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National Institute of Fashion Technology, Mumbai

SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD.


37 / AREKERE, BANNERGHATTA ROAD
BANGALORE- 560076, INDIA UNIT -12

GRADUATION PROJECT

UNDER THE GUIDANCE AND


SUPERVISION OF
INDUSRTY MENTOR - MRS.SEEMA SINGH
COLLEGE MENTOR – MRS.BHAWANA DUBEY

SUBMITTED BY
PRIYANKA VERMA
DECLARATION

THIS IS TO DECLARE THAT THE FOLLOWING DOCUMENT IS THE ORIGINAL WORK


DONE BY PRIYANKA VERMA, STUDENT OF NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION
TECHNOLOGY.UNDER THE MENTORSHIP OF MRS.SEEMA SINGH IN SHAHI
EXPORTS.
ACKNOWLEDGMENT

The successful accomplishment of my project is incomplete without acknowledging the


guidance that assisted and inspired me. I would like to acknowledge my sincere
gratitude to all who gave me an opportunity to do internship and also I would like to
thank all the desighn team who guided me and provided valuable information.

FIRSTLY, I would like to thank my mentor Mrs. BHAWANA DUBEY for her support
and guidance throughout my internship .

I express my deep sense of gratitude to my industry mentor Mrs. SEEMA SINGH, for
providing guidance and valuable suggestions during my internship period .

I also express my sincere gratitude to all designers for their constant support and the
coordinator for all the help and support.
COMPANY PROFILE
NAME OF THE COMPANY - SHAHI EXPORT HOUSE
YEAR OF ESTABLISHMENT - 1974 (DELHI)
SOLE PROPRIETER- Mr HARISH AHUJA

COMPANY OVERVIEW

SHAHI Exports Pvt. Ltd. is engaged in the manufacture and export of readymade garments in the
International market. It is one of the largest export houses in India. The company started its operations
in the form of a small fabrication unit with the help of 25 machines.
The company has grown from leaps to bounds from a simple fabrication unit to present turnover of Rs.
2200 crore , around 55000 employees and spread over 27 locations. It has manufacturing units in six
different states of India viz. Delhi, Haryana, Uttar Pradesh, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh.
The group is into manufacturing of a wide range of Men’s and Ladies wear and also home products.
SHAHI group has all the modern units equipped with state-of-the-art technology giving the best to its
buyers.

Its manufacturing facilities includes Assembly line machines, Prima Vision system print/fabric
development, Meyer fusing press, Barudan and Tajima, Multi head computerized embroidery
machine, in house washing plant, automatic cutting machines (F.K. Systems).

SHAHI has a well-equipped sampling division where latest patterns/designs/styles of high standards are
developed with the assistance of experienced designers.

It has a training centre for tailors at Faridabad and Bangalore each to train and develop them into vital
human resource for efficient operations.

As regards to quality, SHAHI has been ranked one of the best in Asia by J.C.Penny, the world-renowned
departmental stores.
COMPANY PROFILE

• Started in 1974 at Faridabad, in Delhi


• Bangalore operations began on 1st November 1988 with 250 associates and 104
machines.
• Expanded over 200 times from last 30 years
• Manufactures 3 million pieces of high quality woven’s & knits per month
• In-house product development and design studio
• Uses 3 software platforms such as MOVEX, COGNOS and OPTITEX.
• Major business operations are Textile Mills and Apparel Manufacturing.
• Future plans: set up 3 more units in Karnataka, plans in Bangladesh and Pakistan.
• Competitors: Madura Garments, Gokaldas Exports and VK Exports.
• Key personnel:
• MRS. SARALA AHUJA
• MR. HARISH AHUJA
• MR. GIRISH AHUJA
• MR. SUBHASH TIWARI
• MR. RAMALINGAM
PRODUCT PROFILE

• VISION:

“Be the global best in bringing delight to human life by weaving dreams of
fashion & feelings of comfort”.

• MISSION:

– Be the most preferred competitive global supplier of apparel.

– Be the most preferred employer in the industry.

– Be a learning organization to improve & excel.

• VALUES:

– Customer delight.

– Integrity & ethics.

– Respect for human values.

– Nurturing human talent.

– Continues improvement
 MAJOR BUYERS

 Tommy Hilfigher
 Armani
 Hugo Boss
 Liz Claiborn
 Abercrombie & Fitch (A & F)
 J.C. Penny
 Kohls

 Gap
 Target
 Wal-mart
 Calvin Klein
 Espirit
 Hennes & Mauritz (H & M)
 Nautica
SPECIALIZATION

Woven
- It covers men's & boy's shirts, casual men's shirts, formals, ladies & girls dress
Knits
- The product range covers Polo T- shirts, Jackets, Sportswear, Sleepwear, etc
Manufacturing unit situated at
Industrial plot #1, sector 28, Faridabad - 121008, Haryana, India
Manufacturing units in Bangalore
Woven: Belandur Gate, Sarjapur Main Road, Bangalore - 560034, Karnataka
Knits: No - 37 / 1B, Arekere Village, Bannerghatta Main road, Bangalore – 560076
ABOUT SHAHI

Shahi exports private limited established in 1974 by Mrs. Sarla Ahuja with a unit in Delhi. Shahi Exports
is headquartered in Faridabad, Delhi. Operations in Bangalore began on 1st July 1988 with 250 associates
and 104 machines.
Shahi exports is India’s largest exporter of ready-made garments with a capacity to produce 120 million
garments per year. There are more than 90,000 associates working at Shahi today, of which 65% are women.
Shahi exports has 40 manufacturing units spread across Karnataka, AndhraPradesh, Tamil Nadu and Delhi.
The various buyers that work with Shahi include Gap, Benetton, Walmart, Tommy Hilfiger, DKNY and
other American and European clothing brands with large volume orders. Various types of garments are
produced at Shahi including woven and knit clothing for women, men and kids.

Delivering products across ladies, men’s and children’s wear, their vertically integrated operations,
diversified product range, and a strong commitment to sustainable operations have established Shahi as one
of the most preferred garment manufacturers in the world. Shahi is people-focused business with an
emphasis on promoting and advancing ethical working practices across the industry. The entire Shahi
organization works on Enterprise Resource Planning System, which unifies all department's working. This
system allows typical handling of manufacturing, distribution of inventory, shipping, invoicing and
accounting. It also synchronises business activities like sales, delivery, billing, production, inventory and
quality management and also human resource management.

AIM
Their aim is to attain high score on customer delight index by understanding customer's values,
expectations and striving to achieve the same.

MISSION
Shahi Exports Private Limited focusses to provide best quality product and to exceed customer
expectation through uncompromising quest for perfection.

VISION
The company works with a vision to be always No.1 in knit garment business.
QUALITY
Shahi considers the quality as strive to delight customers through Lean Manufacturing System with
respect for human values.
 100% delivery on time in full (OTIF)
 Reduce manufacturing cost by 10%
 Reduce material wastage by 5%
 Become preferred employee

CUSTOMER BASE:
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd, has customers who are the leading shopping chains, with head officers at
Europe and USA, where as their retails outlets are spread over the world. The uniqueness with versatility
and competitive prices are demanding factors. Success of a business depends entirely on understanding the
buyer's needsand satisfying the same fully. Infrastructure, plant and machinery, expertise of highly skilled
and qualified professionals and commitment to quality have earned it a high degree of trust to its valuable
buyers.

ABOUT KNITS DIVISION (UNIT - 12)


MD - MrHarish Ahuja
CEO–Mr Ramalingam
The biggest plant of Knit Division is Unit - 12 and activities of all Knit Divisions are monitored from
Unit - 12 and the functioning of knit division differently started on 23rd August 2001. Shahi Exports Knit
Division consists of Unit 11, 12, 14, 20, 22, 26 and 30. All knits division is having capacity of
manufacturing 3 million pcs/month. Unit - 12 is having a manufacturing capacity of 16 lakh pieces per
month and employed 5,600 associates. This unit is having 127 production lines, all are the "cut to pack" with
2,600 sewing machines whereas almost 70,500 cuts per day have been executed using 127 cutting tables.
Around 12,000 tons of fabric is being sourced per month for manufacturing the pieces. Among the regular
buyers every season in which 60% are USA buyers and 40% are UK buyers. Shahi is fetching the major
business from Tommy Hilfiger and Kohl’s.
WORKFLOW
According to me, the procedure of working in Shahi Exports Private Ltd. can be understood in two
categories. One of the categories concentrates on the marketing team whereas the other on the design
development team. All the departments of the company are directly or indirectly related to both the
categorized departments which serve as a link between the same like the printing unit, embroidery unit,
purchase department etc.

MARKETING TEAM
The work process of the marketing team starts at the point of receiving an order from the buyer. This
order comes in the form of a techpack which constitutes every minute detail of the garment. The techpack
has construction details, measurement details, fabric details, embroidery or printing or any other
embellishment details (if any) and also has trim details. It is the responsibility of the merchant to co-ordinate
with the buyer for the style. Here designer’s role is to support the Design related queries of the respective
marketing team that they are attached to.
COSTING
The first step after receiving the techpack is to calculate the estimated cost of the product which
includes all embellishment costs (printing, embroidery, dyeing etc.), overheads, profit etc. If the buyer
approves the cost of the product then it goes into sampling which is further approved by the buyers. In case,
the buyer does not approve the cost, the merchant calculates the actual cost of the garment keeping in mind
the quantity of order.

SAMPLING, PRODUCTION AND SHIPMENT


There are many samples made during the procedure and are approved simultaneously. The samples
include Proto sample, Co-ordination sample, Fit sample, Pre-production sample which after approval goes
into actual production. Simultaneously fabrics, trims (if any), are sourced and kept in the fabric store and
accessory store respectively. Finally, after the approval of top sample the Company gets the right to
shipment.
DESIGN DEVELOPMENT TEAM
The design development team constitute Designation Manager and Designation Senior Executive
Design who are further divided into teams which are answerable to their respective heads. The team I
worked with had Mrs. Seema singh as the Design head.
The Design Team work includes offering new artwork proposals of the selected buyer styles and also key
trend developments as per the latest trend spotting from across all fashion sites, blogs, WGSN, magazines
and buyer trends. The developments are then shown to the respective buyers by the respective designers.
The role of merchant comes into picture for doing the costing and handling the production of the selected
samples and the same procedure is followed as in the Marketing team. Both design team as well as
Marketing team has the same fabric store, pattern master, CAD unit, embroidery unit, printing unit, purchase
unit and also the merchandising unit to some extent. Therefore, the departments are linked with each other
as their working collaborates
FABRIC STORE
Fabrics procured are stored in the store room. The fabrics are procured in bulk on the basis of the
order and are kept in huge open racks differentiated by the name of the buyers handled by the export house.
The excess/ left out fabric after production is then again bought to the fabric store which can be used by the
design and development team.

WEIGHING
Fabrics are weighed to check if the quantity claimed is the same or not. Weighing is done in
kilograms (kg). After weighing the rolls are sent for inspection. There are 2 weighing machines kept at a
platform which is raised at a height of almost 3 foot.

INSPECTION
The first step to be carried after weighing is to inspect the fabric. In the fabric inspection department
four point system is been used for bales, rolls & Piece Goods Inspection. There are 3 inspection machines
which are ramson setups with UV light, Top light, Speed control mechanism and also with the facility of
table up and down mechanism. The main principle of 4 point system is that the penalty points given to the
max defect is 4.
BITING
Biting is the process of cutting the bulk fabrics into 3 - 3.5 meters of length as soon as the fabric gets
weighed after procurement and the production is to be started. The length of bit is decided on the basis of the
pattern to reduce wastage. Handling of fabrics becomes easy due to biting.

WASHING
The unit is the largest setup of Ramsons with a capacity of 25 to 50 kilograms with water level
indicators, temperature control devices on the machine. There are 3 garment dyeing machines whereas the
rest are bit dyeing machines in the main washing room. Every production oor has a small washing section
separately to remove stains, etc. from the garment. The main purpose of washing is to remove stains, dirt
and pencil marks, check for shrinkage and also to enhance the feel of the garment. Different washes changes
the look of the garment/fabric.
KNITTED FABRICS ARE WASHED AT TWO STAGES:

A) BIT STAGE
First stage is the Bit stage and the other is the garment stage. Bit is the term used to describe fabrics
of length 3 - 3.5 meters cut as soon as the fabric gets weighed after procurement and the production is to be
started. Bits are cut to avoid entangling of the fabrics and also to allow the fabric to its maximum before
cutting the pattern.

B) GARMENT STAGE
Garments are washed to remove dirt, spots etc. as during the procedure the garment went into many
hands as well as places .It is also done to improve hand, gets control on shrinkage and to give a different
look to the garment. However the method of wash given to the garment depends on the nature of fabric,
buyer requirement and specification. The major difference between the two washes is that bit washing is
done prior to the cutting and stitching of the garment while the other is done after the whole garment is made
which means the next step is tagging and packing. One wash can be given at bit stage whereas another
completely different wash can be given at the garment stage to achieve a look if required.

WASHING IS OF TWO TYPES. THEY ARE:

1. DRY WASH
As the name itself indicates “dry” which means here water is not used. This is usually done to give
certain effects on the garment. Such washes are more used on denim and jean fabrics. Example: stone wash,
sand blasting, grinding, etc.

2. WET WASH
In this method water is one of the main ingredients used for washing. This is done to check
shrinkage, remove stains, dirt, pencil marks, etc. enhances the feel of the garment and also to provide
required effects on the surface of the garment. Such washes are widely used for all sorts of garments.
However the type of wash depends upon the nature of fabric, buyer requirement and specifications.
PROCESS FLOW

SEGREGATION

(Garments and bits)

WASHING

HYDRO EXTRACTION

DRYING

CHECKING

BUNDLING

The important factors to be considered at the time of washing are tinting, bleeding, open stitch and
damage. Tinting means one colour spreading on another colour in fabrics. Chemicals are used to avoid
tinting. Bleeding means colour fading by the loss of colour from the fabric by the use of low quality dyes.
Dye Fixing is done to prevent colour bleeding.

In industries, industrial washing machines are used for washing. The machines are filled with
sufficient quantity of water, chemicals, soaps, garments are rotated, the quality of water, type of chemicals,
detergents and also the duration of washing varies according to the type of fabric and method of washing.

From washing machine the garments are transferred to hydro extractor, where the water is squeezed
out of the garments. Proper drying takes place in driers. Tumble driers are used for drying the garments
completely.
NORMALLY THERE ARE SIX TYPES OF WASHES DONE IN KNIT DIVISION,
UNIT-12.

1. PLAIN WASH:The main purpose of water wash is to remove dirt. In plain was the garment/ fabric
is washed in hot water and no chemicals are added to water. It is therefore called as hot wash.

2. SOFTENER WASH:Softeners are used in this wash to give softness to the garment. Usually 10%
Cationic silicon softener is added to the water. Softener wash improves the hand feel of the garment/
fabric.

3. ENZYME/ BIO WASH:Enzyme washing is laundering process which uses enzymes to clean
garment or to finish fabric. These enzymes dissolves the fibres that are pulled on the surface of the
fabric and give smooth appearance to the fabric.

4. ACID WASH:In acid wash Aztec acid added during washing fabric or garment.

5. RUBBER BALL WASH:Special type of rubber balls are used for rubber ball washing, these balls
are put into machine at the time of washing. Rubber ball washes is mainly used for thick fabric to
give flowing appearance or to feel smooth.

6. DIP & DRY WASH: In dip & dry garment is dip in water and dry in machine. This helps to avoid
shrinkage and to remove sizing material.
SPREADING, CUTTING, SORTING AND BUNDLING:

SPREADING
The main objective of spreading is to spread the fabric lay accurately as per the length of the maker
with minimum waste at end of a lay. There are two types of spreading.

MANUAL SPREADING
In cutting department fabric lays are laid manually as per the marker length, at the end of the
lay the workers cut the fabric with scissors and end cutter. During spreading they take care of shades in the
lays of fabric, they do check the width and length of the fabric and give report. They maintain a report of
how many layers are been lay and the laying being done by whom. To get perfection during lay cutting in
case of checks and stripes fabric the lay cutters do follow the design and then cut it, but in case of plain
fabric they cut the fabric as it is. They are getting more end bits during spreading but they use these end bits
to cut garment parts. In certain cases 2 end bits are joined together to make the required length. This is
possible if shades of both the end bits are matched.

AUTO SPREADING
The automatic spreading is done by machines which hold the fabric rolls in width wise and fabric is
spread along length wise. Only one operator is required.

THERE ARE 3 TYPES OF LAYING:


• Folded
• Open width
• Pinning lay
CUTTING
Cutting is very important and necessary process without which the garment can’t be stitched. Cutting
should be done according to the marker & is carried out by cutting master and cutting in charge. Here the
cutting is done in two stages.

THERE ARE TWO TYPES OF CUTTING:

MANUAL CUTTING
• Band knife cutting
• Straighter cutting
COMPUTER PNEUMATIC CUTTING
• Sticker Front & Back
• Bundling (in case to be send directly to stitching) else first complete embellishments or additional which
has 9 washing machines.
The cutting department receives the checked fabrics and is then cut into rectangular blocks. It is then
sent to the sorting department where the fabric is relayed using pins and then is cut with the help of band
knife machine. The cut parts of the same size are bundled together and are tagged accordingly. After the
fabric is cut perfectly, it is sent for ticketing. Each and every cut piece is ticketed and bundled.
In case of cutting fusing/interlining, the fabric is spread on the spreading table and the patterns are
laid over the lay, and then the fabric is cut. Six operators are required to complete this procedure, 2 for
sorting and arranging the fabrics according to the numbers, two for moving the fabric on the table and two
for moving the fabric and cutting fusing by fusing machine.There are quality checkers who check the cut
parts and record defects found in the bundles.
PRINTING UNIT

Shahi exports, unit 12 has its own printing department. Printing of both production and design
development team is done here. It has the latest printing facilities which can produce 90,000 meters a day.
The unit also has its own screen making lab and colour lab. The printing department has 8 screen printing
machines with different screen capacity. 5 of them are 8 screen machines whereas 3 are12 screen, one of
which is an automated machine. The unit has a workforce of 79 workers approximately. These machines are
used for production samples. Development samples are printed manually by the workers.
TYPES OF PRINTING TECHNIQUES DONE IN SHAHI EXPORTS ARE:
1. Pigment print
2. Discharge print
3. Puff print
4. Flock Print
5. Foil Print
6. High density print
7. Glitter print
8. Shimmer print
9. Non-PVC print

PROCESS FLOW:
The artwork made is forwarded to the printing department where different films are printed based on
the number of colours required with inkjet printer. These films are transparent sheets and are also called
plotter sheet. These films are used for screen exposure and these also decide the size of the screen. The
maximum size of screen possible is 22” by 29”.
Film making
Screen making
Drying
Printing
Curing
EMBROIDERY UNIT
There are 14 embroidery machines in totality. 3 of the machines have 20 heads each whereas the rest
have 18 heads. Shahi is one of the largest installations of Barudan with all the embroidery machines of the
same. Embroidery for both production order and sampling happens in the units.
Every machine has a main head which helps operate the 20 or 18 heads of the machine. The main
head acts like brain of the machine. The floppy is inserted into the head with the design pattern. Design
pattern is nothing but the path assigned to the needles. The data is read as movement of every needle and
transferred to different heads. Every head has 9 needles and has a bobbin attached at the bottom of the
machine help forming stitches or loops. The embroidery table has a bed moving bed which can be adjusted
as required. It has automatic stop mechanism if some problem comes, if thread breaks, etc. The machines are
capable of producing 9 colours producing 1 billion stitches in 1 day.These also have checking tables and
marking tables where operators check for defects and mark the placement of the embroideries if any. Also
the unit has Single needle machine for alterations in the embroidery design.
Embroidery pattern is sent to the head of the embroidery department who rst checks the design
keeping in mind the possibilities of the embroidery machine and then forwards it to his co-worker who
converts the design into the movement of the needles. The design sent in PDF format is first converted into a
JPEG image and is then traced using software’s like Optitex or Wilcom E5-65 designer where the stitches
are made defining the movement of needles.

HAND EMBROIDERY
Though hand embroidery is expensive, it is still done in Shahi as it has its own grace. Embroidery
units for production and design development team are different, but the procedure followed by both of them
is the same. As soon as the embroidery executive receives the artwork, he passes it to his workers for
punching. Punching is to replicate the artwork on gateway sheet in the form of holes with needles. All type
of hand embroideries as well as embellishments are possible. Thread tassels, sequins, etc. all types of hand
works are done here
LASER CUTTING
Shahi has 1 laser cutting room which has a laser cutting machine and a computer. Computer and the
machine are directly connected. The laser machine has a moving iron bed with width of 730 mm and length
of 950 mm approximately. Iron bed is made in small pentagon shapes attached to each other.
Batch setting follows zigzag flow for easy and convenient flow of materials. Once the batch is set, the actual
garment manufacture will begin & the target is set for each and every operation, which in turn gives the
estimated production. Hourly production target and daily production target is fixed by the Production
Manager by his experience knowledge.
The Target setting depends on:
• Shipment Date
• Style
• Number of workers & no. of machines

SEGREGATION AND DISPATCHING:


The garment from batches after button section is segregated and dispatched before or after washing
as per the sizes and shades to different batches for further finishing and packing processs.

TRIMMING:
After washing the garments are subjected to trimming section. In trimming loose threads are cut with
the help of a trimmer. Inside and outside trimming is done on the garment. At the time of trimming care
should be taken that it should not affect the stitches in the garment or the garment.

FINISHING:
Finishing is done before packing. It is been carried out before or after washing as per the buyer
requirement or dependent on the fabric. The garments from the production section are sent for washing by
segregating them on the basis of sizes, shades. The main objective of finishing is to finish the garment as per
buyer requirement and present more effectively.
INSIDE CHECKING:
The inside of the garment is checked to note if there is any defects in the inside of the garment. A
sticker is pasted inside the wash care label at the time of inside checking.

OUTSIDE CHECKING:
In outside checking, the outside of the garment is checked like parts of the garments, its position,
buttons, line matching etc.

IRONING:
After Trimming and Checking, the garment is sent to ironing section. First the buttons are
attached and then the garment is ironed. The steam is connected with the pipe to the steam iron box.
Ironing is done in two stages rough ironing and final ironing. Rough ironing is helpful for the identi-
fication of defects. After ironing the garment is measured and put on hanger, if required folding is
done. Ironing, folding depends on the buyer specifications.

PACKAGING:
Packing is the final stage of garment industry for shipment of goods. The main objective of packing
is easy transportation of goods. It is also done to maintain the quality norms of the garment. Packing of the
garment is done depending on the requirement.

SPOT WASHING:
Spot washes are done here to remove mud, grease, pen mark, yellow stain, sticker mark, etc. Here
high pressure water and steam is used to wash and dry the garment so that no water mark is left out. Various
chemicals like LOC (liquid organic cleaner), soap, oil, acetone, robin, baby soap are used.Spot washing
machines have iron mesh like structure from where the excess liquid applied gets collected which is
reusable.
Research and Development Department:
This department is also recognised as R&D department. The work of R&D department is to reduce
the steps involved during the production increasing the productivity. This department is responsible for
simplifying the actions reducing the manpower involved and time consumption. Unit 12 also has a section
where R&D department develops folders which are attached to the machines making them into completely
new machines.
DIFFERENT TYPES OF SAMPLE:
Sample is the physical form of buyer’s specification or style/design. After the buyer sends the
techpack to the merchandiser the next step is to do the costing and make different samples which are then
co-ordinated with the buyer. Type of samples is prepared in the following sequence: First Pattern (first
sample): The first physical version of any garment as per the artwork done by designer and/or developer.
2nd Pattern (2nd Sample): Usually designer/developer asks for some changes to the rst pattern. Second
Pattern is the changed pattern made as per the comments.

 Sales Man Sample


 Production sample
 Counter sample
 Fit sample / Red tag sample
 Pre-production sample
 Size samples
LAYOUT OF SECOND FLOOR

LAYOUT OF THE CUTTING SECTION


LAYOUT OF THE FABRIC STORE AND INSPECTION SECTION

LAYOUT OF FINISHING SECTION


ANALYSIS

Strength Weakness
 Vertical Integration  Centralized cutting
 Specialized units  Technological Advancement
 Quality adherence  Centralized Merchandising
 Introduction of ERP  Inefficient use of ERP
 Efficient planning Department

Opportunity Threat
 Infrastructure  International Competition
 Flexible Manufacturing
 H R Department
DESIGN COLLECTION
C A L V I N K L E I N
IN Shahi I interned in CALVIN KLEIN AND TOMMY WOMENS studio for Calvin Klein
brand and I have design a collection for (s/s 20) and for tommy also its s/s 20 I made total
twelve garments that of six men’s and six women’s wear.
For men’s I made of three tees and three bottoms, for women’s three tops and three bottoms.
BRAND STUDY

Calvin Klein Inc. is an American fashion house founded by the fashion designer Calvin Klein. The company
is headquartered in Midtown Manhattan, New York City and is currently owned by PVH.

HISTORY
The early years
In 1968, Klein founded Calvin Klein Limited, a coat shop in the York Hotel in New York City, with
$10,000.The first Calvin Klein collection was a line of "youthful, understated coats and dresses" featured at
the New York City store, Bonwit Teller.
In September 1969, Klein appeared on the cover of Vogue magazine.
1970s
By 1971, Klein had added sportswear, classic blazers, and lingerie to his women's collection.
In 1973, he received his first Coty American Fashion Critics' Award for his 74-piece womens wear
collection - the youngest recipient at that time. Klein won the award again in 1974 and 1975. By 1977,
annual revenues had increased to $30 million (equivalent to $117 million in 2016), and Klein had licenses
for scarves, shoes, belts, furs, sunglasses, and sheets. Klein and Schwartz were making $4 million each.
After the company signed licenses for cosmetics, jeans, and menswear, Klein's annual retail volume was
estimated at $100 million (equivalent to $390 million in 2016). In 1978, Klein claimed sales of 200,000
pairs of his famous jeans the first week they were on the market. By 1981, Fortune figured Klein's annual
income at $8.5 million a year. In the mid-1970s, he had created a designer-jeans craze by putting his name
on the back pocket. Klein's design assistant at the time, Jeffrey Banks, has claimed credit for the logo
garments, stating that he had the logo from a press folder silkscreened onto the sleeve of a brown T-shirt as a
present for Klein. The gift was assumed by Schwartz to be part of the upcoming line, and similar logo shirts
formed the uniform for the front-of-house staff at Klein's next catwalk show, leading to buyer demand. In
the late 1970s, the company also made attempts to set up its own fragrance and cosmetics lines, but soon
withdrew from the market with big financial losses. In the 1980s, as the designer-jeans frenzy reached its
all-time high, Calvin Klein introduced a highly successful line of boxer shorts for women and a men's
underwear collection which would later gross $70 million in a single year.
2002–present: Acquisition by Phillips van Heusen
In mid-December 2002, Calvin Klein Inc. (CKI) was sold to Phillips Van Heusen Corp (PVH), whose then
CEO Bruce Klatsky was the driving force behind the deal, for about $400 million in cash, $30 million in
stock as well as licensing rights and royalties linked to revenues over the following 15 years that were
estimated at $200 to $300 million. The sale also included an ongoing personal financial incentive for Klein
based on future sales of the Calvin Klein brand.
PVH outbid VF Corp., the maker of Lee and Wrangler jeans, which had also been interested in the jeans,
underwear and swimwear business of CK that had been controlled by Warnaco Group, maker of
Speedo swimwear in the US, since 1997. The deal with PVH did not include these businesses, and they
remained with Warnaco. Unable to pay debts from acquisitions and licensing agreements and due to bad
publicity by a later dismissed lawsuit with Calvin Klein over selling license products to retailers other than
agreed upon with Calvin Klein, Warnaco had filed for chapter 11 protection in mid-2001 but eventually
emerged from bankruptcy in February 2003.
The transaction between Calvin Klein and PVH was financially supported by Apax Partners Inc., a New
York private equity firm, which is said to have made a $250 million equity investment in PVH convertible
preferred stock, as well as a $125 million, two-year secured note, all in exchange for seats on the board of
PVH.
CKI thus became a wholly owned subsidiary of PVH. In the beginning, Klein himself, who was included as
a person in the 15-year contract he had signed with PVH, remained creative head of the collections but then
continued as an advisor (consulting creative director) to the new company from 2003 on and has since been
more withdrawn from the business. Barry K. Schwartz was said to concentrate on his role as chairman of
the New York Racing Association, a horse-racing club. The current President and COO of the CKI division
within PVH is Tom Murry, who had filled this position already before the acquisition.
With the fall 2006 Collection runway presentations in New York City, CKI inaugurated an 8,600 sq ft
(800 m2) show room space that can seat up to 600 people on the ground floor of 205 West 39th Street,
in Times Square South where Calvin Klein has been headquartered since 1978.
In a 2010 report, PVH, who manages the ready-to-wear activities, had estimated sales of €4.6 billion of
Calvin Klein products.

Products and marketing


Product & brand history
The most visible brand names in the Calvin Klein portfolio include


Calvin Klein Collection (black label, upscale top-end designer line)

Ck Calvin Klein (grey label, recently repositioned as bridge collection line;
licensed to Warnaco Group, Inc. through at least
2044. PVH acquired Warnaco Group in Feb 2013)
 Calvin Klein (white label, basic fashion better sportswear line)
 Calvin Klein Sport (sports version of the white label line for Macy's)
 Calvin Klein Jeans (denim wear line; licensed to Warnaco Group through at
least 2044. PVH acquired Warnaco Group in Feb 2013)
 Calvin Klein Home (high end bedding, towel, bath rug and accessory
collections)
 The Khaki Collection (youthful medium to high end bedding, towel, bath
rug and accessories) discontinued in 2008
 Calvin Klein Golf (launched in late 2007)
 Calvin Klein Underwear (underwear collections; licensed to Warnaco
Group through at least 2044. PVH acquired Warnaco Group in Feb 2013)
 CK one Lifestyle brand (fragrance, underwear, jeans -launched 2011)
Calvin Klein Watches + Jewellery (watches launched in 1997, jewellery in 2004)
Advertising

Branding
Like other fashion brands, Calvin Klein established a monogram: the "cK" emblem.
Licensees
As of 2012, the top three licensees were:

 Warnco - 40% of license royalties, which is "around $100 million Coty -


12% of license royalties
 G-iii Apparel Group - 14% of license royalties

Designers
The current creative director for Calvin Klein Collection for women is Brazilian-born Francisco Costa who
had already worked with Klein directly before the founder's departure from the company. Costa had taken
over the job in 2003.
Italo Zucchelli, a former Jil Sander and Romeo Gigli designer, had collaborated with Calvin Klein for six
seasons before he became head designer of the Calvin Klein Collection menswear line in spring 2004.
Kevin Carrigan, an Englishman, is the creative director of the ck Calvin Klein and Calvin Klein (white
label) brands and their related licensed products. Carrigan has been with Calvin Klein since 1998.

Corporate
Stores

 Calvin Klein Collection


In the late 1990s the company opened elegant Calvin Klein Collection stores in Paris, Seoul, and Taipei and
ultra high-end cK Calvin Klein stores in Hong Kong, Milan and Kuwait City. As of today, there is only
one Calvin Klein Collection store operated by CKI. It is located in New York City. Out of the two Calvin
Klein Collection stores that existed in the US, the Dallas location in Highland Park Village which had been
open for 20 years was closed in mid-2005. The only international location, in Paris, was closed by PVH in
March 2006. The New York store, which serves as the company's flagship store at 654 Madison Ave.,
remains open still today. Partners maintain Calvin Klein Collection stores in Hong Kong, Shanghai,
Mumbai, Seoul, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, Dubai and Qatar.

 Calvin Klein (white label)


Specialty retail Calvin Klein stores, designed by New York architecture firm Lynch/Eisinger/Design have
been opened at Lenox Square in Atlanta, Beverly Center in Los Angeles; now closed down, Cherry Creek
Mall in Denver; now closed down, Natick Collection in Natick, MA; closing down on July 25, 2010, The
Mall at Partridge Creek in Michigan; now closed down, Aventura Mall in Aventura, Florida, South Coast
Plaza in Costa Mesa California. An additional eight stores also designed by Lynch/Eisinger/Design are set to
open in 2008. There are also several Calvin Klein Outlet stores, mostly located within factory outlet malls in
the US, that sell the white label sportswear and sometimes the Calvin Klein white label at reduced prices but
do not carry the Collection lines. It has been reported that Calvin Klein will close all White Label locations
within the next year.

 Calvin Klein Jeans


Calvin Klein Jeans stores exist around the globe. Among many other countries in the UK, Germany,
Greece, Russia, Brazil, México, Croatia, Egypt, Chile, Argentina, India, the Philippines, Australia and New
Zealand. They also offer franchisee and opened in Cali last year.

 Calvin Klein Underwear


Signature Calvin Klein Underwear boutiques can be found in Buenos Aires, Cardiff (as of April
2011), Mexico City, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Melbourne, Hong Kong, London, Manchester, Manila, New York
City, Shanghai, Singapore, Frankfurt am Main, Munich, Toronto and Hatfield, Metropolis at Metro
town in Burnaby, B.C. (Metro Vancouver).

 Department Stores
The major department stores in the US, including Macy's, Lord & Taylor and Nordstrom, as well as many
small independent stores carry the ck, white label and/or Jeans collections. Some high-end department
stores, such as Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus also carry the Calvin Klein
Collection. Notable retailers in the UK offering Calvin Klein include stores such as John
Lewis, Debenhams and KJ Beckett. In Australia the dominant retailer is Myer. Calvin Klein products are
also found online with particular internet focus on selling Calvin Klein underwear and fragrance.

 Europe and Asia


In Europe, Calvin Klein is predominantly known for its underwear, accessories and perhaps
the Collection business, rather than for the medium-priced sportswear lines which are available at select
high-end retail stores. In Asia, there are also signature ck Calvin Klein stores that carry diffusion line, aka
grey label including women’s wear, menswear, accessories.
Calvin klein trend forecast
Tommy Hilfiger trend forecast
BRAND STUDY TOMMY HILFIGER

TOMMY HILFIGER is one of the world’s leading designer lifestyle brands and is
internationally recognized for celebrating the essence of classic American cool
style, featuring preppy with a twist designs.

Founded in 1985, Tommy Hilfiger delivers premium styling, quality and value to
consumers worldwide under
the TOMMY HILFIGER and TOMMY JEANS brands, with a breadth of
collections
including HILFIGER COLLECTION, TOMMY HILFIGER TAILORED, TommyX
Gigi, men’s, women’s and kids’ sportswear, denim, accessories, and footwear. In
addition, the brand is licensed for a range of products, including fragrances,
eyewear, watches and home furnishings. Founder Tommy Hilfiger remains the
company’s Principal Designer and provides leadership and Hilfiger has built an
extensive distribution network in over 100 countries and more than 1,800 retail
stores throughout North America, Europe, Latin America and the Asia Pacific
region. Global retail sales of the TOMMY HILFIGER brand were US $7.4 billion
in 2017direction for the design process.Tommy Hilfiger, which was acquired by
PVH Corp. in 2010, is a global apparel and retail company with more than
15,000 associates worldwide.
DESIGNDEVELOPMENT
CATEGORY: WOMEN’S WEAR
SEASON: SPRING SUMMR 20
BRAND: TOMMY HILFIGER

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