t hyl V i o le t .

B e nz a l V i o le t . Ne u t ra l Vi o le t .

B e nz y l Vi o le t . R e d V i o le t .

B i e b ri ch Aci d V i o le t . Re gi na Vi o le t .

Fa st Aci d V i o le t . V i ct o ri a Vi o le t .

Fa st Sulpho n V i o le t . Vi o la m i ne .

Fa st Vi o le t . Wo o l Vi o le t .

(g) B ROWN .

wn
Aci d B ro . Da r k A i d B wn
c ro .

A zo B wn ro . Fast B ro wn .

Bi m
s k A i d B wn
arc c ro . Ma rro n .

B ro nzeA id B w c ro n . p
Na ht h o l B ro wn .

Ch t t B wn
e s nu ro . Naph t hyla mi ne B ro wn .

Ch m g
ro o en . Re so rci n B ro wn .

Cl y t n W l B wn
a o oo ro .

( h) B LACK .

Aci d B la c k . Anthra ce ne Aci d Black .

Aliz a ri n B la c k . Ant hra ci t e Bla c k .

Ami do Na ht h o l B lac p k . Azo Aci d B lac k .

An ili ne Gra y . Azo B la c k .

 A PPL I CA TI O N OF A C ID D YES .
95

B LACK . Co nt i nu e d .

Azo Me ri no B lac k . Naph t h yl B lue B la c k .

B ie b ri ch Pa t e nt Bla c k . Na p h t h ylam i ne B la c k .

B rilli a nt B la c k . Ne ro l .

Ca sh me re B la c k . Ne w Vi cto ri a B la c k .

Co o m as s i e B lac k . N i r o s i ne g .

Copp B l k er ac . Pa la t i ne B la c k .

D p Bl k
ee ac . Pat e nt Pa lat i ne B la c k .

D mi g A i d B l k
o n o c ac . Phe no l B la c k .

D mi g A
o Bl k
n o zo ac . P h e n la mi ne B la c y k .

D mi g Bl
o Bl k
n o ue ac . Ph e ny l e ne B la c k .

D m i ng V i l t B l k
o o o e ac . Si l k B la c k .

M l W l Bl k
e r ce ro o o ac . Su da n B la c k .

M t h n Bl k
e a e ac . Vi ct o ri a B la ck .

N ph t yl B l k
a ac ac . Wo o l B la ck .

N pht h li n A i d B l k
a a e c ac . Wo o l De e p B la ck .

N p ht h l B l k
a o ac . Wo o l Gra y .

S AMP LES .

Wo o l no t a ci d i fi ed, d y ed .

Aci di fie d w o o ld y ed .

Clo t h Re d b e fo re c h ro mi n g .

Clo t h Re d a ft e r ch ro mi ng .

Sco ur i n gt e st o f un ch ro m e d sa m pl e .

Sco u ri n gt e st o f ch ro m e d sa m pl e .

Al iza ri n L a na cyl Blu e b e fo re a d di n g a ci d .

Aft e r a d di t i o n o f a ce t i c a ci d .

Aft er a ddi ti o n o f s u l h uri c p a ci d .

Ch ro mo t ro p d ye b e fo re ch ro mi n g .

Chro mo t ro p d ye a ft e r ch ro m in g .

Ph t h ale i n dye i n ne u t ral b at h .

Ph t h ale i n d ye i n a ce t i c a ci d b at h .

Ph t h a le i n dye o n o o l t re a t e d i t h w w a lum .

Wa t e r B lue o n co t t o n i t h a lum w .

Sco uri n gt e st wi th W t a er B lu e .

Aci d dye o n co t to n i n ne u tral s alt a t h b .

Use o f
“ ”
b
lue m o rdant o n co t t o n .

Use o f so di um st annat e mo rd a nt o n co t to n .

G e ne ral m e t ho d y ing ilk w i th i d dy o fd e s ac es .

Dy i ng i lk i n n
e ti
s id b th a a ce c ac a .

Dy i ng ilk wi th a ci d dy i n b th f b il d
e s e a o o e -
o ff
9 6 D YEI N G AN D TEX TI LE CHEMIS TR Y .

Q U IZ 7 .

1 65 . Do e s w oo l co b
m i ne ch e mi lly w i t h
ca a cid s ? Wh at p ro o f ca n yo u gi ve

o f t hi s ?
1 66 . Do e s aci di fi ed w oo l re a ct i n t he sa me m anne r a s o rd i na r yw o o l wi t h
a ci d co lo rs ? What i s the rea so n o f t hi s ?
1 67 . What i s m ea nt by “
ca r b o nize d sh o dd ? y Why d o e s t hi s d ye up

di ffe re ntl yf ro m o rdi na r yw oo l?

1 68 . Wh at is ch ro me ? Wh at i s its a ct i o n o n so me aci d d y es ? What is
t he p p u r o se o f t he a ft e r-t rea t me nt wi th h c ro me ?
1 69 . Ho w i s t he a ft e r-t re a t me nt wi t h ch ro me ca rri ed o ut ? Wh at ef
fe ct
h as t h e t re a t m e nt o n t he sh a de o f Clo t h Re d ?
7 0 Do e s t h e t re a t m e nt
1 . i t h ch ro m e h a ve a ny w ef
fe ct o n t he fas t ness o f
Clo t h R e d t o s co u ri n ? Ho w was t h e sco uri n t e st g g co nd u ct e d ?
1 71 . Why is a ce t i c a ci d so me t i me s u se d i n pl ace o f s ul ph u ri c a ci d i n t he
d y i ng
e o f a ci d co lo rs ?
1 7 2 . Ho w i s a ce ti c a ci d a ppli ed i n t he a ci d dye -
b a th ? Wh y is sul ph uri c

a ci d o ft e n a d de d to w ards t he e nd o f t he d y i ng ?
e

1 73 . Ho w a re t he Ch ro mo t ro p d yes a ppli ed ? Expla i n t h e a ct i o n o f m e t a lli c

salts o n t he co lo r .

1 74 . What co lo r do e s Ch ro mo t ro p FB gi ve b e fo re c h ro mi n ? g Aft e r
c h ro min ? g
1 75 . Wh at i s me ant by a pht h ale i n d ye ? Wh at ch ara ct e ri s ti c p p ro e rty

do t h e se d y p es ? o sse ss

1 76 . In w h t t h wy my
a ree a s a eo si n be a ppli ed to w oo l? Co m pa re t he
re sult s o f th p e ro ce sse s .

1 77 . O f w h t h mi l h
a t c e ca c ara c e r a re the ph t h ale i n d y es ? Expla i n t he
a ct i o n o f th l m n t h d y t ff
e a u o e es u .

1 78 . In t h p p e t i n f th w
re a ra o o e oo l w i th a lu m , wh at i s t he a ct i o n o f t he
t a rt a r ?
1 79 . Wh at o t her dye s be lo ng t o th e p h th ale i n clas s ? Wh at co lo rs are t he se
d y es ?
1 80 . Ho w m u st co t to n b e p p re a re d in o rde r t o d ye wi t h a ci d co lo rs ? Wh at
ch ara ct e r o f mo rdant mu st b e use d ?
1 81 . Wh at mo rdant i s mo stly u se d fo r dye ing a ci d co lo rs o n co tt o n ? Ho w
i s the d y i ng p
e o e ra t i o n ca rri e d o u t ?
1 82 . Wh at i s mea nt by a
“
sh o rt b ath ? Do e s t he a ci d d ye - b at h wi th
co tt o n exh a u st w e ll ?

1 83 . Are a ci d d y es mu ch use d fo r co t t o n d y i ng ?
e On wh at classe s o f co tto n
g oo ds a re the ym o st l y u se d ?
1 84 . Are t h e a ci d d y e s o n co tt o n fa st t o li ght ? To w a shi n g ? Wh at was
t he re sult o f y o ur w gt
as hi n e s t , a nd h o w wa s t h e t e s t co nd u ct e d ?
1 85 . What i s mea nt by
“
alu m
”
co lo rs o n co t t o n, a nd why a re t h e y so calle d
 S ECT I ON VIII .

REPRESEN TA TIVE ACID DYES .

Ex pe ri m e nt 5 4 . A ci d Dy e s o n Wo o l
Re pr e s e n ta ti v e Dy e .

t e s t sk e ins of wool e n yarn in b a t hs con t ai n i ng 3 00 cc of wa t e r

-
.
,

2 0 p e r c e n t of gla u b e r s al t 4 r c e n t of sulphuric acid and 1 p e r

.
p e ,
.
,

c e n t r e sp e c t iv e ly of t he followi n g dy e s t u ffs :
.

N ap h t ho l R e d EB (C ass ) . Ac i d Viol e t 5 B F (M e t z )
Emin R e d (B e r ) . Pa t e n t B lu e V (Me t z )
Tar t raz in e (K P) . . O rang e II ( S & S )
. .

N aph t hol Y e llow S (Sc h ) . W0 0 1 B lu e 2 B

Ali z arin B lu e SAE (E lb ) . Acid G r e e n (Elb ) .

En t e r at 1 40F gradually rais e t o t h e boil and con t inu e a t t hat

°
,

t e mp e ra t ur e for o ne h alf hour ; wash w e ll and dry

-
Th e s e t e s t .

sk e ins a re t o b e pr e s e rv e d for t h e purpos e of t e s t ing t h e colors for

fas t n e ss t o various ag e nci e s .

Ex pe ri m e n t 5 5 R e pr e s e n t a ti ve Aci d Dy e s o n Co tt o n
. Dy e .

t e s t sk e ins of co t t on y a rn in ba t h s con t aining 200 cc of wa t e r

-
.
,

2 0 p e r c e n t of alum and 5 0 p e r c e n t of common sal t a t a t e mp e ra

.
,
.
-

t ur e of 1 80 F for 1 hour
°
. Wring o u t and dry wi t hou t washing
. .

Pr e s e rve t h e dy e d sk e ins for t h e purpose of t e s t ing t h e colors for

fas t n e ss .

Use 1 0 p e r c e n t of t h e following dy e s t u ffs

.

B rilli an t O r ang e G ( M e t z )
Ponc e au 4 R (B e r ) .

R os e B e ngal e (M e t z )
Me t hyl B lu e (B e r ) .

B rilli an t Croc e in e M (Cass ) .

Me t an i l Y e llow (B e r ) .

Ery t hrosin e B (Cass ) .

Iri s a m i ne G (Cass ) .
 REPRES E N TA TI VE A C ID D YES .
99

Expe ri m e n t 5 6 R e pr e s e n ta ti v e A ci d Dy e s o n Si lk Dye t e s t
. .
-

sk e ins of Silk yarn in bat h s con t aining 1 50 cc of wa t er 1 5 cc of .

,
.

boil e d O ff liquor and acidify wi t h sulphuric acid Dy e for

-
, .

1 hour a t 1 80 F Wash w e ll and brigh t e n wi t h t ar t aric acid

°
. .

Us e 2 p e r c e n t of t h e following dy e s t uffs .

Acid M ag e n t a (R H ) Crys t al Ponc e au 6 R (C ass ) . .

Acid Viole t 4RS (Me t z )

Me t hyl B lu e for silk (Me t z ) Cy anol e B B (Cass ) .

O rang e II ( S SI S ) Acid G r e e n (E lb )
. . .

L yons B lu e (S S) Az o F u c h s i ne (E lb )
. . .

Silk B lack 4 B F (B e r ) 6 pe r c e n t . .

NO TES .

1 . Manufac tu r e r s
Dy e s tu ff Th e abbr e via t ions aft e r t h e .

na me s of t h e dy e s t u ffs r e fe r t o t h e nam e s of t h e manufac t ur e rs or

Am e rican ag e n t s as t h e cas e may b e Th e principal m an u fac ,
.

t u r e r s of dy e s t u ffs wi t h t h e ir Am e rican ag e n t s a r e as follows :

B a d fo r B a d i s ch e Co m
. p y an (fo rme rly K u tt ro fl Pi ck h a rdt , 81 g nt fa e s o r

t h e B a di s ch e Anili n u n d So d a Fa b ri k (B A s F) . . . . o f Lu d wi g h f n s a e ,

G e rm a n y .

b nf b i k
Elb fo r Fa r e a r e n o f El e rfe ld Co m a n , a e nt s fo r t h e sa m e co m a n
. b p y g p y
o f El e rfe ld , G e rm a n b y .

B er fo r B e rli n Anili ne Wo r s , a e nt s fo r t h e Act i e n G e se llsch a ft fu r An i li n

. k g
Fa b ikr at i o n , o f B e rli n, G e rm a n y .

Ca s s . fo r Casse lla Co lo r Co m p y gan ,

a e nt s fo r Leo p o ld Ca sse lla Co .
,
o f
k
Fran fo rt , G e rm a n y .

Metz fo r H A Me t z
. . Co .
,
a g e nt s fo r t he Fa rb w e rke Ho ch st , vo r ms . Me i st e r ,

Lu ci u s , 81 B run i g Co m p y an ,
o f Ho ch st , G e rm a n y .

K alle fo r K a lle Co .
,
a g e nt s fo r t h e sa m e co m p ny
a ,
o f B ie b ri ch , G e rm a n y .

S y kes fo r Walt e r F . S yk es Co .
(fo rm e rly S yk es St re e t ) , a g ent s fo r So ci ét é
y
An o n m e d e s Ma t i é re s Co lo ra nt e s et Pro d u i t s Ch i m i q u e s d e St . De n i s ,
o f Fra n ce .

N a t fo r Na t i o na l Ani li ne Co m a n (fo rm e rl Ha rt fo rd , Ha nna

. p y y Sch o e ll k pf o

p y
Co m a n ) , o f B uffa lo , Am e ri ca n m a nu fa ct u re rs o f d e s y .

B ch . fo r B e ach 8: Co .
,
a g e nt s fo r B ri t i sh Ali z ari n Co mp y an ,
Enla nd ; fo r
g
B ro o k e, Si m p so n , S i lle p
r, En la nd ; fo g r Fa rb we rke G ri e sh e i m , Ge r
m an y; and fo r So ci ét é Ch i m i q ue d e s Usi ne s d e Rh o ne , Fra n ce .

B d fo r
.
J . A . W . B i rd Co m p ny g
a ,
a e nt s y
fo r t h e Cla t o n Ani li ne Co m p ny
a ,

En lan d g .
 IO O D YE N G AN D I TEXTILE CHEMIS TR Y .

B s fo
. r C B i s cho ff 8: Co
. .
,
a g e nt s fo r Fa rb e nfa b ri ke n Da hl 81 Co .
,
El b e rfe ld ,

G e rm a n y ,
a nd fo r Fa rb we rk Mii hlh e i m ,
vo r m s A Le o nh a rd t 81 Co
. . .
,

M ti hlh ei m ,
G e rm an y .

K lp fo r A K li
. . p st e i n Co .
,
a e nt sg fo r Fa r bw k er e vo r m s Dura nd , Hu
. gu e ni n

81 Co .
, w
B as le , S i t z e rland ; fo r G e se llsch a ft fii r Ch e m i sch e Ind us t ri e , o f
B as le , S i t ze rla n d ; w a nd fo r Ca rl Neuh a u s , o f Elb e rfe ld , G e rm an y .

K ell fo r . Jo h n J . K e lle r Co .
,
a g e nt s fo r Ani li n u nd Ext ra ct Fa b ik
r e n, o f
B a sle , S i tze rla n d w .

Lev fo . r
'

Levi n st e i n, Sla ckle 8L Cru m p g

sa ll, En la nd .

Gy fo r G e i
. gy
Anili ne a nd Ext ra ct Co m p ny g a ,
a e nt s fo r t he sa m e co m p y an ,
o f
B asle , S i tz e rla nd w .

Gei fo . r G e i se nh e i m e r Co .
,
a g e nt s fo r K . O e hle r, O ffe n b h G m y ac ,
er an .

RH fo . r Re a d Ho lli da y 8: So ns, g nt a e s fo r t he sa me co mp y f E gl d
an ,
o n an .

Ly fo
. r Th o m as Le la nd 8: Co y . g nt
,
a e s fo r Le v i nst e i n , E gl d
n an .

AD . fo r And re yko v i cz 8L Du n k g c , a e nt s fo r Che mi s c h F b ik e m a r e n, vo r s .

W e ile r- t e r - Me e r Ue rdi nge n

, , G e rm an y .

Th e l e tt e rs aft e r t h e n am e s of d ye s t u fl s a re usually priva t e

t rad e dis t inc t ions for t h e u s e of t h e manufac t ur e r in id e n t i fying
t h e color Th e y may also r e fe r t o t he par t icular shad e of t h e
.

dy e s t u ff as for e xampl e B s t ands for blu e sh ad e R for a r e d

, , , ,

shad e G (ge lb ) for a y e llow shad e e t c

, ,
.

2 On t h e Pr o pe r St o r a ge o f Dy e s tu ffs
. Dy e s t u ffs should b e .

k e p t in a cool dry r o om and any b arr e ls or t ins which hav e b e e n ,

op e n e d should b e k e p t w e ll cov e r e d up o t h e rwis e o ne color may ,

b e com e con t aminat e d by dus t from ano t h e r d ye and t h e d ye ,

s t u ffs are li abl e t o absorb mois t ur e from t he air Th e absorp t ion .

of mois t ur e may caus e t h e dy e s t u ff t o cak e t oge t h e r and b e com e

di ffi cul t t o dissolve and b e sid e s t h e dye s t u ff will al t e r i t s w e igh t
,

by t h e amoun t of mois t ur e absorb e d St e am from t h e dye hous e .

S hould b e car e fully e xclud e d from t h e drug room in wh i ch t h e

dye s are s t or e d Dy e st u ffs in t h e form of pas t e s should always

.

b e w e ll s t irr e d up b e for e w e ighing o u t and should b e k e p t from

e xp o sur e t o t h e air o t h e rwis e t h e wa t e r of t h e pas t e will e vapora t e
,

and t h e dy e s t u ff wi ll al t e r v e ry mat e ri ally in i t s s t re ng t h Past e .

dy e s are usually of 2 0 p e r c e n t s t r e ng t h ; t hat is t h e y con t ain .

,

20
p e r c e n t of ac t ual dy e s t
. u ff t h e r e
st b e ing wa t e r ,
.

3 On t h e Di ss o lvi n g of Dy e s tu ffs
. Dy e s should b e d i ssolv e d .

by s t irring up wi t h a suffi ci e n t amoun t of pur e boiling wa t e r .

 02 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

4 . Appa r a t u s fo r Dy e in g Y arn is mos t ly dy e d in sui t abl e

.

wood e n va t s t h e sk e ins b e ing susp e nd e d in t h e vat s from wood e n

,

s t icks M any dy e s ar e mor e or l e ss s e nsi t iv e t o t h e ac t ion of

.

m e t als t hough in many case s bronz e or copp e r surfac e s may b e

,

in con t ac t wi t h t h e dy e v a t wi t hou t injury t o t h e color Silk i s

-
.

fr e qu e n t ly dy e d in copp e r vat s Th e s e nsi t ive n e ss of mos t dy e s

.

t o copp e r may b e avoid e d by t h e placing of s t rips of z i nc in t h e

v a t or by t h e addi t i on of ammonium sulphocyanid e Y arn may .

also b e dy e d on machin e s wh e r e t h e hanks ar e t urn e d m e c h ani

,

c ally L oose wool i s fre qu e n t ly dy e d by p o le i ng in large round

.

copp e r va t s ; i t may also b e dy e d in ro t a t ing m achin e s Clo t h i s .

g e n e rally dy e d in vat s b e ing t urn e d by m e ans of a r e volving

,

winch ; or i t may b e dy e d on a jigg e r consis t ing of t w o s e t s of ,

roll e rs which 1 0 11 t h e clo t h on and o ff t hrough t he d y e liquor .

Warps are also dy e d by machin e s Y arn may also b e dy e d in .

cops by m e ans of sui t able machin e s so d e vis e d as t o forc e t he

d y e liquor t hrough t h e cop by pr e ssur e or suc t ion .

5
. I nfl u e n c e o f t h e Wa t e r E m p l o y e d i n Dy ng
e i Wa t e r a s .

e mploy e d in t h e dy e hous e for t h e pre p ara t ion of va t s and t h e

solu t ion of t h e dye s t u ffs and various ch e micals is ge n e rally

ob t ain e d e i t h e r from a riv e r supply or from a w e ll or spring .

R ain wa t e r is som e t ime s coll e c t e d and e mploy e d for purpos e s

-

wh e r e a v e ry pur e ar t i cl e is d e sir e d such as for t h e solu t ion o f ,

d y e s t u fl s e t c ; i t is usually no t availabl e in su ffi ci e n t quan t i t i e s

,
.

nor re gular e nough in i t s supply t o b e s e rvic e abl e for t h e pr e para

t ion of d y e va t s R ain wa t e r i s consid e r e d as t h e pur e s t form
-
.
-

of nat ural wa t e r We ll and spring wa t e r a re d e riv e d from rain

.

wa t e r which has pass e d t h rough t h e surfac e of t h e e ar t h un t il i t

has r e ac h e d an imp e rvious lay e r which caus e s i t t o coll e c t in
sub t e rran e an r e s e rvoirs from w h ich i t may b e pump e d as w e ll
wa t e r or i t may flow und e rground un t il i t e ve n t ually r e app e ars
,

a t t h e surfac e as a spring Such wa t e r usually con t a i ns variou s

.

m e t al l i c sal t s in solu t ion and g e n e rally has b u t l i t t l e insolubl e

mat t e r in susp e nsion Th e e xac t na t ur e and amoun t of t h e
.

d i ssolv e d subs t anc e s will nat urally vary consi d e rably wi t h t he

charac t e r of t he soil and rock t hrough which t he wat e r h as
 REPRES E N TA TI VE I
A C D D YES . 03

pass e d Som e rocks lik e grani t e and gn e iss ar e ve ry insol

.
, ,

ubl e and wa t e r p e rcolat ing t hrough t h e s e may b e qui t e fr e e

,

from dissolv e d impuri t i e s and springs or w e lls from such a,

“ ”
sourc e may b e qui t e soft If t h e wa t e r how e ve r in i t s p e rco
.
, ,

la t ion t hrough t h e soil p ass e s t hrough s t rat a of lim e s t on e ch al k , ,

sands t on e e t c som e min e ral compounds pass in t o solu t ion e sp e

,
.
, ,
“ ”
c i ally sal t s of magn e sia and lim e Such a wa t e r i s t e rm e d hard
. .

Iron compounds form a common cons t i t u e n t of soils and rocks ,

and cons e qu e n t ly wat e r t h at pass e s t hrough such will b e liabl e t o

con t amina t ion wi t h iron ; t his will b e mor e e sp e ci ally t h e cas e if at
t he sam e t im e i t is in con t ac t wi t h d e caying v e g e t abl e ma t t e r as ,

t h e la t t e r furnish e s c e r t ain organic acids which e x e r t a s t rong

solv e n t ac t ion on t h e iron compounds Wa t e r con t aining a .

“ ”
mark e d con t e n t of iron is t e rm e d chalyb e at e or fe rruginous .

R iv e r wat e r consis t s larg e ly of surfac e wat e r t hat is rain wa t e r

- -
, ,
-

which drains di r e c t ly from t h e surfac e of t h e soil wi t h o u t p e rco

lat ing t hrough t h e ground t o any e x t e n t ; b e sid e s t his riv e r wat e r ,
-

al so con t ains w e ll or spring wat e r fe e ding in t o i t from small

-

s t r e ams e t c having t h e ir origin in springs Th e surfac e wat e r

,
.
,
.
-

draining in t o a riv e r is li abl e t o bring in t o i t a larg e amoun t of

susp e nd e d mat t e r t hough no t so much dissolve d mat t e r Th e
,
.

nat ur e and e x t e n t of t his susp e nd e d ma tt e r will of cours e vary , ,

larg e ly wi t h t h e s e ason of t h e y e ar and t h e charac t e r of t h e

e nvironm e n t s From t his i t may b e s e e n t ha t riv e r wat e r will
.
-
,

as a rul e con t ain mor e susp e nd e d mat t e r and l e ss dissolv e d

,

mat t e r t han w e ll wat e r Th e susp e nd e d ma t t e r is comparat iv e ly

-
.

e asily r e mov e d how e v e r wh e r e as t h e dissolv e d subs t anc e s may

, ,

giv e ris e t o consid e rabl e t roubl e .

Th e influ e nc e of t h e impuri t i e s in wat e r on t h e dy e ing op e ra

t ions will d e p e nd v e ry larg e ly on t h e ch arac t e r of t h e dy e s t u ff s
e mploy e d .H ard wat e r con t aining lim e and magn e sia com
pounds as a r ul e do e s no t in t e rfe r e wi t h t h e dy e ing of colors in
, ,

an acid b at h as t h e addi t ion of t h e acid pr e v e n t s any pr e cipi t a

,

t ion of t h e coloring mat t e r by t h e m e t allic sal t

-
In c e r t ain c as e s .

t h e t on e of t h e r e sul t ing color lak e may b e som e wha t modi fi e d

-

by t h e pr e s e nc e of t he min e ral sal t s b ut such is v e ry rar e ly t he,

 IO 4 D YE I N G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

cas e Th e pr e s e nc e of iron howe v e r e v e n in v e ry sl i gh t quan

.
, ,

t i t i e s in t h e wa t e r may caus e a consid e rabl e al t e ra t ion in t h e

, ,

color usually dull i ng and dark e ning i t Wi t h t h e g e n e ral class

,
.

of basi c dy e s hard wat e r canno t b e e mploy e d wi t hou t sui t abl e

corr e c t ion by t h e addi t ion of ac e t ic acid Th e basic dye s form .

insolubl e pr e cipi t at e s wi t h lim e and magn e si a compounds which

will r e sul t in a la rg e loss of coloring mat t e r and also faul t y and
-

s t r e aky dy e ing by r e ason of t h e s t icky pr e cipi t at e of coloring

mat t e r b e coming sm e ar e d o n t h e mat e rial b e ing dy e d Th e .

pr e s e nc e of iron in t h e wat e r is also v e ry d e l e t e rious in using basic

dy e s Wi t h t h e class of subs t an t ive colors t h e influ e nc e of hard
.

wat e r vari e s larg e ly wi t h t h e par t icular dy e s t uff in som e cas e s ,

c ausing pr e cipi t a t ion and in o t h e rs no t As a g e n e ral rul e .

,

how e v e r i t may b e t ak e n t hat hard wat e r i s d e l e t e rious wi t h t h i s

,

class of dy e s and should b e corr e c t e d by t h e add i t ion of a sui t abl e

,

amoun t of sod a ash in ord e r t o pr e cipi t at e all t h e lim e and magn e

si a compounds which may b e in solu t ion Th e pr e s e nc e of iron .

is also b ad as i t caus e s a d iscolorat ion of t h e dy e s t uff Wi t h

, .

mordan t dy e s t h e u se (if hard wat e r if i t do e s n o t con t ain any

,

iron is consid e r e d b e n e fici al as t h e lim e pr e s e n t produc e s a b e t t e r

, ,

color lak e ; in fac t unl e ss t h e wat e r is su ffici e n t ly hard a soluble

-
, ,

s al t of lim e i s usu al ly add e d in t h e dy e ing of mos t ali z arin colors .

“ ”
In c e r t ain cas e s wh e r e a dull e d or sadd e n e d e ffe c t i s d e sir e d ,

t h e pr e s e nc e of iron may b e b e n e fici al .

In mordan t ing op e rat ions such as in t h e u s e of m e t allic sal t s

,

o n wool or silk hard wa t e r may b e us e d wi t h impun i t y provid e d

,

i t do e s n o t con t ain any iron which will r e sul t in t h e dulling of

,

t h e e v e n t ual color lak e In mordan t ing co t t on wi t h t annic acid

-
.
,

t h e u se of h ard wa t e r may b e consid e r e d as som e wha t b e n e ficial ,

i f any t h ing as i t l e ads t o a b e tt e r fixat ion of t h e t annin mordan t

,
.

In bl e aching op e rat ions on co t t on wh e r e chlorid e of l i m e or

,

ac i ds or caus t ic soda may b e e mploy e d t h e u s e of h ard wat e r is ,

no t injurious ; t houg h i t should no t b e con t amina t e d wi t h iron .

In t h e bl e aching of wool wi t h solu t i ons of sodium bisulphi t e ,

hard wat e r may al so b e e mploy e d In all op e rat ions of scouring.

or bl e aching wh e r e soap solu t ions ar e e mploy e d h ard wat e r s h ould

n o t b e us e d as t h e soap forms a highly insolubl e and s t i cky pr ec i p
,
1 06 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEMIS TR Y .

Q U IZ 8 .

1 94 . Na m e t h re e re d a ci d d y e s, a n d co m p a re t he ch ara ct e r o f t he co lo rs

the y gi ve .

1 95 . Wh a t co lo r do es Tart razi ne gi ve o n w oo l? C y a no le o n s i l k? B rilli a nt

Cro ce i ne is o f wh a t co lo r ?

1 96 . Wh at co lo rs do Er t h ro si ne y an d Iri sa m i ne gi ve o n co tt o n ? Wh a t
p e cu li a ri t yi s t o b e no t i ce d i n co nne cti o n wi th t h e se co lo rs ?
1 97 . Wha t do t he le t t e rs a ft e r t h e na me s o f d y fs re
e s t uf p re se nt ? Wha t
w o u ld b e t he di fl e re n ce b twe een Aci d Vio le t 4R a nd Aci d Vi o le t 2 R? Aci d
G re e n B a nd Aci d Gree n G ?
1 98 . Na m e so me o f t h e m o re i m p o rta nt d y f
e s t uf fa ct o ri es w ith t h e na me s

o f t he i r a g e n ci e s i n t he Uni t e d Sta t e s .

1 99 . Wh at a g e n ci e s do t h e fo llo wi g bb n a re vi a t i o ns r e p re se nt , a nd o f wh at

fo re i gn fact o ri e s a re t he y t he a g e nt s : Bad .
,
Elb .
,
Ber .
,
Ca ss ,
Me tz ,
K lp .
,

RH .
,
BS ? .

2 00 . Wh at p re ca u t i o ns s h o uld b e ta k en i n t he s t o ra g e o fd y es t u f
fs i n t he
m ill ?
201 . Ho w much a ct ua l d y e s t uff do p a ste d y es u s ua ll y co nt a i n ? Wh a t
p re ca u t i o n s s h o uld b e ta k en i n t he p re se rva t o n a n i d u se o f t he se co lo rs ?
2 02 . Wh at i s t h e m e t ho d re co m me n de d i n g e ne ra l fo r t h e d i s so lvi n g o f
d y e s t u ffs ? Sh o uld t he so li d co lo ri n gm -
a t te r be a dd e d t o t h e d ye - a t h b di re ct l y
p
Ex la i n why .

203 . Ca n all d y e s t uffs b e di sso lv e d i n b o i li n gw ate r wi th o ut in j y?ur Na m e

so me o f t h ese wh i ch ca nno t .

204 . Fo r d i fficultly so b
lu le d y es h o w m u ch w ate r wi ll b q i d f t h e re u re o r e

so lu t i o n o fo ne p a rt O f d y f
e st u f Ho w m u ch fo r re a d i ly l bl dy Ab t
so u e es o u

h o w m u ch d y e st uff ca n b e d i sso lve d i n 10 g allo n s o fw t ? a er

205 . Why is it u nsa fe to u se h a rd w a te r in t h di e l i g f d y t ff ?

s so v n o es u s

Wh a t class o fd y e s a re e s p e ci a ll y se nsi t i v e t o h ar d w t ? a er

2 06 . If h ard w ate r has to b e em pl y o ed fo r di l i g b i dy

s so v n h w as c e s, o

sh o u ld it b e co rr e ct e d ? Ho w are a c i d dy es d i sso l d i h d w t ?
ve n ar a er

207 . Ho w s h o u ld h ar d w ater b e t re a t e d fo r t h e so lu t i o n o f Wa te r B lue ,

Al k a li B lu e , a nd Aci d V i o le t ? Fo r t h e ph t h ale i n d y e s t uffs ? Fo r t h e s ub
s t an
t i ve d y es t u f
fs ?
2 08 . Wh at two ca u se s m ay le a d t o t he p re ci pi t atio n o f t he d y e st uff i n s t a nd

i ng b at h s ?
2 09 . Ho w i s y arn m o st l yh andle d in d y i ng ? Wh
e at ch ara ct e r o f vat is
em pl y o ed ? Wh at m e t als o n ly sh o uld be p re se nt i n t h e dye -
vat ?
2 1 0 . Ho w m ay t h e se nsi t i v e ne ss o f m o st d y es t o co pp er be a vo i de d , i f i t i s
ne ce ss a r yt o h a v e t h i s m e t al i n t h e v at ?
2 1 1 . De s cri b e t he g e ne ral fo rm s o f m ach i ne s em pl yo ed fo r t he d y ing
e o f
yarn . What a dvant a e s g do ma chi nes p o sse ss o ver hand dyeing ?
 REPRES E N TA TI VE AC D D I YES . 1 07

2 1 2 . In wh at manne r i s lo o se w oo l o r co t to n d y ed ? De scri b e a fo rm o f
ma chi ne fo r lo o se st o c k dy i g e n .

2 1 3 . De s cri b e t he m e t ho d e m lo ye d fo r d p y i ng
e clo th . Wh a t i s a wi nch ,

a
“
j i gg er
”
?
21 4 . Wh at a re warp s Ho w i s w p d y i ng i d t ?
ar e ca rr e o u

5
21 . Wh at i s me a nt by a co p ?
”
D i b t h p i n i pl f
e scr e e r c e o a co
p
-
d e iy g
n

ma ch i ne : May
'
o t h er fo rm s o f m t i l b id
a er a p b dy d es es co s e e i n si mi lar
m a chi ne s ?
2 1 6 . If 7 5 k il w l t o b d y d wi t h
o s o f o o are e e pe r ce nt . o fd y e st uff, ho w
m anyg m ra s o f l i g m tt w ld b q i
co o r n -
a er o u e re u re d ? If 1 00 p o u nd s a re to b e
dy d wit h t h
e e sam p nt g h w m ny
e n
e rce a e, o a o u ce s a n d g ra i n s o f dye st u fi w o u ld

b n
e y?
e ce ssa r

721 5 g . 2 0 ra m s pe r 1 00 k il o s i s h o w m an y o u nce s a nd gra i ns pe r 1 00

p nd ?
o u s

21 8 . If 10 p o u nd s o f g oo ds a re to be d y d wi t h }
e 1
pe r ce nt . o f d y e s t uff,

ho w m a n yg ra i n s o f co lo r w o uld be ne ce ssar y ? Wh t a vo lu me Of d ye so lu t i o n
co nt a i ni ng 8 o u n ce s o f co lo r pe r g a llo n w o u ld be re qu ire d (i n pi nt gi ll
s, s , a nd

no ggin ) s

92 1 pp 5 g m k in f w l
. Su o se dy d i n t t
-
i ng dy
ra ls e s O o o a re e es s us e so u t i o ns

nt i ni ng
co a g m p li t ; wh t p nt g f l w ld
1 ra er p re a e rce a e o co o r o u 1 cc . re re se nt ?
A l b t i n d wi t h
co o r o a f th t t
e l t i n w ld b q i l nt t
2 0 cc . o e es so u o o u e e u va e o ho w
m ny a n o und g in f d y t ff n
ce s a p nd f g d ?
ra s o es u o 1 00 o u s o oo s
 S ECT I O N IX .

TES TIN G TH E F A S TNES S OF CO LORS .

Ex pe ri m e n t 5 7 . F a s tn ess t o Li g h t
For t his t e s t (and t hose
.

succ e e ding ) u se five of t h e sk e ins dy e d in t h e pr e c e ding se c t ion .

Cu t off a sampl e of t h e dy e d sk e in abou t t hr e e inch e s in l e ng t h

and plac e i t in an e xposur e board arranging i t in such a man ,

n e r t h a t o n e h alf of t h e sampl e i s e xpos e d t o t h e ligh t whil e t h e

-
,

o t h e r h alf is pro t e c t e d H ang t h e e xposur e board on t h e insid e

.

of a window facing t h e sou t h in or d e r t o ob t ain as much sunligh t

as possibl e A llow t h e e xposur e t o con t inu e for o ne we ek a t t h e
.
,

e nd of which t im e e xamin e t h e sampl e for f a ding If t h e color .

shows any p e rc e p t ibl e al t e rat ion i t mus t b e consid e r e d as no t fas t

,

t o ligh t . If no fading is O bs e rv e d t h e e xposur e should b e con

,

t i nu e d for t hr ee w e e ks mor e Th e sampl e i s now e xamin e d a

.

s e cond t im e and if any f ading is appar e n t t h e sampl e i s r e mov e d

, ,

and classifi e d as mo de ra tely fa s t If no fading is appar e n t t h e

.

sampl e may b e classi fi e d as qu i te fa st t o ligh t ( 1 5 2 1 5 3 1 5 4 1 5 5 , , , ,

Th e d e gr e e s of fas t n e ss t o ligh t may also b e classi fi e d

num e rically as follows
I . No t fad e d in fo ur w e e ks xposur e ’
e .

2 . No t fad e d in o ne w e e k s e xposur e ’
.

3 . Fad e d by o ne we e k s e xposure ’
.

Expe ri m e nt 5 8 . Fa s tn ess t o Washi n g

This is t o r e pr e s e n t
.

t h e fas t n e ss of t h e color t o scouring wi t h soap Tak e 5 or 6 .

s t rands of t h e dy e d yarn t o b e t e st e d and plai t i t wi t h a similar

’

amoun t of whi t e woo l e n and whi t e co t t on s t rands so as t o mak e ,

up a small t e st sampl e abou t 4 inch e s in l e ng t h This sampl e is .

t h e n s t e e p e d in a soap solu t ion con t aining 5 grams of soap p e r

li t r e Abou t 50 cc of t h e solu t ion w i ll b e r e quir e d for e ac h t e s t
. .
,

and no t mor e t han o ne sampl e should b e sc o u r e d i n t h e sam e

’

liquor H av e t h e t e mp e rat ur e of t h e soap solu t ion at 1 40 F

.
°
.
,

1 08
 I IO D YE N G AN D I TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

Plai t a fe w s t rands of t h e dy e d yarn wi t h s t rands of whi t e wool

and co tt on yarns in t he usual mann e r and s t e e p for 1 hour in ,

abou t 5 0 cc of a solu t ion con t aining 1 00 cc of lac t ic acid ( 2 2 p e r

. .

c e n t ) pe r li t r e a t t he ordinary t e mp e ra t ur e Th e n squ e e ze wash

. .
,

and dry ( 1 7 2 1 7 3 1 7 4 1 7 5
, , No t e if t h e color has bl e d i n t o
, ,

e i t h e r of t h e whi t e yarns or i f t h e color has su ffe r e d any chang e

from t h e original .

Expe ri m n te 6 2 F as t n e ss.t o C ar b o n i zi ng —
Th e carbon iz ing .

proc e ss i s t h e t r e a t m e n t of wool e n mat e rial wi t h acid and t h e n

drying for t he purpo se of d e composing any v e ge t able mat t e r
pre s e n t It is e spe cially us e d in conne c t i on wi t h shoddy t hough
.
,

i t i s also at t im e s e mploy e d O n woole n pi e c e goods t o r e mov e -

sp e cks of v e g e t able ma t t e r in t h e finish e d clo t h Tak e a small .

sampl e of t h e dy e d wool e n sk e in and s t e e p i t for 1 5 minu t e s in a

solu t ion of s ulphuric acid a t 4 Tw and at a t e mp e ra t ur e of °
.

1 40
°
F Squ e e ze and dry wi t hou t washing t h e n wash w e ll and
.
, ,

dry again ( 1 7 7 , 1 7 8 1 7 9 1 8 0 , No t e if t h e color has und e r

, ,

gon e any al t e ra t ion by t his t r e at m e n t This t e st is only appl i cabl e .

t o dye d wool e n ma t e rials .

Expe ri m e n t 6 3 Fas tn e ss t o Cro ss Dy e i n g

. B y cross dy e ing-
.
-

i s m e an t t h e dy e ing of pi e c e s con t aining whi t e wool wove n wi t h

dye d co t t on yarn ; t h e wool b e ing dy e d in a boiling acid bat h t he ,

dy e d co t t on must no t b e chang e d by t he proc e ss Mak e a small .

plai t e d sample of s t rands of t h e dy e d co t t on yarn wi t h s t rands of

whi t e wool e n yarn and boil t h e sampl e so pr e par e d for 1 5 minu t e s
in abou t 50 cc of a solu t ion con t aining 1 cc of conc e n t rat e d sul
. .

h i acid and 2 grams of gla u b e r s alt p e r li t r e ; wash w e ll and

p u r c ,

dry ( 1 8 2 1 83 1 84 1 85
, , , N o t e if t h e color has und e rgon e
,

any al t e ra t ion or if i t has bl e d in t o t h e whi t e yarn This t e s t is .

appli e d only t o co t t on dy e ings .

Expe ri m e n t 64 Fastn e ss t o St o vi n g
. Som e t ime s i t is n e c e s.

sary t o b l e ach wool e n pi e c e s con t aining whi t e and color e d yarns

wov e n t oge t h e r in orde r t o cl e ar up t h e whi t e yarns Th i s .

ble aching is don e wi t h sulphur dioxid e (fum e s from burning

s ul phur ) as a rul e and t he proc e ss is kho wn as s t oving
,
“
Tak e .

a small sample of t h e dy e d wool e n yarn mois t e n wi t h wat e r and , ,

 TES TI N G TH E F AS TN ESS OF CO LO RS . III

h ang i t for 6 hours in a clos e d compar t m e n t con t aining sulphur

o u s acid gas No t e i f t h e color has und e rgon e any al t e ra t io n
.

( 1 8, 7 1 8 8 ,
1 8 9 1 9 0 , T his t e s t i s
, appli e d only t o dy e d
wool e n ma t e ri als .

Expe ri m e nt 6 5 Fas tn es s t o Chlo ri n g

. Co t t on pi e c e s con .

t aining whi t e and dy e d yarns wov e n t og e t h e r som e t im e s r e quir e

t h e bl e aching of t h e whi t e af t e r b e ing wov e n Tow e lling wi t h .

color e d bord e rs is a good e xampl e of t his class of mat e ri al Th e .

dy e d colors mus t t h e r e fore s t and a t r e at m e n t wi t h chlorid e of

'

“ ”
lim e solu t ion and t his i s known as Chlo ri ng
,
Tak e a sampl e .

of t h e dy e d co tt on sk e in and s t e e p for o ne half hour in a cold -

s olu t ion of Chlorid e of lim e a t 5 Tw rins e o ff and pass t hrough

°
.
,

wa t e r sl i gh t ly acidulat e d wi t h sulphuric acid F inally wash w e ll .

and dry ( 1 9 2 1 9 3 1 9 4 1 9 5 , , N o t e if t his t r e a t m e n t has

, ,

c ause d any change in t h e colo r .

Ex pe ri m e n t 66 Fa s tn e s s t o Cra cki ng o r Ru b b ing

. B y t his is .

m e an t t hat t h e dy e d ma t e ri al should no t s t ai n whi t e clo t h wh e n

rubb e d agains t i t We ll dy e d mat e ri al S hould s e ldom S how t hi s
.
-

d e fe c t al t hough plush or pil e fabrics som e t im e s rub consid e rably

, .

If t h e washing of t h e ma t e ri al aft e r dy e ing has n o t b e e n s u fli c i e nt ly

t horough so as t o r e mov e all p ar t icl e s of u n fix e d dy e s t uff t h e
, ,

color aft e rwards i s liabl e t o rub This fas t n e ss i s applicabl e t o .

'

all class e s of dy e ing Carry o u t t h e t e s t by rubbing a dry sampl e

.

of t h e dy e d yarn vigorously on a pi e c e of whi t e c alico and no t ing

i f i t caus e s any smu t on t h e whi t e clo t h ( 1 9 7 1 9 8 1 9 9 2 0 0 , , , ,

Th e fore going t e s t s for fas t n e ss of dy e d colors r e pr e s e n t t h e

.

principal r e quire m e n t s t o b e ordinarily me t wi t h A car e ful .

s t udy of t h e r e sult s of t h e s e t e s t s will s e rv e t o show t ha t fast n e ss

t o any t e s t as w e ll as t h e d e gre e of t ha t fas t n e ss is no t ne c e s
, ,

s a r i ly d e t e rmin e d by t h e g e n e ral class t o which a dy e s t u ff b e longs ,

b u t is ra t h e r a par t icular prop e r t y of t h e individual dy e s t u ff .

F ur t h e rmor e i t i s t o b e born e in mind t hat t he r e qui r e m e n t s for

,
“

fas t n e ss of colors are large ly t o b e d e t e rmin e d by t h e par t i cular

u s e t o which t h e dy e d ma t e rial is t o b e p u t and an in t e llig e n t ,

d i scriminat ion in t h e s e l e c t ion of dy e s t o b e us e d shoul d b e mad e

wi t h t his in vi e w A more e x t e nsi ve disc ussion of t he fas t n e ss of
.
1 12 I
D YE N G AN D TEXTILE CHEMIS TR Y .

dy e d colors on various mat e rials will b e t ake n up in a succ ee d

ing s e c t ion aft e r t he vario us m e t hods of dye ing hav e b ee n more
,

t horoughly s t udi e d .

Ta b u la ti o n
f f
o Re s u lts o Tes ts .

Mak e r e cords of t he r e sul t s of t h e various t e s t s in t he following

mann e r e mploying fiv e di ffe re n t sampl e s for t h e r e sp e c t iv e t e s t s
,

such as have b e e n dy e d in t h e pr e vious s e c t ion The t e s t e d .

’
sampl e s should b e pr e s e rv e d in t h e s t ud e n t s sampl e book for
fu t ure r e fe re nc e .

F A S TNESS TO LIG HT .

D y e s t u ff Fi b re . F as t n es s .

O ne F o ur

we e k we e k s .

F A S TNESS TO W AS HING .

St a i ns

D y e s t uff . Fi b re .
1 14 D YE N G AN D I TEX TILE CHEMIS TR Y .

F A S TNESS TO C A R B O NIZ ING .

D y e s t uff . Al t e ra t i o n i n co lo r .

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

F A S TNESS TO CR O SS — DY EIN G .

D y es t u ff . Al t e ra t i o n i n co lo r . Ble e d i ng i nt o w h i t e .

F A S TNESS TO S T O VING .

D y est uf
f . Al t e ra t i o n i n co lo r .
 TES TI N G TH E F AS TN ESS OF CO LO RS .
5

F ASTN ESS .
TO CH LO R ING .

D y e s t u ff . Al t e ra t i o n i n co lo r .

F A S TNESS TO CR O CK IN G .

D y e st u f
f . Fi b re . Co lo r ru b bi ng o n wh it e .

S A M P LES .

1 5 2 -
1 56 . Te st s fo r fast ne ss t o li h t g .

1 57 —1 61 . Te st s fo r fa s t ne ss to w a shi n g .

1 62— 1 66 . Te s t s fo r fa st ne ss t o fulli n g .

1 67— 1 7 1 . Te st s fo r fas t ne ss t o wt a er .

1 7 2 —1 6
7 . Te st s fo r fa s t ne s s to p pi ti n
e rs ra o .

1 77
—
1 81 . Te s t s fo r fa st ne ss t o b ii g
ca r o n z n .

1 82— 1 86 . Te st s fo r fa s t ne ss t o d y i ng
cro s s - e .

1 87— 1 9 1 . Te st s fo r fast ne ss to t i g
s o v n .

1 9 2 —
1 96 . Te st s fo r fast ne ss t o Ch lo ri ng .

1 97
—2
0 1 . Te st s fo r fa st ne ss to k i ng
cro c .

Q U IZ 9 .

220. De scri b e t he met ho d e m pl y d f

o e o r t h e t es t i n g o f t he fa s t ne ss o fd y ed

co lo r s t o li h t g . Wh at s t a nd ard s o f fa st ne s s a re a do pt d ? e

22 1 . Why sh o u ld a s o u t h e rn e x p o s u re be gi n wh n t
ve e e st i n g sa m pl es fo r
fa st ne ss t o li h t ? g Wh y s h o uld the sa m pl es n t b
o p e ex o se d to t he o u t si de

a t m Os ph e r e ?
I16 D YE N G AN D I TEXTILE CHEMIS TR Y .

222 . Is t he re a ny d y es t uf
fo for g nia c na t ure a b so y f t t li gh t ? C n
lu t e l as o a

y o u ex pl ain in a ny m a nne r why li gh t ca use s t he f di ng f

a l ? W ldo co o rs o u

co lo rs fa de u nde r g
re d li h t , a nd wh y ?

223 . Wh at cla sse s o f g oo ds q ui re fa st ness t o li gh t mo re t h an o t h e rs ?

re

Wo uld fan c y ilk s s fo r la di e s

’
wear requ i re e spe ci al fa st ne ss to li ght and why ? ,

2 24 . Ho w w o uld yo u t e st a d y e d co lo r in o rd e r to o bt ai n i t s fa st ne s s t o
wa shi n g o r s co u ri n g ? Wh at i s t he p p u r o se o ft wi sti n g whi t w e oo l a nd co tt o n
wi t h t h e sa m pl e ?
225 . Wh at i s the s t re n gt h o f the so a p so lu t i o n em pl yo ed fo r t h e s co u ri n g
t e st , a nd a t wh at tem p e ra t ure i s t h e t e st co nd u ct e d ?
226 . Wh at y i ng q i p i l f tn t w hi g ? A
ch a ra ct e r o fd e s re u re e s ec a as e ss o as n re

dy i g n i lk
e n s o q i d t b p t i l ly f t t w hi g ?
s re u re o e ar cu a r as o as n

7
22 Wh y m t dy i ng n l
. w l l
us tt n be yf tt
s o o o se oo o r o o se co o e ver as o s co u r

i ng ? E p l i n wh y dy i gx a w i ng y n h ld b f t t e n s o n i g eav ar s s o u e as o sco u r n .

8 Wh t d f t i n t h d y i ng p
22 . a e ec s m yl d t p f t et w h e ro cess a ea o o o r a s ne s s o as

i ng f l o whi h w ld t h wi b f t ?
co o rs c o u o er se e as

22
9 Wh t i m nt by f lli g m illi g ? E pl i n b i fly h w t h p
. a s ea u n o r n x a r e o e ro ce ss

is ca rr ei d t Why h f lli ng m
o u . t i n n th as l t ha u i ng a o re se v e re a c o o e co o r n sco ur

3 2 Gi 0 .t h m th d fve t t i g t h f tn
e f dy d
e o l t f lli ng
or es n e as e ss o a e co o r o u .

3 2 A 1 . tt n nd i lk m t i l f ll d ?
re co o E pl i n why w l m t i l
a s a er a s u e x a o o en a er a s

f lt t g t h
e o i n f lli ng
e er u .

3 2 Wh t l
2 . fw l n m t i l
a c a s se s o lly f ll d ? Wh y h l d oo e a e r a s a re u su a u e s o u

dy i g n l
e n s o w l b f t t f lli g
o o se l ?
oo e as o u n ,
as a ru e

3 3 I it
2 . ft n ns y t h t dy ing n w t d y n h ld b p
O e e ce ssa r a e s o o rs e ar s s o u e ar

t i l ly f t t
cu a r f lli ng ?
as Why h ld dy i ng n w l n y
o u b f t t s o u e s o oo e a rn s e as o

f lli g ?
u n

3 4 In d y i ng p i
2 . g d f w l n m t i l i it
e e ce - o o y t l t dy s o oo e a er a s ne ce ssa r o se e c e

t ff w h i h
s u s f t t f lli g ? Wh t i m
c a re as t by lo l d y i g d y t ff
u n d a s ean a e ve -
e n es u ,
an

w h y i t hi s l p f d f pi g d ?
s c a ss re e rr e o r e ce - oo s

352 U d . wh t ndi t i m y i t b n
n er a y t dy tt y n w it h
co o ns a e e ce ssa r o e co o n ar s

l f t t f lli g ? A th S l t i n b i d t h
c o o rs as o u n nt i i gre o p d er o u o s es es o se co a n n so a an

a lk lia m pl y d f f lli ng ?
e ve r e o e o r u

3 6 Wh t d
2 . f tn a t w t p nt ? H w i t h t t
o es as e ss i d t?
o a e r re re se o s e es ca rr e o u

T wh t m t i l i t h i
o a p i ll y ppli d ?
a er a s s s es ec a a e

372 If . l i f t t
a co o r i ng d it n s i ly i gni fy t h t i t i
as o l
sco u r ,
o es e ce s sa r s a s a so

f t t w t ? D
as o a er f t t f lli ng l im ply f t n
o es t
as ne ss ri ng ? o u a so as e ss o s co u

3 8 Wh t l
2 . ff b i
a q i l
c a sse s o h i ng f t n t p a pi t i ?
r cs re u re co o rs av as e ss o e rs ra o n

Wh t i t h h mi l t i
a s e c fp e pi t i n ? ca ac o n o e rs ra o

392 D .i b t h m t h d f t t i ng
e s cr e l f it f tn
e et p opi t i o es a co o r o r s as e ss o e rs ra o n .

Wh t k i nd f i d i l t i
a o i d nd wh y i i t
ac d in th p
s ac pi t i t t ?
c ac ,
a s u se e e rs ra o n es

4 2 Wh t i m t by
0 . a b ni ing s fppli d t t xt il ? B i fly t
s ean
“
ca r o z
”
a a e o e es r e o u

li n t h m t h d f
e e eb ni i ng
o o ca r o z .
 S ECT I O N X .

APP LICATION OF B A S IC D YES To WOOL AN D SIL K .

Expe ri m e n t 6 7 . Ge n e ral Me t h o d
Applyi n g B asi c Dy e s t o o f
Wo o l B asic colors a re usu al ly dy e d on wool in n e u t r al or
.
-

sligh t ly acid b at hs Dy e a sk e in of wool e n yarn in a ba t h con

.

t aining 3 0 0 cc of wa t e r 2 p e r c e n t of ac e t ic acid 1 0 p e r c e n t
.
,
.
,
.

of glaub e r s alt and 1 p e r c e n t of Me t hyl e n e B lu e ; e n t e r a t 1 00 F

,
.
°
.
,

gradually rais e t o 1 80 F and dy e at t hat t e mp e rat ur e for o ne

°

h alf hour Dy e ano t h e r sk e in of wool e n y arn in a similar

b at h con t aining 1 0 p e r c e n t of gla ub e rs alt and 1 p e r c e n t of
. .

M e t hyl e n e B lu e in t h e sam e mann e r and no t e t ha t t h e dy e s t uff ,

i s absorb e d mor e rapidly The func t ion of t h e acid is t o

r e t ard t h e dy e ing and so assis t in t h e e v e n dis t ribu t ion and
,

t horough p e n e t ra t ion of t h e color If t h e b at h in t h e firs t case .

do e s no t e xhaus t comple t e ly lift t h e sk e in and add 4 pe r c e n t of

, .

borax and con t inu e dy e ing for 1 5 minu t e s Th e borax is a mild

,
.

alkali and is add e d for t h e purpos e of n e u t rali z ing t h e acid in t h e

,

bat h and so p e rmi t t ing t h e compl e t e e xhaust ion of t h e dy e s t u ff .

Ac e t ic acid i s b e t t e r t o u s e in dy e ing b asic colors t han sulphuric

acid as t h e form e r i s volat il e and as t h e t e mp e ra t ur e of t h e
, ,

d y e ba t h ris e s t h e acidi t y b e com e s l e ss e n e d and cons e qu e n t ly

-

t h e e xhaus t ion is b e t t e r .

Expe ri m e nt 6 8 Sh o wi n g t h e Efi e c t o f Hard Wa t e r o n B as i c
.

Dy e s . Dy e a sk e in of wool e n yarn in a b at h con t aini ng 300 cc .

of wat e r and 1 pe r c e n t of M ag e n t a ; e n t e r a t 1 0 0 F gradually

.
°
.
,

bring t o 1 80 F and d ye a t t hat t e mp e rat ur e for o ne half hour

° -

At t h e sam e t im e d y e a s e cond sk e in in a similar b at h t o

which how e v e r t h e r e is add e d 5 cc of lim e wat e r
, , Carry .

o u t t h e dy e ing in t h e sam e mann e r and no t e any di f fe r e nc e in t h e ,

app e aranc e of t h e t wo sk e ins aft e r dy e ing L im e s al t s in wa te r .

1 1 8
 PPL I CA TI O N
A OF B AS I C D Y ES TO WOOL AN D S ILK . 1 19

c aus e a pr e cipi t at ion of b asic dy e s in t he b at h and h e nc e in t e r ,

f e re wi t h t h e ir dy e ing prop e r t i e s .

Expe ri m e n t 6 9 Sh o w in g t h e Gr e a t e r Co lo ri n g Po w e r o f B a si c
.

Dy e s o v e r Aci d Dy e s Dy e a sk e in of wool e n yarn in a b a t h con

.

t aining 3 00 cc of wa t e r 1 0 p e r c e n t of gla u b e r s alt 4 p e r c e n t of

.
,
.
,
.

sulphuric acid and 2 pe r c e n t of Acid M ag e n t a ; e n t e r a t 1 40 F

, .
°
.
,

gradually rais e t o t h e boil and d y e a t t hat t e mp e rat ur e for o ne

h alf hour Dye a s e cond sk e in in a b a t h con t aining 3 0 0 cc .

of wat e r 1 0 pe r c e n t of gla u b e r s al t and 2 pe r c e n t of M ag e n t a ;

, .
, .

d y e for t h e sam e l e ng t h of t im e and und e r S imilar condi t ions as

abov e Aft e r dy e ing wash and dry t h e t wo sk e ins No t e ,
.

t h e d e p t h of color on e ach and i t will b e found t ha t t h e sk e in dy e d

,

wi t h t h e acid color is consid e rably ligh t e r t han t h e o ne dy e d w i t h

t h e basic color .

Ex pe ri m e n t 7 0 Use o f a Ne u t r al B a t h
. M os t b asic dy e s .

will dy e fairly w e ll on wool from n e u t r al b at hs t hough t h e wa t e r ,

us e d should b e soft or if hard should b e corr e c t e d by t h e

, , ,

addi t io n of ac e t ic acid For e ach d e gr e e of h ardn e ss of t h e

.

wa t e r abou t o z of ac e t ic acid should b e add e d pe r 1 0 0

.

gallons of wa t e r O r p e rhaps a mor e conv e ni e n t m e t hod i s

.

t o add ac e t ic acid t o t h e wa t e r of t h e d y e b at h un t il i t shows a -

fain t acid r e ac t ion wi t h li t mus pap e r (t urning blu e li t mus pap e r

re d ). Th e color i s mor e a p t t o b e un e v e n from n e u t ral ba t hs
t h an from t hos e con t aining acid Dye a sk e in of wool e n yarn in .

a b at h con t aining 3 00 CC O f wat e r 1 0 p e r c e n t of glaub e r s alt.

,
.
,

and 1 p e r c e n t of R hodamin e ; e n t e r at 1 0 0 F gradually bring

.
°

t o 1 80 F
°
and con t inu e at t hat t e mp e rat ur e for o ne half hour
.
,
-
.

Wash and dry

Ex pe ri m e n t 7 1 Dy e i n g Si lk wi t h B a s i c Co l o r s
. Dy e a t e s t .

sk e in of silk in a bat h con t aining 1 50 cc of wat e r 2 5 cc of .

,
.

boil e d o ff liquor and 2 pe r c e n t of M ag e n t a ; e n t e r t h e sk e i n

-
,
.
‘

at 1 2 0 F
°
and gradually bring t o 1 80 F and d y e a t t ha t t e m
.
,
°
.
,

t u re for o ne half hour t h e n wash w e ll and dry Silk

p e r a -
, ,

lik e wool has a dir e c t affi ni t y for t h e b asic colors

,
.

Ex pe ri m e nt 7 2 Dy ei ng Si lk i n a Ne u tr al So a p B a t h
. Pr e .

par e a b at h con t aining 1 50 cc of wat e r 5 pe r c e n t of soap (whic h .

,
.
i

1 20 I
D YE N G AN D TEXTILE CH EMIS TR Y .

S hould b e a n e u t ral oli ve oil soap ) ,

Work of . h
t e t e s t sk e in
—

silk in t his b at h for a shor t t im e a t 1 40 F t h e n add 2 pe r c e n t °

. .

of Me t hyl e n e B lu e solu t ion in s e v e ral port ions a t t h e sam e t im e ,

raising t h e t e mp e ra t ure of t h e ba t h t o 1 80 F Con t inu e a t t his °

.

t e mp e rat ur e for 1 5 minu t e s t h e n add su ffi ci e n t ac e t ic acid t o

,

sligh t ly acidulat e t h e bat h and con t inu e dye ing for 1 5 minu t e s
,

longe r Th e n wash w e ll and brigh t e n wi t h ac e t ic acid in t h e

.

mann e r giv e n in Exp 5 1 .Dye a s e cond sampl e of silk

in t h e sam e mann e r wi t h 2 pe r c e n t O f R hodamin e .

Ex p e ri m e n t 7 3 Aft e r Tr e a tm e n t o f B a s i c Dy e s o n Si lk wi t h
.
-

Tan n i n Dye a t e s t sk e in of silk wi t h 2 p e r c e n t of M e t hyl

.
-
.

Viol e t as d e scrib e d in E xp 7 2 ; wash w e ll (2 1 2 ) and pass .

int o a fre sh ba t h con t aining 1 00 cc of wa t e r and 1 gram of .

t annic acid ; work for 2 0 minu t e s a t 1 80 F t h e n sin k und e r t h e

°

liquor and l e av e for o ne half hour wi t hou t fur t h e r h e a t ing

-
.

Squ e e z e o u t t h e e xc e ss of liquor and work in a fr e sh bat h con

t aining 1 00 cc of wa t e r and
. gram t ar t ar e m e t ic at a t e mp e ra
t ur e of 1 40 F for 2 0 minu t e s
°
. Wash w e ll and brigh t e n wi t h .

ac e t ic acid as usual Dy e a s e cond sk e in of silk in t h e s am e

mann e r wi t h 2 p e r c e n t of M alachi t e G r e e n
.

1 . Th e Us e o f B as i c Dy e s o n basic dy e s Wo o l an d Silk . Th e
a r e v e ry larg e ly e mploy e d on silk for t h e silk fibr e has a s t rong ,

a ffini t y for t h e s e coloring matt e rs and t h e m e t hods of t h e ir appli

-
,

cat ion are simpl e Fur t h e rmor e t h e colors ob t ain e d wi t h t he

.
,

basic dy e s are e sp e cially charac t e ri ze d by d e p t h and brilliancy ,

fac t ors which are v e ry import an t in dy e ing si lk O n accoun t of .

t h e s t rong a ffi ni t y of b asic colors for silk i t i s no t al ways wis e t o ,

add all of t h e r e quir e d dy e s t u ff at onc e t o t h e b at h b ut in s e ve ral ,

port ions as t h e dy e ing proc e e ds Esp e cial car e must b e t ak e n in .

t h e solu t ion of t h e b asic dy e s as if boiling wa t e r i s e mploy e d for

,

t his purpos e t h e r e is liabili t y of t arry ma tt e rs b e ing form e d by a .

par t ial d e composi t ion of t h e dy e st u ff It is b e st t o u se warm .

wat e r acid i fi e d wi t h ac e t ic acid In som e cas e s t h e dy e s are mor e

.

r e ad i ly dissolve d if a li tt l e m e t hylat e d alcohol is add e d Ac e t in .

,
1 22 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CH EMIS TR Y ,
.

S A MP LES .

wing ppli ti n f b i dy n w l
Sh o a ca o o as c e o oo .

Dy d w i t h gl b
e lt i n b t h au e rsa a .

M g nt dy d w i th ft w t
a e a e so a er .

M g t dy d w i t h h d w t
a en a e ar a er .

Dy i g w i t h p
e n t A i d M g nt 2 e r ce n . c a e a .

Dy i ng w i t h p
e nt M g t (b i ) 2 e r ce . a en a as c .

Rh d m i o dy d i a t l b th
ne e n ne u ra a .

Sh w i g ppli t i n f b i dy t
o n a i lk ca o o as c e o s .

Dy i ng i lk i
e t l p b th
s n a ne u ra so a a .

Rh d m i o n i lk a ne o s .

M t hyl V i l t b f t t m t wi t h t ni n
e o e e o re re a en an .

M t hyl V i l t ft t t m nt w i t h t nni
e o e a er rea e a n .

M l hit G n
a ac i lk e re e o n s .

Q U IZ IO .

257 . In wh at ch ara ct e r o f dy b t h b e- a a re a si c d y e s u su all y ppli d t w l ?

a e o oo

Ho w do e s t h e a ppli ca t i o n o as c f b i dy difi es er fro m t h a t f oi d dy ?

ac es

258 At w h a t t e m pe ra t u re s a re
. b i l a s c co o rs g e ne ra ll y d y d ? E pl i n t h
e x a e

r e a so n fo r t hi s .

259 Wh e n a ci d i s a d de d t o t he dye b at h i n dye i ng b a si c co lo rs w hat i s i t s

.
-
,

funct i o n ? Wh a t a ci d i s b e st t o e m plo y a nd why ? ,

2 60 Why i s b o rax a t t i m e s a d de d i n dye i ng b a si c co lo rs ? B o ra x h a s

.

w h a t che m i ca l ch a ra ct e r ? Wh a t i s b o ra x ?
261 Wh at i s m e a nt by h ard wa t e r ? Wh at a ct io n do e s h ard wa t e r ha ve
“ ”

o n b a sic co lo rs ?
2 62 . Of a ci d a nd b a si c d y e s, whi ch h ave t he g
rea t e r co lo ri n g pw o er ?

Co m p a re Aci d Ma e nt a g a nd M a ge nt a fo r i nt e n s i t y o f co lo ri n gp w o er .

2 63 . Ho w m ay h ard w ater be co rre ct e d fo r u se in dy i g b

e n a s i c co lo rs ?
Wha t i s m e a nt by a
“
de g ree
”
o f h ardne ss ?
2 64 . Ho w m u ch a ce t i c a ci d pe r 1 00 g a llo ns O f w a te r y t dd t
is ne ce ssa r o a o

c o rre ct e a ch de g re e o f h a rd ne ss ? If t h e de gree s o f h dn ar f th w t e ss o e a e r a re

no t kn w o n, ho w co uld yo u t e ll h o w mu ch a ce t i c a c id t dd t t h w t ?
o a o e a er

2 65 . Wh at co lo r do e s R h o dam i ne gi ve o n w oo l, and h w i i t d y d ?
o Wh t s e a

p e culi a ri t yi s t o b e no t i ce d wi t h re s p e ct t o t hi s co lo r ?
2 66 . Wh at i s t he g e n e ra l m e t h o d fo r d y ing ilk wi th b i l ? Wh
e S a s c co o rs at

is b o i le d O ff
-
li qu o r ? Wh at i s i t s fu nct i o n i n t h dy b t h ? Wh t b t i t t
e e- a a su s u es

m ay b e em pl y o ed in i t s pl a ce ?
2 67 . G i v e t h e m e t h o d fo r d y i g ilk
e n s in a n e u t ral so a
. pb ath . Wh a t k ind
o f so a p sh o u ld be u se d ? Why is a ce t i c a ci d a dde d at t he e nd o f t he dy ing
e

o p e ra t i o n ?
 A PPL I CA TI O N OF B AS I C D YES TO WO OL AN D S ILK . 1 23

2 68 . Wh a t i s m e a nt by b i ght
“
r e ni n g t he si l k a ft e r d y i ng
e ,
a nd h o w i s t hi s
d o ne ?
2 69 . Ho w m ay b a si c y d e s o n si l kb e a ft e r -t re a t e d ? G i ve t he d e t a i ls o f t he
p ro ce ss . Wh at i s t he p p u r o se o f t he aft e r - t re a t me nt ?
2 70 . Are b a si c d y e s at t he p re se nt t i me lar g lye em pl y o ed o n w o o l a nd Sil k
Wh at a re p
t he s e ci al ch a ra ct e ri st i cs o f t h e co lo rs o bt a i ne d by t h e u se o f b as i c

d y es ?
2 71 . Wh at p re ca u t i o ns sh o uld b e ta k en to o bt ai n le ve l sh a de s o n Sil k wi th
t he b a si c d y es ? Why are t he y li bl a e t o d ye p u
'

u ne v e nly ?
2 72 . Wh at p re ca u t i o ns sh o u ld b e ta k en i n d i sso lvi n gb a si c d y es ? Sho ul d
b o i li n gw ate r be u se d , a nd w hy ?
2 73 . Wh y is ace t i c a ci d a d d e d t o t he wt a er i n di sso lv i n gb a si c d y es ? If
t he d y e s a re b ut sli h t l g y so b
lu le i n w at e r wh t a so lv e nt s h o uld be u se d ?
2 74 . Wha t y ? Wh t i
i s m e a nt by
tin
“
nd m e t h la t e d
f s pi i t
r s
”
a s
“
a ce ,
”
a o

wh t a i i t in
u se n t i n wi t h b i dy
s ?
co n ec o as c es

7 5 Wh y
2 .b i dy n t m h mpl y d i n w l dy i ng t p nt ?
a re as c es o uc e o e oo e a re se

H w m y b i dy b
o a n t d i nt
as c id d y ? M nti n
es m
e co m pl
ve r e o ac es e o so e e xa es .

7 6 Why
2 b i l li bl t m p n n n w l nd h w m y
. a re a s c c o o rs a e o co e u u e ve o oo ,
a o a

t hi b ps nt d ?
e D b i d y gi
re v e eg d h ti n ? o as c es ve oo ex au s o

7 7 Wh y
2 .m t b i dy t dy d t t h b il ?
a re o sWhy i l m m
as c e s no e a e o s a u so e

t im dd d t t h d y b t h ?
es a e o e e- a

78 H w m y
2 . l b i gh t p i k l b b t i n d n w l ? Wh y i t h
o a a c e ar r n co o r e o a e o o o s e

d y d m t i l ft w d t
e a er a d lph
a d ernd w h t ff t h
ar t hi
s s o ve th -
o r su u re ,
a a e ec as s o n e

fast ne ss o f t he co lo r ?

2 79 . In wh at cla s s o f s il k d y i ng e a re t he b as i c co lo rs e s e ci all p y se rvi ce a bl e,

a nd wh y ? Ho w m ay g re a t e r fa st ne s s t o w ashi n gb e o bt a i ne d ?
2 80 . What d i sadv a nta g es do b a si c d ye s , ,
a s a class , h ave i n w oo l d y i g?
e n

Wh a t i s me ant by dye s po t s ; what ca u se s t he m ,

a nd h o w may t h e yb p v e re e nt e d
 S ECT I ON X I .

B A S IC D YES ON C O TTO N .

Expe ri m e n t 7 4 . Me t h o d o f Dy e i n g
Ge n e r al As co tt on do e s .

no t poss e ss acidic prop e r t i e s i t do e s no t combin e dir e c t ly wi t h

,

basic dy e s b u t r e quir e s an acid subs t anc e ( mordan t ) t o b e add e d

,

t o t h e fibr e in ord e r for t h e dy e ing t o t ak e plac e Co tt on r e adily .

absorb s t annic acid from solu t ion and as t his acid forms good ,

color lak e s wi t h t h e b asic dy e s i t is a v e ry sui t abl e mordan t fo r

-
,

co tt on in t his conn e c t ion To illust rat e t his r e ac t ion p roc e e d

.
,

as follows : St e e p a sk e in of co tt on yarn in a bat h con t ainin g

cc of wa r and 2 pe r c e n t O f annic acid e n t e r at 1 2 0 F
°
3 00 . t e t ; .

rais e t o 1 9 0 F t h e n allow t h e sk e in t o r e main imm e rs e d in t he

°

b at h wi t hou t fur t h e r h e at ing as i t i s found t hat t h e maximum

,

amoun t of t annic acid is absorb e d from a cooling ba t h No w .

squ e e z e t h e sk e in and t og e t h e r wi t h an unmordan t e d sk e in

of co t t on yarn pass in t o a d y e bat h con t aining 3 00 cc of wa t e r-
.

and 1 p e r c e n t of M e t hyl e n e B lu e ; e n t e r a t 1 00 F gradually

.
°
.

raise t o 1 9 0 F and dy e a t t hat t e mp e rat ur e for o ne h al f hour ;

°
.
-

wash w e ll and dry It will b e found t hat t h e mordan t e d sk e in

.

( 2 1 6 ) has b e com e dy e d wh e r e as t h e o t
,
h e r sk e in (2 1 7 ) has only

b e com e sligh t ly t in t e d As t annic acid i s liabl e t o su ffe r d e c o m

.

posi t ion a t t h e boil giving rise t o brown coloring mat t e rs and

,
-

r e sinous produc t s i t i s no t r e comm e nd e d t o boil t h e mordan t ing

,

b at h as t h e shad e e v e n t u al ly ob t ain e d will prob ably b e dull e d

,
.

Th e t annin by t his m e t hod of t r e a t m e n t i s n o t h e ld in an i n

,
solubl e
,

s t at e in t h e co t t on so t hat wh e n t h e goods are plac e d in t h e dy e

,

bat h som e of t h e t annic acid passe s again in t o solu t ion in t h e

d y e liquor causing som e of t h e dy e st u ff t o b e pr e cipi t at e d and
,

also c ausing a loss of color t o t h e fibr e He nc e i t i s cus t omary .

t o fix t h e t a nnic acid in an insolubl e co ndi t i on on t h e fibr e b e for e

passing in t o t h e d y e b at h as w i ll b e d e scrib e d in a succ e e ding
-
,

1 24
1 26 D YE N G AN D I TEXTILE CHEMIS TR Y .

Expe r i m e n t 7 6 . Fi xi n g Ta nn in wi t h Co ppe r a s . Copp e ras is

iron sulphat e and as i t occurs in t h e form of gr e e n crys t al s i t
, ,

Sal t s of iron combin e wi t h fanni c

“ ”
i s known as gr e e n vi t riol .

acid t o give black t annat e of iron h e nc e t annin fixe d on co t t on ,

wi t h copp e ras or o t h e r iron sal t s giv e s t he fi bre a gray t o bl ack

color which of cours e a ffe c t s t h e shad e e v e n t ually dy e d on t h e
, , ,

mordan t . Mordan t a sk e in of co tt on yarn in t h e mann e r d e

scrib e d above wi t h 2 p e r c e n t of t annin squ e ez e and s t e e p for
.
, ,

1 5 minu t e s in a cold ba t h con t aining 3 00 cc of wa t e r 5 p e r c e n t .

, .

of copp e ras and 5 pe r c e n t of whi t ing Th e lat t e r is c al cium

. .

c arbonat e or ch alk and is add e d in ord e r t o k ee p t h e b at h n e u t ral

, ,

for wh e n t h e t annic acid combin e s wi t h t he iron o f t h e copp e ras

t h e r e i s lib e rat e d som e sulphuric acid and as t anna t e of iron i s ,

solubl e in s ul phuric acid i t will b e r e dissolv e d Th e ch alk in t he

,
.

b at h combin e s wi t h t h e sulphuric acid as fas t as form e d and ,

t hus k e e ps t h e ba t h n e u t r al so t hat t h e iron i s abl e t o combin e

,

fully wi t h t h e t annic acid Wash t he mord an t e d sk e in which

.
,

will now h av e a gray or slat e color and pr e s e rv e a sampl e for ,

comp ari son t h e n d ye t h e r e s t of t h e sk e in in a b a t h con

t aining 3 00 cc of wa t e r 1 p e r c e n t of Me t hyl e n e B lu e and 2 p e r

.
,
.

c e n t of ac e t ic acid in t h e usual manne r

. Wash and dry .

In t h e sam e b at h wi t h t his sk e in also d ye a sk e in of co tt on yarn

which h as b e e n mordan t e d in t h e usual mann e r wi t h t annin and
fix e d wi t h t art ar e m e t ic No t ic e t h e diffe r e nc e in t h e colors
.

ob t ain e d d u e t o t h e iron mord an t ; also compar e t h e mord an t

,

color wi t h t h e dy e d color and no t e t h e influ e nc e of t h e bo t t o m

,

color of t h e mordan t on t he r e sul t ing color lak e -

.

Ex pe ri m e n t 7 7 Us e of Ot h e r Ag e nt s i n Dy e i n g B a s i c Dy es
.

Mordant a t e st sk e in of co t t on yarn in a b at h con t ai ning 3 0 0 cc

-
.

of wat e r and 2 0 p e r c e n t of s u m ac e xt rac t . En t e r a t 1 9 0 F .

°

work t h e co tt on in t h e bat h for 1 5 minu t e s t h e n s t e e p und e r ,

t h e liquor for 1 hour wi t hou t furt h e r h e a t ing Squ e e z e t h e sk e in .

and p ass int o a fr e sh b at h con t aining 3 0 0 cc of wat e r and .

2 p e r c e n t of an t imony sal t ( a doubl e s al t of an t imony fluorid e

.

wi t h ammonium sulph at e ) ; work cold for 1 5 minu t e s t h e n wash ,

w e ll (2 2 2 ) and d ye in a fr e sh b at h con t aining 3 0 0 cc of wat e r .

,
 B AS I C D Y ES ON C O TT O N . 1 27

c n t of alu m and 2 p e r c e n t of Thi o fl av i ne T C onduc t

5 p e r e .
,
. .

t h e dy e ing op e ra t ion as usual Wash w e ll and dry .

Expe r i m e nt 7 8 Dy e i ng B as i c Co lo r s i n On e B a t h
.
— Pr e p ar e .

a cold b at h con t aining 3 00 cc of wat e r 6 p e r c e n t of ac e t ic acid

. .
,
.
,

2 p e r c e n t of t annic acid . and 1 pe r c e n t of M al achi t e G r e e n

,
. .

Dy e a sk e in of co t t on yarn in t his b at h cold for 1 5 minu t e s t h e n ,

raise t h e t e mp e rat ur e t o 1 0 5 F for 1 5 minu t e s and fi nally t o °

.
,

1 40 F
°
for 1 5 minu t e s ; t h e n rins e t h e sk e in squ e e z e and dry
.
, ,

Th e fas t n e ss t o washing of t h e colors dy e d in t his mann e r

may b e incr e as e d by firs t rinsing aft e r dy e ing in wat e r con t ain
ing 3 t o 2 pe r c e n t of t ar t ar e m e t ic This m e t hod i s only
. .

applic abl e t o amoun t s of dy e s t u ff up t o abou t 1 p e r c e n t Th e .

color lak e is h e ld in solu t ion b y t h e pr e s e nc e of t h e ac e t ic acid

-
,

and only s e parat e s o u t gradually in t h e fi br e on h e at ing t he b at h .

Ex pe r i m e n t 7 9 Us e o f t h e Janu s Dy e s
. Th e s e dy e s t u ffs .

a re b asic colors which al so poss e ss subs t an t iv e or dir e c t dy e ing

prop e r t i e s t hough t o form a fas t color lak e i t i s n e c e ssary t o

,
-

fix t h e d y e wi t h t annin Pr e par e a d ye b a t h con t aining 3 0 0 cc

.
-
.

of wat e r 2 pe r c e n t of ac e t ic acid 5 p e r c e n t of z inc sulphat e and

,
.
,
.
,

2 p e r c e n t of Janus R e d . Add only a por t ion of t he dy e s t u ff

.

solu t ion at fi rs t ; e n t e r t h e co t t on sk e in a t abou t 2 0 0 F work for °

.
,

1 0 minu t e s t h e n add t h e r e maind e r of t h e dy e s t u ff; work for

,

1 0 minu t e s long e r and t h e n add 2 0 pe r c e n t of common sal t -

.
, ,

and work for o ne h alf hour at t h e boil R ins e t he dy e d co t t on

-
.

'

and pass i nt o a fixing b at h con t aining 3 00 cc of wa t e r .

,

4 p e r c e n t of t annic
. acid ; work cold for 1 5 minu t e s ; t h e n lif t t h e

sk e in and add t o t h e b at h 2 p e r c e n t of t ar t ar e m e t ic and 1 p e r .

c e n t of sulphuric acid and work cold for 1 5 minu t e s long e r t h e n

.
, ,

rais e t h e t e m pe rat ur e t o 1 40 F for 1 5 minu t e s °

Finally was h
. .

w e ll and dry
NOTES .

Su b s t an c e s Em plo y e d fo r Mor danti ng Co t t o n Ta nni ns B y . .

“ ”
t h e g e n e ral t e rm t annins is m e an t a numb e r of r e lat e d organic
acids which occur as t h e ast ring e n t principl e s in ve g e t abl e life .

Th e y ar e g e n e rally analogous in t h e ir ch e mical prop e rt i e s and ar e

ch arac t e ri z e d by t h e ir prop e r t y of t anning animal skins (t hat is ,
 1 28 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

conv e r t ing t h e an i mal t issu e in t o l e at h e r ) forming insolubl e com ,

pounds wi t h album e n pr e ci pi t a t ing basic dy e s from solu t i on and

, ,

y i e ld i ng bluish or gr e e nish black colors wi t h solu t ions of iron sal t s .

Th e majori t y of t h e na t ur al t annins also con t ain y e llowish or

brownish coloring ma tt e rs ; pur e t annic acid how e v e r h as no
—
, ,

sp e ci al color Som e of t h e t annins such as d e coc t ions of gall

.
,

nu t s and e x t rac t s of sumac may b e almos t e n t ir e ly d e colori z e d

,

by prop e r m e t hods of t r e at m e n t Wh e r e d e licat e and brig h t

.

colors are t o b e ob t ain e d on co tt on wi t h basic dy e s i t will b e

n e c e ssary t o e mploy e i t h e r pur e t annic acid or a d e colori z e d
sumac e x t rac t .

Though co t t on is in g e n e ral v e ry in e r t t owards solu t ions of

organ i c acids i t app e ars t o posse ss consid e rabl e a ffi ni t y for t annic
,

acid and will ab sorb i t r e adily from i t s solu t ions Tannins

, .

should b e s t or e d in a dry plac e as con t inu e d e xposur e t o damp

,

air will c ause t h e t annic acid t o d e compose giving brownish ,

colore d r e sinous subst anc e s Th e following are t h e mos t impor

.

t an t t annins e mploy e d in t h e mordan t ing of co t t on : ( 1 ) Ta nni c

a ci d or g al lo t annic acid
,
-
is pr e pare d e sp e cially from gall nu t s
,
-
,

which a re v e ry rich in t hi s acid Tannic acid com e s on t h e .

mark e t in t he form of a lig h t brown powd e r or y e llowish t o

brownish scal e s which usu al ly dark e n som e wha t on e xposur e t o
ligh t It i s solubl e in 6 par t s of cold wat e r and in e v e n a l e ss
.
,

quan t i t y of h o t wa t e r ; i t i s also fr e e ly solubl e in alcohol dilu t e ,

ac e t i c acid and glyc e rin Solu t ions of t annic acid and also of
,
.
,

any of t h e t ann i ns will gradually und e rgo fe rm e n t at ion and

,

b e com e d e s t roy e d In ord e r t o pr e ve n t t his d e composi t ion in

.

s t anding b at hs us e d for mordan t ing i t i s advisabl e t o boil up t he ,

b at hs r e p e at e dly or t o add a small amoun t of carbol i c acid t o

t hem . Wh e n us e d as a s t anding b at h ab o u t 7 0 p e r c e n t of t h e .

amoun t of t annin originally add e d t o t h e first b at h s h ould b e use d

for r e pl e nishing ( 2 ) S u ma c i s n e x t in impor t anc e t o t annic
.

acid i t s e lf for purpos e s of dy e ing co t t on Th e sumac from t h e .

R h u s co ri ari a i s consid e r e d t h e b e s t and i t con t ains gallo t annic .

-

acid Si cilian s u m ac i s t h e b e st and l e as t color e d vari e t y ; aft e r

.

t his com e s t h e Am e rican (Virginian ) sumac which c an now b e ,

 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

Ta r ta r Em eti c a nd Anti mo ny S a lts T ar t ar

m e t ic is t h e
.
—
e

doubl e t art rat e of an t i mony and po t assium ; i t is a crys t allin e

s al t and is no t v e ry solubl e in cold wa t e r b u t i t is rat h e r e asily ,

solubl e in h o t wat e r . O ne par t of t h e s al t r e quir e s abou t 1 3 p ar t s

of wa t e r for solu t ion a t 7 0 F and only abou t 3 p ar t s of wat e r a t
°
.

1 80
°
F .Th e ac t iv e principl e in t ar t ar e m e t ic whic h e n t e rs in t o
t h e fixat ion of t h e t annin in t h e mord an t ing of co t t on is t h e
an t imony t rioxid e Sb 20 3 of which t h e pur e sal t con t ains
, , p e r

c e n t Th e comm e rcial prod uc t consist s of fine crys t als of i rre gu

.

lar lumps con t aining abou t 43 p e r c e n t of an t i mony t rioxid e It . .

fr e qu e n t ly adul t e rat e d wi t h ch e ap e r subst anc e s Though .

t ar t ar e m e t ic and t h e r e s t of t h e sal t s of an t imony a r e poisonous ,

no ill e ff e c t s n e e d b e fe ar e d from i t s u s e in dy e ing if t h e goods ,

a r e w e ll wash e d af t e r mordan t ing As t ar t ar e m e t i c is rat h e r an

.

e xp e nsiv e ch e mical i t is O ft e n r e plac e d by c h e ap e r s al t s of an t i

,

mony which hav e t he sam e e ffe c t in t h e fixat ion of t h e t ann i c

,

acid Th e chi e f subs t i t u t e s are as follows : ( 1 ) Anti mo ny s a lt

.
,

which is t h e doubl e sal t of an t imony fluorid e and ammonium

sulphat e ; i t occurs as wh i t e crys t al s of which 1 40 par t s are solubl e
,

in 1 00 par t s of wat e r Th e solu t ion i s s t rongly acid and corrod e s

.

glass and m e t als owing t o t h e hydrofluoric acid l i b e ra t e d An t i

,
.

mony sal t con t ains 4 7 pe r c e n t of an t i mony t rioxid e ; h e nc e 9 par t s

.

a re e quiv al e n t t o 1 0 p ar t s of t ar t ar e m e t ic ( )
2 P a t e nt s a lt or
.
,

D o u b le a nti mo ny flu o ri de is an t imony sodium fluorid e

,
-
It i s also .

crys t allin e and r e adily solubl e and lik e wise corrod e s glass and
,

m e t als It con t ai ns 66 p e r c e n t of an t i mony t rioxid e ; h e nc e

. .

part s of t his s al t are e quival e n t t o 1 00 p ar t s O f t ar t ar e m e t i c .

O f t h e s e t w o doubl e fluorid e s of an t imony 5 t o 2 0 par t s a r e ,

dissolv e d in 1 0 0 0 par t s O f wat e r and t h e ir s t rong ac i d i t y is n e u

,

t r ali z e d by t h e add i t i on of 6 t o 8 p e r c e n t in w e igh t of soda ash .

,

or jus t e nough t o r e nd e r t h e b at h sligh t ly t urb i d (3 ) Anti mo ny .

o x a la t e is t h e doubl e oxalat e of po t assium and an t imony and

,

was in t roduc e d as t h e firs t ch e ap subst i t u t e of t ar t ar e m e t ic ; i t

has giv e n much sat isfac t ion b u t has b e en n e arly sup e rse d e d by
,

t h e doubl e fl uorid e s It occurs as crys t als which ar e r e ad i ly

.

solubl e in wat e r b u t which dissoci at e rapidly in t o an insolubl e

,
 B AS I C D YES O N CO TTO N . 1 3 1

basic oxalat e of an t imony and a solubl e binoxalat e It con t ains .

only p e r c e n t of a n t imony t rioxid e as against.

p e r ce nt ,
.

in t ar t ar e m e t ic ; t hough i t i s claim e d t o r e plac e e qual w e igh t s of

t h e la t t e r as i t combin e s mor e rapidly wi t h t annic acid
, ( )
4 A n t i .

mo ni ne i s t h e doubl e lac t a t e of an t i mony and c al ci um It .

occurs as crys t als con t aining 1 5 p e r c e n t of an t imony t rioxid e ; .

i t i s hygroscopic and v e ry r e adily solubl e It should b e e mploy e d .

i n a w e ak ly acid solu t ion t h at is wi t h t h e addi t ion O f abou t , ,

2 gallons of ac e t ic acid
p e r 1 0 0 0 g al lons of liquor T his produc t .

i s qui t e e x t e nsiv e ly e mploy e d .

Th e fixing ba t h of t ar t ar e m e t ic lik e t hat of t h e t annin m ay b e , ,

e mploy e d con t inuously b e ing fr e sh e n e d up accordingl y As t h e

,
.

b at h b e com e s acid on using d u e t o t h e r e moval of t h e an t imony ,

t rioxid e a li tt l e sod a ash should b e add e d from t im e t o t im e t o

,

n e u t rali z e t h e acid as i t accumulat e s ; t his is b e s t don e by adding

a dilu t e solu t ion of soda ash un t il a sligh t t urbidi t y is app ar e n t .

If t h e lib e rat e d t art aric acid i s allow e d t o accumulat e wi t hou t

b e ing n e u t r al i z e d i t will a c t so as t o r e dissolve t h e pr e cipi t at e d
,

an t imony t annat e and t hus l e ss e n t h e value of t h e fi xing b at h

,
.

S A M P L ES .

with t n i id
Co tt o n m o r dant e d a n c ac .

M d nt d tt n d y d w i t h M t hyl n B l
o r a e co o e e e e ue .

U m d t d
n t t n d y d w i t h M t h yl
o r an e Bl
co o e e e ne ue .

C tto m d nt d w i t h t anni
o n o r nd a nt i m y e n a a o n .

M t h yl V i l t n t
e in ti m
o e ym d t o ann -
an o n o r an .

C t t n m d t d w i t h t nni n
o o o r d pp
an e a an co e ra s .

M t h yle Bl n t nni n i
e ne m d t ue o a -
ro n o r an .

C tt n m d t d w i t h t
o o o rin d an etim y lt a nn an an o n sa .

Thi fl i n T n t ni
o av t im
e y m d nt o an n-an o n o r a .

M l hit G n dy d i n b t h
a ac e re e e n o e a .

J n R d b f m d nt i n g
a us e e o re o r a .

J n R d ft m d t i g w i t h t
a us e a i n nt i m ny
er o r an n a nn -
a o .

Q U IZ II .

281 . In o rde r t hat co tt n m y

o m b i n Wi t h b i d y
a co e as c es ho w mu st i t b e
t re a t e d ? Th e m o rda nt s m t pus wh t h mi l h t
o sse ss a c e ca c ara c e r ?
2 82 . Wh y i s t a nn i c ac id i t bl m d nt f
a su a tt n i n
e o r a o r co o co nne ct i o n wi t h
b as i c d y es ? Wh at o t he r mo rda nt s co uld be u se d o n co t t o n fo r b a si c d y es ?
 32 D YE N G AN D I TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

2 83 . De s cri b e t he me t ho d o f mo rda n t i n g co t to n wi th t a nn i c a ci d . Why

i s t he co t to n a llo w ed to co o l do wn i n the b at h ?
2 84 . Do e s t h e co tto n e xh a u st t h e t a nn i c a ci d fro m so lu t i o n? Ho w m u ch
do e s i t t a k e up ?
2 85 . G i ve t h e co nd i t i o ns o fd y ing
e the b a s i c co lo rs o n co tto n m o rd ant e d
wi t h t a nni c a cid . At wh at p
t e m e ra t ure s d o y i ng t k pl
es t he d e a e a ce ?
2 86 . Wh y is it re co mm e nde d no t t b i l t h t ni n b t h i
o o e an a n m o r d a nt i n g
co tt o n ? Do e s t h e fib re h o ld t h e ta nni n i n in l bl
n a ndi t i so u e co o n a ft e r mo r
d ant i n ? g
2 87 . Wh at i s t a nni c a ci d a n d fro m wh t i i t bt
a s o a i ne d ? Wh a t o t he r s ub

s t a n ce s b e s i de s t ann i c a ci d d o m o st ve g t bl t n i
e a e a n n s co n t a i n ?

2 88 . Wh at i s t he o bj e ct o f fii gx n t h e t a nni n a ft e r m o rd a n t i n g nd b f a e o re

d y i g?
e n The sa lts o f Wha t m e t als a re mo st su i t a bl e fo r fi i ng g t f
x a en s o r

t a nni n , a nd wh y ?
2 89 . Wh at i s t art ar e me t i c ? Wh a t i s t he a ct i v e su b s t a n ce i n t hi s sa lt

w hi ch a ct s a s the fii g g
x n a e nt fo r t h e t a nn i n ?
290 . Wh at co mp nd o u is fo rm e d in t he fib wh re en ta nn i c a ci d 1 5 fi xe d wi t h
t a rt ar e me t i c ?
2 9 1 . De scri b e t he me t h o d o f fii g
x n t a nni n o n co tt o n with t a rt a r e me t i c .

At wh at tem p e ra t u re i s the b a t h u se d ? Why do e s a se p a ra t e b ath fro m t h e

mo rd a nt i n h a v e g to be u se d ?
292 . E pl x ain the c h e m i ca l re a c t i o n wh i ch ta k pl es a ce b tw t h t
e een e a rt a r

e m e t i c a nd t h e t a nn i c a ci d . Wh at co lo r i s t he co t to n a ft erfi i ng w i t h x a nt i

mo n y?
29 3 . Why i s a ce t i c a ci d a d de d t o t h e d ye - b t h i n dy i g t t n w i t h b i
a e n co o as c

co lo rs ? Wh a t o t h e r sub st a nce s may b e em pl y d f t h o m p p

e ? o r e sa e ur o se

2 94 . Why sho uld t h e co t t o n b e t h o ro u ghly w h d ft t h t in m as e a er e a nn or

d ant h as b ee n fi wi th t t
xe d a r a r e me t i c ? Sh ld i t b w h d ft
o u m d t i ng
e as e a er o r an

wi t h t a nni n a n d b f fi i g?
e o re x n

29 5 . Ho w m u ch t a nni n a nd t a rt a r e m e t i c s h o u ld be u se d fo r m o rd a nt i n g
co t t o n fo r e a ch p e r ce nt a g e o fd y e s t uff u se d ?
296 . Su pp o se
5 0 p o u nd s o f co tt o n y arn a re to b e d y d with
e 21
; pe r ce nt . o f
Me t h yl V i o le t : gi v e t h e si z e o f v at q u i re d
i f i t i s t o b e 3 fee t d ee
re ,
p by 2 fe e t
wid e . Ho w m u ch t a nni c a ci d a nd h o w m u ch t a rt a r e m e t i c o uld b e w req ui re d ?
If su m a c w e re u se d in pl a ce o f ta nni c a ci d , h o w m u ch w o uld be re q u i re d ?

Ho w m an yq u a rt s o f a ce t i c a ci d (Sp gr . .o f 30 pe r ce nt s t re ngt h w o uld .

be u se d ? Ho w m a n yq u a rt s o f M e t h y l V i o le t so lu t i o n co nt a i ni n g 4 o u n ce s

pe r g a llo n ?

29 7 . Wh at is co pp e r as ? By wh at o t h e r na m e i s i t co mmo nl y k n wn o in
t ra d e ?
2 98 . Wh a t re act i o n tak es pl a ce b tw
e ee n
.
t a nni c a ci d a nd sa lt s o f i ro n ?
Wh at co lo r i s t he re su lt i ng co mp o u nd ?
1 34 D YE N G AN D I TEX TILE CHEMIS TR Y
316 . Ho w do e s s u m a c e x t ra c t o ccu r i n t ra de ? Ar e su m a c e xt ra ct s b
li a le
t o d e t e ri o ra t i o n o n s t o ra g e ?
3 1 7 . W h a t a re g alls o r g all- nu t s , a n d h o w d o t he y o ri gi na t e ? Ho w m u ch
t anni n d o t h e b tg
es alls co nta i n ?

31 8 . Of wh at do my b ro o lans co n si s t ? Ho w m u ch t a nn i n d o t h e y co nt a i n

Fo r w h t k i nd a o f d y i ng e a re th e y so me t i me s u se d ?
3 9 1 . Wh a t i s div i di vi , -
a nd h o w mu ch t a nn i n do e s i t co nt a i n ? G ive t h e
ra t i o i n t a nni n b tw e ee n p u re ta nni c a ci d , g a ll- nu t s , s u m a c e xt ra ct , a nd su m a c

le a v e s .

320 . Ho w do e s t a rta r e m e t i c o ccu r i n t ra de G ive so m e i de a as to i ts

s o lu b ili t y in w at e r . Ho w m u ch a nt i m o n y t ri o xi de Sh o u ld p u re t a rt a r e me t i c

co nt a i n ? Ho w m u ch i syp t i th u s u a ll re se n n e co mme rci al v ari e ty ?

32 1 . A lt
re f sati m ypi n ? D
s o an o n o so o us O the y ppa e ar to gi v e an
y b ad
re su lt s if p p ly m pl y d i n d y i ng ? N m
ro er e o e e a e t he ch i e f su b sti t u t e s o f t a rt ar
e me t i c .

32 2 . Of wh at do e s an t i m o n y salt co ns i s t ? Ho w d o es i t co m p a re with
t art a r e me t i c a s
‘

to so b y
lu ili t a nd t h e a mo u nt o f a n t i mo nyt ri o xi d e it co nt a i ns ?
Of wh at ch ara ct e r is its so lu t i o n ?
323 . Wh at is
“
p a t e nt sa lt
”
HOW do e s i t co m a re i t h t art a r e m e t i c as
? p w
to so lu b ili t y a nd a mo u nt o f a nt i mo n t ri o x i d e y
re se nt ? Ho w sho u ld t h e p
s o lu t i o ns o f th e a nt i mo n yfl uo ri d e s be p p re a re d ?
324 . O f Wh a t d o e s a nt i m o n y o x ala t e co ns i s t ? Ho w d o e s i t re a ct wh en

d i s so lv e d i n w ate r ? Ho w d o e s i t co m p a re with t he a nt i m o n yfl u o ri d e s a nd

t a rt a r e me t i c ?

325 . Wh a t is a nt i m o ni ne ? Ho w d o e s i t co m p a re wit h t a rt ar e m e t i c a s to

so lu b ili ty a nd p e r ce n t a e g o f a nt i mo n y t ri o xi de p re se n t ? Ho w Sh o uld its

so lu t i o n b e pfe pa re d ?
32 6 . May t h e xi n fi gb a th s o f a nt i m o n y s a lt s be em pl y
o ed as a s t and i n g
k e tt le , a nd if so ,
ho w sh o u ld t he b ath s b e t re a t e d i n o rd e r to p re v e nt t he i r

d e t eri o ra t i o n
 S ECT I ON XII .

REP RESEN TA TIVE B AS IC DYES .

Ex pe ri m e n t 80 Pri n ci pal B a si c Dy e s on Co tt o n
. Use t e s t .

S k e ins of co tt on yarn mordan t e d in t h e mann e r d e scrib e d in

E xp 7 5 wi t h 4 p e r c e n t of t annin and 2 p e r c e n t of t ar t ar
. . .

e m e t ic. P r e par e t h e d y e b at h wi t h 2 pe r c e n t of alum and t h e

-
.

dy e s t u ffs giv e n b e low ; e n t e r a t 1 0 0 F gradu al ly raise t h e t e m

°

p e r a t u re t o 1 80 F°
and d y e a t t h a t poin t for o n e half hour ; ,
-

wash w e ll and dry .

r cent B ismarck B rown

2
p e .

r ce nt S afranin
2
p e . e

e r c e n t B rillian t G r e e n
2
p .

2 p e r c e n t Ne w M e t hyl e n e B lu e B B
.

r c e n t Tannin O rang e R
2
p e .

2 p e r c e n t Vic t ori a B lu e B
.

1 p e r c e n t R hodamin e
.

1 pe r c e n t . B rillian t Phosphin e (2 3 4 )
2 p e r c e n t Acridin e R e d
.

c n Ir i sa m i ne
5p e r e .t

Te s t fiv e of t h e s e colors for fas t n e ss t o ligh t wash i ng and , ,

crocking ( se e Ex p s 5 7 5 8 and .
, ,

R ECO R D OF S
R E U LT S OF S S
TE T .

T est s

Wh i t e co t to n
 1 36 D YE I N G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

Ex pe ri m e n t 8 1 Pr i n ci pal B as i c Dy e s o n Silk
.
U s e a d ye .

b a t h con t a i n i ng 5 p e r c e n t of so ap and Sligh t ly ac i di fy by t h e

.

add i t ion of s u fl i c i e n t ac e t ic acid En t e r t h e silk at abou t 1 00 F

f
.
°
.

and gradually rais e t o 1 9 0 F and d ye at t ha t t e mp e ra t ur e for

°
.
,

o n e h alf hour
-
Wash w e ll and bri gh t e n by passing t h e dye d
.
,

sk e i ns t h rough a b at h of d i lu t e ac e t ic acid squ e e z ing and drying ,

wi t h ou t washing U se t h e follow i ng dy e s t uffs

.

} p e r c e n t Diamond F u c h s i ne
4
.

2 ce nt
p e r . Diamond F u c h s i ne
3 p e r c e n t . Safranin e
4 pe r c e n t . M e t h yl e n e B lu e
2 pe r c e nt . M e t hyl e n e B lu e
1 per cent . Auramin e
2 pe r c e n t . M alachi t e G r e e n
2
p e r c e nt . B is m arck B rown
l pe r c e nt . R hodamin e
2 pe r c e nt . T anni n O rang e R

Te st fiv e of t h e s e colors for fas t n e ss to wa t e r ( s e e Ex p .

R ECO R D OF R E U LT S S OF TE TS S .

T e s ts

St e e p i n g w a te r

Wh i t e S i lk

Whi t e co tto n

NO TES .

1 . Th e Us e of B a si c Col o r s on Co tt on Though t h e b asic .

d y e s poss e ss a s t rong a ffi ni t y for t h e animal fibr e s and may b e ,

dy e d on t h e s e in a n e u t ral b at h wi t hou t any o t h e r addi t ion t han

t h e dy e s t u ff i t s e lf co t t on ( and t h e v e g e t abl e fibr e s in g e n e ral )
‘

poss e ss e s b u t a v e ry slig h t at t rac t ion for t his class of dy e s t u ffs .

.

A fe w of t h e b asic dy e s suc h as M ag e n t a Ch rysoidin e B i smarck

, , ,

B rown and M e t hyl e n e B lu e wi ll b e absorb e d t o a c e r t ain e x t e n t

, ,
 1 38 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEMIS TR Y .

poin t i t would s e e m t hat by e n t e ring t h e co tt on at a t e mp e ra t ure

j us t und e r t he boil and allowing i t t o s t e e p in t h e cool i ng liquor
for abou t 2 hours i t will absorb abou t as much t annin as i t
would i f t h e s t e e ping was con t inu e d for 1 0 t o 1 2 hours It i s .

b e s t t o s t ar t t h e s t e e ping at a t e mp e rat ur e n e ar t h e boiling poin t ,

chi e fly for t h e purpos e of driving o u t air bubbl e s from t h e fibr e

and c ausing b e tt e r p e n e t rat ion of t h e t annin solu t ion Th e high e r .

t e mp e ra t ur e do e s no t app e ar t o influ e nc e t h e ac t ual absorp t ion

of t h e t annin i t s e lf by t h e co t t on as mor e i s absorb e d from a
,

cooling bat h t han from o ne in which a high t e mp e rat ure i s ma i n

t ai ne d . Th e s t r e ng t h of t h e t annin ba t h should b e b as e d on t h e
amoun t of coloring mat t e r t o b e subs e qu e n t ly us e d i t b e ing
-
,

cus t omary t o t ak e abou t t wic e as much t annin (as t annic acid and
corr e sponding amoun t s of t annin e x t rac t s in accordanc e wi t h t h e
p e rc e n t ag e of t annic acid pr e s e n t ) as dy e s t u ff ; t hat is if a color ,

is t o b e O b t ain e d r e quiring abou t 2 p e r c e n t of dy e s t u ff abou t .

,

4 p e r c e n t of t annin should b e us e d for mordan t ing

. Whe r e l i g h t
.

S had e s a r e b e ing dy e d i t is no t cus t omary t o pr e s e rv e t h e t annin

'

b at h b u t for dark h e avy shad e s wh e r e bat hs con t ain i ng 4 t o 1 0

, ,

p e r c e n t of .t annin a r e b e ing us e d i t i s b e s t t o ,
u s e t h e b a t hs
con t inuously fr e s h e ning t h e s t anding bat h e ach t ime wi t h 3 t o
,

4 p e r c e n t of t annin
. T h e amoun t of. liquor us e d in t h e mor
d an t ing ba t h should no t b e mor e t h an 1 5 t o 1 6 t im e s t h e w e ig h t
of t h e co t t on ; t hat is e ach pound of co t t on should hav e abou t
,

2 gallons of wa t e r for mordan t ing ; if a gr e a t e r amoun t of wa t e r

i s us e d t h e propor t ion of t annin absorb e d by t he fibr e w i ll b e

,

l e ss e n e d and a corr e spondingly larg e r amoun t of t ann i n will

hav e t o b e us e d Th e wat e r e mploy e d in t h e mordan t ing b at h
.

should b e as fr e e from iron as possibl e if t h e t annin is t o b e fix e d '

wi t h an t imony ; for iron pr e s e n t in e v e n a Sligh t t rac e will al t e r

t h e color of t h e dy e ing consid e rably e sp e cially in t h e cas e of p al e
,

S had e s . If t h e wat e r do e s con t ain any iron a sm al l amoun t of ,

hydrochloric acid should b e add e d which will hold t h e iron

t anna t e in solu t ion and pr e v e n t i t from con t amina t ing t h e fibr e .

H ard wa t e r t hat is a calcar e ous wat e r unl e ss of v e ry consid e r

, , ,

abl e hardn e ss is no t e sp e cially d e t rim e n t al for u se wi t h t annin ;

,
 REP RES E N TA TI VE B AS I C D YES . 1 39

if t h e r e is much lim e pr e s e n t i t may r e sul t in t h e pr e cipi t at ion of

,

som e of t h e mordan t in t h e form of t annat e of lim e Su c h wa t e r .

may b e b e s t corr e c t e d by t h e addi t ion of su ffici e n t ac e t ic acid

t o giv e a sligh t acid r e ac t ion t o t h e ba t h pr e vious t o t h e addi t ion

of t h e t annin Aft e r t h e s t e e ping in t h e t annin i s compl e t e d

.
,

t h e co tt on should b e w e ll squ e e z e d or wrung o u t t o r e mov e t h e

e xc e ss of liquor ; in prac t ic e t his may b e b e s t accomplish e d

by hydro e x t rac t ion It is no t advisabl e t o rins e t h e co t t on aft e r
-
.

r e mov al from t h e t annin b at h as t his will only r e sul t in r e dis

,

solving som e of t h e absorb e d t annin and t h e re si d ii al liquor

,

in t h e co t t on will s t i ll b e a solu t ion of t annin ; SO t hat t he rinsing

do e s no t s e rve t h e purpos e of r e moving such r e sidual liquor ,
i

b u t only r e sul t s in t h e l e ss e ning of t h e mordan t Th e r e do e s no t

.

app e ar t o b e much di fficul t y at t ach e d t o t h e un e v e n squ e e z ing

or wringing of t h e mordan t e d co t t on l e ading t o un e v e n r e sul t s
in t h e subs e qu e n t dy e ing ; prob ably if t h e t annin t hrough o ne ,

caus e or ano t h e r i s dis t ribu t e d v e ry un e v e nly t hrough t h e co t t on

, ,

t h e r e may r e sul t un e v e n dy e ing y e t und e r ordinary condi t ions

,

par t icular c au t ion do e s no t hav e t o b e t ak e n in t h e e v e n squ e e z ing

of t h e w e t co tt on .

C
‘ Aft e r t h e mordan t e d co t t on is squ e e z e d t h e n e xt op e rat ion i s t o
p ass t hrough a fixing b at h con t ain i ng t ar t ar e m e t ic or o t h e r su i t
abl e salt o f an t imony Th e fixing i s compl e t e in from 1 5 t o 3 0
.

minu t e s and a cold b at h is us e d ; t h e amoun t of t ar t ar e m e t ic

n e c e ssary is abou t o ne half t hat of t h e t annin us e d ; in o t h e r
-

words i t is abou t e quival e n t t o t h e amoun t of dy e s t u ff t o b e us e d

,
.

F o r o t h e r an t imony s al t s corr e spond i ng amoun t s mus t b e us e d

,

( s e e pr e vious s e c t ion ) T h
. e r e ac t ion in t h e fixing b a t h consis t s
of t h e forma t ion of an t imony t anna t e in t h e fibr e and i t should b e ,

so adj us t e d t hat al l of t h e t annin pr e s e n t i s t hus combin e d ; t hi s

r e ac t ion n e c e ssi t a t e s of cours e t h e lib e ra t ion in t h e b at h of t h e
, ,

acid pr e viously combin e d wi t h t h e an t imony wi t h t ar t ar e me t i c

t h e r e would b e lib e ra t e d t ar t aric acid O n t his accoun t wh e n
.
‘ ,

using t h e fixing liquor as a s t anding b at h i t will b e n e c e ssary t o

,

add su ffi ci e n t soda ash from t im e t o t im e t o n e u t r al i z e t h e acidi t y ,

o t h e rwis e t h e t annat e of an t imony will b e di ssolve d from t h e

 1 40 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

fibr e Wh e n t h e fixat ion of t h e t annin mordan t i s compl e t e d t h e

.

co t t on mus t b e t horoughly wash e d for t h e purpos e of r e moving

all uncombin e d t ar t ar e m e t ic or t annin i f e xc e ss of e i t h e r of t h e s e
,

is pr e s e n t in t h e fibr e wh e n i t is pass e d in t o t h e d y e —ba t h i t

w i ll r e sul t in t h e loss of coloring —mat t e r and prob ably l e ad t o
s t r e ak e d and imp e rfe c t dy e ing Aft e r t h e mordan t ing and fixing
.

op e rat i ons are finish e d t o o long a t im e should no t e laps e b e for e

t h e dy e ing for if t h e mordan t e d co t t on is e xpos e d for any l e ng t h
,

of t im e t o t h e air and ligh t t h e e xpos e d par t s will t urn som e w h at

brownish and aft e r dy e ing will app e ar dull e r If t h e dy e ing .

c anno t b e c arri e d o u t t h e sam e d ay as t h e mordan t i ng and fixing ,

t h e mat e ri al should b e cov e r e d wi t h a mois t e n e d clo t h .

In som e cas e s in ord e r mor e t horoughly t o combin e any e xc e ss

O f t ar t ar e m e t ic in t h e fibr e aft e r fixing t h e co t t on is pass e d
,

b ack in t o t h e t annin ba t h (usu al ly a ra t h e r w e ak o ne ) Thi s

.

back t anning may also b e don e aft e r dy e ing ; i t also ap pe ars t o

-
”

g i v e colors which are fas t e r t o washing As an t imony compounds

.

ar e of a poisonous na t ur e t h e y should b e t horoughly fix e d in t h e

fibr e as o t h e rwis e blood poisoning migh t r e sul t from fabrics worn

,

n e x t t h e skin In c e r t ain c as e s (as wi t h Vic t ori a B lu e and Me t hy

.

l e n e B lu e ) in ord e r t o ob t ain e v e n S had e s i t i s n e c e ssary t o wash

t h e co tt on af t e r fixing for 1 5 t o 3 0 minu t e s in a warm soap ba t h

( con t aining abou t 2 ounc e s soap t o 1 0 gallons of wa t e r ) and ,

aft e rwards wash in fr e sh wa t e r Th i s t r e at m e n t usually pro

.

duc e s cl e ar e r and mor e e v e n sh ad e s .

In t h e dy e ing i t i s b e s t t o s t ar t t h e bat h cold using 2 5 t o 3 0

,

t im e s a s much wa t e r as co t t on (o ne pound of co t t on would t h e r e

for e r e quir e abou t 4 gallons of wat e r ) and adding firs t abou t

,

1 t o 1 3 p e r c e n t of ac e t ic acid ; t his s e rv e s t h e purpos e of corr e c t ing

.

any hardn e ss in t h e wat e r and t hus pr e v e n t s any pr e cipi t a t ion

of coloring mat t e r an d al so mak e s t h e b at h sligh t ly acid wh i ch
-
,

avoids t o o rapid an e xh aust ion of dy e s t u ff in t h e dy e ing Aft e r .

t h e acid h as b e e n plac e d in t h e b at h a por t ion of t h e color solu t ion

is add e d and t h e n t h e co t t on is e n t e r e d and work e d for abou t

,

1 0 minu t e s ; t h e mat e ri al is t h e n lift e d and a fur t h e r por t ion of

,

t h e dy e s t u ff solu t ion add e d t h e b a t h b e ing h e a t e d t o abou t 1 0 0 F

°
.
,
1 4 2 D YE N G AN D I TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

mordan t e d abou t 1 pin t of such a mix t ur e is add e d afr e sh Aft e r ’

mordan t ing t h e yarn is wrung o u t w e ll s t raigh t e n e d and dri e d aft e r

, , ,

wh i ch t h e same t re at m e n t is r e p e at e d Th e dy e ing is conduc t e d .

in a cold conc e n t rat e d b at h wi t h addi t ion of som e ac e t ic acid t h e ,

color solu t ion b e ing add e d in s e v e r al por t i ons In ord e r t o produc e .

l e ve l s h ad e s i t is n e c e ssary t hat t h e yarn b e wrung o u t as e ve nly

as possibl e and t hat t h e mordan t ing b e r e p e at e d s e v e ral t i m e s .

2 . Li s t of t h e Pr i n ci p al B a s i c Dy es Th e basic dy e s do no t .

includ e such a larg e lis t as t h e acid dy e s t hough t h e appar e n t ,

numb e r is consid e rably incr e as e d by t h e fac t t hat t he sam e d ye

s t u ff is fr e qu e n t ly giv e n a vari e t y of di ff e r e n t nam e s and frir ,

t h e r m o re a numb e r of mix t ure s ar e mar k e t e d und e r sp e cific

,

nam e s Som e of t h e s e dy e s are mor e adap t e d t o t h e dy e ing

.

of silk t han of co t t on and vic e v e rsa ; t his c an only b e d e t e r,

min e d by r e fe re nc e t o t h e sp e cific prop e r t i e s of t he individual

dye s t uffs .

RED .

Acri d i ne R e d . Ma ge nt a Sca rle t .

Acri di ne Sca rle t . Ma ro o n .

B ri lli a nt R h o d uli ne Ne u t ra l R e d .

Ca rdi nal . N e u t ra l Sca rle t .

Ce ri se . Ne w M a ge n t a .

D i a m o nd Fu ch si ne . Pa ra fu ch s i ne .

Di a m o nd Ma g e nt a . Pa t e nt R h o da m i ne .

Fu ch s i ne . P y
r o n i ne .

G re na di ne . Rho da m i ne .

Ind uli ne Sca rle t . R h o di ne .

Iri sa m i ne . Rho d uline R e d .

Iso ru b i ne . R o sa z e i ne .

J a nu s B o rde aux . R u i neb .

J a nu s Re d . Safra ni ne .

Ma ge nt a .

O RA N G E .

Acri di ne O ran g e . Ho m o pho sphi ne .

Az o Pho s h i ne p . Ne w Acri di ne O ra n g e .

B ri lli ant Ph o s ph in e . N e w Ph o s h i n e p .

Ca ne lle . Pa ra pho sp hi ne .

Ch r y so i di ne . Pa t e nt Pho s hi ne p .

Co ri ph o sphi ne . Ph o s phi ne .

Flavi nd uli ne . Ta nni n O ra n g e .

 REPRES E N TA TI VE B AS I C D YES .
43

(c) Y ELLOW .

Acri di ne Ye llo w .

Au ra ci ne .

Au ra m i ne .

B e nz o fl av i ne .

J anu s Ye llo w .

( )
d G REEN .

Azi ne G re e n .
Mala chi t e G ree n .

B en g al G re e n .
Me t h yl G re e n .

B rilli a nt G re e n . Me t hyle ne G re e n .

Ca p ri G re e n . Ne w Fa st G ree n .

Chi na G ree n . Ne w Gree n .

D i a m o nd G re e n . N e w So li d G ree n .

D i a zi ne G ree n . N ew Vi ct o ri a G re e n .

y
Et h l G re e n . Vi ct o ri a Gre e n .

J anu s G re e n .

(6 ) L E
B U .

Az i n do ne Blu e . Fa st B lue .

B a s le B lu e . Fa s t B lue fo r co tto n .

B av ar i an B lu e . Fa st Co t t o n B lue .

B en g al B lu e . Fa s t M a ri ne B lu e .

B le u d e L y o n . Fa st Ne w B lu e .

Bo m by a Blue . Ge nt i a ni ne .

B ri lli a nt B lue . He lve t i a B lue .

B ri lli a nt Cre s l B lue y . Inda mi ne B lue .

B ri lli a nt D i a zi ne B lu e . Ind a ni l B lue .

B ri lli ant M e t a m i ne B lue . In dazi ne .

B ri lli ant Vi ct o ri a B lue . Ind i g en .

Ca pir B lu e . Ind i g o B lue .

Ch i n a B lu e . Ind o i ne .

Co tt o n B lu e . Indo i ne B lue .

Co tt o n g
L i h t B lu e . Indo l B lu e .

y
Cre s l B lu e . Indo ne B lue .

Cr y st a l F as t B lue . Indo ph e ni ne B lue .

Dar k B lu e . J a nu s B lue .

D i az i ne B lu e . J a nu s D ar k B lue .

D i ph e n e Blu e . g
L i ht B lue .

p y
D i h e n la mi ne B lu e . Mari ne B lue .

Et h yl Bl I Ie . Me t a ph e nyle ne B lue .

Et h yl n B l
e e ue . Me t hyl B lue .

Ex ce lsi o r Co t t o n B lue . Me t hyl Co t t o n B lue .

1 44 D YE N G AN D I TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

L E
B U . Co n t i n u e d .

M e t h yl Indo ne . O p l C tt
a o o n Blu e .

Me t h yl L i gh t Blue . P p
a Bler ue .

Me t h yl Wa ter Blue . P p h yl
a ra en e ne B lue .

Me t hyle ne B lue . P k Bl
ea co c ue .

Me th yle ne Dark B lue . Ph e ni ne B lue .

Me t h yle ne Indi go . y
Ph e n le ne B lu e .

Mu sca ri ne . Pu re B lu e .

Naph t h i n do ne . Rh o d uli ne B lu e .

Na ph t ho l B lu e . Rho duli ne Sky B lu e .

N e u t ra l B lue . Se t o cya ni ne .

N e u t ral Pe a co ck B lue . Se t o gla u ci ne .

New B lu e . Se t o pa li ne .

Ne w Di a m o n d In d i g o Blue . So li d B lue .

Ne w Fa st B lu e . Th i o ni ne B lu e .

Ne w Indi o B lu e g . To lu i di ne B lu e .

Ne w M e t a m i ne Blue . y
To lu le ne B lu e .

Ne w Me t hyle ne B lue . Tu r k y Bl
e ue .

New So li d B lu e . Tu rq u o i se B lue .

Ne w Vi ct o ri a B lue . Vi ct o ri a B lue .

g
Ni h t B lu e . Vi cto ri a N i gh t B lue .

Nile B lu e . Wa t e r B lue .

(f) VIOLET .

B ri lli a nt Rh o d uline Pur le p . Me t h yle ne Vi o le t .

V i o le t
B ri lli a nt . Ne u t ra l Vi o le t .

Cre s yl F a s t V i o le t p
Pa ra h e n le ne y V i o le t .

Cry s t al Vi o le t . Pri m ula .

Da h li a . Re d Vi o le t .

Et h yl P urple . Re gi na V i o le t .

Et hyl Vi o le t . Rho d uli ne He li o tro p e .

Fa st Ne ut ral Vi o let . Rho d uli ne V i o le t .

G i ro fl é . Ro so la ne .

He li o t ro p e . b
Ru i ne V i o le t .

Iri s a m i ne . So da Vi o le t .

Iri sVi o le t . Ta nni n He li o t ro p e.

Me t hyl V i o le t . Vi o le t .

Me th yle ne He li o t ro pe .

(g) B ROWN .

Bi s m ar c k B ro w n . Man ch e st e r B ro wn .

B ro w n e x t ra so lu bl e . Ta nni n B ro w n .

Cu t ch B ro wn . Ve suvi ne .

J an u s B ro w n .
 1 46 D YE N G AN D I TEXTILE CHEMIS TR Y .

330 . Wh a t was t h e re sult o f yo u r t e st s fo r fas t ne s s t o w at er o f t he b y a si c d es

k?
o n si l Ho w do the y co m p are i n t hi s re s p e ct to the p
co rr e s o n d i n g i d dy ac es

whi h w c e re t e st e d ?

331 Do e s co tto n p o sse ss any d i re ct a t t ra ct i o n fo r the g e ne ra l cla ss o f b asi c

d y es ? Are t h e re a ny e x c e pt i o ns to thi s g e ne ra l rul e ?

3 32 . In o r de r t o dy e co tt o n wi t h t h e b a si c d y wh t p
es a re v i o u s t rea t me nt is
ne ce ssar y? Of wh at d o e s t h e m o rda nt co nsi s t ? Ho w d o e s t hi s m o rd ant
re a ct wi th b as i c dy es ?
333 . IS t h e a t t ra ct i o n o f the b a si cy d es fo r a nt i mo n y t a nna t e s t ro n g o r

w k ea ,
a nd h o w i s t h i s sh o w n in the dy i g ?
e n

334 . Wh at p re ca u t i o n s a re re co mm e nde d i n t h e d v e i ng o f b a s i c co lo rs o n

co t to n i n o rd e r to o bt ai n le v e l s h a de s ?
33 5 . In wh at two wy a s m ay t h e t a nni n m o rda nt b e a ppli ed t o co t t o n , a nd

fo r Wh a t clas se s o f m at e ri al i s e a ch mo s t a da pt bl a e ?
336 . Wh at i s m e a nt by p a ddi n g ”
a nd h o w i s t hi s d o ne ? Wh at k i nd o f a
so lu t i o n is u se d fo r p dd i g ?
a n

p g w i th by p g
“

337 . G i ve t h e ro ce ss o f m o rda nt i n co tto n t a nni n t h e st e e i n

p ro ce ss . Wh t l ngt h
a e o f t ime i s re q u i re d fo r thi p s ro ce s s ?
338 . Wh y s h o u ld the m o rda nt i n gb ath be st art e d ne a r the b o i li n g p i nt ? o

Unde r wh at co nd i t i o ns i s the g re a t e st a m o unt o f t a nni n t a k en u

p by th e

co tto n ?

339 . Ho w sh o u ld t h e st re n gt h f th o e t anni n b at h be re g u la t e d ? Ho w m u ch
t a nni n Sh o u ld y o u u se fo r t h dy i g
e e n o f 50 p o u nd s o f co tt o n wh e re t he co lo r

ca lls fo r 1 3
2 pe r c e nt . o fd y e s t uf
f
340 . Is i t p o ss i bl e to em pl y t ho e t anni n so lut i o n as a st a ndi n gb at h ? Ho w
m u ch t anni n Sh o u ld be u se d fo r fre sh e ni n ? g
341 . Ho w m a n yp o u nd s o f suma c e x t ra ct co nt a i ni n g 20 pe r c e n t . o f t ann i n
Sh o u ld be u se d fo r m o rd a n t i n g 75 p o u nd s o f co t t o n y arn wh i ch a re to be d y ed

w ith 3 p e r ce nt . o f co lo ri n gm -
at t e r ?
3 42 . Ho w m uch w a t e r sh o u ld be u se d i n t h e m o r d a nt i n gb at h in p p ro o rt i o n

t o the w i gh t e o f th e co t t o n t o b e m o rd a nt e d ?

3 43 . Ho w m a n yg a llo ns o f t a n ni n li q u o r w ld o u be re q u i re d fo r th e m o r

d a nt i n g f 75 o p o und s o f co t to n y arn ? If g m b i
a e r co nt a i n i n g 35 pe r ce nt . o f
t a nni n is to b e u se d fo r m o rda nt i n g ,
h o w m u ch sh o u ld b e t a k en if the co tt o n i s
to b e d y d with e 2 pe r c e nt . o fd y e s t u ff

3 44 . Wh a t Ch aract e r o f w a t e r Sh o u ld be u se d i n t h e t anni n b ath ? If t h e

t a nni n i s t o b e fi xe d wi t h a nt i m o n y w hy Sh o u ld th e w at e r b e free fro m i ro n

345 . If w a t e r co nt a i ni n gi ro n has to b e u se d fo r m o rd a nt i n g wi t h t a nni n ,

h o w m ay i t b e co rr e ct e d ? p
Ex lai n t h e a ct i o n o f t he su b s t a n ce u se d fo r co r

r e ct i n
g .

3 46 . Ca n calca re o u s w ater be u se d i n t h e t anni n b at h ? Wh a t a ct i o n ta k es

pl a ce b tw e ee n t h e li m e a nd t h e t anni n ? If t h e w at e r i s h i hl g y ca lca re o u s ho w
may i t b e co rre ct e d fo r use i n t h e tanni n b at h ?
 REP RES EN TA TI VE B AS I C D YES . 1 47

347 . Aft e r t h e co t t o n h as b e e n s t ee ped i n t h e t a nn i n so lu t i o n Sh o ul d it b e

ri n se d ? Why ?
3 48 . In t h e w i ng i ng
r o ut o f the co tt o n a ft e r m o rd ant i n g w i th t anni n d o
p art i cula r p a i ns h a ve t o b e t a k en in o rd e r to s qu ee ze o ut t he li qu o r e v e nl y?
3 49 . Ho w i s t h e t a nni n fixe d o n t h e co tt o n a ft e r m o r da n t i n ? g Wh y i s t h i s
ne ce s s ar y?
350 . Ho w i s t h e fi i g b th f t t
x n a o a r ar e m e t i c p p re a re d ? Ho w lo n g do e s
th e fi i ng q
x re u i re a nd w h t t m p t a e e ra u re ? Ho w m u ch t a rt ar e m e t i c Sh o u ld

be u se d ?
35 1 If 7 5 p o u nd s o f co tt o n a re to be d y d with
e 1 % p e r c e nt . o f b ia as c

d y e s t uff, ho w m an yp o und s o f t art a r emetic sh o ul d be u se d fo r fi i ng t h

x e

t a nni n ?

352 . Ho w m u ch a nt i mo n y sa lt w o ul d be re qui re d i n t he a b o v e ex a m pl e ?

Ho w m u ch a nt i mo n y o x a la t e a nd ho w m u ch a n t i m o ni n e ?
353 . What re a c t i o n ta k ples a ce in the fi i ng b
x ath o f t a rt a r e meti c ? Wi t h
a nt i m o n yfl u o ri de Wi th a nt i mo n y o xala t e ? Wi t h a nt i m o ni ne ?
354 . If t h e a nt i m o n y fi i ng li qx uo r is u se d a s a st a ndi n gb ath wh a t a dd i t i o n

is n e c e s sa r y a nd why ?
355 . Aft e r fi i g thx n e t a nni n w i th nt i m ny why i
a o s it ne ce ssa r yt o tho ro u ghly
w a sh the co tto n ? Wh at de f t w ld b li b l
ec s o u e a e to o ccu r if t hi s w e re no t

d o ne ?
35 6 . y i ng f b i l
Sho uld t h e d n tt n t k pl
e i mm d i t ly
o as c co o rs o co o a e a ce e a e

aft t h m d nt i ng nd fi i ng
er e o r a d why ? a x ,
an

357 If t h d y i g n t h m d nt d
. e e n tt n nn t b
o d n n th
e m d y
o r a e co o ca o e o e o e sa e a

wh t h ld b d w i t h t h m t i l ?
a s o u e o ne e a er a

3 5 8 Wh t i m nt by b k t i g H w i t h i d n nd w h t i i t
“
. a s ea ac -
a nn n o s s o e a a s s

p p ur o se

359 If y. f t i man y fi i g m p
ree an d i l ft i t h g
o n d ft d y i
x n g co o un s e n e o o s a er e n

m t i l a er a d f l t h i g w h t d f t i li b l t
u se o r c o i ? n ,
a e ec s a e o a r se

36 I 0 d. t i n o r erl h d wi th Vi t i B l h w h ld t h
o n su re c e a r eve n s a es c o r a ue o s o u e

cott n b t o t d fte fi i ng ?
re a e a er x

36 In dy i g
1 . t t n with b i e n l t wh t t mp
co o t h ld t h as c co o r s a a e e r a u re s o u e

b t h b t t d h w m h w t h ld b
a e s ar e ,
o d nd w h t ddi t i n h ld b
uc a er S o u e u se ,
a a a o s o u e

m d b f a e th l
e o rei dd d ? Wh t i t h p p
e co o r s af t hi ddi t i n ?
e a s e u r o se o s a o

36 I wh t m n
2 n h ld t h b i dy t ff b
a a dd d t t h d y b t h
ne r s o u d e as c es u e a e o e e -
a ,
an

h w h ld t h t m p
o s o u t f th b th b
e e g l t d?
e ra u re o e a e re u a e

3 63 In t d f d di ng
. s ea ti i d t th dy b t h f
o a b i l wh t
a ce c ac o e e- a o r as c co o rs , a

oth dd i t i n m y b m d ? A b i
er a o s a l e dy d t th b il ?
a e re a s c co o rs e v e r e a e o

3 6 4 Wh n m y t h t nni n m d
. e a t n tt n b e fi d wi t h i n i n pl
a o r an o co o e xe ro a ce

of nt i m y ? Wh t
a o n lt fi n m y b d ? Wh t i t h
a sa s o l f ir
ro a e u se a s e co o r o o n

t anna t e ?

365 . In fi i gt
x n a nni n w i th an i ro n sa lt h o w m ay a ci di t y i n t h fi i ng b e x ath

be ne u t ra li z e d ? Fro m wh t d a o es t h i s a ci di t a ri se ? y
1 48 D YEI N G AN D TEXTILE CHEMIS TR Y .

3 66 . Are d y gei n s o n an i ro n ta nni n mo rdant

-
as fa st as if an

u se d fi i g ? H w m y th p
fo r x n o f fi i g t nni n w i t h i n
a e ro ce ss o x n a ro

in d
o rt er bt in f t dy i g ?
o o a as e r e n s

367 Wh t b i
. a l m y bas c ppli d t tt n w i th t
co o rs a e a e o co o o u

H w i t h dy b t h p p
o s e e d in
-
ah ? A th
re are l f t su c a ca se re e co o r s as

3 68 H w m y b i gh t p i nk b
. o a b t in d n tt n wi th n
r s e o a e o co o a

Wh t il i
a O d ? H w i t h m d nt i g
s u se nd
o t d? s H w ie o r a n co uc e o

i d
ca rr e t d i n wh t k i nd f b th ? Wh at p
o u an a ti n o a a re ca u o s are

o rd r t o b t i n l v l co lo ?
e o a e e rs
1 5 0 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEMIS TR Y .

yarn Scour t h e o t h e r sampl e in a warm d i lu t e soap bat h t h e n

.
,

wash in fr e sh wat e r and dry and no t e if t he color h a s

ble d or no t in t o t he whi t e .

Ex pe ri m e n t 83 In fl u e n c e o f t h e Am o u n t o f Salt i n t h e Dy e
.

b at h . Dy e sk e ins of co tt on y a rn in b at hs con t aining 3 p e r c e n t .

of Chicago B lu e and t h e r e sp e c t ive amoun t s of common sal t as -

g i ve n b e low ; e n t e r a t 1 60 F bring t o t h e boil and d ye at t hat

°
.
, ,

t e mp e ra t ur e for o ne h al f hour t h e n wash w e ll and dry (2 5 1 2 5 2

-
, , ,

2 5 3 2 5 4)
.

( )
I U se no sal t .
(3 ) Us e 20 p e r c e n t of s al t
. .

( )
2 Us e 5 p e r c e n t . of sal t .
(4 ) Us e 1 00 p e r c e n t of sal
. t .

Compar e t h e d e p t h of color ob t ai n e d on t h e s e v e ral sk e ins and

d e t e rmin e what influ e nc e if any t h e amoun t of sal t has on t h e
, ,

color t ak e n up by t h e fibr e .

Expe ri m e n t 84 Use o f So d a As h
. V e ry oft e n a b e tt e r d e gr e e .

of e xhaus t ion of t h e d ye b at h and a gre a t e r fas t n e ss of t h e color

-

t o washing may b e ob t ain e d by dy e ing subs t an t iv e colors in a

ba t h mad e Sligh t ly al kalin e wi t h soda ash Dye a sk e in of co tt on .

yarn in a b at h con t aining 2 0 p e r c e n t of sal t 1 p e r c e n t of soda .

,
.

ash and 2 p e r c e n t of Columb i a G r e e n ; e n t e r at 1 60 F gradually

,
.
°

bring t o t h e boil and d y e a t t hat t e mp e rat ur e for o ne h alf hour

,
-
.

Wash w e ll and dry In plac e of using soda ash which is ,

a s t rong alkali mild e r alkal in e s al t s such as sodium phosphat e or

,

sodium silicat e may b e us e d .

Ex pe ri m e n t 85 Us e o f So a p
. This m e t hod i s som e wha t .

S imilar t o t h e pr e c e ding e xc e p t t ha t soap is us e d for making t h e

,

b at h al kalin e ; i t i s also suppose d t hat t his mak e s t h e color som e

what fast e r t o washing wi t h soap Dye a sk e in of co t t on yarn i n .

a b at h con t aining 5 p e r c e n t of soap and 2 p e r c e n t of Columbi a

. .

Gre e n ; e n t e r at 1 60 F graduall y bring t o t h e boil a nd d y e a t

°
,
.

t hat t e mp e ra t ur e for o ne half hour ; wash w e ll and dry

-

Sal t canno t b e us e d in t h e bat h as i t pr e cipi t a t e s t h e soap Fo r

,
.

comparison d y e ano t h e r sk e in of co t t on yarn i n a bat h wi t h

2 0 p e r c e n t of sal t and 2
.
p e r c e n t of Columbi a G r e e n In t h e usu al.
 A PPL I CA TI O N OF S U S B TAN TI VE D Y ES TO CO TTO N . 1 51

mann e r ; wash We ll and dry Compar e t he colors ob t ain e d

on t h e s e sk e ins wi t h t he o ne in t h e pr e vious e xp e rim e n t ; also
t e s t t h e m for fas t n e ss t o washing and no t e if t h e m e t hod of dy e ing
i n t h e alk al in e or soap ba t hs has incr e as e d t h e fas t n e ss of t h e

color t o any e x t e n t .

Ex pe ri m e nt 86 Aft e r t r e a tm e n t w i t h Ch r o m e
.
-
This t r e at .
-

m e n t i s for t h e purpos e of incr e asing t h e fast n e ss of c e r t ain sub

s t a n t i v e dy e s t o washing and acids ; i t also d e e p e ns t h e color as ,
i

a r ule t o qui t e a d e gr e e and in som e cas e s caus e s a consid e rabl e

, ,

ch ang e in t h e t on e of t h e color Dye t wo S k e ins of co t t on yarn

.

t o g e t h e r in a ba t h con t aining 2 0 p e r c e n t of common sal t and .

—

2 p e r c e n t of Ch r o m a n i l B rown 2 G ; e n t e r a t 1 6 0 F gradually °
.

rais e t o t h e boil and d y e at t hat t e mp e rat ur e for o ne h alf hour ;

,
-

wash w e ll and s e t o ne of t h e sk e ins asid e for comparison

,

Tak e t h e s e cond sk e in and p ass in t o a b at h con t aining 2 p e r c e n t .

of chrom e ; boil for 1 5 minu t e s t h e n wash w e ll and dry ,

Compar e t h e colors ob t ain e d on e ach of t h e sk e ins and t hus no t e

t h e e ff e c t of t h e af t e r chroming o n t h e color
-
M ak e t e s t s on
.
.

bo t h sk e ins for fas t n e ss t o washing and p e rspirat ion ; also t e s t t h e

colors for t h e ir fas t n e ss t o ligh t .

Ex pe ri m e n t 8 7 Af t e r tr e a tm e n t w i t h B lu e s t o n e
.
-
This t r e a t .

m e n t is usually for t h e purpos e of giving an incr e as e d fas t n e s s

t o ligh t ; t h e color is also g e n e rally consi de rably al t e r e d in t on e

by t h e t re at m e nt f Dye t wo sk e ins of co t t on yarn t og e t h e r in a

b at h con t aining 2 0 p e r c e n t of common sal t and 2 pe r c e n t of
.
-
.

Di amin e B lu e R W ; e n t e r a t 1 6 0 F gradually rais e t o t h e bo il °

,

and d ye at t hat t e mp e rat ur e for o ne half hour ; wash w e ll and s e t -

,

o ne of t h e sk e ins asid e for comparison Pass t h e s e cond

sk e in in t o a fr e sh b at h con t aining 3 p er c e n t of blu e s t on e and .

3 p e r c e n t of
. ac e t ic acid ; work for 1 5 minu t e s a t a t e mp e ra t ur e of
°
1 80 F t h e n wash w e ll and dry Compar e t h e color on
t h e t w o sk e ins and mak e a t e s t on e ach fo r i t s fas t n e ss t o ligh t
,

( 2 6 2 ,

Expe ri m e n t 88 Dy e i ng i n a Co l d B a t h
. M any of t he sub .

s t ant i v e dy e s a re t ak e n up by co t t on from a cold ba t h al mos t

as w e ll as from a ho t bat h and t h e s e b e com e ve ry use ful in

,
1 5 2 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

cas e s wh e re i t is no t d e sirable t o e mploy a v e ry ho t liquor in t he

d ye bat h
-
. Dye fiv e t e st ske ins of co tt on yarn wi t h t h e following
-

dye s t uffs re sp e c t iv e ly in bat hs con t aining 2 0 pe r c e n t of co mmo n .

sal t and 2 pe r c e n t of t he dye s t u ff e n te r cold and dye (wi t hout

.
,

h e at ing ) for t hre e quar te rs hour ; t h e n wash and dry (2 64 2 6 5 2 66 , , ,

2 67 , It is n e c e ssary t o have t h e yarn v e ry w e ll bo i l e d o u t -

for t his m e t hod of dy e ing as o t h e rwise i t will b e diffi cul t t o ob t ain

,

good p e n e t r at ion of the coloring mat t e r in t o t he fibre

-
It is also .

w e ll t o add t o t he dye bat h a sm all amount of T urk e y re d oil in

- -

ord e r t o incre ase t he pe n e t rat ion Use t he following dy e st u ffs :

.

E rika BN . Chrysoph e nin e .

B rillian t O range G . Chicago B lu e 6 B .

( B er .
)
He lio t rop e 2B .

For t he dy e ing of ligh t S h ad e s soap is oft e n add e d t o t he bat h ,

as t his h e lps t he w e t t ing o u t of t he co tt on ; for h e avy shad e s

-
,

b e sid e s Turke y re d oil t h e re may al so b e add e d a small amoun t

-
,

of soda ash t o give a b e t t e r e xhaus t ion of t h e bat h .

Expe ri m e nt 8 9 Sh a di n g Su b s ta n ti ve Dy e s wi t h B asi c Dy e s
. .

Subs t an t ive dy e s ac t as mordan t s t oward basic dye s on which ,

accoun t t he lat t e r may b e e mploy e d for purpos e s of t opping or

S hading t h e form e r According t o t he d e p t h of t he subs t an t ive
.

dy e ing from 5; t o 3 pe r c e n t of basic d ye may b e fixe d wi t h con

,
.
«

s i d e r ab le fas t n e ss t o washing Almost any subst an t ive d y e may

.

b e us e d as t he bo t t om color an d al mos t any basic d y e may b e

,

e mploy e d for t opping Th e dy e ing wi t h t h e subs t an t ive colo r

.

is carri e d o u t in t he usual mann e r whil e t he t opping wi t h t h e

,

basic color is don e in a fre sh cold bat h e i t h e r wi t h or wi t hou t t h e

,

addi t ion of a small am oun t of ac e t ic acid The m e t hod is us e d .

for t h e purpose of giving i ncre ase d d e pt h of color as w e ll as

incre ase d brigh t n e ss ; for t h e subst an t ive colors as a r ul e are , ,

n e i t h e r ve ry int e nse nor ve ry brigh t In som e cas e s t h e fas t n e ss

.

of t he color t o washing and ligh t is al so incr e as e d Dy e fiv e t e s t

m
.

sk e ins of co t t on yarn in t h e usu al ann e r wi t h 2 p e r c e n t of .

Chrysoph e nin e wash w e ll and t o p t he five sk e ins as

1 54 D YE N G AN D I TEX TILE CHEMIS TR Y .

qu e n t ly t h e d ye b at hs are s e ldom compl e t e ly e xhaus t e d e ve n

-

w h e n r e lat ive ly small amoun t s of t h e coloring mat t e r are us e d -

.

Co t t on which has b e e n dy e d wi t h a subs t an t iv e color will al so

usually ble e d or have some of i t s color e x t rac t e d again wh e n
,

boil e d in fre sh wat e r ; and t his e x t rac t ion of color may b e succ e s
s i v e ly r e p e at e d un t il a larg e par t of t h e dy e s t u f
f h as b e e n r e mov e d
from t h e fibr e Again t he amoun t of coloring mat t e r which can
.
,
-

b e t ak e n up by t h e co tt on fibr e app e ars t o b e rat h e r limi t e d on ,

which accoun t v e ry h e avy d e nse S had e s as a rul e c anno t b e

, , ,

ob t ain e d wi t h t h e subs t an t iv e colors on co t t on B y t he addi t ion .

of sal t t o t he dy e b at h t he solubili t y of t he coloring matt e r in t h e

- -

wat e r is l e ss e n e d and cons e qu e n t ly mor e of t he color is forc e d on

,

“ ”
t h e co t t on ; t his condi t ion is al so favor e d by e mploying as shor t
a b at h as possibl e t hat is o ne con t aining a minimum amoun t of
, ,

d y e liquor E i t h e r common sal t (sodium chlorid e ) or glaub e r

.
—

sal t (sodium sulphat e ) may b e use d i n t h e d ye bat h t hough t he -

,

form e r is most ly us e d as i t is anhydrous and do e s no t r e quire

,

s uch a larg e amoun t t o b e add e d In common prac t ic e abou t .

r c e n t of s al t is us e d in t h e b a t h t hough wh e n i t is d e sir e d
20
p e .
,

t o ob t ain h e avy shad e s or t o ge t a b e tt e r d e gr e e of e xhaus t ion

l arg e r amoun t s of s al t may b e us e d e v e n t o as h i gh as 1 0 0 p e r ,

c e n t on t h e w e igh t of t h e co tt on b e ing dy e d If t o o gre at an

. .

amoun t of sal t is add e d t h e r e will b e dange r of som e of t h e d ye

“ ”
s t u ff b e ing pr e cipi t at e d or sal t e d o u t ; t his how e v e r as a rul e , ,

will no t occur un t il abou t 1 pound of sal t p e r gallon of solu t ion

h a s b e e n add e d an amoun t which will h ardly e v e r b e us e d in
,

p rac t ic e . W h e n t h e d y e liquor how e v e r is e mploy e,

d as a s t and ,

ing b at h car e mus t b e h ad t h at in t h e succ e ssive addi t ions of

,

d y e s t u ffs and sal t t h e accumulat ion of t h e lat t e r in t h e bat h

d o e s no t b e com e t o o gr e a t In ord e r t o con t rol t his amoun t t h e
.

d e nsi t y of t he liquor S hould b e d e t e rmin e d wi t h a hydrom e t e r .

F o r l i gh t S had e s as a rul e b u t li t t l e sal t is us e d and as only a

, , ,

sligh t propor t ion of color r e mains in t h e b at h t h e liquors ar e ,

s e ldom k e p t for fur t h e r u se For m e di um shad e s t h e b e st d e nsi t y

.

of t h e d ye liquor is abou t 2 Tw and for dark S had e s from 4 t o°

.
,

6 Tw
°
. In d e t e rmining t h e d e nsi t y of t he liquor wi t h t h e hy d ro m
 A PPL I CA TI O N OF SU S B TAN TI VE D YES TO CO TT O N . 1 55

e te r a small por t ion S hould b e t ak e n from t he v at and allow e d

,

t o cool b e for e b e ing t e s t e d Wh e n dye ing in b at hs con t aining

.

a larg e amoun t of sal t i t is b e s t n o t t o add t h e salt un t il t owards

,

t h e e n d of t h e op e ra t ion and t h e goods aft e r coming from t h e

,

d y e b at h should b e w e ll rins e d in fr e sh wa t e r o t h e rwis e t h e sal t

-
,

may crys t alli z e in t h e mat e ri al and aft e rwards b e mor e di ffi cult t o
r e mov e Incr e as e d e xhaus t ion of t h e d ye b at h may also b e
.
-

ob t ain e d by using vat s h e at e d wi t h clos e d s t e am coils as t h e , ,

in t roduc t ion of liv e s t e am in t o t h e b at h consid e rably dilu t e s i t .

Incr e as e d e xhaust ion is also O b t ain e d by allowing t h e color t o

fe e d on t h e co tt on from a cooling b at h ; t hat is t o say t h e co tt on ,

should no t b e t ak e n from t h e b at h a t a boil b u t t h e s t e am should ,

b e t urn e d o ff and t h e b a t h allow e d t o cool down wi t h t h e co t t on

in i t AS t h e subs t an t ive colors ar e SO solubl e in wat e r and
.

e xhaus t so poorly i t will s e ldom occur t hat t h e y wi ll d y e un e v e nly ;

,

if such how e v e r do e s happ e n t h e y may b e e asily l e ve ll e d by

, , ,

con t inu e d working in a boiling bat h .

M any of t h e subs t an t iv e dy e s app e ar t o work som e wh at b e tt e r

wh e n t h e b at h is mad e sligh t ly alkalin e by t h e addi t ion O f sod a
ash sodium phosphat e sodium Silicat e borax soap e t c Jus t what
, , , , ,
.

i s t h e ac t ion of t h e alk al i in t his cas e is unc e r t ain ; i t prob ably aids

in t h e p e n e t rat ion of t h e coloring mat t e r in t o t h e fibr e For ligh t
-
.

shad e s i t is som e t im e s b e n e fici al t o add Turk e y re d oil t o t h e bat h -

.

In pr e paring t h e dy e ba t h in prac t ic e i t is b e s t t o firs t add t h e

-
,

alkali (if such is us e d ) t h e n t h e color solu t ion and finally t h e s al t

, ,
.

Th e subs t an t ive colors S houl d b e dissolve d in boiling wa t e r ,

and if poss i bl e wat e r from cond e ns e d s t e am S hould b e us e d If

,
.

t h e wa t e r t o b e us e d for dissolving t h e dy e s t u ff is c al car e ous i t is ,

b e s t t o firs t boil t h e wat e r up wi t h an amoun t of soda ash e q u i v a

l e n t t o t h e w e igh t of t h e dy e st uff t o b e dissolve d Aft e r dis .

solving t h e color t h e solu t ion S hould b e s t rain e d t hrough a pi e c e

,

of co t t on clo t h or fine Si e v e Wh e n t h e dy e s t u ff is add e d in a n

.

undissolve d condi t ion dir e c t ly t o t h e d ye b at h som e soda a s h —

,

S hould firs t b e add e d t h e b a t h boil e d up

,
and t h e n t he dy e s t u ff ,

a dd e d af t e r which t h e sal t i s add e d

,
.

Wh e re hard wat e r must b e use d in dye ing subs t an t ive colors

1 56 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

it should al ways first b e corr e c t e d by t r e at m e n t w i t h a sui t able

amoun t of soda ash Wi t h c e r t ain colors wh i ch are e sp e ci ally
.

s e nsi t iv e t o h ard wa t e r i t is r e comm e nd e d t o d y e wi t h addi t ion

,

of 2 t o 4 p e r c e n t of acid po t assium oxal at e t h e amoun t d e p e nding

.
,

on t h e h ardn e ss of t h e wa t e r and t h e qu an t i t y of dy e st u ff t o b e
us e d ; i t S hould b e no t e d ~t h at an e xc e ss of t h e oxal at e is injurious ,

causing t h e color t o e xhaust badly and giving dull S had e s .

It is a mis t ak e t o suppos e t hat t h e subs t an t iv e dy e s r e quir e a

vigorously bo i ling b at h for dy e ing ; wh i le i t is t ru e t hat a bo i ling
b at h will give a b e tt e r p e n e t rat ion of color i t is also a fac t t ha t
,

t h e amoun t of color absorb e d by t h e co t t on i s gr e a t e r w h e n t h e

t e mp e ra t ur e of t h e ba t h is und e r t h e boil and i t h as al r e ady b e e n

,

poin t e d o u t t hat a b e tt e r d e gre e of e xhaus t ion is ob t ain e d by

allowing t h e goods t o r e main for som e t ime in t h e cooling b at h .

Wh e n d e sirable mos t of t h e subs t ant ive colors may b e dy e d at

,

mod e rat e t e mp e rat ur e s and e ve n cold In such cas e s i t is b e s t

,
.

t o add t o t h e b a t h som e soap or Turk e y r e d oil in ord e r t o ob t ain

-

b e t t e r p e n e t rat ion of t h e coloring mat t e r Wh e n dy e ing in a cold

-
.

b at h i t is som e t im e s r e comm e nd e d t o mix t h e dy e s t u ff firs t wi t h

i t s own w e igh t of c aus t ic soda solu t ion ( 7 8 t h e n d i s s o lv e i n
° f

a s u fli c i e nt quan t i t y of h o t wat e r and add t his solu t ion t o t h e d ye

,

b at h along wi t h a li t t l e soap .

F o r dy e ing lig h t S had e s for e ach 1 00 pounds of co tt on yarn

abou t 2 0 0 gallons of wat e r should b e use d whil e for d ark shad e s
,

t h e amoun t of wa t e r should b e limi t e d t o abou t 1 3 0 g allons For

.

dark S had e s e sp e ci ally wh e r e only o ne dy e s t u ff is us e d in t he

,

color t h e y arn can usually b e e n t e r e d at t h e boil ; for ligh t e r

,

s h ad e s and wh e r e s e v e ral dy e s may b e us e d in combinat ion i t i s

, ,

b e st t o e n t e r t h e co t t on a t 1 40 t o 1 60 F and gradually rais e t o

°

t h e boil .If any t e nd e ncy t owards un e v e nn e ss is obs e rv e d i t i s ,

b e s t t o add only a p ar t of t h e sal t t o t h e b at h at firs t and re s e rv e

t h e r e s t t o b e add e d n e ar t h e e nd of t h e dy e ing Y arn whic h has
.

b e e n dy e d i n lig h t S h ad e s is no t g e n e rally rins e d aft e r dy e ing

unle ss alkali h as b e e n us e d in t h e b at h; b u t wh e r e h e avy S had e s
a r e ob t ai n e d t h e yarn S hould always b e w e ll rins e d in ord e r t o

r e move all e xc e ss of r e sidual d ye liquor and salt solu t ion .

 1 58 D YE N G AN D I TEX TILE CH EII
IIS TR Y .

37 2 . Wh a t i s t he g e n e ra l fa st ne ss O f t h e su b s t a nt i v e d y e s o n co t to n ? Wh at
i s the ir chi ef d e fe ct ?
373 k pl wh n t h l b t i d wi th C ng R d i t t d
. Wha t ta es a ce e e co o r o a ne o o e s re a e

wi th i d ? And b q tly t t d wi th d h ?
ac su se uen re a e so a as

374 W t h dy i g w i th C
. as g R d f t t bl di g d t th w hi g
e e n o n o e as o ee n an o e as n

t t?es H ww th t t m d ?
o e re e se es s a e

375 Wh t d y . n id t h i nfl
a o n f
o u co yi g m nt f lt i n t h
s er e ue ce o var n a o u s o sa e

b t h i n d y i ng b t t i
a el sutt ?s an ve co o rs o n co o n

3 7 6 Wh y i . d h d t t im s so i n d y i ng
a as b t ti l
u se ? Wh t a es e su s an ve co o r s a

o th lk li
er a i pl f d a es h m y b
n d?
a ce o so a as a e use

377 Wh y i i t . mm d d t t i m s t dd
re co p t t h dy b th with
en e a es o a so a o e e- a

su b t ti s an l ? H w m h ve co o rs pi d? C o lt b d i uc h so a s u se an sa e u se n suc a

b t h nd w h y ?
a ,
a

3 7 8 Wh t i t h p p . f ft
a t s t i ng e t in b t ti
u r o se o l w i th a e r - re a ce r a su s an v e co o rs

c h m ? Wh t ff t h
ro e th p a n th t n
e ec f th l ?
as e ro ce s s o e o e o e co o r

379 H w i t h ft t
. t m nt w i t h h m
o s e a i d t?
e r - reaWh t d i ff n e c ro e ca rr e o u a e re ce

di d y find i t h f t n
o u t w h i ng p
n e pi t i n d li ght b tw n t h
as e ss o as , e rs ra o ,
an e ee e

t t d
rea e d th t t d d y i ng ?
an H w d id y
e u n re a e d t th t t ? e s o o u co n uc e se es s

38 Wh t i t h p p
0 . af ft t
s ti g e m b t ti
ur o se l w ith o a e r- rea n so e su s an ve co o rs

bl t ? H w i th p
u e s o ne ndo t d? s Wh t ff t h t h t t m nt
e ro ce ss co uc e a e ec as e re a e

o n th t f th
e l ? Di d y
o ne o fin d m
e co o r
y k d diff i th f t o u an ar e e re n ce n e a s ne ss

t li gh t f t h t w
o m pl t t d ?
o e o sa es es e

38 C n 1 b t nt i d y b ppli d t tt i n
. a su s a ve ld b t h ? H w i
es e a e o co o n a co a o s

thi d s ? Wh y i T k y
o ne d i l dd d s d wh y h ld t h y n b w ll
ur e -
re o a e an s o u e ar e e

b il d t ?
o e o u

38 F d y i ng li gh t h d i n
2 . o r e ld b t h w h t ddi t i s m y b m d t
a es a co a a a o n a e a e o

t h b th ?
e Fa h y h d w h t ddi t i n o r e av m d ? S a es a a o s a re a e

3 83 Wh t l d t h dy t ff E i gi ? Wh t l d Ch y ph
. a co o r o es e es u r ca ve a co o r o es r so

e ni gi ?
ne ve

3 84 H wd . b t t i dy o t t w d b i dy
o su s an ? Wh t i m
ve t by e s ac o ar s as c es a s ean

t pp i g
”
o l ? n a co o r

3 85 H w m h b i . lo m y b fi d uc b t ti dy i g ? H W
a s c co o r a e xe o n a su s an ve e n O

i t h t pp i g w i t h t h b i
s e O l
n i d t? e as c co o r ca rr e o u

3 86 Wh t i t h p p
. f t pp i g
a s b t nt i dy i ng wi t h b i l
e ur o se o o n a su s a ve e a a s c co o r

D ib t h
e s cr lt y e b t i d n t ppi g Ch y ph ni n wi th i b i
e re su s o u o a ne o o n r so e e var o us as c

co lo rs .

3 87 . What i s the ef
fe ct o f to ppi ng Chi g ca o Blu e w i t h M t h yl n e e e B lu e ? Of
to ppi g Di n a m i ne Sca rle t w ith Rh o dam i ne ?
3 88 . Wh e n we re t he su b t tis an ve d y fi es r st i nt ro du ce d a nd by wh o m Wh at
wa s t h e fi r st dye di sco ve re d ?
3 89 . Wh a t Is t h e d i st i n u i sh i ng g ch ara ct e ri st i c o f th e su b s t a nt i ve d y e s as a

class ? To wh t fib a re a re t he y ch i e fly ppli a ed ?
 A PPL I CA TI O N OF S U S B TAN TI VE D Y ES TO CO TTO N . 1 59

390 wh t p t b t n
. Fro m a are n su s a ce are mo s t o f t he su b st ant i ve dye s derived ?
B y wh t h mi l g ap th y hc e ca ro u a re e c aract e ri z e d ?
39 Wh t i m nt by
1 . t t a s ea a
“
e raz o
”
co m p nd ?
o u By a d i a m i ne
39 I th 2 t .f th dy i g p
s e na u re o e e n ro ce s s wi th b su st a nt i v e co lo rs w e ll u nder

s to o d? Ho w d o e s i t d iffe r fro m t h a t o f t he aci d a nd b a si c d y es ?

39 3 . Wha t m ay b e s a i d as t o t h e so lu i li t b y o f the su b s t a nti v e d y es ? Ho w

do e s t h i s afl e ct t heir e xh a u s t i o n fro m t h e d ye a t h ? Wh y do -
b t he i r co lo r s

u s u a ll y bl ee d fro m co t to n wh en p
st ee e d o r o ile d i n b
ater ? w
39 4 . Ca n ver y h e av y sh a d e s be O bt a i ne d o n co tt o n w i th th e su b st ant i v e

d y es ? Wh y ?
395 . Wha t co ndi t i o ns fav o r a b e tter de g re e o f e xh au st i o n o f the su b st a nt i v e

d ye -
b at h ?
39 6 . Wha t i s t he dan g er o f a dd in gt o o g r e a t a n a m o u nt o f Salt t o t h e b at h

wi th b su st ant i v e co lo rs ? Wh a t i s t h e m a xi m u m a m o u nt o f salt w hi ch Sh o u ld

e ver be a dde d ?
39 7 . In u si n g s t a nd i n gb aths with b su s t a nt i v e d y es ho w i s t he co n ce nt ra t i o n

o f t h e li q u o r co nt ro lle d ? Wh at sh o u ld b e t h e d e n si t y fo r li h t g sh a d e s ; fo r
h e av y Sh a d e s ?
398 . Wh e n dy i ng i n b t h
e a s co nt a i ni n g a lar g e a m o u nt o f salt wh y sh o u ld

t he g oo d s b e we ll w h d i m m
as e e di a t e l y a ft e r co mi n gf ro m the b at h ?
399 . In w h a t m a nne r sho u ld dye -
v ats b e h e a t e d if i t i s d e si re d t o k p th ee e

li q u o r co nce n t ra t e d ?
4 00 . Wh a t i s t h e e ffe ct o f a llo wi ng t h e co t to n to re m a i n i n t he co o li n gb at h

wh en d y i g with th b
e n e su st a nt i v e co lo r s ?
40 1 A th re b t ti e su s an lo rs li a le t o d ye
ve co b u ne ve nl y ? Why ? If u nev e n ,
h o w m a y t h e co lo r b e le ve lle d ?
402 Wh a t i s t h e o
. bj e ct o fd y i g m b t nt i
e n so l i
e su s a ve co o r s n a n a l ali ne k
b at h ? Wh at k
a l ali e s m ay b e e m pl y d ? Wh t i t h p b b l
o e a s e ro a e a ct i o n o f the
k
a l ali ?
403 . Wh e n d y i ng b
e su s t a nt i ve c o lo r s with a n a l ali ne k b ath in wh a t o r de r

Sh o u ld the v a ri o u s a ddi t i o n s t o t he b ath b e ma d e ?

40 4 y i g li gh t h d w i th t h b t nt i
. In d e n l w h t d di t i n t t h
S a es e su s a v e co o rs a a o o e

b th i b n fi i l ?
a s e e c a

4 5 I w h t m nn
0 . n h ld t h a b t nt i al b di l d ? Sh ld
er s o u e su s a ve co o r s e s so ve o u

h d w t
ar b mpl y d f t hi p p
a er e e ? o e o r s ur o se

4 6 Wh t i m
0 . t bya l s w t ? H w m y t hi w t b
ean ca ca re o u s a er o a s a er e

t d f
co rre c e w i th t h b t nt i d y ?
o r u se e su s a ve es

4 7 Wh n b t nt i
0 . el dd d d i
su t ly t t h dy b t h h w h
s a ld
v e co o rs a r e a e re c o e e -
a o s o u

th p p
e t i n f th b t h b
re a ra o ff t d ? o e a e e ec e

4 8 0S m . b t nt i dy
o e su y S n i tiv t h d w t ; wh t ddit i n
s a ve e s a re v e r e s e o ar a er a a o

h ld b m d t t h d y b t h i n
S o u e a h
e o E pl i n h w t h i w ill n t li
e e- a su c a ca se x a o s e u ra ze

t h h dn
e ar f th w t e ss o Why i n f th
e h mi l d t i m nt l ?
a er . s a e xce ss o e c e ca e r e a
1 60 D YE N G AN D I TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

409 . Do su b st a nt i v e co lo rs re q u i re a vi g o ro u s b o i li n g in d y ing ? Wh
e at

p p ur o se do e s th e b o ili n g fe ct
ef ? Un de r wh a t co nd i t i o ns i s the g
re a t es t a m o u nt

o f co lo r a b b
so r e d ?

41 0 . May su b s ta nti ve co lo r s be d y ed in a co ld b at h ? Wh at a d di t i o ns to
t he b a t h s h o u ld b e ma de a nd fo r wh t p p
a u r o se ?
41 1 . Wh at me th o d i s re co mm ende d fo r di sso lv i n g th e d y e s t uff wh e n u si n g
su b st a n t i v e co lo rs in a co ld b
a th ?
41 2 . In d y i g ligh t
e n Sh ad e s w i th b t su s an ti ve co lo rs h o w m an yg allo ns o f
w t h ld b
a er s d f
o u e u se tt ? H w m y g ll
o r 1 00 wh n p d f
o un s o co o n o an a o ns e

d y i ng d k h d ?
e ar s a es

4 3 1Wh n dy i ng h vy h d w i th i gl b t nti dy n t t n t
. e e ea S a es a s n e su s a ve e o co o a

wh t t m p t m y t h g d b nt d i n t h b t h ? Wh t t m p t
a e e ra u r e a e oo s e e e re e a a e e ra u r e

i b t wh
s es li gh t h d en m p nd s l a b i ng d y d ?
e s o r co o u co o r s a re e e

4 4 1If i n d y i ng
. b t ti l
e th h dsu m p n v n wh t i t h
s an v e co o rs e S a e s co e u u e e a s e

b t p
es d t
ro ce d pt t
u reb t i n l el l ?
o a o o o a ev co o rs

4 5 1Aft . t t n i d y d w i th
e r co o b t nti l s h ld i t b w h d ?
e su s a ve co o rs S o u e as e

Und wh at er ndi t i ns may t h w

co h i ng b di p n d w i t h ?
o e as e s e se
1 62 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

t ion and also t o mak e t h e color fas t e r t o fulli ng Dy e a sk e in of .

woole n yarn in a bat h con t aining 5 p e r c e n t of ammonium ac e t a t e .

and 3 p e r c e n t of Di amin e G r e e n G ; e n t e r a t 1 40 F gradually

.
°

rai s e t o t h e boil and d y e at t hat t e mp e rat ur e for o ne h al f hour

,
-
.

Wash and dry Th e ammonium ac e t at e on boiling , ,

d e compos e s in t o ammoni a (which is volat ili z e d ) and fr e e ac e t i c

acid and t his no doub t h e lps in t h e dy e ing of t h e wool Ammo
,
.

nium ac e t at e may b e r e adily pr e par e d by mixing ammon i a wat e r

and ac e t i c acid in t h e following proport ions : 3 2 par t s of s t rong
ammoni a wat e r and 50 par t s of ac e t ic acid s p gr ) wh i ch . .

will giv e a solu t ion con t aining 2 5 par t s of ammonium ac e t at e .

Di amin e G r e e n giv e s a color on wool which h as good fas t n e ss t o

washing .

Ex pe ri m e n t 9 2 Dy e i n g i n a Sli gh tly Aci d B a t h

. Some of t h e .

subs t an t ive dy e s may b e appli e d t o wool in sligh t ly acid bat hs

in much t h e sam e mann e r as t h e acid dy e s This me t hod i s .

e sp e cially us e ful for t h e produc t ion of t wo color e ff e c t s on mix t ur e s

-

con t aining wool and co t t on Dy e a sk e in of wool e n yarn in a

.

b at h con t aining 2 0 p e r c e n t of glau b e r salt 4 p e r c e n t of ac e t ic

.
,
.

ac i d and 2 p e r c e n t of Chrysoph e nin e ; e n t e r at 1 40 F gradu al ly

,
.
°
.

rais e t o t h e boil and d ye at t hat t e mp e rat ur e for o ne h alf hour ;

,
-

wash and dry Ac e t ic acid i s most ly use d in t hi s conn e c

t ion as sulphuric acid is t o o s t rong a nd is li abl e t o inj ur e t h e
,

color and w h e r e co t t on is pre s e n t t h e r e is dang e r of t h e latt e r

,

fibr e b e ing t e nd e r e d by t h e incompl e t e r e moval of t h e acid ,

wh e r e as ac e t ic acid b e ing volat i l e i s e asily r e move d Ch ry so ph

, ,
.

e n i ne giv e s a good y e llow color on wool which is e xc e e dingly

fas t t o ligh t ; t o Show t his e xpose a sampl e t o ligh t for 3 0 d ays

Ex pe ri m e n t 9 3 . Sh owi ng t h e Appli c a ti on o f Su b s t an ti ve Dy e s
o n Uni on Ma t e ri al Dy e a sk e in of union yarn (con t aining wool
.

and co t t on t hr e ads t wist e d t og e t h e r ) in a b at h con t aining 2 0 p e r

c e n t of glau b e r s alt 4 p e r c e n t of ac e t ic acid and 2 pe r c e n t of
.
,
.
, .

Chrysoph e nin e ; e n t e r at 1 40 F gradually rais e t o t h e boil and

°
.
, ,

d y e at t hat t e mp e rat ur e for o ne h alf h Ou r ; wash w e ll and dry

‘

It will b e found t hat bo t h fibr e s will b e dy e d abou t a

 SU SB TAN TI VE D YES O N WO O L AN D S ILK . 1 63

uniform color Dye a s e cond sk e in of union yarn in a b at h con

.

t aining 2 0 p e r c e n t of gla u b e rs alt 4 p e r c e n t of ac e t ic acid 2 p e r

.
,
.
,

c e n t of Chrysoph e nin e and 1 p e r c e n t of Acid Viol e t Dy e In

. . .

t h e usual mann e r wash w e ll and dry

,
It will b e found
,

in t his cas e t hat t h e wool has b e e n dy e d wi t h bo t h t h e y e llow and

viol e t colors giving a r e sul t an t olive gr e e n wh e r e as t h e co t t on
, ,

h as b e e n dy e d wi t h t he y e llow and h as only b e e n slight ly t in t e d

wi t h t h e viol e t so t hat a t wo color e ff e c t has b ee n ob t ain e d
,
—
.

Ex pe ri m e n t 9 4 Aft e r t r e a tm e n t wi t h Ch rom e
.
-
This t r e a t .

m e n t is for t h e purpose of incr e asing t h e fas t n e ss of t h e color

t o washing and ligh t At t h e sam e t im e i t al so c aus e s an incr e as e
.

in t h e d e p t h of t h e color Dy e t w o t e s t sk e ins of wool e n yarn in

.
-

a b at h con t aining 2 0 p e r c e n t of glau b e r s alt 1 0 p e r c e n t of ammo

.
,
.

nium ac e t at e and 3 pe r c e n t of Di amin e F as t R e d F ; e n t e r a t 1 40

,
.
°

F gradually rais e t o t h e boil and dy e a t t h at t e mp e rat ur e for o ne

,

h alf hour R e move o ne of t h e sk e ins wash and dry

.
, ,

Add t o t h e d y e b at h 2 p e r c e n t of chrom e r e e n t e r t h e s e cond

— .
,

sk e in and con t inu e boiling for 20 minu t e s ; t h e n wash and dry

Compar e t h e colors O b t ain e d on t h e s e t w o sampl e s and ,

t e s t e ach sk e in for i t s fas t n e ss t o washing (2 8 9 ,

Ex pe ri m e n t 9 5 Af t e r t r e a tm e n t wi t h Ch rom i um Fl u ori de
.
-
.

This sal t is som e t im e s subs t i t u t e d for chrom e It ac t s in much .

t h e sam e mann e r by incr e asing t h e fas t n e ss of c e r t ain colors t o

,

ligh t and washing and al so d e e p e ning t h e S had e As i t is no t a

,
.

s t rong oxidi z ing ag e n t lik e chrom e i t may b e us e d a t t im e s wh e r e ,

t h e lat t e r canno t .Dy e t wo t e s t sk e ins of wool e n yarn in a b a t h

-

con t aining 2 0 p e r c e n t of glau b e r s alt and 3 p e r c e n t of Columbi a

. .

G r e e n ; e n t e r a t 1 40 F gradually rais e t o t h e boil and d y e a t

°
.
, ,

t ha t t e mp e ra t ur e for o n e half hour R e move o n e of t h e sk e ins

-
.
,

and wash and dry Add t o t h e d y e b at h 3 p e r c e n t of c h ro -

.

mium fluorid e r e e n t e r t h e s e cond sk e in and boil for 2 0 minu t e s

,

long e r ; t h e n wash and dry Comp ar e t h e t wo sk e ins wi t h

r e sp e c t t o t h e ir color and mak e t e st s on e ach t o d e t e rmin e t h e
fas t n e ss t o washing (2 9 3 ,

Ex pe ri m e n t 9 6 Exam pl e of a Su b s t a n ti v e Dy e no t Colori n g
.

Wo ol . Th e r e are a fe w of t h e subs t an t iv e dy e s which are no t

1 64 D YE N G AN D I TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

t ak e n up by t h e wool fibr e e sp e ci ally if t h e b at h is at a compara ,

t i v e ly low t e mp e ra t ur e and is Sligh t ly alkalin e Dy e a t e s t sk e in .

-

of wool e n yarn in a bat h con t aining 2 0 p e r c e n t of glau b e rs alt .

,

1 p e r c e nt of soda ash
. and 2
p e r c e n t of M ikado , Y e llow ; .

°
e n t e r a t 1 00 F gradually rais e t o 1 2 0 F and d y e at t hat
.
,
°

t e mp e ra t ur e for o ne half hour ; t h e n wash w e ll and dry

-

It will b e found t hat t h e wool is hardly t in t e d by t his

color O n t his accoun t such dy e s are v e ry us e ful for t h e
.
,

dy e ing of union mat e rials wh e r e i t is d e sirabl e t o l e av e t he wool

undy e d .

Ex pe ri m e n t 9 7 Ge ne r al Me t h o d o f Applyi n g Su b s t an ti v e Dy e s
.

t o Silk This fibre lik e wool will d ye v e ry r e adily wi t h many

.
, ,

of t h e subs t an t ive colors yi e lding shad e s which are fas t t o washing

,

and wa t e r and in m a ny cas e s fas t t o ligh t Dye a sk e in of Silk .

in a b at h con t aining 1 0 p e r c e n t of soap (or a boil e d o ff liquor .

-

b at h may b e e mploy e d wh e r e t his is availabl e ) and 3 pe r c e n t of .

B e n z o Fas t Scarl e t ; e n t e r a t 1 40 F gradually rais e t o t h e boil °

.
, ,

and dy e at t hat t e mp e rat ur e for o ne h al f hour Wash w e ll and dry -

.

Silk may also b e dy e d in a sligh t ly acid ba t h as wi t h ,

wool Dy e a sk e in of S i lk in a bat h con t aining 3 pe r c e n t of

. .

Chrysoph e nin e 1 0 p e r c e n t of glau b e r salt and 4 p e r c e n t of ac e t ic

,
.
,
.

acid ; e n t e r a t 1 40 F bring t o 1 80 F and d y e a t t hat t e mp e ra

° °
.
,

t ur e for o ne half hour Wash w e ll and dry

-
. As wi t h
wool S ilk dy e d wi t h t he subst an t ive colors may b e aft e r t r e at e d
,
-

wi t h chrome e t c in ord e r t o ob t ain fas t e r shad e s The sub

,
.
,
.

st nt i ve colors ar e al so v e ry us e f u l in t h e dy e ing of h alf silk

a
-

( silk and co tt on fabrics ) bo t h for singl e colors and for

,
t h e produc
t ion of t wo color e ff e c t s in t h e sam e mann e r as alr e ady d e scrib e d
-
,

und e r t h e ir applicat ion t o wool .

NOTES .

1 . r s o n Wo o l
Th e Su b s t anti v e Co loTh e s e dy e s have gain e d .

consid e rabl e favor in various branch e s O f wool dy e ing e sp e cially ,

for kni t t ing yarns fast t o washing card e d wool and wors t e d yarns ,

fast t o m i lling shoddy yarns loos e wool and al so for t h e dy e ing

, , ,

of slubbing and yarns in machin e s For t he latt e r t h e y a re .

1 66 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

fr e e al kali (w h i c h is g e n e rally pr e s e n t i n soft soap ) S hould n e v e r

b e pr e s e n t i n t h e soap us e d und e r t h e s e cir cums t anc e s .

2
. Th e Su b s ta n ti v e Co lor s on Silk .AS t h e majori t y of t h e s e
colors may b e dy e d on S ilk giving shad e s of cons i d e rabl e fas t n e ss
,

t o washing and wat e r as w e ll as t o ligh t t h e y a re of c o n s i d,

e ra b le impor t anc e in t h i s branch of dy e ing Th e y ar e al so us e ful

.

for such goods t h at may b e subj e c t ed t o s e v e r e t r e at m e n t wi t h alka

li e s such as fancy silk t h r e ads runn i ng t hr oug h co tt on or wool e n
,

fabrics Th e subs t an t iv e colors are b e s t dy e d on Si lk wi t h t h e

.

add i t ion of glau b e rs al t and ac e t ic acid or in a b at h con t aining

,

bo i l e d O ff liquor If t h e dy e ing is don e w i t hou t t h e lat t e r add

-
.
,

t o t h e b a t h for pal e S had e s abou t 5 p e r c e n t and for h e avy shad e s

.

abou t 1 0 p e r c e n t of glau b e rs al t and only a sm al l quan t i t y (from

.
,

1 to 4
p e r c e n.t ) of ac e t ic acid a t t h e b e ginning of t h e op e ra t ion -
.

If t he color go e s on t h e fibr e t o o Slowly a li tt l e mor e ac e t ic acid

,

may b e gradually add e d during t h e dy e ing proc e ss This pre .

c au t ion is n e c e ssary b e caus e i t is d i ffic ul t t o ob t ain l e v e l colors

if t h e b at h i s t o o acid at t he b e ginning For t h e sam e r e ason i t
.

is also impor t an t no t t o s t ar t t h e dy e ing at t o o high a t e mp e rat ur e .

It is b e s t t o comm e nc e a t 1 2 0 F and slowly rais e t o t h e boil

°
. .

For shading le t t h e bat h cool t o 1 40 t o 1 60 F t h e n add t he

° °

n e c e ssary color solu t ion and gradually h e at up again Wh e n .

dy e ing ligh t colors t h e b at hs e xhaus t as a rul e wi t h t h e addi t ion

, ,

of glau b e r s alt only or wi t h a v e ry li t t l e ac e t i c acid add e d F o r

,
.

h e avy S had e s t h e addi t ion of 2 t o 1 0 p e r c e n t of ac e t ic acid is ne c e s

.

sar y Wh e n dy e ing in a b at h con t aining boil e d O ff liquor for

.
-
,

ligh t shad e s t h e liquor n e e d only b e sligh t ly acid b u t for h e avy ,

S had e s t h e acid i t y S hould b e gr e a t e r Th e brigh t e ning aft e r

.

dy e ing may b e don e wi t h e i t h e r ac e t ic or sulphuric acid and t h e ,

dy e ings may b e shad e d in t his bat h in any d e sire d mann e r Th e .

fas t n e ss of t h e subs t an t ive colors on S ilk t o acids al kali e s s t oving , , ,

and ligh t corr e sponds in g e n e r al t o t hat which t h e y poss e ss

wh e n dy e d on wool .
 SU S B TAN TI VE D Y ES ON WO OL AN D S ILK . 1 67

S A MP LES .

Di a mi ne Scarle t o n o o l ; e ne ra l m e t h o d fo r d w g y i ng
e .

Aci d t e st o n Di a m i ne Scarle t .

g
Fu lli n t e st o n Di a m i ne Sca rle t .

Sho w i ng f mm i m
u se o t t w i t h Di mi n G
a n
o n u ace a e a e ree .

Ch y ph ni n d y d i n li gh tly
r so e e id b th e s ac a .

Li gh t t t n Ch y ph ni n
es o r so e e .

Uni n y n d y d w i t h Ch y ph ni n
o ar e r so e e .

U i n y n d y d w i t h Ch y p h i
n o ar e nd A i d V i l t r so e n ne a c o e .

Di m i n F t R d b f
a e as t tm t w it h h m
e e o re re a en c ro e .

D i mi
a F t R d ft
ne t
as t m nt w i t h h m
e a er re a e C ro e .

U t t d d y i ng t t d t w h i g
n re a e e es e o as n .

Ch m d d y i ng t t d t w h i g
ro e e es e o as n .

C l mb i G
o u n b f
a t t m nt w i t h h m i m fl
ree e o re id re a e c ro u uo r e .

C l mb i G
o u n ft
a t t m nt w i t h h mi m fl
re e a id
er re a e c ro u uo r e .

U t t d dy i ng t t d t w h i g
n re a e e es e o as n .

T t d d y i n g t t d t w h i ng
re a e e es e o as .

Sh w i g Mi k d Y ll w d
o n n t dy w
a o l e o o es o e oo .

Silk d y d w i t h B n
e F t S l t in p b th
e zo as ca r e so a a .

Ch y ph ni n
r so n i lk ; gl
e b lt nd
e o ti i d b th
s au e rsa a a ce c ac a .

Q U IZ I4 .

41 6 . Wh t i t h g n l m th d f d y i ng w l w i t h t h b t nt iv l
a s e e e ra e o o e oo e su s a e co o rs

Are t h e se dy d t y
e s u se t n t n w l ?
o D t h y yi ld f t l ?
an ex e o oo o e e as co o rs

41 7 . Wh t i t h p p
a s f th eddi t i n f lt t t h d y b t h w i t h
ur o se o e a o o sa o e e- a su b

s t a n t i ve co o r s o
l n w l ? Wh t lt m y b
o o d? a sa s a e u se

41 8 . D th
O b t nt i d y n w l h w t nd n y t n n h d
e su s a ve es o o o S o a e e c o u eve S a es ?
Wh y ?
41 9 . Ho w do the co lo r s wi t h t h e su b s t an t i ve d y es o n w o o l co m p a re wi th
t he aci d a n d b asi c d y es as t b i gh t n
o r e ss a n d de th p o f co lo r ?
420 . Ho w do e s Di am i ne Sca rle t d iffe r fro m Co n o Re d h e n g w t e st e d with
a ci d ? g
Is t h i s co lo r fa st t o full i n ? Ho w i s t h i s t e st co nd u ct e d ?
42 I wh t p p i
Fo r a u r o se s a mmo ni u m a ce t a t e a dde d to t he b ath wh n d y ing
e e

su b t nt i
s a l w l?
v e co o r s o n oo Give t h e m e t h o d o fd y i ng w h
e e n us i ng t hi lt s sa .

4 22 Wh t i p b bly f
. a s ro a o rm e d wh en th e a mm o ni u m a ce t a t e is b il d i n th
o e e

d y b th ?
e- a

42 3 . Ho w may t he so lu t i o n o f amm o ni um a ce t at e be p p re are d ? Ho w

wo uld yo u re p p are o ne li t re o fa so lu t i o n o f a m mo ni u m a ce t a t e so t h at 1 0 cc .

wo uld co nt a i n 10 pe r ce nt . o f t he s a lt o n 5 g r am s ?

42 4 . Ho w w o u ld yo u p p re are a s o lu t i o n o f a mmo ni um ace t at e SO t hat o ne

quart w o uld be e qui vale nt to 1 pe r ce nt . o n 10 p o u nd s o f w oo l? So t h at o ne

li t re w o uld be e qui valent to 1 pe r ce nt . o n 10 k il o s?

 1 68 D YE N G AN D I TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

42 5 . pplyi g b t t i
Gi v e t h e m e t h o d l t w l i li gh t ly
o f a n su s an v e co o rs o o o n a s

ac id b th Wh t i d h ld b mpl y d nd why ?
a . a ac S o u e e o e a

4 6 Wh t l d
2 . Ch y ph ia gi n w l d wh t w ld y
co o r o es r so e n ne ve o oo ,
an a o u o u

sa y t i t fas t n t loi g h t ?s as e ss o

4 7 Wh t i m nt by
2 . ai m t i l ? Wh t
s ea lt i b t in d wh n “
un o n a er a a re su s o a e e

t hi i d y d w i t h Ch y ph
s s e i ? Wh t k i d f dy b t h i
r so m pl y d ? e n ne a n o e- a s e o e

4 8 If i n m t i l i dy d i
2 . un o i d b t h w i t h Ch y p h ni
a er a d A id
s e n an ac a r so e ne a n c

Vi l t w h t w ill b t h
o e a lt ? e e re s u

4 9 Wh t i t h p p
2 . af ft t s ti g b t t i d y n w l wi th
e ur o se o a e r - re a n su s an ve es o o o

c h m ? H w i th p
ro e o d t d? s e ro ce ss c o n uc e

43 H wd 0 th t
. t m nt w i t h h m
o o es ff t t h t e f Di m i
re a F t e c ro e a ec e o ne o a ne as

R d ? C mp
e t h t t t w hi g f t h t
o a re t d
e d nt t d
es s m pl o as n o e rea e an u re a e sa es .

43 H w i th 1 . ft t o t m t withs h mi m fl
e a id n b t ti
e r- re a en c ro u uo r e o su s an ve

l
co o rs co n d t d ? Wh t i fl n uc e d it h th l ? H w d
a nit ue ce o es av e o n e co o r o o es

d i ffe r i n i t s a ct i o n fro m ch ro me ?
43 2 Co m p a re t he re s ult s o f t h e t e st s t o w a sh i n g o f t he sa m pl e s Of Co lu m i a b
G re e n t re a t e d wit h ch ro mi u m fl u o ri d e a nd un t re a t e d .

433 . G i ve a n e xa m pl e o f a su b s t a n t i ve d ye whi ch do e s no t co lo r w o o l .

Wh at co n di t i o ns a re m o s t fa vo ra bl e fo r a m i ni m u m a m o u nt o f co lo r o n t he
w o o l? In wh a t co nne ct i o n w o u ld s u ch d y es be u se ful ?

434 . May the su b s t a nt i v e d y es be sa t i s fa ct o ri l y ppli

a ed to Sil k ,
a nd a re t he
co lo rs fa st ?
435 . Ho w a re b
t h e s u st ant i v e d y ppli d t i lk ? G i
es a e o s ve t wo m e t ho ds .

436 . Ho w m ay fa st e r Sh a de s o n S i lk w i t h t h b t nt i e su s a v e co lo rs be o bt in d
a e

Wh a t i s m e an t by h alf s il -
k ,
and w hy th b t ti
a re e su s an ve co lo rs esp i lly
ec a

u se fu l o n s u ch m a t e ri al ?
43 7 . On wh a t ch a ract e r o f w o o l m a t e ri al a re t he su b s ta n t i v e d y es m o st l y
u se d ? Why a re t he y so a da pt b l
a e fo r d y i g in m
e n ach i ne s ?
438 . Wh at i s the ch i e f re co mme n da t io n o f t he su b s t a nt i v e d y es o n w oo l?
Of wh at ch a ra ct e r o f d yi ge n s i s t hi s es p e ci a ll y t ru e ? Are b
t h e s u s t a nt i v e

c o lo rs fas t t o st o v i n g?
439 . Do e s t h e fa st ne s s o f t he su b s t a nt i v e co lo r s di ffe r wh n d y d e e o n w l oo

fro m t h at o n co tt o n ? Ho w do e s t he e xh a u st i o n o f the dy b th emp -

a co a re wi t h
t he t wo fib re s ?
440 . In g e ne ral, h o w i s th e a ft e r -t re a t m e nt o f the su b s t ant i ve co lo rs o n

wo o l wi th ch ro m i um s alt s co nd u c t e d ? Ho w mu ch ch ro me o r ch ro mi u m
fl uo ri de sh o u ld be u se d ?
44 1 . Ho w may th e d y i ng
e s be a ft e r-t rea t e d w i t h bl ue s t o ne , a nd ho w m u ch
o f thi s salt is ta k en ? Wh at i s the p in i p
r c al e f
fe ct o f t he bl u e st o ne o n t he

fa st ne s s o f the co lo r ?
442 . W h at i s t h e me t h o d o fo bt a i ni n g a Iie ffe r e xh a us t i o n o f t h e dye at h -
b
fo r a ft e r-t re a t me nt ? In case th e b at h do e s no t e xh au st w e ll, h o w s h o u ld t h e

a ft e r-t re at m e nt be co nd uct e d ?
 S ECTI ON XV .

REPRESENTATIVE S U B S TA N TIVE D YES ON C O TTON .

Expe ri m e n t 98 . Re pr es e n t a ti ve Su b s t anti ve Dy e s . Dy e
sk e ins of co t t on y arn in bat hs con t ain ing 1 p e r c e n t of soda ash .
,

2 0 p er c e nt of common s al t and 2 p e r c e n t of t he r e sp e c t ive

.
-
,
.

dy e s name d b e low ; e n t e r at 1 60 F bring t o t h e boil and d y e at

°
,

t hat t e mp e rat ur e for o ne h alf ho u r t h e n wash and dry

-
Us e ,
.

t h e following dy e s t u fis :

( )
I T h i o fl a v i n e S ( C ass .
)
( )
2 D iamin e B rown 3 G ( C ass ) .

(3 ) D i amin e B ord e aux B ( C ass ) .

(4 ) D i amin e O rang e D ( C ass ) .

(5 ) C hicago B lu e 6 B ( B e r ) .

( )
6 C olumbia B l ack F B ( B e r ) .

(7 ) D i amin e R os e B D ( C ass ) .

( )
8 B e n z o Fas t S c arl e t ( E lb ) .

(9 ) D i anil B lu e G ( M e t z )
( )
1 0 D ianil G r e e n G ( M e t z )
T e s t t h e s e dy e ings for fas t n e ss t o washing (3 0 8— 3 1 7 ) and
wat e r (3 1 8
M ak e a r e cord of your r e sul t s as fo llows
Was h i ng . Wa t e r .

D y f
e st u f

Wa t e r . Wa t e r .
 REPRES EN TA TI VE SU SB TAN TI VE D YES O N CO TTO N . 17 1

NOTES .

1 . Apparatu s fo r Dy ei ng Co t to n Ya r n Wood e n vat s are .

g e n e rally us e d for dy e ing co t t on in t h e form of hanks and t h e y ,

ar e usually cons t ruc t e d t o hold 5 0 or 1 00 pounds It is s e ldo m .

t h e y are mad e larg e r or sm a ll e r t h an t his for prac t ical work .

D uring t h e dy e ing proc e ss t he hanks ar e hung on smoo t h rods ,

so t hat only abou t o ne four t h of t h e ir l e ng t h i s above t he d y e

-

liquor Th e yarn is t urn e d by hand or a s t ick may b e us e d in

.
, ,

which cas e a poin t e d s t ick which is t hinn e r t han t hat on which

t h e yarn han gs is pass e d t hrough t h e h an k b e low t h e o t h e r s t ick
, ,

and t h e yarn is t h e n rais e d wi t h i t and t urn e d Th e vat s mus t .

b e so cons t ruc t e d t ha t t h e yarn can b e e asily t urn e d wi t hou t t o o

much wat e r b e ing r e quir e d in propor t ion t o t he co t t on Th e .

following are sui t abl e in t e rnal dim e nsions :

l e ng t h 64 inch e s
,
.

5 0 pounds yarn br e ad t h 2 2 5 inch e s

, .

d e p t h 2 3 5 inch e s
,
.

l e ng t h 1 1 8 inch e s
,
.

1 00 pounds yarn br e ad t h 2 2 5 inch e s

, .

d e p t h 2 3 4 inch e s
, ;
.

Th e d y e liquor is h e at e d by a s t e am coil which may e n t e r t he

liquor at t h e t o p e nd of t h e v at If t h e Vat s are long t wo coils
.
,

may b e use d o ne from e ach e n d b u t if shor t o ne coil will b e

, , ,

suffi ci e n t Th e s e coils are clos e d a t t h e e nds b u t t h e sid e s a re

.
,

sui t ably p e rforat e d wi t h sm al l hol e s and i t is b e st t o fix t h e m on

,

t o t h e s t e a m pip e wi t h a union join t so t h e y may b e r e mov e d fro m

t h e v a t if n e c e ssary Th e s t e am coil should li e und e r a p e rforat e d
.

fals e bo t t om Of wood so as t o pr e ve n t t h e yarn fr om coming in

,

dir e c t con t ac t wi t h t h e h o t pip e and also so t hat t h e forc e of t h e

,

e sc aping s t e am may b e brok e n and diss e mina t e d and no t t angl e

up t h e yarn In som e c as e s t h e pip e is fi t t e d b e hind a p e rforat e d

.
,

wood e n p ar t i t ion which s t ands 4 t o 6 inch e s from t he t o p e nd of

t h e v at and which is a li t t l e low e r t han t h e la tt e r
,
This arrang e .

m e n t O ff e rs c e rt ain advan t ag e s as solu t ions of dy e s t u ffs e t c

, ,
.
,
 1 7 2 D YE N G AN D I TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

may b e pour e d in t o t h e spac e b e h i nd i t during t h e dy e ing proc e ss

and gradu all y dis t ribu t e d t hrough t h e liquor wi t hou t h aving t o
r e mov e t h e yarn To le t t h e liquor run o ff aft e r dy e ing i t is b e s t
.
,

t o h ave t h e v at fi t t e d wi t h a v al v e which c an b e op e n e d by t urning

a h andl e from t h e ou t sid e Th e old m e t hod of h aving a plug t o
.

b e drawn is bad as t h e workm e n ar e li abl e t o b e scal d e d

,
Th e .

rods on which t h e yarn is hung S hould b e h ard s t raigh t s t icks of

h aze l ash e t c from which all kno t s ar e r e move d so t hat no rough
, ,
.

plac e s are l e ft B e sid e s t he v at m e t hod of dy e ing co t t on yarn may

.
,

b e dy e d by machin e s ; in o ne form a v at is us e d as wi t h hand

dy e ing b u t t h e s t icks ar e t urn e d m e chanic ally by a sys t e m of
,

in t e rac t ing cogs In ano t h e r form such as t h e K lau d e r We ldon

.
,
-

machin e t h e rods ar e arrange d on a circul ar spid e r frame ro t at ing

,

in a s e micircular v at t h e s t icks al so b e ing t urn e d m e chanic ally

,

as t he frame ro t at e s ; in t his m e t hod only o ne h alf t he load of yarn

,
-

i s in t he liquor at any o ne t ime so t hat e conomy in t h e amoun t of

,

d ye liquor is e ffe c t e d ; t h e yarn is al so k e p t o u t s t raigh t by b e ing

mor e or l e ss s t re t ch e d b e t w e e n t h e rods which pr e ve n t s t angling ,
.

Ano t h e r m e t hod of machin e dy e ing which h as com e in t o prac t ic e,

of lat e and which may also b e e mploy e d for y arns t hough i t i s

, ,

most ly us e d for cops bobbins e t c i s wh e re t he mat e ri al i s

, ,
.
,

t igh t ly pack e d in a chamb e r of m e t al fix e d t o a suc t ion t ub e and

pump ; t h e co t t on r e m ai ns st at ionary and t he dy e ing i s e ffe c t e d by
forcing t he h e at e d liquor t hrough t h e mat e ri al Co t t on yarn i s .

also largely dy e d in t h e form of pr e par e d warps in which cas e ,

a Sp e ci al warp dy ei ng machin e i s use d t h e war p or chain run

-
,

ning ov e r roll e rs up and down t hrough t h e v at s e v e ral t ime s ,

t h e n t hrough squ e e z e roll e rs ; if n e c e ssary s e v e r al runs ar e mad e

t hrough t h e machin e t o ob t ain t h e d e sir e d shad e In t h e lat t e r .

c as e t h e machin e may consist of s e ve r al comp art m e n t s e ach

,

provid e d wi t h squ e e ze roll e rs and t h e yarn is run t hrough e ac h

,

compar t m e n t succ e ssive ly .

2 . Appar atu s fo r Dy e i n g Wo o l e n Yarn This mat e ri al i s .

usu ally dy e d in wood e n vat s S imilar to t hos e j us t d e scr i b e d for

t h e dy e ing of co t t on yarn It mus t b e born e in mind how e v e r
.
, ,

t hat for wool e n yarn dy e d on s t icks in larg e vat s t h e r e will b e

1 74 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

t he hanks t og e t h e r t igh t ly and laying t h e m in boiling wat e r

for a coupl e of hours t h e n allo wi ng t he m t o cool b e fore un t wis t
,

ing In using t h e K lau d e r We ldon machin e for dy e i ng or scour

.
-

i ng t h i s pr e vious scalding will b e sup e rfluous as t h e yarn will

, ,

nat urally und e rgo t his op e rat ion wh e n s t r e t ch e d in t h e m ach i n e

during t h e dy e ing proc e ss i t s e lf Wi t h such yarn how e ve r t he
.
, ,

hanks S hould no t b e unst r e t ch e d un t i l t h e y hav e pass e d t hrough

cold wat e r or hav e cool e d down .

3 . Appar atu s for Dy e ing Si lk Yarn Small lo t s O f silk yarn

.

a re usually dy e d in copp e r boil e rs and larg e r lo t s in copp e r or

,

copp e r plat e d vat s Th e s e a re usually moun t e d on wh e e le d

-
.

fram e s SO t hat wi t h t h e e xc e p t ion of t he long h e avy vat s t h e y

, , ,

may b e conve ni e n t ly mov e d abou t t he dy e house Th i s arrang e .

m e n t is a d e sirable o ne as t h e dy e r r e quire s t o u s e larg e r o f small e r

,

vat s according t o t h e quant i t y of Silk which h as t o b e dy e d a t o ne

t im e . As t h e vat s are oft e n use d for t h e mos t vary i ng shad e s i t ,

is n e c e ssary t o fre qu e n t ly cle ans e t h e m t horoughly Fo r t h i s .

purpose t h e y may b e firs t bo i l e d o u t wi t h old boil e d o ff liquor -

,

or t h e inn e r Sid e s may b e t horoughly scoure d w i t h a h o t s t rong

solu t i on of soda ash Aft e r t his h as b e e n run o u t t h e v at is rinse d
.
,

wi t h wat e r and t h e n cl e ans e d again wi t h dilu t e sulphuric acid ,

and finally rins e d o u t ag ai n wi t h wat e r Th e l arg e r vat s wh i ch .

,

a r e s t at ionary a r e g e n e rally h e at e d wi t h a s t e am co i l plac e d und e r

,
-

a p e rforat e d false bo t t om ; for t h e small e r vat s usually movable ,

s t e am pip e s are inse r t e d Th e se s t e am —p i p e s S hould b e fi t t e d so

-
.

as t o t urn in a b all and S ock e t jo i n t so t hat t h e y may b e mov e d

- -

around in any dire c t ion Th e s i lk is hung in hanks on smoo t h

.

rods in t h e sam e man n e r as wool or co t t on abou t o n e h alf pound ,

-

O f s i lk b e ing dis t ribu t e d on e ach s t ick Si lk may al so b e dy e d in

.

machin e s t h e Ch i e f form in t h is coun t ry b e ing t h e K la u d e r

,

We ldon for wh i ch purpos e a S p e ci al machin e is cons t ruc t e d

,
.

Th e spid e r is SO arrang e d t hat a t any t im e t he e n t ir e lo t of yarn

may b e r ai s e d o u t of t h e liquor .

4 Li s t o f t h e Pri n ci pal Su b s t an t i v e Dy e s fo r Co tt o n
. Th e .

subst an t iv e dy e s form a v e ry larg e and e ve r incr e as i ng group -

.

Al t hough t h e most of t h e m are appli e d al most e xclusive ly t o

 REP RES E N TA TI VE SU S B TAN TI VE D YES O N CO TT O N . 1 75

co t t on n e ve r t h e l e ss many of t h e m are also us e d for dy e ing wool

,

and silk Some of t h e subs t an t ive dy e s are also adap t e d for

.

aft e r t r e at m e n t wi t h blu e s t on e and chrom e Th e s e are indic a t e d

-
.

in a s e parat e lis t .

RED .

Ace t o pu rp u ri ne 8B Di a m i ne Re d B , 3 B , 4 B , 5 B , 6 B , I O B ,
Alk a li B o r de a u x . N O , a nd D .

Alk a li Gre na t .
Di a m i ne Ro se B D , B G , a nd G D .

Alk a li Pu r p u ri ne .
Di a m i ne Sca rle t B , 3B , a nd HS .

Alk a li Re d, a nd 7 B . D i a m i ne Vio le t Re d .

Az o Pu r p u ri ne .
Di a ni l Po n ce a u G a nd 2 R .

B e n z o B o r de a ux .
Di re ct Sca rle t .

B e nzo F a s t Re d L a nd GL . Eri k a .

B e nzo F a s t Ro se G e ra ni ne G a nd 2 B .

B e nz o F a st Sca rle t . He ss i a n B o rde a ux .

B e nz o p p
ur u ri ne B , 4B , 6B , a nd IO B . He ssi a n B ri lli a nt Pu r le p .

B e nz o Re d I O B a nd SG . He ssi a n Fa st Ru i n e b .

B e nzo Rh o d ul i ne Re d B a nd 3B . He ssi a n Pur le B , , D, p a nd N .

B ri lli a n t Co n o g . O x a m i ne B o rdea ux .

B rilli a nt G e ra ni n e . O xa mi ne G re na t .

B ri lli a n t Pu r p u ri ne 4B an d IO B . O x a m i ne Ma ro o n .

Ch i ca g o Re d . O x a m i ne R e d .

Chlo ra n t i n e R e d 4 B a nd 8 B . P u rp u ra m i ne .

Co lu m i a b Re d 4 B a nd 8B . Ro sa z u ri ne B a nd G .

Co n o g Re d . Ro so p h e n i ne .

Co n o g Ru i ne b . Sa lmo n Re d .

Co t t o n Re d 4 B . St De ni s Re d
. .

D e lt a pu rp u ri ne 5 B a nd 7 B , a nd G . Th i a z i ne Re d .

Di a m i ne B o rde a u x B a n d S . To lu le ne Re d y .

D i a m i ne B rilli a nt Sca rle t S . Tro na Re d .

D i a m i ne Fa st Re d F
O RA N G E .

Al k a li O ra n g e . Di a ni l O ran g e .

B e nz o F a st O ra n g e S . D i re ct O ra ng e .

B e nz o O r a n g e R . Mi k a do O ra n g e .

B ri lli a nt O ra n g e G . p
Na h t h a m i ne O ra n e g .

Ch i ca g o O ra n g e . Ne w To lu le ne O ra n y g e .

Chlo ra m i ne O ran g e . O ra n g e TA .

Co lu m i a O ra nb g e . O xy di a mi ne O ra n g e .

Co n g o O ra n g e G a nd R . Plu t o O ran g e G .

Co t t o n O ra n g e G a nd R . Pyr am i ne O ra n g e R a nd 3 G .

Di a m i ne Fa st O ra n g e . To lu le ne O ra y ng e .

Di a m i ne O ra nge .
1 76 D YE N G AN D I TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

Al k ali YellowR . Di re ct Ye llo w G and 3G , L , R , T

B ri lli a nt Y ll w
e o . TG .

Carb a zo l Y ll w
e o . Hessi an Y e llo w .

Chlo ra mi ne Y e llo w GG a nd M . Me k o ng Y e llo w .

Ch lo ra n ti ne Ye ll w T o . M i k a do Go ld Y ello w .

Ch ro m i ne G . Mi k ado Y e llo w .

Chr y min G d R sa e an . Mi mo sa .

Ch y p h i
r so e n ne . Na ph t h ami ne Y e llo w .

C l m b i Y ll w
o u a e o . O ri o l .

C t t n Y ll w G
o o d R e o an . O xy di a m i ne Ye llo w .

Cu rcu m i ne S . w
O xy di a ni l Ye llo .

Di a mi ne Fa st Ye llo w . P lyph yl Y ll w
o en e o .

Di am i ne Go ld . S li i
a Y ll w G
c ne e o a nd GG .

Di a mi ne Y e llo w . S un Y ll w e o .

Di ani l Ye llo w . Thi l Y ll w G

a zo e o an d R .

p y
Di h e n l Chryso i n . Th i o fl avi ne S .

p y
Di h e n l Ci t ro ni ne . Xant hi ne .

Di ph nyl F e a st Ye llo w . Y e llo w CR an dD .

GREEN .

Al k ali Gree n . Di a m i ne Dar k Gree n .

B e nzo Dar k Gree n B a nd Di ami ne G ree n .

B e nzo Gree n B B a nd G . Di re ct Gree n .

B e nz o O li v e . E b o li G ree n .

B ri lli ant B e nzo G ree n . O xa mi ne Da r k Gree n .

Chlo ra m i ne G ree n . O xam i ne G ree n .

Co lu m i a Darb k Gree n . To la mi ne Gree n .

Co lu mb i a Gree n .

B LU E .

y
Ace t le ne B lue . Be nzo In d i g o Blue .

Al k a li Azo B lue . B e nzo Mari ne Blue .

Az o B lu e . Be nzo Pure B lue .

Azo Co ri nt h . Be nzo Re d B lue G .

Az o Da r k B lue . B rilli a nt Az uri ne .

Azo Mau ve . B ri lli a nt B e nz o B lue 6B .

B e nzo Az uri ne G , 3 G, a nd R . Chi ca g o B lue .

B e nz o B lu e . Chlo raz o l B lu e .

B e nz o Ch ro m e Dar k Bl ue B and N . b
Co lu m i a B lue .

pp Bl l mb i F t B l
i

Be nzo Co er ue B . Co u a as ue .

B e nz o Cy i n B
an e , 3B , a nd R . Co l mbi D k B l
u a ar ue .

B e nz o D k Bl
ar ue R , G , a nd 5 G . Co n g Bl o ue .

B e nzo Fast B lu e . Co ng F t Bl
o as ue .
1 7 8 D YE N G AN D I TEXTILE CHEMIS TR Y .

B ROWN . Co nt i n u e d .

Di ami ne Fast B ro wn . p
Na h t ha mi ne B ro w n .

Di a mi ne N i t razo l B ro wn . New To lu le ne B ro y wn .

Di a m i ne ral B ro wn . O xa mi ne B ro wn .

Di a zo B ro w n . O xami ne Maro o n .

p
Di h e n l B ro y wn . O xy di a m i ne B ro wn .

Di re ct B ro wn . Plut o B ro wn .

Di re ct B ro nze B ro wn . Te rra Co t ta .

Di re ct Fa st B ro wn . wn
Thi az i ne B ro .

Fast Co tt o n B ro wn . T l yl n B wn
o u e e ro .

He ssi an B ro wn . T i lph n B w
r su o ro n .

Mi k ado B ro wn . Z mb i B wn
a es ro .

(h) B LACK .

Al k a li B la c k B and G . Di p h y l B len Bl k ue ac .

B e nzo Chro m e Bla c k . D i ph n y l B l k

e ac .

B e nzo Chro me B lue B la c k . Di ph yl F t B l k

en as ac .

B e nz o Fa st B lac k . Di t Bl k
re c ac .

b
Car i de B la c k . Di t Bl
re c Bl k ue ac .

Ch ro m ani l B la c k . Di t D p B l k
re c ee ac .

Co ld B la c k . I d i ph yl B l k
so en ac .

Co lu m i a Bla cb k . Me lant h e ri ne .

Co t t o n B la c k . p
Na h t h ami ne B la c k .

Di a mi ne B la c k . N y a nza B la c k .

Di a mi ne B lue B la c k . O xami ne B la c k .

Di am i ne De e p B la c k . O xy di a mi ne B la c k .

Di am i ne J et B la c k . Pluto Bla c k .

Di a m i ne ral B la c k . Po lyph e nyl B la c k .

Di a m i no e ne B , g a nd e xt ra . Ta b o ra B la c k .

Di a ni l B la c k . y
To lu le ne B la c k .

Di a zo Blac k . Vi o le t Bla ck .

Di azo Blue Blac k . Zambe si B lack .

(i ) GR AY .

B e nzo Fa st G ra y . Fa st G ra y .

Chi ca y g o G ra . He ssi an Co ppe r Gray .

Di mia G y ne ra . He ssi an Gra y .

Di ph nyl G ye ra . Ne u t ra l G ra y .

Di t G y
re c ra . Zambe si Gra y .
 REP RES E N TA TI VE S UB S TAN TI VE D Y ES ON CO TTO N . 1 79

5 . Su b s t anti v e Dy e s Su i ta b l e fo r Af t e r t r e atm e nt
- wi t h B l u e
s t o ne .

Azo Vi o le t . B ri lli a nt B e nzo Blue 6 B .

B e nz o Az u ri ne G , 3 G , a nd R . Chlo ra m i ne Vi o le t R .

B e nzo Blue . Ch r y sa m i ne G a nd R .

B e nzo Co pp er Blue B . Di a m i ne B lu e RW .

B e nz o C y a ni ne B , 3B , a nd R . Di a m i ne Pu re B lu e .

B e nz o Pu re B lu e . He ssi an Co e r G rapp y .

B ri lli ant Az u ri ne . Plu t o O ran g G e .

6 . Su b s t an ti v e Dy e s Su i t ab le fo r A r tr e a t m e n t
ft e -
wi t h Ch r o m e
a nd B lu e sto ne .

B e nzo Ch ro m e B la c k B a nd N . b
Co lu m i a Ch ro m e B la c k .

B e nzo Ch ro m e B lu e B lac k B . Cu pra ni l B ro w n .

B e nzo Ch ro m e B ro wn . Di a mi ne Ca t e ch i ne .

b
Car i de B lac k BO . Di a m i ne ral B la c k .

Ca t e ch u B wn ro . Di re ct De e p Bl k E t ac e x ra .

Ch ro ma ni l B l k ac . Di re ct D ee p Bl k RW ac e x t ra .

Ch ro ma ni l B wn ro . Plu t o O ra ng G e .

Ch r y sa m i ne G a nd R . Tri sulph o n B wn S ro .

7 . Pri nci pal Su b s t an ti v e Dy e s Appli ca b l e to Wo o l .

(a ) RED .

Ant h race ne Re d . D e lt a Pur p u ri ne 5 B a nd 7 B .

B e nz o B o rde a ux 6 B . Di a mi ne B o rde a ux B and S .

B e nz o Fa st R e d L . Di a m i ne Fast R e d F .

B e nz o Pu r p uri ne B , 4B , 6 B , a nd IO B . Di a m i ne Re d N O , D , 5 B , a nd IO B .

B e nzo Re d I OB . Di am i ne Sca rle t B , 3B , a nd HS .

B e nzo Rh o du li ne Re d . G e r a ni n e G an d BB .

B ri lli an t Co g
n o R . He ssi a n B o rde aux .

B ri lli ant G e ra ni ne B . He s si a n B ri lli ant Pur le p .

B rilli a nt Pu r p u ri ne R . He ssi an Pur ple .

Co n g o Re d . Ro saz uri ne B, G .

Co n g o b
R u i ne .

O R AN GE .

Al k ali O ra n g e . Di re ct O ra n g e R a nd 2 R .

B e nzo Fas t O ran g e S . Mi k a do O ran g e .

B ri lli ant O ra n g e G . O ra n g e TA .

Co n g o O ra n g e G a nd R . Plut o O ra n g e G .

Co tt o n O ra ng e G a nd R . y
To lu le ne O ran g e G a nd R .

Di ami ne O ran g e B, G , D, GC, a nd D C .

1 80 D YE N G AN D I TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

(c) Y ELLOW .

B ri lli ant Ye llo w . Di p h nyl Ci t i e ro n ne .

Ca rb azo l Ye ll w
o . Di p h yl F t Y ll wen as e o .

Chlo ra m i ne Ye llo wM . H i n Y ll w
e ss a e o .

y mi
Ch r sa ne G a nd R . Mi k d Y ll wa o e o .

Ch y p h
r so e n i ne . P lyp h nyl Y ll w
o e e o .

wR Y ll w G
.

Co t t o n Y e llo . S li i
a c ne G e o ,
2 .

Cu rcu m i ne S a nd W . S unY ll w 3 G e o .

Di a m i ne Fa s t Y e llo wA . Th i l Y ll w G nd
azo e o a R .

Di a m i ne G o ld Y e ll wo . Thi o fl avi ne S .

Di a m i ne Ye llo wN .

(d) G REEN .

B e nzo Dar k G ree n B , 2G . Dia mi ne G ree n B .

B e nz o G ree n 2 B a nd G . b
E o li G ree n S a nd ST .

(e) B LU E .

Az o B lue . Di a m i ne Ne w B lu e G a nd R .

B e nzo Az uri ne G , 3 G , a nd R . Di a mi ne Pu re B lue FF .

B e nzo B lue 2 B , 3 B , a nd B X , 2 R , 4 R , E b o li B lue .

a nd RW . To le do B lu e .

B e nzo C y an i ne B and R . Mo st o f t he bl ue su b s t a nt i v e d y es

Ch i ca g o B lu e B . e xh a u s t b ut p o o rl y o n w oo l fro m a

Co n g o Blu e 2B . ne u t ra l b th ; b tt
a e er re s ult s a re

Di a mi ne B lue 2B, B
3 , a nd B X, 3 R , o bt a i ne d by t h ddi t i e a o n o f a s mll a

a nd RW . a mo un t o f a ce t i c a ci d , o r u nde r so me
Di a mi ne B ri lli a nt B lue . co nd i t i o ns , o f sul h uri c p a ci d .

(f) VIOLET .

Azo Vi o le t . D i a mi ne Vio le t N .

Chlo ra m i ne Vi o le t . Diazo Bla c k H a nd R .

Co n o g Co ri nt h B a nd G . He ss i a n Vi o le t .

(g) B ROWN .

B e nzo B ro wn . Di azo B ro wn G .

B e nzo Ch ro m e B ro wn G , 5 G, R, a nd Di re ct Fa st B ro wn B a nd 2 G .

3R . Pe g u B ro wn .

Co tt o n B ro wn A a nd N . Plu t o B ro wn 2 G, NB, a nd R .

Di a mi ne -B ro nze G . To lu le ne B ro y wn .

D i am i ne B ro n B , 3 G , M , w and V .
 82 D YE N G AN D I TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

45 6 . Wh at ch a ra ct e r o f ro d s sh o uld b e u se d fo r h a n i n g g th e b a nks o f y arn

o n

45 7 . In wh at fo rm s f m a ch i ne s m ay co tt o n arn b e d e d ?
o y y De scri b e th e
K la u de r-We ldo n m a ch i ne Wh at a dv anta e s do e s t h i s o ffe r ?
. g
45 8 . De scri b e t he g e n e ra l p i n i pl
r c e o f the p re ssur e o r su cti o n d y i ng
e

m a chi ne s . Wha t a d v a nt a g es a nd d i sa dv anta g es do ma ch i ne s o f t his t yp e

p o sse ss ?
45 9 . Ho w a re co tt o n w p ar s d y ed ? Wh at a re the a d v a nt a g es o f w p ar

d y i g?
e n

4 60 . Assu m i n g b a re a d t h o f 22 i n ch e s a nd a de th p of 2 4 i n ch e s , a v a t o f
g w ld b q i d f t h dy ing f
Wh a t le n t h o u e re p w
u re y o r e e o 1 00 o u nd s o f o o le n arn ,

su pp i g 6 g ll n U S t b
o s n 00 d i t h dy
a o s t? . . o e use n e e -v a

46 H w m h w l y n m y b pl
1 . o uc d oo h t i k i n t h dy
en ar t a e a ce o n ea c s c e e va
~
,

a nd h w m ny m n o q i d f t ni ng ? S pp ing th t 4 m
a e a re re u re t 5 o r ur u o s a en a

p erd y f a h on n tw
10 t f
o u rs ca p n d h ru d t h t t h t i m
o va s o 1 00 o u s ea c ,
an a e e

o f d y i ng w hi g t
e f
,
h l t i
as n3h ,
e cwh t w ld b th w g t
.
,
o r e ac o s 2 o u rs , a o u e e a e co s

o f d y i ng e p d fw l y n? 2 000 o un s o o o en ar

46 In 2 i ng t ndi ng k t t l
. us i dy i g s a p nd l t w i t h h w m h e es n e n 1 00 - o u o s, o uc

g l b au lt i t
e rsa h fi t b t h h gs d g ne lly irs p t ia H w m c hi dd d
ar e e e ra n ra c ce o uc s a e

t o b q nt b t h ?
su se ue a s

463 F wh t l gt h f t im
. o r a l m y t di g k t t l b
en o wh n e , as a ru e , a s an n e es e ru n e

dy i g w l n y n i
e n id b th ?
o o e ar n ac a s

4 64 D .th l w l y n
o es l
e co o r o n m pl l fi t t ti g
oo en ar ,
a s a ru e , co e u eve o n rs s ar n

th dy i g ?
e Wh t
e n d y i gn t t h i ? Wh t
a r ea so n th o l t o u a ss o s a ca u se s e co o r o

di t i b t i t lf
s r u e nly d i Wh t t i m
se eve h ld i t l an l p? n a e s o u e ve u

465 Wh t h . t f m hi
a c m y b ara c e r o d f dy i g w l y n?
ac ne s a e u se o r e n oo en ar

F Wh t k i d f y n i t h K l d
o r a n o W ld m hi ar s p i lly d p t d ?
e au e r -
e o n ac ne e s e c a a a e

4 6 6 W l n y n wh i h i li b l t
. o o e l p h ld b t
ar ct d i wh t
s a e o cu r u s o u e re a e n a

m b f dy i g ? Gi
a nne r e o re pl t i f t hi p
e n ve an ex a na o n o s ro ce ss .

467 I p i
. ldi g f
s a ly y n n
rev o u s sca y wh i g nKl d o cu r ar e ce ssa r en us n a au er

W ld n m h i f d y i g ? Why ?
e o ac ne o r e n

4 6 8 Wh t k i d f
. t a d f t h d y i g f ilk y n ? E p l i n t h
n o v a s a r e u se o r e e n o S ar s x a e

m n a f l ni n g t h
ne r o t wh n
c ea i g d iff t le va s e us n e re n co o r s .

4 69 H w m h ilk h ld b pl
. o ucd t t i k i n d y i g by h
S S o u d? I e a ce o a s c e n an n

wh t h t f m h i n m y ilk y n b dy d ?
a c ara c e r o ac es a S ar e e

47 D 0 .ib th K l d W ld n m hi n mpl y d p i lly f th

e s cr e e au er- e o ac e e o e es ec a o r e

d y i n g f i lk
e o s .
 S ECT I ON X VI .

APPLICATION OF MORD AN T D YES To WO O L .

Expe ri m e nt 9 9 . Me t h o d o f Dy e i ng
Ge ne ral The mos t .

g e n e rally us e d mordan t for wool i s chrom e or po t assium bichro

mat e It is appli e d t o t h e fibr e in t he following mann e r : Pr e par e
.

a b at h con t aining 3 p e r c e n t of chrom e and 4 pe r c e n t of t ar t ar ;

. .

°
e n t e r a t e s t sk e in of wool e n yarn a t 1 40 F , gradu ally rais e t o
-
.

t h e boil and con t inu e a t t hat t e mp e rat ur e for o ne half hour ;

,
-

wash w e ll and t h e n d ye in a fr e sh b at h con t aining 2 pe r c e n t

,
.

Ali z arin B lu e N G and 4 pe r c e n t of cal cium ac e t at e ; e n t e r at

.

1 00 F
°
gradually raise t o t h e boil and dye at t h at t e mp e rat ur e
.
, ,

for o ne half hour ; t h e n add 2 p e r c e n t of ac e t ic acid and boil fdr

-
.

1 5 minu t e s long e r ; wash w e ll and dry Chrom e or p o t as ,

sium bichromat e is a s al t of chromic acid (Cr O s ) whil e t h e

, ,

mord an t which is e ve n t ually produc e d on t h e fibr e i s chromium

oxid e (CrzO s ) ; h e nc e in t h e proc e ss of mord an t ing t he chrom e
mus t und e rgo r e duc t ion This is brough t abou t par t ly by t h e
.

wool i t se lf b u t chi e fly by t h e aid of t h e t ar t ar Th e latt e r is

,
.

po t assium acid t ar t rat e or po t assium bi t ar t rat e and is a re ducing

, ,

ag e n t . Aft e r mordan t ing i t will b e no t ic e d t hat t h e wool i s

y e llow in color ; t his is probably d u e t o t h e format ion of chromium
chromat e in t he fi bre If t his compound is e xpos e d t o t h e ac t ion
.

of s t rong ligh t i t will suffe r a rapid re duc t ion t o chromium oxid e ,

which is gr e e n in Color ; h e nc e i t is b e s t no t t o e xpos e t h e mor

d an t e d wool un e ve nly t o ligh t for any l e ng t h of t im e b e for e
dy e ing .

Experi m e nt 1 00 Efi e ct o f Iro n Salt s i n t h e B a t h

. Ali z arin .

colors are much aff e c t e d by t h e pr e s e nc e of i ro n s al t s in e i t h e r

h
t e mordan t or t h e d y e —b a t h t h e color,
b e ing consid e rably dull e d
.
t hrough t h e forma t ion of an iron color lak e wi t h t h e dy e s t u ff -
.

1 83
1 84 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

To how t his influ e nc e in t h e mord an t b at h mordan t a sk e in of

S ,

woole n yarn in a b at h con t aining 3 p e r c e n t of chrom e 4 p e r c e n t .

,
.

of t ar t ar and a fe w drops of a solu t ion of copp e ras Aft e r mor

,
.

d an t ing d ye as usual wi t h 2 pe r c e n t of Ali z arin B lu e N G; .

wash and dry and compar e t h e color t hus ob t ain e d wi t h

t hat produc e d wi t h t h e sam e mord an t and dy e s t u ff w i t hou t t he
addi t ion of t he iron sal t Mord an t a s e cond sk e in of woole n
.

yarn in t h e usual mann e r wi t h 3 pe r c e n t of chrom e and 4 p e r .

c e n t of t ar t ar and d ye as b e for e wi t h 2 pe r c e n t of Ali z arin

.
,
.

B lu e N G b u t add t o t h e d ye b at h a fe w drops of a solu t ion of

,
-

copp e ras No t i c e t h e e ffe c t of t his on t h e app e aranc e of t h e

.

color
Ex pe ri m e n t 1 0 1 Co m pari so n o f Diffe r e n t Mo r dan t s o n Wo o l
. .

Mordan t a sk e in of woole n yarn in a ba t h con t a i ning 3 p e r c e n t

‘

of chrom e and 4 p e r c e n t of t a rt ar ; e n t e r at 1 40 F gradu ally

.
°

bri ng t o t h e boil and con t inu e at t hat t e mp e rat ur e for o ne half

,
-

hour ; wash w e ll (33 2 ) and d ye in a fre sh b at h con t aining 2 pe r

c e n t of Ali z arin Re d SW; e n t e r at 1 00 F gradually bring t o t h e
.
°
.
,

boil and d ye a t t hat t e mp e rat ure for o ne h al f hour t h e n wash

,
-
,

w e ll and dry
M ord an t a s e cond sk e in of woole n yarn 1 n t h e sam e mann e r in
a S i milar b at h b u t inst e ad of using chrom e u s e 1 0 p e r c e n t of
,
.

alum ; wash w e ll and d ye as b e for e wi t h 2 p e r c e n t of .

Ali z arin R e d SW
M ordan t a t hird sk e in using 8 p e r c e n t of copp e ras as t he
,
.

mordan t wi t h 6 p e r c e n t of t ar t ar ; wash w e ll
. and d ye wi t h
2 p e r c e n t of Ali z arin R e d SW
.

M ord an t a four t h sk e in wi t h 5 p e r c e n t of blu e s t on e (3 3 8 ) and

.

4p e r c e n t of t ar t
. ar ; wash w e ll and d y e wi t h 2
p e r c,
e n t of Al i z arin .

R e d SW
M ordan t a fift h sk e in wi t h 4 p e r c e n t of s t annous chlorid e and.

2
p e r c e n t of oxalic acid
.
; wash w e ll and d y e wi t h 2
p e r c e n t .

of Ali z arin R e d SW
Compar e t h e s e ve r al colors ob t ain e d on t h e di ffe r e n t mordan t s
w i t h t h e sam e dy e s t u ff and al so pre se rv e sampl e s of t h e or i ginal
,

mordan t e d yarn b e fore dy e ing in e ach c as e SO as t o b e abl e t o ,

I 86 D YE N G AN D I TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

Dye a fourt h sk e in wi t h 2 p e r c e nt of Di amond Flavin e (3 46 ) in .

t h e sam e mann e r and af t e r chrom e ; wash and dry -

In e ach
cas e pre s e rve a sampl e of t he sk e in b e fore chroming in ord e r t o
O bs e rv e any chang e in t h e color d u e t o t h e chroming .

Te s t t h e s e colors as t o t h e ir fas t n e ss t o washing and ac i ds .

M ake a r e cord of your r e sul t s in t h e following mann e r

.

Was h i ng t es t

Dy as t u ff .

Co lo r .

Ant hr a ce ne Y e llo wC
Ac i d Ali z a ri n G re e n R

Di am o nd B la c k GA
D i am o nd Fla v i ne .

NOTES .

1 . Th e Mr d
o ant i n g o f Wo o l
In mordan t ing wool wi t h .

chrom e t h e mordan t ing bat h is no t e xhaus t e d and may b e use d

again for fre sh lo t s of wool adding abou t 2 p e r c e n t of chrome
,
.

and 3 pe r c e n t O f t ar t ar e ach t im e Aft e r mordan t ing t h e wool

. .

should b e w e ll wash e d in ord e r t o r e move t h e e xc e ss of mordan t ing

l iquor from t h e fibr e which coming in con t ac t wi t h t he d y e liquor
,

w ould caus e a loss of coloring matt e r by pr e cipi t a t ion and also -

form a loos e ly adh e r e n t surfac e color lak e on t h e fibr e whic h -

would e ve n t u al ly rub o ff b adly and c ause t h e color t o smu t or

crock It has b e e n d e mons t rat e d t hat abou t 3 p e r c e n t of chrom e
. .

i s t h e prop e r amoun t of mord an t t o e mploy for full shad e s of

ali z arin colors ; for ligh t e r S had e s l e ss mord an t may b e us e d If .

l arge r quan t i t i e s t han 3 p e r c e n t are e mploy e d t h e color is liabl e

.
,

t o b e inj ur e d and will no t b e as h e avy or as brigh t as wh e n only

‘

3 p e r c e n t is.us e d T h e u s e of t.o o much chrom e al so h a s t he

e ffe c t of oxidi z ing t h e wool fibr e i t s e lf causing i t t o b e com e ,

h arsh a nd wi t h som e dy e s t o t ak e up l e ss color i ng mat t e r In

,
-
.

plac e of using t ar t ar as t h e assis t an t i n t h e mordan t ing proc e ss ,

 PPL I CA TI O N
A OF M O RD AN T D Y ES TO WO O L . 187

t h e re may b e e mploy e d such subs t anc e s as ox al ic acid lac t ic ,

acid formic acid lac t o li ne (which is po t assium b ilac t at e ) lig

, , ,

no ro s i n (which is a subs t anc e ob t ain e d from t h e s ént liquors in

p
t h e bisulphi t e m e t hod of bl e aching wood pulp ) ; sul phuric o r

hydrochloric acids may also b e us e d and sodi um bisulph at e

.
,
“
( which is sold as t ar t ar subs t i t ut e is fr e qu e n t ly e mploy e d
wh e r e ch e apn e ss is mor e d e sirabl e t han quali t y It is t h e ge n e ral .

opi nion how e ve r t hat t ar t ar furnish e s t h e b e s t all round r e sul t s

, ,
'

-
.

L ac t ic acid e mploy e d in conn e c t ion W i t h sulphuric acid is a v e ry

good assis t an t wh e r e h e avy S had e s such as blu e s browns e t c, , ,
.
,

a re t o b e dy e d ; i t c aus e s a compl e t e r e duc t ion and e xhaus t ion of

t h e mordan t ing ba t h and only r e quir e s t h e u s e of abou t 2 p e r c e n t .

of chrom e in plac e of t h e usual 3 pe r c e n t ; i t c aus e s t he mordan t e d .

wool t o have a v e ry d e cid e d gre e nish color how e ve r and on t hi s , ,

accoun t do e s no t gi Ve as good r e sul t s as t ar t ar in c e r t ain shad e s .

Th e u se of formic acid as a chrom e assis t an t is b e coming of som e

impor t anc e .

2. Dy e i n g W001 wi t h Mo r dant Co lo r s Calcium ac e t a t e i s

.

add e d t o t h e d y e b at h for t h e purpos e of brigh t e ning t h e color

-
,

and i t is suppos e d t hat a t ripl e color lak e is form e d b e t w e e n t h e

-

chromiu m t he calcium and t h e ali z arin Wh e r e t he wa t e r

, ,
.

e mploy e d for t h e d y e b a t h is s u fli c i e nt ly h ard (t ha t is con t ain s

-
,

s u fli c i e nt lim e s al t s in solu t ion ) t h e addi t ion of ac e t ic acid i n

r e quisi t e amoun t s will form t h e n e c e ssary c al ci um ac e t at e h e nc e ,

non e of t his s al t n e e d b e add e d und e r such condi t ions For .

wat e r of 5 d e gr e e s t o 1 0 d e gr e e s of hardn e ss (o ne d e gr e e of
hardn e ss r e pre s e n t s 1 par t of lim e in p ar t s of wat e r )
2 par t s of ac e t ic acid (of
9 B é ) should
°
b e add
. e d for e ach 1 0 0 0

p ar t s of wat e r in t h e d y e b at h ; and for wat e r of 1 0 d e gr ee s t o

-

1 5 d e gr e e s hardn e ss 3 p ar t s of ac e t ic acid shoul d b e add e d Th e .

b e s t and most prac t ical way p e rhaps is t o add ac e t ic acid t o t h e

, ,

d ye b at h un t il a t e s t pap e r of blu e li t mus is dis t inc t ly r e dd e n e d

- -
.

Ac e t ic acid is fur t h e rmor e add e d t o t h e d ye bat h for t h e purpose -

of mor e t horoughly e xhaust ing t h e coloring matt e r b u t t h e -

,

addi t ion of t h e acid in t his case sho uld no t b e mad e un t il n e ar t h e

e nd of t h e dy e ing op e ra t ion in ord e r t o pr e ve n t un e ve nn e ss
,
.
1 88 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

Th e al i z arins , as a rule e xhaus t qui t e w e ll and many of t h e m will

,

no t r e quir e any acid at all e sp e ci ally wh e n l i gh t s h ad e s ar e dy e d

, .

Th e ini t i al t e mp e rat ur e of t h e al i z arin d y e bat h S houl d b e qu i t e -

low ( 1 00 F or e v e n low e r ) and t h e e le vat ion of t h e t e mp e rat ur e

°
.
,

t o t h e boil should b e gradu al in ord e r t o hav e t h e dy e ing e v e n

an d w e ll p e n e t ra t e d Th e color l ak e do e s n o t d e ve lop fully un t il
.
-

aft e r boiling for som e t im e h e nc e i t r e quir e s a long e r t ime as a

, ,

rule t o d ye ali z arins t h an i t do e s acid colors on wool In dy e ing

,
.

t h e af t e r mord an t e d al i z arins i t is usually t h e plan t o add t h e

-
,

mordan t t o t h e d ye b at h aft e r t he dy e ing is comple t e d ; for t his

-

purpos e t h e dy e b at h S hould b e v e ry w e ll e xh aus t e d o t h e rwise

,
-
,

t h e mord an t ing would r e quir e a fr e sh b a t h At t im e s wh e r e .

,

ligh t S h ad e s are b e ing dy e d t h e mord an t and t h e dy e s t u ff (bo t h

,

b e ing in small quan t i t i e s ) may b e add e d t o t h e b at h a t Onc e and ,

t h e mord an t ing and dy e ing t ak e pl ac e simul t an e ously Th e r e .

is a pr e p arat ion known as Me t achrom e mord an t which consis t s

“

e ss e n t i all y of chrom e and ammoniu m sulpha t e which is us e d ,

t og e t h e r wi t h c e r t ain ali z arins for dy e ing in a singl e b a t h Th e .

pr e s e nc e of t h e ammonium sulphat e pr e v e n t s t h e format ion of t h e

color lak e b e for e t h e d y e b at h h as r e ach e d t h e boil and by t hat
- -
,

t im e mos t of t h e chrom e will h ave b e e n absorb e d by t h e fibr e .

This proc e ss wi t h some modific at ions has la t e ly b e com e of

consid e r abl e prac t ical valu e for t h e dy e ing of wors t e d yarns ,

ammonium ac e t a t e b e ing us e d i n co nj unc t i o n w i t h chrom e in t h e '

d y e ba t h
-
O nly c e r t ain of t he mordan t colors a re applicabl e ;
.

t h e s e are sold as chr om at e dye s e tc Wh e re v e ry brigh t colors ,

.

a re d e s i r e d as wi t h r e ds blu e s and ye llows chrom e canno t

, , , ,

b e us e d as t h e mordan t b u t al um or s t annous chlorid e may b e

,

e mploy e d Alum is us e d t o qui t e an e x t e n t for c e r t ain shad e s

.
,

b u t a s t h e colors ob t ain e d on a t i n mordan t are no t as fas t and

as t h e t i n mordan t m ak e s t h e wool harsh and bri tt l e i t is v e ry ,

li t t l e us e d in prac t ic e In ord e r t o ob t ain as brigh t and cle ar

.

colors as possibl e wi t h t h e al i z arin dy e s i t is n e c e ssary t hat t h e ,

wat e r and t h e ch e micals e mploy e d bo th for mordan t ing and d ye

ing should b e fr e e fro m any t rac e of iron as t h e pr e se nc e of t his ,

m e t al caus e s a sadd e ning of t h e color .

 1 9 0 D YE N G AN D I TEX TILE CHEMIS TR Y .

(c) SUITA B LE F OR B O TH METH O D S OF MORD ANTIN G .

Alizari n Bla c k (all b ra nd s) . Clo t h Re d (all b ra nd s ) .

Aliza ri n B lu e B la c kB a nd 3 B . Clo t h Sca rle t .

y
Aliza ri n C a ni ne B la c G k . Di a mo nd Flavi ne G .

Ali z a ri n Fast B la c T k . Di a mo nd O ra n e ast e g p .

g p
Alizari n O ra n e a st e (all b ra nd s ) . Dia mo nd Ye llo a st e wGp .

Alizari n Re d PS p w d o er . g
Do mi n o Ch ro me Re d .

Aliza ri n Re d S p wd o er . g
Do mi n o Ch ro me Y e llo w .

Ali za ri n Re d SB a nd W . Fas t B ro wn .

Aliz ari n Re d WS . Fas t Mo rdant Y e llo w .

Ali za ri n Ye llo wA Cp t ,
as e . G alla nil V io le t .

Ali za ri n Ye llo wp t as e . Ga lle i ne .

Ali za ri n Ye ll w G W R RW
o 2 , , ,
2 G, Indo ch ro m ine .

3 G, a nd R . Me ta ch ro me B ro wn B .

Ant h ra ce ne Re d . M illi ng B ro wn B and G .

Ant h ra ce ne Y e llo w (a ll b ra nd s ) . Milli ng O ra nge .

y
Ant h ra c l Fast Re d . Mi lli ng Re d .

B rilli ant Alizari n B lue G a nd R . M illing Y e llo w .

B ri lli a nt Ali z ari n C y a ni ne G a nd 3G . Mo rda nt Y e llo w G R a nd , , O .

Ca rb azo l Ye llo wW . Sa li ci ne Re d .

Ch ro m e Fa st Y ll w
e o G . Sali ci ne Ye llo w G a nd 2 G .

Ch ro me Pat e nt G ree n . Wo o l Re d .

Chro me Y e llo w (all b ra nd s ) . Wo o l Yello w .

Clo t h O ra n g e .

(d) SUITA B LE F OR DYEIN G IN AC ID B A TH WITH OUT AFTER C HR OMIN G -

.

y
Aliza ri n C an i ne G re e n . Di m d B wn 3R
a o n ro .

Aliz a ri n He li o t ro e p . Fa st G re e n G .

Ali zari n Iri so l . Milli ng Gree n S .

Aliz ari n Pu re B lue . p

Na h t ho l G ree n B .

Aliz ari n Sa ph i rlo l .

(e) CH ROME DEVELOP ED DYE STUFF S .

Aci d Ali zari n B lac R k . Ch ro me B ro wn B O a nd R0 .

Azo Fu ch si ne B a nd G . Ch ro mo g en I .

Azo Ru i ne b . Chro mo t ro p (all b rands ) .

Ca rmo i si ne B
 A PPL I CATI O N OF M O RDAN T D Y ES TO WO OL . 191

S AMP LES .

328 . Ali zari n Blue o n w oo l ; Sh ow i ng g e ne ral me t ho d o fd yei ng .

329 . Effe ct o f i ro n i n mo rda nt b t h a .

330 . Effe ct o f i ro n m o rdant o n co lo r .

33 1 . Effe ct o f i ro n i n dye a t h -
b .

332 . Wo o l mo rdante d wi t h ch ro me .

333 . Aliz ari n Re d o n a ch ro me mo rda nt .

3 34 . Wo o l mo rdante d wi th a lu m .

335 . Ali za ri n Re d o n a lu m m o rd a nt .

336 . Wo o l mo rdant e d w i t h co pp e ra s .

337 . pp m
Alizari n Re d o n a co e ra s o rd ant .

3 38 . w bl t n
Wo o l mOrdant e d i t h ue s o e .

3 39 . Al i i n R d n bl
za r t n m
e o a ue s o e o rd a nt .

3 40 . W l m d nt d w i t h t nn
oo o r a e s a o u s chlo ri de .

341 . Al i zari n Re d o n a t in mo rdant .

3 42 a . Ant h race ne Yello w o n w oo l b e fo re ch ro mi ng .

3 42 b . Ant h ra ce ne Yello w a ft e r ch ro mi n g .

3 43 a . Aci d Ali zari n Gre e n b e fo re ch ro mi n g .

3 43b . Aci d Ali za ri n Gre e n a ft e r ch ro mi n g .

3 44 . Di a mo nd B la c k G A b f h m i ng e o re c ro .

3 45 . Di a m o nd B l k GA ft h mi ng
ac a er c ro .

3 46 . Di a m o nd Y ll w b f
e h m i ng
o e o re c ro .

3 47 . Di a mo nd Y ll w ft r h mi ng
e o a e c ro .

Q UIZ I6 .

47 1 Wh at i s t h e m o st g e ne ra ll y u se d m o rdant o n wo o l ? Ho w i s i t a ppli ed

t o t he fib re ?
47 2 . G i ve t h e g e ne ral me t ho d fo r d y i ng e t he ali z ari n co lo rs o n a ch o r me

47 3 . Wha t is ch ro me ? Of wh at a ci d i s it a salt ? In wh a t co nd i t i o n is
t h e m o rda nt e ve nt u a ll yp ro d uce d o n t he fib re ?
47 4 . Ho w i s t he re d u ct i o n o f t he ch ro me b ro u gh t b a o ut i n t h e mo rd ant i n g
b ath ?
47 5 . Wh at i s t art ar ? Ho w do e s i t a ct a s a n a ssi s t ant i n m o rdant i n g wi th
ch ro me ?
47 6 . Ho w d o i ro n salt s i n t h e mo rdant af
fe ct t he co lo rs o f a liza ri n d y es ?
Sh o uld i ro n be p re se nt i n t h e dye b th ?
-
a

47 7 . Wh at are t he p
fiv e ri n ci plm a o rd a nt s whi ch m ay b e u se d o n w oo l?
Of wh at m e t als are t he y d iv er at ive s ?
47 8 . Wh a t co lo r do e s a ch ro me mo rdant giv e o n w oo l? Wh y Sh o uld no t

ch ro me m o rdant ed wo o l b e ex po se d fo r a ny l n gt h e o f t i me t o st ro n g li gh t b e fo re

d y i ng ?
e
1 9 2 D YE N G AN D I TEXTILE CH EM IS TR Y .

479 . Wh at co lo r do es Aliza ri n Re d gi wi th
ve a ch ro me m o rda nt ? With a

co pp e ras mo rdant ?
4 80 . Wh a t is co pp e ras ? Ho w i s t hi s m o rdant a ppli ed to w oo l? In wh at

co n di t i o n w o uld the m o rd ant b e p re se nt in the fib re ? What co lo r d o e s th e

m o rd a n t gi ve t o th e w oo l?
48 1 Wh at is bl u e st o ne ? Ho w i s i t a ppli ed to w oo l as a m o rdan t ? Wh at
co lo r do es it gi ve t o th e fib re ?
482 . Wh a t co lo r do e s Alizari n Re d give wi th a CO ppe r mo rda nt ? Co m p a re

th i s co lo r w i th t h at o bt a i ne d wi th ch ro me .

483 . Wh at i s t h e t i n mo rd a nt u se d o n w oo l? Ho w i s i t appli ed ? Wh a t
co lo r do e s i t gi ve t o t he fib re ? Ho w d o e s i t afl e ct t h e ph y si ca lp p ro e rt i es o f the
fib re ?
4 84 . Wh at co lo r d o e s Aliza ri n Re d gi wi t h t i n mve a o rda nt ? Ho w d o e s
t his co lo r co m p a re w i th t h at o b t in d wi th h m ?
a e c ro e

p m d ti g Ho w ma ny
i

4 85 . Ho w i s th e ro ce s s of ft a e r -
i d
o r an n ca rr e o ut ?
b a t h s are re q u i re d ?
486 . Wh at ef
fe ct do es t he a ft e r - ch ro mi n g p ro ce ss have o n t h e co lo r o f
a nt h ra ce ne y e llo w?
487 . Wh at k i nd o f aliza ri n d y e s a re be s t a da pt ed fo r th e a ft e r -ch ro mi n g
p ro ce ss ? I wh t f
n a o rm do s u ch d y e s u s u all y co me , a nd o f wh t d t h y
a o e co n

s i st ? Ho o e w d th y
co m a re p
i t h Ord i na r a li z a ri ns a s t o so u w y l b i li t y ?
4 88 Ho w do e s t h e a ft e r ch ro mi n a ffe ct t h e co lo r o f Acid Aliza ri n Gree n ?
.
-
g
4 89 b
De s cri e t h e me t h o d o f d e i n Di a mo nd Bla c
. What are t h e ch ara cy g k .

t e ri st i cs o f th i s co lo r ?

49 0 . G i ve t h e p ro ce s s o fd y i g Di
e n a m o nd Y e llo w Wh . at i s t h e fas t ne s s
o f t h is co lo r to w a shi n g a nd a ci ds ?
49 1 In u si n g a ch ro me m o rd ant b a t h a s a s t an d i n gk e t t le h o w m u ch ch ro m e
a nd t a rt a r m u st b e a dd e d fo r s u cce ss i v e lo t s ?
49 2 . Wh y Sh o uld w o o l be w e ll w a sh e d a ft e r m o r d a n t in ? g Wh at w o uld

b e the re sult i f t hi s w n e re o t d o ne ?

49 3 . Wh a t is th p p e ro e r a m o u nt o f ch ro m e t o u se in p p re a ri n g a m o rd ant
b ath fo r a ful l sh a de ? IS t h i s a m o un t ne ce ssa r yf o r g
li h t e r Sh a d e s ?
49 4 . Why is it no t d e si ra le t o b em pl y l g
o a r e r a m o u nt s t h an 3 pe r ce nt . o f
ch ro m e i n m o r d a nt i n gw oo l? Wh a t i s t he fe ct o
ef f t o o m u ch ch ro me o u
. the
fib re i t se lf?
49 5 . Wh at o t he r su b s t a nce s b e si de s ta rta r m ay b e u se d a s a ss i s ta n t s in the
mo rda nt b at h ? Wh at are
la ct o li n e , li gno ro si n, a nd t arta r su st i t u t e ? b
49 6 . Whi ch a ssi sta nt fu rni sh e s t h e e st re su lt s ? Fo r h a t co lo rs i s la ct i cb w
a ci d a g o o d a s si s ta nt ? Wh a t i s t h e a d v a nt a g f l tie o ac c a ci d a s co m p a re d wi th
t art a r ? Wh at co lo r do e s t h e wo o l a cqu i re a c c a ci d a n d w h y ? wi th l ti ,

Wh y i s ca lci u m a ce t a t e o ft e n a dde d t o t he d ye ba t h wi th a li za ri n
'

49 7 . ' -

co lo rs ? Why i s h ard w at e r b e ne fi ci al wh e n d ye i ng ali zari n co lo rs ?

 S ECTIO N XVII .

D EVELOPED D YES ON C O TTON AN D SILK .

Expe ri m e nt 1 03 . Me t h o d o f Applyi ng De ve l o pe d
Ge ne r al
Dy e s
. Ce r t ain of t h e subs t an t iv e dy e s may b e appli e d t o co t t on
in t h e usu al mann e r and t h e n chang e d by ch e mic al t r e at m e n t in t o
,

o t h e r dy e s t uffs which may b e of a t o t ally diffe r e n t color and are ,

fre qu e n t ly much fas t e r or d e e p e r in S had e t h an t h e original color

fro m which t h e y h ave b ee n d e rive d In o t h e r words t h e dy e s t uff
.
,

is buil t up wi t hin t h e fibre i t se lf j us t as ordinary dy e s t u ffs ar e

form e d wi t hou t r e fe r e nc e t o t h e fibr e This class of subs t an t iv e
.

“ ” “ ”
dy e s is known as t h e d e v e lop e d or di az o t i ze d colors fro m ,

t h e ch e mical proc e ss e s t hrough which t h e y pass Th e s e dy e s .

form a ra t h e r impor t an t class of colors t h e v al u e and adap t abili t y

,

of which ar e cons t an t ly growing Primulin e was t h e firs t of.

t h e s e dy e s discov e r e d and is s t i ll t h e mos t impor t an t o ne i n u s e

,

and may b e t ak e n as t h e t yp e of t h e e n t ir e class Dy e a t e s t .

sk e in of co tt on yarn in a bat h con t aining 6 p e r c e n t of Primulin e .

,

2 0 p e r c e n t of s al t and 1 p e r c e n t of sod a ash ; e n t e r a t 1 4 0 F

°
. .
,

gradually rais e t o t h e boil and dy e a t t hat t e mp e rat ur e for o ne

h alf hour It will b e no t i c e d t hat t his is simply t h e g e n e ral
.

m e t hod for applying subs t an t ive dy e s and t hat t h e color ob t ain e d

,

is y e llow R ins e t h e sk e in in fr e sh wat e r and pass in t o a

cold b at h con t aining 5 p e r c e n t of sodium n i t ri t e and 6 p e r c e n t
. .

of sulphuric acid ; work for abou t 1 0 minu t e s It will b e no t e d .

t hat t h e y e llow color of t h e d y e is al t e r e d t o a brown i sh y e llow

(3 4 9 ) by t his t re at m e n t and if t h e odor of t h e bat h is obs e rv e d

,

t h e pr e s e nc e of ni t rous ac i d wi ll b e no t e d R ins e t h e sk e in wi t h
.

cold wat e r and i m m e di a t e ly pass int o a t hird b at h con t ai ning

,

r c e n t of b e t a naph t h ol solu t ion ; work cold for 1 minu t s

2
p e
5 e
-
.
,

t h e n wash w e ll and dry Wh e n plac e d in t h e t h ird b at h i t

w i ll b e no t ic e d t hat t h e sk e in t urns a brigh t re d color which is d u e ,
 D E VEL O P ED D Y ES ON CO TTO N AN D S ILK .
5

t o t h e ne w dy e s t u ff which has t hus b e e n form e d wi t hin t he fi br e .

In t h e fi rst bat h t h e Pr imulin e ac t s m e re ly as a subs t an t iv e d y e ,

and giv e s a y e llow color which posse ss e s no fas t n e ss and is uni m

“ ”
por t an t The s e cond solu t ion is t e rm e d t h e di az o t i z ing b at h
. .

Th e ac t ion of t h e sodium ni t ri t e on t h e sul phuric acid is t o lib e r at e

ni t rous acid and form sodium sulphat e ; t h e ni t rous acid ac t s
on t h e dy e s t u ff in such a mann e r t hat t he amido groups (N H ) ,
“ ”
pr e se n t are change d in t o wh at are known as di az o groups ,

N N This di az o group combin e s wi t h t he sulphuric acid

.

pr e se n t in t he b at h and forms primulin e di az o sulphat e Th e - -

.

diaz o body is qui t e uns t abl e h e nc e t h e b at h must b e e mploy e d

,

cold and t he co t t on must b e pass e d from t his b at h as soon as

,

possibl e in t o t h e t hird b at h for if t h e di azo t i z e d mat e ri al is

,

allow e d t o s t and for any l e ng t h of t im e e sp e ci ally if e xpos e d t o ,

s t rong ligh t t h e di az o body will d e compose and t h e e ve n t u al

,

color wi ll b e spoil e d Th e di azo t i z ing b at h S hould sm e ll dis

.

t i nc t ly of ni t rous acid and if such i s no t t h e c as e mor e sodi um

, ,

ni t ri t e and acid S hould b e add e d Car e should b e t ak e n t hat t his .

b at h do e s no t b e com e h e at e d by l e aky s t e am pip e s e t c Som e

—
,
.

t im e s i n fac t i ce i s add e d t o t his b a t h for t h e purpos e of k e e ping

, ,

t h e t em p e ra t ur e down (h e nc e t h e s e colors ar e so m e t im e s spok e n

“
of as i ce b u t if t h e b at h i s k e p t a t t he ordinary t e m
( F ) no ar ificial cooling is
°
p e r a t u r e of wa t e r abou t 6 0 t o 7 0 t n ec e
. s
“ ”
sary Th e t hird b at h is t e rm e d t h e d e ve loping b at h and t h e
.
,

”
b e t a naph t hol (or o t h e r lik e body ) i s spok e n of as t h e d e ve lop e r
-
.

It s func t ion is t o combin e wi t h t h e uns t abl e di az o body t o giv e .

t h e ne w and p e rman e n t coloring mat t e r This b at h Should also

-
.

b e cold , o t h e rwis e t h e di az o body on firs t e n t e ring t h e b at h will

b e d e compos e d b e for e i t has had a chanc e t o b e com e fix e d by t h e
d e ve lop e r B e t a naph t hol is no t v e ry solubl e in wat e r (e sp e cially
.
-

cold wa t e r ) h e nc e b e for e adding i t t o t h e b at h i t is advisabl e t o

, ,

dissolve i t in a li tt l e h o t wat e r t og e t h e r wi t h i t s w e igh t of sod a

ash or caust ic sod a and add t his solu t ion t o t h e d e v e loping b at h
, ,
.

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 0 4 Sh o wi ng t h e A c ti o n o f He a t o n t h e Di a zo
.

B o dy . Dye a sk e in of co tt on yarn as b e for e wi t h 6 p e r c e n t .

of Primulin e ; rinse and di az o t i z e in a b at h con t ai ning 5 pe r c e n t .

1 9 6 I
D YE N G A N D T EX TILE CHEMIS TR Y .

of sodium ni t ri t e and 6 pe r c e n t of sulphuric acid ; work for .

1 0 minu t e s a t a t e mp e rat ur e of 1 80 F
°
t h e n rins e and pass in t o .
, ,

t h e d e ve loping bat h pr e pare d as above d e scrib e d ; work cold for

1 0 minu t e s t h e n wash and dry

, Compar e t he color ob t ain e d
on t his sk e in wi t h t hat on t he o ne in t h e pre vious e xp e r i m e n t .

Dy e ano t h e r sk e in of co t t on yarn wi t h 6 p e r c e n t of Primulin e as .

b e fore and di azo t i ze cold as in t he pr e vious e xp e rim e n t Th e n

, .

wash t h e sk e in in h o t wat e r for 1 0 minu t e s and aft e rwards ,

d e v e lop as alr e ady d e scrib e d in t h e b e t a naph t hol b at h cold for -

1 0 minu t e s No t ic e t h e influ e nc e of t h e h o t washing on

t h e e ve n t ual color Dy e ano t h e r sk e in wi t h 6 p e r c e n t of Pri mu
. .

lin e as b e for e ; di az o t i z e cold and e xpos e t o t h e air for s e ve ral

,

hours t h e n d e ve lop as us u al in t h e b e t a naph t hol b at h cold for -

1 0 minu t e s No t i c e t h e influ e nc e of t h e long e xposur e on

t h e color .

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 0 5 De ve lo pe d B l a ck o n Co tt on
. Al t hough .

t h e r e ar e s e v e r al black dy e s among t h e subs t an t iv e colors y e t ,

t h e y do no t yi e ld v e ry sa t isfac t ory colors e i t h e r as r e gards d e p t h

Of t on e or fas t n e ss t o bl e e ding wh e n dy e d dir ec t ly Som e O f .

t h e s e may b e di az o t i z e d and d e ve lop e d how e v e r and so produc e , ,

black colors of gre at b e au t y and fast n e ss Dy e a sk e in of co t t on .

y arn in a b at h con t aining 6 pe r c e n t of Diamin e B l ack B H 2 0 p e r .

,

c e n t of common s al t and 1 pe r c e n t of soda ash ; e n t e r a t 1 40 F

.
,
.
°

gradually rais e t o t h e boil and dye a t t hat t e mp e rat ur e for o ne

,

h al f hour ; rins e and diazo t i ze as usual and t h e n d e ve lop ,

'

wi t h 2 pe r c e nt o f ph e nyl e n e di amin e in sam e mann e r as e mploy e d

.
-

for b e t a naph t hol ; wash w e ll and dry

-
P h e nyl e n e di amin e
—
'

is b e st dissolv e d pr e viously t o i t s addi t ion t o t h e b at h i n a li t t l e

soda ash Te s t t h e black t hus ob t ai n e d for fast n e ss t o washing
.

and cross dy e ing Also pr e s e rv e a sampl e of t h e color b e for e

-
.

diazo t i z at ion and compar e i t in t on e O f color wi t h t h e d e ve lop e d

,

dy e ing ; al so t e s t t h e fas t n e ss of t h e dir e c t dy e ing t o washing (3 5 6 )

and cross dye ing -
and compar e t h e s e r e sul t s wi t h t h os e for
t h e d e v e lop e d dy e ing .

Ex pe ri m e nt 1 0 6 Dy e i ng Pri m u li ne o n Silk
. Som e of t h e .

d e v e lop e d dy e s are ve ry sui t able for t h e dy e ing of fas t colors on

1 98 D Y EI N G AN D TEXTILE CHEM IS TR Y .

It must b e born e in mind t hat d e v e lop e d colors r e quir e t hr e e

diffe r e n t op e rat ions and as many diffe r e n t b at hs ; t his n e c e ssi t at e s ,

of cours e a t riple handling of t h e co t t on and t h e r e for e a gr e at e r

,

e xp e ns e t h an wh e n dy e ing t h e subs t an t iv e colors al on e Th e r e .

is no t hing di ffe r e n t in t h e firs t dy e ing proc e ss of t h e d e v e lop e d

colors b e yond t hat of t h e ordinary sub st an t ive dy e s which have ,

al r e ady b ee n di scuss e d Th e s e cond op e rat ion t hat of di az o

.
,

t i z i ng is t h e sam e for all t h e d e v e lop e d colors and consis t s in

, ,

working t h e dy e d and rins e d co t t on in a cold b at h con t aining

sodium ni t ri t e and hydrochloric acid ; t h e op e rat ion r e quir e s only
1 0 t o 1 5 minu t e s Aft e r di az o t i z ing i t is w e ll t o r i ns e t he goods
.

in wat e r Sligh t ly acidulat e d wi t h hydrochloric acid Th e t hird .

op e rat ion t hat of d e ve loping is al so don e in a cold b at h and

, ,

r e quire s only from 1 0 t o 1 5 minu t e s ; t h e kind of d e v e lop e r

us e d d e p e nding on t h e d ye st u fi e mploy e d an d t he color d e sir e d .

A diaz o t i z ing b at h for 1 0 pounds of co tt on c an b e pre

par e d wi t h 5 lb sodium ni t ri t e and i lb hydrochloric acid
.
t .

( of 3 2
°
sulphuric acid may b e us e d in plac e of
hydrochloric in which cas e o nl y 5 lb of acid (of 1 6 8 Tw )
,
.
°
.

is e mploy e d In pr e paring t h e b at h t he ni t ri t e Should first

.

b e dissolv e d in som e wa t e r add e d t o t h e b at h aft e r which

, ,

t h e acid i s add e d For s t anding b at hs o nl y o ne t hird of t h e

.
-

abov e m e n t ion e d qu an t i t i e s is us e d In ord er t o asc e r t ain if

-
.

t h e dia z o t i z ing b at h is s t ill ac t ive dip in t o i t a pi e c e of pap e r

,

impr e gnat e d wi t h s t arch pas t e and po t assium iodid e which ,

should at onc e t urn blu e Wh e n working t h e b at h i t should.

sm e ll dis t inc t ly of ni t rous acid t hough t h e odo r S hould no t b e t o o

,

punge n t which would indicat e an e xc e ss of ni t ri t e This is no t

,
.

n e c e ssarily injurio us b u t Should b e avoid e d for r e asons of

,

e conomy Th e di az o t i z ing is b e s t conduc t e d in wood e n v e ss e ls

.
,

t hough wh e n dy e ing in machin e s t h e di az o t i z ing and d e v e loping

may t ak e plac e in copp e r v e ss e ls It is no t n e c e ssary t o hydro .

e x t r ac t or wring o u t aft e r diaz o t i z ing ; t h e goods ar e all ow e d t o

drain are t h e n rins ed sligh t ly in wat e r acidulat e d wi t h 1 pin t of

,

hydrochloric acid t o 1 0 0 gallons and t h e n e n t e re d dir e c t ly in t o

,

t he d e v e loping b at h It is also import an t t o r e m e mb e r t hat t h e

.
 D E VEL O P ED D Y ES ON CO TTO N AN D S ILK . 1 99

diaz o t i z e d goods S hould no t b e l e ft st anding for any l e ng t h of

t im e b u t t h e rinsing and d e v e loping S hould proc e e d imm e di a t e ly
,

aft e r t h e diaz o t i z ing E sp e ci al c ar e should b e t ak e n no t t o

.

e xpos e t h e di az o t i z e d color t o glaring ligh t or t o any sourc e of

h e at Th e d e v e loping b at h is pr e pare d wi t h cold wat e r and t h e

.

r e quisi t e amoun t of d e v e lop e r in solu t ion Th e goods are t urn e d .

a fe w t im e s in t his bat h t h e n t ak e n o u t and rins e d o ff Th e ,

.

b e t a naph t hol solu t ion for d e v e loping may b e pr e par e d con

-

v e ni e n t l by dissolving lbs of b e t a naph t hol and

y 7 3 o zs -
. .

6 lbs c aus t ic soda (of 7 7 Tw ) in 1 0 g al lons of boiling wa t e r ;

.
°
.

for e ach 1 0 lbs of co tt on d e v e lop e d u se 1 3 pin t s of t hi s solu

.

t ion . For ph e nyl e n e diamin e or t oluyl e n e di amin e disso lv e

- -
,

4 5 lbs of t h e s alt wi t h 1 5 lbs of sod a ash in 1 0 gallo n s

. .

of boiling wat e r and 1 5 pin t s o f t his solu t ion is suffi ci e n t for

,

1 0 lbs of co t t on If t h e b at hs are us e d r e p e at e dly t h e above

. .
,

quan t i t i e s ar e us e d for t h e fi rs t t w o t o t hr e e lo t s afte r which only ,

i
t h r e e fo u r t h s t h e amoun t s ar e t ak e n Th e a mo u nt o f wat e r in .
'

t h e di az o t i z ing and d e v e loping b a t hs S hould b e abou t 2 0 t im e s

t h e w e igh t of t h e co tt on An addi t ion of blu e s t on e t o t h e di az o
.

t i z 1 ng b at h incr e as e s t h e fas t n e ss t o ligh t of t h e color in mos t

c as e s ; for such purpos e how e v e r i t is b e s t t o giv e an aft e r , ,

t r e at m e n t wi t h blu es t on e af t e r d e v e loping by passing t h e good s ,

t hrough a cold or luk e warm b at h con t aining 3 p e r c e n t of blu e .

s t on e and 3 p e r c e n t of ac e t ic acid and t h e n rinsing Aft e r

.
,
.

d e v e lopm e n t or aft e r t r e at m e n t t h e co tt on is usu ally soap e d o r

-

O il e d for t h e purpos e of soft e ning De ve lop e d dy e i ng may b e .

-

t opp e d wi t h basic dy e s in t h e sam e mann e r as t h e dir e c t dy e ing s

wi t h sub s t an t iv e colors .

.2 Li s t o f t h e Pri nci pal De v e lo pe d Dy e s .

D i am i ne Azo B la c k . D i a m i no g e ne B lue .

Di a mi ne Azo B lu e . Di a mi no g e ne e xt ra .

D i a mi ne B la c k . Di ani l Da r k B lue .

Di a mi ne B lu e B la c k . D i azo B la c k (all b ra nds) .

Di a m i ne B ro nze . Di azo B lue .

Di am i ne B ro wn . D i azo B lue Black .

Di a mi ne Ca t e ch i ne . D i azo B o rde aux .

Dia m ino gene . Di azo B ro wn .

 2 00 D YE N G AN D I TEX TILE CHEMIS TR Y
LI ST OF TH E PRIN CI AL
P DEVEL OP ED DY ES .
—
C o nt i n ue d .

Di azo B rilli a nt B lac k . O xami ne B la c kA .

Di azo Da r k Blu e . O xa m i ne Vi o le t .

D i az o F as t B la c k . Po lych ro mi ne A a nd B .

Di az o Indi o B lue g . Pri muli ne ( all b ra n d s ) .

Di azo Ru bi
ne . Th io ch ro mo ge ne .

Di az uri ne B . y
To lu le ne B lue Bla c k .

D i azyl B la c k Z mb
a e si B lac k .

Di re ct I di g
n o B lue . Z mb
a e si B lue .

He ss i a n B o rd e a ux . Za m b e si wn
B ro .

Indi g o B lue B . Za m be si G y ra .

Me lano ge n B lue BH . Za m be si Indi g Bl o ue .

Me la nthe ri ne .

S AMP LES .

Pri m uli ne b e fo re d iazo t i z i n g .

Pri mu li ne a ft e r d i a zo t i z i n g .

Pri m u li ne a ft e r de v e lo pm e nt .

Pri m uli ne wh en di a zo t ize d i n h o t b ath .

Di azo t i ze d Pri m uli ne h e at e d b e fo re d e v e lo pm e nt .

Di azo t i ze d Pri m uli ne e x o se d t o li h t p g .

Di a m i ne B la c EH e fo re d e d d i re ct k b y .

Di a m i ne B la c k BH di az o t i ze d a nd d eve lo p ed .

Wa sh i ng t e st fo r di azo t iz e d bl k ac ,
a nd bf e o re d i azo t iz i n g .

Cro s s - dye t e s t fo r di azo t ize d bl k ac ,

a nd b f e o re di azo ti z i ng .

Pri m uli ne k o n sil .

De v e lo p d bl k
e ac o n Sil k wi th Z mb a e si B la c kD .

Q U IZ I7 .

5 05 . Wh at are d e ve lo p ed o r di azo t i z e d co lo rs ? To wh t g a e ne ra l cla ss o f

d y es do t h e yb e lo n g?
5 06 . Wh at w as t h e fi t rs d e ve lo p d dy e e s t uf
f d i sco v e re d ? Wh a t i s t he
g e ne ra l p i n i pl
r c e o f d y i ng t h e e d eve l p d dy
o e es ?
507 . Wh a t co lo r d o e s Pri m u li ne v e gi wh en d y e d a s a n o rdi nar y b t nti
su s a ve

d ye ? Wh at cha nge i n co lo r 1 8 no t i ce d o n di a z o t i z i n ? g O n d eve l pi g ?

o n

5 08 . Of wh at do e s t h e d i a z o t i z i n gb a t h co ns i st ? To wh at i s t he o do r o f
t his b at h due ? Wh a t ch e m i ca l re a ct i o n ta k pl
es ace b twe e en t he co n s t i t u e nt s

o f thi s b ath

5 09 W
h at i s t h e a m i d o
.
“ ”
gro u p ? Wh at i s the a cti o n o f ni t ro u s a ci d o n

i t ? Wh a t IS t h e di azo
“ ”
ro g u p?
51 0 . Wh y i s t h e di azo t i z i g b
n at h u se d co ld ? Why a re t h e d i azo t i ze d

co lo rs so me t i me s S o pk en o f as “
i ce co lo rs
”
?
202 D YEIN G AN D TEXTILE CHEM IS TR Y .

530 . Ho w a re t h e so lut i o ns o f ph nyl n

e e e a nd y
t o lu le ne -d i a

fo r a dev e lo p
er ? Wh a t qu ant i t y is ne e de d fo r 10 lb s . o f co t t o n ?
53 1 . May t he d ev e lo pi g b
n ath be u se d a s a s t a nd i n g k ttl i
e e

p p ro o rt i o nal a mo u nt s o f de v e lo p e r a re ta k en fo r s u ccee d i ng b t h a

532 . What p p
ro o rt i o n o f w at e r Sh o u ld be em pl y
o ed i n t h e di
d eve lo p ing b at h s ?
533 . Ho w may an a ft e r t re a t me nt wi t h blue sto ne
-
be gi ve n

dy i ng ? M y
e s a de v elo p ed d y i ng
e s b e to pp ed wi th b asi c d y e s,

wh t m nn ?
a a er
 S ECT I O N X VIII .

S ULPH UR D YES ON C O TTON .

Ex pe ri m e nt 1 08 . Ge n e r al Me t h o d o f Applyi n g Sulph u r Dy es .

Pr e par e a bat h con t aining 5 p e r c e n t of Imm e di al B rown B 5 pe r .

,

c e n t of sodium sulphid e 5 p e r c e n t of sod a ash and 2 5 p e r c e n t

.
,
.
, .

O f common sal t -
Dy e a sk e in of co tt on yarn in t his b at h e n t e ring
.
,

a t 1 40
°
F gradually rais e t o t h e boil and dye a t t hat t e mp e rat ur e,

for o ne half hour ; wash and dry

-
It will b e no t ic e d t hat
t h e d y e b at h do e s no t e xhaus t v e ry w e ll so d y e a s e cond sk e in
-
,

(3 6 1 ) of co t t on yarn in t h e sam e b a t h wi t hou t adding any fur t h e r

dy e s t u ff or ch e mic al s only dilu t ing t h e b at h t o i t s original vol
,

u m e wi t h wa t e r Also d y e a t hird sk e in (3 6 2 ) in t h e sam e mann e r

. .

Compar e t h e colors on t h e t hr e e sk e ins t h e gradat ion of which ,

will S how t h e comparat iv e e xhaus t ion of t he b at h .

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 0 9 Af t e r tre atm e n t o f Su l ph ur Dy e s wi t h
.
-

Ch r o m e . An aft e r t r e a t m e n t wi t h chrom e is som e t im e s give n

-

in ord e r t o O b t ain a fas t e r color Dye a sk e in of co t t on yarn wi t h

.

c n t of Imm dia l B rown B in t h e sam e mann e r a s a bov

5 p e r e . e e

d e scrib e d ; squ e e z e rins e and t r e a t in a fr e sh b at h con t ai ning

, ,

2 p e r c e n t of chrom e and 3 p e r c e n t O f ac e t ic a cid ; boil for 1

. .
5
minu t e s ; wash w e ll and dry Comp ar e t h e color of t hi s
sk e in wi t h t h e corr e sponding o ne in t h e pr e vious e xp e rim e n t a nd
no t e t h e e ff e c t O f t h e aft e r t re at m e n t on t h e t on e of t h e color
-
.

Also t e st t h e fas t n e ss of t h e s e t wo dy e ings t o washing and cross

dy e ing 3 66 3 67 ) .

Ex pe ri m e nt 1 1 0 Ob t ai ni n g B l ack wi t h Su lph u r Dy e s
. Dy e .

a sk e in of co t t on yarn in a b at h con t aining 1 5 p e r c e n t of Sulphur .

B l ack A e x t ra 1 5 p e r c e n t of sodium sulphid e 5 p e r c e n t of sod a

,
.
,
.

ash and 50 p e r c e n t of common sal t ; e n t e r at 1 40 F gradually

,
.
-
°

raise t o t h e boil and d y e at t hat t e mp e rat ur e for o ne h al f hour ;

,
-

wash w e ll and t r e at in a b at h con t aining 2 pe r c e n t of olive O i l

,
.
2 04 I
D YE N G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

e muls i on ; t h e n rinse and dry Te s t t h e color of t h i s sk e i n

for fas t n e ss t o washing (3 69 ) and cross dy e ing -

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 1 1 Use o f Au t o ge n e B la ck
. This sulp h ur d y e .

do e s no t r e qu i r e t h e addi t ion of sodium sulphid e t o t h e ba t h .

Dy e a sk e i n of co t t on yarn in a b at h con t aining 50 pe r c e n t of .

°
s al t and 1 5 pe r c e n t of Au t og e n e B lack ; e n t e r a t 1 40 F
.

gradually rais e t o t h e bo i l and d ye a t t hat t e mp e rat ur e for t h r e e

,

qu ar t e rs hour ; wash w e ll and t h e n soap in a warm d ilu t e solu t ion

,

of soap ; rinse and dry This black giv e s a color much

r e s e mbling An i lin e B l ack T e st t h e fas t n e ss of t h e color t o .

washing (3 7 2 ) and cross dy e ing Comp ar e t he color of

-

t h e s e sulphur blacks wi t h t ha t ob t ain e d wi t h d e v e lope d dy e ings ,

and al so compar e t h e fas t n e ss of t h e colors .

NOTES .

1 . Use o f t h e Su l ph u r Dy e s
colors b e long t o t h e — Th e s e
g e n e ral group of subs t an t ive co t t on dy e s and ar e of rat h e r r e c e n t
in t roduc t ion Th e y ar e so c all e d b e c aus e t h e y consis t of sulphur
.

compounds and ar e dy e d as a rul e wi t h t h e addi t ion of sodium

, , ,

sulph i d e t o t h e b at h Th e firs t of t h e s e dy e s was discov e r e d in

.

1 86 7 by t w o Fr e nch ch e mist s and was known as Cachou d e ,

L aval ; i t was pr e p ar e d by fusing wood S havings and sawdus t

wi t h sodium sulphid e or sulphur AS i t had b u t li t t l e t inc t ori al .

pow e r i t was no t a succ e ss as a dy e s t uff During t h e pas t d e cad e .

,

how e v e r a larg e nu mb e r of t h e se dy e s hav e app e ar e d in almos t

,

all colors wi t h t h e e xc e p t ion of r e d and e ve n during t h e p ast y e ar ,

a SO c all e d sulphur re d d ye has b e e n brough t o u t b u t i t is far

-
,

from b e ing a pur e re d color We h av e sulphur blacks browns .

, ,

blu e s y e llows and gr e e ns Th e sulphur colors are e sp e ci ally

, ,
.

r e markabl e for t h e ir fast n e ss t o washing and e v e n fulling as w e ll ,

as acids in cross dy e ing Th e y al so furnish d e e p h e avy shad e s

—
.
,

on co tt on Th e y are mos t ly dy e d in a b at h con t aining sodium

.

sulphid soda ash common sal t and m any of t h e m may b e a ft e r

e ,
—
, ,

t r e at e d wi t h chrom e or blu e s t on e w i t h consid e rabl e improve m e n t

as t o t h e ir fas t n e ss Th e sodium sulp hi d e is for t h e purpos e of

.

dissolving and in som e cas e s of r e ducing t h e dy e s t uff (in t h e case

2 06 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

of sal t s whic h are pr e s en t i n s t anding k e t t l e s i t is b e s t t o ~use

hydrom e t e r t e s t s ; for blacks t h e cold d y e l i quor S hould s t and a t
8 t o 1 0 Tw b u t for blu e s and o t h e r Colors i t S hould no t e xc e e d
°
.
,

4 t o 5 T°
w I t S hould
. b e born e in mind t ha t 1 0 par t s of common
sal t are e quiv al e n t t o 1 2 p ar t s of calcin e d glau b e r s al t or t o 2 4 par t s
of t he crys t alli z e d glau b e r s alt In sp e ci al cas e s glucose d e xt rin .
,

and Turk e y oil r e d are add e d t o t h e b at h in ord e r t o s e cur e b e t t e r

-

e xhaus t ion and b e t t e r p e n e t ra t ion of t h e goods In n e arly all .

c as e s t h e sulphu r dy e s may b e dy e d in a boiling b at h t hough j us t ,

und e r t h e boil is a b e t t e r prac t ic e ; in t h e cas e of som e blu e dy e s ,

t h e t e mp e ra t ur e of t h e b at h S hould no t b e ov e r 8 5 F Th e °
.

sulphur colors may al so b e dy e d v e ry w e ll in luk e warm or e ve n

cold b at hs Aft e r dy e ing i t is impor t an t t hat t h e goods b e w e ll
.

squ e e z e d and t horoughly rins e d imm e diat e ly aft e r coming from

t h e d y e b at h in ord e r t o pr e v e n t t h e pr e cipi t a t ion of u nfixe d
-
,

d y e s t u ff sup e rfici al ly on t h e fibr e ; t his give s ris e t o mor e e v e n

-

S had e s and t h e colors a re fas t e r t o rubbing Wi t h som e of t h e .

blu e s i t is n e c e ssary t o oxidi ze t he color aft e r dy e ing ; t his may

b e don e by squ e e z ing and hanging in t h e air or by s t e aming in ,

t h e air .

2 . Li st of t h e Pri n ci pal Su l ph u r Dy e s .

(a ) O RAN G E .

Ecli p se O ra n g e . P y g
ro e ne O ra n g e

Imme di a l O ra n g e . Th i o ge ne O ran g e .

(b ) Y ELLOW .

Ecli p se Ye llo w . Py g ro e ne Ye llo w .

Imm e di al Ye llo w . Th i o ge ne G o lde n Y e llo w .

K r yo ge ne Ye llo w . Thi o ge ne Ye llo w .

Ecli p se Gre e n . K a t i ge ne O li ve .

Ecli p se O li ve . K ryo ge ne O li ve .

Imme d i al G re e n . Nigro sulphi ne .

Im me di al O li ve . Py gn
ro
'
e e O li ve .

K a t i ge ne Ch ro me B lue 5 G . Py g n
ro e e G ree n .

K a t i ge ne G ree n .
 S ULP H UR D Y ES ON C O TTO N . 07

(d) B LUE .

Ecli p se B lue . Py g n B l
ro e e ue .

Imme di al B lue . Py g n Di
ro t e e re c B lue .

Imme di al Di re ct B lu e . Py g n Indi g
ro e e o B lue .

Im m e di al Indo ne . S lph
u Bl ur ue .

Imme d i al Pu re Blu e . Th i o ge ne Blue .

Im m e di a l Pure B lue . Th io ge ne C y ani ne .

Im m e di a l Sky B lue . Th i o ge ne Dar k B lue .

K a t i ge ne Ch ro me B lue . T h io gene Di re ct Blue .

K a t i ge ne Indi g o . Tb i o g e ne V i o let .

K ryo ge ne B lu e . Th i o n B lue .

Melano ge ne B lue .

(e) B ROWN .

Ca ch o u d e L a va l . Pyr o l B ro wn .

Ecli p se B ro nz e . Sul ph ani l B ro wn .

Ecli p se B ro wn . Sulpho ge ne B wn ro .

Im m e di al B ro nze . p
Sul h ur B ro wn .

Imme di al B ro wn . Thi o ca t e ch i ne .

Imm e di a l D k B wn
ar ro . Th i o ge ne B ro wn .

K at i ge ne B l k B wn
ac ro . Thi o ge ne Ca t e ch u .

K at i ge ne B w ro n . Th i o ge ne Dar kR ed .

K at i ge ne Ch m B w n
ro e ro . Th i o ge ne K h ki a .

K at i ge n e Y ll w B w n
e o ro . Th io n B ro wn .

K r yo ge ne B wn
ro . V ulcan B ro wn .

P y g
ro e ne B rOwn .

(f) B LACK .

Ant h ra q ui no ne B la c k . Pyro l B la c k .

k
Au ro nal B la c . Sul ph anil B la c k .

A t g
u o Bl k
e ne ac . p
Sul h ur Bla c k .

C Dy B l k
ro s s - e ac Su lp h ur B lu e B la c k .

E li p B l k
c se ac . Th i o ca rb o ne .

Imm di l B l k
e a ac . Thi o ge ne B la c k .

K t i g n Bl k
a e e ac . Th io ge ne B la c k L i q ui d .

K a t i ge ne B lu e Bla c k . Th io ge ne Co al B la c k .

K ryo ge ne B la c k . Th io ge ne Di a mo nd B lack .

Me lano ge ne . Thi o n B la c k .

M e rca pt o l B la c k . Th io nal B lac k .

Py gnro e e B lac k . p
Th i o h e no l B la c k .

Py g n
ro e e G ra y . Vi dal Bla c k .
208 D YE N G AN D I TEX TILE CHEM IS TR Y .

S AM P LES .

Imme di al B ro w n o n co t t o n ; g e ne ra l me t ho d ; fi rst b at h .

Imme di a l B ro wn ; se co nd b at h .

Imm e di al B ro wn ; t hi rd b at h .

Im m e di al B ro wn
wi t h ,
a ft e r - t re a t e d ch ro me .

W hi ng t t Imm di l B wn b f
as es e a ro e o re ch ro mi n g .

W h i ng t t Imm di l B w ft
as es e a ro n a e r ch ro min g .

C dy t t Imm d i l B w b f
ro ss - e es e a ro n e o re ch ro m in g .

C d y t t Im m di l B w
ro ss - e es ft e a ro n a e r ch ro mi n g .

S lph
u Bl k A
ur t tt
ac e x ra o n co o n .

W hi ng t t S lph Bl k A t
as es u ur ac e x ra .

C d y t t S l ph
ro ss - e Bl k A
es t u ur ac e x ra.

A t g n Bl k
u o e e tt n ac o n co o .

W hi ng t t A t g
as Bl k
es u o e ne ac .

C dy t t A t g
ro ss - e Bl k
es u o e ne ac .

Q U IZ I8 .

5 34 . G i ve t h e g e ne ral m e t ho d fo r t h e d yi ge n o f s ul h u r p co lo rs o n co tto n .

5 35 . Do e s t h e d ye -
b at h with sul ph u r co lo rs e xh a u s t w e ll ? Ho w m ay t h i s
be Sh o w n?

5 36 . Wh a t i s t he purpo se o f a fte r t re ati ng su lph u r dye s wi t h ch ro m e ?

-
Ho w
i s t he p ro ce ss ca rri e d o u t ?
5 37 . Ho w w a s t he co lo r o f Imm e di al B ro w n af
fe cte d by t h e t re a t me nt with
ch ro me ?
5 38 . What di ffe re n ce wa s no t i ce d i n t h e fa st ne s s o f the u nt re a t e d a n d t he
ch ro med d y i g wi th
e n s Imm e di al B ro wn as to w as h i n g a nd cro ss -d y i g?
e n

Ho w w e re t h e se t e st s ca rri e d o u t ?
5 39 . Ho w i s Su l h u r Blac p k A e x t ra d y e d o n co t to n ? Wh a t ch ara ct e r o f
bl k d
ac o es it yi e ld ? Wha t i s t he p p ur o se o f o ili n g th e co tto n a ft e r d y i g?
e n

5 40 . Wha t i s t h e fast ne s s o f S lph u ur B la c k A e x t ra to w a shi n g a nd cro ss

d y i g?
e n

54 1 . Ho w d o e s t h e d yi g
e n o f Au t o g e ne B la c k di ff f m t h t f th p
er ro a o e re

v i o ns co lo r ? Wh at i s the ch a ra ct e r o f the bl k bt i d ? Wh t i i t
ac O a ne a s s

fa st ne ss t o w a shi n g a nd cro ss —d y i g?
e n

5 42 . Ho w do the co lo r a nd t h e fa st ne ss o f the su l ph ur bl k ac s co m p a re

wi th t h o se o f t h e d eve lo p d bl k
e ac s?

5 43 . T0 wh t g a e n e ra l g pd ro u o t h e s ul h ur co lo p rs b e lo n g? Wh a t w as t h e
fi rs t s u l ph ur d ye di s co ve re d ? Ho w wa s i t p p re a re d ?
5 44 . Ha ve t h e s ul ph ur co lo rs b een in g e ne ra l u se fo r a ny g
le n t h o f time ?
Wh y a re the y ca lle d sul ph u r co lo rs ?
5 45 . g wh t
Th ro u h a ra n e o g f co lo rs do t h e su l ph ur d y es at p re s e n t e xt e nd

5 46 . B y wh t p p a ro e rt i e s a re t he s ul h u r d p y e s ch a ra ct e r i ze d ?
 SE CTI O N X I X .

USE o r L OGWOOD IN DYEIN G .

Expe ri m e nt 1 1 2 . Ge n e r al Me t h o d of Dy e i n g Lo gwo o d o n

Wo ol . M ordan t four t e s t sk e ins of woole n yarn in t h e usual

-

mann e r wi t h 3 p e r c e n t of chrom e and 4 pe r c e n t of t ar t ar ; wash

. .

w e ll Dye t h e first sk e in in a b at h con t aining 2 pe r c e n t of log

. .

wood e x t rac t (solid ) ; e n t e r a t 1 40 F gradually rais e t o t h e

°
.
,

boil and d ye at t hat t e mp e rat ur e for t hr e e quar t e rs hour t h e n

,
-
,

wash w e ll and dry Dy e t h e s e cond sk e in in a b at h con

t aining 5 p e r c e n t of logwood e x t rac t in t h e sam e mann e r
.

Dye t h e t hird sk e in in t h e sam e way wi t h 1 5 p e r c e n t of logwood .

e x t rac t Th e low e r p e rc e n t ag e s of logwood give bluish

shad e s on a chrom e mordan t which d e e p e n in t o a bluish blac k in
,

t h e h e avy p e rc e n t ag e Dye t h e four t h sk e in in a b at h con t aining

.

a d e coc t ion mad e by boiling 5 0 p e r c e n t of chipp e d logwood in .

3 00 cc of
. wa t e r N o t ic e t ha t a t fi rs t t h e d y e b a t h is of a -

r e ddish color b u t t hat t h e black d e v e lops on boiling

,
.

Expe ri m e nt 1 1 3 Effe ct of Ove r Ch ro m i ng

.
-
Mordan t a t e st .

sk e in of wool e n yarn wi t h 1 0 p e r c e n t of chrom e and 4 p e r c e n t

. .

of t ar t ar in t h e usual mann e r ; wash w e ll and d ye in t h e mann e r ,

d e scrib e d abov e wi t h I 5 p e r c e n t of logwood e xt rac t . It

will b e found t hat only a gray color is produc e d ; t hi s i s t he r e sul t
of e mploying t o o much chrom e wh e r e by t h e fibr e b e com e s
oxidi z e d and los e s i t s a ffini t y for t h e dy e s t u ff It may al so b e .

prob abl e t hat t h e e xc e ss of chrom e has som e injurio us ac t ion on

t h e logwood i t s e lf .

Expe ri m e n t 1 1 4 Sh a di ng Lo gwo o d wi t h Ali za ri n Yell o w

. .

This is for t h e purpos e of ob t aining a d e e p black wi t hou t t h e

bluish t on e of t h e s t raigh t logwood black M ordan t a sk e in of .

wool e n yarn in t he usu al mann e r wi t h 3 pe r c e n t of chrom e and .

4 p e r c e n t .of t ar t ar ; wash and d y e

,
in a b a t h con t aining 1 5 p e r
 US E O F LOG WOO D IN D YEIN G . Z II

c e n t of logwood e x t rac t and pe r c e n t of Ali z arin Y e llow AW

. . .

E n t e r a t 1 00 F gradually r ai s e t o t h e boil an d d ye at t hat

°
,

t e mp e ra t ur e for t hr e e quar t e rs hour ; t h e n wash w e ll and dry

-

Comp ar e t he color of t his sk e in wi t h t hat dy e d wi t h

logwood alon e .

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 1 5 Lo gwo o d B l ack o n Co tt o n wi t h a n Ir o n
.

Mo r da n t — Th e princi pal u se of logwood on co t t on is for t h e

.

produc t ion of blacks and grays in conn e c t ion wi t h an iron mor

dan t Th e chi e f sal t us e d for t his purpos e is t h e so —c al l e d
.

ni t rat e of iron Th e mordan t is fi x e d by m e ans of t annin

. .

St ee p a t e s t sk e in of co tt on yarn in a b at h con t aining 4 pe r c e n t

-
.

of t annic ac i d ; e n t e r at 1 80 F work for 1 5 minu t e s at t hat t e m

°

p e r a t u re
,
t h e n allow t o s t e e p und e r t h e liquor wi t hou t fur t h e r
h e at ing for 1 hour Squ ee z e and p ass t hrough a b at h of ni t rat e
.
,

°
of iron a t 4 Tw for 1 5 minu t e s cold ; t h e n squ e e z e and pass
.

t hrough a w e ak b a t h of lim e wa t e r cold for 1 0 minu t e s and

-
,

finally wash w e ll Th e t annat e of iron t hus form e d on t h e

fi br e imp ar t s t o t h e co t t on a d ark gray color No w dy e t h e sk e in .

in a b at h con t aining 1 5 p e r c e n t of logwood e xt rac t (solid ) and

.

2 pe r c e nt . sod a ash ; e n t e ring at 1 60 F g radu ally raise t o t h e

°

boil and d ye at t hat t e mp e rat ur e for t hr e e quar t e rs of an hour

,
-
.

Wash w e ll and dry

Ex pe r i m e n t 1 1 6 To Ob t ai n a F a s t e r an d Cl e a r e r B l ack
. .

Mordan t a t e s t sk e in of co t t on yarn in t h e sam e m ann e r as above

-

wi t h 4 p er c e n t of t annic acid and t h e n fix by passing t hrough

.
,

t h e b at hs of ni t rat e of iron and lim e wa t e r Th e n dy e as b e for e

-
.

wi t h 1 5 p e r c e n t of logwood e x t rac t Aft e r dy e ing work t h e

. .
,

°
sk e in in a b at h con t aining 1 p e r c e n t of chrom e ; e n t e r a t 1 80 F
. .
,

work for 1 5 minu t e s at t hat t e mp e rat ur e t h e n squ e e z e and wash ,

w e ll and finally soap o ff in a warm dilu t e soap b at h

,

Ins t e ad of using t h e chrom e b at h t h e dy e d mat e ri al may b e pass e d

b ack in t o t he ni t rat e of iron bat h This aft e r t r e at m e n t and .
-

sc o uring wi t h soap h ave t h e e ffe c t of pr e ve n t ing t he rus t y

app e aranc e li abl e t o d e ve lop wh e n logwood is dy e d wi t h an iron
mordan t It is som e t im e s t he prac t ic e t o pass t h e co t t on t hrough
.

a w e ak lim e b at h aft e r coming from t he t annin bat h and b e for e

 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EM IS TR Y .

e n t e ring t h e bat h of ni t rat e of iron ; t his cause s t h e format ion

of t annat e of lim e and pr e ve n t s a large amoun t of t he u nfixe d
,

t an nin from passing in t o t h e iron b a t h and pr e cipi t a t ing t anna t e

of iron .

Expe ri m e nt 1 1 7 Dy e i ng Lo gwo o d wi t h o u t Tanni n

. Co t t on .

may also b e dy e d wi t h iron and logwo od wi t hou t t h e in t e rve n t ion

of t annin St e e p a t e s t sk e in of co t t on yarn in a b at h con t ai ning
.
-

ni t rat e of iron at 8 Tw cold for o ne h al f hour ; squ e e ze and

°
.
, ,
-

work for 1 5 minu t e s in a b at h con t aining 5 grams of soda ash at

1 40
°
F This c aus e s a pr e cipi t a t ion of fe rric oxid e or iron bu ff
.

in t h e fibr e Wash and dy e as pre viously d e scrib e d in ,

e xp e rim e n t 1 wi t h 1 5 p e r c e n t of logwood e x t r ac t .

Expe ri m e nt 1 1 8 Dy e i n g Si lk a Pu r e B l a ck wi t h Lo gwo o d
. .

“ ”
By pur e black is m e an t o ne which do e s no t con t ai n any
w e igh t ing mat e ri als Mord an t a t e st sk e in of silk yarn in a b at h
.
-

con t aining 1 50 cc of wat e r and 2 0 pe r c e n t of cu t ch; e n t e r a t

. .

1 20
°
F and gradu ally bring t o t he boil t h e n allow t o cool in
.
, ,

t h e b at h for o ne h al f hour ; n e x t rins e t h e sk e in sligh t ly and pass

-

in t o a b at h of ni t rat e of iron a t 1 0 Tw work at 1 2 0 F for 1 5 °

.
,
°
.

minu t e s t h e n pass t hrough a dilu t e bat h of soda ash and wash

, ,

w e ll Ne x t d ye in a bat h con t aining 1 50 cc of w at e r and .

2 5 pe r c e n t of logwood e xt rac t (solid ) and 5 p e r c e n t of soda

. .

ash ; e n t e r a t 1 40 F gradually bring t o t h e boil and dy e at t hat

°
,

t e mp e ra t ur e for o ne half hour t h e n wash w e ll and dry-

,

NOTES .

1 . Lo gwo o d . L ogwood is ob t ain e d from t he Camp e achy

wood known bo t anic ally as H wma to x ylo n Ca mpecki a nu m; i t i s
,

a lar ge t r e e and grows principally in t ropic al and sub t ropic al -

Am e ric a Th e wood i t s e lf is r e ally a re d wood b u t t h e color

.
-
,

lake as finally d e ve lop e d is black or blu e d e p e nding on i t s i mt e n ,

si t y .Wh e n fre shly c u t t h e wood is colorl e ss or looks abou t lik e

t hat of any o t h e r t r e e ; on e xposur e t o t h e influ e nc e of t h e oxyg e n

of t h e air how e ve r t h e ou t sid e of t he wood b e com e s of a dark

, ,

r e ddish brown color d u e t o t h e d e v e lopm e n t of t h e coloring

,

mat t e r The coloring principl e of logwood is call e d h mmat o xyli n

.
,
2 14 D Y EIN G AN D TEX TIL E CH EM IS TR Y .

a blu e an d t h e n t opp e d o ff wi t h logwood giving a blu i sh bl ack ;

, ,

“ ”
t h i s is known as a woad e d black .

L ogwood is chi e fly dy e d on co tt on in conn e c t ion w i t h an iron

”
mordan t ,
ni t rat e of iron b e ing princip ally us e d Th e iron .

sal t is g e n e rally fix e d on t h e co t t on by t annin pr e liminary t o

dy e i ng b u t at t im e s t h e fixat ion of t h e iron is accomplis h e d by
,

t h e t annin na t urally pr e s e n t in t h e logwood e x t rac t As t h e iron .

mordan t giv e s a brownish or rus t y black i t i s advisabl e t o chrome ,

t h e color ob t ain e d t o produc e a cl e ar e r and mor e d e sirabl e black .

Th e d e v e lopm e n t of t h e rus t y app e aranc e on an iron lo gwood -

black on co tt on may also b e pre ve n t e d mor e or l e ss by soaping

t h e dy e d color . B y t h e addi t ion of blu e s t on e t o t h e d y e bat h t h e -

color i s also said t o b e improv e d in app e aranc e .

L ogwood is s t ill us e d e x t e nsiv e ly for t h e black dy e in g of s i lk ,

bo t h unw e i gh t e d and w e igh t e d It i s use d in conn e c t ion wi t h a

.

t annin iron mord an t t h e t annin e mploy e d usually b e ing cu t ch

-
, .

L ogwood s e e ms t o mak e t h e silk fibr e opaqu e which is a n e c e ssary ,

condi t ion for t h e produc t ion of a full d e e p black ; t h e coal t ar -

blacks as a rul e do no t mak e t h e silk su ffici e n t ly opaqu e

, ,
.

.2 Ge n e ral Us e o f Na t ur a l Dy e s Pr e vious t o t he discov e ry

.

of t h e coal t ar dy e s t h e t e x t il e colorist had t o r e ly upon e i t h e r t h e

-

min e ral p i gm e n t s or t h e dy e st u ffs d e riv e d from t h e various

v e g e t abl e subs t anc e s for t h e produc t i on of his e ff e c t s Th e .

v e ge t abl e dy e s n e arly all b e long t o t h e mordan t class of dy e st u ffs ,

t houg h a fe w such as t urm e ric s affl ow e r and anna t t o e xhibi t

, ,

subst an t iv e prop e r t i e s t o a c e r t ain d e gr e e and may b e dy e d ,

dir e c t ly on co t t on In g e n e r al how e v e r in using t h e nat ural

.
, ,

dy e woods on e i t h e r wool or co t t on i t i s firs t n e c e ssary t o mordan t

t h e ma t e rial in t h e usual mann e r wi t h m e t allic s al t s .

Th e coloring mat t e rs pr e s e n t in t h e dy e woods w e r e usu al ly

-

e x t rac t e d by t h e dy e r hims e lf by simply boiling t h e rasp e d wood

in wat e r and using t his solu t ion as a dye bat h Und e r t h e s e

,
-
.

condi t ions how e ve r t h e coloring mat t e r so ob t ain e d was n e v e r

, ,
-

in a pur e cond i t ion b u t was con t aminat e d wi t h mor e or l e ss

,

r e s i nous and t annin mat t e r which ac t e d fr e qu e n t ly in a d e l e t e

r i o u s mann e r in t h e dy e ing Th e firs t applicat ion of ch e mical
‘

.
 US E O F L OG WO O D IN D YEIN G . 21 5

sc i e nc e t o t h e ar t of dy e ing was t h e att e mp t t o man ufac t ur e

pur e r and mor e homog e n e ous dy e produc t s from t h e e x t rac t s o f
t h e v arious dy e woods or o t h e r v e g e t abl e coloring mat t e rs At -
.

t h e pr e s e n t t im e t h e u se of t h e nat ur al dy e woods h as almos t

disapp e ar e d wi t h t h e e xc e p t ion of logwood fust ic and indigo ; , ,

and e v e n t h e latt e r is now a co al t ar produc t which i s rapidly -

driving t h e nat ural ar t icl e from t h e mark e t L ogwood s t ill .

holds i t s own for t h e produc t ion of ch e ap blac ks on wool and

co t t on and i t is al so larg e ly use d in t h e black dy e ing of silk
,
.

F u s t i c is us e d t o som e e x t e n t in conn e c t ion wi t h t h e for e going

t o t on e t h e shad e of t h e bl ack ob t ai ne d b u t e v e n i t s u s e in ,

t his mann e r i s growing l e ss and l e ss b e ing r e plac e d by o t h e r ,

y e llow colorin g mat t e rs which poss e ss a gr e at e r d e gr e e of fas t

-

n e ss Cu t ch is s t ill us e d for t h e produc t ion of brown shad e s

.
‘

on co t t on b u t i t is mor e us e d as a t annin mordan t t han as a

,

s e lf color .

Th e nat ur al dy e woods yi e ld coloring ma t t e rs from which may -

b e dy e d black r e d brown y e llow blu e viol e t e t c

, ,
t h e r e is
, , , ,
.
,
"

how e v e r no good gr e e n dy e among t h e lis t of na t ural dy e s t u ffs

, .

Th e colors ob t ain e d wi t h t h e na t ural dy e s as a rul e are ra t h e r , ,

dull in app e aranc e and many of t h e m are of qu e s t ionabl e fast

,

n e ss t h e r e b e ing many of t h e mordan t coal t ar dye s which ar e

,
-

far sup e rior in t his r e sp e c t .

S A M P LES .

Wo o l dye d w i th 2 pe r ce n t . lo gw o o d o n ch ro m e m o rda nt .

Dy i ng w i t h 5 p
e t l gw d e r ce n . o o o .

Dy i ng w i t h 5 p
e t l gw 1 d e r ce n . o o o .

Dy i g w i t h 5 p
e n t l gw d hi p
0 e r ce n . o o o c s .

Sh w i g ff t f
o n e h mi g
ec o o ve r- c ro n .

L gw d h d d w i t h Ali
o o o s i Y ll w
a e zar n e o .

C t t n m d t d w i th t n i i
o o o r an e f l gw a n n - ro n o r o o o d .

C t t n d y d w i t h l gw d
o o e i m d nt o oo o n ro n o r a .

Lo gwo o d o n co tto n a ft e r ch ro m e d -
.

w gw d
Co tt o n m o rda nt ed i th i ro n o xi d e fo r lo o o .

C t t n d y d w i t h l gw d w i t h t t
o o e i n m d nt o o o o u a nn o r a .

Silk m d nt d w i t h
o r t ha d i n f l gw d
e cu c an ro o r o oo .

Si lk d y d w i t h l gw d n t nni n i n m da
e ont o o o a -
ro o r .
 216 D YEIN G AN D TEX TIL E CH EM IS TR Y .

Q U IZ 19 .

5 64 . Wh a t i s t h e ge ne ral me t h o d fo r t he dye i ng o f lo gwo o d o n wo o l ?

5 65 . Wh a t mo rda nt i s p ri nci pa lly u se d i n t h e d ye ing o f lo gwo o d o n wo o l ?
5 66 . Wha t co lo r do small pe rce nta ge s o f lo gwo o d give o n a ch ro m e mo r
d ant ? Wh at co lo r do he avy pe rcenta ge s gi v e ?
5 67 . Ho w m u ch so li d lo gwo o d e xt ra ct w o u ld b e re q u i re d t o d ye a b la ck o n
1 00 lb s . o f w oo l?
5 68 y ing w i th l gw d h ip h w i t h b t h p p d ? Wh t
. In d e o oo c s o s e a re a re a

a m t f l gw
o un d i q i d t gi
o o bl k wh o od i thi f m ?
s re u re o ve a ac e n u se n s o r

5 69 Wh t i t h
. l f th l t i n f l gw d ? D
a s i b th
e co h ngo r o e so u o o o oo e s cr e e c a es

i l f th w l
n co o r o t h dy i g p de o o as e e n ro cee s .

57 Wh t i t h ff t n t h l gw d b l k w h t m h h m i
0 . a s e e ecd o e o oo ac en o o uc c ro e s u se

m y t h i b d ? Wh t i t h p p
.

as th m d t ? T wh t
e o r an o a ca u se s a s e ue a s e ro er

a m o u nt o f ch ro m e t o u se ?
57 1 Wh a t t o ne o f bla ck do e s a st ra i gh t lo gwo o d give o n a chro me mo rdant
b k
Ho w m a y su ch a la c b e s h a de d i n o rde r t o ro d u ce a d e a d p bl k ? ac

572 . p
Ex la i n wh y t h e a dd i t i o n o f a sma ll a mo u nt o f e llo y w dy t f
e s uf to t he

lo gw d b o o ath p ro d u ce s a fu lle r sh a d e o f bl k ac . Wha t d y es m ay b e u se d fo r

th i psp u r o se ?
573 . Wha t i s th e ge ne ra l me t ho d fo r t he d ye i ng o f lo gw o o d b la ck o n co tto n
574 . Wh a t i s t h e ch i e f sa lt o f i ro n e m plo ye d fo r m o rda nt i ng co t t o n fo r lo g
w o o bl k ?
d ac

575 O f wh . at do es the so -
ca lle d n i t ra t e o f i ro n co ns i s t ? Why i s i t gi ve n

t hi s na m e ?

576 . Ho w i s t h e i ro n m o rd a nt fi xe d o n t he co tto n wh e n u si n g n i t ra t e o f
i ro n ”
Wh a t i s t h e co lo r o f t h e mo rdant e d co tto n ?
?
5 7 7 Wh a t i s t h e p u rpo se o f t re a t i ng t h e mo rd a n t e d co t t o n w i t h a b a t h o f
.

li m e w a t e r ? Wh a t sa lt o f i ro n i s fo rme d i n t h e fib re w h e n m o rd a nt i ng w i t h
-

i ro n a nd t a n ni n ?

578 Ho w i s t h e dye a t h re a re d fo r d e i n co t t o n la c
.
-
b p p
i t h lo oo d y g b kw gw
o n a n i ro n m o rd a n t ? Ho w m u ch lo o o d e x t ra ct i s r eq ui re d t o i v e a la c gw g b k
579 Ho w m a y t h e ru st a e a ra n ce o f t h e lo
. o o d i ro n y pp
la c o n co t t o n gw -
b k
be p rev e nt e d ? Give the r e a so n s fo r t h e p ro ce s se s e m pl y
o ed .

5 80 . Wh a t i s t h e p p u r o se o f p
g th t n d
a ss i n e an e co gh li m w t
t t o n t h ro u e -
a er

b e fo re m o rda n t i n g wi th i ro n li q ? E pl i t h
uo r x a n e re a c t i n whi h t k
o pl c a es a ce .

581 Ho w m ay a n i ro n lo -
g w d b
ool k b d y d ac e e o n co tt o nw i t h t th f o u e u se o

a p re li m i na r yt an n i n b a th ? Ho w i s t h e i ro n m o rda n t fi d xe d wh t i th
,
an a s e

co lo r o f t h e m o rda nt e d co tt o n ?

5 82 . G ive th e g e n e ra l gwm e t h o d fo r t h e d ye i g o f s il
p
i t h lo o o d kw .

5 83 . Wh t i m t bya p s b k k ea n w g a
“
u re
”
la c o n s i l ? B y a e i h te d
”
bl k ? ac

5 84 . Wh t i t h m d t mpl y d i d y i g i lk w i t h l gw
a s e o r an e o e n e n s o o o d? Wh a t
t a nni n i g n
s llye d f fi i ng ?
e ra u se o r x
 SE CTI ON xx .

THE MIN OR N A T UR A L DYES .

Ex pe rim e n t 91 1 . Use Mordan t a t e st sk e in of

o f Fu s ti c .
-

wool e n yarn wi t h 3 p e r c e n t of chrom e and 4 pe r c e n t of t ar t ar . .

in t he usual mann e r Dy e for 4 5 minu t e s in a b at h con t aining

.
,

1 0 per c e nt of fus t ic e x t rac t e n t e ring a t 1 40 F and grad u ally

°
. .
,

raising t o t he boil Wash w e ll and dry

. Mordan t a s e cond
sk e in wi t h 5 p e r c e n t of s t annous chlorid e and 5 pe r c e n t of
. .

oxalic ac id and d ye in t he sam e mann e r as abo ve wi t h 1 0 pe r

,

c e n t of fust ic e x t rac t
. M ord an t a t hird sk e in wi t h 6 p e r
c e n t of fe rrous sulphat e and 8 p e r c e n t of t ar t ar and d y e as b e for e
. .
,

wi t h 1 0 p er c e n t of fus t ic e x t rac t
. N o t e t h e di ffe r e nc e in
color ob t ain e d from t he fus t ic by t h e u se of di ffe r e n t mordan t s .

T e s t t h e fas t n e ss of t h e color t o washing and ligh t and compar e ,

t h e r e sul t s wi t h t hos e giv e n by Ali z arin Y e llow .

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 2 0 Us e o f Ma dd e r
. This dy e s t u ff was form e rly .

v e ry e xt e nsiv e ly e mploy e d b ut h as now b e e n r e plac e d almos t

,

e n t ir e ly by t h e syn t h e t ic ally pr e p ar e d Ali z arin wh i ch is t h e

coloring principle of madd e r M add e r consis t s of t h e ground .

r oo t of Ru b i a t i n ct o m m and is appli e d as a mordan t dy e s t uff

, .

M ord an t a t e s t sk e in of wool e n yarn wi t h 3 p e r c e n t of chrom e

-
.

a nd 4 p e r c e n t of t art ar and d y e for 4 5 minu t e s in a ba t h pr e p ar e d

.
,

by boiling 2 5 p e r c e n t of madd e r in wat e r and s t raining Also

. .

add 4 p e r c e n t of c al cium ac e t at e t o t h e d ye b at h This mordan t

.
-
.

yi e lds a r e dd i sh brown color wi t h madd e r In a s i mil a r

m ann e r d ye a t e st sk e in which h as b ee n mordan t e d wi t h 1 0 p e r
-

c e n t of aluminium sulphat e and 8 p e r c e n t of t ar t ar

.
This .

mord an t yi e lds a dull r e d color Dy e a t hird t e s t sk e in mor .

-

d an t e d wi t h 5 p e r c e n t of s t annous chlorid
. e and 5 p e r c e n t of .

oxalic acid and no t ic e t hat an orang e re d color is ob t ain e d

,
-

( 3 9 2)
 TH E M IN O R N AT URAL D YES . 2 19

Experi m ent 1 21 . Us e
of Ar c h i l This d y e t og e t h e r wi t h
.
,

t h e r e la t e d coloring mat t e r cudb e ar is b u t li t t l e us e d at pr e s e n t

-
,
.

It poss e ss e s t h e charac t e r of a subs t an t iv e d y e t owards wool and

yi e lds a dull mage n t a shad e It can b e appli e d in a n e u t ral bat h
.
,

t hough t h e addi t ion of acid mak e s t h e color r e dd e r and brigh t e r .

Th e color is no t fas t t o ligh t or fulling and only fairly so t o ,

washing Dy e a t e st sk e in of wool e n yarn in a n e u t ral b at h

.
-

con t aining 2 0 p e r c e n t of archil p as t e e n t e ring a t 1 2 0 F and

.
,
°
.

raising t o t h e boil for 4 5 minu t e s Dy e a s e cond sk e in in

a b at h con t aining 2 0 p e r c e n t of archil p as t e and 4 p e r c e n t o f
. .

sulphuric acid No t ic e t h e di ff e r e nc e in t h e color c aus e d

by t h e u se of t h e acid in t h e d ye b at h Archil a t t h e pr e s e n t -
.

t im e is no t us e d as a s e lf color b u t in combina t ion wi t h various

,

acid dy e s for t h e produc t ion of browns maroons and clar e t s ; , ,

i t i s also e mploy e d as a bo tt om for indigo It is no t us e d for .

t h e dy e ing of co t t on Silk may b e dy e d wi t h ar chil in a soap

.

ba t h wi t h or wi t hou t t h e addi t ion of ac e t ic acid

,
.

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 2 2 Us e o f Qu e r ci tro n
. This is a y e llow color .

ing mat t e r ob t ain e d from t h e b ark of a sp e ci e s of oak Qu e r

-
.

ci t ron i t s e lf consis t s of t h e ground b ark whil e flam ne is t he pur e

’

dry e xt rac t of t h e coloring mat t e r Mordan t a t e st sk e in of

-
.
-

wool e n yarn wi t h 3 p e r c e n t of chrom e and 4 p e r c e n t of t ar t ar

. .

in t h e usual mann e r and t h e n dy e wi t h 1 0 p e r c e n t of qu e rci t ron

,
.

bark boiling for 4 5 minu t e s

,
O nt his mordan t qu e rci t ron
giv e s an oliv e y e llow color Mordan t ano t h e r t e s t sk e in wi t h
-
.
-

4 p e r c e n t of
. s t annous chlorid e and 2 p e r c e n t of oxalic acid ; .
‘

r e move t h e sk e in from t h e mordan t ing b at h add 1 p e r c e n t o f ,

.

fl av i ne e x t rac t , boil up for 5 minu t e s t h e n r e en t e r t h e wool and ,

con t inu e boiling for 4 5 minu t e s This m e t hod of dy e ing

should yi e ld a brigh t canary—y e llow B y incr e asing t h e amoun t of .

fl av i ne t h e color b e com e s orang e y e llow Qu e rci t ron and i t s pro

-
.

duc t s ar e b u t li t t l e us e d for wool dy e ing at pr e s e n t t hough t h e y ,

are s t i ll e mploy e d t o som e e x t e n t in bo t h co t t on and wool prin t ing .

Th e color i s no t par t icularly fas t t o e i t h e r ligh t or scouring .

Exp e ri m e n t 1 2 3 Use o f Cu t c h
. This brown dy e s t u ff is also
.

a t annin and in t his lat t e r conn e c t ion i t has alr e ady b ee n con
,
2 20 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EM IS TR Y .

s i d e re d ( pag e
se e As a dy e s t u ff i t was form e rly v e ry e xt e n

s i v e ly us e d on co t t on and for t h e produc t i on of c e r t ai n t on e s of

,

brown i t is s t ill e mploy e d qui t e larg e ly in co t t on dy e ing It is .

no t us e d for t h e dy e ing of wool as t h e fibr e is mad e t o o h arsh,

.

In silk dy e ing i t is larg e ly use d b u t o nl y as a t annin in conn e c t ion

,

wi t h logwood black Pr e par e a b at h con t aining 1 5 p e r c e n t of

. .

cu t ch and d ye a t e s t sk e in of co tt on yarn for 1 hour a t 1 9 5 t o

-
°

21 0
°
F Th e n squ e e z e t h e sk e in and t r e at for 3 0 minu t e s at
.

1 60 F
°
in a b at h con t aining 5 p e r c e nt of chrom e and finally
. .
,

giv e a t horough washing Dark e r shad e s of brown are

ob t a i n e d by t h e addi t ion of b lu e s t on e t o t h e d y e ba t h as follows : -

Dye a t e s t sk e in of co t t on yarn in a ba t h con t aining 1 5 p er c e n t of

-
.

cu t ch and 2 p er c e n t of blu e s t on e ; squ e e z e and t r e a t wi t h chrome

.

solu t i o n as abov e
Exp e ri m e n t 1 2 4 Us e o f Co c hi n e al — Th is dy e s t u ff consis t s
. .

of t h e dri e d bodi e s of small ins e c t s and furnish e s a brigh t re d

coloring mat t e r B e for e t h e in t roduc t ion of t h e r e d acid dye s
-
.

i t was larg e ly us e d for t h e produc t ion of br i gh t scarl e t colors on

wool and i t s t ill has a c e r t ain d e gr e e of u s e for t his purpose
,
.

Mordan t a t e st sk e in of wool e n yarn wi t h 6 p e r c e n t of s t annous

-
.

chlorid e and 4 p e r c e n t of ox al ic ac i d ; wash and d y e in a fr e sh

.
,

bat h con t aining 1 0 p e r c e n t of ground cochin e al s t ar t ing at a

.
,

t e mp e rat ur e of 1 4 0 F and raising t o t h e boil for 4 5 minu t e s

°
.

Wh e n dy e d on a t i n mordan t in t h is mann e r a brigh t

scarl e t color is ob t ain e d which is fas t t o l i gh t and fulling A .

crimson r e d color is ob t ain e d wi t h an aluminium mordan t as

-
‘

follows : Mordan t a t e s t sk e in of wool e n yarn wi t h 8 p e r c e n t of

-
.

al uminium sulphat e and 6 p e r c e n t of t ar t ar ; wash and d y e in .

,

a fr e sh bat h con t aining 1 0 p e r c e n t of ground cochin e al .

Cochin e al is no t us e d for t h e dy e ing of co t t on .

NOTES .

1 . Fu s t i c . This
coloring mat t e r is ob t ain e d from t h e wood
-

of a t r e e bo t anically known as M o m s ti nct o ri a It is al so known .

,

as Cub a wood or y e llow wood It is ob t ain e d in t h e We s t Indi e s

.

and Ce n t ral and Sou t h Am e rica t h e b e s t vari e t i e s b e ing ob t ain e d

,
222 D YEIN G AN D TEX TIL E CH EM IS TR Y .

wi t h iron mordan t s Mo ri nt anni c acid may b e pre par e d from

.

comm e rcial fus t ic e xt rac t by all owing t h e conc e n t rat e d syrupy

solu t i on t o s t and for som e days wh e n an abundan t crys t allin e
,

d e posi t wi ll b e form e d ; t his is wash e d rapidly wi t h a li tt l e cold

wat e r and s t rongly pr e ss e d Th e r e sul t ing mass is bo i l e d t wic e
.

wi t h wat e r wh e re on a solu tion con t aining mo r i nt a nn i c acid will

,

b e ob t a i n e d t h e r e sidu e consis t ing of moric a cid and mora t e of

,

lim e Th e aqu e ous solu t io n is conc e n t rat e d by e vaporat i on

.
,

and pr e cipi t at e d by t h e addi t ion of hydrochloric acid Pur e .

moric acid may b e ob t ain e d from t h e r e sidu e by t r e at ing w it h

dilu t e hydrochloric acid (t o d e compose t h e c alcium morat e ) and
dissolving in al cohol O n dilu t ing wi t h wa t e r t his solu t ion
.

d e posi t s moric acid in t h e form o f y e llow n e e dle s

'

A solu t ion of fus t ic giv e s t h e following r e ac t ions

Alka li es : O rang e brown color
to .

Wea k aci ds : Pal e y e llow pr e cipi t at e .

Alu m: B righ t y e llow pr e cipi t at e .

Lea d a cet a te : O rang e pr e cipi t at e .

Co pp er a ceta t e : B rownish y e llow pr e cipi t at e .

F e rro u s s u lp ha te : At firs t oliv e color t h e n brownish oliv e ,

F e rri c s u lp ha te : pre cipi t a t e on s t anding .

S ta nno u s chlo ri de : B rownish y e llow pr e cipi t at e .

Co pp e r s u lp ha te : Dark gr e e n pr e cipi t a t e .

Gela ti n : Y e llow fl o cc u le nt pr e cipi t at e .

F u st i c occurs in comm e rc e in t h e form of log chipp e d rasp e d , , ,

ground or as an e x t rac t Th e e x t rac t is fre qu e n t ly sophis t icat e d

,
.

wi t h glucos e an d qu e rci t ron b ark e x t rac t and vari e s in i t s sp e ,

c i fic gravi t y from 40 t o 5 1 Tw
°
Th e sp e cific gravi t y how e v e r
°
.
, ,

lik e t h at of logwood is of no guid e t o i t s v al u e on accoun t of

, ,

i t s b e ing incr e as e d by t h e addi t ion of adult e ran t s Th e b e s t .

m e t hod of m aking a v al uat ion of fust ic in any of i t s forms i s

to conduc t a s e ri e s of comparat iv e dy e t e s t s on sk e ins of -

woole n yarn which hav e b e e n pr e viously mordant e d wi t h 3

p e r c e n t of chrom e and 4 p e r c e n t of t ar t ar as in t h e case of
. .
,

logwood or wi t h 3 p er c e n t of s t annous chlorid e and 5 p e r

, .
 TH E M IN O R N AT URAL D YES .
3

c e n t of oxalic acid Th e t e s t s are carri e d o ut in t h e usual

. .

mann e r .

F u st i c is mor e us e d on wool t han on co t t on and t h e g e n e ral ,

mordan t e mploy e d is chrom e t hough wh e n brigh t y e llow colors ,

a r e d e sir e d aluminium or t i n mordan t s a r e us e d Th e color .

ob t ain e d wi t h t h e latt e r how e v e r is no t v e ry fas t t o washing and

, ,

is qui t e fugi t iv e t o ligh t b e coming dull e r and brown e r on e xpo

,

sur e Ev e n on a chrom e mordan t how e v e r t h e color c anno t b e

.
, ,

classifi e d as fas t t o ligh t In t h e dy e ing of fus t ic prolong e d .

boiling mus t b e avoid e d as t his c aus e s t h e color t o b e dull and ,

brownish prob ably d u e t o t h e pr e s e nc e of consid e rabl e t annin

,

matt e r in t h e dy e s t u ff which by pro t rac t e d boiling and oxidat ion

su ff e rs d e composi t ion in t o brownish coloring matt e rs Th e —
.

addi t ion of som e glu e solu t ion t o t h e d ye b at h is said t o obviat e -

t his d e fe c t .

Ano t h e r coloring mat t e r s 1m i lar t o fus t ic and which onc e h ad

-
,

consid e rabl e u se is t h e so cal le d yo u ng fu s ti c This dy e st u ff

,
—
.

consis t s of t h e ground wood of t he sumac t r e e R h u s co ti nu s It ,

.

was e mploy e d in prac t ically t h e sam e mann e r as fus t ic (w hich

was known as o ld fu s ti c) b ut was a much infe rior dy e st uff owing , ,

t o i t s fugi t iv e charac t e r
r
It h as now prac t ically disapp e ar e d
.

from t rad e .

2 . Ma dde r This dy e s t u ff was form e rly of v e ry gr e a t impor

.

t anc e and was larg e ly cul t ivat e d in t h e sou t h e rn par t of E urop e

,

and Asia M inor It was us e d for t h e produc t ion of Turk e y re d

.
-

on co t t on and t h e dy e ing of r e d o n wo o l M add e r how e v e r has °

.
, ,

long b e e n r e plac e d by t h e co al t ar a li za ri n which is id e n t ic al in -

,

composi t ion and prop e r t i e s t o t he nat ur al produc t .

M add e r is t h e ground roo t of t h e plan t known as Ru bi a ti nct

o ru m; t h e principal coloring ma t t e rs yi e ld e d by t h e madd e r roo t -

a r e a li za ri n p u r p u ri n p s eu do p u r p u r i n x a nt h i n and c hlo ro g e u i u ;
, ,
-
, ,

t h e aqu e ous e x t rac t al so con t ains from 1 0 t o 1 5 p er c e n t of s u gar . .

Th e mos t impor t an t of t h e s e const i t u e n t s is t h e al i z arin ; t h e

o t h e r coloring matt e rs e sp e cially t h e xan t hin and c hlo ro ge ni n
-
, ,

h av e a d e le t e rious e ffe c t in dulling t h e color produc e d by t h e

ali z arin The coloring mat t er s e xis t in t he roo t in t h e form of
.
-
2 24 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EM IS TR Y .

glucosid e s which are spli t up in t o t h e dy e st u ffs and a sugar

,

t hrough t h e ac t ion of a par t icular fe rm e n t

,
.

Ali z arin which is t h e princ i pal coloring m at t e r o f t h e madd e r

'

-
, ,

may b e ob t ain e d t h e r e from by e xt rac t ing t h e ground roo t wi t h

alco h ol e vapora t ing t h e solu t ion t o dryn e ss powd e r i ng t he
, ,

r e sidu e spr e ading i t on a fil t e r pap e r on a h e at e d plat e ; t h e

,

e x t rac t m e l t s and t h e pap e r absorbs t h e brown r e sinous ma t t e rs ,

whil e t h e al i z arin sublim e s on t h e surfac e of t h e mass as larg e

orang e r e d crys t als
-
.

Ali z arin poss e ss e s t h e charac t e rist ics of a p h e nol and is r e adily ,

solubl e in al k al i e s wi t h r e d color ; i t is only slig h t ly soluble in

,

boiling wat e r wi t h a y e llow color It s solu t ion give s t h e follow

,
.

ing r e ac t ions
Alka li es : B luish clar e t color .

Aci ds : B rownish y e llow color .

Alu m : B rownish r e d pr e cipi t a t e .

S t a nno u s c hlo ri de : B rownish r e d pr e cipi t at e .

Iran sa lts : D ark brown pr e cipi t at e .

Co pp e r s a lts : R e ddish brown pr e cipi t a t e .

B a ri u m a nd ca lci u m ch lo ri de s : Viol e t pr e c i pi t at e s .

Le a d acet a t e : R e ddish viol e t pr e cipi t at e .

Wh e n ali z arin is d i st ill e d wi t h z inc giv e s an t h rac e n e from

it ,

which r e ac t ion i t s syn t h e t ic pr e parat ion from t h e lat t e r body was

finally discov e r e d .

P u rp u ri n which al so e xis t s in t h e madd e r roo t r e s e mbl e s

, ,

ali z arin b u t is mor e y e llow in color It may b e pr e p ar e d from

,
.

ali z ar i n by h e at ing t h e lat t e r wi t h mangan e se diox i d e and

sulphuric acid .

M add e r was us e d princip al ly in t h e form of t h e ground roo t ,

b u t t h e r e w e r e also num e rous e x t rac t s and pr e para t ions mad e

for t h e u se of t h e dy e r Ga ra nci n was ob t ain e d by t r e at ing t h e
.

we t past e of madd e r wi t h conc e n t ra t e d sulphuric acid ; 1 00 par t s

of madd e r gav e from 30 t o 40 p ar t s of garancin b u t t his posse sse d
four t o fiv e t im e s t he dy ei ng pow e r of t h e origin al m
,

add e r It is .

suppos e d t hat o t h e r bodi e s which d e t rac t e d from t h e good color

 26 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EM IS TR Y .

Th e color solu t ion of madd e r is b e s t pr e par e d by boiling t h e

,

rasp e d wood i n wat e r an d s t raining t hrough ch e e s e clo t h making -

,

u s e of t h e cl e ar solu t ion for t h e d y e ba t h Th e colors ob t ain e d -

.

on t h e various mord an t s are no t as cl e ar and brigh t as t h os e

produc e d from al i z arin Th e u se of calc i um ac e t at e i n t h e d y e
.

bat h s e rv e s t h e purpos e of brigh t e ning t h e color ; in cas e t h e wat e r

con t ains consid e rabl e lime t his addi t ion n e e d no t b e mad e b u t ,

su f fi ci e n t ac e t ic acid should b e add e d M add e r may b e dy e d in a .

singl e b at h using 5 p e r c e n t of al um 4 p e r c e n t of t ar t ar 4 p e r
,
.
,
.
,

c e n t of calcium ac e t at e and 1 0 pe r c e n t of madd e r ; e n t e r t h e

.
,
.

mat e ri al cold and slowly bring t o t h e boil and main t a i n at t hat ,

t e mp e ra t ur e for o n e hour This m e t hod is use d only for t h e dy e ing

.

of ligh t co lors as o t h e rwise t h e r e would b e consid e rabl e p re c i p i

,

ta t i o n of coloring ma tt e r in t h
-
e d y e —b a t h A p al e brownish drab .

s t ain on wool may b e pr o duc e d by boiling wi t h a d e coc t ion of

madd e r wi t h t he u se of any mordan t what e ve r This m e t hod .
,

in fac t has b e e n us e d in prac t ic e Th e colors produc e d wi t h

,
.

madd e r on e i t h e r a chromium or an alumini um mord an t may b e

consid e rably brigh t e n e d by t h e addi t ion of a small amoun t of
t i n crys t als t o t h e mordan t ing b at h In ord e r t o fully d e v e lop .

t h e coloring pow e r of madd e r i t i s n e c e ssary t ha t t h e t e mp e ra t ur e

of t h e d y e bat h b e gradu al ly and r e gularly e l e va t e d t o t h e boil

-

ing poin t Th e addi t ion of a small amoun t of sumac (or o t h e r

.

t annin e x t rac t ) t o t h e d y e b a t h s e rv e s t o giv e b e t t e r e xhaus t ion

-

of t h e coloring mat t e r -
.

3
. Ar c h il This coloring mat t e r is ob t ain e d from c e r t a i n
.
-

sp e ci e s of lich e ns t h e principal var i e t i e s of w h ich ar e Ro cce lla

,

t i nct o ri a Ro cce lla fu cifo rmi a and Va ri o la ri a o r ci na

,
Th e d ye
,
.

s t u ff occurs in t h e form of a p as t e and is pr e par e d by t r e at ing t h e ,

lic h e ns t o a proc e ss of oxidat ion in t h e pr e s e nc e of ammonia .

Th e principal color producing compounds e xis t ing in t h e l i c h e ns

-

ar e e ryt h ri n le ca n o ri c a ci d
,
and ev e rni c aci d Th e l i ch e ns are
,
.

t orn up in t o sm al l fragm e n t s plac e d in iron d rums prov i d e d wi t h

,

s t irr e rs and m 1 x e d wi t h a dilu t e solu t ion of ammonia Th e

,
‘
.

t e mp e ra t ur e is k e p t a t abou t 1 00 F for s e v e ral days during w hi ch

°
.
,

t im e t h e mass und e rgo e s a f e rm e n t a t ion which caus e s t h e d e v e lop

 TH E MIN O R N A TURAL D YES . 227

m e n t of t h e coloring mat t e r Wh e n t h e lat t e r c e as e s t o incr e ase

-
. .

which is d rmin d by making s s from im im e ) t he

( e t e e t e t t e to t

fe rm e n t at i on is s t opp e d Th e produc t so O b t ain e d is a rchi l

.

p a s te; a rchi l li qu o r i s pr e par e d by r e moving t h e fibrous mat t e r of

t h e plan t . F ren ch p u r p le i s a pr e p arat i on of archil which is said
t o giv e fas t e r shad e s t han t h e ordinary produc t ; i t is mad e by
t r e a t ing t h e lich e ns w i t h a dilu t e solu t ion of ammonia acidula t ing ,

t h e r e sul t ing liquid wi t h hydrochloric acid which pr e c i pi t a t e s ,

t h e coloring ma t t e rs —
This pr e cipi t a t e is wash e d dissolv e d in
.
,

s t rong ammonia and k e p t for abou t t hr e e w e e ks at a t e mp e rat ur e

,

of 1 6 0 F during which t im e a fine purpl e color is d e v e lop e d ;

°
.
,

c alcium c h lorid e is add e d and a purpl e lak e is pr e cipi t a t e d .

Wh e n us e d for dye ing t his lak e i s mix e d wi t h an e qual w e igh t of

oxal i c ac i d and dissolv e d in wa t e r .

A solu t i on of archil g i v e s t h e follow i ng r e ac t ions

Aci ds : Solu t ion
y e llow e r .

Alka li e s : Solu t ion blu e r .

Le a d a cet a t e : Crimson pr e cipi t at e .

Ca lci u m chlo ri de : R e d pr e cipi t at e .

S t a nn o u s chlo ri de : Firs t r e dd e r t h e n y e llow e r ,

.

Alu m : Solu tion r e dd e r .

B as i c a lu m : Crimson r e d pr e cipi t at e -
.

Th e coloring princ i pl e of pr e par e d archil is known as o rcei n .

Archil or orchil was form e rly pr e par e d by t r e at ing t h e lich e ns

, ,

wi t h wat e r con t aining pu t rid urin e and at a subs e qu e n t s t ag e ,

wi t h slak e d lim e Archil is chi e fly e mploy e d for t h e dy e ing of

.

carp e t yarns .

Arch i l occurs in t rad e in t hr e e forms : ( 1 ) as a t hick l i quor

call e d archil ; ( 2 ) as a p as t e call e d pe rs i s; and (3 ) as a r e dd i sh
brown or purpl e powd e r t e rm e d cu db ea r Th e liquor vari e s in
,
.

sp e cific gravi t y from 8 t o 2 0 Tw ; t h e past e is usually a 3 5 p e r

° °
.

c e n t o ne b u t is som e t im e s as low as 2 0 p e r c e n t Archil is

.
,
.

som e t im e s adul t e ra t e d wi t h o t h e r v e g e t abl e coloring mat t e rs -

such as logwood sapan B raz il wood e t c and also wi t h coal t ar

, ,
-
,
.
,
-

dy e s e sp e cially M ag e n t a Pur e cudb e ar is ob t ain e d from a

,
.
 228 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EMIS TR Y .

lic h e n known as Leca no ra t a rta rea It is pr e par e d and use d in .

e xac t ly t h e sam e mann e r as archil a nd giv e s t h e sam e colors ; i t ,

al so yi e lds t h e sam e r e ac t ions In fac t t he t wo dye s comme r .

,

c i ally a r e no t dis t inguish e d .

4 Q e r c tro n
. u i —
T h is dy e st uff i s from t h e inn e r b ark of a
.

sp e ci e s of oak t h e bo t an i cal nam e of which is Qu ercu s ci t ri na or

,

Q u e rcu s t i nct o ri a It is found principally in P e nnsylvania

.
,

G e orgia and t h e Carolinas

,
It s dy e ing prop e rt i e s ar e d u e t o t wo
.

principl e s qu erci tri n CaeHss

,
and que rceti n C H3fiO u Th e
, o, , 24
.

b e s t vari e t i e s ar e shipp e d from Philad e lphia N e w Y ork and , ,

B al t imor e ; t h e Philad e lphi a vari e t y b e ing t h e mos t highly pri z e d .

It is principally us e d in cal ico prin t ing for t h e produc t ion of

compound shad e s in conjunc t ion wi t h mordan t s of al u m1n1 u m ,
“

t i n chromium and iron

, ,
It is al so e mploy e d in wool e n prin t ing
. .

In t h e dry condi t ion qu e rci t ron i s of a y e llow or bu ff color b e ing

, ,

a mixt ur e of t h e fibr e s wi t h a fine powd e r of a bi t t e r and as t ring e n t

t as t e Th e e x t rac t wh e n fr e shly pr e par e d is n e arly t ranspar e n t
.

and of a dull orang e re d color which on s t anding d e posi t s a -

,

y e llow cryst allin e powd e r and b e com e s t urbid and consid e rably ,

t hick e r Th e e x t rac t is adul t e ra t e d chi e fly w i t h molass e s

. In .

t h e form of e x t rac t i t is known as b a rk e x tract and is usually sold

a t a d e nsi t y of 5 1 Tw °
.

P a te nt b a rk is pr e p ar e d by boiling ground qu e rci t ron b ark

wit h d i lu t e sulphuric acid t h e produc t b e ing wash e d and d ri e d ,
.

It s chi e f u se is as a subs t i t u t e for fl av i n e in wool dy e i ng .

F la v i ne i s a v e ry pur e dry e x t rac t of t h e coloring mat t e r of -

qu e rci t ron b ark Th e b e s t vari e t i e s con t ain a larg e propor t ion

.

of qu e rc e t in and yi e ld y e llow colors of gr e at brigh t n e ss Flavin e

,
.

is s t i ll som e what us e d in conjunc t ion wi t h cochin e al for t h e

produc t ion of brig h t y e llowish sc arl e t colors .

Th e colors ob t ain e d from qu e rci t ron and fl av i ne are -du lle d

by prolong e d boiling in t h e d ye bat h owing t o t h e pr e se nc e of -

consid e r able t annin Th e addi t ion of glu e solu t ion is b e n e ficial

.

in t his r e sp e c t .

5 . Cu t c h C u.t ch or ca t e chu is t h e dri

,
e d e x t rac t ob t a i n ed
,

from s e v e ral Indian t re e s a sp e ci e s of Acaci a t h e c h i e f var i e t y

, ,
2 30 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EMIS TR Y

h e at e d in a t e st t ub e wh e n if blood is pr e s e n t ammonia and

-
, , ,

offe nsiv e odors ar e giv e n o ff .

As alr e ady m e n t ion e d cu t ch con t ains t wo coloring principl e s ;

,

t h e o ne is solubl e in cold wa t e r and is t e rm e d ca t e chu t annic -

acid or mi mo t a nni c a ci d; t h e o t h e r i s n e arly in solubl e in cold

,

wat e r and i s t e rm e d cat e chin or ca tech u i c a ci d a brown amor ,

p h o u s subs t anc e C a t e chu. t annic acid may -

b e ob t ain e d by
boiling pulv e ri z e d cu t ch wi t h wat e r allowing t he solu t ion t o ,

s t and for se v e ral days wh e n t h e c at e chin s e p arat e s o u t and may

,

b e fil t e r e d o ff Th e fil t ra t e i s e vaporat e d t o dryn e ss and t r e a t e d

.

wi t h alcohol t o r e mov e impuri t i e s Th e produc t is a r e dd i sh .

brown powd e r solubl e in wat e r and alcohol b u t no t solubl e on ,

dry e t h e r Wi t h fe rric sal t s i t giv e s a grayish gr e e n pr e cipi t at e

.
,

and give s no r e ac t ion wi t h fe rrous sal t s It s aq u e o u s so lut i o n

‘

is pr e cipi t at e d by g e la t in album e n and sulphuric ac i d Cu t ch

, ,
.

may con t ain from 3 5 t o 5 5 p e r c e n t of cat e chu t annic acid .

-
,

according t o i t s sourc e Wi t h alk al i e s c at e chu t annic acid forms

.
-

solubl e sal t s t he solu t ions of which rapidly oxidi z e on e xposur e

,

t o t h e air and b e com e of a r e ddish color .

Cat e chin forms t ha t par t of cu t ch insolubl e in cold wat e r .

It is ob t ain e d in t h e pur e s t at e by t aking t h e sol i d which s e para t e s

o u t aft e r boiling cu t ch wi t h wa t e r and cooling ; i t is purifi e d by

r e dissolving in h o t wa t e r boiling wi t h animal ch arcoal t o d e color

,

i z e i t fil t e ring h o t and al lowing t o cool

, ,
Th e s e op e ra t ions may .

h ave t o b e r e p e at e d s e v e ral t im e s Th e produc t ob t ain e d i s in

.

t h e form of whi t e silky crys t a ll in e n e e dl e s which ar e v e ry sligh t ly

'

solubl e in wat e r Cat e ch i n pr e cipi t at e s al bum e n b u t no t g e lat in

.
,
.

Wh e n dissolve d in conc e n t ra t e d sulphuric acid i t give s a purplish

color e d solu t ion Though som e t im e s c all e d c at e c h u i c acid
.
,

cat e chin has no acid prop e r t i e s and is n e u t r al t o li t mus Wh e n

,
.

dissolv e d in solu t ions of alk alin e carbonat e s i t rapidly absorb s

oxyg e n from t h e air and b e com e s dark r e d in color ; and on t he
addi t i on of an acid dark r e d r u b i ni c a ci d is pr e cipi t a t e d If .

caust i c alkali e s are us e d as t h e solv e n t t h e n a v e ry dark brown , ,

n e arly black pr e cipi t at e of j a p o ni c aci d is ob t ain e d und e r similar

,

condi t ions This sam e subst anc e is form e d wh e n a d e coc t ion of

.
 TH E M IN O R N A TURAL D YES . 231

cu t ch is oxidi z e d wi t h po t assium bichromat e ; and in fac t i t is on ,

t his prop e r t y t h a t t h e dy e ing pow e rs of cu t ch d e p e nd .

Dy e rs u t ili z e t h e coloring prop e r t i e s of bo t h cat e chin and t h e

c at e chu t annic acid b u t t h e calico prin t e r r e quir e s chi e fly t h e
-
,

ca t e chin In g e n e ral cu t ch is us e d in co t t on dy e ing for t h e pro

.
,

duc t ion of browns and as a t annin mordan t ; i t is how e ve r , ,

som e what use d in wool e n and silk dy e ing b e ing e mploy e d in ,

t h e la t t e r chi e fly as a w e igh t ing and mordan t ing ag e n t in t he

produc t ion of blacks It i s also us e d for t h e dy e ing and p re
.

s e rving o f sails and fishing n e t s as w e ll as in m e dicin e as a n

,

as t ring e n t and al so in t h e t anning of l e at h e r

,
.

Cu t ch is b e s t appli e d t o co t t on by boiling t h e goods in a d e

coc t ion of t h e dy e s t u ff and t h e n al lowing t o s t and for some t im e
aft e r which t h e co tt on is t ak e n o u t squ e e ze d and work e d , ,

in a h o t bat h con t aining po t assium bichromat e which ac t s on .

,

t he solubl e ca t e chin and ca t e chu t annic acid t o produc e insol

-

ubl e j aponic acid on t h e fibr e Som e dy e rs e n t e r t h e co tt on in t o

.

a h o t b at h of cu t ch t h e n work i t for som e hours wi t hou t fur t h e r

,

applicat ion of h e a t and t r e at i t as b e for e wi t h chrom e It i s

,
.

possibl e t o u s e blu e s t on e inst e ad of chrom e and if t h e color i s ,

d e v e lop e d by t h e form e r i t app e ars much y e llow e r and no t qui t e

so full in sh ad e as t he colors produc e d by t h e lat t e r If blu e .

s t on e i s us e d i t is t h e b e tt e r plan t o add i t dir e c t ly t o t h e b at h

con t aining t h e cu t ch and aft e rwards t o d e v e lop in t h e usual way
,

wi t h chrom e In t h e lat t e r cas e t h e shad e s a re fulle r and fas t e r

.
,

t o ligh t t han would b e t h e c as e if no blu e s t on e w e r e us e d Co p .

p e ras may also b e add e d t o t h e b at h for t h e purpos e of dark e nin g

t h e shad e . It is advisabl e wh e n dy e ing v e ry dark cu t ch browns
t o firs t work in a fairly w e ak b a t h d e v e lop in t h e chrom e and
,

aft e rwards work in t h e cu t ch b at h again and again d e v e lop wi t h ,

chrom e and r e p e at t his un t il t h e r e quir e d d e p t h of shad e is

,

ob t ain e d B y t his m e ans dark e r full e r and mor e l e v e l shad e s

.

, , ,

may b e ob t ain e d t han by using v e ry s t rong solu t ions of cu t ch .

This m e t hod is e sp e ci ally applicabl e t o t h e dye ing of warps and

co t t on pi e c e s It should b e no t e d t hat t h e pr e s e nc e of copp e r in
.

t he color lak e app e ars t o mak e i t fas t e r t o ligh t

-
Ins t e ad of using .
2 32 D YEIN G AN D TEX TIL E CH EM IS TR Y .

th e copp e r sulphat e d i r e c t ly in t h e cu t ch b at h as is usually ,

don e t h e co t t on may b e work e d in a cold solu t i on of t h e s al t

, ,

e i t h e r on coming o u t of t h e cu t ch ba t h or af t e r b e i ng d e v e lop e d .

Though chrom e and blu e st on e are t h e chi e f m e t all i c s al t s e mploy e d

for fixing cu t ch in co t t on dy e ing o t h e r sal t s may also b e us e d
, .

Aluminium s al t s giv e a y e llowish brown color whil e t i n s al t s g i ve a

,

s t ill y e llo we r color ; copp e ras giv e s a brownish gray Co t t on dy e d .

wi t h cu t ch has t he prop e r t y of b e ing aft e rwards dy e d wi t h t h e

b as i c and wi t h ali z arin (or na t ural ) dy e s t uffs In t h e form e r
.

cas e i t is t he c at e chu t ann i c ac i d or t h e produc t s form e d from i t

-
,

b y ox i da t ion t hat ac t as t h e mordan t ; in t h e lat t e r c as e i t is t h e

,

c h romium or copp e r fix e d in t h e fibr e which ac t s as t h e mordan t .

It is appar e n t t h e r e for e t ha t if t he t on e of a cu t ch brown has t o b e

, ,

al t e r e d t h i s may b e accompl i sh e d by any sui t abl e d y e s t u fi of t h e

abov e groups In t h e cas e of t h e coloring ma t t e rs r e quiring a
.
-

m e t allic mordan t t h e dy e s t u ff may b e add e d d i r e c t ly t o t h e cu t ch

,

bat h wh e n of cours e t h e color produc e d by i t would b e d e v e lop e d

, , ,

a t t h e sam e t im e as t h e cu t ch Wi t h t he b as i c colors how e v e r

.
, ,

i t would b e n e c e ssary t o firs t d y e t h e cu t ch brown and t h e n t o p

o ff in a s e p ara t e ba t h wi t h t h e b asic color .

At t h e pr e s e n t t im e cu t ch is v e ry li t t l e us e d as a dy e s t u ff for
wool al t hough for t h e produc t ion of c e r t a i n brown shad e s i t migh t
,

b e e mploy e d wi t h advan t ag e The obj e c t ions t o t h e u s e of cu t ch

.

a r e s e v e ral : (a ) Th e wool acquir e s a h arsh fe e l ; t h i s migh t b e

r e m e di e d t o a c e r t ain e x t e n t by us i ng only t h e ca t e ch i n b u t t h i s is ,

t o o e xp e nsiv e ( )
b .T h e b e s t and fas t e s t shad e s a r e produc e d
“
by t h e so call e d sadd e ning proc e ss ; t hat is firs t bo i ling t he
-
,

wool wi t h t h e coloring mat t e r and t h e n fix i ng in a fre sh bat h

wi t h a solu t ion of a m e t all i c sal t As t his proc e ss i s no t a v e ry
.

conv e ni e n t o ne for dy e ing t o sh ad e i t is e asy t o und e rs t and why

,

c u t ch is no t much us e d Th e mann e r of dy e ing wool w i t h cu t ch

.

is v e ry similar t o t h at for t h e dy e ing of co t t on e xc e p t t h at boiling

,

solu t i ons are us e d Cu t ch may also b e us e d on wool in c o nj u nc

.

t ion wi t h such dy e s as b arwood and camwood B y firs t mor .

dan t ing wi t h chrom e or o t h e r m e t allic sal t (blu e s t on e or copp e ras )

ligh t e r shad e s ar e ob t ain e d t han wh e n t he sadd e ning m e t hod is
2 34 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EMIS TR Y .

Cochin e al was form e rly v e ry e x t e nsiv e ly e mploy e d for t h e pro

duc t ion of brigh t scarl e t s and r e ds on wool ; i t is s t ill us e d t o some
e x t e n t for t his purpos e b u t has b e e n l arg e ly r e plac e d b y t h e acid
,

scarl e t s Th e scarl e t clo t h for t h e E nglish army how e v e r is

.
, ,

st ill dy e d wi t h cochin e al In co t t on dy e ing cochin e al has no

.

applica t ion t hough small quan t i t i e s are us e d in prin t ing Coch

,
.

i ne al give s t h e following colors wi t h t h e di ffe r e n t mordan t s :

Ch ro mi u m : Purpl e .

Alu mi ni u m : Crimson .

Iro n : Purpl e .

Co pp e r : Clar e t .

Ti n : Scarle t .

Th e principal colors ar e t h e crimson wi t h alum and t he scarl e t

wi t h t i n Cochin e al sc arl e t i s fas t e r t o ligh t t han t he acid
.

scarl e t s ; i t is al so qui t e fast t o washing and fulling b u t b e come s a

,

li t t l e blu e r t hough i t do e s no t ble e d Th e solu t ion of t h e coloring

,
.

mat t e r for dy e ing is b e s t pr e par e d by boiling t he powd e r e d

cochin e al inse c t s in wat e r and s t raining t h e solu t ion .

Ammo ni a ca l co c hi ne a l is a pr e parat ion ob t ain e d by s t e e ping

ground cochin e al in ammonia wa t e r for s e ve r al days t hr e e par t s ,

of ammonia b e ing use d for o ne par t of cochin e al A ch e mical .

r e ac t ion t ak e s plac e r e sul t ing in t h e format ion of a c arm i na mi d e

from t h e c arm i n i c acid Th e mix t ur e is t h e n h e a t e d t o drive o ff
.

t h e e xc e ss of ammonia and hydra t e d aluminium oxid e i s add e d

, ,

and t h e h e at in g con t inu e d un t il all of t h e ammonia is r e mov e d ;

t h e n t h e mass is pr e ss e d in t o c ak e s It is us e d for dy e ing purpl e
.

and crimson and for ros e r e ds in conn e c t ion wi t h ordinary

,

coch i n e al It s color is no t as r e adily a ffe c t e d by acids as t hat of

.

t h e o t h e r coc h in e al It also give s a fine purpl e pr e cipi t at e wi t h

.

oxychlorid e of t i n .

A good qu al i t y of cochin e al should no t giv e mor e t han o ne p er

c e n t of ash on igni t ion It is fr e qu e n t ly adul t e rat e d wi t h half
. .

e xhaus t e d cochin e al which is mad e t o -r e s e mbl e whi t e or silv e r

cochin e al by drying and agi t at ing wi t h b arium sulphat e whi t e ,

'

l e ad e t c B lack cochin e al is also adul t e ra t e d wi t h black iron

,
.
,
 TH E MIN O R N ATURAL D YES . 2 35

sand graphi t e and black oxid e of man gan e se Th e s e min e ral

, ,
.

adul t e ran t s are e asily d e t e c t e d by powd e ring t h e sampl e and

t r e a t ing wi t h wa t e r wh e n t h e min e ral ma t t e rs will in mos t cas e s
,

fall t o t h e bo tt om O ccasionally adult e ra t ion is prac t ic e d by

.
,

adding e x t rac t of B raz il wood This may b e d e t e c t e d by t r e a t ing

-
.

t h e sampl e wi t h wa t e r adding an e xc e ss of lim e wa t e r which

,
-
,

compl e t e ly pr e cipi t at e s t h e coloring mat t e rs of t h e cochin e al -

,

whil e if B raz il wood is pr e se n t t h e fil t e r e d liquid will h av e a

-

purpl e or viol e t color Th e valu e of di ffe r e n t sample s of cochi

.

n e al i s b e s t e s t ima t e d by dissolving a giv e n w e igh t of t h e powd e r e d

sampl e s in wat e r and obse rving t h e amoun t of s t an dard alum
solu t ion n e c e ssary t o compl e t e ly pr e cipi t at e t h e coloring mat t e rs -
.

A mor e accurat e m e t hod p e rhaps is t o conduc t a s e ri e s O f

, ,

comparat iv e d ye t e st s using t e s t sk e ins of wool e n yarn pr e viously

- -

mordan t e d wi t h t i n or alumina .

Co chi nea l ca rmi ne or ca rmi ne la ke is a brillian t r e d pigm e n t

, ,

produc e d by pr e cipi t at ing a d e coc t ion of cochin e al wi t h al umina .

It s manufac t ur e how e v e r is s t ill main t ain e d as a t rad e s e cr e t

, , .

It con t ains a larg e amoun t of alumina and lim e combin e d wi t h ,

a c e r t ain amoun t of ni t rog e nous mat t e r which s e e ms t o b e ,

e ss e n t i al t o i t s forma t ion It i s chi e fly us e d by pap e r s t ain e rs

.

and calico prin t e rs Cochin e al carmin e i s liabl e t o b e adul t e ra t e d

.

wi t h s t arch china clay v e rmilion and various pigm e n t colors

, , ,
.

Th e s e addi t ions may b e d e t e c t e d by t r e at ing t h e samp le wi t h

dilu t e ammoni a wa t e r whi ch will r e adily and compl e t e ly dissolv e
,

pur e sampl e s whil e if any of t h e above nam e d subs t anc e s ar e

,
.

pr e s e n t t h e y will b e l e ft as insoluble mat t e rs Th e ash should b e .

und e r 1 0 pe r c e n t and t h e wat e r should no t b e ov e r 2 0 p e r c e n t

.
, .

Th e ash should b e e xamin e d for t i n w hich if pr e s e n t in any ,

consid e rabl e amoun t indica t e s t h e pr e s e nc e of B i e brich Scarl e t

lak e which clos e ly r e s e mbl e s cochin e al car min e in many of i t s
,

prop e r t i e s and is some what di ffi cul t t o d e t e c t in small quan t i t i e s

, .

B e sid e s t h e usu al t wo b at h proc e ss of dy e ing cochin e al a o ne b a t h

- -

m e t hod may also b e us e d as fo llows : Th e d y e ba t h is pr e p ar e d

,
-

wi t h 6 pe r c e n t of oxalic acid 6 p e r c e n t of s t annous chlorid e

.
,
.
,

and 20 pe r c e n t of cochin e al The oxalic acid should b e add e d

. .
2 36 D YEIN G AN D TEX TIL E CH EM IS TR Y .

b e for e t h e t i n crys t al s o t h e rw i s e a pr e cipi t at e of s t annous oxy

,

c h lorid e will occur whic h will cause loss of coloring mat t e r A -

.

d e fici e ncy of t i n caus e s t h e color t o b e dull and blu e r w h ile an ,

exc e ss of t i n giv e s a pal e r scarl e t Th e o n e bat h m e t hod giv e s .

-

ye llow e r and mor e brill i an t shad e s t han t h e t wo bat h proc e ss -

,

t hough mor e coch i n e al is r e quir e d Th e pre s e nc e of iron or .

copp e r in t h e d ye v a t should b e avoid e d o t h e rwis e t h e sc arl e t

-
,

will b e much dull e d To obvi a t e t his d e fe c t arising from t h e

.

u s e of coppe r s t e am pip e s in t h e d y e v a t a p i e c e of cl e an t i n should

- -

b e plac e d in t h e ba t h ; t his pr e v e n t s t h e copp e r from b e ing dis

solve d For t h e produc t ion of v e ry y e llow t on e s of sc arl e t i t i s
.

n e c e ssary t o u se som e sui t abl e y e llow dy e s t u ff in conn e c t ion wi t h

cochin e al Flavin e was g e n e rally e mploy e d for t he purpos e
. .

S AM P LES .

Wo o l d ye d w i t h fu st i c o n ch ro m e mo rda nt .

Wo o l dye d w i t h fusti c o n t i n mo rd a nt .

Wo o l dye d w i t h fu st i c o n i ro n mo rda nt .

Wo o l dye d w i t h m a dde r o n ch ro m e mo rd a nt .

Wo o l d ye d w i t h m a dde r o n a lu m i ni u m mo rdant .

Wo o l d ye d w i th m adde r o n t in mo rdant .

Wo o l dye d w i th a rch il i n ne u t ra l b ath .

Wo o l d ye d w i t h a rch il i n a ci d b a th .

Wo o l dye d w i t h qu e rci t ro n o n ch ro me mo rdant .

Wo o l dye d w i th fl a v i ne o n t i n mo rda nt .

Co t t o n d y d wi th
e cu t ch .

w i ng fl t f b l
Sh o e ec o u e s t o ne in d y i nge cu t ch .

W l dy d w i t h
o o e hi co c nea l o n ti n mo rd a nt .

W l dy d w i th h i
oo e co c ne a l o n a lu m i n i u m m o rd ant .

Q UIZ 20 .

60 0 . Name p in ip l mi
the r t l d y t ff
c a no r n a u ra es u s . What co lo rs do t he y
yi e ld , a nd o n w h t fib
a t h y h i fly d y d ?
re s a re e c e e

60 1 . De s cr i b th m th d f dy i g w l wi th f
e e e o o e n oo u st i c . Wha t i s the e ffe ct

o f t he u se o f di ffe re nt mo rd ant s ? Ho w do e s t he fast ne ss o f fu st i c t o w ashi n g

a nd g
li h t co m p are wi th th at o f a li za ri n y e llo w?
602 . Fro m wh at t ree i s fu sti c o bt a i ne d ? Wh at i s i ts b o t a n i ca l n a m e ?
In wh at co u nt ri e s do e s i t g w?ro

603 . Wh at co lo r s d o e s fu st i c yi e ld w i th t h diff e e re nt m o rda nt s ? In wh at

fo rm s m ay i t b e e m lo p y ed ? In t h e d y i ng f w h t
e o a co lo rs is it p i n i p lly
r c a u se d ?
2 38 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EMIS TR Y .

62 4 . Wha t a re t he g e ne ra l re a ct i o n s o fa so lu t i o n o f a r ch i l ? wh By at o t he r

na m e is a rc h i l k w no n ? Fo r wh a t cla ss o f y a rns is arc h i l p i n i p lly

r c a u se d ?
62 5 . In wh at fo rm s d o e s a rchi l o ccu r i n t ra d e ? Ho wd db
o e s cu ea r co m pa re

w i th a r chil ?

62 6 . Wh at co lo r do e s q ue rci t ro n gi ve ? Fro m wh at is it o bt a i ne d ? Wh at
i s fla vi ne ?
62 7 . G i ve t he me t h o d fo r d y i ng q
e u e rci t ro n . Wh a t i s t h e d i fl e re nce i n i t s
co lo r o n a ch ro me a nd a t in m o rd ant ?
62 8 . In wh t ba ra nch o fd y i ng
e a re q ue rci t ro n a nd fl a vi ne s t i ll so w
me h a t
u se d Wh a t i s t he ge ne ra l fa st ne ss o f t he co lo r ?
?
6 2 9 What i s p at e nt b a rk a nd h o w i s i t p re pa re d ? Wh a t i s t h e e ffe ct o f
.

p ro lo nged bo ili ng in t he d ye i ng o f q ue rcit ro n and flavi ne ?

6 3 0 Wh a t co lo r do e s cu t ch y i e ld ? Wh a t o t he r u se t h an a s a d ye st uff do e s
.

it p o s se s s ? On w h t fib i a re s s cu t ch y d? d e

63 1 . G i ve th g ne l m th
e e ra e od f d y i ng
o e cu t ch o n co tto n . Ho w d o e s t he
a dd i t i o n o b
f lu e s t o ne fe ct
af t he dy i g ? e n

63 2 . F ro m wh at is cu t ch o bt a i ne d ? b
Ho w d o e s g am ie r d iffe r fro m B o m
b ay cu t ch ? What co lo ri n gm -
a t t e rs do e s cu t ch co nt a i n ? Wha t i s fo rm e d
wh e n cu t ch is o xi d i z e d wi th ch ro me ?
63 3 . Wh at w o u ld b e t he fe c t o n
ef t he co lo r o f cu t ch o f g pp i
addin co e ra s n

the d y i ng ?
e Fo r wh t p p a u r o se s is cu t ch u se d i n t he d y i ng f i lk ?
e o s

63 4 . Of wh at do e s co chi ne a l co ns i st ? What is the d i ff n b tw n e re ce e ee

bl k ac
”
a nd
“
s i lve r
”
co chi ne a l ? Wh at co lo rs do e s co c hi n l gi n m
ea ve o o r

d a nt s o f t in a nd o f a lu m i ni u m ?
635 . G i ve t h e m e t h o d o fd yi ge n co chi ne a l sca rle t o n w oo l . Wha t i s t he
g e ne ra l fa st ne ss o f t he co lo r ?

63 6 . Wh at is a mmo ni aca l co ch i ne a l ? Ho w i s i t p p
re a re d ? Wh a t is
co ch i ne al ca rmi ne ?
63 7 . Wha t a d ul t e ra ti o ns are b
li a le t o b e fo u nd i n sa m pl es o f co chi nea l,

a nd ho w w o uld y o u co nd uct t e s t s fo r t h e i r d e t e ct i o n ?
63 8 . G i v e t he m e t h o d o f d y i ng
e co chi ne al by a o ne - b ath p ro ce ss . The
p n re se ce o f wh at m e t als sho u ld b e avo i de d i n d y i ng e co chi nea l ? Ho w a re ver y
y ll w t
e o o ne s o f co ch i ne al s ca rle t o bt a i ne d ?
 SECTI O N XX I .

THE MIN ER AL DYES TU F FS .

Expe ri m e n t 1 25 . Ch ro me Ye ll o w
n St e e p a t e s t
o n Co tt o .

sk e in of co t t on yarn for 3 0 minu t e s in a cold bat h consis t ing of

a 5 p e r c e n t solu t i o n (5 grams p e r 1 00 cc ) of l e ad ac e t at e
. . .

Squ e e z e e v e nly and p ass in t o a s e cond bat h consis t ing of a 1 p e r

,

c e n t solu t ion ( 1 gr a m p e r 1 00 cc ) of chrom e ; work cold for

. .

3 0 minu t e s S qu
. e e z e and wash in fr e sh wa t e r t h e n sof t e n by ,

working in a dilu t e solu t io n of a co tt on soft e n e r or glyc e rin and

soap Finally squ e e z e and dry
. In ord e r t o ob t ain
h e avi e r colors t he al t e rnat e passage s t hrough t h e b at hs of l e ad
ac e t a t e and chrom e may b e r e p e at e d s e ve ral t im e s In plac e of .

using t h e ordinary ac e t at e of l e ad (sugar of l e ad ) t h e sub ac e t at e

is pr e fe rr e d by som e This is pr e par e d by boiling t og e t h e r
.

1 0 par t s of l e ad ac e t a t e and 6 par t s of li t harg e (l e ad oxid e ) wi t h

4 0 par t s of wa t e r ; fi l t e r and u se t,
h e liquor so ob t ain e d dilu t ing ,

in accord anc e wi t h t h e d e p t h of color d e sir e d .

Chrom e y e llow is form e d in accordanc e wi t h t h e following

r e ac t ions :
K , c r, o ,
2 Pb Cr O , 2 11 0211 3 0 ,
L ea d Ac e t a t e C h ro m e L e a d Ch r o m a t e Ac e t i c Ac i d

Chrom e ye llow may b e appli e d t o wool silk or any o t h e r , ,

fi br e in t h e sam e mann e r as above d e scrib e d for co t t on b u t i t ,

i s s e ldom if e ve r us e d in t h e s e fibr e s In t h e dy e ing of chrom e

, ,
.

y e llow i t is n e c e ssary t o firs t apply t h e l e ad salt and t h e n t h e

chrom e ; if t h e r e v e rs e proc e dur e is follow e d t h e pigm e n t will b e
pr e cipi t at e d on t h e ou t sid e O f t h e fibr e s in a loos e ly adh e r e n t
condi t ion and will no t b e fas t t o washing In dy e ing h e avy
,
.

shad e s in ord e r t o ge t t h e mos t e ve n r e sul t s and t he fas t e st

,

color i t is b e s t no t t o u se mor e conc e n t ra t e d solu t ions b ut t o

,
 4 0 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EM IS TR Y .

give t h e co tt on s e ve ral dips succ e ssiv e ly in t h e t wo solu t ions

un t il t h e d e sir e d d e p t h of shad e i s ob t ain e d To ob t ai n t h e .

pur e s t shad e s of y e llow i t is b e s t t o hav e t h e chrom e b a t h

,

sl i gh t ly acid for if t h e lat t e r b e com e s a t all alkal i n e t h e r e sul t ing

,

p i gm e n t wi ll acquir e an orange t on e O n t his accoun t i t i s .

b e t t e r t o e mploy t h e bichroma t e of po t ash ra t h e r t han t h e n e u t ral

chromat e Chrom e y e llow t hough fas t t o ligh t washing and
.
, , ,

acid i s qui t e s e nsi t iv e t o t h e ac t ion of sulphur e tt e d hydroge n

, ,

t urning dark owing t o t h e forma t ion of black l e ad sulph i d e

, .

As t h e air of ci t i e s e sp e cially in t he vicini t y of fac t ori e s and t h e

, ,

air of house s h e at e d by burning coal always con t ain mor e or ,

l e ss sulphur e t t e d hydrog e n t his accoun t s for t h e gradu al ,

dark e ning of chrom e y e llow on e xposure This di scolora t ion .

can b e pr e ve n t e d t o a consid e rabl e e x t e n t by inco rporat ing

wi t h t h e l e ad sal t a sal t of z inc or cadmium t h e sulphid e o f ,

t h e form e r b e ing whi t e and t h at of t h e la t t e r y e llow in color .

In ord e r t o show t his ac t ion add t o t h e bat h of l e ad ac e t at e us e d

,

in t h e abov e e xp e rim e n t 1 p e r c e n t of cadmium ni t ra t e ; t h e n

.

d y e a s e cond sk e in of co t t on in t h e sam e mann e r as t h e pr e vious

o ne Tak e small sample s of t h e t wo sk e ins and plac e
t h e m in a bo tt l e t h e air of which con t ains a minu t e quan t i t y o f
,

sulphur e t t e d hydrog e n Aft e r som e t im e i t will b e found t hat

.

t h e firs t sampl e dy e d wi t h t h e l e ad s al t alon e has b e com e p e r

, ,

c e p t i b ly dark e n e d wh e r e as t h e s e cond sampl e con t aining t h e

, ,

addi t ion of cadmium s al t is no t al t e r e d Though una ffe c t e d by

,
.

acids chrom e y e llow is chang e d t o an orang e by t h e ac t ion of

,

alk al i e s ; e v e n lim e wat e r will s e rv e t his purpos e Th e orang e

-
.

color is d u e t o t h e format ion of a basic compound of l e ad chroma t e .

To i llust rat e t his ac t ion t ak e a small sampl e from t h e sk e in

,

dy e d wi t h chrom e y e llow and boil i t in a w e ak solu t ion of sod a

ash ; t h e n wash and dry It wi ll b e found t o hav e chang e d t o
.

an orang e color Tr e at m e n t wi t h acid will in t urn d e s t roy t h e

.

orange t on e and r e s t or e t h e original y e llow color ; t his may b e

s h own by s t e e ping t h e sampl e abov e t e s t e d i n a dilu t e solu t ion
of sulphur i c acid wh e n t h e color of t h e original chrom e y e llow
,

will agai n b e form e d B y t h e ac t i on of s t rong caus t i c alkali e s

.
,
 D Y EIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EM IS TR Y .

Ex pe ri m e nt Iro n B u fi on Co t t o n
1 27 . Th i s color is pro .
—

d uce d by pr e cipi t at ing a hydra t e d oxid e of iron (Fe O 3 11 0 ) in 2 2

t h e fibr e Proc e e d as follows : Work a t e s t sk e in of co t t on yarn

.
-

for 3 0 minu t e s in a cold bat h consis t ing of a 5 p e r c e n t solu t ion of .

copp e ras (fe rrous sulphat e Squ e e z e and pass in t o a

, ,

bat h con t aining 5 p e r c e n t on t h e w e igh t of t h e co t t on of soda

.

ash ; work for 1 5 minu t e s at 1 80 F Wash and p ass t hrough °

.

a warm dilu t e soap bat h Th e r e ac t ion t ak e s plac e as

follows :
2 F e SO , + 2 N aaCO s l O-
Fe zO s l -
2 N a, SO , + CO , .

Th e oxidat ion of t h e iron from t he fe rrous t o t h e fe rric condi t ion

is e ff e c t e d by t h e at mosph e ric oxyge n B y r e p e at ing t h e t re at .

m e n t wi t h t h e t wo b at hs s e ve ral t im e s h e avi e r shad e s Of brown

may b e ob t ain e d Ins t e ad of using copp e ras a solu t ion of
.

“ ”
ni t ra t e of iron (basic fe rric sulphat e ) may b e subs t i t u t e d or a ,

solu t ion of fe rric chlorid e Ano t h e r m e t hod of proc e dur e is as

.

follows : Work a sk e in of co tt on as abov e in t he sam e b at h of

copp e ras ; squ e e z e and pass t hrough a cold w e ak solu t ion of
,

chlorid e of lim e con t aining a li t t l e caust ic soda for 1 0 minu t e s .

Squ e e z e and r e p e at t h e passag e t hrough t h e t wo b a t hs t wic e

,
.

This should giv e qui t e a h e avy shad e of brown Wash

w e ll and soap as b e for e Th e chlorid e of lim e oxidi z e s t he
,
.

fe rrous s al t v e ry rapidly t o t h e fe rric condi t ion ; i t also forms a

c e r t ain amoun t of oxy c e llulos e wi t h t h e co t t on which t ak e s up
-

t h e iron compound mor e e n e rg e t ic ally t han t h e unmodifi e d

co t t on Ano t h e r m e t hod of producing iron bu ff on co tt on is t o
.

impr e gnat e t h e mat e ri al wi t h t h e solu t ion of t h e iro n sal t as

‘

b e for e t h e n t o p ass i t t hrough a bat h con t aining milk of lim e aft e r

, ,

which i t is Squ e e ze d and e xpos e d t o t h e air ov e r nigh t This -

.

“ ”
lat t e r op e rat ion is t e rm e d aging Th e ligh t brown shad e
.

ob t ain e d wi t h iron oxid e is also known as na nki ng and cha mo i s .

Th e brown color of t h e nat ural N anking co t t on is no doub t d u e

t o i t s con t aining oxid e of iron Iron bu ff on co t t on is e xc e e dingly
.

fast t o ligh t washing and alk al i e s and also t o e xposur e ; i t i s

, ,

d e colori z e d how e v e r wi t h acids which may b e s h own by st e e p

, , ,
 TH E M IN ERAL D YES T UF F S . 243

ing a small sampl e of t h e dy e d sk e in in a warm dilu t e solu t ion

of hydrochloric acid In calico prin t ing iron bu ff may b e dis
.

charg e d whi t e wi t h ci t ric acid or wi t h a solu t ion of s t annous

chlorid e in hydrochloric acid .

As iron oxid e forms a good mordan t wi t h t h e al i z arin and

nat ur al dy e s t u ffs iron bu ff on co t t on may b e t opp e d o ff wi t h
,

t h e s e dy e s t u ffs and qui t e an e x t e nsiv e vari e t y of shad e s produc e d

t h e r e by
. In ord e r t o illust ra t e t his proc e dur e d y e t hr e e sk e ins ,

of co tt on a ligh t shad e of iron buff in t h e mann e r abov e indicat e d .

Top o ff t h e firs t o ne in a b at h con t aining 2 p e r c e n t Ali z arin R e d .

t h e s e cond o n e wi t h 2 p e r c e n t Ali z arin B lu e

. an d
t h e t hird o ne wi t h 5 p e r c e n t fus t ic e x t rac t (solid )
. En t e r
a t a low t e mp e ra t ure and gradually rais e t o t h e boil Wash and .

soap in t h e mann e r b e for e d e scrib e d .

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 2 8 . Iro n Gr ay o n Co tt o n Thi s color i s .

O b t ain e d by pr e cipi t at ing t anna t e of iron wi t hin t h e fibr e Pro .

c e e d as follows : Work a sk e in of co t t on for 3 0 minu t e s in a cold

b at h of ni t rat e of iron at 2 Tw ; squ e e z e and p ass in t o a b at h

°
.
,

con t aining 5 p e r c e n t of t annic acid ; work cold for 1 5 minu t e s

. .

Wash and soap in t h e usual mann e r De e p e r shad e s of

gray and slat e may b e ob t ain e d by r e p e at ing t h e t r e at m e n t
s e ve ral t im e s Th e op e ra t ions may al so b e r e ve rs e d and t h e
.

t r e a t m e n t wi t h t h e t annic acid may t ak e plac e firs t as in t h e ,

usual mann e r of mord an t ing co tt on for t h e purpos e of dy e ing

h e avy colors wi t h t h e b asic dy e s B e sid e s t annic acid i t se lf t h e
.

various nat ural t annins may b e e mploy e d such as sumac cu t ch , , ,

ch e s t nu t e x t rac t e t c in which cas e s t h e r e sul t ing color will b e

,
.
,

modifi e d by t h e addi t ion of t h e nat ur al color of t h e t annin B y .

using rat h e r conc e n t ra t e d bat hs and r e p e a t ing t h e op e rat ions

s e v e ral t im e s co t t on may b e dy e d black by t his m e t hod In
,
.

fac t b e for e t h e in t roduc t ion of logwood t his was t h e chi e f m e t hod

, ,

for t h e dy e ing of black on co t t on Iro n gray on co tt on is qui t e

.

fas t t o ligh t and washing ; on long e xposur e i t t urns rust y owing ,

t o t h e gradu al forma t ion of iron oxid e ; i t also t urns brown on

t r ea t m e n t wi t h alk al i e s for t h e sam e r e ason L ik e iron buff i t i s

.

also d e colori ze d by t h e ac t ion of acids .

 44 D Y EIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EMIS TR Y .

Expe ri m e nt 1 29 . Mangan ese B ro wn o n Co tt o n This color .

”
is al so known as bis t r e and is form e d by pr e cipi t at ing an
,

ox i d e of mangan e s e in t h e fibr e Proc e e d as follows : Work a

.

ske in of co t t on for 3 0 minu t e s in a cold b at h consis t ing of a

5 p e r c e n t.solu t ion of mangan e s e chlorid e ; squ e e z e and pass in t o
a cold bat h con t aining 1 0 p e r c e n t of caus t ic soda ; work for
.

1 5 minu t e s ; wash in fr e sh wa t e r and t h e n pass in t o a d i lu t e bat h

,

of chlorid e of lim e (abou t 1 °

finally wash w e ll and soap
in t h e usual mann e r In t h e t re at m e n t wi t h caus t ic soda
t h e r e is pr e c i pi t a t e d in t h e fibr e a hydra t e of mangan e s e ; a
dilu t e ba t h of soda a s h may also b e us e d for t h e sam e purpos e .

Th e final t r e at m e n t wi t h chlorid e of lim e is for t h e purpos e of

oxidi z ing t h e compound t o t h e high e r oxid e of mangan e s e Th e .

r e sult ing compound is prob ably Mn, O 3 and consis t s of a mixt ur e ‘

of mangan e se dioxid e Mn O , and manganous oxid e Mn O

, , ,
.

B is t r e was form e rly a v e ry impor t an t color for co t t on and e x t e n

s i v e ly us e d bo t h in dy e ing and prin t ing It is v e ry fas t t o ligh t
.
,

washing and alkali e s ; i t is also fas t t o dilu t e acids b u t s t rong

, ,

acids d e colori ze i t as al so do r e ducing ag e n t s B ist r e may also

,
.

b e dy e d on co t t on by p assing t h e mat e rial sat ura t e d wi t h t h e

solu t ion of mangan e s e chlorid e in t o a b at h con t aining a mix t u r e
of caust ic soda and chlorid e of lim e an op e rat ion which t h e n
,

disp e ns e s wi t h t h e u se of a t hird b at h Th e u se of soda ash in

.

plac e of t h e caus t ic soda c anno t b e r e comm e nd e d as t h e p re ,

c i p i t a t e produc e d con t ains mangan e s e c arbona t e which is no t as ,

r e adily oxidi z e d as t h e hy dra t e Th e final dy e ing is also ap t t o

.

com e o ut ra t h e r un e v e n B is t r e can also b e produc e d on co t t on

.

by t h e u se of po t assium p e rmanganat e as may b e shown in t h e ,

following mann e r : Work a sk e in of co tt on for 1 5 minu t e s in

a cold bat h con t aining 2 p e r c e n t of po t assium p e rmanganat e
. .

Th e co t t on will b e found t o t urn brown rapidly on e xposur e t o

t h e air ; squ e e z e wash and soap in t h e usual mann e r
, ,

M angan e se brown i s d e colori z e d by t r e at m e n t wi t h e i t h e r

hydroge n p e roxid e or sulphurous aci d ; wh e r e in i t diffe rs from
t h e brown ob t ain e d from iron oxid e In ord e r t o s h ow t his
.

b e hav i or t ak e a small sampl e e ach of iron buff and bis t r e and

,
2 46 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EM IS TR Y .

has b e e n r e comm e nd e d aft e r impr e gna t ing t h e co t t on wi t h t he

,

mangan e s e sal t t o pass i t t hrough a bat h con t ai ning ammoni a

,

and po t assium bichromat e wh e r e by a ra t h e r uns t abl e mangan e s e

,

c h romat e i s pr e ci pi t at e d in t h e fibr e ; t his gradually d e compos e s ,

and t h e chromic acid lib e rat e d r e ac t s wi t h mangan ous hydrat e ,

forming t h e high e r oxid e of man gan e s e Th e oxidat ion i s .

compl e t e d by pass i ng t h e co t t on t hrough a dilu t e b at h of

bl e aching powd e r .

Expe ri m e n t 1 3 0 Chr o m e Gre e n o n Co tt o n

. A p al e dull .

shad e of gr e e n c an b e ob t ain e d on co t t on by pr e cipi t a t ing on

t h e fibr e oxid e of chromium Cr O s Proc e e d as follows : Work
, z
.

a t e s t sk e in of co t t on for 3 0 minu t e s in a cold bat h consis t ing of

-

a 1 0 pe r c e n t solu t ion of chrom e al um ; squ e e z e and pass in t o a

.
,

ba t h con t aining 1 0 p e r c e nt i o f sod a ash ; e n t e r cold and gradu

al ly bring t o t h e boil Wash w e ll and soap in t h e usu al mann e r
.

B y r e p e at ing t h e op e ra t ions s e v e ral t im e s full e r shad e s

may b e ob t ain e d Chromium oxid e giv e s a s e a gr e e n color on
.
,
-

co tt on which is e xc e e dingly fas t t o ligh t washing and al kali e s ; , ,

i t is al so fas t t o e xposur e b u t is d e colori z e d by t h e ac t ion of acids

,
.

Th e color of chrom e gr e e n may b e brigh t e n e d som e wha t by

passing t h e dy e d co t t on t hrough a bat h O f dilu t e copp e r sulpha t e
( t h e ba t h should b e v e ry dilu t e and warm ) C hrom e gr e e n i s .

s e ldom use d at t he pr e s e n t t im e as a s e lf color on co t t on b u t ,

i t has had e x t e nsiv e u se in conjunc t ion wi t h iron bu ff for t h e

produc t ion of t h e so call e d kha ki color wi t h which t h e se rvic e
-

uniform of t he army i s dy e d In ord e r t o ob t ain t his khaki .

color proc e e d as follows : Work a t e s t sk e in of co t t on in a cold -

b at h consis t ing of a 5 p e r c e n t solu t ion of fe rric chlorid e wi t h

.

a 5 p e r c e n t solu t ion of chrom e alum t h e n pass in t o a bat h con

.
,

t aining 1 0 p e r c e n t of sod a ash ; e n t e r cold and gradually bring

.

t o t h e boil . Wash w e ll and soap as usual ,

B y vary
ing t h e r e lat iv e amoun t s of iron and chromium sal t s or by t h e ,

add i t ion of a small amoun t of mangan e s e sal t t h e shad e of t his ,

khaki color may b e vari e d in ord e r t o ob t ain any t on e d e sir e d .

.

Expe ri m e n t 1 3 1 Pru ss i an B lu e o n Co tt on o r Wo o l
. Th e .
-

produc t ion of t his color d e p e nds on t h e pr e cipi t at ion of a ferro

 TH E MIN ERAL D YES TUF F S .

cyanid e of iron wi t hin t h e fibr e O n co t t on i t i s dy e d as follows

.

Work a t e s t sk e in of co t t on in a boiling bat h of ni t rat e of iron

-

(3 2
°
T w ) also
. con t aining 5 p e r c e n t of s t annous chlorid e ;.s t e e p
for 3 0 minu t e s squ e e z e and pass in t o a bat h con t aining 1 0 p e r
, ,

c e n t of po t assium fe rrocyanid e (y e llow prussiat e of po t ash ) ;

.

work warm for 1 5 minu t e s ; t h e n pass back in t o t h e b at h o f

ni t ra t e of iron again ; finally squ e e z e wash and soft e n in a soap , ,

bat h He avi e r shad e s may b e O b t ain e d by r e p e at ing t h e s e

O p e ra t ions s e v e r al t im e s ; t h e co t t on how e v e r should always b e
, ,

work e d las t in t h e b at h of n it rat e of iron in ord e r t o pr e v e n t t h e

format ion of a solubl e v ar i e t y of Pru sS1 an blu e For dy e ing wool .

proc e e d as follows : Work a t e s t sk e in of wool in a b at h con t aining

-

1 0 p e r c e n t of po t assium fe rricyanid e (r e d prussia t e of po t ash )

.
,

2 0 p e r c e n t of sulphuric acid and 1 p e r c e n t of s t annous chlorid e ;

.
,
.

e n t e r cold and gradually rais e t o t h e boil wh e n t h e wool will t urn ,

gr e e n and fi nally b e com e blu e Aft e r boiling for 1 0 minu t e s

.
,

lift and add 1 p e r c e n t more of s t annous chlorid e and work for

,
.
,

1 5 minu t e s long e r Finally wash w e ll in fr e sh wat e r

.

Th e d e p t h of shad e may b e vari e d by e mploying gr e a t e r or l e ss

,

amoun t s of po t assium fe rricyanid e If t h e blu e c olor do e s no t .

d e v e lop prop e rly a fe w drops of ni t ric acid may b e add e d t o t h e

b at h for t h e purpose of acc e l e ra t ing t h e oxidat ion Ano t h e r .

m e t hod of dy e ing t his color on wool is t o u se 1 5 t o 2 0 p e r c e n t o f . .

po t assium fe rrocyanid e wi t h t h e addi t ion of a sm al l am oun t o f

al um and t ar t ar t o t h e b a t h .

Prussian blu e also go e s by t h e nam e of B e rlin blu e ; i t was

form e rly a ve ry impor t an t color bo t h for co tt on and wool , ,

and is e v e n s t ill us e d t o a consid e rabl e e x t e n t e sp e cially in prin t ,

ing B e for e t h e in t roduc t ion of Ali z arin B lu e i t was e x t e nsive ly

.

e mploy e d for t h e dy e ing of army uniforms Prussian blu e .

app e ars t o b e a complicat e d cyanog e n Compound of iron t h e ,

e xac t t on e of which vari e s consid e rably wi t h t h e mann e r of i t s

produc t ion Though no t now e mploy e d as a s e lf color in dy e ing

.

of silk Prussian blu e how e ve r is s t ill us e d as a bo t t om color in

, , ,

t h e dy e ing of w e igh t e d black on t his fibr e Prussian blu e is .

fast t o ligh t washing and e xposur e ; i t is also fas t t o dilu t e acids

, , ,
2 48 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EM IS TR Y .

b ut i s d i ssolv e d by s t rong e r acids also by a conc e n t rat e d solu t ion

,

of oxalic acid Wi t h caus t ic al kali i t is d e compose d in t o po t as

.

s i um fe rrocyanid e and brown oxid e of iron This lat t e r r e ac t i on

.

is s t i ll us e d for d i scharg e work in prin t ing Th e ac t ion of .

s t annous chlorid e in t h e dy e ing of Prussi an blu e is t o brigh t e n

and giv e a r e ddish t on e t o t h e shad e probably d u e t o t h e forma
,

t ion of a t i n f e rrocyanid e A brigh t gr e e n color on co tt on may

.

b e produc e d by t he combin e d and simul t an e ous u se of Prussian

blu e and chrom e y e llow in t h e following mann e r : Work a t e s t
sk e in of co t t on in a cold bat h con t aining 1 0 p e r c e n t of fe rrous .

ac e t at e and 1 0 p e r c e n t of l e ad ac e t at e for 3 0 minu t e s ; squ e e z e

.
,

and p ass in t o a bat h con t aining 5 p e r c e n t of po t assiu m fe rro .

cyanid e and 2 p e r c e n t of po t assium bichromat e Squ e e z e wash

. .
,

w e ll and soap as usual

,

B oiling soap solu t ions d e compos e Prussian blu e l e aving t h e ,

brown oxid e of iron on t h e fibr e O n prolonge d e xposure t o .

sunligh t t h e color b e come s som e what ligh t e r b u t t he orig i n al

, ,

t on e is r e s t or e d on b e ing k e p t in t h e dark for som e t im e .

Th e t h e ory of t h e applica t ion of Prussian blu e t o wool is t hat

wh e n a m i n e r al acid is add e d t o a solu t ion of po t assium fe rri
cyanid e t h e corr e sponding hydro fe rricyanic acid is l i b e ra t e d ;
,
-

t h i s und e r t h e influ e nc e of h e a t and oxida t ion is d e compos e d wi t h

t h e pr e cipi t a t ion of Prussian blu e If ni t ric acid is e mploy e d in
.

t h e b at h t h e shad e of blu e is som e wha t gr e e n e r t han wh e n t h e

,

o t h e r min e ral acids a re use d Y e llow prussiat e of po t ash may

.

b e us e d ins t e ad of t h e r e d in which cas e i t was t h e cus t om of

,

dy e rs t o u se a mix t ur e of t h e t hr e e min e r al acids und e r t h e nam e

“ ” “
of roy al blu e spiri t s or simply blu e spiri t s
,
N i t ric acid is
.

t h e b e s t acid t o e mploy in conn e c t ion wi t h po t assium f e rro

cyanid e o n accoun t of i t s oxidi z ing ac t ion Th e s t annous
.

chlorid e was form e rly us e d by t h e dy e r in t h e form of a solu t ion

kno w n as muriat e of t i n or finish ing blu e spiri t s
“ “ ”
Th e .

solu t ion in t his form oft e n con t ain e d sulphuric and ox al ic

acids .
 5 0 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EM IS TR Y .

Th e min e ral colors di ffe r in t h e principl e of t h e ir dy e ing from

t ha t of t h e co al t ar dy e s in t ha t t h e y ar e s t ric t ly of a pigm e n t
-

charac t e r Th e r e is no combinat ion b e t w e e n t h e coloring

.

mat t e r and t h e fibre i t se lf ; t h e r e is o nl y a uniform pr e c i pi t at ion

of t h e fin e ly divid e d insolubl e pigm e n t t hroughou t t he c e lls of
t h e fibr e caus e d by t h e ch e mical doubl e d e composi t ion b e t w e e n
,

t h e t w o solubl e sal t s e mploy e d .Th e m e t allic s al t i s absorb e d

by t h e fibr e from i t s solu t ion by osmosis in t o t h e c e lls of t he
lat t e r ; as t h e osmo t ic ac t ion is compara t ive ly slow in ord e r t hat,

t h e final dy e ing b e t horoughly p e n e t ra t e d i t is advisabl e t o allow

,

t h e co t t on t o s t e e p in t h e solu t ion of t h e m e t all ic sal t for a con

s i d e r a b le t im e and b e for e b e ing e n t e re d in t h e bat h t he yarn or
,

clo t h should b e t horoughly w e tt e d o u t e lse t h e fibr e will no t

, “

b e com e compl e t e ly impr e gnat e d wi t h t h e sal t Aft e r t horough

.

sat urat ion t h e goods may e v e n b e rins e d in fr e sh wa t e r wi t hou t

f e ar of washing o u t t h e m e t allic sal t h e ld in t he por e s or c e lls of
t h e fibr e ; in fac t a mod e ra t e rinsing may b e consid e r e d b e n e
,

fi c i al as i t s e rv e s t o r e mov e t h e e xc e ss of solu t ion adh e ring t o

,

t h e ou t sid e of t h e fibr e s and b e t w e e n t h e in t e rs t ic e s of t h e fibr e s

t h e ms e lv e s as t his i s no t r e mov e d by a simpl e squ e e z ing or

,

wringing This por t ion of t h e m e t allic sal t solu t i on no t h e ld

.

o smo t ically by t h e fibr e would com e o ff t o a c e r t ain e x t e n t in t h e

s ucc e e ding ba t h wh e r e in t h e pigm e n t i s form e d t hus causing an
,

u nn e c e ssary consump t ion of ch e mic al s and t h e con t am i na t ion

,

o f t h e s e cond b a t h wi t h a pr e c i pi t a t e Th e r e would al so b e
.

form e d a loos e ly adh e r e n t pr e cipi t a t e of pigm e n t in t h e in t e rs t ic e s

b e t w e e n t h e fibr e s which would no t prov e fas t t o washing or
,

r ubbing ,
and in t h e cas e of yarn would also dus t o ff in t h e
h andli ng t h e r e of b e sid e s adding consid e rably and unn e c e ssarily
,

t o t h e harshn e ss of t h e co tt on .Th e ac t ion of t h e se cond or

pr e cipi t a t ing solu t i on is also by osmosis Tak i ng t h e format ion
.

o f chrom e y e llow as an e xampl e ,

t h e solu t ion of po t assium
bichromat e gradually pass e s by osmosis i n t o t h e por e s of t h e
fibr e wh e r e i t com e s in con t ac t wi t h t h e l e ad ac e t at e alr e ady
,

pr e se n t ; t h e insoluble chromat e of l e ad s e p ara t e s o u t and t hus ,

i s h e ld s e cur e ly in t he por e s of t h e fi br e whil e t h e se cond m e mb e r

,
 TH E MIN ERAL D YES TUFF S .
51

of t he r e ac t ion t he po t assium ac e t a t e b e ing a solubl e sal t p ass e s

, , ,

back in t o t he b at h again by osmosis .

M ost of t h e min e ral colors are ve ry ch e ap in t h e ir applicat ion ,

b u t i t is rat h e r di ffi c ul t t o d y e t h e m t o a ma t ch e d shad e Th e ir .

e xc e p t ional fas t n e ss t o ligh t and washing is t h e ir principal

advan t age .

2. Th e Mi no r Pi gm e nt Co lo r s — Th e r e ar e a numb e r of
.

m e t allic pigm e n t colors which may b e produc e d in t h e fibr e

b e sid e s t h e on e s which have b e e n m e n t ion e d in t h e for e going
pag e s Th e y are how e v e r of o nl y t h e or e t ical val u e and poss e ss
.
, ,

no prac t ical impor t anc e t o t h e dy e r A brown color may b e .

dy e d on wool by working i t in a bat h con t aining l e ad ac e t at e and

lim e ; t h e sulphur pr e s e n t in t h e wool comb i n e s t o form l e ad
sulphid e A gray color on co t t on may b e produc e d by working
.

t h e la t t e r in a ba t h con t aining m e rcury ni t ra t e squ e e z ing and , ,

p assing t hrough a bat h con t aining sodiu m sulphid e Co t t on .

may b e dy e d wi t h r e d oxid e of l e ad by s t e e ping in a ba t h of l e ad

ac e t at e and t h e n p assing t hrough a bat h con t aining a mix t ur e of
c aus t ic soda and chlorid e of lim e A blu e color on co t t on may
.

b e ob t ain e d by working in a bat h con t aining ammonium mo ly b

dat e and d e v e loping in a b at h con t aining s t annous chlorid e and
hydrochloric acid A y e llow color on co t t on or wool may b e
.

ob t ain e d by t h e u se of t i t anium sal t s (se e t h e applica t ion of

t h e s e sal t s in mordan t ing ) Cadmium y e llow may b e pr e cipi t a t e d
.

in co tt on by firs t s t e e ping in a solu t ion of cadmium ni t ra t e or

chlorid e and passing t hrough a b at h con t aining sodium sulphid e .

Sch e e le s gr e e n may b e dy e d by firs t s t e e ping t h e mat e rial in a

’

solu t ion of copp e r sulphat e t h e n passing t hrough a bat h of

,

c aus t ic soda wh e r e by copp e r hydrat e is form e d and finally

, ,

t r e a t ing wi t h a solu t ion of ars e nious acid r e sul t ing in t h e

,

format ion of gr e e n copp e r ars e ni t e Ano t h e r gr e e n may b e .

mad e in t h e fibr e by s t e e ping in a solu t ion of chrom e alum ,

p a ss m g t hrough a ba t h of caus t ic soda and finally t hrough a

b a t h of sodium ars e ni t e B o t h of t h e s e gr ee n colors are v e ry
.

p 0 1 s o n o u s .
2 52 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE C H EMIS TR Y .

S AMP LES .

Ch ro me y w e llo
n tt o co o n .

Ch ro m e y ll w wi th dm i m lt
e o ca u sa .

Ch ro m e ng
o ra tt n e o n co o .

Ch ro m e g b i gh t d wi th li m
o ra n e r e ne e .

Iro n b ff n t t n
u o co o .

I on b ff
r i di d wi t h h l i d
u o x f li m
ze c o r e o e .

I n b ff t pp d w i t h Ali
ro u o in R d e za r e .

I n b ff t pp d w i t h Ali
ro u o in Bl e z ar ue .

I n b ff t pp d w i t h f t i
ro u o e us c .

I n g y n
ro ra tt n o co o .

M g b wn n t t n
a n a ne se ro o co o .

Bi t dy d with p t
s re e i m p m ng t o ass u er a a na e .

Anili n B l k d y d n b i t
e ac e o s re .

Bi t dy d n w l
s re e o oo .

Ch m g ro en n tt n
re e o co o .

K h k i dy d n
a tt e o co o n .

P i n bl
ru ss a tt u e o n co o n .

P i n bl
ru ss a n w l ue o o o .

G n
re e n o tt wi th P i bl nd h
co o n ru ss a n ue a c ro me y e llo w .

Q U IZ 2I .

63 9 . Of wh at do e s ch ro me y e llo w c o n si s t ? Ho w i s i t a ppli ed t o co tt o n ?

Ho w a re h e a vi e r s h a de s o bt a i ne d ?
640 . g f l d ? H w i b t t f l d p p d ? Wh t
Wh at is su ar o ea o s su -
a ce a e o ea re a re a

c h mi l
e ti n t k
ca pl in t h d y i g f h m y ll w ?
re a c o a es a ce e e n o c ro e e o

64 O w h t fib
1 . i nh m y ll w d y d ? Wh y i i t n
a re s yt s c ro e e o e s e ce s sa r o u se

t h b th f l d a
e a lt fi t ? Wh t i t h
o ea ff t n t h
s l if t h
rs h m b th a s e e ec o e co o r e c ro e a

b m lk li ?
e co es a a ne

64 Wh t i t h g n l f t
2 . a f h m y ll w ? Wh y i i t n t f t t
s e e e ra a s ne s s o c ro e e o s o as o

ex p i i t y i ? E pl i t h
o su re n c h mi l a r ti i g x a n e c e ca re a c o n o ccu rr n .

64 3 H w m y th di
. ol ti f h m y ll w b p
a e nt d ? Wh t
s co o ra o n o c ro e e o e re ve e a

i th
s ff t f lk li
e e ec h m y ll w ? O f t
o a a g ti d ?
es o n c ro e e o s ro n ca u s c so a

6 44 H w i . h m ong dy d n
s tt n ?
c O f wh t d
ro et hi lo ra e e o co o a o es s co o r

c o ns i s t ?
64 5 . Ho w m ay ch ro me o ra n g e be b i gh tr e ne d ? Th ro u h g wh at ra n g e o f
co lo r may ch ro me o ra n e g be p ro du ce d ? Wh a t i s t he g l
e ne ra fast ne ss o f
ch ro me o ra n e g ?
646 . Wh a t m ay b e sa i d r e g a r di n g the p o i so no u s ch a ra ct e r o f the ch ro me
co lo r s ? Ho w m ay t h e yb e t e s t e d fo r o n t he fib re ?
64 7 . Of wh at d o e s i ro n b uff co n si s t ? Ho w i s i t a ppli ed to co t to n ? Give
t he ch e m i ca l re a ct i o n whi ch ta k ples a ce .
 SECTI O N XX II .

TH E V AT DYES .

Expe ri m e n t 1Pr e p arati o n o f In di go So l u ti on

32 . Mix 7 5 .

grams of indigo p as t e ( 2 0 p e r c e n t ) wi t h 40 cc of h o t wat e r and

. .
,

cc of caus ic soda solu ion ( 4 Tw ) and 5 0 grams of hydro

°
9 0 . t t 2 .

sulphi t e powd e r (B lanki t T) dissolv e d in 2 00 cc of wa t e r St ir . .

g e n t ly and k e e p t h e t e mp e rat ur e at abou t 1 1 0 F In a shor t °

.

t im e t h e liquor should b e of a cl e ar amb e r y e llow color wi t h a -

film of blu e on t h e t o p Th e liquid now con t ains indigo

.

whi t e and s e rv e s as a s t ock indigo solu t ion for t he pr e para t ion of

t he dye v at -
Th e hydrosulphi t e powd e r (B lanki t T ) i s a fo r m al d e
.

hyd e compound of sodium hydrosulphi t e and is a fairly s t abl e body

comp ar e d wi t h mos t hydrosulphi t e d e rivat ive s It is a s t rong .

r e ducing ag e n t and conv e r t s t h e indigo blu e in t o indigo whi t e - -

.

In plac e of t his pr e p ar e d form of hydrosulphi t e t h e solu t ion of

sodium hydrosu lphi t e i t s e lf may b e us e d in which cas e i t may b e ,

pr e p ar e d as fo llows : 1 3 0 grams of z inc dus t are mad e in t o a

pas t e wi t h 5 5 cc of wat e r which is t h e n mix e d wi t h 1 0 00 cc of
.
,
.

sodium bisulphi t e solu t ion of 7 2 Tw As t he mix t ur e i s liabl e

°
.

t o b e com e h e a t e d t h e t e mp e ra t ur e should b e k e p t b e low 1 00 F

°
.
,

by t h e addi t ion of i c e or cold wat e r ; wh e n t h e ch e mic al ac t ion h as

c e as e d dilu t e t o 2 l i t r e s and allow t o s t and for o ne hour Th e n
,
.

s t ir in 2 0 0 cc of a 2 0 p e r c e n t milk o f lim e cold and allow t o

. .
- -
, ,

s t and for 2 hou rs This cause s t h e pr e cipi t at ion of all t h e z inc

.

as z inc hydra t e Th e liquor i s t h e n s t rain e d t o fr e e i t from

.

s e d i m e n t an d pr e s e rv e d in a clos e d bo t t l e Th e hydrosulphi t e
,
.

solu t ion t hus pr e par e d if k e p t in a cool plac e will las t for s e ve ral
, ,

w e e ks and i t s k e e ping quali t y will b e e nhanc e d by t h e addi t ion

,

of a small quan t i t y of caus t ic soda solu t ion Wh e n z inc dus t

‘

r e ac t s w i t h a solu t ion of sodium bisulphi t e t he following ch e mical

change t ak e s plac e :
 TH E VA T D YES .
55

Zn 3 N a H S O 3
N aHSO 2 Zn H2 O .

Zi nc So di u m b i lph i t
su e So y
d i u m h d ro i nc -s o d i u m
Zbi lph i t Wat e r
su lph i t e
.

su e

Sodium hydrosulphi t e is a s t rong r e ducing ag e n t b e ing i t s e lf ,

oxidi z e d finally t o sodium bisulphat e N aH SO It s u s e forms

, 4
.

a v e ry conv e ni e n t m e ans for t h e pr e p arat ion of dy e ing solut io ns

of indigo as w e ll as t h e o t h e r v at dy e s Th e sodium h y d ro s u l .

hi t solu t ion is usually pr e par e d by t h e dy e r as a s t ock solu t ion

p e ,

and us e d as occasion r e quir e s for t h e r e duc t ion of t h e dy e s t u ff

t o b e add e d t o t h e v a t .

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 3 3 Dy e i n g In di go w i t h Hy dro su l ph i t e Va t
. .

Pr e par e t h e d y e v a t as follows : t o o n e li t r e of wa t e r ( 7 0 F )
-
°
.

add 2 grams of B lanki t T (or 1 0 cc of t h e above pr e p ar e d hydro .

sulphi t e liquor ) ; allow t o s t and for 1 5 minu t e s t h e n run in 1 0 0 cc ,

.

of t h e s t ock indigo solu t ion by m e ans of a long t ub e d funn e l — .

St ir g e n t ly and all ow t o s t and for 3 0 minu t e s Wh e n t h e liquor .

is cl e ar and of an amb e r y e llow color i t is r e ady for u s e Tak e

-
.

a t e s t sk e in of co t t on yarn which has b e e n boil e d o u t and squ e e z e d

-

( b u t n o t dri e d ) and pass i t t hrough t his indigo v a t wi t hou t h e a t ing .

Tak e car e t o manipula t e t h e dy e ing so as t o di s t urb t h e liquor

as l i t t l e as possibl e as much e xposur e t o t h e air will caus e undu e
,

oxida t ion and consid e rabl e indigo will b e pr e cipi t at e d in t h e

v at. Wh e n t he sk e in h as b e com e t horoughly and e v e nly sat u
rat e d wi t h t h e l i quor squ e e z e i t o u t We ll and t h e n e xpos e t h e
, ,

sk e in t o t h e air for 5 or 1 0 m i nu t e s Wh e n t h e sk e in firs t com e s

.

from t h e v at i t should b e of a y e llowish gr e e n color ; on e xposur e

t o t h e air i t soon t urns blu e Th e dy e d sk e in i s t h e n wash e d
.

w e ll in wat e r and aft e rwards in a warm soap solu t ion in ord e r t o

‘

r e mov e all alkali and u nfix e d dy e s t uff Dy e a s e cond

t e s t sk e in of co t t on yarn in a similar mann e r b u t af t e r oxidi z ing
-

in t h e air giv e i t a s e cond passag e t hrough t h e indigo v a t and

oxidi z e again aft e r which wash and soap This will r e pr e s e n t
, .

t h e color ob t ain e d by t wo dips In t h e sam e mann e r

d y e a t hird sk e in giving i t four dips
,
Also d y e sk e ins of
wool e n yarn in t he sam e mann e r giving o ne di p , t wo
dips (4 2 4 ) and four dips For t h e wool e n yarn u se a
 56 D Y EIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EM IS TR Y .

firs t wash wat e r ac i dulat e d wi t h a li t t l e sulphuric acid in ord e r

t o n e u t ral i z e t h e alkali ; t h e n wash w e ll again in pla i n wa t e r and
finally soap If t h e d y e v at t urns blu i sh owing t o oxidat i on a fr e s h
.
-

quan t i t y of hydrosulph i t e m us t b e add e d t h e liquor s t irr e d g e n t ly

,

and allow e d t o s t and for 1 5 minu t e s To main t ain t h e prop e r

.

dy e ing s t r e ng t h of t h e v at fr e sh add i t ions of t h e s t ock solu t ion

of indigo are mad e from t im e t o t im e as n e e d e d If t o o much .

hydrosulphi t e is pr e se n t in t h e v at t h e color will no t b e w e ll t ak e n

up and t h e blu e will no t d e v e lop quickly on e xposur e t o t h e air .

Th e hydrosulphi t e v a t for indigo is t h e simpl e s t and t h e mos t

popular m e t hod of applying t his dy e s t uff a t t he pr e s e n t t im e .

O t h e r forms of vat s d e p e nding on t h e nat ur e of t h e r e ducing

,

ag e n t hav e b e e n us e d Th e ferme ntat i o n v a t is t h e old e s t form

,
.

of indigo dy e ing and i s s t ill use d t o a consid e rabl e e xt e n t in wool

dy e ing It s op e ra t ion d e p e nds on t h e r e duc i ng ac t ion of c e r t ain
.

fe rm e n t s and i t is pr e par e d wi t h bran woad and madd e r Th e

, , ,
.

woad is suppos e d t o furnish t h e p ar t i cular fe rm e n t wh i l e t h e ,

bran and madd e r s e rv e as nourishm e n t for t h e grow t h of t h e fe r

m e n t Th e alkali e mploy e d is lim e which s e rv e s t h e doubl e
.
,

purpos e of n e u t rali z ing t h e ac i d lib e rat e d in t h e fe rm e n t at ion

and providi n g t h e al kali n e c e ssary for t h e solu t ion of t h e
r e duc e d indigo Th e fe rm e n t at ion v a t i s di fli c ult t o pr e p ar e and
.

also d i ffi cul t t o main t ai n in prop e r working condi t ion Th e .

co pp e ra s v a t e mploys f e rrous sulpha t e as t h e r e ducing ag e n t and

lim e as t h e alkal i It is a cumb e rsom e an d unsa t isfac t ory

.

m e t hod and i s no t us e d a t pr e s e n t Th e zi nc v a t us e s z inc dus t

.

for th e r e duc i ng ag e n t and e i t h e r l i m e or caus t ic soda as t h e

al kali It i s qu i t e an e ffic i e n t form of v a t and is s t i ll e mploy e d
.

consid e rably in co t t on dy e ing All of t h e se vat s how e v e r con

.
, ,

t a i n a larg e amoun t of s e d i m e n t and car e mus t b e t ak e n in

,

dy e ing no t t o dis t urb t hi s s e d i m e n t or i t w i ll ge t in t o t h e good s

b e ing dy e d Th e r e i s also cons i d e rabl e loss of i nd i go in t h e s e
.

vat s w h e r e as i n t h e hydrosulp h i t e v at t h e r e i s no s e dim e n t an d

, ,

t h e loss of i nd i go is e xc e e d i ngly small .

Te s t t h e fas t n e ss of t h e ind i go dy e i ngs t o l i g h t was h i n g , ,

full ing acids and c h lo ri ng (on co tt on )

, ,
.
2 58 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EM IS TR Y .

t he l i quor is cl e ar and shows no undissolve d par t icl e s (t e s t by

dropping on a pi e c e of fil t e r p ap e r ) t h e bat h is r e ady for dy e ing , .

Dy e a t e s t sk e in of co t t on yarn in t his bat h for o n e hour at 1 2 0 F

- °
.

K e e p t h e co t t on b e n e a t h t h e liquor and e xpos e t h e b at h as l i t t l e

as possibl e t o t h e ac t ion of t h e ai r Aft e r dy e ing rins e w e ll in .

wat e r t h e n in wat e r sligh t ly acidulat e d wi t h sulphuric acid and

, ,

finally in a dilu t e soap b at h Te s t t h e fas t n e ss of t his

color t o ligh t washing and bl e aching
, ,
.

Th e indan t hr e n e colors a re b e s t appli e d in m e ch anical dy e ing

apparat us so t hat t h e liquor during C1rc ulat i o n com e s in t o
con t ac t wi t h t h e air as li t t l e as possible Th e ind an t h r e n e .

dy e st u ffs are som e what di ffe r e n t in t h e ir b e havior t han t he

ind i go dy e s as t h e y e xhaust v e ry w e ll from t h e bat h and t he
,

color dy e s up dir e c t ly on t he fibr e and do e s no t r e qui re a sub

s e qu e n t oxida t ion O n t his accoun t t h e amoun t of coloring
.

mat t e r t o b e us e d may b e base d dire c t ly on a p e rc e n t ag e of

t h e ma t e ri al dy e d .

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 3 6 Use o f In d an t h r e n e Ye llo w Pr e p ar e a
‘

. .

d y e ba t h as abov e using 1 0 p e r c e n t of Ind an t hr e n e Y e llow G

-
, .
,

and d ye a t e st sk e in of co tt on y ar n for o ne hour a t a t e mp e ra t ur e

-

of 1 40 F It will b e no t ic e d t hat t his dy e s t u ff on r e duc t ion give s

°
.

a blu e solu t ion and t hat t h e co t t on is blu e in color wh e n firs t

t ak e n from t h e d y e ba t h For t h e b e t t e r d e v e lopm e n t of t hi s
-
.

color af t e r dy e ing squ e e z e rins e in wa t e r and t h e n pass t hrough

, , , ,

a v e ry dilu t e cold solu t ion of chrom e gra m p e r li t r e ) This .

fac i li t at e s t h e oxidat ion of t he color v e ry mat e ri ally Finally .

wash w e ll and soap as usu al Te s t t h i s color for fas t n e ss

t o l i gh t washing and bl e aching
, ,
.

Expe ri m e n t 1 3 7 Pr o du c ti on o f F a s t Pi n k wi t h In d an t h r e n e
.

Dy e s . Pr e p ar e a d ye b at h as in E xp 1 3 5 using 3 p e r c e n t
-
.
,
.

of Indan t hr e n e R e d B and d y e a t e st sk e in of co tt on yarn for ,

-

o n e hour a t 1 40 F Wash w e ll and rinse in dilu t e acid and

°
.
,

finally soap This color g i v e s a rat h e r brigh t pink wh e n us e d

in small p e rc e n t age s and t h e color i s v e ry fas t t o ligh t wash i ng , ,

ac i ds and bl e aching
, B y combining wi t h small amoun t s of
.

Indan t hr e n e Y e llow R brig h t y e llowish pinks may b e ob t ain e d,

.
 TH E VA T D YES . 2 59

Ex me nt
p i
e r Use o f Cib a B l u e
1 38 Pr e p ar e t h e d y e v a t as
. .
— -

follows : M ak e a p as t e wi t h o 5 gram of Cib a B lu e 2 B (powd e r ) .

,

1 cc caus t ic soda ( 7 6 Tw ) solu t ion and som e h o t wat e r ; also

.
°
.
,

dissolv e 2 grams of hydrosulphi t e powd e r (B lanki t T) in 1 5 cc .

of cold wat e r and 1 cc of caus t ic soda solu t ion Th e n add t his . .

hydrosulphi t e solu t ion t o t h e dy e s t u ff dilu t e t o 4 00 cc wi t h h o t ,

.

wa t e r and slowly boil Th e dy e v at should t h e n b e compl e t e ly

.
-

r e duc e d and b e of a gold e n y e llow color Dy e a t e st sk e in of .

-

co t t on yarn in t his b at h for 3 0 minu t e s at 1 7 0 F squ e e z e w e ll °

,

and allow t o oxidi z e in t h e air for 1 5 minu t e s ; t h e n rins e w e ll in

cold wat e r and fi nally work in a boiling dilu t e soap b at h
,

Th e t r e a t m e n t wi t h t h e boiling soap b at h v e ry ma t e rially brigh t e ns

t h e color and al so giv e s i t gr e at e r fas t n e ss t o washing and
,

bl e aching A s t ill gr e at e r fas t n e ss t o bl e aching may b e ob t ain e d

.

by an aft e r t r e a t me n t wi t h blu e s t on e in t h e usual mann e r

-
.

NOTES .

1 . Cl a s ses o f Va t Dy e s
dy e s includ e i ndi go . Th e v at
,

t hi o i ndi go dyes , i nda nt h re ne dy es ci b a dyes

-
and a lgo l dyes , ,
.

Wi t h t h e e xc e p t ion of indigo t h e y are all of co mp ar a t i ve ly re ce nt

'

in t roduc t ion Th e dy e s t u ffs t h e ms e lve s are insolubl e in wat e r b u t

.

wh e n r e duc e d t h e y yi e ld produc t s which are solubl e in al k al i e s .

Th e r e for e t h e d ye b at h consis t s of a mix t ur e of t h e dy e s t u ff

-
,

a s t rong r e ducing ag e n t and an al kali solu t ion ; such a mix t ur e ,

is t e rm e d a v at Indigo is a blu e dy e st u ff ; t h e t hio indigo dy e s

.
-

includ e a purpli sh re d and a scarl e t ; t h e indan t hr e n e dy e s com

pris e blu e viol e t gray y e llow brown gr e e n and dull r e d color
, , , , , ,

ing mat t e rs ; among t h e cib a dy e s ar e t o b e found blu e viol e t

-
,

and r e d colors as also among t h e algol dy e s Th e v a t dy e s ar e in

,
.

g e n e ral charac t e ri z e d by gr e at fas t n e ss t o ligh t washing acids , , ,

alkali e s and in som e c as e s t o bl e aching wi t h chlorid e of lim e

,
.

This mak e s t h e m v e ry valuabl e produc t s b u t a t t h e pr e s e n t ,

t im e wi t h t h e e xc e p t ion of indigo t h e y ar e v e ry e xp e nsiv e

,
Th e , .

v a t dy e s may b e appli e d t o all fibr e s b u t t h e y a r e probably mor e ,

sui t e d t o t h e dy e ing of co t t on on accoun t of t h e alkalin e nat ur e

of t h e d ye v at Th e mat e ri al t o b e dy e d is simply imm e rs e d in
-
.
2 60 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE C H EMIS TR Y .

t h e dy e ba t h or v at un t il t horoughly impr e gnat e d wi t h t h e solu

-

t ion ; i t is t h e n squ e e z e d and e xpos e d t o t h e ai r which caus e s t h e ,

oxidat ion of t h e r e duc e d l e uco compound and t h e forma t ion

of t h e color Th e t e mp e rat ur e of t h e v at is usu al ly luk e warm
.

for t h e purpos e of facili t at ing t h e impr e gnat ion of t h e fibr e wi t h

t h e S olu t ion In som e cas e s t h e d i pping and oxida t ion have t o
.

b e r e p e a t e d s e ve r al t im e s in building up a h e avy color .

2
. In di go Th is is o ne of t h e old e s t d y e s t u fl s of which w e
.

hav e any knowl e dg e and e v e n a t t he pr e s e n t t im e i t is p e rhaps

,

t h e mos t impor t an t and e x t e nsiv e ly us e d of all dy e s Up t o .

wi t hin rat h e r r e c e n t y e ars indigo was ob t ain e d from t h e indigo

plan t e x t e nsiv e ly c ul t ivat e d in Indi a and o t h e r Asia t ic coun t ri e s ,

as w e ll as t h e t ropical coun t ri e s of Ce n t ral and Sou t h Am e rica .

Pr e vious t o t h e in t roduc t ion of t h e ori e n t al indi go ( abou t

1 5 00 A D ) in t o E urop e
. . t h e sam e d y e h ad b e e n e x t rac t e d from
,

a plan t known as w o a d (Is a ti s ti ncto ri a ) Th e indigo plan t i s .

bo t an ically known as Indi gofera and t h e r e are s e v e ral sp e ci e s

, ,

t h e mor e impor t an t of which are I t i nct o r i a I a ni l I d i s p e r ma

.
,
.
,
.
,

and I a rge ntea Woad is s t ill use d t o som e e x t e n t in t h e pre p ara

. .

t ion of c e r t ain va t s b u t only in conn e c t ion wi t h ind i go and

, ,
‘

n e ve r b y i t s e lf Th e coloring principl e pr e s e n t in t h e indigo

.

plan t is known as i ndi g o t i n or i ndigo blu e Th e crud e produc t

,
.
,

how e v e r con t ains s e v e ral o t h e r subs t anc e s in varying amoun t s

, ,

such as indirubin or indigo r e d indigo brown indigo glu t in -

,
-
,
-
,

and som e min e ral mat t e rs Th e proc e ss of e xt rac t ing indigo

.

from t h e plan t is rat h e r complica t e d Th e plan t is c u t wh e n .

rip e n e d t h e l e av e s a re s t ripp e d o ff and s t e e p e d for som e t im e in

,

vat s of wat e r B y a proc e ss of fe rm e n t a t ion t h e coloring ma t t e r

.
-

which e xis t s in t h e plan t as a glucosid e (i ndi ca n ) i s chang e d t o a

solubl e form and dissolv e s in t h e wat e r yi e ld i ng an olive gr e e n ,

solu t ion Th e liquor is run o ff in t o ano t h e r v at wh e r e i t is

.
, ,

b e at e n or churn e d up so as t o e xpose i t t o t h e oxid i z ing ac t ion of

t h e air . This caus e s t h e pr e cipi t at ion of t h e insolubl e ind i go
t i n as a fine blu e mud This is co lle c t e d dri e d and pr e ss e d
.
, ,

in t o small bricks or cub e s abou t t hre e inch e s in si z e in which ,

form i t app e ars in t rad e At t h e pr e se n t t im e ind i go is al so

.
26 2 D YEIN G AN D TEX TIL E CH EM IS TR Y .

in sodium sulphid e wi t h r e duc t ion and h e nc e may b e us e d in ,

prac t ically t h e sam e mann e r as a sulphur d ye b u t t h e color so ,

ob t ain e d is no t as sat isfac t ory as wh e n produc e d from t he v at .

4 Th e In d an t h r e n e Dy es
. Th e s e dy e s ar e no t d e riva t iv e s of
.

indigo b u t a re pr e par e d from amido an t hraquinon e compounds

,
-
.

Th e y includ e qui t e a rang e of colors at t h e pr e s e n t t im e and ar e

b e ing cons t an t ly add e d t o t hough a brigh t re d and gr e e n have
,

no t y e t b e e n found Th e lis t a t t h e pr e s e nt t im e includ e s :

.

Ind a nt h re ne B lue G CD .

Indant h re ne B lue RS, R C, R SP , R2, a nd RRZ .

Indant h re ne Vi o le t RT, R e xt ra .

Ind a nt h re ne Da r k B lue B , BB , and B0 .

Indant h re ne Maro o n R .

Inda nt h re ne G ra yB .

Inda nt h re ne Y e ll w G
o a nd R .

Inda nt h re ne O ra n g e .

Indant h re ne G ree n .

Inda nt h rene Co pp er .

Inda nt h re ne B ro wn B .

Indant h re ne Re d B .

Inda nt h re ne O live G .

Th e s e dy e s are brough t in t o solu t ion in caus t ic soda by r e du e

t ion wi t h sodium hydrosulphi t e In a v a t t hus pr e p ar e d how .
,

e v e r t h e y a c t v e ry much af t e r t h e mann e r of subs t an t iv e dy e s on

,

co t t on som e of t h e m b e ing dy e d almos t a t t he boil t h e dy e in g

, ,

and d e v e lopm e n t of t he color t aking plac e almos t simul t an e ously ,

and t h e dy e bat h b e coming prac t ically e xhaus t e d Som e of

-
.

t h e s e dy e s how e v e r mus t b e appli e d at low e r t e mp e ra t ur e s

, , ,

and r e quir e subs e qu e n t oxidat ion in ord e r t o d e v e lop t h e color .

Th e indan t hr e n e dy e s a r e brough t in t o t rad e i n t h e form of

‘

pas t e s con t aining 2 0 p e r c e n t of coloring mat t e r For t h e .

-
.

produc t ion of h e avy shad e s larg e propor t ions of t h e p as t e s mus t

b e t ak e n .

5
. T h e Ci b a Dy e s Th e s e ar e h al og e n d e rivat ive s of indigo
.

and ar e appli e d in t h e sam e ge ne r aLm anne r Th e blu e dy e s of .

t his s e ri e s a r e t h e mos t impor t an t and poss e ss e xc e ll e n t fas t n e s s ,

t o ligh t washing and bl e aching wi t h chlorid e of lim e

, ,
.
 TH E VA T D YES . 263

S AMP LES .

Indi g o o n co tt o n ; o ne dip .

I di g
n o o n co t t o n ; t wo d i s p .

I di g
n o o n co t t o n ; fo ur d ip s .

Indi g o w l;
o n dip o o o ne .

Ind i g o n w ol ; t w di p oo o s .

I di g
n o n w ol; f di p oo o ur s .

Th i o -
Indi g R d ot t n ; n di p
e o n co o o e .

Thi o — Ind i g R d ot t n ; th e di p o n co o re e s .

Tbi o -
Ind i g R d n ott n ; fi e di p o co o ve s .

Th i o -
Indi g S l t R o tt n ;
ca r e d ip o n co o o ne .

Thi o -
Ind i g S l t R n
o tt ; th
ca r e di p o co o n re e s .

Thi o -
I di g S
n l t R o tt n ; fi
ca r e di p o n co o ve s .

Inda nt h re ne B lu e G CD o n co tto n .

Ind a nt h re ne Y e llo wG o n co tt o n .

Ind a nt h re ne Re d B o n co tt o n .

Ci b a B lu e o n co tto n .

Q UIZ 22 .

667 . by
Wh a t i s me ant t dy ? H w d t hi l in ga l d i ff
va e o o es s c a ss e n e ra er

f m th
ro o l f d y t ff ?
e r c a sse s o es u s

6 6 8 N m t h p i i p l m mb
. a e b l ngi ng t t h g p f t d y
e r nc a e e rs e o o .
e ro u o va es .

Wh t ng f l
a ra n b
e o b t i d with t h dy ?
co o r ca e o a ne e se es

6 6 9 Wh t i t h g n
. a l p i i pls f pply i ng t h
e e t dy
e ra ? Wh t fib r nc e o a e va es a re s

a re m t ly dy d w i t h t h
o s e l ? e se co o r s

67 Wh t
0. th g n a l h a re t i ti f th
e t dy
e t
e ra f t c? arac e r s cs o e va es as o a s ne ss

Wh t i t h h i f d wb k i n t h g n l
a s e c e ?
ra ac e e e ra u se

Wh t i m nt by m p nd ? Why d t h t dy
,

”
67 1 . a l s ea a i e u co co o u o e va es n

g e ne ral q i t b
re i di d ?
u re o e o x ze

67 In d y i g w i t h
2 . t l e n h w h y h d g n lly b i lt p ?
va co o rs , o a re e av s a es e e ra u u

D o est h dy b th w i t h
e t
e- l a lly h t w ll ? va co o r s u su a ex au s e

6 7 3 Wh t i hy d lp h i t i l p p
“ ”
. a ? N m
s m f th ro s u mm e a e so e o e co e rc a re a ra

ti o ns o f t hi bt Wh t i i t h m i l f t i n ?
s su s an ce . a s s c e ca un c o

67 4 H w i . ol ti n f s di m h y d
a so lph i t p p
u od? Gi o th so u ro s u e re are ve e

c h mi l
e ca t i n w hi h t k
re a c pl o I thi l t i n t bl ?
c a es a ce . s s so u o s a e

67 5 Gi . m hi t i l i f m t i n
ve so e ni n g i ndi g
s o r ca Wh t w i t n or a o co n ce r o . a as s

so u r ce i f m n y o r nd w h t i i ter hi f s
e ars , a t th p nt t i m ? a s s c e o u rce a e re se e

6 7 6 H w i i ndi g
. o b t i n d f m t h pl nt ? Wh t i t h l i ng p i n
s o o a e ro e a a s e co o r r

ci pl f i ndi g ? Wh t t h
e o o btn i t in n t
a l i di g ?
o e r su s a ce s e x s a u ra n o

67 7 Wh t i t h h mi l f m l f i ndi g ? Wh t i i di n ; i di g
. a s e c e ca o r u a o o a s n ca n o

67 8 . G ive a n o u t li ne o f t he g e ne ral me t h o d o f p p re ari n g th e i ndi g o vat wi th

y
h dro sul ph i t e .
 2 64 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EMIS TR Y .

67 9 . G i ve t h e g e n e ra l m e t ho d o fd yi g
e n co t to n a nd w o o l i n t he i ndi g t o va .

Wh a t t e m pe ra t u re s a re e m plo ye d a nd h o w i s t h e mat e ri al t re a t e d a ft er
, d y i ng
e

6 8 0 Wh a t o t h e r fo rm s o f va t a re e m plo y e d fo r t h e d y e i ng o f i ndi go ?
. G ive
t he r e d u ci n g g
a e nt s a n d t he k
a l ali e s u se d .

0
68 1 . Wh at ca n y o u sa y reg a rd i n g t h e fas t ne s s o f i nd i g bl
o ue s to g
li h t ,
w a sh i n g ,
a c i d s , a nd bl e a ch i n g?
682 . Wh at i s T hio Indi -
g o Re d ? Ho w i s i t a ppli ed in d y ing ? Wh
e a t a re

i t s d ra wb k ac s as a d y e st u f
f Wh a t i s its g e ne ra l fa st ne s s ?
683 . N a me so me o f t h e i nd a nt h re ne se ri e s o fd y es H w. t h y ppli
o a re e a ed

in d y i g ? Wh
e n a t a mo u n t s o fd y e s t u ff a re n e ce s sa r y t yi ld f ll h d ?
o e u s a es

684 . Ho w do e s t h e fa st ne s s o f Ind ant h re ne Bl ue mp w it h t h t

co a re a o f
i nd i g o ?
685 . Ho w m a y a p i nk f a st to w ashi n g a nd ble a ch i n gb e o bt a i ne d o n co t to n
with i n da nt h re ne d y es ?
6 86 . Wh at a re t he b
ci a d y ? Gi
es ve t he me t ho d o f t he i r a ppli ca t i o n .

Ho w d o e s Ci b a B lu e co mp a re w it h Ind a nt h re ne B lue ?
2 66 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EM IS TR Y .

c e nt s p e r pound .

This m e t hod of t e s t ing t he comparat ive s t r e ng t h or valu e of

dy e s t uffs may b e c arri e d t o a rat h e r high d e gr e e of accuracy b u t ,

i t is n e c e ssary t ha t t h e compara t iv e d y e t e s t s b e mad e und e r

-

e xac t ly t h e sam e condi t ions in e v e ry r e sp e c t and al so t hat t h e ,

e y e b e t rain e d t o ma t ch t h e d e p t h of colors wi t h gr e a t accuracy .

Th e amoun t s of t h e d ye solu t ions should b e accura t e ly m e asur e d

by m e ans of a graduat e d pip e t t e and e xac t ly t h e sam e amoun t s
,

of sulphuric acid and glaub e r s alt should al so b e t ak e n by

m e an s of d e fini t e ly m e asur e d solu t ions ; and fur t h e r t h e t o t al
volum e of e ach d y e bat h should b e t h e sam e To insur e t h e
-

'
.

mos t accura t e r e sul t s i t is b e s t t o carry o u t a s e co nd dy e ing of

,

t h e w e ak e r sampl e using t h e r e quir e d amoun t of i t s solu t i on

,

add e d t o t h e ba t h all at o ne t im e Th is is e sp e ci ally d e sirabl e

.

if t h e s e cond sampl e has b e e n brough t t o a ma t ch by a numb e r

of succ e ssiv e addi t ions of t he color solu t ion For ins t a nc e in .
,

t h e e xampl e quo t e d abov e suppos e t h e s e v e r al addi t ions of t h e

,

“ ”
color solu t ion of B t o hav e b e e n as follows :
F i rs t , 10 cc . F our t h , o .
5 cc .

Se cond , 1 cc . Fift h ,
cc .

Third , o .
5 cc
. Six t h ,
cc .

making in all cc It would b e b e tt e r t o t h e n dye ano t h e r

.

sk e in using 1 2 5 cc as a firs t addi t ion t o t h e d y e b a t h It will

,
. .
-
.

fr e qu e n t ly b e found t hat a Sligh t ly incr e ase d amoun t of t h e d y e

solu t ion will b e r e quir e d t o bring t his s e cond t e s t t o a mat ch .

Th i s is accoun t e d for by t h e fac t t ha t t h e prolong ed dy e ing

n e c e ssi t at e d by t h e num e rous addi t ions t o t h e b at h will caus e an
abnormal abso rp t ion of dy e s t u ff .

If prop e rly carri e d o u t t his m e t hod of an al ysis is capabl e of

,

giving r e sul t s accurat e t o wi t hin a t l e as t t wo p e r ce n t provid e d .

,

t h e sampl e s b e ing t e s t e d are t h e sam e k i nd of dy e s t uff If .

,

how e ve r t h e dye s ar e no t qu i t e of t h e sam e t on e of c Olo r som e

, ,

d i fli c u lt y may b e e xp e ri e nc e d in j u d ging accura t e ly t h e po in t

 TH E TES TIN G O F D YES TUF F S . 26 7

at which t h e sampl e s are mat ch e d and consid e rable skill i n

ma t ching will b e r e quir e d t o arrive at t h e ir prop e r valuat ion .

Th e ma t ching in t his cas e may b e usually r e nd e r e d som e wha t

e asi e r by obs e rving t h e colors t hrough r e d blu e or y e llow glass e s
, ,

which hav e t h e e ffe c t of cu t t ing o u t c e r t ain und e sirabl e t on e s .

Fur t h e rmor e t h e e y e is mor e s e nsi t ive t o di ffe r e nc e s in in t e nsi t y

,

of som e colors t han i n o t h e r s; for i ns t anc e i t is qui t e d ifli c u lt

,

t o d e t e c t small d i ffe r e nc e s in t h e d e p t h of y e llow colors wh e r e as ,

in blu e s or r e ds small d i ffe r e nc e s ar e e as i ly d e t e c t e d V iol e t

, .

colors and r e ddish t on e s of blu e a re also ra t h e r d i ffi cul t t o

accura t e ly mat ch ; and dull and brok e n t one s of any color are
hard e r t o approxima t e t han cl e ar and brigh t ton e s It is no t .

w e ll t o e mploy t o o h e avy shad e s for comparison or t h e accuracy ,

of t h e m e t hod will b e much impair e d .

As som e t im e s o ne dy e s t u ff may e xhaust b e t t e r in t h e firs t

b at h t han ano t h e r corr e sponding d y e or e v e n wi t h t h e sam e
,

dy e s t u ff i t is a t t im e s possibl e t o mix wi t h i t som e ch e mical

,

t o cau se i t t o e xhaus t b e t t e r t han wh e n pur e in t h e prac t ical ,

t e s t i ng of dy e s i t is b e s t t o mak e an e x ha u s t t es t This i s don e b y

.

dilu t ing t h e d y e bat h us e d for t h e firs t dy e ing t o i t s original

-

volum e and wi t hou t t h e fur t h e r add i t ion of dy e s t u ff or r e ag e n t s

, ,

t o d y e a s e cond t e s t sk e in -
Th e in t e nsi t y of t h e dy e ing t hus
.

ob t ain e d w i ll m e asur e t h e d e gr e e of e xhaus t ion of t h e dy e s t u ff in

t h e firs t b at h .

It is no t w e ll t o e mploy t o o h e avy shad e s for comparison ; as a

rule from o n e half t o o n e p e r c e n t dy e ings will b e found qui t e
,
—
.

sat isfac t ory for mos t colors In t h e cas e of black dy e s how e v e r

.
, ,

wh e r e i t is n e c e ssary t o ob t ain a comp arison of t h e t on e of black

produc e d i t will of cours e b e n e c e ssary t o u se mor e t han o ne
, , ,

r c e nt of dy e s t uff
p e . .

In cas e s wh e r e t h e t e s t sk e ins mus t b e mordan t e d or o t h e rwis e

-

t r e a t e d b e for e or aft e r t h e dy e ing car e mus t b e t ak e n t ha t t h e

,

se ve ral sk e ins e mploy e d in t h e t e s t s r e c e iv e e xac t ly t h e sam e

mann e r and d e gr e e of t r e at m e n t In ord e r t o insur e t he
.

prop e r condi t ions i t is b e s t t o mordan t all t h e t e s t —sk e ins

us e d simul t an e ously and t og e t h e r in t he sam e bat h ; and
268 D YEIN G AN D TEX TIL E CH EM IS TR Y .

t hi s s h ould also b e don e wh e r e any aft e r t re at m e n t of t he -

dy e ing is r e quir e d .

M ak e a compara t iv e t e s t of t wo sampl e s of a subst an t iv e

co t t on color ; t wo sampl e s of a b asic color for co t t on mord an t ing ,

wi t h t annin an t imony ; t wo sampl e s of an ali z arin color for wool

-

on a chrom e mord an t ; and t wo sampl e s of an an t hrac e n e color

for wool aft e r mord an t ing wi t h chrom e In all t h e s e cas e s mak e
,
-
.

e xhaus t t e s t s on t h e sam e d y e b a t h -
.

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 4 0 To De t e rm i n e if a Dy e s tu fi i s Sim pl e o r
.

Mi x e d —
A larg e numb e r of t h e dy e s t uffs on t h e mark e t ar e
n o t simpl e or singl e coloring ma t t e rs b u t consis t of t wo or mor e
-
,

dy e s t u ffs mix e d t og e t h e r This mixing of colors is prac t is e d

.

for t h e purpos e of al t e ring t h e t on e of t h e dy e s t u ff ; or for t h e

forming of various colors such as t h e produc t ion of a gr e e n by
,

mixing a blu e and a y e llow d ye It is al so prac t is e d for t he

.

purpose o f adul t e rat ing various dy e s wi t h o t h e rs of ch e ap e r

-

quali t y .

Th e pr e s e nc e of mix t ur e s in a dy e s t uff how e v e r mus t no t , ,

always b e t ak e n as e vid e nc e of sophis t ica t i on In t he manu .

fac t ur e of dy e s t u ffs i t oft e n h app e ns t hat succ e ssiv e lo t s of t h e

sam e coloring matt e r do no t e xhibi t pr e cis e ly t h e sam e t on e
-
,

b u t i t i s v e ry d e sirabl e t o t h e dy e r t ha t t h e dy e s t uff as sold should

always b e of e xac t ly t h e sam e t on e Th e manufac t ur e r t h e r e
.
,

for e adop t s a s t and ard and t on e s t h e various lo t s t o ma t ch

, ,

t his s t and ard by t h e prop e r addi t ion of sui t abl e b u t similar

dy e s Th e r e for e a dy e s t uff may b e a p e rfe c t ly t ru e ar t icl e and

.

y e t show e vid e nc e of mix e d colors T h e amoun

. t of m i x t ur e how ,
~

l
e v e r und e r t h e s e circums t anc e s i s v e ry sma l ; wh e r e as admix t ur e
,

for purpos e s of sophis t ic a t ion i s usually ra t h e r larg e .

A simple t e st of consid e rabl e prac t ical v al u e for d e t e c t ing a

mix t ur e of dy e s i s as follows : M ois t e n a small sh e e t of pap e r
wi t h wa t e r plac e a li t t l e of t h e dy e s t uff on o n e e nd of t h e pap e r
,

and t h e n blow t h e br e a t h across i t so as t o sca t t e r t h e dy e s t u ff

i n fine p ar t icl e s ov e r t h e pap e r A m i xt ur e of dy e s w i ll g e n e rally
.

g i v e a mo t t l e d app e aranc e of s e v e ral colors A mod i fic at i on of .

t his t e s t w h ich at t im e s w i ll y i e ld b e t t e r r e sul t s is t o plac e som e

, ,
270 D YEIN G AN D TEX TIL E CH EMIS TR Y .

nat ur e This classificat ion how e v e r mus t no t b e t ak e n as

.
, ,

absolu t e and rigid as o ne class may m e rg e in t o ano t h e r in almos t

,

an imp e rc e p t ibl e mann e r and t h e r e a re dy e s t u ffs which e xhibi t

,

t h e ch ar ac t e ris t ics of mor e t han o n e ; for ins t anc e t h e r e a re dy e s ,

which may b e dy e d in an acid ba t h and would cons e qu e n t ly ,

b e consid e r e d as acid dy e s b u t which also d y e on m e t all i c mor ,

dan t s and h e nc e woul d also b e includ e d among t h e mordan t

,

colors .

Again b asic ,
e s may also b e dy e d in b at hs mor e or l e ss
s t rongly acid ; and subs t an t ive dy e s may b e dy e d (on wool for ,

ins t anc e ) from n e u t ral acid or al kalin e bat hs or may e ve n b e

, , ,

dy e d on mordan t s So i t may b e s e e n t hat i t is no t such a

.

simpl e mat t e r aft e r all t o quickly d e cid e as t o what class a

, ,

dy e s t u ff is t o b e r e fe rr e d This probl e m can only b e solve d by

.

a s e ri e s of sys t e mat ic t e s t s which should b e carri e d o u t in t h e ,

following mann e r :
A solu t ion of t h e dy e s t u ff should b e mad e of a s t r e ng t h of
abou t 5 grams p e r li t r e using dis t ill e d wa t e r as t h e solve n t
, .

Th e solu t ion is b e s t mad e by firs t bo i ling t h e coloring m at t e r -

wi t h abou t 2 00 cc of t h e wat e r for t e n t o fift e e n minu t e s and

.
,

t h e n dilu t ing t h e solu t ion t o o ne li t r e by t h e addi t ion of cold

wat e r . Th e following d y e t e s t s are t h e n carri e d o u t wi t h t his -

solu t ion
( )
a A t e s t sk e in of -
scour e d wool e n yarn is mordan t e d by boil
ing for o ne half hour in a bat h con t aining 3 p e r c e n t of chrom e
-
.

and 4 p e r c e n t of t ar t ar ; wash e d w e ll and t h e n dy e d in a bat h

.
,

con t aining 1 p e r c e n t of t he dy e s t uff If a sk e in of wool e n yarn

. .

b e com e s dy e d and e sp e ci ally if mos t of t h e color is e x t rac t e d from

,

t h e b at h t h e dy e s t u f
,
f in q u e s t i o h may b e long t o t h e mordan t
dy e ing class t hough t h e c e r t ain t y of t his can only b e asc e r t ain e d
,

by t h e succ e e ding t e st s If how e ve r t h e sk e in in t his t e s t do e s

.
, ,

no t b e com e dy e d which is hardly lik e ly t h e n i t is posi t iv e ly

, ,

known t hat t h e coloring —matt e r und e r e xamina t ion is no t a mor

dan t d ye .

( )
b A s e cond t e s t sk e in of wool e
-
n yarn is dy e d in a ba t h con
t aining 1 0 pe r c e n t o f glau b e rs alt and 4 pe r c e n t of sulphuric
. .
.
 TH E TES TIN G O F D Y ES TUF F S . 27 1

a cid t og e t h e r wi t h 1 p e r c e n t of t he dy e s t uff ; t he mat e ri al is

,
.

boile d for o ne h alf hour t h e n squ e e z e d o u t and wash e d w e ll If

-
,
.

t h e wool r e mains undy e d in t his cas e b u t was dy e d in t e s t (a ) , ,

almos t posi t ive assuranc e i s a fford e d t hat t h e coloring mat t e r in -

qu e s t ion is a mordan t dy e s t uff If how e v e r t h e wool i s dy e d .

, , ,

t he coloring ma t t e r may b e e i t h e r an acid dy e s t u ff b e longing t o

-

t h e aft e r chrom e d vari e t y or i t migh t al so b e a b asic or a sub

-
,

s t a nt i v e dy e This mus t b e d e t e rmin e d by t h e subs e qu e n t t e s t s

. .

If t h e r e sul t of t h e s e t wo t e st s l e ads t o t he indica t ion of a mor

dan t dy e s t u ff t his may b e confirm e d by boiling a fe w cubic
,

c e n t im e t e rs of t h e d y e solu t ion wi t h s e para t e solu t ions of c h ro

mium ac e t a t e and aluminium sulpha t e ; if t h e dy e s t u ff b e longs t o
t h e mordan t class t h e r e will b e a pr e cipi t a t e of a color lak e in
,
-

e ach c as e . If t h e r e is no pr e cipi t at e t his would indica t e t hat any ,

dy e ing ob t ain e d on t h e mordan t e d wool in t e s t (a ) do e s no t pro

c e e d from t h e pr e s e nc e of a mordan t d y e If t h e sk e ins are dy e d .

in bo t h t e s t s (a ) and (b ) and t h e dy e s t u ff solu t ion also cause s t h e

,

pr e cipi t at ion of a color lak e wi t h t h e s al t s of chromium and

-

aluminium t h e n i t may r e asonably b e c o nclud e d t ha t t h e coloring

,

ma t t e r in qu e s t ion is a mordan t dy e s t u ff which also dy e s wool

from an acid b at h If no color lak e how e v e r is form e d wi t h
.
-
, ,

t h e m e t allic sal t s t h e n t h e dy e s t u ff is prob ably an acid color

, .

( )
c A t e s t sk e in -
of wool e n yarn is dy e d in a ba t h con t aining
1 p e r c e n t of t h e dy e s t u ff and 1 0 p e r c e n t of gla u b e r s a lt b e in g
. .
,

boil e d for o ne h al f hour t h e n squ e e z e d and wash e d w e ll If t h e

-
, .

woo l r e mains undy e d in t h i s cas e i t indica t e s a mordan t d y e as , ,

in t h e pr e vious t e s t (t h e r e ar e how e v e r c e r t ain subs t an t iv e dy e s

, ,

which l e av e wool prac t ic al ly undy e d und e r such condi t i ons and ,

conse qu e n t ly b e for e j udging d e fini t e ly t hat t h e dy e s t u ff b e longs

,

t o t h e mord an t class t h e fac t should b e confirm e d as b e for e

, ,

d e scrib e d by t h e pr e cipi t at ion of t h e m e t allic color lak e ) If t h e

,
-
.

sk e in r e mains undy e d in t his t e s t b u t was dy e d in t e s t (b ) t h e , ,

dy e s t u ff is prob ably an aft e r t r e a t e d mordan t d y e If t h e sk e in

-
.

i s dy e d i n t e s t (c) i t may b e e i t h e r an acid subs t an t iv e or b asic

, , ,

d ye . If t h e firs t i t would al so hav e b e e n dy e d in t e s t (b )

,
.

d
( ) A sk e in of co tt on yarn is dy e d in a b a t h con t aining 1 per
272 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EMIS TR Y

c e nt of t h e dy e s t uff and 1 0 p e r c e n t of common sal t ; boil for o ne

. .
-

h alf h our t h e n squ e e z e and wash w e ll in wat e r and t h e n in a

, , ,

di lu t e luk e warm soap b at h If t h e co tt on is no t dy e d t h e d y e .

,

may b e long t o e i t h e r t h e mordan t t h e acid or t h e b a sic class I f , , .

t o t h e firs t i t s na t ur e would hav e alr e ady b e e n indic a t e d by t h e

,

pr e vious t e s t If t o t he s e cond i t would also hav e dy e d t h e wool

.
,

in t e s t (b ) and prob ably in t e s t (c) If t o t h e t hird t h e wool in

, .
,

t e s t (c) and probably also in t e s t (b ) would hav e b e e n dy e d

, ,
If .

t h e co t t on sk e in how e v e r in t his t e s t is w e ll dy e d and r e t ains i t s

, ,

color aft e r soaping i t indicat e s t ha t t h e dy e s t uff und e r e xamina

,

t ion b e longs t o t h e subs t an t iv e class .

( e ) A sk e in of co t t on yarn is work e d in a ba t h con t aining 4 p e r

c e n t of t annic acid for o ne —h alf hour at 1 80 F t h e n squ e e ze d

.
°

and work e d for t e n minu t e s in a cold bat h con t ai ning 2 per c e n t .

of t ar t ar e m e t ic t h e n squ e e z e d and w e ll wash e d This mor

,
.

dan t e d co t t on sk e in is t h e n dy e d in a bat h con t aining 1 p e r c e n t .

of t h e dy e s t u ff for o ne half hour a t 1 60 F aft e r which i t i s

-
°

squ e e z e d and w e ll wash e d If t h e co tt on b e com e s dy e d in t hi s

.

t e s t and t h e d y e b a t h i s rapidly and ra t h e r compl e t e ly e xhaus t e d

,
-
,

t h e dy e s t u ff may b e r e gard e d as a basic d y e in which c as e t h e ,

wool in t e s t (c) would al so b e dy e d t hough wi t h som e basic dy e s ,

only sligh t ly so and t h e co tt on in t e s t (d ) would r e main prac t ically

,

undy e d If t h e co tt on sk e in in t his t e s t r e mains undy e d or i s

.

only sligh t ly dy e d t h e dye may b e e i t h e r an acid or a mordan t

,

color t h e dis t inc t ion b e t w e e n which would hav e alr e ady b e e n

, .

mad e in t h e pr e vious t e s t s .

Expe ri m e n t 1 4 2 Ch e m i c al Me t h o d o f Di s ti ngu i s hi n g b e t w e e n
.

Aci d an d B asi c Dy e st uffs Th e s e t wo class e s of dy e s may b e

.

rat h e r e asily dis t inguish e d by c e r t ain ch e mical t e s t s as follows :

( )
1 B asic dy e s a r e n o t r e mov e d from an acidula t e d aqu e ous
solu t ion by agi t a t ion wi t h e t h e r wh e r e as acid dy e s ar e t ak e n up ,

by t h e lat t e r Carry o u t t h e t e s t as follows : Tak e a small quan t i t y

.

of Ac i d Viol e t (a por t ion t h e si z e of a grain of wh e at i s suffi ci e n t ) ,

and d i ssolve i n abou t 5 cc of d i lu t e sulphuric ac i d ; t h e n add .

5 cc .of e t h e r and s h ak e w e ll Af t e r s e t t l i ng. no t ic e t ha t t h e ,

lay e r of e t h e r has t ak e n up t h e coloring mat t e r show i ng t h e -

,
274 D YEIN G AN D TEX TIL E CH EMIS TR Y .

manufac t ur e of dy e s t u ffs i t is d e sirabl e t o pr e par e produc t s

,

of uniform s t r e ng t h and as t h e diffe r e n t lo t s of manufac t ur e d

,

d y e s e ldom show e xac t ly t h e sam e s t r e ng t h a d e fini t e s t andard ,

mus t b e adop t e d t o which w e ak e r lo t s ar e brough t up by t h e

addi t ion of a s t rong e r d y e whil e t o o s t rong a lo t of dy e s t uff i s
dilu t e d t o t h e s t and ard by t h e addi t ion of sui t abl e n e u t ral sal t s .

Th e occurr e nc e of a larg e propor t ion of t h e above m e n t ion e d -

sal t s in t h e dy e s t u ff mus t how e v e r b e t ak e n as indica t ing

, ,

in t e n t ional adul t e ra t ion For b asic dy e s so dium chlorid e and

.

d e x t rin are chi e fly us e d ; for t he acid dy e s sodium sulphat e i s

e mploy e d and for t h e subs t an t iv e dy e s e i t h e r sodium chlorid e
,

or sulphat e may b e use d De x t rin in som e cas e s is add e d

.

t o incr e as e t h e solubili t y of t h e dy e s t uff .

A
( ) D et ect i o n o f S o di u m C hl o r i de As silv e r ni t ra t e forms
.

an insolubl e whi t e pr e cipi t a t e of silv e r chlorid e wh e n add e d

t o a solu t ion of common s al t t his r e ag e n t is us e d for t h e t e s t
-
,
.

In many case s t h e t e s t may b e carri e d o u t by simply dissolving

a small quan t i t y of t h e dy e s t u ff in wa t e r adding a fe w drops ,

of ni t ric acid (t o pr e v e n t t he pr e cipi t at ion of any o t h e r sal t of

s i lve r b e sid e s t h e chlorid e ) and t h e n a fe w drops of a solu t ion
,

of silv e r ni t rat e wh e n t he produc t ion of a whi t e pr e cipi t at e wi ll

,

indic at e t h e pr e s e nc e of a chlorid e This m e t hod how e v e r.

, ,

15 no t always r e liabl e as many dy e s t u ffs are hydroc h lorid e s

,

of color b as e s (basic dy e s ) or give insolubl e s al t s of silv e r in

-
, ,

which case s t h e format ion of a whi t e pr e cipi t at e would no t

n e c e ssarily indicat e t h e pr e s e nc e of common sal t It is b e s t t o -
.

igni t e a por t ion of t h e dy e s t uff in a porc e lain crucibl e so as t o ,

burn o ff all volat il e and organic mat t e r l e aving only min e ral ,

matt e r in t h e ash Dissolv e t h e ash in wa t e r add a fe w drops

.
,

of ni t ric acid and t h e n t h e silve r ni t rat e ; a whi t e pr e cipi t at e

of silv e r chlorid e will b e form e d if common sal t is pr e s e n t A -
.

fe w dy e s such as t h e e osins l e av e chlorid e s (or bromid e s or

, ,

iodide s ) in t h e ash aft e r igni t ion ; h e nc e t his t e s t would no t b e

sat isfac t ory For such dy e s t he aq u e o u a s o lu t i o n of t h e coloring
.
,

mat t e r should b e acidulat e d wi t h dilu t e sulphuric acid t h e n ‘

shak e n up wi t h e t h e r Th e dy e st u ff will b e dissolv e d o u t by t h e

.
 TH E TES TIN G O F D YES TUF F S . 27 5

e t he r, l e aving any common sal t which may b e pr e s e n t in t h e

-

aqu e ous lay e r Th e la t t e r may b e r e mov e d and t e s t e d wi t h

.

silve r ni t ra t e as d e scrib e d above If t h e dy e s t u ff is solubl e in .

alcohol t h e coloring mat t e r may firs t b e e xt rac t e d by warming

,
-

wi t h t his solv e n t and t h e t e st for common sal t may t h e n b e

,
-

mad e wi t h t h e r e s i du e .

( )
1 T e s t i n g f o r S a lt i n A c i d Y e llo w D issolv e a sma l l .

por t ion of t h e pur e dy e s t u ff in wat e r add a coupl e of drops ,

of dilu t e ni t ric acid and a fe w drops of silv e r ni t ric solu t ion ; no

r e cipi t a t e will b e produc e d R e p e a t t h e t e s t using a sampl e
p .
,

of t h e dy e s t u ff con t aining common sal t and no t ic e t h e forma t ion -

,

of a whi t e pr e cipi t a t e of silv e r chlorid e (which will b e mor e or

l e ss color e d b y t h e dy e s t u ff ) .

( )
2 T e s t i n gfo r S a lt i n M a ge nt a D issolv e a small quan
. t i t y I

of t h e pur e d ye in wa t e r and t e s t wi t h silv e r ni t ra t e as

,

abov e As t h e d y e i t s e lf i s t h e hydrochlorid e of t he color b as e

.
‘

-
,

a pr e cipi t a t e of s ilv e r chlorid e will b e form e d t hough no common ,

sal t is pr e s e n t Plac e a small quan t i t y of t h e dy e s t u ff in a p o rce

.

lain crucibl e and igni t e un t il all organic ma tt e r is compl e t e ly

,

burn e d away ; dissolv e t h e ash in a small quan t i t y of wa t e r

acidulat e d wi t h a fe w drops of ni t ric acid and t e s t wi t h silv e r ,

ni t ra t e ; no pr e cipi t a t e wi ll b e produc e d R e p e at t his t e s t using .

,

a sampl e of M ag e n t a con t aining common s al t and no t e t h e -

format ion of a pr e cipi t at e of silv e r chlorid e .

(3 ) T e s t i ng f o r S a l t i n E o s i n Plac e a small quan

. t i t y
of pur e Eosin in a porc e lain crucibl e and igni t e as abov e
d e scrib e d ; on d i ssolving t h e ash in wat e r and t e s t ing w i t h
silv e r ni t ra t e in t h e usual mann e r a pr e cipi t at e will b e form e d ,

t hough no common sal t is pr e s e n t -

Ne x t t ak e a small quan t i t y
.

of t h e E osin dissolv e in IO cc of wat e r in a t e st t ub e (or b e t t e r

,
.
-
,

a s t opp e r e d s e p ara t ory funn e l ) add 5 cc of e t h e r (b e s ur e t h e

,
.

solu t ion i s co ld b e for e adding t h e e t h e r ) shak e w e ll and allow ,

t o s t and . Th e e t h e r e al lay e r con t aining t h e dy e s t u ff in solu t ion

,

wi ll coll e c t on t o p whil e t h e aqu e ous lay e r will r e main a t t h e

,

bo tt om If t he color i s no t w e ll e xt rac t e d from t h e bo tt om

.

lay e r pour o ff t he e t h e r e al lay e r and r e p e a t t he e x t rac t ion wi t h

27 6 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EM IS TR Y .

fr e sh e t h e r Wi t hdraw t h e aqu e ous lay e r by m e ans of a pip e t t e

.
,

and t e s t i t wi t h silv e r ni t rat e as usual ; no pr e cipi t at e will b e

produc e d R e p e at t his t e s t using a sample of Eosin con t aining
.
,

common sal t and no t ic e t h at a pr e cipi t at e of silv e r chlorid e will

-
,

b e form e d .

( )
4 T e s t i n g f o r S a lt i n O ra ng e II P lac e .a small sampl e of
t h e pur e d y e in a t e s t t ub e and dissolv e in IO cc of warm alco
-
.

hol ; i t should b e compl e t e ly solubl e R e p e at t his t e s t using a.

,

sample of t h e d ye con t aining common s al t ; no t ic e t hat a r e sidu e -

is l e ft Dissolv e t his in wat e r and t e s t wi t h silv e r ni t ra t e as

.

usual ; a pr e cipi t at e of silv e r chlorid e will b e produc e d .

( )
B D e t e ct i o n of S o d i u m S u lp ha t e —
Sulpha t e s in
. g e n e ral
a r e d e t e c t e d by t h e addi t ion of b arium chlorid e t o t h e ir solu t i o n ,

wh e r e by an insolubl e whi t e pr e cipi t at e of b arium sulphat e is

form e d . Th e pr e s e nc e of sulphat e s in t h e ash of a dy e s t uff
do e s no t n e c e ssarily indic at e adul t e ra t ion wi t h gla ub e r s al t as ,

many dy e s ar e t h e ms e lve s sulphonat e d compounds and on igni ,

t ion l e av e sodium sulpha t e in t h e ash Th e b e s t proc e dur e.

for t e s t ing fo r glaub e r salt in a dy e s t uff is as fo llows : Dissolv e

‘

som e pur e B e n z opurpurin in a small amoun t of wat e r add a fe w ,

drops of dilu t e hydrochlor i c acid (t o pr e v e n t o t h e r compounds

of b arium b e ing pr e cipi t at e d ) t h e n a solu t ion of barium chlorid e
,

as long as a pre c ip i t a t e forms Th is pr e cipi t at e wh i ch consis t s

.
,

of b arium sulphonat e is filt e r e d o ff wash e d and boil e d wi t h

, , ,

a solu t ion of ammonium carbonat e This conv e r t s i t in t o .

b arium c arbonat e ; fil t e r aga i n and wash t he r e sidu e of b arium

,

carbonat e and t h e n add dilu t e hydrochloric acid t o t h e la t t e r

, ,

wh e n i t should b e compl e t e ly dissolve d R e p e a t t h e t e s t using .

,

a sampl e of B e n zopurpurin con t ain i ng glau b e rs alt Th e pre c i p .

i t at e ob t ain e d wi t h b arium chlorid e in t his cas e consis t s of a, ,

mixt ure of barium sulphonat e and barium sulphat e O n boiling .

t his wi t h ammonium carbonat e only t h e sulphona t e is conv e r t e d

,

in t o barium carbonat e and on finally dissolving in hydrochloric

,

acid t he barium sulphat e will b e l e ft as an insolubl e r e sidu e

, ,

t hus S howing t h e pr e s e nc e of gla u b e rs a lt in t h e original d y e .

Ano t h e r m e t hod for t e s t ing for sulphat e s is t o pr e cipi t at e t h e

278 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EM IS TR Y .

E
( ) D e t e ct i o n o f De x t r i n .
—
This
impuri t y can usually b e
r e cogn i z e d by t he p e culiar odor d e x t rin g i ve s on dissolv i ng t h e
d y e i n warm wa t e r It may b e s t b e t e s t e d for as follows : Tak e a
.

small sampl e of M e t hyl Viol e t con t ai ning d e x t rin ; e x t rac t t h e

coloring mat t e r wi t h absolu t e al cohol ; t h e d e x t rin will b e l e ft as
-

a r e sidu e Dissolv e t h e lat t e r in a small quan t i t y of warm wat e r

.
.
,

and no t ic e t h e p e culi ar odor of t he dissolving d e x t rin De x t rin .

is fr e qu e n t ly add e d t o pas t e dy e s and t o basic dy e s .

( )
F D e t e ct i o n o f S t a r c h — T his impuri . t y may b e s e para t e d
from t he dy e s t u ff by t r e at ing wi t h cold wa t e r in wh i ch t h e s t arch ,

is insolubl e It may t h e n b e r e cogni z e d as follows : Tak e a

.

sampl e of Eosin con t aining s t arch ; e x t rac t t h e color i ng mat t e r -

wi t h cold wat e r ; dissolv e t h e r e sidu e of s t arch in a li t t l e boiling

wat e r and add a fe w drops of a solu t ion of iodin e in po t assium
,

iodid e .A d e e p blu e color will b e produc e d indica t ing t he ,

pr e s e nc e of s t arch .

( )
G D e t e ct i o n o f S u g ar This impuri . t y is fr e qu e n t ly add e d
t o crys t allin e dy e s as i t occurs in t h e crys t allin e form i t s e lf
,
It s . .

pr e s e nc e may b e shown as follows : T ak e a sampl e of M ag e n t a

con t aining sugar ; e x t rac t wi t h absolu t e alcohol Th e dy e s t u ff .

pass e s in t o solu t ion wh e r e as t h e sugar r e mai ns prac t ically insol

,

ubl e and b e com e s n e arly colorl e ss He at t he r e sidu e in a t e s t

,
.

t ub e and no t ic e t h e odor of caram e l ind i c a t ing t h e pr e s e nc e of,

sugar .

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 44 De t e rm i n a ti on o f t h e Capi ll ary Spe e d o f

.

Dy e s tu fi s B y t h e capillary sp e e d of a dy e s t u ff i s m e an t t h e
.

'

h e igh t t o which i t s solu t ion will ris e in a giv e n t im e t hrough

porous pap e r (fil t e r or blo t t ing pap e r ) This f ac t or is only a .

r e lat iv e numb e r a nd is usually compar e d wi t h pur e wa t e r as a

,

s t andard .

Tak e fiv e s t rips of blo t t ing pap e r m e as u rmg 5 1 nc h e s in l e ng t h

and o ne h alf inch in wid t h ; mak e a mark on e ach s t rip 1 inch
-

from t h e e nd Imm e rs e o ne of t h e s e s t rips in a sm al l b e ak e r

.

con t aining pur e wat e r so t hat t h e s urfac e of t h e wat e r com e s

e xac t ly t o t h e 1 inch mark on t h e pap e r
-
Sus t ain t h e s t rip in a
.

p e rp e ndic ular posi t ion and allow i t t o r e mai n in t he wat e r for

,
 TH E TES TIN G O F D Y ES T UF F S . 279

jus t o ne minu t e Th e n m e asur e t h e h e igh t t o which t h e wat e r

.

has ris e n on t h e pap e r R e p e at t h e t e s t wi t h a fr e sh s t rip of pap e r

.
,

using a o ne p e r c e n t solu t ion of mag e n t a and aft e r o ne minu t e

.
,

m e asur e t h e h e igh t t o which t h e co lo r has asc e nd e d R e p e at t h e .

t e s t fur t h e r on o ne p e r c e n t solu t ions of N ap h t h o l Y e llow Acid .

,

Viol e t and M alachi t e G r e e n Tabulat e t h e r e sul t s ob t ain e d as

,
.

follows

So lu t i o n . Di s t a nc e co lo r rise s .
Co m p a re d w i t h wa t e r
as 1 00 .

N a p h t h o l Y e llo S w
Aci d V i o le t
M a la c h i t e G re e n

Q U IZ 23 .

6 87 . De s cri be t h e me t h o d o f d e t e rm i ni n g th e co m p a ra t i ve m o ne y v a lu e o f
a d y e st uff .

6 88 . Su pp o se d y e s t uff
“
A re q ui re d 1 6 cc .
,
B 1 0 cc .
,
a nd
“
C 1 2 cc . o f
p
t h e i r re s e ct i ve so lu ti o ns t o gi ve t he sa m e de t h p o f sh a d e o n t e st i n ; g wh t a

w o uld b e t he v a lue s o f “
B
”
and
“
C
”
if
“
A ”
is q uo t e d a t 3 6 c e nt s pe r p nd ? o u

6 89 . If se v e ra l su cce s s i v e a d di t i o n s to t he d ye -
b ath h a ve b ee n ma de t o
se cu re a m a t c h , wh y i s i t e s t t o b re p e at t he d y i nge u si n g th e re q u i r e d a m o u nt o f
y g
d e s t uff i n a si n le a dd i t i o n ?
69 0 . Wha t i s m e a nt by t h e
“
e xh a u s t t e st in v a lui n g dy e s , a nd wh at i s i ts
p p u r o se ?
69 1 . Wha t i s t he p p ur o se o f m ixi n g d i ffe re nt d y es to g e the r b e fo re sa le ?
Do e s e vi de nce o f a d m i xt u re al wy a s i ndi cat e a d u lt e ra t i o n ?
69 2 . De scri b e t h e t e st s gi ve n fo r t h e d e t e ct i o n o f m i xe d d y es .

69 3 . What t est s w o ul d yo u ma k e to i de nt if y a b a si c d ye ; a n a ci d d ye ; a

su b st ant i v e dye ; a m o rd a n t ?
69 4 . Wh a t a re t he p i ip
r nc a l su b st a n ce s u se d fo r t h e a d u lt e ra t i o n o f d ye
fs ?
st uf Do e s the p re se n ce o f co mmo n -
salt in a d y e st uff al wy a s i ndi ca t e
i nt e n t i o nal a d ult e ra ti o n Why ?
69 5 . Wh at i s t he g e ne ra l t e st fo r t h e d e t e ct i o n o f so di um ch lo ri d e ? Is t hi s
a ppli bl ca e to a ll d y e s t uf
fs ?
69 6 . Ho w w o uld yo u t e st fo r t he p re se nce o f co mmo n-salt i n Aci d Y e llo w
and si mila r dy t e s uffs ?
2 80 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EMIS TR Y .

69 7 . Ho w w o uld yo u t e st fo r t he p re se nce o f co mmo n -

sa lt in Mage nt a a nd

s u ch d y es t hat co nsi st o y
f h d ro chlo ri de s ?
69 8 . Gi v e t h e me t ho d fo r t h e t e st i n g o f co mmo n -
sa lt i n t he eo si n g ro u p o f
d yes .

69 9 . In ca se a d y e st uf
f is so lu bl e in a lco ho l, h o w m ay t h e p re se nce o f co m
m o n-s alt b e sh o wn ?
7 00 . What i s the g e ne ra l m e t ho d fo r t he d e t e ct io n o f su l ph ate s ? Wh at
o t h e r sul h a t ep
g la u b e rb
sal t m
e si de s
a y b e p re se nt in d y es ?
701 Why sho uld no t th e di re ct t e st fo
. r sul ph ate s b e ma d e wi th dy e st uf
fs ?
Wha t i s me a nt a sul h o na t e ? by p
7 02 . De scr i b th
e e m e t ho d o f t e st i n gf g l
o r
a u b e rsa lt i n a d y e s t uff .

7 03 . Ho w m ay gla ub e rsa lt b e d e t e cte d i n a d e st uff y by t he

“
sa lt i n g o ut
-

p ro ce s s ? In ca se t h e d ye st ufi i s so b
lu le i n alco ho l wh t p a ro ce ss m ay b e u se d ?
7 04 . Ho w m ay t he p re se n ce o f s o da a sh b e d e t e ct e d i n a d y f
e st uf Wh a t
cla sse s o fd y e s a re s u bj e ct t o t hi s a d u lt e ra t i o n ?

7 05 . Wh at is E p so m sa lt s ? Ho w m ay i t s p re se n ce b e sho wn i n a d y e s t uf
f
7 06 . Dex t ri n i s u se d as a n a du lt e rant w i t h what classe s o fd y es ? Ho w
m ay i t s p re se nce b e d e t e ct e d ?
7 07 . Ho w IS t he p re se n ce o f st a rc
h In a dye st ufi de t e ct ed ?
7 08 . Wh a t cla sse s o fd y e s a re a d ult e ra t e d with g r ? su a Ho w i s t h i s s ub

st ance de t e ct e d ?
2 82 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EMIS TR Y .

blad e ) of t h e dy e s t u ff is add e d t o abou t 5 cc of pure conc e n t rat e d .

sulphuric acid in a t e s t t ub e ; shak e w e ll and no t e t h e color of

-

t h e solu t ion ob t ain e d Auramin e dissolv e s wi t h e ffe rves ce n ce

.

( d u e t o e volu t ion of hydrochloric acid gas ) and giv e s a co lo rl e s s

,

s o lu ti on .
( )
b O n D i lu t i o n wi t h W a t e r Add a drop or t
. w o of t h e

s t rong ac i d solu t ion as ob t ain e d abov e t o abou t 1 0 cc of wat e r in .

a t e s t t ub e and no t e t h e r e ac t i on which occurs Auramin e on

-
,
.

dilu t ion giv e s a y e llow co lor (c) O n H ea ti ng . Th e r e maind e r .

of t h e s t rong acid solu t i on is gradually h e at e d t o t h e boiling

poin t . Auramin e furnish e s a pal e b rown i s h y e llo w solu t ion .

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 4 7 R e a c t i o n wi t h Hy d ro ch lo ri c Aci d
. Us e an .

aqu e ous solu t ion of t he dy e s t u ff con t ai ning 1 gram of d ye p e r li t r e .

To 5 cc of t his solu t i on add 5 cc of a solu t ion of hy drochlor i c

. .

"

a cid (con t aining 1 00 cc of t h e s t rong ac i d pe r li t r e ) ; allow to

.

s t and for 1 0 minu t e s and no t e what r e ac t ion if any occurs

, , ,
.

Auramin e r e mains unch an ge d No w h e at t h e solu t ion t o boili ng

.

a nd no t e any chang e t ha t occurs ; Auramin e b e com e s d e co lori z e d .

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 4 8 R e a ct i o n wi t h Ni tri c Aci d
. To 5 cc of t h e . .

a qu e ous solu t ion of t h e dy e s t u ff add 5 cc of a solu t ion of ni t ric .

ac i d (con t aining 50 cc of t h e s t rong acid p e r li t r e ) an d carry

.
,

o u t t h e t e s t as abov e Auramin e r e mains u nch an g e d cold ; on

.

bo i ling i t giv e s a pal e y e llo w s ol u ti o n .

Ex pe rim e n t 1 4 9 R e a c ti on wi t h So di um Hy d ra t e
.
Carry o u t .

t h e t e s t as abov e d e scrib e d using 5 cc of a solu t ion of sodiu m

,
.

h ydrat e (con t aining 1 0 0 cc of sodium hydra t e of s p gr .

to . .

o n e li t r e ) .If a pr e cipi t at e is form e d add abou t 2 cc of e t h e r , .

,

a nd shak e ; obs e rv e if t h e e t h e r e x t rac t s t h e pr e cipi t a t e d color

from t h e caus t ic soda ; t h e n add a drop or t wo of ac e t ic acid t o

t h e e t h e r e al lay e r and no t e any chang e Auramin e giv e s a
"

.
,

wh i t e pr e ci pi t at e e x t rac t e d wi t h e t h e r b e co m in g y e llo wi s h on
, ,

a ddi t i on of ac e t ic a cid .

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 5 0 R e a c ti on wi t h Am m o ni a
. R e p e at t h e t e s t .

as abov e give n using 5 cc of comm e rcial ammonia wat e r Aura

,
. .

min e und e rgo e s t h e same r e ac t ions as wi t h sodium hydra t e .

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 5 1 R e a cti on wi t h So di u m Car b o n a t e
. R e p e at .

t h e t e s t as giv e n abov e using 5 cc of a solu t ion of sodium car

,
.
 CH EMICAL REAC TIO N S OF D YES TUF F S .
3

bonat e ( 1 0 0 grams p e r li t r e ) If a pr e cipi t at e i s form e d wi t h t h e

.

cold solu t ion h e at t o boiling and obs e rve if t his caus e s t h e pre
,
~

c i p i t a t e t o r e dissolv e Auramin e give s a m i lk y y e llo w pr e ci pi t a t e

.

which r e mains i n sol u b l e on h e a ti n g .

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 5 2 R e a cti on w i t h Tan ni n R e a ge n t
. C arry o u t .

t h e t e s t using 5 cc of a solu t ion con t aining 1 0 0 grams of t annic

,
.

acid dissolv e d in 5 0 0 cc of wa t e r and mix e d wi t h a solu t ion o f

.

1 0 0 grams of sodium ac e t a t e in
5 00 cc of wa t e r If a pr e cipi
. t a t e .

is form e d h e at t o boiling and no t e any ch ang e in i t s charac t e r .

Auramin e giv e s a y e ll o w pr e ci pi t a t e which on boiling b e com e s ,

b rown r es i n ou s and pa r ti ally s ol u b l e

, , This r e age n t is us e ful for
.

dis t inguishing b e t w e e n acid and b asic dy e s as t h e lat t e r alon e ,

giv e a pr e cip i t at e .

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 5 3 R e a c t i o n wi t h Alu m
. Add t o t h e aqu e ous .

solu t ion of t h e dy e s t u ff 5 cc of a solu t ion of alum (con t aining 50

.

grams p e r li t r e ) If a pr e cipi t a t e is form e d h e at t o boiling and

.
,
‘

no t e any chang e t hat may occur Auramin e r e mains u n ch ang e d .

wi t h t h e alum solu t ion M any of t h e acid d ye s and n e arly all

.

of t h e mordan t dy e s giv e charac t e ris t ic pr e cipi t a t e s wi t h alum .

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 5 4 R e a cti o n wi t h Po t a ssi um B i c h r o ma t e
. .

Add t o t he aqu e ous solu t ion of t h e dy e s t u ff 5 cc of a solu t ion .

con t aining 5 0 grams of po t assium bichromat e p e r li t r e If a .

pr e cipi t a t e i s form e d h e at t o boiling and no t e any chang e t hat

, ,
?

may occur Auramin e giv e a y e llo w pr e ci pi t a t e which on

.
,

h e at ing b e co m e s r e si n o u s and for t h e mos t par t di sso lv e s Th e .

majori t y of t h e basic dy e s ar e pr e cipi t at e d by t his r e ag e n t as i s ,

also t h e cas e wi t h mos t of t h e mordan t dy e s ; only a fe w of t h e

acid dy e s are thus pr e cipi t at e d .

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 5 5 R e a c ti on w i t h Fe rri c Ch lo ri de
. Add t o t he .

aqu e ous solu t ion of t h e dy e s t u ff 5 cc of a solu t ion con t aining .

1 00 grams of f e rric chlorid e p e r li t r e ; no t e t h e r e ac t ion and t h e n

h e at t o boil i ng and obs e rv e any fur t h e r chang e Auramin e .

r e mains u n c h an ge d in t he cold so lu t ion ; on h e at ing t he solu t ion

b e com e s t u rb i d and of a b ro wn i s h y e llo w co lo r .

Ex pe ri m e nt 1 5 6 R e a ct i o n wi t h St anno u s Ch lo ri de
. Add t o .

t h e aqu e ous solu t ion of t h e dy e s t u ff 5 cc of a solu t ion con t aining .

2 84 D YEIN G AN D TEX TIL E CH EMIS TR Y .

1 00 grams of s t annous chlorid e p e r li t r e (wi t h -su f

f i ci e n t hydro
c h loric acid t o yi e ld a cl e ar solu t ion ) Aft e r s t anding 1 0 minu t e s
.
,

h e at t o bo i ling and no t e t h e r e ac t ions which occur Auramin e

,
.

r e mains un ch ang e d A larg e numb e r of dy e s t uffs e i t h e r giv e

.

charac t e ris t ic pr e cipi t at e s or b e com e d e colori z e d

,
.

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 5 7 R e a c ti o n wi t h B l e a c h i n g Po w d e r
. Add t o .

t h e aqu e ous solu t ion of t h e dy e s t u ff 5 cc of a solu t ion of bl e aching .

powd e r of Tw s t r e ng t h
. Aft e r s t anding for 1 0 minu t e s
.
,

h e at t o boiling and no t e any change s which occur Auram i n e

,
.

giv e s a di r ty pale y e llo w pr e ci pi ta t e which on h e at ing t urns t o a

, ,

di r t y r e d co lo r .

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 5 8 R e a c ti o n w i t h Z i n c Du s t
. Add t o t he.

aqu e ous solu t ion of t h e dy e s t u ff abou t 1 gram of z inc dus t and

5 cc. of ammonia wa t e r ; shak e w e ll and t h e n h e at t o boiling ;

filt e r a t onc e and no t e if t h e fil t ra t e if d e color i z e d b e com e s color e d

,

agai n on e xposur e t o t h e air Auramin e giv e s a co lo rl e s s fil t ra t e

.
,

and t h e color do e s no t r e appe a r on e xposur e t o t h e air ; b u t t he

pr e c i pi t a t e l e ft on t h e fil t e r gradually b e com e s y e llowish on
s t anding Th e solu t ions of n e arly all dy e s are d e colori ze d by
.

t his r e ag e n t and many dy e s giv e a ch arac t e ris t ic r e app e aranc e

,

of color on e xposur e t o t h e air Th e loss of color i s cause d by

.

t h e r e duc t ion of t h e coloring ma t t e r which may b e conv e r t e d

-
,

e i t h e r in t o a l e uco (colorl e ss ) d e riva t iv e (which allows of t h e

orig i n al dy e s t u ff b e ing again form e d on oxidat ion in t he air ) or ,

b e e n t ir e ly d e s t roy e d In t h e lat t e r c ase no r e app e aranc e of

.

color will b e shown on ox i dat ion .

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 5 9 R e a c ti on w i t h Z i n c Du s t an d Ace ti c A ci d
. .

R e p e at t h e abov e t e s t as give n using how e v e r 5 cc of ac e t i c

, , ,
.

acid in plac e of t h e ammonia Auramin e b e com e s blu e on .

acid r e duc t ion M any dy e s t u ffs giv e charac t e r i s t ic colors wi t h

.

t his t e s t , whil e som e ar e d e colori z e d compl e t e ly In many .

case s t h e original colors r e app e ar on e xposur e .

Te s t t h e following dy e s t u ffs in t h e sam e mann e r as ou t lin e d

for Auramin e :
M ag e n t a B e n z opurpurin N aph t hol Y e llow S
Acid Viol e t 4 R Alkali B lu e Ali z arin B rown SO
 SE CTI O N XX V .

MISCELLANEO U S TES T S IN DYEIN G .

Expe ri m e nt 1 60 . Th e Am o u n t o f Dy es tu fi Ne ce s s a ry fo r a

Fu ll Sh a de .
—
This fac t or may b e d e t e rmin e d by dy e ing t e s t
sk e ins wi t h incr e asing amoun t s of dy e s t u ff un t il no fur t h e r
incr e as e in shad e is obs e rv e d Proc e e d as follows : Use six .

t e s t sk e ins of wool e n yarn (No 1 t o No 6 ) of t h e sam e w e igh t

-
. .
,

d y e t h e m r e sp e c t iv e ly wi t h t h e following amoun t s of Acid Viol e t ,

e mploying t h e usu al acid b a t h and m e t hod of dy e ing

No . 1 ,
wi t h 1 p e ce nt
r . of dy e s t u ff
No . 2, wi t h 2 p er c e n t . of dy e s t u ff
No .
3, wi t h 3 p e r c e n t . of dy e s t uff
No .
4, wi t h 4 p e r c e nt . of dy e s t uff
No .
5, wi t h 5p e r c e n t . of dy e s t u ff
No . 6, wi t h 6 pe r c e n t . of dy e s t uff

Aft e r dy e ing t he sampl e s are compar e d and no t e is t ak e n at ,

which poin t t h e S had e c e ase s t o show a p e rc e p t ible incre as e .

Th e sam e m e t hod may b e e mploy e d in o t h e r class e s of dye s ,

using t h e ir r e sp e c t iv e m e t hods of dy e ing .

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 6 1 To De t e rm i n e t h e De gr ee o f Exh a u s ti o n
.

o f t h e Dy e b a th —
- . B y t h e ex ha u s ti o n of t h e dy e ba t h is m e an t -

t h e r e la t ive quan t i t y of color absorb e d by t h e fibr e during

t h e dy e ing proc e ss Proc e e d as follows : Dy e a t e s t sk e in (44 2 )
.
-

of wool e n yarn wi t h 3 p e r c e n t of Acid Viol e t 4 pe r c e n t of sul

.
,
.

p h u r i c acid 2 0
, p e r c e n t of gla u b e r salt making t h e d y e bat h up
.
,
-

t o e xac t ly 3 00 cc and t aking o u t 2 5 cc of t h e solu t ion b e for e

. .
.

dy e ing t o pr e s e rv e for comparison in a t e s t t ub e Carry o u t t h e -

.

dy e ing op e rat ion in t h e usual mann er ; squ e eze t h e e xc e ss of

liquor from t h e sk e in back in t o t h e d ye bat h so as no t t o los e any -

286
 ‘

MIS CELLAN EO US TES TS IN D YEIN G .

287

of t he solu t ion . M ak e up t h e ba t h again t o e xac t ly 2 7 5 cc ; .

fill a graduat e d calorim e t ric t ub e wi t h t his solu t ion ; t ak e 1 cc .

of t h e original d ye b at h in ano t h e r similar calorim e t ric t ub e

-
,

and dilu t e t h e lat t e r wi t h wat e r un t il i t e xhibi t s t h e sam e in t o u

s i t y of color as t h e firs t t ub e . Th e d e gr e e of dilu t ion r e quir e d
m e asur e s t h e d e gr e e of e xhaus t ion of t h e d ye b at h Fo r e xampl e :
-
.

1 cc . of t he orig i nal solu t ion r e quir e d t o b e dilu t e d t o cc .

t o S how t h e sam e in t e nsi t y of color as t h e e xhaus t e d ba t h ; h e nc e

t h e r e la t iv e amoun t of d y e l e ft in t h e ba t h is 1
and t h e amoun t absorb e d mus t hav e b e e n or 88 p e r c e n t .

Th e r e for e t h e d e gr ee of e xhaus t ion in t his c as e would b e 88 p e r

c e nt.

Pour t h e liquor t ake n from t h e e xhaus t e d bat h b ack in t o t h e dy e

ba t h and wi t hou t fur t h e r addi t ion of dy e s t u ff or ch e micals d y e
, ,

ano t h e r t e s t sk e in of wool e n yarn Aft e r dy e ing a por t ion (44 3 )

-
.

compar e i t wi t h t h e firs t sk e in Th e di ff e r e nc e in in t e nsi t y o f

.

t he t w o dy e ings will r e pr e s e n t in a rough mann e r t h e d e gr e e of

e xhaus t ion . No w con t inu e t h e dy e ing o f t h e s e cond sk e in (4 44 )

r

by adding t o t h e b at h su ffici e n t dy e s t u ff t o bring t h e S had e up

t o t ha t of t h e firs t sk e in .B e sid e s t h e dy e s t u ff al so add 2 p e r c e n t .

mor e of sulphuric acid as som e of t h e acid origin al ly add e d will

,

hav e b e e n r e mov e d by t h e firs t dy e ing No t e t h e amoun t of .

dye s t u ff add e d and t his w i ll r e pr e s e n t t h e amoun t originally

,

ab sorb e d from t h e firs t b at h For e xampl e : i t r e quir e d t h e

.

fur t h e r addi t ion of 2 5 p e r c e n t of Acid Viol e t t o ma t ch t h e s e cond

. .

dy e in g t o t h e firs t ; h e nc e t h e d e gr e e of e xh a u s t i o n wo uld b e
,
'

2 5 X r c e nt which is a ra t h r clos i
.
3 1 00 p e .
, e e a pp r o x

mat ion t o t he r e sul t ob t ain e d by t h e firs t m e t hod Th e firs t

me t hod is t he more accurat e b ut in some case s t he b at h aft e r
.

dy e ing has a di ffe r e n t color from t hat of s t ar t ing and again som e , , ,

dy e s (mordan t colors ) giv e solu t ions which do no t accurat e ly

re pr e s e n t t h e color ob t ain e d by dy e ing ; in which cas e s t h e
lat t e r m e t hod only could b e u s e d .

Expe ri m e nt 1 6 2 To De t e rm i n e t h e Co rr e ct Am o un t o f M01
.

da n t t o Us e . Mordan t six t e s t sk e ins of woole n yarn e ach wi t h

-

4 p e r c e n t of t ar t ar and t h e fo llowing amoun t s of chrom e

.
2 88 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EM IS TR Y .

( )
1 1 p e r c e nt .
(4 ) 5 p e r c e nt .

( )
2 2 p e r c e nt .
(5 ) 8 per c e nt .

(3 ) 3 p e r c ent .
(6 ) 1 2 p e r ce nt .

E nte r at F rais e t o boiling and mordan t for 4 5 minu t e s ;

1 40
°
,

wash and d y e t h e s ke ins all t og e t h e r wi t h 3 p e r c e n t of Ali z arin

,
.

R e d in t h e usual mann e r R ins e and dry Comp ar e t h e s e ve r al

. .

sk e ins and by s e l e c t ing t h e b e s t color t hus d e t e rmin e which

,

p e rc e n t ag e of chrom e is t h e prop e r o ne t o u se For n e arly all .

purpos e s of mordan t ing i t has b e e n found t hat abou t 3 pe r c e n t .

of chrom e give s t h e b e s t r e sul t s A l arg e r amoun t of chrome .

app e ars t o oxidi ze t h e wool and caus e bad shad e s in dy e ing ;

t his is known as ov e r chroming and t he wool b e com e s h arsh
-

and bri tt l e .

Expe ri m e n t 1 6 3 To De t e rm i n e th e De gr e e o f Exh a u s ti o n o f
.

t h e Mo r d an t B a t h —
Mordan t a t e s t sk e in of woole n yarn in a
.
-

bat h con t aining 3 00 cc of wa t e r 3 p e r c e n t of chrom e 4 p e r c e n t

.
,
.
, .

°
of t ar t ar E n t e r a t 1 40 F raise t o boiling and mordan t for
.
,

45 minu t e s S qu e e z e
. b ack t h e liquor from t h e sk e in in t o t h e

b at h and wash w e ll Add suffi ci e n t wat e r t o t he mordant bat h t o

.

bring i t s volum e up t o 3 00 cc again and wi t hou t fur t h e r addi .

,

t ions mordan t a s e cond sk e in in a S imilar man n e r

,
R e p e at in .

t h e sam e way wi t h a t hird sk e in Th e n d y e t h e t hr e e sk e ins .

t og e t h e r wi t h 3 pe r c e n t Ali z arin R e d in t h e usual mann e r and

.
,

finally compare t he sk e ins for d e p t h o f shad e in ord e r t o d e t e r .

m i n e t h e r e lat ive e xhaus t ion of t he mord an t ba t h (4 5 1 4 5 2 , ,

R e p e at t h i s t e s t using a mordan t ing bat h of 3 00 cc of wat e r

,
.
,

3 p e r c e n t of chrom
. e 2
p e r c e nt of,
lac t ic acid 2 p e r c e n
. t of ,
.

sulphuric acid Mordan t t hr e e t e s t sk e ins succ e ssive ly in t h e

.
-

mann e r abov e d e scrib e d and d ye again wi t h 3 p e r c e n t of Al i z arin .

Re d . Comp ar e t h e s e (4 5 4 4 5 5 4 5 6 ) for d e p t h of shad e t o d e t e r

, ,

min e t he r e lat ive e xhaus t ion o f t h e b at h and al so t o d e t e rmin e if

t h e e xhaus t i on is t h e sam e in t h e s e cond cas e as in t h e firs t .

Expe ri m e n t 1 64 To Sh ow t h e Di c hr o i c Pro pe r t y of a Dy es tu ff
. .

“ ”
Coloring ma t t e rs ar e known as dichroic wh e n t h e y c h an g e
-

t h e ir t on e wi t h chang e of in t e nsi t y Mage n t a for ins t anc e in .

, ,
290 D YEIN G AN D TEX TIL E CH EMIS TR Y .

1
1 6 p e r c e n t of Auramin e and
.
p e r c e n t of M ag e n t a and 1
1 11 .
,

ano t h e r sk e in (4 7 1 ) wi t h 2 p e r c e n t of Auram i n e and 2 p e r c e n t . .

of M age n t a Th e or e t ically t h e firs t color should b e a r e duc e d

.
,

t i n t of t h e s e cond ; b u t prac t ica lly i t will b e s e e n t ha t t h e t w o

colors are of e n t ir e ly di ffe r e n t ord e rs This is caus e d by t h e .

w i d e variat ion in t h e color of t he M ag e n t a wi t h di ffe r e n t conc e m

t rat i o ns . From t his i t wi ll b e s e e n t ha t t h e dichroic prop e r t y of
a dy e s t u ff has an impor t an t b e aring on i t s mixing quali t i e s wi t h
o t h e r dy e s in t h e compounding of shad e s A re d and a blu e d ye .

wh e n us e d t og e t h e r in h e avy shad e s may give a v e ry sat isfac t ory

viole t ; b u t if t h e a tt e mp t is mad e t o ob t ain a r e duc e d t in t of t hi s
viol e t by using small p e rc e n t ag e s of t h e t wo colors in t h e sam e
propor t ions i t will p e rhaps b e found t hat a t in t of an e n t ir e ly
,

d i ffe re nt co lo r i s ob t ain e d Th e sam e is tru e wh e n d e ali ng wi t h

'

gr e e n and orang e colors In ord e r t o b e com e acquain t e d wi t h

.

t h e t ru e mixing quali t i e s of his dy e s t u ffs t h e dy e r should b e ,

familiar wi t h t he colors t h e y giv e wi t h large m e dium and small ,

p e rc e n t ag e s and in t h e mixing of his shad e s h e mus t mak e d ue

,

allowanc e for t h e chang e in t on e of color of t h e dy e s wi t h varying

conc e n t rat ion .

S A M P LES .

Wi th 1 pe r ce nt . o fd y f
es t u f .

Wi t h 2 pe r ce nt . o f dye st ufl .

Wi th 3 pe r ce nt y t ff . o fd es u .

Wi t h 4 pe r ce nt f dy t ff . o es u .

Wi th 5 pe r cent f d y t ff . o es u .

Wi th 6 pe r ce nt f d y t ff . o es u .

D y i ng p
e t i ng fi t b t h
re re se n rs a .

Dy i g f m
e n h t d b th
ro ex au s e a .

S d d y i ng m t h d t fi t
e co n e a c e o rs .

Wi t h 1
pe r ce nt . o f m o r d a nt .

Wi t h 2
pe r ce n t . o f m o rd a n t .

Wi t h 3 pe r ce nt . o f m o r d a nt .

Wi t h 5 pe r ce nt . o f m o r d a nt .

Wi t h 8 pe r ce n t . o f m o rdant .

Wi t h 1 2
pe r ce nt . o f m o r dant .

Re p re se nt i n gfi rs t b at h o f m o rd ant .

Re p re se nt i n gfi rst e xh a u s t i o n o f m o rdant .
 M IS CELLAN EO US TES TS IN D YEIN G . 29 1

453 . Re p re se n t i n g se co nd e xh au st i o n o f m o r d a nt .

454 . F i r s t m o r d a nt b ath wi t h l a ct i c a ci d .

45 5 . Fi rs t e x h a u st i o n wit h l ti i d ac c ac .

45 6 . Se co n d e x h au s t i n wi th l ti
o id ac c ac .

4 5 7 4 62
— . Di ch ro i c p p ty f M g t
ro er o a en a .

463 . D y i g wi t h 3 p
e n e r ce nt . Au ra m i ne .

464 . Dy i g w i t h 3 p
e n e r ce nt . Ma ge nt a .

465 . D y i ng w i t h
e p
1
1 3 e r ce nt . Au ra m i ne .

466 . Dy i n g w i t h
e p
1
1 5 er ce n t . Ma ge nt a .

467 . Dy i g w i t h p
e n 2 e r ce nt . Au ra m i ne Mage nt a and 3 pe r ce nt . .

468 . Dy i g w i t h p
e n 2 e r ce nt Au ra m i ne a n d 1 pe r ce nt M a g e nt a
. . .

Dy i ng wi t h p e r ce nt Au ra m i ne a nd 1 17 pe r ce nt Ma ge n t a
3
469 . e 2 . . .

Dy i g w i t h e r ce nt A 1 5 pe r ce nt Ma ge nt a
1 m i n n d 1
47 0 . e n p 1 5 u ra e a . . .

47 1 . D y i ng w i t h p
e 2 e r ce nt Au ra m i ne a n d 2 pe r ce nt Ma ge n t a
. . .

Q U IZ 25 .

. w
7 0 9 Ho w o u ld yo u d e t e rm i ne t h e a m o u nt o fd y e s t uf
f re qu i re d to yi ld e a

full sh a d e o f co lo r ? Wh a t e r ce nt a e p g o f Aci d V i o le t gi v e s a sa t i s fa c o r t y f ll u

sh a d e ?
7 1 0 . Wh a t i s me ant by t he de g re e o f e xh a u st i o n o f t h e d ye -
b at h ? Ho w
ma y t h i s b e d e t e rm i ne d ? Gi v e t w o m e t h o d s .

7 1 1 . If o n a 2 pe r ce nt y i ng f fi. d e o r rs t b ath it re qu i re d pe r ce nt . o f d ye
fo r the se co n d b at h , wh t w t h d g
a as e e r ee o f e xh a u st i o n ?
7 1 2 . De s cr ib e t h e t e s t t o d e t e r m i ne t h e co rre ct a m o u nt o f m o rd a nt t o u se .

Wh a t pe r ce n a t g e o f ch ro m e g av e t he b e st m o rda nt i n ? g
713 g
Ho w m ay t h e d e re e o f e x h a u st i o n o f t h e m o rd ant a t h b e d e t e r
. b
p
m i ne d ? Ho w d o e s t hi s co m are fo r t art a r a nd la ct i c a ci d a s si st an t s ?
714 . Wh a t by t h di h
i s m e a nt e c ro ic p p ty
ro er o fa d y f?
e st uf Wh at i s the
d i ch ro i sm exhi b i t d by M g t ?
e a en a

7 1 5 . Ho w w ld y o u d t mi n o u e er e the di ch ro i sm o f a d y e s t uff? Wh at di d
y o u o b se r ve i n t he ca se s o f Eo si n , Me t h yl V i o le t ,
a nd Mala ch i t e G ree n
716 . Wh at i s t he g e ne ral e f
fe ct o f d i ch ro i sm i n th e co m p o u nd i n g o f co lo rs ?
Ho w m a y t h i s b e s h wn ?
o
 TES TIN G TH E F A S TN ES S o r COLO R S .

IN Se c t ion IX bri e f m e t hods hav e al re ady b e e n give n for t h e

,

t e s t ing of dy e d colors t o various age nci e s Th e pr e s e n t s e c t ion

.

is in t e nd e d t o b e a mor e e x t e nd e d disc ussion of t his subj e c t .

B y t h e fas t n e ss of a d ye is me an t i t s r e sist anc e t o t h e ac t ion

“ ”

of various ag e nci e s t o ch ang e i t in color or app e aranc e Th e .

fas t n e ss of dye s di ffe rs v e ry wid e ly e ve n among t h e sam e class ;

som e acid dy e s for inst anc e are v e ry fas t whil e o t h e rs ar e fugi
, ,

t ive ; and t h e sam e is t ru e in g e n e ral of t h e basic and subs t an t iv e

dy e s Th e mordan t dy e s are t o b e r e gard e d as having t h e gre a t
.

e s t fas t n e ss wh e n t ak e n as a class ; and t h e basic dy e s as a class , ,

ar e prob ably t h e mos t fugi t iv e Ag ain dy e s may b e fast t o o ne

.
,

age ncy and no t t o o t h e rs ; for ins t anc e Th io fl av i n T dy e d on

,

co tt on is v e ry fas t t o washing and t o fulling b u t no t a t al l fas t ,

t o ligh t. Fur t h e r a d y e may b e fas t on o ne fibr e and no t on

,

ano t h e r ; and may b e fas t wh e n dy e d by o ne m e t hod (or mordan t)

and no t fas t wh e n dy e d by ano t h e r m e t hod (or mordan t ) .

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 6 6 Te s ti n g Fa s tn e ss o f Co lors Dy e d o n Wo o l
. .

Th e chi e f ag e nci e s t o w hich colors on wool a r e t e s t e d t o g e t h e r ,

wi t h t h e m e ans of so t e s t ing t h e m are as follows ,

( )
1 F as t ne ss t o Li g h t A.sampl e of t h e dy e d wool is plac e d

in a sui t able fram e in such a mann e r t hat only a p ar t is e xpos e d .

Th e fram e is t h e n plac e d i n such a posi t ion t hat i t r e c e ive s as

s t rong sunligh t as possibl e b u t is shi e ld e d from e xposur e t o t he
,

at mosph e r e by glass A window wi t h sou t h e rn e xposur e is a good

.

locat ion in which t o hang t h e fram e con t aining t h e sample s At .

t h e e nd of o n e w e e k s e xposur e t h e sampl e s ar e e xamin e d and

’

no t e mad e of t hos e which show any appr e ciabl e fading ; t h e s e are

t o b e classifi e d as no t fa s t At t h e e nd of t h e s e cond w e e k
.

ano t h e r e xaminat ion is mad e and t hos e sampl e s no t e d which

2 94 D Y EIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EM IS TR Y .

Dy e d wool e n mat e ri al of al mos t any charac t e r should b e capabl e

of s t anding a mor e or l e ss s e v e r e scouring as such an op e rat ion
,

i s al ways n e c e ssary in t h e cl e ansing and finishing of wool e n goods

in t h e cours e of t h e ir manufac t ur e M a t e ri al dy e d as loose
.

s t ock mus t aft e rwards s t and a ra t h e r s e v e r e scouring in ord e r t o

r e mov e t h e oils add e d for purpos e s of spinning ; yarn dy e d -

mat e ri al al so accumul at e s consid e rabl e gr e as e and dir t in handling

and w e aving and mus t also b e scour e d G oods dy e d in t he pi e c e
.

a r e usu all y scour e d b e for e dy e ing ; h e nc e colors in t his la t t e r

case n e e d no t b e e sp e ci ally fas t t o scouring unl e ss t h e charac t e r

,

of t he goods r e quir e s t h e m t o b e subs e qu e n t ly scour e d e i t h e r in

manufac t uring or in w e ar ing Th e b e s t mann e r of conduc t ing
.

t h e washing or scouring t e s t i s as follows : Plai t t og e t h e r a fe w

s t rands of t he dy e d t e st sk e in wi t h an e qual por t ion of whi t e wool
-

yarn and whi t e co t t on yarn Scour t his sampl e for 1 0 minu t e s

.

in a mini at ur e scouring b a t h ( abou t 50 cc ) con t aining 5 gram s.

of soap p e r li t r e at a t e mp e ra t ur e of 1 40 F Squ e e z e wash o ff

°
.
,

in fr e sh wat e r and dry No t e if t he d y e t in t s t he soap solu t ion

,
.
,

and if i t t in t s e i t h e r t h e whi t e wool or t h e whi t e co t t on Th e .

lat t e r is us e d in t h e t e st as co t t on t hr e ads a re fr e qu e n t ly e mploy e d

in t h e w e aving of wool e n goods Som e dy e s may t in t t he soap
.

solu t ion wi t hou t s t aining t h e whi t e yarns b u t t his may r e sul t in

,

t h e s t aining of o t h e r colors h e nc e such dy e s c anno t b e consid e r e d

,

fas t ; again som e dy e s may s t a i n t h e whi t e wool an d no t t h e

, ,

whi t e co t t on or v i ce v e rs a ; in e i t h e r c as e t he color mus t b e

, ,

class e d as no t fast As t o d e gr e e s of fas t n e ss an arbi t rary

.
,

classifica t ion may b e mad e as follows

1
. Fas t ; do e s no t t in t t h e soap liquor nor e i t h e r of t h e whi t e
,

yarns .

2
. Fairly fas t ; t in t s t h e soap liquor b u t no t t h e whi t e yarns
,
.

3
. N o t fas t ; t in t s e i t h e r of t h e whi t e yarns ; t h e soap liquor
may or may no t b e t in t e d .

M ak e up plai t e d t e s t sampl e s from e ach of t h e t e n colors giv e n

above and t e s t t h e m t o fas t n e ss t o washing in t h e mann e r d e
,

scrib e d ; i t i s ne e dle s s t o add t hat a fr e sh por t ion of soap liquo r

'

mus t b e use d for e ach sampl e t e s t e d .

 TES TIN G TH E F AS TN ESS O F CO LO RS . 29 5

(3 ) F ast ness to F u lli ng . This is also c al l e d milling and ,

r e fe rs t o t h e proc e ss wh e r e by wool e n clo t h is fe l t e d mor e or le ss in

ord e r t o mak e a d e ns e r fabric or t o o t h e rwis e fi nish t h e goods .

Th e f e l t ing i s c arri e d o u t in fulling mills or s t ocks in which t h e ,

m at e r i al i s sa t ura t e d usually wi t h an alk al in e soap liquor and t h e n

’

rubb e d and squ e e z e d t og e t h e r un t il t h e d e sir e d d e gr e e of fe l t ing

is ob t ain e d Th e proc e ss of fulling is a v e ry s e v e r e t e st on colors
.
,

and t h e mordan t dy e s are abou t t h e only on e s which will s t and

a hard fulling ; t h e r e ar e how e v e r c e r t ain acid and subs t ant iv e
, ,

colors on wool which will s t and a fair d e gr e e of fulling Th e .

b asic dy e s will no t s t and fulling .

Th e fulling t e s t may b e s t b e carri e d o u t as follows

M ak e a loose plai t con t aining s e v e ral s t rands of t h e dye d yarn
mix e d wi t h s t rands of whi t e wool e n and co tt on yarns and t r e at ,

wi t h a solu t ion con t aining 1 0 grams of soap and 2 grams of sod a

ash p e r li t r e a t 1 40 F Soak t h e sampl e in t his so lu t ion and rub
°
.

b e t w e e n t wo pi e c e s of board un t il t h e wool yarns ar e w e ll fe lt e d

t og e t h e r
. Th e n wash in fr e sh wa t e r and dry No t e if t h e color
,
.

has los t in in t e nsi t y or if i t has bl e d in t o e i t h e r t h e whi t e wool

or co tt on In such case t h e dy e canno t b e consid e r e d fas t t o
.

fulling According t o t he d e gr e e of bl e e ding t h e color may b e

.
,

class e d as no t fas t or as fai rly fa st If t h e dy e n e i t h e r lose s in

.

color nor bl e e ds i t may b e classe d as fas t Pr e p ar e t e s t sample s

,
.

from e ach of t h e t e n dy e s give n and t e s t t h e m in mann e r d e ,

scrib e d for fast n e ss t o fulling .

(4 ) F a s t ne s s t o Ru bb i n g
— T his
. is a l so t e rm e d crocking ,

and r e fe rs t o wh e t h e r or no t t h e d y e wi ll m ec h am c ally rub o ff and ,

t hus s t ain whi t e or o t h e r colors wi t h which i t may com e in con t ac t .

He avy shad e s are mor e ap t t o rub t han ligh t shad e s As a rul e .

,

t h e acid and subs t an t iv e dy e s on wool do no t rub ; t h e b asic dy e s

fr e qu e n t ly show t his d e fe c t ; h e avy shad e s of mordan t (or pig
m e n t dy e s in g e ne r al ) will fr e qu e n t ly rub o ff t o som e e x t e n t ,

wh e r e as ligh t e r shad e s do no t He avy shad e s of indigo ( a

.

pigm e n t d y e ) for inst anc e rub o ff consid e rably Th e t e s t for

, ,
.

fas t n e ss t o rubbing is e asily and simply c arri e d o u t by rubbing

a por t ion of t he dy e d sample on a pi e c e of whi t e c alico and ,
2 96 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EM IS TR Y .

n o t ing if a s t ain is l e ft Te s t t h e t e n dy e d sampl e s in t his mann e r

.
,

a n d classify as fa s t or n o t fas t t o rubbing .

(5 ) F as t n e s s t o W a te r — . Th e obj e c t of t his is t o discov e r

i f t h e d y e w i ll bl e e d in t o whi t e yarn on boiling in wa t e r or on pro
l ong e d s t e e ping in cold wa t e r . Te s t as follows : (a ) Plai t
s e v e ral s t rands of t h e dy e d yarn wi t h som e whi t e wool and wh i t e

c o t t on yarns and boil wi t h wa t e r for 1 hour

, Squ e e z e and dry
. .

N o t e if t h e whi t e yarns b e com e s t ain e d b

( )
. U se ano t h e r
plai t e d sampl e as abov e and s t e e p in cold wat e r for 1 2 hours
, ,
.

No t e if t h e whi t e yarns b e com e s t ain e d If t h e d ye do e s no t

.

bl e e d at all in boiling wa t e r i t may b e class e d as fas t ; if i t bl e e ds

.

sligh t ly in boiling wat e r b u t no t in cold wa t e r i t is fai rly fas t ;

, ,

a nd if i t bl e e ds in t h e cold wa t e r t e s t i t i s n o t f a s t
,
Car ry o u t
.

t e s t s on t h e t e n dy e d sampl e s in t h e mann e r d e scrib e d a nd ,

classify t h e s e dye s wi t h r e sp e c t t o t h e ir fas t n ess t o wa t e r .

( )
6 F a s t n e s s t o W e a t he r B
.
y t his is m e an t fas t n e ss t o t h e

v arying condi t ions of e xposur e t o t he a t mosph e r e such as al t e r

,

n a t e w e tt ing by rain or d e w and drying by t h e h e at of t h e sun e t c ,

.

T h e b e s t and mos t prac t ical m e t hod of applying t his t e s t is t o

e xpos e a sampl e of t h e dy e d ma t e ri al t o t h e ac t ion of t h e w e a t h e r

for t wo w e e ks or more B u t t h e r e sult s may b e approximat e ly

.

r e pr e s e n t e d by t h e following t e s t (a ) St e e p a sampl e of t h e
.

d y e d y arn in a solu t ion con t aining 2 p ar t s of hydrog e n p e roxid e

( I o—
volum e s t r e ng t h ) and 1 0 par t s of wa t e r for 1 hour D r
y .

a nd compar e wi t h t h e original sampl e .

( )
b R e p e a t t h e t e s t ,

u sing a hydrog e n p e roxid e solu t ion of 1 0 volum e s t r e ng t h undi -

l u t e d wi t h wa t e r ; s t e e p for 1 hour and on drying comp ar e wi t h

,

t h e original sampl e . If no al t e rat ion in t h e color is appr e ciable

a ft e r t e s t (b ) t h e d y e may b e class e d as fa s t ; if t e s t (b ) Shows an
,

a l t e ra t ion in t h e color b u t no t
,
t h e d y e may b e class e d as
fai rly fa s t ; if t e s t (a ) shows an appr e ciabl e al t e rat ion t h e d ye i s ,

n o t fa s t . B y combining t his t e s t w i t h t h e o ne t o sunligh t a fair ,

i d e a of t h e fas t n e ss of t h e d y e t o w e a t h e r e xposur e may b e gain e d .

It is prob abl e t hat in t h e w e t t ing of mat e ri al by rain or d e w and

s ubs e qu e n t e vapora t ion by t h e h e a t of t h e sun a t rac e of hydro ,

g e n p e roxid e is form e d which has a bl e aching ac t ion on colors .

2 98 D YEIN G AN D TEX TIL E C H EM IS TR Y .

chang e in color or s t ain i ng t he d y e is t o b e classifi e d as no t fas t ,

fai rly fa s t or fa s t
, .

( )
1 0 F a s t n e s s t o Li m e o r S t r ee t D u s t . D y e d clo t h ing ma t e rials
such as ladi e s dr e ss goods and ge n t l e m e n s sui t ings hav e t o wi t h
’ ’

s t and t h e ac t ion o f s t r e e t dus t mud e t c This ac t ion is b e s t

, ,
.

r e pr e s e n t e d by a t e st wi t h lim e as fo llows : Spo t a sampl e of t h e

dy e d yarn wi t h a solu t ion con t aining 2 0 grams quicklim e and
1 0 cc ammoni a p e r li t r e
. .Allow t his t o dry on t h e ma t e ri al and ,

t h e n brush o ff . No t e if t he color has suffe r e d any al t e ra t ion .

( )
1 1 F a s t n e s s t o S u l p h u r i n g o r S t o v i n g . In som e c as e s dy e d
wool e n yarn is wov e n t oge t h e r wi t h whi t e and t he clo t h s ub s e
qu e nt ly bl e ach e d by t h e ac t ion of sulphurous acid gas To dis .

cov e r if t he dye will wi t hs t and t he ac t ion of t he sulphurous acid

t e s t as follows : Tak e a small sampl e of t h e dy e d yarn mois t e n i t ,

wi t h wat e r and hang i t for 6 hours in a close d bo t t l e fill e d wi t h

,

sulphurous acid gas (ob t ain e d by burning a pi e c e of sulphur in

t h e bo t t l e ) . No t e if t h e color und e rgo e s any al t e rat ion and cor ,

r e sponding t o t he e xt e n t of ch ange classify t he d ye as n o t fa s t ,

fai rly fa s t or f as t
,
.

( )
1 2 F as t n ess t o S t e a m i n g . In t h e various finishing op e ra
t ions dy e d wool e n fabrics may b e subj e c t e d t o a s t e aming op e ra
,

t ion in ord e r t o giv e t h e S urfac e of t he goods a lus t r e and a c e r t ain

“ ” “
fi nish This proc e ss i s fr e qu e n t ly c all e d d e cat i z ing or po tt
.

”
ing . Th e sam e op e rat ion is c arri e d o u t on goods compos e d of
wool and co t t on yarns in ord e r t o pr e v e n t crinkling in which c as e ,

”
i t is c all e d crabbing . To t e s t a dy e s t uff t o t he influ e nc e of
such an op e rat ion proc ee d as follows : Pr e p ar e a plai t e d sampl e
con t aining t h e dy e d yarn t og e t h e r wi t h whi t e wool and co t t on .

St e am t h e sampl e for o ne half hour und e r abou t 5 pounds pr e ssur e

-
.

No t e if t h e color su ffe rs any al t e rat ion or if i t s t ains t h e whi t e,

yarns According t o t h e e x t e n t of chang e or s t aining classify t h e

.
.

d y e as n o t fa s t f ai r ly f a s t or fas t
, ,
.

( 3)
1 F a s t n e ss t o H o t P r e ss i n g o r I r o ni ng W . ool e n ma t e rial
e mploy e d in t h e manufac t ur e of sui t i ngs e t c ,
r e quir e s t o b e h o t
.
,

pr e ss e d or iron e d To discov e r if a dy e s t u ff will wi t hs t and such

.

a tr e at m e n t t e st as follows : (a ) Mois t e n a sampl e of t h e dy e d

,
~
 TES TIN G TH E F AS TN ESS OF CO LO RS . 2 99

yarn and pr e ss wi t h a ho t iron t ill dry No t e i f t he color und e rgo e s .

any al t e ra t ion on cooling (b ) M ois t e n a sampl e of t h e dy e d

.

yarn and cov e r wi t h a pi e c e of whi t e muslin t h e n pr e ss wi t h a ,

h o t iron un t il dry No t e if t h e color su ffe rs any al t e rat ion or if

.

i t s t ains t h e whi t e muslin If no chang e t ak e s plac e und e r (a )

.

class t h e dy e as fa s t ; if i t change s und e r (a ) b ut no t und e r (b ) or ,

s t ains t h e whi t e sligh t ly wi t hou t any o t h e r p e rc e p t ibl e chang e ,

class as f ai rly f a s t ; if t h e color is al t e r e d by bo t h (a ) and (b ) class

as no t fa st .

Ex pe ri m e nt 1 6 7 Te s ti ng t h e Fa s tne ss o f Co tt o n Dy e i n g s
. .

In many case s dy e ings on co tt on mat e rials ar e t e s t e d in t h e sam e

m a nn e r as on wool ; b u t t h e r e are d e vi at ions from t h e lat t e r ,

owing t o t h e di ffe r e n t charac t e r of t h e fibr e Th e following a re .

t h e chi e f t e s t s t o b e appli e d t o dy e d co t t on ma t e ri al

( )
1 F a s t ne s s t o Li ght T e s t e d in t he sam e mann e r as wi t h
.

wool .

( )
2 F a s t n es s t o W a s h i ng
— T e s t e d in t h
. e sam e mann e r as
Wi t h wool .

(3 ) F a s t n e s s t o F u ll i n g T e s t e d in
. t h e s am e mann e r as
wi t h wool .

bi —
(4 ) F a s t n e ss t o R u b n g T e s t e d in . t h e sam e mann e r as
wi t h wool .

(5 ) F a s t n e s s t o W a t e r T e s t e d .in t h e sam e mann e r as wi t h

wool .

( )
6 F a s t n e s s t o A ci d It is fr
. e qu e n t ly t h e prac t ic e t o. w e av e

dy e d co t t on yar n wi t h whi t e wo Ol and subs e qu e n t ly t o d y e t h e

wool wi t h acid colors This is t e r me d cross dy e ing
.
“
To dis -
.

cove r if t he dy e d co tt on will wi t hs t and t h e ac t ion of t h e boiling acid

d y e b at h t e s t as follows : Plai t a sampl e of t h e dy e d yarn wi t h
-
,

whi t e wool and co t t on and boil for 1 hour in a solu t ion con t ain
,

ing 1 cc sulphuric acid and

. grams glaub e rs alt p e r li t r e Th e n .

wash and dry No t e if t h e color sus t ains any al t e ra t ion or if i t

.

ble e ds in t o t he whi t e yarns and classify t h e dy e as no t fast , ,

fai rly fa s t or fa s t ,
.

s t nes s t o Wea t h er T e s t e d wi t h hydrog e n p e roxid e in

(7 ) F a .

t he sam e mann e r as wi t h wool .

300 D YEIN G AN D TEX TIL E CH EM IS TR Y
'

( )
8 F a s t ness t o P e r s p i r a t i o n . Te s t e d wi t h ac e t ic acid in the
sam e mann e r as wi t h wool .

(9 ) F a s t n ess t o A lka l i This is t e s t e d in t h e following man

.

ne r : (a ) St e e p a sampl e of t h e dy e d yarn for 2 minu t e s in cold

ammoni a wat e r (full s t r e ng t h ) and obs e rve if t h e color und e rgo e s

,

any al t e rat ion (b ) St e e p a S imilar sampl e in a solu t ion con t aining

.

1 0 grams of soda as h t o 1 00 cc of wa t e r for 2 minu t e s an d dry .

,

wi t hou t washing No t e if t h e color und e rgo e s any al t e rat ion

. .

( )
c P lai t a sampl e of t h e dy e d yarn wi t h whi t e wool and co t t on ,

and boil for o ne half hour in a solu t ion con t aining 2 grams of
-

soda ash p e r li t r e ; rins e and dry O bs e rve if t h e color su ffe rs any .

chang e and if t h e whi t e yarns b e com e t in t e d From t h e s e t e s t s

,
.

classify t he color as f a s t fai rly f a s t or no t f as t

, , .

( )
1 0 F a s t nes s t o M e rc e ri zi n g In som e c as e s co.tt o n i s m e r

c e r i z e d aft e r b e ing dy e d ; and as t h e m e rc e ri z ing proc e ss consis t s

in t r e at ing t h e mat e ri al wi t h s t rong solu t ions of caus t ic sod a i t i s ,

n e c e ssary t hat t h e dy e d color should no t b e affe c t e d by t his t r e a t

m e n t in ord e r t o b e e mploy e d on t his class of mat e rial Carry .

o u t t h e t e s t as follows : St e e p a; sampl e of t h e dy e d yar n in a

solu t ion of caust ic so da of 5 0 Tw for 5 minu t e s ; wash w e ll in °

.

cold wat e r t h e n in ho t wat e r and finally in wa t e r acidulat e d wi t h

, ,

ac e t ic acid ; dry and obse rve if t h e color has und e rgon e any
,

al t e rat ion and classify accordingly as fas t , fai rly fast or no t

, ,

fa s t .

( )
1 1 F a st ness t o Chlo ri ne fabrics
or con B leachi ng . Co tt on
t aining whi t e in t e rwov e n wi t h color e d yarns are fr e qu e n t ly
bl e ach e d mor e or l e ss t horoughly in ord e r t o cl e ar t h e whi t e ; such
mat e ri al as co t t on t ow e lling con t aining color e d bord e rs is also
bl e ach e d qui t e t horoughly To discov e r if a d y e will w i t hs t and
.

t h e ac t ion of ble aching which is don e wi t h solu t ions of chlorid e of

lime t h e following t e s t should b e mad e : St e e p a sampl e of t he
,

dy e d yarn in a cold solu t ion of chlorid e of lim e of 1 3 Tw for °

.

1 hour R ins e in wat e r sligh t ly acidulat e d wi t h hydrochloric

.

acid t h e n in dilu t e soap solu t ion and finally dry O bs e rv e if t h e

, ,
.

color has und e rgon e any al t e rat ion in shad e and classify accord ,

i n gly as fas t fai r l y fas t and no t fa s t

, ,
.
 304 D YEIN G AN D TEX TIL E CH EM IS TR Y .

(3 ) S lu b bi ng a nd To p s . fa s t n Th e
e ss r e quir e d and t h e dy e s

r e comm e nd e d are t h e sam e as for loos e wool .

( )
4 W e a v i n g Y a r n s ( W o r s t e d C h ev i o t a n,
d C a rd e d Y a r n s ) .

As t h e s e are chi e fly us e d for scouring and fulling purpose s t h e ,

fas t n e ss r e quir e d and t h e dy e s r e comm e nd e d are t he sam e a s

for loose wool .

(5 ) W o r s t e d K n i t t i n g Y a r n s a n d H o s i e r y Y a r n s T h e s e .
-

r e quir e fas t n e ss t o scouring p e rspira t ion an d rubbing Sub s t an

, ,
.

t iv e and mordan t dy e s ar e r e comm e nd e d ; also t h e fas t e r ac i d dy e s .

( )
6 Y a r n s f o r F la n ne l s R u g s B
,
la n k e t s P la,
i d s e t c T h
,
e s e ,
.

r e quir e a mod e ra t e fas t n e ss t o fulling ; al so fas t n e ss t o p e rs p i

rat ion an d rubbing and for rug yarns fast n e ss t o s t oving i s
,

fr e qu e n t ly d e sir e d Subs t an t iv e and mordan t dy e s ar e re co m

.

m e nd e d as w e ll as t he fas t e r acid colors e sp e ci ally t hose which ,

a r e af t e r t r e a t e d
-
.

(7 ) C a r p e t a n d T a p e s t r
y Y a r n s — T h e s e r e quir
. e fas t n e ss t o

ligh t cold wa t e r and rubbing ; dy e s posse ss e d of good l e ve lling

, ,

prop e r t i e s ar e al so d e sir e d Th e b e s t dy e s are acid colors fas t

.

t o ligh t t h e n t h e mordan t dy e s and t h e subs t an t ive dy e s which

, ,

a r e af t e r t r e a t e d wi t h blu e s t on e
-
.

( )
8 W o r s t e d B ra i d s T . h e s e r e quir e dy e s t ha t p e n e t ra t e

w e ll and t hat are fas t t o l i gh t and rubbing Th e sam e colors

,
.

as for t h e pr e c e ding ar e r e comm e nd e d .

(9 ) F a n c y Y a r n s —
F . as t n e ss t o s t oving a n d cl e ar bri ll i an t

colors ar e usually d e sir e d Th e b e s t dy e s t o u s e ar e t he l e v e l

.

dy e ing acid colors and t h e basic colors .

( )
1 0 P i e c e G o o d s c o n s i s t i n g f o W o o le n C lo t hs
( B e av e rs a n d
Melto ns ) Ge ntle me n s S u i t i ngs Wo rs te d Co ati ngs Chev i o ts
,
’
, , ,

Ca r de d Wo o le n Clo t h s B ra i ds fo r Army a nd N av y Clo t hs

, ,

B i lli a rd Clo t h . In such goods i t is d e sirabl e t ha t t h e dy e s b e

l e ve l and p e n e t ra t e w e ll ; fast n e ss t o l i gh t po t t ing h o t pr e ssing , , ,

and rubbing is also r e quir e d and in som e cas e s fast n e ss t o , ,

carboni z ing Th e dy e s b e s t t o u s e ar e t h e fas t e r acid colors and

.

t h e mordan t colors and s e condly t h e sub s t an t iv e dy e s

,
.

( 1 1 ) D ress Go o ds La di es Clo t h s D o gs ki ns D o es ki ns Ca s h
’
, , , ,

mere s Crép o ns et a — Th e s e r e quir e t h e sam e fas t n e ss as t h e

, ,
30 6 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EM IS TR Y .

(4 ) S e w i ng Co tt o n r e quir e s
. fas —
t n e ss Th i s
t o ligh t and
rubbing Th e subs t an t iv e and basic dy e s are c h i e fly use d
. .

(5 ) C o t t o n H o s i e ry a n d K n i t G o o d s T h e s e r e quir e fas t n e ss .

t o wash i ng p e rsp i ra t i on rubbing and som e t i m e s ligh t

, ,
Th e ,
.

dy e s mus t also p e n e t ra t e w e ll Th e colors us e d a re t h e sam e .

as for kni tt ing yarns ; also anilin e black and t h e sulphur colors .

( )
6 P i e c e Go o d s co n s i s t i n g f o M o les ki n s C o tt o n W o r s t e ds , ,

B ea v ers , F u s t i a ns , F la nnelettes , S a tee ns , P lu s he s , Ve lv et s , Co r

du r o y s , et c —
Th e s e
usually r e quir e fas t n e ss t o p e rspira t ion ,

ligh t rubbing h o t pr e ssing and in som e cas e s also fas t n e ss t o

, , ,

washing Th e dy e s mos t ly use d ar e t h e subs t an t iv e colors dy e d

.

dir e c t also diazo t i ze d and d e v e lop e d and aft e r t r e a t e d ; also

, ,
-

t h e sulphur dy e s ; al so subs t an t iv e dy e s t opp e d wi t h basic colors ,

and a t t im e s basic dy e s alon e .

(7 ) C o tt o n L i n i ng s B o bb i nne t T u ll e e t c,
Th e s e r e quir e , ,
.

fas t n e ss t o rubbing p e rspira t ion and fr e qu e n t ly h o t pre ssing

, ,
.

Th e dy e s chi e fly us e d ar e t he subs t an t iv e colors dy e d dir e c t ,

diaz o t i z e d and d e ve lop e d or t opp e d wi t h basic dy e s ; t h e sulphur ,

dy e s ; and t h e basic dy e s B o b b i nne t is fr e qu e n t ly dy e d in .

t h e si z ing .

h
’
( )
8 B o o kbi n de rs C lo t — Abou t t h e only fas t n e ss r e quir e d
is t o ligh t Th e dy e ing is fr e qu e n t ly don e in t he si z ing using
.
,

acid dy e s basic dy e s and subs t an t iv e dy e s

, ,
.

( )
0 U ni o n Go o ds .

( )
1 Th r e a d Wa ste Mod e rat e fas t n e ss t o fulling
,
S ho ddy , et c.

is usually r e quir e d t og e t h e r wi t h ch e apn e ss of dy e ing Th e .

dy e s mos t ly use d ar e t he subs t an t iv e colors e i t h e r alon e or in ,

conjunc t ion wi t h n e u t ral dy e ing acid colors ; also aft e r t r e a t e d -

subs t an t iv e colors .

( )
2 M e r i n o a n d A n g o
'
la Y a r ns B ra i d s e t c Th e r e quir e , ,
.

m e n t s for fas t n e ss vary wi t h t he applicat ion Th e dy e s us e d are .

t hos e giv e n abov e al so subs t an t iv e dy e s t opp e d wi t h b asic

,

colors .

(3 ) H o s i e r y Y a r ns Th e s e r e quir e fas t n
. e ss t o p e rspira t i on ,

washing and rubbing Th e dy e s e mploy e d are t hos e giv e n abov e

, . .
 TES TIN G TH E F AS TN ESS O F CO LO RS .
3 7
0

(4 ) P i ece Go o ds co nsi s ti ng o f Co tto n Wa rp S u i ti ngs , Wo o lens ,

Dress Go o ds , S ha wls , Cre wels , As tra cha ns , It a li a n Clo t h S e rges , ,

H o s i ery F e lt , a n d F la nne ls
,
Th e r e quir e m e n t s for fas t n e ss .

vary wi t h t h e na t ur e and u se of t h e mat e ri al ; in g e n e ral fas t n e ss ‘

,

t o washing and rubbing is d e sir e d ; fas t n e ss t o li gh t i s of minor

impor t anc e wi t h linings and hosi e ry Th e dy e s most ly us e d are .

t h e subs t an t iv e dy e s e i t h e r alon e or in combina t ion wi t h t h e

n e u t ral dy e ing acid colors .

(5 ) L a di e s C lo t h s P re
’
s i de n t s Whi t ne y,
s Mo sco ws B ea v e r s , , , ,

Wo rs te d Co a ti ngs etc Th e only impor t an t r e quir e m e n t i s

,
.

suffi ci e n t fas t n e ss t o ligh t wa t e r rubbing and h o t pr e ssing Th e, , , .

d y e should cov e r t h e co t t on w e ll b e l e v e l dy e ing and hav e good , ,

p e n e t ra t ion Th e sub s t an t ive dy e s ar e principally us e d e i t h e r

.
,

alon e or in combina t ion wi t h n e u t ral dy e m g acid colors .

Q U IZ 26 .

717 . What i s m e a nt by t he
“
fast ne s s ”
o f a d y e st uff? Is t h i s fa st ne ss a

co nst a nt fa ct o r a mo n g d iff e re nt d y es o f t he sa m e cla ss ? Wh i ch cla ss o fd y es

i s t o b e re g arde d a s t h e fa st e st ? Wh i ch g m o st fu i t i v e ?
718 . Do e s t h e sa m e d ye ex hi b i t th m d g e sa e e ree o f fa st ne s s o n d i ffe re nt
fib re s ? Hav e di ffe re nt m e t h o d f d y i ng ny i nfl
s o e a u e n ce o n t he fa st ne ss o f the
co lo r s ?
719 . Wh at a re the a ge ncl e s to w hi ch d y es o n w o o le n ma t e ri als a re

t e st e d ?

720 . G i ve t h e me t h o d o f t e st i n gf ast ne s s t o li h t g . Sho u ld ex p o su re to t he

a t mo s ph e re b e i nclu de d i n a g
li h t t e st , a nd wh y ?
7 2 1 . Why are sta ndard s u se d i n ma i n k g th e g
li h t t e st , a nd wh a t a re t h e se

st and ard s ?

722 . Wh at do e s t h e w ash i n g t e st re p re se nt ? Is w o o en l mat e ri al wy al a s

sco u re d a ft e r d y i ng ? Whi
e ch class o f g o o d s sh o uld h ave d y es fas t t o w hi g as n ,

lo o se s t o c k y ,
a rn , o r clo th ?

723. De scri b e t he w ash i n g o r sco uri n g t e st . Why i s the sa m pl e m i xe d

w it h whi t w e o o l a nd co tto n ?

7 24 . Ho w are d y e s classi fi e d as t o de gree s o f fast ne s s t o w ash i n g?

7 25 . Wh at i s m e a nt by “
fulli n g ”
? By wh at o t h e r t e rm i s i t k n wn ? o Is
t hi s p ro ce ss se v e re o n co lo rs ? Whi ch cla ss o fd y es i s fa st e st t o f lli ng ?
u

726 . De scri b e the me t ho d o f t e sti n gf a st ne s s t o fulli n g .

727 . Wh at i s me ant by t h e
“
cro c k i ng ”
t e st ? Ho w i s i t ca rri e d o u t ?

728 . Wh at is unde rst o o d by fast ne ss t o wat er

”
? Ho w i s the t e st

made ?
30 8 D YEIN G A N D TEX TIL E CH EM IS TR Y . .

729 . Wh a t i s m e ant by fa st ne ss t o
“
w e a t he r Ho w m a y t he t e s t b e
re p re se nt e d by ch e m i ca l m e a ns ? Wi t h wh at o t h e r t e st s h o uld t hi s al wy a s be
co b
m i ne d ?
730 . Wh a t is b
ca r o ni z i n g Ho w i s t h e t e st m a de ?
731 G i ve t he e st m e t h o d o f m a i nb k g t he p pie rs ra t i o n t e st . By wh at

c h e m i cal t e s t m ay i t b e re re se nt e d ? p
7 3 2 In . w
h a t ca se i s a t re a t m e nt ith w k
a l a li gi ve n d y ed w oo le n fa bi r cs ?
Ho w i s t h e t e st fo r fa st ne s s t o a l a li co nd uct e d ? k
7 3 3 Ho w i s fa st ne ss t o st re e t d u st re re se nt e d
. ch e m i ca l m e a ns ? p by
7 3 4 Wh a t i s m e ant
.
“
sto v i n by
Unde r h at ci rcu m sta n ces o uld a g w w
c o lo r b e re q u i re d t o st and t h i s t e st ? Ho w i s t he t e s t fo r fa st nes s ma de ?
7 3 5 Wh a t i s d e ca t i z i n
.
“ ” “
cra in ”
g
? Ho w ma y t h e fa st ne ss o f a co lo r
,
bb g
to st e a mi n gb e t e st e d ?

7 36 . Th e co lo r s o n wh a t cla s se s o f m a t e ri a ls re q u i re fa st ne ss t o i ro ni ng o r
'

ho t -
p re ss i n g? H w i o s t h i s t e st m a de ?
737 . In w h t p a re s e ct s do e s t h e t e st i n g o fd y e d co lo rs o n co t t o n d i ffe r fro m
t h o se o n w l? o o

738 . Ho w i s t h e t e st fo r fa st ne ss t o aci d ca rri e d o u t ? Wh a t i s m e a nt by

c ro ss -
d yi g
e n
”

7 39 . Ho w d o e s t h e t e st fo r fa st ne ss t o k
a l a li d i ffe r o n w oo le n a nd o n co t to n

g o o ds ?
7 40 . Wh at i s me ant by “
m e rce ri zi n g ”
? Und e r wh at co ndi t i o ns w o uld

t h i s fast ne ss b e re qui re d ,
a nd h o w i s t h e t e s t m ad e ?
741 . Ho w do e s t h e bl e a ch i n gt e st fo r co t t o n co lo rs di fl e r fro m t h at o f st o v
ing ?
7 42 . Re fe rri n gt o t he co tt o n co lo rs t e st e d , h o w d o t h e b a si c d y e s co m p are

in g e ne ra l fast ne s s w i th t he su b sta nt i ve d y es ? In w h t p a a rt i cu lars do t he

la t t e r su r p a ss t he b as i c d y es ?
7 43 . Wh at fa st ne ss i s re q ui re d o n lo o se w oo l d y i ng
e s, a nd wh t a ar e t he
c h i e f clas se s o f co lo rs u se d o n t hi s m a t e ri al ? What chara ct e r o f dy es is u se d

o r m a ch i ne d y ing ?
e

7 44 . Wh at fa st ne ss i s re qu i re d fo r sh o dd y dy i ng e s? Why a re b a si c d y es

u se d lar g ly ?
e

7 45 . Wh at a re slu bb i ng a nd to p s? Wh at fast ne ss i s re q ui re d fo r t hese

d yi g
e n s ?
7 46 . Wh at fast ne ss i s ge ne rally ne ce ssa ry fo r wo rst e d a nd w o o le n weavi ng
y arn s ? What dye s are mo stly u se d ?
7 47 . Wh at fa st ness i s re qui re d fo r k ni tt i ng a nd h o sie ry yarns o f wo o l ?
Y a rns fo r ru g bl nk
s, a e t s , and fl a nne ls ?
7 48 . Wh at fas t ne ss i s req ui re d o n ca r e t a nd p ta pe st r yy arns ? Ya rns fo r
wo rs t e d b ra i d ?
7 49 . What a re t he d y es em pl y o ed fo r w oo le n pi ece d y ing
e s ? What is
mea nt by f ast ne ss to
“
po tt i n g ”
?
 SE CTI O N XX VII .

ANALYSIS OF TEX TILE FAB RICS .

Expe rim e nt 1 68 . To Am o u n t o f Wo o l and

De t e rm i n e t h e
Co t t o n i n a Fab ri c A w e igh e d por t ion of t h e sampl e i s boil e d
.

for 1 0 minu t e s in a 5 p e r c e n t solu t ion o f c a u st i c po t ash t h e n

'

.
,

was h e d w e ll firs t wi t h fr e sh wa t e r and af t e rwards wi t h wa t e r

sligh t ly a d i c u lat e d wi t h ac e t ic acid t o r e move all t rac e of alkali .

Th e r e sidu e i s dri e d and w e igh e d As t h e wool i s dissolv e d by

.

t h e alkali t h e loss in w e igh t corr e sponds t o t h e amoun t of wool

, ,

whil e t h e r e sidu e r e pr e se n t s t he co tt on R e cord t h e r e sul t s as .

in t h e following e xampl e
We i gh t o f
After b
o g n
i li n I ca u st i c p h
o t as
Lo ss e q l w l
ua s oo .

Re si due e q uals
He n ce Wo o l pe r ce n t .

Co t t o n pe r ce nt .

As t h e co tt on pr e s e n t will suffe r a sligh t loss in t h e proc e ss i t i s ,

cus t omary t o add 5 p e r c e n t of i t s w e igh t t o t h e co t t on and t o

.
,

sub t rac t t his amoun t from t hat of t h e wool Wi t h t his corr e c t ion .

t h e abov e fi gur e s b e com e :

Wo o l pe r ce nt .

Co t t o n pe r ce nt .

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 69 . Analy si s o f Fa b ri c Co n t ai n i n g Silk an d

Co tt o n .
( ) N
a i cke l H y dr a te MetA w e igh e d por t ion of
h o d .

t h e fabric ( abou t 5 grams ) is s t e e p e d for 5 minu t e s in a cold

solu t ion of nick e l hydrat e in ammo ni a ; t h e n h e at e d almost t o
boiling for 5 minu t e s This t r e a t m e n t should dissolv e t h e Silk
‘
.

comple t e ly Th e r e sidu e of co t t on is t horoughly wash e d dri e d

.
,
”
,

31 0
 AN AL YS IS OF TEX TIL E F AB RICS .
3 1 1

and w e igh e d Th e nick e l hydra t e solu t ion for t his t e s t is pr e

.

par e d as follows : 2 5 grams of crys t alli z e d nick e l sulpha t e are

dissolv e d in 50 0 cc of wa t e r ; t h e n su ffici e n t caus t ic soda solu t ion
.

is add e d t o compl e t e ly pr e cipi t at e t h e nick e l as hydra t e Thi s .

pr e cipi t at e is w e ll wash e d wi t h wa t e r by s e tt ling and d e can t at ion ,

and finally rins e d in t o a 2 5 0 cc flask wi t h 1 2 5 cc of wat e r Th e

. . .

flask is n e x t fill e d wi t h ammoni a wat e r and w e ll shak e n and t h e ,

nick e l hydra t e should finally compl e t e ly dissolv e .

( )
b Z i nc C hlo ri de Me t h o d A w e igh
. e d por t ion of t h e sampl e

i s boil e d for 2 minu t e s in a solu t ion of basic z inc chlorid e of

sp gr Th e r e sidu e of co t t on is t horoughly wash e d firs t
. .

wi t h dilu t e hydrochloric acid and t h e n wi t h wa t e r and t h e n

, ,

dri e d and w e igh e d This t r e at m e n t dissolv e s t h e Silk wi t hou t

.

mat e ri ally a ffe c t ing t h e co t t on Th e b asic z inc chlorid e solu t ion

.

is pr e par e d as follows : 1 0 0 grams of z inc chlorid e and 4 grams of

z inc oxid e ar e dissolv e d in 8 5 cc of h o t wa t e r ; aft e r compl e t e
.

solu t ion t h e liquid should hav e a d e nsi t y of This m e t hod

'

of analysis i s w e ll adap t e d for plush e s and o t h e r h e avy silk

fabrics .

Ex pe r im e n t 1 7 0 Analy s i s o f Fab ri c Con t ai n i n g Wo o l a n d

.

Si lk. A w e igh e d por t ion of t h e sampl e i s s t e e p e d for 2 minu t e s

in conc e n t rat e d hydrochloric acid a t 1 2 0 F This will dissolv e °
.

t h e silk wi t hou t ma t e ri ally affe c t ing t h e wool Wash t h e r e sidu e

.

of wool dry and r e w e igh

, ,
.

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 7 1 An aly si s o f Fa b ri c Co nt a i n i ng Wool Si lk
.
, ,

an d Co t t o n A w e igh e d po r t ion of t h e sampl e i s t r e at e d for

.

1 0 minu t e s wi t h a cold solu t ion of nick e l hydra t e in ammoni a

( s e e abov e ) This will dissolv e any silk pr e s e n t Wash w e ll

. .
,

dry and r e w e igh Th e loss in w e igh t r e pr e s e n t s s i lk Th e

,
. .

r e sidu e is n e x t b Oi le d for 1 0 minu t e s in a 5 p e r c e n t solu t ion of .

caus t ic po t ash This will dissolve any wool pr e s e n t Wash

. .

w e ll dry and r e we igh Th e loss in w e igh t r epr e s e n t s wo o l

, ,
.
,

whil e t h e r e sidu e consis t s of co tto n (s e e Exp 1 6 7 for corr e c t ion .

t o apply t o w e igh t of co t t on ) .

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 7 2 Di sti n c ti o n b e t we e n Tru e Silk an d Ar ti fici al

.

Si lk . Ar t ifici al Silk (or lu stra cellu lo s e ) is a fibr e pr e par e d

-
 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EMIS TR Y
'

3 12 .

from a solu t ion of collodion or o t h e r c e llulos e solu t ion It con .

sis t s of c e llulos e wh e r e as t ru e silk i s a ni t rog e nous animal

,

subs t anc e Ar t ificial Silk burns r e adily in t h e air lik e co t t on

.
,

w i t hou t e volving a s t rong odor ; while silk burns slowly and ,

e mi t s a charac t e ris t ic odor To e s t imat e t he amoun t of ar t ificial

.

silk pr e s e n t in a mixe d fabric a w e igh e d por t ion of t he sample is

,

t r e a t e d at t h e ordinary t e mp e ra t ur e for 2 0 minu t e s wi t h an alka

lin e solu t ion of copp e r sulphat e This will compl e t e ly dissolve
.

t h e na t ural silk l e aving t h e ar t ifici al fibr e as a r e sidu e

,
Th e .

la t t e r is t horoughly wash e d dri e d and r e w e igh e d Th e al kalin e

, ,
.

solu t ion of copp e r sulphat e is pr e par e d by dissolving 1 0 grams

of copp e r sulphat e in 1 00 cc of wat e r and 5 cc of glyc e rin ; a
. .

s t rong solu t ion of caus t ic soda is t h e n add e d un t il t h e p re cipi t at e

a t firs t form e d jus t r e dissolv e s .

Exp e ri m e n t 1 7 3 To Di s ti n gu i s h b e t we e n Co tt o n an d Li n e n
. .

( )
a S t e e p t h e sampl e con t aining t h e s e t w o fibr e s for 2 minu t e s in
conc e n t ra t e d sulphuric acid ; wash w e ll wi t h wa t e r g e n t ly rub ,

wi t h t h e finge rs and finally s t e e p in dilu t e ammonia ; t h e n squ e e ze

,

and dry The co t t on fibr e s will b e conv e r t e d in t o a j e lly like

.
-

mass by t h e ac t ion of t h e acid and is mor e or l e ss compl e t e ly

,

r e mov e d by t he rubbing and washing Th e lin e n r e mains b u t .

li tt l e al t e r e d B y w e ighing t h e sampl e b e for e and aft e r t h e

.

t r e a t m e n t an approxima t e id e a of t h e amoun t s of co tt on and

lin e n pr e se n t may b e ob t ain e d (b ) St e e p t he sampl e t o b e

.
“

t e s t e d in oliv e oil ; t h e n pr e ss b e t w e e n fil t e r pap e r t o r e mov e t h e

e xc e ss of oil . Th e lin e n fibr e s will b e com e g e la t inous in app e ar

anc e and t ransluc e n t wh e r e as t he co t t on r e mains unal t e r e d
,
.

Wh e n plac e d on a d ark background t h e line n fibre s will no w

app e ar dark and t h e co t t on fibr e s ligh t (c ) S t e e p t h.e sampl e

t o b e t e s t e d in an alcoholic solu t ion of rosolic acid and t h e n in a ,

s t rong solu t ion of caus t ic soda ; finally rinse in wa t e r Th e lin e n .

fibr e s w i ll b e com e rose color e d whil e t h e co t t on is color e d much

-
,

ligh t e r and mos t of t h e color is r e move d by t h e rinsing Non e of .

t h e s e t e s t s ar e v e ry sa t isfac t ory wh e n t h e lin e n has b e e n bl e ach e d

for t h e n i t s c e llulos e is prac t ically id e n t ical wi t h t hat of co t t on .

Th e mos t sa t isfac t ory m e ans of qual i t a t iv e ly dis t inguishing l i n e n

3 14 D YEIN G AN D TEX TIL E CH EM IS TR Y , .

7 66 . Of wh t a do e s a rt i fii
c al si l k co ns i s t ? Ho w m a y t h i s fib re be q uali ta
t i ve ly d i st i n g ih
u s ed fro m t rue Si l ? k
7 67 . G i ve a m e t ho d fo r d e t e rmi ni n g th e a mo u nt o fi i l i lk i n
f a rt i c a s a fa b ri c .

7 68 . De s cri b e se v e ra l m e t ho d s fo r d i st i n g u i shi n g b tw n tt
e ee co o n a nd

l i ne n fib re s in a fa b ri c . Wi ll ble a che d li ne n re a ct in a s i mi la r m a nne r ?

7 69 . Gi ve se v e ra l re a ct i o ns to gi
di s ti n u sh b tw
e ee n t ussa h si l k a nd t ru e
s il k Wh
. at i s t h e d i ffe re nce i n o r i g i b tw
n e een t u s sa h k
Sil a nd t ru e si lk?
770 . Ho w w o uld yo u e st i ma t e t he a mo u nt s o f t ussa h si l k a nd t rue k in
si l a.

fa bir c?
 SECTI O N XX VIII .

AN AL YS IS OF TEX TILE F A B R IC S .

Expe ri m e n t 1 75 . Es tim a ti o n o f Si zi n g a nd Dr e ss i n g
Mat e ri als i n a Fa b ri c Th e s e ma t e rials includ e s i zi ng such
.
,

as s t a r c h clay e t c use d for s t i ff e ning a warp or fabric ; fini s hi ng

, , .
,

ma te ri a ls such as glu e m a gn es i um c h l o ri de e t c which may

, , , .
,

b e add e d t o giv e a c e r t ain fini sh t o t he clo t h ; m o r d an t s and

d y e s tuffs as w e ll as gr e a s e e t c
,
which may b e pr e s e n t in t h e
,
.
,

fabric A w e igh e d sampl e of t h e fabric is boil e d for 1 5 minu t e s

.

in a 3 pe r c e n t solu t ion of hydrochloric acid ; wash w e ll and boil

.
,

for 1 0 minu t e s in a 1 pe r c e n t so lu t 1o n of soda ash ; wash w e ll .

a gain an d dry
,
R e w e igh and t h e loss will r e pr e s e n t t he amoun t
.
,

of si z e and dr e ssing mat e ri als .

Expe ri m e n t 1 7 6 Co n di ti on i n g o f Te x ti l e Ma t e ri als
. By .

condi t ioning is m e an t t h e e st ima t ion of t he amoun t of moist ur e

pr e s e n t in a yarn or fabric and t h e subs e qu e n t c alcula t ion of
t h e amoun t of normally dry fibr e pr e s e n t in t h e sample Th e .

t e s t is usuall y c arri e d o u t by m e ans of a sp e ci ally cons t ruc t e d

c ondi t ioning ov e n wh e r e in t h e w e igh e d sampl e is h e at e d a t abou t

2 20
°
F un t il t h e mois t ur e i s compl e t e ly driv e n o u t
. Th e r e sidu e .

c onsis t s of bon e dry fibr e and t h e loss i s moist ur e

—
,
To t h e .

w e igh t of t h e dry r e sidu e is t h e n add e d t h e amoun t of mois t ur e

corr e sponding t o t hat normally pr e s e n t in t h e fibr e und e r e x a mi n
a t ion This amoun t is t e rm e d t h e r e gain
. and t hough t h e ,

s t and ar d vari e s in di ff e r e n t loc al i t i e s for Ame ric a i t m ay b e ,

t ak e n as follows

Fo r m a t e ri als o f w o o l 1 8 pe r ce nt .

Fo r m a t e ri als o f 83 pe r c e nt .

Fo k
r SII 1 1 p e r ce nt .

Wh e r e a sp e ci al condi t ioning ove n is available t h e moi st ur e

no t

t e st may be mad e on a small sampl e con t ai n e d in a w e ighing

3 1 6 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EM IS TR Y .

bo tt l e by h e at ing in an ordinary drying ov e n Th e t e s t is much .

mor e accura t e how e ve r wh e n a r e lat iv e ly larg e amoun t o f

, ,

mat e ri al is us e d .

Plac e 1 00 grams of wool e n yarn in t h e condi t ioning ove n and

h e at at 2 2 0 F un t il no fur t h e r loss in w e igh t occurs This
°
. .

will usually r e quir e 3 t o 4 hours No t e t h e loss in w e igh t For . .

e xampl e suppos e t his loss t o b e

,
grams ; t h e n
g
O ri i nal w i gh t
e . 1 00 . g
ra m s .

Lo ss a s m o i s t u re g
ra m s .

R e s i d ue as bo ne g
ra m s .

Add re g ai n, 8 pe r
1 ce nt . o f g
ra m s .

No rmal w g ei ht . g
ra ms .

He nc e , sampl e con t ain e d

t he p e r c e nt of condi t ion e d .
“

or normal wool .

R e p e at t h e t e s t using sample s of loos e wool wors t e d t ops raw

, , ,

co t t on co t t on yarn raw silk e t c and c al culat e t h e amoun t s o f

, , ,
.
,

condi t ione d fibr e in e ach case .

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 7 7 Es tim a ti o n o f Oil an d Gre as e i n Fa b ri cs

. .

For analy t ical purpose s t h e se subs t anc e s are b e s t e xt rac t e d by ,

m e ans of p e t rol e um e t h e r (ligroin ) in a Soxhle t e x t rac t ion

,

apparat us A w e igh e d quan t i t y (abou t I gram ) of t h e fabri c

.

t o b e t e s t e d is plac e d in t h e capsul e of t h e e x t rac t or ; pour 6 0 cc .

of p e t rol e um e t h e r in t he t ar e d flask of t h e app arat us Conn e c t .

t h e e x t rac t or wi t h i t s cond e ns e r and h e a t on a wa t e r b a t h -

,

r e gulat ing t h e t e mp e ra t ur e so t ha t t h e solv e n t siphons ov e r abou t

e v e ry 5 minu t e s Con t inu e t h e e x t rac t ion for 1 hour ; t h e n dis
.

conn e c t t h e e x t rac t or dist il o ff t h e solve n t dry t h e flask i n a

, ,

wat e r ov e n cool and finally r e w e igh Th e incr e ase in w e igh t

,
.

of t h e flask will r e pr e s e n t t h e amoun t of gr e ase and oil in t h e

fabric .

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 7 8 De t e c t i o n o f Mi n e ral Oil i n Te x tile F ab r i cs

. .

This oil is som e t im e s e mploy e d for t h e o i ling of s t ock and i s ,

som e t im e s di ffi cul t t o r e mov e by simpl e scouring if such oil is of ,

improp e r qu al i t y Ex t rac t abou t 1 0 g rams of t h e sampl e wi t h

.

5 0 cc of
. c arbon t e t rachlorid e in a S oxhl e t e x t rac t or D is t i l .

o ff t h e solv e n t ; mix t h e r e sidu e of gr e as e and oil wi t h wa t e r If .

31 8 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EM IS TR Y .

volum e of alcohol De x t rin or gums if pr e se n t will b e prec i p i

.
, ,

fa t e d .Th e s e may b e fil t e r e d o ff and id e n t ifi e d by burning .

(3 ) G e la t i n . To a por t ion of t h e e x t rac t add som e t annic

acid solu t ion which will give a pre cipi t at e in t h e pr e s e nc e of

,

g e lat in .

(4 ) S u g a r a n d g lu co se . Th e s e may b e d e t e c t e d by boiling a
por t ion of t h e e x t rac t wi t h a li t t l e dilu t e hydrochloric acid and ,

adding a fe w drops of F e hling s solu t ion wh e n a re d pr e cipi t a t e

’
,

of cuprous oxid e will b e form e d in t h e pr e s e nc e of a sugar .

(5 ) Ir i s h m o ss ( or o t h e r li ch e n j e lly ) may b e consid e r e d t o b e

pr e s e n t if an organic subs t anc e is known t o e xis t in t h e e x t rac t ,

and y e t no e vid e nc e of t h e for e going compounds i s found .

(6 ) C h l o r i d e s may b e d e t e c t e d by adding a f e w drops of ni t ric

acid t o t h e e x t rac t follow e d by a fe w drops of a solu t ion of silv e r
,

ni t rat e ; t h e format ion of a whi t e pr e cipi t a t e of silv e r chlorid e

will show t he pr e se nc e of chlorid e s .

(7 ) Z i n c may b e d e t e c t e d by adding ammonium sulphid e t o

t h e e x t rac t ; a whi t e pr e cipi t a t e of z inc sulphid e will indica t e t h e
pr e se nc e of t his m e t al .

( )
8 C a lc i u m may b e d e t e c t e d by adding ammonium ox al a t e

solu t ion t o a por t ion of t h e e x t rac t wh e n a whi t e pr e cipi t at e of cal

,

c i u m ox al a t e will b e form e d in t h e pr e s e nc e of calcium compounds .

(9 ) M a g n e s i u m may b e d e t e c t e d by adding a fe w drops of

ammoni a wat e r and ammonium chlorid e solu t ion t o a por t ion of
t h e e x t rac t fo llow e d by t h e addi t ion of sodium phospha t e solu t ion
, .

Th e format ion of a whi t e crys t allin e pr e cipi t at e of magn e s i um

,

ammonium phosphat e will indicat e t he pre s e nc e of magn e sium

sal t s .

( )
I o S u l p h a t e
,
s which may a t t im e s b e pr e s e n t as magn e sium
sulphat e (Epsom s s al t s ) may b e d e t e c t e d by adding a fe w drops
’
,

of hydrochloric acid t o a por t ion of t h e e x t rac t follow e d by t he ,

addi t ion of a fe w drops of a solu t ion of b arium chlorid e Th e .

format ion of a whi t e pr e cipi t at e of b arium sulphat e will indicat e

t h e pr e s e nc e of sulpha t e s .

( )
1 1 R e s i n s , f a t s ,
a n d o i l s may b e fe s t e d for by t h e m e t hods
alr e ady give n in t he pr e c e ding e xp e rim e n t s .
 AN ALYS IS O F TEX TILE F AB RICS .
319

( )
1 2 Chi na y ( cla
aluminium silica t e ) gy p s u m (c
,
al cium sul
phat e ) and ta lc (magn e sium silicat e ) are insolubl e e ve n in
, ,

s t rong acids and may b e found in t h e ash l e ft from t h e igni t ion

,

of a por t ion of t h e fabric aft e r firs t boiling in wat e r t o r e move all

,

solubl e mat t e rs It will hardly b e n e c e ssary h e re t o discriminat e

.

b e t w e e n t h e s e t hr e e subs t anc e s t h e ms e lv e s as such an analysis ,

would b e bo t h t e dious and complicat e d .

Ex pe ri m e n t 1 8 2 De t e rm i n a ti o n of t h e Na t ur e o f Mor d an t s o n
.

Woole n F ab ri cs —
To d e t e rmin e t h e charac t e r of t h e mordan t
.

which may b e pr e se n t in a yarn or fabric a qu al i t a t ive analysis of ,

t h e ash mus t b e mad e For t his purpos e t ak e abou t 1 0 grams

.
,

of t h e clippings of t h e sampl e and igni t e in small por t ions at a ,

t im e t horoughly in a porc e lain crucibl e un t il all t h e carbon

,

and volat il e mat t e rs hav e b e e n burn e d away Th e di ffe r e n t .

mordan t s are t h e n t e s t e d for in t h e following mann e r :

( )
I A l u m i n i u m co m p o u n ds —
T h e .ash should b e whi t e or ,

grayish Dissolve a por t ion in warm hydrochloric acid and

.
,

n e u t rali ze t he solu t ion wi t h a S ligh t e xc e ss of ammonia A whi t e .

pre cipi t at e of aluminium hydrat e w ill indicat e t h e pr e s e nc e of

aluminium This S hould b e con fi rm e d by h e at ing a port ion of
.

t h e ash on charcoal mois t e ning wi t h a drop of cob al t ni t ra t e

,

solu t ion ; a blu e color w i ll b e ob t ain e d if aluminium is pre s e n t .

( 2 ) T i n c o m p o u n d s T h e ash . i s also whi t e or grayish .

Dissolve in boiling hydrochloric acid and t e s t a por t ion of ,

t h e solu t ion wi t h sulphur e tt e d hydrog e n gas Th e format ion .

of a brownish y e llow pr e cipi t at e will indicat e t he pr e s e nc e

of t i n .

(3 ) Iro n co m p o u n ds — T h e ash . is r e ddish brown in color .

Dissolv e in warm hydrochloric acid To a por t ion of t he solu t ion

.

add a drop of ni t r ic acid and a fe w drops of a solu t ion of po t as

sium fe rrocyanid e (y e llow prussi at e ) Th e format ion of a blu e .

pr e cipi t at e will indica t e t he pr e s e nc e of iron This may b e fur t h e r .

confirm e d by t aking ano t h e r por t ion of t h e solu t ion adding a ,

drop of ni t ric acid and a fe w drops of a solu t ion of po t assium

,

sulphocyanid e Th e format ion of a re d color indicat e s t h e pr e s

.

e nc e of iron .
3 0
2 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE C H EM IS TR Y .

(4 ) Ch ro mi u m co mp o u nds
ash is
. y e Th e
llowish or brownish
gr e e n Add a fe w crys t als of po t assium chlora t e and fus e
. .

Th e r e sul t ing y e llowish mass is dissolv e d in wat e r ; a fe w drops

of ac e t ic acid a re add e d and also a solu t ion of l e ad ac e t a t e
, .

A y e llow pr e cipi t at e of l e ad chromat e will indicat e t he pr e s e nc e

of chromium .

(5) C o pp e r co mp o u n ds T h e ash. may b e browni sh or black .

Dissolve in warm hydroc h loric acid n e u t rali z e wi t h an e xc e ss ,

of ammonia wat e r wh e n t h e format ion of a blu e color wi ll

,

indicat e t h e pr e s e nc e of copp e r .

In som e c ase s s e ve r al of t h e s e m e t als may occur t og e t h e r

,

in t h e ash of t he fabric In ord e r t o conduc t a syst e mat ic t e s t

.

for all of t h e m proc e e d in t h e following mann e r

B oil up t h e ash w i t h a li t t l e conc e n t ra t e d h yd ro c t r i c acid ,

and fil t e r from any insolubl e r e sidu e To t h e dilu t e d fil t ra t e add

.

hydrog e n sulphid e un t il no fur t h e r pr e cipi t at ion occurs A .

pr e cipi t at e will indica t e t he pr e s e nc e of copp e r or t i n (consis t ing

of black copp e r sulphid e or brown t i n sulphid e ) F i l t e r wash t h e .
,

pr e cipi t at e and t r e at wi t h warm ammonium sulphid e solu t ion

,
.

This wi ll dissolv e any t i n sulphid e and l e av e t h e copp e r sulphid e

as a re sidu e F i l t e r t h e la t t e r , if pr e se n t ; dissolve t h e r e sidu e
.

in a small quan t i t y of s t rong ni t ric acid ; dilu t e wi t h wat e r and

add sligh t e xc e ss of ammoni a wh e n t he forma t ion of a blu e
,

color will indica t e t h e pr e s e nc e of co ppe r Ti n if pr e s e n t i n t h e .

,

last fil t rat e may b e id e n t ifi e d by adding sligh t e xc e ss of hydro

,

chloric acid and boiling t ill all odor of hydrog e n sulphid e is gon e .

Th e solu t ion would now con t ain s t annous chlorid e ; fil t e r and ,

pour in t o a h o t solu t ion of m e rcuric chlorid e ; a whi t e pr e cipi t at e

of m e rcurous chlorid e w i ll ind i cat e t h e pr e s e nc e of ti n Th e .

fil t rat e from t h e pr e c i pi t at e d sulphid e s of copp e r and t i n is boil e d

un t il all odor of hydroge n sulphid e is r e mov e d Add a fe w .

drops of conc e n t rat e d ni t ric acid and boil for a fe w minu t e s long e r .

Add a sligh t e xc e ss of ammoni a wat e r and boil again ; t his will

cause t h e pr e cipi t at ion of any iron c hro m i u m uo r aluminium as
,

hydrat e s Fil t e r and wash t h e r e sidu e Th e n boil up wi t h a

.
, .

solu t ion of po t assium hydra t e which will dissolv e o u t any alu

 22 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EM IS TR Y .

sp e c i fic colors Th e various mordan t s may b e d e t e c t e d as

.

follows
( ) Ta nni n
I A sampl e of t h e fabric is boil e d in a dilu t e
.
-

solu t i on of soda ash for 2 0 minu t e s ; t h e solu t ion is t h e n pour e d

o ff and almos t n e u t rali ze d wi t h hydrochloric acid A fe w .

drops of fe rric chlorid e solu t ion are n e x t add e d wh e n t h e forma ,

t ion of a black color (d u e t o t anna t e of iron ) wi ll indica t e t h e

pr e s e nc e of t annin .

( )
2 A n t i mo ny
—
A sampl e of t h e fabric is boil e d for 1 5
minu t e s wi t h conc e n t ra t e d hydrochloric acid Th e solu t ion.

is fil t e r e d and dilu t e d wi t h wa t e r A por t ion of t h e fil t ra t e i s

.

t h e n t r e a t e d wi t h hydrog e n sulphid e wh e n t h e forma t ion of a

,

y e llow (or orange ) pre cipi t a t e (of an t imony sulphid e ) will i n

di c at e t h e pr e s e nc e of an t imony To confirm t hi s how e v e r t h e
.
, ,

an t imony sulphid e is fil t e r e d o ff an d dissolve d in a li t t l e h o t

conc e n t ra t e d hydrochloric acid Dilu t e wi t h wa t e r and add
.
,

t o t h e solu t ion a pi e c e of z inc on pla t inum foil If a black s t ain

.

forms on t h e plat inum t h e pr e s e nc e of an t imony is con fi rm e d

,
.

( )
3 I r o n . A por t ion of t h e hydrochloric acid e x t rac t ob t ain e d
abov e is t e s t e d wi t h a fe w drops of po t assium fe rrocyanid e solu
t ion . Th e forma t ion of a blu e color will indica t e t h e pr e s e nc e
of i ron .

(4 ) C pp e
o r —
Ano t h e r por t ion of t h e sam e acid solu t ion a s
.

abov e is n e u t rali z e d wi t h an e xc e ss of ammoni a wa t e r The .

"

format ion of a blu e color in t h e liquid w i ll indica t e t h e pr e s e nc e

of copp e r .

In cas e t h e fabric is susp e c t e d t o hav e b e e n dy e d wi t h al i z arin

colors (Turk e y re d t a nni n may b e t e s t e d for in t h e mann e r
-
,

giv e n abov e Alu mi ni u m i ro n ch ro mi u m and t i n mord an t s

.
, , ,

may b e look e d for according t o t h e m e t hods give n in Exp .

1 81 . F a tty a ci ds may b e t e s t e d for by firs t boiling t h e sampl e

wi t h dilu t e hydrochloric acid (t o d e compose t h e fat t y acid com
pounds of t h e m e t allic mordan t s ) and t h e n e x t rac t ing wi t h :

p e t rol e u m e t h e r and t e st ing as in Exp -1 7 6 .

Wh e n i t is susp e c t e d t hat t h e sample is dy e d wi t h acid colors

( w h i ch may usua lly b e t old by t h e color no t b e ing a t all fas t t o
 AN AL YS IS O F TEX TILE F AB RICS . 2
3 3

so ap and wat e r ) and i t is d e sir e d t o id e n t ify t h e mordan t s us e d

, ,

t hos e of a lu mi ni u m t a nni n fa tt y a ci d and ti n may b e d e t e c t e d , , ,

as give n abov e .

(5 ) Le a d T h e sampl e is boil e d for.2 0 minu t e s in c o nc e n

t r at e d ni t ric acid Dilu t e t h e solu t ion and fil t e r To a por t ion

.
, .

of t h e fil t rat e add a fe w drops of a solu t ion of po t assium chromat e ,

wh e n t h e format ion of a y e llow pr e cipi t at e of l e ad chromat e wi ll

indicat e t h e pr e s e nc e of l e ad .

Q U IZ 28 .

771 . Wh at i s m e a nt by t h e si zi n g a nd d re ssi n g mat e ri als o n a fa b ri c ?

Ho w may t he a mo u nt o f t h e se b e e st i m at e d ?
7 72 Wh at i s me ant by “
co ndi ti o ni n g ”
? Wh at i s t he meani ng o f “
no rm al

fib re a nd
“
b o ne -
d ry
”
fib re ?
7 73 . Ho w i s t h e co ndi t i o ni n gt e st u sua ll ym a de ? Wh at is u nde rs t o o d by
the g in
“
re a
”
? Wh at i s t he cu s t o mar y g re a i n allo w ed fo r w o o le n , co tt o n, a nd

s i lk f b i ? a r cs

774 g
. If w 1 00y g ra m s b fib h w
pf o o le n a rn i ve 84 gra ms o f o e dry
n -
re , o

m h n m l fib d
uc o r it nt i n ?
a re o es co a

7 7 5 A h i p m nt f
. s p nd f w t d t p i bill d n b i f
e o o u s o o rs e o s s e o a as s o

1 8 p nt g in ; wh t w ld b t h ndi t i n d w i gh t ll w d i f t t
e r ce . re a a o u e e co o e e a o e a es

s h w d th p
o e n f 6 p e nt fm i t
re se ? ce o 1 e r ce . o o s u re

776 A fi m b y .
5 p d r f w il k t u p p
s 1 1 2 n d w i th p o un s o ra s a er o u 1 1 er

ce nt g in Th ndi t i ni ng t t gi
. re a .
3p nt
e co fm i t ; wh t w o es ve s 1 2 e r ce . o o s u re a as

th e am nt f t h b i ll ?
o u o e

777 A t t n m i ll m n f t
. co o p nd f tt n y n p m nth a u a c u re s o u s o co o ar er o

a t g lli ng p i f 38 nt p p d Thi y n w h n ld
a n a v e ra e se r ce o ce s er o un . s ar e so aver

g
a es p nt m i t e r ceA t t h d f th y . t h mill h w
o s u re l f . e en o e e ar e s o s a o ss o

$ 5 1 2, Th m ill t h n d m p n i t y n
00 . e th t it nt i n 8 p e nt m i t a e s s ar so a co a s e r ce . o s u re .

Wh t p fit h l d t h m ill h w t t h nd f t h
a ro s o u d y ?e s o a e e o e se co n ea r

7 7 8 H w i th . m nt f il nd g
o i n f b i d t mi n d ? D
s e a o u ib o o a re a se a a r c e er e e s cr e

th e op t i n f t t i n i n S hl t pp t
e ra o o e x ra c o a ox e a ara u s .

779 H w i th p. n o f min l il i n
s f b i d t t d?
e re se ce o a e ra o a a r c e ec e

78 Wh t i0 . in il ? H w i t h p a n f
s a re s h d t t d in f b i ?
o o s e re se ce o su c e ec e a r cs

H w i th p
o sn f i n i t lf h wn ?
e re se ce o re s se s o

78 H w w ld y
1 . oti m t th t t l m o unt f mi n l m tt
o u es p nt a e e o a a o u o e ra a er re se

i n t ti l f b i ?
a ex e a r c

7 8 2 Wh t th
. h i f m d nt li b l t
a a re cu i n w l n g d ? Wh t
e c e o r a s a e o o c r o o e o o s a

m d nt yi ld w h i t
or a s h n i gni t i n ?
e a e as o o

7 83 Gi th m th d f
. t t i ng f
ve l mi ni m e mp n d
e no w ln o r es o r a u u co o u s o a oo e

f b i
a F r ch r mi m
r c . F o ti n o u . o r .
3 24 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EMIS TR Y .

7 84 . Su pp o se a sa m pl
e o f w oo le n clo t h co n ta i ne d i ro n a nd a lu mi ni um

m o rda nt s ; h o w w o uld y o u Sh o w th eir p re se n ce ?

7 85 . If i ro n , a lu mi ni u m , a nd co pp e r co m p o u nd s w e re p re se nt in a w oo le n
fa bi r c, ho w w o uld yo u co n d u ct t he y ?
a na l s i s

7 86 . Na m e t h e p in i p
r c al in g re d i e nt s wh i h m
c ay be p re se nt i n t he si z i n g o f
a t e xt ile fa bi r c .

7 87 . Whi ch o f t he co m mo n siz i n g i ngre di e nt s a re so b

lu le i n w a te r a nd

whi ch a re no t?

7 88 . G i ve m e t ho d s fo r t h e d e t e ct io n o f t h e fo llo wi ng su b st a nce s i n t he
s i zi n g o f fa b ri cs :

St arch G e la t i n
Dext ri n Su g ar

Ch i na cla y Ca lci u m c h lo ri d e

7 89 . Wh at a re t he ch i e f mo rda nts li k ly t
e o be p re se nt in co t t o n fa b ri cs ?
7 90 . Ho w w o uld yo u s ho w t he p re se nce o f ta nni n m o rda nt o n a co t to n
fa b ri c ? O f a nt i m o n ? y O f i ro n? O f fa t ty a cid s ?
79 1 . Ho w w o ul d yo u S h o w t he p re se nce o f lea d co m po u nd s in a co tt o n
fa bi r c?
3 2 6 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EMIS TR Y .

CO M PARISO N B E T WEEN PE CIFIC

THE S G RAVIT Y B EAUME AND T WADDLE
B Tw . B . Sp .
gr .

5 8 3 2 .
A
- I 290
O
59 32 O . I 0 29 5
o
33 o
33 x
x
H 30 5
.

34 u c H 31 0
.

4 ~o H 31 5
3 .

35 o ° H 3 20
.

3S ;
~4 H 32 5
.

0
35 0 H 3 30
.

36 o . t H 83 5
!O
‘ \

c
. O H 340
.

H 34 5
0

H 350
.

H~3 5 5
H 3 60
.

H 3 65
.

H 3 70
.

H 375
0

H 3 80
.

H 3 85
.

H 39 0
.

H-3 9 5
H .
40 0
H 40 5
.

H 41 0
.

H .
41 5
H 4 20
.

H 425
.

H 4 30
.

H-4 3 5
H .
44 0
H- 44 5
H 4 50
.

H-4 5 5
H 4 60
.

H 4 65
.

H 4 70
.

H 475
.

H 4 80
.

H 4 85
.

H 490
.

H 49 5
.

H .
5 00

H 50 5
.

H 51 0
.

H 51 5
.

H 520
.

H 525
.

H 5 30
H 535
H 5 40
.

H-5 4 5
H 5 50
.

H~ 5 55
H 5 60
.

H 5 65
H 5 70
.
 AP P EN D IX .
3 7
2

d e nsi t y t han corr e sponding d e gr e e s Twaddl e The t abl e on t he .

pre vious pag e shows t h e e quiv ale nc e b e t w e e n sp e ci fi c gravi t y ,

d e gr e e s Twaddl e and d e gr e e s B e aum e

,
.

A solu t ion of a c e r t ain d e nsi t y may b e dilu t e d wi t h wat e r

( d e nsi t y t o a solu t ion of ano t h e r sp e ci fi e d d e nsi t y in accord
anc e wi t h t h e following formula :
Le t V volum e of s t rong solu t ion ,

v volum e of wat e r t o b e add e d ,

D d e n si t y of s t rong solu t ion (in sp e ci fi c gravi t y ) ,

d = d e nsi t y of dilu t e d solu t ion (in sp e ci fic gravi t y ) .

D d
Th e n v V X
d 1

If t h e d e nsi t i e s ar e e xpr e ss e d in d e gr e e s Twaddl e , t he formula

b e com e s : T t
v V X
t

wh e r e T = d e nsi t y of s t rong solu t ion in d e gr e e s Twaddl e .

t d e nsi t y of dilu t e d solu t ion in d e gr e e s Twaddl e .

E X A MPLE — Ho w much wa t e r would i t b e n e c e ssary to add

to 1 00cc of a solu t ion of sulphuric acid of
. sp . gr . to giv e a
solu t ion of s p gr ? . .

v = 1 00 >< — 6 00 cc .

Ho w much wat e r mus t b e add e d t o 1 li t r e of a solu t ion of caus t ic

soda of 9 0 Tw t o r e duc e i t t o 3 5 Tw ?
°
.
°
.

9 0 35 li t r e s
v

1 57 1 cc .

2. Equi v alents o f Co mmo n Use i n Meas u ri ng In all sci e n t i fi c .

and accurat e work t h e m e t ric sys t e m of w e igh t s and m e asur e s i s

univ e rsally e mploy e d It is pr e sum e d t hat t h e s t ud e n t is famili ar
.

in a g e n e ral way wi t h t he m e t hod and v al u e s of t he m e t ric sys t e m ,

b u t his a t t e n t ion is c all e d at t his poin t t o following e quival e n t s ,

bo t h of t h e m e t ric sys t e m and t he common E nglish syst e m which ,

wi ll b e found us e ful and prac t ic al for r e fe r e nc e .

3 2 8 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EMIS TR Y .

1 li t re (L) 1 000 c u bi c ce nt i m e t re s

1 li t rew t w i gh s k il g m (kil )
o f a er e 1 o ra o .

1 f w t
cc . o w i gh g m a er e s 1 ra

1 bi f t f w t w i gh 6 5 p nds
cu c o o o a er e s 2 . o u .

g m
1 ra mi lli g m 1 000 ra s

k il g m
1 o ra g m p nds
1 000 ra s o u .

p nd (A i )
1 o u g mvo r . ra s .

g ll (U S ) 3 b i i n h
1 a o n . . 2 1 cu c c es .

g ll n w t
1 a o 8 3 p nd a er . o u s .

p i nt w t
1 p nd ( pp i m t ly)
a er 1 o u a ro x a e .

li t
1 re q t ( pp i m t ly)
1 u ar a ro x a e .

T o n co t f t t m t
ve r m lt i p ly by 3
ee o e re s u 0 . .

M t t f t m lt i ply by
e re s o ee u

C b i f t t g ll n m lt i ply by 7 5
u c ee o a o s u . .

G ll n t a b i f t m lt i ply by
o s o cu c ee u

C b i f t t li t
u c m lt i ply by
ee o re s u

Li t t b i f t m lt iply by
res o cu c ee u

In h t c nt i m t
es m lti ply by 5
o ce e e rs u 2 . .

C tim t en t i h m lt i ply by
e e rs o nc e s u

O n t g m m lt i ply by
u ces o ra s u

G m t ra n m lt i ply by
s o o u ces u

G i t g m m lt i p ly by
ra ns o ra s u

G m t g i ra m lt i p ly by
s o r a ns u

Y d t m t ar sm lt i p ly by
o e res u

M t t y d m lt i ply by
e r es o ar s u

Q t t li
u ar s t m lt i p ly by
o re s u

L it t q re s t m lt i ply by
o u ar s u

G ll n t li t
a o m lt i ply by
s o re s u

Lit t g ll n m lt i ply by
res o a o s u

An E gli h (Imp i l) g ll n i l g t h n t h o s ar e r a e Uni t e d St at e s g ll

a o n
°

n s er a a

t in
co n a 7 7}
s 2 b i i n h cu li t ; i
c t nt i n c es res co a s 10 p o u nd s o f w t
a er .

CO N VERSIO N OF K ILO G RAM S IN OT P O U N DS .

Ki l o s . Ki l o s . Ki l os . Ki lo s .
3 30 D YEIN G AN D TEX TIL E CH EMIS TR Y .

3 . Th e rm o
m e t ry . Comparison of Ce n t igrad e Th e rmom e t e r
wi t h Fahre nh e i t .

To c o n v e rt de g re e s Ce nt i g
r ade to d e gre e s Fa h re nh e i t

(C X 9) a nd a dd
°
°
5 3 2 F .

To co nv e rt d e gre e s F a h re nh e i t t o d e g re e s Ce nt i g ra d e

(F 3 2) X 5
°

4 . Co m pa ri s o n of R e la ti v e S tre ng t h s o f Ch e m i cal s .

1 00 p a rt s by w i gh te o f s al s o da a re e qu i va le nt to 3 7 p a rt s o f s oda as h .

1 00 p a rt s o f s o da as h a re e q ui v ale nt to 2 70 p a rt s o f s al s o da .

1 00 p f crys ta lli zed gla ub ers alt

a rt s o a re e q ui valent t o 44 p a rt s o f calci ned

gla u b ers alt .

1 00 p f calci ned glaub ers alt

a rt s o are e qui vale nt to 227 pa t s
r o f crys talli zed
g laub ersalt .
 AP P EN D IX .
33 I

1 00 p a rt s o f a lum a re e q u i va le nt in d y i ng
e v a lue t o 60 p a rt s o f alu mi ni um
s ul pha te .

1 00 p a rt s o f alu mi ni u m su lph a te a re e q u i v ale nt to 1 70 pa rt s o f alu m .

1 00 p a rt s o f s u lphu ri c aci d 1 68 T
°
w . co rre s p o nd to 2 20 p a rt s hydr o chlo ri c
aci d 32
,
°
Tw . a nd t o 400
9 T w p art s aceti c a ci d
°
.

1 00 p
art s o f h ydro chlo r i c a cid 3 2 Tw co rr e s o nd t o 4 5
°
. p p a rt s o f s u lphu ri c
a cid 1 68 Tw , a nd t o 1 7 5
°
a rt s o f aceti c aci d 9 Tw
.
°
p .

1 00 p
art s o f aceti c a ci d 9 Tw co rre s o n d t o 2 6
°
a rt s . p p o f sul ph u ri c aci d

1 6 8 Tw
°
.
,
a nd to 5 7 p art s o f hydro chlo ri c a ci d
3 2
°
Tw .

1 00 p art s o f crys talli zed s o di u m s ul ph id e a re e qu i vale nt to 50 p a rt s o f

co ncen tra ted so di u m s ul phi d e .

1 00 pa rt s o f co ncentra ted s o di u m s u l ph i de a re e qu i v ale nt t o 2 00 p a rt s o f t he

5 . Tab le s Sh o wi ng t h e Stre ngth s an d De ns i ti es o f Vari o u s

So l u ti o ns .

SU L P H U R IC ACID .

At 6 0 °
F (1 5
.
°

S u lp h u ri c a c i d o f p e r c e nt . g
h as t h e h i h e s t d e ns i t y . wh i ls t t h a t o f t h e s t ro n g er
g y
a c i d i s s li h t l lo we r .
 3 3 2 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EMIS TR Y .

R
H Y D O CH LO RIC ACID .

At 6 0 °
F .

b
Fro m t hi s t a le i t wi ll b e se e n t h a t t h e d e gre e T w a ddle i nd i c a t e s a pp ro xi m a t e ly
t he pe r ce nt a ge o y
f h d r o c hlo ri c aci d in the so lu t i o n .

ACE T IC ACID .

At 6 0 °
F .

Pe r c e nt Pe r c e nt

A i A i
. .

ce t c De g Tw ce t c De g Tw
A id A id
. . . .

c . c .

Th e d e nsi t i e s a b o ve 1 1
°
Tw . c o rre s po nd t o t wo li qu i d s o f di fie re nt s t re n gt h s .

To d e t e rm i ne if t h e so lu t i o n co rre s o nd s t o t h e s t ro p g
n er o r the w k
ea er a ci d , a .

s m a ll q u a n t i t y
o f w
a t e r i s a dd e d , a nd t h e d e ns i t is a y g ai n m e as u re d . If t h e d e n
si t y i ncre ase s o n ad d i t i o n o f w at e r t h e a c i d i s t h e st ro nge r ; wh e re as i f i t dim i n
i sh e s t h e a ci d i s th e w e ak e r .
3 34 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EM IS TR Y .

G LAU B ER S ALT .

At 6 6 °
F .

Sp .
gn Sp g n. Sp g n . Sp g n
.

p g
Th e e r ce nt a e o f d e s i c ca t e d ( o r c a lc i ne d ) gla u b e rs a lt , N aa SO , , m a y b e o t a i ne d b
by py g b p y
m u lt i l i n t h e a o ve e rce nt age s o f c r s ta lli ze d glau b e rs a lt t he fac t o r by
CO MM O N S AL T (SO DIU M CHLO RIDE ) .

At 6 0 °
F .

Sp .
gr . Sp .
gr .

T A NNIC ACID .

At 6 0 °
F .

ce n t .

Sp .
gr . Sp .
gr . Sp .
gr . Sp gr .

A cid .
 AP P EN D IX .
335

B LEACHING P O WDE R ( CH LO RIDE OF LIME ) .

At 6 0 °
F .

P R O P O R T IO NS L RINE IN WEA K
O F CH O T
S O LU IO NS
OF B LEACH ING P O WD ER .

De g Tw
. .
33 6 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EMIS TR Y .

6 .
-
Ta b le s fo r Calcula ti o ns i n Dy e i n g .

P ER CE NT AG E O F DY E S T UFF CO RRE S P O NDING TO G RAMS P ER 1 00 KILO S ,

AN D P O UNDS P ER 1 00 P O UN DS O F GO O DS .

Pe r Per 1 00 Pe r Fe r ro o
Pe r 1 00 lb s Pe r 1 00 lb s . Pe r 1 0 0 lb s
k l lO
. .

ce n t . . c e nt . k Ilo .

1b . o z .

1 lb . 1 6 o z 7 000 gr ai n s
.
4 5 4 gr am s .

1 o z .
4 3 7 3 gr ai ns gr a ms .

1 gram g r ai ns .
3 38 D Y EIN G AN D TEX TILE C H EM IS TR Y .

CO M P ARISO N O F DY E— T E STS .
-
Co n t i nu e d .

Eq u i v a le n t pe r
1 00 lb s . 1 00 lb s .
 AP P EN DIX .
39

RE DUCT IO N OF G RAMS TO O U NC S E P ER 1 00 LB S . GO O DS .

Gra m s . G r a ms . G ra m s .

T0 u se any numb e r of grams p e r 1 0 0 pounds of goods dissolve ,

t h e corr e sponding numb e r of ounc e s in abov e t abl e in 1 0 gallons

of wat e r and u se 1 gallon of t his solu t ion pe r 1 00 pounds goods
,
.

F OR EX AMPLE To u se 4 2 grams of dy e s t u ff pe r 1 00 pounds

.

goods :
3 0 grams ounc e s
1 0 grams ounc e s
2 grams ounc s
7 1 e .

4 2 grams ounc e s

Th e r e for e dissolve
,
ounc e s of dy e s t u ff in 1 0 gallons of wat e r
and u se 1 gallon of t h e solu t ion .

To D ete rmi ne t he Ca p a ci ty of a Recta ngu la r Va t M ul t i ply.

t h e l e ng t h by t h e br e ad t h by t h e d e p t h in f e e t t o ob t ain t h e cub i c

con t e n t s ; t h e n mul t iply t his numb e r by 7 3 ; t o ob t ain t h e capaci t y

in gallons (Uni t e d St at e s ) .

O r mul t iply t h e l e ng t h by t h e br e ad t h by t h e d e p t h in inch e s

, ,

and divid e t h e r e sult by 2 3 1 t o ob t ain t h e capaci t y in g al lons .

To D ete rmi ne t he Ca p aci ty of a R o u nd Va t M ul t iply t he

.

diam e t e r in fe e t by i t s e lf ; mult iply t h e r e sul t by t h e fac t or

and t h e n by t h e d e p t h in fe e t ; finally mul t iply t his r e sul t by 7 ; t o 1 7

o b t ain t h e capaci t y in gallons .

O r mul t iply t h e di am e t e r in inch e s by i t s e lf t h e n mul t i ply by

, ,

and t h e n by t h e d e p t h in inch e s Divid e t h e r e sul t by

.

2 1 to ob t ain t h e capaci t y in gallons

3 .
34 0 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EM IS TR Y .

RE DUCTIO N OF G RAM S P ER KILO G RAM O F GOO DS TO O UNC S E

P ER 1 00 P O UNDS O F GO O DS .

per 1 00

To co n v e r t g ra m s
pe r ki l
o . i nt o o u n ce s pe r 1 00 lb s .
,
p y by t h
m u lt i l e fa c t o r

RE DUCTIO N O F F RACTIO N AL P ERCE NT AG E S TO O U NC E S P ER 1 00 P O UNDS

O F GO O DS .
34 2 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EMIS TR Y .

RE DUCTIO N OF L IT RE S P ER KILO G RAM OF GOO DS TO G ALLO NS P ER

1 00 P O UNDS OF GO O DS .

Li t re s

RE DUCT IO N OF G RAMS P ER LIT RE TO O UNCES P ER G AL LO N .

O u nc e s p e r Gra m s p er O u n cas p e r Gra m s p e r O u n c e s p e r

ga llo n . li t re . g a llo n. li t re. g
a llo n .

To c o nv ert gr a ms pe r li t re i n t o o u nces pe r gal lo n, m u lt i p l y by t h e fa c t o r

 AP P EN D IX .
34 3

P ERCE NT AG E T A B LE S .

c ent
Fo r 1 0 p o u nd s . Fo r 5 0 po u nd s . Fo r 1 00 po u nd s ,

7 o z 403 g rai ns

3 68 g
.

7 o z . r a i ns

7 o z .
3 33 gr a i ns
7 o z .
9 gra i ns
2 8

7 o z . 26
3 g r a i ns

H o z 22 1 g r a i ns 7 o z 2 28
gr a i ns
“

4 g
. .

H o z 21 r a i ns 7 o z 1 9 3 gr a i ns

g
. .

H o z . 20
7 gr a i ns 7 o z . 1 58 r a i ns

H o z, 200
gr a i ns 7 o z . 1 2 3 gr a i ns

1 o z .
7 o z . 88 g r ai ns 1 4 o z .

7 o z .
53 g ra i ns

7 o z 18 g r a i ns

g
.

6 o z .
4 20 r ai ns

6 o z .
3 85 gr ai ns

1 o z . 6 o z .
3 5 0 gr a i ns 1 3 o z .

6 o z .
3 1 5 gr ai ns 1 3 o z . 1 93 g r a i ns
6 o z 2 80
gr ai ns 13 o z 1 2 3 g r a i ns

g
.

53 g
.

6 o z 245 r a i ns 1 3 o z r a i ns
g
. .

6 o z . 21 0 r ai ns 1 2 o z .
4 2 0 gr ai ns

1 o z . 1 2 o z .
350 gra i ns

1 2 o z . 2 80 gr a i ns
1 2 o z 21 0
gr ai ns

g
.

1 2 o z . 1 40 r a i ns
1 2 o z 7 0 r a i ns
.
g

3 68 gr a i ns
‘

1 1 o z .

29 8
1 1 o z
gr a i ns
g
.

1 1 o z 2 28 r a i ns
g
.

1 1 o z . 1 58 r a i ns

1 o z .
53 g r ai ns 1 1 o z . 88 g r a i ns
3 44 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EMIS TR Y .

P ERCE NT AG E T AB L ES .

c e nt
Fo r 1 0 p o u n ds . Fo r 5 0 po u nd s . Fo r 1 00 p o u nds .

I I OZ . 8 gr ai ns
1

1 0 OZ . 8
3 5 gr ai ns
IO O Z .
3 1 5 grai ns
IO O Z . 24
5 gr a i ns

I OZ . IO O Z . 1 7 5 gr a i ns

10 o z . 10 5 gr ains
10 o z .
3 S 813 3115
9 o z .
4 0 3 gra m s
9 o z .
333 gr am s

9 o z . 26
3 gra i ns

9 o z . 1 93 gr a i ns

9 o z . 1 2 3 gr a i ns

9 o z .
5 3 gr a i ns
8 o z .
42 0 gr ai ns

4 o z .

o z
3 .

21 0 gr a i n s 4 o z .
3 5 0 gr a i ns
3 4 6 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EM IS TR Y .

T A B LE S H O WING AM O UNTS O F S O DIUM NIT RIT E ACID

TH E , . AND
D E V E LO P ER RE QUIRE D F O R DIAZ O T IZ ING .

So d i u m n i t ri t e .

Per ce n t .

Th e s e fi gur e s suppos e d t o b e in e xac t ch e mical propor

ar e no t

t ion b u t for pr ac t ical r e asons a su ffi ci e n t e xc e ss of d e v e lop e r i s

,

pr e scrib e d G ood r e sul t s are t o b e ob t ain e d from t h e s e quan t i t i e s

.

only wh e n t h e propor t ion of dy e d mat e ri al t o wa t e r is 1 1 5 .

T A B LE OF A T O MIC W E IG H TS OF P RINCIP AL ELEME NTS .

O 1 6 .

El m e e nt . At . wt . El m
e e nt . At . wt .

Alu m i ni u m
Anti m o n y
Arse ni c .

B a ri u m
B i sm u th
B o ro n
B ro m i ne
Ca dm i u m
Ca lci u m
b
Ca r o n
Ce ri u m

Ch ro m i um
b
Co alt
p
Co pe r
Flu o ri ne
G o ld
 AP P EN D IX .
34 7

T A B LE OF F O RM U LA M O LE CU LAR WE IG H TS
AN D OF P RINCIP AL
CH EM ICA LS U S E D IN D Y E ING .

Na m e . F o rm u la . Mo l . wt .

Ace t a t e o f a lu m i n a .

Ace t a t e o f a mm o ni a
Ace t a t e o f c h ro m e ( as i c) b .

Ac e t a t e o f c h ro m e ( no rm a l) .

Ac e t a t e f ni c
o k el .

Ace t a t e o f

Ace t a t e o f t i n
Ace t i c a cid

Ac i d s o d i u m s u l h a t e p
p
.

Ac i d s o d i u m s u l h i t e .

Alc o h o l
p
Al h a —na ph t h y la mm e Cw H2
A12 ( S O 4) 3 K 28 0 4 24 H20
Alu m i m u m c h lo ri d e
p
.

Alu m i ni u m su l h o -a ce t a t e h AC Ha
Am m o ni a gi z

:
.

Am m o ni u m c hlo ri d e N H Cl
Am m o ni u m t i n c h lo ri d e . SnCl4 . 2 N H4 C1
Am m o ni u m v a na d a t e (N H4) 3V0 4
Ani li ne . C6 H 5 N
Ani li ne s alt C6 H 5 N H2 H Cl
y
Ant i m o n fl u o ri d e Sb F3
y
Ant i m o n o xi d e s O3
Ant i m o n s a lt y
y
.

Ant im o n s o di u m flu o ri d e Sb FaN a F
B a ri u m c h lo ri d e . B a Cl2 2 ILO
HO
p
G
B e t a -n a h t h o l . C1 0H 7 OH
B i c h ro m a t e o f s o d a 2 H 20
B
B

C a lci u m c h lo ri d e
Ca u s t i c li m e
Ca u s t i c s o d a

Ce ri u m c hlo ri d e
Ch a l k . C a CO 3
Ch lo r at e o f a lu m i na A12 ( C10 3) 6
Ch lo ri d e o f c h ro m e ( b as i c ) CI2C12( O H) 4
‘

Ch lo ra t e o f o t as h p K ClO 3
N a ClO 3
Ch r o m a t e o f c h ro m e C1 2( C1 O 4) 3
’

P b CrO 4
i
Cr, ( SO ) 3K 2$0 4 . 24 ILO

Ch ro m i u m ni t ro -
ace t a t e
34 8 D YEIN G AN D TEX TILE CH EMIS TR Y .

T A B LE OF F O RM U LA AND M O LE CU LAR W E IG H T S OF P R INCIP AL

CH EMICALS US E D IN DY E ING — C . i o n t nu e d .

F o rm ul a . Mo l wt .

Co mm o n- s alt
p
.

Cu ri c chlo ri d e
b
.

Do u le c hlo ri d e o f t i n
Fe rri c a ce t a t e
Fe rri c c hlo ri de
Fe rr o u s a ce t at e .

Fe rro u s c h lo ri d e
p
Fe rro u s su l h a t e
F lu o ri d e o f ch ro m e
G la u b e rsa lt ”

y
mn
G l ce ri n
y
H d rate o f a lu i a
.

y
.

H d ro ch lo ri c acid .

Hy d ro flu o ri c ac i d
y p
H po s u l hi t e o f s o d a .

L a ct i c ac i d .

M ag ne si u m c h lo ri d e
M a nga ne se
.

N i t rat e o f c h ro m e
N i t rat e o f le a d .

N i t ri c
O x a la t e o f am m o ni a
y
.

O x a la t e o f a nt i m o n 6
O x a li c a ci d C, 0 , H, 2

Ph o
P a r a ni t r a ni li ne
g
Pe rm a n a na t e o f po t as K M nO ,
y
Pe ro xi d e o f h d ro ge n Hao z
Ph e no l Cn O H
p
Ph o s h a t e o f s o d a N a, H P O 4 1 2
.

Po t a s h K QCO 3 2
Po t a ss i u m o x a la t e K H C,, O 4
K 6 F9 2 ( CN ) 12
R e so r c i ne Co H4 ( O H) 2
Sili c a t e o f so d a . N a , Si , O g
Su g a r o f le a d P b ( C2H3 0 2) 2 3 H20
p
.

Su l h a t e o f alu m i na 1 8 HQ O

p
Su l h a t e o f c a d m i u m Cd S O 4 2 H20
p
.

Su lph at e o f c o pe r Cu SO , 5 11 20
p
.

Su l h a t e o f le a d Pb S O 4
p
Su l h a t e o f m ag ne s i u m M gSO 4 7 H, O
p
Su l h a t e o f ni c e l k N i S O 4 7 HQO
p
Su l h at e o f z i nc Z nSO 4 7
y
.

Su lph o c a ni d e o f am m o ni a N H, SCN
y
Su lph o c a ni de o f c o er pp Cu ( S CN ) ,
p y
Su l h o c a ni d e o f Iro n Fe ( SCN ) ,
y
Su lp h o c a nid e o f o t ash p K S CN
p
Su l h u ri c aci d ( O i l o f vi t ri o l HAS O .
 IN D E X

Ab b so r e nt c o tt o n, p p re a ra t i o n o f
Ab b so r e nt qu a li t y o f co t t o n , t e st i n g
Ac e t i c a c id , a c t i o n o f, o n co tt o n
b
t a le wi g t gt h f l t i
sho f n s re n o so u o ns o

f i bl
u se o hi g ,
n ea c n

f i dy i g
u se o id
, l n e n ac co o rs

f i dy i g i lk
u se o , n e n s

A id m
c ,
t f ia dy i g id
o un l o ,
n e n ac co o rs

t ti g f
es i bl
n h d ott o r, n eac e c o n

A id
c d b i dy t fi t d i t i g i h b t w
an as c es u s, o s n u s e ee n

A idc l f coti f h mi l
o rs , d i dy i g
u nc o n o c e c a s u se n e n o f
A i d dy
c es

ac t i o n o f .

aft e r- t re at m e nt wi t h c h ro me
a ppli c a t io n o f.

a ppli ca t i o n o f, t o co tto n

a ppli ed in n eu t ra l b at h

c la ss i fi c at io n o f .

d e ri v a t i o n o f
g e ne ra l c h a ra ct e ri s t i c s o f
li s t o f ri nc i a lp p
o n co t t o n, re p re se nt a t i v e

o n sil k , re p r e s e nt a t i v e

p p ro e rt i es o f

A ci d t re a t m e nt i n co tt o n bl e a ch i n g
Ac i d i fie d o o l, d e i n w y g a c id co lo rs o n

Acid s , a ct i o n o f, o n w oo l a nd c o tt o n
t e st i n gf as t n ess to

Aft e r c h ro m e d d
-
y es

Aft e r-m o rd a nt i n g wi t h c h ro me

Al k ali , t es t i n gf as t ness to
35 2 IN D EX .

Al k a li B lu e , m e t h o d o fd yig e n

Al k a li es , a ct io n o f, o n w oo l a nd c o tto n

Als a t i a n m a d d e r .

Alu m , r e a c t io n o fd y e s t u ffs wi t h
Am m o ni a , r e act i o n o f dyes t fi wi t h
u s

Am m o ni a c a l c o c h i ne a l

Am m o ni u m a c e t a t e , u se o f, i n d y e i ng s u bts a n t i v e co lo rs

Ana l yi s s o f t e x t i le fa bi r cs

Ant i -
c h lo r , use o f, i bl
n ea c hi n g
Ant i m o ni ne .

Ant i m o ny o x a la t e .

Ant i m o ny s a lt .

A pp a ra t u s fo r d yig e n

fo r d yi gy
e n a rn

fo r d y e -t e s t s

r e a c t i o ns o f .

Au t o g e ne bl k ac

Av i g no n m ad de r 0 0 0 0 0 0

B ar k e x t ac t r
B a si c d y es .

a ct io n o f
aft e r- t re a t m e nt o f, wi t h t a nni n

a ppli c at io n o f, i n o ne b at h

a ppli c at io n to co t to n

a ppli c a t io n to sil k
d e ri v a t i o n o f
ef
fe ct o f h a rd w at e r o n

li st o f the p i ip l
r nc a

o n co t t o n, p t
re re s e n a t i v e

o n si l k ,
re p t ti
r e se n a ve .

p ro
pe rt i e s o f
y
t h eo r o f d e i n y g
B e a u m e h d ro m e t e r y
B e r li n bl ue

B i s t re .

B la c k hi co c ne a l

B la n kty e a r ns , fa s t n e s s re qu i re d o f co lo rs o n

B le ac h a ss i s t a nt s , c o m p o s it i o n o f
B le a ch i n g ,
t e st i n gf as t n e s s to
B le a c h i n g co tto n

ca u se s o f t e n d e ri n gi n

B le a ch i ng po wd er
 3 54 IN D EX .

Ch ro m e o ra n e g
y e llo w
Ch ro m i u m fl uo ri d e , use o f, wi t h b t su s a nt i ve d y es

Ci b dya es

Ci rcu la r t a nk , t o find ca p a cit y f o .

Co a l-t a r d y es , co m p a ri so n o f wi t h
,
g t bl dy ve e a e es

Co c h i n e a l

r e a c t i o ns o f
Co lo r- la k e

Co m m o n e qu i v a le nt s i n m eas u ri n g
Co mm o n-s a lt , d e t ec t io n o f, i n d y es t uffs

b
t a le sho wi g t g t h
n s re n s o f so lu t io ns o f
Co mp a ri so n b tw d g e een e r ees B ea u m e a nd T w a d d le

Co ndi t i o n n i g f t t il m
o ex e a t e ri a ls

Co pp e ras va t

Co t t o n, a c t io n o f a ci d o n

a ct i o n o f k
a l a li e s o n

a ct i o n o f bl e achi n g p wd o er o n

a ct i o n o f m e t a lli c s a lt s o n

a nd li ne n, t o di s t i n g u ish b tw e ee n

bl ea ch i n g f o

bl e a ch i n g p , O e ra t i o ns in

g e ne ra l m etho d o f bl ea ch i n g
ho s i e r y ,
fas t ness re q ui red o f co lo rs o n

im p u ri t i e s in ra w

li ni n g s, fas t ne ss qu i red o f c
re o lo rs o n

pi e ce g oo ds , fas t ness re q u i d re o f co lo rs o n

g wi t h
sco u ri n so a p
l bbi g f t
s u n , as ness re qu i re d o f co lo rs o n

w p f t
ar s, as ness re qu i r ed o f co lo rs o n

w e tt i n g -o ut o f .

Co u pl d d y
e es

Cro p m dd a er

dy i g
C ro ss - e n ,
t es t i n gf as t ness to
Cu b w da oo

Cu d b e a r
 IN D EX .
35 5

De ve lo p d bl k
e ac o n co tto n
o n s i lk
De ve l p d dy
o e es

li s t
f t h e p ri ni c i p a l
o .

m etho d o f a li ca t i o pp n

o n co tto n .

p g b th p p ti
,

De ve lo i n a ,
re a ra o n o f
De x t ri n i n d y t ff d t t i es u s, e ec o n o f
o n f b i
a d t ti f
r cs , e ec o n o .

D i azo b dy ti
o fh t ,
ac o n o ea o n

Di a zo g p i dy
ro u s n es

Di a zo t i z e d co lo rs

Di a zo t i zi ng , p ti t b t k re c a u o ns o e a en in
Di azo ti i g b th p p
z n ti f a ,
re a ra o n o .

D i ch ro i p p ty f
c d y t ff t
ro er o a es u ,
o sho w th e

Di c h ro i m i th
s mp n di g f e co o un n o s h a de s , e f
fe ct o f
Di v i -di v i
b
Do u le a nt i m o n fl u o rid e y
g
D re s s o o d s fas t ne s s re q u i re d
, o f co lo rs o n

Du t c h m a dd e r
Dy e -
b at h s , m e t ho d o f p p re a ri n g
Dy es , c la ss i fi ca t i o n o f
Dy e st u f
f m a nu fa ct u re rs , a bb re v i a t i o ns fo r desi g g
na t i n

d i s so lv i n g o f
no m e nc la t u re o f .

s t o rag e o f
t e st i n gm o ne y -v a lu e o f
to d e t e rm i ne c la ss i fi c at i o n o f
Ec ru si l k
Em u lsi o n, m e a ni ng o f .

p
Em u ls i o n ro c ess, s c o u ri ng ra w o o l w
p
E so m sa lt s i n d ye s t u fl s d et ect io n o f ,

y
Er t h ri n
Ev e rni c a c id . .

Ex h a u st t e s t fo r d es t u ffs y
Exh a u st i o n o f d y e- a t h b
o f m o rd a nt b
at h t o d e t e rm i ne t h e d eg re e , o f
p
Ex e ri m e nt a l dy e at h b
-

Fact o rs i nfl u e nci n g dy i g p e n ro ce s s .

Fa nc yy a rns , fas t ne s s re qu i re d o f c o lo rs o n

F a nkh a u s i ne .

F as t ness o f c o lo rs , t es t i ng
Fe rm e nt at i o n vat
35 6 IN D EX .

Fe rri c c h lo ri d e , rea ct i o n o fd y es t uffs wi t h

Fi b re s , ch e m i ca l s t ud y o f t he
F ib ro in . .

F i ni s h i n g bl ue s pi i t r s

F la nne ls , fa s t ness re qui red o f co lo rs o n

F la nne l y a r ns , fas t ne ss re qu i re d o f co lo rs o n

F la v i ne .

F le u rs d e g a ra nc e

Flo w e rs o f madder
Fo rm i c a c i d , a c t io n o f, o n co tto n
F re nc h p pl ur e

F u lli n g ,
t es t i n gf as t ness to

F u ll s h a d e , a m o u nt o f d y es t ufl nec essa r yf o r a

Fu st i c .

a na l s i s oy f
re a c t i o ns o f

G a llo t a n ni c
-
a cid .

G a ll- nu t s
G a lls .

G am ie r b
G a ra nc e u x
G a ra nc i n
G e la t i n o n fa bi r cs , d e t e ct i o n o f
G la u b e rs a lt . .

i n d y e s t ufl s , d e t ec t i o n o f
fl
i n u e nce o f, i n d e i ng y
b
t a le sho wi g n s t re ng t h o f so lu t i o ns o f
G lu co se o n f b i
a r cs , d e t e ct i o n o f
G ra y so u r

G um ki no

G ums o n fa bi r cs , d e t e c t io n o f .

G yp sum in f b i
a r cs

H ae m a t o x lo y n

H a rd ne s s o f w a t e r, m e t h o ds o f co rrect i n g .

H a rd w at e r, de fi ni t i o n o f
H a t s fas t ne s s
,
r eq i u re d o f co lo rs o n

H em at i n .

Ho si e r yy a r ns , fas t ness re qu i re d o f c o lo rs o n

Ho t p re ss i n g , t e st i n gf a s t nes s to
y
H d rat e d ll l ce u o se

Hy d hl iro c id ti o r c ac ,
re a c o n o f d y es t uf
f wi t h
t bl a h wi g t e s gt h o n s re n s o f so lu t i o ns o f
Hyd m t ro e e rs

Hy d lph i t p wd
ro s u e o er .

Hyp h l o c id o ro us ac .
 58 IN DEX .

M a nga nese b ro wn
M a u ve di sc o ve ry o f
,

M e ta c sa lt s , a c t i o n o f, o n w oo l a n d co tto n

M i m o t a nn i c a c i d
M i ne ra l d y es t u fl s .

m a tt e r i n fa bi r cs , e s t i m a t i o n o f
o i l i n fa b r i cs , d e t e ct i o n o f

M o no po l o i l
M o rd a nt dyes .

a ct i o n o f
d e ri v a t i o n o f
ef
fe ct o f i ro n sa lt s in d yi g e n

g e ne ra l m et ho d o f dy i g
e n

li s t o f p i ip r nc al

p p ro e rt i e s o f .

Mo rd a nt t o use t o d e t e rm i ne t h e c o rre c t a m o u nt o f
Mo rd a nt i ng
Mo rd a nt i ng co tt o n su bt
s a n c e s us e d in
wi t h t a nni n
M o rd a nt i ng wo o l
Mo rd a nt s co m pa ri so n , o f d ifl e re nt . .

o n co t t o n fa bi r cs , d e t e r m i na t i o n

o n w oo le n f b i
a r cs , d e t e rmi na t i o n o f
sa lts o f m e t a ls u se d as

u se

Mo ri n .

Mo ri nt a nni c a c i d
M u lle m a dd e r
M u ngo fas t ne ss re qui re d
, o f co lo rs o n

M u ri a t e o f t i n
My ro bo la ns

N a ph t h o l d y es

N a t u ra l d y es, g e ne ra l u se o f
the mi no r

N a t u ra l fu r, d y i g im it t i
e n a o n o f
N at u re o f siz i g
n f b i o n a r cs , d e t e rm i na t i o n o f
N i t ri c a c id , re a c t i o n o f d ye s t u fl s wi t h
O il a nd g r e ase i n fa bir cs e st i m at io n o f .

O i ls u se d in s pi nni n g
O ld
 IN D EX .
3 59

O rc h i l
Or g a ni c a c i d s , a c t i o n o f, o n co tto n
O x a li c a c id , a ct i o n o f, o n co tt o n
O x i di z e d d y es .

Ox y ce llu lo se , t e st i n gf o r, in bl e a c h e d co tt o n

Ox y ch lo ri ne

Pe ct i n su bt s a nce s in co t to n
P e r m a ne nt h a rd ne s s o f
P e rs i s
p
P e rs i rat i o n, t e s t i n gf a s t ne s s to

P h lo ro
g lu c i n

Ph t h a le i n d y es

Pi e ce g oo ds o f w oo l, fa s t ne s s re qu i re d o f co lo rs o n

g
P i m e nt co lo rs , the m i no r

Pig m e nt d y es

a ct io n o f
Pi n k p, ro du ct i o n o f, wi t h i n d a nt h re ne d y es

P lu s h e s , fas t ne ss re qu i re d o f co lo rs o n

Po t a s h , u se o f, i n s c o u ri n gw oo l
Po t a ss i u m bi c h ro m at e , re a ct i o n o fd y t ff wi t h
es u s

Po t a s s i u m p e rm a n g a na t e , bl e a ch i n g w l wi t h
oo

P r i m u li ne
o n sil k .

P ru ss i a n bl ue

P s e u d o -p u rpu
Pu r p u ri n

Q u e rce t i n

Q u e rc i t r i n

Q u e rc i t ro n

Ra w sil k , co lo ri n gm -
at t e r in
p it i
im ur es in .

R w w l
a oo ,
im p u ri t i es in
R t g l
ec an u ar t an k ,
to find ca p a ci t y o f
R g i i
e a n n co ndi t i o ni n g
Re s i n i n fa bi r cs, d e t e ct io n o f
Re s i n so a p ,
u se o f, i n bl e a ch i n g
Ro s i n o i l i n fa bi r cs , d e t e ct i o n o f
Ro y l bl
a ue s pi ri ts

Ru bb i g n ,
t es t i n gf as t nes s t o z

R u b i ni c a ci d

R u fim o ri c a c id

Rug y a rn s , fa s t ne ss re qu i re d o f co lo rs o n
3 6 0 IN D EX .

Sc o u ri n g co t to n wi t h ca u s t i c so da
wi t h so a p
wi t h so da ash

S co u ri n g w i lk ra s

S co u ri n gw l h o o ,
c e m i c a ls u s e d in
e ffe c t o f e x c e ss i v e a l k a li in
ef
fe c t o f hig h t e m pe ra t u re i n
e m u ls i o n p ro c e s s

p p ro er p
t e m e ra t u re fo r .

u se o f al k a li in
'

u se o f e m u ls i o n p ro c e s s in
u se o f p o t as h in .

Se ri c i n
Sewi g t t f tn co o n, as n ess re q u i re d o f co lo rs o n

Sh dd y f t
o q ,
as n e ss re u i re d o f co lo rs o n

Sh i k g
r n fw l i a e o o o n s c o u ri n g .

S i li c a t e o f so d a , u se o f, i n bl e a ch i n g
Si l k d tt an co o n fa bi r c , a na ly i s s o f
S i lk b i li g
,
o n -o ff o f

g lue .

lu s t ri n g o f
s co u r n i g o f ra

S i lv e r c o c h i ne a l

Si zi n gm t i l a er a s in a fa bir c, e s t i m a t io n o f
S lu bbi g f tn ,
a s n e s s re qu i re d o f co lo rs o n

So a p d fi iti
,
e n o n o f .

d
.

So a ps , d i s t i n ct io n b tw e een h a rd an so ft
fo r s c o u ri n gw o o l .

s u it a bl e fo r use in s co u ri n g
u sed fo r b o i li n g -
o ff si l k .

So d a ash i n d y e st u fl s , d e t e c t io n o f
b
t a le w g
sh o g
i n s t re n t h s o f so lu t i o ns o f
So d i u m bi lph i t b l
su e, ea c h i n gw oo l with
ca r b
o na t e , re a ct i o n o fd y es t u ffs wi t h . .

c h lo ri d e , d e t e ct i o n o f, i n d y e s t ufl s
y
h d ra t e , re a c t io n o y
f d e s t u ffs ith w
h yd ro s u l ph i t p p t i f e, re a ra o n o

h yp o c h l it p p
o r ti f e, re a ra o n o

use o f i bl ,
hi g n ea c n

p e ro x i d bl e, h i g w l wi t h
e ac n oo

m et h o d o f d i s so lv i ng .

s u lph a t e i n d y e st u fl s , d e t e c t io n o f .

So ft e n i ng b le a c h e d c o t t o n
So lid so lu t i o n
3 6 2 IN D EX .

b
Ta le s fo r ca lc u lat i o ns in d yig e n

T a lc i n fa bi r cs

T a nni c a c id

b
t a le s h o wi g n s t re n gt h f l s o so u t i o ns o f
T a nni n, fix at i o n o f, wi t h pp co e ras

fix at i o n o f, wi t h t a rt a r e met i c
T a n ni n re ag e nt

Ta p e st r yy a rns , fas t ne s s re qui re d o f c o lo rs o n .

Ta rt a ri c a c i d , a ct i o n o f, o n co t t o n

Ta rt a r e m e t ic

y
Th e rmo m e t r
’

Th y f dy i g
eo r o e n

T h i i d ig d y
o - n o es

Ti t i g b l
n hi g w
n ,
e ac n oo l a nd c o tt o n by
Ti t i g bl
n h d
n tt ea c e co o n

d ye s t u fl s u se d

To p s, fas t ne ss re q u i ed o f co lo rs o n
r

T ru e sil k a nd a rt i fi c i a l s i lk d i t i n t i o n be t wee n
,
s c

T ru e s i lk a nd t ussa h sil k , to di s t i n g u ish b tw

e ee n

k
Tu r i s h m a dd e r
T wa dd le h d ro m e t e r y
U ni o n m at e ri a l, a ppli ca t io n o f su bt s a nt i v e d y es to
p
U h o ls t e r yy a rn s , fas t ne ss re qu i re d o f c o lo rs o n

Us e fu l d a t a i n d yig e n

Vat d y es 61 , 2 54

c las s es o f .

V eg e t a le d b y es

V e lv e t s , fas t ne ss re qu i re d o f co lo rs o n

Wash i ng t es t i ng fas t ne ss t o
,
.

Wat e r re la t i o n o f t o wo o l sco u ri ng
, ,

t e st i n gf a s t nes s to

Wa t e r i n d ye i ng i nfl u e nce o f ,

Weat h e r t e st i ng fas t ne ss t o
,
. .

We a vi ng y a rns fas t nes s re qu i red ,

o f c o lo rs o n

We tt i ng o u t o f co tt o n
-

Wo a d e d blac k
Wo o l a ct io n o f a cid o n
,

a ct i o n o f a lka li e s o n

a ct i o n o f bl e ac h i n g p wdo er o n

a ct i o n o f m e t a lli c sa lt s o n
 IN D EX . 63

Wo o l a nd co tt o n fa bi y
r c , a na l s i s o f
a nd s i l kfbi a y
r c , a na l s i s o f

d yige n s, t es t i n gf as t ness o f

si l k ,
a nd c o tt o n fa bi y
r c , a na l s i s o f
Wo o le n fe lt , fas t ne s s re qu i re d o f co lo rs o n

y a rn c o nt a i ni n gi ro n, sco u ri n g o f
sco u ri n g o f
Wo rs t e d b ra id s , fas t ness re qu i re d o f co lo rs o n

y a rns , sco u ri ng o f

Y a rns c o nt a i ni n gi ro n s co u ri n g o f
Y e llo ww oo d

Zi nc co m po u nd s o n fa bi r cs , d e t e ct i o n o f
Zi nc d ust , r e a c t io n o f d ye s t u fl s ith w
a nd a c e t i c a c i d , re act io n o f d y es t u fl s
‘

wi t h
Zi nc
 Co r t h e ll
’
s All o w a le b P r e s sure o n De e pF o u n d a ti o n s H 25
f r e i ta g ’
s A r ch i t ect u r a l E gi n n e e ri n g .
J
Q so
Fi p re ro o fi ng o f St e e l B u i ld i n g s. N so
F r e n ch a n d Iv e s
’
s St e r e o t o m y N so

Ge r h ar d s Gu i d e t o Sa n i ta r H o u se - In s
’
y p e c ti o n 1 6m o H
M
.
,

o d e r n B a th s an d B a t h Ho u se s J
O

Sa n i ta t i o n o f u li c B u i ld i n s P b g Izmo , H 50
Th e a tr e Fi r e s an d P a ni c s . 1 2mo H 50
L A ly i Mi V
,

Ho ll y f xe d P ai nt s , Co lo Pi g m
’
e a nd a dd s na s s o r e nt s , a n d ar ni s h e s

L g ar e I zm o J 8
Jh by Alg b M
I
,

o n so n s
’
Sta t i c s e ra i c a nd Gra h i c p e th o ds . :8 vo , N 8

K ll w y
e a a
’
8 Ho w t o Lay Out S u b ban Ho me G
ur ro un ds N 8

Ki d d A
.

P ktb k
'

i ld xo m a . m o r
’
er 5 rch i t e c ts an d Bu e rs o c e - oo A 8

M M V
. . .
C

a i re 8
’
o de rn Pi gm en ts a n d t h e ir e hi c le s r zm o N 8

M Mi
,

e rr i ll s
’
No n m e ta lli c n e ra ls . Th e ir Oc c urre n ce a nd Uses 8vo , A 00

St o ne s fo r B u i ld i n g and De co r a t i o n . 8 vo , M
Mo nck t o n ’
s S ta i r - b i ld i g
u n . .
4 to , A
P tta P o n s
’
r a c t i ca l T ti
re a se o n F o u n da t i o ns 8vo I
U
A
,

P b dy N
ea o
’
s ava l r c h i t e c t ur e 8vo Q
Ri C bl k M f
,

8vo
’
ce s o nc r e t e -
o c a nu a c t u r e N
Ri h y H db k f S p i d
.

fC o n s t ru c t i o n 6 mo mo r
’
c e s an o o o r u e r nt e n e n ts o 1 A
B i ld i g M h R dy R f
, .
,

i u n ec a n cs
’
ea e e re nc e Bo o k :

B ui ld i n g F o re m a n s
’
P k o c et Bo o k a nd R dy R
ea e fe r e n c e . ( In
Pr e p a ra t i o n )
Edi i
.

Ca r p e n t e rs
’
a nd Wo o d w o rk e rs ’
t o n

Edi i
. .

Ce m e n t Wo rk e rs a nd Pl a s t e re r s
’
t o n
Edi i
.

Pl um b e rs
’
St e a m -
F i lt e rs
'
a nd Ti n ne r s
’
t o n

Edi i
, , .

S to ne a nd B ri c k -
m a so ns
’
t o n

A d V
. .

b
Sa i n s In d u s t r i a l a n d rt i s t i c e c h n o lo
’
T gy o f P a i n ts a n ar n i s h

gg M M
.

b
Si e e rt a n d B i
’
in s o d e r n St o n e -c u tt i n g a nd a s o nr y .

S n o w s r i n c i a l S e c i e s o f Wo o d
P p p
’

L k d B i ld
.

T o w ne
’
s o c s an u e rs
’
Ha r d war e I8 m o mo r

E gi i g d A
, .

Wa i t s ’
n ne e r n an r c h i t e c tu ra l J u ri s p ru d e n c e 8v o ,

Sh e e p ,

La w o f Co n t ra c t s 8vo
E gi A
.
,

La w Of O p e ra t i o ns P r e li m i na r yt o Co n s t ru c t i o n in n ne e ri n g a nd r ch i

t e ct u re . 8 vo ,

Sh e e p .

Wi ls o n s Ai r Co n d i ti o n i ng
’
rzmo

Wo rce s t e r a n d At k i ns o n s E b li h m M
,
’
S m a ll Ho s pi t a ls , s ta s e nt a nd a i n t e na n c e ,

Su gg e s t i o ns fo r Ho s pi t al A r ch i t ec tu r e , w i th Pl an s fo r a Sm a ll Ho s pi t al .

xz m o ,

ARMY AND NAVY . .

B e rna do u s
’
Sm o k e le s s P o w d e r , Ni t r o -c e llu lo se . a n d th e Th eo r y o f t h e Ce llu lo se

M o le c u le u mo
M ki g
,

Ch a s e Ar t
’
s P tt
o f a e rn a n Izm o

d M i
,

Sc r e w P p ll ro e e rs a n P p ar ne ro u ls i o n 8vo
E
.
,

Clo k e s
’
Gu n n e r
’
s xa m i ne r 8v o ,

Cr e h o r e an d S q u i er s
’
P o lar i zi n g Ph o to -c hr o n o g ph ra 8y o
El m
.
.

Dav i s
’
s e e nts o f La w 8v o
Mi i y L w
. .
,

T r e a t i se o n the l t ar a Of Un i t e d St a t e s . . 8vo ,

Sh ee p .

De B ra c k '
s Ca v a lr y O t po t D t i
u s u es. 24 mo m o r
M i li L g
.
, .

Du d le y ’
s ta r y L w d th Pa an e r o c e du r e o f Co u rt s-m ar t i a l. ar e r zmo

R i
,

Dura n d ’
s e s s ta n nd P
ce a p ls i n ro u o o f Sh i p s.

2
 D y er s
’
Ha n d b k o o L i gh A
o f t r t i ll e r y Iz m o 3 o o
M H i gh E p l i
.
,

Ei s s le r ’
s o de rn x o s ves 8vo
L g
.
.
,

Fi e b e g e r
’
s T e xt - b k o o o n Fi e ld F o rt i fi ca t i o n ar e rzmo ,

Ha m i lt o n a nd Bo nd s
’
Th e Gu n n e r
’
s Ca t e c h i s m 1 8m o
El m
,

Ho fi y ’
s T e e n ta r Na v a l a c t i cs . 8v o ,

In g ll H n d b k f P b l m i n Di t Fi
’
a s s a o o o ro e s rec re 8vo
Li s a k s O d nance nd Gunne y
.
,
’
s r a r

L dl w L g i th m i n d T i g n m t i T b l
u o
’
s o ar c a r o o e r c a es 8vo
Ly El t m gn t i P h m II
. .
,

T ti o ns s
’
rea se o n e c ro a e c eno e na . V o ls 1 a nd 8vo e a ch

M h n P m nt F t i fi t i n ( M
. .
, ,

8v o h a lf m o
’
a a 5 er a ne or ca o s e r c ur . r

M
.
, .

a nu a l fo r Co u rt s -m art i a l . r6m o , mo r .

* Me r cu r ’
s At t a ck o f F o rt i fi ed

El m e e nt s o f t h e Ar t o f War 8v o
M fM A dm i
.
,

e t c a lf s
’
Co s t o n
a u fa c t u r e s
— An d t h e n i s tr a t i o n o f Wo r k s h o p s . . 8vo ,

O r dna nc e and Gu nn e r y 2 v o ls T e xt 1 2 111 0 , Pl a t e s a t la s fo r m

A dj M
. . .

Ni x o n s
’
u t a nt s
’
a nu a l 24m o

l A hi
,

P b dy N
ea o
’
s av a rc t e ct u r e 8v o
l M
.
,

Ph lp P t e s s
’
rac i ca a r i ne Su rv e i n y g 8v o
P w ll A m y Offi E
.
,

xa m i n e r Izm o
’ ’
o e s r cer s

g A mi
,

Sh p At fS b
ar e s
’
r o u si st i n r es in Wa r 1 8m o mo r
M E M k yF
, .

T p nd P l u es a o o e s
’
a nu a l o f Ba y o ne t x er ci s e s a nd us etr enci n g .

2 4mo lea t h e r ,
We av e r s M i li ta ry E x plo s i v e s
,
’

Wo o d h u ll s No t e s o n M i li t a ry Hyg i e n e
.

ASSAYING .

B ett s ’
s L ea d R e ni n g by E l e ct r o l ys i s 8v o , 4 oo
Fl e t ch er s
’
P ra c t i ca l In s t r u ct i o ns in Qu a nt i ta t i v e A yi g w i h
s sa n t t h e B lo w i e pp .

1 6m o mo r
M P t i l A yi ng
, .

F u rm a n s
’
a nu a l o f ra c ca ssa 8v o
L dg N A lL b y E p im yi g nd M t ll gi
.
,
’
o e s o tes o n s sa n a e a ur ca a o ra t o r x er e nt s 8v o
L w T h i lM An ly i
,

th d fO
’
o s ec n ca e o s o re a s s 8 vo
M i ll Cy i d P
.
,

rzmo
’
er s an e ro ce s s

M l f A yi g
,

a nu a o ss a n r zm o

Mi P d i f Al m i m d i I d i l U ( W ld
,

1 2m o
’
net s ro u ct o n O u nu an ts n us t r a se . a o ,

O D i ll N h T m f G ld O re a t e nt O 8v o
’ ’
r s co s o t es o n t e o re s

Ri k d M i ll A yi g
.
,

c N
et ts an er s
’
o t es o n s sa n 8v o
R bi d L
.
,

o gl Cy
ne a n id I d y (L en en s
’
an e n u st r e 8v o
M d El ly i C pp R fi i g
.
,

Ulk e s
’
o e rn e ct ro t c o er e n n 8v o ,

Wi lso n s ’
Ch lo r i na t i o n P r o ce s s . r zmo ,

ASTRONOMY .

Co m s t o c k Fi’
s e ld A s t r o no m yf or E gi n ne e rs

A im
.

Cr a i s
’
g z uth .

Cra n d a ll
’
s T e xt - b k o o o n Ge o de s y a nd L e a st S q u are s

Do o li t t le A ’
my s T r e a t i se o n P r a ct i ca l s t r o no

El m
.

f G d y
’
G o re s e e nt s o eo es

H yf d T
a b k fG d i A
or
’
s my e xt - o o o eo et c st r o no

M i m El m
.

e rr fP i S yi g d G d y
an s
’
e e nt s o re c s e u rv e n an eo es

Mi h i d H l w P i l A
.

c e an my ar o
’
s ra c t c a s tr o n o 8 vo
R E m i di A l i d A i m h d S Fi di g T b l
. .
,

u st s
’
x- er an t tu e, z ut an t ar- n n a e s. ( In P re ss )
Wh i t E l m t f Th A
.

1: i
e s l
’
d D ip i my e en s o e o r e t ca an e scr t ve s tr o no . r zmo , 2 o o

3
 CH EMISTRY .

Abd h ld Ph y i l g
er a en s
’
y i Th i y L s o o (H l d D f ) h
i ca l C e m i
str n rt e c tu r e s , al an e ren .

(I P n re s s

Ab gg Th e f El
’
s ly i Di i i
e o ry o ( Ed ) m
e c tr o 5 t c s so c a t o n vo n n e 1 2 o H 2
Lb
. .
,

Ad i r a nc e s yCl l i
’
a d Sp i fi G
o ra t o r i y T bl m a cu a t o ns a n
5 ec c ra v t a es rz o H 2

(M
,

Al G
e xe y e fi s l P mm l
’
fO g i Sy h
e ne r a r ) 8 p es o r an c nt e se s. a tt h e w s vo
I

O
-

All T b l f I A ly i
.
,

8 w
’
en s a es o r ro n na s s vo

A ld C m p di m f Ch m i y ( M d l L g m ws
. .
,
’
rn o s o en u o e str an e ar e ra o o

A i i fS 9 d N i l F d dD i yDp m
. .
,

ss o c a t o n t at e H
an f d a t o na o o an a r a rt en t s , art o r
M i g 06
o e
eet n , 1 8 ! vo 00

J m w M i g 1 9 07
. .
, t

a e st o n e et n 8 vo u 00

A
, .
,

N
us t e n s f’
Ch m i l S d
o tes o r e m ca
s tu e nt s Ia o n o
l E m
,

B k Ch m i (I P p i ) le
’
as i ll e rv e s e ca e nt s. n re a ra t o n .

Sm k l P wd Ni ll l d Th y f —
tr o
’
B d e e ss C ll l o e r - ce an th e
Ml l
e r na o u s o u o se , eo r O e u o se
o e cu e m 5 ra o N 0

d Sy h i I o g
.
,

a:Bl h a nc ar i Ch m i
'
s y nt et c m n r an c e st r rz o H 00
h R El m
.
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CIVIL ENGINEERING .

B R IDGES AND R OO F S HY DRAU LICS MAT ER IALS OF E NG IN EER

RAILWAY E NG IN EER ING
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Da v i s s le v a t i o n a nd St a d i a a les
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T e xt - b k o o Of Ge o d e t i c A s tr o n o m y
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T ra n s i t a n d L eve l . . . r6mo , B ds . 25

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Ph i l o so ca (T ss a o ro a es . r u sco tt a nd o r .

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Mh
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a an s
’
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,

T re a t i se o n Ci v i l n ne e ri n g 8vo
M im El m
.
,

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’
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M im
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,

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’
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M i El m g y Engi n
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f Hi h wa i ng ( In P re s s )
’
o rr s o n s e e nt s o e er . .

g
Nu e nt s la n e Su rv e i n
’
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g
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’
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p lR f M
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,

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Ri e me s S h ft i nki ng und e D f c lt Co nd i t i o ns
r
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s r i u 8v o
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M n l f T p g ph i l D w i ng
.
,

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’
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n d V nt i l ti n
.
,

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’
o er s r a e a o o u a s . r es s .

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, .

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’
s Ci v i l n n e er s
’
P k tb k o c e -
o o 1 6m o mo r
Am
.
, .

V e na bl e s
’
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M h
.
,

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E gi
,

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n ne e r i n g a n d Ar c h i t e c t u r a l ur i s J p ru d e n c e . 8vo ,

Sh e e p ,

La w o f Co n t ra c t s 8vo
E gi A
,

La w o fO p e ra t i o n s P r e li m i n a r yt o Co n st ru ct i o n 1 n n n e e ri n g a nd rch i

t e ct u r e . 8vo ,

Sh e e p ,

W a rr e n s
’
St e re o t o m y P b l m i n St
— ro e s o n e - c u tt i n g 8vo
V M E gi
. .
,

* Wa t e r b u ry ’
s es t P-
k t H nd b k
o c e a -
o o o f a t h e m a t i cs fo r n n e e rs .

i n ch e s , m o r. 00

We bb ’
s P bl ro e m s i n t h e Us e a nd Adj u s t m e nt o f E gi n n e e ri n g In s t ru m e n t s .

r6 mo , m o r .

Wi lso n ’
s T p g ph i
o o ra c Su rv e i n y g 8vo .

B RIDGES AND ROOFS .

B o lle r
’
s P ra c t i c a l T r e at i se o n t h e Co n s t r u ct i o n o f Iro n g
Hi h w a y B i dg r es 8 vo D
N 00
M
,

B u rr a nd F lk a
’
s De si gn a nd Co ns t r u c t i o n o f e t a lli c Br i dg es 8v o I
U 00

Li R
,

In fl u e nce ne s fo r B ri d g e a nd o o f Co m p u t a t i o ns 8vo J

M E gi
.
, O

Du B o i s ’
s e ch a n i c s o f n ne e ri n g . Vo l . S m a ll 4 t o , O

F o s t er s
’
T re at i s e o n W o o de n T r e s t le B ri d g es 4 to ,
I

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F o w le r
’
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H
C so
F r e n ch a n d Iv e s
’
s St er e o t o m y 8v o N so
A
. .
,

Gr e e n e
’
s rc h e s in Wo o d , Ir o n , a nd St o ne 8v o , N so
B ri d g T e ru ss e s 8vo N so
R
,

o o fT r u ss e s . 8vo , H 25

Gumm 3 Seco ndary S t resses i n B ri d e russes

’
’
g T 8v o , N so
He ll e r s Str e s s e s i n St r u ct u r e s a n d t h e Ac c o m p a n y i n
’
8vo
R
.
,

Ho w e s De s i n o f Si m le o o f- t ru s s e s i n Wo o d a n d St e e l
’
g p 8 vo N 00
M yA
.
,

y
S m m e t ri ca l a s o nr r ch e s 8vo 50
A h
.
,

T re at i se o n rc es 8v o 00
J T y
. .
,

o h ns o n, Br y an , a nd Tu rn e a u r e s h eo r ’
a nd P ra c t i c e i n t h e De s i g ni n g o f
M o d e rn F r a m e d Str u c t u r e s . . . Sm a ll 4 t o , IO 00
M e rr i m a n a n d J ac o by T ’
s ext- b k o o o n R o o fs and Brid g es

P a rt I. St r e s se s i n Si m p l T e ru s s e s

P art p II . Gr a h i c St a t i cs . 8 vo , 2 50
P ar t III B i d g D i g . r e es n . 8v o , 2 50
P ar t IV H i gh St t er ru c u r e s 8v o 2 50
M M m ph i B i d g
. .
,

o ri s o n
’
s e s r e O lob n g 4t o

Appli A
,

i k G p h i St t i w i th ca t i o n s T B eam s ,
’
So nder c er s ra c a cs , to ru sses , and r ch e s .

8v o
P k t b k f B i d g E ngi
,

Wa dde ll s ’
De P o n t i b u s , o c e -
o o o r r e n e e rs r6mo . mo r , z o o

Sp i fi t i f St l B i d g
ec ca o ns o r ee r es r zmo , 50
W d d ll d H i n gt B i dg E gi i g (I P p
’
a e an a rr o n s r e n nee r n . n re a ra t i o n .
)
W i gh t D i gni ng f D w p
r
’
s Tw p art s i n n
es l o ra -
s a ns . o o e vo ume 8y o ,

HYDRAULICS .

B ar n e s
’
s Ic e F o r m a ti o n 8y o
Ep Li q Vi
.
.

B a zi n
’
s x e r i m e nt s u p o n t h e Co n t r a c t i o n o f th e ui d e n Is s u i ng fro m
an Or i fi ce . . 8vo , 8

Bo ve y T
’
s r e a t i se o n y
H d ra u li c s 8vo 8

M
. .
,

Ch u r ch
’
s Di a g ram s o f e an V e lo c i t y o f Wa te r in O pen Ch a nn e ls .

b
O lo n g 4t p p o a er, H 50

M
.

y
H d r a u li c o to rs 8vo N 00

M E gi
.
,

e c h a n i cs o f n ne e ri n g 8y o , Q
Co fli n
’
s p
Gr a h i c a l So lu ti o n o f H dr a u l y i P bl
c ro e ms r6m o mo r o c co N so
M
.
. ,

Fl a th e r s
’
Dy na m o m e t e rs , a nd th e e a s ur e m e n t o f P o we r rz mo U
00

E
, O .

F o lw e ll Wa t e r s u pp ly ng i n e e ri n g
’
s -
. 8vo , A
- o o

Fr i z e ll s Wa t e r p o w e r 8v o
’
- l
. .
, U 00
Fu e rt e s 5 Wa t e r a nd Pu b li c He a lth
’
1 2 mo , H so

Wa t e r fi ltr a t i o n - Izm o , N so
Ga ng u i lle t a nd K u tter 5
’
G e n e ra l F o r m u la fo r t h e U n ifo r m Fl o w o f Wa te r in
Ri v e rs a nd O t h e r Ch a n n e ls .
( He r i n g a nd Tr a u tw i n e . 8 vo ,

Ha zen s ’
Clean Wat er and Ho w t o Ge t It
Filt ra t i o n o f P b li W t
u c a e r- s u pp li es 8vo ,

Ha zle h u rs t
’
s T o w e rs a nd T k f an s o r Wa t e r -
wo r k s 8vo
Ep L g Ri d Me t
. .
,

He r s c h e l s ’
5 1 1x e r i m e nt s o n t h e Carr i n y gC a pa c i t y o f ar e, vete , al

Co n d u i t s 8v o N
Ri
.
,

Ho yt Di s c h a r g
’
a nd Gro ver s ver e 8y o N
M gm Mi
,

Hu bba d r a nd K i ers t ed
’
s Wa t er wo rk s - a na e ent and a nt ena nce 8y o A OO

Ly d El
,

n o n s
’
De v e lo pm e nt a n d e c tr i ca l Di s tri b u ti o n o f Wa t e r P w o er 8v o ”
M
. .
, (

W
a so n s
’
a t e r- s u pp ly .
( Co ns i d e re d P ri nc i p lly f
a ro m a Sa n i tar y St a nd o p i nt .
)
8vo
M im T
,

e rr an s
’
re a t i se o n y
H d r a u li c s 8vo
M h i El m A ly i M
,

f ca l e ch a n i c s 8vo
’
ic e s e e nt s o na t
f Ri
,

M li t
o Hy d o r s
’
ra u li c s O v e rs , We i rs a nd S lu i c e s ( In P ) re ss .

R
.

S h yl
c u er s
’
e s e rv o i rs fo r Irri g at i o n , Wa t e r -
p o we r , a n d Do m es t i c Wa t e r
su pply L g ar e 8vo 5 00

Ri
. .
,

Th o mas a nd W a tt ’
s Im p m nt
ro v e e o f v e rs 4t o 6 00

R
.
,

Turn e a u r e a n d u s s e ll s
’
P b li W t
u c a e r- s u ppli es 5 00

We gm a nn s De s i gn a n d Co n s tr u ct i o n o f Dam s
’
.
s t h Ed , e n la r . g ed 4to , 6 00

Wa t e r s u pply o f t h e Ci t y o f Ne w Yo r k fr o m
- 1 6 5 8 t o 1 89 5 .
4 to 1 0 00

Wh i pple s V a lu e O f Pu r e Wa t e r
.
,

Wi lli a m s a nd Ha z e n s H ydra u li c T a b le s ’
8v o 1 50
Wi ls o n s Irr i g a t i o n E n gi n e e r i n g
. .
,

’
Sm a ll 8 v o 4 00

Wo lff s Wi n d m i ll as a Pr i m e M o v e r
.
,

Wo o d s E le m e nt s o f Ana lyt i ca l M e ch a n i c s
. .
.

’
. . 8v o , 3 00
 RAILWAY ENGINEERING .

Andre ws
’
s R i lw y E gi
Ha nd b k3 5 i
o o h m fo r St r e e t a a n n e ers x nc es . o r. u 25
f Am i R il d
. .

B g B i ld i g d S tr u c t u r e s
’
n s an e r ca n a ro a 4to
l
er s u o s

R il d L i
a
.
,

B k H db k f S
ro o s s
’
an o o 6m m
o t re e t a ro a o ca t o n 1 o o r. so
Ci i l E g i
.
,

B u tt s
’
F i ld b k
v n ne e r s
’
e -
o o so
R i lw y d O h E h w k T b l
.

’
C d ll
ra n a s a a an t er a rt o r a es u so
T ii C r a ns t o n u rv e 6m m x o o r. u so
k tt M t h d f E th w k
,

C ro c e
’
s e o s 8 or ar or vo u so
E gi i d El
,

D w a so n s
’ “
i T ni P k b kn e e r ng 6m i ”
an e c tr c ra ct o n o c e t- o o I o no r n

yl i R i l d ( 8 )
, . t

D dg re Hi y f h P
e 8
’
st o r o P p
t e e nns va n a a ro a . 1 79 a er,
l

U 00
Fi h T b l f C b i Y d
s er 8
’
a e o u C db d
c ar s ar o ar 25

R i l d E gi Fi ld b k d E p l
,

G dw i
o n s
’
a ro a Gi d 6m mn n e e rs
’
e o o an x o r e rs
’
u e i o o r. N so
f E
.
,

H d u T bl f C l l i g h C bi C
so n 8
’
a es i o r d Em a cu a t n t e u c o n t e nts o x ca v a t o n s a n

b km an e n ts 8 vo 00

P b l m i S yi g R i l d S
.
,

I ve s d Hi l an ts
’
s yi g d G d y ro e s n u rv e n , a ro a u rv e n an eo es

6m m 1 o o r. 50
M li M l f R id E i
,
’
d B
’

o to r an d ear s a nu a o r es e nt ng ne e rs i txrr o 00

Fi ld M R il d E i
.

N gla e s
’
l f e a nu a 6m m o r a ro a ng n e e r s i o o r 00

Fi ld M E gi
, .

Phi lb i k l f 6m m
’
r c s e a nu a o r n ne e r s r o o r. 00

R ym d R l d E gi i g 3 l m
,

’
a on s a i ro a n nee r n vo u es

I R il
. .

V l d F i ld G m
o y (I P p i ) a ro a e eo etr n re a ra t o n .

V l II E l m f R il d E gi
. . .

o i g e e nt s o a ro a n ne e r n

V l III R i l d E gi
. .

o F i ld B k ( I P p i a ro a n ne er s
’
e o o n re a rat o n

F i ld E gi
. . .

S l
ca r e s s
’
i g e n 6m m
ne e r n 1 o o r

R i l d Sp i l
.
, .

a ro a ra 6m m 1 o o r

d E
.
, .

T yl P i m i d l F m l
a o r s
’
r s hw k o a 8 o r u as a n ar t o r vo

f L yi g O R il d
,

* T wi
ra u t Fi ld P i ne s
’
Ci l C e f ra c t c e o a n ut r cu a r u rv e s o r a ro a s.

m m rz o o r,

M h d f C l l i g h C bi C fE d Emb
.

et o o i a cu a t n k t e u c o nt e n t s o x ca v a t o ns a n an

m by h Ai d f Di g m e nts t 8 e o a ra s vo

W bb E f R il L g m
.
,

e
’
mis d C
co n o i cs o a ro a o ns tru c t o n ar e r2 o

R il d C
. . .
,

a i ro a o n s t ru c t o n6m m 1 o o r.

E mi Th y f h L i fR i lw y
.
,

W lli g e n to n 9
'
c o no Sm ll 8 c eo r o t e o ca t o n o a a s a vo ,

DRAWING .

Barr
'
s Ki ne ma ti cs o f M a ch i n e r y 8 vo
M
.
,

Ba r t le tt
’
s e c h a ni c a l Dra wi ng 8v o
Ab i dg d Ed
.
,

e r e 8vo
M
,

li dg f Dra wi n g 8vo p p
’
Co o e s a nu a l o a er,

El m M l Engi
. ,

Co o li d g e a nd F ree ma n ’
s e e nts o f Ge n e r a l Dr af t i n gf o r e ch a n c a i
ne et s Ob l g 4 t
o n o

f M hi
,

Du r le y s i n e m a t i c s o
’
K ac ne s 8y o
App
.
,

Em c h s Int r o d u c ti o n t o r o e c t i v e Ge o m e tr a n d i t s
’
P j
li c a t i o n s y 8v o ,

T b k
Hi ll s e xt - o o o n Sh a d e s a n d Sh a d o ws , a n d e rs e c t i v e
’
P p 8y o
J A M
,

a mi so n s
’
d v a nc e d e c h a ni c a l Dr a w i n g 8vo
E M
,

le m e nt s o f e c h a n i ca l Dra w i n g 8v o
J M
,
’
o ne s s a c h i n e De s i n : g
P
ar t I i n e ma t i c s o f
. K
ac h i n e r M y
P
art I I o rm , S tr e n t h a nd F r o o rt i o ns O f a rt s g P p P
E
. .

Ma c Co r d s le m e nts o f De sc r i t i v e Ge o m e tr
’
p y
K
i n e m a t i c s ; o r , r a c t i ca l e ch a n i s m P M
M
ec h a n i ca l Dr a wi n g
V
e lo c i t Di a ra m s y g
McLe o d s De sc r i ti v e Ge o m e tr
’
p y
Ma h a n s De sc r i t i v e Ge o m e t r
’
p
a n d St o n e -c u tt i n y g .

Indust ri al Drawi n g .
M y D ip i G m y
o er s
’
e s cr t ve 8 eo etr vo 2 00

R d T p g ph i l D wi g d Sk h i g
,
’
ee s o o ra ca ra n an etc n 4 to 5 00

R id C i M h
,

i l D wi g
’
e s o u rs e n 8 ec a n ca ra n vo

T b k f M h i l D wi g d El m y M hi D i 8
,

e xt - o o o ec a n ca ra n an e e nta r ac ne es gn vo

P i i pl f M h i m
.
,

R bi
’
o ns o n s r nc 8 es O ec an s vo

d M i ll E l m f M h
,

S hw mb i m
’
c a an e rr 8 s e e n ts o ec an s yo

(R S ) M
,

S mi h l f T p g ph i l D wi g
’
t s 8
a nu a o o o ra ca ra n vo

Sm i h ( A W ) d M M hi D ig
. . .
,
’
t an 8 ar x s ac ne es n vo

f M h
. . .
,

T w h
i El m
ts o rt i l D wi g
’
s e Obl g8 e nt s o ec a n ca ra n o n vo ,

W D fi g I
arr e n s m’
d Op ra i t n m ns t r u e nt s a n e r a t o ns rz o

El m
.
,

fD ip i
e G m y Sh d w
e nt s o d P p i 8 e s cr t ve eo e tr a o s , an e rs ect ve vo

El m f M hi
, . .
,

e C i
e nt s o d D wi g 8 ac ne o n s t ru c t o n a n ra n vo

El m
.
,

f Pl e d S li d F h
e nt s o d G m i l D wi g m a ne a n o ree - an eo e tr ca ra n . . r 2 o ,

G l P bl m f Sh d
e n e ra d Sh d w ro 8 e s o a es an a o s vo

M l f El m y P b l m i th L i P p i f F m d
,

a nu a o e e n ta r ro e s n e ne a r e rs e ct v e o o r an

Sh d w a o m r2 o

M l f El m y P j i D wi g
,

a nu a o em e nt a r ro e ct o n ra n 1 2 o

P l P b l m i El m
.
,

a ne yG m y ro e m s n e e n t ar eo e tr 1 2 o

d E
,

P b l m Th m ro m pl
e i s,D ip i G m y 8
e o re s, an xa es n e sc r t ve eo e tr vo ,

W e i sb a c h ’
s Ki ne m a t i c s a nd P o wer o f T ra ns m i ss i o n .
( He r m a n n a nd

Kl ei n ) 8v o
M Topg p h i
.
,

W i ls o n s ’
(H ) o ra c Su rv e i n y g 8vo
V T F h dL
. “
.
,

Wi ls o n 5 ’
( . .
) re e - an e t ter i ng 8vo ,

F r e e -h a nd P p ti e rs ec ve 8vo
El m L g
.
,

Wo o lf s ’
e e nt yC ar o u rse i n De s cr i t i v e Ge o m e t r p y ar e 8 vo ,

ELECTRICITY AND PHYSICS .

Ab gg Th y f E l
e
’
s eo r o e c t ro y
l t i c Di s s o c i at i o n (vo n E nde ) rzm o

y E n g i n i ng R
. .
,

An d r e w s ’
s Ha n d - B o o kf o r St r e e t a i lw a eer 3 X 5 i nch e s , mo r
A ( M gi L g
. .
,

nth o n y a nd B ra c k t t T t b k f Ph y i
e
’
s ex -
o o o s cs a e ) ar e I zm o

A L y f El t i l M
. .
,

ny t h Th e a su re m e n t s r2 mo
’
nt h o s e ct u re - n t o es o n e eo r o e c r ca

y f El t i i t y
. .
,

Ben j a mi n ’
s Hi s t o r o ec r c 8v o
V
. .
,

o lta i c Ce ll 8v o
L Rfi g E
.
,

B et ts s ea d
’
e ni n and lect ro l si s y 8vo
A y by E l
. .
,

Cla s s e n 5 Qu a n t i ta t i v e Ch e m i c a l
’
na l s i s e ct ro l y si s

M
.

’
Co lli n s s a nu a l o f Wi r e le s s e le g r a p h y T Iz m o ,

Mo r
q
.

Cr e h o r e a nd S ui er s
’
P o la r i z i n g Ph o to '
ch r o n o g ph ra 8 vo
El M
. . .
,

Da n n e e l s ’
e c tr o c h e m i s tr y ( e rr i a m i 2mo

E gi d El
.
,

on P ck t b o o k
.

i g T
“
Da ws o n s’
n ne e r n
”
an e ct r i c ra ct i o e -
1 6mo mo r
y f h L dA E
,

Do le za le k s
’
Th eo r o t e ea cc u m u la t o r ( St o ra g e B a t t er y) .
( vo n nde .
)
r zmo .

Du h e m Th m d yn m i nd Ch m i t y ( B g )
’
s er o 8 a cs a e s r ur e ss vo

M
. . .
,

F l t h Dyn m m t
a er s
’
nd t h m nt f P w a o m e e rs , a e e a s u re e o o er . Iz o ,

Gi lb t D M gn t
er
’
s e a 8e e vo

Alt n t i g C nt
. ,

H h tt
a nc e
’
s er r m a n u rre s z o

H i g R dy R f
,

er n
’
s T bl ( C i n F t
ea ) 6m me e r e n ce a es o n v e rs o ac o rs I o , o r

Ho b rt a nd Elli s Hi gh Sp eed Dy namo Elect ri c Machi ne y

.

a s(I P
’
) - r n r e ss

P i i n fM
. .

H lno r an s
’
m nt re c s o 8 O e a s u re e s. vo

T l pi M i l M t h d Adj L g 8
.
,

e e s co t m nt c nd T ts rro r - sc a e e o , us e s, a es ar e vo ,

K a p et o ff s E p e i me nt al Elect i cal Eng i nee i ng

. .

ra
’
x 8 r r r vo

nt M
.
,

Ki b nn
n z ru T t i ng f C nt i n er s
’
h in es 8 o o u o u s - c u rre ac es . vo ,

L d
an Sp t m A n ly i
a u er s
’
e c ru 8 a s s vo

M
. . ,

L Ch t li
e H i gh t m p
a e t er s m nt ( B
’
d d B g ) m - e e ra u r e e a s u re e s o u o ua r — ur ess rz o

L b E l t h mi t y f O g n i C m p n d ( L n
. .
,

o
’
s e c ro c e 8 s r o r a c o o u s. o re z vo

L yn d n D l pm nt nd E l t i l Di t i b t i n f W t P w
.
,

o
’
s ev e o 8 e a e c r ca s r n o o a er o er vo

T t i n E l t m gn t i P h n m n V l I nd II 8
.
,

Ly n o s s
’
rea se o h e c ro a e c e o e a. o s a vo , e ac

Mi hi E l m nt f W M t i n R l t i ng t S un d nd Li gh t
. . .
,

c e s
’
e e 8 s o av e o o e a o o a . . vo ,

11
M g o r an s
’
O u t li n e o f th e Th eo r y o f S o lu t i o n and i ts R esu lt s 1 2m o

E E gi
,

Ph y s ical Ch e m i s t r yf o r le c t r i c a l n ne e rs r zm o < 0

El m El i B
.

Ni a u d e t
’
s e e nt a r yT re a t i s e o n ect r c a t t eri e s . F
( i sh b a c ) k Iz m o 50
E gi y f El i
.

No rn s
'
’
s Int ro d u ct i o n t o t h e S t ud o ect r cal n nee ri n g 8v o 50
El i M h i D i g
.
,

P ars h a ll a n d Ho a r t s b ’
e ctr c ac ne es n 4 to h a lf m o r o cc o so
R g L d El E
.
, ,

co mo t ive s : Si m p l C mp d Ne w
’
ea an s o e i o o un , an e c tr c . ditio n
L g
, .

ar e rzmo 3 50
R b g El i l E gi
,

i g ( H ld
’
o se n er s e c tr ca n G
ne er n a a ne ee 8vo N o o
Ry N i d H El i l M i y V l I
. .
,
’
an, o rr s , a n o x e s i e c tr c a a ch ne r o 8 vo N 50
Lb
. . . .
,

S h s y G id f S d
app e r s i Ph y i
’
a o rat o r u e o r tu e nts n s ca l Ch e m i s tr y . 1 2mo , H o o
Th S i y S m gi
u rs t o n s
’
ta t o na r tea -
en ne s 8y o N 50
El m y L
.
,

Ti llm i H
an s
’
e e n ta r e s s o ns n eat 8v o H so
T y d Pi h M l f L b L g
. .
,

o r an y Ph y i tc er s
’
a nu a O a o ra t o r s cs . ar e rzm o N 00
M d E l ly i C pp R fi i g
,

Ulk
’
e s o e rn e ct r o t c o er e n n .
8y o , Q o o

LAW .

Da v i s ’
s El m e e nt s o f La w 8y o
M li y L w
.
,

T r e ati s e o n the i ta r a o f Un i t e d Sta t es . 8 vo ,

Sh e e p
M i li y L w L g
,

Du d le y ’
8 ta r a a nd th e P r o c e du re o f Co u rt s - m ar t i a l ar e r zm o

M
. . .
,

a nu a l fo r Co u rt s ma r t i a L rb mo mo r
E gi A J
.
, .

Wa i t ’
s n ne e ri n g a nd r c h i t e c tu r a l u ri s p ru d e n c e . . 8 vo ,

Sh e e p ,

La w o f Co n tr a c ts - 8 vo
E gi A
.
,

La w o fO p e ra t i o n s P r e li m i nar yt o Co n s t ru c t i o n in n n e e ri n g an d r ch i
t e c tu re . 8v o
Sh e e p ,

MATHEMATICS
Elli p i F
.

Ba k er 5
’
t c u nc t i o ns 8vo
El m t A lyt i
.
,

i gg f Pl Ge o m e tr y ( B Oc h e r ) 1 2mo
’
Br s 5 e en s o a ne na c . .
,

*
B uch anan
’
s Pl a ne a nd p
S h e ri cal T i go no met y
r r 8 vo ,

B y e r le yHa r m o n i c ’
s F u n c ti o n s 8 vo
E
,

Ch andler ’s le ment s of th e Infini t e s i mal Ca lcul us rz mo

M Lg
,

Co m t o p n s
’
a n ua l O f o ar i t h m i c Co m p t u a t i o ns 1 2 mo

Lg f Alg b
,

Da v i s ’
5 Intr o d u c t i o n to th e o ic o e ra 8 vo
Alg b L g
,

Di c k so n s
’
Co lle g e e ra ar e r zm o

T h y f Alg eb i Eq ti n L g
,

Int r o d u c ti o n to the eo r o ra c ua o s ar e r zm o

j ti G m t y nd i t Appli t i n
,

Em h I t d ti t P
’
c s n ro uc o n o ro ec ve eo e r a s ca o s 8 vo
V i bl
,

F k F n ti
is
’
f C m pl
e s u c o ns o a o ex ar a e 8v o
H l t d E l m nt y S y nt h t i G m t y
.
,
’
a s e s e e ar e c eo e r 8 vo
E l m nt f G m t y
,

e e s o eo e r 8 vo '

R ti n l G m t y
,

a o a eo e r 1 2mo

An ly i
,

Hy d m nn S p ’
8vo
’
G e s ra ss a s a ce a s s

J n n ( J B ) T h p l L g i th m i T b l V t p k
. .
,

o h so
’
s . re e - a ce o ar c a es : es -
o c e t s i ze , p a pe r ,

1 0 0 co pi es ,

M o u nt e d o n h ea v y c ar d b o ar d , 8X1 0 i nc h e s ,
1 0 co pi e s,

Jh o ns o n s
’
(W . W .
) Ab i d g d E di i
r e t o ns o f Di fi e r e n t i a l a nd In t e g ra l
Ca lc u lu s
Izm o , 1 vo l
ge .

Cu r v e T ra c i n g in C ar t e s i a n Co -o r d i na t e s r zm o

Eq
.

Di fi e r e nti a l u a t i o ns 8v o
E
,

l
. .

le m e nt a r yT r e a t i se o n Di fl e r e n t i a Ca lc ulu s
'

( In P r es s )
L g
. .

Ele m e nt a r yT re a t i s e o n t h e In t e g ra l Ca lc u lu s a r e rz mo .
T h t i l M h ni
. .

e o re ca ec a cs 1 2m o ,

Th y f E eo r n d th M th d
o rr o r s a e e o o f L e as t S q uar e s xz m o

L g
.
,

T ti n Di fi ti l C l l
re a se o e re n a a cu us ar e 1 2mo

L g
,
.

Treat i se o n t h e Int e g al Cal l r cu u s . ar e rz mo .

T t i n O di n y n d P t i l
re a se o r ar a ar a Diffe r e nti a l Eq u a ti o ns . . La rg e 12 mo ,

12
F la t h er s
’
y
D nam o m e t ers an d th e M e as ur e m e nt Of P o we r r zm o

R
.
,

o p e Dr i vi n g r zm o u

A ly i E gi
.
,

Gi ll
’
s Gas a nd F uel na s s fo r n n e e rs r2 mo -
n

L
,

Go ss e
’
o co m o t i ve S p k ar s 8 vo n 8
L
,

Hall s Ca r u br i ca t i o n
’
1 2 mo u

R R
,

He r i n g s e a d y e fere n ce Ta b le s ( Co n v e rs i o n F a c t o rs )
’
1 6mo mo r N
E E M
, . ,

H o b a rt a n d lli s s Hi gh Spe e d Dy nam o a ch i n er y P

’
le c tr i c ( In re s s )
E
. .

Hu tt o n s Gas n gi n e ’

J A M
.

am i so n s d v a n c ed e ch a n i ca l Dr a w i n g
’

E M
.

le m e nt s o f e ch a ni c al Dr a w i ng 8 vo N 8
J M hi D i g
.
,
’
o nes s ac ne es n:

P ar t I . Ki n e m a t i cs o f M a ch i n e r y . 8vo , m8
P ar t II F o r m , St r e n gt h P p ti
a nd ro o r o ns o f P art s 8y o u 8

M E gi
. , .
,

K e nt s
’
e c h a ni c al n n e e rs
'
P k t —b k
o c e o o . r 6mo , mo r .
, w8
K e rr
’
s P o we r an d T P o we r r a ns m i ss i o n u 8

L M M
.

hi Sh p T o o ls a n d e th o ds ;
’
e o na r d s ac ne o b- 8

L o re nz s
’
M o d n R f ig
er e r e ra t i n gM a c h i ne r y ( P p o e, Ha v e n , an d De a n ) 8v o A 8

M
. . .
,

Ma c Co r d ’
s Ki n e ma t i c s ; o r, P ra c t i ca l e c h a ni s m . 8v o m8
M h i lD
,

ec a n ca raw i n g 4to
-
h- 8

V l i y Di g
,

e o c t a r am s 8v o H 8
Rd i F
,

MacFar la n d ’
fs G Sta n d a r d 8 e u ct o n a ct o rs o r ase s vo H 8
M h I d i l D w i g ( Th m p )
,

8 w8
’
a an s n u s tr a ra n o so n vo

El t i M h i D ig
. .
,

P h ll d H b
a rs a an S m ll t
o h lf l h
a rt s
’
ec r c ac ne es n a 4 o a eat er, : 8
M
,

C mp d Ai P l (I P
'

f i ne s
’
P l ee e s o )
re s s e r a nt o r . h r e ss .

P l C l ifi P w f F l
oo e s
’
a o r c o er o ue s w8
P t E gi i g R m i i
o r er s
’
1 85 5 t 1 88 2
n ne e r n 8 e n s c e nce s , o vo m8
R id C M h i l D wi g
,

e
’
i s o ur s e n ec 8 a n ca ra n y o n 8

T b k f M h i l D wi g d E l m y M hi D i 8
,

ext- o o o ec an ca ra n an e e n ta r ac ne es gn vo u 8

Ri h d C m p d Ai
.
,

c ar
’
s o re ss e m r 1 2 o n 8
R bi fM h
.

o P i ip
nso n s
’
i m r nc 8
le s o ec an s vo w8
d M El m fM h
.
,

S hw mb
c a i ll an i m e rr
’
s e e n ts o ec an s w8
w ki g f M
.

Smi h t P '
s l r es s - 8 o r n o e ta s y o u 8

Sm i h ( A W ) d M M hi D ig
,

8 w8
’
t an a rx s ac ne es n vo

Al h l E g i
. . .
,

S l C b i g d C mb i i ( W dw d d
’
o re s ar ur e t n an o ust o n n co o n nes oo ar an

L g m
.

P ) res t o n ar e 12 o 8
A im l M h i d P im M d h L w
n fE
.
,

Th ur s t o n 3
’
n a g i
as a ac ne a n r e o to r, a t e a s o ne r e t c s .

m 12 o m
d L W k i M hi y d M i ll
,

T i Fi ire at se o n 8
r c t o n an o st o r n ac ner an vo u
A m bi l I
,

T i ll C m pl
so n s
’
o et e 6m uto o e ns t ru c t o r r o ,
t
i
-
50
m o r. , u

Ti w hts El m o rt fM h i l D wi g
’
s e Obl g 8
e nt s O ec a n ca ra n o n vo H 25
E l m t f M hi C
,

W i d D wi g
’
arr e n s e en s o 8 ac ne o n s t ru c t o n a n ra n yo 7 50
V t P k t H d B k f M t h m i f E gi
,

Wt b a er ur y s
’
es o c e an o o o a e a t cs or n ne e r s .

s i i nc h e s ,
t
mo r . , 1 00
We i sb ach ’
s Ki ne ma t i cs a nd the P o w er o f T ra n s m i ss i o n ( He rrm a nn
Kl
.

ein ) 8 vo
M
.
,

a ch i n e r y o f T ra n s m i ss i o n a n d Go ver no rs. ( He rr m a n n-
Kl e in ) 8 vo
M
.
,

Wo ld s Wi nd m i ll a s
’
a P ri me o ver . .

Wo o d s Tu rb i n e s
’
.

MATERIALS OF ENGINEERING .

Bo ve M i l d T h y f St
y ’
s Str e n t h g o f a t er a s a n eo r o ru c tu r e s

El i d R i f th M t i l f E gi
.

i ty n e e ri n g
’
B urt s ast c an es s ta n ce O e a er a s o n

Ch h M h i f E gi i g
u rc
’
s ec a n cs o n ne e r n

l M h
.

G S r e ene s i ’
t ru c t u r a ec a n cs

d L dd A ly i f Mi d P i t C l Pi gm V
.

H ll y
o e an a
’
s na s s O xe a n s, o o r e n t s , an d ar ni s h e s

L g
.

ar e xz mo ,

L Ap M
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

’
an za s p li e d e c h an i c s .
M ai re s
’
M o de r n P i gm e nt s a nd th eir V e h i c le s r zm o 2 00

gM
,

Mart e ns ’
s Ha ndb k o o o n T e sti n a t e r i a ls .
( He nn i n g ) . 8v o , 7 50

M err i ma n s
’
M e ch a n i c s o f M a t e ri a ls 8v o
M il
,

St r e n t h g Of at e r a s rzm o

M A M lf S l
,

rzmo
’
lf S
e t ca l s t ee a nu a o r tee -u s e r s

d A i i T h V
.
.

S bi I d i l l gy f P a i nt s a n d a rn i s h 8vo
’
a n s n u s tr a an rt s t c ec no o o

M i l f M hi
,

Smi h rzmo
’
t s at er a s o ac ne s

M i l f E gi i g
,

Th urs t o n s
’
at e r a s o n ne e r n 3 vo ls 8 vo
lli M f E gi E gi
. .
. ,

P t I N m ar i l . o n- eta c at er a s o n ne e r i n g , se e Ci v i l n n e e ri n g ,

p g a e 9 .

Part II Ir o n a nd St e e l 8y o 3 50
AT All y
. .
,

P t III
ar . re ati se o n B ra s s e s , B ro n ze s , a nd Ot h er o s an d t h e i r
Co i
n st tu e n t s 8v o
V ) El m
,

Wo o d s Me ch a n i cs
'

( De f An a ly t i ca l
’
e e nt s o 8v o
R M App
.
. ,

T r e a t i se o n th e e s i s t a n ce o f a t e r i a ls and an e ndi x o n the

P r e s e rv a t i o n o f Ti m b er 8v o 00

M P) R El
,

Wo o d s ’
( . . u s t le s s Co at i n s : g Co rr o s i o n a nd e c tr o y
l si s o f Ir o n a nd

4 00

STEAM- ENGINES AND B OILERS .

B er r ys T ’
em p e r a tu re e nt r o - py Di g a ra m r z nnn -
l

Rfl M
. . o

c arn o t
’
s e e ct i o n s o n the o t i ve P o we r o f Heat r z nu n H
M ki g
.

Ch a se
’
s Art o f P at t ern a n . r z nu n N

Cr e i h t og n s
’
S t e a m -e n i n e g a nd o th e r H ea t m o t o rs . 8v o u
E gi i g El i T
,

Dawso n s
’
n ne e r n
”
a nd e ct r c ract i o n P ktb k
o c e -
o o r 6 nu n rn o r "
l
U
M ki g f Mk
.

F o rd s
’
Bo il er a n or B o i le r a e rs r 8 nu n H
Go ss s
’
L o co mo t i ve P e rfo r m a n ce 8v o l
U
E
,

He m e nw ay s Indi cat o r Pra ct i c e a n d St e a m - e n g i n e

’
co no m y r z nnn J
Q

Hu t t o n s He a t a n d H e a t - e n g i n e s
'
’
8y o I
U
M E gi
,

e c h a n i ca l n g f P w P l nt
ne e ri n o o er a s 8v o I

m b il E
.
, U
K e nt s
’
St e a o er n my
co o 8v o , A
K ne a ss
’
s P r a ct i c e a n d Th y f t h Inj t eo r o e ec o r . 8v o , H
Ma c Co rd s ’
Sli d e -v a lv e s 8y o O

My M L
.
,

e er s
’
o d e rn o co m o t i v e Co ns t ru ct i o n 4t o ro

My
,

o er s
’
St e a m T bi n ur es ( In P re s s )
P b dy M
. .

l f t h S t m ng i n In d i t
’
ea a nu a 1 2mo
-
o s o e ea e e ca o r .
. H 8
T b l f t h P p t i f S t t d St m nd Ot h Vap
a es o e ro er es o a u ra e ea a er o rs . 8v o , H 8
Th m dyn mi f t h St m ng i n nd Ot h H t ng i n
er o a cs o e ea -
e e a er e a -e es 8v o l
U 8
V l g f St m ng i
,

a v e- e ar s o r ea -
e nes 8v o N 8
P b d y nd M i ll St m b i l
.
,
’
ea o a er s ea -
o er s 8v o A 00
L g
. .
,

P y Tw nt y Y
ra
’
s w i t h t h In d i t
e e ars e ca o r ar e 8v o N so
P p i n Th m d yn m i f R
.
,

i b l Cy l in G V p
’
u s er nd S t ro a cs o ev e r s e c es ases a a u ate d a o rs .

rzm o H 2
5
R g L El Edi i
,

ea an s
’
o co m o t i v e s : S i m le , Co m p p o u nd , a nd e ct r i c Ne w t o n.
L g
.

ar e rzmo w50
L Eg R nn i ng M gm
,

Si nclai r s o co m o t i v e n i n e u a nd rzmo
’
a na e e nt n 00
b k E g i ng L b
.
,

Sma rt s Ha n d o o
’
o f n i n e er a o ra t o r yP r a c t i ce . rz m o , w so
Sno w s St e a m - o i le r r a c t i ce
’
b P . 8vo , w0 0
p g
S a n le r s No t e s o n h e r m o d n a m i cs
’
T y rzm o , a 00

w so
Spangl r G n nd M h ll E l m e nt s f St
e . re e e, a ar s a
’
s e o e a m- e n gi n eeri n g . 8vo , m0 0
Th mas s St m t urb i n es
o
’
ea -
8 vo A OO
Th urst n s H n db k f E n g i n nd B o i l T i
,

r a ls , a nd t h e Us e
’
o a o o o e a er o f t h e In d i
ca t nd t h P ny B k o r a e ro ra e. . 8v o ,
!
0 00

8v o H 50
M
.
,

a n u al o f St ea m - b o i le rs , t h e i r De s i g ns , Co ns tr u cti o n. a n d Ope ra t i o n .. 8v o . 00

15
Th u rst o n s
’
M a nu a l O f t h e St e a m -e n i ne g . 2 v o ls .
, 8y o , 1 0 00

P art 1 . Hi st o r y , Stru c tu re , an d Th y eo r . . . 8v o , 6 00

P ar t 11 . De s ig n, Co ns tr u c t i o n , a n d Op er a ti o n . . . 8 vo , 6 00

St a t i o n ar y St eam -en gi n e s. 8vo 2 50

E pl
.
,

St ea m - b o i le r x o s i o ns in Th eo r y an d in P ra ct i ce 1 2m o 1 50
We h r e nfe nni n g s Ana lys i s an d So ft e ni n g o f Bo iler e e d w a t e r
. .
,
’
F -
( P a tt e rso n ) 8 vo , 4 00

We i s b a c h s He a t St e a m a n d St e am e ngi n es ( Du B o i s )
’
, ,
-
. . 8vo , s oo

Whi t h a m s St e a m e n g i n e De s i g n
’
-
8y o 5 00

Wo o d s T h e rm o d yna m i cs He a t M o t o rs a nd Re fr i ge r at i ng M
.
,
’
. . a ch i ne s . . 8 vo , 4 00

MECHANICS PURE AND APPLIED .

Ch u rch
’
s M e ch an i c s o f E gi n ne e r i n g
E M
.

No t e s a nd xa m le s i n pe ch a n i c s

E M
.

Da n a s e x t o o
’
T -
b k o f le m e nta r e c h a n i cs fo r Co lle y g e s a nd Sc h o o ls 12 mo
E M
. . .

Du B o i s s le m e nta r
’
yP r i nc i pl es o f e ch a ni cs :

Vo l . I . Ki ne mat i cs .

Vo l II St a t i c s
M E gi
. .

e c h a n i c s Of n n e e ri n g . Vo l . I

Gr e e n e
’
s St ru c tu r a ech an i c s l M
J ames s
’
K i ne ma t i cs o f a o i nt a n d t h e P R a ti o n a l M e c h a n i cs o fa P a rt i c le
L g ar e
.

1 2m o
Jh i l M h
,

( W W ) Th i 12m o
’
o ns o n s e o re t ca ec a n cs.

L Appli d M h i
. .
.
’
a n za s e ec a n cs 8 vo
M i T B k M h i Vl IS i
. .
,

1 2m o
’
a rt n s e xt o o o n ec a n cs , o .
, ta t cs . .
,

V l Ki m t i o 2, ne a cs and Kin t i e cs i Zmo

M T h i lM h i
. .

8v o
’
a u re r s ec n ca ec a n cs

M i m El m f M h
. .
,

e rr i
an s
’
e e nt s o ec a n cs 1 2m o
M h i fM i l
,

ec a n cs o at e r a s 8y o
Mi h i El m fA l M h
,

e c ly i
e s
’
i e e nt s o na t ca ec a n cs 8v o
R bi P i i pl f M h i m
.
,

8y o
’
o ns o n s r nc es o ec an s

M h i P bl m L g
,

S ban o rn s
’
ec a n cs ro e s ar e l Zm o
d M i ll E l m fM
,

i m ’
S h w mb
c a an e rr s e e nt s o e ch a n s 8v o
W d El m fA l M h
,

o o
’
s ly i e i e nt s o na t ca ec a n cs 8 vo
f El m yM h i
. .
,

P i i pl r nc es o e e nta r ec a n cs . lZ mo .

MEDICAL .

Ab d e rh a l Ph y i '
lo gi ca l Ch e m i s t r y i Th i t y L e c t u re s ( Ha l l a nd De fre n )
df s s
n o n r . .

)
n re s s

i ng S pp r e ss i o n o f T b e rc u lo s i s i 2 mo
’
vo n B e hr s u u .
,

B o ld uan
’
s Imm une Se ra rz mo
M Rf
.
,

Da v e n p o rt s
’
Sta t i s t i c a l eth o d s wi th S p eci al e e r e n ce to B i o lo gi ca l
t i o ns 1 6m o , mo r. ,

Eh r li c h s
’
Co ll e c t e d Stu d i e s o n Im m u n i t y . ( B o ldu an ) 8 vo
Ali m L
. .
,

Fi sch e r s
’
Ph y si o lo gy of enta t i o n arg e 1 2 1110 , clo t h ,
M L g
.

d e Fu r sa c
’
s a nu a l o fPy s c h i a tr y ( R o sa no fi a nd ar e rz mo

y (M
. .
,

H a m m ars t e n s
’
T e xt- b k o o o n Ph y sio lo gi ca l Ch e m i s tr a n de l ) 8v o
Lb
. . .
,

J k ac so n s
’
Di r e c t i o ns fo r a o ra t o r y W k in Ph y o r si o lo gi c al Ch em i st r y 8v o
L y An ly i
. . .
,

as sar - Co h n
’
s P r a c t i ca l Ur i n a r a s s. Izmo .

M a nd e l s
’
Ha n d B o o kf o r t h e B i o -Ch e mi c a l L ab o r a t o r y rz m o ,

M di i
.

P a u li s
’
Ph y s i ca l Ch e m i s t r yi n th e Se rv i c e o r e c ne F
( i sc h e r ) r2 mo ,
E V A i b di
. .

P o zz i -
sco t
’
s T o x i n s an d e no ms a nd t h e ir nt o es . I zm o .

R o st o sk i
’
s Se ru m Di a gn o sis . ( B o ldu a n ) . r zm o ,

Rud d i m a n p t i b i li t i i n P i p ti n
’
s In co m a es r e s cr o s 8vo .

Wh y i n P h m y s ar ac . r z mo .

S lk w ki Ph y i l gi l d P t h l gi l Ch mi t y ( Or n d o rfi 8 vo
’
a o s s s o o ca an a o o ca e s r

f H m n E m b y l gy
. .
,

O t li 1 2mo
’
S tt l a er ee s u ne s o u a r o o

L t N t n Ch m i t y f D nt l St d nt
.

Sm i t h
’
s e c u re o es o e s r o r e a u e s . 8v o ,

16
 Id d in g s
’
s R k Mi o c n e ra ls

Ma rt i n ’
s La b o ra t o r yG ui d e to Qu a l i t a t i v e A ly
na s is w i t h t h e B lo w p i p e 1 2mo

M Mi
.
,

err i ll s
'
No n- m e ta lli c n er als : Th e ir Oc curr e n ce a n d Us e s 8y o ,

Sto ne s fo r B u i ld i n g a nd De c o ra t i o n 8v 0 ,
Pe nfi e ld
’
s No t e s o n De te rm i na t i v e Mi n e r a lo gy a nd R ec o rd o f Mi nera l T t es s
p p
.

8v o , a e r,

T bles a of Mi nerals , Includ ing th e Use o f Mi nerals and S t at i st i cs of

Pli sso n s
’
R k oc s and R k Mi oc nerals ( In P res s

p i f Mi
.

R i c h ar d s r2 m o mo r
’
s Sy n o s s o n e ra l

Ri
, .

es s
’
Cla y Th i O
s: n P p e r c c u rr e ce , ro e rt i e s , a n d U se s 8y o
T t b k Of Im p t nt Mi n R k
,

Ti llm an s
’
ex -
oo o r a er als a n d oc s . 8vo ,

MINING .

L g
ar e 1 2 m 3 oo
Vi gi
.
.

Bo yd ’
s Ma p o f So u t h w es t r n ia P k t b kf
oc e - o o o rm , 2 00

R es o ur c e s o f So u t h we s t Vi gi r ni a . 8v o , 3 o o

Crane
’
s Go ld and S ilver ( In P ress . )
A dd
.

Do u la s g ’
s Un t ec h n i ca l r ess e s o n T ec h ni cal Su bj e cts .

Ei ss le r s
’
Md o e rn Hi g h E p l x o si ves

Mi d M t l AR f
.

Go ese l s
’
n era s a n l e a s : e e re nc e Bo o k
M l f Mi i g
.

’
Ih ls e ng s anu a o n n

Ile s
’
s L d ea -
s m e lti n g
Mi ll
. .

er s
’
C y a ni d e P r o c e ss

O Dr i s co ll
’ ’
s No t e s o n th e T re a t m e nt o f Go ld Or es .

Peele
’
s Co m p res sed Ai r Plant fo r Mi nes . ( In P r es s

3 o o

R bio ne a n d L gl Cy en en s
’
a n i de In d us tr y ( Le Cle rc ) 8v o , 4 oo

M i li y E p l
. .

We a v e r s t ar ’
x o s i ves . 8y o , 3 oo

Wi ls o n s Ch lo r i na t i o n Pr o c e ss
’
. rr m o , r so
Cy ni d P a e r o ce sse s Iz m o I so
Mi i g
. .

Hy d li nd Pl rau c a a cer n n 2 d e d i t i o n . r e w ri t t e n rzmo 2 so

Mi V
. ,

T ti n Pr t i
re a se o ac c a l and Th e o r e ti ca l ne e n t i la t i o n r zmo . x 25

SANITARY SCIENCE .

A s so ci at i o n o f St at e and Nat i o nal Fo o d and Dai ry De pa rtment s , Hartfo rd M eeti ng ,

1 9 06 . 8v o ,

J ame s t o w n M ee t in g
Sa n i tat i o n
.

B as h o re sO u t li n e s
’
o f P r a cti c a l

S a ni t a ti o n o f a Co u nt r yH o u se

R
. .

Sa n i ta t i o n o f e cr e a t i o n Cam p s an d P k ar s .

Fo lwe ll g ( D i gn i n g
’
s Se w e r a e es , Co ns t ru c t i o n , and

pp ly E n gi
.

W t i ng
a e r-su ne er

F w l S w g W k A ly
o er s
’
e a e o r s na s es

F t W t filt t i n W k
uer es s
'
a er - ra o o r s

W t d P b li H lt ha er an u c ea

G i d t S ni t y H o u se - i n s p e ct i o n
’
G h d
er ar s u e o a ar

Hazen s
’
Clean Wat er and Ho w t o Get It L g ar e l Zmo ,

F i lt P b li W t
r at i o n o pp li f u c a e r- s u es

K i nni cut Wi nslo w and Prat t s Puri cat i o n o f Sew age ’

( In P r e ss )
L n d An aly i Rf
.
.
,

In p t i n f F d wi t h Sp e c i al e e r e n ce t o St a t e
’
s s o o o
e a ch s s ec o a

7 00

M aso n s
’
E x a m i na t i o n o f Wa t e r . ( Ch e m i ca l a nd B a c t e r i o lo gi ca l ) 1 2m o , r 25

Wa t e r—s u p p ly . ( Co ns i de r e d p ri nc i p lly f
a ro m a Sa n i tar y St an d o p i nt ) 8y o , 4 oo

18
 M e rr i m a n s
'
El m e ents o f Sa n i t a r y E ng i n e e ri n g . 8 vo ,

g
O den
’
s S e w e r De s i gn 1 2m o
po sal o f M pal Refuse
.

Parso ns ’
s Di s uni ci 8v o
El m pe ci a l R
.
,

Pr e sco tt a nd Wi ns lo w s ’
e e nt s o f Wat e r B a ct e r i o lo gy wi t h S e fe r

A ly i
.

e nce t o Sa n i ta r yW a t er na s s. 1 2m o ,

P r i ce s
’
Ha nd b k o o o n San i ta t i o n l Zm o
A S dy i
,

Ri c h ar d s C t fF Di e t a r i e s l zm e
’
s o s o o o d tu n

f L i i ng M
. .
,

Co s t o v as o di ed by S an i tar y Sci e n ce . l Zm o .

Co s t o f Sh e lt er 1 2m o
Ri
,

ch a r d s a n d Wi lli a m s s Di e ta ry Co m p u t e r
’
8v o
Ri
,

c h ar d s a nd Wo o d m a n 5 Ai r Wa t e r a nd ’
, . F o o d fr o m a S a n i t ar y St a n d
p o i nt . 8y o ,

Ri d e al
’
s P
D i s i n fe c t i oti n fF d n a nd t h e re s e rv a o o o o 8v o ,

S w g nd B e t i l P
a ifi ti n f S w g
e a a c er a ur ca o o e a e 8vo
nd V entil at i o n o f S ub w y s
.
,

So p e s Ai
r
’
r a ( In P a r e SS

nd R
.

T n
ur e a u re a ll P b li W t r ppli u sse
’
s u c a e -s u es

Venable s Garba ge C emat o ri es i n Ameri ca

.

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