Traditional costume of the Eastern Hindukush area:

Some problems of its origin and modification

against the background of ancient and modern culture

Sergey A. Yatsenko, Sviatoslav I. Kaverin (Moscow)

Roots of Peristan, Roma, 06.10.2022
Fig. 2. Late 6th c. BC, the territory of future ‘Peristan’ began to border with the first “World Empire" of Iran
(after Yatsenko 2019, fig. 15)
Fig. 3. A retrospective list of costume elements common to the ancient Iranians
(after Yatsenko, in Journal of Indo-European Studies Monograph Series, No. 56, 2009, fig. 1)
Fig. 4a. Long sleeved coat of “kandys” type

Katanda, Pazyryk culture

Persepolis
 Fig. 4b. Long sleeved coat of “kandys” type
E.Kate, Bragomatol / Lutdeh, 1885
Lockhart, Woodthorpe 1889, p. 320f, pl. 90

E.Kate, 1978 E.Kate, 1906

by R. & S. Michaud Stein 1912, 38f, pl. 15
Fig. 5. Short jackets with expanding sleeves, wrapped to the left, made of coarse woolen or cotton fabric or goat skins

Kom, 1978 // by R. Depardon

@ Magnum Photographers

Waigali, 1953 // by K. Ferdinand Wamai, 1935 E.Kate, 1919 by some Kafirs in their best years Kushans (Saksan Ohur)
Castenfeldt, Søholt 1985, fig. 6 by W. Lentz Lt.-Col. G. J. Davis Afghanistan and its late amir 1902, p. 13 Yatsenko 2001, fig. 121
ibid 1985, fig. 3 @ NAM (UK)
 Fig. 6. Sleeveless jackets made of skins (wrapped to the left)

Waigal valley? 1963

by A. L. Grünberg (USSR)

Nisheigrom // by S. Jones, 1967 Muldesh // by K. Ferdinand, 1953 Pashai, Kurder // after W. Simpson, 1879 Achaemenides
@ Pitt Rivers Museum (UK) Castenfeldt, Søholt 1985, fig. 8 Illustrated London News (16.08.1879), p. 12 Bittner 1985, Taf. 27
 Fig. 7. Caftans, wrapped to the left

E.Kate priest family

E.Kate, 1929 // by B. S. Guha @ Musée du Quai Branly (FR) by R. C. F. Schomberg, 1935
Jones 1983, pl. 20
 Fig. 8. Shirt with a slit gate on the left

E.Kate, 1929 // by B. S. Guha // colorized E.Kate, Bragomatol / Lutdeh, 1885 Indo-Scythians

@ Musée du Quai Branly (FR) Lockhart, Woodthorpe 1889, p. 320f, pl. 90 Yatsenko 2006, fig. 137
 Fig. 9. The shirt with imitation of the left lapel

Waigali, 1965 // by W. P. Thesiger Sodgiana (Penjikent)

@ Pitt Rivers Museum (UK) Yatsenko 2006, fig. 181
 Fig. 10. Pocket on the left breast of a dress or shirt

Nisheigram, Waigal valley, 1976 Nisheigram, Waigal valley Indo-Scythian (Shahr-i-Bahlol)

courtesy of Max Klimburg by S. Jones, 1970 Yatsenko 2006, fig. 143
@ Pitt Rivers Museum (UK)
 Fig. 11. The hem with triangular protrusions (3, 6, 12) on skirts, coats, trousers
Gambiri @ BnF (FR)
by Imam Bakhsh,
bef. 1840

Late Sasanian
Gambiri @ Musée Guimet (FR) Kafir boys in Kabul // by L. A. Hamilton, 1896
Yatsenko 2006, fig. 158
by Imam Bakhsh, bef. 1840 courtesy of Wellcome Library (UK)
 Fig. 12. Rhomb-shaped ornament on the shoulders or chest (also at the back and sleeves, and trousers)

Zhönchigal, Waigal valley, 1964

Edelberg, Jones 1979, 31f, pl. 7

Paruni // by W. P. Thesiger, 1965 Pontic Scythians (Butory)

@ Pitt Rivers Museum (UK) Snoy 1965, Abb. 30a Yatsenko 2006, fig. 28
 Fig. 13. The decoration variants of male trousers

E.Kate effigy @ National Museum (AF)

Lower Waigal // D. J. Katz, 1976

E.Kate effigy E.Kate effigies @ Peshawar Museum (PK) Edelberg 1960, fig. 32 Achaemenian decor
Hackin 1926, fig. 3 Yatsenko 2006, fig. 2–3
 Fig. 14. The swing skirt with a plugged edge at the top of ‘ponёva’ / ‘zapaska’ type

Gambiri @ Musée Guimet (FR) Zhönchigal, Waigal valley, 1964 Pontic Scythian female attire (Vishnёvaya Mogila site)
by Imam Bakhsh, bef. 1840 Edelberg, Jones 1979, 38f, pl. 14 Yatsenko 2006, fig. 38–39
 Fig. 15. Ribbons crisscrossing on the chest – saches or ‘haikal’ type

Dardic Kalasha E.Kate effigies E.Kate effigy, after a sketch by Dardic Kalasha effigy Kushan art object
by S. Jones 1966/7 Edelberg 1960, fig. 41 Col. R. G. Woodthorpe, 1885 Newton 1963, p. 46 Sarianidi 1985, fig. 80
 Fig. 16. “Ritual apron” ?

one of E.Kate chiefs (twice)

by Surg. G. M. J. Giles, 1895
Edelberg, Jones 1979, p. 47f, pl. 25
Jones 1973, p. 234

Khwarezmian attire
Yatsenko 2006, fig. 202
 Fig. 17. The high conical headdress with stiffening ribs

Dardic Kalasha effigy (Khush Beg) one of Kom chiefs, 1885 Yatsenko 2006,
Newton 1963, p. 45 Lockhart, Woodthorpe 1889, p. 293f, pl. 78 fig. 137, 180-181, 189
cf. Schomberg 1938, p. 52f
 Fig. 18. Headdress of ‘pakol’ type

a foreigner, Ajanta caves

Takata 1971, p. 90, pl. 94

E.Kate, 1913 E.Kate, 1919 Kushan & Indo-Scythian headgear

by Maj. H. C. D. Jarrett by Lt.-Col. G. J. Davis Yatsenko 2001, pl. 12, 14
@ National Army Museum (UK)
 Fig. 19. The female headdress with “horns of a mountain goat”

the effigy of E.Kate woman

by Capt. J. P. Sulley, 1915 E.Kate female headdress
@ Royal Geographical Jones 1983, pl. 18a
Society (UK) @ Kulturhistorisk
museum (NO)

E.Kate woman, 1885 E.Kate priest’s wife, 1935

by Surg. G. M. J. Giles by R. C. F. Schomberg female headdress, Pazyryk culture
Jones 1983, pl. 17 Jones 1983, pl. 19 Yatsenko 2006, fig. 57
 Fig. 20. The type of male hairstyle

Consider
the lateral
hair locks,
too.

E.Kate, 1919
“Conquest”,
Dec 1921,
vol. III, No 26,
p. 46

Gambiri // Musée Guimet & BnF E.Kate // Bonvalot 1889, p. 445 Pashai, Nangarach, Nurgram male headdress, Pazyryk
by Imam Bakhsh, bef. 1840 Müller 1939, S. 224, Abb. 11b Yatsenko 2006, fig. 46
 Fig. 21. The male belt with specific ornament made of metal details

Waigali, 1965 // by W. P. Thesiger

@ Pitt Rivers Museum (UK)

E.Kate, 1885
by Col. R. G. Woodthorpe
Waigali, ca 2019
@ Pitt Rivers Museum (UK)
Kushan // Yatsenko 2001, pl. 12 courtesy of Dr. Hazratshah
Edelberg, Jones 1979, 107f, pl. 101
 Fig. 22. The textile belt with
a complex knot and hanging ends

Indo-Scythians
Yatsenko 2001, pl. 14
E.Kate, 1929
by B. S. Guha
@ Musée du quai Branly (FR)

E.Kate priest’s
wife // by R.C.F. E.Kate, 1885
Schomberg, 1935 Lockhart, Woodthorpe E.Kate, 1919 // by Lt.-Col. G. J. Davis
Jones 1983, pl. 19 1889, p. 319f, pl. 89 @ National Army Museum (UK)
 Fig. 23. The female gaiters made of variegated fabrics

E.Kate, bef. 1922 Gambiri, bef. 1840

based on a photo by by Imam Bakhsh
Col. J. G. Edwardes

Ashkun, 1960 // by S. Jones E.Kate, bef. 1922 The Sogdian woman-warrior, Penjikent, section XXI-1
 Fig. 24a. Pectorals & torques of Eastern Hindukush area

E.Kate priest family Janata 1981, Taf. 30 Pectorals from Swat valley.
by R. C. F. Schomberg, 1935 The Kafirs preferred such torques & pectorals. Such shapes were not common in Kafiristan.
Jones 1983, pl. 20
 Fig. 24b. Pectorals & torques of Eastern Hindukush area

the effigy of W.Kate

Gambiri of Tregam @ Musée Guimet & BnF (FR) @ National Museum (AF)
by Imam Bakhsh, bef. 1840 the effigies of E.Kate @ National Army Museum (UK) by S. Jones, 1960
Fig. 25a. Pectorals & torques of the ancient Iranian World
Yatsenko 2019, pl. 17
Fig. 25b. Pectorals & torques of the ancient Iranian World

Persepolis Arzhan-2 Khotan Antiquities 1960

Fig. 26. The kneecaps of trousers
Edelberg 1960, fig. 2, 4, 11, 12
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