The FZR Archives

2/16/2020 The FZR Archives
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F Z R 4 0 0 FA Q ' s
PLEASE NOTE - This FAQ has not been updated in 4 years! There are a lot of updates that need to be
done - a lot of knowledge that has been gained - and more importantly, lots of trial and error has gone on
that might help some of you. Please read this first, then probe the list with your questions. I'll be updating
the FAQ over the next few weeks, and will post a message when it's complete. Pags Revised 02/13/98
As our beloved FZR400 begins it's 10th year anniversary, a bunch of the faithful 400 owners figured it
would be a good idea to list all the commonly asked questions/problems, with the commonly proposed
answers/solutions in one place. Seeing as Bare Bone$ Racing team member Doug Pinckney already
hosts the FZR400 mailing list, it only seemed appropriate that we housed the FAQ as well.
The answers provided here are compiled with the help of Chris Eklund, and Tony Pagliaroli from countless
discussions with 400 racers, and hands on racing experience as well. Please report any inaccuracies or
new findings to us ASAP.
Click and enjoy!
Common Questions
What makes the 400 so dominant after all these What's the EXUP thing?
years?
Where are the oil restrictors, and what's this mod I
How long was the bike produced/imported? hear about?
What did the magazines say about it? What are my bodywork options?
Why don't they import it anymore? Can I run total loss on the bike?
Are there other lightweight bikes out there? I'm going racing, what should be the first thing I
change?
Is it a good street bike?
Can I improve the front end?
How much is too much to pay?
Can I improve the rear end?
What if I want to race?
What parts are interchangeable with the FZR600?
Why does my bike eat intake valves?
My bike is hard to start all of a sudden, why?
Is modern rubber available for the 18" rear
wheel? My bike breaks up in high rev situations, why?
What kind of horsepower should a 400 make? Can I change the rear wheel to a 17 incher?
What are the most common 400 specific Can I make my brake rotors full floating?
modifications?
How do I remove the *&$#ing flywheel?
How do I keep the #$%*ing airbox on?
Can I find aftermarket bearings?
Can I improve the braking?
Do I need ride height adjustability?
What do I do if I need more power? (The 560/600

question!)
What makes the 400 so dominant after all these years?

While this answer will be open to debate by the non-faithful, there are a few undisputed reasons the 400
has kept it's place at the front of the pack in lightweight racing circles.
Probably the biggest contributor is the all Aluminum Deltabox frame. This frame style was cutting edge in
1988 (only Bimota had a similar frame back then), and since then has really become the standard for
sportbikes. It's frame spars then, were beefier and lighter than the FZR600 (which has a steel frame), and
the stiffness provided by this layout has yet to be matched by any other production LW bike (stateside at
https://web.archive.org/web/20151109230749/http://www.fzrarchives.com:80/fzr400/FZR400 Frequently Asked Questions.html#What kind of horsepo… 1/10

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least!) The frame's geometry makes for a pretty quick turning machine,
Go NOV and NOV
it's lightDEC
weight make this a
http://www.fzrarchives.com/fzr400/FZR400 Frequently Asked Questions.html 👤
bike that demands high entry speeds, and does little to scrub the speed off in the middle.
22 captures Another contributor is the peaky, 14,000 RPM giving motor. For the most part,09
400's are pretty reliable. f 🐦
As
5 Sep 2005 - 24 Oct 2016
with any bike, they have their quirks, discussed elsewhere, but ridden above
2010 10,000
2015 RPM's,
2016 the motor will
▾ About this capture
reward you with surprisingly hard acceleration, and a top end over 120 MPH (with minor mods natch).
Back to the questions list
How long was the bike produced/imported?

While the FZR400 was only brought into the US from 1988 to 1990, other parts of the world have enjoyed
more recent versions of the bike including the latest incarnation, the FZR400RRSP. A great site devoted to
the lifeline of the FZR400 can be found at Http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/4200.
Recent additions to the bike are a more torquey motor, a larger, even beefier frame like the FZR1000's,
and a stiffer, braced swingarm. Although parts of the bike have changed, foreign press reports still deem
the 400 a true apex killer.
In America, the only real changes from the 1988/1989 version to the 1990 version revolve around the
addition of a Deltabox swingarm, and a switch to 4 piston calipers and offset rotors on the front.
What did the magazines say about it?

Jay McDaniel's 400 page offers quite a bit of information on the release of the FZR400, and the opinions of
the testers (one of which was Eddie Lawson). They said the same things everyone still says about the bike
10 years later.
Are there other lightweight bikes out there?

Of course there are, and one of them provides the stiffest competition to the FZR400. Kawasaki's EX 500
combines an absolutely bullet proof motor with an agricultural frame to provide a decent lightweight
competitor. High availability of parts, cheap price, and abundance of years produced make this a viable
alternative to the 400.
However, (politically correct mode - on) given equal riders, it's commonly thought that similarly modified
bikes of each variance will give the nod to the 400 rider every time.
The only other bikes currently produced that can run lightweight classes are the Suzuki GS500 (worse
frame than the EX, and nowhere near the motor of either) and the Ducati M750 Monster (untested in
racing conditions, expensive to buy/maintain).
Is it a good street bike?

In short, no. The peaky motor, combined with ergonomics designed for the race track make it a pretty
torturous street ride. Most people who have one as a street bike invariably buy something bigger for the
comfort/less buzziness factor. Many racers keep theirs registered so they can "test" the latest changes to
the suspension or jetting, but using the term "street bike" for these examples is stretching the definition.
Let's qualify that statement by saying that there are few bikes out there that provide more grins on a 5-10
mile jaunt around town, your favorite U-turns, or a trip to the local 7-11!
How much is too much to pay?

Well running, pristine street examples are going for more than they did brand new in many cases. These
bikes can fetch as much as $4500 (the original sold for $3999).
A decent street bike can be had (if you can find one, and we're willing to bet you can't!) for under $3000 if
the person knows nothing of the bike's racing heritage. You're most likely to find a race wired, slightly beat
up model, and these can range from $1600 (dings in the frame, missing bodywork, stock suspension,
sucked in valves) to about $3800 (fairly fresh motor, good bodywork, some spares).
What if I want to race?

If you're planning on racing this or any bike, you should check out the Newbie Road Racer FAQ,
maintained by Bare Bone$ Racing Alumni, Duke Robillard.
You'll find an abundance of information there, as well as some sound advice, given in a Papa Smurf
fashion.
Why does my bike eat intake valves?

This particular question has been debated a number of times. See, Yamaha apparently made the intake
valves out of a very soft metal (kind of a good thing as replacing the valve seats is incredibly expensive).
After a couple of seasons of pounding the seats at 14+K, the valves tend to "cup" meaning the edges get
worn, then the valve becomes shaped like a tulip.
There are many causes for this, and nearly every 400 racer has replaced intake valves at one time or
another. One theory for the most likely cause seems to be worn valve springs. The springs lose their
tension, and don't snap the valve back into place properly. This allows the valve to contact the seat several
times (bouncing back a little bit each time) before it seals instead of just once. It's not uncommon for a
race motor to go through a set of intakes once per season. (Incidentally, exhaust valves don't have this
problem because combustion helps the valves close.) Correct valve clearance, (note that Yamaha doesn't
make valve shims smaller than 120's and if you're down that far, you'll need a valve job anyway!) and
frequent adjustment/checks helps avoid this problem.

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The most tell-tale sign that your valves are out of adjustment isGohard starting.
NOV NOV Preferably,
DEC you won't 👤 let the
http://www.fzrarchives.com/fzr400/FZR400 Frequently Asked Questions.html
valves get to this point, but if your bike seems slow to wake up in the morning, and all the other "normal"
22 captures 09
things (no gas, fouled plugs, kill switch on, etc.) check out OK, then you need to check them. Another tell f 🐦
tale sign is poor compression in one or more cylinders. The manual has 2010a specific procedure to follow to
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help isolate the problem.
Replacing the valves yourself is not a big deal, however, cutting the valve seats should only be done by a
shop equipped to do so. Refer to the manual for removing the valves, but to avoid buying all those special
Yamaha tools, use a big C-clamp to compress the valve springs, and a magnet to fish out the retainers.
Providing your shop with a bare head, and brand new valves should save you a few bucks in labor.
Is modern rubber available for the 18" rear wheel?

According to some, this is the weak link on the 400. Even though the 400 came with a wider rim than many
1000's at the time (4.0 inches), and was among the first sport bikes to come with radial rubber mounted,
the back wheel is an 18 incher, and all modern cutting edge sport bikes have 17" wheels. Regardless,
there are several choices for rubber (both bias ply and radials) on the 400.
On the front, it seems that most people opt for the 110/70/17 size to preserve the quick steering nature of
the bike. A 120 will fit, but slows things down noticeably. A 140 comes stock on the rear, but a 150 will fit
with no problems, and the most popular size to date is a 150/60/18.
Brands are pretty subjective, but the popular consensus of North East racers is the Pirelli Dragon (Radial).
Pirelli doesn't technically make a Corsa (race compound) rear tire, but every source indicates the rubber is
race compound with a street label. The Pirelli's are the same compound as the second favorite, Metzeler's
MEZ1, with a different tread pattern, and reportedly a different profile on the front. (Both tires come out of
the same factory).
Bridgestone makes their BT-50's to fit the stock rims. They are available in both street and race
compounds. From Barrett Brockhage: "Also on the Bridges, both the front and rear are race compound,
and the front has two race compounds to choose from: (Type 3) sticky and (Type 4) almost too sticky!..and
of course street compound. You can get the BT-58 in a 120 front and some people run that with a BT-50
rear."
Michelin makes a Macadam rear, and a race compound front that Mid West CCS racer Nolan Ballew tried
out all season with good success. Again, the rear is a street compound, but the front is a race compound.
Nolan said he can carry more corner speed because the front doesn't chatter like the Pirelli's seem to at
full lean, but he can brake harder with the Pirelli's because they don't squirm as much.
Speaking of squirm, the old standard, Dunlop's K591 is available in a street compound only. It is actually
their old race compound, but as street tires get stickier, they reclassified this tire. For new racers, and
street riders, this may be the best choice for it's economics, and front end feedback. However, established
roadracers all run radials because the front end tends to dance on the brakes with the bias plies.
Regardless of your tire choice, remember that with such a lightweight/low power bike, you should not be
spinning the rear or pushing the front too often. If you are, you need to evaluate how old your tires are, and
what your suspension is doing.
What kind of horsepower should a 400 make?

On the dyno, an EXUP equipped 400 made 52 HP according to one of the magazines back in 1988. Well
running Sportbike prepped 400's should make anywhere between 52 and 56 HP. Anything below 50 HP
means the bike needs some work.
From Scott Decker: "You should be pushing 60hp if everything is in good order, though the separate air
filters may make the power curve spikey. Some degree of matching the jetting to the pipe can make a big
difference. I've spent much time on the dyno with my racebike, and a dynojet kit, 0.5mm overbore, 5-angle
valve job on new valves and a Yamaha race-kit pipe = a smooth, relatively broad 60hp peak (53hp with
stock pipe). I've seen a lot of different 400s dynoed over the years and they're all around 60 +- 2 hp if
they're set up well and BIG IF they're AMA Supersport-class legal (no head work, stock airbox, etc). FYI I
dynoed last month at NASB and after four full race seasons without touching the engine (new spark plugs
and carb synch only) I'm only 2HP down from my last top-end rebuild in '93 !! Says a lot about 14000rpm
engine durability over 3000 racetrack miles..."
A 560 Superbike can produce upwards of 90 HP (Jim Brewer's, Phil Digregorio's), but the truly reliable
ones (like John Gang's) are making around 80. Pat Salonis had head work, cams and a 1 mm kit in his
400, and the dyno runs showed 62 at the rear wheel.
What are the most 400 specific common modifications?

The most common modifications to any motorcycle are usually a pipe, individual filters, and brake lines.
Rather than go with these typical mods, we're going to offer some pretty 400-specific mods.
The subframe is steel, and weighs almost as much as the frame proper. Most racers cut off at least the
miscellaneous tail light mounting points and passenger peg mounts. Many racers hack off large chunks of
the subframe in an effort to save weight. An aluminum sub frame can be built as well since the piece is a
bolt on, however, the rear shock mount is part of the sub frame, and either has to be recreated, or retained
by being cut off and reinstalled.
Rear sets used to be a popular modification but the majority of racers simply cut off the pegs at or near the
last hole (designed for holding on the rubber foot pad). Most racers remove the rubber, and cut here at an
angle to offer more ground clearance. The thing to remember with rear sets is that the further back they
go, the closer they get to the ground. A good rear set will go at least as far up as back. Sets can be made
by using an aluminum plate with four offsetting holes drilled into it. The first set of holes will line up with the
stock mounts, the second set will locate the stock peg bracket where ever you like it. The only caveat is
that a longer shift rod will need to be fabricated or borrowed from something else.

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Reversing
http://www.fzrarchives.com/fzr400/FZR400 the shift pattern
Frequently is a simple modification. The wrong Go
Asked Questions.html way toNOV
do it would
NOV be to flip the existing
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linkage over, then grind away the part of the frame to allow the shift rod to have clearance (Doug Pinckney
👤
22 captures can attest to this). The right way is to use an FJ11 or 1200 shifter knuckle 09
upside down. This knuckle hasf 🐦
5 Sep 2005 - 24 Oct 2016
enough clearance to do the job. However, the trickiest way is to have a short
2010 throw
2015 shifter
2016 made by
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welding together pieces from other shifters. This eliminates the linkage entirely, and provides smoother
shifting all around (Tony Pagliaroli can give you more details if necessary.)
The clip ons can be safely moved under the triple clamps without running into clearance problems with the
fairing.
The steering stops on the lower triple clamps can be drilled and tapped so bolts can be installed to limit
steering travel, and avoid crushing the frame in the event of a crash.
A steering damper can be fit in front of the steering head with many aftermarket kits. Essentially though, if
you have the fork tube clamp, a piece of aluminum bent in a 90 degree angle with two holes drilled in it will
do when bolted to one of the front fairing cage mounts.
Yamaha also made a race kit for the 400. Although they are unavailable now, parts from these kits
(different black box, shorter intake tracts, special exhaust, different transmission ratios) float around from
time to time. Here's a bit more info:
Redline RPM: Max RPM (stock): 14,200 Max RPM (Race Kit): 14,500
From Jim Brewer, taken from the 1988 Yamaha Race Kit Parts Manual: "The spark advance characteristic
has been modified so as to match a tuned-up engine, and the maximum engine speed is limited to 14,500
rpm (STD 14,200 rpm)."
Transmission ratios from Tom Noble:
Gear Standard Ratio Race Kit Ratio
1st 43/13 = 3.308 32/13 = 2.462
2nd 40/18 = 2.222 33/17 = 1.941
3rd 36/21 = 1.714 31/19 = 1.632
4th 33/23 = 1.435 27/18 = 1.500
5th 28/22 = 1.273 26/19 = 1.368
6th 27/23 = 1.174 25/20 = 1.250
How do I keep the #$%*ing airbox on?

Finding a way to keep the airbox on can be a challenge. The airbox is a common complaint among 400
owners since many are street bikes and many more compete in classes that require the air box. Seems
that they are hard to get on and come off at the most inopportune times (like when you're just about to
pass someone!).
If the nipple at the front of the airbox isn't in the little retainer, you'll never get the leverage you need. If
your nipple is gone (heaven forbid!), drill the box, and secure a bolt in the same position with some fuel
line around it instead.
If you still have a hard time keeping the box on, you can do a number of things:
Use a big piece of foam under the tank cover to keep it in place.
Drill the air box, and use zip ties to fasten the back end of it down to the gas tank mounts.
Duct tape it, front to back to the gas tank.
Replace your crusty, hard, rubber pieces that fit over the carburetors with new, fresh, rubbery ones.
From Brad Lengel: "I had the same problem. The rubber couplers were kind of deformed where they fit
over the carbs. Probably from not being seated good and then over tightening the clamps. I replaced the
worst couplers (about $6 a piece) and it seated much better. Just consider replacing the couplers as
normal maintenance. I also use a small strap looped over the airbox from the radiator filler bracket to the
cross-piece bracket of the fuel tank to make sure it stays in place during races. I also like to replace the
Phillips head screws of the clamps with Allen head bolts where ever I can."
Can I improve the braking?

Sure you can, but the better question is, do you need to? The stock brakes on the 400 are more than
enough to stand the bike on it's nose, and most other lightweight bikes have much flimsier setups (Pre
1995 EX's, all GS's, etc.)
There have been problems reported by a few on the lists with the 1990 4 piston calipers. It seems that
crud builds up between the pistons, and one invariably freezes. Proper maintenance and frequent cleaning
should take care of that problem, but many racers have actually back dated their systems to the twin
piston variety.
Steel lines are a must for the track, and help on the street as well since they don't expand under hard
braking. It's one of the cheapest mods to any bike, and improves performance noticeably. Combined with
aftermarket pads like EBC's Greens, Galfer's or Ferodo's, the difference is dramatic.
You can "float" your stock rotors if they're slightly warped, or if you just like the jingle bells sound they
make. Use the ball end of a brake lever and a socket a little bigger than the back end of the buttons on the
rotor. Put the ball end on one side, the socket on the other, and squeeze the whole contraption in a vice.
Repeat equally with all the buttons, and your rotors will dangle in place. Nolan Ballew suggested this
method, and Tony Pagliaroli tested it for 6 weekends at Loudon without incident. Aftermarket rotors are
also available from EBC, Ferodo, and Braking for a fraction of the cost of replacing the stock rotors. The
EBC's are the most popular choice, the cheapest, and come with "bolt on" convenience, whereas the
others need to be attached to the stock carriers.
The only other option you have is swapping the front end with that of a different bike. The upside down
pieces off of earlier GSXR750's are probably the most popular because they bolt right on. Just for

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reference, the FZR600 triple clamps are slightly different in the steering stem area, but the fork tubes are
http://www.fzrarchives.com/fzr400/FZR400 Frequently Asked Questions.html Go NOV NOV DEC 👤
the same diameter and bolt into the 400 triples easily. Remember that you need to include the calipers,
22 captures rotors and front wheel in this conversion due to the different 09
offset/circumference of the rotors. f 🐦
Back to the questions list 2010 2015 2016
Do I need ride height adjustability?
No. Not unless you've switched to a 17" rear wheel, and several racers have also done this mod without
changing the rear ride height. Ride height adjustment is a nice thing to have if you know what implications
the changes you are making have, but it is not absolutely necessary.
As an alternative to buying a new shock with ride height adjustment, there's a company that makes custom
shock linkages (dog bones) for the 400 which, when bolted on to a bike with a 17" rear wheel, bring the
ride height back to stock specs. Ride height can also be added to most shocks at an additional cost during
rebuild. Most aftermarket shocks now come with ride height, and this should be taken into consideration
when pricing your new $600 toy.
What do I do if I need more power? (The 560/600 question!)

Everybody could use a few more ponies at the rear wheel, and one of the easiest ways is by bolting an
FZR600 motor into your frame. What you'll end up with is essentially the bike Yamaha should have built
instead of the YZF600 (Yamagranite). It's a pretty straight forward swap since the engine cases are nearly
identical. You need to include the airbox, wiring harness, black box and fuel pump as well. YZF600 motors
share cases with the FZR600 motor and should slide right in as well. Rumors have it that a FZR1000
motor will also fit but may require modifications to the frame and new intake tracts to raise the carbs above
the narrow frame rails.
Just bolting in a stock FZR600 motor is an easy way to gain ~30hp.
From Mark Denovich: "30hp and about 20ft/lbs of torque! At about 4.5k to 10.5k mine is above 40ft/lbs.
With a peak of 46. It turns a 400 into a very nice street ride. With the gearing I had on the 400 the 600 is
turning only 5k at 60mph. Its a little too tall (for nice wheelies) but it sure as hell beats 7.5k at 60mph. (I
managed a 2.5k tour the summer before last on the 400.)"
The following items need to be changed to run a FZR600 motor in a FZR400 chassis.
1) Radiator - Consensus is that the 600 radiator should be used to match the heat of the 600 motor. From
John Alguire: "You DEFINITELY want to run the 600 rad for cooling capacity. The 600 rad is a little wider at
the mounting tabs and I don't believe the upper isolator fits into the mount on the frame (the little nub at the
very top of the rad), but you can add spacers at the sides and pretty much bolt it up. You will need to use
the 600 rad hoses and massage the upper through the frame to your thermostat. The fan will not fit."
2) Coil relocation - Since the 600 engine is taller (head and cylinder), the carbs will hit the coils as they are
mounted in the 400. You can simply redrill the holes in the coil brackets to move them up and forward.
3) Exhaust - As stated above, the taller head means an aftermarket 600 header must be used. A stock 600
header extends forward towards the front wheel and the short wheel base of the 400 means the front
wheel comes very close to header. Rumor has it when some racers started making these conversions in
'88, they found the front tire hitting the stock header under heavy braking. Using a complete 600 system
may require a modification to the rear hanger, but many systems (i.e. D+D) have a adjustable clamp that
can be adjusted.
4) Ignition box/wiring - The 600 motor will run with either ignition box. Be careful if you use the 400 box
since the rev limit on the 400 is almost 2000 rpm higher than the 600. A 600 box is a better (and safer)
match. There is a slight difference in the 400 and 600 boxes. From John Alguire: "As I mentioned before,
the 600 box has a relay assembly for the fuel pump and side stand switch integrated into it while the 400
does not. As I understand it from a fellow FZR400/600 builder (I adapted the 400 box on mine), the 400
box sends out a signal into these tires, but the 600 box is looking for a ground. The fuel pump circuit has
no effect on spark, but side stand switch does. Therefore, you need to pull that wire from the connector
and tape it off while simultaneously grounding the pin in the connector. You can locate this on the wiring
diagram in the manual... the description I received was "the middle one next to the red/white". "If you look
at the rhs connector, the 4-pin lead from the 400 will directly plug in to one side of the 8-pin receptacle on
the 600 box."
5) Airbox - You can use the 400 airbox or individual filters. The 600 box is too large to fit.
In racing circles, doing the 600 swap immediately puts you in classes with TZ250's and worked 600
superbikes, which in most cases means you lose. However, if you've got a spare FZR600 motor laying
around, access to a machinist, and a few more bucks, you can build perhaps the ultimate Lightweight
Superbike.
Our details here are a little sketchy because the secrets of the 560 motor are highly guarded. Essentially,
you take your 400 cases, bolt in the 600 crankshaft, use the 600 connecting rods with +1mm 400 pistons
with modified wristpin holes (to accept the 600 rods). Then have your machinist make you a spacer plate
that's about 23mm thick and mirrors what your base gasket looks like. While he's at it, have him make you
some custom head retaining bolts because the old ones will be too short.
New rules say you can use any head you want, so a 600 head probably makes sense here too, as do the
600 carbs. Horsepower for these monsters range from 80 (with un lightened crank/rods) to over 90 (with
Carillo rods and a lightened balanced crank). Reports of problems setting the deck height properly, blown
head gaskets, and severe sensitivity to jetting and ignition timing run amuck. According to Jim Brewer:
"Mine used stock 600 rods, crank and clutch basket, 1mm over 400 pistons & cyls (no longer sleeves
needed) and a completely stock 400 head. It made 44 ft-lbs at 9500 and 94HP at 12K (more than the AOD
bike). I often took it to 13K and it lasted 1.5 seasons with only a valve job before Daytona. There was
some machine work needed. I only know about milling the pistons for rod clearance and bushing the ends
of the rods for the 400 pins. Curt (Jordan) knows all the stuff he did. The vast majority of it was bolt
together, though."
Just don't forget that doing this puts you into the Superbike class, which means you really need to replace
the front end, brace the swingarm, swap the wheels out for Performance Machine ones, and do wheelies

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like JohnFrequently
http://www.fzrarchives.com/fzr400/FZR400 Gang did on his! Questions.html
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What's the EXUP thing? 2010 2015 2016
The EXUP valve is a servo motor controlled exhaust valve that increases back pressure to your motor
under certain circumstances, increasing torque while reducing emissions. This option was only present on
the California model FZR400's, and was promptly tossed at the race track.
Jay McDaniel has a great copy of a magazine article discussing the EXUP valve on his site.
Where are the oil restrictors, and what's this mod I hear about?
These little screws are under a couple of the crank bearings, and are reportedly responsible for many
bottom end failures. Almost everyone who's had to replace rod bearings in the bottom end has reported
that these restrictors were at least loose. Use of Loc-tite however, should be done with caution as excess
material may clog oil passageways.
Here's a reprint of a mail posted on the 400 list some time ago by Rob Bunyan, quoting James at BDK
racing engines regarding a modification to these restrictors as well:
"If you measure csa(cross sectional area) of oil loss at rod ie:area of pin minus area of rod inc shells, times
2 for both sides . Plus oil loss for outer main brg(since these are fed together). This is the total area for oil
loss assuming the crank is not moving(no centrifugal pull). A rule of thumb is that the supply csa is at least
a third larger than the loss csa. This also assumes no 90 degree bends etc. If you look at the oil feed in the
btm case it has an arduous path to the outer main and consequently the big end. The oil rises in a 5mm
drilling (where the restrictor jets are) and then horizontally in a 6mm hole and then up again at 6mm to the
outer big end. The 5mm drilling has to be because they wanted to put a M6 thread in it for the jet. Anyway,
take the 5mm hole out to 6mm and then use a thread repair, Time sert or Helicoil, to restore the thread for
the oil jet. The reason the main is OK is because it always has sufficient oil and little centrifugal force,
however the big end throws the oil away at a considerable rate .Remove more than you are putting in and
bang! I have seen hundreds of FZR's with outer b.ends gone. All modified as above sorted them out
without fail. "
What are my bodywork options?

Several companies including Airtech, Sharkskinz, Beasley, Mototech and National Fiberglass make
replacement fairings for the 400. Every report lists Sharkskinz as the best (albeit one of the most
expensive) as far as quality and crashability.
Among the most popular variances in fitting different bodywork on the 400 is a TZ250 tail section. A 1990
TZ tail fits as long as you cut out the set pan, drill a slot in the back for your stock seat, and use the tabs
originally designed for the "nipples" of the stock rear seat panels for mounting. A picture of this seat
configuration can be seen at the Bare Bone$ Racing Website Other tail sections, including YZF750's have
been mounted with minimal effort as well.
The other most popular variance is to fit an entire FZR600 front fairing setup. This modification is fairly
straight forward, and provides you with a larger "bubble" but needs modification to either your front fairing
bracket, or the upper for mounting. FZR600 front fairing brackets have an offset mount and will not work
with the center mount on the 400 frame.
Can I run total loss on the bike?

Running total loss is a relatively easy way to get a quicker revving motor, but this is only for race bikes
since a battery won't last more than 2 hours running this way.
Essentially, you remove the flywheel on the left side of the motor. Remove the magnets off the inside (they
are glued in there, and require a bit of prying to get out), then remove the generator that's behind the
flywheel. You need to retain the ignition pickup, and put the flywheel back in place, otherwise, there's
nothing to drive the spark.
It's up to you if you want to have your machinist put the flywheel in a lathe to turn it down some, and
whether you want to remove the starter as well. If you remove the starter, you'll need to fabricate a plate to
seal off the hole it leaves, and you'll also be able to get rid of the starter gears on the right side of the
motor as well.
If done properly, you'll end up with a much more rev happy motor, but the headache of push starting the
bike all the time, and blipping the throttle at the starting line, praying that the bike doesn't stall!
I'm going racing, what should be the first thing I change?

Your mind!!! Seriously, be prepared to have your entire life change. As Bob Perkins, a LRRS Technical
Inspector said, you know it's time to quit racing when sex becomes a priority again...it's that serious!
But, if you've made up your mind already, and you've been bitten by the bug (like the rest of us), the first
thing you should do is take whatever tires are on the bike (and this goes for all bikes by the way), throw
them away, and start with a fresh set of rubber. Don't worry about breaking them in, you'll do a fine job of
that in your racing school as you crawl around the race track.
That's right we said crawl. The next thing you need to change is your attitude. The race track has a way of
humbling even the fastest most insane street riders. If you opt to go in with an open mind, your ego will be
prepared when you're screaming through a turn faster than Mick Doohan on your new 560 superbike, and
Jeff Wood's stock EX pipes shower you with sparks as he passes you on the inside!
Don't spend a ton of money on the bike until you've been to the track a few times. There will usually be a
guy on a much less modified bike riding faster than you anyway. Duke's Newbie Road Racer FAQ covers
all of the basics of going racing. Just don't forget the fresh rubber!
http://www.fzrarchives.com/fzr400/FZR400 Frequently
Can I improve Askedend?
the front Questions.html Go NOV NOV DEC 👤 ⍰❎
22 captures 09
Without swapping for a different front end, there are a bunch of things you can do to the front end (which is
totally non-adjustable) to improve it's feel (and still stay legal for Super Sport/Sport Bike, Production, etc.).
f 🐦
2010 2015 2016
5 Sep 2005 - 24 Oct 2016
First, you can opt for different springs (Race Tech's straight rate springs seem to work the best,▾ About this capture
but others
have had success with Progressive Suspension's progressive springs too). Just follow the application
chart, and size up the springs according to your weight (racers, don't forget to include the extra baggage of
your helmet and leathers).
Whether you change the springs or not, setting the sag properly is essential to a well handling bike. Race
Tech has an article on setting sag that is pretty comprehensive. Really, all you need to do is make spacers
out of the appropriate diameter PVC tubing, and insert them into your forks in place of the stock spacers.
You adjust the sag by the length of this tubing. The Yamaha race kit, as well as one aftermarket
manufacturer, had fork tube caps that allowed you to adjust the preload without changing spacers, but they
are no longer available.
Another, more subjective move is to move the fork tubes up in the triple clamps. This will effectively
decrease the trail, and make the bike steer even quicker, while putting more weight on the front end.
Normally, you shouldn't move them up more than 15mm, but some pilots have gone as far as 30mm and
still run good lap times.
The newest mod has been the installation of Race Tech's Cartridge Emulators. Essentially, these are little
valves that sit on top of your forks damping rods, and let you adjust the compression damping. The
installation is fairly straightforward on the 400, but setup can be tough depending on your skill level.
Concerning disassembly, use an air or electric impact wrench to remove the allen bolt holding the lower
and upper slider together. If you try to remove it by hand, the inner damping rod will spin. The impact will
usually spin it out quickly enough to avoid this problem. Yamaha makes a special tool to reach in and hold
the damper rod, but the tools is not cheap. If you have problems pulling the fork tubes apart because the
damper rods spins.
Here's a tip from Jim Brewer: "I used a 20" long bolt with a hex head that just fits the top of the damper
tube (15/16" from flat to flat). I double netted the other end of the bolt so I could hold it with an adjustable
wrench. It cost me about $2.
The base setup in the emulator manual seems a little soft for the race track, so you might want to give it a
couple of twists. Most important here is to remember what you've done by keeping notes so you can
always fall back to something that's worked already. Once set up properly, the emulators make a huge
difference in the feel of the front end, and your lap times should drop with your new found confidence. The
emulators retail for about $100.
Here's a couple of base settings from other 400 racers: Shawn Cash: "I weigh 165 lbs sans gear. I put .85
kg/m RACE-TECH springs, gold valve emulators, and use 10wt oil set at 92mm from the top (factory spec)
measured with the emulators in. I removed the factory spacer (the RACE-TECH springs are shorter) and
cut a 93mm spacer which gave me 28mm sag. I can put my front wheel anywhere, and it will stick with no
complaints. I wish I could say the same about the rear.....
Two bits of advice: Don't skimp on tires, get the best. Get a length of 3/4" (I think) PVC pipe. Initially cut
your spacers out of this. Then when you find the length that works best for you, cut the aluminum one that
RACE-TECH supplies with the springs to the same length."
From Ken Hsu: "I installed the .85 Race-Tech springs (picked from the same chart you probably are
looking at) and I am around 140lbs not including gear. They felt fine for what my opinion's worth and the
allowed compression travel seemed to make sense also at 80mm plus 25mm sag."
If you decide to swap front ends, there are many ways to go. Some swaps may bolt in, some may require
changing the steering stem, others may require new triple clamps. Remember changing front ends may
affect the handling characteristics of your 400 for better or worse. It's important to understand the
difference between the original fork offset and the offset for the front end you want to use. Take
measurements, ask questions, see what others have done.
From Chris Eklund: "GSXR front ends are rather popular as they offer external compression, rebound, and
pre-load adjustments. The upside-down (USD) forks are rather heavy, and will noticeably slow steering
and increase unsprung weight. The conventional forks are good solution and will probably cost less than
the newer USD forks. Word from Jim Lindemann is that the forks of choice are the '88-92 GSXR750 forks
as they are better quality (Showa) and close in their damping rates then the GSXR1100's Kayaba forks.
FZR1000 front ends (87-90) are a bolt on if you replace the entire front end (triples, tubes, wheel, rotors,
etc.) The advantage is a fairly easy swap giving you larger fork tubes (87-88 41mm, 89-90 43mm vs.
38mm stock), preload adjustment, wider front rim (3.50"vs. 3.00"), and bigger brakes. You still don't gain
external rebound and compression adjustment, you increase the unsprung weight, and reciprocating
mass. A better swap would be from a motor cycle of similar dimensions (i.e. F3, ZX6R, YZF600, RGV250,
TZR250, NSR250). "
Can I improve the rear end?

Adding a quality aftermarket rear shock is a great, albeit expensive way to improve the handling of your
bike. In fact, if you've never ridden anything that has decent suspension components on it, you'll be
amazed at the difference.
Unfortunately, aftermarket shocks are expensive. Works Performance offers a preload adjustable
replacement for around $400. They will build the shock to have damping rates appropriate to your weight
and riding style.
Moving up the ladder, Fox offers the Twin Clicker, with adjustments for preload, compression and rebound
damping and ride height at a cost of nearly $700. This may be the most popular road racing shock for the
400 (the 600 shock will fit as well, but reportedly, the damping rates are different).
Further up the ladder is the Ohlins shock, with features exactly like the Fox, but for about $300 more. Top
pros use Ohlins parts, but most privateers shy away from the price.
What all these options offer is the ability to rebuild them once they've lost they're damping qualities.
Rebuilds generally run from $100 to $200. For comparison, and stock shock (totally not rebuildable

⍰❎
incidentally)
http://www.fzrarchives.com/fzr400/FZR400 is over $600
Frequently Askedfrom Yamaha. Used shocks come availableNOV
Questions.html from time
NOVto time
DECin the $200-$350
Go 👤
range. Be prepared to have the shock rebuilt (oil change and nitrogen recharge at least) especially if it's
22 captures leaking, old, or the previous owner has no idea if it was ever rebuilt or 09
serviced. f 🐦
The 600 swingarm is also a direct bolt on, but is made of steel and is2010a little 2015
heavier2016
than either the regular
box section aluminum swingarm, or the 1990 only Deltabox swingarm. It is about 1/2 and inch longer, and
will make the bike more stable in high speed sweepers, but also make the bike steer slower.
What parts are interchangeable with the FZR600

Since there seems to be an abundance of FZR600 laying around, it helps to know what parts can be
scavenged to preserve out beloved FZR400's. Marte Cooksey, is a good source for parts at a discount.
Call 1-800-286-5871 between 8 am- 4pm PST. Ask for Rebecca and tell her Marte sent you. This will get
you their best deal. OR email him directly above.
The following parts will interchange:
rear wheels (if you use the caliper hanger that goes with the wheel)
front wheels (as long as the rotors/calipers go with their matching forks)
complete front ends (triple clamps are the same)
motors (with the change of a few things - see 600 motor swap)
handle bars and levers
gas tanks (the 600 has a slightly higher filler neck, but fits every where else)
switch gear and throttle (cables differ at carb)
foot pegs and levers
clutch cables
swing arms
rear shock and all linkages
carbs (may need jetting change)
front brake calipers (only applies to '88-89 400's and pre 4-piston 600's)
rear brake calipers (all)
front and rear axles
rear gas tank brackets
regulator (Sloan's says the part number is 1 digit off, but this has been tested in racing circles)
600 radiator to 400 frame (with a simple change in hose routing)
600 water pump to 400 frame (if you use the entire assembly, you need to use the 600 lower rad hose,
otherwise, just use the 600 pump with the 400 cover)
radiator fans
radiator caps, (Quoted from an anonymous source - If the price of a new Yamaha rad cap makes you
choke, go to your local auto parts store and buy one for an '89 Honda Accord. It's the same.)
thermostats
gas caps (Note, the filler neck on the 600 tank is taller)
ignition switches
sprocket covers
starter clutch covers
starter relays
cam chain tensioner
fuel pumps (The 600 has a larger OD on the outlet, but still works, a ZX7 pump is also a direct plug in,
ask Tony Pagliaroli)
turn signals
Note: Starter motors and magneto/rotors are not interchangeable. However, more than a few of us have
thought about swapping the entire assembly from a 600 to a 400!
As far as swapping parts between models, the '88 and '89 models are identical. The only differences to the
'90 model is paint, 4-piston calipers (same as early FZR1000's and FZR750's), rotors with a different offset
(but same diameter), and the all-aluminum Deltabox swing arm. Also note that there seems to be no
readily available 88-89 400 cranks from the manufacturer. Instead, you need to buy a 90 crank, and it
comes with slightly different oil seals to match the 88-89 cases.
My bike is hard to start all of a sudden, why?

You can check the Valves portion of the FAQ for more information, but generally, if all the normal things
check out, you've probably got worn intake valves. Follow these steps for determining the cause of hard
starting:
Make sure your battery is fully charged.
Ensure you have enough gas, and that the petcock is not off.
Make sure the kill switch is in the on position, and when you click the ignition to start it, the fuel pump is
activated.
Pull a spark plug and make sure it's not fouled.
Make sure your carbs are clean and not clogged.
If the motor is turning at this point, yet still not starting, you probably have a valve problem, and they at
least need adjustment.
My bike breaks up in high rev situations, why?

The FZR400, due to it's high revving motor, requires a fully charged battery to run properly. If your battery
is running down a bit, you may get high rev stumbles that feel like the bike is running out of gas. The
simple fix is to either install a new battery, or charge the one you have.
But while we're on the topic of battery charging, the most likely cause of your battery becoming insufficient
is overcharging. This is a common problem on the 400, and is usually caused by a faulty regulator. The

⍰❎
600 regulator is a different part number, but several sources indicate NOVthey are
NOVthe same,
DEC and our
http://www.fzrarchives.com/fzr400/FZR400 Frequently Asked Questions.html Go 👤
experiences at least say the 600 regulator is a suitable replacement.
22 captures One sure sign that your battery is overcharging is the loss of paint/clearcoat 09
off of various parts of your f 🐦
bike from battery acid being spit out of your battery overflow tube. Again,
2010since
2015 this2016
is a common problem
on the 400, it's not unusual to see swingarms spotted with polished parts from where the battery acid
made contact.
Why don't they import it anymore?

Yamaha is a victim of it's own genius when it comes to this question. See, the 400, as trick as it was back
in 1988, was also very expensive. In fact, by 1990, it was more expensive than the FZR600, due to the
nature of it's aluminum frame and cutting edge hardware.
Yamaha is also a victim of the American "Big Bore" mentality. Americans simply do not want anything
smaller than a 600, and consider the latest crop of 150MPH 600's "starter bikes"! In other countries,
staggered licensing ensures a market for small bore bikes because novice riders are limited by law to the
number of cc's they're allowed.
The only advantage that racers have due to these facts is that we don't have to buy a brand new bike
every other year to stay competitive!
Can I change the rear wheel to a 17 incher?

Sure you can, but note that the only real advantage to installing a 17" wheel is to take advantage of the
latest generation of racing rubber.
Contributed by Chris Eklund:
"I currently run Honda CBR600F2 (17x4.50) and F3 (17x5.00) rear wheels on my race bike. My street
project FZR600 street fighter will be using a GSXR (17x4.50) rear wheel.
To use the F2/F3 wheels, this is what I had done. Any competent machinist could do this, or they may
have a better idea. This is how my guy did it:
First thing is I took Lester a stock wheel complete with spacers, axle, cush drive, brake arm, etc., a spare
400 box-section swing arm and a complete F2 rear wheel. This way he could measure everything from the
stock wheel.
He removed the sprocket studs from the cush drive. (Note: Honda uses locking agent that is _tough_! Be
sure to heat the studs when you pull them.) The outer bearing surface was machined down. This
eliminated the rubber bearing seal, so a single sided waterproof sealed bearing of the Honda OEM size
was used. The sprocket surface was also machined to move the sprocket inward. (Note: If you have '90
Deltabox swing arm, the studs need to be shortened and the nuts ground down to clear the swing arm. I'm
not sure if this step is necessary on a '88-89 box section arm since they have more clearance. I ground
about 2-3mm off the nuts, which was basically the locking portion of it, so I now have mine safety wired.
Makes rear sprocket changes time consuming, but it won't come off and I usually know what gearing I'm
going to run at what track beforehand. If you can get some low profile lock nuts, that would work well.
Ideally, I'd have a spare cush drive modified.
New wheel spacers were machined from steel and have a sleeve for adapting the small FZR axle to the
larger F2 bearing. This way the spacers are captive and won't fall out. (Note: Another option is to use the
F2/F3 axle. The stock F2 axle will fit in the '90 swing arm. All you'd have to do is drill out the holes in the v-
blocks. The F2/F3 axle is about 2mm larger and hollow.
For the brake, Honda uses a floating caliper mounting system as opposed to the Yamaha's fixed caliper. I
use a Hurricane 2-piston caliper, but plan to use a F2 single piston one soon. A CR125/250/500 rear
caliper might be another option. I've seen a CR125 caliper used on an F2 rim on Simon Forder's EX500.
The large hub on the F2/F3 wheels won't allow an opposed piston caliper go all the way over the rotor. The
GSXR wheel can be used with the FZR600 hanger and stock 400/600 caliper or you could get the GSXR
rotor turned down the same diameter as the stock 400 rotor. I think the F2/F3 wheels are lighter than the
GSXR, but I can't guarantee that. I will be weighing items this winter ('97-'98) and will have the FAQ
updated when I do.
The GSXR wheel requires the same type of work, but is simpler for a few reasons. The cush drive uses
bolts to secure the sprocket so when you remove the sprocket, the bolts fall out, unlike the studs on the
Honda. These bolts are of a smaller diameter than the Honda studs and already uses low profile locking
nuts. And as I mentioned above, the brake situation is easier to deal with. Plus it's a three-spoke wheel
and matches the stock front wheel. GSXR rims may be getting hard to find since they were only used on
'88-89 GSXR750's and '89 GSXR1100's.
Here are GSXR dimensions and directions from Nolan Ballew:
"Remove .345 from sprocket carrier where sprocket sits.
Remove .305 from sprocket carrier where stock bearing seal sits.
Replace bearing with sealed bearing type but same size.
On sprocket side use stock spacer plus 25mm O.D. 17mm I.D. by 1.73 inch spacer that slips into
carrier.
Use stock brake arm and .510 spacer with 17mm I.D./ O.D. of this spacer is non critical. this spacer
goes between brake arm and wheel bearing like stock one.
The stock Suzuki disc can be cut down to the same O.D. and width as 400. The O.D. with have cut thru
holes or you can make a disc. The stock disc cannot be adapted.
Stock caliper needs bottom left surface filed down about .025 to provide clearance for larger hub of
GSX-R-r wheel.
A 600fzr caliper bracket can be used with the stock Suzuki disc but then you cannot easily switch from
a stock wheel to the Suzuki wheel if you have 18 inch rains on stock wheels (Bridgestone).
I don't have a number for the 600 caliper bracket but once the other side is done the measurement should
not be too difficult."

⍰❎
I will be measuring my current rim set ups and will soon update this FAQ with the dimensions you will need
http://www.fzrarchives.com/fzr400/FZR400 Frequently Asked Questions.html Go NOV NOV DEC
for modifying a Honda F2/F3 rear rims to fit in the 400 (or 600). TZ250 rims have been used and 👤
22 captures 09
apparently only require new spacers being made (according to Motorcyclist article 9/90.) TZ rims wider f 🐦
than 5.00 may require moving the chain out to clear the tire. 2010 2015 2016
As recommended by Sam Flemming of the Army of Darkness, Wheels without cush drives should be
avoided (i.e. older Performance Machine wheels.) The shock of each power pulse will take it's toll on the
400's not too terribly tough transmission and clutch.
Can I make my brake rotors full floating?

This mod is not for the weak of heart, but can be done safely by following these instructions:
You can "float" your stock rotors if they're slightly warped, or if you just like the jingle bells sound they
make. Use the ball end of a brake lever and a socket a little bigger than the back end of the buttons on the
rotor. Put the ball end on one side, the socket on the other, and squeeze the whole contraption in a vice.
Repeat equally with all the buttons, and your rotors will dangle in place. Nolan Ballew suggested this
method, and Tony Pagliaroli tested it for 6 weekends at Loudon without incident.
More front brake mods are listed in Can I improve the brakes?
How do I remove the *&$#ing flywheel?

We could tell you, but we'd have to kill you! This is a common question, and at $275 a pop, you certainly
don't want to destroy the thing!
If you do it the right way, you'll buy the $10 flywheel removal tool from your local shop. Essentially, this is a
big threaded bolt that screws into the flywheel, and against the crankshaft. Experience tells us that simply
screwing it in there with an impact wrench doesn't always do the job, and can strip the puller inside the
flywheel, causing all sorts of headaches. Ironically, the rear axle will also serve this purpose, and is
recommended by many 400 listers. Try it at your own risk.
The proper procedure is to tighten the puller down as snug as possible, then smack it with a hammer right
in the center. Tighten it down again, as snugly as possibly, and smack it again. Repeat this process until
the flywheel pops off.
If you can't get it off within a half an hour, bite the bullet before you do some real damage and go to a
shop. Let them screw it up so you don't have to pay for a new flywheel!
Note, apparently, the 90 FZR has a different flywheel than the 88-89 models. This has not yet been
confirmed as nobody ever has more than one motor at one time!
Putting it back on is a different story... From Dave Sweeney:
Since it's already off(heh, heh) make sure the mating surfaces of the flywheel and crank are clean, clean,
clean!! This includes the woodruff key and the corresponding slot on the crank. No burrs or gunk on the
mating surfaces at ALL. Use a little 600 on the mating surfaces if you need to. Rotate the crank so the key
slot is up. Get the bolt(also really clean) and all ready for assembly.
OK, now for the unbelieveable part. Get out your trusty RED locktite and coat the mating surfaces
thoroughly. This keeps it all together, and keeps the flywheel from welding itself to the crank(the reason
you couldn't get it off in the first place). Put the key in the slot, slap it together, put in the bolt and torque it
down to 58 ft-lbs. Viola! Next time the flywheel needs to come off, it will.
Whatever you do, DO NOT USE ANTISEIZE! The taper of the crank/flywheel is to hold the flywheel on,
the bolt keeps the mess from vibrating loose. Better to put it together dry than with antiseize.
Can I find aftermarket bearings?

From Steve, a 400 race lister...
Stem head bearings only:
Bearing #1-Yamaha# 93332-00008
-manufactured by KOYO (following are KOYO part #'s)
-"bearing cap", 32006J
-"bearing itself", 32006JR
-"rubber seal", 32006JRRS
Bearing #2-Yamaha# 93332-00079
-manufactured by KOYO (following are KOYO part#'s)
-"bearing cap", 32005J
-"bearing itself", 32005JR
-"rubber seal", 32005JRRS-3
The FiZzeR Squad is a trademark of The FZR600 Archives.

All other products mentioned are registered trademarks or trademarks of their respective companies.
Questions or comments about this site can be sent to mike@fzrarchives.com
Copyright © 1997-2003 The FZR600 Archives. All rights reserved.
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2/16/2020 The FZR Archives

http://www.fzrarchives.com/fzr400/FZR400 Frequently Asked Questions.html Go NOV NOV DEC 👤 ⍰❎

Do I need ride height adjustability?

What do I do if I need more power? (The 560/600

What makes the 400 so dominant after all these years?

https://web.archive.org/web/20151109230749/http://www.fzrarchives.com:80/fzr400/FZR400 Frequently Asked Questions.html#What kind of horsepo… 1/10

How long was the bike produced/imported?

What did the magazines say about it?

Are there other lightweight bikes out there?

Is it a good street bike?

How much is too much to pay?

What if I want to race?

Why does my bike eat intake valves?

https://web.archive.org/web/20151109230749/http://www.fzrarchives.com:80/fzr400/FZR400 Frequently Asked Questions.html#What kind of horsepo… 2/10

Is modern rubber available for the 18" rear wheel?

What kind of horsepower should a 400 make?

What are the most 400 specific common modifications?

https://web.archive.org/web/20151109230749/http://www.fzrarchives.com:80/fzr400/FZR400 Frequently Asked Questions.html#What kind of horsepo… 3/10

How do I keep the #$%*ing airbox on?

Can I improve the braking?

https://web.archive.org/web/20151109230749/http://www.fzrarchives.com:80/fzr400/FZR400 Frequently Asked Questions.html#What kind of horsepo… 4/10

What do I do if I need more power? (The 560/600 question!)

https://web.archive.org/web/20151109230749/http://www.fzrarchives.com:80/fzr400/FZR400 Frequently Asked Questions.html#What kind of horsepo… 5/10

What are my bodywork options?

Can I run total loss on the bike?

I'm going racing, what should be the first thing I change?

Can I improve the rear end?

https://web.archive.org/web/20151109230749/http://www.fzrarchives.com:80/fzr400/FZR400 Frequently Asked Questions.html#What kind of horsepo… 7/10

What parts are interchangeable with the FZR600

My bike is hard to start all of a sudden, why?

My bike breaks up in high rev situations, why?

https://web.archive.org/web/20151109230749/http://www.fzrarchives.com:80/fzr400/FZR400 Frequently Asked Questions.html#What kind of horsepo… 8/10

Why don't they import it anymore?

Can I change the rear wheel to a 17 incher?

https://web.archive.org/web/20151109230749/http://www.fzrarchives.com:80/fzr400/FZR400 Frequently Asked Questions.html#What kind of horsepo… 9/10

Can I make my brake rotors full floating?

How do I remove the *&$#ing flywheel?

Can I find aftermarket bearings?

The FiZzeR Squad is a trademark of The FZR600 Archives.

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