The best Christmas desserts Issue No.308 Saturday 16 December 2023 Yotam Ottolenghi Edd Kimber Poached pears with Eggnog tiramisu coconut custard Rachel Roddy José Pizarro Chocolate and Threekingscake —_ amaretti flan Meera Sodha Benjamina Ebuehi Campari and Clementine and orange jelly cheesecake filo pud Rukmini Iyer Felicity Cloake Quick dateand Caribbeanrum gingertreacletart and fruit cake Claire Ptak Jacob Kenedy Fluffy coconut cake Happy endingsYotam walnut tiramisu Ottolenghi Prep 1Smin_—-~Preparethis aday ahead, but don’t, Cook 25min ‘top it with the last of the toasted chi ‘walnuts until just before serving, Seng 6t08 Thisisoneto earmark for after us ops, histmas, to, forany half-eaten ;panettone 3750), panettone looking for a good home. cutinto 2ervlongx’ fora good h lemwde fingers 300m doublecream Heat the oven to 180 (160C fan)/ Ytepvanilaentract gas 4, Put the panettone fingers on . 2008 gsugar —-anvoven rack and toast in the oven i Honlcofee bqveur, for 10 minutes, until slightly golden. dlostibspexte” Removeand leave for about 20 Inever really know what I want for ‘ogmascarpare_ minutes to.cool completely Christmas, but when it comes to festive sate se inalgebowland Whisk oso desserts, [m surprisingly certain. So certain, Zogyaint ted peaks. Pu the eggs, icing sugar and in fact, that Ihave fourrules. One: fruit, in all Powe) aseparelangebowLor inthe its forms, is always a splendid idea - poached, — ofa stand mixer, and whisk ona crystallised, candied, tinned or dried, its medium speed for six minutes, until : 5 5 pale, fluffy and doubled in size. ability to pull off sweet-but-not-too-heavy ‘Beat in the mascarpone into the is unparalleled. Two: plana dessert that you ‘egg mixture in two batches, then fold in the whipped cream mix until can make good day or so in advance - your een eee 3pm Christmas Day elf-self will thank you. ‘the mixture forms soft peaks. Three:everyone lovesa wobble. Jelly! Panna angi toassonblethe sami. cotta! Last, and most crucially, if you're ever Tiqueur and the coffee in a medium in doubt, add, drizzle or drench with booze. pome Dip the teestet Penernne fingers one by one in the coffee mix for just a few seconds, then arrange in the base of a 6cm-deep, 15cm x 30cm dessert dish - do this very {quickly, or the panettone fingers might fall apart. Repeat until you've used up half the fingers, then spoon ‘over half the cream mixture and use spatula carefully to spread it out evenly, Finely grate half the walnuts over the top, then repeat the layers of soaked panettone fingers and ‘cream. Dust the top with cocoa powder, then chill until required. Just before serving, finely grate the remaining walnuts over the top and take the tiramisu to the table. > —— Qveswarian © vesan cturentre ory teePrep 15min Cock 20min Set 68h Serves 812 For thejely ‘platinum gelatine Sheets e123 155, bac) {609 stom singer (about elobes) fray chopped 142889 tn mandarin segments Inthe ee seanee nd ce reserved ‘80g demerara sugar 300ml Grand Namier 2 sticks cnamon 2s ground cloves For the panna cota ‘3ptatnum gelatine Sheets ‘575ml double cream 300m whole mi 2 anil pods (15 pena paste) {60g demerara sugar Forthe orange and ‘gage toppina ‘rag stained mandarin segments, From the dramed tn above {Om syrup froma Jarotstem alnger 2p lemon ce 40gstom ginger. finaly steed (se Feapeintrodueton) Panna cotta and Grand Marnier jelly ‘This can almost be made in fulla few days ahead, but don't add the topping until you're ready to serve. Slice the stem ginger for the topping very thinly - use amandoline, ideally because it’s far too strong it’s not ‘cut super-thin, Forthe jelly, put the gelatine ina Dowland cover with cold water. Put the remaining jelly ingredients in a medium panon a medium heat, simmer gently for 10 minutes, then take off the heat. Liftthe gelatine out ofits water, squeeze out, then drop into the pan, stirring to dissolve -it should melt almost instantly. Add 100ml cold water and set aside for 30 minutes, to infuse and cool ~ don't leave it any longer or it will set. Pour the elly mix through a fine- mesh sieve intoa 19cm trifle mould (or glass bow), then put in the fridge for two to four hours to set. ‘When the jelly is set, make the ppanna cotta, Put the gelatine ina Dowland cover with cold water. Put ‘the other panna cotta ingredients in a medium pan on a medium: heat and bringto scalding point - that is, oust below a boil- then take off the heat. Lift the gelatine from its ‘water, squeeze out, then add to the cream mix and stirto dissolve. Set aside for about 30 minutes, to infuse asit cools to room temperature. ‘Once coo}, strain through a fine-mesh sieve onto the set jelly, stcring the panna cotta mixture so the vanilla seeds are evenly distributed, Putin the fridge to set for about four hours. Make the topping only once you're ready to serve. Mix the mandarin segments with the ginger syrup and lemon juice, and leave to infuse fora few minutes, Spoon the segments on top of the set panna cotta, along with 2 few tablespoons ofthe syrup mix, then top with the finely sliced stem ‘ginger. Spoon into bowls, drizzle on the remaining syrup mixand serve. oOo = ‘The Guardian Satay 16 December 2022Prep 25min Cook The 10min Cool) atv tafe serves 6 For the pars Silams peas, peeled, with sta 300g caster sugar eta anise lemons, tin pares off witha peel, then squeezed to gereomjace ‘5g dred hibiscus fowers forthe custard 100g eserstes toasted preferably inthe oven) Tespvanila bean paste '500m whole mith 300ml double cream Seg yolks ave the utes for nother ve) 70g caster suger ‘etep eked sat Singers 0c), tyokeminto tom Beces 440g unsalted butter, mates Setsp easter sugar ats faked: Hibiscus-poached pears with toasted coconut custard Althe elements can be made well ‘ahead: the pears up to three days bbeforchand and the custard and crunchy bits two. They'l all then sit patiently, waiting to be assembled. ut the peats, sugar, star aniseand the lemon peel and juice in a medium saucepan, and adda litre anda half of water. Cut outa circular piece of greaseproof paper to fitthe diameter ofthe pan, then tearasmall holein the middle about the sizeof a 1op piece: this will help the pears poach evenly. Bring the contents of the pan toa hard simmer, then cover with the paper, turn dawn, the heat to low and cook for 25-30 ‘minutes, until the tip of a sharp knife slides easily through the fruit. ‘Take off the heat and set aside for twoto three hours, until the pears and the liquid are both cool. Lift out the pears and set aside. Return the liguid toa medium heat, cook for another 30-35 minutes, until reduced and syrupy, then take off the heat and leave t0 cool for20 minutes. The syrup will thicken more asit cools. Meanwhile, make the custard, Put the toasted coconut, vanilla, milk and cream ina medium saucepan ona medium-high heat and stitevery now and then as it comestoa boil. ‘Take off the heat and leave to infuse foran hour, Strain the mix through a fine-mesh sieve (discard the solids), ‘and return to the same pan on a medium-low heat. Bring slowly toa steady simmer, then take off the heat, Whisk the egg yolks, sugar and saltina medium bow, then quickly ‘whisk in half the hot milk mixture, Pour the lot back into the milk pan, mix well, then put on a medium heat and cook gently, stirring often, for 10 to 12 minutes, until thickened, Cover with reusable kitchen wirap and leave to cool, Heat the oven to 180 (160C fan)/ ‘a5 4. Putall the ingredients for the crunchy its in a bowl, stir to mix, then spread out on an oven tray lined with baking paper. Bake for 10 minutes, until golden, then remove and leave to cool, To assemble the dish, divide the ‘custard between six shallow bowls, Cutthe pears in half and, using ‘teaspoon, remove the cores and inner stems. Arrange two pear halves in each bowl, spoon over some syrup and serve with the ‘crunchy bits scattered on top.FORTNUMANDMASON.COMJosé Pizarro Aroyal treat This traditional Spanish Christmas treat celebrates epiphany and the journey of los reyes magos (the three kings). It's shaped like a halo and we often hide a figure of the baby Jesus inside, muchas the Brits hide coins in Christmas pudding, Sometimes, there's a dried fava bean in there, too, but beware: ifyou find it, you have tomake the rosc6nnext year! This is great served with thick Spanish hot chocolate. Prep 10min Prove ahr cook 1h Cool 30mine Sees 10 5009 bread Nour, plus ite exta for ‘usting (5 ie ea sate 1609 whole milk Tey sachet fat- ‘action yeast Sogeaster 100g unsate butter stoned Finely grated zest of oranges 1 tbsp brandy 2medtumeggs, plus egg wit, to glans 200g mixed candied {rut chopped ‘bsp pert sugar Roscéon de reyes, orthe three kings cake Ifyou like, shape the bread into.a ring, then chill overnight. Let it come ‘back to room temperature and prove fora couple of hours, finish with the fruitand bake for breakfast or ‘levenses. Ifyou like, split the cake and fil with sweetened cream and/ ‘or more candied fruit -try to get ‘whole pieces to cut up yourself, rather than a tub of ready-chopped stuff you get in the supermarket, Sift the flour and saltintoa bowl, and ‘makea well inthe centre, Ina small ‘pan, heat the milk to lukewarm, then stir in the yeast and sugar. Pour the mill into the well in the flour, then mix toa thick batter, Dust with a bit more flour, then cover with a cloth and leave to rest for 15-20 minutes. ‘Add the butter, orange zest, brandy and eggs to the bowl, then use your hands to bring it all together intoa sticky mass. Tip out on toa floured surface and knead for 10 minutes, until smooth and elastic. Put ina lean bowl, cover and leave in awarm place for an hour or two, until ithas doubled in size and looks pillowy. Grease a baking sheet. Punch down, the dough, tip on toa worktop and knead briefly. Roll out into.a 4ocm-long x 18cm-wide rectangle, then roll intoa thick sausage. Shape into a ring you want it an even thickness all the way around - ‘then seal the ends to complete the circle. Transfer to the baking sheet, cover and leave ina warm place for an hour to an hour and a half, until ithas doubled in size again, Heat the oven to 2006 (180¢ fan)/ sgas6. Lightly beat the egg white, brush all over the bread, then press the candied fruit all over the dough. ‘Scatter with the peat! sugar and bake for 25-30 minutes, until golden and risen, Remove, leave to cool alittle, then cool on a rack before serving, either as its or splitand filled with sweetened whipped cream, (Feast) eMeera Sodha Campari and fresh orange jelly The new vegan e000 Pee tom you're pressed for tine, you Cook 1Omin could buy good-quality orange co ahr juice instead of squeezing your Sere ‘own, but the citrus zest really adds alovely touch here. Vege-Gel Seema, canbefoundinthetakingaiste Sncallucad toget of most major supermarkets, things, cha Soni Some , suchas Michael Bublé, {sachet Droetker Pour the orange juice into a small sprouts and tinsel, just shout W8BRee man _-PN, Sprinkle in the Vege-Gel and ‘Christmas!’ Others, a bit like Die Hard 2 tbsp easter sugar _stir until it dissolves. Pop the pan on 7 ‘scoopsnor-dary alow tomedium heat, bring briefly and charades, have never worn a vaniisiee-geam” toa bol then take ofthe heat, stir Christmas jumper themselves but still ‘Swedish Glace {hough the Campari and sugar to look the part in the festive lineup. Well, four ite glass, Leave the jellies Campariis one of those, too. Ithas strong tocool, then refrigerate fora couple yuletide credentials: it's red and it's boozy, {Side orange cet using ina for astart, but it also has spiced notes of damp paper towel and pop it in the clove, cinnamon anda hint of orange bakes nr peel, making it a perfect partner for the ‘ice-cream on top of each set jelly orange juice in these jellies and for ane Sree on Soe ote reserved otange 2st fusing general all-round merriment this season. 2Rukmini lyer Quick and easy This festive dessert is worlds away from traditional treacle tart, for which the canon dictates shortcrust pastry. Here, I've used ready-made puff fora light and flaky, custard tart-style case, which helpfully means that the whole thing can be thrown, together in just 30 minutes. In the filling, date and golden syrups unite for a rich, deeply flavoured set, spiked with festive ginger, clementines and cloves. Minutes to make, moments to disappear. Prep 15min Cook 30min oot 30min Sena 8 1809 golden syrup 2009 date syrup 2eags 2edementines, doth feated snd" pices Sedoves finely groure Semple fresh singer peed dna ny grated ‘bsp double cream 150g fresh white breadcrumbs 11.320g pac alle butter put pastry Cloted cream or ‘creme fiche, £2 Pomegranate seeds, tosene (optioned Spiced treacle tart with clementine ‘The spiced treacle filling will still work with a more traditional homemade shortcrust pastry, if ‘you have the time and inclination tomakeit. This quick, lighter version is for those who have guests arriving in 45 minutes with ‘no pudding made. Heat the oven to 200€ (1806 fan)/ ‘825 6. Whisk the golden syrup, date syrup, eggs, clementine zest and. juice, cloves and ginger with the double cream until smooth, then stirin the breadcrumbs. You will needa 24cm round tart tin that'sat least 3em deep. Now for bit of creative pastry cutting and sticking, Unroll the puff pastry into thetin -it should fit well over the base and about three-quarters of the sides, leaving along overhang ‘none side and a gap to which ‘you will need to add more pastry. ‘Neatly cut off the overhang, then pressit into the exposed side of the tin, Where the two pieces of pastry meet, there should be a roughly 1em. overlap: squash the pieces together securely. Trim all around the edge ‘witha sharp knife fora neat finish. (if you have a block of pastry rather than ready-roled, roll itintoas circular a shape as possible to fit ‘your dish before trimming.) Prick the pastry a couple of times witha fork, then pour inthe filling and bake for 30 minutes, until the ‘edges are golden and the filing firm ‘witha slight give when prodded, Leave the tart to cool in the tin for at least halfan hour. ‘This s lovely served still warm with cold creme fraiche or clotted cream, Ialso love it with a scattering ‘of pomegranate seeds, You can make itn advance, though: cool and store in an airtight container for up to two days, then warm through when needed,Edd Kimber The sweet spot My favourite Christmas tipple isa cup of spiced eggnog, and one of my favourite desserts, served at absolutely any time of the year, isa classic Italian tiramisu. Mash the two together and you get the very untraditional and delicious eggnog tiramisu. Many tiramisu recipes fold whipped egg whites through mascarpone to create a mousse-like texture, but I prefer the mascarpone to be rich and unctuous, so | leave out the egg whites and make small individual portions. They are quite rich, though - as any self-respecting Christmas dessert ought tobe. Serves 150m espresso, or sueng bac cote Smt darkrum 3trge oayels Sgt brow aur SEE vant ean paste Sep tos rated wtmes Rint of fe salt SSouemd beats ote nae Coens ponder and tne, for ding Dancehocoite, fh Eggnog tiramisu Pour the espresso and rum intoa ‘small shallow container and set aside. For the mascarpone cream, put the egg yolks, sugar, vanilla, nutmeg and salt ina large bow! set overa pan ‘of simmering water, Whisk constantly use an electric hand mixer, if you like - until the mixture turns thick and pale, almost like the texture of homemade mayonnaise. Take off the heat, add the mascarpone and ‘whisk to a thick and smooth cream. ‘Toassemble the dessert, break the sponge fingers into small pieces, then dunk them one by one into the coffee mixture fora couple of seconds. Make a layer of soaked Discus in the bottom of four small slasses (I used 130ml water glasses, Dut cocktail coupes will work, too). ‘Top the biscuits with half the ‘mascarpone cream, then repeat the layering so you have two layers each of soaked spongeand cream. Finish ‘witha light dusting of cocoa powder, brisk grating of nutmeg anda sprinkle of grated chocolate, then refrigerate for at least four hours before serving.Claire Ptak Surprise pairing Inthe American South, coconut cakes are a Christmas tradition. There are myriad variations: some call for fresh coconut, some desiccated, some flaked, some toasted. Iove the snowy appeal of a coconut cake in the winter, and it'sa welcome alternative to arich fruit cake. Poire belle héléne (or poached pears with chocolate sauce), meanwhile, is both elegant and simple, not to mention refreshing after a large meal. These two desserts go surprisingly well together on the table - or even on. the same plate. Prep 30m Cook 55min Serves 1248 Forth cake 009 desiccated faconit 14009 plain coconut ie 350g unsalted ister softened 4009 caster sugar ‘whole eggs. 30 ‘oom temperature 2tsp vn extract ‘tsp ine seasalt 300g plain our ‘tsp ang powder ‘egg whites bsp sen tbsp ten Sup Apis Mbspvania 2009 descr scant oe greets of Fesnencon, pss tew savogs Stbemcecon ceca eeiat cherie. 1 Fluffy coconut cake Heat the oven to 170 (1506 fan) gas 3/4, and grease and line two 2ocm x 30cm baking tins or three 2ocm round cake tins. Putthe desiccated coconut in a bowl, then stirin the coconut milk and leave ‘the coconut to absorb the milk and plump up. Ina stand mixer (or ina bow! with an electric whisk), cream the butter and sugar until pale and fluffy. Add the eggs one by one, mixing thoroughly, then the vanilla, and salt. Ina separate bowl, whisk the flour and baking powder, then ‘mix into the butter mixture until fully incorporated, Fold in the ‘coconut milk mixture and mix well. Distribute the cake mix evenly between the prepared tins, then bake in the middle of the oven for 45-55 minutes, or until springy to ‘the touch and askewer comes out clean. Remove and leave to cool. For the icing, put the egg whites, sugar, golden syrup, salt and vanilla Intoa heatproof bow! and set it ‘over pan of boiling water (don't Tet the water touch the bottom of. the bow! or it will cook the egg whites). Whisk continuously until ‘the sugar dissolves and the mixture js very warm to the touch. If you havea thermometer, heat it to75C. Ifyou don't havea thermometer, heat, whisking continuously, until the mixture is warm, opaque and the sugar feels dissolved when you rub a small amount between two fingers. This will take about seven ‘minutes, hence the icing’s name. ‘Transfer the bowl to an electric mixer stand and whisk on high speed to stiff peaks. Use straight away to ice the fully cooled cake, both between the layers and on the ‘top and sides; for extra fun, scatter a few chopped cherries between the layers, Decorate with desiccated ‘coconiut and cocktail cherries, then slice and serve. ‘The Guardlan Saturday 16 December 2029 ——Prep 20min _Putall the pear ingredients except Cook 1h the fruit ina heavy-based pot that’s Serves 4 just lange enough to hold the pears, add 750g cold water (weigh it out), then heat slovily to dissolve the Fe0gsauteres, or SUgAE- Peel the pears, keeping them otherdesertwne whole and with stems intact, then 600g castersugar_ lower into the hot liquid and cook at destandhceet ow simmer that with Met ea bubbles lager thanchampagne ‘itpepeos-tuse for 45 minutes toan hour, tnt mee soft tothe tip ofa smal, sharp hie. Keep the peas inthe syrup unt you ready to serve; ifmalking them 109709 dark ahead, clin the quid ~ they will att am Keep inthe fitdge for up toa week, acer Chop 100g af the chocolate into craenetache’"” — small pieces, then putin a small 2tbsp castersugar owl, Heat the double cream ina Uspvanilgextrect small saucepan to just below a boil 2 Wnopedccom,” —~it'at the right point when it starts wave to foam and steam, so watch that it doesn't boil over. Pour the hot cream over the chocolate and leave to sit and melt for 10 minutes, While it's still warm, stir until smooth, Wash out thecream pan, add the remaining 50g chocolate, the soured cream, 100g water, the sugar, vanilla and salt. Heat on a medium-low flame, whisking periodically, until it'sall melted, then turn up to ‘medium-high and cook for five ‘minutes more to thicken the mix slightly. Whisk into the chocolate ganache, then leave in a warm place, away from draughts, until ready to use. (The sauce will keep well inthe fridge for upto five days.) To serve, gently reheat the pears in their poaching liquid, being careful not to overcook them - they don’t need to be hot, just to have the chill taken out of them, ‘Trim the bases off the peats, soit can stand upright, then put each pear on a plate, Heat 500g of the poaching liquid in a small pan until reduced by half, and pour over the pears just before serving with the hot sauce and whipped cream. FeastRachel Roddy Tales from an Italian kitchen Itwas no doubt intended for drinks, ‘but with two oak shelves and brass ‘wheels, to meit looked like a perfect pudding trolley. It was also €150 and being used as a display for an ‘enormous number of small things at flea market, A good thing, 100, ‘otherwise I might have brought it home instead of the chair we actually needed. [regretted my decision, though; while 'm sure it ‘wasn’t an Osvaldo Borsani bar trolley, it damned well looked like ‘one, So went backa few days later, ‘only to find it with a “reserved” sign Now [feel regret, and resentment towards the stranger with my trolley. ‘This movable cart would have finally allowed me to recreate my fantasy pudding trolley, across between the Ballymaloe trolley in Myrtle Allen's book - with Irish apple cake, strawberry shortcake, chocolate ice-cream and iced ‘chocolate oranges - and the trolley ‘that might be wheeled between the aisles of a restaurant in Torino or Novara, with an urn of zabaione, ‘plump Sandwich biscuits, peach halves with almond middles, pineapple fans anda gleaming bonet. Prepared with milk, eggs, sugar, cocoa or chocolate, amaretti, maybe rum and cooked in a bain-marie, bonet- bunet in the Piedmontese dialect - is part of the soft dessert family that includes ‘custards and flans. Like its kindred dishes white bonet alla monferrina (which predates the arrival of chocolate in Europe) and creme caramel, bonet is baked ina caramel-lined tin, Inverted after cooking, the tin then gives the caramel to the pudding, providing itwith a glossy top and asyrupy sauce, Incidentally, according to 1783's Vocabolario Piemontese, written by a doctor called Maurizio Pipino, its the berretto-(hat-) shaped copper baking dish that sives bonet its name. Like creme caramel, bonet is useful because it can be made and baked in advance, either using small individual tins ora single lager one, In his Companion to Pood, Alan Davidson notes that one reason these puddings occupied such a large part of European restaurant dessert menus in the late 2oth century was convenience: ‘many could be prepared and kept until needed. ‘Another reason, of course, is their unobtrusive goodness. As with creme caramel, bonet can be inverted in advance. But I prefer waiting until ts nearly time to eat before dipping the base of the tin in hot water, which heats the caramel and loosens the custard, making it easier to invert on toa plate: beAonetispatof careful though, because itcan be Sesemensty a bit of a bellyflop. Last-minute evertfan font igyerting also means that, while histaedins’ —itmay have cooled, the brief dip Seenetine’2n both warms the caramel and gives the puddinga gentie wobble Heat the oven to 1506 (130C fany/ gas2, Ina bow, beat four eggs, sx Tablespoons of caster sugar two tablespoons of cocoa powder and Gog finely crushed amaretto thick paste then stir in 600ml ‘whole mlland leave to sit. Warm a22-24em baking tin inthe coven = this wll elpthe caramel Spread later, Ina small pan on a medium heat, leave three heaped tablespoons of sugat to melt unt liquid: Add three teaspoons of water and stc very fat while it bubbles into caramel Working auicky, get the warm tin out ofthe Sven, our in the caramel and tlt ‘unit completely covers the bae. Pour the mil mixture into the lined tn, putiton a deep baking tray and pour cold water into the tray unt itises halfway up the sides ofthe bonet tin Move the baking tray into the oven for 30 minutes, or unt the bonet is set (but wobbly), then lift out and leave to coal When the times right, una knife all around te edge ofthe bonet, dip the base of the tin in boiling water, then carefully invert this perfec festive puddingon to a serving plate, Put the serving plate anda bow of extra amaretti fn your ral or imaginary pudding trolley, and wheel tothe table. to) @At Aldi, you don’t have to buy 6 to get 25% off. eM Bae pte)Fiona Beckett Sweet temptations for the Christmas holiday You might think there was enough ‘sweet stuff on the menu over the holiday period without adding dessert wines to the mix, but apparently not. Christmas isthe one time of year when retailers, almost certainly responding to consumer demand, tend to have a good ‘selection: fortified wines such as port and sherry, obviously, but aso lighter dessert wines that, despite recent price increases, can still be remarkable value for money. ‘So when and with what should you todrink them? In fact, i's almost ‘easier to point out what doesn’t ‘work, Lighter wines such as sauiternes or their less expensive ‘equivalents (ee below) aren't great with classi festive desserts such as. Christmas puddingor a biiche de [Noél, and work much better with Four super-sweet wines to enjoy over Christmas Domaine de Lasserre Jurancon 2020 £725 (G75e) larger Co-ops, 12%, Luscious sweet wine from south-west France hitenu La ame % ourmand sane roivau-montzon (7 © } esnsest 16.8 Vow sjeotanteres aerate ‘Sérga Borhéz Tokai Kesoi Sruret Late Harvest Hirslevold 2022 £8.99 (Go) Lil, 12.59%. Lush, light, pineappley bargain ‘Campbell's Rutherglen Muscat £10.99 (375cl; on offer) Waitrose, 1759. ts ‘treacle tofee flavours go so well with Xmas pud lighter, fruitier, more citrussy desserts, Port, meanwhile, tends to be too strong even for mince pies, so save that for the stilton. And with some dessert wines, such as ultra- sweet ice wine (Lidl has an elegantly bottled 10.596 Vidal from Canadian producer Pitter! for £12.90), I's better tosip them on their own. Prices of fortified wines, especially port, are more unpredictable. With port, for instance, you need to know ‘What you're getting for your money. Basicruby ports that are labelled “vintage character” or “special reserve” may seem cheap, but they can often be quite spirty. Fyou want ‘moreof a mellow character, buy a late-bottled vintage that will generally hhave been aged for four tosix years at time of writing, Tesco has a good one in ts Finest range from the 2014 vintage for £13.50. Asa matter of fact, ‘mast own-labels are made by the big, port houses, so you won" realy be losing out by not buyinga well: known brand, Vintage ports are more expensive because they've been aged in bottle for several years (and therefore have tobe decanted, because a deposit will have accumulated). Older vintages can be spectacular, but these days they're fr from cheap and, unless your Christmas gathering includes port aficionados, Pm not sure youneed tospendsomuch. Prices vary hugely on tawny ports, too, Sainsbury's excellent 10-year-old tawiny inits Taste the Difference range was priced at £14.50 at a recent tasting but has since shot up to £21. Ald’s Fletcher’ 10-year-old, while not quite as good, is only £12.49, ‘There arealso moreaffordable alternatives such as marsala and cream sherry. Morrisons hasa textbook 1796 ne ofthe latter for £750 allt, which isan absolute steal, You could afford to pour Santa atumblerful of that, The good mixer Gloggtoddy Sener Forthewine syrup 1e750ml bottle red wine temranito, ‘renache, malbec Einandal something ‘witha good balance Of spice ana rut). 1 tbsp dried ‘lderberes orange, sce, sin ana ‘aloes ‘green cardamom pod nnamon stick {star anise ‘thum-sized piace {resh ginger, unpeeled siced 140g golden caster Sugar Fer the drink 2Smlred wine syrup Zee above and meted 35m brandy, whisky ‘errum or aoa), ‘Sepending on taste oranges, 0 ‘This was inspired by spiced win Pve enjoyed with Nordic friends over the festive period. They'd always usea commercial wine infusion, but Ifind them too ‘confected and lacking depth. This version has a stable base that can be tailored to whatever spirits you Ihave to hand, and can be whippé up quickly whenever the need arises over the coming weeks. Putall the syrup ingredients bar sugar ina large, heavy-based saucepan. Dip in a wooden spoo! ed the nto touch the bottom, then lift out and tiea piece of cooking twine around. the halfway mark, Bring toa gentle boil and leave to bubble away until reduced by half (use the twine or the spoon to guide you). Qn ‘Turn off the heat, whisk in the sugar to dissolve, then leave to cool. Strain into a clean jar or bottle, tl hen seal and store ina cool, dark spot, ‘where it will keep for three months. ‘To make the glogg toddy, pout measure of syrup into a ceramic ‘mug, add the brandy, whisky or rum, and top up with 1oml ithe just-boiled water. Garnish with an ‘orange slice and serve hot. Ryan Chetiyawardana, AKA Mr Lyan feast) °Benjamina Ebuehi Clementine filo The sweet spot cheesecake pud Prep 20min Put the clementine segments in Moceate 20min _ashallow bow! with the sugar, Cook 20min liqueurand staranise, then leave to Servs 6 ‘macerate for atleast 20 minutes. ‘danentes. eat the oven to 2006 (180¢ fan)/ mmentines (or, gas 6, Lay one sheet of filo pastry on onoges paced Thined baking tray, then brush the udding, istmas can’ ow eastersugar_— topall over with melted butter and F) LE ea fonfeandiaraer Guat withalitlecingsuga Lay afterthought. It's ashame, but I get it =o another sheet of filo on top and ~there’s usually an enormous bird and ‘sheets flo pastry —_tepeat, until you've used all four : der soit’ Toogunsated” sheets. Brush the top layer with many trimmings to consider, soit's no aeretee ter dust wth cng sugar and surprise that people want something 120g gery sprinkle over the sesame seeds. top with a few of the syrupy ‘lementines and shards of filo, and sprinkle with chopped pistachios. quick and easy to finish their meal $opcusmenece, browned then emove and leveto (that's if they don't just resort to the Finely ratedzestof coo}, Once cool, break into shards, giant tin of Quality Street). This very Feeatissernimil tre tine soerr ina oe aan aire low-effort puddings just the ticket: Paste chetead Until smooth. In asecond bowl, ~ Speedy, impressive anda perfect balance paces, oui SE eae ae eae = ofcrunchy,creamyand boozy. fold the cream into the cream 5 cheese mix. 5 ‘To serve, spoon dollops of the 5 se cheesecake ling into bowls, E : iFelicity Cloake Masterclass: black cake m=) | Granting the Christmas wish of Trini-Irish reader Niall, for whom this cake isan essential part of the festive celebrations, this Caribbean classic is sure to convert even the most convinced fruitcake sceptic, not least because of the generous helping ofrum., Each island has its own style, so this recipe is just a starting point: look up ones by Trinidad's Shivi Ramoutar, Jamaica's Brigid Ransome Washington and Barbados’ Paul Carmichael, among others, to see the difference. Puta the ded frit pan, dd your aeahol of Ghoiee, bring toa ‘Se, tan turn ‘off and leave to soak Wen youre ready tomake the ck blend the esked fut -how Stmeothly of coarsely isuptoyou oO = Prep 40min, plus soaking cook Str Motes 123em eke 2509 dried prunes 2509 currants 1009 deed sack cherie 100g raisins TSgeandied crus peal ‘800m dark rum, pluses forsosing ‘oom ery brandy Uqueur (se step 2) ‘Ségtrowning sauce, corsugar yup, tasta (sce sens 3 ana) 2509 plain flour Yetspne salt 2isp baking ponder {tsp ground ‘hnamen Yatsp ground nutmeg “tsp ground allspice 2009 dark brown Sugar ‘egos Ttspranila extract {ispatmend isthe fur, al pee and Baking powder. Beat the bitter and sugar Ins bow and the egg Sd van another 1Anoteon the fruit Jackie Christian, of Doreen's Jamaican Homemade Rum Cakes, makes her black cake to her late mum's recipe (itsavailable online). She steps her fruit for months, but rest assured ‘that you can make a delicious, ‘quicker version, Put the fruit in large saucepan, swappingin different fruits a you like - Riaz Phillips, for instance, uses dates in his book West Winds, 2Cover the fruit inbooze ‘Add the alcohol. Christian swears by Wray & Nephew’s overproof white rumand Keshia Sakarah, chef} owner of Caribe? inLondon, uses spiced rum, but dark rumseems the most popular choice, You coulduserum alone, but mast add something sweeterand fruitier, such as cherry brandy liqueur (Ramoutan), port (Camichae}) or sweet sherry (chef and journalist Ramin Ganeshram). Though notat all traditional, the likes ofsloe gin would work, too. ‘The Guardian Saturday 16 December 202235teep the fai ABlend thefruit 5Startthecake 6Combinethe 7Addtheflour 8Bakethecake 9 Finishing Bring the Onceyou'e batter eggsand butter mixandfruit’ Oncethe batter touches contentsofthe readytomake Puttheflour, With themotorFoldinthe dry isevenly mixed, Leave thecake pantoasimmer, thecake, putthe salt,baking” _stilunning, ingredients with spoonit intothe tocool i tumoff,cover ’ fruitinafood —powderand _— gradually beat alargespoon, —preparedtinand completelyin = andleavetosoak processoror _—«groundsspicesin theeggmixinto tryingto keepas smooththe top. thetin,then = forasiongasblenderand —abowl,whiskto thebuttermix, muchairas—Bakeforanhous, wrapwell in foil ¢ possible,andat whizztoapaste combine,then scrapingdown —_possibleinthe thenturndown’ orpaper-if = Teastovernight. -assmoothor setaside.In._thesidesofthe mixture, then _theheatto160C_storing, arty on Black cake aschunky 2s anotherbowl, _bowlasrequired, tipinthe fruit 140 fan)igas 3. brushingwith 3 partly getsits you like beatthe butter sononeofthe puree,citrus. andbakefor = morerum colourfom (Christian’sis_inastand mixer _butterand sugar zest and about fourhours occasionally, if 3 browning sauce verysmooth, or witha gets left behind; homemade more, untila youlike.Iceas 3 (from specialist but Ramoutar handheldfood —addaspoonful’ burt sugar skewer ar desired royal 3 Caribbean food prefershersa bit mixeruntilsoft, oftheflour syrup (Step )or toothpick icingis 2 stores),but_coatse).Linea__thenbeat inthe mixture if browningsauce, pushed intothe common, butit 5 youcanuse deep, loose-darkbrown ———necessary,to (Commercial centyecomes ‘looks beautiful 3 ‘treacle instead. bottomed 23cm —sugaruntilthe stop itcurdling_browningsauces outclean, Once enough without, = Altematively, cake tinwithmixislighterin GFitdoes curdle, varyinstrength, cooked, poke Unsurprisingly, make yourown bakingpaper _colourand it'snot theend | sostartsmall " holesalloverthe thiscake keeps = atthisstage,as andheatthe —voluminous.in ofthe world). andadjustuntil_ topofthecake —verywellfor recommended oven to 180C another bowl, the batter is nice and spoonover several months. 3 by Melissa (160 fan)/gas 4. beat the exes anddark,and alittemorerum. Alternatively, ‘Thompson in with the vanilla taste regularly to catimmediately. 2 her book extract and make sure it Motherland: almond essence. doesn't heat 50g soft ‘overpower light brown everythingelse) sugar toa dark brown syrup, then stirin 25m! hot water. Beat the eg mix ing the butter Tip the mixinto ‘mac then add the tinea cae tn, four moana fray bale ina medi the rat and the fvenforan our then | ronming sce turn downto low and Sale for four howe Poke hoes over the cooked he, then pou over Site more rum, ica tco0 before slngand servingKitchen aide Short and sweet: quick routes to Christmas desserts ‘What dessert hacks will make my layers in individual glasses, life easier this Christmas? “Crumble ginger biscuits or ‘Matt, Leeds amaretti, follow that with Life is infinitely better, not to ‘mascarpone whipped with cream mention easier, when ice-cream is and frazen and defrosted involved, and Christmasiis no cranberries, and top with shavings different, “You can fold inanything of chocolate.” You could, she adds, from crushed mince pies to cherries _ really go for it by adding splash of in brandy to excess Christmas rum to the mascarpone post whip. pudding to kids' selection boxesfor _-Macerated clementines are anemergency dessert that doesn’t another fine match for cream, ‘take up much-needed fridge space” Ebuehi segments the fruit and adds says Feast’s resident perfectionist to.adish “with abit of sugar, booze Felicity Cloake. I's the ultimate lazy ~ Cointreau or Grand Marnier would assembly job and will please both be good here staranise, and a youngandold-afterall,sheadds _cinnamonstick, if you want it to be sensibly, “everyone loves ice- ‘more aromatic” Let things mingle ccream”.'The frozen stuffalsotops __~ “the day before, ifyou have time, baking columnist Benjamina but even 15 minutes ahead will Ebuehi's Christmas hack list. “Let help” - until it gets all syrupy and theice-cream soften abit, tip into juicy, then “serve with cream lightly bowl, then add chopped chocolate whipped with vanilla and forChristmas cake. Combine, then shortbread fora quick, hands-off popitbackin the freezer” You could dessert that's still tasty”. then get all fancy and pour stuff Citrus is also Cloake’s strategy for over the ice-cream, which leads us “those who literally can't stomach to Ebuehi’s second hack: “Melt another rich dessert”. Thinly sliced chocolate and coconut ofl, pour it oranges, clementines and grapefruit ‘over the ice-cream and twillsetin (plus pomelo, if you want to push the freezer and forma nice shell” the boat out, Cloake says) wil “look ‘surplis Christmas pudding s pretty aranged on a platter, crying out tobe tumed into topper sprinkled with cinnamon and for pes, says Dina Macki, whose book _ ginger, and finely chopped mint or Bahariisoutnextyear:“Crumble pistachios for colour”. But do leftover pudding toast slightly; and remember that, just lke the rest of tusetotopapplepie oranythingelse usa this time of yea, citrus salad ‘you might sprinklea crumbleon." Any needs tochill before serving. lingeringchocolates-we'relooking Anna Bereill atyou, fuitcreams-canfind anew Got aculinary dilemma? lease flife as trues: “Chocolates Email feasta@theguardian.com witha strawberry or orange filling ‘work really nicely” Mackisays. “You _, don’t need to melt them too much, § just enough to soften the chocolate, 3 and you don't need toadd butter, £ because the gooey filling provides § the stickiness” Christmas pudding also hasa place here, so add leftovers 4 tothe melted chocolate mix. E There isalso good stuff tobe had # with frit and cream, which Macki Waste not... Citrus peel Tom Hunt Candied chocolate orange peel isa ‘great treat, especially ifserved with a chocolate orange old fashioned made using leRtover chocolate and candy syrup. Any citrus peel candies well -savea colourful variety (grapefruit, lemon, lime, say) in the freezer - though Pd advise using only organic, unwaxed frut to avoid excessive fungicides and pesticides, Candied chocolate orange peel ‘Cut 100-200g orange peel into 10mm- thickslivers, putin a pan and add cold water to cover. Bring toa boil, simmer forthree minutes, then strain. Repeat with fresh water, then strain again, Put 100g brown sugar and 180ml water in the pan, bring to boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar, then add the blanched peel, cover and simmer for 20-30 minutes, until the peelis tender and the liquid has reduced toa syrup (ifneed be, top up witha little water). Use a fork to lift out the peel and put ton a tray lined with greaseproof paper. Dust evenly with sugar, then leave to cool. ‘Meanwhile, cut $0g dark chocolate into small pieces, then melt in a small owl set over a bowl of hot water. Dipone end of each piece of peel in the chocolate, return to the tray and. refrigerate until you want toserve. Save the excess syrup and the chocolate bowl to make a chocolate ‘orange old fashioned. For each serving, pour 25ml syrup, 6oml rye ‘whiskey or bourbon and a dash of bitters into the warm chocolate bow Stirto combine, scraping all the chocolate from the sides of the bowl, then pour into an ice-filled rocks glass and garnish with a piece of chocolate-coated orange peel. ‘The Guardian Saturday 16 December 2022KEVIN, 71.CHRISTMAS DINNER. PRE-COOKED CHICKEN WINGS. EATEN COLD. 'PLUNDERED' FROM A FRIEND'S FRIDGE WHILE SOFA SURFING. STILL FEELS GUILTY. Buy a proper Christmas dinner for someone experiencing homelessness at homeless christmas dinners.comJacob Kenedy Finishwith (gy a flourish Ps ‘Christmas marks the beginning of the year’s end. But dessert -a flaming pudding, wobblicious trifle or aristocratic panettone~ need not mark the end of the festive feast. Instead, it marks time to relax, Time to load the table with ‘treats that sustain hours of simply being together. I stage a four- pronged attack on the senses. First, a downbeat cocktail. My ‘weapon of choice is the boulevardier, a spirit-laden take on the negroni; it is warming, aromatic ‘with citrus and a perfect way to ‘ease into the evening, Stir a measure or two of bourbon or rye, ameasure of sweet vermouth ‘Antica Formula, Martini Rosso or Cocchi Torino) and a measure of ‘Campari over plenty of ice, then strain over fresh ice in an old fashioned glass. Serve garnished ‘with a twist of orange. ‘Second, a platter of fruit, nuts and cheese designed to take time over, ‘fall the plates you serve at the Christmas table, this may be the ‘most dramatic - and the one ‘where your procurement really makes the difference. Here, too, be creative. Sugary fruits fresh dates or lage, flame-coloured seedless grapes ~can be served fresh or frozen (they turn into balls oftheir own sorbet); tangerines with their leaves on look nicer and taste better. Cheeses should be few ‘and carefully selected - like one blue (some English obscurity from Neal's Yard ora spoonable ‘gorgonzola dolce) and one hard sheep, probably a pecorino. Nuts always in their shells (the longer ‘they take to eat, the more they serve their purpose) walnuts and pecansare my favourites, Amaretti in those paper wrappers you can roll into cylindrical chimneys and ‘The Guardian Satay 16 December 2022‘Of all the plates you serve at the Christmas table, the platter of fruit, nuts and cheese may be the most dramatic’ ‘burn so their ashes rise as you make a wish, a wheel of panforte, candied orange slices dipped in chocolate, zimtsterne or lebkuchen. Everything tellsatale -of our cculture and the Christmas story, ofthe Levant, of Rome, of Germany, (of France and of Britain, ‘Third, one of my favourite eating experiences is at Cal Pep in Barcelona, where, at the end ofthe meal, there isn’t much choosing to do: you are brought empty glasses and full bottles of spirits - some ambient, some frozen and left to figure out what to do ‘with them, 1like to emulate this at home: bring an assortment of small ‘lasses to the table and lay out a few bottles, some frozen (amaretto, amaro, acquavit, schnapps) and some ambient (grappa, marsala, calvados). Your guests will know what to do with them, Fourth, as the candles die dawn and the grazing slows, you have ‘one last opportunity to raise the energy again with the same combination of sugar, fat and alcohol. Bring forth affogato, and I guarantee that everyone will adore you. Make some strong coffee {aug of espresso ora stovetop moka pot). Have ready a frozen bottle of amaro or amaretto (very “different things, and each as good asthe other here). And make a litte jug of hot chocolate sauce (70%-cocoa chocolate melted and stirred into an equal quantity of boiling water until smooth). For each person, serve asingle scoop of vanilla ice-cream ina small coupe or glass and let them ‘choose their own topping - any ofthe three liquids individually, rin any combination, will make fora dreamy affogato. And so the evening may, yet again, continue. ro @For adventurous eaters and curious cooks Sign up at: theguardian.com/feast-newsletter orscan nthe OR code