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Davar MAKINGFATEHPURSKR 1975
Davar MAKINGFATEHPURSKR 1975
Davar MAKINGFATEHPURSKR 1975
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The Chairman: Our speaker this evening is architect, a planner and a historian, and when
Mr. Satish K. Davar, who is going to talk about the book he is preparing on the city is published
the remarkable story of Fatehpur Sikri, which we shall know a great deal more about how the
was built by that great patron of the arts, the city was designed and built. He is going to tell
Mughal Emperor Akbar, in the latter part of the us this evening about the progress of his re-
sixteenth century. It was only occupied as the searches at Fatehpur Sikri and the conclusions
administrative capital of Akbar's empire for that he has drawn from them.
fifteen years, after which it was deserted ; and it This series of annual lectures was founded as
has remained deserted ever since, that is for far back as 1920 in memory of Sir George
nearly four centuries. The central parts of the Birdwood, who lived from 1830 to 19 17. He was
city, however, are still in a wonderful state of a great authority on Indian art and design, was
preservation which has made Fatehpur Sikri one a voluminous writer, a scholar and an enthusi-
of the most admired architectural monuments in ast. He was also a Member of the Council of this
India. It is visited by thousands of people bothSociety for over twenty years and did much to
for its beauty and for its fascinating combination
bring the arts of India within its purview. Past
of Mughal, Räjpüt and Persian styles of architec-
Birdwood Lectures have dealt with a fascinating
ture. I emphasize that it is the central partsrange
of of Indian subjects. I have been told only
the city that are so remarkably preserved. These
this evening, incidentally, that the Chairman at
are what the visitors explore. But within the the first Birdwood Lecture was none other than
enclosing walls there are acres more that are still
Lord Curzon, which makes me very proud to be
in ruins or of which traces only remain, andsitting
it in the same place! I am sure Mr. Satish
has been Mr. Satish Davar's task during the past
Davar will give a lecture that Birdwood himself
six years or more to investigate and identify would have valued.
these less known parts of the city. He is an
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Fitch1 - one of the British merchants at resources, it readily assimilated the personal
and emotional responses of its founder.
Akbar's court - was among the largest cities
of the world at that time. Here, as we know, Having lost a few children in infancy, an
were concentrated the arts of India in a anxious Akbar visited several shrines and
cosmopolitan setting under one of the holy men where he offered prayers and
great-
est and most humane brains in Indian sought blessings for the birth of an heir and
history. A palace citadel was built and a successor to the throne. Amongst the Muslim
metropolitan city planned in less than a divines of that time was Salim Chishtl,3 who
decade. The speed of construction, men- had recently returned to his unassuming
tioned in several contemporary accounts, hermitage on the Sïkrï hill after a consider-
meant numerous groups of builders and able absence. He was a well-travelled man,
artisans working on separate projects rising and had made more than twenty pilgrimages
àt the same time.2 The situation can be quite to Mecca, most of them on foot. His spread-
chaotic without an overall concept and ing fame brought Akbar barefooted to his
specific guidelines for the entire area. Whatdoor. It was the spell of the octagenarian
were those guidelines? What was the con- saint's personality, or his prophecy that
cept or the art process ? Here, we venture toAkbar would have three sons, that comforted
participate in that art process, which by Akbar's troubled mind, The impact was
revealing itself would perhaps augment the immediate. A few royal palaces were
art product. This is an inquiry into the hurriedly constructed adjoining the Shaikh's
mental anticipation of a combination of house as Akbar decided to reside on Sïkrï
means to achieve this end product. hill. The decision to build an entire city on
Fatehpur Sïkrï was a vigorous city, a the spot and to move the court there per-
product of exceptional circumstances. De- manently, followed a year later.
signed from scratch and speedily built, Akbar's passion for building was insati-
utilizing all available talent and unlimited able. Despite the fact that he had already
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Figure 9. A cross-shaped sarai (inn) collapse now and then and new walls appear,
at the crossing of the axes through the mostly in undesirable positions. Before long
two mosques this novel structure will be changed beyond
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Figure 22. Nakshä-i-Äin-i-Manzil ( Sketch Figure 23. The four royal enclosures were
of Camp Order ) in the Court chronicle arranged axially in order of increasing privacy
6 Ain-i-Akbari 9 and security . Service areas and security
guards formed outer rings
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Figure 24. (Below, left ) Royal areas in dressed red sandstone were laid out parallel to the mosque ,
while service areas in grey quartzite followed the contours
Figure 25. (Above, right) Terrace plan showing the relationship of interconnected courts
Figure 26. (Below, right) All factors synthethized into a space-setting offering visual drama and
frequent change of scene
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Figure 31. Hãthi Põl (. Elephant Gate) approach to the palaces and the J ami Masjid.
( Photograph by courtesy of the Department of Archaeology , Government of India)
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ruins of the Jauhri Bãzãr to widen the officials on their routine visits to the monu-
existing road and to build a bigger car park. ments. These roads cutting through the
In this context the last decade was mostly preserved courtyards must be discontinued
the unmaking of Fatehpur Sïkrï. Mention and a circulatory road built instead which
of deteriorating monuments at Sïkrï did approaches the monuments from several
seem to disturb many in the government, directions without disfiguring them, and
but unfortunately we are still losing without causing inconvenience to the
Fatehpur Sïkrï very fast every year. pedestrian experience.
Many beautiful monuments located near With greater thought and careful survey
the city walls are never visited by tourists it should be possible, without interfering
because of their inaccessibility. The roadwith the life of the town, to introduce a road
system is totally inadequate. Some of thesystem which would cover a much larger
gates in the city walls present a panoramic area and bring all the scattered monuments
view of the palaces from advantageous within the reach of the tourists. The implicit
angles, but they are so inaccessible by car visual energies of the town need to be
that very few people can get up there. From augmented by a movement pattern based on
Gwãlior Gate in the south-east, one gets a a sympathetic perception of the monuments,
grand view of the imposing Buland Darwãzã , their functions and the sensitivity of their
dominating the whole countryside. The placement. Carefully handled, Fatehpur
stepped up city wall across the hill in the Sïkrï can assume an entirely new dimension
distance looks very sculpturesque from this by enabling visitors to experience Akbar's
point. Nearby is Tõdar Mai's17 octagonal dream city objectively as a meaningful
pavilion, which once stood in an extensive sequence.
garden. Not far from here, outside the The first step in this direction is to check
Terha Gate, is Bahâu-ud-Dïn's Tomb. the disruptive forces at all levels that are
Bahäu-ud-Din was the Superintendent causing of the present unmaking of this unique
Works, responsible for the construction of
historical heritage and to stop all arbitrary
the city. This pleasant little tomb lies decisions that are eroding the very principles
neglected, unkown and unvisited. of this magnificent townplan. That is the
The best view of the ridge and the royalvery least that we can do towards the making
palaces can be obtained from the Bharatpurof Fatehpur Sïkrï.
Road (Figure 32). The long lines of palaces
with their domes and pinnacles can be seen ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
from a distance of several miles as you driveI am indebted to Mr. Din Dayal Parashar,
towards the city. An approach road from thisMunicipal Commissioner, Fatehpur Sïkrï,
side could lead the visitors either straight tofor showing me around some of the old parts
the Diwãn-i-Am or to the Hãthi Põl of present Fatehpur town. His brother, Mr.
(Elephant Gate) entrance on the other Murari side. Lai Parashar, very kindly enabled
Both these entries are a rewarding experi- me to examine several old documents and
ence, and need to be developed with due drawings in the family possession. Special
care and consideration. The complete road thanks are due to Mr. Krishna Ailawadi for
system at Fatehpur Sikri needs to be re- his help in the preparation of graphic
viewed afresh, considering the ever-increas- material, and to Miss Anne Upsom for
ing tourist trade and what the city has to secretarial assistance. I am especially grateful
offer. The present roads (laid over sixty to Mr. John Burton-Page and Mr. Anthony
years ago) were meant to carry only a few Mascarenhas for the critical reading of the
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have greatly helped in further investigations. i. Vincent A. Smith, Akbar the Great Mogul 1542-
New Delhi, 1962, pp. 77. 'Agra and Fatepore are t
very great cities, either of them much greater
London and very populous. Between Agr
Fatepore ... all the way is a market of victua
GLOSSARY many other things, as full as though a man wer
in a towne, and so many people as if a man were
market.' Description by Ralph Fitch, September
Äin-i-Akbari 'Law and Regulations 2. TheatCambridge
Akbar's History of India , Vol. IV, New D
Court', compiled by his Court Chronicler and 'No sooner was the idea formed
1963» pp. 538-9.
close associate Abul Fazal. plans were prepared, artizans summoned from all
parts of his dominion, and the work pushed on with
Aurang Chhatr The royal throne with its such lightning rapidity that not only its splendour
but the almost magical speed with which it was
overhead ornamental pavilion. completed was a matter of contemporary comment.'
Bãdshãhi King's; royal. 3. B. D. Sanwal, Agra and its Monuments , 1968, pp. 46.
For details of the Chishti household see my article,
Buland Darwãzã Lofty gateway built in the 'Can Fatehpur Sikri Still be Saved?', Design incor-
south wall of Jãmi Masjid at Fatehpur Sikri. porating Indian Builder , April 1972, pp. 19-24.
Chishti The Chishti dervish order (silsilã) was 4. The Sikarwãr Citadel on tne adjoining hill north-east
of Fatehpur has been completelv chiselled down by
introduced into India by Khwãjã Muin al-Din a large number of stone-cutters working on it for the
last seven years. Its last remnants are two Bãolis
Chishti of Ajmer (1141-1236) and rapidly (stepped wells) which still exist in a rather dilapidated
established a reputation for sanctity. condition in the north-west and south-east of this
Diwãn-i-Am Court of public audience. hill. These seem to be part of the water supply
svstem which once served this citadel.
Diwãn-i-Khãs Hall of private audience. 5. Stanley Lane-Poole, Babar , New Delhi, 1964» Р- 169.
Hammãm Baths. 6. Recently the courtyard walls of this mosque have
been used for the extension of a neighbouring flour
Hãt Parão Market for the camp. mill. Left unchecked, this encroachment would soon
endanger the existence of this structure.
Hãthi Pol Elephant Gate. 7. Parts of this road can be seen in the old revenue maps
Ilãhi Gaz A unit of measurement of Akbar's of Fatehmir Sikri.
time. 8. A well in the north-east of this gate was covered and
concreted some years ago to make room for the new
Jãmi Masjid Principal mosque for large municipal offices built there. This well fulfilled the
assemblies - especially on Fridays. needs of the occupants of this Sarãi and also supplied
the great public Hammãm situated between this gate
Kãrkhãnãjãt Plural of kãrkhãnã ; meaning and the Buland Darwãzã.
workplace. Service areas and production 9. Dr. Chagtäi, basing his calculation on the discovery
of a manuscript which gives measurements of the Tãj
centres.
in gaz, defines 1 gaz as equal to 0.79 metres, i.e.
31.3 inches.
Khwãbgãh Bed chamber.
10. Keith Albarn, Jenny Miall Smith, Stanford Steele,
Lodi An Afghan tribe. Dinah Walker, The Language of Pattern, London,
Mahal-i-Khãs The Emperor's private apart-
1974, PP. 10-12.
1 1 . Minutely observing Mughal miniatures, Ellen Sm
ments.
presents an illustration from Waqiãt-i-Bãburi
(painted in Akbar's time) showing Bãbur and his
Masjid-i-Sangtrãshãn Stone-cutters' mosque.
architect discussing the plan of Bãgh-i-Wafã. Bãbur
Mir Manzil The Superintendent of Encamp-
is pointing with his right hand at the plan and three
meiit. of the gardeners stretch a rope to check the position
of the waterway. Miss Smart convincingly shows in
Nakshä-i-Äin-i- Manzil Sketch of Camp Order
an enlarged detail that this plan has lines drawn to
form a grid.
as described in Äin-i-Akbari by Abul Fazal.
See E.S. Smart, ' Graphic Evidence for Mughal Archi-
Naubat Khãnã Chowk City square with music
tectural Plans', AARP (Art and Archaeological
Research Paoersi. 6. London. IQ7¿. DD. 22-Ч.
gallery to announce royal arrivals and
12. William Irvine, The Army of Indian Moghuls , pp.
departures and other important hours. 109-10.
Parão Halt; stay; army camp or royal camp. 13. Abul Fazal Allãmi, Ain-i-Akbari, trans. H. Bloch-
mann. Delhi, iq6s, Plate IV and dd. 49-so.
Pathãn A people inhabiting the hilly country
14. For a detailed account of service areas, see my
to the north-west of Lahore; a soldier; a article, 'Imperial Workshop at Fatehpur Sikri - The
Rovai Kitchen', AARP s, dd. 28-41.
warrior; the Afghan race. 15. J. Tyrwhitt, 'The Moving Eye' in Explorations in
Pukhtã Strong ; permanent ; (a structure) made Communications , Boston, i960, p. 90.
16. See my article, 'Do India's Archaeologists Know
of baked brick or stone. what They Are Doing at Fatehpur Sikri?', Design
Rãjã A Hindu equivalent to a king. incorporating Indian Builder , New Delhi, March
1972, pp. 23-30.
Räjpüt Member of Hindu land-owning warrior
17. Todar Mai, who was an assistant Vakil, became
caste of north-west India. Prime Minister of the Empire in 1582 and prepared
a scheme for the improvement of the revenue
Rãjputãnã The country of the Räjpüts; administration.
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DISCUSSION
The Chairman: I thought I knew a little on trade routes and only twenty miles away. The
about Fatehpur Sikri, having visited it a numbertrade and crafts soon followed to Ãgrã as well.
of times, but Mr. Davar has shown me how I do not accept the view put forward by some
relatively little I do know and what an enormous historians that the city was abandoned for ever
amount there is still to know. I can hardly wait because of an unexpected shortage of water.
to go back there, and look again with the insights Mr. Reginald Massey: Is it known whom
he has given us this evening. the architects employed were ? Were they
Mr. Oscar Davies: Why was the city Indians ? Were they Hindus, or Muslims from
abandoned after fifteen years ? Iran ? Also, is there any indication of the size of
The Lecturer: It seems that there were the labour force employed ?
The Lecturer: There is no definite informa-
several personal, political and cultural factors
which must have contributed towards this. In tion about the architects employed. Kãsim Khãn
was Akbar's chief engineer for building the fort
the first instance, the very circumstances that
at Ãgrã and is mentioned here and there in other
led to this speedy undertaking lost their validity
over the years. The new city was a way of contexts. There is a small tomb at Sikri outside
celebrating the birth of Prince Salim. It was a the town wall - between the palaces and the
way of acknowledging the divine blessing and quarries. It is called Bahäu-ud-Din's Tomb.
the good luck that the place had brought. This Bahãu-ud-Din is traditionally believed to be
initial fondness for the place must have even- Superintendent of Works, perhaps responsible
tually become a sore point for Akbar, who at afor the mosque and palace complex. As the
later stage became seriously concerned about thecitadel arose with great speed, a large number of
habit and attitude of the young prince. In thismaster builders and craftsmen from all over the
growing antagonism, the king must be resent- country contributed here. Many provincial styles
fully aware of the natural sympathy and unex- can be seen at Sikri side by side, and prominent
pressed loyalty of Chishti household for Prince among these is that of Gujarãt. It has not been
Salim, who had grown up with Chishti grand- estimated, so far, how many people were em-
sons from early childhood. This is just one ployed for the job.
aspect. Shaikh Chishti, whose presence initially Mrs. Marjorie Gallop: Did the aban-
inspired the project, died soon after. donment of the city seem a very dramatic event
After a decade at Sikri, Akbar was passing at the time ? Did it have any impact on literature,
through the most critical period of his reign. were there lamentations for the abandonment,
His involvement in the famous religious debates or was it more or less written off?
at Sikri eventually led him, step by step, to
The Lecturer: It is a very fascinating
assume all powers of a religious head. Then he
question. There are references to the aban-
introduced a new religion, which in spite of
doned city in some travelogues, but I have not
subtle pressures, was not accepted by most of
come across, so far, any lamentation or personal
his close associates. This must have resulted in
sorrow expressed in the poetry or prose of the
a deep sense of personal defeat at that moment,
time.
in spite of compensations provided by success in
Mr. Derick Garnier: Whether or not one
other areas. Intelligence reports about a planned
rebellion at this time must have caused some believes that there was a shortage or failure of
uneasiness. There was trouble in Bengál on water
one at Sikri, there certainly was a very exten-
end, and his cousin Mirza Hakim in Kãbul on sive system of plumbing. Would Mr. Davar like
the other end, had ambitious plans to take to say something about tfie water system, its
advantage of the situation. An army march to creation and preservation ?
Kãbul kept Akbar away from Sikri for about a The Lecturer: There was indeed a very
year. Around this time, severe floods in Sikri elaborate water supply system for the palaces and
caused havoc, disrupting many services. The most of it is in an excellent state of preservation.
fact that these services were never fully restored As the city was built, a large lake was created in
suggests that Akbar was already disillusioned the north-west, which must have helped in soil
with this place. Later, suspected danger from saturation, as a large number of wells were built
Bädäkashän made it necessary for him to stay by the people. Two large reservoirs were built
on in Lahore, which was also more suitable for near the palaces on the two sides of the ridge.
extending the empire northwards and west- Persian wheel system was used to pull water to
wards. In history it is not at all uncommon for the palace level in three stages. The flow would
kings to shift capitals to new geographical then be directed through garden canals, tanks,
centres close to areas of activity. In the case of decorative channels, fountains, etc., using the
Sikri, however, since it was a young city, this natural slope of the hill and the varying levels of
withdrawal of Royal presence as well as patron- palace courts to collect all the water in the two
age so soon after its conception caused public reservoirs. The paved terraces also served a
abandonment as well. Noblemen generally pre- catchment areas and not a drop of water was
ferred Âgrã, a much larger city, naturally grown wasted. Both hot water and cold water systems
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