Jeans Redesign Insights Report 2023 FINAL

THE JEANS REDESIGN INSIGHTS REPORT 2021-2023 1
Title
The Jeans
Redesign
Insights report
2021 - 2023
Jeans are iconic.
But the way we make

jeans today causes
waste and pollution.
The Jeans Redesign

demonstrates that
it can be different,
by making jeans fit for

a circular economy.
THE JEANS REDESIGN INSIGHTS REPORT 4
Meet the participants
100
participants
VALUE CHAIN
8 19
vertically
integrated units
fabric
mills
23 50
manufacturers brands
ACROSS
25 5
countries continents
The Jeans 1. 2. 3.
Infographic page
Calls to action
Redesign Circular design The solution
pathways
Without systems
change progress will
To drive forward, the
Ellen MacArthur Foundation
can become
2021-2023 the norm are clear not be fully realised calls on businesses and
policymakers to:
100
• Participants have demonstrated • For certain criteria, it is no • Businesses are investing to > Make circular design the
it is possible to redesign 100% longer a question of technical bring redesigned products norm - scale to include
of their jeans portfolio to be fit capability, but a design choice to market all jeans and other garments
for a circular economy
• Progress has been made • Organisations are sending
• Garment manufacturers and to scale previously limited demand signals to stimulate > Make the economics
fabric mills are ready to supply solutions the necessary infrastructure work - price in the
Brands, retailers, garment brands and retailers true cost to level the
manufacturers and fabric • Action has been taken to • Participants are taking action playing field
mills participated • Circular design principles are surface innovation beyond product design
increasingly being applied to > Move from product
25
other garments, with 29% • Remaining design challenges
and material innovation gaps
redesign to systems
of participants applying
principles beyond denim to bridge are clear redesign - take bold and
unprecedented action
72% Technical capability exists Participants continue to
$
for organic content, rivet report making investments
Countries represented elimination, safe chemicals, and paying premiums to
of participants have
across Africa, Asia, made fabric or jeans that
and alternatives to bring redesigned products
conventional electroplating to life
Europe, North and meet the guidelines
South America
1.5m+ 87%
Increased public
commitments to source a
minimum percentage of
1.5 million pairs of redesigned Up to 87% of post-consumer post-consumer recycled
jeans were brought to market recycled content was content sends demand
by brands in 2023 - 3x more incorporated into participant signals crucial for stimulating
than 2021 jeans, while still meeting the the development of
durability guidelines infrastructure
40%+ 2%
Limiting non-cellulose-based
69%
of brands reported having
11% of brands redesigned fibres to 2% remains a material ongoing circular business
40%+ of their jeans portfolio innovation challenge to models in place, including
with some reaching 100% deliver styles and comfort that 29% offering resale and 24%
appeal to customers, including offering repair services
jeans with stretch
The participants
Contents
Context 8
Why jeans need a redesign 9
The Jeans Redesign: a starting point 10
on the circular economy journey for fashion
Summary of outcomes 12
Detailed insights from The Jeans Redesign 17

1. Circular design can become the norm 18
2. The solution pathways are clear 22
3. Without systems change, the progress that 23
has been made to redesign products will not
be fully realised
The Guidelines: Progress, Solutions, Barriers 25
Calls to action 33
Endnotes 42
Appendix 43
Data disclaimer 43
Vision 44
Acknowledgements 45
About us 46
Title
Context
PHOTO: MONKI
Why jeans need a redesign
THE CURRENT FASHION SYSTEM IS BROKEN Jeans – which have been at the heart of countless Transforming the fashion system so fundamentally
fashion collections for decades, sold and worn is a complex challenge. There is no single or simple
It extracts resources to make products that are used almost everywhere and by all generations – are no solution, and no one organisation or system actor can
for a very short amount of time and, ultimately, exception to the fashion industry’s take-make-waste do it alone. It means not only designing the products
thrown away. As a result of this take-make-waste model. Making jeans today requires large amounts of the future, but also the processes, services, supply
model, every year the fashion industry misses out of resources, such as water, and energy, and the chains, and business models that will deliver them
on hundreds of billions of dollars and contributes way they are designed and constructed makes them and keep them in use.⁵
significantly to climate change, biodiversity loss, difficult to remake and recycle after use.
waste and pollution. The opportunity is both immense and exciting
– but where to begin? By taking an iconic and
The fashion industry is responsible for more annual A CIRCULAR ECONOMY universal product: jeans.
greenhouse gas emissions than all international FOR FASHION IS REQUIRED
flights and maritime shipping combined.¹ Between
2000 and 2015, clothing production doubled, while In recent years, businesses across the fashion
utilisation – the average number of times a garment is industry have started to take action to address these
worn before it ceases to be used – decreased by 36%.² interlocking environmental issues. Such efforts
Global apparel production is projected to increase in – including the reduction of carbon emissions
volume by 63% by 2030 – equivalent to more than 500 and water use – are essential. However, to create a
billion additional T-shirts.³ If growth continues along thriving, nature-positive fashion industry, a radical
this trajectory, industry greenhouse gas emissions are transformation of the way products are designed,
estimated to rise to 2.7 billion tonnes per year. made, and used is required.
The fashion industry is also a significant contributor In a circular economy for fashion,⁴ products are
to global biodiversity loss, driven by the pollution of
air, water, and soil, and the degradation of ecosystems • used more
caused by raw material production methods, • made to be made again
intensive washing, dyeing, and finishing processes, • made from safe and recycled or renewable inputs
and eventually the incineration and landfilling of
discarded clothes.
The Jeans Redesign: a starting point on

the circular economy journey for fashion
2019 2020 2021 2022 2023 2024
The 72 Jeans Redesign Participants took action The 100 Jeans Redesign Participants took action
February 2019 July 2019 July 2021 July 2023

The Foundation The Jeans Redesign was The first Insights Report was published The second
gathered insights launched with 16 brands Insights Report
from more than committing to redesign The guidelines were updated with a ‘new is published
80 industry jeans according to the minimum bar’ to reflect participant’s
experts from guidelines ‘a minimum progress and new industry innovation
across academia, bar’, established with the
industry and NGOs intention to be regularly 100 participants including brands,
to collaboratively reviewed and updated to retailers, garment manufacturers and mills
define design drive the industry forward committed to design and make fabric and
parameters for the jeans to be fit for a circular economy
very first time The participant group
grew to 72
The Jeans Redesign aims to demonstrate how jeans by moving beyond theoretical discussions, learning also to provide full transparency on progress and
can be designed and made for a circular economy. by doing, testing new solutions, and overcoming the methods they have used to meet the guidelines.
In 2019 the Ellen MacArthur Foundation published the innovation gaps. Any claims made by any organisation on progress
first-ever set of guidelines,⁶ underpinned by common towards a circular economy must be specific and
definitions, to make jeans fit for a circular economy The Jeans Redesign project has a built-in reporting transparent about the scale in which they are applied
and brought together the first participants committed mechanism to make it as robust and transparent as to the business. Individual company reports from
to redesign these iconic garments. Today, 100+ possible. Participants are required to report every 2021 and 2023 featuring reported data against each
organisations across the industry have redesigned and two years, committing not only to produce fabric or guideline from each company are published in full on
brought to market jeans that align with this ambition, jeans in line with The Jeans Redesign guidelines but the website.
Through their participation in The Jeans Redesign,

organisations are taking a step forward in their long-term
circular economy journey by putting redesigned products
on the market. We welcome this progress. But in order to truly
challenge conventional linear models at scale – and for a circular
economy for fashion to become the norm – we must ensure that
efforts focus not only on redesigning the products of the future,
but on the services and business models that deliver them and
keep them in use. The path forward is clear. What is needed
now is to accelerate the pace and scale of change.
Jules Lennon, Fashion Lead
Title
Summary of
outcomes
PHOTO: HNST
Circular design can become the norm.

Participants of The Jeans Redesign are pushing their ambition further by not only proving it is possible to redesign a higher
percentage of their jeans portfolio, but also by increasingly applying circular economy principles to other garments.
REDESIGNING UP TO 100% OF A COMPANY’S COLLABORATION, LEADERSHIP BUY-IN, GOING BEYOND JEANS: CIRCULAR DESIGN
JEANS PORTFOLIO TO BE FIT FOR A AND CAPACITY BUILDING ARE ESSENTIAL PRINCIPLES ARE INCREASINGLY BEING
CIRCULAR ECONOMY IS POSSIBLE FOR SUCCESSFUL CIRCULAR PRODUCT APPLIED TO OTHER GARMENTS
INNOVATION
72% of participants overcame design and innovation By building organisational understanding of how
challenges, resulting in brands bringing 1.5 million Collaboration, internally and across the supply to apply circular economy principles to jeans,
pairs of redesigned jeans to the market between 2021 chain, and endorsed by leadership, has been crucial participants have begun to apply these principles
and 2023. That’s more than three times as many as to progress. Participants who have successfully to other fashion products. 38% of brands and
in 2021, with one-in-nine brands redesigning at least developed collaborations across the supply chain manufacturers have reported applying the principles
40% of their jeans portfolio to meet the guidelines with have seen higher levels of innovation at a product, to other denim garments in their portfolios and 29% of
some companies reaching 100%, demonstrating that material and component level, and have also been brands and manufacturers have reported applying the
change is possible. able to expand their circular business model offerings. principles beyond denim garments to jumpers, tops,
Collaborations outside of the fashion value chain on and accessories such as hats and bags.
research projects have also played an important
GARMENT MANUFACTURERS AND FABRIC role in developing circular design capacity across From the starting point of redesigning jeans,
MILLS ARE READY TO SUPPLY BRANDS the industry. participants have progressed beyond proof of
AND RETAILERS WITH FABRIC AND JEANS concept, and can now harness the creativity they’ve
COMPLIANT WITH THE GUIDELINES applied at a product level to ensure circular design
becomes the norm.
Three-quarters of participating garment
manufacturers and fabric mills have produced
fabric or jeans compliant with The Jeans Redesign
guidelines. Of the remaining garment manufacturers
and fabric mills, a further 9% are ready to, with some
reporting they are in discussion with buyers to start
producing orders.
The solution pathways are clear.

Participants of The Jeans Redesign are overcoming some barriers and surfacing innovation, proving that many circular design
solutions are no longer a technical capability question, but a design choice.
THE JEANS REDESIGN HAS RAISED THE PROGRESS HAS BEEN MADE TO SCALE REMAINING DESIGN CHALLENGES AND
MINIMUM BAR FOR CIRCULAR DESIGN PREVIOUSLY LIMITED SOLUTIONS MATERIAL INNOVATION GAPS TO BRIDGE
ARE CLEAR
In 2021, the ‘minimum bar’ of The Jeans Redesign In 2021, participants reported that, while available,
guidelines was raised, increasing the ambition level post-consumer recycled content was costly and Limiting non-cellulose-based fibres to 2% is still
to reflect positive participant progress (from 2019 to presented trade-offs with durability requirements. consistently reported by participants as one of the
2021) and a more mature innovation landscape. They also reported that finding hardware solutions toughest requirements to meet, while delivering styles
that prohibited conventional electroplating was and comfort that appeal to customers and meet the
among one of the toughest criteria to achieve. guidelines, including jeans with stretch. Other key
FOR CERTAIN CRITERIA, IT IS NO LONGER In 2023, participants demonstrated progress in innovation gaps from 2021 still remain to be overcome
A QUESTION OF TECHNICAL CAPABILITY, both these areas, with increased incorporation of in 2023, such as disassemblable threads and zippers.
BUT A DESIGN CHOICE recycled content and widespread elimination of
conventional electroplating. The efforts of The Jeans Redesign participants over
In 2021, participants commonly applied solutions the past two years have clarified where investment
for use of organic content, rivet elimination, and and innovation are needed. Now the solution
safe chemicals. In 2023, progress has consolidated, ACTION HAS BEEN TAKEN TO pathways are clear, there is no reason to delay
and a further five criteria have been widely adopted, SURFACE INNOVATION progress.
including: the use of 98% cellulose-based content,
care labelling, durability testing, water usage for In 2021, only limited solutions existed for
denim fabric, and safe wastewater. For several disassemblable hardware and built-in traceability. See Section 4 The Guidelines: Progress, Solutions,
criteria, garment manufacturers commonly reported In 2023, design solutions and technology now Barriers for further details.
that while they have the technical capabilities exist for disassemblable buttons and garment
available to meet the guidelines, they continue to traceability, and the path to scale these solutions
add traditional hardware components where buyer is clear. Similar steps forward can be seen in
orders specify them. regenerative sourcing with pockets of promising
progress to source cellulose-based fibres with
nature-positive outcomes, which was extremely
limited in 2021.
Without systems change, the progress that has been made

to redesign products will not be fully realised.
Participants of The Jeans Redesign are starting to move beyond redesigning products to be fit for a circular economy to increasingly offering
services and business models to deliver them and keep them in use. Unlocking these models at scale will require a radical system change.
BUSINESSES ARE INVESTING TO BRING ORGANISATIONS ARE SENDING DEMAND PARTICIPANTS ARE TAKING ACTION
REDESIGNED PRODUCTS TO MARKET SIGNALS STIMULATING THE NECESSARY BEYOND PRODUCT DESIGN
INFRASTRUCTURE AND INPUTS
In 2023, a third of the participant group reported Continuing to redesign the products of the future
making collective investments of over USD 39 million In publicly committing to, and taking action to bring is essential. However, designing for reuse, repair,
to support redesigning fabric and jeans to be fit for a redesigned products to market, 100 organisations remaking, and recycling can only be effective when
circular economy. Brands reported paying premiums from across the value chain are sending collective complemented by actions which also rethink the
to source and certify recycled content, organic demand signals to the wider industry. Such signals are processes, services, business models, and supply
content, and disassemblable components. Garment crucial for stimulating the infrastructure that supports chains that will deliver them and keep them in use.
manufacturers and fabric mills are investing in a circular economy for fashion. These signals can be In 2021, 6% of brands reported new models through
innovative technologies, particularly to reduce water further accelerated by organisations willing to publicly which products can be accessed. Two years later, 71%
usage. Other areas in which brands reported making commit to such infrastructure in practice. of brands have reported having an ongoing service or
investments included knowledge building, fixed business model in place to keep jeans in use at their
assets, inventory, capabilities, and mergers highest value. While it is difficult to solely attribute
and acquisitions. this 12-fold increase to participation in The Jeans
Redesign, the momentum is promising.
Building on the momentum generated by The Jeans

Redesign, it is time to accelerate action to redesign
the system these products enter.
Calls to action
To continue driving the industry forward, the Ellen MacArthur Foundation
calls on businesses and policymakers to:
MAKE MAKE MOVE FROM

CIRCULAR THE PRODUCT
DESIGN ECONOMICS REDESIGN
THE NORM WORK TO SYSTEMS
REDESIGN
SCALE TO INCLUDE PRICE IN THE TAKE BOLD AND
ALL JEANS AND TRUE COST UNPRECEDENTED
OTHER GARMENTS TO LEVEL THE ACTION
PLAYING FIELD
See Section 5 for further details on calls to businesses and policymakers

Title
Detailed
insights
from
The Jeans
Redesign
PHOTO: PRIMARK
Circular design can become the norm.

Participants of The Jeans Redesign are pushing their ambition further by not only proving it is possible to redesign a higher
percentage of their jeans portfolio, but also by increasingly applying circular economy principles to other garments.
REDESIGNING UP TO 100% OF A COMPANY’S GARMENT MANUFACTURERS AND FABRIC COLLABORATING ACROSS THE VALUE CHAIN
JEANS PORTFOLIO TO BE FIT FOR A MILLS ARE READY TO SUPPLY BRANDS WITH ENABLES BETTER SOURCING OF FIBRES AND
CIRCULAR ECONOMY IS POSSIBLE FABRIC AND JEANS COMPLIANT WITH THE COMPONENTS
GUIDELINES
72% of participants overcame design and innovation In 2021, participants reported that some solutions
challenges, resulting in brands bringing 1.5 million Three quarters of participating garment to make jeans fit for a circular economy were either
pairs (more than three times as many as in 2021) of manufacturers and fabric mills have produced limited (for example buttons that can be disassembled
redesigned jeans to the market between 2021 and 2023 fabric or jeans compliant with The Jeans Redesign and cellulosic thread), or simply did not exist yet.
that are durable, recyclable, traceable and made using guidelines. Of the remaining quarter, 9% reported that Catalysing conversations between participants and
safe materials and processes. they are ready to produce fabric or jeans compliant suppliers was key to overcoming these challenges and
with the guidelines, with some citing brand and buyer finding solutions to meet the guidelines.
One-in-nine brands redesigned 40% of their jeans commitment as key to closing the gap between ability
portfolio to meet the guidelines. HNST and BAM and action. This presents an opportunity to further Collaboration remains critical to enable participants
Bamboo Clothing designed 100% of their jeans, Chloé scale production of jeans fit for a circular economy. and suppliers to collectively bring redesigned garments
redesigned more than 90%, and Weekday redesigned to life. In 2023, there has been a focus on collaboration
40% of their portfolio to be fit for a circular economy. to source cellulose-based fibres produced using organic
or regenerative methods, as well as sourcing recycled
While the number of redesigned jeans remains a Our customer sold out of the redesigned jeans at materials of which, post-consumer recycled content
fraction of the industry total, The Jeans Redesign an increased sell-through rate of 75% compared to from apparel-to-apparel recycling is the preferred
demonstrates that it is possible to redesign and make the jeans not designed and produced to be fit for a source of recycled feedstock.⁸
up to 100% of a company’s jeans portfolio to be fit for a circular economy. In light of this, Artistic Apparels
circular economy today. plan to offer redesigned products to other customers Brands and manufacturers have also reported
and aims to extend its range of garments designed to working closely with their suppliers to ensure organic
be fit for a circular economy in 2023/2024. certifications are in place and tracked throughout
the supply chain. Additionally, some brands reported
Muhammad Ahmed, Executive Vice President, initiating long-term collaborations with garment
Artistic Apparels Pvt Ltd manufacturers, academics and NGOs to secure future
supply of organic cotton.
One of the key challenges we faced in meeting Bringing our redesigned jeans to market required We have successfully used screw-based buttons
The Jeans Redesign Guidelines was the collaboration significant cross-functional collaboration internally that can be removed by an operator equipped with
with suppliers to both ensure that fabrics and at Reformation and externally with our suppliers. a simple screwdriver at the sorting stage. This was
workmanship are aligned with the criteria and to get For example, designing for circularity training and achieved through establishing a partnership with an
sufficient data points from the supplier to back up the engagement with product development teams was innovative supplier of disassemblable components.
product claims, for example, certificates. As part of vital. Clear and consistent communication and The plastic parts inside the buttons are replaced with
our Jeans Redesign journey, we have recognised the process development for sourcing, fiber, and trim substitute materials made of corn starch - a bio-
dependency between ensuring good, accurate data approval were also required. Supplier partnerships based alternative.
and having a process that ensures regular follow-ups and collaboration were key to driving innovation.
and check-ins with key suppliers. Overall, we need to shift from a competitive view to Sean Barron, CEO, Re/Done
a shared mission. The Jeans Redesign has helped us
Cem Oztat, Head of PL Sourcing and Operations, do just that - fostering a community and pushing
Zalando innovation forward in a more collaborative and
holistic way.
Similarly, the importance of initiating collaborations Carrie Freiman, Senior Director of Sustainability,
between brands, garment manufacturers, fabric Reformation
mills and farmers has been cited by a number of
participants as a critical first step in transitioning
to cellulose-based fibres produced regeneratively, By working together, fabric mills, garment
due to the long-term nature of the transition and manufacturers, brands, and retailers reported taking
investment required. action, and making joint progress to ensure jeans
are made from recycled materials from both pre- and
post-consumer textile products.
Similarly to 2021, the need to source buttons that

can be disassembled accelerated conversations with
suppliers, which triggered collaborative efforts to
find solutions. In 2023, brands also established new
partnerships with suppliers of other innovative,
disassemblable components.
SECURING LEADERSHIP BUY-IN SPARKS BUILDING CAPACITY TO Additionally, participants shared the importance of
PRODUCT INNOVATION REDESIGN PRODUCTS working with external partners to further research
and develop knowledge-building, from initiating
Participants reported that securing leadership buy-in Participants recognise the importance of internal research with academic institutions and specialised
was not only essential to bring redesigned products circular economy capacity, with 18% reporting think-tanks, to new partnerships with third-party
to market, but also fuelled innovation, learning and dedicated investments in knowledge building, from verification bodies and research centres. These
collaboration both internally and externally. training existing employees to hiring staff with partnerships demonstrate an appetite across the wider
specialised skills, and engaging external consultants. fashion industry to work collaboratively to design and
Brands including Inditex, Primark, TOMMY supply innovative solutions.
We love jeans and they have been at our core since HILFIGER, Urban Outfitters and Zalando, alongside
the beginning. Weekday believes in a circular manufacturers including Demco, have shared
fashion future. So creating jeans that are prepared the importance of bringing internal teams along
for a circular life is a natural and important step in As part of TOMMY HILFIGER’s ambition to Waste
their learning journey by exchanging solutions,
our brand’s circular journey. From the experience of Nothing and Welcome All, we have set ambitious
challenging linear ways of thinking, and bridging
making the first capsule, the team has learned that it targets that are helping us contribute towards a
conventional organisational silos to change the way
is scalable. That’s exactly the way we need to work to circular economy. In 2021 we launched a Circular
products are designed.
move towards a more circular fashion industry. Design Framework internally to help guide the design
of products that are used more, made to be made
Kim Holm, Managing Director, Weekday again, and made from safe and recycled or renewable
inputs. The curriculum and guidebook, created in
Working with the guidelines has enabled ASOS’ denim partnership with the Centre for Sustainable Fashion,
teams to channel their creativity through a focused were used to train TOMMY HILFIGER designers and
framework. The development process has created product developers on circular design strategies.
The Jeans Redesign initiative enhanced the cross-
new challenges for our designers and they have used
functional collaboration within Chloé, spurring
their creative skills to problem solve, for example, the Esther Verburg, EVP Sustainable Business
innovation and circularity within our design process
disassembly requirements encouraged our teams to & Innovation, TOMMY HILFIGER Global
and reducing the environmental impact of our
develop new metalware and design different fastenings
Circular Denim.
such as the self-fastening fabric corset back for the
bralette. The process has helped our teams to consider
Aude Vergne, Chief Sustainability Officer, Chloé
the full product lifecycle of a garment and their
personal impact when making design decisions.
Rebecca Garner, Senior Sustainability Partner, ASOS

GOING BEYOND JEANS: CIRCULAR DESIGN Some companies pushed even further, building on the A small number of teams who had progressed
PRINCIPLES ARE INCREASINGLY BEING momentum gained from The Jeans Redesign project through the ASOS circular design education
APPLIED TO OTHER GARMENTS and applying their learnings across a much wider programme created our first circular design
range of garments, with organisations including collection which launched in September 2020.
While in 2021 very few participants applied circular Primark¹⁰, TOMMY HILFIGER¹¹ and Zalando¹² Fast forward to 2022, and every Commercial team
design principles beyond jeans, the group made launching circular design guidelines. across ASOS was involved in the creation of our SS22
significant progress in 2023, with 38% of participants and AW22 Circular Design Collections, reflecting the
applying the principles to other denim garments, wider rollout of education across teams, including
including jackets, shirts and dresses. our Circular Design Guidebook. Through our
The Jeans Redesign collection has proven to be renewed partnership with the Centre for Sustainable
A further 29% have reported applying the principles a great prototype for us to refine and scale our Fashion, we gathered lessons learned and feedback
beyond denim to garments, including jumpers, tops, broader circular product and circular design efforts from the product development teams. This is helping
and accessories such as hats and bags. Participants across the business. We’ve learnt the importance us to refine our future process for developing circular
such as H&M Group also built on their previously of maintaining our fashion DNA whilst applying products and support the implementation of our
launched Circular Product Development Guideline⁹ to circular principles to our products. Our next circular design strategies at scale.
explore applying circular design principles to shoes. challenge will be to apply these principles across a
Garment manufacturer Hirdaramani has extended greater variety of products & clothing types. Rebecca Garner, Senior Sustainability Partner, ASOS
circular design principles to a workwear line.
Nicholas Lambert, Circular Product Lead,
Primark Cares, Primark
From the starting point of redesigning jeans,
participants have progressed beyond proof of
Inspired by the insights and learnings from concept and can now harness the creativity they’ve
The Jeans Redesign project by the Ellen MacArthur Meanwhile, ASOS built on their previously launched applied at a product level to ensure circular design
Foundation and leveraging our circular ambitions circular design handbook (which debuted in 2018) becomes the norm.
as a company, we created a Circular Product and continued to collaborate with the Centre for
Development Guideline for our teams, called Sustainable Fashion at the London College of Fashion
Circulator. We have made the Guide available for to develop their ASOS Circular Design Handbook.¹³
any brand, designer, or product team to use, learn This is an interactive resource created to help internal
and align their designs to circular principles and teams, external designers, students and fashion
we will continue to share the latest learnings as brands design and create fashion products aligned
we move ahead. with a circular economy for fashion.
Sarah Hayes, Business Expert Circular Product

Development, H&M Group
The solution pathways are clear.

Participants of The Jeans Redesign are overcoming some barriers and surfacing innovation, proving that many circular design
solutions are no longer a technical capability question, but a design choice.
The Jeans Redesign participants set out on a journey Insights are laid out in The Guidelines: Progress,
It is now clear where technical solutions are available
to make jeans fit for a circular economy, collectively Solutions, Barriers on pages 21-27, with further details and are ready to be applied more widely in fashion
working towards shared minimum guidelines with on actions taken by participants to produce jeans businesses, providing a number of pathways for
common definitions. As a result, 72% of participants that meet the guideline criteria, as well as outlining organisations to scale circular design practices
overcame design and innovation challenges to bring solutions identified, and barriers that remain to be across their collections. At the same time, technical
products to life. overcome. These insights are split into four categories: challenges remain for a number of criteria, which
require more direct action and investment to surface a
While some businesses have shown high levels of 1 For certain criteria, it is no longer scalable solution.
ambition by bringing to market redesigned fabric a question of technical capability,
and jeans, others have been more conservative in but a design choice The efforts of The Jeans Redesign participants
their approach. Of those that have been able to bring over the past two years have clarified where
fabric or jeans compliant with the guidelines to 2 Progress has been made to scale previously investment and innovation are needed. Now the
market, many have exceeded the minimum bar and limited solutions solution pathways are clear, there is no reason to
some have redesigned up to 100% of their portfolio. delay progress.
In the group that has not yet brought compliant jeans 3 Action has been taken to surface innovation
or fabric to market during the project (July 2021 -
January 2023), several have taken actions to establish 4 Remaining design challenges and material
processes that will enable them to produce collections innovation gaps to bridge are clear
in the near future. A few (4%) brands are expected to
bring redesigned jeans to market by the end of 2023.
The participants who reported being currently unable
to meet the criteria cited a number of challenges,
including the organisational change needed to
redesign garments.
This is a summary of insights from the individual

participant reports, for the full details, alongside case
studies see the website.
Without systems change, the progress that has been made

to redesign products will not be fully realised.
Participants of The Jeans Redesign are starting to move beyond redesigning products to be fit for a circular economy to increasingly offering
services and business models to deliver them and keep them in use. Unlocking these models at scale will require a radical system change.
BUSINESSES ARE INVESTING TO BRING brands and garment manufacturers have reported ORGANISATIONS ARE SENDING DEMAND
REDESIGNED PRODUCTS TO MARKET higher sell-through rates for their redesigned jeans. SIGNALS STIMULATING THE NECESSARY
Brands reported the average sell-through rate of their INFRASTRUCTURE AND INPUTS
In 2023, participants of The Jeans Redesign continued redesigned jeans was 78% which, according to experts,
to report paying premiums to source and certify is higher than the industry baseline, demonstrating In publicly committing to, and taking action to bring
recycled and organic content, and for disassemblable the power of the industry to shape desire towards a redesigned products to market, 100 organisations
components. Alongside this, garment manufacturers circular economy for fashion. In parallel, garment from across the value chain are sending collective
and fabric mills predominantly reported making manufacturers have also reported high demand for demand signals to the wider industry. Sourcing
investments in innovative technologies to meet their redesigned jeans, with up to 25% higher sell- cellulose-based fibres from organic and regenerative
the guidelines, including reducing water usage. through rate than the non-redesigned jeans in their methods, use of increased percentages of recycled
Maritaş Denim reported investing in research and portfolio. This presents a significant opportunity content, and more disassemblable hardware solutions
development studies for alternatives to stretch for those willing to raise their ambitions and make are some of the technical areas that suppliers will need
fabrics that remain difficult to recycle, and Artistic circular design a core way of doing business. to respond to. Such signals are crucial for stimulating
Milliners reported investing in fixed assets to improve the development of infrastructure that supports a
mechanical fibre recycling and fibre sorting. circular economy for fashion, such as the supply of
preferred feedstocks, and the collection, sorting and
A third of the participant group reported making Being aligned with the requirements of The Jeans recycling processes that keep materials in circulation.
investments collectively totalling over USD 39 million Redesign allows us to enter new markets. There are
in areas such as knowledge building (18%), fixed assets an increasing number of clients who are interested One example of organisations sending demand
(17%), inventory (17%), capabilities (15%), and M&A (12%) in making sustainable collections and it makes us signals can be seen through the lens of post-
to create fabric and jeans in line with the guidelines. proud to have the ability and knowledge to do so. consumer recycled content. In a circular economy for
With many participants yet to submit investment data, fashion, sourcing post-consumer recycled content
total investments are likely to be substantially higher. Jorge Bunchicoff, CEO, Blue Design America from apparel-to-apparel recycling is the preferred
source of recycled feedstock as it allows the fashion
While investments are required today, some industry to continuously cycle the materials it puts
participants have reported that they have accepted on the market, and avoid material value loss within
lower margins on redesigned products to avoid its own and other industries. By publicly committing
passing additional costs on to customers. However, to source and purchase a minimum percentage of
post-consumer recycled content, participants help MUD Jeans has an established leasing model, which Achieving true circularity necessitates a holistic
decouple from the consumption of finite resources from 2016 has supported free repairs during the systems change and a continuous learning
and stimulate demand for collection and recycling. jeans lease. While also collecting old jeans back from mindset; we need a 360 approach, with step-by-
A small number of ambitious participants, including customers for free, enabling MUD Jeans to include up step action across every stage of our operations.
H&M¹⁴ and Monki¹⁵ have pushed this further by to 40% post-consumer recycled denim in their jeans. From responsible sourcing and innovative design
publicly sharing their commitments to include a This demonstrates the power of combining product to sustainable supply chains and visionary
minimum of 20% post-consumer recycled content in and service design. Primark detailed their programme business models, every aspect must contribute to a
their entire jeans portfolio by the end of 2023. of free repair workshops hosted in stores in the UK, ROI, regenerative fashion ecosystem.
Netherlands and Germany, with plans to scale further
in 2023. Additionally, some brands reported initiating Transforming an entire system may seem daunting,
PARTICIPANTS ARE TAKING ACTION collaborations, for example, Marks and Spencer but progress lies in simultaneously addressing
BEYOND PRODUCT DESIGN reported launching rental trials in collaboration with and interconnecting its various components. We
HireStreet for jeans and other products. must always keep the bigger picture in mind while
In 2021 6% of brands reported new models through diligently working on each separate element.
which products can be accessed. In response to these
initial efforts, the guidelines were updated and the Fortunately, the business case for sustainable
optional criteria ‘offering jeans to market via services As part of our wider Primark Cares strategy, transformation has never been stronger or more
and business models that keep jeans at their highest we’ve introduced a repair programme to help our appealing. We have witnessed positive commercial
value’ was introduced. Two years later, 71% of brands customers to keep their clothes for longer. To date, results over the past decade, proving that
have reported having an ongoing service or business we’ve held over 100 repair workshops in-store, and sustainability and profitability are not mutually
model in place with participants most commonly also launched a series of online repair tutorials exclusive. By embracing circularity, we can unlock
reporting offering collection/take-back (60%), resale helping people to learn basic hand sewing skills new avenues of success while safeguarding our
(29%) and repair services (27%). and how to attach zips and buttons. We know that planet for future generations.
educating colleagues and customers on repair is only
A further 36% of brands have reported that business a small step forward in our journey to becoming a Esther Verburg, EVP Sustainable Business
models/services are in development for the next more sustainable business, but want to use our scale & Innovation, TOMMY HILFIGER Global
financial quarter. 9% of brands, including Zalando for good to drive awareness around repair.
(repair), Reformation (resale, collection/take-back),
Weekday (resale), and American Eagle (collection/ Nicholas Lambert, Circular Product Lead, Building on the momentum generated by The Jeans
take-back) have reported an ambition to reach a Primark Cares, Primark Redesign, it is time to accelerate action to redesign
target percentage of their portfolio (percentage not the system these products enter.
disclosed) to be delivered through circular business
models by end of 2023, demonstrating their ambition While it is difficult to directly attribute a 12-fold
to move beyond pilot and make these business increase in uptake of services and business models
activities mainstream. to keep jeans at their highest value to participation in
The Jeans Redesign, the momentum is nonetheless
promising. In a circular economy design must align
with the business model that will deliver the product
- for example, durability and the ability to repair the
products are critical when considering a rental model.
Title
The
guidelines:
progress,
solutions,
barriers
* Note all statistics in this section relate to

action taken by the participants to which
the criteria applied, irrespective of
whether they brought fabric or jeans
to market by the 31st of January 2023.
Therefore percentages can exceed
the 72% of participants that
met the guidelines. PHOTO: HNST
1 For certain criteria, it is no longer a question

of technical capability, but a design choice.
The most commonly applied solutions in 2021 – organic content, rivet elimination, and safe chemicals –
remain in use in 2023. Alongside these established solutions, participants have widely adopted a further five
criteria: the use of 98% cellulose-based content, care labelling, durability testing, water usage for denim fabric,
and safe wastewater. Some commonly applied solutions, such as rivet elimination and care labelling, are no
longer dependent on technical capability, but upon design choices.
ORGANIC CONTENT organic cotton throughout their supply chain for

their Jeans Redesign orders. To enable this, many
More than 80% of participants have been able to source participant brands and manufacturers reported
organic cotton. While this represents a percentage requesting proof of organic content certification from
decrease compared to 2021 (93% of participants), the their suppliers (most commonly reporting Global
absolute number of participants (73) meeting this Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)¹⁶or Organic Content
requirement remained the same across the two years, Standard (OCS)¹⁷ before placing orders. Additionally,
and garment manufacturers, such as Hirdaramani brand JCPenney reported initiating long-term
have reported experiencing an increasing demand for collaborations with their supply chain to secure the
organic cotton across their customer brands. Some future of their organic cotton sourcing. For example,
participants, such as the brand Weekday, have scaled working with garment manufacturer Soorty’s organic
the percentage of their jeans portfolio that meet The cotton initiative (SOCI), who are collaborating with PHOTO: HNST
Jeans Redesign guidelines, growing from 2 styles in 1,300 farmers in Naal, Pakistan.¹⁸
2019 to 40% of their jeans portfolio in 2023. Weekday’s
styles incorporate organic cotton and recycled content
(in a 70%/30% or 60%/40% split) to meet the guidelines. 98% CELLULOSE-BASED FIBRE CONTENT Since 2021, limiting non-cellulose-based fibres
However, many participants continue to report to 2% while delivering styles and comfort that
common challenges such as limited market availability 89% of participants have ensured that a minimum appeal to customers, including jeans with stretch,
and premium sourcing and certification prices as a of 98% cellulose-based fibres are included in the has consistently been reported as one of the most
barrier to scaling organic content. textile composition of redesigned jeans, which challenging requirements. This barrier remains in
enables materials to be recycled at the highest 2023, with most participants commonly taking action
The importance of collaboration across the supply quality and value. to redesign their ‘rigid’ styles. See Jeans with stretch
chain has been cited by a number of participants as for further details.
crucial to successfully sourcing organic cotton. In Mono-material garments can be more effectively
particular, brands and manufacturers have reported recycled than those made out of multiple material
working closely with their suppliers to ensure blends. To that end, 62% of participants used more
certifications are in place and tracked throughout than 98% cellulose-based fibres and 20% reached
the supply chain. ASOS, BAM Bamboo Clothing, and 100% cellulose-based content across all their reported
GUESS have reported attaining chain of custody of Jeans Redesign styles.
CARE LABELLING The number and type of durability tests that are the amount of fabric that can be recycled after use.
conducted by participants after washing continues Less than half of the brands that successfully reported
84% of brands and garment manufacturers provided users to vary, with participants conducting between 1 and eliminating rivets in 2021 continued to do so in
with information on how to care for jeans visibly on the 7 tests, a slight consolidation compared to the range 2023, commonly reporting still using rivets to deliver
garment, an increase of 10% from 2021. The information conducted in 2021 (1-22 tests). The most commonly ‘heritage styles’ to customers. At the same time, more
included guidance on reducing washing frequency, reported type of durability tests are tear strength and than 70% of garment manufacturers reported they
washing at low temperatures, and avoiding tumble drying. tensile strength, followed by dimensional stability, have the technical capabilities to eliminate rivets and
60% of brands reported printing labelling onto the pocket abrasion resistance, and colour fastness. Further alternatives to substitute them and meet the guidelines,
bags, while 23% of brands and manufacturers used QR investigation is needed to establish a minimum but continue to add hardware components to garments
codes to link to more detailed online care instructions. standard and harmonise durability performance where buyer orders specify them. Vertically integrated
measurement across the fashion industry. fabric mill and garment manufacturer Soorty reported
21% of this group went further still, empowering users that as manufacturers, they need to follow the
with additional, but necessary, knowledge (visibly on However, a number of small and medium (SME) directions of buyers. If they request a specific technique
the garment) to maintain the physical and emotional brands have reported meeting this requirement is for the hardware components they have to create jeans
appeal of their jeans, most commonly reporting providing costly, time-consuming, and energy intensive. Despite in line with the order.
information on available take-back programmes or these reported challenges, more than three-quarters
recycling ability. See Circular business models for of SMEs ensured they met the minimum durability Technical solutions exist today to eliminate rivets and
further details. testing requirements. Additionally, some participants deliver style and strength. Garment manufacturer
such as ASOS reported innovating to unlock efficiency Cross Textiles shared, “It’s firstly a mindset, actions
advancements in wash testing. start at the design level. Understanding the ‘why’
DURABILITY TESTING behind the design guidelines empowers designers to
become more creative. Everything is less difficult once
87% of participants have assessed the durability of jeans RIVET ELIMINATION the customer and we, as a garment manufacturer,
against elementary criteria of testing; whether they can align on what we aim to achieve.”
withstand a minimum of 30 home laundries. Participants More than 70% of brands voluntarily removed metal
including Black Peony, Good American and Triarchy rivets from their products, increasing the recyclability
exceeded this by testing for 35 washes. Redesigned jeans of the jeans and eliminating waste by design. Of those,
must retain their ability to meet the participant’s usual 38% eliminated the need for them entirely, and 49%
minimum durability requirements for ‘as-new’ jeans even reported substituting rivets with bar tacks, reinforced
after 30 home laundries. stitching, or embroidery techniques. Such design
alternatives are being explored by brands like Frame,
Research to develop The Jeans Redesign guidelines, in who developed the ‘drivet’; an embroidery in 100%
collaboration with multiple brands, manufacturers and Tencel thread that mimics the look of a traditional
recyclers, revealed an inconsistent approach to garment rivet at the pocket scoops. Meanwhile, H&M developed
durability measurement. Despite individual companies a standardised library of circular bar-tacks to utilise
testing for various performance indicators, this lack across jeans styles.
of alignment on specific durability measures makes it
difficult to set baselines or make effective comparisons. Rivets are difficult to remove for recyclers and, as a
Ensuring jeans are able to withstand a minimum of 30 consequence, larger parts of the upper fabric of jeans
home laundries offers a starting point on the journey are cut off and landfilled or incinerated. In 2021, 65% PHOTO: BLUE DESIGN AMERICA
towards industry-wide durability alignment. of brands eliminated rivets by design, maximising
SAFE CHEMICALS However, 20% of participants remained modest in their WATER USAGE FOR DENIM FABRIC
actions to ensure products are made with safe inputs,
96% of participants have met the minimum criteria on only meeting ZDHC MRSL Level 1 as a minimum. 96% of fabric mills ensured the water volume used for
phasing out toxic substances (Level 1, Zero Discharge Further work is needed to deliver physical durability denim fabric was a maximum of 30 litres per metre
Of Hazardous Chemicals Manufacturing Restricted while ensuring all chemicals and processes used to (L/m), remaining consistent with 2021. Additionally,
Substance List),¹⁹ consistent with 2021). make garments are not only safer but safe. 87% of participants decreased further, using 18.84 L/m
on average, with KG Fabriks reporting the least water
In a circular economy, substances that are hazardous used (6.5L/m).
to health or the environment are designed out of SAFE WASTEWATER
processes to allow for safe material circulation The way denim is made – including fabric dyeing,
and ensure that no pollutants are released into the All (100%) of fabric mills met the minimum standard of sizing, and finishing processes – in a conventional
environment. 54% of participants exceeded the the ZDHC Wastewater Guidelines²⁰ (including testing linear model is water-intensive. However, a number
minimum criteria (a 39% increase since 2021), and and reporting), an increase from 95% in 2021. of fabric mills reported improving practices to
commonly reported meeting ZDHC MRSL Level 3, continuously lower the amount of water needed, while
ZDHC MRSL Level 2, verified using the ZDHC Further action is needed to ensure wastewater others are recycling their water. Artistic Milliners
Gateway or Jeanologia® EIM (Environmental Impact discharge does not contain hazardous chemicals reported recycling 85% of their water, and being
Measuring) software. Increasing ambition is evident which can have a significant impact on the able to manufacture some fabrics using just 8 litres
across the group, and garment manufacturer Taypa environment and human health²¹. See Safe chemicals of water per metre. Some participants innovated in
reported they do not allow any chemicals below ZDHC for further details. waterless and foam dyeing methods and others, such
level 3 to enter their washing facility. as Advance Denim, reported innovating to create a
closed-loop denim production system which would
recycle 100% of wastewater. Vertically integrated unit
Azgard9 reported making design changes to chemical
usage to lower water usage downstream by designing
out using large quantities of chemicals, which results
in less water usage to wash off at later stages. While
progress is being made to increasingly lower water
usage and improve wastewater recycling at the design
and manufacture stage, further efforts are required to
lower water usage at all stages of denim production,
from fibre growing to manufacture and use, reuse,
remaking or recycling.
PHOTO: HNST
2 Progress has been made to scale previously

limited solutions.
In 2021, participants reported that, while available, post-consumer recycled content was costly and
presented trade-offs with durability requirements. Meanwhile, finding hardware solutions that successfully
prohibit conventional electroplating (a technique that generates hazardous waste) was consistently reported
as amongst the toughest to achieve. Both requirements have seen significant positive progress from PHOTO: HNST
participants in 2023.
RECYCLED CONTENT an increasing amount of recycled materials. ASOS In particular, the group demonstrated significant
reported working with fabric mill Kipas and garment progress in eliminating conventional electroplating,
In 2021, more than half of the participants voluntarily manufacturer Chantuque to make this a reality. compared to 2021 where only one-third of brands and
included recycled content in their redesigned jeans. Meanwhile, Reformation reported partnering with garment manufacturers reported achieving this criteria.
In recognition of this progress, the guidelines vertically integrated manufacturer Strom and fabric It was consistently cited as one of the most difficult to
were updated to include a minimum of 5% recycled mill Bossa to progress towards zero-waste practices, meet. Today, participants such as Cross Textiles reported
content (by weight) in jeans or fabric. In 2023 83% of and launched their denim collection made from achieving this through eliminating hardware finishing
participants ensured they met this new minimum bar, fabric scraps recycled from the factory floor. completely: “The choice of material is important at the
and, of those, 88% exceeded it. Some manufacturers are implementing internal design stage. When using pure copper, the full button
systems to provide their own supply of pre and can easily be reused with almost zero loss of material.
The maximum amount of post-consumer recycled post-recycled content in-house, such as vertically In comparison, mixed metals are almost impossible to
content participants reported being able to incorporate integrated unit Azgard9. circulate in an effective way.” Others have substituted it
in jeans, while still meeting the other requirements with an alternative to conventional electroplating, with
for durability has remained steady since 2021. Brands 7% of brands using YKK AcroPlating.
such as Chloé, Triarchy, and Levi’s included the SAFE PROCESSES
highest percentage of post-consumer recycled content Progress remained steady in eliminating the processes
(87%, 43%, and 40%, respectively). However, other The majority (89%) of brands and manufacturers of stone finishing, sandblasting, and the use of
participants, in particular small and medium brands, met the minimum requirement to eliminate the potassium permanganate (PP) (94% in 2021).
have indicated this remains a challenge; unspun processes of conventional electroplating, stone One participant reported eliminating finishing
reported that there remains work to be done to get the finishing, sandblasting and the use of potassium processes completely. Other participants reported
quality of recycled fabrics on par with that of virgin permanganate (PP). These processes, associated with substituting conventional finishing processes with
materials, whilst being as durable as the fabrics that decreasing fabric quality and garment durability²², alternatives such as laser finishing (79%), ozone
contain virgin fibres. cause significant environmental impacts such as the finishing (68%), enzyme finishing (64%), “Eco” stones
generation of hazardous waste²³, and serious human 45%) and abrasive plates (11%). Further investigation is
Participants commonly reported that cross-value health harms, including skin irritation²⁴ and damage to needed to understand the impact of these techniques
chain collaboration remains critical to achieving respiratory passages.²⁵,²⁶ on the durability of garments.
this requirement. By working together, fabric mills,
garment manufacturers, and brands were able to
make joint progress to ensure jeans are made from
3 Action has been taken

to surface innovation.
In 2021, there was both an innovation gap and an implementation gap for certain criteria. For some requirements,
such as hardware that can be disassembled and built-in traceability, early solutions existed but action remained
limited. In other areas – such as regenerative sourcing – action was extremely limited. In 2023, design solutions
and technologies now exist and are being increasingly used for disassemblable buttons and garment traceability,
while notable action has been taken to advance the sourcing of cellulose-based fibres with nature-positive
outcomes, an important step towards the sourcing of regenerative fibres.
REGENERATIVE SOURCING In addition, 9% of brands including Frame, HNST, approach to definition, measurement and data
and TOMMY HILFIGER have reported actively availability across the fashion industry as a significant
One brand, Reformation, has continued to use taking steps to transition to sourcing virgin inputs challenge. Additionally, participants commonly cited
cellulose-based fibres with nature-positive outcomes from regenerative sources, and have reported their the long-term nature of the transition to regenerative
in 2023, and remains the only participant to do so. ambitions to start to incorporate regeneratively sourcing, and investment required as critical barriers
However, there has been a hub of participant activity sourced cotton in products by the end of 2023. to scale. Ensuring cellulose-based fibres have specific,
towards regenerative sourcing. Collectively, these activities are reflective of an measurable and evidenced nature-positive outcomes
industry that is increasing its ambition level and (such as increased levels of carbon sequestration and
Manufacturers and mills have initiated discussions moving closer towards regenerative sourcing. improved soil health) offers a starting point for the
and future collaborations to be able to source fibres industry to move towards regenerative sourcing.
with nature-positive outcomes, Advance Denim has Two years on, Reformation has continued to work
reported initiating work with Good Earth Cotton®. with Good Earth Cotton®, which uses agricultural
Fabric mill Bossa has reported planning regenerative practices linked to observed regenerative outcomes
projects in Turkey with farmers. The importance of for nature at the farm level, including; increased
collaboration across the supply chain has been cited by carbon sequestration in the soil, and improved
a number of participants as crucial to be able to secure native vegetation stocks. Regenerative production
future supply; Maritaş Denim shared that they joined a was supported by a ‘cradle-to-farm gate’ greenhouse
project with academics and farmers in Turkey to both gas emissions audit, and traced through the use of
source regenerative cotton and generate learnings on FibreTrace®, blockchain technology.
challenges and best practices.
Despite pockets of promising progress, a significant
hurdle remains to be overcome for organisations to
consistently and credibly report sourcing cellulose-
based fibres with nature-positive outcomes, a step
on the journey towards regeneratively sourced fibres.
The certification landscape is still emerging, and is as
yet unconsolidated (Good Earth Cotton®, regenagri®
and Regenerative Organic Certification®), with
participants commonly reporting the inconsistent
While participants report that design solutions and BUILT IN TRACEABILITY

technology have enabled a reduction in labour
intensity of disassemblable hardware at point of 85% of brands and manufacturers ensured it was
assembly, participants report that key challenges easy to identify redesigned jeans for recycling during
– specifically, the continued labour intensity of collection and sorting, representing a 6.5-fold increase
removing components during the manufacturing from 2021. The effective sorting of jeans at scale
process and deconstruction phase – remain to be can be made possible by the availability of accurate
overcome in order to scale. information about their capability to be recycled (for
example textile composition and disassemblable
Many participants reported that it was challenging components). This information can be made available
to ensure the buttons were disassemblable whilst still to the sorter via labelling, or technologies incorporated
meeting durability requirements, and some brands into the garment.
reported paying premiums for components that are
easier to disassemble while also facing difficulties The most commonly reported technique utilised
with minimum order quantities. George at Asda was labelling (62%), followed by QR codes (23%),
reported limited availability and affordability of stud and traceable fibre technology (5%). While uptake
buttons that can be easily disassembled; BAM Bamboo of advanced technologies, beyond simple labelling,
PHOTO: BLUE DESIGN AMERICA Clothing shared: “We developed unscrewable buttons remains limited, QR codes experienced the greatest
with our trim supplier who had huge minimums increase in adoption. Brand Weekday reported:
which have taken us years to get through”. “Weekday Jeans has used QR codes to be able to trace
HARDWARE THAT CAN BE the redesigned jeans in the value chain. QR code
DISASSEMBLED - BUTTONS labelling was the best option when we wanted to scale
this fast, and where we could add information that is
44% of brands used buttons that can be disassembled easily accessible also for our customers, which we saw
without the need to cut any fabric, an increase from was a plus.”
2021 (32%). Screw-based buttons were the most
commonly used hardware solutions (36%), followed by
clip-based buttons (7%).
In 2021, while disassemblable buttons were found to

be available, participants reported that options were
limited. As a result, in 2023, participants reported
an acceleration of conversations with suppliers to
collaboratively find solutions that meet the guidelines.
Re/Done, for example, established a new partnership
with an innovative supplier of disassemblable
components, resulting in the use of screw-based
buttons that can be removed by an operator
equipped with a screwdriver at the sorting stage. Five
participants reported working with supplier YKK to
meet this guideline requirement.
4 Remaining design challenges and material

innovation gaps to bridge are clear.
Significant design challenges and innovation gaps remain for a few criteria. In 2021, participants consistently
reported limiting non-cellulose-based fibres to 2% as one of the toughest requirements, a material innovation
challenge that remains in 2023. Similarly, disassemblable thread and removable zippers remain significant
innovation gaps to be overcome.
JEANS WITH STRETCH customers while using a minimum of 98% cellulose- disassembled, cutting is often used, which creates
based fibres and fabric mill Maritaş Denim has initiated significant amounts of fabric waste. Continuing to
In 2021, limiting non-cellulose-based fibres to 2% research and development to overcome this gap. innovate and adopt existing stitching solutions that
was consistently reported as one of the toughest enable disassembly is vital for remaking and recycling
requirements for participants to meet, while still To ensure materials can be recycled at the highest garments without waste.
delivering styles and comfort that appeal to customers, quality and value, mono-material garments should be
including jeans with stretch. This material innovation prioritised over garments made out of multiple material In 2021, no participants reported finding a solution for
challenge remains in 2023, with the majority of blends. By design, material choice should align with zippers that can be removed and reused or recycled
participants electing to redesign ‘rigid’ styles of available recycling technology so that it can practically without losing fabric during disassembly. In 2023, this
their jeans portfolio to meet the guidelines. See 98% be recycled after use, and further investigation is remained the case, and the majority of participants
cellulose-based fibre content for further details. needed to assess the possibility of recycling this fabric (35%) opted to remove zippers altogether from the
into new fibres using widely available technologies. design of their jeans, commonly opting to use button
One brand, Triarchy, has taken the decision to design flys designed for screw-based disassembly (36%)
out stretch from their jeans, while HNST stated they fastenings instead. Components that cannot be easily
had made an intentional choice to redesign their HARDWARE AND STITCHING THAT disassembled for removal can cause considerable
jeans to avoid using elastane in the fabric blend. Other CAN BE DISASSEMBLED waste at the recycling stage as they are often removed
participants such as H&M reported producing jeans by cutting. To maximise the amount of fabric that can
that meet the guidelines, with reduced stretch content: As in 2021, only one brand, Unspun, has reported be recycled, further innovation is required to ensure
“We managed to reduce the stretch content to 1% in a using thread that can be dissolved, allowing fabrics design strategies allow fastenings, including zips, to be
few jeans styles across womenswear and menswear, and zippers to be disassembled for reuse or recycling disassembled for reuse or recycling.
whilst still adhering to the 98% cellulose-based fibres”. without losing any fabric: “The entire garment is
stitched with Resortecs®’ Smart Stitch™ thread. It is
In 2021, BAM Bamboo Clothing reported bringing fused at high temperatures and allows the zipper to
to market a solution to make ‘skinny’ and ‘slim’ style be automatically separated during the disassembly
jeans with stretch in line with The Jeans Redesign process (by method of heat application from a
guidelines, designing a material mix of 98% cellulose- specialised oven)”. Garment manufacturer Frontline
based fibres (73% cotton, 25% viscose) and 2% has reported initiating testing with Resortecs® threads
elastane. This continued in 2023. Other participants to potentially bring products to market with stitching
are innovating to deliver ‘super-stretch’ styles to that can be disassembled. If stitching cannot be easily
Title
Calls to
action
PHOTO: H&M
Calls to action
To drive the industry forward, the Ellen MacArthur Foundation
calls on businesses and policymakers to:
MAKE MAKE MOVE FROM

CIRCULAR THE PRODUCT
DESIGN ECONOMICS REDESIGN
THE NORM WORK TO SYSTEMS
REDESIGN
The Jeans Redesign has provided a starting point Similarly, while businesses have built on insights from As the environmental and economic impacts of
for businesses to align on increasingly ambitious The Jeans Redesign and taken steps to collectively climate change, biodiversity loss, waste and pollution
common design criteria, and explore the feasibility challenge conventional models and unlock creative are becoming increasingly felt, affecting fashion
of creating a circular economy for fashion by solutions, pushing this progress to the point of supply chains and after-use systems, implementing
focusing on the product redesign of an iconic scale remains stymied by the current landscape: at a universal approach to policy reform is vital. In the
garment - jeans. However, in order to make circular present, circular products are still entering a linear pursuit of this common goal, it is important to avoid
design the norm, businesses and policymakers need system. Business-led action, such as the progress a cross-sector patchwork of national and regional
to take action now. made by participants of The Jeans Redesign, is key solutions. Businesses and policymakers must
to accelerate progress towards a circular economy therefore work hand-in-hand to ensure that product,
Despite the dedicated efforts by a number of for fashion. However, voluntary commitments alone material, and system-level learnings from The Jeans
participants to redesign jeans, circular economy will not be enough to enact the system-level change Redesign are scaled in parallel with a wider industry
efforts remain largely on the periphery. Although needed. Since governments have the power to inform, transformation. For such alignment to be achieved, it
individual successes – from overcoming innovation incentivise, regulate, and develop the market to enable is critical to agree on a common direction of travel.
gaps to carving out solution pathways – have circular products, services, and systems to succeed,
demonstrated that circular design can become the policymakers also have a significant opportunity to
norm, it is yet some way from being the norm. help shape the future of fashion.
Make circular design the norm

- scale to include all jeans and other garments
BUSINESSES Businesses also need to ensure that high-level

targets set at CEO level trickle down, and are
All businesses in the fashion By bringing 100+ organisations together around a reflected in core operational objectives and key
industry to: Apply circular design common vision²⁷, The Jeans Redesign has enabled performance indicators at an individual and
principles to all garments. participants to acquire and apply key learnings in departmental level. Performance indicators which
circular design and help turn ambition to action. today serve the linear model – that is, to increase
But the project is more than just a launchpad or sales of products made from virgin materials - need
entry point. Today, it has evolved into a powerful to be re-developed across the industry to make
– and practical – demonstrator of a circular economy circular design the norm. This must be combined
for fashion. with rethinking how businesses engage customers
to keep garments in use with carefully designed
However, the pace of change needed to transform incentives and elevated customer experiences.²⁸
the fashion industry from one which actively
contributes to climate change, biodiversity loss, In order for these commitments and measurements
waste, and pollution into one which is regenerative to meaningfully translate into accelerated progress,
by design demands a significant step change in businesses must invest in building the skills
scope and scale. (See Call to Action 3) and mindsets needed to overcome legacy linear
thinking. By pursuing educational and capacity-
In order to fully capture the economic and building programmes in circular design, businesses
environmental value of a circular economy for can not only elevate internal knowledge, but also
fashion, businesses must ensure the products unlock innovation and attract further investment.
they design are physically durable, emotionally
durable, and can be remade or recycled at the end For each affirmative action businesses take to
of their usable life. But making garments fit for a further the scope and scale of their existing circular
circular economy will not be enough if their internal design practices, it is important that collaboration
organisational and cross-industry collaboration with peers and across the entire value chain is also
conditions are not also fit for a circular economy. championed.
To counter this mindset challenge and mainstream By combining their creativity, collaborating
circular design, businesses should publicly commit around key indicators, and sharing their
to circular design by securing and communicating learnings, businesses can together apply circular
senior leadership buy-in. design principles to all garments.
Make circular design the norm

- scale to include all jeans and other garments
POLICYMAKERS Typically, product policies - such as the EU’s

Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation²⁹
Policymakers to: implement The Jeans Redesign demonstrated that circular design - define performance criteria at the level of
mandatory product policies, is not utopian, but can and should become the norm. To the individual product. To be most effective,
deliver a harmonised approach, scale this approach across markets, and to mobilise the however, product policies should also consider
and set a minimum bar for all necessary innovation, product policies are key. collection, sorting, repair and recirculation
systems for the products in scope. By moving
products on the market.
Product policies focus on extending the use of materials beyond the individual product, product policies
and/or products, and improving product footprints. can help build a system that not only sees better
They define standardised metrics on aspects such products put on the market, but also ensures they
as durability and recyclability, setting a minimum, are circulated at the highest utility at all times.
mandatory ambition level as a starting point for the
industry. Building on voluntary commitments, such To make circular design the norm, and ensure
as The Jeans Redesign, product policies can deliver circular products do not end up stranded in a
a mandatory and harmonised approach, setting a linear system, an acceleration of policy efforts
minimum bar for all products on the market. This is is required.
a fundamental driver to rapidly scale the adoption of
circular economy principles.
Make the economics work

- price in the true cost to level the playing field
BUSINESSES constraints at present, to scale. In parallel to

pricing, therefore, businesses need to accelerate
All businesses in the fashion Our current extractive economy generates significant the investments already made to enable not only
industry to: value and account negative externalities – related to climate change, redesigned fabric and jeans to be fit for a circular
for the true cost of materials and biodiversity loss, waste and pollution – at all stages, economy, but to develop the skills required to create
production processes in the price accumulating over time. In today’s linear system, based further circular economy opportunities through
on price competition, the true cost of products to society continued – and continual – upfront investment
of products.
is not accounted for. As such, products which have in organisational capacity building, innovation
been redesigned according to the principles of circular technologies, and material premiums.
design – such as the garments produced by participants
of The Jeans Redesign – face a loss of competitiveness Fibre sourcing is a key area in which to implement
in a linear system. While these products may be fit for a transparent and true costing across the supply
circular economy, the way in which business currently chain. Cellulose-based fibres which can demonstrate
interacts with the wider system in which their products nature-positive outcomes such as increased levels
flow is not optimised for their success. of carbon sequestration and improved soil health
represent an opportunity to value and account for
To ensure that circular design, circular products, and true cost sourcing. Brands that understand the
circular economy decision-making can become the environmental impacts of sourcing decisions –
norm, we need to level the playing field. To ensure by accounting for the negative externalities such
effective competition, all businesses need to accurately as pollution or worker health impacts – will be
reflect the true cost of a product, including those related better placed to demand improved processes and
to environmental and social externalities. Internalising materials from their supply chains. For instance, it
the costs of materials and production processes has previously been estimated that if the true cost of
– for example, by calculating the impact of GHG conventional cotton cultivation in India accounted
emissions, capturing the economic loss of biodiversity for negative environmental and societal externalities,
loss, or putting a price on pollution – can be a it would equate to EUR 3.65 (USD 4.28) per kilogram
powerful incentive for businesses to move towards – around seven times the market price in 2016.³⁰
a circular economy.
For both true pricing and accelerated investment
Investment is essential to enable circular business to come into effect, the fashion industry and
practices, which predominantly operate within linear policymakers need to work together.
Make the economics work

- price in the true cost to level the playing field
POLICYMAKERS In addition, shifting taxes from labour to non-

renewable resources can support the transition
Policymakers to: create a new In the transition to a circular economy, policymakers to circular business models, breaking the link
level playing field in which circular have an unprecedented opportunity to structure the between economic activity and the consumption
economy decisions are the norm, system so that negative externalities are internalised of finite resources. Where the introduction and
increase of taxes on resources is coupled with
including efforts to “internalise” (i.e. brought into the market mechanism), and in the
end, eliminated. This can be achieved by, for example, a corresponding, revenue-neutral decrease in
costs, for example by realigning taxes on labour, the economic distortions that
putting a price on natural resource use and pollution;
fiscal, trade, and subsidy policies. or incorporating the value of resources, ecosystem favour linear over circular business models can be
services, and externalities into prices through virgin addressed, in particular as circular models (such
material taxation, and carbon prices on emissions as sorting or repair operations) tend to be more
caused by extraction and material production. labour-intensive than linear ones.³³
Policy developments should include efforts to reform By realigning the economic playing field,
fiscal systems and remove environmentally harmful policymakers have a powerful role in creating
subsidies. For example, according to the World Bank, a future landscape in which circular economy
agriculture subsidies are responsible for the loss of 2.2 decisions are the norm.
million hectares of forest per year - or 14% of global
deforestation³¹. Existing agricultural subsidies, largely
used to fund practices that deplete rather than replenish
nutrients, could be redirected towards regenerative
production methods for commodities like cotton, while
fossil fuel subsidies - estimated at USD 577 billion in
2021 - could be repurposed to fund the energy transition
across the fashion and other manufacturing sectors.³²
Move from product redesign to systems redesign

- take bold and unprecedented action
BUSINESSES internal and external measures of success for an

outcomes-based approach, businesses can ensure
All businesses in the fashion Continuing to redesign products (See Call to Action 1) they have circular business models in place,
industry to: redesign systems, so that they are fit for a circular economy is essential. which can ultimately benefit the environment.
not just products. As part of this, businesses need to ensure that products To ensure that these new parameters of success
are redesigned to withstand the level of use circular for circular business models trickle through their
business models require.³⁴ supply chains, businesses can engage customers
by rethinking incentives and rewards, elevating
But unless the system that they enter is set up to enable customer experiences, and ensuring ease of
them to remain in circulation, efforts risk stagnating at access. Today’s supply chains are optimised for
the product level. In order to truly challenge conventional simple, one-way production and distribution,
linear models at scale, the system itself must also be whereas to ensure products remain in circulation,
redesigned. The development of infrastructure which circular business models require local and global
enables effective collection, sorting, repair, remaking, networks that facilitate services such as cleaning,
reuse, and ultimately recycling is imperative to ensure repair and remaking.
products, materials, and their components are circulated
in practice and at scale. Such system-level unlocks All industry actors need to work together to
require a thriving and cohesive innovation ecosystem; co-create a supply network - as opposed to
increased finance leveraged for redesigned services, a linear chain - in which it is economically
business models, and supply chains; and unlocking the and technically viable to keep products in
potential of circular business models to generate revenue circulation.³⁶
without making more clothes.
Currently, while circular business models that decouple

revenues from production and resource use - like rental,
resale, repair and remaking - have great potential,³⁵
these business models do not always achieve this
decoupling and the environmental benefits that come
with it. Current business performance indicators,
such as sales volumes and inventory turnover, are
optimised for the linear economy. By reorientating their
Move from product redesign to systems redesign

- take bold and unprecedented action
POLICYMAKERS
Policymakers to: create the This infrastructure - largely missing today - must
conditions and incentives that be invested in by individual organisations, through
accelerate the development cross-value chain partnerships and support from
of infrastructure and industry policymakers. Without investment in services and
collection, sorting and recycling infrastructure, the
processes for product and
market for the recirculation of used products and the
material circulation. materials they contain within the economy is unlikely
to ever scale. Policymakers can help mobilise these, by
introducing mandatory, fee-based Extended Producer
Responsibility (EPR) regulations in their jurisdictions,³⁷
which enable funding for scaled and harmonised
collection and sorting systems to help prevent
materials from ending up in landfill or incineration.
Beyond EPR, the public sector has a key role to

play in steering investments towards innovation,
infrastructure and skills, including digital, technical
and repair skills. This is of particular importance
given the skill gaps and labour costs in industrialised
countries - two significant barriers to scaling circular
business models that enable the repair, remaking and
reuse of jeans and other garments.
By creating the right economic incentives and

regulatory requirements, policymakers can enable
circular economy solutions and infrastructure to
become the norm.
The question is no longer
whether a circular economy
for fashion is possible,
but what we will do together

to make it the norm.
Endnotes
1. Ellen MacArthur Foundation, A new textiles 16. Global Standard, General description 29. European Commission, Ecodesign for Sustainable
economy: redesigning fashion’s future (2017) Products
17. Textile Exchange, Organic Cotton Standard (OCS)
2. Ellen MacArthur Foundation, A new textiles (2020) 30. Ellen MacArthur Foundation, A new textiles
economy: redesigning fashion’s future (2017) economy: redesigning fashion’s future (2017)
18. Heddels, Soorty launches organic cotton initiative
3. Global Fashion Agenda & Boston Consulting in rural Pakistan (2021) 31. The World Bank, Damania, Richard; Balseca,
Group, Pulse of the fashion industry (2017) Esteban; de Fontaubert, Charlotte; Gill, Joshua;
19. Roadmap to Zero, MRSL conformance guidance
Kim, Kichan; Rentschler, Jun; Russ, Jason;
4. Ellen MacArthur Foundation, Vision of a circular (2020)
Zaveri, Esha, Detox development: repurposing
economy for fashion (2020)
20. Roadmap to Zero, ZDHC Wastewater Guidelines environmentally harmful subsidies (2023)
5. Ellen MacArthur Foundation, Circular business V1.1 (2020)
32. The World Bank, Damania, Richard; Balseca,
models: redefining growth for a thriving fashion
21. Roadmap to Zero, ZDHC Wastewater Guidelines Esteban; de Fontaubert, Charlotte; Gill, Joshua;
industry (2021)
V1.1 (2020) Kim, Kichan; Rentschler, Jun; Russ, Jason;
6. Ellen MacArthur Foundation, The Jeans Redesign Zaveri, Esha, Detox development: repurposing
22. Semantics Scholar, Investigation of the influence
Guidelines (2021) environmentally harmful subsidies (2023)
of Potassium Permanganate on denim jeans
7. Ellen MacArthur Foundation, Vision of a circular processing during acid wash (2015) 33. The World Bank, Squaring the circle: policies from
economy for fashion (2020) Europe’s circular economy transition (2022)
23. Science Direct, Electroplating (2014)
8. Ellen MacArthur Foundation, Vision of a circular 34. Ellen MacArthur Foundation, Design products to
24. New Jersey Department of Health and Senior
economy for fashion (2020) be used more and for longer
Services, Hazardous substances fact sheet (2002)
9. H&M Group, Designing for circularity 35. Ellen MacArthur Foundation, Circular business
25. Clean Clothes, Fashion victims: a report on
models: redefining growth for a thriving fashion
10. Primark, The Primark Circular Product Standard, sandblasted denim (2010)
industry (2021)
V1.0 (2023)
26. Levi Strauss & Co., It’s time to ban sandblasting
36. Ellen MacArthur Foundation, Co-create supply
11. Tommy Hilfiger, Circle Round (2010)
networks
12. Zalando, Zalando to roll out circular.fashion’s 27. Ellen MacArthur Foundation, Vision of a circular
37. Ellen MacArthur Foundation, Building a circular
Circular Design Criteria to brands (2022) economy for fashion (2020)
economy for textiles supported by common rules
13. ASOS, ASOS Circular Design Handbook (2021) 28. Ellen MacArthur Foundation, Circular business on Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) in the
models: redefining growth for a thriving fashion EU (2022)
14. H&M Group, Material vision
industry (2021)
15. Monki, Materials & fibres
Appendix
DATA DISCLAIMER Where a participant has not provided its commitment

information within the timeframes requested by the
This report has been compiled by the Ellen MacArthur Ellen MacArthur Foundation its Individual Progress
Foundation (the Foundation), using input from page has been included indicating where no data has
participants of The Jeans Redesign. been provided. This version of the Summary Report
was completed on July 10th 2023.
The information relating to each participant’s
progress, reporting, and company information has If you are a participant and you believe there
been submitted to the Foundation and has not been has been an error in the reproduction of the
audited or verified by the Foundation. Participants information provided to us by your organisation,
are responsible for all submitted data, which has please contact us as soon as possible at jeans@
been inserted verbatim in reporting templates ellenmacarthurfoundation.org, so that we can
on the website. update our records.
The information provided in this report is made

available on an ‘as is’ basis and the Foundation makes
no representations, and provides no warranties
to any party in relation to any of its content. The
Foundation (and its related people and entities and
their employees and representatives) shall not be
liable to any party for any claims or losses of any kind
arising in connection with, or as a result of use of, or
reliance on information contained in this document,
including but not limited to lost profits and punitive or
consequential losses.
Vision
A circular economy for fashion creates better
products and services for customers, contributes
to a resilient and thriving fashion industry, and
regenerates the environment.
It prioritises the rights and equity of everyone

involved in the fashion industry, and will create new
opportunities for growth that are distributed, diverse,
and inclusive.
We’ve created a vision for the fashion industry to

redesign the way clothes are made and used.
This will require industry and government to work
together. It will need significant investment, large-
scale innovation, transparency, and traceability. But if
we take these actions together and get started today,
this new system can scale fast.
Our vision of a circular economy for fashion means

building an industry that designs products to be:
• used more
• made to be made again
• made from safe and recycled or renewable inputs
Together we can make fashion circular and help tackle

the root causes of global challenges such as climate
change, biodiversity loss, and pollution.
Read the full vision.

Acknowledgements
THE ELLEN MACARTHUR FOUNDATION
CORE PROJECT TEAM FURTHER CONTRIBUTORS
Andrew Morlet – Chief Executive Eline Boon – Senior Policy Manager

Joe Murphy – Executive Lead, Network Valérie Boiten – Senior Policy Officer
Jules Lennon – Lead, Fashion Initiative Laura Balmond - Former Lead, Fashion Initiative
Natasha David – Project Manager, Fashion Initiative Chloe Anderson – Programme Manager, Fashion Initiative
Helena Pribyl – Analyst, Fashion Initiative Matteo Magnani – Project Manager, Fashion Initiative
Sophie Moggs – Analyst, Fashion Initiative Miranda Beckett – Project Manager, Fashion Initiative
Lenaïc Gravis – Editorial Development Manager Emily Scadgell – Communications Manager
Emma Elobeid – Senior Editor Lucy Dayman – Communications Executive
Matt Barber – Graphic Designer Jo De Vries – Editorial Lead
Laura Collacott – Freelance Editor
James Wrightson – Creative Design Lead
Steven Duke – Media and Messaging Lead
Paul Smith - Senior Media Executive
Sofia Voudouroglou – Media Assistant
Yunus Tunak – Digital Lead
Yanika Borg – Data Consultant
Dan Baldwin - Senior Designer, Digital
Richard Westbrook – Data Scientist
ABOUT THE ELLEN MACARTHUR ABOUT THE FOUNDATION’S

FOUNDATION FASHION INITIATIVE
The Ellen MacArthur Foundation is an international The Foundation’s Fashion Initiative was launched by the
charity that develops and promotes the circular Ellen MacArthur Foundation as ‘Make Fashion Circular’
economy in order to tackle some of the biggest at the Copenhagen Fashion Summit 2017, and brings
challenges of our time, such as climate change, together leaders from across the fashion industry to
biodiversity loss, waste, and pollution. We work with work with cities, philanthropists, NGOs, and innovators.
our network of private and public sector decision- Fashion companies in the Foundation’s Network include:
makers, as well as academia, to build capacity, Strategic Partners - Gucci and H&M Group; Partners
explore collaborative opportunities, and design and - Inditex, Lacoste, Primark, PVH Corp., Ralph Lauren,
develop circular economy initiatives and solutions. Tapestry and Zalando; and members. The Foundation’s
Increasingly based on renewable energy, a circular Fashion Initiative is leading international efforts to stop
economy is driven by design to eliminate waste, waste and pollution by creating a circular economy for
circulate products and materials, and regenerate the industry, where products are used more, are made
nature, to create resilience and prosperity for business, to be made again and are made from safe, recycled or
the environment, and society. renewable inputs.
Further information:
www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org
@circulareconomy
© COPYRIGHT 2023
ELLEN MACARTHUR FOUNDATION
www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org
Charity Registration No.: 1130306

OSCR Registration No.: SC043120
Company No.: 6897785

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THE JEANS REDESIGN INSIGHTS REPORT 2021-2023 1

But the way we make

The Jeans Redesign

by making jeans fit for

Meet the participants

72% Technical capability exists Participants continue to

Detailed insights from The Jeans Redesign 17

The Guidelines: Progress, Solutions, Barriers 25

Why jeans need a redesign

The Jeans Redesign: a starting point on

February 2019 July 2019 July 2021 July 2023

Through their participation in The Jeans Redesign,

Circular design can become the norm.

The solution pathways are clear.

Without systems change, the progress that has been made

Building on the momentum generated by The Jeans

MAKE MAKE MOVE FROM

See Section 5 for further details on calls to businesses and policymakers

Circular design can become the norm.

Similarly to 2021, the need to source buttons that

Rebecca Garner, Senior Sustainability Partner, ASOS

Sarah Hayes, Business Expert Circular Product

The solution pathways are clear.

This is a summary of insights from the individual

Without systems change, the progress that has been made

* Note all statistics in this section relate to

1 For certain criteria, it is no longer a question

ORGANIC CONTENT organic cotton throughout their supply chain for

2 Progress has been made to scale previously

3 Action has been taken

While participants report that design solutions and BUILT IN TRACEABILITY

In 2021, while disassemblable buttons were found to

4 Remaining design challenges and material

MAKE MAKE MOVE FROM

Make circular design the norm

BUSINESSES Businesses also need to ensure that high-level

Make circular design the norm

POLICYMAKERS Typically, product policies - such as the EU’s

Make the economics work

BUSINESSES constraints at present, to scale. In parallel to

Make the economics work

POLICYMAKERS In addition, shifting taxes from labour to non-

Move from product redesign to systems redesign

BUSINESSES internal and external measures of success for an

Currently, while circular business models that decouple

Move from product redesign to systems redesign

Beyond EPR, the public sector has a key role to

By creating the right economic incentives and

but what we will do together

DATA DISCLAIMER Where a participant has not provided its commitment

The information provided in this report is made

It prioritises the rights and equity of everyone

We’ve created a vision for the fashion industry to

Our vision of a circular economy for fashion means

Together we can make fashion circular and help tackle

Read the full vision.

THE ELLEN MACARTHUR FOUNDATION

CORE PROJECT TEAM FURTHER CONTRIBUTORS