Davar MAKINGFATEHPURSKR 1975

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THE MAKING OF FATEHPUR SĪKRĪ

Author(s): Satish K. Davar


Source: Journal of the Royal Society of Arts , NOVEMBER 1975, Vol. 123, No. 5232
(NOVEMBER 1975), pp. 781-805
Published by: Royal Society for the Encouragement of Arts, Manufactures and
Commerce

Stable URL: https://www.jstor.org/stable/41372237

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THE MAKING OF
FATEHPUR SÏKRÏ

I The Sir George Birdwood Memorial Lec


I Satish K. Davor , BA, В Archy MRP , A
delivered to the Commonwealth Section of the Society
on Tuesday y 29th April > J97 5 5 with Sir James Richards ,
СБЕ, ARI В Ay in the Chair

The Chairman: Our speaker this evening is architect, a planner and a historian, and when
Mr. Satish K. Davar, who is going to talk about the book he is preparing on the city is published
the remarkable story of Fatehpur Sikri, which we shall know a great deal more about how the
was built by that great patron of the arts, the city was designed and built. He is going to tell
Mughal Emperor Akbar, in the latter part of the us this evening about the progress of his re-
sixteenth century. It was only occupied as the searches at Fatehpur Sikri and the conclusions
administrative capital of Akbar's empire for that he has drawn from them.
fifteen years, after which it was deserted ; and it This series of annual lectures was founded as
has remained deserted ever since, that is for far back as 1920 in memory of Sir George
nearly four centuries. The central parts of the Birdwood, who lived from 1830 to 19 17. He was
city, however, are still in a wonderful state of a great authority on Indian art and design, was
preservation which has made Fatehpur Sikri one a voluminous writer, a scholar and an enthusi-
of the most admired architectural monuments in ast. He was also a Member of the Council of this
India. It is visited by thousands of people bothSociety for over twenty years and did much to
for its beauty and for its fascinating combination
bring the arts of India within its purview. Past
of Mughal, Räjpüt and Persian styles of architec-
Birdwood Lectures have dealt with a fascinating
ture. I emphasize that it is the central partsrange
of of Indian subjects. I have been told only
the city that are so remarkably preserved. These
this evening, incidentally, that the Chairman at
are what the visitors explore. But within the the first Birdwood Lecture was none other than
enclosing walls there are acres more that are still
Lord Curzon, which makes me very proud to be
in ruins or of which traces only remain, andsitting
it in the same place! I am sure Mr. Satish
has been Mr. Satish Davar's task during the past
Davar will give a lecture that Birdwood himself
six years or more to investigate and identify would have valued.
these less known parts of the city. He is an

The following lecture , which was illustrated , was then delivered.

the scattered ruins of Fatehpur Sikri with


a keen personal interest in Fatehpur groups of student architects from Delhi
May a Sikri, keen I first
Sikri,forfor personal
taking thethank
chair taking
to-day, interest Sir the James, chair in Fatehpur who to-day, has School was a stimulating experience which
and then express my pleasure and gratitude eventually led me to undertake fairly exten-
to the Royal Society of Arts for asking me sive site surveys over five winters in order to
to present this Sir George Birdwood reconstruct (on paper) this vast area which
Memorial Lecture. It was indeed an honour was neglected and unrecorded so far. The
to accept this opportunity to speak on a site evidence thus obtained, historical
topic which has been of absorbing interest records of the period and a comparative study
to me for a fairly long time. Looking around of other contemporary cities, enable us to

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JOURNAL OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY OF ARTS NOVEMBER 1975

Figure i. View through Buland Darwãzã leading to the wh


marble Chishtï tomb in the Jãmi Masjid courtyard

experience, interpret and analyse country, Fatehpur


with its lofty southern gate and a
Sïkrï as a living city of Mughal gem-likeIndia.
miniatureThese
marble tomb for the
site explorations, besides providing Chishtï saint, ais work-
a fascinating complex; and
ing base, reveal the enormous most development
of the visitors end their visit to the
potential of this area for educational, monuments here.
archaeological and tourism purposes. At the To comprehend Fatehpur Sïkrï as a city
same time they make me acutely aware of we should look beyond this tourist's com-
the rapid deterioration of these monuments plex, even beyond the Sïkrï of the Archae-
and the surrounding ruins, taking place ological Survey, and look at Akbar's city in
constantly, at all levels, due to official and
its entirety in a conceptual way to ascertain
public indifference. I am extremely con- if any ground rules, traditional practices,
cerned about this thoughtless unmaking of topographical considerations or special cir-
Fatehpur Sïkrï, which unfortunately seems cumstances, are manifest in this sixteenth-
like an irreversible process. century town layout. Architecture and town
It was a little over 400 years ago, whenlayouts are closely related arts and it is per-
Michelangelo was busy working on his plans haps a fair assumption that one cánnot have
for St. Peter's in Rome, that the third beautiful building complexes in a badly
Mughal Emperor Akbar - a contemporaryconsidered town layout. No work of art that
of Queen Elizabeth I of England - decidedhas stood the test of time is a product of
chance or accident, much less a designed
to build a new city for his court and residence
near Ägrä in India. Its splendid palaces with city, which is a synthesis of many skills,
their sunken gardens, multi-storied pleasure enormous teamwork, indigenous influences,
pavilions, and various courts for public and, it is to be hoped, an overriding inspira-
appearance and state work are known for tion. A city is the largest visual manifestation
their exquisite elegance and an intensely of man as an individual and as a communal
individual architectural character. The ad- being.
joining Jãmi-Masjid, one of the largest in the Fatehpur Sïkrï, according to Ralph

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NOVEMBER I975 THE MAKING OF FATEHPUR SIKRI

Fitch1 - one of the British merchants at resources, it readily assimilated the personal
and emotional responses of its founder.
Akbar's court - was among the largest cities
of the world at that time. Here, as we know, Having lost a few children in infancy, an
were concentrated the arts of India in a anxious Akbar visited several shrines and
cosmopolitan setting under one of the holy men where he offered prayers and
great-
est and most humane brains in Indian sought blessings for the birth of an heir and
history. A palace citadel was built and a successor to the throne. Amongst the Muslim
metropolitan city planned in less than a divines of that time was Salim Chishtl,3 who
decade. The speed of construction, men- had recently returned to his unassuming
tioned in several contemporary accounts, hermitage on the Sïkrï hill after a consider-
meant numerous groups of builders and able absence. He was a well-travelled man,
artisans working on separate projects rising and had made more than twenty pilgrimages
àt the same time.2 The situation can be quite to Mecca, most of them on foot. His spread-
chaotic without an overall concept and ing fame brought Akbar barefooted to his
specific guidelines for the entire area. Whatdoor. It was the spell of the octagenarian
were those guidelines? What was the con- saint's personality, or his prophecy that
cept or the art process ? Here, we venture toAkbar would have three sons, that comforted
participate in that art process, which by Akbar's troubled mind, The impact was
revealing itself would perhaps augment the immediate. A few royal palaces were
art product. This is an inquiry into the hurriedly constructed adjoining the Shaikh's
mental anticipation of a combination of house as Akbar decided to reside on Sïkrï
means to achieve this end product. hill. The decision to build an entire city on
Fatehpur Sïkrï was a vigorous city, a the spot and to move the court there per-
product of exceptional circumstances. De- manently, followed a year later.
signed from scratch and speedily built, Akbar's passion for building was insati-
utilizing all available talent and unlimited able. Despite the fact that he had already

Figure 2. Akbar's Day Palace ( popularly known as Turkish


Sultana's house ) and the decorative water tank

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JOURNAL OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY OF ARTS NOVEMBER 1975

started work on the Lãhore and wide moats


Agra all forts,
around. City plans were based
Akbar also began building the city of on concentric circles, but Sïkrï was different.
Fatehpur, which eventually became the It was an open city. Since the usual fortifi-
greatest of all his architectural projects. And cations were dispensed with, a new civic
yet in less than fifteen years, when Akbar relationship developed between the town
moved his court to Lãhore, the city was to and the hill-top palaces. The influence of
be totally abandoned, to the point that fine buildings was skilfully radiated out-
travellers would find it unsafe to go through it. wards, thereby articulating the whole fabric
Several factors make Sïkrï unique. First, of the city.
its spiritual origin is the most significant. Among other things, architecture is
The humble cave of Salïm Chishtï became defined as a 'place prepared in time and
a key point in the town concept. Secondly, space for human activity'. This definition
the enormous speed of its construction can be stretched to town design as well and
helped to maintain the mood. Thirdly, the no doubt time and space are its two essential
comparatively open plan of the city because aspects besides the various human episodes
of Chishtï's influence on the king. Fourthly, and historical events that it gradually assi-
the complex and extraordinary personality milates. In this context it would be appro-
of young Akbar. Finally, its short life-span, priate at this stage to consider the 'moment'
which was responsible for the preservation and 'site' as the two coordinates of the
of its theme and character. situation: the moment being its dynamic
Few cities in the world have been built aspect, its symbolical projection in time. The
with such impulse and rapidity. The site is static, a fundamental geopolitical
whole
fabric of the city was woven around the proposition. The 'site' at Sïkrï was a barren
physical and spiritual presence of the saint rocky escarpment about 100 to 150 feet
Salïm Chishtï. Many important roads and above ground level, forming part of the
streets of Sïkrï radiating from the centre set upper Vindhyan range that extends in a
the town pattern (Figure 27). Since the south-westerly direction for about two miles.
Chishtï presence drew a large number of To the north-west of this ridge lies the wide
pilgrims from distant parts of the country and shallow valley of the Khãri river,
to the little cave, the footpaths which thusbounded on the other side by the low ranges
developed eventually became the major of the Bandrâulï hills. On this ridge, a little
roadways for the royal passage. over a mile from Akbar's town, stood an old
Most cities are works of many generations, Räjpüt citadel held by the Sïkarwâr Räjpüts
each adding its own themes and new areas, for several centuries. It was the Sïkarwârs
frequently replacing the old. Many styles can who gave the place its name Sïkrï. One can
be seen side by side in most cities, depictingstill see the last remains of their palaces on
the different stages of their growth. But the hill.4 Their town spread towards the
Sïkrï is the work of one man, in a single north and north-east of the ridge in the
phase of his life. It was built with great direction of the present Bharatpur Road.
energy while the mood lasted and completely From the twelfth to the fifteenth centuries,
abandoned soon after. It is a frozen moment Sïkrï was somewhat of a frontier station,
in history. Its modest chambers, activated
feeling the pressure exerted by the Turks and
Pathãns from the north and that of the
corridors and open terraces reflect that mood.
What comes through with startling clarity Räjpüts from the neighbouring states in the
is the active and keen mind of Akbar, hissouth. The lurking tension in the area made
immense ambitions, intellectual subtlety,it strategically important and gave it a cer-
exquisite taste, and the sense, the drama,tain of political significance. Even after Agra
royalty. Each building reveals his imaginativebecame a Lodi Capital in the beginning of
and inventive genius. The growth of the the sixteenth century, Sïkrï maintained its
town reflects the growth of Akbar' s mind, significance as a military gathering point.
whose horizons were widening even faster A quarter of a century later, Bãbur,
than the boundaries of his expanding empire. the first Mughal - Akbar's grandfather -
Akbar was discovering himself. He was defeated the last Lodi king near Delhi,
discovering the people and the country pushed on to Agrã and later encamped at
around him, and was interested in distant Sïkrï to meet the united Räjpüt forces under
parts of the world as well. the formidable leadership of Rãnã Sãngã of
In most cities of that period, palaces wereMewãr. That was an anxious moment for the
kept walled in, separated from the town byMughals. The country around Agrä was in

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NOVEMBER I975 THE MAKING OF FATEHPUR SIKRI

Figure 3. Site characteristics

open revolt. Bãbur himself at Agrã. Abundance


hasof goodrecorded5
red sandstone,
that the heat was unusually ranging from roseoppressive.
pink to deep purple, so His
soldiers longed for the cool air of Kabul. near the site must have been a boon. Stone-
Even his best generals were eager to return cutting was perhaps the oldest and largest
home. Bãbur spent three or four weeks at trade in this region. As a gesture to Salim
Sïkrï arranging his army and artillery for the Chishtï, the saintly man meditating in the
decisive battle, waiting for reinforcements to midst of wild animals, the stone-cutters of
arrive from neighbouring Bayãnã. The mood the area who came to Sïkrï for their stone,
at the camp was grim and gloomy. In a built a small mosque for his use (Figure 4).
determined speech to his dispirited officers, So this little mosque around his cave was
Bãbur made his memorable renunciation of completed some thirty years before Akbar's
wine, smashed all his cherished gold and first visit and was known as Masjid-i-
silver drinking-cups, poured wine stocks on Sahgtrãshãh (Stone-cutters' Mosque). Thus
to the ground and pledged that he would the main characteristics of the site were an
henceforth lead a life of austerity. His actions old Räjpüt citadel in the east that gave the
galvanized the troops. Each man seized the place its name; quarries in the west that
Korãn and took an oath. Then they advancedprovided abundant building material ; a river
on the opponent Räjpüt formations. The in the north that was regulated to form a
two armies clashed about ten miles west of lake; an army campsite and a battlefield
Sïkrï. Spirits were high and the charges in the vicinity that had established the
desperate. Bãbur carried the day. His most Mughals; and the hill-top abode of Salim
critical moment was overcome. With two Chishtï, whose fame had caused Akbar's
smashing victories in less than a year visit and subsequent determination to build
Mughal
supremacy in northern India was established a dream city around this red rocky ridge.
beyond doubt. Overwhelmed, Bãbur called Akbar was only thirteen years old when he
the place 'Shukrï' - the Arabic term for was hurriedly crowned in a garden on his
gratitude. way to Delhi. He was quickly coming to his
Sïkrï had still more to offer (Figure 3). Its own. Aided by his great physical strength
ridge was also known for its quarries, and and personal courage everything seemed to
its stone-cutters, who must have made their move well for him. At the age of twenty
contribution to the earlier Räjpüt citadel and Akbar abolished several taxes levied on non-
to the elaborate fortifications built by Akbar muslim subjects at the risk of displeasing

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JOURNAL OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY OF ARTS NOVEMBER 1975

Figure 4. Sketch of conjecturally restored Masjid-i- Sang


cutters' Mosque ), built thirty years before the founding

his muslim chiefs, whose support was philosophy an


essential for his stability. This enormous when he built
courage and conviction places him without for fifteen
doubt far ahead of his time. and territories had multiplied. He was
The Räjpüt threat was met in Akbar's already involved with deeper philoso
characteristic style. The nearest state of ideas. His city reflects these attitudes. T
Jaipur was first won over, by a marriage to was the moment in time, impregna
a Jaipur princess. By a series of other con- enormous energy, social zeal and inte
trivances, high offices and imperial honours, vigour in every walk of life, a time f
Mughal-Räjpüt cooperation spread from afford the freest play to his eminent qu
administration and army to the realm of art Near the fifty-year-old clock towet i
and culture. When he went to Sikri most of main bazaar of present-day Fatehpu
Rãjputãnã except Udaipur and Mewãr had to the newly constructed police station
accepted the Mughal supremacy and Sikri a tiny, elementary mosque that dem
was in a way the 'Gateway to Rãjputãnã', further historical research and closer ar
and through Rãjputãnã to fertile Gujrãt, ological scrutiny. The location and l
whose ports traded freely with Arabia. of the town suggest that his mosque
Abul Fazl observes that from a feeling of important to the Mughals, and it see
thankfulness for his constant success on the have played a significant rôle in the d
battlefields, Akbar would sit many a morning evolution of Fatehpur Sïkrï. This mo
alone in prayer. He spent much of his time is not protected by the Archaeological
with ascetics and Süfls discussing religion, of India6 and no records can as yet be

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NOVEMBER I975 THE MAKING OF FATEHPUR SIKRI

that provide adequateforms, historical information


such as emphasis on the already exist-
about it. It has not been ing road possible
between the twoso far How-
mosques.7 to
ascertain its age with ever, any theaccuracy.
situation was handled with great
It is a quiet building of aand
ingenuity domestic
imagination. Takingscalean axis
and its super-structure seems
from the to have
centric mosque been
parallel to the axis
rebuilt on an older plinth. Constructed of the ridge, and one from the Chishti
essentially with the local greyish blue mosque at right angles to it, determined the
quartzite, its corners, mihrab and door- placement of a most unusual building - a
frame have been emphasized by the use of cross- shaped cãrãvansarai. Most cãrãvan-
red sandstone. The mosque itself comprises sarais in India or elsewhere are rows of
a covered area eleven feet by twenty-three rooms and open verandahs placed around a
feet opening on to a court-yard twenty-four square or rectangular courtyard. Sometimes
feet by twenty-nine feet, enclosed by seven- they can be polygonal, adjusted to fit an
foot-high screen walls on the three sides
(Figures 5, 6 and 7). On account of the
increase in the number of visitors, perhaps,
another court-yard was added later to
accommodate larger assemblies. The outer
door altered the direction of the main
entrance, which is now from the west wall.
The open area towards the west between the
mosque and the main bazaar is still known
as Hãt Porão - it means 'Market for the
Camp', even though no market is held there
now. The word 'Parõo' brings to mind those
momentous three weeks in 1527 when
Babur's soldiers camped in the area. Could
it then be the mosque or the spot where
Bãbur made a moving appeal to his officers
and stirred them to determined action lead-
ing to glorious success ?
This mosque, we find, is the focal point
of the town (Figure 8) as its walls went up
speedily on Royal orders. The town was
named Fatehãbãd (founded for victory),
though it eventually became known as
Fatehpur (victory town). For convenience
this mosque will be referred to as 'Centric
Mosque' in this paper.
The Masjid-i-Sahgtrãshãri on the ridge, as
we know, was the other important landmark
that existed prior to the founding of the city.
This was perhaps a better-known mosque,
actively used by the Chishtï family, the local
populace, and visitors from outside. Akbar's
pilgrimage to this mosque, which was loaded
with personal associations and was the
raison d'être for the new city, must have
added a great deal to its popularity. For easy
reference we call it 'Chishtï mosque' in the
rest of this paper.
It was quite natural for the designers of
Fatehpur to utilize these two landmarks in
some manner to evolve the town plan around
them. As a first step in this direction they Figures 5, 6 and 7.
would have looked for a common denomina-
Views of the west wall from the outside (top)
tor to relate the two mosques with each and of the inner courtyard of the structure
other. This could, of course, take numerous referred to as ' Centric Mosque 9

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JOURNAL OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY OF ARTS NOVEMBER I975

Figure 8. Centric mosque - its focal position in the town


that it was important to the Mughals

irregular site. The idea theofcrossing


a cross-shaped
of the axes through them was a
sarai (inn) for visitors to novel,
the logical
twoand admirable decision
mosques at arrived
at with keen intellectual clarity (Figure 9).
This was their most creative moment. This
not only helped to bind the two mosques and
the subserviant sardi together; it generated
a comprehensible relationship between the
group and the ridge, preparing a coherent
basis for further design decisions. The
Pukhtã Sardi , as this building is called, can
be translated as an inn solidly built of
permanent materials (as opposed to mud
structures). The name only suggests that it
was among the first few public buildings
built for common use on royal orders. (The
endowment of public sarais and wells was a
common royal pietism ; the numerous
examples on his Grand Trunk Road evince
Akbar's concern in this respect.)
The Pukhtã Sardi had about 100 rooms
with attached verandahs opening on to a
thirty-foot-wide street. After the narrow
crooked lanes of present-day Fatehpur it is
a refreshing experience to find a straight,
wide street over a hundred yards long
(Figure 10). Unfortunately, the Pukhtd Sardi
lies in the populated part of the present town
and is not a protected monument. Its
individual occupants make additions and
alterations to suit their needs. Old structures

Figure 9. A cross-shaped sarai (inn) collapse now and then and new walls appear,
at the crossing of the axes through the mostly in undesirable positions. Before long
two mosques this novel structure will be changed beyond

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NOVEMBER I975 THE MAKING OF FATEHPUR SIKRÌ

Figure 10. The surviving north-east wing of Pukhtã Sa

recognition, and lost for ever. Its in


city gates three gates
the north of the ridge depended
have already disappeared during the
on the already laststreet pattern of the
existing
decade and the main gate opening earlier Sikarwãr
ontown.
to the
bãzãr (shopping street) stands sadly dis- It is interesting to note that the usage of
figured.8 Nevertheless, the relation of this nine squares in architectural plans and
building with the two mosques and the garden layouts has been an old tradition in
Jãmi Masjid that was built a little later can India with its ultimate source in ancient
be clearly seen in the aerial photograph mythology. Arabian mathematicians inte-
(Figure 11). The NE-SW wind of the sarãi grated this Indian system into their own
had to be slightly adjusted in length to relate synthesis of ancient systems.10 They utilized
it with the existing royal palaces, which were squares based on the use of numerals 1 to 9,
temporarily built parallel to the Chishti in which numerical relationships reveal
house and the contours of the ridge, prior to characteristic visual patterns (Figures 13 and
the laying of the city. 14). Throughout the history of ideas we find
The distance between the centre point of constant reference to mathematics as an
the sarãi and the centric mosque, measured aesthetic ; to the recognition of fundamental
in units of Akbar's time, is 300 Ilahi Gaz 9 orders, sequences and patterns. The square
( Ilãhi Gaz equals 30J in.). This distance formed on a nine-by-nine grid numbered
was then used as a module to fix the position i to 9 horizontally and vertically as illus-
of other major town elements and important trated, was the basis of a whole mathematical
structures (Figúre 12). The grid, based on system, which contained a numerical model
eight super- squares each comprising nine of the universe. Architecturally, the sub-
modular squares, determined the location of division of a square space into nine equal
the major city gates. The Agra gate, how- squares offers the privileged use of the
ever, was placed on the axis of the existing central space, maintaining an implicit visual
approach road from Agrã, because of the relationship with its surround.
special significance of his first visit, when One of the most outstanding, and perhaps
Akbar used that road. Further up, the inter- the first, buildings in Akbar' s time is the
section of this road with the next super-grid Garden Tomb built for his father -
determined the placement of the Naubat Humãyun, supervised by Akbar's mother -
Khãrtã Chowk) which was an open square Hameeda Begum; this is to-day an imposin
with gates in four directions and marked the structure on the river bank in present New
formal entrance to the palace precinct Delhi (Figure 15). The garden layout of
(Figure 29). The location of the other two Humayuñ's tomb11 is based on a nine-square

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JOURNAL OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY OF ARTS NOVEMBER I975

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NOVEMBER I975 THE MAKING OF FATEHPUR SIKRI

Figure 12. Town layout based on a modu

Figure 13. Space sub-division on a


Figure 14. Numerical orde
nine-square basis visual patterns

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JOURNAL OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY OF ARTS NOVEMBER I975

concept in which the central square is the


platform on which the mausoleum stands. A
later example of a new town that based its
town layout on the nine- square arrangement
is the eighteenth-century Räjpüt city of
Jaipur. The Rãjãs of Amber were in close
contact with the Mughal court because of
marriage alliances, and there was a constant
cultural exchange that reveals itself in many
Mughal and Räjpüt practices. Nevertheless,
when Rãjã Jai Singh decided to build his new
city he leaned heavily on the scriptures for
its layout and extent (Figure 16).
Even though the nine-square grid has
formed the basis for the town plans for both Figure 16. Town plan of Jaipur -
Fatehpur SikrI and Jaipur, unlike Jaipur, a designed city
Sikri does not have a grid plan. While it uses
the grid for siting most of its important land-
marks, its street system does not adhere to a Like Fatehpur Sikri, it was also based on
grid pattern and its palaces are influenced byeight super-squares, each comprising of nine
a variety of other factors, including the modular squares. The module used in
Mecca orientation of the Mosque and the Shãhjahãnãbãd, surprisingly, corresponds to
topography of the ridge. Sikri seems to growthe one used at" Sikri, which we know was
from the site, its surroundings and the obtained in the latter case from the relative
sentiments associated with it. Jaipur on the location of its two already existing mosques.
other hand is a pre-conceived plan pattern Sited at the bend of the river, the four
transferred on to the site rather superficially. corners of Shãhjahãnãbãd were cut along
Another capital city which provides an the diagonals of the corner squares. The
interesting comparison is Shãhjahãnãbãd or super-grid was used to adjust the directions
Old Delhi, built by Akbar's grandson, of the rest of the city walls more or less
Shãhjahãn, seventy years after the founding symmetrically in both directions, forming a
of Fatehpur Sikri. Shãhjahãnãbãd was graceful boat-shape. In both cities the walls
designed as a city of the same size as are about five miles long. The location of
Fatehpur Sikri and a similar design approach most of the city gates is determined by the
shows that it was influenced by the earlier super-grid. The citadel has been placed in
concept (Figure 17). more or less similar positions in both cases
and is approximately one-tenth of the city
area. In both cases the palace buildings
were placed in cardinal directions, parallel to
the mosque and inclined at 45 o to the direc-
tion of the town grid.
Unlike Fatehpur Sikri, Shâhjahân's citadel
again became a separate entity, separated
from the town by high walls and moats.
Chãndni Chowk Bãzãr and Faiz Bãzãr were,
however, well related with the palace
complex, till Aurangzeb decided to alter the
axial approach. The Jãmi Masjid, another
main feature of the city, was sited outside
the citadel walls on a hill site reserved for
this purpose. Splendour was the mood at
Shãhjahãnãbãd, and the city Was designed
for formal state processions. Hence the
location of Jãmi Masjid away from the
citadel placed symmetrically between the
two bãzãrs, was just right and appropriate.
Figure 15. Modular basis of Humäyütf s But at Fatehpur Sikri the overriding emotion
tomb and its garden layout was thanksgiving, and the spirit of humility

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NOVEMBER I975 THE MAKING OF FATEHPUR SIKRI

and informality prevailed. the Chishti tombThe


that was built
Jãmi there some
Masjid
at SikrI, again the largest years later and creates a sense
single of enclosure in
building
the city, was the royal gift
and intimacy to
in spite the
of the Shaikh
large dimensions
family. The modular square next to the of the courtyard. The long northern wall
Chishti mosque was used to fix its precise almost turns its back on the royal recreational
position. area sealing it from the town (Figure 20).
The mosque was located in a key position The geometry of strings helped to define
between the Chishti household on its left the overall dimensions of this mosque, and
and the royal residence on the right and a
enabled the designers to relate it mathe-
large part of town in front of it downmatically
the with the Pukhtã Sardi as well; in
slopes of the hill (Figure 18). The Bãdshãhia very subtle manner it added to the cohesion
(King's) Gate, built on a modest scale, of the group of buildings (Figure 21). It was
approaches the open courtyard from the a simple geometrical exercise that offered
east. The west wall, usually the rear wall in
important practical advantages. It was also
most mosques, in this case is intimately the beginning of a mathematical relationship
related to the Chishti household. It almost that originated a concise proportion system
forms a part of it. The Buland Darwãzã that (The provides the key to most of the palace
Lofty Gateway) in the south, set up after designs.
forty steps, establishes a communication with The super-square between the Jãmi
the town and the people. The north wallMasjidhad and Naubat Khãnã Chowk was the
no opening. It just provides a backdropsite to chosen for the imperial household, its

Figure 17. The town plan of Shãhjahãnãbãd ( Old Delhi ) was


influenced by the earlier concept of Fatehpur Sïkri

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JOURNAL OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY OF ARTS NOVEMBER 1975

Figure 18. Location of Jãmi Masjid and Imperial househ


Sikri ridge determined

Figure 19. The geometrical location of the Seat of Thr


( Aurang Chhatf)

Figure 20. View of Jãmi Masjid and palace complex

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NOVEMBER I975 THE MAKING OF FATEHPUR SIKRI

Figure 21. ТЫ geometry of strings relates the overall dimension


of the Pukhtã Sardi with those of the J ami Masjid

centre considered auspicious (Superintendent for the seat of of


Encampment). Regu-
the royal throne - called Aurang lations controlled
Chhatr. the location of all Kork -
The Diwãn-i-Am (Court of Public hãnajãtAudience)
(services) for the imperial household,
was built about the throne seat, andwhich
their distances
is an were carefully fixed for
elevated platform, accessible maximum from the convenience
rest- and order. These
chamber and private garden royal frompreferences
the rear were based on practical
(Figure 19). The space between and thetraditional
Diwãn- reasons, and are geograph-
i-Am and the mosque was then ically defined
available forin Nakshã-i-Ãin-i- Manzil
exclusive audiences, personal (sketch palacesof andCampthe Order), in the Äin-i-Akbari
harem. (Law and Regulation at Akbar's Court), as
The space requirements and graphic illustrated (Figure 22). This was the Mughal
delineation of the royal areas were closely Camp Order that was slightly modified each
defined by the Mughals for expediting thetime as necessary to suit the terrain and
set up of the royal camp. The Mughal court topography. This Camp Order provided a
was frequently on the move. On the average,precise design brief for the new royal
Akbar spent more than four months in a year residence at Fatehpur Slkri.13
travelling, on hunting expeditions, suppress- Depicted in the Nakshã-i-Ãin-i- Manzil
ing provincial rebellions, extending the are four central enclosures meant for royal
frontiers of his empire or visiting holy shrines use. In the first enclosure the King would
in gratitude for his success on the battle- meet the people, soldiers and commoners,
fields. On most of these expeditions he while only privileged noblemen, high officials
would be accompanied by state departments,and intimate friends would find access to the
treasury, princesses with their attendant second enclosure. A two-storied central tent
maids, and noblemen with their retinues. was used in this enclosure to issue the state
Besides, the soldiers on horseback and road- orders and receive intelligence reports. The
building gangs would form a considerable third enclosure housed the King's day
part of this vast moving city.12 Each parãopalace and bed-chamber, where he could
(halt) in a new region was an exercise in rest or retire, and the fourth enclosure,
town-planning. The sites were carefully which was strictly guarded, was for the royal
chosen in advance by the Mir Manzil women.

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JOURNAL OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY OF ARTS NOVEMBER 197$

The four enclosures were thus like


beautifully arranged
pieces of a jigsaw puzzle
axially in a series in order of increasing
accommodating the imperial household
privacy and security (Figure
(Figure23). All
24). This the
spatial setting based on an
services, workshops and stores for the
inter-locking palace
axial system creates an ordered
were placed around the central core and composition inducing a relaxed mood and
were accessible from an outer road.14 The pleasure of movement, so perceptively
day guards and night guards would form analysed by Jacqueline Tyrwhitt.15 The
another outer ring, protecting the royal changing levels of various courts based on
enclosures and their services. More space the slope of the ridge was used imaginatively
was reserved at the back to accommodate to control the flow of running water. Finally
female attendants and maids for the it royal
would collect in the huge reservoir,
occupants. This overall arrangement must ninety feet by ninety feet, and thirty feet
have formed the basis for the planning of deep.
theBreeze-catching pavilions were built
palace precinct. There were, of course, on its wide retaining walls, enjoying a
several other site conditions to reckon with. panaromic view of the lake. The movement
The ridge was narrow for the usual space about these courtyards is a feast for the
requirements of the royal enclosure in asenses and heightens that sense of participa-
camp. It commanded an excellent view of tion in a great drama of life (Figure 25).
the lake in the north-east that was artificially The narrowness of the ridge at certain
created for the purpose (it brings to mind places led to the extension of some of the
a similar situation successfully met in terraces and platforms beyond its edge,
Chandigarh in our own times) and it was making it necessary to build supporting
all happening against the backdrop of the structures under them. The situation led to
great J ami Masjid. several functional as well as aesthetic
The palace courts were laid out parallel to advantages (Figure 26). The supporting
the mosque, and the four enclosures fitted structures were ideally suited for the

Figure 22. Nakshä-i-Äin-i-Manzil ( Sketch Figure 23. The four royal enclosures were
of Camp Order ) in the Court chronicle arranged axially in order of increasing privacy
6 Ain-i-Akbari 9 and security . Service areas and security
guards formed outer rings

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NOVEMBER I975 THE MAKING OF FATEHPUR SIKRI

kãrkhãnãjãt (the service workshops and


production centres) that sometimes fitted
below the palaces. Getting their supplies of
raw material from the street level, and after
processing delivering them at the top level
for consumption, seems like an efficient
arrangement based on economy of move-
ment. Besides, it lent itself to quick and
regular royal supervision - an essential part
of Akbar's daily routine. It was particularly
important for the extensive kitchen depart-
ment to be reasonably near. Working on a
perfection scale all the buildings for the
royal use were placed carefully parallel to the
Jãmi Masjid , while service buildings, for
reasons of economy, were placed along the
contours of the ridge. The combination
produced many unusual, irregular open
areas around the palaces which were linked
together by gateways to provide access to the
Diwãn-i-Ãm and Mahal-i-Khãs (the Royal
Residence). The space volumes obtained in
this manner are very contemporary in spirit.
It reminds one of Louis Kahn' s way of look-
ing at the streets as a series of open rooms.
The Utopian images of the two most

Figure 24. (Below, left ) Royal areas in dressed red sandstone were laid out parallel to the mosque ,
while service areas in grey quartzite followed the contours
Figure 25. (Above, right) Terrace plan showing the relationship of interconnected courts
Figure 26. (Below, right) All factors synthethized into a space-setting offering visual drama and
frequent change of scene

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JOURNAL OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY OF ARTS NOVEMBER 1975

Figure 27. Chishtï mosque serving as a movement focus


influenced the street layout

Figure 28. The Centric Mosque provided visual focus guidin


placement of several buildings personally important to Akba

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NOVEMBER 1975 THE MAKING OF FATEHPUR SIKRI

Figure 29. NaubatKhãnã


Chowk ( conjecturally
restored) with its four
gateways , marks the
beginning of the royal area

Figure 30. View of this


novel structure , called
Diwan-i-Khãs (with most
unusual interior space),
from Akbar'sKhwäbgäh ( Bed
chamber). (Photograph by
courtesy of the Department
of Archaeology , Government
of India)

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JOURNAL OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY OF ARTS NOVEMBER 1975

creative designers of the entries century,to the palace


Wrightcomplex. This divided
and Corbusier, both negate thethe
area into
street
privileged
in monuments
its inside,
usual form. and the street system with its service areas,
The feel of the site, open vista and openguards' rooms, stables and water tanks as
character of the citadel, its diagonal place-outside areas. This unnatural separation of
ment to the ridge, wide ramps and high gate-the monuments has proved most unfortunate
ways for elephant movement (Akbar had in many ways. First of all, it deprives visitors
no elephants for personal use), along with of the opportunity of fully experiencing the
Akbar's temperament, contributed to the palaces by using different gates for entering
dramatic character of most of the palace or leaving them. It obscures the function of
approaches from the north-east of the ridge many inside areas, e.g. the Purdah Passage,
(Figure 31). The gates and enclosures on the where continuity was an important con-
other side disappeared, being closer to the sideration. The open character of the city,
town. The inter-linked courts with grand which was its chief characteristic, has been
ramps and controlled vistas provide a space completely destroyed. Since one has to go a
setting in which every rise in level offers a long distance around the walls to visit out-
surprise and a complete change of scene. side areas, most tourists cannot visit them in
Unfortunately these approaches are an im- a short stay. Since these are not visited much
possible experience now as their connections now, even the site engineers and mainte-
with the palaces have been completely nance men have lost their interest in them.
severed during recent years.16 It did not take the town long to encroach on
The government's decision, about eight these areas: new structures have been put
years ago, to collect entrance money from up, new roads made for individual use, and
the tourists visiting the monuments has led free use made of stones that were lying
to a system of entry control which, it seems,scattered around. These happenings could
made it necessary for the Archaeological not be checked by the Survey very effectively ;
Survey to close most of the palace gates and its own labour gangs quite carelessly dug up

Figure 31. Hãthi Põl (. Elephant Gate) approach to the palaces and the J ami Masjid.
( Photograph by courtesy of the Department of Archaeology , Government of India)

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NOVEMBER I975 THE MAKING OF FATEHPUR SÍKRI

Figure 32. Sketch of Sikrï ridge from Bharatpur Road sho


two important approaches to the monuments

ruins of the Jauhri Bãzãr to widen the officials on their routine visits to the monu-
existing road and to build a bigger car park. ments. These roads cutting through the
In this context the last decade was mostly preserved courtyards must be discontinued
the unmaking of Fatehpur Sïkrï. Mention and a circulatory road built instead which
of deteriorating monuments at Sïkrï did approaches the monuments from several
seem to disturb many in the government, directions without disfiguring them, and
but unfortunately we are still losing without causing inconvenience to the
Fatehpur Sïkrï very fast every year. pedestrian experience.
Many beautiful monuments located near With greater thought and careful survey
the city walls are never visited by tourists it should be possible, without interfering
because of their inaccessibility. The roadwith the life of the town, to introduce a road
system is totally inadequate. Some of thesystem which would cover a much larger
gates in the city walls present a panoramic area and bring all the scattered monuments
view of the palaces from advantageous within the reach of the tourists. The implicit
angles, but they are so inaccessible by car visual energies of the town need to be
that very few people can get up there. From augmented by a movement pattern based on
Gwãlior Gate in the south-east, one gets a a sympathetic perception of the monuments,
grand view of the imposing Buland Darwãzã , their functions and the sensitivity of their
dominating the whole countryside. The placement. Carefully handled, Fatehpur
stepped up city wall across the hill in the Sïkrï can assume an entirely new dimension
distance looks very sculpturesque from this by enabling visitors to experience Akbar's
point. Nearby is Tõdar Mai's17 octagonal dream city objectively as a meaningful
pavilion, which once stood in an extensive sequence.
garden. Not far from here, outside the The first step in this direction is to check
Terha Gate, is Bahâu-ud-Dïn's Tomb. the disruptive forces at all levels that are
Bahäu-ud-Din was the Superintendent causing of the present unmaking of this unique
Works, responsible for the construction of
historical heritage and to stop all arbitrary
the city. This pleasant little tomb lies decisions that are eroding the very principles
neglected, unkown and unvisited. of this magnificent townplan. That is the
The best view of the ridge and the royalvery least that we can do towards the making
palaces can be obtained from the Bharatpurof Fatehpur Sïkrï.
Road (Figure 32). The long lines of palaces
with their domes and pinnacles can be seen ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

from a distance of several miles as you driveI am indebted to Mr. Din Dayal Parashar,
towards the city. An approach road from thisMunicipal Commissioner, Fatehpur Sïkrï,
side could lead the visitors either straight tofor showing me around some of the old parts
the Diwãn-i-Am or to the Hãthi Põl of present Fatehpur town. His brother, Mr.
(Elephant Gate) entrance on the other Murari side. Lai Parashar, very kindly enabled
Both these entries are a rewarding experi- me to examine several old documents and
ence, and need to be developed with due drawings in the family possession. Special
care and consideration. The complete road thanks are due to Mr. Krishna Ailawadi for
system at Fatehpur Sikri needs to be re- his help in the preparation of graphic
viewed afresh, considering the ever-increas- material, and to Miss Anne Upsom for
ing tourist trade and what the city has to secretarial assistance. I am especially grateful
offer. The present roads (laid over sixty to Mr. John Burton-Page and Mr. Anthony
years ago) were meant to carry only a few Mascarenhas for the critical reading of the

801

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JOURNAL OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY OF ARTS NOVEMBER I975

manuscript and their valuable formerly a group of states


comments andincluding Jodhpur,
suggestions. Bikãnêr, Jaipur, Udaipur, etc. ; now Rãjasthãn.
It would be appropriate to acknowledge Sarãi A rest house for the caravans along the
main trade routes, built frequently by various
here that the basic theme of this paper was
kings.
first presented at Fatehpur Sïkrï in Decem- Shãhjahãnãbãd Present Old Delhi ; new capital
ber 1972, in a Seminar sponsored by the built by Shähjahän when he moved from
Department of Archaeology, Government of Ägrä to Delhi.
India, to celebrate the 400th anniversary of Shaikh A Muslim saint or scholar.
the founding of Akbar's Fatehpur. I am Sikri Abode of Sikarwãrs.
grateful to the Department for making thisSikarwãr A Räjpüt tribe.
participation possible and for extending Sufi A Muslim mystic; a dervish.
other courtesies from time to time, which NOTES

have greatly helped in further investigations. i. Vincent A. Smith, Akbar the Great Mogul 1542-
New Delhi, 1962, pp. 77. 'Agra and Fatepore are t
very great cities, either of them much greater
London and very populous. Between Agr
Fatepore ... all the way is a market of victua
GLOSSARY many other things, as full as though a man wer
in a towne, and so many people as if a man were
market.' Description by Ralph Fitch, September
Äin-i-Akbari 'Law and Regulations 2. TheatCambridge
Akbar's History of India , Vol. IV, New D
Court', compiled by his Court Chronicler and 'No sooner was the idea formed
1963» pp. 538-9.
close associate Abul Fazal. plans were prepared, artizans summoned from all
parts of his dominion, and the work pushed on with
Aurang Chhatr The royal throne with its such lightning rapidity that not only its splendour
but the almost magical speed with which it was
overhead ornamental pavilion. completed was a matter of contemporary comment.'
Bãdshãhi King's; royal. 3. B. D. Sanwal, Agra and its Monuments , 1968, pp. 46.
For details of the Chishti household see my article,
Buland Darwãzã Lofty gateway built in the 'Can Fatehpur Sikri Still be Saved?', Design incor-
south wall of Jãmi Masjid at Fatehpur Sikri. porating Indian Builder , April 1972, pp. 19-24.
Chishti The Chishti dervish order (silsilã) was 4. The Sikarwãr Citadel on tne adjoining hill north-east
of Fatehpur has been completelv chiselled down by
introduced into India by Khwãjã Muin al-Din a large number of stone-cutters working on it for the
last seven years. Its last remnants are two Bãolis
Chishti of Ajmer (1141-1236) and rapidly (stepped wells) which still exist in a rather dilapidated
established a reputation for sanctity. condition in the north-west and south-east of this
Diwãn-i-Am Court of public audience. hill. These seem to be part of the water supply
svstem which once served this citadel.
Diwãn-i-Khãs Hall of private audience. 5. Stanley Lane-Poole, Babar , New Delhi, 1964» Р- 169.
Hammãm Baths. 6. Recently the courtyard walls of this mosque have
been used for the extension of a neighbouring flour
Hãt Parão Market for the camp. mill. Left unchecked, this encroachment would soon
endanger the existence of this structure.
Hãthi Pol Elephant Gate. 7. Parts of this road can be seen in the old revenue maps
Ilãhi Gaz A unit of measurement of Akbar's of Fatehmir Sikri.
time. 8. A well in the north-east of this gate was covered and
concreted some years ago to make room for the new
Jãmi Masjid Principal mosque for large municipal offices built there. This well fulfilled the
assemblies - especially on Fridays. needs of the occupants of this Sarãi and also supplied
the great public Hammãm situated between this gate
Kãrkhãnãjãt Plural of kãrkhãnã ; meaning and the Buland Darwãzã.
workplace. Service areas and production 9. Dr. Chagtäi, basing his calculation on the discovery
of a manuscript which gives measurements of the Tãj
centres.
in gaz, defines 1 gaz as equal to 0.79 metres, i.e.
31.3 inches.
Khwãbgãh Bed chamber.
10. Keith Albarn, Jenny Miall Smith, Stanford Steele,
Lodi An Afghan tribe. Dinah Walker, The Language of Pattern, London,
Mahal-i-Khãs The Emperor's private apart-
1974, PP. 10-12.
1 1 . Minutely observing Mughal miniatures, Ellen Sm
ments.
presents an illustration from Waqiãt-i-Bãburi
(painted in Akbar's time) showing Bãbur and his
Masjid-i-Sangtrãshãn Stone-cutters' mosque.
architect discussing the plan of Bãgh-i-Wafã. Bãbur
Mir Manzil The Superintendent of Encamp-
is pointing with his right hand at the plan and three
meiit. of the gardeners stretch a rope to check the position
of the waterway. Miss Smart convincingly shows in
Nakshä-i-Äin-i- Manzil Sketch of Camp Order
an enlarged detail that this plan has lines drawn to
form a grid.
as described in Äin-i-Akbari by Abul Fazal.
See E.S. Smart, ' Graphic Evidence for Mughal Archi-
Naubat Khãnã Chowk City square with music
tectural Plans', AARP (Art and Archaeological
Research Paoersi. 6. London. IQ7¿. DD. 22-Ч.
gallery to announce royal arrivals and
12. William Irvine, The Army of Indian Moghuls , pp.
departures and other important hours. 109-10.

Parão Halt; stay; army camp or royal camp. 13. Abul Fazal Allãmi, Ain-i-Akbari, trans. H. Bloch-
mann. Delhi, iq6s, Plate IV and dd. 49-so.
Pathãn A people inhabiting the hilly country
14. For a detailed account of service areas, see my
to the north-west of Lahore; a soldier; a article, 'Imperial Workshop at Fatehpur Sikri - The
Rovai Kitchen', AARP s, dd. 28-41.
warrior; the Afghan race. 15. J. Tyrwhitt, 'The Moving Eye' in Explorations in
Pukhtã Strong ; permanent ; (a structure) made Communications , Boston, i960, p. 90.
16. See my article, 'Do India's Archaeologists Know
of baked brick or stone. what They Are Doing at Fatehpur Sikri?', Design
Rãjã A Hindu equivalent to a king. incorporating Indian Builder , New Delhi, March
1972, pp. 23-30.
Räjpüt Member of Hindu land-owning warrior
17. Todar Mai, who was an assistant Vakil, became
caste of north-west India. Prime Minister of the Empire in 1582 and prepared
a scheme for the improvement of the revenue
Rãjputãnã The country of the Räjpüts; administration.

802

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NOVEMBER I975 THE MAKING OF FÀTEHPUR SIKŘI

DISCUSSION

The Chairman: I thought I knew a little on trade routes and only twenty miles away. The
about Fatehpur Sikri, having visited it a numbertrade and crafts soon followed to Ãgrã as well.
of times, but Mr. Davar has shown me how I do not accept the view put forward by some
relatively little I do know and what an enormous historians that the city was abandoned for ever
amount there is still to know. I can hardly wait because of an unexpected shortage of water.
to go back there, and look again with the insights Mr. Reginald Massey: Is it known whom
he has given us this evening. the architects employed were ? Were they
Mr. Oscar Davies: Why was the city Indians ? Were they Hindus, or Muslims from
abandoned after fifteen years ? Iran ? Also, is there any indication of the size of
The Lecturer: It seems that there were the labour force employed ?
The Lecturer: There is no definite informa-
several personal, political and cultural factors
which must have contributed towards this. In tion about the architects employed. Kãsim Khãn
was Akbar's chief engineer for building the fort
the first instance, the very circumstances that
at Ãgrã and is mentioned here and there in other
led to this speedy undertaking lost their validity
over the years. The new city was a way of contexts. There is a small tomb at Sikri outside
celebrating the birth of Prince Salim. It was a the town wall - between the palaces and the
way of acknowledging the divine blessing and quarries. It is called Bahäu-ud-Din's Tomb.
the good luck that the place had brought. This Bahãu-ud-Din is traditionally believed to be
initial fondness for the place must have even- Superintendent of Works, perhaps responsible
tually become a sore point for Akbar, who at afor the mosque and palace complex. As the
later stage became seriously concerned about thecitadel arose with great speed, a large number of
habit and attitude of the young prince. In thismaster builders and craftsmen from all over the
growing antagonism, the king must be resent- country contributed here. Many provincial styles
fully aware of the natural sympathy and unex- can be seen at Sikri side by side, and prominent
pressed loyalty of Chishti household for Prince among these is that of Gujarãt. It has not been
Salim, who had grown up with Chishti grand- estimated, so far, how many people were em-
sons from early childhood. This is just one ployed for the job.
aspect. Shaikh Chishti, whose presence initially Mrs. Marjorie Gallop: Did the aban-
inspired the project, died soon after. donment of the city seem a very dramatic event
After a decade at Sikri, Akbar was passing at the time ? Did it have any impact on literature,
through the most critical period of his reign. were there lamentations for the abandonment,
His involvement in the famous religious debates or was it more or less written off?
at Sikri eventually led him, step by step, to
The Lecturer: It is a very fascinating
assume all powers of a religious head. Then he
question. There are references to the aban-
introduced a new religion, which in spite of
doned city in some travelogues, but I have not
subtle pressures, was not accepted by most of
come across, so far, any lamentation or personal
his close associates. This must have resulted in
sorrow expressed in the poetry or prose of the
a deep sense of personal defeat at that moment,
time.
in spite of compensations provided by success in
Mr. Derick Garnier: Whether or not one
other areas. Intelligence reports about a planned
rebellion at this time must have caused some believes that there was a shortage or failure of
uneasiness. There was trouble in Bengál on water
one at Sikri, there certainly was a very exten-
end, and his cousin Mirza Hakim in Kãbul on sive system of plumbing. Would Mr. Davar like
the other end, had ambitious plans to take to say something about tfie water system, its
advantage of the situation. An army march to creation and preservation ?
Kãbul kept Akbar away from Sikri for about a The Lecturer: There was indeed a very
year. Around this time, severe floods in Sikri elaborate water supply system for the palaces and
caused havoc, disrupting many services. The most of it is in an excellent state of preservation.
fact that these services were never fully restored As the city was built, a large lake was created in
suggests that Akbar was already disillusioned the north-west, which must have helped in soil
with this place. Later, suspected danger from saturation, as a large number of wells were built
Bädäkashän made it necessary for him to stay by the people. Two large reservoirs were built
on in Lahore, which was also more suitable for near the palaces on the two sides of the ridge.
extending the empire northwards and west- Persian wheel system was used to pull water to
wards. In history it is not at all uncommon for the palace level in three stages. The flow would
kings to shift capitals to new geographical then be directed through garden canals, tanks,
centres close to areas of activity. In the case of decorative channels, fountains, etc., using the
Sikri, however, since it was a young city, this natural slope of the hill and the varying levels of
withdrawal of Royal presence as well as patron- palace courts to collect all the water in the two
age so soon after its conception caused public reservoirs. The paved terraces also served a
abandonment as well. Noblemen generally pre- catchment areas and not a drop of water was
ferred Âgrã, a much larger city, naturally grown wasted. Both hot water and cold water systems

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JOURNAL OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY OF ARTS NOVEMBER I975

were in use in all public and with royal baths.


a square centralA net- again reached by
platform
work of water channels served the town and its
four bridges. He was certainly influenced by the
gardens. But then, of course, all towns in bridge
hot concept, whether it is the transitional
and dry climates depend on nature and on rains
quality of the bridge or the space experience it
to some extent. offers. May be it was the act of bridging itself :
The Chairman: Is it known whether the the bridging of the people, the bridging of the
abandonment of the city happened to languages
follow anda literature and the bridging of the
number of years when there was a bad religions
mon- that he attempted in a big way. Akbar
soon ? Is there a record of the years was whenan orthodox Muslim when he came to
the
monsoon was good ? Sikri. Eventually he started experimenting with
practices
The Lecturer: If does not seem likely that from other religions as well. Din-i-
Ilãhi by
the abandonment of the city was caused or the Divine Religion started by him was
based
failure of monsoons. On the other hand, on many practices adapted from other
several
contemporary references mention the religions.
floods His drinking of Ganges water could
be attributed to this.
caused by the outburst of the lake dam a little
before its abandonment. These floods, caused
The Chairman: One notices in the plans of
possibly by heavy monsoons, damaged manySikri how very wide is the extent of
Fatehpur
services at the foot of the ridge. It could not
the walls round the palace area. Was the city at
have been very difficult for Akbar to onerestore
time completely built up to those walls, or
these areas to their normal functioning, but itinside the walls, fields and farms and
were there,
seems he was fast losing interest in cultivated
this placeareas ?
because of various stresses mentioned earlier.
The Lecturer: It was customary in Mughal
Mr. Robert Shaw: May I ask Mr. Davar if cities to plan large gardens within the city walls,
he could place the building of Fatehpur Sikri in as well as outside. Shähjahän's Delhi, which had
relation to the Forts at Ãgrã and at Delhi. Which a number of similarities with Fatehpur Sikri,
came first? They were also built by Akbar, I gives a fair idea of land use distribution at that
think. time. About one-tenth of the walled area in
TheLecturer: The fort at Ãgrã comes first. Delhi along Chãndni Chowk bãzãr was planned
It was more or less near completion when the as gardens. At Sikri, most of the area between
building of the Jami mosque and the palace was the ridge and the lake in the north-west was
started at Sikri. After twelve or thirteen years, recreational. Many private gardens existed
Akbar started building another fort at Allãhãbãd, within the city walls in the south-east. At the
but that project was not pressed with speed, and same time, site evidence suggests that the built
was later abandoned in favour of Lahore fort.
up area extended beyond the city gate, called
The fort at Delhi was built by Akbar's grand-
Birbal Pol, in the east and there was population
son, Shãhjahãn, about seventy years after in
Sikri.
the north beyond Delhi gate. This now forms
part of the present village called Nãgar.
Mr. Massey: I am interested in the inscription
on the main gate which apparently comes from
The Chairman: So the walls marked the
the New Testament. Could Mr. Davar tell us defended area and not the inhabited area ?
which quotation it is ? I was also interested to
The Lecturer: No, the population did
hear that Akbar, as a born Muslim, should have
spread
insisted on drinking pure water from the holybeyond the walls. It was even mandatory
Ganges ! for certain sections of the community to live
outside the town limits.
The Lecturer: I am not very familiar with
the New Testament, but the inscription on The Chairman: The wall was really mili-
Buland Darwãzã that you mention is to the tary ?
effect that the World is a bridge; pass over it but The Lecturer: In this case, it was more a
do not build on it. It is interesting that Akbar question of defining the boundary or some kind
had this quotation inscribed on the tallest build-of administrative area. The city walls were not
ing at Fatehpur Sikri, which was a gateway. The very strong and the palace area again was not
concept of the World as a bridge appealed to enclosed by high walls. It would seem that the
Akbar's mind. This should help us in our under- military aspect was not considered important,
standing of his complex mental make-up. His and a much stronger fort at Ãgrã was quite near.
most original and novel building at Fatehpur
Sikri, called Diwãn-i-Khãs, consists of four
Mr. G. V. Charles, friba: Is it possible
that the town can be declared a national monu-
bridges springing from the four internal corners
ment to save it from the spoliation taking place ?
leading to a central platform, where Akbar sat
up in space and perhaps meditated. On the other The Lecturer: Considering the complexity
end of the courtyard, in his rest chamber, heof the situation, the extent of the damage already
rested on a high platform on four columns done and the great potential of the place, this is
reached by a bridge across the sunken floor, the most desirable thing to do. The situation is
which was filled with water for coolness. Outside complex because there are many agencies in-
in the enclosed court is a decorative water tank volved. Some of the important palaces round

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NOVEMBER I975 THE MAKING OF FATEHPUR SIKRI

Chishti mosque belong to the the


first stage, and then
Chishti added areasIts
family. can be made
present occupants are not in better
to bring a position
returns. to main-
tain these areas, so they rent them out or sell
Dr. N. S. Junankar: The construction of
them off when necessary. Similarly some struc-
Fatehpur Sikri during a very short period must
tures are under municipal jurisdiction. Some
have required tremendous organization of
legislation will be necessary before the town can
labour. Did Akbar set up any special machinery
be declared a national monument. This, how-
for the construction of the city ?
ever, should be possible if the respective govern-
ment departments feel strongly concerned
The Lecturer: This about
is an aspect which is
the situation.
really remarkable and was very well taken up by
Mr. Charles: Is there any movement to Akbar. Every type of building material - stones,
bricks and woods - were classified and their
educate public opinion to persuade the govern-
ment to take the necessary measures ? prices fixed. Different types of jobs were defined
The Lecturer: There is no organized and wages determined. The weights, the
movement as such. A few articles did appear measures,
in the specifications, the way to mix the
various national newspapers a few years mortar
ago. and plaster and so on, were all recorded
Design Magazine from New Delhi did a great carefully. By personal supervision and keen
deal to persuade the government to take interest
the the king had accumulated enormous
information on building techniques. When work
necessary measures before it is too late. Several
proposals were made to the Archaeological on Lãhore and Âgrã had hardly finished, he
Department. Unfortunately there is no organi-decided to build a whole large city again. He was
zation or professional body which was com- an absolutely passionate builder and had care-
mitted to work consistently in this direction. fully worked out every detail connected with his
building department.
The Chairman: Isn't it to some extent the
result of a shortage of money available inThe India
Chairman: I am afraid that we have to
for the conservation of historic monuments ? draw the meeting to a close, and I am glad that
The Lecturer: Generally speaking this is we end it with Akbar as a passionate builder
rather than on the rather depressing subject of
quite true. And of course any proposals for con-
servation have to be considered within the the deterioration of the fabric. I hardly need say
limitations of the budget. However, my how fascinating
chief Mr. Davar's lecture has been,
concern in this matter are the wrong because the questions asked are the best evidence
priorities
of the interest that his talk has aroused. I am
and damaging methods that seem to ignore the
historical basis and the design qualitiessurein
many
the of us will look forward to the oppor-
larger sense. Also, looking around the tunity
ruinsofI going back to Fatehpur Sikri. If any of
am convinced that in many areas lots of us succeed
results in doing so in the next few years and
find people
can be obtained at comparatively very little cost. poking around outside the conven-
As an example, in many areas near the tional tourist area, I think we will know where
palaces
some were
if all the loose stones lying about scattered of them got the incentive! I thank Mr.
Davar for
picked up and stacked on the visible plinths, the a splendid lecture.
plan arrangements would become much more
intelligible and interesting for visitorsThe
to look
meeting concluded with the usual acclama-
around. Many other ways can be suggested as Lecturer and Chairman .
tion of the

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