Lab 1-8

© Md Samiul Alom
Lecturer & Course Coordinator, Testing of Textiles

Dept. of Textile & Fashion Management, ISTT
Practical
B. Sc in Textile Engineering (Specialization in Wet Processing), NITER
Email: samiul.istt.edu@gmail.com, samiul_dtfm@istt.edu.bd
Experiment – 1: Identification of different textile fibers by burning test.
Introduction:
Testing of textile products and raw materials is very important to ensure product quality. So the
testing of textile materials must be started from the root level. The burning test is one of the most
popular tests of fiber. Different types of fiber show different characteristics in the burning test. So,
on the basis of this behavior, we can identify fiber and fabric composition as well.
Objective:
▪ To know different fiber characteristics.

▪ know the effects of fire on different fabrics made of different fibers.
▪ To choose material for a purpose.
Instrument:
▪ Candle
▪ Multi fibered fabric
▪ Gas lighter
▪ Rubber pad
▪ Tweezer
▪ Scissor
Methodology:
First of all, the given sample should be cut into pieces of different fibers. Then the cut fabric will
be clamped in the tweezer and will be brought towards the candle fire. The actions and reactions
of fabric must be noted down.
Working Procedure:
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of textile fiber through burning test
Observation:
After burning Crush ability of

Names of fiber Smell
effect burned fiber
Wool Hair burning smell Curly Powder ash
Acrylic Skin burning smell Curly Powder ash
Plastic burning
Polyester Melt Melt
smell
Nylon Very strong smell Melt Melt
Cotton Paper burning smell Rapid burning Fly ash
Acetate Smell of vinegar Curly Fly ash
Pre-caution:
Conclusion:
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Experiment – 2: Determination of Fiber fineness by air flow method.
Air Flow Method to determine Fiber Fineness
Introduction:
The fiber fineness is expressed in weight per unit length or length per weight. According to
“Textile Institute”, the fineness of cotton, silk and manufactured fibers is usually expressed in
terms of average linear density.
Theory
Principle: In this method, fiber fineness is measured by air flow. If large amount of air is blown,
the fiber will be coarse and if small amount of air is blown, the fiber will be fine. The method
based on this principle.
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Objective:
▪ To know about the fiber fineness
▪ To know about the air flow method
Atmospheric condition:
To condition in which we are giving to heat or perform this experiment is the room temperature
was 24.90 C and Moisture regain was 51%.
Instrument:
• Cotton fiber sample

• Weight box
• Fiber fineness tester
Working Principle
1. 4 gm of sample is taken and balanced properly

2. The sample is opened very well and fiber are separated and randomized individually
3. The sample placed into the compression chamber.
4. The fiber compression plunger is inserted and locked in its place by twisting the foot
pedal is operate to allow air inside
5. Then take the reading on the machine and calculated to microniare unit
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Observation table:
Serial Sample
MIC Mean difference SD CV%
no weight
01 4 2.71 0.0001
02 4 2.69 2.70 0.0001 0.012 0.45%
03 4 2.69 0.0001
∑(̅ )=0.0003
Result: The micronaire value of selected cotton fiber respectively 2.71, 2.69, 2.69. So, it is a very
fine. Because we know 0-3 is very fine fiber.
Precaution:
1. The sample should be balanced properly according to machine tolerance

2. Take the reading properly and calculated the CV.
3. The machine should be operated carefully The sample should be opened very well before
placed into chamber
Conclusion:
In this experiment we can know about the air flow method and find the fineness of fiber. This kind
of knowledge helps us in the future and our job sector.
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Practical
Experiment – 3: Determination of yarn count & CSP by wrap reel and

balance method.
Introduction:
Yarn count: The yarn count is a numerical expression which defines its fineness or coarseness.
It also expresses weather the yarn is thick or thin. A definition is given by the textile institute –
“Count is a number which indicates the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass of yarn.”
……………………………Length in yard × Weight Unit

Cotton Count = …………………………………………………………………………….
…………………………….840 Yard × Weight in pound
Objectives of Experiment:
1. To know about yarn count .

2. To know about wrap reel & analytical balance.
3. To know how to determine the count by wrap reel & analytical balance.
Theory:
Wrap Reel: A wrap reel or skein winder is a device for measuring yarn and making it into hanks
of a standard size. The reel is of a standard size and its revolutions are counted as the yarn is
wrapped around it. Typically, a set number of revolutions will be used so that the hank is of a
standard size — a skein or lea. For example, a skein of cotton would be 80 turns on a reel of 54
inches circumference, making 120 yards, while the standard length for wool worsted would be 80
yards.
The tension of the yarn as it was wound onto the reel was important because it would be elastic
and so a standard tension was required to ensure uniformity. For a given reel, this would be
determined by the friction of the setup and so the test hanks would be made and measured in other
ways to calibrate the device.
Wrap reel are two types on the basis of driving method:
1. Hand Drive
2. Power Drive.
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Fig: Motor drive wrap reel
Analytical Balance: An analytical balance (often called a “lab balance”) is a class of balance
designed to measure small mass in the sub-milligram range. The measuring pan of an analytical
balance (0.1 mg or better) is inside a transparent enclosure with doors so that dust does not collect
and so any air currents in the room do not affect the balance’s operation. This enclosure is often
called a draft shield. The use of a mechanically vented balance safety enclosure, which has
uniquely designed acrylic airfoils, allows a smooth turbulence-free airflow that prevents balance
fluctuation and the measure of mass down to 1 μg without fluctuations or loss of product. Also,
the sample must be at room temperature.
Data Collection:
Weight(lbs)
Sl. Length Average
Weight(gm) Gm Count
No (Yard) Count
Wt/453.6
01 120 2.00 o.0044 32.46
02 120 2.10 0.0046 31.05
03 120 2.00 0.0044 32.46 31.48
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04 120 2.15 0.0047 30.40
05 120 2.10 0.0046 31.05
Calculation:
………. ……Length in yard × Weight Unit

Count = ……………………………………………………………………….
……. ………840 Yard × Weight in pound
….. …120×1
= ……………………
….840×0.0044
= 32.46
By the same process another are calculate and calculate average count.
Result:
The cotton count is 31.48
Yarn Count Determination Procedure:
1. Make lea by Wrap reel.

2. Weight the lee by analytic balance.
3. Convert the weight gram to pound.
4. Now the data are put equation (1)
5. Now calculate the count by the equation.
6. Now average count is calculate which is cotton count of this sample.
Precaution:
• To maintain proper tension of yarn when yarn are wind on wrap reel.
• Weight is taken very carefully.
Conclusion:
It is the very easy process but there need more time than another process.
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Practical
Experiment – 4: Determination of yarn count by Bessley’s balance method.
Theory:
Yarn count: The yarn count is a numerical expression which defines its fineness or coarseness.
It also expresses weather the yarn is thick or thin. A definition is given by the textile institute –
“Count is a number which indicates the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass of yarn.”
To determine the thread count or yarn count we use five instruments with wrap reel & analytical
balance. Beesley balance is one of them. It is working on the principle of fixed weight and fixed
length system
Objectives of Experiment:
1. To know about thread count or yarn count.

2. To know about template & beesley balance.
3. To know how to determine the thread count by template & beesley balance.
Required Instrument:
1. Template
2. Beesleys Balance
3. Knife
4. Marking pen
5. Needle
Template:
Template is a length measuring instrument which contains eight arms. When a sample has short
length (Fabric) which we cannot determine by the wrap reel then we use template by using that
we can determine the length.
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Fig: Beesleys Balance
The following length is used to determine the count:
• Cotton: 4.32 Inch

• ½ cotton: 2.16 Inch
• Linen: 1.543 Inch
• Wool: 1.315 Inch
• Worsted: 2.88 Inch
Beesleys Balance:
Beesleys yarn balance consists of a pillar A which carries a cross beam B, fulcrumed at knife
edge at the point G (See figure in above). At one end the cross beam is a hook E upon which the
yarn to be tested can be placed. The other end of the beam tappers to a point C. When the beam
is in balance, the pointer will coincide with the detum line. The pillar is mounted on the base.
The whole instrument is leveled by a leveled screw at one end of the base. The cross has a small
notch at the point D to take the counter weight or rider.
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Data Collection:
Sample No Amount of yarn Yarn Count Average Count
01 29 29
02 30 30
03 31 31
04 30 30
05 30 30
30s
06 29 29
07 30 30
08 31 31
09 30 30
10 30 30
Result: The cotton sample fabric warp thread count is 30s
Working Procedure:
1. Collect sample by appropriate sampling method.

2. This Sample conditioning at testing atmosphere.
3. Marked the fabric by using template
4. Cut that’s fabric by knife according to the marking.
5. The pointer is set directly opposite to the detum line, with no material and counter weight in
their proper places, by adjusting the leveling screw. The counter weight for the particular
length which is supplied with the instrument is chosen and suspended at the notch D. (For
full cotton the large rider is placed in the notch and for ½ cotton small rider is placed)
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6. Now yarn is withdrawn from sample and placed sample hook until the pointer comes in
level with the detum line.
7. At that stage the threads are taken out and counted which givers directly the cont of yarn
teken for testing.
8. There 30 threads in the sample hook at the balanced condition so the count of the yarn is 30s
Precaution:
• We should yarn withdrawn from fabric very carefully.

• Marked fabric very carefully.
Conclusion:
It is the very easy process but if we cannot use template properly according to thread type and
idle weight than the result will be faulty.
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© Md Samiul Alom
Practical
Experiment – 5: Determination of twist by twist tester of a given yarn sample.
Theory: “Twist is the measure of the spiral turns given to a yarn in order to hold the constituent
fibres or threads together”. (Shinkle)
“Twist is the spiral disposition of the component of a yarn, which is result of relative rotation of
the extenemities of the yarn. Twist per inch is the number to term per unit length of yarn”.
Twist mainly two types. They are-

• Z- twist
• S- twist
Z-twist :
The yarn has Z twist if the fibres inclined to the axis of the yarn conform in direction of slope to the central
portion of the letter Z.
S-twist :
A single yarn has S twist if, when it is held in the vertical position, the fibres inclined to the axis
of the yarn conform in direction of slope to the central portion of the letter S.
Untwist and retwist method:

The tension-type twist tester is working on the principle of twist contraction. This method is also
called untwist-re-twist method. When the level of twist increases, the length of yarn is contracted,
and when the twist is removed, the length is increased; if all the twist is removed then the length
reaches its maximum value. This method is used on equipment in which one end of the yarn is
attached to a counter and the other is attached to a weight-pointer. When the yarn is untwisted, the
pointer identifies the slight change in length. When the yarn is untwisting, the length of yarn is
increased and the pointer moves from right to left; and when all the twist is removed then the
length of yarn is at the maximum and the pointer does not move further from right to left but the
rotating jaw continuously rotates in the same direction; further rotation causes length contraction
due to twist insertion, at that point, before length contraction, the untwisted twist is the yarn twist.
The level of twist is indicated by the instrument. This method is suitable for single yarns.
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Practical
Fig: Tension-type twist tester
The tension-type twist tester as shown above has two jaws (fixed and rotating) for fixing the yarn.
The position of the non-rotating jaw is variable according to the gauge length. The pointer
connected to the rotating jaw moves over a scale having two graduations.
Working Procedure:
The two discs are disengaged from the worm and are rotated such that the pointer and zero mark
coincide with the index mark. The yarn is first gripped in the fixed clamp. After being led through
the rotating jaw, the yarn is pulled through until the pointer lies opposite a zero line on a small
quadrant scale. The jaw is then closed. At this stage, the specimen is under a small tension and has
a nominal length (gauge length).
As the twist is removed the yarn gets extended and the pointer reaches a vertical position.
Eventually all the twist is taken out, but the jaw is kept rotating in the same direction until sufficient
twist has been inserted to bring the pointer back to the zero mark. When the pointer coincides with
the mark, the dial reading is noted and the twists per inch can be calculated using the following
formula:
Twist per inch = dial reading / (gauge length × 2)
Sample preparation:
▪ From each packages, an equal number of specimens of adequate length shall be selected from
different parts of the package.
▪ The exact length may be either 350 or 500 mm, and the total quantity of test specimens is
10% of the test samples available.
▪ Before cutting each test specimen from the package, a length of about 10 m of yarn should
be discarded.
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▪ While drawing the specimens from the packages, care should be taken to avoid any changes
in the twist of yarn.
Working Procedure:
1. The yarn specimen is placed on the yarn stand; keep the yarn stand on the left-hand side of
the instrument.
2. Draw the yarn through the yarn guide which is in straight-line to the yarn bobbin, and draw
through the instrument’s yarn guide, which is
fixed at the tail end on the left side of the instrument.
3. Depress the center screw of the disc yarn gripper using the thumb and lift the outer cone by
force and middle finger of the left hand; then catch
the yarn by right hand, drawing through the opening of the disc yarn gripper and pull the yarn
to required length (i.e., slightly more than the gauge length). Then arrest the yarn by simply
releasing the outer cone.
4. After applying correct tension, release the hand from the revolving shaft gently and cut the
protruding yarn by a sharp knife. Now, the specimen
yarn is ready for test.
5. Press the ‘Start’ button. Regulate the motor RPM to set the appropriate speed. While setting
motor speed, the tester should ensure that the
following parameters are followed:
▪ Set the motor speed at half-speed of maximum speed at which the motor can rotate; this
is specifically applicable to all cotton yarns.
▪ Set the motor speed at 75% speed for high-twist filament yarns.
Data Table
Result
Conclusion:
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Practical
Experiment – 6: Determination of GSM of a fabric (woven & knit).
Introduction:
The GSM of fabric is one kind of specification of fabric which is very important for a textile
engineer for understanding and production of fabric. ‘GSM’ means ‘Gram per square meter’ that
is the weight of fabric in gram per one square meter. By this we can compare the fabrics in unit
area which is heavier and which is lighter.
Objectives:
1. To calculate the GSM of the given woven and knitted fabric.

2. To compare the GSM of them.
Theory:
The weight of a fabric can be expressed in two ways, either as the ‘weight per unit area’ or the
‘weight per unit length’; the former is self explanatory but the latter requires a little explanation
because the weight of a unit length of fabric will obviously be affected by its width. In woven
fabric, the weight per unit length is usually referred to as the ‘weight per running yard’. It is
necessary therefore to know the agreed standard width upon which the weight per running yard is
based. Usually this width depends upon the width of loom. Before coming the term ‘GSM’ there
was another term called ‘lb/100 yards’. This expression is used by British Standard. For measuring
this there are a template and a quadrant balance. The template area is 1/100 square yards of which
each arm is 1/10 yards in length. For measuring GSM, a GSM cutter is used to cut the fabric and
weight is taken in balance. Both of these measurement and method is equally used for both woven
and knitted fabrics.
Apparatus:
1. Template
2. Quadrant balance
3. Scissor
4. GSM cutter
5. Electric balance.
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Fig: GSM cutter and balance
Sample:
1. Finished cotton woven fabric

2. Finished cotton knitted fabric.
Atmosphere:
1. Temperature – 25oC and relative humidity – 67%

2. Standard atmosphere: Temperature – 20oC and relative humidity – 65%.
Machine Description:
GSM cutter machine are highly precise fabric cutting equipments and highly demanded as well as
appreciated in fabric industries. One time investment life long hustle free running comes with
complete metal parts, no workable knife or rubber pads involved. GSM round cutter offered by us
come filleted with precision finished and superior grade aluminium and brass blades as well as
other associated metal parts that ensure uniform cutting of woven, non woven as well as knitted
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fabrics. The specialised cutters finding usage in theprocess of determining the GSM of the product
and besides fabric cutting carpet, paper products and board products. Further as these cutters are
freely rotatable, locking device which is engaged while the cutter is not in use.
Working Principle:
1. For measuring with quadrant balance at first we should cut the fabric sample according to
the template area. By this way cut 5 samples.
2. Now weight these samples in pounds by quadrant balance according to100 yards scale.
3. By this way we get the weight in pound per 100 square yard fabric.
4. For measuring GSM, we should cut the fabric sample by GSM cutter. By this way we cut
5 sample.
5. Now weight these samples by electric balance in grams.
6. By this way we get the weight in gram per one square meter fabric.
7. Now find out the average of these found weights.
Calculation:
For sample 01, GSM = Sample weight in gm x 100
= 2.55 x 100
= 255
= 2.25 x 100
= 225
= 2.36 x 100
= 236
= 2.45 x 100
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= 245
= 2.50 x 100
= 250
So, Average GSM = (255+225+236+245+250)/5
= 242.2
Result:
The weight of the fabric is 242.2 GSM.
Conclusion:
The instrument is very popular in the textile industries to measure GSM of fabric. It can use easily
to determine accurate GSM for non woven and woven fabric.
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Experiment – 7: Determination of fabric shrinkage/extension & spatiality.
Introduction: Fabric shrinkage/extension refers to the dimensional changes that occur in textiles
due to various factors such as moisture, temperature, and mechanical stress. Understanding fabric
shrinkage/extension is crucial for designers, manufacturers, and consumers as it affects the fit,
comfort, and durability of garments. Spatiality, on the other hand, relates to the distortion of fabric
weave or pattern during shrinkage/extension. This lab report aims to explore and quantify the
fabric shrinkage/extension and spatiality characteristics for a range of fabric samples
Materials: Fabric samples (different types and weaves)

Ruler or measuring tape
Weighing scale
Water bath
Mechanical Stretching Appareatus
Procedure:
Fabric Sample Preparation

Select various fabric samples with different compositions and weaves
Cut fabric samples into identical dimensions, ensuring each sample has a sufficient area for
analysis
Shrinkage/Extension Measurement:
Measure the initial length and width of each fabric sample using a ruler or measuring tape
Record the initial dimensions
Subject the fabric samples to a controlled shrinking/extending process, such as immersing them in
water at a specific temperature or using a mechanical stretching apparatus.
After the process, remove excess moisture from the samples and measure the final length and width
of each sample.
Calculate the percentage change in dimensions using the formula: Shrinkage/Extension (%) =
((Final Dimension - Initial Dimension) / Initial Dimension) *100
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Data Analysis
Tabulate the shrinkage/extension measurements and spatiality observations for each fabric sample
Calculate the average shrinkage/extension percentage for each sample
Analyze the data to identify trends, differences between fabric types, and potential influencing
factors
Results and Discussion:

Present the data obtained from the experiments, including the measurements of
shrinkage/extension and the observations of spatiality. Discuss the trends observed in the data,
considering the fabric types, compositions, and weaving patterns
Analyze the potential factors contributing to shrinkage/extension and spatiality, such as fiber type,
moisture content, and mechanical stress. Discuss the implications of the findings for garment
construction, textile applications, and consumer satisfaction
Conclusion:
Experiment – 8: Determination of color fastness to rubbing of a dyed sample.
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Practical
Introduction:
The resistance of colorizing matters of the substrate towards chemical, physical, influence and
other agencies of daily use expression of fastness. When colorfastness is measured against rubbing
them .It is known as color fastness to rubbing resistance to color fastness against rubbing.
Objects:
• to know about crack meter
• to determine the rubbing fastness on color
Apparatus:
• Crock meter
• Distilled water
• Sample
• Crocking scale
• Grey scale
• Emery paper
Machine description:
All the parts of machine is suitable on a base. A standing device is contacted with base. There is
an emery paper on the base to support the sample on pinned specimen holder is used on the emery
paper to base the sample. At the right side of the standing device. Operating handle is situated at
the left side a finger arm is placed a loading unit is situated on the finger arm lower of the finger
arm a danger is attracted. There is spring is used to hole the crocking cloth.
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crock meter
Working procedure:
Dry crocking test:-
First we take the sample of (4×1.5)
↓
Then the fabric is placed on the emery paper
↓
Pinned specimen holder is used to fixed the fabric
↓
After that crocking cloth is about 3×5 cm has settled with finger by spring clip
↓
Loading unit is applied put the finger pinned the operating handle is operated by using of hand
↓
We give 10 stocks the direction of every stock is 1 sec
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↓
Then the sample is collected of composed with grey scale
↓
Crocking cloth is collected and compound with scale
Wet crocking:-
In the case of wet crocking test crocking cloth in wetted with distilled water and excess water is
sequences that it contains its own mass of water
Then go on the process same of also
Results:-
Dry -1/2
Wet- 4/5
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Color fastness
Remarks:-
1. Sample fabric dimension must be (4×1.5)
2. When the fabric set on the every paper there should not any crease on fold1 1
3. 1 stroke must be taken in every second
4. For the wet crocking test, the sample must be wetted and excess water should be
sequenced.
Experiment – 9: Determination of color fastness to washing of a dyed sample.

Experiment – 10: Determination of fabric tensile, tear and bursting strength.
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Lab 1-8

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© Md Samiul Alom

Lecturer & Course Coordinator, Testing of Textiles

Experiment – 1: Identification of different textile fibers by burning test.

▪ To know different fiber characteristics.

of textile fiber through burning test

After burning Crush ability of

Wool Hair burning smell Curly Powder ash

Acrylic Skin burning smell Curly Powder ash

Nylon Very strong smell Melt Melt

Cotton Paper burning smell Rapid burning Fly ash

Acetate Smell of vinegar Curly Fly ash

Experiment – 2: Determination of Fiber fineness by air flow method.

Air Flow Method to determine Fiber Fineness

▪ To know about the fiber fineness

▪ To know about the air flow method

• Cotton fiber sample

1. 4 gm of sample is taken and balanced properly

02 4 2.69 2.70 0.0001 0.012 0.45%

1. The sample should be balanced properly according to machine tolerance

Experiment – 3: Determination of yarn count & CSP by wrap reel and

……………………………Length in yard × Weight Unit

1. To know about yarn count .

Wrap reel are two types on the basis of driving method:

Fig: Motor drive wrap reel

01 120 2.00 o.0044 32.46

02 120 2.10 0.0046 31.05

03 120 2.00 0.0044 32.46 31.48

04 120 2.15 0.0047 30.40

05 120 2.10 0.0046 31.05

………. ……Length in yard × Weight Unit

Yarn Count Determination Procedure:

1. Make lea by Wrap reel.

Experiment – 4: Determination of yarn count by Bessley’s balance method.

1. To know about thread count or yarn count.

Fig: Beesleys Balance

The following length is used to determine the count:

• Cotton: 4.32 Inch

Sample No Amount of yarn Yarn Count Average Count

Result: The cotton sample fabric warp thread count is 30s

1. Collect sample by appropriate sampling method.

• We should yarn withdrawn from fabric very carefully.

Experiment – 5: Determination of twist by twist tester of a given yarn sample.

Twist mainly two types. They are-

Untwist and retwist method:

Fig: Tension-type twist tester

Twist per inch = dial reading / (gauge length × 2)

Experiment – 6: Determination of GSM of a fabric (woven & knit).

1. To calculate the GSM of the given woven and knitted fabric.

Fig: GSM cutter and balance

1. Finished cotton woven fabric

1. Temperature – 25oC and relative humidity – 67%

So, Average GSM = (255+225+236+245+250)/5

Experiment – 7: Determination of fabric shrinkage/extension & spatiality.

Materials: Fabric samples (different types and weaves)

Fabric Sample Preparation

Calculate the average shrinkage/extension percentage for each sample

Results and Discussion:

Experiment – 8: Determination of color fastness to rubbing of a dyed sample.

We give 10 stocks the direction of every stock is 1 sec

Experiment – 9: Determination of color fastness to washing of a dyed sample.

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