Fabric Quality Manual

QUALITY MANUAL
Ver 2.6 Marts 2023

Content page
1. INTRODUCTION .................................................................................................. 2
2. QUALITY ASSURANCE AND MANAGEMENT SYSTEMS ......................................... 4
3. BESLSELLER QC ................................................................................................... 8
4. BESTSELLER® QUALITY INSPECTIONS ................................................................ 10
5. METAL & SHARP OBJECTS ................................................................................ 13
6. WAREHOUSE MANAGEMENT ........................................................................... 20
7. CUTTING ........................................................................................................... 25
8. WORKMANSHIP ............................................................................................... 29
9. KNITTING & LINKING ........................................................................................ 34
10. TRIMMING SECTION ..................................................................................... 38
11. TRIM/ ACCESSORIES ..................................................................................... 40
12. MOLD CONTROL ........................................................................................... 48
13. PACKING REQUIREMENTS & INSTRUCTIONS ................................................ 51
14. DEFECT CATEGORIZATION ............................................................................ 54
15. SAFETY PERFORMANCE ................................................................................ 60
16. CHANGES AND ADDITIONS ........................................................................... 61
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BESTSELLER A/S & VILA A/S – Ver 2.6 Marts 2023
This quality manual applies to all apparel products purchased by This manual will be updated continuously. The latest update will
BESTSELLER® & VILA® always be available for viewing on our Supplier portal.
JACK & JONES has its own manual and is therefore not mentioned
1. Introduction in this manual.
This manual explains our quality level for delivered products and BESTSELLER has a responsibility to protect its customers from risk,
gives information about the standards the finished products should injury, or harm from the products it sells. It is essential, therefore,
be complied with. It aims to ensure that quality is built into a that all BESTSELLER products comply with the General Product
product, and not just tested into its completed state. This manual is Safety Directive (GPSD), the EU Directive 2001/95/EC of the
also meant to ensure that the products are always made through the European parliament and of the council of the general product
same procedures and under the same conditions. This manual covers safety. All our manufactures are responsible to follow BESTSELLER
both BESTSELLER® & VILA®, in places where VILA® has special product safety manual for all kind of products manufacturing at the
requirements it is explicit mentioned plant.
For NAME IT specifically, there are more detailed requirements.
This manual is intended to be used by all suppliers, to familiarize Note all the places that this has been mentioned in this document.
themselves with expectations for the delivered products. All used
materials must have the right quality level, and as a minimum, meets
our quality requirements as well as BESTSELLER®‘s Chemical
Restrictions. Suppliers have the responsibility to ensure that the
materials coming into the factory are to the standard and
specifications described in this manual.
Apart from meeting the requirements in this manual, it is expected

that all products meet the measurements given in the Purchase
Order and that the measurements are within allowances. Refer to
the ‘How to Measure Manual.’
It is expected for our manufactures to contact their buyers if the
specifications in this manual cannot be met for a given style.
Products from bulk production (all colours) may randomly be
selected and submitted for testing in accordance with our
requirements, to ensure our Quality Manual is fulfilled.
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2. Quality Assurance and Management Systems BESTSELLER® Supplier Quality Performance KPI
BESTSELLER®’s supplier quality rating system is based on data
Quality Assurance
derived from QARMA® (BESTSELLER’s quality reporting system)
Quality assurance and control should be utilized to ensure
BESTSELLER has expectations for continuous improvements and all
transparency and homogeneity of the process and the products, and
evaluations are shared with suppliers.
that the used materials are in accordance with this Quality Manual
Technical review is a technical assessment where procedures and
and BESTSELLER®’s Restricted Substances List (RSL) at all times.
basic requirements from BESTSELLER quality manual are reviewed.
To comply with our Quality Manual, manufacturers must have full
Quality inspections are either inline or final inspection of goods, all
control over the production process. This includes the awareness of
inspections used for KPIs are made in QARMA®
all materials and machinery used throughout the entire production.
It is expected that there is a correlation between the technical review
Manufacturers must ensure that all subcontractors, suppliers of
level and the results of inspections.
materials and accessories, including dye and print-houses, are fully
Technical review :
aware of the relevant requirements in this manual.
Manufacturers must ensure that all involved in the production and • Level 1 -> pass rate above 95%, OQL below 7%
production network have a clear understanding of our Quality • Level 2 -> pass rate above 90%, OQL below 9%
Manual and can assist in educating everyone involved, to secure that • Level 3 -> pass rate above 85%, OQL below 11%
they are meeting the requirements in this manual. Level 4, no expectations as remediation is needed to avoid
Manufacturers must be able to certify that they have a controlling offboarding.
system and an independent quality team. For each technical review, there will be made a correction action plan
Manufacturers have the full responsibility to use the most suitable and it is expected to have 100% of these successfully closed within
production methods adjusted to the specific style and fabric. the agreed deadline.
Manufacturers are responsible to conduct 100% quality inspections Suppliers are expected to use shared data to do root cause analysis
and root cause analysis on defects needs to be done after the 100% and corrective action plans for the top 3 defects found in QARMA®
inspection. Based on the analysis corrective measures should be Suppliers with trained AQC must have 100% of all goods inspected in
taken. QARMA®
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BESTSELLER®’s Manufacture Technical Review AQC STAR RATING PROGRAM
To ensure that the supplier’s quality control system matches with The AQC Star Rating program is a course that provides a supplier
BESTSELLER®’s requirements, a technical review will be conducted staff member/s with training, and assessments in our Quality
for all BESTSELLER® manufactures. The overall Technical Review Control and Assurance procedures.
will consist of the supplier’s Self-Technical Review and
BESTSELLER®’s technical review. AQC Star’s Responsibilities
For new and upcoming manufactures, BESTSELLER®’s technical
The responsibilities of the AQC are comparable to the BESTSLLER
review will be conducted by the local BESTSELLER® quality
QC and QA team’s, ranging from the conducting of inspections,
department at the beginning of Supplier On-Boarding. Factory
identifying quality issues, reviewing SOP’s periodically and training
Technical review rating will be decided on the final score achieved
after the audit based on below score card. factory quality teams in BESTSELLER’s standards and processes. The
attainment of the stars within the rating system will also broaden
Technical review ratings the duties to include, the evaluation of their own quality
Level 1 80% - 100% performance, performing monthly safety audits, and the analysis of
Level 2 60% - 79.99% defects, followed by the submission of improvement plans to the
Level 3 40% - 59.99%
BESTSELLER QA team.
Level 4 0% - 39.99%
AQC Star Rating 1 – Responsibilities
For manufacturers with Critical and major issues, BESTSELLER® will • Perform inline and final inspections of BESTSELLER goods
arrange a review within 3 months to check for improvement. according to BESTSELLER Standards
Suppliers with no major/critical issues will be reviewed every 9
months and for a manufacturer with minor issues, BESTSELLER®
will arrange a review within 18 months. • Perform inline and final inspections of BESTSELLER goods
Critical issues are safety issues like a metal-free zone, button pull according to BESTSELLER Standards
test, needle policy etc. For factories which after reviews still are not • Perform inline inspection on behalf of BESTSELLER
meeting the minimum requirement will be offboarded/Not • Root cause analysis
onboarded.
• Perform inline/final inspection on behalf of BESTSELLER

• Technical review self assessment
• Root cause analysis & Corrective action plan
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• Perform inline/final inspection on behalf of BESTSELLER

• Technical review
• Root cause analysis & Corrective action plan
Number of AQC’s:
The number of AQCs should be able to cover all the BESTSELLER®
inspections and all the productions in all production units.
It is the manufacturer’s responsibility that the number of AQCs is
sufficient. Supplier self-inspection needs to be conducted by
BESTSELLER® certificated AQC, and the supplier needs to inform
BESTSELLER® in 30 days advance if they planning to change AQC
due to any reasons.
For more details refer to AQC Training Manual. AQC Training
Manual explains AQC selection, Training, and evaluation in detail at
each stage.
AQC Evaluation:
Each certified AQC will be evaluated by BESTSELLER® every half
year. According to the criteria written in the AQC Training Manual.
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3. BESLSELLER QC BESTSELLER® Quality Assurance
BESTSELLER® QC will conduct random inspections on all produced To support the supplier to better understand BESTSELLER® product
styles. This will be done randomly; the standard procedure is a 14 requirements, prevent quality problems through good quality
days notification to the manufacturer before the inspection. systems, BESTSELLER® QA has been set up to assist manufacturers.
In the case of goods not being ready for inspection, the inspection BESTSELLER® QA will mainly focus on:
will be marked as ‘Failed’, and buyers will be notified that the
inspection can’t be done by BESTSELLER QC. Factory Technical Review
The request for a date change must be submitted within a minimum Before applying COC audits for a new factory, BESTSELLER® QA will
of 7 days before the expected inspection date. conduct technical reviews.
For reinspection changes, participants must be informed within a
minimum of 3 days before the expected reinspection date. Follow
Styles are expected to be produced at the manufacturer’s location brand
requested
which has been mentioned on the purchase orders. In the case a QC
AQL level
finds that goods are not made at the location mentioned on the order Work for Fedback
sheets, the inspection will be rejected, and BESTSELLER Responsible together inspection BSQC
with finding to
Sourcing will be informed.
supplier to DK/CM
improve timely
• Conduct final inspection
Order QTY <
• >80% bulk products packed
2000pcs • Rest of products in packing
Training to AQC and Manufacture

• Conduct inline inspection BESTSELLER® QA will work closely with the supplier’s AQC,
Order QTY 2000pcs ~ • 10% ~ 30% products sewing
10,000pcs • Final inspection is a plus if BESTSELLER®
Production responsible and merchandisers to ensure that they can
QC foresee risk in product conform with BESTSELLER® requirements.
• Both inline & final inspection
Order QTY • Inline inspection: as early as possible (10% - Product Risk Review at Developing/Sample Stage
30% bulk producst in sewing)
>10,000pcs • Final inspection: around 80% bulk products
Suppliers are responsible to conduct the risk analysis meeting for
packed: rest of products in packing each and every style and maintain the records.
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sampling inspection, can be considered satisfactory as a process
Random Quality Checking for Bulk Products average.
BESTSELLER® QA will randomly check the quality of bulk products BESTSELLER® follows the AQL 2.5 standard with both AQL 2.5 for
when big programs, high risk products are running or for styles that major and minor. Any critical issues found will always result in a
big quality issues have been found. rejection of the shipments.
AQL inspection standard 2.5 AQL normal level
Claimed Case Sharing and Statistics Major /Minor defects
To improve quality, BESTSELLER® QA will share statistical quality Order / Lot size Sample size Accept Reject
issues found at inspections and what has been recorded at 91-150 20 1 2
BESTSELLER and & VILA® IT solutions BESTSELLER® QA will be 151-280 32 2 3
involved with statistics of each manufacturer’s quarterly quality
281 – 500 50 3 4
performance.
501 – 1.200 80 5 6
1.201 – 3.200 125 7 8
Quality Inspection
3.201 – 10.000 200 10 11
Manufacturers must ensure that their own qualified QC conducts
10.001 – 35.000 315 ** 14 15
Pre-production meetings, align quality inspection, and provide final
quality inspections for each running purchase order that has been 35.001 – 150.000 500 ** 21 22
produced for BESTSELLER® brands. 150.001 – 500.000 800 ** 21 22
BESTSELLER® as its own QC/QA which will follow up on production, 500.001 & over 1250 ** 21 22
** BESTSELLER QC can amend this to a right number. For AQC the above table must be
and orders placed by the team must have access to follow orders at
followed
the factories where these are produced.
It is expected that suppliers informed where goods were produced, if
it was produced in another location than at purchase order, then it is
a breach of BESTSELLER guidelines. so, it is uttermost important
that the factory on the purchase order and where it is produced, is
the same.
AQL Level and Inspection Standard

The Acceptable Quality Level (AQL) determines the maximum
amount of admitted defective units in a sample. AQL, for purposes of
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4. BESTSELLER® Quality Inspections • Sealed sample with comments – see requirements for sealed
sample in section for sealed sample
In Line inspection
Inspections will be done when 10-30% of the products are finished. In- • Trim card for the style must be available in all colour
line inspection will catch any mistakes in stitching, seams, pressing or combinations
label selection and placement as early as possible. • Inspection rooms with accurate space and lightning
Based on AQL standard samples are randomly picked from different • Updated purchase orders
operation stages (sewing, trimming, finishing, packing etc.) and check • Latest and approved measurement cards
for fabric, style, seam quality, workmanship, print, garment labels, • Ensure orders full production plan available
size, packaging way and material.
Final Inspections
To avoid creating delays, inspection will start after all products are
finished and 80-100% of the shipment quantity is packed for
shipment.
This inspection must confirm and ensure that the garment has the
right appearance and is finished properly and that all packing (labels,
hangtag etc.) are applied correctly.
The QC should have the option to pick any cartons randomly. Seal to be used at sealed sample
Preparation Requirements for Sealed sample

When the QC starts the inspection, it is expected that the supplier has • Correct bulk fabric, according to quality manual and given
the following ready: information on the purchase order
• Only samples that approved for production can be sealed
• Minutes of meeting from pre-production meeting samples
• Bulk fabric and lot approvals • Correct colour according to request on the purchase order
• Bulk fabric pass test report • Shade band required for indigo and garment over dye
• Ensure the production size set reviewed and comments • Correct print, print quality, placement, size and design acc. to
available purchase order
• Shade bands in denim or overdyed programs • Correct trim and accessories from recommended or tested
• Embroidery / Print approval manufacturer acc. to purchase order
• Embroidery / Print testing approval
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• Correct care label, neck label, size label and hangtag quality
and placement according to requirements
• Workmanship according to this manual Measurement Control Procedure
• Correct fitting according to given measurement chart for To secure that the number of garments measured, represent the
purchase order general condition of the order, the specific requirements of each
• Marked with a BESTSELLER sealed sample tag brand must be followed strictly. BESTSELLER introduced Special
inspection Level (sample size) S2 and AQL 2.5. Assumed average
colour / size wise qty 151 – 500 pcs.
Flow for what can be a sealed sample
• Number of samples to be selected - 5 pcs from colour / size
• Each garment should be measured for full measurements.
• All measurements should be recorded in the measurement
report
• If one or more measurement points are out of tolerance within
a product, that product count as one faulty product.
• Another 5 pcs to be measured for Key measurement point only
if single garment failed due the out of tolerance key
measurement point.
It is important that you clarify with the buyer which sample is • The particular size can be accepted if there is no further failure
confirmed as a sealed sample before starting production – this will be from the 2nd set of 5 pcs.
added in the given order sheet when the sample is confirmed as
sealed sample.
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5. Metal & Sharp Objects Importance of Metal and Sharp Object Control in the Production
Process?
BESTSELLER® are committed to providing safe and high-quality
BESTSELLER® are obligated to provide safe and quality products to
products for our customers. To achieve this promise, defining our
its consumers.
policy document for Metal and Sharp Objects Control is essential.
As per EU laws, unsafe products sold in stores could result in legal
This is to prevent any chances of metal contamination which may
issues and the withdrawal of products.
cause health and safety issues for our valued customer.
The use of metal objects such as needles, snippers, trimmers, tag
The Broken Needle and Sharp Object control is a mandatory
guns, scissors and other tools for sewing, cutting and trimming pose
requirement of all BESTSELLER® suppliers who manufacture
a risk of contaminating our products. Any such contamination that
products, which are supplied to BESTSELLER® and VILA®, which at
poses a risk to our consumers’ safety is unacceptable.
any stage during the manufacturing process, has used needles, pins,
clips, or any sharp metal objects like scissors, trimmers, nails, screws,
Consequences of Poor Metal Control
or any item that may cause injury if left in the product knowingly or
There can be serious injuries resulting from metal contamination
unknowingly.
which can range from scratches and cuts to fatal injuries if
The supplier is responsible for ensuring that all necessary fragments are swallowed by children. BESTSELLER® expects full
precautionary measures have been taken during the production commitment from all our suppliers to implement effective measures
process to keep the risk to our customer as low as possible. for metal control in all manufacturing sites which are used for our
In the event the Supplier is not the manufacturer, the Supplier will production and the maintaining of these processes to the highest
be provided with a copy of this policy and will need to provide an standards with constant monitoring and effective training regularly.
undertaking in writing, to ensure that the manufacturer of any This guide for safe working practices and procedures for metal
products, supplied to BESTSELLER®, complies with the requirements control is aimed at eliminating the risk of metal contamination.
of the Broken Needle and Sharp Objects control policy.
This policy covers: Metal Control
Having an effective metal control policy requires a set of well-
Metal and sharp object control.
defined metal control systems and a diligent control staff for it to be
Steps for Metal and sharp object control.
established and implemented successfully.
Current measures and the expectations of BESTSELLER® and VILA®.
A nominated, responsible person, who may be the product safety
officer or product safety in charge, of the manufacturing facility: The
person in charge will take complete responsibility for controlling and
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monitoring issue and receive records of all the metal tools and sharp • An Airport system of a ‘metal-free zone’ must be applied to all
objects including sewing needle. production areas.
An effective replacement process for broken and damaged/ blunt
needles: There should be a clearly documented process which will Metal and Sharp objects Control Procedure
cover all the steps of replacement of broken and damaged needles in This section will give various procedures for a variety of situations
the manufacturing site. involving sewing needles, hand needles, fabric and board pins, clips,
Control of metal tools and sharp metal objects used in the trimmers, snippers, scissors and Kimball needles.
production process: There should be a clearly documented process
that always covers all other areas of risk of metal contamination in Sewing Needle and Hand Needles
the manufacturing site and their effective traceability. It’s required that manufactures have a robust and tightly controlled
Metal detection procedure: There should be a clearly documented needle storage, issue, use, return and disposal system. All processes
process for the method of detecting metal contamination. that require the use of needles must be tightly controlled with a zero-
The Training of all relevant employees: All workers in the tolerance policy on possible lapses.
manufacturing unit must be properly trained for the metal control A designated person, must be fully responsible for allocating,
policy to be effective. All new staff must be trained in metal control controlling and monitoring, issue and receipt records of all the new
procedures. It must be a part of the Executive Induction and blunt(used) needles of the sewing machines, as and when
Training Program. required.
Management support and constant policing of the procedures: An
effective metal control policy requires constant monitoring and The product safety representative will be responsible for safe
checking. This can be done in several ways: keeping, distributing and accounting for all needle allocations.
• Cleaning staff must report any sharp metal pieces found Will need to secure all the pieces of the broken needle into a broken
needle record book recording details of the incident including the
during cleaning.
• There must be regular checks of the production areas on date, time, location, machine, machine operator, the machine number
floors, work surfaces and drawers. and action taken in response to the breakage.
• There must be regular checks of record sheets for any In the case of a blunt needle, the findings are to be recorded, the
inconsistencies. details marked against the secured blunt needle.
In an event where the broken needle part has not been found,
• There must be periodical assessments to review the whole
supervisor will ensure that all production in the affected area is
process.
quarantined until such time, as all pieces of damaged needles has
• Metal control policies must be made mandatory within the
been located and secured.
suppliers’ own internal policy document.
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The product safety representative issues a replacement needle if
(and only if) they have recovered all the pieces of the damaged
needle.
Needle Control
This needle control policy document covers the strict control of all
needles to ensure that the only ones in use are for the manufacturing
process and that the disposal of all worn or broken needles is carried
out by authorized personnel.
The machine operator is provided with needles only for the current
use. No extra needles are provided.
New needles must be kept in a locked location only to be accessed by
trained, authorized personnel.
Damaged or Blunt Needle Replacement

Needles which are blunt or damaged, but not broken, are to be
Broken Needles
collected and a new needle must be issued by
The machine operator will immediately stop the operation when the
the authorized personnel. Old needles are to be secured
needle of the machine breaks and brings the matter to the attention
and recorded in a blunt needle register and must be kept in a secure
of the product safety representative.
location.
The product safety representative will take immediate action to
The number of blunt or damaged needles should be counted
ensure all the needle pieces are located and checked against a whole
and reconciled to update the issue receiving records in the Needle
needle to make sure all the pieces have been found.
Control - Log Sheet.
A new needle may only be issued when it is confirmed that all the
needle pieces have been found. If all needle pieces cannot
be found, then the product being worked on and any other work
within a 3-meter proximity must be placed into a bag or box and
taken to the isolation area for further inspection.
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The workplace must be checked with a hand-held metal detector or Sample Room
magnet before work restarts. The hand-held detector must be Needle procedures must be implemented in sample rooms too. All
calibrated and operated correctly, using the 1.0 mm test piece before the samples must be metal detected prior to send to DENMARK.
being used.
Check for the missing needle pieces in the isolation area. If all the Hand Sewing Needle Control
The issuing of hand sewing needles is just as important as control of
pieces are found log in the Needle Exchange Sheet as usual. If not
machine needles.
found, the products must be placed in a polythene bag and deposited
Hand sewing needles are to be issued to workers as necessary and
in the secure reject box ready for disposal later with all the
logged in a record book. At the end of the work session, or day, the
style information’s duly recorded on the garment for future
issued hand needles must be returned and accounted for (this should
reference.
include lunch breaks etc.). The purpose for which the hand needle
The product safety representative must also complete an
issued must also be recorded.
investigation report into the incident recording full details using
the ‘Missing Needle Part Investigation Report sheet.
Metal Tools and Trims
When the workplace is confirmed as clear, a new needle can then be This section covers some metal items in a production environment
issued – the policy must be ‘Issue against Receipt.’
that are a potential safety risk. This is not a comprehensive list as
Record sheets should be kept for a minimum of one year.
there may be specialist equipment that is not covered in this
document.
Machine Maintenance
Ensure that a risk assessment of the working environment is carried
Machine operators must remove all needles from the area in and
out and that essential controls are put in place that covers all
around machines. Machines that are not in use must also be cleared
potential problem areas or processes.
of needles and marked as ‘Not in Use’.
Embroidery Scissors, Knives and Cutting Blades

Machine embroidery embellishment must be controlled in the same Knives, blades, scissors and snips can be used in every area of the
way as main production processes, whether within the factory from cutting rooms to warehouses and must be controlled.
manufacturing facility or at an authorized sub-contracted specialist Scissors of all sizes are used in many sections of a factory, so they
unit. Ensure the same procedure is applied and regularly monitored. need to be used responsibly.
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Small scissors and trimmers/ snippers must be securely attached Kimball Guns
to workstations – this applies to all areas including cutting, sewing, Kimball gun needles need to be controlled and disposed of in the
inspection, pressing, warehouse, etc. same way as worn and broken sewing machine needles.
Large scissors in the cutting room and sample room are to be
numbered and stored in a secure cupboard at the end of each Metal Detection
Metal detection is part of the Metal tool and Sharp Objects Control
working day. The supervisor responsible for scissors must check that
Policy and must not be viewed as a separate policy document or used
all issued sharp metal objects have been returned and recorded.
as a replacement for an effective Metal tool and Sharp Objects
Cutting room needles (for block cutting/ plaids matching) and
Control Policy.
scissors, must be issued and collected at the beginning and end of
After the work is done by the product safety representatives during
each day. Straight knives must be stored in a secure
the production process and pressing it is important to do a final
location (preferably in a box marked as storage for Straight knives or
safety check to ensure no metal contamination has happened during
Sharp object storage box) after use each day and the return of the
production as a possible lapse.
straight knife machine must be recorded like all other sharp objects.
All apparel, accessories and footwear must pass successfully through
All new and used cutting blades for band knives and straight knives
a metal detection process before being packed into cartons and
must be labelled and kept in a locked cupboard with access only by
supplied to BESTSELLER® and VILA®
the cutting room supervisor or product safety officer/
For deliveries to BESTSELLER ® or Vila ® metal detector and a metal
representative.
free zone is mandatory before any orders can be placed
Records must be kept of new blades in stock, issued blades and
returned blades so that every blade is accounted for.
The Metal Detector
Under no circumstances can old blades be turned into knives for use
When in use, the metal detector should include the following
in the production area.
features:
Old blades must be disposed of responsibly on a regular basis.
Where knives are needed to open containers, these should have an The conveyor automatically stops and sounds an alarm when metal
is detected.
auto retractable blade, which must be numbered and stored at the
The metal detector can detect ferrous metal of 1.0 mm.
end of each day in a secure cupboard. The supervisor responsible for
knives/blades etc. must check that all have been returned.
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Airport System of Metal detection and Control
An effective Metal Detection control ensures that the goods are
moved via an airport style metal detection system into a Metal Free
Zone. This area should be completely secure and be accessed only by
the approved staff. This is to ensure that no metal contamination
happens after it has been checked.
The machine must be situated away from other sources with
magnetic fields such as clutch brake mechanisms in sewing
machines and ceiling fans. The position of the detector must allow a
direct flow of all products through the machine so that no garments
miss this important checking stages.
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6. Warehouse Management Receiving and Inspection of Fabric
At BESTSELLER ® and VILA ® we expect that our products are To ensure the required quality level in the finished products, we
require that the garment manufacture perform fabric inspection in
handled with greatest care, from trim, yarn fabrics and finished
accordance with American 4-point system, before production cutting.
goods.
We therefore expect all manufactures at all levels to have a proper
General Inspection Procedures
inventory and warehouse management system. It is expected that
manufactures have standard procedures for receiving • Fabric inspection must be performed in a suitable
release/dispatch and management of warehouse bins. environment with enough ventilation and proper lighting.
In general, all warehouse areas are expected to have limited clutter in • Fabric Inspection light source D65.
the areas. Only a few unneeded items can be found in the • Fabric inspection angles must be between 45-60 degree to
warehouses, and required equipment is available and in ‘ready to go’ • Inspector.
condition. 1 week or more of regularly required supplies are in the • Fabric speed on inspection machine must not be more than
warehouse. • 15 yards per minute.
It is expected that the warehouse is well organized. Most items have • All defects must be flagged at the fabric edge during
designated locations and are stored appropriately. Some designated inspection.
equipment storage spots are labelled. Visual control is widely used.
Warehouse and contents inside must be clean and functional.
The condition of the floor should be relatively clean and waste
containers only partially full.
There is expected to be humidity control at the warehouses to avoid
moisture and mold.
It is expected that warehouse be split into several areas which is
clearly marked:
• Quarantine – when goods received before inspection

• Inspection area
• Rejected area – marked with red
• Warehouse area – goods marked and passed inspection
• Dispatch area – area for goods leaving the warehouse
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Defect description Defect classification using Four-Point System
Size of Defect Penalty
Fabric rolls must be inspected in accordance with the Major Defect
0 - 3 inches length/width 1 Point
Description. 3 - 6 inches length/width 2 Point
6 - 9 inches length/width 3 Point
Major Defect Description More than 9 inches length/width 4 Point
Woven Knits
Slabs Slabs Point Classification

Hole/torn/floats Hole/torn/crack Our point classification is divided depending on fabric/product type.
Conspicuous yarn variation Conspicuous yarn variation Group Fabric/ Product type Max point per
individual roll
Missing ends or picks Dropped stitch
1 All fabrics for formal shirts 20 points/ 100 Square
End out or double ends Horizontal/vertical strips and dresses yards
Knots Knots 2 All basic fabrics for jeans 24 points/ 100 Square
Coarse picks Press-off All basic fabrics for bottoms yards
All basic fabrics for tops
Broken picks Barrie and dresses
Shuttle smash Bunching up All basic fabrics for outwear
Slough off Cloth fall-out All basic types of circular
knitted fabrics
Oil/dye spots Oil/dye spots
3 All types or fabrics with 28 points/ 100 Square
Fibre/yarn contamination Fibre/yarn contamination linen blends yards
Foreign fly fibres Foreign fly fibres All types of fabrics with
ramie blends
Print variations/defects Print variations/defects
Colour shadings/defects Colour shadings/defects
The Quality Inspector may include any other defects which he feels are of a major category Point calculation for an individual roll:
Total points for the roll x 3600

𝑃𝑜𝑖𝑛𝑡𝑠 /100 𝑠𝑞𝑢𝑎𝑟𝑒 𝑦𝑎𝑟𝑑𝑠 =
Inspected yards x cuttable fabric width (inch)
Defect Classification
More than the above specified maximum points per 100 Square
A maximum of four points is charged to one linear yard.
yards are considered second grade and will not be accepted.
The length of the defect is used to determine the penalty point.
Fabric Inspection Plan
No more than four penalty points may be given for any single defect.
Our inspection plan lists the minimum fabric quantity, which must
Defect classification using the Four-Point System
be inspected for production.
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BESTSELLER Inspection Plan Receiving and Inspection of Trim and Accessories
For trim and accessories, it is expected that goods are checked
Lot/batch size yards Inspection quantity in percent according to AQL standards.
0-2.500 yards Min. 20% Before goods are handed over to the warehouse, it must have been
>2.500 yards Min 10%
inspected.
General Inspection Procedures
Along with the inspection of the fabric, it is also expected that
Inspection must be performed in a suitable environment with
manufactures do the following:
enough ventilation and proper lighting.
Shade Segregation: pieces of fabrics from all rolls are cut and made
The inspection light source should be D65. Inspection area lighting
into a blanket to segregate shades. Prepare shade
level should be min 1000Lux.
wise colour continuity and issue to the production line.
The inspection must happen according to the approved trim card.
Shrinkage Test: 10% of a roll will be selected for shrinkage test. Piece
Inspect general quality/ functionality/ size & grading/ metal
of fabric cut from each roll at 50cm ×50cm and sends for shrinkage
detection. pre-shrunk elastic/ datasheet when needed.
test. Shrinkage test report must be shared with all relevant
10% Metal detection to be followed for the trim inspection. If the
departments.
products with multiple metal trims, then auditor must check
Spirality Test : Fabric spirality naturally occurs in mainly in circular
whether all the multiple trims can be passed under 1mm metal
knitted fabrics and found in woven fabrics as well. This can affect
detector calibration. In case any of the trims can not be passed thru
the appearance of finished garments. This test methods sets out the
metal detector then supplier first need to get the explanation from
steps to check the amount of spirality so that decisions can be made
trims supplier and secondly inform to local bestseller office and
before cutting. Refer to the BESTSELLER material manual for the
relevant buyer.
specification in fabric form and BESTSELLER physical test manual
All the trims including labels, trim fabrics, buttons, draw cords and
for the specification in garment from.
etc need to be attached to the white cloth and wash as per the care
Skewness & Bowing Test: These checks are intended to check that
label to assure no colour bleeding.
bowing and skewing of fabric falls within acceptable tolerances and
Make a visual colour evaluation in the light box against
that any problems are identified before fabric is issued to cutting.
standard/ bulk fabric.
Bowing and skewing are natural occurrences within both woven and
knitted fabrics. Minor bowing and skewing are acceptable; this All defects must be marked and removed before passing to warehouse
procedure is intended to identify when these effects are excessive. Requirements for trim card:
Refer to the material test manual for the methods & specification. • Made from bulk fabric/yarn
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• Made in correct colours with all correct trims and labels After fabric and trim etc. are released from inspection area, garments
are expected to be placed in a dedicated warehouse, where there all
Yarn Inspection
entries, moves and exit of articles are noted. At any time, a
Supplier must have a method for yarn inspection, representing
manufacturer is expected to have an overview of:
all colours and dye lots within a colour. The yarn must be visually
and technically inspected according to BESTSELLER® order Stock balance incl. all input and out puts
requests. • Entry date on stock
The Supplier must have a system/ method to secure that the yarn • Expected release date
meets the agreed quality standards and is what the buyer has agreed Fabric is expected to be stored above ground level and protected
to buy. This can be done by internal/ external testing or by another from theft, loss, and deterioration of quality. This means that fabric
method to secure the yarn source. must be protected from sunlight, moisture or anything that can
Recommended tests heavy knit/ socks: affect the quality of the product.
Yarn count It is expected that there is a standard procedure for non-moving
Each lot: Yarn colour, evenness and elasticity (if contains elastane) fabric that it will be removed from available stock.
Knit panel, check the colour, evenness and elasticity (if contains For Trim, it is expected that goods are stored on marked and
elastane) after production wash procedure each colour: Pilling numbered shelves. There can at any time be shown a balance for
Knit panel, check the hand feel and do the pilling test after each stock location. For thread returned from production, it is
production wash procedure expected that there is a standard procedure for return to stock. All
Check shrinkage, staining and twisting trim and accessories must be protected from sun and moisture to
avoid deterioration of the quality.
Final goods warehouse must be in an environment that does not
deteriorate the quality in any way. Cartons must be stored above
floor level to avoid deterioration. Cartons must not be stored against
a wall to avoid moisture problems. Warehouse moisture control is a
must and records should be stored.
Warehouse Management System
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Dispatch of items from the Warehouse
Goods that are outbound from the warehouse must be in a dedicated
dispatch area. After goods have been delivered to the next step,
records should be updated. The dispatch area should be free of
clutter and goods should be marked with an expected handover date.
It is expected that the manufacturer has a well working warehouse
management system, which is a key to a quality system that will
sustain through staff changes and not depend on individuals. A
warehouse management system is a tool to successfully lead an
organization in a structured and systematic way and constantly
improve the processes in order to increase the customer satisfaction
and reach the goals of the organization. The success of a warehouse
management system is highly dependent upon the commitment
from top management.
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7. Cutting The grain line of the individual pattern pieces of the
markers must be controlled according to the material and style.
To secure a consistency in the cutting process and control
material utilization and cutting waste, BESTSELLER® and VILA®, Fabric Relaxing
recommend that all manufactures use full scale lay plans. Maximum The fabric relaxation machine and relaxation process are available
number of Layers must be adjusted to fabric type, and the layers for this process.
must be held in place during cutting. Racks are also available for relaxation.
Cutting is an irreversible process and affects the overall quality of a All relevant materials, e.g. fabrics containing elastomeric yarn, must
finished garment. The general instructions below must be followed relax unrolled and flat folded before cutting.
before commencing the procedure: Fabric relaxing records show that relaxation time is maintained (for
Preparing - Fabric knits/ stretch fabric relax > 24 hours, and other knit types >12
• General physical fabric testing, including shrinkage hours are a must).
and colour shading, is mandatory. Depending on fabric behaviour, relaxation can be needed before and
• Weaving faults and stains must be marked at the fabric after laying-up.
inspection stage. Spreading
• Defective cutting pieces should be replaced by the correct one Maintain good spreading techniques and consistently be well
from the same colour lot. equipped.
• Weaving faults and stains must be cut out and removed during Manufacturer maintains shade/lot chart and a cut plan to segregate
the cutting process. rolls of different shades/lot.
• Each fabric roll must be controlled in a winding direction (top / Shade bands are displayed at the workstation.
reverse fabric side). Spreading height and length are based on fabric properties, weight,
• If needed, the fabric role can be re-wound. thickness, stretch and recovery, as well as pattern and design.
• The material must be checked regarding the colour shadings Spreading recommendations:
within the roll. • heavy weight fabric (above 250 gms) < 20 cm’s,
Preparing - Marker • medium weight fabric (125-249 gms) <12 cm’s
A verified paper pattern must be placed properly. • light weight fabric (<125 gms) 7-10 cm’s
The markers must be checked, and the individual pattern pieces End bits and leftovers of the spread rolls are kept properly with
must not overlap each other. records.
The markers must not reach into the selvedge area.
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The direction of fabric surface should be correct and always be in the Safety precautions (e.g. wearing safety gloves) shall always be
same direction (e.g. for velvet, corduroy and other piled fabrics) Ply respected.
alignment (length and width) and tension (stretch, slack edge) Layers Cutting must be performed equally and accurately along the
shall be completely relaxed. outline.
Layer heights must be free of warps and edges and must be placed in Deviations and displacements of pattern pieces of upper and lower
the correct grain line. layers are unacceptable.
Cutting spreads only one shade at a time and if required uses Marks inside a pattern piece must be transferred to all relevant
separators during spreading. pieces.
Spreading fabric with Checks, Stripes, Patterns, etc. The cutting area must be well organized and clean.
Documented spreading methodology are available. There should be no unnecessary piles of cutting waste anywhere on
The grain line depends on the style and must be chosen the floor.
corresponding to the style or the fabric. Numbering and Bundling
Checks and stripes must be dressed and if necessary, pinned or The allocation of the cut panels (numbering) must be kept within one
manually cut. layer to avoid different colour shadings in the finished garment.
Blocks are later individually hand cut to match stripes if necessary. The numbering must be affixed on invisible parts.
Spreads pattern fabric such as plaids and stripes to align, match by Placements on seam lines must be avoided.
string / light beam, height < 10cm. Particularly easily fraying materials shall be bundled carefully.
Any doubts must be clarified with the Product Development Adhesive labels or interlining residues on fabrics top side is
(PD) Random inspection exists to ensure check matching and record unacceptable.
maintained. Panel Inspection and Repairing
Cutting Standard procedure to inspect 100% panels, plus numbering, random
Cutting department receives its own approved sample and sample checks for the colour, shade and shape.
handover record maintained. Checks top, middle and bottom with pattern for cutting accuracy.
Running Samples are hanged in a visible area with a style number. Bundle tags must be maintained containing style, PO number, cut
All cutting guidelines are clearly mentioned on the approved number, size, colour, shade, bundle number and quantity.
sample. (2 way/ 1 way cutting, follow notches, defined allowances, Defective panels must be replaced with the same shade/lot fabric
face / reverse side of fabric etc.) with record.
The machinery must be well maintained and in excellent condition. Reports must be kept and reviewed.
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Panel Storage For this we request a test report from the interlining supplier in
Bulky cut goods with bundle control tickets should be clean and advance.
stored orderly. Cutting of Interlinings
Light bundle string should be used for light colour.
• Placed interlining pieces must be cut 2-3 mm smaller all-
Incoming and outgoing material record are kept.
around than the shell fabric to avoid a conglutination of the
Fusing machine and in order to not contaminate the following goods.
Before fusing, the following general instructions regarding process
• If an overall fusing is used, a rough cutting (2-3 mm smaller
steps must be followed: interlining than to fuse fabric area) must be done first, a fine
• The cutting area, tray areas and setting machines must be cut shall be done at the end.
kept clean, no lining residues should be on the conveyer. • For reinforced or slit interlinings as well as other special
• The machinery must be well maintained and in excellent interlinings, the grain line of the fabric and interlining must be
condition: Temperature, pressure need to be checked daily taken under consideration and modified if needed.
and adjusted accordingly. Fusing Process
• Safety precautions (e.g. hoop guard) should always be A proper placement (correct and without pleats) of the interlining
respected. shell fabric must be guaranteed. Correct fabric side must be
Interlining fused. Setting- and crabbing machines must be checked during the
Preparation process and in compliance with all parameters.
Interlining should be chosen according to:
• Requirements / functionality of the respective shell fabric Post Processing / Finish Control
• Durability of the respective shell fabric Adequate cooling time must be respected. The sequence of the layer
• Shell fabric elasticity in the weft or shell fabric elasticity in batch cannot be changed during control. Ensure accurate piling of
small cutting pieces before they will fine cut, keep the piles small
the warp
• Information in the tech-pack and on the pattern
• Dry cleaning- and garment washing conditions
• For transparent fabrics, a suitable interlining colour must be
chosen. The optimized pressure and temperature and setting
time must be determined with tests before the production
process starts.
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8. Workmanship responsible to assess the risk and communicate with the buyer for
alternative methods.
In General, all products must be manufactured in accordance with
Loose threads must not appear on the finished garment.
EU directive 2001/95/EC general product safety and in accordance
All small parts on the garment which are in pairs, such as pockets,
with the below descriptions and requirements. Suppliers are not
straps etc. must be symmetrical to each other (unless otherwise
allowed to make any changes without approval from the relevant
specified for specific styles)
buyer.
The finished garment must meet the required measurements given
General Finish in the measurement chart. Refer to BESTSELLER® manuals in BI2
measured information how the garments are measured. Note for
Fabrics with faults must not be used to make up the garments. JACK & JONES there are instructions for how to measure on the
Faults refer to holes and knots, broken or missing picks and ends, JACK & JONES sourcing site
spots/stains from oil, dye streak etc.
All garments must be manufactured with machinery that is in good Colours and Tolerances
condition, and the machines must be correctly adjusted to the All fabric and trim colours must be approved by the brand to which
specific type of fabric. the orders are related.
Sewing machines must be correctly adjusted to avoid slack or tight We expect the fabric colour and shade variations to be controlled
stitches (balanced tension). using a spectrophotometer (this does not cover overdyed or washed
Fabric or knit must not be damaged during sewing because of the use products, where some variations are expected).
of too coarse or damaged needles. Before cutting all fabrics must be controlled for colour and shade
All garments must be free from pressure marks and iron shine. variations in accordance with AQL level 2.5.
The finished garment must be free from stains, soiling, holes, flaws For NOOS and repeat orders we expect the fabric colour and shade
and chalk marks. variations to be controlled using a spectrophotometer (this does not
Magic Pen are not allowed to be used in any of BESTSELLER cover over dyed or washed products, where some
products. BESTSELLER 100% banned magic pen to be used for any variations are expected).
kind of marking on BESTSELLER products such as pocket placement Before shipment, the complete order must be visually inspected
marking, button position marking, Darts and etc. Instead, factories for colour and shade variations under a proper lighting source. A
can use Drill holes, laser guide, Wax pen and Chalk for marking. it is comparison must be in accordance with former deliveries.
the suppliers’ responsibility to ensure that any of the manufacturing Colour difference from a production batch to production batch must
processes are not using Magic pen. max.be Delta E 1, 2 in same measurement area.
BESTSELLER does not recommend using safety pins for packaging. All visual colour evaluations and approvals must be carried out by
If any buyer request to use safety pins for packaging, then supplier is using light source D65.
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Seam and Stitch Construction Product type SPI Lock and chain SPI Overlock stich SPI Cover stitch
stitch
Seam width/allowance must be adjusted to the product type and Denim and non-denim 9-10 12-13 -
production equipment. jeans and jackets
• All stitching must be securely fastened at the start and endpoints. Pants, chinos and 9-10 12-13 -
shorts
• Sewing lines must be straight and run evenly along the seam
Shirts, dresses and 10-14 12-13 -
• There must not be any of the below mentioned stitching issues on skirts
the finished garments. Outerwear 11-12 13-14 -
• Thread breakages (broken stitch). Leather Products 8-10

• Skipped Stitches. Tailoring 11-12 12-13 -
• Irregular or wavy Stitches. Tee, tops and polos 11-12 12-13 11-12
• Untidy joint stitches Sweats 10-11 12-13 11-12
• Mending or repairs on top stitching Trunks - 12-13 13-14

Stich Type SPI
• Visible needle holes after sewing corrections
• Seams in elasticated fabrics (fabric with elastomeric fibres) must Blind stitch 5-6
be able to stretch without breaking the thread. Flatlock 13-14
• All seams must be smooth and flat (unless required otherwise for
the style) Higher stitch density is required for tight fitting styles and underwear
• Hem seams must be flat and even without twisting or roping in the order to prevent thread breaking and achieve seam stretch
(unless required) ability
• Maximum seam puckering/smoothness in the finished garment, in Bar tack must be sewn with a mass which isn’t too dense or loose.
accordance with ISO 7770 (1-5 scale); (unless required) The bar tacks must not damage the fabric/knit because of its density.
• After 1x washing cycle: min. 4 Bartack needed for special effects/looks can vary in density,
• After 5x washing cycle: min. 3-4 information will then be given in each style.
General Guidelines for Stitch Density

Below are general guidelines for the stitch density for assembly. Stitch
density must be adjusted to each product based on styling and fabric.
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Seam Properties and Requirements • The embroidery must lay flat, and the float yarns must not result
The seams in the finished garments must have a strength and in pulling.
tendency to resist slippage which is enough, in accordance with the • The density of the stitching must not give any damage on the
used fabric and the fitting of the garment. fabric or any unacceptable puckering in fabric
Seam strength ISO 13935-2 • Smock effect must be sewn on smock machines and must not be
Light and open fabrics (below 120g/m2): min. 80N conducted manually.
Heavy and dense fabrics (above 120g/m2): min. 100N • The elastic thread used for smock effects must be compatible with
Fabrics used for pants, jeans and trousers: min. 150N the fabric and should be pre- shrunk to avoid any excess or
Seam Slippage ISO 13936-2 variable shrinkage.
Fabrics <150g/m2 and/or loose fit garments, 6mm opening @ force of min. 60N
• There must not be any wrinkles or uneven / skip stitches in the
Fabrics 151 - 249g/m and/or tight fit garments,
2
6mm opening @ force of min. 80N
smock stitches.
Fabrics ≥200g/m2 and/or tight fit garments, 6mm opening @ force of min. 100N
• Embroidery, pearls, sequins, and smock effects must be securely
tacked, and properly trimmed.
Buttonholes
The embroidery should not have any linked or connecting threads on
• Must be adjusted to the used button (large enough to allow button the front side of the embroidery. The embroidery design should be in
to pass through easily and yet small enough to hold garments such a way that the linking threads should be a minimum.
closed) Refer to BESTSELLER Product safety manual and NAME IT Safety
• Must be securely tacked at ends Requirements regarding Small Parts.
• Must have full edge cover with no fraying Thread Ends
• Must be properly trimmed
• Thread must be intact throughout the buttonhole • The finished garment must be cleaned from long seam thread-
ends, max. length of thread-ends 0,2 cm
Refer to NAME IT Safety Requirements regarding the Buttonhole and • Loose threads must not appear on the finished garment.
buttons attachment for NAME IT products. • Thread ends longer than 1cm (on the front) and 2 cm (at the back
or reverse side) will be considered a major defect.
Embroidery, Pearls, Sequins, and Smock Effects
Refer to the BESTSELLER product safety manual and NAME IT Safety
• If an embroidery is applied on the garment, it must always have an Requirements regarding Sewing thread/Float stitching.
interlining at the back.
• The interlining must be compatible with the fabric and must not
be too stiff or too light.
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Minimum Neck stretch
Factory Quality team need to ensure the minimum neck stretch are
achieved for all Production. It is required to check the minimum neck
stretch 100% before packing.
Below is the general neck stretch requirement for the deferent size
range. Refer to the measurement card for size wise exact
measurements
• 27 cm for sizes 9 months to 2 years,
• 28 cm for sizes 2 to 9 years,
• 30 cm for sizes 9 to 14 years).
• 33 cm for above 14 years.
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9. Knitting & Linking • Approve sample with detailed approval document
This part includes knitting panel inspection and the repairing of re • Approved lot swatch
• Knitting chart
knitted defective panels. The general instructions below should be
• Digital/ manual weight scale
followed.
• Measurement tape (calibrated)
Preparing
• Fault marking stickers (arrow)
General physical yarn testing, including shrinkage and colour • 100Fc or above lighting arrangement
shading, is mandatory. Raw material must be prepared and • An appropriate size. Height of inspection table with white
inspected. Ensure the cleanliness and proper functioning of knitting surface.
machines, panel tables, sharp toolboxes, all needles on the machine, • Reject box
machine handle cover etc. Every knitting machine must have a clear
Both pilot inline inspection and 100% panel inspection are necessary
knitting chart in the local language for the running style. The factory
for each BESTSELLER style. After completing each full bundle of
needs to ensure that multiple knitting charts are never on any
production, the operator should mark all the knitted panels with the
machine as this will cause confusion for the operator. A duplicate of
lot number and then present the bundle for 100% inspection
the approval sample must be displayed in the section for the
operators’ reference and guidance. This approved sample must be
In the 100% inspection process, panel wise weight, measurement,
displayed clearly in the local language (all details i.e. knitting chart,
shade and tension will be checked and recorded.
critical points, approval sign & seal etc).
Knitting
During 100% inspection if any defects are identified, then the
Knitted panels must be kept in a plastic box or on a tool/ table. Goods
inspector must inform the operator for immediate rectification so
on the floor is not allowed. Each knitting station should be separated
that defect goods are not passed into the next section. Measurement
from the others with plastic sheeting to reduce dark, light colour
& weight needs to be checked and a record needs to be kept
contamination from fly yarn. Never use different lots of yarn for the
accordingly.
same colour at the same time. This will avoid any shading problem.
Stitch & tension should be checked both through the traditional
After every operator has produced the 1st (each) part/panel of the
method of measuring the extension of a counted number of wales,
new style, the panels / full garments, must be given to the supervisor
and by counting with a piece glass the WPI (wales per inch) and CPI
for approval before further production.
(courses per inch). The results of both systems of check must be
Panel Inspection
recorded.
Inspection area should be equipped with:
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Root cause analysis on defects need to be done after the 100% colour/ style on the same machine at the same time. Dark and light
inspection. Based on the analysis corrective measures should be colour goods should not be issued for the same machine. Quality
taken. monitoring instructions for the supervisor during production:
Housekeeping of the inspection table must be maintained. All aisles, • Shoulder seam and the sleeve head should not be linked
firefighting equipment, emergency exit/ egress paths and emergency together.
doors of the 100% inspection area must not be blocked by any box, • Overlock seam yarn fly & cutting condition must be as per
goods carton etc. approved sample
• Piping joint or neck joint (inside)must be even
Repairing or Re-knitting defective panels • No foreign yarn or contamination within the section
If pilot panel inspection or 100% panel inspection is labelled as ‘FAIL’, • Clean &tidy housekeeping must be ensured within the section
after the inspector identified the quality problem, the goods need to • Records of product ensued & received must be maintained >
be returned to the operator for immediate rectification. After 12 months
rectifying the goods, the same inspection process will be followed. Inspection
Records of all return & reject must be kept > 12 months. The 100% inspection area should be equipped with;
• Approval sample with detail approval document
Linking • Linking technical chart
The general instruction below shall be followed. • Digital / manual weight scale
Preparing • Measurement tape (calibrated)
Ensure the cleanliness of the linkage machines, panel box and • Fault marking stickers (arrow)
machine area and table. All the linking machines must have technical • 100fc or above lighting arrangement
chart in the local language for the running style. The machine • An appropriate size/ height of inspection table with white a
settings against the linking technical chart, check the colour of the surface.
goods, type of linkage yarn, lot number and stitch need to be pre • Ok goods box and reject box.
checked. Prepare 2 boxes for each linkage operator to keep the goods
before, after linking.
Linking
The first product forms the first bundle must be checked before
further production. Different or mixed colour goods within the same
area is not acceptable. One operator should be issued only one
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Against the approved sample, the following points need to be
checked:
• Visually checking e.g. exposed yarn, uneven cutting, needle

mark etc
• Measure mending
• Linking tension
• Stitch etc
• Weight check
A root cause analysis of defects will be done after 100% inspection.
Based on the analysis, corrective measures should be taken. During
inspection all lights above the inspection table must be switched on
and 100fc or above lighting must be ensured. Housekeeping of the
inspection area must be maintained. The inspection report should be
maintained > 12 months. No sharp tool or trimming/ mending
equipment is allowed in the AQL / lot pass inspection area.
Return for Repair

During 100% inspection, if any defects are identified, then products
must be sent to the operator with the knowledge of the supervisor
for rectification. After corrective measures by the operator, the
goods will again be submitted for 100% re inspection. Re inspection
will be done as per the primary inspection method followed in 100%
linking inspection area. All the records of inspection return and re
inspection must be maintained > 12 months.
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10. Trimming section The inspection area must be well cleaned. (Housekeeping of
inspection table must be maintained). Inspection of mixed
The trimming section is the process, which needs to be used to ensure
colour/style at the same time is not acceptable.
good products are of good quality and are rectified before they are
The daily production report and inspection report should be
sent to the final stages of processing.
consistent.
Preparing
• Working tables must be clean and free of clutter and ensure
that no sharp or broken edges are on the trimming table which
could cause damage to the goods.
• All cutters & various needles must be registered.
• Operators must be trained and informed about the
commencement procedures of the new style.
• The first piece of the produced goods must be checked by the
supervisor after the operator's work.
Trimming inspection
It is required to do the trimming that;
• Sealed sample is available
• Fault marking stickers is used for defects to make visual
identification
• 100 FC or above lighting arrangement
• An appropriate size/ height of inspection table with a white
surface.
• Box there can separated approved and rejected garments
During inspection, if any defect is identified then goods must be

returned for rectification.
A daily root cause analysis must be done based on inspection. Based
on the analysis, action must be taken so that the defect is not
repeated in the future.
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11. Trim/ Accessories • Matching threads of the same shade should be used throughout,
Trim and Accessories refer to thread, interlining, buttons, rivets, unless tone or contrast thread is part of the design feature.
eyelets, shoulder seam tape/band, elbow patches, string stoppers, • Needle size, point styles, must be adapted to the used fabric/knit.
aglets, etc. • For children garments it is not allowed to use monofilament
thread.
In general, the used trim must be from a recognized brand, or in
Interlining/ Interfacing
accordance with the BESTSELLER® approved suppliers. All
components and trims must be fit for purpose relating to the end use • Interlinings should be a suitable weight, colour and construction
of the product. for the garment.
• Interlining and fabric must correspond with each other,
Trims must in general withstand the same washing and cleaning interlining must not be too stiff or too slackly.
procedure as the used fabric/knit and must not have a shrinkage • Fusible interlinings must not show visible glue points, pilling or
which is higher than the used fabric/knit. bubbles on the fabric.
• Fusible interlining should be cut slightly smaller than the fabric
Trims that will not detach, break or noticeably change in appearance piece to avoid press contamination.
after washed. • The colour of the interlining must not discolour the garment.
• The fabric must appear smooth and wrinkle-free at areas where
Trim must not give any colour staining on the used fabric/knit, and
the interfacing is applied.
the colourfastness must meet the requirements for the used
• Fusible interlinings must be applied at correct pressure,
fabric/knit or be better.
temperature and time.
All used trims must fulfil the BESTSELLER® Chemical Restrictions • Thermal paper stripes should be used to monitor the
and BESTSELLER® Code of Conduct. temperature of the fusing press and glue/fuse line
• Fusing bond strength (pull test) using a peel bond test equipment
Thread • Temperature between fabric and interlining. Fusible checks
• Core spun sewing thread must be used on all seams. should be carried out during production, these should be carried
• Must have enough strength and elasticity and match the used out at least every 4 hours, to ensure the criteria are met. Records
fabric and the application of the garment. Thread type and ticket of the checks should be kept for 6 months.
size must be adapted to the used fabric/knit.
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• For knitted or woven interlinings, it must be ensured that lining • Press/snap/jeans buttons must be attached with correct mold
and fabric are cut in same direction to avoid differential and pressure.
shrinkage. • Press/snap/jeans buttons must be attached with the use of the
• Shrinkage test, by use of a fabric shrinkage ruler. correct tool for the specific type of button and fabric.
Furthermore, the tool must be replaced when it is worn, or
Buttons
damaged as there can be a risk that the tool no longer functions
• Must be free of sharp edges and burrs. correctly.
• Must be correctly positioned.
Buttons must withstand a tensile force of:
• Sewn buttons should be attached using a lock stitch buttoning
Jeans (Jeans Buttons) min 200N
machine. Pants and Shorts plastic buttons min 150N
• Buttons with holes must be correctly aligned with the buttonhole. Pants and shorts fly counter button min.75N
Shirts, polos, tee, sweat, and knits min.90N
• Buttons with holes must be securely fastened, and with the use Buttons for button down shirts collar min. 50N
of below stitch density. Outerwear, jackets, blazers and tailoring min.150N
Buttons use at pocket and strap min 75N
Shirts 2-holes buttons; 8 stitches 4-holes buttons;

16 stitches Snap buttons tensile force individual parts (Male/female parts):
Shirt, polo, tee, sweat, knit, dresses and min. 90N
2-holes buttons; 10 stitches 4-holes buttons;
Pants skirts
18 stitches
Outerwear, blazers and tailoring min. 150N
2-holes buttons; 10 stitches 4-holes buttons; Snap button pull apart force min. 10-15N
Outerwear
20 stitches
• To prevent snap buttons from being ripped out, it may be

• For all buttons with a thread shank Bestseller strongly necessary to use a plastic shim between fabric/knits and
recommend the use of shank securing method such as Ascolite or stud/post part.
similar methods/system. • The strength requirements are related to the attachment in the
• Shank buttons and self-shank buttons must be fastened with a finished product.
density of 10 stitches. • Depending on the product and fabric, buttons must be secured
• There must not be any visible thread-ends after attachment. with a counter button.
• Buttons must be secured to prevent unravelling.
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• Factory must conduct button pull test minimum 3 times per day • Must be attached with the use of correct tool for the specific type
from each machine, and results must be recorded on a process of Rivet or Eyelet.
control chart, clearly stating the machine number and identity. • Must be applied using electric or pneumatically assisted presses.
• Random "Hand pull test" must also be carried out - open/close the • Must be attached with correct pressure and withstand a tensile
press button 10 times during inspections. force of 90N.
• Covered buttons must not have any frays from the cover • All fabric layers that the Rivets or Eyelets is mounted through,
material both outer and inner layers must be smooth, no uneven layers, no
• Buttons must be applied through even thickness of fabric. All folds or pleat must appear underneath.
fabric layers that the buttons are mounted through, both outer • The rivet shaft must not be smaller than Ø 9mm.
and inner layers, must be smooth, no uneven layers, no folds or • Supplier must provide a Pinch Setting report to the Brand prior
pleat must appear underneath the buttons to ordering the Rivets and Eyelets.
• Supplier must provide a Pinch Setting report to the Brand prior • Supplier must check the pinch setting every hour for all the press
to ordering the snaps. fasteners as per the metal notion supplier recommendation.
• Supplier must check the pinch setting every hour for all the press
fasteners as per the metal notion supplier recommendation. Refer BESTSELLER product safety manual and NAME IT Safety
See BESTSELLER product safety manual and NAME IT Safety Requirements regarding Rivets and eyelets.
Requirements regarding buttons for Baby wear products Zippers
• The general appearance of the zippers in the finished garment
Rivets and Eyelets
must be wrinkle free and without any bulkiness.
• Must be free of sharp edges or burrs. • Must meet the general requirements of zippers in EN16732:2015,
• Must be correctly positioned. covering.
• Must not give any colour or rust staining on the used fabric. • Puller attachment strength.
• Must have appropriate size/length and match the thickness of • Closed end strength
the fabric. • Top stop strength
• The fabric must be strong/thick enough for the jean’s rivets. • Open end fastener box strength
Double layers, interfacing and/or plastic washer/plastic pleat • Reciprocation (minimum cycles without failure)
must be used whenever needed to prevent buttons from • Lateral strength
destroying the fabric or coming-off. • Lateral strength of open-end attachment
• Slider locking device strength
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• Single stringer slider retention • Needs to have on labels in accordance with regulations in
• The zipper must have the performance code B, C, D or E in targeted country.
accordance with EN16732:2015, and be in accordance to their
If heat transfer label required. For most heat transfer applications,
proposed end use. heat platen temperature should be set between 350 to 375°F (177 to
Refer BESTSELLER product safety manual and NAME IT Safety 191°C) The pressure of the press is based on the thickness of the
Requirements regarding the Zippers. fabric; thicker fabric requires less pressure. For most projects,
Elbow Patches and other Patches medium or high pressure is used.
There are different times associated with different types of heat tran
• Must not change the surface significantly after several times of
wearing and washing. sfer. guidelines are based on past experience and recommend always
• Must meet the requirement of pulling resistance as the used to check with supplier for correct condition and carry out testing
fabric/knit. before going to the bulk production.
Inkjet Transfer Paper: 14 – 18 seconds

Shoulder Band
Dye Sublimation Transfer: 25 – 30 seconds
• Shoulder seam tape must be used to stabilize shoulder seams in Digital Appliqué Transfer: 20 – 30 seconds
all Tee and Sweats Vinyl Transfer: 45 – 60 seconds
• Transparent tape as Mobilon® tape, must not contains PVC.
• Tape must be stretchable. For applique transfer and vinyl transfer it is needed to cover the
• Tape must match the width of the seam, must not be too wide transfer paper with a thin cloth to protect it.
• Shoulder tapes must be used on knitted garments, applied to the Strings
back of the seam.
• Must have a strength which is suitable for daily wear and use
Patches and Labels without breaking.
• Always order labels from nominated source accordance to be • Must be securely closed at ends in accordance to Purchase order.
required quality. Refer to BESTSELLER product safety manual and NAME IT Safety
• Must be readable after several times of wearing, Requirements regarding strings.
washing/cleaning. Elastic Band
• All required label information must be conspicuous and legible at
• Any elastic part of a garment should be appropriate without
the point of sale.
introducing a risk for the wearer.
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• All Elastic should be pre-shrunk to ensure that there is no Cord Locks, String Stoppers, Aglets and Buckles
variable shrinkage between the fabric and the elastic.
• Must be free of sharp edges and burrs
• Elastic must extend sufficiently to fit easily over the body
• Must be rust proof, and must not give any colour or rust staining
(waist/cuff) and recover to the original relaxed measurement
on the finished garment
after extension.
• If a spring is mounted in the lock or stopper it must not be able to
• White colour of elastic band should not be used on dark-coloured
drop out during use and wash
garments or black colour of elastic band should not us on light
• Locks, stoppers, and aglets must be securely fastened at strings
coloured garments. (Unless considered a styling feature).
• Refer to BESTSELLER product safety manual & NAME IT Safety
• Must keep its elasticity during use and after several time of wash
Requirements regarding Cord locks, string stoppers, aglets, and
• Must have edges which will not fray after several time of use and
buckles
wash
• Must not twist during use and/or after wash Print
Hooks and Loop Fasteners • Prints must be graded across the sizes to remain proportional.
• Fabric standards to be agreed to use correct print type.
• All “hook and loop fasteners” used on garments must have
• The used dyestuff, chemicals and carries for all type of print must
trimmed edges, preferably rounded corners. No sharp edges
be in accordance with BESTSELLER® chemical restrictions.
allowed.
• Print must not change significantly after 10 times of use and
• Must have a strength which is suitable for the garment and its
washing, in accordance with the recommended care instruction
end use
in the garment.
• Must not be too stiff and must not give any damage on the used
• Prints must be meet colourfastness properties and wear
fabric.
resistant.
• Edges must be securely closed and not unravel during use and
wash. Ironing
• Fasteners must be correct in size and correctly positioned and • Approved ironing sample / sealed sample should be present at
aligned with the counterpart. pressing area.
Refer to BESTSELLER product safety manual & NAME IT Safety • Covering fabric of ironing table should be checked and replaced
Requirements regarding Hooks and Loop fasteners in certain time period to avoid dirtiness to garment during
ironing.
• Light colour covering fabric must be used for light colours.
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• Correct temperature setting must select to avoid damage • Skirts - The care label should be placed 15 cm below the
the fibres and yarns. waistband in the left side seam.
• Factors affecting pressing heat, steam and moisture, pressure and • Dresses - The care label should be placed 15 cm below the arm
vacuum must check regularly by the mechanical team in order to whole in the left side seam.
achieve good pressing quality. Also, below classified equipment
must check to assure all system works properly in ironing
section.
• Pressing equipment (pressing irons, block presses, pleating
presses etc.)
• Steaming and wetting (wetting tanks, pressure, piping line, steam
gun and jets etc.)
• Heating and baking (hot plates, dry heat ovens etc.)
• Process checking and maintenance records needs to be kept on
hand
Care labels
For all BESTSELLER and VILA products a care instruction needs to • Accessories - The care label should be placed as described below
have a care instruction attached by law. All care labels must be on accessories. Country of origin and CA number may not be
delivered from a nominated source. QC will inspect if position and written on a sticker, but should be sewn, stamped, or embossed
content match’s the garment. on the garment:
Below instructions must be follow unless other instructions are • Shoes/slippers/sandals - Printed on the sole
given from buying department. • Hats/caps/sun caps - Back, inside on right side
• Gloves/mittens - At the opening, inside
Adult Wear • Belts - Hangtag or printed on backside
• Tops, jackets, shirts - The care label should be placed 15 cm from • Scarves/shawls - Sewn into the side seam, right side 10 cm from
the bottom of the left side seam. For children’s garments, see the the bottom
section regarding kids-wear. • Ties - Back, on the thin part of the tie
• Pants - The care label should be placed in the middle of the • Bags/wallets - Inside, right side, if possible 10 cm from the
waistband between the centre front and the left side seam. Bottom.
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• Jewellery - Hangtag
• Sunglasses - Sticker on glasses
• Underwear - Back, inside, on both bras and panties. Care label for
underwear top should be placed 15 cm from the bottom of the
right-side seam. If underwear top and panties are sold as a set
the care label can be put on the underwear top only.
• Swimwear - Back, inside, only on panties if the styles are
supposed to be sold as sets.
• Tunics, Tops - The care label should be placed 10 cm from the
• Towels - On the short side 10 cm from the corner.
bottom of the left side seam (care label included).
Kids wear
• Dresses & Skirts - The care label should be placed 15 cm from the
For kids wear it is important that the size of care labels match the bottom of the left side seam (care label included).
size of the garment. For kids wear, the position of the care label is
different from adult garments on the below products:
• Bodies - The care label should be placed 10 cm from the bottom of

the left side seam (care label included).
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• Suits - The care label should be placed in the left side seam 10 cm
above the crotch (care label included)
• Underwear: briefs, hipsters, tights, boxer shorts and pantyhose -

The care label should be placed in the waistband between the
center back and the left side seam. Remember to use the
• Headbands - The care label should be placed in a poly bag and
accessory care label in smaller size.
attached by plastic string.
• Accessories: Hats, gloves, mittens, scarfs – use the accessory care
label – in smaller size.
• Bib scarfs - The care label should be placed in the neck, back left
side.
Care label placement for kids wear garments sold to Australia:

Care label for all kids wear garments sold to Australia must be placed
according to below:
• Tops (All styles with a neckline): The care label must be placed
inside the back neck- as close to the middle as the design allows.
• Bottom styles: The care label must be placed inside back
waistband - as close to the middle as the design allows.
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12. Mold control • Desiccant bags, PE sheets must be used when needed, read also
Moisture Control is to avoid the growth of mold in the production the section Silica Gel Bags & Anti - Mould Stickers
area, warehouse and in products. • Keep shipping cartons dry.
Some sources of moisture which can lead to mold growth are leaks or • Damaged cartons must not be used.
broken pipes, or a water-saturated floor that is not dried quickly due • Containers & closed trucks must be undamaged, dry, mold free
to poor ventilation of the area. Generally, mold can grow in the and sealed.
following areas. • Humidity gauge and thermometer must be implemented in
• Humid and damp areas. production area so temperature and humidity should be
• Moderate Temperature. monitored and recorded daily.
• Areas with organic matter. Aqua Boy
The ‘’Aqua Boy’’ moisture meter must be used to measure the
Key point is ‘’Control Humidity’’ and precautions should be taken
moisture content of garments. Follow the instructions for material
relatively:
composition and moisture requirements.
Thoroughly clean all warehouse and production areas regularly.
In the packing area check every garment in 3 different areas and
• Ensure that no leaks from roofs or walls (including doors and record the average moisture content.
windows) If any out-of-tolerance measurement is found reject the good
• Must have good air circulation & ventilation in the immediately and return to the dry process.
production area. ‘’Aqua Boy’’ should be used during internal audits and maintained
• All raw materials, components, and hardware should be on pallets records.
or racks away from exterior walls and windows. Depending on the local climate condition, it is necessary to define the
• Cut pieces should be stored in plastic bags / racks covered by moisture requirement for the different materials at least two times
plastic curtains. prior to stitching. per year for the rainy and non-rainy seasons. Climate conditions
• Ensure the iron temperature and the ironing time is high enough must be monitored daily.
and long enough to dry out all the moisture.
Dry Room
• Maintenance ironing material has no leaks
Manufactures should prepare a dry room with dehumidifiers where
• Vacuum boiling tanks piping system pipe steam instead of water.
garments are dried before packaging which is integrated into the
• Use fans instead of air conditioning during the ironing process to
packaging area.
minimize moisture.
• Ensure enough time to dry up before packed.
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• Must have functioning fans/dehumidifiers for air ventilation to Requirement
Aqua-Boy Centesimal Scale:
maintain a relative humidity of below 50%.
Wool: 24
• A humidity gauge and thermometer should be present so Cotton: 65
temperature & humidity can be monitored and recorded daily. Polyamide / Nylon: 65
Polyester: 39
• Goods can return to the packing area only if ‘’Aqua Boy’’ check Viscose / Rayon / Modal: 45
result is a ‘Pass.’ Flax(Linen): 75
One fibre
Polyacrylonitrile (acrylic): 40
• Refer to the below guidelines for general requirements for the
Spandex / Elastane: 0
moisture checking at BESTSELLER QC /AQC inspection. Silk: 45
• Inspection size: Artificial Leather (PU): 30
Original Leather: 50
o Dry season ; 3 samples (from Top, Middle & Bottom)
EVA/PEVA: 30
from each of 3 cartons Corrugated Boxes; 56
o Rainy season : 3 samples from each of 6 cartons Blended
By multiplying fibre content percentage and respective centesimal index for
each fibre:
fibre
• Moisture to be checked at inspection room following below notes: e.g., 60% Cotton 40% Polyester: 60% X 65 + 40% X 39 = 54.6 (centesimal scale)
- If goods are poly bagged, remove poly bag.

- If products have any screen print, applique or any
embellishment, avoid those area.
- Check outside of product except fabric with coating. For coated
fabric, check inside of product.
- If products have lining, check both inside and outside.
- Check at different areas of the product (e.g., thicker elements
like Collar/Neck Rib/Placket/pocket of shirts, Waistband/Front or
Back pockets/Fly of bottoms/ different attachment)
• If any fails – then whole shipment is failed.
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13. Packing Requirements & instructions without securely closing the flap is not sufficient as the bag might
This section of the provides information relating to BESTSELLER’s open during transport.
packing requirements. Fulfilment of these essentials is needed to All paper-based packaging and garments info accessories e.g
properly ship products to BESTSELLER hangtags, info tags, waist tags, pocket flasher, shoe boxes etc, which
are paper-based must be FSC certified and bought from an approved
• The garment should be packed in assortments in accordance with
vendor.
the order stated.
Goods for EU, all packaging material that is going to be disposed in
• Garments must be polybagged according to the guidelines
private households, must comply with French and Italian labelling
specified in the folding manual and using the correct polybag
laws – all goods bought from approved suppliers comply with these
specifications.
regulations.
• Garments are to be packed into the carton measurements
Any articles not fulling above, will at an inspection result in a
specified in the BESTSELLER manual.
rejected shipment.
• The suppliers name must not be stated anywhere. This includes
on cartons, tape, bags etc.
• For special “Key Account” orders (ASOS, OTTO etc.) refer to
“customer instructions.”
Garment Packaging Trims

Products must be polybagged to conform with the requirements
stipulated in the purchase order. If in doubt, contact your local
sourcing office.
All polybags must be 100% recycled polyester and can be bought
from nominated suppliers in all of Asia and Turkey – your local office
can provide you with contact details.
For production in North Africa or the EU contact the local sourcing
office for more information.
Single polybagged products must consume at least 85-90% of the bag
size to reduce waste and easy handling.
All bags must be closed securely (either with taped or sealed self-
adhesive) to improve handling and protect products. Folding the bag
51 | P a g e
Carton Quality Carton Weight
As a standard a double layered corrugated cardboard is required, the The maximum weight of the carton is:
cartons must be of a high quality and always – minimum - be as per • NOOS orders 23 kg
the following requirements: • Assortment orders 22 kg
Silica Gel Bags & Anti - Mould Stickers

When packing any orders for BESTSELLER, it is the suppliers’
responsibility to ensure that the products arrive at our warehouse in
a safe condition. If the product type, weather condition or other
things can cause mould-development during transportation or
storing, it is the suppliers’ responsibility to ensure proper mould-
protection is used.
BESTSELLER requires that all such anti-mould articles packed with
our products are fully compliant with the rules. Therefore, all
biocides used in such products must be registered accordingly. It is
supplier’s responsibility to use Original Micro Pak Products, the use
Box Size of Counterfeits is not allowed. Whenever possible, recycled card or
It is important that the size of the carton matches exactly with the paper should be used as packaging material. Note that silica gel bags
content; it must neither be too big nor too small. Alternative method are not allowed to be packed into single polybags.
is to adjust the assortment by contacting BESTSELLER Shipping
Department or the BESTSELLER Purchaser for the specific order.
• A degree of filling at 100% in the boxes is essential to avoid bulky

or damaged cartons during handling and transportation.
• The width of the box must be equal or bigger than the height, and
the length must be longer than the width
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14. Defect Categorization
Critical fault
This is a defect that compromises the general appearance of the
garment and is enough to consider the garment as nonsalable.
• Severe and obvious defects, e.g., mold, fault smell, insects, safety
issues (broken needle, insecure small part, or button etc.)
• Instantly affects the saleability of the garment, e.g. kids wear
flammability label missing.
• Non-functionality of the garment, e.g. minimum measurement
cannot be met.
• Severe variation from the approval sample specification and
sealed sample.
Major fault
This is a defect which is enough to cause the garment to be
considered as second quality.
• A defect which is obvious.

• Significantly reduced saleability or functionality which worsens
with wear and time.
• Varies significantly from the approval garment specification and
sealed sample.
Minor fault
This is a defect which normally would not be identified by the
customer unless it is less than the agreed quality standard.
• A defect which does not affect the functionality of the garment.

• Is not noticeable to the consumers on purchasing.
• Will not worsen during wear and wash.
54 | P a g e
Defect Classifications Cle- Untrimmed thread / connecting threads/ floats at
15 seams ( >1 cm critical for kids wear Major, Critical
Cle-4 Contamination on garment Major
Code English English
Cle-5 Oil spots or stains (cannot be removed) Major
Fa Fabric Defects Defect Severity:
Different weight / handle of fabric than approved Cle-6 Cuts and holes in fabric Major
Fa-1 sample Major, Critical Cle-8 Loose threads sticking to garment surface Minor, Major
Fa-2 Drill hole showing Major Cle-9 Visible QC mark/paper/batch marking on surface Minor
Fabric faults not evident on approved sample (eg. Cuts, Cle-
Fa-3 holes, spots, runs, missed picks and ends) Minor, Major 10 Visible chalk and other marks Minor
Fa-4 Snags, pulled yarn, pilling, weaving/knit fault.) Minor, Major Cle- Length mismatch (e.g. between shell and lining, front
12 and back panel) Minor, Major
Fa-5 Pattern, print, stripes, checks do not match as specified Minor, Major
Cle-
Fa-6 Permanent creases on fabric Minor, Major 13 Dust on Garments Minor, Major
Fa-7 Nap or pile deformation Minor, Major Cle-
14 Poor sticking at Inside patch for breaks Minor, Major
Fa-8 Undesirable odour Critical
Em Embroidery Defect Severity:
Fa-9 Needle Drop Minor, Major
Em-1 Wrong size or type of Artwork Major
Fa-10 Foreign Yarns Minor, Major
Untrimmed thread ends on surface <3mm (m)/
Fa-11 Wrong colour Critical Em-2 Untrimmed thread ends >3mm (M) Minor, Major
Fabric hand feel significantly different from sealed Untrimmed thread ends on reverse <2 cm(m)/
Fa-12 sample Major Em-6 Untrimmed thread ends >2cm (M) Minor, Major
Fa-13 Fabric weft yarn skewed / off-grain > 5% Major, Critical Em-3 Insecurely tacked at ends (easily unravels) Minor, Major
Sh Shading Defects Defect Severity: Placement more than 7 mm displacement (than
Em-4 specified) Major
Sh-1 Shade variations between panels Major
Incorrect thread density causing wavy and bumpy
Shade variation of garment fabric and trim within the
Em-5 appearance Minor, Major
Sh-2 garment Major
Connecting threads/ floats at reverse side of the
Sh-3 Dye streaks or marks at critical areas Major Em-7 embroidery ( >7 mm critical for kids wear) Major, Critical
Sh-4 Different batches within the order Comm’t Major Pn Printing Defect Severity:
Sh-5 Visible yellowing (indigo garments) Major Pn-1 Unwanted print spots Minor, Major
Significant variation of wash effect intensity from
Pn-2 Faded print Minor, Major
Sh-6 sealed sample Major
Pn-3 Print Placement off Minor, Major
Cle Cleanliness Defect Severity:
Pn-4 Incorrect print size/ misfit Minor, Major
Cle-1 Spot, stain and soil marks Minor, Major
Untrimmed thread ends <1cm (m)/ Untrimmed thread Pn-5 Print Bleeding Major
Cle-2 ends >1cm (M) Minor, Major Pn-6 Improper Print curing/ Sticky print Major
Untrimmed thread ends reverse side < 2 cm
Se Seams and stitching Defect Severity:
Cle-3 (m)/Untrimmed thread ends reverse side >2 cm (M) Minor, Major
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Se-1 Open seam Major Pr-4 Shine mark Minor, Major
Se-2 Skipped stitch Major Pr-5 Pressed poorly or not pressed at all Minor, Major
Se-3 Incomplete seams Minor, Major La Label, Hangtags and other accessories Defect Severity:
Se-4 Needle holes Minor, Major La-1 Missing or wrong tags, hangtag, price tags etc. Critical
Se-5 Improper stitch tension that affects appearance Minor, Major La-2 Hangtags insecurely attached or misplaced Minor, Major
Se-6 Raw edges outside (other than specified) Minor, Major La-3 Missing labels, care, main label etc. Critical
Se-7 Untidy mending Minor, Major La-4 Wrong labels, care, main label etc. Critical
Monofilament yarn being used as sewing thread in any Label sewing thread does not match colour of garment
Se-8 stitching incl. label stitching Minor, Major La-5 (other than specified) Minor, Major
Seam twisted, puckered or pleated (other than Label sewing seam uneven, puckered and more than 5
Se-9 specified) affecting the appearance Minor, Major La-6 mm away from label edge Minor, Major
Se-10 Broken stitching Minor, Major La-7 Labels insecurely attached Major
Se-11 Uneven stitch density Minor, Major Care label missing all or some care symbols (min. the
La-8 basic 5 pictograms) Critical
Se-12 Uneven/run off stitching Minor, Major
La-9 Main label incorrectly placed Minor, Major
Se-13 Untidy or improper tacking (e.g., unravels) Minor, Major
Care label incorrect placed <1cm displacement (m)/
Se-14 Too long tacking Minor La-10 >1cm displacement ( M) Minor, Major
Se-15 Missing bar tacks Minor, Major La-11 Faded Main labels, tags, wash care Minor, Major
Se-16 Incorrect seam allowance Minor La-12 Damaged, Faded, unreadable accessories Minor, Major
Se-17 Untidy cutting of seam allowance reverse side Minor, Major Da Darts Defect Severity:
Se-20 Interline fusing delamination or bubble appearance Minor, Major Incorrect in shape, length and depth more than 5 mm
Da-1 out of size description Minor
Se-22 Stay / Faults stitch Minor, Major
Po Pockets and flaps Defect Severity:
Se-23 Irregular / Gathering stitch Minor, Major
Po-1 Not in specified location more than 7 mm displacement Minor, Major
Se-24 Over stitch Minor, Major
Asymmetrical length / width- Sleeve, neck, shoulder, leg, Po-2 Shaped poorly Minor, Major
Se-25 string, pocket, flap etc Minor, Major Po-3 Sewn crooked Minor, Major
Asymmetrical shape / height at Left & Right- Neck,
Po-4 Not of specified size and shape Minor, Major
Se-26 Armhole, pocket, hem etc. Minor, Major
Length mismatch (e.g., between shell and lining, front Po-5 Not uniform Minor, Major
Se-28 and back panel) Minor, Major Po-6 Pucker at joints Minor, Major
Se-29 Asymmetrical belt loop Minor, Major Flaps not properly placed more than 5 mm
Po-7 displacement Minor, Major
Pr Pressing Defect Severity:
Po-8 Asymmetrical left to right Minor, Major
Pr-1 Over pressing causing seam impression Minor, Major
Ne Neckline, Half-moon, Collar and Cuffs Defect Severity:
Pr-2 Stretched or distorted during pressing Minor, Major
Ne-1 Incorrect Neckline and half-moon shape Minor, Major
Pr-3 Wrinkles that require pressing Minor, Major
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Ne-2 Not uniform in shape left to right Major Clo-7 Buttonholes, button loops, omitted or added Minor, Major
Ne-3 Incorrect Collar and stand shape Minor, Major Clo-8 Buttonholes uncut (other than specified) Minor, Major
Wrong fabric or colour (if specified other than main Buttonholes, button loops incorrect in size (do not fit
Ne-5 fabric) Minor, Major Clo-9 with the button) Minor, Major
Ne-6 Puckers or pleats at collar attachment Minor, Major Clo- Buttonholes, button loops not sewn securely (easily
Collar points not uniform and balanced (other than 10 unravels) Minor, Major
Ne-7 specified) Minor, Major Clo- Wrong thread colour (if specified other than tone in
11 tone with main fabric) Minor, Major
Ne-8 Puckering on collar joining Minor, Major
Clo-
Ne-9 Misaligned or crooked collar settings more than 2 mm Minor, Major 12 Wrong type, size or colour Minor, Major
Ne-10 Puckered or crooked top stitching Minor, Major Clo-
13 Defective snaps or fasteners that do not function Major, Critical
Ne-11 Incorrect Cuff Shape Minor, Major
Clo-
Ne-13 Pleated or puckered cuffs at sleeve joints in woven cuff Minor, Major 14 Misalignments of fasteners causing bad appearance Minor, Major
Rib collar or -cuffs set too tight (not having enough Clo-
Ne-15 stretch ability) Minor, Major 15 Snaps not attached properly or release very easily Major, Critical
Ne-16 Twisting of side seam above 2.5 cm Minor, Major Clo- Improper zippers setting causing wavy and bumpy
16 appearance Minor, Major
Pl Plackets Defect Severity: Clo-
Wrong fabric or colour (if specified other than main 17 Incorrect zipper size, type or colour Minor, Major
Pl-1 fabric and colour) Minor, Major Clo-
Top and bottom placket length not equal more than 7 18 Defective zipper slides Major, Critical
Pl-2 mm difference Minor, Major Clo-
Pl-3 Top placket not covering inner placket Minor, Major 19 Defective zipper stopper Major, Critical
Pl-4 Unbalanced and crooked placket top stitch Minor, Major Clo- Tight clearance between slides and seam edge causing
20 difficult slider operation Minor, Major
Pl-5 Pleats at ends (half placket/henleys) Minor, Major
Clo-
He Hemming Defect Severity: 21 Wrong rivet type, size or colour Minor, Major
He-1 Wrong shape Minor, Major Clo-
22 Rivets incorrect placed more than 3 mm displacement Minor, Major
He-2 Raw edges outside (other than specified) Minor, Major Clo-
Clo Closure Defect Severity: 23 Rivets with rough edges Minor, Major
Clo-
Clo-1 Wrong buttons size, type or colour Minor, Major
24 Rivets not attached properly or release very easily Minor, Major
Clo-2 Buttons missing or damaged Major, Critical Clo-
Clo-3 Buttons placement off Major 25 Fabric pleats under rivets causing a bad appearance Minor, Major
Clo-
Clo-4 Buttons not sewn securely Minor, Major, Critical
26 Rusty or tarnish trims Critical
Buttonholes incorrect orientation than approved
Clo-
Clo-5 sample or specified (vertical, horizontal or diagonal) Minor, Major
27 Raw or unfinished edge - draw strings, ties and ribbon Minor, Major, Critical
Clo-6 Buttonholes placement off Major
Bu Buckles, etc. Defect Severity:
57 | P a g e
Bu-1 Wrong size or colour Major Wa-5 Line / Crease mark Minor, Major
Bu-2 Incorrect placement Major Improper PP spray / Hand scraping （compared to
Wa-6 approved standard） Minor, Major
Bu-3 Buckle insecurely attached for kids wear Critical
Improper whisker / Chevron compared to approved
Fo Folding and packing Defect Severity: Wa-7 standard Minor, Major
Fo-1 Not as specified Major Wa-8 Grinding / Destroy compared to approved standard Minor, Major
Fo-2 Incorrect assortment in a box Major Wa-9 Bad Smell Critical
Fo-3 Mold contamination (spots or smell) Critical Wa-
10 Moisture Critical
Fo-4 Shade variation within the box Major
Le Leather Defect Severity:
Fo-5 Folding not as specified Minor, Major
Le-1 Gauge/Thickness uneven Minor, Major
Fo-6 Damaged or incorrect polybag Minor, Major
Le-2 Wrinkles Minor, Major
De Design and colour way Defect Severity:
Le-3 Shower/butcher cut Minor, Major
De-1 Not according to approved sample or specified Critical
Le-4 Stiff leather Major
Sc Shipping Mark and Carton Defect Severity:
Le-5 Pin holes. Minor, Major
SC-1 Damaged, Wrong, or incomplete markings Major, Critical
Le-6 Panel variation. Minor, Major
SC-2 Overstuffed carton Major
Le-7 Coating off Minor, Major
SC-3 Understuffed carton Major
Ms Measurement Defect Severity:
SC-4 Carton exceeding Maximum weight limit Major
Ms-1 Plus out of tolerance measurement Major
SC-5 Incorrect carton Dimension Minor, Major
Ms-2 Minus out of tolerance measurement Major
SC-6 Incorrect Carton Quality Major
Ms-3 Oversize measurement Major
SC-7 Wet or damaged cartons Major
Ms-4 Undersize measurement Major
Pa Padding Defect Severity:
Sf Safety Defect Severity:
Incorrect voluminous of padding (compared to sealed
Pa-1 sample) Major Sf-1 Broken needle Critical
Pa-2 Unevenness of padding Major Sf-2 Neck strength Major, Critical
Pa-3 Visible padding at seams Major Sf-3 Sharp edges Major, Critical
Pa-4 Penetration of fibre/down Major Sf-4 Mold Critical
WA Washing Defects Defect Severity: Sf-5 Draw length etc. exceed than specified for kids wear Critical
Insecure small acc / decoration on baby products
Wa-1 Wash / Dye mark, spot Minor, Major
Sf-6 (under 3 years children) Critical
Wa-2 Hand feel hard / Soft Minor, Major
Sf-7 Insect on product Critical
Wa-3 Uneven Wash Minor, Major
Sf-9 Foreign substance/object in the box Critical
Wa-4 Cross stain, Cleaning stain Minor, Major
58 | P a g e
59 | P a g e
15. Safety Performance • All Children’s night dresses and dressing gowns must comply
All products manufactured for BESTSELLER must comply with the with the UK Nightwear Safety Regulations BS 5722: 1985 and
relevant laws, industry standards and regulations. carry the label KEEP AWAY FROM FIRE.
Therefore, suppliers must understand and deliver the standards • Additional European flammability regulations BS EN 14878:
listed below for each of the relevant markets. The latest versions of apply to children’s nightwear and pyjamas.
these standards must always be used. • BS 8510 Child use and care articles-Safety of children’s sleep
bags-Safety requirements and test methods.
• Children’s clothing that have cords and drawstrings must
• Must comply to EN 16781Baby sleep Bags.
comply with BS EN 14682, 2015 Safety of children’s clothing -
• Canada: Children’s Sleepwear: Flammability Requirement
Cords and drawstrings on children’s clothing –Specifications.
Guidelines.
• CEN_TR 16792_2014 Safety of children’s clothing —
Recommendations for the design and manufacture of children’s • ASTM D1230 -17 Flammability of Apparel Textiles. The test
clothing — Mechanical safety. method detailed in this standard evaluates the flammability of
• European standard - Safety of toys- EN 71 1: 2014 Mechanical consumer textile fabrics. It is applicable to apparel items other
and physical properties. than children’s sleepwear or protective clothing.
• EN 12586:2011 Child use and care articles - Soother holder.
• BS 8466 : 2006 Sun protection hats.
• U.S 16 CFR 1615 and 1616 for children’s nightwear in U.S.A.
• EN 13758 -2: 2012 Solar UV protective properties.
• CAN/CGSB 4.2 NO. 27.5 – Standard applies to any textile fabric
• EN 12935 : 2001 Feather/down hygiene and cleanliness
which is ready for use in wearing apparel.
requirements
• U.S. 16 CFR 1610 : Standard applies to any textile fabric which is
• Painted or enamelled buttons, studs, rivets poppers, other
ready for use in wearing apparel.
fastenings and embellishments used on children’s clothing must
• All toys attached to garments must be tested according to EN 71-
comply with the European Toy Regulations EN71 Part 3.
1+2+3
• Zips and Slide Fasteners must meet the appropriate performance
category in EN16732:2015
• Button strength for children’s wear must comply with BS 4162:
1983
• The Food Imitations (Safety) Regulations relates to all items
which due to their form, colour, smell resemble foodstuffs/sweets
or may encourage children to mouth, chew or swallow.
60 | P a g e
16. Changes and Additions
Quality manual 2023, 6th edition.
This page highlights the new additions and changes in quality
manual since the last version published.
Read through this document and the quality manual carefully.
This manual are significant different than ver. 2.5
• KPI score overview
• Technical review minimum requirements changed
• New packaging section
Copyright ©BESTSELLER A/S
All rights reserved.
No part of this publication may be
reproduced, stored in a retrieval
system or transmitted in any form or
by any means, electronic mechanical,
photocopying, recording, scanning
or otherwise, except if specifically
permitted by BESTSELLER A/S in writing.

5th
edition, Version 2.6 Marts 2023
61 | P a g e

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QUALITY MANUAL

Ver 2.6 Marts 2023

Apart from meeting the requirements in this manual, it is expected

• Perform inline/final inspection on behalf of BESTSELLER

• Perform inline/final inspection on behalf of BESTSELLER

Training to AQC and Manufacture

AQL Level and Inspection Standard

Preparation Requirements for Sealed sample

Damaged or Blunt Needle Replacement

Embroidery Scissors, Knives and Cutting Blades

• Quarantine – when goods received before inspection

Slabs Slabs Point Classification

Total points for the roll x 3600

Warehouse Management System

• Thread breakages (broken stitch). Leather Products 8-10

• Mending or repairs on top stitching Trunks - 12-13 13-14

be able to stretch without breaking the thread. Flatlock 13-14

General Guidelines for Stitch Density

• Visually checking e.g. exposed yarn, uneven cutting, needle

Return for Repair

During inspection, if any defect is identified then goods must be

Shirts 2-holes buttons; 8 stitches 4-holes buttons;

• To prevent snap buttons from being ripped out, it may be

Inkjet Transfer Paper: 14 – 18 seconds

• Bodies - The care label should be placed 10 cm from the bottom of

• Underwear: briefs, hipsters, tights, boxer shorts and pantyhose -

Care label placement for kids wear garments sold to Australia:

- If goods are poly bagged, remove poly bag.

• If any fails – then whole shipment is failed.

Garment Packaging Trims

Silica Gel Bags & Anti - Mould Stickers

• A degree of filling at 100% in the boxes is essential to avoid bulky

• A defect which is obvious.

• A defect which does not affect the functionality of the garment.

Copyright ©BESTSELLER A/S

All rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be

reproduced, stored in a retrieval

system or transmitted in any form or

by any means, electronic mechanical,

photocopying, recording, scanning

or otherwise, except if specifically

permitted by BESTSELLER A/S in writing.

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