Methods of Fabric Production (Teaching)

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METHODSOFF

ABRI
CPRODUCTI
ON
Th
eme
tho
dso
ffa
bri
cpr
oduc
ti
ona
re:

1
.We
avi
ng

2.Kn
itt
ing

3
.No
n-wo
ven

4.Bo
ndi
ng/
Lami
nat
ing

We
avi
ng

We
avi
ngisthepr
oce
ssofpr
oduci
ngafa
bri
cbyin
ter
lac
ingt
woormor
eyar
nsatr
igh
ta n
gle
.
Wo
venfa
b r
ic
sa r
ewide
lyneede
da n
dwe a
vin
gisoneoftheo
lde
standmos
twidel
yused
me
tho
dsofma k
ingf
abr
ic
s.

Ty
peso
fWe
ave
s

Ba
sicWe
ave
s

i
. Pl
ai
nwe
ave
s:Ea
chwa
rpi
nte
rla
ceswi
the
achf
il
l
ingy
arn
s.

i
i
. Bask
etweav
es:Twoormo
rey
arn
sinawa
rp,f
il
l
ingo
rbo
thd
ire
cti
ons
,wo
vena
on
ea sap
lai
nwe a
ve.

i
i
i. Sa
tinwea
ve:Insat
in,
eachwar
pyarnfl
oat
sove
rfourf
il
li
ngya
rnsa
ndint
erl
ace
s
wi
ththefi
ft
hfil
l
ingyar
nwit
hap r
ogre
ssio
nofi
nte
rlac
ing
,bytwot
oth
er i
ghtor
t
helef
t

i
v. Twil
lweave:I
nt wi
llweav
e,eachwa r
po rfi
l
li
n gy
arnfl
oat
sacro
s stwoormore
fi
l
li
ngyarnswit
hap rog
ress
ionofint
erl
aci
ngb yon
etotheri
ghtorle
ftfor
min
ga
di
sti
nctdi
agonalli
ne.Afl
oatisthep o
rti
onofay ar
nthatcr
osseso v
ertwoor
moreyar
nsfro
mt heoppos
it
ed i
rec
ti
on.
Pl
ai
nWe
ave Twi
l
lWe
ave

Ba
ske
t We
ave

F
anc
yWe
ave
s:

1
.Mo
mieo
rcr
epe
2.Do
bby
3
.Ja
cqua
rd
4.Do
ubl
ecl
oth
5.Pi
l
e
6
.Sl
ack
-te
nsi
on
7.Le
no
8.S
wiv
el
Pa
rtso
faLo
om

Weavi
ngisdoneo
namac
hin
eca
ll
edLo
om.I
npr
imi
ti
vel
ooms
,th
ewa
rpy
arn
swe
rek
ept
up
rig
htorho
riz
ont
al.

2ha
rne
sss
hut
tl
elo
om

1
.Wa
rpBe
am–Th
ewa
rpy
arn
sar
ewo
undo
ntoawa
rpb
eam.

2.Heddl
e(hea
dle
)–Awi r
ewi
thah o
leoreyei
nitsce
ntr
ethro
ughwhi
chwarpy
arnis
thr
eaded
.Ther
ea r
easman
yh e
adlesasthe
rearewarpyar
nsint
hecl
othandth
e
heddl
earehel
dintwoo
rmorehar
nesse
s.Eachwarpyar
nspas
sest
hro
ughtheey
e
ofonl
yonheddl
e

3
.Harne
ss:Afr
amet ohol
dth
ehedd
les
.Thi
sisthep
artofthel
oomt
hatf
ormst
he
we
avebyc
ont
rol
l
ingth
eupandd
ownposi
ti
onoft
hewarpya
rns.

4.Reed:Thi
scanonlybecal
ledbat
ten
.Thisbeatsorpus
hesthefi
ll
in
gyarni
ntopl
ace
toma ket
hefab
ricfi
rm.Areedisas e
tofwiresinaframe.Readist
hepar
tofthe
l
o o
mt hro
ughwh i
chwa r
py ar
nsarethread
e d
.Th espac
esb e
tweenthewi
resare
cal
leddent
s.War
py a
rnsareth
reade
dthroughthedent
sinthere
ed.

5.S
hut
tl
e:S
hut
tl
eist
hep
arto
fso
mel
oomst
hati
sus
edt
oca
rryf
il
l
ingy
arnt
hro
ugh
t
hes
hed.

6
.Clot
horFa
bri
cbea
m:Thi
sisar
oll
erwh
erewo
venf
abr
ic
sar
ero
ll
edun
to.I
tisa
lso
k
nownast
akeupbea
m.

7.De
nts
:Ho
lesi
nth
ehe
adl
e

We
avi
ngS
tep
s
1
.Shedd
ing
:Ra
isi
ngo
neo
rmo
reh
arn
ess
est
ose
par
atet
hewa
rpy
arn
san
dfo
rma
s
hed
.

2.Pi
cki
ng:Pa
ssi
ngt
hes
hut
tl
eth
roug
hth
esh
edt
oin
ser
tth
efi
l
li
ng

3
.Be
ati
ng:Pus
hin
gth
efi
l
li
ngy
arni
ntop
lac
eint
hef
abr
icwi
tht
her
eed
.

4.Ta
keup
:Wi
ndi
ngf
ini
she
dfa
bri
ctot
hef
abr
icb
eam.

F
abr
ic: (a)Isap l
ai
nersubst
anceconst
ruc
tedfro
ms o
lut
io
ns,fi
bre
s,ya
rns,orany
c
ombi
nat
io
no ft
hes
e.(b)Fa
bri
cisapli
abl
e,pl
anel
ikestr
uct
uretha
tcanbemadein
tot
wo
o
rth
reedi
mensi
ona
lprod
uct
sthatr
equi
resomeshap
ingandfl
exi
bil
i
ty

S
omeTe
rms

F
abr
ic
ati
on:Me
tho
dsus
edt
opr
oduc
eaf
abr
ic

F
abr
icCr
imp
:Be
ndsc
aus
edb
ydi
st
ort
io
nofy
arn
sinaf
abr
ic
.

F
abr
icg
rad
ing
:Th
epr
oce
sso
fin
spe
cti
ngf
abr
ic
s

F
abr
icI
nspe
cti
on:Th
ep ro
ces
sofe
xami
ni
ngo
ffa
bri
cfo
rre
gul
ari
ti
es,d
efe
cts
,fl
aws
o
rot
herap
pear
ancepro
blems
.

F
abri
cqual
i
ty:Fabr
ic
’sFr
eed
omf ro
md ef
ect
s,uni
for
ms tr
uctur
eandap
pea
ran
ce
r
ela
tedt
othef
abr
ict
ypea
ndperf
ormanc
eduri
ngpr
oduct
io
na ndinus
e.

F
abr
icS
oft
ene
r:Th
isi
sco
mpo
undus
edi
nfi
ni
shi
nga
ndc
lea
nin
gtoi
mpr
ovef
abr
ic
h
and

F
abri
cwei
ght
:De
scr
ibe
sfa
bri
csma
sso
rho
waf
abr
icwe
igh
sfo
rag
ive
nar
eao
f
l
eng
th.

Allwove
nfabr
icsar
emadewithtwoormor
esetso
fya
rnin
ter
lac
eda tr
igh
tangl
eex
cept
tr
iaxi
alf
abr
ic
s.Tri
axi
alf
abr
icsar
efab
ric
sma d
ewit
hthr
eesetofya
rnsint
erl
ace
dat60-
degr
eeangl
estoea
choth
er.

F
abr
ic
sareusedi
nappa
relf
urn
ishi
ngandmanyi
ndus
tri
alp
roduc
ts.Wovenf
abr
ic
sus
edi
n
a
ppa
relf
urn
ish
ing
s,a
ndinin
dust
ri
alpr
oduc
tsh
a v
ethe
sechara
cte
rist
ic
s.

 Twoo
rmo
res
etso
fya
rnsa
rei
nte
rla
ceda
tri
ghta
ngl
est
oea
cho
the
r

 Ma
nyd
if
fer
enti
nte
rla
cin
gpa
tte
rnsg
ivei
nte
res
tan
dte
xtur
etot
hef
abr
ic
 Ya
rnsc
anb
ere
vel
edf
roma
dja
cen
tsi
des

F
abr
ic
sha
veg
rai
n.

F
abr
ic
sar
ere
lat
iv
elys
tab
le,
wit
hli
tt
les
tre
tchi
nwa
rpo
ffi
l
li
ngy
arn

Co
mpo
nen
tso
faf
abr
ic
:Th
eco
mpo
nen
tso
ffa
bri
car
e:

F
ibr
e

 Ya
rn

S
truc
tur
e

F
ini
sh

F
ibr
e: (
a)Anys
ubst
ance,na
tur
alormanuf
act
ure
d,wi
thhig
hleng
th– to-
wid
thr
ati
o
an
dwit
hsuit
ablec
har
act
eri
st
ic
sforb
ein
gpro
ces
sedin
toafa
bri
c.

(
b)Ah
air
-l
ik
eun
ito
fra
wma
ter
ial
use
dinma
kin
gorp
rod
uci
ngf
abr
ic
sorc
lot
hs

(
c)I
tist
heb
asi
cun
ito
fwh
ichf
abr
ici
sma
de.

(
d)I
tisathinst
rando
fma
ter
ial
swi
thc
har
act
eri
st
ic
sth
ata
ll
owt
hemt
obe
madei
ntof
abr
ic
s.

Ya
rn: (
a)S
tra
ndt
hati
sfo
rme
dwh
enf
ib
resa
ret
wis
tedt
oge
the
r.

(
b)Acon
tin
uousstra
ndso
ffi
bre
she
ldt
oge
the
rasag
roupf
ort
hep
urp
oseo
f
ma
kingfa
bri
cs.

(
c)Anasse
mb l
ageoff
ib
rest
wiste
do rlai
dtoge
the
rsoa
stof
ormac
ont
inuo
us
st
ran
dthatcanb
ema dei
ntoatex
til
efabr
ic
s.

S
truc
tur
e: Th
eme
tho
dofp
rod
uci
ngaf
abr
ic
.

F
ini
shi
ng: Afi
nishi
sa nypr
oces
stha ti
sdonetofib
re,y
arnorf
abri
ce i
the
rbef
oreo
r
a
fte
rfabr
ic
ati
ontochang
et heap
peara
nce(whati
ssee
n),thehand(
whati
s
f
el
t),
theper
for
mance(whatth
efabr
icdoe
s)

Ch
ara
cte
ris
ti
cso
fwo
venf
abr
ic
s:

1
.Wa
rpa
ndf
il
li
ng(
wef
t)
2.Gr
ain

3
.Fa
bri
cco
unt

4.Ba
lan
ce

5.S
elv
age
s

6
.Fa
bri
cwi
dth

7.F
abr
icwe
igh
t.

1
.Wa rpandfi
ll
in
g:Allyar
ns(warp& weft
)int h
ef urn
ishi
ngandapp
arelf
abr
ic
s
i
nte
rla
ceatr
ightang
lest
oo n
ea n
oth
er.Anint
erl
aci
ngisthepo
inta
twh i
chayar
n
c
hangesi
tsp
osit
io
nfromonesi
deoft
hefabr
ict
otheo t
her.

2.Gr
ain:Thisistherel
ati
onshi
po fwarptofi
ll
i
ngy ar
ninawo ve
nfabri
c.
iti
sa l
sothe
po
siti
ono fwarpyarnsi nrel
ati
ontofil
li
ngyarnsinthefabri
c.Afabr
icthatison
gr
ainhaswa rpyar
nsp a
rall
elt
oe ac
ho t
herandperpe
ndicul
artoth
efil
li
ngyarnsthat
moves t
raightacros
st hefabri
c.F abr
icsarea l
mo s
ta l
wa y
swo veno n–g ra
in.
Handl
ing,fi
nish
ingorstres
sd uetoyarntwist
,weaveo rothe
rfabr
icaspect
sma y
ca
usef a
b r
ictod i
st
ortandlosethei
ron–grai
nc har
acte
ris
tic.
Thesefabr
ic
sa reoff
–grai
n.Butfabri
cquali
tyhassig
nif
ic
antl
yincr
easedanditisra
retofi
ndfabr
icsthat
ar
eo f
f-
grain

3
.Fabr
icCount
:Thisi
sthenumberofwarpandfi
l
li
ngy a
rnspe rsq
uareinc
hofgr
ay
g
ood
s.(F
a b
rica
sitcomesf
romtheloom.Gra
ygood
s/Greygoods
/Greig
egood
sisa
g
ene
ralt
ermusedtodes
cri
beda
n yun
fini
she
dwovenorknit
tedfab
ric
.

Coun
tisani
ndi
cat
io
no ft
heq
ual
i
tyo
fth
efa
bri
c–t
heh
igh
ert
hec
oun
t,t
heb
ett
er
th
equal
it
yfo
ranyf
abri
c.

4.Bal
ance:Th
isr
efer
stoth
erat
ioofwar
ptofi
ll
i
ngyar
nsinaf
abri
c.Abal
anc
edf
abr
ic
ha
sa p
proxi
mat
elyonewar
pyar
nfore
veryf
il
l
ingy
earno
rarat
ioof1:
1.

Anun
bal
anc
edf
abr
ich
ass
ign
ifi
can
tlymo
reo
fon
ese
tofy
arn
sth
ant
heo
the
r.Th
e
r
ati
ois2:
1.

Ba
lan
cei
she
lpf
uli
n

(
i) Re
cog
niz
inga
ndn
ami
ngaf
abr
ic

(
ii
) Di
st
ing
uis
hin
gth
ewa
rpd
ire
cti
ono
ffa
bri
c.

5.S
elv
ages
:Sel
vageisthese
lf
-edg
eoft
hefab
ricwh
erefi
ll
i
n gy
arn
se nd
sort
urnt
ogo
t
hro
ughano
thersh
e d
.Iti
sals
othel
eng
thwi
sesel
f-
edg
eo faf
abr
ic.

6
.Fabri
cWidt
h:Th elo
omd eter
mine
st h
ewidthofafabr
ic
.Handwove
nfabri
csare
n
arro
w,of
ten27to36inche
swide.I
fthel
oomiswide
r,t
hefa
bri
cal
sowil
lbewid
er.
I
fth
eloo
mi sna
rrower
,th
efabri
cwil
lbenar
rowert
oo.

7.F
abri
cWe i
ghtorFa
bri
cMa s
s:Thi
sdescr
ib
eshowmuc haf a
bri
cwei
ghsf
oragi
ven
a
reaorle
ngthoffabr
ic
.Fab
ricwe
igh
tsareimpor
tan
tb e
causei
tisus
edtoi
den
tif
y
f
abr
icap
propr
iat
enes
sfore
nduseandinnamin
gfabr
ics
.

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