Republic of the Philippines

9
Department of Education
Region XII
Schools Division Office of Cotabato
/ TULUNAN NATIONAL HIGH SCHOOL
Tulunan, Cotabato

Technology and
Livelihood Education
Quarter 1 - Module 5
Dressmaking

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 LESSON Lay-out and Pin Patterns on
1 Fabrics

This course – DRESSMAKING I is designed for Grade 9/10 or 11/12 learners which will
lead to National Certificate Level II. Learners are expected to develop the competencies
like planning, designing and sewing sleeping garments and children’s wear. Further, this
course discusses basic knowledge and skills used in the making of desired products. It
also demonstrates different techniques and processes which will guide the learner in
developing the skills and knowledge to work effectively and efficiently.

What’s New
GAME TIME!
Scrambled Letters: Rearrange the letters in the box to form the word that best describes
the statements below. Write your answer in your quiz notebook.

A R C F B S
1. It is a piece of cloth used in making dresses.

T E P N T R
2. It is a prototype or guide in dressmaking before cutting the fabric.

S R I E O S C S W
3. It is a way of folding the fabric corner to corner.

T A R P I L A
4. It is folding pieces of fabrics so that one section of the fabric forms a
double layer on a fold and the other forms a single layer.

Y U L T A O S
5. It is a blueprint in dressmaking done before cutting a fabric.

Well done! You are now ready to face the challenges of setting your goals and targets
about this module. What are your expectations in this module? (Write your answer
in your quiz notebook.)

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 What is It
LAYING OUT PATTERN TO THE FABRIC

Laying out your pattern on the fabric in preparation for cutting is an important step. It
must be done carefully and accurately for great-looking results.

The following are directions in laying-out pattern pieces:

1. Pattern preliminaries

Be sure you have all the necessary pattern pieces. Most instruction sheets, list
pieces by letter or number next to the layout diagrams.

Make changes or fitting alterations

to the pattern. If you significantly alter a
garment's length, you may need extra
yardage to make sure you have a
workable layout. Press the pattern
pieces with a dry iron set to a low
temperature so that they're easier to
work with.

Pre-shrink your fabric if necessary and make sure the grain is straight. Do this by:
a. tearing across the grain at the ends of your fabric piece (if it's firmly woven),
b. pulling a thread across the width of the fabric at the ends,
c. cutting along a dominant line in the pattern or weave,
d. fold lengthwise, matching selvages, to see whether the ends now match, and
e. If they don't and the fabric needs to be straightened, gently pull on the fabric's

length from opposite corners.

f.

2. Laying-out Pattern Pieces

When positioning pattern pieces with straight arrows,

keep the arrows parallel to the selvage so that the fabric
will be straighten when cut. Pieces with a straight line
and bent arrows should be cut double on the fabric. For
a fabric with a nap, the lay out must run in the same
direction and so a pattern piece can be reversed, placed
printed side down, and cut on a single layer.

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3. Folded Pieces of Fabric

4. Single Layer of Fabric

5. Layouts for Fabric with Nap or One-Way Design

Fabrics with a nap or one-way design must be laid out in one direction. Decide on the
“top” of the fabric, and follow this direction when placing the pattern pieces, so the nap
will run in one direction. One-way designs are arranged on the fabric according to the
pattern or the garment design.

a. Crosswise Fold
There are two reasons for a fabric to be folded crosswise at the layout stage. Often,
this type of fold is made to accommodate the widest pattern pieces. Alternatively, it may
be needed to fit those pattern pieces with a complex shape onto the fabric area.

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b. Crosswise Fold with Nap
When a crosswise fold cutting layout is used with a fabric that has a nap, it
requires a special layout method. The fabric is folded with wrong sides together, and
cut into two pieces along the folds. The top layer is then turned around so that the nap
runs in the same direction on both layers of fabric.

c. Partial Fold

The fabric is folded partways for this layout, so that one section of the fabric forms a
double layer on a fold and the other forms a single layer. If a pattern piece is to be cut
from a single layer, cut out only the piece from the single fabric layer.

PINNING TOOLS
1. Pincushion – holds the straight pins and needles while workng to prevent accidents.
2. Hand needle – used in making temporary stitches and buttonholes.
3. Sewing needle threader – aids in putting the thread to the needle.
4. Thimble – is a small hard pitted cup worn for protection on the finger that pushes the
needle in sewing.

Pinning a Pattern to Fabric

Before pinning the pattern pieces to fabric:
1. Fold the fabric in half lengthwise with right side together, unless the cutting layout
shows otherwise. Each pattern piece has a straight grainline arrow or a bent arrow for
an edge placed on the fold. Straight grain line arrow must be parallel to the selvage or
fold. Pin the pieces to the fabric.

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 Check the distance from each grainline arrow end to the selvage has the same
measurement. Check also if the fold edge of the pattern pieces aligns with the fabric
fold, otherwise the piece will be smaller or larger than the correct size. Pin each of the
arrow ends to the fabric, and pin around the pattern pieces.
1. The fabric is laid out and folded according to the pattern directions.

2. The selvage is lined up along the corner and along the table’s edge (or T-square).
3. If not square, trim the CUT side (not selvage) until both sides are square and lines
are up to the tables edge.
4. Two sides of most tables could be used in a pinch.
a. Line up one end of the ruler on a set of straight parallel lines outside the fabric.

b. Find the grain line on the pattern. In exhibit B the ruler’s edge is lined up on
the pattern grain line.
c. Adjust pattern if necessary. When both ends line up, pin in place starting with a
pin in the grain line.

NOTE: Always minimize pin holes if possible. Line up the grain line on the pattern and
the grain line on the fabric, parallel to the selvage.

What I Have Learned

The following are directions in laying-out pattern pieces:

1. Fold the fabric with the right side under and the wrong side, up.
2. Lay-out the biggest pattern first before the smaller ones.
3. Make a temporary pattern lay-out, especially if the cloth is not too small.
4. Place the pattern pieces near one another. Fit the pattern as in a jigsaw puzzle.
5. Do not cut the fabric until all pattern pieces are in place. This done by arranging and
rearranging the pattern pieces to ensure the best arrangement.

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Here are the steps on how to pin the patterns to the fabric:

1. Pin the pattern to the edge of the fabric. Keep the fabric on the table.
2. Place the pins perpendicular to the edge of the pattern.
3. Place the pins about 1.5 cm from the edges.
4. Pin the fabric at an interval of 13 cm. too many pins on the cloth tend to wrinkle it.
5. The pattern will not get out of the place when cut, if more pins are placed along curved
edges.

Think about these questions. Put your heart on it while you’re answering. This is easy!
Write your answer in your quiz notebook.

1. How was your experience engaging in lay-out and pinning of pattern to fabrics for
sleeping garments?

2. Were you able to benefit from it? How?

3. What insights have you learned?

Assessment

Multiple Choice: Directions: Read and understand the following items below. Select
the best answer then write the letter of your answer in your quiz
notebook.

1. The fabric is folded part ways for this layout, so that one section of the fabric forms a
double layer on a fold and the other forms a single layer.
a. Crosswise fold c. Crosswise Fold with Nap
b. Partial Fold d. Partial Fold with nap
2. When positioning pattern pieces with straight arrows, keep the arrows ________ to
the selvage so that the fabric will be straightened when cut.
a. vertical b. along c. Across d. Behind
3. When a crosswise fold cutting layout is used with a fabric that has a nap, it requires
a special layout method. The fabric is folded with wrong sides together, and cut into
two pieces along the folds.
a. Crosswise fold c. Crosswise Fold with Nap
b. Partial Fold d. Partial Fold with nap
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4. In partial fold, the fabric is folded _________ for this layout so that one section of the
fabric forms a double layer on a fold and the other forms a single layer.
a. crosswise b. half lengthwise c. Lengthwise d. Crosswise fold
5. Before pinning the pattern pieces to fabric, fold the fabric in half lengthwise with
____side together.
a. right b. center c. Left d. None of a, b, c
6. Crosswise fold is a type of fold that is made to accommodate the widest pattern
pieces.
a. Crosswise fold c. Crosswise Fold with Nap
b. Partial Fold d. Partial Fold with nap
7. In crosswise fold with nap, the fabric is folded with wrong sides together, and cut into
two pieces along the folds.
a. true b. false c. Maybe d. It depends
8. Before pinning the pattern pieces to fabric, fold the fabric in ____ with right side
together, unless the cutting layout shows otherwise.
a. crosswise c. Straight grain line
b. half lengthwise d. Parallel to the selvage
9. In pinning the fabric, straight grain line arrow must be opposite to the selvage or fold.
Pin the pieces to the fabric.
a. opposite b. reverse c. Parallel d. None of a, b, c
10. Which of the following is incorrect in pinning the fabric?
a. The fabric is laid out and folded according to the pattern directions.
b. The selvage is lined up along the corner and along the table’s edge.
c. If not square, trim the CUT side (not selvage) until both sides are square and
lines are up to the table’s edge.
d. All sides of the tables could be used in a pinch.

References
K to 12 Home Economics – Dressmaking 9 LM
Chavez, Dominga Carolina, et.al., K to 12 Technology and Livelihood Education.
Dressmaking/ Tailoring Exploratory Learning Materials.
https://depedteacher.com/teaching-materials-and-learners-materials-tgs-lms-junior-
highschool-grade-7-8