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Simple Two-Transistor Motorcycle Alarm
Simple Two-Transistor Motorcycle Alarm
Build this simple motorcycle alarm circuit yourself using cheap off-the-shelf components. It can be adapted to 6-volts for your "Classic Bike" - and it won't drain your battery.
COMMENTS
Circuit Description
Click Here For A Photograph Of The Prototype.
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The alarm is intended primarily for use on a motorcycle. I didn't want the circuit to drain the motorcycle battery - so
I designed it to have a very low standby current. This was achieved by using normally-open trigger switches. I also
made sure that there are no purely resistive connections between the positive rail and ground.
On a modern motorcycle you will normally use a 12-volt relay and a 12-volt siren. But the circuit will work at 6-volts.
So you can use it to protect your "Classic" machine. Just choose a relay and a siren suitable for the lower voltage.
Stripboard or Veroboard is a board drilled with a matrix of 1mm holes spaced approximately 2.5 mm apart and
joined in rows by copper strips. The piece required has 9 rows with 24 holes in each - and measures roughly 6 cm
by 2.5 cm. (2.5 in by 1 in). The drawing shows the board with PCB mounting terminal blocks but - to save money
and/or space - the wires may be soldered to veropins or directly to the board itself.
"Mercury Tilt Switches" are generally small glass bulbs with two contacts at one end. Inside the bulb is a "ball" of
mercury. When the switch is "tilted" a few degrees off the horizontal - the mercury flows to one end and connects
the contacts together.
Mercury tilt switches are expensive. You may prefer to use the cheaper "non-mercury" type. The main difficulty
with these is that - unlike mercury switches - you can't actually see what's happening inside. This can make them
troublesome to position accurately. When setting-up the switching point, you may find it helpful to use a small
buzzer - or an LED connected in series with a 2k2 resistor. Alternatively - you could Add The LED Module to the
alarm - and use it to help you position the switches.
Parts List
Construction Notes
The terminals are a good set of reference points. To fit them, you may need to enlarge the holes slightly. Then turn
the board over and use a felt-tip pen to mark the 7 places where the tracks are to be cut. Before you cut the tracks,
use the "actual size" drawing to Check That The Pattern is Correctly Marked .
Actual Size
When you're satisfied that the pattern is right - cut the tracks. Make sure that the copper is cut all the way through.
Sometimes a small strand of copper remains at the side of the cut and this will cause malfunction. Use a
magnifying glass - and backlight the board. It only takes the smallest strand of copper to cause a problem. If you
don't have the proper track-cutting tool - a 6 to 8mm drill-bit will do. Just use the drill-bit as a hand tool - there's no
need for a drilling machine.
Next fit the three resistors and the two links. I use a small piece of "Blu Tack" to hold the components and links in
http://uk.geocities.com/ronj_1217/sma.html 21.02.2009 00:15:50
Simple Two-Transistor Motorcycle Alarm Page 4
Next fit the three resistors and the two links. I use a small piece of "Blu Tack" to hold the components and links in
place temporarily - while I solder them to the board. A little putty or modelling clay should work equally as well.
The resistors are all shown lying flat on the board. However, R1 is mounted standing upright. For the two links, use
the off-cuts of wire you've trimmed from the resistors. Then fit the 2 transistors and the 3 diodes. Again, D3 is
mounted standing upright
Fit the capacitor and the relay. Pay particular attention to the orientation of the capacitor. Note that the positive
terminal faces downwards.
Next - double check the position and orientation of all of the components. Then examine the board very carefully -
to make sure that there are no unwanted solder bridges or other connections between the tracks. When you're
satisfied that everything is in order - add the three solder bridges to the underside of the board.
Whichever circuit you use, the relay will only be energized while the ignition is on. When the bike is parked and the
alarm is on, the relay coil is not using any current. So there is no drain on the battery.
Depending on the circuit, you'll need a single or double-pole relay with a contact rating of at least 1-amp. When
you have it all wired-up correctly, protect it from the elements by wrapping it well with several layers of electrical
tape.
Before fitting this or any other immobilizer to your bike, carefully consider both the safety implications of its
possible failure - and the legal consequences of installing a device that could cause an accident. If you decide to
proceed, you will need to use the highest standards of materials and workmanship.
Remember that the relay must be suitable for the current it's required to carry. Choose one specifically designed
for automobiles - it will be protected against the elements and will give the best long-term reliability. You don't want
it to let you down on a cold wet night - or worse still - in fast moving traffic!!!
it to let you down on a cold wet night - or worse still - in fast moving traffic!!!
Please note that I am UNABLE to help any further with either the choice of a suitable relay - or with advice on its
installation.