Peplum Trumpet Blouse-1

Fitting the Fast & Easy way with... Sure-Fit Designs™ Pg.
Peplum Trumpet Blouse

This fun blouse design features a blouson-style bodice and
flared and gathered peplum joined at the waist. Pull over or
leave a center back opening for easy access. This blouse
is best sewn from a soft, silky polyester or silk. If using a
knit, remember to size down based on the stretch of the
fabric. This versatile blouse can be worn over leggings, a
pencil skirt, or wide, flowing palazzo pants. The first
sample garment uses 2 yards (1.8 meters) of 58” (147 cm)
wide silky polyester.
NOTIONS:
 Matching Thread
 Compatible Fusible Interfacing
 3/4” (20 mm) Wide Elastic for Waistline
 1/8” to 1/4" (0.3 to 0.6 cm) Wide Elastic for Trumpet Sleeve
PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Pattern Preparation
a. Trace the Bodice Front without seam allowances from your Dress Kit bodice blueprint onto a piece of tracing vellum.
b. Mark the center front and grainlines.
c. Trace the Bodice Back without seam allowances from your Dress Kit bodice blueprint onto a piece of tracing vellum.
d. Mark the center back and grainlines.
e. Trace the Skirt Front without seam allowances from your Dress Kit skirt blueprint onto a piece of tracing vellum
approximately 14” (35.6 cm) long.
f. Mark the center back and grainlines.
g. Trace the Skirt Back without seam allowances from your Dress Kit skirt blueprint onto a piece of tracing vellum
approximately 14” (35.6 cm) long.
h. Mark the center back and grainlines.
i. Trace the Sleeve without seam allowances from your Dress Kit sleeve blueprint to elbow length onto a piece of tracing
vellum. Use the Knit Sleeve if you are using knit fabric.
j. Mark the grainline.
2. Additional Measurements
a. Measure and note your head circumference. You will use this measurement to ensure the dress can slip on over your head.
b. Measure and note your shoulder circumference. You will use this measurement to ensure the dress can slip on over your
shoulders.
Copyright© 2022, Sure-Fit Designs™ Ranita Corporation, Star, Idaho. All rights reserved.
Fitting the Fast & Easy way with... Sure-Fit Designs™ Pg. 2
3. Bodice Back
a. Lower the underarm point of the armscye 1” (2.5 cm).
b. Extend the underarm point of the armscye 1/2” (1.3 cm).
c. Redraw the armscye.
d. Redraw the side seam straight down from the underarm point.
e. Lower the waistline 1 1/2” to 2” (3.8 to 5.1 cm) on center back.
f. Redraw the waistline straight across from center back to the new side seam, maintaining
right angles at the side seam and center back.
g. Mark a dot on center back down 1” (2.5 cm) from the neck point.
h. Mark a dot 1 1/2” (3.8 cm) out from the neck point on the shoulder line.
i. Draw a new neckline in a gentle curve, maintaining right angles at center back and the
shoulder line.
j. Mark a dot approximately 3” (7.6 cm) from the new neckline down on center back. If you
want a center back seam with a slit opening to assist in pulling the blouse over your head,
you will leave the center back seam open above this dot.
4. Bodice Front
a. Lower the underarm point of the armscye 1” (2.5 cm).
b. Extend the underarm point of the armscye 1/2” (1.3 cm).
c. Redraw the armscye.
d. Lower the waistline 1 1/2” to 2” (3.8 to 5.1 cm) on center front.
e. Lower the waistline 1 1/2” to 2” (3.8 to 5.1 cm) on the side seam.
f. Redraw the waistline straight across from center front to the new side seam.
g. Transfer the bust dart into the waist fitting dart. Refer to page 24 of the Dress Kit Instruction
Book.
TIP: If you have a bust size D cup or larger, your side seam will swing out much
wider than illustrated when you close the bust dart, which will require a much
steeper waistline curve.
h. Redraw the side seam from the new underarm point to the rotated side seam point.
i. Redraw the waistline in a gentle curve, maintaining right angles at the side seam and center
front.
j. Mark a dot on center front down 2” (5.1 cm) from the neck point.
k. Mark a dot 1 1/2” (3.8 cm) out from the neck point on the shoulder line.
l. Draw a new neckline in a gentle curve, maintaining right angles at center front and the
shoulder line.
5. Tweaking the Neckline
a. Measure the new front neckline.
b. Measure the new back neckline.
c. Add the front neckline measurement to the back neckline measurement and multiply by
2.
d. Compare the pattern measurement to your head circumference measurement.
e. If the neckline is smaller than your head:
i. extend the neck shoulder point and/or
ii. lower the front and/or back center neck point, or
iii. Add a center back seam with a 3” (7.6 cm) opening at the top to create a slit.
6. Tweaking the Waistline
a. Measure the new front waistline.
b. Measure the new back waistline.
c. Add the front waistline measurement to the back waistline measurement and multiply by 2.
d. Compare the pattern measurement to your shoulder circumference measurement.
e. If the waistline is smaller than your shoulder circumference:
i. extend the front and back waist side points an equal
amount, and
ii. redraw the side seams.
7. Peplum/Skirt Front
a. Place the front skirt tracing over the front bodice draft, lining
up the waist levels and center fronts.
b. Redraw the skirt waistline to match the width of the Bodice
Front waistline.
c. Mark a dot approximately 7” to 8” (17.8 to 20.3 cm) down on
center front.
d. Mark a dot approximately 9 1/2” (24.1 cm) down on the side
seam.
e. Draw a gentle curve from center front to the side seam
creating the curved hemline, and maintaining right angles at
center front and the side seam.
f. Draw 4 vertical slash lines equally spaced from the waistline
to the hemline.
g. Cut the slash lines, leaving tiny hinges at the waistline.
h. Spread the slashed sections evenly; for example, 2” (5.1 cm)
for each section.
TIP: The sample garment spread is 2” (5.1 cm) per
section.
i. Redraw the waistline in a smooth curve.
j. Redraw the hemline in a smooth curve.
8. Peplum/Skirt Back
a. Place the back skirt tracing over the back bodice draft, lining
up the waist levels and center backs.
b. Redraw the skirt waistline to match the width of the Bodice
Back waistline.
c. Mark a dot approximately 11” (27.9 cm) down on center back.
d. Mark a dot approximately 9 1/2” (24.1 cm) down on back side
seam.
e. Draw a gentle curve from center back to the side seam
creating the curved hemline.
TIP: Front and Back side seams must be the same length.
f. Draw 4 vertical slash lines equally spaced from the waistline to the hemline.
g. Cut the slash lines, leaving tiny hinges at the waistline.
h. Spread the slashed sections the same amount as you did for the Peplum Front.
i. Add additional fullness by drawing a new center back starting at the original center back waist point and spread 2” (5.1 cm)
wider at the hem level.
j. Redraw the waistline in a smooth curve.
k. Redraw the hemline in a smooth curve.
9. Tweaking the Peplum
a. Place the Skirt Back draft on top of the Skirt Front draft, lining up the waist levels and side
seams.
b. If necessary, redraw the Skirt Back side seam to match the Skirt Front side seam.
10. Sleeve
a. Lower the underarm points of the Sleeve 1” (2.5 cm).
b. Extend the underarm points of the Sleeve 1/2” (1.3 cm).
c. Fold the Sleeve draft in half, matching the new underarm points.
d. Trace the front underarm seam to the back.
e. Redraw the hemline.
f. Adjust the Sleeve cap curve as needed to ensure you only have a 3/8” to 1/2" (1.0 to 1.3 cm)
of cap ease compared to the Bodice Front armscye, and 1/2" to 5/8” (1.3 to 1.6 cm) of cap
ease compared to the Bodice Back armscye.
g. Trumpet Section:
i. Draw a rectangle the width of the sleeve hem wide by approximately 5” (12.7 cm) long.
ii. Draw 4 vertical slash lines equally spaced.
iii. Cut the slash lines, leaving tiny hinges at the top of the rectangle.
iv. Spread the slashed sections approximately 2” (5.1 cm).
v. Redraw the top of the Trumpet section in a smooth curve.
vi. Redraw the Trumpet section hemline in a smooth curve.
11. Facings & Elastic Casing Band
TIP: Refer to page 22 of the Dress Kit Instruction Book for information on drafting
facings.
a. Draft the front neck facing.
b. Draft the back neck facing with center back seam if choosing a center back slit.
c. Draft a rectangle that is the pattern full waist circumference long by 1” (2.5 cm) wide.
12. Seam Allowances

a. Add 5/8” (1.6 cm) seam allowances to all edges of the Bodice Front, except the center front.
b. Add 5/8” (1.6 cm) seam allowances to all edges of the Bodice Back, including the center back if using a back neck slit.
c. Add 5/8” (1.6 cm) seam allowances to the neck and shoulder edges of the Front Facing.
d. Add 5/8” (1.6 cm) seam allowances to the neck and shoulder edges of the Back Facing, including the center back if using a
back neck slit.
e. Add 5/8” (1.6 cm) seam allowances to all edges of the Peplum Front.
f. Add 5/8” (1.6 cm) narrow hem allowance to the Peplum Front.
g. Add 5/8” (1.6 cm) seam allowances to all edges of the Peplum Back.
h. Add 5/8” (1.6 cm) narrow hem allowance to the Peplum Back.
i. Add 5/8” (1.6 cm) seam allowances to all edges of the Sleeve.
j. Add 5/8” (1.6 cm) seam allowances to all edges of the Trumpet section.
k. Add 5/8” (1.6 cm) narrow hem allowance to the Trumpet section.
l. Add 1/4” (0.6 cm) seam allowances to all edges of the Elastic Casing Band.
13. Pattern Pieces with Markings
GENERAL SEWING CONSTRUCTION STEPS:
1. Stabilizing
a. Staystitch the Bodice Front neckline.
b. Staystitch the Bodice Back neckline
c. Staystitch the Front Facing neckline.
d. Staystitch the Back Facing neckline.
e. Interface the Front Facing.
f. Interface the Back Facing.
2. Bodice
a. With right sides together, stitch the Front Facing to the Back Facings at
the shoulder seams.
b. Finish the lower edge of the Facing and the seam allowances using
your preferred method.
c. With right sides together, stitch the Bodice Backs together at center
back, leaving the seam above the dot open (i.e., unstitched).
d. Press the unstitched seam allowances toward the inside.
e. With right sides together, stitch the Bodice Front to the Bodice Back at
the shoulder seams.
f. Finish the seam allowances using your preferred method.
g. On the Front Facing at center front, draw a ‘V’ that is 1 1/2” (3.8 cm) deep by 3/4" (1.9 cm) wide.
h. With right sides together, stitch the Facing to the Bodice at the neckline, following the ‘V’ marking that you created at center
front. Take 1 or 2 tiny stitches across the point of the ‘V’ to
accommodate the turn of the cloth.
i. Trim to a scant 1/4" (0.6 cm) inside the ‘V’ stitching.
j. Clip to the point of the ‘V’, being careful not to cut the stitching.
k. Trim and grade the neckline seam allowances, clipping where
necessary so the facing lays flat when turned to the inside.
l. Use a point turner to create a crisp point at the bottom of the ‘V’ and at
the neck seam.
m. Understitch the facing to the seam allowance.
n. Back Slit Closure:
i. Cut a piece your fashion fabric approximately 1” (2.5 cm) long by 4” (10.2
cm) wide.
ii. Fold the strip in half lengthwise.
iii. With right sides together, using a 1/4" (0.6 cm) seam allowance, stitch the
long edges of the strip together.
iv. Turn the loop to the right side using a bodkin or loop turner.
v. Fold the loop in half and place the raw edges on the left center back
seam allowance of the Bodice Back close to the top of the neckline.
Leave enough of the loop exposed outside of the center back go around
the ball button you plan to use.
vi. Hand stitch the raw edges of the loop to the center back seam allowance.
vii. Fold the short edges of the Back Facing toward this
inside to cover the raw edges of the loop, and press.
viii. Hand stitch the facing in place along center back.
ix. On the opposite side of the neck edge, sew a ball
button.
o. With right sides together, stitch the Bodice Front to the
Bodice Back at the side seams.
p. Finish the seam allowances using your preferred method.
3. Sleeves
a. Sew 2 rows of ease stitching 3/8” and 3/4" (1.0 to 1.9 cm) from the front single
notch to the back double notch on the outer curved edge of the sleeve cap.
b. Staystitch a scant 5/8” (1.6 cm) from the curved upper edge of the trumpet
section.
c. Clip to staystitching.
d. Edge finish the hem of the Trumpet section using you desired method. The
sample garment has been serged/overlocked.
e. With right sides together, stitch the upper edge of the Trumpet section to the lower
edge of the Sleeve, matching notches and spreading the Trumpet seam open as
necessary to match the Sleeve seam.
f. With both seam allowances together, finish the edges using a serger/overlocker or
using your preferred method.
g. Press the seam allowances toward the Sleeve.
h. Optional Elbow Elastic:
i. Using the seam allowances to form a casing, stitch 3/8” (1.0 cm) from the seam
line. This will create a 3/8” (1.0 cm) wide casing.
ii. Cut a piece of 1/8” or 1/4" (0.3 or 0.6 cm) elastic the same length as your elbow
circumference.
iii. Using a wide-eyed bodkin, thread the elastic though the casing.
iv. Try on the sleeve and adjust the elastic to fit comfortably at or slightly above the elbow.
v. Secure the elastic ends in the seam allowance.
i. With right sides together, stitch the underarm seams of the Sleeve and Trumpet section.
j. Finish the seam allowances using your preferred method.
k. Turn up the hem on the Trumpet section, and stitch a narrow line of machine stitches.
l. Insert the Sleeve into the Bodice.
m. Trim the seam allowances, and press toward the Sleeve.
n. Finish the seam allowances using your preferred method.
4. Peplum
a. With right sides together, stitch the Peplum Backs together at the center back seam.
b. With right sides together, stitch the Peplum Front to the Peplum Back at the side seams.
c. Finish the seam allowances using your preferred method.
d. With right sides together, stitch the Peplum to the Bodice.
e. Trim the seam allowances, and press open.
5. Elastic Casing Band
a. Press under the 1/4" (0.6 cm) seam allowances on all 4 edges of the Elastic Casing Band.
b. On the wrong side of the dress, center the Elastic Casing Band over the waist seam with both short ends ending at the left
side seam.
c. Stitch the Elastic Casing Band to the dress along the top and bottom long edges, being careful to keep the front and back of
the blouse separate. Do not stitch the short ends closed, as this is where you will insert the elastic.
d. Cut a piece of 3/4" (20 mm) elastic the length of your waist circumference plus at least 1”
(2.5 cm).
e. On the inside of the garment, insert the elastic into
the waistband.
f. Try on the dress and adjust the elastic to fit.
g. Securely stitch the ends of the elastic to each other.
6. Hem
a. Let the Blouse hang for at least 24 hours.
b. Trim the hem if necessary.
c. Narrow hem the Peplum.

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Peplum Trumpet Blouse-1

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Fitting the Fast & Easy way with... Sure-Fit Designs™ Pg.

Peplum Trumpet Blouse

12. Seam Allowances

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