ROBBIE RABBIT BBT068

A Crochet Pattern by Sue Pendleton

Bluebeary Treasures by Sue Pendleton

Phone: (830)896-9616
Email: bluebearymailbox@aol.com
2
3

Materials and Supplies: (Bunny is approximately 8.5” (21.5cm), including ears.)

DK or sport weight yarn (See how to check your yarn for comparability on page
13.)
Cream (about 50 yds), CC = Contrasting Color
Light Brown – (about 300 yds), MC = Main Color
Black – (Few yds)
Medium Blue – (about 75 yds)
Yellow – (1/2 yd)
C Crochet hook (2.75 mm)
Fiberfill stuffing
Upholstery or other strong thread for jointing legs (optional)
Sewing Needles, including a large blunt point tapestry needle, a two-inch needle
(such as a nr 7 darner or a nr 7 milliners), 5-inch doll needle
Hemostat, dowel, long tweezers, or other long, narrow tool to help with stuffing
Watercolor pencil or makeup blusher, pink, for shading
Small sharp scissors

A list of abbreviations is provided beginning on page 15.

SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS:

Gage: Gage is not important as long as the same size thread and hook are used for all the
pattern pieces. However, since tension can vary in different circumstances, it is
suggested that when making two pieces that must be the same, such as arms and legs, that
you complete both in one sitting. The same weight yarn and hook size should be used for
all pieces unless otherwise indicated.

Round Marker (Rnd Marker): When instructed to work in rounds, you will need to
use a marker to identify the beginning of the next round. It's very easy to get lost and
lose track of stitches if a marker is not used, resulting in a piece that is not the desired
shape and/or size. Cut a 3-inch piece of contrasting yarn that is the same weight that you
are using to make the item, and place it after the last stitch of each round.

Important Note on Stuffing: The way that you stuff Harvey can greatly affect the
quality of the finished product, especially if you are thread-jointing. You'll be
amazed at the quantity of stuffing that each piece requires. The doll should be
stuffed firmly so that it won't lose its shape, but not so firmly that the stitches are
pulled apart to the extent that the stuffing shows through in a distracting manner.

Weaving/hiding loose thread ends: When making the rabbit, you can hide the loose
ends by pulling them to the inside of the piece with a tapestry needle. Pass the needle
through the piece 2 or 3 times to anchor the thread end (always go in and come out
between stitches, being careful not to catch any fabric), and then pull the thread taut, and
clip close to the surface so that it disappears inside.
For other pattern pieces, it's best to weave all loose ends as you finish each piece. If you
can't hide the beginning tail by working over it for a few stitches, leave a tail that is long
4

enough to enable you to thread it onto a needle to weave it. When you fasten off, always
leave a tail that is long enough to thread onto a needle and weave.
To weave: Thread the tail onto a needle. Working on the WS of the piece and beginning
directly beneath the place where you fastened off, insert the needle underneath and
through the upper loops of fabric for a length of 4 or 5 stitches, and then turn and repeat
through 2 or 3 of the same stitches in the opposite direction.

How to Minimize Gapping When Making Multiple Decreases: In order to minimize

gapping between your decreases, you'll need to make them as tight and close together as
possible. As you begin your first decrease, make sure that the loop around your hook
remains snug; don't let it loosen as you insert the hook into the next stitch. Bring the
stitch you're going into as close to the loop on the hook as you can, pull up your loop, and
slide it close to the first loop, keeping it snug around the hook too. Repeat the same
process pulling the third loop onto your hook. Your decrease made, you still need to
keep it very close to the next stitch after the last decrease, so keep the loop snug around
your hook, and as you insert the hook into the next stitch, bring it as close to the loop on
the hook as possible, then complete your stitch. It's well worth taking the extra time and
effort to have a nicer appearance for your bunny's feet.

SPECIAL STITCHES:

Make an adjustable ring: Leaving a tail at the beginning, anchored between little finger
and ring finger, wrap thread around index finger and middle finger of left hand (counter-
clockwise if you look with the tips of your fingers facing you). Insert hook underneath
first strand of yarn, then catch second strand with hook and pull a loop up underneath
first strand. Remove fingers of left hand from ring and hold working end of yarn. Chain
2, work number of stitches required into ring. Pull up a long loop, then, grasping the
stitches just made with right hand and tail with left (or vice versa), pull to tighten ring.
Insert hook into long loop and tighten back against hook. Making sure tail is to the back,
skip first chains worked and continue working pattern.

Make a French Knot: Bring the needle up through the fabric. Place the needle flat right
up against the thread where it came out of the fabric. Holding
the needle in place with your left thumb, wrap the thread around
the needle twice. Holding the knotted thread firmly in place
against the fabric with your left thumb, insert the a tiny bit to the
left of where it came out, and pull through to the back, pulling
the knot firmly against the fabric.

Changing Colors in Single Crochet (sc): Insert hook into stitch where change will take
place, YO and pull up a loop of old color, YO and pull new color through both loops on
hook.

Rev-sc: Reverse single crochet. Insert hook into next sc to the right, YO and pull up a
loop, YO and pull through both lps on hook.
5

Hdc3tog: *YO and insert hook into next stitch, Yoh and pull up a loop**, repeat * to **
twice, YO and pull through all loops on hook.

ROBBIE RABBIT
HEAD: (VERTICAL MUZZLE)

1. Row 1 is RS. Ch 4 with CC, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, 2 sc in last ch,
continuing around to opposite side of chain, 2 sc in 1 st free lp, sc in next free lp, 2 sc in
last free lp; ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea of next 3 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 3 sc; ch 1, turn. (16 sc)
3. Sc in ea sc around; ch 1, turn. (16 sc)
4. Sc in ea sc around; FO. (16 sc)

You will now begin working in rounds.

5. With RS facing, join MC with sc in 1st sc, sc in same pl, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc)
7 times, 2 sc in next sc, turn corner, sk 1st row end, sc in next 7 row ends, sk next row
end, sc in end of last row; do not join, pl a rnd marker. (33 sc) This is the bottom of the
muzzle.
6. Sk 1st sc, 2 sc in ea of next 5 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 10 sc, sc2tog, 2 sc in ea of next 5 sc,
sk next sc, sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog (this decrease is in the center of the bottom edge of the
muzzle), sc in next 3 sc. (39 sc)
7. Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 6 sc, sc in next 17 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 6 sc, sc in
next 4 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc. (50 sc)
8 - 9. Sc in ea sc around. (50 sc)
10. Sc2tog 8 times, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 4 sc, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog 8 times,
sc in next sc, sc2tog, sc in next sc. (37 sc)
11. Sc in ea sc around. (37 sc)
12. Sc in next 34 sc, sc2tog, sc in next sc. (36 sc)
13. Sc in next 34 sc, sc2tog. (35 sc)
14. (Sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc) 5 times. (30 sc)
15 - 16. Sc in ea sc around. (30 sc)

Begin stuffing the head.

17. (Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc) 5 times. (25 sc)

18. Sc in ea sc around. (25 sc)
19. (Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc) 5 times. (20 sc)

Continue to stuff head firmly, shaping as you go. You may wonder how this funny
looking little piece can ever be a rabbit; I certainly did the first time I made it! But as
you continue to stuff, filling out the cheeks and top of the head, and rounding out the back
of the head, a bunny shape somehow magically appears. Check your shaping from all
angles as you work.
6

20. (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 5 times. (15 sc)

21. Sc in ea sc around. (15 sc)
22. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 5 times; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end for sewing.
(10 sc)

Add as much stuffing as you need to in order to round out the back of the head.
Thread long end on the tapestry needle and sew a row of gathering stitches in and out
of FL of last rnd; pull firmly but carefully to gather; fasten off. Pass the thread end
through the head a couple of times to anchor and secure. Always make sure you bring
the needle in and out between the stitches, so as not to damage the fabric. Clip the end
very close to the head, so that it will disappear inside.

BODY:

With the bottom of the head toward you and beginning with the 1 st row of CC
stitches, count 5 rows toward the back of the head, from the center point of the edge
of the cream muzzle stitches. Measuring both sides to make sure of center, place a
mark at the center point of the 5th counted row, using a fine-tip marker.

Place a penny on the bottom of the head, centered horizontally, and with the front
edge of the penny touching the mark previously made. Keeping the penny pressed
against the head with one hand, use the other hand to draw a circle all the way
around the penny. Make sure that the circle is centered horizontally (side -to-side).
This circle marks the stitches that you will work in to begin crocheting the body.

1. Using MC, with the bottom of the head facing upward and the back of the head toward
you, join with sc by inserting your crochet hook under and bringing it out behind the
marked stitch that is positioned closest to the back of the head. Try not to catch any
stuffing. YOH and pull up a loop, YO and pull through both loops on hook, completing
the 1st sc. Make 11 more sc evenly placed around the marked circle; do not join, place
rnd marker. (12 sc)

Work over color not in use.

2. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) twice, sc in next sc, changing to CC, sc in same pl, sc in
next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, sc in same pl, changing to MC, (2 sc in next sc, sc in
next sc) twice. (19 sc)
Make sure the CC stitches are centered in the front.
3. Sc in next 7 sc, changing to CC in 7th sc (See Special Instructions for changing
colors), sc in next 6 sc, changing to MC in 6th sc, sc in next 6 sc. (19 sc)
4. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) twice, sc in next sc, sc in same pl, changing to CC, sc
in next 2 sc, (2 sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 2 sc, changing to MC in 2nd sc, (2 sc in
next sc, sc in next 2 sc) twice. (26 sc)
5. Sc in next 10 sc, changing to CC in 10th sc, sc in next 8 sc, changing to MC in 8th sc,
sc in next 8 sc. (26 sc)
7

6. Sc in next 5 sc, ch 5, sk in next 4 sc, sc in next sc, changing to CC, sc in next 8 sc,
changing back to MC in 8th sc, sc in next sc, ch 5, sk next 4 sc, sc in next 3 sc. (18 sc, 2
ch-5 sp)
7. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here (does not change stitch count), sc in
next 4 sc, sc in BL of next 5 ch, sc in next sc, changing to CC, sc in next 8 sc, changing
to MC in 8th sc, sc in next sc, sc in BL of next 5 ch, sc in next 4 sc. (28 sc)
8 - 11. Sc in next 10 sc, changing to CC in 10th sc, sc in next 8 sc, changing back to MC
in 8th sc, sc in next 10 sc. (28 sc)
12. Sc in next 10 sc, changing to CC in 10th sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in ea of
next 4 sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, changing to MC in last sc, sc in next 10 sc. (34
sc)
13. Sc in next 10 sc, changing to CC in 10th sc, sc in next 14 sc, changing back to MC in
14th sc, sc in next 10 sc. (34 sc)
14. Sc in next 10 sc, changing to CC in 10th sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc
in next 6 sc, changing back to MC in 6th sc, sc in next 10 sc. (36 sc)
15 - 20. Sc in next 10 sc, changing to CC in 10th sc, sc in next 16 sc, changing back to
MC in 16th sc, sc in next 10 sc. (36 sc)

Block the body. The white panel on the front of the body needs to be lined up and
centered in the front, so some blocking will be necessary. Grasp the body at the top edge
of one side of the panel, and about an inch down on the other side of the body, and tug
gently on the diagonal. Move around the body in this fashion, and then move down
another inch and do the same thing around the body, and then once more, until the entire
body has been blocked (dampen the piece slightly if necessary).

21. Sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog, changing to CC, sc in next sc, (sc2tog, sc in nest 2 sc) 3 times,
sc2tog, sc in next sc, changing back to MC, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sc. (30 sc)
Begin stuffing body.
Continue blocking process as you work, keeping the light section of the body centered
in the front.
22. Sc in next 9 sc, changing to CC in 9th sc, sc in next 12 sc, changing back to MC in
12th sc, sc in next 9 sc. (30 sc)
23. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 3 times, changing to CC in last sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 4
times, changing back to MC in last sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 3 times. (20 sc)
24. Sc in next 7 sc, changing to CC in 7th sc, sc in next 6 sc, changing back to MC in 6th
sc, sc in next 7 sc. (20 sc)
25. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) twice, sc2tog, changing to CC, sc in next sc, sc2tog, sc2tog
again, changing back to MC, (sc in next sc, sc2tog) twice, sc in last sc. (13 sc)
Continue stuffing.
26. (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 3 times, sl st in last sc; FO. (9 sc, sl st)

Finish stuffing firmly. Using a length of MC on a tapestry needle, sew the body
closed, side to side, with an oversew or a ladder stitch. Make sure you have 5 stitches for
the front of the seam, and 5 stitches for the back of the seam. Insert the needle into the
body and out elsewhere on body, pulling thread taut. Insert needle into exact spot where
you just brought it out, and then bring needle out again at a different place on back of
8

body. This will secure the thread. Pull on thread firmly and clip close to body so that the
end disappears into body.
Hold the bunny at eye level with the bottom facing you. Check to make sure that the
white part of the tummy lines up with the white area on the face. If not, twist and tug
gently until it does.

RIGHT ARM:
1. Join MC with sc in 3rd free lp of ch-4 at underarm, sc in next 2 free lps, turn corner
and make 2 sc in next row end, sc in next 4 sc, turn corner and make 2 sc in next row end,
sc in next 2 free lps; do not join. (13 sc)
2 - 8. Sc in ea sc around. (13 sc)
Begin stuffing. Push some stuffing up into the shoulder area so that the arm comes
down at an angle, rather than sticking straight out to the side.
9 - 10. Sc in next 3 sc, hdc in next 3 sc (elbow), sc in next 3 sc, sl st loosely in next 4 sc.
(6 sc, 3 sc, 4 sl st)
11 – 13. Sc around. (13 sc)
Continue stuffing, bending the bottom part of the arm forward where the hdc's form the
elbow.
14. Sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc. (11 sc)
15 – 16. Sc around. (11 sc)
17. Sl st loosely in next 4 sc (inside of wrist), 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next
sc. (13 sc)
18. Sl st loosely in next 4 sc, sc in next 9 sc. (13 sc)
19. Sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc. (14 sc)
20 – 21. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
22. (Sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog) twice. (12 sc)
23. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 4 times; FO, leaving long end for closing. (8 sc)

Finish stuffing, bending the paw slightly downward where the sl st's create the wrist
at rnd 17.
Thread the long end onto the tapestry needle. Sew a gathering stitch in and out of the
FL only of rnd 23; pull to gather and close. Secure and hide the end using the same
method as used for the body.

LEFT ARM:
1. Join MC with sc in 3rd free lp of ch-4 at underarm, sc in next 2 free lps, turn corner
and make 2 sc in next row end, turn corner and sc in next 4 sc, turn corner and make 2 sc
in next row end, turn corner and sc in next 2 free lps; do not join, pl rnd marker. (13 sc)
2 - 8. Sc in ea sc around. (13 sc)
Begin stuffing. Push some stuffing up into the shoulder area so that the arm comes
down at an angle, rather than sticking straight out to the side.
9 - 10. Sc in next 3 sc, sl st loosely in next 4 sc, sc in next 3 sc, hdc in next 3 sc (elbow).
(6 sc, 3 sc, 4 sl st)
11 – 13. Sc around. (13 sc)
Continue stuffing, bending the bottom part of the arm forward where the hdc's form
the elbow.
9

14. Sc in next sc, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc. (11 sc)
15 – 16. Sc around. (11 sc)
17. Sl st loosely in next 4 sc (wrist), 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc. (13
sc)
18. Sl st loosely in next 4 sc, sc in next 9 sc. (13 sc)
19. Sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc. (14 sc)
20 – 21. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
22. (Sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog) twice. (12 sc)
23. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 4 times; FO, leaving long end for closing. (8 sc)
Close and finish off same as Right Arm.

LEGS (MAKE 2):

1. Ch 11 with CC, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 5 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, 2 hdc in last
ch, moving around to work on opposite side of ch, 2 hdc in 1 st free lp, hdc in next 3 free
lps, sc in next 6 free lps; do not join or turn, place rnd marker. (12 sc, 10 hdc)
2. 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, hdc in next sc, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st)
twice, 2 hdc in ea of next 2 st, (hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st) twice, hdc in next st, sc in
next 3 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc; FO with sl st in next sc. (14 sc, 18 hdc)
3. With RS facing, join MC with sc in joining sl st on rnd 2 (at ctr back of heel), sc in ea
sc around; do not join, place rnd marker. (32 sc)
4. Sc in ea sc around. (32 sc)
5. Sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here (this changes the beginning point for the
round; it DOES NOT change the number of stitches), sc in next 10 sc, hdc in next 12
sc, sc in next 10 sc. (20 sc, 12 hdc)
6. Sc in next 8 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next st) 5 times, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sc. (26 sc)
7. Sc in ea sc around. (26 sc)
8. Sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here, sc in next 5 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) twice,
sc2tog twice, (sc in next sc, sc2tog) twice, sc in next 5 sc. (20 sc)
9. Sc in next 3 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 4 times, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc. (15 sc)
Stuff foot.
10 - 14. Sc in ea sc around. (15 sc)
Continue stuffing as you work up the leg.
15. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 3
sc, sc in next 6 sc. (18 sc)
16. Sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 8 sc. (20 sc)
17. Sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 9 sc. (22 sc)
18. Sc in ea sc around. (22 sc)
19. Sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 10 sc. (24 sc)
20 - 21. Sc in ea sc around. (24 sc)
22. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here, sc in next 10 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in
next 10 sc. (22 sc)
23. Sc in ea sc around. (22 sc)
24. Sc in next 9 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 9 sc. (20 sc)
25. Sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 8 sc. (18 sc)
26. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 6 times; FO, leaving long end. (12 sc)
10

Finish stuffing firmly. Using a length of MC on a tapestry needle, sew the leg closed,
with the seam running front-to-back, using an oversew or a ladder stitch. Insert the
needle into the body and out elsewhere on body, pulling thread taut. Insert needle into
exact spot where you just brought it out, and then bring needle out again at a different
place on back of body.

ATTACH LEGS:
You can either sew the legs to the body, or thread-joint them as follows:
First use pins to help determine where legs will be attached. With legs pinned in
position, put bunny into sitting position; make sure the legs and bottom of body are even.
Thread the doll needle with a 30-inch length of upholstery thread, doubled to 15 inches;
do not knot end. Insert needle into the bunny's hip where the leg joint will be (probably
about 7 rnds up from the center of the bottom), and push through body and out the
opposite side where leg placement has been determined; leave a 4 inch tail of thread
protruding from first side. Insert the needle back into the body one sc below exit point,
and push back through body, coming out one sc below the protruding tail. Then insert
the needle back into the same place from which the tail is protruding, push back through
body, and out at the upper point of the joint stitch. Pull the thread on both sides at the
same time to indent leg sockets, then insert needle into first leg from the inside. * Push
out other side, then insert needle back into leg in same place. Dip needle down and back
up to catch some stuffing to anchor the thread, then back out leg in same place as entry.
Go back into body in same place as upper part of thread joint,** through body and back
out opposite side in same place as upper part of joint on this side. Pull thread to force 1 st
leg into socket. Then go into 2nd leg from inside, and repeat * to ** for this
leg, then go back through body and out the other side just in front of the
leg joint. Pull thread to tighten legs against body. Cut thread, leaving a 4-
inch tail. Make sure legs are snug against body with a firm joint, then tie
both sets of tails, using a surgeon's knot (see illustration at right). Thread
the ends onto a needle, and pull through the body to hide ends; clip close
to body. If done correctly, end of thread should disappear into body.

EARS (MAKE 2):

Front:
1. With CC ch 10, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 8 ch, turn the corner and sc in end
of row, move around to opposite side of ch and sc in next 9 free lps; ch 1, turn. (21 sc)
2. Sc in next 4 sc, hdc in next 4 sc, 3 dc in ea of next 3 sc, hdc in next 4 sc, sc in next 4
sc; ch 1, turn. (8 sc, 8 hdc, 9 dc)
3. Row 3 is RS. Sc in next 6 st, hdc in next 4 st, 2 dc in ea of next 5 st, hdc in next 4 st,
sc in next 6 sc; FO. (12 sc, 8 hdc, 10 dc)
Back:
1 - 3. Using MC, repeat rows 1 – 3 of Front, except do not FO after row 3; ch 1, turn.
(20 sc)

Join Front to Back:

Place the front and the back pieces together with RS out.
11

1. Continuing with MC and working through the corresponding stitch of both pieces at
the same time, sc in next 9 st, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st) 4 times, 2 sc in next st, sc in
next 8 sc; FO, leaving long end for sewing ear to head. (35 sc)
Fold the bottom of the ear in half vertically, so that the front outer edges of the
bottom meet. Tack in place.
For the first ear, count up 6 rnds from the center rnd of the back of the head; pin the
rear crease of the ear to the head between rnds 6 and 7, and pin the
front edges between rnds 9 and 10. The lower front edge should be
slanted slightly outward from the back edge. Place the second ear
evenly with the first, with only a couple of sc separating the two at
center top. You may experiment with ear placement until you find the look that's pleasing
to you. When both ears are placed properly, sew the ears to the head using a ladder
stitch (see illustration above right).

EYES:
1. Using black, begin with an adjustable ring; make 8 sc in ring; join with sl st in 1 st sc;
FO, leaving long end. (8 sc)
Sew the eyes to the head about 3 rnds above edge of the white part of the muzzle in
the indented part of the face. Remember that a rabbit's eyes are more to the side of the
face.
Use cream-colored yarn to make a French knot in the center of each eye (see Special
Stitches).
Outline the eyes as follows: Insert a needle threaded with brown yarn into the back
of the head and bring out at the front edge of an eye; tug to pull the knot inside the head.
Wrap the thread over the eye, halfway around, and insert the needle into the face,
touching the back edge of the eye. Bring the needle back out at the front edge, in the
same place where the top outline begins, and holding the thread in position (touching the
eye all the way), pull into place. Wrap the thread under the eye this time, and insert the
needle into the face where the outline ends at the back edge of the eye. Bring the thread
out at the top edge of the eye, coming out underneath the outline thread. Going over the
outline thread so as to secure it in place, insert the needle back into the face, slightly to
the right and underneath the outline thread. Bring the needle out underneath the bottom
outline thread, and make a securing stitch in the same way as the top one; this time bring
the needle out at the front edge of the eye where the top and bottom outlines meet. Insert
the needle back into the face about the length of one sc away from the edge, and push it
back through and out the place where the two outlines meet at the back of the eye. Insert
needle back into the face about the length of one sc away from this edge. Push the needle
through the head to the other eye, and repeat the process for the second eye.

NOSE:
Use a brown yarn and a satin stitch to embroider the nose, making a
small inverted triangle (see illustration at right).

MOUTH:
Use the same thread to make a straight stitch (see illustration at right)
beginning at the bottom center of the nose and going downward about
12

the length of 2 sc. Finally, use straight stitch to make an inverted V, with the center point
of the V touching the bottom end of the line coming down from the nose.

WHISKERS. Nylon thread or upholstery thread are suitable to use for whiskers. You
can use your own method or follow my instructions as follows: Thread a needle with the
thread; insert into first side of muzzle beside the nose. Bring the needle out on the
opposite side of the muzzle, leaving a long tail protruding from the first side. Take a tiny
stitch right over the spot where your needle just came out. As you pull your needle
toward you, and the thread forms a loop, pass the needle through the loop, so that it forms
a knot against the muzzle when you pull it taut. Clip the thread to the desired length of
the whisker, then trim the opposite whisker to the same length. (It's better to start out
with the whisker threads too long than too short.) Make 2 or 3 more whiskers in the same
way.
Finish the head by shading the cheek with a pale pink pencil. As an alternative, you
can use makeup blusher, with a cotton swab as applicator.

TAIL:
1. Using CC, begin with an Adjustable Ring and make 6 sc in ring; OR ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd
ch from hook; do not join. (6 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
4. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 9 times. (27 sc)
Let the piece curl inward as you work, so that the WS of the work will be the outside
of the tail.
5 – 8. Sc in ea sc around. (27 sc)
9. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 9 times. (18 sc)
Stuff tail, not too firmly.
Gather and close; hide thread end inside tail.
Sew tail to center of lower back. If your legs are thread-jointed, make sure you don't
sew it so low that the bunny won't be able to sit down.

JACKET:
BODY (MAKE 2):

1. Ch 11 with med blue, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea ch across; ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
2. Sc in next 10 sc, ch 2, turn. (10 sc)
3. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 10 sc; ch 1, turn. (11 sc)
4. Sc in next 11 sc, ch 2, turn. (11 sc)
5. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 11 sc; ch 1, turn. (12 sc)
6. Sc in next 6 sc, turn clockwise, sc in next 6 sc, ch 1, turn, sc in next 6 sc, sk next row
end, sc in next row end, sc in next 6 sc, ch 3, turn. (13 sc showing)
7. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch, sc in next 13 sc; ch 1, turn. (15 sc)
8 - 11. Sc in next 6 sc; ch 1, turn. (6 sc)
12. Sc in next 6 sc, ch 10, turn. (6 sc, 10 ch)
13. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 8 ch, sc in next 6 sc; ch 1, turn. (15 sc)
13

14. Sc in next 6 sc, turn clockwise, sc in next 6 sc, ch 1, turn, sc in next 6 sc, sk next row
end, sc in next row end, sc in next 9 sc, ch 1, turn. (16 sc showing)
15. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (16 sc)
16 - 18. Sc in next 15 sc; ch 1, turn. (15 sc)
19. Sc in next 15 sc; FO for 1st piece, do NOT FO for 2nd piece. (15 sc)

Join the two pieces:

Ch 1, turn. Place the two pieces together with back edges meeting. Make sure that both
sides are facing in the same direction. Working in both pieces at the same time and
working loosely, sl st in ea sc across; FO. (15 sl st)
With RS together, sew shoulder seams.

Left Armhole Trim:

1. Join MC with sc in 3rd row end at underarm, sc in next 2 row ends, sc in next 9 sc to
shoulder seam, sc in next 9 free lps to underarm, sc in next 2 row ends at underarm; join
with sl st in 1st sc, FO. (23 sc)
Right Armhole Trim:
1. Join MC with sc in 3rd row end at underarm, sc in next 2 row ends, sc in next 9 free lps
to shoulder seam, sc in next 9 sc to underarm, sc in next 2 row ends at underarm; join
with sl st in 1st sc, FO. (23 sc)

SLEEVES (MAKE 2):

1. Ch 9 with med blue, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 8 ch; ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
2- 3. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
4. Sc in next 8 sc; ch 2, turn. (8 sc)
5. 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 8 sc; ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
6. Sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc; ch 2, turn. (11 sc)
7. 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 11 sc; ch 1, turn. (13 sc)
8. Sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in next sc; ch 2, turn. (14 sc)
9. 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 14 sc; ch 1, turn. (16 sc)
10 - 15. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (16 sc)
16. Sc in next 12 sc, sc2tog twice; ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
17. Sc2tog, sc in next 12 sc; ch 1, turn. (13 sc)
18. Sc in next 9 sc, sc2tog twice; ch 1, turn. (11 sc)
19. Sc2tog, sc in next 9 sc; ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
20. Sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog twice; ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
21 – 22. Sc in next 8 sc; ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
23. Sc in next 8 sc; FO, leaving long end for sewing seam. (8 sc)
Fold the sleeve in half lengthwise so that the WS is facing out; sew sleeve seam.
Turn the sleeve RS out.

Sleeve Trim (Same for both sleeves):

1. With RS facing and working in row ends around the bottom of the sleeve, join med
blue with sl st in 1st row end after seam, ch 1, sc in same pl, sc in next 22 row ends, sc in
seam; FO. (24 sc)
14

Fold the sleeve in half; mark the center of the top of the sleeve cap.
Pin the sleeve to the jacket armhole, RS together, placing the sleeve seam at the
center of the underarm, and the marked center of the sleeve cap at the shoulder seam.
Sew the sleeve in place, easing the sleeve cap to fit the armhole.

Trim Outer Edge of Jacket:

1. With RS facing, join med blue with sl st in back seam at bottom edge, ch 1, sc in same
pl, sc in next 23 row ends to bottom front corner, turn the corner and make (sc, ch 1, sc)
in 1st free lp of front edge, sc in next 9 free lps along front edge, sk end of row just
completed, sc in next row end, ch 1, sc in same pl, sc in next 8 row ends, sc in next 2 free
lps on shoulder, sc in next 3 row ends, sc2tog over next 2 row ends, sc in next 3 row
ends, sk back seam, sc in next 3 row ends, sc2tog over next 2 row ends, sc in next 3 row
ends to shoulder, sc in next 2 free lps, sc in next 8 row ends, ch 1, sc in same pl as last sc,
sc in next 10 free lps down front edge, ch 1, sc in same pl as last sc, turn corner and sk
end of row just completed, sc in next 23 row ends to ctr back; join with sl st in 1st sc; FO.
(106 sc, 4 ch-1 sp)
2. With WS of left front facing, sk ch-1 sp at bottom edge and sk next 5 sc, join med blue
with sl st in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, sc in next 17 sc, sc2tog,
sc in next 17 sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, sc in next 5 sc, sl st in next sc; FO. (49 sc,
5 sl st)
3. With WS of left front facing, sk sl st and 13 sc on row 2, join med blue with sl st in
next sc, sc in next sc, hdc in next 18 sc, sc in next sc, sl st in next sc; FO.

Weave loose ends carefully.

Turn the top corners of both front edges back to form the lapels. Tack in place.
Use yellow to make 2 French knots (see Special Stitches) for buttons on the right
front edge, below the lapel.

CARROT:
1. Ch 13 with coral, sl st in next 4 ch, sc in next 8 ch; ch 1, turn. (4 sl st, 8 sc)
2. Sc in next 8 sc, turn clockwise, sc in next 8 sc, ch 1, turn, sc in next 8 sc, sk end of
row just completed, sc in next row end, sk 3 rd row end, sc in next 2 sl st, sl st in next 2 sl
st, ch 1, continue around to opposite side of foundation chain and sl st in next 2 free lps,
sc in next 10 free lps, ch 1, turn, sc in next 9 sc, turn clockwise, sk next sc, sc in next 8
sc; FO, leaving long end for sewing.

Thread the long end onto your tapestry needle. Fold the piece in half lengthwise, and
sew the edges together, matching up stitches; do not cut the thread yet.
Stuff the fatter portion, and then insert the needle into the end of the carrot and push
through and out the open end to hide the loose thread.
Sew a gathering stitch around the open end of the carrot; pull to gather and close.
Do not cut the thread yet.
15

Carrot Greens:
1. Working from inside to outside in the row ends around the gathered top opening, join
light green with a (sl st, ch 10, sl st in 10 th ch from hook, sl st in opening, ch 12, sl st in
12th ch from hook), repeat within ( ) once; FO.
Pull on the gathering thread to tighten around the top opening, if necessary. Finish
off and hide all loose ends inside the carrot.
Sew the carrot securely to one of the rabbit's paws.

For questions or to notify the designer of errors, email: bluebearymailbox@aol.com

SOME INTERNET SOURCES FOR SUPPLIES:

Yarn:
www.herschnerrs.com
www.littleknits.com
www.joann.com

Crochet Hooks:
www.joann.com

Upholstery Thread:
www.edinburghimports.com

Hemostat, Watercolor Pencils:

www.tedsfromthreads.com
www.sassybearsandfabrics.com
www.createfor.less.com

Fiberfill Stuffing (Airtex is my favorite):

www.crscrafts.com
www.createforless.com
www.joann.com
____________________
16

ABBREVIATIONS

beg – begin/beginning lp(s) – loops

bet -- between mm – millimeter(s)
BL – back loop pl – place
ch – chain stitch rem – remaining
CL - Cluster rnd(s) – round(s)
cm – centimeter(s) RS – right side
cont -- continue sc – single crochet (same as UK dc)
Dc – double crochet (UK treble cr) sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches
Dc2tog – double crochet 2 stitches together
together sk – skip
ea – each Sl st – slip stitch (same as UK sc)
FL – front loop(s) Sp(s) – space(s)
FO – fasten off St – stitch
hdc – half double crochet tog -- together
hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 stitches WS -- wrong side
together YO – yarn over
inc – increase Yoh – yarn over hook

© 2010 by Sue Pendleton

All rights reserved. Owner may, however, sell items made from pattern.
www.bluebearytreasures.com