FACULDADE BWS

CURSO DE PÓS-GRADUAÇÃO EM MEDICINA

ESTÉTICA

INTEGRATIVE BEAUTY MEETS AESTHETIC INTELLIGENCE

BY

JOANA CEZAR KEBSS DE MACENA

RIO DE JANEIRO
2021
 FACULDADE BWS
CURSO DE PÓS-GRADUAÇÃO EM MEDICINA
ESTÉTICA

INTEGRATIVE BEAUTY MEETS AESTHETIC INTELLIGENCE

BY

JOANA CEZAR KEBSS DE MACENA

Final project for the Postgraduate Course

in Aesthetic Medicine under the guidance of
Professor Nelson Rosa for the attainment of
the Specialist degree.

RIO DE JANEIRO
2021
"Interest speaks all languages, and no task
will be difficult when we have an interest
in executing it."

Adão Myszak
To my family.
I’m thankful to everyone who has been with me throughout this journey.
To Dr. Nelson Rosas, who with wisdom and willingness,
appreciated the content of this work.
 TABLE OF CONTENTS

1 INTRODUCTION…………………………………………………………….…………7

1.1 MAIN CODES FOR INTEGRATIVE BEAUTY ………………………….……….7

1.2 NEUROSCIENCE BEHIND BEAUTY …………………………………….………7

1.3 PERSONALITY JUDGMENTS: THE PLEASURE OF BEAUTY ………..…….9

1.4 BUILDING BRIDGES BETWEEN BEAUTY AND WELL-BEING ……….…..12

1.5 THE ATTRACTIVE FORCE OF AESTHETICS ……………………………….14

1.6 AESTHETIC INTELLIGENCE IN SUCCESSFUL DESIGN ……………….…17

1.7 SENSORIAL CUES AND EMOTIONAL TRIGGERS …………………………18

2 DEVELOPMENT …………………………………………………………………….19

2.1 MOST EMPLOYED TERMS AND THEIR DEFINITIONS …………………...21

2.2 MAIN COSMETIC COMPONENTS: WHAT STUDIES SAY …………………24

3 WHERE CANNABIS MEETS SKIN CARE ………………………………………30

3.1 CBD AND ITS INTERACTION WITH THE SKIN ……………………………30

3.2 CBD SEEMS PROMISING FOR ………………………………………………...31

4 ACTIVATING THE ENDOGENOUS ANTIOXIDANT SYSTEM ………...……36

4.1 PLANT-BASED NUTRITIONAL INTAKE AND DIET …………………….…38

4.2 DHEA AND ITS SYSTEMIC CONTRIBUTION TO FREE RADICALS

MANAGEMENT……………………………………………………………………….39

5 CONCLUSION ………………………………………………………………………41

BIBLIOGRAPHICAL REFERENCES ………………………………………………42

1 INTRODUCTION

1.1 MAIN CODES FOR INTEGRATIVE BEAUTY

In this study, I propose assistance to the beauty of the human body in a comprehensive and
sustainable manner, where men are part of an interconnected ecosystem with other human beings and
the environment. Thus, I suggest attention to the main criteria of beauty and youthfulness, such as
skin and hair, musculoskeletal system, adipose tissue, with a special focus on systems interconnected
to the maintenance of these main components, including the intestinal mucosal barrier, hepatic
detoxification system, adipose tissue, and the circadian cycle energizing the endocrinological chain. I
emphasize their main aspects and propose some sustainable solutions among the existing ones.

Identifying the concepts of clean beauty and conscious beauty, also described as "clean
beauty" and "slow beauty," I explore why it has become a trend among different generations,
providing insight into what should indeed be absorbed as a change in consciousness and paradigms. I
discuss practices that some brands are already implementing in their products and what is
scientifically proven, contrasting with the alarmism that marketing strategies tend to employ.

What should we absorb in a practical and concise manner, considering that what is natural can
also be harmful and even poisonous? And preservatives? They are necessary to make products
available for a long period. But should they be replaced by what?

Each brand has its own definition of being "clean," but there is no standardization of what that
truly means. Updates to the "clean" protocol are made as new information and innovations become
available. For example, essential oils and natural ingredients do not imply risk-free and 100% safety.

1.2 THE NEUROSCIENCE BEHIND BEAUTY

Beauty influences many of our decisions, playing a prominently evident role in business as

well. According to data collected in 2015, the Global Wellness Institute (GWI) reports that beauty

generates $999 billion worldwide. Evidence from psychology to neuroscience suggests that we

automatically respond to beauty. Moreover, we are biased to associate beauty with goodness. This

automatic link can be potentially harmful and reveals that the connection between beauty and well-

being can be deceptive. The research reported here is motivated to understand the best way to

strengthen the link between beauty and well-being.

Beauty can contribute significantly to well-being. Research shows that attractive individuals

receive advantages in life (both in terms of higher pay and being perceived as more intelligent), while
individuals with facial disfigurement experience the opposite. The first study examines the extent and

depth of biases against disfigured people to help overcome them. Facial disfigurement has the

potential to induce innate negative responses that hinder the potential of these individuals to flourish.

"The link between beauty and well-being is not obvious. An unhealthy preoccupation with

beauty can emphasize a 'if it's beautiful, it's good' stereotype, where people are judged based on their

appearance rather than their actions," says Dr. Chatterjee. "Our first study showed that people make

deep inferences about a person's personality based on superficial features. Defective faces are

considered defective people. The cosmetics industry can mitigate these judgments that likely

negatively impact people's well-being at work and in leisure (CHATTERJEE, 2018).

The second study, using natural language processing, identifies the concepts that fill the

semantic space between beauty and well-being while investigating related words such as "beautiful"

and "well-being." Further analyses will identify how these bridging concepts vary by gender and age

cohorts (Millennials, Gen X, etc.). By identifying words that incorporate elements of beauty and well-

being, the wellness industry can operationalize these concepts and create innovative ways to link

beauty to well-being, capitalizing on how people truly think.

Together, these two studies provide evidence-based insights that can mitigate the barriers

between beauty and well-being and build new bridges that can enhance the connection between them.

In the first study, it was found that people make automatic personality judgments when

looking at faces. Individuals with mild facial disfigurement are considered to have more negative

personal attributes than if they did not have these deformities. These negative associations are made

implicitly and likely have a negative impact on the individual's well-being. This result suggests that

facial enhancement that minimizes the perception of minor facial anomalies likely has an impact on

how people feel, how they are treated, and mitigates threats to their well-being (CHATTERJEE,

2018).

The second study used linguistic processing to identify the concepts linking beauty and well-

being. Using 10 years of Google Analytics as a database, sets of words forming categories that link

beauty and well-being were discovered. One category, which can be called culture and self-care, was

not represented in this analysis (this area may be a future target for economic development). Terms

conveying elements of both beauty and well-being were also identified. These terms identify potential
marketing strategies for the industry to link beauty and well-being.

1.3 PERSONALITY JUDGMENTS: THE PLEASURE OF BEAUTY

People respond to beauty automatically, and this response is observed in people's behavior as a
result of neural connections. Beautiful individuals receive numerous advantages in life: they are more
likely to be hired, receive higher salaries, face fewer penalties, and are considered more intelligent
and trustworthy (Langlois et al., 2000). The cortex visual is responsible for this response to beauty
(Chatterjee, Thomas, Smith, & Aguirre, 2009). When people judge the identity of faces, their brains
respond to this beauty, automatically triggering the reward system (Kim, Adolphs, O’Doherty, &
Shimojo, 2007).

Together, these results have demonstrated that we have automatic beauty detectors in the brain
that link vision and pleasure, even when people are not consciously thinking about the beauty of
another person.
 We also have a stereotype that "beauty is good." Parts of our reward systems connect beautiful

faces with morally good acts (Wang et al., 2015). This study aimed to determine if people's judgments

are biased against individuals with facial disfigurement using natural images. Results demonstrated

that individuals who underwent treatment for their disfigurement were perceived as having more

positive attributes than before the treatment (Jamrozik, Oraa Ali, Sarwer, & Chatterjee, 2017). Faces

post-treatment were judged to have more positive personality traits than pre-treatment faces. They

were assessed as more pleasant, emotionally stable, open to experiences, and extroverted.
 Post-treatment faces were judged to have more positive internal attributes: they were assessed
as more pleasant, honest, happy, and calm compared to individuals pre-treatment. They were also
rated as more intelligent, competent, and hardworking.

Men were more biased than women in judging how intelligent, competent, hardworking, and
optimistic disfigured individuals were.

Furthermore, before treatment, individuals were more likely to appear as objects of curiosity to
observers compared to after treatment.

Understanding the extent and depth of such observational biases is crucial to comprehending
how we can overcome them and contribute to a society that supports individual well-being. This bias
appears to be implicit, and people may not realize they have a prejudice, even though it is evident in
their behavior.
 These results demonstrate that people make inferences about someone's personality when
they look at a face. These inferences occur automatically, even when no other information about
the person is available. Defective faces are considered defective people. Cosmetic and aesthetic
enhancement, by limiting and correcting observable facial flaws, mitigates adverse and automatic
judgments that observers are biased to make.

1.4 BUILDING BRIDGES BETWEEN BEAUTY AND WELL-BEING

The connections between beauty and well-being can be identified through language usage

patterns, assuming that words are related to patterns of behavior through their sets of associations and

meanings (CHATTERJEE, 2018).

 Interestingly, the display indicates that "Products" are closer to Beauty than to Well-being.
Nutrition and activities are closer to well-being than to beauty. Health, spas, and culture are
approximately equidistant from both.

There was a notable agreement between these linguistic categories and the categories
identified in the Global Wellness Institute's 2015 Global Wellness Economy and Trends Report.
 The concept categories were created and derived from language processing using 10 years
of Google Adwords, as the linguistic body was in concordance with the economic categories
identified by the GWI Economic Monitor.

A category of word groups not represented in this global wellness analysis diagram is the
category of culture and self-care. This category includes arts, education, entertainment, and culinary,
for example. Culture, arts, and activities focused on self-care and flourishing represent a domain yet
to be explored as a focus for future analyses (CHATTERJEE, 2018).

Another noteworthy category is words with meanings that incorporate elements of both beauty
and well-being. The following 12 words are related to both beauty and well-being: aesthetics,
fascination, elegance, fabulous, glamor, kindness, radiant, sensual, simplicity, style, exclusivity, and
vitality. These words serve as a semantic bridge to capture part of the meaning of beauty and part of
the meaning of well-being. These concepts highlight strategic targets for the wellness industry and can
be used in marketing strategies that unite beauty and well-being (CHATTERJEE, 2018).

1.5 THE ATTRACTIVE POWER OF AESTHETICS

Studies investigating the universal biological correlates of humans with beauty demonstrate
that human sensory, emotional, and cognitive biomechanisms are activated in response to perceived or
felt beauty. There are some basic traits that all beautiful stimuli contain. Based on Darwin's theory of
evolution, humans' idea of beauty is shaped by two forces: natural and sexual selection. Natural
selection can be defined as "a force that selects resilient characteristics, both physical and mental,
passively eliminating characteristics that are less effective than others for survival." (FENTON, 2021,
p. 2).
 Attraction strongly influences what people find beautiful. Academic Anjan Chatterjee believes
that there are three main parameters contributing to universal attractiveness:
averageness/commonality relative to the mean, symmetry, and the exaggeration of sexually dimorphic
characteristics (FENTON, 2021, p. 3).

Evolution has shown that if a feature is average relative to its surroundings, it has a higher
likelihood of survival. This is corroborated by research suggesting that humans prefer hybrids over
inbred individuals. This makes sense because hybrids exhibit signs of genetic diversity, contributing
to greater flexibility to adapt and survive in varied conditions.

Symmetry is another universally attractive feature, primarily explained by the force of natural
selection. Symmetry is an indicator of health because it implies that the person has a healthy nervous
and immune system. This is because, at a subconscious level, people associate asymmetries with the
effects of diseases, suggesting that asymmetrical bodies are less efficient in moving toward goals,
avoiding danger, and living a long life (FENTON, 2021, p. 3).

The last parameter of universal attractiveness is sexually dimorphic characteristics, those that
emphasize the differences between the sexes (FENTON, 2021, p. 3). These characteristics are effects
of the sex hormones estrogen (feminizing) and testosterone (masculinizing). The male sex is
particularly attracted to feminine features signaling fertility or showing physical effects of estrogen,
such as high foreheads, small noses, large eyes, full lips, and small chins, features linked to high
estrogen levels. Conversely, heterosexual women seem to be attracted to features associated with the
physical effects of testosterone, such as square jaws, thin cheeks, and thick eyebrows.

Overall, the concept of human attractiveness is linked to survival and reproduction. The neural
mechanisms in the human brain related to attractiveness activate cognitive reward that exists between
beauty and pleasure. This is because the anatomical structures activated by attractiveness, beauty, and
pleasurable stimuli tend to induce feelings of cognitive reward in the human brain. These structures
are involved in a circuit between object recognition, emotion, and reward.

Firstly, the main structures involved in object recognition are the Area V1 (visual cortex,
located at the back of the occipital lobe and responsible for visual information processing), fusiform
face area (FFA, located in the ventral part of the temporal lobe, important for recognizing faces), and
parahippocampal gyrus (PPA, role in recognizing environmental scenes) (FENTON, 2021, p. 4).

Secondly, the main structures involved in emotional functions are the amygdala, insula,
orbitofrontal cortex (OFC), and ventromedial prefrontal cortex (vmPFC). The amygdala is located in
the frontal portion of the temporal lobe of the brain, being important for the early detection and rapid
response to emotional information. Similarly, the insula is activated when someone experiences
positive emotions and sensations. The OFC and vmPFC are both located in the prefrontal cortex, just
above the eye sockets. They are also activated when someone experiences emotion. Once these
emotional structures are activated, they go on to stimulate reward-based structures in the brain
(FENTON, 2021, p. 4-5).

Thirdly, the structures involved in reward functions are the nucleus accumbens, OFC, and
vmPFC. The nucleus accumbens is located in the basal forebrain. It analyzes and processes reward
and gives the brain a sense of pleasure and desire. Finally, the OFC and vmPFC, discussed above,
help mediate reward through their connection to the nucleus accumbens (FENTON, 2021, p. 5).

Thus, directly (reward structures) or indirectly (object recognition structures), they generate
feelings of cognitive reward, suggesting that humans behave according to evolutionarily determined
attractiveness patterns because when they look at attractive people, they are biologically programmed
to activate neural structures that induce feelings of pleasure. This cascade neural activation is a
biological reinforcement that we are attracted to individuals with certain evolutionarily desirable
traits. This idea is supported by University of Oslo researcher Olga Chelnokova, PhD. (FENTON,
2021, p. 5).
1.6 AESTHETIC INTELLIGENCE IN SUCCESSFUL DESIGN

The term "aesthetic intelligence" refers to the connection between the multiple sensory levels
we experience, creating a desire for the product (service or person) and eliciting an extraordinary
experience through the sensation of delight: relaxation, comfort, and serenity.

Gratifying emotions reduce blood pressure, strengthen the immune system, increase
productivity, and can be inspired by symmetry, bright colors, soothing sounds, explaining the success
relationship with the connection to the five senses.

Visual perception connects us with experiences and memories. Smell, through its connection
to the olfactory bulb and limbic system, triggers emotion, memory, and associative learning.

It is evident that the aesthetic delight caused by aesthetic intelligence promotes the Halo
Effect: profound gratification or pleasure that individuals feel when their senses are aroused by
contact with a product, experience, or service (at least 3 of the 5 senses must be activated). In her
book, Pauline Brown also highlights that 50% of consumer satisfaction is perceived by anticipation
and memory of past experience, and 50% is connected to the current/immediate experience.
Therefore, one should think about the customer experience from the beginning to the end of the
interaction with them. When packaging and unpacking a product, for example, an exciting story is
told where the first impression makes an impact, the tactile experience and seductive design add to
emotions and memories.

The sensory appeal should be personalized, guiding the customer to feel special and making
the experience a self-gratification ritual. It should offer the sensation of being unique and
communicate this through the senses. The best players in the market offer an impactful sensory
experience while making this design imperceptible—it's feeling good without being able to exactly
explain why. The human brain is conditioned to correlate information from the five senses, so sound
is capable of influencing even taste. Drawing these parallels, many tricks can be used to increase
customer satisfaction.
1.7 SENSORY CUES AND EMOTIONAL TRIGGERS

We are more emotional beings than rational ones. The decision to purchase a product is based
on how the offer makes the consumer feel at an unconscious and sensory level, where they may try to
find a rational explanation to justify this decision, but in reality, it had an emotional root. This
emotional connection is essentially related to brand codes and is the root of the desire for the product
or experience. Therefore, something new, for example, can be presented as new and exciting rather
than new and untested.

Strategies creating exciting and unique experiences generate desire, loyalty, functionality, and
increase curiosity, as well as create a sense of community. Codes and elements arise from expressions
and behaviors that are frequently evidenced, and with consistency and authenticity, they ensure
emotional adherence.

Intrinsic human desires such as expressing oneself, discovering, encouraging, and beautifying
bring a deep and empathetic understanding of consumers in how they feel, what seduces them, and
how their pleasure can be enhanced. Engaging people authentically according to what is important to
them can be an aesthetically powerful and interesting effect. Conveying aesthetic skill, bringing one's
own personality to the work and curating what is effective can increase sensitivity to consumer
preference for a particular professional or brand.

According to the author of this book, Pauline Brown, good taste and style can be displayed in
the 4 Cs: clarity, consistency, creativity, and confidence. To do this, we must be careful to describe a
product or service in a way that any listener sees exactly the same image that the author is describing,
avoiding communication or perception noise.
2 DEVELOPMENT

The skin, the body's largest organ, is also the most vulnerable. Exposed to the oxidative effects
of UV radiation from the sun and the oxidative effects of oxygen in the air, and years of oxidative
stress, it becomes thinner, more easily damaged, loses volume and elasticity, wrinkling. Three main
pillars contribute to skin aging: 1) oxidative stress induced by sun damage, 2) inflammation, and 3)
ischemia or lack of adequate blood flow. Oxidative stress reveals the need for antioxidants, but how to
maintain the supply of what it needs and protect it from what can damage it?
(NUTRITIONFACTS.ORG, 2012).

a) Integrity of the gastrointestinal mucosa:

A diet rich in fruits, vegetables, and fiber. Support with pre and probiotics and
supplementation with nutraceuticals, vitamins, and minerals. Avoid intake of saturated fat and
cholesterol, which can contribute to inflammation of the intestinal mucosa culminating in increased
oxidative stress.

In particular, a high intake of vegetables, legumes (beans, peas, lentils, and soy), and olive oil
seems to protect against skin aging, while a high intake of meat, dairy, and butter suggests the
opposite effect (NUTRITIONFACTS.ORG, 2011).

Plums, apples, and green tea appear to be especially protective. A recent study reveals that
green tea phytonutrients were able to protect the skin from harmful UV radiation and help improve
the skin quality of women. After a few months of drinking green tea, there was a 16% reduction in
skin roughness and a 25% reduction in peeling.

b) Endocrine disruptors:

There is a notable expansion of people's interest in integrating into a purpose. Currents related
to socio-environmental responsibility are among the fastest-growing worldwide. The demand for
products that take into account the conservation and conscious consumption of the planet's natural
resources, as well as the human capital involved in the production chain, created consumer pressure
that led many brands to reshape themselves, create new products, and the creation of new brands that
were born with this purpose in their DNA.

Beauty brands were certainly pioneers in this movement, aiming to transform old vicious
cycles of exploitation and depredation into virtuous cycles of extraction, conservation, and awareness.
Marketing strategies followed the design precepts explored above, and various concepts were created
to differentiate themselves, such as "clean beauty," "slow beauty," "green beauty," "green wash,"
"pink wash," among many others.

The chemicals found in beauty products can be harmful throughout their life cycle, from how
they are produced/transported and used by consumers to methods of disposal and their negative
impact on the environment.

The hidden toxicity of most beauty products is a reality for most mass-produced products we
use every day - whether for personal beauty care, household cleaning, or storage like food in plastics -
loaded with a myriad of synthetic ingredients that can end up causing more harm than good.

One of the most significant consequences of exposure to accumulated toxins from artificial
skin products is hormonal imbalances, as many products contain endocrine disruptors. When
exogenous hormones can interact with our receptors anarchically, affect endogenous hormones, and
alter the biologically healthy ratio between them. There are even particles that act as synthetic
hormones and negatively affect the endocrine system, potentially altering a woman's menstrual cycle,
fertility, and even men's hormone levels (NUTRITIONFACTS.ORG, 2016).

The so-called endocrine disruptors can molecularly resemble natural estrogen so closely that
they fit into the same receptors in the body. They bind to these receptors - and endogenous hormones
have no way of performing their function as ligands, so the disruptors turn genes on and off, amplify
the negative aspects of estrogen, or travel to the nucleus of cells, where they exert a deleterious effect
on chromosomes or DNA.

Some harmful chemicals that are used in washes, exfoliants, lotions, and makeup. The most
incriminated and studied agents at the moment include parabens (used for preservation), synthetic
colors (derived from petroleum sources or coal tar), fragrances (potentially associated with allergies
and respiratory problems), toluene (which is also used to dissolve paint), and Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
or SLS (potentially related to kidney and respiratory damage). These and other substances may be
present in a seemingly simple shampoo or even in frequently ingested foods and seafood.

Applying chemicals to the skin or ingesting them can limit the skin's natural healing processes.
The immune system, eye health, and respiratory system can suffer damage from the cumulative effect
of these agents. Additionally, many of these chemicals are irritating to the skin, resulting in red, dry,
and flaky skin (NUTRITIONFACTS.ORG, 2016).

In this work, I propose to also consider the environmental aspects of our choices. Petroleum-
based oils are made from unsustainable fossil fuel. Furthermore, plastic packaging is a significant
waste; think about all those plastic bottles and jars that later need to be disposed of, many of which
are not recycled, or if they are, the recycling process itself can be even more predatory on natural
resources.

As doctors and opinion leaders, we need to be very well informed with the clarity that well-
designed scientific studies bring us to deliver to the consumer an unbiased view, embracing
innovations with critical thinking about what needs and can be improved but is limited by the lack of
necessary technology for its replacement, for other aspects, there is already innovation that better
replaces the obsolete, and ultimately, we also face games of ignorance or shallow knowledge that mix
with marketing strategies aiming to differentiate brands and their products. In this work, I propose to
identify the concepts of clean beauty and conscious beauty also described, as well as clarify
misconceptions about the definition of "organic" because once the agent is manipulated and placed in
a product for the skin, it is no longer organic, but processed.

At the same time, those who advocate for this trend claim outdated regulations in the
marketing of products that may be harmful to the population and the environment. There is a lack of
transparency about what is put into beauty product formulas, and it is legal for companies to use some
substances known to be harmful or that have never been assessed for safety (both by cutaneous
absorption and environmental contamination: air, water, food, soil, and that end up being absorbed by
the respiratory or gastrointestinal tract).

2.1 TERMS MOST USED AND THEIR DEFINITIONS

It is important to emphasize the importance of differentiating some definitions, bringing clarity

and transparency to informed decision-making and properly directing patients and institutions.

● Organic

The differentiation of organic products is based on their physical qualities, mainly resulting
from the absence of pesticides and chemical fertilizers, for example, which are more directly related
to how these products were produced. Safety standards regarding the quality of these products, which
acquire demand for products grown with organic farming methods, are practiced following the
definition of general guidelines and the description of cultural practices, technologies, and/or inputs
allowed, prohibited, or restricted in this mode of production.

IFOAM was the pioneering organization in creating a worldwide framework for organic
certification, which, in 1999, had 14 accredited agencies to issue certificates of international
recognition. Its standards provided parameters for legislation on organic products in various countries.
There are also independent certifiers that tend to operate on a local basis. To date, there is still no
system that is fully recognized worldwide and can provide the guarantee of the organic quality of
products. To facilitate commercial relations with other countries, in Brazil, our legislation was based
on the Codex Alimentarius guidelines for organic production and regulations already adopted in the
United States, the European Union, and Japan.

For decades, positioning itself as a pioneer in innovation and avant-garde practices, the state of
California has expanded and disseminated this awareness. In the US, the USDA regulates the term
"organic," which applies to agricultural products through its National Organic Program (NOP)
regulation, 7 CFR Part 205. If a cosmetic product contains 100% or 95% organic agricultural material,
it may be eligible for the USDA seal.

According to the California Organic Products Act of 2003, products sold as organic must
contain at least 70% organic matter. If the product contains less than 70% organic material, the
company can expose which ingredients are certified as organic on the ingredient list but not on the
front label.

● Natural

Natural ingredients come from natural (non-synthetic) sources. This means they can be found
in nature in the same chemical form as the ingredient in the product (e.g., fruit seed oils, clays,
essential oils). It is known that many companies call ingredients of natural or even synthetic origin
"natural" (a practice nicknamed "greenwash"!!!) Some certifiers are working to change this by clearly
defining these terms and requiring brands to obtain documentation on the origin and processing of
ingredients.

From natural or derived sources, these include plant-based, biologically based, mineral-based.
The ingredient can come from a plant or mineral but has been processed and/or combined with other
ingredients that may be synthetic (e.g., zinc oxide used as a coating or cocamidopropyl betaine from
coconut fatty acids and synthetic raw materials). Many brands label synthetic ingredients as "natural."

● Renewable and/or Sustainable

These materials are natural ingredients that do not use non-renewable resources (such as
petroleum/petrochemicals). These raw materials are abundant and biodegradable, cultivated/harvested
without pesticides, and cultivation or harvesting methods are practiced with sustainable values.
Suppliers must also implement:

-Efforts to reduce water consumption and waste production;

-Environmentally friendly extraction process for minerals;

-Renewable energy, efforts to reduce carbon emissions;

-Regenerative agriculture (improving soil health, mainly through practices that increase organic
matter);

-Transition agriculture (moving from "conventional" to organic).

● Synthetic

Synthetic ingredients are those that do not exist naturally; they are manufactured molecules.
The new molecule can come from petrochemical raw materials (oil or gas as the primary building
block) or may have come from natural raw materials but has been processed to the point of not being
considered authentically a natural derivative, plant-based, or biologically based.

● Cruelty-Free

Guarantee that products are not tested on animals. Some brands allow the sale of products with
carmine, lanolin, keratin, and beeswax in their formulas but ask their suppliers to be transparent about
animal treatment and sustainability for lanolin and keratin (from sheep) and beeswax (from bees),
avoiding Royal Jelly (from bees). Animal fats and musks must be prohibited, giving preference to
non-animal sources for all ingredients that can be derived from plants, minerals, fermentation, or
synthetics.

● Non-GMO (Genetically Modified Organisms)

The preference for non-genetically modified ingredients also aligns with sustainability
concerns. Cosmetic ingredients that come from the following crops should be observed: saccharin
beet, soy (including tocopherol), and corn (including alcohols, propanediol).
2.2 MAIN COSMETIC COMPONENTS: WHAT STUDIES SAY

Topical dermatotherapy is considered an art, signifying the science of delivering the precise
substance, in the suitable vehicle, to the exact location. It is acknowledged that, beyond the active
substance, the vehicle significantly influences the impact of various topical preparations. Significant
variations exist among diverse emollients across the spectrum from the lipid phase to the liquid phase.
Additionally, with regard to different skin areas, types, diseases, seasons, and environmental aspects,
these fundamental parameters must be considered when selecting a vehicle (RING, 2019).

The primary substances employed in cosmetic preparations with distinct functional aspects and
those frequently scrutinized for their safety and efficacy are (RING, 2019):

- Lipids (such as mineral oils)

- Solid powders (such as Titanium dioxide)
- Preservatives (like Phenoxyethanol)
- UV Filters (like Octocrylene)

Internationally recognized experts in pharmaceutical chemistry, dermatology, and allergology

strive to conduct systematic reviews and assess the available literature on these substances concerning
absorption, penetration, bioavailability, toxicity (through in vitro and in vivo studies and across
different application routes, such as oral or topical), carcinogenicity, mutagenicity, teratogenicity,
reproductive effects, endocrine disruption, and, finally, cutaneous effects like irritation, allergy, or
photoallergy (RING, 2019).

It is of particular interest to cover not only the literature published in international journals but
also the so-called "gray literature" that includes unpublished data from the industry or regulatory
health authorities.

● Mineral Oils

These substances have been in clinical use for decades, with some for over a century
(petrolatum was discovered in 1871) (RING, 2019).

There has been a growing discussion about exposure to polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons
(PAH) through the extensive migration of recycled paper or packaging materials, leading to a critical
stance regarding the use of mineral oils in cosmetics.

Mineral oil primarily consists of saturated hydrocarbons (MOSH) with a small amount of
aromatic hydrocarbons (MOAH). For pharmaceutical grade, only highly refined mineral oils are used,
and they contain undetectable levels or only traces of PAH when good manufacturing practices are
adhered to.

European safety standards are stringent, whereas regulations by the FDA in the United States
are less rigorous.

However, it is crucial to bear in mind that contaminated mineral oils also exist in Europe,
imported from countries where all aspects may not be equally respected, as is the case in some Asian
countries.

In discussions about the dangers of mineral oils, such as vaseline or paraffin, irrational
attitudes from "romantic medicine" are often excessive. In this perspective, a belief like "nature is
good" and "chemicals are bad" persists; mineral oils are considered chemicals, originating from
biological sources, with about 100 million years attesting to their presence among us (RING, 2019).

● Phenoxyethanol

Used for over 30 years as a preservative in cosmetics with antimicrobial potential (Gram + and
-), permitted in the EU at a maximum concentration of 1%, where allergic reactions are rare, and there
are no toxic effects on reproductive organs or endocrine disruptors due to its limited skin absorption.
Its potential risk is related to the exposure dose, and its use is contraindicated before the age of 3
(RING, 2019).

● Octocrylene

Used as a UV barrier in UVA and UVB sunscreens, despite recent discussions about
octocrylene's endocrine-disrupting activity, there has been no significant evidence in studies with
animals or humans. Allergic reactions are very rare. However, photoallergic reactions can occur in 4%
of adult patients tested for suspected photoallergic dermatitis. They are particularly common in
France, Belgium, Italy, and Spain, where topical ketoprofen is popular. It can be speculated that
photoallergenicity develops as a consequence of topical ketoprofen use. Allowed at a maximum
concentration of 10% (RING, 2019).

● Titanium Dioxide Nanoparticles

Titanium dioxide is a physical UV filter used as a component in many sunscreens and lip
protectors. It is also used as a food additive as an anti-caking or whitening agent. It consists of
ultrafine particles with a size of 1–150 nm in sunscreens. In studies on humans and animals, no
penetration beyond the basal epidermal layer was observed, and there is no blood absorption,
carcinogenic potential, or mutagenic potential after dermal exposure when applied at a concentration
of up to 25%. However, exposure of titanium dioxide nanoparticles to the lungs through spray
applications should be avoided, as experiments with animals have shown (RING, 2019).

● Parabens

Parabens have been used as preservatives in food, injectables, and topical preparations for
almost 10 decades. Naturally present and rapidly metabolized by skin and liver enzymes, they have an
excellent safety record. However, in the last 15 years, they have been investigated for alleged
estrogenic and antiandrogenic effects, as well as their potential in promoting carcinogenesis through
endocrine disruption. Despite methylparaben and ethylparaben having insignificant endocrine-
disrupting activity, the food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries are under pressure from
alarming media campaigns, leading them to replace parabens with other agents that cause multiple
cases of contact allergy (SASSEVILLE; ALFALAH; LACROIX, 2015).

To claim that parabens are safe for use as currently employed in the cosmetics, food, and
pharmaceutical industries, all toxicological contact points must be considered. Based on currently
available scientific information, allegations that parabens are involved in the genesis or propagation of
these controversial and significant health issues are premature. The rush to remove parabens from
consumer products may result in their replacement with less proven and potentially unsafe
alternatives, especially since compelling data support the lack of significant dermal toxicity in this
group of preservatives (FRANSWAY et al., 2019).

Comparative in vivo toxicokinetic screening studies for methylparaben, ethylparaben,

propylparaben, and butylparaben showed that all four parabens were rapidly absorbed systemically
after oral administration by gavage to rats, metabolized into p-hydroxybenzoic acid, and quickly
eliminated (parabens within an hour; p-hydroxybenzoic acid in 4-8 hours).

Consistently, the dataset demonstrates that these parabens are devoid of repeated-dose toxicity
and do not possess any developmental and reproductive toxicity (DART) or endocrine-disrupting
properties.
 For now, methyl-, ethyl-, and propylparaben are considered safe for use in cosmetics and

pharmaceutical products within the recommended dose range.

Paraben testing has revealed to varying degrees that individual paraben compounds have weak

estrogenic activity in some in vitro screening tests, such as ligand binding to the estrogen receptor,

CAT gene expression regulation, and MCF-7 cell proliferation.

Concerning estrogen as a control during in vivo studies, parabens with activity are orders of

magnitude less active than estrogen.

When assessing the likelihood that exposure to weakly active EDCs may be etiologically

associated with adverse effects due to an endocrine mode of action, it is crucial to consider the doses

and potency of such compounds compared to estrogen (PETRIC; RUŽIĆ; ŽUNTAR, 2020).

Based on these comparisons using worst-case assumptions regarding total daily exposures to

parabens and dose/potency comparisons with human and animal no observed effect levels (NOELs)

and lowest observed effect levels (LOELs) for estrogen or DES, it is biologically implausible that

parabens could increase the risk of any estrogen-mediated outcome, including effects on the male

reproductive tract or breast cancer.

An additional analysis based on the concept of a hygiene-based margin of safety (HBMOS), a

comparative approach to assessing the estrogenic activities of weakly active EDCs, demonstrates that
worst-case daily exposure to parabens would pose substantially less risk compared to naturally

occurring EDCs in the diet, such as the phytoestrogen daidzein (PETRIC; RUŽIĆ; ŽUNTAR, 2020).

In a 2004 publication, the first measurement of intact esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid

(parabens) in human breast cancer tissues suggested that their presence in the human body may

originate from topical application of body cosmetics.

The presence of intact paraben esters in human body tissues was subsequently confirmed by

independent measurements in human urine, and the ability of parabens to penetrate intact human skin,

without degradation by esterases and to be absorbed systemically, was demonstrated through studies

not only in vitro but also in vivo using healthy humans.

Through a wide variety of in vitro and in vivo assay systems, the estrogenic agonist properties

of parabens, along with their common metabolite (p-hydroxybenzoic acid), have been well-

documented, and furthermore, parabens have now also been demonstrated to possess anti-androgenic

activity, acting as sulfotransferase enzyme inhibitors and exhibiting genotoxic activity.

With the continued use of parabens in most body cosmetics, there is a need for a detailed

assessment of the potential joint and cumulative effect of parabens, along with other estrogenic and

genotoxic co-formulants in body cosmetics, being used long-term if their association with the

incidence of female breast cancer, interference with male reproductive functions, and influence on the

development of malignant melanoma, which has also recently been demonstrated to be influenced by

estrogenic stimulation.

Products containing "perfluoro" or "polyfluoro" in the ingredient list can be found in cosmetics

because of their repellent or water-resistant properties. These perfluorinated compounds (PFASs or

PFCs) are typically found in products intended to stay in place for long periods on eyelashes or lips,

but at the same time, these are the same chemical properties that make them accumulate in our bodies

and persist in our environment. (WHITEHEAD et al., 2021).

A recent study highlighted that many contaminated products do not even list these compounds

(PFAs or PFCs) in the ingredient list. Consequently, even an enlightened consumer would have no

way of knowing if the product they are using contains PFASs or PFCs when purchasing and using the

tested products.
 Furthermore, the types of products that tested positive for high levels of fluorine (and therefore

likely contain PFAS) are often used near and around the eyes and lips, such as masks and lipsticks.

The ingredients are much more easily absorbed in these areas due to the thin and delicate mucous

membranes and the proximity of the tear ducts. Additionally, women often lick their lips and,

unknowingly, end up ingesting lipstick ingredients, which is another exposure route.

This information helps us advocate for transparency in ingredients and safety regarding the

products we choose for a healthier lifestyle. Some organizations are actively lobbying for more

government oversight of cosmetics and consumer products, encouraging legislation that protects

consumers and the environment.

Many patients are being encouraged to buy brands that are transparent about their supply chain

and to ensure that ingredients and packaging are sourced sustainably and ethically from safe and

reliable sources in the long term.

Some herbal ingredients have stood out as effective and safe when used for skincare,
presenting a long list of benefits that, when used regularly, not only beautify the skin but also act
as antioxidants, enhancing the skin's resistance to ultraviolet rays and stimulating its immune
system.
3 WHERE CANNABIS MEETS SKIN CARE

There are 80 different compounds extracted from the Cannabis plant, called cannabinoids,
which interact with our endocannabinoid system, naturally activated by endogenous anandamide.

CBD does not lead to feelings of euphoria like THC, but it can be considered psychoactive as
it reduces anxiety, leaving the user less anxious and calmer. When ingested or absorbed, CBD
naturally elevates internal cannabinoids/anandamide by activating these receptors found throughout
the body.

In terms of legality, CBD comes from the cannabis sativa plant. If the plant has less than 0.3%
THC content, it is considered hemp. If it has more THC, it is considered cannabis, not hemp. This
makes a difference in terms of legality and in which state/country.

3.1 CBD AND ITS INTERACTION WITH THE SKIN

Cannabidiol is considered an adaptogen, a regulator that promotes homeostasis. If ingested as

a supplement orally or sublingually, it enters the bloodstream and can interact with receptors
throughout the body. But in topical use on the skin, it acts locally with little likelihood of having
systemic effects.

CBD appears to have anti-inflammatory properties, and therefore, it is widely used in skincare
for aspects related to inflammation, including acne, rosacea, eczema, psoriasis, and even premature
aging (SUNDA; AROWOLO, 2020).

Another potential advantage of topical CBD is its potential to act as an analgesic to reduce
skin pain. Preliminary studies also suggest that cannabis can help with skin itching, wound healing,
and even skin cancer (SUNDA; AROWOLO, 2020).

There are no major clinical trials in humans showing the safety and efficacy of these
compounds in humans. However, there are some promising animal and laboratory studies showing
potential for topical use that could benefit certain skin conditions.

Topical application on the skin of mice has shown that these molecules were able not only to
calm inflammation but also to slow down histamine production. Other studies show that they can help
repair the skin barrier, helping the skin retain moisture while preventing foreign or harmful substances
from penetrating the skin barrier.
3.2 CBD APPEARS PROMISING FOR

Acne: Studies show that it can reduce redness, inflammation, and help with sebum
production/oil control;

Itching and inflammation: Studies show that it can help prevent the release of histamine and
may be useful for eczema, insect bites, or healing wounds that itch;

Skin cancer: Studies show that it may be able to slow down the rapid, uncontrolled cell
division that leads to skin tumors and skin cancers;

Sore skin (bruises or sunburn): Preliminary studies suggest that it may even decrease the
sensation of pain in the skin.

According to current studies, CBD would be safe when used as a massage oil on intact and
healthy skin. However, the safety of its use on skin with signs of inflammation or discontinuity needs
to be proven, as ingredients are much more likely to penetrate inflamed and vulnerable skin.
Therefore, until we see some convincing clinical trials, caution is suggested in its use (BIERNAKI et
al, 2021).

Functional analysis revealed that CBD regulated pathways involved in keratinocyte

differentiation, skin development, and differentiation of epidermal cells, among other processes. The
versatile function of CBD includes improving chronic inflammation and fibrosis formation in various
types of tissue, anti-inflammatory and antifibrotic effects of CBD based on the modulation of
chemokines/cytokines associated and receptor-mediated pathways. CBD's anti-inflammatory and
antifibrotic effects based on the modulation of chemokines/cytokines are also highlighted
(BIERNAKI et al, 2021).

CBD has a regulatory impact on reactive oxygen species (ROS)-producing NADPH oxidase
(Nox) and ROS scavenging enzyme activities of superoxide dismutase (SOD). Although CBD has a
low affinity for cannabinoid receptors 1 and 2 (CB1 and CB2), activation of these receptors by other
CBD analogs and CBD on non-CBD receptors. CBD negatively regulates pro-inflammatory and pro-
fibrotic chemokines/cytokines, acting as direct or indirect agonists of equilibrative nucleoside
transporter/adenosine A2A receptors, peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor gamma receptors,
and transient receptor potential vanilloid channels, and as an antagonist of GPR55 receptors. CBD
also caused a reduction in ROS production, Nox, and an increase in ROS scavenger activity, SOD
enzyme activities. This review, therefore, recommends continued study of the molecular mechanism
of CBD in the treatment of established and emerging inflammatory and fibrosis-related diseases.

A recent study promoting oxidative stress in rat blood by UV radiation demonstrated that CBD
promoted a reduction in ROS generation and increased regulation of antioxidant capacity, increasing
the activity of glutathione reductase and thioredoxin reductase, while the level of reduced glutathione
decreased due to UV radiation. A reduction in UV-induced lipid peroxidation was also observed.

CBD, by countering the UV-induced negative regulation of 2-arachidonoylglycerol, promoted

its antioxidant/anti-inflammatory effects by reducing CB1 and increasing PPARγ receptor activation
and, consequently, negative regulation of ROS (reactive oxygen species) and TNF-α. The results
suggest that topically applied CBD on the skin minimizes redox changes not only at the skin level but
also at the systemic level.

Aloe vera has been known for centuries for its healing properties for sunburns, but did you
know that aloe vera also contains soothing ingredients that fight bacteria and inflammation? For
hundreds of years, it has been used to treat skin diseases, infections, and as a natural remedy for
burns (FEILY; NAMAZI, 2009).
Recent research results suggest that aloe vera is effective in healing burns, inflammation,
itching, detoxification, and antifungal properties in traditional Chinese medicine.

Aloe vera plants produce two substances used in medicine: the gel found in the cells in the
center of the leaf and the latex obtained from the cells just below the skin of the leaves. They can
be used as a natural remedy for skincare for burns, cold burns, psoriasis, and cold sores (FEILY;
NAMAZI, 2009).

Aloe vera is considered the most biologically active form of the Aloe barbadensis miller
species and contains over 75 potentially active ingredients, including anti-inflammatories,
vitamins, minerals, saccharides, amino acids, fatty acids, enzymes, lignin, and salicylic acids
(FEILY; NAMAZI, 2009).

● Coconut Oil

One of the most versatile ingredients for both skin and food, coconut oil boasts numerous
benefits for the skin, including strengthening the epidermis, removing dead skin cells, providing
protection against sunburn, and possessing antibacterial, antiviral, antifungal, and antioxidant
properties. Research even suggests that coconut oil is potent enough to combat chronic skin
conditions characterized by defects in the epidermal barrier function and skin inflammation, including
atopic dermatitis (AD) (EVANGELISTA, 2013).
 Coconut oil can be applied to the skin and hair to aid in cleansing, moisturizing, makeup
removal, faster wound or scar healing, and prevention of burns. When ingested as a food, it contains
antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, along with many healthy fats that help nourish the gut
and optimize immune function (EVANGELISTA, 2013).

● Melaleuca alternifolia Oil

Tea tree oil (Melaleuca alternifolia) has been used for centuries in Australia to combat rashes,
redness, and skin inflammation. Tea tree oil acts as a natural anti-inflammatory, antibacterial,
antimicrobial, and antifungal agent. Its phytochemicals make it one of the most versatile and popular
essential oils for the skin. It is generally well-tolerated compared to reactions from acne treatments
with acids, for example, when combined with a carrier oil and applied directly to the skin.

The volatile essential oils from the tea tree come from approximately 230 different plant
species, almost all native to Australia. The main active ingredients responsible for its ability to reduce
harmful bacteria include terpene hydrocarbons, monoterpenes, and sesquiterpenes. Research has
identified over 100 different chemical components and volatile hydrocarbons considered aromatic and
capable of traveling through the air, skin pores, and mucous membranes to provide anti-inflammatory
and skin-regenerating benefits.

● Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV)

Apple cider vinegar acts as a bactericide, preventing skin damage related to intestinal
problems, cleansing the skin, and aiding in acne processes, in addition to providing antifungal
properties. The use of ACV for skin problems dates back to Hippocrates (460-377 BC), considered
the "father of modern medicine," who believed in the use of ACV as an antifungal and raw honey to
clean ulcerations and treat skin wounds.

ACV contains acetic acid, potassium, and magnesium, making it a detoxifying agent when
consumed orally as it aids in liver function and balances bacteria in the intestine.

● Raw Honey

Raw honey is one of the best natural sources of nutrients, enzymes, vitamins, and acids that
stimulate the skin. The benefits of raw honey include reducing rashes, moisturizing, having antiseptic
properties, promoting healing, combating allergies or skin rashes, and aiding in scar reduction. Raw
honey is not heated, processed, or pasteurized, unlike most honey available in supermarkets.
Therefore, it can maintain all its nutrients intact as they are not destroyed by processing
(BURLANDO; CORNARA, 2013)
 As an antimicrobial, honey is particularly suitable as a dressing for wounds and burns. It has
also been included in treatments used to cure bacterial infections, dandruff, diaper dermatitis,
psoriasis, among others (BURLANDO; CORNARA, 2013).

● Sea Salt

Sea salt is loaded with minerals such as magnesium, calcium, sodium, and potassium that it
absorbs from seawater where it is produced. Many of these minerals are the same found in skin cells
and the body, which is precisely why real sea salt can help balance, protect, and restore the skin.

True Celtic or Himalayan sea salts in facial masks can be used as toners and exfoliants
associated with other ingredients to improve the skin, such as coconut oil, lavender essential oil, and
raw honey. Salt contains anti-inflammatory properties that can reduce rashes, remove dead skin cells
and irritation, balance oil production, and help the skin retain hydration levels.

● Avocado

An ultra-hydrating fatty fruit, avocado contains vitamins A, D, and E that can penetrate the
skin. It helps soothe sunburned skin, may aid in collagen production, and improve the appearance of
age spots. It also acts on reducing skin inflammation both topically and when ingested.

● Lemon Essential Oil

Due to its strong antibacterial constituents, lemon essential oil can be used to reduce acne
caused by high levels of bacteria in the pores. It is also useful for lightening scars and age spots,
exfoliating and brightening the skin, toning oily skin, and reducing the appearance of wrinkles
(FISHER; PHILLIPS, 2006).

● Argan Oil

Native to Morocco, argan oil is rich in vitamin A, vitamin E, various antioxidants, omega-6
fatty acids, and linoleic acid, gently moisturizing the skin and enhancing the shine and health of your
hair. A small amount of argan oil can be applied directly to normal skin twice a day to help treat acne,
insect bites, eczema, and psoriasis, leaving the skin hydrated and protected.

● Jojoba Oil

One of the most widely used carrier oils, jojoba oil is extremely moisturizing and can help
with burns, wounds, scars, dermatitis, acne, psoriasis, and wrinkles. Native to the southern United
States and Mexico, this oil has been used for generations to reduce baldness because it stimulates hair
shaft growth, reduces skin inflammation, and unclogs hair follicles.
 In terms of chemical structure, jojoba oil is the only one that is a polyunsaturated wax,
especially useful for protecting and providing moisture control for the skin and hair.

● Almond Oil

Almond oil has anti-inflammatory, antiviral, antibacterial, and antiseptic properties. It is an

excellent carrier for essential oils to treat rashes, acne, or dryness.

● Shea Butter

Shea butter has been used for skin care in Africa for hundreds of years, where it is still widely
cultivated and shipped worldwide. An excellent hydration option for dry skin types and effective in
reducing redness or flaking.

It can be used with essential oils such as frankincense, eucalyptus, or bergamot oil or with
lavender and peppermint oil as a homemade lip balm.

● Stearic Acid

A healthy diet, good sleep, regular exercise, and hydration, in addition to incorporating these
basic lifestyle factors into the beauty routine, certain supplements can also help improve the
effectiveness of the beauty regimen.
4 ACTIVATING THE ENDOGENOUS ANTIOXIDANT SYSTEM

Antioxidants play a crucial role in protecting the body against degradation and aging. While
various foods, herbs, and substances are highlighted as excellent aids in this task, the primary
antioxidant is Glutathione, a molecule produced in the liver (MERCOLA, 2021).

Glutathione, known as the "mother of all antioxidants," is a powerful detoxifying agent.

Processed food, pollution, toxic environments, stress, infections, and radiation deplete the body's
glutathione stores. It is a combination of three amino acids – cysteine, glycine, and glutamine. Its
composition also includes sulfur chemical groups that bind to harmful elements such as free radicals
and toxins like mercury and heavy metals to eliminate them (MERCOLA, 2021).

The main raw material that stimulates glutathione production in the body is non-denatured
Whey Protein (Milk Serum), extracted cold. It strengthens immunity precisely by amplifying
glutathione production. No "detox" diet is effective enough without a good addition of high biological
value protein. For vegans, the suggestion is to use a high-quality plant protein, such as rice or pea
protein.

Sulfur, which is part of glutathione's composition, can be found in foods like garlic, onions,
cruciferous vegetables (broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower), watercress, and arugula.

Unfortunately, taking glutathione capsules is not feasible – it would be degraded in the

digestive process. Indeed, the ideal approach is to provide the raw material and stimulate internal
production. However, there are some supplements recommended to further assist the body in this
regard: Methyl B12 Vitamin (the cyanocobalamin type is not very effective), alpha-lipoic acid,
vitamins C and E, selenium, and silymarin.

The main natural foods rich in precursors to aid in glutathione production are (MERCOLA,
2021):

● Broccoli
● Brussels Sprouts
● Cabbage
● Cauliflower
● Avocado
● Peaches
● Watermelon
● Cinnamon
 ● Cardamom
● Turmeric
● Tomatoes
● Peas
● Garlic
● Onion
● Red Pepper

Quality physical activity also stimulates glutathione production. Through exercise, the skin can
be directly benefited: the increased blood flow during exercise can enhance nutrient and oxygen flow
to the skin, nourishing it. Through this influx, it is possible not only to improve skin metabolism but
also to help reverse signs of aging already in place, through changes in hormonal patterns and
oxidative stress (MERCOLA, 2021).

Glutathione is also capable of recycling antioxidants, such as vitamin C, alpha-lipoic acid, acai
flavonoids, and various others, ensuring they are properly utilized in the detoxification cycle of toxins
and degenerative free radicals. Toxins are deactivated by glutathione, then bind to this molecule and
are subsequently carried through bile to the feces for elimination. Interestingly, organic coffee enema
(rectal implantation of organic coffee) increases glutathione production by up to 600% (MERCOLA,
2021).
4.1 PLANT-BASED DIET AND NUTRITIONAL INTAKE

Two theories about the increase in subcutaneous fat, involving spermine and the hormone
adiponectin, suggest that a plant-based diet may help combat cellulite.

Gynoid lipodystrophy, colloquially known as cellulite, basically results from excess fat
storage, where spermine and spermidine are identified as potential culprits. A study found that contact
with a molecule that captures spermine on the thighs apparently results in a significant reduction in
thigh volume, circumference, and cellulite scores.

Spermine was first discovered in human semen around 1600 but was only recently quantified
in foods. The main dietary sources of spermidine include red meat, processed meats such as ham,
turkey, bologna, and salami; green peas, and cheeses like American and cheddar.

The other cellulite theory involves the hormone adiponectin. In biopsies of fat in the gluteal
region of women with and without cellulite, there seems to be less expression of adiponectin in
cellulite-affected gluteal fat. Avoiding a drop in adiponectin levels involves not eating processed and
processed meats; a study showed that it could lead to a drop in levels within a few hours (compared to
a vegetarian meal). Furthermore, shifting to a vegetarian diet seems to increase adiponectin levels by
19 percent.

A plant-based diet, excluding meat and eggs and based on vegetables, grains, beans, fruits, and
nuts, with animal products limited to a maximum of one serving of skimmed yogurt per day, was
compared to the conventional diabetic diet. Although all study participants in both groups consumed
the same number of calories, the vegetable-heavy group lost more weight, lost more waist
circumference, lost more cholesterol, more subcutaneous fat, and more abdominal fat. Subcutaneous
fat is what makes up cellulite, so a plant-based diet could potentially reduce cellulite, but we won't
know for sure until it is directly tested experimentally.
4.2 DHEA AND ITS SYSTEMIC CONTRIBUTION TO FREE RADICAL MANAGEMENT

An optimized hormonal cascade plays a fundamental role in the mechanism supporting the

pillars of holistic body beauty. I will emphasize DHEA for its cutaneous role and antioxidant

management.

DHEA (dehydroepiandrosterone) is produced in the adrenal glands, skin, and brain, being the

most abundant steroid in the body, decreasing as we age, serving as a kind of biological marker.

Its active form, S-DHEA, is converted in the body from DHEA. It should be supplemented to

bring it to normal levels, avoiding overload, as high doses can overload receptors, preventing DHEA

from functioning efficiently.

It can help protect against the harmful effects of cortisol, offer immune support by

reorganizing out-of-control cytokines, especially the ratio between IL-6 and IL-2, and increase IGF-1.

It seems to be a good protector but is not efficient in reversing damage already caused by stress to

immune cells; however, melatonin seems to achieve this reparative potential when used in

conjunction.

DHEA inhibits G6PDH, responsible for stimulating NADPH (transforms inactive carcinogens

into active ones and increases the enzymatic production of ROS). Antioxidants like vitamins C and E

act by purifying formed ROS, while DHEA inhibits their formation by interacting with NADPH.

There is also an inverse relationship between DHEA levels and insulin levels; it seems to

protect us and even mitigate the deleterious effects of insulin (even cardiovascular and

atherosclerosis).

Studies indicate that DHEA favors greater energy expenditure for metabolic functions, while

others suggest that it prevents the formation of fatty acids to be stored in our bodies. Moreover, it

seems to reduce the craving for calorie-rich and fatty foods, controlling not only appetite but also

dietary preferences.

The function of sebaceous glands is directly related to DHEA, potentially helping to improve

skin dryness. In addition to immune improvement and reduction of free radicals, it aids in the healing

process of skin wounds and burns.

 The recommended dose is 60 to 90 mg/day orally for memory (accidental and semantic),

libido, and energy expenditure.

- SUSTAINABILITY:

Best sustainable practices help reduce the waste of natural resources and save money.

Designing and developing innovative, efficient, and environmentally friendly solutions for the health,

safety, and effectiveness of products and customer service can range from the chemicals used to their

management and storage, whether refrigerated or not.

It is suggested to introduce sustainability in the field of aesthetic medicine through the

education and involvement of scientists, clinicians, surgeons, as well as their assistants in adopting

and practicing sustainable actions in their laboratories and offices. They can become active

contributors to minimizing the environmental impact of their operations, such as minimizing waste

production, reducing energy consumption and carbon emissions, input and active producers in socio-

environmental responsibility, and selecting more sustainable chemicals or adopting chemicals or

protocols aimed at reducing or eliminating the use or generation of potentially harmful substances.
5 CONCLUSION

In this work, we have reviewed how we biologically perceive beauty and how it is linked to
our sensations of pleasure, whether in the environment or in other beings, as well as in each
individual's self-esteem. Choices and lifestyle habits are intrinsically related to the maintenance and
perpetuation of this beauty, as dietary choices, hormonal optimization, and detoxification impact the
key organs highlighted in the expression of beauty, such as skin, hair, muscles, and fat in their various
proportions. I emphasized taking an integral view of the human being in the ecosystem, seeking
harmony with the environment. We must be attentive to what is propagated by sophisticated media
strategies, grounded in scientific evidence, as opposed to marketing alarmism. Still, we should also
embrace well-founded innovations while preserving ancestral practices and legacies within the so-
called "natural" world. This should be done with the discernment permitted by science in its constant
quest for evolution.

In conclusion, critical thinking, knowledge, interdisciplinarity, and a holistic approach to being

also apply to beauty, not just to the health vs. disease dichotomy.
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