Warhammer 40K Tech Priest Cosplay - SKS Props

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By SKS Propswww.sksprops.com Follow More

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Steven (aka SKS Props) is a seasoned member of the RPF and a Pro Builder on the site
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Hey everyone Steve here at SKS Props back again with another cosplay build! This time I am
pushing my creative ability to the max! I am attempting to build an entire Warhammer 40K
Tech Priest costume in only a couple of weeks, to take to DragonCon! For those that don't know
the lore, the Tech Priests are the ones who craft / bless the weapons and armor for the
Emperor's Space Marines. I have been painting miniatures for years and it seems only fitting to
bring one of these guys into the real world. Foremost, I love how much detail and individuality
you can put into your own character, not one of them is exactly the same because they all
fulfill different roles within their war machine!

Before we begin let me say some of the products that are use in prop building can be bad for
you :(

So be safe!!! Always wear eye protection, wear gloves, and use a respirator when needed.
Lets get started!!!!

Step 1: I'm Now on YouTube!!!

Not only did I take a bunch of pics for the build thread, but I filmed a lot for my YouTube
channel. I would recommend to not only watch the videos but read through the steps it took to
bring this character to life. I've got a few videos edited now, but I'll be adding more as I work
through the collected content.

Also be sure to Subscribe to my YouTube channel for future builds!

https://www.youtube.com/SKSProps

Step 2: Reference and Materials

As with all of my prop/costume builds reference pictures are key. When you start to think
about making a prop or costume from a video game, movie, etc. always try and find as many
reference images as you can. Once I had a bunch of Tech Priest images downloaded from
google, I could start to figure out what kind of custom character I was going to create.

Products I used in this build to bring the Warhammer 40K Tech Priest to life!

FoamFollowing
- https://tntcosplaysupply.com/?ref=yvknq84

Skull - https://www.joann.com/the-boneyard-skull-with-move...

Ribbed Pipe - https://amzn.to/2ORjLYw

Ribbed Pipe - https://amzn.to/2MpMVRP

Dremel - https://amzn.to/2r7tdxy

Disc/Belt Sander - https://amzn.to/2r9DDvK

Barge Glue - https://amzn.to/2KLPtIZ

Bob Smith Super Glue 2oz - https://amzn.to/2r3LbzW

Bob Smith Glue Accelerator 2oz - https://amzn.to/2Khcsb3

Extra Tips for Glue Bottles - https://amzn.to/2JwuTuP

Rust-Oleum Antique Nickel - https://amzn.to/2IrHHSI

Mars Black - https://amzn.to/2I8kvIM

Iridescent Rich Silver - https://amzn.to/2KrQHoS

Raw Sienna - https://amzn.to/2Llbqeu

Iridescent Bright Silver - https://amzn.to/2LKywvq

1" Mop Brush - https://amzn.to/2HPta2X

Filbert Brush - https://amzn.to/2HPta2X

Liner Brush - https://amzn.to/2r4phN9

Step 3: Power Axe! the Head of the Axe

First off, I templated the axe head out of Bristol Board, then transferred that to 2" thick high
density foam from TNT Cosplay Supply. This half circle as well as the cogs were glued into
place using Bob Smith super glue and Barge cement. The cogs were then beveled on the belt
sander and cleaned up with a medium grit Dremel sanding drum.

Step 4: Power Axe - Breakdown

The Mars skull logo was drawn freehand to scale and transferred to 8mm foam. I used a
sanding drum and wood burner to smooth out and detail the skull. It was glued into place with
Barge cement and Bob Smith super glue, and Furniture tacks were used to simulate rivets. The
handle was made out of 1" PVC pipe and is designed to break down into 4 pieces, that way the
weapon can easily fit into a suite case for travel. The PVC pipe was skinned with 2mm foam
and couplers were used to attached the separated sections together.

Step 5: Power Axe - Vice and Screw

Projects
back
Next I started
All Projects
construction on the vice / screw on the back of the axe head. The main screw
body was aCircuits
TNT Cosplay Supply foam dowel wrapped in 4mm foam strips. The vice head and
teeth were onceback
again cut from 2" thick high density foam and glued into place. I really wanted
the vice and cogsAllto look as though everything had a purpose and see how turning one part
would activate the
Appleother.
Arduino
Step 6: Power Art Axe - Bits and Pieces
Assistive Tech
Audio
A bunch of resinCameras
cast pieces were added to the Warhammer 40K Power Axe axe as well as two
basic 3v 5mm LEDs.
Clocks All of the fake wires were cut from various scrap I had picked up from a
local salvage shop. The
Computers handle was wrapped with additional 8mm foam and detailed by slicing
into the foam with a utility knife, then hitting it with a heat gun allowing the seams to expand.
Electronics
The entire axe weighs
Gadgets about 4 pounds and breaks down into a small stack, not bad for a
cosplay prop. Lasers
LEDs
Linux
Step 7: Mechadendrite Pack - the Bones
Microcontrollers
Microsoft
Next up on my Warhammer
Mobile 40K Tech Priest cosplay I wanted to start the back pack with the
servo arm. I knew that thisPi
Raspberry part was going to be a little challenging, because the pack had to
not only hold a large arm on
Remote Control one side, but still have some sense of balance. The main back
board was cut from
Reuse 1/4" sintra I picked up at work (they were throwing out some old signs). I
measured out where the straps should go to best help balance the pack. Nylon straps were
Robots
glued / sewed into place and reinforced with barge cement and superglue. Parachute clips
Sensors
were used on the ends so that the pack could easily be taken on and off.
Software
Soldering
Step 8: Mechadendrite
Speakers Pack - Building Up the Details
Tools
USB
I built some walls out of high density foam to hold the PVC pipe and coupler in place. I figured
that it would beWearables
a lot more stable if the pipe ran all the way through the pack and was glued to
Websites
the opposite side. The additional bulky sections of the pack was built up using various
Wireless
thicknesses of foam. The Mars skull logo was etched and cut out on my glowforge laser cutter.

Step 9: Mechadendrite Arm - PVC Structure

The Tech Priest servo arm was based out of 1/2" PVC pipes and couplers. The arm was glued
Workshop
together but notback
at the lowest junction so that it could be taken off of the pack for transport.
The pipes were then
All wrapped or blocked out in foam. I felt this would give it more of the big
bulky feel Warhammer tends to have. The claw and teeth were cut from 2" thick blocks and
3D Printing
glued into place.Cars
Resin cast parts were added for additional detail, along with hydraulic pipes
(foam dowels from
CNCTNT Cosplay Supply) These sold the look that the arm could easily raise and
lower. Again I wanted
ElectricitVehicles
to at least look as though it was as functional as possible.
Energy
Step 10: Mechadendrite
Furniture Arm - Final Arm Details
Home Improvement
Additional layersHome Theater
of 2 and 4mm foam were built up to give the impression of a mechanical
Hydroponics
monstrosity. Wires were cut from various scrap cords and glued into resin cast pieces. A
smaller logo wasKnives
cut on the glowforge and glued to the arm too.
Laser Cutting
Lighting
Step 11: Mechadendrite
Metalworking Pack - Final Details
Molds & Casting
Some smooth onMotorcycles
325 was colored with some so-strong yellow and green dye and rotated in a
plastic bottle top. This will be attached to the stack on the right side as an additional detail.
Organizing
Pallets
Step 12: Tech RepairPriest Mask
Science
Shelves
I decided I wanted a mask for my Tech Priest because then I won't have to deal with any
prosthetics and Solar
I can add some really cool lighting effects for the eyes. Luckily for this build I
have a BioShockTools
motorized patriot mask mold that I made years ago, which will be repurposed
Woodworking
for my priest. I add some additional resin cast bits and built them out with some appoxi sculpt.
Workbenches
These will be ports for LEDs later in the build.
Step 13: Tech Pirest Robe - Basic Form
The Tech Priest's robes I put off as long as I could. I hate sewing. I can make just about
anything out of foam, mdf, or styrene but for some reason my sewing machine and I just
usually don't get along. I bought a bunch of fabric from the upholstery section at Joann's that I
thought was a good weight and texture for the build. I didn't have a pattern, but looked at some
pics on google of different Monk habbits and got the general shape of what everything should
be.
Craft
Step 14: Tech
back Priest Robe - Cog Details
All
Art of the robe was sewn together I painstakingly went through and cut out
After the basic shape
Books
all of the cog details and& Journals
sewed them onto the garments hood, sleeves, and hem. Honestly, this
Cardboard
is probably the best sewing I have ever done.
Cards
To bad I'm makingClayit pretty just to tear it up in the weathering phase :)
Costumes & Cosplay
Digital Graphics
Step 15: Robe Duct Tape
and Pack...So Far
Embroidery
I wanted to see how
Fashion the robe and pack looked at this point in the build.
Felt
Step 16: Servo Fiber ArtsSkull - Basic Shape
Gift Wrapping
Jewelry
Servo Skull!!! I have wanted to make a servo skull for a long time, even before I knew I was
Knitting
going to make this & Crochet
costume.
Leather
Mason IJars
While I was at Joann's stopped by the Halloween section and found the perfect skull with a
detachable jaw. No-Sew
No need to build a skull, work smarter not harder, especially on a deadline as
tight as this one.Paper
I bent some PCV pipe with a heat gun, so that it would look as though my
servo skull was Parties
floating&off Weddings
of the pack. I then covered the bent pipe with some corrugated
dishwasher drain Photography
hose and cut it to length. Once I was happy with the height of the skull I
Printmaking
drilled a hole in the bottom and glued it in place. Random pvc pipes and various foam bits
were applied soReuse
that the skull appeared to have metal augmentations. At this time I made sure
Sewing
to include my LEDs in and around the eye socket so that all of the wires could be covered up
Soapmaking
with detail pieces. These are 3v 5mm LEDs that have a basic on off switch and a coin battery
soldered inline. Wallets
More and more pipes, hoses, and wires were added until I got the look I
wanted.

Step 17: Servo Skull - Final

Again you can see a condensed build video of the servo skull on my YouTube channel.

Cooking
back
All
Bacon
BBQ & Grilling
Beverages
 Bread
How toBreakfast
make a Warhammer 40K Servo Skull Cospla…
Cospla…
Cake
Candy
Canning & Preserving
Cocktails & Mocktails
Coffee
Cookies
Cupcakes
Dessert
Homebrew
Main Course
Pasta
Pie
Pizza
Salad
Step 18: Mask Sandwiches
/R
​ espirator
Snacks & Appetizers
Soups & Stews
Because I am building a half
Vegetarian & robot
Veganhuman hybrid, I couldn't just have a normal voice :) So I
purchased a cheap voice changer off of amazon, took it apart, and rewired it to work for my
needs. First off I removed the trigger and wired in an on/off switch so that it could be
continuously on. Next I lengthened the leads of the mic so that the speaker could be in the
chest box and the mic would be up around my mouth. The box was constructed out of 1" thick
high density foam.

Step 19: Mask / R

​ espirator
Once I had the inner working of the voice changer where they needed to be, it was just a
matter of adding additional details to the box to make it look more interesting. I placed some
Living
random wires and hoses on the box, so I could get a sense of what the finished product to look
like. back
All
Beauty
Step 20: The Belt
Christmas
Cleaning
The belt was pretty straight forward. 10mm foam was cut to length and glued to the back of a
Decorating
Mars logo medallion I laser cut. A foam dowel was cut in half on the band saw and glued
Education
around the logo.Gardening
These same strips were glued down the length of the belt for additional detail.
Nylon straps and parachute clips were added so the belt could easily be put on and taken off.
Halloween
Health
Step 21: Test HidingFit!
Places
Holidays
Homesteading
This was the first time I got to try everything on and see how it all fit together. It is important to
Kids
assess the look of the entire costume as a whole before you start to paint and weather.
Kitchen
LEGO & K'NEX
Step 22: Plasti Dip
Life Hacks
Music
Now that all of the accessories
Office are built I can start the process of painting them and bringing
Supply Hacks
them to life! That process begins by first plasti dipping all of the foam props. I prefer to spray
Organizing
on 2-3 light coats
Pest
andControl
wait for them to completely dry before adding any of my base coat
primers. Pets
Pranks, Tricks, & Humor
Relationships
Step 23: Base Coats of Paint
Toys & Games
Travel
Once the Plasti Dip has fully cured I rattle can on base coats of color. In this case since pretty
Video Games
much everything has a metal look I went with Rustoleum Flat Antique Nickle. Notice how I
didn't completely cover the pieces with paint. I varied the amount of paint being applied to
give it more of a random look.

Step 24: Secondary Color

Since my character resides on the dusty red planet of Mars. I though it would be a good idea to
give the recesses of the props a light coat of Krylon Rust Red Primer. Most of this will be
covered upOutside
in the had painting process but It makes a huge difference having these colors
down as a base. back
All
Backyard
Step 25: Weathering
Beach the Robe
Bikes
The Tech PriestsBirding
Robe was obviously waaaay to clean for Mars so it needed some good old
fashioned weathering.
Boats The process started by spraying some Krylon black and grey primer
directly onto theCamping
cloth. This gave it a sooty greasy look that I though went well with the Priest.
The same Krylon Rust Red was used to slightly color the white areas around the hood, sleeves,
Climbing
and hem. Fire
Fishing
Once the paint had completely dried it was on to the belt sander. Slowly and deliberately I
Hunting
went around theKites
robe selectively sanding some of the areas to show wear and tear. This is a
process that youKnots
can easily overdo so be careful. Also be very aware of the amount of cloth
near the belt sander, it is very easy to get it caught up in the spinning belt.
Launchers
Paracord
Step 26: Back to the Mask
Rockets
Siege Engines
Skateboarding
The mask was primed with some tan khaki spray paint and then washed with Liquitex heavy
body Mars Black. Snow
Highlights were hand painted using Liquitex heavy body Unbleached
Titanium and the Sports
entire mask was clear coated with a matte varnish. Three 3v 5mm LEDs were
installed on the Survival
right side of the mask, these were wired to an on/off switch and a 2302 coin
Water
battery pack. Holes were carefully drilled and more scrap wires were cut and glued into place.

Step 27: Gloves

Alright I'm building on a crazy deadline so I'm finding any shortcuts I can. The gloves were
purchased from Lowes and sprayed with the exact same paints I used on the other fabricated
pieces. Torn ratty cloth will be wrapped around the hands and wrists to help conceal some of
the gloves design.

Step 28: Pipes!

I'm finally Teachers
to the point where I can start adding all of the pipes and wires to the chest piece.
This is a mix of dishwasher
back hoses, various cord concealers, and lots of random wires. Luckily I
have a salvage place
All not far from me and the owner was able to give me a great deal on a
bunch of junk. ELA
Math
Micro:bit
Step 29: A ​ ssembly
Science
Before Hand Painting
Social Studies
Before I start hand painting all of the metallic pieces, I wanted to assemble the entire costume
Engineering
so that I could get a sense of highlights and shadows. Plus this allowed me to get in an
MakeyMakey
impromptu photo shoot :)
Coding
Electronics
Step 30: Hand Painting
Robotics
Arduino
CNC
Now comes my favorite part...Hand Painting! This is where I can make all of those details I
Laser Cutting
have been painstakingly building look awesome. This step starts off by applying a wash of
3D Printing
Liquitex heavy body Mars Black to each prop. Once this dries I go back with the same black,
but no water, and 3Dreally
Designscrub the pigment into places that would be extremely grimy and
Art
dirty. Once that dries I start the highlight process on all of the metal bits. Using a 1" mop brush
Music
I apply thin layers of Liquitex heavy body Rich Silver to all of the highest parts of the build.
Theatre
This is also a step that you can overdo, so just apply a little bit at a time. You don't want to
Wood
cover up all of the Shop
really cool shadows layers that have built up. A lot of attention was paid to
the logos because Metal Shop their color change to be distinct but subtle.
I wanted
Resources
Grades K-2
Step 31: Getting Grades 3-5Close
Grades 6-8
Getting close to Grades
the finish
9-12line regarding the hand painting...however I am not really happy
with how the colors are blending together.
University+

Step 32: Adding Additonal Colors

After some debate I decided to accent some of the details with a brass paint, it was really able
to break up the look of the metal.

Step 33: Final Test Fitting

Here was the final test fit just to see how everything came together. It is really important to do
a final fitting. Even from these pics I can see that are a couple of things I still need to fix before
I take the finished product to DragonCon.

Step 34: Glamour Shots

All hail the Omnissiah!

I have a full photoshoot coming up at DragonCon next week and once I get new pics I will
update the build thread. But for now I am pretty happy with the shots from my shop. I hope
you enjoyed this build and please follow me for further awesome creations!

The construction videos are now on YouTube www.youtube.com/sksprops

You can also follow my work at: www.sksprops.com

Facebook www.facebook.com/stevenksmithprops

Instagram @SKSProps and Twitter @SKSProps

You can now support my work by becoming a Patreon! www.patreon.com/SKSProps

Step 35: DragonCon Pics!

I had a blast at DragonCon and people went nuts for the costume, here are some of the great
shots I got while I was there.

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36 Comments

VINlirious 2 years ago

what kind of fabric that you to make the robe ?

Reply

THECOLD 3 years ago

Watcha’ doin’ with that VR headset? After all, you’ve earned it!

Reply

dragoniteskittles 4 years ago

Will cotton work for the fabric?

 Reply

dragoniteskittles 4 years ago

This looks awesome is there a pattern for the robe? Or a post with more details on how
you made the robe? Do you know the type of fabric by any chance?

Reply

robotlord2004 4 years ago

so damn coool! imagin getting jumpscared by that!

Reply

The flying muffin 4 years ago

How did you make the hood part? I want to make a tech priest cosplay as well and don't
know how to make the robes

Reply

dieselpoweredpropsNZ 5 years ago

woah, that came out so cool! i love 40k

 Reply

hyperc00kie 5 years ago

nice

Reply

LenaElatbash 5 years ago

Wonderful!

Reply

Wraithbourn 5 years ago

Quite inspiring, nice work!

Reply

ThirdEarthDesign 6 years ago

Your props are so good they are just mind blowing.

 Reply

bryans workshop 6 years ago

Awesome!!

Reply

leomiranda 6 years ago

Just amazing!!!!!!

Reply

ossum 6 years ago

You have my vote, whoah, what an awesome costume and well documented. Your foam
work is really precise too. The idea of all that cloth around a belt sander gave me the
heebie-jeebies, glad you still have your arms. I guess losing one would just open up new
cosplay options though, so no big deal...

Reply

1 reply
 pablofiasco 6 years ago

You are always an inspiration dude, i think im gonna get off my rear and finish up some
old Servoskulls i had worked on for a dragoncon ages ago.

Reply

1 reply

YaënD 6 years ago

Argglllhhh, such a terrific cos ! really great work !

Reply

1 reply

M.C. Langer 6 years ago

Beautifully done. It's simply perfect!!!!

Reply

1 reply
 jessyratfink 6 years ago

:O :O :O This is fabulous.

Reply

1 reply

ianjuby 6 years ago

First of all, WOWSERS. Impressive!

Second, doesn't the spray-on plasti dip eat the SM styrofoam?

Reply

1 reply

Honus 6 years ago

After reading through this what I really like is how the techniques are broken down -
anyone could build something like this using readily available materials and tools. There's
nothing out of reach here for the average cosplayer- just good solid foam fabrication, a bit
of ingenuity and of course outstanding paint work. Well done sir!

Reply

1 reply
 Lorddrake 6 years ago

The emperor would be proud of the work you have done :)

Reply

1 reply

no_name65 6 years ago

01001000 01100001 01101001 01101100 00100000 01110100 01101000 01100101 00100000

01001111 01101101 01101110 01101001 01110011 01110011 01101001 01100001 01101000
00100001

Reply

2 replies

attosa 6 years ago

Wicked! :o

Reply

1 reply
 geekswoodshop 6 years ago

Didn't you just finish this build, and you've got the instructable up already? This is
fantastic, love the mix of different skills going on here. Amazing work, wish I could see it
in person, thanks for sharing!

Reply

1 reply

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