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B oh o

c•a•r•d•i
duster

h et
r oc
tl. c
original pattern B oh oduster
c•a•r•d•i

This pattern is available for personal use only. The pattern & photos included are
property of tl.crochet. Distribution and/or Reproduction of this pattern is prohibited. You
may sell your finished product online, in your shop, or at local markets with pattern
credit to tl.crochet. If you choose to post a finished product please acknowledge my IG
@ URL: https://www.instagram.com/tl.crochet/ and #bohocardiduster so I can see

t
your beautiful work! My patterns are tested by crocheters of all abilities, however, we

e
are human. If you have any issues or concerns, with this pattern, please reach out to
me directly. I have a private FB pattern instruction group @ URL:

h
https://www.facebook.com/groups/384981298835156

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for additional help with my patterns and photo sharing. Be sure to answer all entry
questions or it will decline entry. I can’t wait to see your finished creations & beautiful

o
Tracy Collins
color combo choices! Thank you for your purchase!

l. cr tracylynncrochet@gmail.com

t
intermediate skill set
gauge with the J (6.0) Hook, #3 Weight Yarn, and HDC:
4 Rows X 6 STS = 2” Square

one
notes B oh oduster
c•a•r•d•i

● Pattern is worked in multiples of 4. If you are eliminating lattice work from a sleeve,
you can work in multiples of 2 instead of 4 if needed.
● My beginning chainless foundation on both cardi/dusters pictured was 180 ST.
I am 5’1”; approx 115 lbs. My upper arm at the largest point is 12” around.

t
● I used 180 ST CT for the Ivory (Acrylic Yarn Bee Brushworks) and the Nutmeg

e
Nibbles (Cotton Yarn Bee Sugar Wheel). I used 100 beginning ST CT on the Pink
(Acrylic Yarn Bee DK). All 3 of these yarns are labeled a #3 weight but they all feel

h
very different in weight. Another reason it’s important to check your gauge.

c
● You will not see multiple ST CT at the end of the rows because there is such a wide

o
range of options. It will depend on the length you prefer

r
● On the Cardi/Duster & Sleeves: Odd numbered rows are when you are working on
the front & even numbered rows are when you are working on the back.

. c
Worked from the back, Bobbles will auto-pop forward.

l
● Chain at beginning of row does not count as a ST. I love CH 1 ONLY, no matter

t
what stitch follows because I feel like it keeps my rows straighter. If you prefer to
follow the rule of CH 2 before DC and CH 2 before TR, you may certainly do so.
● With large stitch counts such as these, it’s a good idea to put a stitch marker every
20 or 40 stitches on the current row you’re working. It’s much easier to work a small
“section” and may save some unnecessary frogging later.
● You’re actually starting your Cardi at a Side Seam and working toward the opposite
Side Seam.
● Google and YouTube are your best friend for any stitches you are unfamiliar with.
● For those of you who have worked several of my boho patterns in the past, you will
see there are many options for customizing the sleeves as you wish. As long as you
remember BO & TR are worked from back and SC & FPSC are worked on front.
● Made in cotton, mine is so drapy, soft & absorbent, I am using it as a swim cover.
● I usually block my pockets and let them dry overnight before stitching on.
PRO-TIP: Pin to blocking boards dry; spray with a mixture of water/fabric softener at
a 3:1 ratio; lay under a ceiling fan to dry. They’ll look good, and smell good too!
● For luxurious looking fringe, trim straight & STEAM IT!

two
Sizing Guide B
oh oduster
c•a•r•d•i

●Easily add width to your garment by adding Rows, preferably in the

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middle back. After Row 25 & before Row 28 DCXST stitches would

e
be the ideal place to add.

och
. cr
●Drape tape measure over shoulder to figure length

l
desired. Remember to figure for fringe, you may

t
need to deduct 4-6”.
●Easily add length to your garment by adding
stitches to the beginning foundation.

APPROXIMATES Beginning
FHDC Stitches

s u re to ch
CROPPED 100 - 120 be
a ll stit
st
CARDI 160 - 180 adju ounts as
c
DUSTER 200 - 220 o r d ingly he
a c c w o rk t

three
you ttern
pa
B oh oduster
c•a•r•d•i

special stitches

dc cross stitch

t
SK 1st ST, DC in the next ST. Go behind the DC you just made and DC into

e
the SK ST. You will never leave any stitch “skipped”. When 2 ST remain at
the end of the row, SK next ST, DC in last ST, go back and DC SK ST.

fptr
och
fptr2togcr
YO 2x, insert hook from right to left around the post specified,

.
pull up a loop, {YO, pull thru 2 loops} 3x

t l
YO 2x, insert hook from right to left around the post specified, pull up a loop,
{YO, pull thru 2 loops} 2x {2 loops on the hook};
YO 2x, insert hook from right to left around next post specified, pull up a
loop, {YO, pull thru 2 loops} 2x {3 loops on the hook} YO, pull thru all 3
loops.

bobble
Worked from the back, Bobbles will auto-pop forward.
YO, insert hook, YO, pull thru, YO, pull thru 2. Repeat 3x for 5 loops on the
hook. YO, pull thru all 5 loops.

four
B oh o
c•a•r•d•i
duster

h et
c
materials

o
● DK #3 Weight Yarn (duster length)

r
○ Sleeveless Approx 1400 Yds

c
○ Short Sleeves Approx. 1500 Yds

.
○ Long Sleeves Approx 1700 Yds

l
○ Bell Sleeves Approx 2000 Yds
● J (6.0 mm) Crochet Hook

t
● Scissors
● Tape Measure
● Stitch Markers
● Darning Needle

This can certainly be made with #4 weight yarn + K (6.5 mm) or L (7.0 mm) Hook, just take good
measurements & check your gauge.

abbreviations / us terms
CH - Chain HDC - Half Double Crochet
YO - Yarnover SLST(S) Slip Stitch(es)
SK - Skip FPSC - Front Post Single Crochet
ST(S) - Stitch(es) FPTR - Front Post Triple Crochet
SC - Single Crochet FPTR2TOG - Front Post Triple 2 Together
DC - Double Crochet FHDC - Foundation Half Double Crochet
DCXST - Double Crochet Cross Stitch RST - Right Side Together
TR - Triple Crochet RSO - Right Side Out
BO - Bobble Stitch SC2TOG - Single Crochet 2 Together
FSC - Foundation Single Crochet TR2TOG - Triple Crochet 2 Together
INC - Increase CT - Count

five
body B oh oduster
c•a•r•d•i
you are beginning at one side seam
working toward the other side seam

Row 1: 180 FHDC (Chainless Foundation). CH 1 & turn. (180)

Row 2: (Refer to Special Sitches: DC Cross ST) SK the 1st ST; *1 DC in the next
ST; 1 DC in the SK ST; SK the next ST*. Repeat from * to * until 2 ST remain.
SK next ST, DC in last ST, go back and ST in

t
SK ST. CH 1 & turn. (180)

e
Row 3: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (180)

h
Row 4: Repeat Row 2. CH 1 & turn.*DCXST) (180)

oc
Row 5: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (180)

r
Row 6: (back of work, bobbles pop to the front) 1 SC in each of the first 2 ST; *1 BO in

. c
the next ST; 1 SC in the next ST*. Repeat from * to * across. CH 1 & turn. (180)

l
Row 7: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (180)

t
Row 8: 1 DC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (180)

THIS IS WHERE THE “DIAMOND TRELLIS” ST BEGINS.


Here is the link to my YouTube showing how to begin and end each row.
URL: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRg978sZcGa_EDOiAhD7UjA?view_as=subscriber

Row 9: 1 SC in first 3 ST; FPTR2TOG around 2nd and 6th SC ST two rows below;
*SK ST (behind FPTR2TOG); 1 SC in the next 3 ST; FPTR2TOG around same SC
and 4th SC after that*. Repeat from * to * until 1 ST remains. Do an incomplete FPTR
around the last SC used (of Row 7) until 2 loops remain on your hook, insert hook in
last ST, YO and pull up a loop, YO and pull thru all 3 loops on hook.
CH 1 & turn. (180)

six
bodycont B oh oduster
MAKE SURE YOU c•a•r•d•i
ARE SKIPPING
THE ST THAT
COUNTS FOR
YOUR FPTR2TOG

h et
r oc
Row 10: 1 DC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (180)

. c
Row 11: 1 SC in first ST; 1 FPTR around FPTR2TOG below; *SK ST(behind

l
FPTR2TOG); 1 SC in the next 3 ST; FPTR2TOG around same FPTR2TOG and next

t
FPTR2TOG from Row 9*. Repeat from * to * until 2 ST remain. SC in the remaining 2
ST. CH 1 & turn. (180)

Row 12: 1 DC in each ST across.


CH 1 & turn. (180)

Row 13: 1 SC in first 3 ST;


FPTR2TOG around the 1st FPTR &
FPTR2TOG (from Row 11; SK ST
behind this FPTR2TOG); *1 SC in the next 3 ST; 1 FPTR2TOG around the same
FPTR2TOG next FPTR2TOG from row 11; (SK ST behind FPTR2TOG)*. Repeat from
* to * until 1 ST remains. Do an incomplete FPTR around the last FPTR2TOG & when
2 loops remain on your hook, insert hook in last ST, YO and pull up a loop, YO and pull
thru all 3 loops on hook. CH 1 & turn. (180)

seven
bodycont B oh oduster
c•a•r•d•i

Row 14: Repeat Row 6. CH 1 & turn. (SC/BO) (180)


Row 15: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (180)
Row 16: 1 TR in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (180)

t
Row 17: 1 SC in the first ST; 1 FPSC around the post of each ST across until 1 ST

e
remains. 1 SC in the last ST. CH 1 & turn. (180)

h
Row 18: Repeat Row 6 working in the top of Row 16. CH 1 & turn. (SC/BO) (180)

c
Row 19: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (180)

o
Row 20: Repeat Row 2. CH 1 & turn. (DCXST) (180)

r
Row 21: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (180)

. c
Row 22: Repeat Row 2. CH 1 & turn. (DCXST) (180)

tl
Row 23: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (180)

Row 24: Repeat Row 2. CH 1 & turn. (DCXST)

Row 25: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (180)


The next row is where you are going to stop short (at the halfway point) and turn to
form the neck. Remember, you are stopping at YOUR halfway point. Be sure to
adjust according to beginning ST CT.
Row 26: DCXST in 1st 90 STS. CH 1 & turn. (90)

Row 27: 1 SC in each ST across. Fasten off. (90)

With front of work facing you, count back 30 STS from where you fastened off. Insert
hook and join yarn. FSC 30 STS. CH 1 & turn.

eight
bodycont Boh oduster
c•a•r•d•i

*REMINDER: for Row 28 you will stitch half the row, then chain HALF your
total ST CT + 1

Row 28: (back of work) 90 DCXST to the center; CH 91 & turn. (181)

h et
r oc
tl. c
Row 29: 1 SC in 2nd CH and each ST across, making sure you remain on the front of
your work without twisting. CH 1 & turn. (180)

Row 30: Repeat Row 2. CH 1 & turn. (DCXST) (180)


Row 31: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (180)
Row 32: Repeat Row 2. CH 1 & turn. (DCXST) (180)

Row 33: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (180)

Row 34: Repeat Row 2. CH 1 & turn. (DCXST)

nine
bodycont B oh oduster
c•a•r•d•i

Row 35: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn.(180)


Row 36: Repeat Row 6. CH 1 & turn. (SC/BO) (180)
Row 37: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (180)
Row 38: Repeat Row 16. CH 1 & turn. (TR) (180)
Row 39: Repeat Row 17. CH 1 & turn. (FPSC) (180)

et
Row 40: (working in Row 38) Repeat Row 6. CH 1 & turn. (SC/BO) (180)

h
Row 41: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (180)

c
Row 42: 1 DC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (180)

o
Row 43: Repeat Row 9. CH 1 & turn. (TRELLIS) (180)

r
Row 44: 1 DC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (180)

. c
Row 45: Repeat Row 11. CH 1 & turn. (TRELLIS) (180)

l
Row 46: 1 DC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (180)

t
Row 47: Repeat Row 13. CH 1 & turn. (TRELLIS) (180)
Row 48: Repeat Row 6. CH 1 & turn. (SC/BO) (180)

Row 49: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (180)

Row 50: Repeat Row 2. CH 1 & turn. (DCXST) (180)


Row 51: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (180)
Row 52: Repeat Row 2. CH 1 & turn. (DCXST) (180)
Row 53: 1 HDC in each ST across. Fasten off. Weave ends. (180)
If you are making the sleeveless version, stop here and go to the page titled “Sleeveless
Version”.
If you are adding sleeves, move on to the page of Sleeve Style Instructions you prefer.

ten
sleeveless B oh oduster
c•a•r•d•i

version
Once you’ve fastened off after Row 53, fold RST at the shoulders. Match right sides
together, vertically.

h et
r oc
tl. c
Measure your armhole down from the shoulder, approx 9-10”. This meant seaming 70
STS on each side for me. SLST from the bottom of the Cardi toward the armhole.
Fasten off. After completing both sides, turn RSO. Add fringe at the bottom if you
prefer.

eleven
Short Sleeves B oh oduster
c•a•r•d•i

version
As mentioned in Notes, my upper arm is 12” around. I used 44 STS for beginning my
sleeves at the shoulders. To figure out which stitch I will insert my hook into and begin,
I did the math:

et
180 - 44 = 136 | 136/2 = 68
Count up from the bottom stitch (where you fastened off) 68 STS and insert hook into

h
the 69th ST from the back of your work, join yarn, CH 1. (You will eventually do this

c
same thing on the other side seam of the Cardi for your second sleeve.)

o
Row 1: (Refer to Special Sitches: DCXST) SK the 1st ST; *1 DC in the next ST; 1 DC

r
in the SK ST; SK the next ST*. Repeat from * to * until 2 ST remain. SK next ST, DC in

c
last ST, go back and ST in SK ST. CH 1 & turn. (44)

l.
Row 2: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (44)

t
Row 3: Repeat Row 1. CH 1 & turn. (DCXST) (44)

Row 4: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (44)

Row 5: Repeat Row 1. CH 1 & turn. (DCXST) (44)

Row 6: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (44)

Row 7: Repeat Row 1. CH 1 & turn. (DCXST) (44)

Row 8: 1 SC in each ST across. Fasten off. (44)

Repeat Rounds 1 - 8 on opposite side seam. Fasten off. Weave ends. Fold RST at the
shoulders. Seam sides and under armholes with SLSTS. (76)

twelve
straight sleeves B oh oduster
c•a•r•d•i

As mentioned in Notes, my upper arm is 12” around. I used 44 STS for beginning my
sleeves at the shoulders. To figure out which stitch I will insert my hook into and begin,
I did the math:
180 - 44 = 136 | 136/2 = 68
Count up from the bottom stitch (where you fastened off) 68 STS and insert hook into

t
the 69th ST from the back of your work, join yarn, CH 1. (You will eventually do this

e
same thing on the other side seam of the Cardi for your second sleeve.)

h
Row 1: (Refer to Special Sitches: DCXST) SK the 1st ST; *1 DC in the next ST; 1 DC
in the SK ST; SK the next ST*. Repeat from * to * until 2 ST remain. SK next ST, DC in

c
last ST, go back and ST in SK ST. CH 1 & turn. (44)

o
Row 2: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (44)

. cr
Row 3: Repeat Row 1. CH 1 & turn. (DCXST) (44)

l
Row 4: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (44)

t
Row 5: Repeat Row 1. CH 1 & turn. (DCXST) (44)

Row 6: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (44)

Row 7: Repeat Row 1. CH 1 & turn. (DCXST) (44)

Row 8: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (44)

Row 9: Repeat Row 1. CH 1 & turn. (DCXST) (44)

Row 10: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (44)

Row 11: 1 SC in each of the first 2 ST; *1 BO in the next ST; 1 SC in the next ST*
Repeat from * to * across. CH 1 & turn. (44)

Row 12: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (44)

thirteen
straight sleeves B oh oduster
c•a•r•d•i

Row 13: 1 TR in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (44)


Row 14: 1 SC in the first ST; 1 FPSC around the post of each ST across until 1 ST
remains. 1 SC in the last ST. CH 1 & turn. (44)

et
Row 15: (working in Row 13) 1 SC in each of the first 2 ST; *1 BO in the next ST; 1 SC
in the next ST* Repeat from * to * across. CH 1 & turn. (44)

ch
Row 16: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (44)

o
Row 17: Repeat Row 13. CH 1 & turn. (TR) (44)

r
Row 18: Repeat Row 14. CH 1 & turn. (FPSC) (44)

l. c
Row 19: (working in Row 17) Repeat Row 15. CH 1 & turn. (SC/BO) (44)

t
Row 20: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (44)

Row 21: 1 DC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (44)

Rows 22-26 are a repeat of the Trellis Instructions, follow Rows 9-13 on Pages 6 & 7 of
the Body Directions.

Row 27: 1 SC in each of the first 2 ST; *1 BO in the next ST; 1 SC in the next ST*
Repeat from * to * across. CH 1 & turn. (44)

Row 28: 1 SC in each ST across. Fasten off. (44)


Repeat sleeve instructions on the opposite Side Seam. Fold RST at the shoulders.
Match RST vertically. Seam sides up & under arm with SLSTS. (Approx 100 STS)

fourteen
bell sleeves B oh oduster
c•a•r•d•i

As mentioned in Notes, my upper arm is 12” around. I used 44 STS for beginning my
sleeves at the shoulders. To figure out which stitch I will insert my hook into and begin,
I did the math:
180 - 44 = 136 | 136/2 = 68

t
Count up from the bottom stitch (where you fastened off) 68 STS and insert hook into

e
the 69th ST from the back of your work, join yarn, CH 1. (You will eventually do this
same thing on the other side seam of the Cardi for your second sleeve.)

h
Row 1: (Refer to Special Sitches: DCXST) SK the 1st ST; *1 DC in the next ST; 1 DC

c
in the SK ST; SK the next ST*. Repeat from * to * until 2 ST remain.

o
SK next ST, DC in last ST, go back and ST in SK ST. CH 1 & turn. (44)

r
Row 2: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (44)

. c
Row 3: 1 SC in each of the first 2 ST; *1 BO in the next ST; 1 SC in the next ST*

l
Repeat from * to * across. CH 1 & turn. (44)

t
Row 4: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (44)

Row 5: 1 DC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (44)

Rows 6-10 are a repeat of the Trellis Instructions, follow Rows 9-13 on Pages 6 & 7 of
the Body Directions.

Row 11: 1 SC in each of the first 2 ST; *1 BO in the next ST; 1 SC in the next ST*
Repeat from * to * across. CH 1 & turn. (44)

Row 12: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (44)

Row 13: Repeat Row 1. CH 1 & turn. (DCXST) (44)

From here to the end, you will be increasing every other SC row until sleeve is desired
length. I stopped when I reached 60 STS, but I have short arms.

fifteen
bell sleeves B oh oduster
c•a•r•d•i

Row 14: 2 SC in first ST; 1 SC in each ST across until you reach the last ST; 2 SC in
last ST. CH 1 & turn. (46)

Row 15: Repeat Row 1. CH 1 & turn. (DCXST) (46)

Row 16: Repeat Row 14. CH 1 & turn. (SC INC) (48)

Row 17: Repeat Row 1. CH 1 & turn. (DCXST) (48)

Row 18: Repeat Row 14. CH 1 & turn. (SC INC) (50)

Row 19: Repeat Row 1. CH 1 & turn. (DCXST) (50)

Row 20: Repeat Row 14. CH 1 & turn. (SC INC) (52)

Row 21: Repeat Row 1. CH 1 & turn. (DCXST) (52)

Row 22: Repeat Row 14. CH 1 & turn. (SC INC) (54)

Row 23: Repeat Row 1. CH 1 & turn. (DCXST) (54)

Row 24: Repeat Row 14. CH 1 & turn. (SC INC) (56)

Row 25: Repeat Row 1. CH 1 & turn. (DCXST) (56)

Row 26: Repeat Row 14. CH 1 & turn. (SC INC) (58)

r
Row 27: Repeat Row 1. CH 1 & turn. (DCXST) (58)

. c
Row 28: Repeat Row 14. CH 1 & turn. (SC INC) (60)

l
Row 29: Repeat Row 1. CH 1 & turn. (DCXST) (60)

t
Repeat sleeve instructions on the opposite Side Seam.
Fold RST at the shoulders. Match RST vertically.
Seam sides up & under arm with SLSTS. I stop seaming
where the increasing begins. See red arrow in photo.
(Approx 86 STS)

sixteen
B oh oduster
c•a•r•d•i
Left hand
pocket
Row 1: 28 FSC (Chainless Foundation). CH 1 & turn. (28)

Row 2: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (28)

et
Row 3: 1 SC in each of the first 2 ST; *1 BO in the next ST;
1 SC in the next ST*. Repeat from * to * across. CH 1 & turn. (28)

ch
Row 4: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (28)

o
Row 5: 1 DC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (28)

r
Rows 6-10 are a repeat of the Trellis Instructions, follow

. c
Rows 9-13 on Pages 6 & 7 of the Body Directions.

l
Row 11: 1 SC in each of the first 2 ST; *1 BO in the next ST; 1 SC in the next ST*

t
Repeat from * to * across. CH 1 & turn. (28)

Row 12: SC2TOG; 1 SC in each of remaining STS across. CH 1 & turn. (27)

Row 13: 1 TR in each ST across until 2 remain; TR2TOG. CH 1 & turn. (26)

Row 14: 1 SC in the first ST; 1 FPSC around the post of each ST across until 1 ST
remains. 1 SC in the last ST. CH 1 & turn. (26)
Row 15: (working in Row 13) 1 SC in each of the first 2 ST; *1 BO in the next ST; 1 SC
in the next ST*. Repeat from * to * across until 2 STS remain; SC2TOG. CH 1 & turn.
(25)

Row 16: SC2TOG; 1 SC in each of remaining STS across. CH 1 & turn. (24)

Row 17: (Refer to Special Sitches: DCXST) SK the 1st ST; *1 DC in the next ST; 1
DC in the SK ST; SK the next ST*. Repeat from * to * until 2 ST remain. SK next ST,
DC in last ST, go back and ST in SK ST. CH 1 & turn. (24)

seventeen
B oh oduster
c•a•r•d•i
Left hand
pocket
Row 18: SC2TOG; SC2TOG; 1 SC in each of remaining STS across. CH 1 & turn. (22)
Row 19: (Refer to Special Sitches: DCXST) SK the 1st ST; *1 DC in the next ST; 1
DC in the SK ST; SK the next ST*. Repeat from * to * until 2 ST remain. SK next ST,
DC in last ST, go back and ST in SK ST. CH 1 & turn. (22)

et
Row 20: SC2TOG; SC2TOG; 1 SC in each of remaining STS across. CH 1 & turn. (20)

h
Row 21: (Refer to Special Sitches: DCXST) SK the 1st ST; *1 DC in the next ST; 1
DC in the SK ST; SK the next ST*. Repeat from * to * until 2 ST remain. SK next ST,

c
DC in last ST, go back and ST in SK ST. CH 1 & turn. (20)

o
Row 22: SC2TOG; SC2TOG; 1 SC in each of remaining STS across. CH 1 & turn. (18)

r
Row 23: (Refer to Special Sitches: DCXST) SK the 1st ST; *1 DC in the next ST; 1

. c
DC in the SK ST; SK the next ST*. Repeat from * to * until 2 ST remain. SK next ST,
DC in last ST, go back and ST in SK ST. CH 1 & turn. (18)

l
Row 24: SC2TOG; SC2TOG; 1 SC in each of remaining STS across. CH 1 & turn. (16)

t
Row 25: 1 SC in each ST across until 4 remain; SC2TOG; SC2TOG. Fasten off,
leaving a long tail for sewing pocket onto Cardi/Duster. (14)

Blocked pockets should be approx. 10” x 10” on the square side. Place pocket on the
cardi/duster where you prefer and stitch around the straight edges of the pocket, the
slanted edge is left open.

eighteen
B oh oduster
c•a•r•d•i
Right hand
pocket
Row 1: 28 FSC (Chainless Foundation). CH 1 & turn. (28)

Row 2: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (28)

t
Row 3: 1 SC in each of the first 2 ST; *1 BO in the next ST;
1 SC in the next ST*. Repeat from * to * across. CH 1 & turn. (28)

h e
Row 4: 1 SC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (28)

c
Row 5: 1 DC in each ST across. CH 1 & turn. (28)

o
Rows 6-10 are a repeat of the Trellis Instructions, follow Rows

r
9-13 on Pages 6 & 7 of the Body Directions.

. c
Row 11: 1 SC in each of the first 2 ST; *1 BO in the next ST; 1 SC in the next ST*

l
Repeat from * to * across. CH 1 & turn. (28)

t
Row 12: 1 SC in each ST across until 2 remain; SC2TOG. CH 1 & turn. (27)

Row 13: TR2TOG; 1 TR in remaining STS across. CH 1 & turn. (26)

Row 14: 1 SC in the first ST; 1 FPSC around the post of each ST across until 1 ST
remains. 1 SC in the last ST. CH 1 & turn. (26)
Row 15: (working in Row 13) SC2TOG; *1 BO in the next ST; 1 SC in the next ST*.
Repeat from * to * across. CH 1 & turn. (25)

Row 16: 1 SC in each ST across; SC2TOG. CH 1 & turn. (24)

Row 17: (Refer to Special Sitches: DCXST) SK the 1st ST; *1 DC in the next ST; 1
DC in the SK ST; SK the next ST*. Repeat from * to * until 2 ST remain. SK next ST,
DC in last ST, go back and ST in SK ST. CH 1 & turn. (24)

nineteen
B oh oduster
c•a•r•d•i
Right hand
pocket
Row 18: 1 SC in each ST across until 4 STS remain; SC2TOG; SC2TOG. CH 1 & turn.
(22)
Row 19: (Refer to Special Sitches: DCXST) SK the 1st ST; *1 DC in the next ST; 1

t
DC in the SK ST; SK the next ST*. Repeat from * to * until 2 ST remain. SK next ST,

e
DC in last ST, go back and ST in SK ST. CH 1 & turn. (22)
Row 20: 1 SC in each ST across until 4 STS remain; SC2TOG; SC2TOG. CH 1 & turn.

h
(20)

c
Row 21: (Refer to Special Sitches: DCXST) SK the 1st ST; *1 DC in the next ST; 1

o
DC in the SK ST; SK the next ST*. Repeat from * to * until 2 ST remain. SK next ST,

r
DC in last ST, go back and ST in SK ST. CH 1 & turn. (20)

c
Row 22: 1 SC in each ST across until 4 STS remain; SC2TOG; SC2TOG. CH 1 & turn.

.
(18)

l
Row 23: (Refer to Special Sitches: DCXST) SK the 1st ST; *1 DC in the next ST; 1

t
DC in the SK ST; SK the next ST*. Repeat from * to * until 2 ST remain. SK next ST,
DC in last ST, go back and ST in SK ST. CH 1 & turn. (18)
Row 24: 1 SC in each ST across until 4 STS remain; SC2TOG; SC2TOG. CH 1 & turn.
(16)
Row 25: SC2TOG; SC2TOG; 1 SC in each remaining ST across. Fasten off, leaving a
long tail for sewing pocket onto Cardi/Duster. (14)

Blocked pockets should be approx. 10” x 10” on the square side. Place pocket on the
cardi/duster where you prefer and stitch around the straight edges of the pocket, the
slanted edge left open.

twenty
B oh oduster
c•a•r•d•i

adding fringe
Add fringe if you prefer; I cut 2 strands of 12” for each tassel.
Evenly space them around bottom of cardi & along bell sleeves.

t
Cut the fringe, straightening up the edges.

e
Steaming your fringe makes it even more beautiful!

och
l. cr
t

Twenty-one

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