The Abaya Guide

A full guide to everything I want to know

Aljohara Alsudairy

White Sand | Riyadh 2023

Table of Contents
1. Introduction
2. Fabric Types
3. Care Instructions
4. Style variations
5. Cuts and Silhouettes
6. Hijabs
7. Shaylas
8. Other

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1. Introduction
1.1. An abaya is a traditional garment worn by women in many parts of the world,
particularly in the Middle East. This manual serves as a comprehensive guide to abayas,
covering fabric types, care instructions, and various style variations. Whether you're a
newcomer or an enthusiast, this manual aims to provide you with valuable knowledge
to enhance your understanding and care for abayas.

1.2. Origins and Evolution of the Abaya:

The abaya has a rich history that dates back centuries. Its origins can be traced to the Arabian
Peninsula, specifically Saudi Arabia, where it was worn as a traditional garment for modesty and
protection from the harsh desert environment. Initially, abayas were simple, loose-fitting, cloak-
like garments made from lightweight fabric, designed to cover the entire body from neck to
ankles.Over time, the abaya evolved in terms of design, fabric, and embellishments. It became an
integral part of Saudi Arabian culture and identity, symbolizing modesty, cultural heritage, and
religious values. The abaya transitioned from being solely functional to incorporating elements
of fashion and individual expression.

1.3. Abayas in Different Cultures:

The style, design, and cultural significance of abayas vary across different countries and regions.
Here are some notable examples:
 Saudi Arabia:
In Saudi Arabia, abayas are typically characterized by loose-fitting silhouettes, long sleeves, and
conservative designs. Black is the most common color, representing tradition and cultural norms.
However, in recent years, there has been a rise in colorful and embellished abayas, showcasing a
blend of modern and traditional styles.

 UAE (United Arab Emirates):

Emirati abayas often feature intricate embroidery, beading, or sequins, creating a luxurious and
glamorous look. They may have unique design elements like flared sleeves, different collar
styles, or cinched waists. The UAE is known for its fashion-forward approach to abaya design,
combining traditional influences with contemporary aesthetics.

 Morocco:
Moroccan abayas, known as "djellabas," have distinctive design features. They often include
hooded styles, vibrant colors, and decorative embroidery or embellishments. Djellabas are worn
by both men and women, reflecting the country's cultural heritage and traditions.

 Iran:
In Iran, the abaya is known as a "chador." The chador is a full-body cloak that covers the head,
hair, and body, leaving only the face visible. It is typically worn in a loose, draped style and is
often black. The chador is deeply rooted in Iranian culture and represents modesty and religious
observance.

 Other Regions:

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Abayas and similar garments can be found in various other regions with their own unique
cultural variations. For example, in North Africa, the "jalabiya" is a popular style of abaya,
featuring loose-fitting, flowy designs with vibrant colors and intricate embroidery.

Across all these diverse abaya traditions, modesty, cultural identity, and religious adherence are
central themes. Abayas serve as a means of expressing cultural values, preserving traditions, and
displaying individual style within the framework of modest attire.

It's important to note that while there are regional variations in abaya styles and designs, the
overarching purpose of the abaya remains consistent - to provide modesty and cover the body in
accordance with cultural and religious customs.

2. Fabric Types:

2.1. Black Crepe:

crepe fabric is a popular choice for abayas due to its elegant drape and versatility. It is a
lightweight, woven fabric with a slightly textured surface. Crepe abayas offer a graceful and
flowy look. They are suitable for various occasions and climates.

2.2. Nida:
is a synthetic fabric widely used for abayas. It is soft, lightweight, and provides a subtle sheen.
Nida abayas are known for their durability, comfort, and ease of maintenance. They are ideal
for everyday wear and come in various colors and designs.

2.3. Satin:
fabric offers a luxurious and glossy appearance. Satin abayas are often chosen for special
occasions due to their smooth and elegant drape. However, satin requires careful handling to
avoid snags and wrinkling. Satin abayas are suitable for moderate weather conditions.

2.4. Chiffon:
is a lightweight and sheer fabric that adds an ethereal touch to abayas. It is commonly used for
layering or as overlays on other fabrics. Chiffon abayas are delicate and require gentle care.
They are ideal for moderate weather conditions or as layering options.

2.5. Kashibo:
is a breathable and comfortable fabric choice for abayas. It has a slightly textured surface and a
soft feel. Kashibo abayas are known for their versatility and ease of wear in various climates.
They are suitable for both casual and formal occasions.

2.6. Linen:
fabric is breathable and suitable for warmer weather. Linen abayas offer a relaxed and casual
look. However, linen tends to wrinkle easily and requires careful ironing. Linen abayas are best
suited for hot climates.

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 2.7. Wool:
abayas provide warmth and are ideal for colder climates. They are typically lined or layered to
enhance insulation. Wool abayas should be professionally dry cleaned to maintain their quality.
They are suitable for cold weather conditions.

2.8. Lace:
is often used as an embellishment or overlay on abayas, adding a touch of elegance and
femininity. Lace abayas require delicate handling and may need handwashing or dry cleaning.
They can be worn in various weather conditions depending on the lining and layering.

2.9. Silk:
fabric is known for its smooth texture and luxurious appearance. Silk abayas are highly prized
for formal occasions but require delicate care. They should be dry cleaned or hand washed with
care. Silk abayas are suitable for moderate weather conditions.

2.10. Jersey:
Jersey fabric is stretchy and comfortable, offering a casual and relaxed look. It is often used for
everyday wear and is suitable for moderate weather conditions.

2.11. Georgette:
fabric has a slightly crinkled texture and a lightweight feel. It drapes beautifully and is
commonly used for layered abayas or those with flowing designs. Georgette abayas are
versatile and can be worn in various weather conditions.

2.12. Polyester:
is a synthetic fabric that is durable, easy to care for, and resistant to wrinkles. It is commonly
used for everyday abayas, as it is affordable and offers a wide range of colors and designs.
Polyester abayas are suitable for different weather conditions depending on their thickness and
lining.

2.13. Cotton:
fabric is breathable, lightweight, and comfortable. Cotton abayas are popular for their casual
and modest style, making them suitable for warmer climates. They are available in various
weights, allowing for versatility in different seasons.

2.14. Velvet:
abric has a soft, plush texture and a luxurious appearance. Velvet abayas are often chosen for
formal occasions and cooler weather. They provide warmth and elegance but require special
care to maintain their texture.

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 2.15. Organza:
is a lightweight and sheer fabric that adds a delicate and ethereal touch to abayas. It is
commonly used for overlays, sleeves, or embellishments. Organza abayas are best suited for
moderate weather conditions or as layering options.

2.16. Denim:
fabric is sturdy and durable, providing a casual and contemporary look to abayas. Denim abayas
are versatile and suitable for everyday wear, especially in cooler weather.

2.17. Crepe Chiffon:

is a blend of crepe and chiffon fabrics, offering the best of both worlds. It has a slightly textured
surface like crepe and the sheer, lightweight nature of chiffon. Crepe chiffon abayas are suitable
for various weather conditions depending on their thickness and layering.

2.18. Gabardine:
is a tightly woven fabric known for its durability and crease resistance. It is commonly used for
tailored and structured abayas. Gabardine abayas are versatile and suitable for different
weather conditions depending on their weight.

2.19. Taffeta:
is a crisp and smooth fabric known for its distinctive rustling sound. It offers a luxurious and
formal appearance, often chosen for special occasions and evening wear.

2.20. Brocade:
is a richly decorative fabric featuring intricate patterns and metallic threads. It has a textured
surface and adds opulence and elegance to abayas. Brocade abayas are typically worn for
festive events or formal gatherings.

2.21. Tulle:
is a lightweight and fine netting fabric that creates a soft and airy look. It is commonly used for
layering, overlays, or adding volume to abayas. Tulle abayas add a touch of romance and are
often seen in bridal or evening wear.

2.22. Jacquard:
Fabric features elaborate woven patterns or designs, adding texture and depth to abayas. It is
available in various weights and is suitable for both casual and formal occasions.

2.23. Suede:
fabric has a soft and velvety texture, often associated with a more casual and contemporary
style. Suede abayas provide a unique tactile experience and can be worn in cooler weather.

2.24. Rayon:
is a semi-synthetic fabric known for its softness and comfort. It has a smooth and lightweight
feel, making it suitable for everyday wear in moderate weather conditions.

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 2.25. Organza Silk:
combines the sheer elegance of organza with the luxurious qualities of silk. It offers a delicate
and ethereal look, commonly used for formal abayas and occasions.

By understanding the fabric types, caring for your abaya, and exploring various style variations,
you can confidently embrace the beauty and elegance of this traditional garment.
This manual aims to equip you with the necessary knowledge to enhance your abaya collection
and make informed choices regarding fabric, care, cuts, and styles. Enjoy the journey of
discovering and expressing your personal style with abayas!Each fabric type brings its own
unique characteristics and aesthetic appeal to abayas. The choice of fabric depends on personal
preferences, the occasion, climate, and desired style.

3. Care Instruction
Fabric Washing and Drying Ironing Storage Tips Stain Removal
Black Hand wash or machine wash in a gentle Iron on low heat or use a Store in a cool, dry place; Follow stain removal
Crepe cycle; air dry or tumble dry on low heat steamer avoid hanging in direct methods for delicate fabrics
sunlight

Nida Hand wash or machine wash in a gentle Iron on low heat or use a Store in a cool, dry place; Follow stain removal
cycle; air dry or tumble dry on low heat steamer avoid hanging in direct methods for delicate fabrics
sunlight

Satin Hand wash or machine wash in cold Iron on low heat or use a Hang or fold in a cool, dry Follow stain removal
water; air dry or tumble dry on low heat steamer place methods for delicate fabrics

Chiffon Hand wash with mild detergent; air dry Iron on low heat with a Store folded to prevent Handle stains promptly; test
or hang to drip dry pressing cloth or steam snags and wrinkles cleaning method on a small
area first

Kashibo Hand wash or machine wash in a gentle Iron on low heat or use a Hang or fold in a cool, dry Follow stain removal
cycle; air dry or tumble dry on low heat steamer place methods for delicate fabrics

Linen Hand wash or machine wash in cold Iron on medium heat with Fold and store in a cool, Treat stains promptly; avoid
water; air dry or tumble dry on low heat steam or press while damp dry place scrubbing or rubbing
excessively

Wool Dry clean recommended; spot clean Iron on low heat with a Store folded in a cool, dry Take wool to a professional
with a damp cloth if necessary pressing cloth or steam place for stubborn stains

Lace Hand wash with mild detergent; air dry Iron on low heat with a Store folded or hung in a Treat stains promptly; avoid
or lay flat to dry pressing cloth or steam cool, dry place rubbing or scrubbing

Silk Dry clean recommended; spot clean Iron on low heat with a Store folded in a cool, dry Seek professional help for
with a damp cloth if necessary pressing cloth or steam place tough stains

Jersey Machine wash in a gentle cycle; air dry Iron on low heat or use a Fold and store in a cool, Follow stain removal
or tumble dry on low heat steamer dry place methods for delicate fabrics

Georgette Hand wash with mild detergent; air dry Iron on low heat with a Hang or fold in a cool, dry Treat stains promptly; avoid
or hang to drip dry pressing cloth or steam place scrubbing or rubbing
excessively

Polyester Machine wash in a gentle cycle; air dry Iron on low heat or use a Hang or fold in a cool, dry Follow stain removal
or tumble dry on low heat steamer place methods for delicate fabrics

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 Cotton Machine wash in cold water; air dry or Iron on medium heat or as Fold and store in a cool, Treat stains promptly; follow
tumble dry on low heat needed dry place fabric-specific instructions

Velvet Dry clean recommended; spot clean Iron on low heat with a Hang or fold in a cool, dry Seek professional help for
with a damp cloth if necessary pressing cloth or steam place tough stains

Organza Hand wash with mild detergent; air dry Iron on low heat with a Store folded or hung in a Treat stains promptly; avoid
or lay flat to dry pressing cloth or steam cool, dry place rubbing or scrubbing

Denim Machine wash in cold water; air dry or Iron on medium heat or as Fold and store in a cool, Follow stain removal
tumble dry on low heat needed dry place methods for denim fabrics

Crepe Hand wash or machine wash in a gentle Iron on low heat or use a Hang or fold in a cool, dry Follow stain removal
Chiffon cycle; air dry or tumble dry on low heat steamer place methods for delicate fabrics

Gabardin Dry clean recommended; spot clean Iron on low heat with a Hang or fold in a cool, dry Seek professional help for
e with a damp cloth if necessary pressing cloth or steam place tough stains

Taffeta Dry clean recommended; spot clean Iron on low heat with a Hang or fold in a cool, dry Seek professional help for
with a damp cloth if necessary pressing cloth or steam place tough stains

Brocade Dry clean recommended; spot clean Iron on low heat with a Hang or fold in a cool, dry Seek professional help for
with a damp cloth if necessary pressing cloth or steam place tough stains

Tulle Hand wash with mild detergent; air dry Iron on low heat with a Store folded or hung in a Treat stains promptly; avoid
or lay flat to dry pressing cloth or steam cool, dry place rubbing or scrubbing

Jacquard Dry clean recommended; spot clean Iron on low heat with a Hang or fold in a cool, dry Seek professional help for
with a damp cloth if necessary pressing cloth or steam place tough stains

Suede Dry clean recommended; spot clean Use a suede brush or suede Store in a cool, dry place Treat stains promptly; seek
with a damp cloth if necessary eraser for maintenance professional help for
stubborn stains

Rayon Hand wash or machine wash in a gentle Iron on low heat or use a Store in a cool, dry place Follow stain removal
cycle; air dry or tumble dry on low heat steamer methods for delicate fabrics

Organza Hand wash with mild detergent; air dry Iron on low heat with a Store folded or hung in a Treat stains promptly; avoid
Silk or lay flat to dry pressing cloth or steam cool, dry place rubbing or scrubbing
Please note that these care instructions are general guidelines, and it's always recommended to check the specific
care label on your abaya for any fabric-specific instructions or precautions.

4. Style Variations:

4.1. Traditional Abaya:

The traditional abaya refers to the classic design that is loose-fitting, full-length, and typically
made of solid-colored fabric. It is characterized by its modest and simple style, with long sleeves
and a straight silhouette. Traditional abayas are often worn for everyday occasions and can be
paired with various accessories for added elegance.

4.2. Open Abaya:

The open abaya features a front opening, either partially or entirely, allowing the underlying
clothing to be visible. It can be worn as a layering piece over other garments, offering versatility

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in styling. Open abayas come in various designs, including those with buttons, zippers, or no
closures at all. This style allows for more freedom of movement and showcases the outfit
underneath.

4.3. Kimono Abaya:

Inspired by the Japanese kimono, the kimono abaya incorporates the loose and flowy silhouette
of a kimono into an abaya design. It often features wide sleeves, a belted waist, and intricate
patterns or embellishments. Kimono abayas provide a unique blend of cultural influences and
offer a fashionable twist to traditional attire.

4.4. Kaftan Abaya:

draws inspiration from Middle Eastern and North African kaftan designs. It is characterized by
its loose and relaxed fit, often with wide sleeves and ornate details. Kaftan abayas are known
for their elegance and comfort, making them suitable for both formal and casual occasions.

4.5. Flared Abaya:

features a fitted bodice that gradually flares out into a fuller skirt. This design adds a touch of
femininity and grace to the garment. Flared abayas come in various lengths and can be paired
with belts or sashes to accentuate the waistline. They are often chosen for special events or
formal gatherings.

4.6. Belted Abaya:

incorporates a belt or sash around the waist, providing a more tailored and structured look. The
belt can be tied or fastened, allowing for customization and defining the waistline. Belted
abayas offer versatility, as the belt can be changed to suit different outfits or occasions.

4.7. Embellished Abaya:

feature decorative elements such as embroidery, sequins, beads, or appliques. These
embellishments can be found on various parts of the abaya, including the sleeves, neckline, or
hemline. Embellished abayas add a touch of glamour and elegance, making them suitable for
formal events or occasions where a statement look is desired.

4.8. Two-Piece Abaya:

consists of a separate top and skirt or pants. This style offers versatility and the opportunity to
mix and match different pieces for a personalized look. The top can be a long tunic-style
garment, while the bottom can be a skirt or pants. Two-piece abayas provide a modern and
contemporary twist to traditional abaya attire.

5. Cuts and Silhouettes:

5.1. A-line:

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refers to an abaya silhouette that gradually widens from the shoulders to the hem, forming a
shape like the letter “A.” This cut offers a flattering and modest look, as it skims over the body
without clinging too closely.

5.2. Straight Cut:

features a silhouette that maintains a consistent width from the shoulders to the hem. It
provides a sleek and streamlined appearance, suitable for a minimalist and contemporary style.

5.3. Flared Cut:

is characterized by a skirt portion that flares out from the waist or hips, creating a flowing
and feminine look. This cut adds movement and elegance to the garment.

5.4. Kimono Sleeves:

are wide and flowing sleeves that are often incorporated into abayas. Inspired by traditional
Japanese kimono design, these sleeves provide a relaxed and graceful silhouette.

5.5. Bell Sleeves:

feature a flared shape that widens from the shoulder to the wrist, resembling the shape of a
bell. This cut adds a touch of drama and femininity to the abaya, creating a statement look.

5.6. Butterfly Sleeves:

are characterized by their wide, voluminous shape that resembles the wings of a butterfly. This
cut creates a bold and eye-catching style, perfect for those seeking a distinctive and fashion-
forward abaya design.

6. Hijabs and Shaylas:

6.1. Hijabs and shaylas are headscarves worn with abayas to complete the modest look.
They come in various fabrics, colors, and styles, allowing for personal expression and
creativity. Hijabs can be draped in different ways, such as the traditional wrap or more
modern styles like turbans or cap-inspired designs. Shaylas, commonly worn in the Gulf
region, are longer rectangular scarves that can be wrapped around the head or neck in
various styles. They can be matched or contrasted with the abaya for a coordinated or
statement look.

6.2. Hijabs:

6.3. Chiffon Hijab:

 Fabric: Chiffon is a lightweight and sheer fabric that drapes beautifully.
 Ideal Length: Typically, chiffon hijabs are around 70 to 80 inches long (180 to 200
cm) to allow for versatile styling options.

6.4. Jersey Hijab:

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  Fabric: Jersey fabric is stretchy and comfortable, offering a casual and relaxed
look.
 Ideal Length: Jersey hijabs are commonly around 70 to 75 inches long (180 to
190 cm), providing flexibility for various wrapping styles.

6.5. Cotton Hijab:

 Fabric: Cotton fabric is breathable, lightweight, and comfortable.
 Ideal Length: Cotton hijabs usually range from 70 to 80 inches long (180 to 200
cm), allowing for easy draping and styling.
6.6. Silk Hijab:
 Fabric: Silk fabric is known for its smooth texture and luxurious appearance.
 Ideal Length: Silk hijabs are generally around 60 to 70 inches long (150 to 180
cm), providing a lightweight and elegant option for styling.
6.7. Pashmina Hijab:
 Fabric: Pashmina refers to a blend of fine wool and silk or synthetic fibers,
offering warmth and softness.
 Ideal Length: Pashmina hijabs are typically around 70 to 80 inches long (180 to
200 cm), providing ample coverage and versatility.
7. Shaylas:
7.1. Satin Shayla:
 Fabric: Satin fabric offers a smooth and glossy appearance.
 Ideal Length: Satin shaylas are often around 70 to 80 inches long (180 to 200 cm)
to ensure comfortable and stylish draping.
7.2. Georgette Shayla:
 Fabric: Georgette fabric has a slightly crinkled texture and a lightweight feel.
 Ideal Length: Georgette shaylas are commonly around 70 to 80 inches long (180
to 200 cm), allowing for graceful draping and versatility.
7.3. Crepe Shayla:
 Fabric: Crepe fabric has a slightly textured surface and offers a comfortable
drape.
 Ideal Length: Crepe shaylas are typically around 70 to 80 inches long (180 to 200
cm), providing flexibility in styling options.
7.4. Viscose Shayla:
 Fabric: Viscose is a semi-synthetic fabric known for its softness and breathability.
 Ideal Length: Viscose shaylas are usually around 70 to 80 inches long (180 to 200
cm), offering a comfortable and versatile option for wrapping.

It's important to note that these measurements are general guidelines, and individual
preferences for hijab or shayla length may vary based on personal style and desired coverage.
Additionally, some individuals may prefer longer or shorter lengths for specific styling
techniques or cultural preferences.

8. Other

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Abaya Styling Tips:
 Layering Techniques: Explore different layering options with abayas, such as
pairing them with dresses, skirts, or pants. Experiment with contrasting colors or
textures to create unique and stylish combinations.

 Accessorizing Tips: Discover how to accessorize abayas with belts, statement

jewelry, scarves, or handbags to elevate the overall look. Learn about the latest
trends in abaya accessories and how to incorporate them effectively. c. Modest

 Outfit Inspirations: Get inspired by various modest outfit ideas featuring abayas,
including different styling ideas for casual, formal, or special occasions.

 Explore different fashion blogs, magazines, or social media platforms to find

inspiration and create your own signature style.

Abaya Care and Maintenance:

 Storing Abayas Long-term: Learn about the best practices for storing abayas
when they are not in use, including folding techniques, using garment bags, and
protecting them from dust or sunlight.
 Traveling with Abayas: Discover tips for packing abayas when traveling to ensure
they stay wrinkle-free and protected. Learn about portable garment steamers or
other travel-friendly options for maintaining the appearance of your abayas.
 Repair and Alteration Tips: Gain insights into common issues that may arise with
abayas, such as loose stitching or minor damages, and learn how to repair them.
 Understand the basics of altering abayas to achieve a better fit or to modify
certain design elements.

Abaya Sizing and Measurements:

 How to Measure for the Perfect Fit: Learn step-by-step instructions on how to measure
your body accurately for selecting the right-sized abaya.
 Understand the key measurements required, such as bust, waist, hips, sleeve length,
and overall length.

Adjusting Abayas for Different Body Types:

 Discover tips and techniques for making adjustments to abayas to accommodate
different body shapes, including tips for petite, plus size, or tall individuals. Learn about
tailoring options and alterations to ensure a comfortable and flattering fit.

Abaya Brands and Designers:

 Notable Abaya Designers: Explore renowned abaya designers from different regions and
learn about their signature styles and contributions to the fashion industry. Discover
designers who offer unique and innovative abaya designs.
Exploring Local and Global Abaya Brands:

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 Learn about various local and international abaya brands, their specialties, and their
reputation for quality, style, and customer satisfaction. Discover different sources and
platforms for purchasing abayas from these brands.

Abaya History and Cultural Significance:

 Origins and Evolution of the Abaya: Delve into the historical background of the abaya,
tracing its origins, cultural significance, and how it has evolved over time across different
regions and cultures.

Abaya DIY and Customization:

 Embellishment Ideas and Techniques: Explore creative ways to personalize abayas through
embellishments, such as adding lace, beads, embroidery, or appliques.
 Learn about different techniques and tools required for DIY embellishments.
 Customizing Abayas to Suit Personal Style: Discover methods for customizing abayas to
reflect your personal style, such as adding belts, altering sleeves, or modifying hemlines.
Understand the basics of sewing and tailoring to make small or significant changes to
abayas.

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