Article

Clothing and Textiles

Research Journal

Customer Needs and 2014, Vol. 32(4) 282-295

ª The Author(s) 2014
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DOI: 10.1177/0887302X14546362
Analysis in a Textile Dyeing ctr.sagepub.com

Process: A Case Study

K. L. Jeyaraj1, C. Muralidharan1,
T. Senthilvelan2, and S. G. Deshmukh3

Abstract
Selection of potential critical quality attributes for customer’s satisfaction with considerations of
producer’s capacity necessitates logical prioritization of customer needs. A few major challenges
remain unaddressed for customer need analysis, such as quantitative measure of customer satis-
faction, decision support, and capacity assessment of the producers. This paper presents a customer
preference analysis for customer need and satisfaction, following the basic principles of traditional
Kano model. This customer preference analysis quantifies the customer need and customer satis-
faction. It adopts the customer preference indices for measuring customer’s satisfaction and dis-
satisfaction. The relative weight of the potential critical quality attributes are calculated based the
customer preference indices. The management makes sure their capacity to provide this satisfactory
preference to the customers. The overall customer preference analysis framework addresses the
customer need analysis from a broader scenario, such that the customizable potential critical quality
attributes can be better managed at the experimental design planning.

Keywords
decision making, design process, fabric, customer preference analysis, customer need and satisfac-
tion analysis, potential critical quality attribute

Manufacturing enterprises are increasingly focusing on satisfying individual customer needs in

a highly competitive global market. A constant challenge for manufacturers is how to deal with
customer satisfaction, which in turn largely determines the customer’s willingness to buy the prod-
ucts. Understanding and fulfilling customer needs has been well recognized as one of the principle
factors for product design and development to succeed in the marketplace (McKay, de Pennington,

1
Department of Manufacturing Engineering, Annamalai University, Chidambaram, Tamil Nadu, India
2
Department of Mechanical Engineering, Pondicherry Engineering College, Pondicherry, India
3
Department of Mechanical Engineering, Indian Institute of Technology, New Delhi, India

Corresponding Author:
K. L. Jeyaraj, Department of Manufacturing Engineering, Annamalai University, Chidambaram 608002, Tamil Nadu, India.
Email: kljeyaraj@gmail.com

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Jeyaraj et al. 283

Figure 1. Conventional method of textile dyeing and finishing (a) and colorfast finish (b).

& Baxter, 2001). Analysis of customer needs information is an important task that involves the inter-
pretation of the voice of customers and subsequent derivation of explicit requirements that can be
understood by marketing and engineering (Jiao & Chen, 2006). In general, it involves three major
issues, namely (1) understanding of customer preferences, (2) requirement prioritization, and
(3) requirement classification. Among many approaches that address customer needs analysis, the
Kano model has been widely used in industries as an effective tool for understanding customer pre-
ferences owing to its convenience in classifying customer needs based on survey data (Kano, Seraku,
Takahashi, & Tsuji, 1984). Nevertheless, traditional Kano methods are not equipped with quantita-
tive assessment. Kano classification provides limited decision support in selection of quality
attributes. Moreover, it inherently emphasizes the customer and market perspectives only, with lim-
ited consideration of the producer’s capacity to fulfill customer needs. To overcome the limitations
of the Kano methods, in this research, a textile company in South India uses a colorfast finish (CFF)
process. CFF is an innovative textile pigment dyeing and finishing process (‘‘Precise and Fast,’’ 2004).
Figure 1 shows the schematic view of the CFF process compared to the conventional dyeing process.
Process control and process management should focus mainly on customer-required potential
critical quality attributes besides those of process improvement. Analysis of customer needs and
satisfaction will provide the relationship between customer needs and satisfaction. To enhance the
above-mentioned aspects in relation to customer needs and satisfaction analysis, the authors of
this article scrutinize the theoretical foundation of the original Kano model and propose customer
preference analysis for quality attributes of a textile dyeing process. The customer preference
analysis model extends the traditional Kano model (Berger et al., 1993; Kano et al., 1984) by intro-
ducing (1) quantification of customer needs and customer satisfaction; (2) customer preference
indices that are quantitative measurements of customer satisfaction derived from customer prefer-
ence analysis questionnaires and surveys; and (3) customer preference weight, which is a relative
weight that classifies potential critical quality attributes based on the customer preference indices.
A comprehensive process model is proposed to integrate these techniques for customer needs and
satisfaction.
Critical quality attributes are some measured characteristics or performance aspects of the
product or process that are deemed critical to ensure the quality requirements of either an intermedi-
ate or a final product in order to establish the intended purity, efficacy, and safety of a product. That
is, the attribute must be within a predetermined range to ensure final product quality. There may be

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 284
Table 1. Potential Critical Quality Attributes List.

Potential Critical Unit of

S. No Quality Attributes Explanation Standard Measurement Range

1 Center to selvedge variation (CSV) Shade variation across the width of the fabric CIE Lab 1976 DE 0–0.4
2 Colorfastness to washing (CFW) Shade change of the sample fabric after detergent washing AATCC 61 Gray scale 1–5
3 Colorfastness to light (CFL) Shade change of the sample fabric after exposing the sample to sun ISO 105 B02 Blue wool 1–8
or xenon light scale
4 Shade variation to the standard (CVS) Shade variation of the sample fabric to the standard reference CIE Lab 1976 DE 0-1.2
5 Colorfastness to rubbing (CFR) Shade change of the sample fabric after mechanical rubbing ISO 105 X12 Gray scale 1-5
6 Colorfastness to perspiration (CFP) Shade change of the sample fabric after keeping the fabric in acid and ISO 105E04 Acid/ Gray scale 1–5
alkaline condition Alkaline
7 Fabric weight (GSM) Weight of the fabric per m2 ASTM D 3776 g 190–270
8 Tensile strength (TENS) Tensile strength of the sample fabric ISO 13934 - 1 N 280–370
9 Tear strength (TEAS) Tear strength of the sample fabric ISO 13937 - 1 N 20–60
10 Fabric residual shrinkage (SHR) Fabric shrinkage after detergent washing ISO 5077 / ISO 6330 % 0–6

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Jeyaraj et al. 285

non–quality-specific attributes identified (e.g., business related attributes; Glodek, Liebowits, &
Squibb, 2006). The list of potential critical quality attributes is typically generated by a team using
expert knowledge, scientific judgment, and historical information on the product of interest. It
should be emphasized that some attributes are evaluated or monitored for process reproducibility
(i.e., process yield) and some are final product quality (Glodek et al., 2006).
The potential critical quality attributes of the textile dyeing process along with the ranges that
the team generated are listed in Table 1. The textile company has to meet the quality requirement
for the export fabric’s standard although the fabric is of low cost and limited end use. International
uniform standards and internal quality standards require a minimum of three washes for the fabric
testing. As a qualifying criterion, the company must meet the fabric performance requirement.
Due to these reasons, almost all the fabric performances were included in the survey. The main
objectives of this article are to:

 quantify customer needs and customer satisfaction;

 classify the potential critical quality attributes based on customer needs and customer satis-
faction; and
 provide the relative weight to the potential critical quality attributes.

This article is organized as follows: The literature review is presented followed by the meth-
ods used for the case study of a textile company. A step-by-step approach to classifying and
weighing the potential critical quality attributes with the help of customer preference analysis
is presented.

Literature Review
Using Kano’s model, quality attributes that have the greatest influence on customer satisfaction
can be identified, and these can then be used to focus on priorities for product or service develop-
ment and improvement (Matzler & Hinterhuber, 1998). Several researchers have studied Kano’s
model. Kano, Seraku, Takahashi, and Tsuji (1984) empirically confirmed the applicability of
their model for quality attributes of television products and other manufactured goods. Miyakawa
and Wong (1989) studied Kano’s model in manufactured goods. Schvaneveldt, Enkawa, and
Miyakawa (1991) explored the applicability of Kano’s model to four mass-market services: retail
banking, cleaning services, family restaurants, and supermarkets. Matzler and Hinterhuber (1998)
demonstrated the applicability of Kano’s model in combination with quality function deployment
using a case study from the ski industry. Sa Moura and Saraiva (2001) used Kano’s analysis to
develop an ideal kindergarten. Shubhapriya and Byoungho (2012) proposed a conceptual frame-
work for implementing quality apparel retail store attributes using an integrated method of
Kano’s model and the quality function deployment approach, which ensures customer satisfaction.
Schellar and Kunz (1998) have explored definitional ambiguity of apparel product quality from
the perspective of apparel producers. Quality represented value that was portrayed through three
major constructs: structural integrity, aesthetic presence, and the power of appeal. By using an
integrated Kano model, Robert and Caroline (2003) presented details of market research on a new
product aimed at customer focus from a manufacturer at the start of the textile clothing supply
chain. Ng and Wang (2007) reported two stages in this collaborative mode of product design,
namely predesign and design. At the predesign stage, certain proposed customer requirements
(CRs) were defined for the universal seamless woven fashion design. Apart from that, some real
CRs of well-defined products were achieved by surveys that set up prototypes for woven seamless
fashion at the design phase. Abraham and Littrell (1995) count fabric and garment construction,
care, value, style, and service among the important attributes of apparel. The Kano diagram

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286 Clothing and Textiles Research Journal 32(4)

provides a rough sketch of the customer’s satisfaction in relation to the product performance level.
In such a sense, only qualitative assessment of product attributes is provided by the diagram (Riv-
iere, Monrozier, Rogeaux, Pages, & Saporta, 2006; Wassenaar, Chen, Cheng, & Sudjianto, 2005).
A convenient way to incorporate quantitative measures is to assign some scales in terms of the
levels of customer satisfaction/dissatisfaction (Matzler & Hinterhuber, 1998). However, the
resulting Kano category is still qualitative in nature, which cannot precisely reflect the extent
to which customers are satisfied (Berger et al., 1993). Hence, the application of the Kano model
in quality attribute classification and selection is primitive in comparison with other quantitative
methods such as conjoint analysis (Green & Desarbo, 1978), stated choice methods (Louviere,
Hensher, & Swait, 2000), and decision-based design (Hazelrigg, 1998). The Kano model is inher-
ently customer-driven (i.e., it focuses exclusively on addressing the concerns of customers; Sireli,
Kauffmann, & Ozan, 2007). As a decision-making tool used by engineers, the Kano model fails to
account for the producer’s concerns in terms of the capacity to fulfill customer needs. In general,
customer needs tend to be imprecise and ambiguous due to their linguistic origins (Jiao & Chen,
2006). Hence, it is difficult to apply analytical tools for customer needs analysis. As a quick fix,
customer needs are translated into explicit and objective statements, namely the functional
requirements. The distinction between customer needs and functional requirements is in line with
the domain-mapping principle proposed by Suh (2001).
Whatever the customer perceives as important are the customer needs, which exist in the cus-
tomer domain. While providing customer needs, the producer must consider an economy of scale
in product fulfillment, otherwise known as the functional requirements, which exists in the func-
tional domain. In this research, a customer preference analysis is carried out in the functional
domain, and the functional requirements are classified and then prioritized for product fulfillment.
In detail, the customer preference analysis classifies the potential critical quality attributes of a CFF
based on customer needs fulfillment and customer satisfaction. It also provides the relative weight to
the potential critical quality attributes.

Methods
The proposed method is shown as a flowchart (Figure 2), which starts with identification of potential
critical quality attributes. Then, classification of potential critical quality attributes and weighing of
potential critical quality attributes through customer preference analysis are presented.
Step 1: Customer preference analysis is carried out within specific product market segments
that consist of customers with similar demographic information. Let  s denote the product  market
segment that contains a total of J customers (respondents; i.e., s  tj jj ¼ 1; 2; 3; : : :; J ). A set of
potential critical quality attributes is identified as F  ffi ji ¼ 1; 2; 3; : : : ; I g. Surveys are carried
out to collect the respondent’s evaluation of fi ð8i ¼ 1; 2; 3; : : : ; I Þ according to the active and de-
active forms of potential critical quality attributes’ questions (Table 2).
In Table 2, the active form of potential critical quality attribute measures the satisfaction level
of the customer by providing the potential critical quality attributes of the customer’s product,
while the de-active form of potential critical quality attribute measures the needs fulfillment level
by removing the potential critical quality attributes from the customer’s product. For each respon-
dent tj 2 sð8j ¼ 1; 2; 3; : : : ; J Þ, the evaluation of fi ð8i ¼ 1; 2; 3; : : : ; I Þ is represented as
eij ¼ xij ; yij ; wij , where xij is the score given to a potential critical quality attribute for the
de-active form question, yij is the score given to a potential critical quality attribute for the active
form question, and wij is the self-stated importance, which is the respondent’s perception of
the importance of a potential critical quality attribute. Similar to the method proposed by Berger
et al. (1993), the authors of this article adopt a scoring scheme that defines customer’s satisfaction/
dissatisfaction and needs fulfillment as shown in Table 2. The scale is designed to be asymmetric

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Jeyaraj et al. 287

Identify the potential Expert team will select the list of

critical quality attributes potential critical quality attributes
for customer preference analysis

Selection of market segment Homogenous market segment and

and customers for survey sample customers, needs to be
selected for the survey

Survey of customer needs

fulfillment and customer
Customer preference analysis satisfaction. Survey questions,
survey answers, scores and self stated
importance needs to be organized
and studied

Calculation of customer need X axis for the customer preference

analysis. Value 0-1, 0 becomes no
fulfillment level ( X i )
need fulfillment and 1 becomes
100% fulfillment

Calculation of customer Y axis for the customer preference

satisfaction and dissatisfaction analysis. Value 0-1, 0 becomes no
satisfaction and 1 becomes 100%
( Yi ) satisfaction

Classification of quality Classification based on customer

attributes through customer need fulfillment and customer
satisfaction.
preference analysis

Calculation of customer
preference indices ﴾ ri , αi ﴿ and
weights ﴾ ωfi ﴿

Relative weight of customer

preference analysis

Figure 2. Method flowchart.

because positive answers are considered to be stronger responses than negative ones. Hence, the
scaling has the effect of diminishing the influence of negative evaluations (Berger et al., 1993).
Furthermore, the self-stated importance score is averaged such that it falls within a range of
0–1, which is classified as not important (0.1), less important (0.2), somewhat important (0.3),
moderately important (0.4), important (0.5), highly important (0.6), very important (0.7), most
important (0.8), greatly important (0.9), and extremely important (1.0). Because this survey used
a verbal interaction method, the respondents clearly understood its objectives without ambiguity.
Initially, the importance scale and its 10 classifications was clearly explained to the customers.
The differences were explained based on ‘‘how is it important to the customers.’’ Moreover, sur-
veyed customers were managerial-level persons in marketing and purchase departments who

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288 Clothing and Textiles Research Journal 32(4)

Table 2. Customer Preference Analysis Questionnaire and Scores for Potential Critical Quality Attributes.

Customer Preference Analysis Question Customer Answer Scores

Active form of the potential critical quality attribute—satisfaction c Like 1

level (e.g., CFW is measured and fulfilled, how do you feel?) c Sure 0.5
c Neither like nor dislike 0
c Not considered 0.25
c Dislike 0.5
De-active form of the potential critical quality attribute—need c Like 0.5
fulfillment level (e.g., CFW is not provided how you do feel?) c Sure 0.25
c Neither like nor dislike 0
c Not considered 0.5
c Dislike 1
Self-stated importance of the potential critical quality attribute c Not important 0.1
(e.g., CFW, How important is?) c Less important 0.2
c Somewhat important 0.3
c Moderate important 0.4
c Important 0.5
c High important 0.6
c Very important 0.7
c Most important 0.8
c Great important 0.9
c Extremely important 1.0
Note. CFW ¼ colorfastness to washing.

( I I ) De s irable pre f e re nce (DP) 1.0 (I ) Additonal pre fe re nce (AP)

Active form of potential critical quality

0.9
attribute (Satisfaction level)

0.8
TEAS 0.7
GSM
C FL 0.6 C FR C FP
TENS
0.5
0.0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9C SV 1.0
0.4
C VS C FW
SHR
0.3
0.2
(IV) No preference (NP) 0.1 (IV) Satisfactory preference (SP)
0.0
De-active form of potential critical quality attribute
(Need fulfilment level)

Figure 3. Customer preference analysis of potential critical quality attributes.

understood the survey well. The major responsibility of the survey takers was to select the appro-
priate answer; the textile company was responsible for the arithmetic.
Step 2: For each potential critical quality attribute ðfi Þ, the average level of satisfaction for the
de-active form question within a specific product market segment is defined as Xi , and the average
level of satisfaction for the active form question within the same product market segment is
defined as Yi :

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Jeyaraj et al. 289

1X J
Xi ¼ wij xij : ð1Þ
J j¼1

1X J
Yi ¼ wij yij : ð2Þ
J j¼1

The value pair ðXi ; Yi Þ can be plotted in a two-dimensional diagram, where the horizontal axis indi-
cates the needs fulfillment level score and the vertical axis stands for the satisfaction level score.
Most ðXi ; Yi Þ should fall in the range of 0–1 because the negative values are results of either ambig-
uous or negative preference. These preferences will not be included in the averages (Berger et al.,
1993). Accordingly, the classification of a critical quality attribute can be defined based on the
corresponding location of the value pair in the diagram as shown in Figure 3.
Step 3: From the customer’s perspective, the characteristics of a potential critical quality attribute
  qffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi
ðfi Þ can be represented as a vector, that is,fi  ri  ðri ; ai Þ, where ri ¼ !
2 2
ri  ¼ Xi þ Yi is the

magnitude of ! ri and ai ¼ tan1 Xi=Yi is the angle between ! ri and the horizontal axis (Figure 2). The
rationale of representing the satisfaction and dissatisfaction as a vector ! ri is that it becomes equiv-
alent to a polar form (i.e., the magnitude of the vector denotes the overall importance of fi to the
customers belonging to segment s, and the angle ai determines the relative level of satisfaction and
dissatisfaction). Therefore, the magnitude of the vector ðri Þ is called the importance index, and the
pffiffiffi
angle ðai Þ is called the satisfaction index. Both 0  ri  2 and 0  ai  p=2 are collectively
called the customer preference indices.
Step 4: The ratiobetween importance index ðri Þ and tan of satisfaction index ðtan ai Þ provides the
importance weight Ifi of the potential critical quality attributes.
Ifi ¼ ri=tan ai : ð3Þ

Then, the relative weight ofi of the potential critical quality attributes is calculated.
If i
ofi ¼ P : ð4Þ
If i

Results and Discussion

In the customer preference analysis, requirements of customers and their satisfaction are analyzed
and classified. Satisfactory preference (SP), additional preference (AP), desirable preference
(DP), and no preference (NP) are the main classifications. SP is the combination of potential crit-
ical quality attributes which will not provide satisfaction to the customer even if it is completely
fulfilled. However, SP will cause maximum dissatisfaction when it is not fulfilled. An example of
this would be a package of olive oil that leaks. Customers are dissatisfied when the package leaks,
but when it does not leak, the result is not an increase in customer satisfaction because customers
expect these attributes and view them as the basic satisfactory level. Additional preferences are the
group of potential critical quality attributes that result in customer satisfaction when fulfilled and
dissatisfaction when not fulfilled. These are attributes that are spoken of and ones that companies
compete for. An example of this would be an olive oil package that is said to have 10% more olive
oil for the same price. It will result in customer satisfaction, but if it contains only 6% then
the customer will feel misled, and it will lead to dissatisfaction. DP is the list of potential critical

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290 Clothing and Textiles Research Journal 32(4)

Table 3. Customer Answer for Customer Preference Analysis Questionnaire.

Potential Critical Active Form of Potential De-active Form of Potential Self-Stated

S. No. Quality Attribute Critical Quality Attribute Critical Quality Attribute Importance

1 CSV Sure Dislike Great important

2 CFW Sure Dislike Great important
3 CFL Like Neither like nor dislike Moderate important
4 CVS Sure Dislike Most important
5 TENS Like Neither like nor dislike Somewhat important
6 CFP Like Dislike High important
7 CFR Like Dislike Important
8 TEAS Like Neither like nor dislike Somewhat important
9 SHR Sure Dislike Very important
10 GSM Like Neither like nor dislike Less important

Note. CSV ¼ center to selvedge variation; CFW ¼ colorfastness to washing; CFL ¼ colorfastness to light; CVS ¼ shade
variation to the standard; CFR ¼ colorfastness to rubbing; CFP ¼ colorfastness to perspiration; GSM ¼ fabric weight;
TENS ¼ tensile strength; TEAS ¼ tear strength; SHR ¼ fabric residual shrinkage.

Table 4. Customer Score, Satisfaction Level, and Need Fulfillment Level Values of Potential Critical Quality
Attributes.

Potential Critical Active Form of Potential De-active Form of Potential Self-Stated

S. No. Quality Attribute Critical Quality Attribute Critical Quality Attribute Importance Xi Yi

1 CSV 0.5 1.0 0.9 0.90 0.45

2 CFW 0.5 1.0 0.8 0.87 0.43
3 CFL 1.0 0.5 0.6 0.30 0.60
4 CVS 0.5 1.0 0.8 0.80 0.40
5 TENS 1.0 0.5 0.7 0.27 0.53
6 CFP 1.0 1.0 0.6 0.60 0.60
7 CFR 1.0 1.0 0.5 0.53 0.53
8 TEAS 1.0 0.5 0.7 0.35 0.70
9 SHR 0.5 1.0 0.7 0.67 0.33
10 GSM 1.0 0.5 0.7 0.33 0.67
Note. CSV ¼ center to selvedge variation; CFW ¼ colorfastness to washing; CFL ¼ colorfastness to light; CVS ¼ shade
variation to the standard; CFR ¼ colorfastness to rubbing; CFP ¼ colorfastness to perspiration; GSM ¼ fabric weight;
TENS ¼ tensile strength; TEAS ¼ tear strength; SHR ¼ fabric residual shrinkage.

quality attributes that provide satisfaction when fulfilled but do not cause dissatisfaction when not
fulfilled. These are attributes that are not normally expected. For example, picture a thermometer
on a package of olive oil that shows the temperature of the olive oil. Since these types of attributes
of quality unexpectedly delight customers, they are often unspoken. NP is the combination of
potential critical quality attributes that will not provide satisfaction or dissatisfaction to the cus-
tomer even if completely fulfilled or unfulfilled. For example, picture a color index on the olive
oil package that shows the color value of the olive oil.
A total of 50 (Qianli et al., 2009) fabric customers constituted the customer preference analysis
respondent set. The respondents were taken from a single market segment, the buyer list of those
who purchased the cheap cotton product of the company. These respondents were selected based
on the previous 3 years’ purchase value in descending order. A verbal interaction was done with each
customer about the survey and its objectives. Each respondent was required to answer the customer
preference analysis questions with respect to each and every potential critical quality attribute.

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Jeyaraj et al. 291

Because top purchasers of the company were included in the survey, their needs are very important to the
company and manufacturing of clothing should be based on those needs. These survey results will help
improve the company’s revenue because the respondents are the most important customers. The verbal
interaction removes the ambiguities of the customer with respect to the survey questions. Also, the inter-
action provides a comfort zone between the company and the respondents. The form of customer pre-
ference analysis questions, as well as scores for the customer’s satisfaction/dissatisfaction and needs
fulfillment of potential quality attributes used in this analysis, is shown in Table 2. The respondents have
to give their perception of the importance of potential critical quality attributes using the self-stated
importance scale (Table 2). Table 3 shows one respondent’s answer for the customer preference analysis
questionnaire. Remaining customers’ answers are tabulated similarly. Table 4 shows one respondent’s
score for customer preference analysis. Remaining customers’ scores are tabulated similarly.
Next, for each potential critical quality attribute, the average level of de-active (needs fulfillment
level) and active (satisfaction level) form questions within the market segment are computed by
Equations 1 and 2. This results in the data point Xi , Yi as shown in Table 4 and the graph in Figure
3. Sample calculation of needs fulfillment and satisfaction is given subsequently:

1 X50
X1 ¼ ð0:9  1:0Þ þ . . . . . . þ ð0:8  1:0Þ ¼ 0:9:
50 j¼1

1 X50
Y1 ¼ ð0:9  0:5Þ þ . . . . . . þ ð0:9  0Þ ¼ 0:45:
50 j¼1

Figure 3 shows the customer preference analysis of potential critical quality attributes. This matrix
was created using the data provided in Table 4. The customer preference analysis used to group the
potential critical quality attributes is based on CRs and customer satisfaction. This is the matrix of
de-active forms of potential critical quality attributes and active forms of potential critical quality
attributes. Active means providing the potential critical quality attribute of the customer’s product
and asking for feedback from the customer (e.g., colorfastness to washing [CFW] is measured and
fulfilled; then ask customers how they feel). De-active means not providing the potential critical
quality attribute of the customer’s product and asking for feedback from the customer (e.g., CFW
is not provided; then ask customers how they feel). The de-active form of critical quality attribute
is termed ‘‘needs fulfillment level’’ and is quantified by Equation 1. The active form of critical
quality attribute is termed ‘‘satisfaction level’’ and is quantified by Equation 2. In Figure 3, the
points seen in customer preference analysis are obtained by plotting the coordinate points of
x as needs fulfillment level and y as satisfaction level. Two perpendicular lines passing through
the coordinate (0.5, 0.5) divide the matrix or graph into four quadrants. The mid coordinate is fixed
based on the maximum and minimum value of needs fulfillment and satisfaction (1, 1) and (0, 0).
On the x-axis, 0 means no customer needs fulfilled, 1.0 means 100% needs fulfilled, and 0.5 means
50% needs fulfilled. On the y-axis, 0 means customer completely dissatisfied, 1.0 means 100%
satisfied, and 0.5 means 50% satisfied. If the customer satisfaction is lower than 50%, it is said
to be ‘‘less customer satisfaction.’’ If it is more than 50%, it will be considered ‘‘more customer
satisfaction.’’ Similarly, if the needs fulfillment is lower than 50%, it is said to be ‘‘less needs
fulfillment.’’ If it is more than 50%, it will be considered ‘‘more needs fulfillment.’’ The first
quadrant is named ‘‘additional preference;’’ it consists of more needs fulfillment and more satis-
faction to customers. The second quadrant is named ‘‘desirable preference;’’ it consists of less
needs fulfillment and more satisfaction to customers. The third quadrant is named ‘‘no prefer-
ence;’’ it consists of less needs fulfillment and less satisfaction to customers. Even with appreci-
able increment in the satisfaction level, there will be no change in the satisfaction level. The fourth

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292 Clothing and Textiles Research Journal 32(4)

quadrant is named ‘‘satisfactory preference;’’ it consists of more needs fulfillment and less satis-
faction to customers. SP consists of potential critical quality attributes fabric residual shrinkage
(SHR), center to selvedge variation (CSV), CFW, and shade variation to the standard (CVS). If
these attributes are 100% fulfilled, the customer will be satisfied. Even if 1% is not fulfilled, the
customer will be dissatisfied. These are basic requirements for the customer. The product should
satisfy this minimum preference for its acceptance. The company should keep these requirements
as its basic quality control plan. SP provides fitness for use of the product. AP consists of the
potential critical quality attributes such as colorfastness to perspiration (CFP) and colorfastness
to rubbing (CFR). If the attributes are fulfilled, the customer will be satisfied; and if they are not
fulfilled, the customer will be dissatisfied. This additional preference will have linear behavior in
the first quadrant. The linear behavior exists where a particular attribute has an equal coordinate
value in the quadrants. CFP has the coordinate value (0.6, 0.6), which means that when the CFP is
fulfilled the customer gets satisfaction, but when it is not fulfilled the customer gets the same level
of dissatisfaction. A similar effect is identified in the attribute CFR, which is also an additional
preference. The other attributes do not have the same effect of linear behavior. Sometimes the additional
preference can be extended up to the third quadrant. Linear coordinates of less than (0.5, 0.5) will auto-
matically fall in the third quadrant. The attributes following this kind of pattern will produce satisfaction
if provided and the same level of dissatisfaction if not provided, but both satisfaction and dissatisfaction
will not have a significant impact. Additional preferences are extra potential critical quality attributes
given to the customer. Some potential critical quality attributes might have been followed by the company
as part of its policy or may be in its quality system manual. These additional potential critical quality attri-
butes will be incorporated in the product quality without the customer asking. AP enriches the customer.
DP consists of potential critical quality parameters such as colorfastness to light (CFL), tensile strength
(TENS), tear strength (TEAS), and fabric weight (GSM). If these attributes are less fulfilled, the customer
will still be satisfied; and if they are not fulfilled, the customer will not be dissatisfied. This is because the
end use of the manufactured textile clothing will be very cheap, single-time use, nonwashable uniforms for
middle-aged housekeeping staff. DP is the implied potential critical quality attributes in the finished prod-
uct due to the quality of purchased raw material and other supplied material of the product. Sometimes
these attributes might be skipped in the measurement stage but unknowingly applied to the finished prod-
uct. Attributes under DP will be received by the customers by chance or luck. TENS and TEAS mainly
depend on the purchased cotton yarn strength, while GSM depends on the cotton yarn and weave pattern of
the greige fabric. Because the end use of the manufactured textile clothing is very cheap, the company
purchases open end (OE) yarns for spinning because of the low cost. Obviously, OE yarns would be
allowed higher levels of defects and imperfections. CFL depends on the pigments used for the fabric. The
dyeing of the green housekeeping uniform occurs with the turquoise blue substrate, which will always pro-
duce lesser light fastness results. Due to the OE yarns and turquoise blue substrate, the processing and fin-
ishing departments will not have any direct control over these quality attributes of DP. Due to cost reasons
and nonavailability of green pigments, the processing department has its hands tied with regard to DP attri-
butes. None of the potential critical quality attributes will fall in the NP category. SP is the high-priority
combination of potential critical quality attributes that avoid customer dissatisfaction. This should be pro-
vided to the customer without any deviation. The study of this satisfactory preference combination of
potential critical quality attributes is of high priority compared to other additional and DPs. Table 5 shows
the importance index and satisfaction index of the potential critical quality attributes.
Table 5 also shows the importance  weight and relative weights of the potential critical quality
attributes. The importance weight Ifi of the potential  critical quality attributes is calculated
based on Equation 3. Then, Then, relative weight ofi of the potential critical quality attributes
is calculated based on Equation 4. From Table 5, we see that the SP of potential critical quality
attributes has a higher weightage compared to all other preferences. Calculation of weight of the
potential critical quality attributes from the customer preference indices is a novel approach. This

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Jeyaraj et al. 293

Table 5. Importance, Relative Weight of Individual Potential Critical Quality Attributes, and Customer
Preference Analysis Category-Wise Relative Weight.

Importance Relative Relative

Potential Critical Importance Satisfaction Weight
 Weight
 Customer Weight
Quality Attribute Index ðri Þ Index ðai Þ I fi ofi Preference Analysis of CPA

CSV 1.00 26.50 2.01 0.20 Satisfactory preference (SP) 0.71

CFW 0.97 26.30 1.94 0.19
CVS 0.89 26.50 1.79 0.17
SHR 0.75 26.20 1.49 0.15
CFP 0.85 45.00 0.85 0.08 Additional preference (AP) 0.16
CFR 0.75 45.00 0.75 0.08
TEAS 0.78 63.43 0.39 0.04 Desirable preference (DP) 0.13
GSM 0.75 63.70 0.37 0.04
CFL 0.67 63.43 0.34 0.03
TENS 0.60 63.00 0.30 0.02
Note. CSV ¼ center to selvedge variation; CFW ¼ colorfastness to washing; CFL ¼ colorfastness to light; CVS ¼ shade
variation to the standard; CFR ¼ colorfastness to rubbing; CFP ¼ colorfastness to perspiration; GSM ¼ fabric weight;
TENS ¼ tensile strength; TEAS ¼ tear strength; SHR ¼ fabric residual shrinkage. No potential critical quality attributes in
the No preference (NP) category.

relative weight of the potential critical quality attributes (Table 5) clearly shows its importance
toward the customers. The quantification of customer preference analysis by relative weight pro-
vides an unambiguous importance of the classification.

Conclusion
Selection of potential critical quality parameters for customer’s satisfaction with considerations
of producer’s capacity necessitates logical prioritization of customer’s needs. A few major chal-
lenges remain unaddressed for customer needs analysis, such as quantitative measures of customer
satisfaction, decision support, and capacity assessment of the producers. The authors of this article
present a customer preference analysis for customer needs and satisfaction, following the basic
principles of the traditional Kano model while also consolidating the theoretical foundation.
Kano’s model is a good tool for industries to use in analyzing key quality attributes in order to
make better decisions on quality strategies. However, the existing model has a deficiency in that
the degree of importance of quality attributes is neglected. Customers are the only judges of qual-
ity in goods and services, and they evaluate the quality by using several attributes that are impor-
tant from their perspective. Thus, degree of importance is a critical dimension considered by
customers when they are evaluating the quality performance. This customer preference analysis
quantifies customer needs and customer satisfaction. It adopts the customer preference indices for
measuring customers’ satisfaction and dissatisfaction. The relative weight of the potential critical
quality attributes is calculated based on customer preference indices. Based on this study, it is sug-
gested that satisfactory preferences are a very important combination of potential critical quality
attributes for the customer. SP consists of the potential critical quality attributes such as SHR,
CSV, CFW, and CVS. The management makes sure they have the capacity to provide this satis-
factory preference to customers without any deviation. Customer preference analysis is not only a
useful practical tool for industries but also a theoretical model for academic research. Customer
preference indices in combination with relative weights are deemed useful extensions to the tra-
ditional Kano model where the classification criteria are subjective and unjustifiable.

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294 Clothing and Textiles Research Journal 32(4)

The novel method of calculating relative weight of the potential critical quality attributes pro-
vides an excellent way to quantify customer importance. Based on the relative weight, customer
preference analysis is also quantified. Customer preference analysis defines systematic procedures
to elicit the customer needs and to conduct surveys for customer needs analysis. The overall
customer preference analysis framework addresses the customer needs analysis from a broader
scenario such that the customizable potential critical quality attributes can be better managed at
the robust experiment planning stage.
Because this study is a more generic approach, it could be deployed to the value chain of the
textile process. The value chain elements of ginning, spinning, sizing, weaving, knitting, dyeing,
finishing, and garmenting are suitable for implementing customer preference analysis; however,
care should be given to the performance attribute selection according to the field of interest. For
garmenting operations, style, fit, seam strength, and shrinkage are some of the quality attributes
that could be classified with customer preference analysis. The expert team should select the per-
formance attributes and then customer preference could be imparted. Similarly, it can be applied to
other elements of the textile value chain. This study will help textile companies’ top management,
research and development managers, dyers, and market research managers capture customer pre-
ference in the process performance list.

Acknowledgment
The authors would like to thank the Managing Director (Mr. Prithiv), Gee Kay Printing Mills, Tirupur, India,
and his subordinates for their support and committed cooperation to this study.

Declaration of Conflicting Interests

The author(s) declared no potential conflicts of interest with respect to the research, authorship, and/or
publication of this article.

Funding
The author(s) received no financial support for the research, authorship, and/or publication of this article.

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Author Biographies
K. L. Jeyaraj, ME, is a research scholar in the Department of Manufacturing Engineering, Annamalai
University, Chidambaram, Tamil Nadu. His areas of research interests are production and operations man-
agement; email: kljeyaraj@rediffmail.com

C. Muralidharan, ME, PhD, is a professor in the Department of Manufacturing Engineering, Annamalai

University, Chidambaram, Tamil Nadu. His areas of interests are quality management and operations manage-
ment. His work has been published in various national and international journals; email: muralre@yahoo.co.in

T. Senthilvelan, ME, PhD, is a professor in the Department of Mechanical Engineering, Pondicherry Engi-
neering College, Pondicherry. His areas of interests are manufacturing engineering and production and
operations management. His work has been published in various national and international journals; email:
senthilvelan@pec.edu
S. G. Deshmukh, MTech, PhD, is a professor in the Department of Mechanical Engineering, Indian Institute
of Technology, New Delhi. At present, he is the director (on deputation) of Indian Institute of Information
Technology, Gwalior. His areas of interests are supply chain management and operations management. His
work has been published in various national and international journals; email: sgdeshmukh2003@yahoo.co.in

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