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 Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 4 Fig. 5

A Light-Weight, Two-Horsepower Motor Installed in a Stanch 18-Foot

Canoe will Increase the Range and Utility of Such a Craft; the
Construction Shown Is Simple and within the Capabilities of a Careful
Novice of Fair Mechanical Skill. A View of the Stern from Above is Shown
in Fig. 1. The Engine is Shown Mounted on the Engine Bed, and near the
Stern the Shaft Block is Shown. A Partial Sectional View is Shown in Fig.
2. The Relation of the Engine and Bed, Shaft and Fittings, Shaft Block,
Shaft Log, and Rudder are Shown. The Construction Diagram, Fig. 3, is
Described in Detail in the Text. A Larger-Scale View and a Section of the
Shaft Block are Indicated in Fig. 4, and Fig. 5 Illustrates the Engine Bed
with Dimensions and Fastening Holes

A detail of the shaft bearing R is shown in Fig. 4. The hole to

receive the shaft must be bored accurately, and the use of the
template, as with the boring of the shaft log, is advisable. Flanged
metal bearings are provided to take up the wear in the bearing block.
The method of fastening the block, as shown in the detail view,
insures a rigid bearing with a minimum of holes through the bottom
of the canoe. A U-bolt, T, binds the double angle brace U and the
block firmly to the keel. The angles of the brace are fixed into the
sides of the canoe with bolts, and a bolt at the stern end of the block
supports it further. The block should be placed so that it will bear on
three ribs and must be fitted to the curve of the canoe.
The rudder is made of sheet metal supported on a rod or pipe. Its
general dimensions are shown in Fig. 2. The fan of the rudder is
riveted to its supports and rests in a bearing strip of ¹⁄₄ by 1-in. strap
iron, which is shaped as a guard for the propeller. The upper bearing
of the rudder post is formed from a strip of iron, bolted to the stern,
and the upper guide bar, to which the ropes are attached, is cut from
an iron strip.
 The propeller is 8 in. in diameter, but may be installed of a size
suitable to the power, speed, and type of the motor used. The
stuffing box V, Fig. 2, the bearings for the bearing block R, the intake
strainer W, the exhaust outlet X, Fig. 1, and the shaft coupling Y are
all of manufactured types that may be purchased of marine-supply
houses.
The intake strainer W is placed in the bottom directly below the
pump Z. The exhaust outlet X is placed above the water line, and a
muffler should be installed to avoid noise from the exhaust
explosions. The exhaust may be conducted under water or to a point
near the stern. No indication is given for the placing of the gasoline
tank, the supply pipes, electrical-energy source, and wiring. The tank
may be placed in the stern of the canoe high enough to provide a
good flow. A magneto may be used to give current for the sparking
circuit, or batteries may be provided. They may be placed at any
point convenient, and should be incased in a waterproof container.
In assembling the parts care must be taken not to wrench the shaft
or other pieces out of line, and in general, it is well to fix
nonadjustable parts solidly when they are fitted into place. This
applies particularly to the engine bed and the shaft log. The bearing
block may be adjusted vertically by adding packing, or by reducing
the lower surface. The rudder and its fittings may be made in regular
course, but should not be fitted until the power unit and driving
mechanism is in place finally. The propeller may be protected from
possible injury by laying it aside until needed. All the openings in the
hull through which bolts or other fastenings are placed should be
packed with red lead or other waterproof packing. The working parts
and finished metal surfaces should be oiled or greased thoroughly as
the parts are assembled, and the unfinished metal parts painted with
red lead. This will protect them from moisture and aid in the smooth
operation of the mechanism.
 How to Make a Fluorescent Screen
Many experimenters have occasion to use a fluorescent screen,
particularly those interested in X-ray work. Such a device is quite
expensive if purchased, and may be made as follows:
Mix 1 oz. each of common salt, sodium tungstate, and calcium
chloride. Place the mixture in a crucible and heat it dull red in a coal
fire, for several hours. It will melt into a clear liquid, and should then
be removed and permitted to cool. The liquid will crystallize into a
hard glasslike mass. Break this out of the crucible and crush it into
small pieces. Put them into a jar of clear water. The sodium chloride
resulting from the chemical change by heating, will gradually
dissolve and the calcium tungstate will fall to the bottom in fine
crystals. Wash this precipitate until all trace of the salt disappears;
then pour the crystals upon a sheet of filter or blotting paper to dry.
After drying, place them in a mortar and grind them to a fine powder,
when they will be ready for use.
To make the screen proper, procure a piece of thin white
cardboard of the size desired. The calendered board known as
three-ply is satisfactory. Paint the cardboard on one side with a thick
solution of gum arabic in water, or better still, with celluloid dissolved
in amyl acetate. Permit the gum to become “tacky” before dusting
with the chemical. The latter process requires care, to produce an
even layer on the cardboard, and it is advisable to practice with
ordinary salt before attempting it on the cardboard for the screen.
The calcium tungstate should be placed in a dry jar, and a piece of
fine muslin fixed over the mouth of it. The chemical may be dusted
over the surface with this sieve jar.
Shake off the superfluous crystals and permit the screen to dry
thoroughly. Fasten a piece of mica, or sheet celluloid, over the
sensitized surface to prevent damage to it. Mount the sensitized
cardboard in a wooden frame of suitable size and arrange a hood
around its edges to cut out unnecessary light. The sensitive side of
the screen is, of course, held toward the observer when the
apparatus is used.—Contributed by Chester Keene, Hoboken, N. J.
 Preventing Wire Mesh from Rising between
Fence Posts
Fences which inclose pastures for hogs, or other smaller animals,
are usually stretched to give rigidity and strength. Often the
adjustment of the wire, after being put into place, causes it to rise
from the ground between the fence posts, permitting the animals to
escape. An effective method of holding the wire close to the ground
is shown in the sketch. A peg, notched near its upper end, is driven
into the ground so that the lower edge of the wire mesh is held fast in
the notch.—Contributed by O. B. Laurent, New Roads, La.
The Notched Stake Holds the
Wire Mesh Down between the
Posts Where It Has a Tendency
to Rise from the Ground
 Jig-Saw Table for Vise
Those who have occasional work to be done with a jig saw will find
the simple device shown in the sketch convenient. It provides a table
for sawing light work. By holding it in a vise, as shown, a rigid
support may be had. The table is made of a rectangular piece of ³⁄₄-
in. wood, 8 in. wide and 10 in. long. At one end, a strip, 1 in. square,
is attached for clamping in the vise. The other end is notched to
provide a place for the saw while in use.—Contributed by Victor A.
Rettich, New York, N. Y.

The Jig-Saw Table Provides a Rigid Support for Light Fretwork

 An Emergency Dark-Room Light

The traveling man who “lives in a suitcase” and at the same time
wishes to enjoy the pleasures of amateur photography sometimes
experiences difficulty in developing films in a hotel room. Soup plates
borrowed from the steward, or even the bowl pitcher and the ice-
water pitcher in the room, can be used for development, but it is very
hard to improvise a ruby lamp. My emergency lamp is a small vest-
pocket flash lamp over which two yellow envelopes, one inside of the
other, are slipped, as shown. The lower edges are cut perfectly
square and rest on the table, or shelf, in the closet, and all white light
is excluded. At night, the shades may be drawn, and a yellow-paper
sack may be tied around the electric light.—Contributed by J. L.
Pinkston, Granite Hill, Ga.
 An Ice Creeper

The illustration shows a one-piece ice creeper for the heel of a

boot or shoe. It is made from sheet steel with the arms bent up to
receive a strap for buckling it in place on the boot heel. The zigzag
cuts in the bottom part are turned down for engaging the ice.—
Contributed by Chas. S. Snell, Lewiston, Me.
¶In machine work a way must be provided for removing dowel pins
before they are driven in place.
 Waterproofing for Fish Lines

Dissolve ¹⁄₂ oz. of orange shellac in ¹⁄₂ pt. of alcohol, and add 1
teaspoonful of Venice turpentine, the same quantity of raw linseed
oil, and 2 oz. tincture of benzoin. Shake well, and set in a varnish
can in hot water.
Soak the coiled line in the varnish for two hours, then hang it up to
dry. Thin the varnish with alcohol, and repeat the dipping. When the
line is dry, rub it down well with a wool rag greased with tallow. Silk
lines treated in this manner are pliable, and the fibers of the silk are
so united by the varnish that the strength of the line is almost
doubled.
 Making Chest Lock More Secure

As a rule, ordinary chest locks cannot be relied upon, since almost

any kind of a similar key will unlock them. I found a good remedy by
taking out the pin on which the key fits, and making a new one twice
as long as the one removed, then drilling a hole in the key deep
enough to fit over the new pin. In case the pin extends too far, a
piece of wood block, with a hole in it to admit the key, can be
fastened over it to prevent bending the pin. No ordinary key will pass
on the pin far enough to turn the lock.—Contributed by Chas. G.
England, Washington, Pa.
 Driving Screws in Hard Wood
Keep the supply of screws in a box containing a small amount of
powdered soapstone. Shake the box occasionally, and the screws
will be dusted with the powder, which acts as a lubricant. This is a
much cleaner and more convenient method than the ordinary one of
rubbing each screw on a bar of soap before driving it in hard wood.
 Paddling Your Own Canoe
by
Stillman Taylor
PART I—
Kinds of Canoes

Theprose,
charm of the birchen canoe has long been sung in verse and
and while the bark that the Indian used has been
supplanted by a more perfect type of modern manufacture, the
popularity of this, the most graceful of water craft, has increased with
years, until today we find the canoe the choice of thousands of
recreation seekers who paddle about in park lakes and quiet
streams, or spend their vacations in cruising down rivers and other
attractive waterways—sometimes within the environs of towns and
villages, and again dipping paddles in the wilderness streams of the
far north. True, the modern canoe is a distinct product of the
twentieth century, and while it is so largely used at summer resorts, it
nevertheless retains all the good points of the old, while embodying
numerous improvements which fit it even better for wilderness travel
than the Indian model after which it was patterned. The noteworthy
increase in the number of canoeists in the past dozen years is good
evidence that this natty craft is fast coming into its own, and as more
and more outdoor men and women understand its possibilities and
limitations and become proficient in handling it, the long-rooted fear
and distrust with which the uninformed public regard the canoe, will
pass away. As a matter of fact, accidents ever follow in the wake of
ignorance and carelessness, and while there are very few expert
gunners injured by firearms, and still fewer experienced canoeists
drowned, there are numerous sad accidents constantly occurring to
the reckless and foolhardy, who do not know how to handle a
weapon, nor understand the first thing about paddling a canoe. Let
us consider then, the practical side of the subject, the choice of a
suitable canoe and the knack of handling it in a safe and efficient
manner.
If one would experience in full measure the many-sided charm of
paddling, he should get a good canoe. Unlike other and heavier
water craft, the canoe is a lightly balanced and responsive
conveyance, which may be cranky and dangerous, or safe and
stable, according to the model, the skill of the builder, and the
dexterity of the paddler. There are canoes and canoes, of varying
models and sizes, and constructed of many materials, and while all
may serve as a means of getting about in the water, the paddling
qualities include numerous little idiosyncrasies which serve to
differentiate canoes as well as men. In fact, this light and graceful
craft may be properly viewed as the highest type of boat building,
since it must be fashioned strong but light; it must be steady when
going light; capable of carrying comparatively heavy loads; draw little
water, and it must be honestly constructed of good material to stand
up under the hard usage which every canoe is subjected to, whether
used for summer paddling, or upon long hunting and shooting trips.
Three types of canoes are in common use by experienced
canoeists, the birch-bark, the all-wood, and the canvas-covered
cedar canoe. The birch-bark, by reason of its rougher workmanship,
is slow under the paddle, is easily injured, and it grows heavier and
more difficult to handle every time it is used. The all-wood canoe is
most expensive to buy, and though swift under the paddle, is too
easily injured and too difficult to repair for rough and ready use. The
cedar-planked canoe which is covered with filled and painted canvas
is for many reasons the best all-around craft-attractive enough for
park use, and stout enough for use in rapid water and for cruising in
northern lakes and rivers.

How to Select a Birch-Bark Canoe

The Indian-made birch-bark canoe costs about $1 a foot and is

fashioned of birch bark over an ash, or spruce, frame. The bark is
not nailed to the frame, but is sewed together with boiled spruce, or
tamarack, roots, split to a suitable size. To give the proper shape to
the canoe a double row of stakes are firmly planted in the ground
and the spruce frame is sprung between them. The bark is put on
inside out, and the work of sewing together is done while the bark is
fresh, or immediately after it is stripped from the tree. The seams are
afterward made water-tight by smearing well with spruce gum, which
hardens quickly and makes a fairly good joint. The Indian model is a
good one so far as the freeboard, width of beam, and flaring stems
are concerned, but the curved bottom makes it extremely cranky and
dangerous for the novice to handle. Be sure to see that the birch-
bark canoe is fashioned with a flat, straight bottom, which makes the
craft steadier and less inclined to veer about under the stroke of the
paddle. In an expert’s hands the round bottom will be found a
decided advantage, making it faster to paddle and more easily
turned and steered in swift and rough water. Many prefer the three-
piece bottom, but the bottom made of a single piece of bark is
stronger and less likely to open up and leak. All birch canoes will
warp and twist somewhat, and it is practically impossible to find one
that is straight and true. The birch-bark canoe has many limitations
and not a few weaknesses, but if one has the good luck to find a
good one, and treats it fairly, it will prove a safe and dry craft for
many hundreds of miles’ travel. Of course, one must carry a kettle of
pitch for making repairs, and be content to travel somewhat slower
than with modern canoes, but this may not be a disadvantage. Birch
canoes have no seats, as the Indian kneels when paddling, but a low
thwart, or seat, is easy to put in at the bow and stern, if one prefers
the white man’s paddling position.

All-Wood or Peterborough Canoe

This type of craft is much used in Canada along the St. Lawrence
River, and to a much less extent by American sportsmen, owing to
its higher cost, and its tendency to break and cause a leak. Of
course, the all-wood canoe is a good craft, but everything
considered, there can be no question in the minds of canoeists who
are acquainted with all types of canoes, that the all-cedar or
basswood craft is less dependable than the canvas-covered cedar
canoe. The Peterborough type—so called from a Canadian city of
this name where many wood canoes are made—with its relatively
low ends and straight sides with but little sheer and tumble home, is
the model commonly used by practically all manufacturers of the all-
wood canoe. While a boat of this kind can be, and often is, used in
rough-water lake paddling as well as in wilderness travel, the all-
wood canoe is better suited for club use, and in the wider and more
quiet-flowing streams and lakes.

The Best All-Around Craft, for Two Men and a Reasonable Amount of Camp
Duffle, Is a Canvas-Covered Cedar Canoe, 16 Feet Long, 32-Inch Beam, and
12 Inches Amidships, Weighing About 60 Pounds
 The Canvas-Covered Cedar Canoe

The canvas-covered cedar canoe, when rightly made of the best

material, is by all odds the best paddling craft afloat, being strong
and light, with a hull so smooth that it is swift to paddle, while the
mode of construction makes a very stiff craft, which will not warp or
twist out of shape. Moreover, it will stand a vast amount of hard
usage and abuse, while repairs are quickly and neatly done by the
stream side. In the making of a first-class canoe of this type, the ribs
are first steamed and then bent and fitted over a solid form; cedar
being used for the ribs and planking; spruce for the gunwales, and
white ash, or oak, for the stems and thwarts. In a canoe built
according to my instructions, each plank runs to the full length of the
craft and all are beveled and lapped together, thus making a
perfectly smooth and almost water-tight canoe, before the canvas is
cemented on its surface. The canvas is thoroughly waterproofed
before it is put on, then it is drawn tightly over the planking, and
several coats of filler and the final finish of paint are applied, after
which it is rubbed down.
The well-made canvas-covered canoe is, if properly designed, a
pretty good facsimile of the representative Indian model in that it
possesses all the good points of the birch-bark canoe, but is more
substantially constructed, of better and more durable material, and
more finely finished. In making the selection, it is necessary to pay a
fair price to obtain a good craft, and while various manufacturers
supply canoes of similar types at different prices, some of them are
so inferior that they will scarcely stand a season’s use. Of course,
the use to which a canoe is put will influence the selection. If the
craft is wanted for long service on hunting and fishing trips, a high-
grade canoe of plain finish is the logical choice. If the canoe is for
club use, a highly finished craft with mahogany trimmings may be
preferred. A canoe for occasional use on some quiet lake or small
stream may be selected from the cheaper kinds, which will, no
doubt, answer every purpose. However, most manufacturers list
what they call an “A” and a “B” grade. The “A” grade provides
selected-cedar ribs and planking; oak for gunwales, stems, thwarts
and seats selected from the finest material, and the finish the best
that can be procured, while the “B” grade is identical in model,
canvas and paint, but the material not quite so clear or free from
minor defects, though for all practical purposes it will render as much
service and give fully as much satisfaction as the first, or “A,” grade.
A little saving may be made by selecting the second-grade canoe,
having most of the money invested in the canoe and not so much in
the finer finishings. The ordinary construction provides for the
ordinary solid topwale, but the open gunwale is sometimes preferred,
because the openings make washing easy, all sand and dirt running
out freely between the wales. This construction detail is supplied by
most manufacturers, when specified, at a slight additional cost.