Professional Documents
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Rdworks Learning Lab Index (Up To 220)
Rdworks Learning Lab Index (Up To 220)
Cutting Technology
Introduction
This technically is a video diary of my mistakes and successes as I gradually come to terms with the
mysteries of owning one of this little Chinese dragons. It seems illogical that a diary should have an index.
That is something done by historians (after my passing) who have too much time on their hands waiting for
history to happen!!!
However, after being put into a pschycological headlock, I have relented and with the help of Gene Uselman
who has carefully created the skeleton of this index, I have added pertinent bullet points to each video to
help others find elements of interest.
This bullet point index has been made a year into my learning journey when I am older and wiser. It must be
remembered at all times that this is a video record of me learning about a technology that is very poorly
documented and in my naivety I make (what I can now see as) lots of silly mistakes. Where it is appropriate,
I warn of my error BUT in the spirit of leaving the work as an unedited record of discovery I leave you to
watch ahead to that point where I begin to realize and correct those errors
Thanks for your interest.
Russ July 2016
Chinese laser cutter tutorial
part 1... Intro and unpacking machine
https://youtu.be/YvrMeUUzaBo
• Introduction to the machine
• A look at what you get for your money
• The DIY water tank
• Tour of the machine
• A look at the engineering quality
• Doubts about the aluminium table
part 6... Focus guage and early mode burn depth tests
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUdEUxJH2_o
• Making a focus setting gauge
• Testing beam power and size of beam with different focus distances
in a block of acrylic
• Depth of cut tests with different speeds and no air assist (not recommended as
there is a risk of fogging the lens)
• Depth of cut tests with different air assist pressures
• Beam penetration results (more air assist pressure=shallower cut) True for
acrylic but not all materials
• In my ignorance I mention using 100% power. I didn’t know at this point that
100% power was there but NOT to be used!!!!
11p1...Rotary
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wyevrQXaGRo
• Disconnect Y axis plug and plug in rotary device
• Orienting the rotary device onto the machine table
• Discover direction of keyboard arrows
• Understanding 90 degree rotation of program
• Designing and programming a test program with 150mm reference lines
• Set rotary device true to table
• Power machine on and find the roller 0,0
14p2...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HbvMs0sM16Q
• Picture remounted on 2mm acrylic for 2nd attempt
• Maybe substitute tri wall card for honeycomb
• 3rd attempt 95% power (NO!!!!!!!)
• Finally success
• Stupid test…… engraving sliced bread!!!
4 Month Review
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g5k6YhNqfSw
• My experiences and modifications so far
• Making a target holder and targets for checking that beam is coming out of the
nozzle perpendicular to the table.
• Remove mirror 3 and modify holes to allow more float
• Move the head ONTO the beam centre and reset it square and true.
• Discovery that lens is fitted “wrong” way
• Now easier to get beam vertical
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mN7_4h3nCZM
• Description of how the carbon dioxide depletes inn your tube.
• Final proof graph of why your tube dies.
• Parallax confirms “dissociation” as the cause of death for a tube.
• Examination of my old tube to try and find out why it was so bad.
• Fit original tube back into machine for testing
• Add heat transfer grease to gap on mirror
• Did it improve its performance? Is it worth keeping?
38p2...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AcCBPiQXFrI
• Examination of the wandering beam and the effect it could have on the cutting
accuracy
• Mirror 2 mount seemed to be the root cause…very flimsy and being twisted by
torque from the cable guide chain
• Stiffen the bracket with additional screw
• Discovery that mirror mount limits bracket adjustment.
• 10mm plywood test cut at 6mm/sec.
• Check on power at cutting surface 27 watts!!!
• Quick look at the heating / anti-freeze system
44p2...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pl6dAWOkksM
• Burn mark misses mirror 3 Why?
• Adjust laser tube alignment, NOT a mirror
• Pulse test and align the mirrors
• Move the head onto beam centre, you may have to make your own bracket.
55p1...MAX-MIN POWER-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=38fBha5rqxI
• Observation of power overload at corners and finish of cut
55p2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsY1Ul7fBn0
• Rerun of test to examine effects by cutting acrylic with equal max/min power
• Change power to 65%/10%. No effect on corner depth
55p3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5iHjA7Hef8
• Review of my edit capabilities.
• This is what happens when I make a stupid mistake
55p4... summation
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vqQyhW4uSsM
• Narrowing the search area for a good setting
• Examination of results
• Very narrow zone of settings that work
• Test of observations
• Finding the “needle in the haystack”
67 Etching on Slate
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LC26tA2D4J4
• Change of subject while I think more about what action to take on the stepper
issue
• Testing the engraving capability on SLATE
• Preparing a photo ready to engrave
• Import into RDWorks and set parameters
• Calculate the ideal INTERVAL
• Change to 2” focal length lens
• Test scan on substitute slate
• Finish design
• Leave outside shape and set cut to low %power so that it does not cut. This is
so that I can line up slate with image
• Change lens to 1.5” focal length
• Second test at higher speed 300mm/s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wupSN8mXlus
• Using the laser world’s anal thermometer to quickly check your machine’s
health
• Using the dohicky to check power out f the tube.
• Discussion of what “tube life” might mean
• Rerun the tube characterization tests to check for power loss after 6 months
• How to check mirror power losses
• Using the red dot pointer to set a reference beam BEFORE removing any
mirrors
• .Removing , polishing and resetting the copper mirrors.
• Finding serious mirror problems and lens issues.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hJahkB0zrms
• Doing some mode burn tests to discover that the beam shape and power is
changing between mirrors
• Explanation of why the problem exists (curved edge mirrors)
• Forced to change back to original Molybdenum mirrors to gte beam shape back
• Mode burns again to check beam shape remains constant
• Machine back to reasonable whilst awaiting proper copper mirrors and new
lens from China.
• Run a demanding test program to check performance.
• Final use of the anal thermometer to prove machine is back in good beam
condition even though not as good as it could/should be.
• Experiments to look at the RAMP feature that is only available when SCAN is
selected.
• Examination of the results an comparing with 3 D engraving and standard
engraving.
• Observation of the “curtain effect”
• Discovering a FIRE in the machine.
• Examination of the damage caused by the fire.
• Look at the wood that caught fire.
• A more in depth analysis of what the root cause of the curtain effect might be
• Lookat fundementals of toothed belts and pulleys
• Analysis of non-linear motion BETWEEN tooth pitches
• Proving that belt stretches every pitch
• 16 teeth is not really enough for smooth motion
• Conclusion is to live with the problem but mitigate it by finding an ideal medium
tension.
84 My New Adventure
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MTUJUkT9cxo
• A new air assist pump (double the output). Is there any benefit to having it?
• Using a 2” FL lens to cut 10mm plywood
• 1.5” lens cuts at 15mm.sec That’s a starting benchmark
• 2” lens will NOT match that speed so drop speed right back to 5mm/sec
• Demonstration of the “tissue test” to check edge charring
• Analysis of the current air assist flow path.
• Identifying CHOKE points and fixing them
• Seeing the benefit of improved air FLOW
• Does the new pump provide better cutting? Yes 50% better.
• Make an extension nozzle to reduce the air gap
• Testing to show a 70% improvement with new pump
• Testing the small pump but with a reduced air gap gives 50% increase
• 1.5” lens shows no benefit from the large capacity pump.
• The success of my paper targets for the Thinklaser machine has prompted me
to design similar items to fit this machine.
• Programming the parts (just a reminder)
• Assembling and gluing the parts
• The copper mirrors are not what I ordered. They turned out to be gold flashed.
• Setting the laser pulse button to a fixed pulse time.
• Setting the red dot pointer to target 3
• Testing the power out of the tube (into mirror 1)
• Review of results for mirror 1 (a moly mirror)
• Fitting a new Ebay mirror to position 1
• Resetting the mirror using the red dot reference beam.
• REMOVE THE REFERENCE BEAM
• Checking the power output visually
• Use the power meter to gain efficiency figures. The gold mirror seems to be
pretty poor. Why?
• Testing to see what size the 5 or 6mm claimed beam size actually is
• Check the beam size with an acrylic mode burn target
• Understanding the energy required and size of the mode burn hole.
• Look at the hole in the card where the scorch mark is as big as 9mm!!
• Using a thermocouple to find the real edge of the beam.
• Analysis of the available mirror width 12.6mm
• Maybe the edge of the beam is at 11mm diameter
• Realtime demo of a mirror swap using my special tools.
• Using MY copper mirror carry out a new efficiency test
• Review of lots of test results after resetting beam to correctly hit the mirror
centre.
• No conclusion yet
93 Oh No…Not a MK7!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfmlyMc8hJ4
• A quick test of my Ebay GOLD mirrors shows loss of 10% loss across 2
mirrorrs.
• Is it gold flashing or just something yellow and shiny?
• Using the gold mirrors to cut 2mm acrylic with my own design 1.5” lens.
• Tube extension allows me to make a common design for both my machines.
• Assembly and gluing of pieces.
• Using a rubber band instead of springs!!!!!
• Quick demo.
• Why am I in Florida?
• Danny Martinez is a US importer of Bodor Laser machines
• Quick review of some changes I made to Danny’s trial machine.
• Visit by Chuck Williams to discuss my worries about High Frequency Impact
Engraving
• Chuck discusses in some detail how the laser tube and the HV power supply
work with each other
• His discussion is about ionizing the nitrogen gas which is the DRIVING force
within the laser tube. This energized nitrogen is NOT the laser beam, that
interaction with CO2 is a completely separate process.
• Theoretical construction of a simple power supply….. not very inefficient and
not all that practical
• Discussion about how a real practical power supply is constructed.
• Various frequencies exist within the power supply
• Look at scope pictures of signals as cutting occurs.
• Look at High Frequency Impact Engraving signals and setting my mind at rest
that although the instantaneous currents may be VERY high, their duration is
so fleeting as to not cause damage to the tube
• Demonstration of how I go about checking the REAL rather than the claimed
beam diameter.
• IMPORTANT. Remove your lens before carrying out this test
• Start off using mid power about 40 watts and burn to a maximum hole.
• Set to full power and the burn gets even bigger, indicating that the beam size is
not a constant feature but power related.
• It was necessary to open the lens down tube to accommodate my beam
diameter.
• Examining the power profile within the beam by burning into a piece of thick
acrylic
• Discussion of the beam power profile
• Look at the result of the “mode burn” test
• Look at the special 1.5” fl lens I use on the Lightblade machine so that I can do
comparative testing with a more responsive power supply
• My incorrect understanding and misuse of backlash User settings
• Using the REVERSE INTERVAL to correct scan offsets.
• Summary of all my dotting discoveries
• Choosing a linear range from the tube power graph so that no correction will be
required.
• First test results seem to be showing too much power for the test speed.
• Reduced power seems to be better. Still lots of pixel peaks.
• What does defocussing do? It gets rid of the serious peaks
• Jump onto engraving a real 3D image
• 3 passes and the results are very good.
• Change the resolution from 300 or more down to 100dpi and changing to ash
wood
• Not a good result. Lots of burning
• Try without air assist. Oops lots of flame
• Can a fast cut clean it up? Not really. But it does change the background
texture from lines to pimples.
• Detail resolution does not appear to affected by setting the beam out of focus
• The suppressed power range seems to work well.
112 Checking those Dots with an Oscilloscope
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0KEg5X6wlA&t=1s
• I plan to use my little USB PicoScope to see what signals are going into the HV
power supply to control the tube.
• The beam ON/OFF signal is NOT switching pixel pulses on solid black
engraving
• Look at beam switching AND the PWM signal that controls the current flow
through the tube
• No pulses there either!!!!!!
• OK ……I have to admit that all my thoughts about pixel pulses were completely
WRONG
• Lets check the 3D engraving swatch
• Wrong again. No pixel pulses.
• Import the checker board pattern into RDWorks and it shows as a mid grey
rectangle
• The scope pictures show discrete switching for isolated pixels
• A solid black pattern shows no sign of individual pixels .
• A dithered picture reveals variable ON/OFF beam switching but constant
power
• 3D engraving signals show beam ON/OFF at beginning/end of scan and
varying current throughout the scan caused by the grey scale level.
• Are we looking at stepper motor pulses causing my phantom pixels?
• That’s another whole investigation
113 What the FACULA is going on
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6F32EjrQLDQ&t=210s
• The controller talks to the tube via the HV power supply via just TWO wires.
• One to switch the beam ON/OFF and one to set/control the current level.
• Individual isolated dots can be seen to switch the tube on and off
• Greyscale can be seen to change the current level according to the grey scale
pixel shade
• What is FACULA?
• Design a simple grey scale test pattern and demonstrate it working the red and
blue wires.
• Set up the machine to SPECIAL mode and 50%
• The red signal shows 20khz PWM signal at a constant grey scale current value
and the blue signal (which would normally be ON during burning) is switching
on and off at 10khz with 50% on and 50% off
• Reset FACULA to 75%
• Now the 10khz blue signal is 25% off and 75% on
• Reset FACULA to 99%
• Yes, that proves that all FACULA setting is A) switching the normally constant
beam on and off automatically at a rate of 10khz. B) Adjusting the % setting
changes the ratio of beam on and off time
• How does this change the beam size?
• Explanation of how beam exposure TIME is important for determining beam
size.
• Can I replicate this effect with DOT mode?
• No. Although DOT mode promises dots at 1khz max, I was only able to achieve
750 hz at best.
114 Can we Dither Greyscale images
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pwOY-U6BB8o
• This question arose from a dithered file that someone sent me which had also
been set for greyscale engraving. Was this someone just ticking all the boxes in
ignorance or was there a secret buried here worth investigating?
• Now that I can use the oscilloscope to view current levels and beam switching
we should be able to answer the question
• Import a colour picture to RDWorks and it automatically turn it to greyscale
• Dither the picture and close examination displays a picture with 6 grey levels
instead of the expected 2 (black and white)
• We are only running the program as a test, we are not actually engraving a
picture
• First test is normal dithered settings with max min power set the same.
• As expected, current was constant and beam on/off was switching to match
pixels and pixel groups.
• Reset power to 10% and 50% and set output direct to generate greyscale
engraving.
• Do we see grey levels in our dithered image? NO!!
• So it is confirmed that RDWorks is telling lies when it adds greys to our
displayed dithered picture.
• Starting again with the same picture but this time we dither with GREYSCALE
rather than DOTS
• Now we can see current changes for every pixel and we have therefore created
a greyscale image for engraving
• Examination of the trace for a speed of 50mm/sec and 120ppi clearly shows the
machine is cleanly changing current for EVERY pixel.
• What happens if we run at 200mm/sec (4 times speed) can the machine still
respond?
• Yes. We can see 1ms per pixel for small grey scale steps
• How about 400mm/sec
• Seems too fast, so check at300mm/sec
• Pixels just about discernable so we should not attempt greyscale at pixel times
of less than 0.75ms
• All looks good at the electronic signal level but I can only guess what the output
power from the tube will look like after those signals have passed through the
power supply and the gas physics of the tube
• After making some assumptions I do a real world test of a greyscale dithered
picture
• Conclusion. Rubbish ….stick to dot dithering for photo engraving
• This formulaic approach has been designed and tested for organic materials
such as wood, card, leather and low formaldehyde content MDF.. It may work
on mineral materials but that has yet to be researched.
• Choose the shortest focal length lens that your machine will take.
• Choose your material
• Important to understand the principles of binary dot engraving.
• The ratio between the dots and the background is paramount for a crisp picture
• Organic materials have a scorching colour range where as something like clear
acrylic does not. It’s a binary material that engraves white. This is the opposite
of burning and hence when working with acrylic you have to make the image a
negative before engraving .
• Set your lens to the ideal focal position
• I have designed a test pattern to help determine the smallest spot size.
• I use step gauges to set/test the best focus point.
• Use a magnifier to view your results
• How to decide on the dot size by using the test pattern.
• Converting that dot size back to a Pixels Per Inch resolution.
• Modifying the brightness and contrast of a picture
• Resizing and setting the resolution of the picture and dot dither.
• Setting the interval is very important
• CALCULATE the speed …...DONT guess it
• Reset the head position in the config system settings
• Explanation of what happens if you ignore the resolution rules.
• Testing to find the best power setting
• Cross flow of air and almost zero air assist is essential
• Examination of a very good end result.
• A look at another picture done on the Lightblade machine. One picture done
with a 2” lens and a second with a 1.5” lens. Big difference. 1.5” lens wins
• The design work has already been done for the Lightblade machine but for
various reasons has not been fitted
• This session is all about adapting that design to suit the China Blue machine
• Examining the various critical dimensions around the machine that will dictate
the design.
• Lots of boring CAD video with explanation for various design decisions.
• Programming the parts for cutting
• After doing lots of acrylic cutting of the parts the cooling water temperature is
around 41C. Not over worried about the high temperature because power has
not decreased.
• Assembly and gluing the parts together.
• Using one of the new mirror mounts for mirror 1
• Adding a red dot pointer to the assembly. (the mk7 design.)
• Assembly complete ready for installation and testing next session.
• Demonstration of the light pipe principle using a laminar flow water stream to
show the beam being turned away from a straight line exactly like fibre optics.
• Discussion of what might happen when we fire a 60 watt beam through a 1.5”
FL lens at the surface of an 80mm block of acrylic
• Test 1, Wow. Explain what you are seeing. How is this possible?
• The same tests with a 2” FL lens
• Observation of the effect of lowering the focal point into the material
• Discussion about the hot gas cloud the happens as the acrylic evaporates.
• The gas cloud effect that causes cut striations on the edge of acrylic.
• The difference between static and dynamic effect on acrylic.
• Summary of what curtains are is there any way to get rid of them
• We concluded that the problem was a replication of the timing belt pattern
• Could it be that a lead screw fixes the problem. Too expensive and complex to
implement
• How about a rack and pinion drive system? No BUT this triggered a lightbulb
moment
• Let’s remove the timing belt
• Let’s reverse the timing belt ….Mad or not ????
• My temporary smooth roller bracket demonstrates the principle of using the
belt almost like a rack and pinion system. and showed that the belt was a
fraction too long
• The Mk2 design was made of steel and fixed a couple of problems identified
with the temporary mk1 design.
• Because the belt has been reversed, the direction of motor drive has also
reversed so the vendor properties have to be changed to reverse the X motor.
• Various repeat tests of the curtain parameters demonstrates clearly that the
CURTAINS have gone!!!
• A smug summary of my success
• This project will be two sessions. The first will be the design and manufacture of
a motorless rotary engraver and the second will be testing it.
• I claim no credit for this design idea, I am just adapting the principle to a more
suitable design for my machines.
• Yet another plug for the benefits of a solid steel table
• Step by step assembly and gluing the parts together (with tips)
• Having assembled the frame we now discuss the design of the special wheels
that I am making myself.
• When assembled the wheels did not live up to expectations so I had to design a
mk2 design with 2 bearings to remove the wheel wobble.
• Discussion and step by step assembly of the mk2 wheels
• Assembly of the live end stops
• Demonstration of the simple principles of this design
• Our first test will be to engrave a biscuit making pattern on a rolling pin
• Creating the pattern in RDWorks
• We need a flat surface in the machine to make the device work
• Adding the pusher bar to the machine
• Why elastic bands?
• Understand the max size for your graphic
• Setting up the rolling pin in the fixture
• Setting the origin point
• Success 1 with wood
• Engraving a glass bottle.
• Principle of etching glass
• Tricks for glass engraving that people advocate.
• I use molybdenum disulphide spray as a heat moderator
• Choose a suitable photo image and modify it to a sensible resolution based on
our previous photo engraving experience
• Set the rotary device to suit the bottle
• Set the origin and define the cutting parameters.
• Check the result. Reasonable 1st attempt
• Modify picture resolution and parameters for a much improved 2 nd attempt
• Great first step to exploring glass engraving along with the perfect proving trial
for the non-motorized rotary device
• I know that the Lightblade machine has a cut squareness issue when working
with thicker materials such as 8,10 and 12mm materials
• Demonstration and analysis of the problem
• Rotating the air assist /lens through 90 degree increments shows that the
problem remains the in same direction regardless of the lens position
• Using a red dot laser pointer to show how the focused beam is VERY sensitive
to beam alignment
• What is the sweet spot?
• Having accurately measured the Lightblade head and drawn a detailed CAD
diagram of where the lens axis intersects the mirror, I know that the centre of
the inlet port is the correct aiming point to hit the sweet spot.
• A scorch test on the inlet port shows the beam to be about 1.5mm high.
• The only way to lower the beam by 1.5mm is to drop the tube down by that
amount. Possible, yes, but that runs the risk of upsetting the whole beam
alignment.
• With no vertical adjustment on this head mount I decide to shim the head UP by
1,5mm to catch the beam at the correct position.
• Using a centring jig I establish that the Z beam alignment is now central and
axially true
• Back to cutting a test square and evaluating the result
• Stressing the importance of understanding if the head design sets the sweet
spot at the centre of your inlet port. DO NOT ASSUME THE DESIGN IS
CORRECT.
126 RDWorks Learning Lab 126 3D Engraving Is this the FINAL Chapter Part 1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0E6VfQD9n2o
• Discussion of the strange links and discoveries that will eventually lead to 3D
engraving success
• Discussion of beam energy distribution.
• Our beam is NOT a beam of heat but is a beam of LIGHT
• Energy transfer mechanism…… VERY IMPORTANT
• Etching stainless with MoS2, then sulphur powder then engine oil
• Observe the bright white “flame”
• A chemical reaction is occurring between the stainless and sulphur at very high
temperatures
• White light is not for free . The Kelvin light scale says about 5000C
• Discussion of how wood burns, sublimating the carbon at something over
3000C
• Running a test matrix of varying power on MDF at different speeds
• Review of matrix results for 3 different lenses Trying to find. to determine how
we can get a burn free removal of material.
• Discussion of how to linearize the power characteristic so that we get linearized
power burn as we do our 3D engraving
• Source for 3D engraving images.
• How to use Photoshop to distort the greyscale levels to allow for the power non
linearity
• Making a crude mechanism to try and get steady (non step) motion for moving
acrylic under a fixed head/beam.
• The results are abysmal
• Despite the terrible results it does show up a sort of layering effect with
horizontal striations.
• The horizontal striations are also there for normal stepper motor cutting
• Restatement of the energy transfer principles yet again.
• Demonstration of water being boiled by a beam of light
• Understanding a scientific definition of temperature
• An explanation of the energy transfer mechanism
• Proposed explanation for horizontal layer evaporation process within acrylic
• Possible reason for better striations with the stepper motor.
• Still more work to do on this.
• Review of what minerals are and the properties required for successful
production of dots.
• Geology lesson….yawn!!!
• Starting with slate we use a 2” meniscus lens and run a test matrix
• Also run a matrix test with Special mode
• Wide range of parameters will work for slate
• Marble seems quite good
• Limestone OK but not brilliant
• Granite seems to produce glass in one of its constituents
• Quartz, a man made stone is bound together with some sort of polymer binder
and burns black. However the black brushes away . No good contrast.
• Cimstone, another quarts man made product needs further investigation under
the microscope.
• Review of each material to see if there is a good colour difference to produce a
binary image.
• Slate is the only obvious material that seems capable of picture work.
• Microscopic view of what happens when you engrave slate. It is not a sharding
mechanism but a glass conversion process.
• Before starting photo engraving on slate we must find the smallest dots
possible by choosing the best speed and power
• Microscope pictures help us determine what size dots we have achieved
• We must set the resolution to match the dot size.
• Although, again, because this is a binary material you cannot get over burning
and it looks as though we can do hi res pictures when in reality we are fooling
ourselves.
• A look at different resolution results
• How a bigger picture at lower resolution appears to produce s better picture
• Testing with higher resolution but at slow speed
• Comparing hard Chinese slate to softer more expensive Italian slate
• A comparison with a fine granite. …a poor alternative
• We rejected man made quartz but there may be a way of exploiting its
properties for certain applications
• Block engraving on green slate and granite will be successful where phots will
fail.
• Photo engraving a piece of white man made quartz material we rejected
earlier. Wow what a surprise.
• This time of looking at Max/Min power I understand more about the way the
machine works and have my little USB oscilloscope to help me see what’s
going on.
• Look at the scope signals for cutting a normal square with max and min set
equal..
• Look at scope pictures for some “magic” numbers
• You can now see that there is a power ramping taking place which is
proportional to speed as squre drives in and out of each corner.
• As this first test shows, if the magic number for min power is too low thren
corners remain uncut
• Reset min to 10% and problems are almost solved
• Jump to 20% and all the benefits of min power a lost
• The range of setting for effective use of this min power is very narrow and will
always require you to experiment with the material and lens you are using at
the time.
• Quick review of how the machine creates single black engraving dots for
dithered images.
• Response time of power supply is key to rapid single dots
• Summary of what in store for this video
• Lightburnsoftware.com for 30 day trial
• Create a scanning offset test program
• Use this pattern to assess the response time of your HV power supply
• Step through the Russ Formula with small modifications to allow for the NEW
response speed of the power supply
• Close look at the dot test with 2.5” lens to get the best focus/power/speed.
• Microscope examination of results comparing different card types for testing
• Results just mediocre so change to 2” lens
• Microscope results better but still not good. Swap to 1.5” Lens
• Much better dots even at 200mm/s so the calculated response of the power
supply seems to be proven.
• Quick look at the Lightburn software and its great features, especially the photo
engraving features.
• Examination of the various dither options available in Lightburn
• Emphasis on getting the right DOT quality for the material you are using
BEFORE you attempt any photo engraving
• OOPS……Forgot to correct the scan line offset that we used to assess HV
power supply response speed. This MUST be corrected or the dots will be
mis-registered line by line and creating a fuzzy image.
• It is important to set the test speed to that of the scanning speed you plan to use
for your image scanning
• You will need to go to Config, System setting to add the Scanning Reverse
Offset factor and then repeat the test until you get near perfection.
• First picture comparison is pretty good. Just the right tone
• Further review of factors in Russ Formula to test an increased resolution.
• Comparison with an RDWorks image.
• Close examination of all the dither types
• The magic effect of picture size
• Microscope examination of the dots for each dither system
• Hi res photo engraving relies on producing VERY small crisp black BURNT
dots with our laser technology.
• Single lenses seem to hit a brickwall at about 0.2mm ie 127dpi…..a fairly low
resolution
• A quick look at different lens mounting systems, ie in nozzle or tube
• A look at lens shapes and the reason why a meniscus lens may be the best for
producing small dots.
• Small dots may be produced by just kissing the very high density at the centre
of the focused beam but the chances are there will still be low energy around it
to produce a scorch halo.
• Certain materials cannot be over burnt or scorched.
• Thunder laser sell an expensive compound lens assembly claiming to be
capable of burning 1000dpi. but I have no idea of the lens combinations used.
or the internal spacing configuration
• I have designed my own special nozzle to experiment with combinations of two
different focal length lenses. The principle being to use a 4”l ens to reduce the
beam size before it passes through a second shorter focal length lens.
• We are now hunting for the smallest possible clean burnt dot.
• Using acrylic with my standard dot test to see if we can produce halo-free dots
• With experimentation with speed and power and also a meniscus 2” lens it
seems possible to get 0.1 dots (just)
• Can we find a better result with Special Mode?
• Yes it seems better so I use Lightburn to run a 254dpi picture
• Testing with cast and also extruded acrylic the results were disappointing
• Change to Newsprint dither pattern at 254dpi Results look good
• Then at 508dpi for pretty good results
• Move to wood for testing. At 508dpi
• Slightly different woods and different grain directions create massive final
image differences
• Did I damage the 2nd lens by concentrating the power to a high energy spot?
• I have not been able to get anywhere near the Thunderlaser 1000dpi claim
• Challenge to Thunderlaser owners to make 0.025mm dots with their HR
lenses.
• Trying to give some visual cues as to exactly what a 0.0254mm dot (1000dpi)
looks like.
• Review of some background tests that I had conducted changing lenses and
distances between lenses.. Shorter spacing gave better results.
• Testing the idea of obscuring the low energy part of the beam and only allowing
the higher energy central part to reach the lens.
• Quick and dirty results with various size orifices indicate the obscuration of any
sort does not help get better dots.. The smaller the orifice the worse the dot.
• More dot tests using acrylic. Results showing great 0.1mm dot consistency.
• A closer look at newsprint dithering and why it seems to work at twice the
predicted resolution for a given dot size.
• Comparison of picture on different card types. and different dithers and
different parameters.
• The promise of a owner’s Thunder laser lens loan may allow us to solve the
claim.
• Upon reflection, maybe there is another way to get a fine dot and that is to
filter out all the low energy fuzz at the focal point by grossly exaggerating
the spherical aberration rather than cancelling it.
• Stepping through the thought process and logic for my new direction.
• Using a meniscus lens as the second lens
• Lots of test patterns …..very boring but showing some great results.
• Testing again with the demanding image . Superb results at 363 dpi.
(0.7mm)
• Dot size is king and determines the resolution of the picture, however
different materials will give different dot sizes and require different
parameters
• Don’t attempt a picture until you have found the correct focus and
parameters with the dot test
• THE DOT SIZE DETERMINES THE PICTURE RESOLUTION
• Repeat the picture on acrylic so we need a negative image.
• Reason for reversing the image
• Amazing result for acrylic
• Now to test a piece of glass. Not bad
• The Mk2 compound lens pushes the dot size to 0.07mm
• We seem to have proved the principle of exaggerated spherical
aberration as a power filter.
• You can make a 0.2mm dot on most materials but not all materials allow dots
as small as 0.1mm or less
• Main aim is to see how well I can photo engrave on some foil covered PETG
and Acrylic
• The first sample failed it’s focus/dot size test and had to be abandoned.
• Second sample just a bit better so decided to run it at 127dpi
• A satin finished gold foil scored very highly as did a black woodgrain foil.
• Silver foil on a white background posed and interesting positive or negative
engraving question,
• Photoengraving test on Formica Wow. Superb at 245dpi
• Why do we need to chase 1000dpi?
• Apologies for not continuing with acrylic fest part 2 but decided to remake the
head mounting bracket while it was off to refix the belt I had previously
removed.
• Never been in love with the existing head so I have designed my own Mk1
design made from ACRYLIC sheet!!
• Cutting and assembly of the pieces
• I even make a new mirror plate from acrylic
• I have made a set of preset lens tubes
• Mounting the new head
• Quick re-polish of my copper mirror
• Setting aids to ensure precision Z
• But first setting procedure for X axis ie mirror 2
• Having set X axis true to bearing rail we need to move the head (on its
adjustment bracket) so that it “catches” the beam onto the target centre.
• Now comes the VERY important Z axis setting procedure
• Having set the beam perpendicular to the table We can now adjust the whole
head to catch the beam onto the mirror 3 “sweet spot”
• It is crucial that we set the beam to pass through the axis of the lens.
• One final check at the 4 corners to sees us requiring small resets in X and Y
• That in turn requires a final adjustment in Z
• 1.5” lens cutting 10mm plywood for a final test.
• Sticky tar residue (condensed fumes) that would normally stick to your
honeycomb table
• Instant table cleaning with acetone
• Mk1 lens module demonstration
• Quick review of advantages of the new head design
• Is this it? Or will there be a mk2?
• Testing of LaserTiles
• The importance of having a responsive power supply before attempting dot
work
• Comparing typical response specs from top to bottom of the price range
• Quick calculation to show that ANY power supply cannot deliver 1000dpi
pulses unless you scan at very slow speeds
• The importance of using the right lens to achieve the smallest dot size, which in
turn relies on a critical combination of speed and low power.
• Microscope pictures of compound lens tests on the Laser Tile
• Examination of the first test picture at 300dpi to see what success my settings
had.
• Black areas were not as black as they could be more of a grey halo.
• Just change resolution to 500dpi
• I draw your attention to the white light emitted during scanning, and indication
that the surface temperature is exceeding 2000C
• Thoughts on how these Laser Tiles are performing their magic. It’s all to do with
ceramic wizardry.
• Proof of the idea by heating the glaze to red hot without it turning black.
• Microscope pictures of the 508dpi image.
• Still not black enough, Really needs to run slower to allow more power per dot
and stay within the power supply response rules
• Sadly, running at 50mm/s means the stepper motor is setting the head into
resonance and .causing strange patterns.
• How do we unravel this puzzle? By making the lines wider and darker by
increasing the power.at 100mm/s from 14% to 16%?
• WOW!!!! LOST FOR WORDS
• So 508dpi IS achievable but under very special circumstances.
• This is truly the brick wall. So where does this leave the Thunder laser claim?
• Having used the MK1 head very successfully there were many requests for the
drawings. Upon reflection and with a 3D model in front of me to, I decided that
making special lens capsules was not the right way to proceed because
everything was bespoke.
• Mk2 was required but and would be based on standard lens tibe and nozzle
technology.
• Cutting and assembly of the Mk2
• Note. This design is only suitable for machines with an adjustable table
Although this design uses standard lens tubes it still requires a special nozzle and
modifications to the lens tube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RCoTdNJ53dw
• Fitting the MK2 head to the machine
• Demonstration of flex in the head mounting bracket
• Attempted acrylic replacement bracket turned out to be junk
• However, without this junk bracket the strange test pattern results I saw earlier
on my Mk1 head may have been harder to track down.
• Continue to set the MK2 head in Z as we have demonstrated with the Mk1
head
• We now carry out the focus test with the Mk2 head and get even worse wobbly
test results
• The acrylic bracket and the new aluminium bracket are the culprits.
• Need to design a steel stiffer bracket system.
• While the bracket is being made I have remade the head so that it is projects a
little lower and also bodged a stiffening bracket for the original aluminium
system that runs a nice steady dot test.
• New bracket arrives and is fitted.
• Go through the Z setting procedure again
• 2 more days have passed and more thoughts about how you will be able to
make this for yourself have been troubling me.. Oh dear, I feel another change
is coming!!!
• Welcome to the Mk4!!!!!!
It uses a standard UNMODIFIED lens tube system.
• This session is all about assessing the % power transmission trough the lensI
• Look at the method I am using
• Look at the calculation strategy I am using to assess transmission efficiency
• A close look at the gallium arsenide lens very shiny anti-reflective coating
makes you wonder if this can be true, surely something so shiny must reflect?
• An analysis of the results puts gallium arsenide as best performer and a few
other surprises.
.
• This one pulse at quite a long distance from the work was so explosive that
debris became deposited on the lens.. Reinforces the need for air assist
protection of the lens at all times
• The same pulse test but through 10mm plywood this time. .Burns a parallel
hole right through
• Importance of air assist and how the air assist need not be high pressure, just
efficient at getting air into the kerf.
• How is it possible for a diverging beam below the focus point to burn a parallel
hole through 10mm? a BIG unanswered question
• Small distance to work and small nozzle orifice jets the air assist efficiently into
the cut and leaves almost char-free edges
• We establish that a flow though the nozzle at 8l/min will be the air assist air flow
for all our tests because we have proved that air assist flow rate can affect cut
efficiency.
• After many hours of off camera work the results are here to be viewed.
Comparing just how fast we could run each of our 38mm lens. It was surprising
to find the cheapest Chinese PVD plano convex scored best.
• As an extra unscheduled test I used a 50.8mm GaAs and ZnSe PVD lens to
compare cutting performance against their 38.1mm brothers..
• Wow, they were several steps more efficient. But why?
• Logic says that if I put say 60watts into a 38mm spot size I get a certain energy
density to damage the material I am cutting. Move up to the next focal distance
50.8 and the spot size is twice the area . Thus the energy density is halved and
we should therefore do LESS damage to the material. Results do not support
that logic . The 2” lens cuts better but why?
• Still more understanding required……..but that’s another day after a lot more
research.
• Did the Chinese put any real thought into the design of nozzles
• Test 1 is to see just what size the beam is that arrives at the lens. The answer is
the same size as the tube window ie 12,7mm
• EFR claim this to be a 6mm beam.
• Equipment setup to establish the profile of the beam as it exits the lens
• Microscope look at the burn results
• Cad drawing to put those results into perspective for a 38mm lens
• Discussion of results.
• There is no information anywhere to say what lenses and what nozzles are
supposed to work together.
• Discussion about the defined spot size of the tube beam
• Run similar tests for 2 “ and 2.5” lenses with different nozzles
• Discussion about what size orifice would be beneficial.
• Did the designer specifically use the nozzle as a low power occlusion device?
• OR did they work from the tube manufacturers beam diameter data?
• I need to do some more research before jumping to any serious conclusions
about what we have discovered in this session.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jVGByifge_Q
• The work I have done recently with the new head has forced me to look much
harder at the fixed design of lens tubes and nozzles that has not changed since
forever!!!
• Life was simple when the choice was just one of 3 main lenses j and just one
nozzle
• With all the 3 possible nozzles , many lenses and different ideas for mounting
them in ways you had never imagined……..the matrix has exploded.
• Here step through all the new combinations
• At the time of the video the universal engraving nozzle was not existing. But
now you can go to
https://www.cloudraylaser.com/products/compound-universal-engraving-nozzl
e?variant=13488869867571
• Make sure you scroll down the web pages because they are full of useful data
• I am trying some laser rehab, but I’m not sure it’s working!!!
• The universal engraving nozzle /compound lens kit has arrived from Cloudray’
It is officially now a purchasable item
• https://www.cloudraylaser.com/products/compound-universal-engraving-nozzl
e?variant=13488869867571 make sure you scroll down the webpage for lots of
good data
• This is just a painbrush…….it will not make you a brilliant artist. There are many
basic rules I have laid out for you. This is not intended as a cutting system it is
designed for low power dithered engraving and may be of no use to those with
powerful 100 watt plus tubes if you cannot control low power in a precision
manner.
• Choose the card, wood, slate, etc carefully because not all materials react the
same ti IR light.
• Dot colour is the key thing to look for when you do your dot test.
• Here is what you get in a compound lens kit.
• And how to assemble it.
• The work table must be true to within better than 0.3mm
• Set the focus spot on with the dot test pattern so that you get sharp black dots
• You must have a picture with a natural resolution greater than the image you
are going to engrave. You can always down scale the resolution without detail
loss but if you upscale you are degrading the picture.
• Always scale your picture in RDWorks before you set the output resolution.
• In the bitmap handle set the output resolution to match the size of your dots and
the dither with dot mode.
• Set the parameters for engraving especially the line interval.
• For card engraving I have made myself a little vacuum table (a future video
project) that hold the card perfectly flat.
• It is important that we engrave from the bottom of the image towards the back
of the table
• Demonstration CROSSFLOW air through the machine and how important it is
for nice clean engraving.
• Fantastic image at 245 dpi why would you want more?
• Now for Baltic birch plywood, a nice white fairly grainless material. The only
issue with it is flatness. The Mk1 vacuum table is not powerful enough to suck it
flat
• Now we see the advantage of a flat steel table as I use neodymium magnets
• Trying different parameters for the dot test seems to limit me to a 0.15 dot ie
170dpi
• The results was OK but obviously dotty
• Rerun at 254 dpi the result was just amazing
• So wood was not the problem I had anticipated, but this was an almost
grainless wood. Anything like bamboo or other grained woods may produce
some very strange results because the grain resin engraves differently to the
surrounding cellulose.
• Summary of what you will get when you order parts from Cloudray
• A light bulb moment a couple of months ago was going to allow me to produce
high quality dithered images at high speed ……or so I thought. Quick and dirty
testing at the time were a total flop.
• So in this session, after lots of thinking during my laser rehab, I am going to give
the idea another try. It may turn out to be a genius idea or a public
demonstration of my senility
• A look at the 254 dpi chequerboard pattern ie pixels and spaces are 0.1mm
• We set the parameters and specifically set the scan mode to X unilateralism
• I interrupt the test to CUT a special high resolution focus gauge specifically for
setting this compound nozzle This will answer questions about can this
compound lens cut?
• We established focus and power using the dot test and then run the chequer
pattern at the best focus distance
• Pretty good results, Nice clear 0.1mm dots on my test card
• Run on anodized aluminium and Laser Tile the results are equally good.
• On wood the dots pattern is still there but the resin in the grain is “banding” the
pattern
• Final test on the beer mat card shows the 0.1mm dots or better pattern also
• Calculating the response speed of my power supply based on the fact that it
can burn single dots cleanly at 200mm/s, tells me it is 0.5ms response time or
better, which is twice as fast as the promised specification..
• Can we run at 400mm/s? Amazingly YES!!!!
• But I will still proceed to test my original genius idea
• Explanation of why an RF tube can run so much faster engraving than we can
with our DC controlled tubes.
• A diagram of how the tube is being switched on and off to produce the
chequerboard pattern The power is preset to a fixed value to create the right
amount of burn and then the tube switches on and off to burn the dots. Key
thing here is the tube is SWITCHING on and off.
• We are now going to walk through what greyscale engraving is that we
normally use for 3D engraving.
• So how will the tube now be controlled when the OUTPUT DIRECT switch is
enabled
• The tube now switches on for a whole scan line and then switches off. During
that scan the power is the feature that varies and it can vary from one power
level to another at almost instant speed.
• The problem is that if ever the controller detects true white (255) then it will
switch the tube OFF and now the tube has to restart at a relatively slow speed
before it can carry in with its rapid power variation.
• We must therefore modify the greyscale picture to remove any pure white
pixels. This will be done in Photoshop or some other image manipulation
program like GIMP.
• BUT, before we do this we must convert the picture into a binary dithered image
containing black pixels on a white background We must now convert this binary
bitmap back to a greyscale image and use the LEVELS feature to reset the
white 255 to say very nearly white 250. Doing this will fool the controller to
never switching off because it will never see 255 white pixels.
• Now the problem is to find the correct max and min power settings to print the
dot and running at a speed of 600mm/s
• The final result was pretty good but nowhere near as good as a normal dot
dithered picture.
• The genius idea was not an abject failure but for our machines it seem that slow
speed high quality it will have to be rather than high speed with a just about OK
quality
• The “ironman” tests we did on lenses a few sessions ago was very thought
provoking because some of the results and effects that we take for granted
defy logical reasoning
• We think of focus as a fixed entity but practical experience tells me it’s not. It
can vary with speed and power
• First question is where is the manufacturers focal point?
• Diagram and measurements to find where the focal point is.
• Clear demonstration that the focal point is not where the manufacturer set it
and it changes with speed !!!
• Crude test to demonstrate the beam fanning out before and after the focal
point.
• A look at the results under microscope shows a curiously uniform diameter
hole where the material damage threshold has been exceeded. That hole is
not fanning in and out with the beam spread.. Curious??
• Carrying out more tests with constant pulse power per burn.
• Looking at microscope images and pointing out that I cannot produce a
static dot at 2ms whereas dynamically I can lay dots that happen in 0.5ms
Curious???2
• Difference in damage treshold for two different card types
• Microscope view of different focal length burn profiles
• Trying to find the best way to display the results
• Scale drawings of the various focal lengths show some surprising results.
• Lets try something ridiculous with a 2.5” GaAs lens. A block of 10mm thick
acrylic set 9mm below the focal point using all the previous test parameters.
• Acrylic damage threshold is significantly different but we can still make a
small hole in the surface so even at this extreme distance there is still some
high central energy density
• By increasing the TIME only, we allow the available energy to act on the
acrylic. 1 second allows this DEFOCUSED beam to burn a virtually
PARALLEL hole through10mm material. Even more curious??
• One more test to see the shape of a 1 sec burn done with the material set at
the focal point and then 9mm above the focal point.
• The results are still almost parallel holes regardless of whether the beam is
converging or diverging
• Questions about this phenomenon have been asked of MANY expert and
learned establishments. No satisfactory explanations have been
forthcoming.
• The theory that this effect is due to the light pipe effect of total internal
energy reflection is logically dissembled.
• Conclusion is that there seems to be a thin core of high energy that is doing
this damage.
• It seem that lens theory is not quite the same as lens practice. There are
some interesting discoveries that do not appear in books. The beam’s
energy density does not just happen at the focal point
• We have a demonstration of the method used to map the energy density
within the beam both above and below the focal point.
• Each lens being tested is set to its perfect “dynamic” focal point and the
table is dropped 20mm below that focal point , The pulse power is set to 60
watts for a fixed 20ms pulse
• A “burn” is made in a piece of thin standard test card.
• The table is ten raised in predefined steps all the way to 20mm above the
focal point and “burns” are made at each step.
• We see the holes caused by the high energy part of the beam and the halo
around the hole where the out of focus lower energy has only been able to
scorch the card.
• The test is quite quick but measuring the result and converting it into a
meaningful graphical format is a laborious process.
• It’s necessary to collect this data before trying to work out why different
lenses cut the same material at different speeds and different cut profiles
AND why the same lens cuts different materials at different speeds.
• A detailed look at the many different lens materials, lens shapes,
orientations and powers used for the tests
• A detailed explanation of different lens types and the way they focus the
energy
• Our Chinese lenses are not capable of achieving anywhere near the
published “spot” size
• That is clearly demonstrated when a comparison of the same lens tested 4
different ways is neither consistent or anywhere close to the generally
accepted spot size.
• Testing a special 4” lens configuration to find a “super” small spot size
• Disappointed at the cutting performance I created a density map to see
what was happening. Basically it was rubbish. But upon reading the small
print, the super small spot was claimed for a completely different
wavelength light.
• An explanation of how I arrived at selecting a 20ms pulse length and
comparing it with a 50ms pulse length
• A solid table means raising your work to get good airflow beneath the
material. In doing so there are two possible problems you create
• Any pieces that fall down start blocking the airflow and secondly those
pieces may fall out of line with the cut profile and land in a position to be
damaged by an adjacent cut.
• Bridges solve this issue.
• Bridges allow you to raise your work well above the zone where reflection
from the metal table damages the rear of your work.
• Although I have engraved simple outline letters on the acrylic job, I have left
the protective film on. This acts as a mask when I want to paint fill the
letters.
• We take a quick look into RDWorks to see where and how you can add
bridges to your objects.
• Removing the film and tidying up the filled letters.
• Finally a bit of housekeeping. Cleaning the condensed acrylic vapour from
the table with acetone.
• Confirmation that i am not a fan of the auto focus systems on these machines.
• I plan to show how you can use your Z stepper system to get auto focus
capability without using the vulnerable auto focus switch.
• In the USER tab set the AUTO HOME for Z ON.
• This only works if you have a top sensing micro switch.
• When you press RESET the Z table now resets to it's TOP position and sets
the keyboard display to ZERO.
• There is a risk of wiping out if you leave something on the table. You can
overcome this you must set your RETURN POSITION to absolue.
• Demonstration of the machine being confused about the work ORIGIN point
depending on running from machine memory or live from the PC.
• Choosing to use Absolute or Anchor Point positioning in RDWoks solves this
confusion.
• Demonstration of variation in focal distance as the lens orientation changes.
• To find the best focus set the speed for the application you plan to run and with
a straight line find the thinnest drawn line.
• Check the settings in Vendor Settings (RD8888) and set the HOME OFFSET to
0
• Changing the speed appears to change the focus....Hmmmm
• Setting and using a program with varying Z positions.
• Never assume that the machine vendor has calibrated the Z axis.. Check it for
yourself and set the calibration as described.
• Despite. lots of hunting, I came across zero research work on how lenses
actually cut no-metallic material.. That means I have to find the answers myself.
• Thanks to Cloudray for supplying many different lens materials, focal lengths
and lens shapes that have enabled this comparative work to take place.
• Stepping through the methodology I use for my tests
• The key setting is focus for each lens. As we have seen before, the focus must
be set for the speed of testing.
• Demonstration of my program to quickly find the correct focus.
• Running one of my standard tests.
• Analysis of the test results.
• After many hours of testing, and result logging I have collected all my results
into a PDF file.
• My goal is to find out exactly what happens to a material when the laser beam
strikes it . I already know that standard lens theory is meaningless in answering
this question.
• Quick discussion of the 3 materials I chose to test, Plywood, acrylic and MDF.
• There are many myths and "old wives tales" that need to be examined
• A look at the summary page of the cutting results for all lenses and materials.
• Using the test data summary to confirm or debunk the myths.
• My favourite cutting lens is a 2" focal length gallium arsenide used flat face
down. Using PRACTiCAL results , I show just how wrong I have been!!!!
• The big question that is evident in all the pictures remains.... WHY if a lens
causes the beam to DEFOCUS after the focal point, do we get DEEP and
PARALLEL cuts?????
• After much time and effort carrying out energy density profiling all the test
lenses, I'm not sure that they help answer the "why parallel cuts " question.
• We can clearly see from tests that we get parallel sided cuts in 10mm thick
MDF with both 1.5" and 4" focal length lenses regardless of lens shape or lens
orientation, That is contrary to all we have been taught about lenses.
• Oh dear some of my infantile attempts at drawing!! I try to explain my theory of
how it is possible to get a parallel cut.
• I use some 10mm thick extruded acrylic to try and examine my theory.
• Using a fixed power but pulse lengths from 1 to 10ms we can begin to see the
"mode burn" of a focused beam as it penetrates into the acrylic.
• Carrying on beyond 10ms produces interesting results.
• The proposal that vapour is being reheated and scourging the side walls as it
exits is tested with a sandwich of thin acrylic sheets and air gaps to vent any
trapped vapour.
• During a short holiday in Greece , I had lots of time to think about this problem.
The sun, salty air, wine and too much food seemed to supercharge my two
remaining grey cells into connecting all the data dots I had created into a crystal
clear image of what was happening.
• I cannot begin to bullet point this session because it contains so much data. You
are going to have to watch it (if you can stay awake).
• This session begins with an unfocused beam MODE BURN. The purpose is to
show an imperfection with my beam. The cental "sharp" light intensity is missing.
• This makes it difficult fro me to get crisp dots and great detail in my photo
engraving. A change of tube is required.
• Changing the tube is not a difficult task but setting the beam perfectly is difficult
with the existing head because it has no Z axis adjustment.
• I now rip the head off the machine.
• Introduction to my stainless steel fully adjustable head mounting bracket
• The new bracket has been designed to completely copy the previous non
adjustable bracket
• Re build the head bracket so that you can see the assembly procedure
• You will see how the head is now easily adjustable in Z and Y
• We have not messed with the X or Y axis so it should just be a simple matter to
move the head so that the beam lands on the mirror 3 sweet spot.
• On turning the machine on the Z axis jams as it tries to home. The culprit is soon
identified as a small piece of acrylic waste that found its way into a lead screw
thread.
• We now step through the procedure for setting Z perfectly.
• Adjust the head in Z and Y to get the beam approximately on target centre
• With the power set to 15% (approx what is used for photo engraving) it is obvious
that the power at the centre of the beam is missing.
• This centring procedure does not have to be spot on because it is going to be
readjusted at a later stage.
• The next procedure shows how to set the Z axis perpendicular to the table.
• The next procedure uses a special fixture to hold a target on the AXIS of the lens
tube. A critical setting will now take place and that is to adjust the head position in
Z and Y so that the beam reflects off mirror three right onto the centre of the target.
• When you have achieved this you can be sure that the beam is passing through
the AXIS of the lens
• So that's the beam reset
• We now look at a different pin table support system. A series of fully independent
pins.
• we now make new targets for the Z alignment fixture that will be required when we
replace the tube.
• This adjustable bracket is not something I wish to manufacture so I am giving the
design to Cloudray to manufacture and sell at Chinese prices.
• See
https://www.cloudraylaser.com/collections/k-series-laser-head-parts-1/products/cloudray-
c-series-co2-adjustable-laser-head-bracket?variant=32936879947916
• This is designed to suit the 15mm bearing rail system. Be warned , many machines
have a 12mm rail system and at this stage cannot be used with such machines.
• I cannot no longer do the same quality of photo engraving on this machine that I
can do on my old China Blue machine.
• We do mode burns on both machines to demonstrate th problem I have.
• I demonstrate that as a CUTTING tube it performs well but for engraving it lacks
detail.
• For most people it seems insane to change what looks like a perfectly good tube.
My needs and standards are well honed and tell me that this tube needs replacing.
• We look at the new Cloudray CR70 tube and discuss it SPT pedigree .
• We check that the tube will fit existing clamps and that the 60 watt power supply
will work with a 70 watt tube. Ideally I should buy an 80 watt power supply.
• We rip out the old tube and install the new tube, showing you how to make the
soldered high voltage cable joint.
• We take a look at how to clean molybdenum mirrors in extreme ways.
• Using my card targets we set the beam spot onto the centre of mirror 1
• We then go through the procedure for setting mirrors 1 and 2 to set the beam true
to the Y and X axes.
• The more observant will note that my prototype bracket design,clashed with the
belt path. Panic not. it has been fixed.
• We now step through the same Z setting procedure that we covered in video #175
• In addition we also check beam alignment through the nozzle and make minor
adjustments to mirror 3
• We check the performance characteristic of the new tube against the tube we
removed. It delivers MUCH more than promised. This is a 70 watt tube delivering
85 watts!! That is typical for SPT. They are the only company I know of that
UNDERSPECIFY their tubes.
• We then compare mode burns and see an amazing improvement
• We then do a known photo engraving test to verify that we have detail back in the
results.
• After celebrating with stollen and red wine, should I be using this very dangerous
laser machine????
• First we are going to make some Xmas decorations called Plop Plops..
• Next we start on another project for that time after dinner on Xmas day.
• We are using bridges that we learnt about in an earlier session
• We make more interesting pieces but still no clue about the final item!!
• Finally we can see that its a 4x4x4 3D tic tac toe.
• We then make a nice box to pack it away.
• Finally we overcook the turkey!!
• I have been loaned a fiber laser machine for about a year to "play with"
• Lotus Laser sounds Chinese but in reality they are very British and are only a few
miles away from where I live.
• These are not Chinese imports but UK designed and manufactured bespoke
machines.
• This machine is a rare and expensive breed of equipment called a MOPA fiber
laser.
• I know NOTHING about the technology so why do I have the luxury of borrowing
this machine
• Starting from nothing means I may learn many things about this machine that
Lotus Laser do not have time to discover for themselves
• I will not let this new venture interfere with my RDWorks series so I will call it a new
name so those with no interest can pass it by.
• I have received the prototype head bracket from Cloudray for approval before
they go into production with it
• To make sure that it all works perfectly I rip off MY original prototype and refit the
new design.
• All worked perfectly
• We then went through the Z setting procedure we have seen in previous sessions
• So now the product is available for sale at
https://www.cloudraylaser.com/collections/k-series-laser-head-parts-1/products/cloudray-
c-series-co2-adjustable-laser-head-bracket?variant=32936879947916
• The Hall Effect proximity switches that are used to set the 0,0 position when you
first turn on the machine can cause some puzzling machine effects when they fail.
• We step through the controller start procedure to see how these sensors are used
to set the machine's work area.
• How to check if your sensors are working.
• Description of how the switch procedure operates
• Demonstration of how the switch is used to set the axis zero point.
• So what goes wrong with these switches?
• It will almost certainly be an X axis switch that fails because the copper wires are
not good at flexing and this cable flexes continuously.
• We talk about how where and why the cable will flex to destruction and how
intermittent connections of the break can fool a lot of people to look elsewhere for
a problem.
• Description of where and what to buy to replace the switch
• A little trick that allows you to use your machine whilst awaiting a replacement
switch
181 Redsail Clone Upgraded Head
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ziyqXxGJX_o
• Having designed and fitted a lightweight head to the Lightblade machine it seemed
a "no brainer" to find a way to make it fit the China blue machine also
• We look at the problems. Big Y axis alignment issue and also, despite the rigid
mounting opportunity straight onto the X axis bearing, there will only be Z
adjustment on the head.
• This forces me to review the design of the #2 mirror mount and design something
different that has precision Y adjustment to compensate for loss of Y adjustment
on the head itself,
• I manufacture and fit an acrylic no2 mirror mount
• I eventually get the new head fitted and the beam aligned in the Z axis ready to
use.
• With existing parameters at 500mm/s and an acceleration of 3,000mm/s/s there is
huge over travel of 37mm
• Changing the acceleration to 30,000mm/s/s reduces the overrun to 5mm!!
• Run a test pattern to check for loss of steps.....none.
• Just a quick session to inform that Cloudray will not be making this new
lightweight head people because with no news back from China, the demand for it
is increasing. I am therefore forced to make and sell a small batch myself. (not a
responsibility I wished to take on........BUT)
• We look at all the parts of the kit that will be supplied and sum up how they fit.
• A common problem that many encounter is they can accurately align their ,X and
Y and X axes so that the scorch marks are perfect at left back, left front and right
front . However when the move the head to the right rear the scorch mark is
SIGNIFICANTLY in error. WHY?
• Many silly explanations have been suggested as to the cause of the problem.
They are all fantasy and hope.
• First lets look at the main laser tube. Despite knowing lots of external dimensional
data I have never been able to perfectly know where the axis of the laser beam is.
• My latest and greatest red dot pointer was yet another "nearly ok" device that was
not a good enough replication of the beam path to dynamically set the mirrors .
However it has other uses.
• One use is to discount the idea that the level of the machine is the cause. .I
manhandle the machine and violently lift a corner to prove it had ZERO effect
• The real problem is at mirror 2. The flimsy mirror #2 mounting bracket distorts
between the fron and reat positions causing the beam to reflect at different angles.
• We create a scorch mark at mirror 3 in the front right position and set the red dot
pointer onto that scorch mark. . The red LED beam seems to indicate that mirror 2
is distorting between the back and front position because it is obviously moving.
• However When we check with scorch marks there is no difference ie the red beam
is not truthful......in fact misleading.
• I then discuss a common question that has arisen several times. "Can I set the
beam from the nozzle backwards?" My belief is "No" and I explain why
• After the pervious examination of how you cannot make a trustworthy red dot
pointer I use diagrams to explain how the slightest amount of axial misalignment
robs the red beam if its usefulness for beam alignment.
• Any beam combining system suffers the same problem and must be considered
unreliable.
• There is an SPT tube that has a patented integrated red beam combiner that is
factory set to the beam.
• Discussion about "though the lens" red dot pointers.
• I have dreamed up my own version of a through the lens pointing system. using
steerable red LEDS
• Once designed I then go through the principle of the system I have designed and
it looks like I have designed something that is certain to fail.
• I go ahead and make it anyway
• I totally fail to align it and had to admit that it was the successful failure that I
predicted.. It demonstrated clearly that being off axis to the laser beam is always
going to end this way.
• The 4" lens was something I mounted at the top of my lens tube in conjunction with
other low mounted lenses when I looking for ways to create the smallest dot.
• I am revisiting this 4" compound idea again ater being stimulated by by some
experiments done by another correspondent, where he was trying to increase the
focal range of lenses ie less sensitive to going out of focus by the same 4"
compound lens approach..
• Knowing more now about some of the rarely mentioned idiosyncrasies of lenses it
made me consider the exact opposite reason to play with long distance compound
lenses.. Does CONVERGING the beam through a 4 " lens onto a 2" or 2.5" focal
length lens improve its cutting capability?
• Cloudray have sent me several different types of 4" lens and two 7,5" focal length
lenses YES 7.5""!!!!
• This is just a quick pathfinder experiment to see if there is any value in pursuing
this direction.
• I set up a comp[ond lens configuration and use my focus program to determine the
best focus .
• I run a tests on 10mm p[ywood. 10mm acrylic and 9.5mm MDF to compare with
previous test data
• There was a 29% improvement with plywood , no improvement with acrylic and
37% improvement on MDF
• What was the magic lens combination? A 7.5" lens at the top of the tube and a 2.5"
lens at the bottom..
• The net effectof the combination was to SHORTEN the 2.5" focal length to 44mm
from the nominal 63.5mm.
• Was this just a lucky guess or are there better results to be had with other
combinations.?
• As part of the Russ Spec machine we are building a unique one piece tube mount
that integrates a #1 mirror .
• The unit is a very simple laser cut 1.5mm stainless parts that wel together and then
assemble into a FIXED position tube holder
• A quick discussion of the design phiosophy
• I remove the one piece acrylic tube holder from the machine and fit the new holder
• We start to reset the beam and demonstrate why this tube mount is used as a
simple setting aid for beam alignment.
• Having gone through beam setting yet again I then look at other featiures I want to
see included on the machine
• Ultimate air assist
• Motorized table adjustment
• A tip on how to create your own motorized table for free if you have a manually
adjusted table.
• I also have a DELAY OFF timer that switches off the extract fan a few seconds
after the end of a program.
• I now unveil the MK2 lightweight head that I will be sending to Cloudray that
utilizes the standard 25mm diameter mirror . There are a few changes that I
discuss.
• I show how the Mk2 head is manufactured and assembled
• Everything I am designing is attempting to suit 12 or 15mm bearing machines.
• I show hoe simple Z axis adjustment can be.
• I then show an alternative (and preferred) mounting for the front mounted beariing
system.
• I try to run fast with high acceleration and fail but I balance speed and acceleration
and speed to get optimum performance.
• I need to write a full specification for my dream machine.
• I show how you can asses the performance of your HV power supply
• I have had second thoughts about how I could make the "airflow management"
safe.
• I design and fit a simple steel air inlet duct that allows ducted air in whilst the lid is
closed.
• One final wish is to have a side access panel.
192 New parts now available and detailed explanation of beam setting.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6aNwKhTRnd8
• I have designed many parts for my two 300x500mm machines. Over time my
designs have evolved and there is a complex set of part combination that could be
used.
• I try to unravel that evolutionary story by combining it with a detailed description of
beam setting because simplifying that procedure has been one of the main drivers
for some of the designs
• A second driver has been to make the machine run faster. However, as I have
demonstrated in earlier sessions. short engraving cycle times rely more on rapid
acceleration than linear speed in many circumstances.
• I step through the alignment procedure explaining the need to separate beam
alignment from the position of the beam on the mirror/ Both are important but you
cannot combine them into one setting goal ... they must be set separately..
• After discussing all the various parts I have designed , particularly those that I will
be sending to China for the Russ Spec machine, I demonstrate how vital Z beam
alignment is
• I show how off angle cuts result from poor Z axis alignment with a practical
demonstration. .
• I go throrgh the design philosophy and reasons for developing the "flexible rack
and pinion" belt drive system
• I finally declare that as I was making parts for my two machines and for Cloudray, I
had made a few extras for those that were interested.
• I created an explanatory document with prices in and was also supplying a data
pack which included all the dxf files for the parts in case peoples wishe to modify or
make their own parts.
• I had second thoughts about the offset beam issue (puzzle) that was discussed at
the end of the previous video
• I have arranged a crude light bench to demonstrate exactly what is going on when
you offset a laser beam
• The answer is simple when you see it demonstrated like this.
• It clearly explains why the offset beam causes off angle cut edges. on thick
material.
• .
• Its coming up to Chrismas at the end of a depressing Covid year but I am happy to
be looking at one of my favourite sujects .....FOCUS
• I keep coming back to lenses because how they work in laser it is a very
mysterious subject surrounded by "facts" and myths
• Perfect focus is for visible light cameras and telescope technology. Focusing to a
point will be great fro engraving .... but for cutting?
• I have spent lots of sessions in my video series I'm trying to understand how
lenses actually work. I know that there are hundreds of years of lens theory
development but I can find no data or research on how lenses achieve the cutting
function whenn teamed up with a laser beam.
• A 2.5" ZnSe lens is used to carry out my auto focus finding test. at both cutting and
engraving speeds
• This demonstrates that the "focal point" appears to be changing with speed.
• Now for one of my illogical and stupid tests. at 12mm below the focal point.
• We get exactly what is predicted by lens theory ..... a very thick out of focus line
• However, increase the speed and all of a sudden we see that this thick line now
becomes a thin line.
• This seems to indicate that despite being grossly out if focus, there is still a focused
beam of energy present 12mm below the supposed focus point.
• This is the start of my Russ theory of how lenses cut .
• I present diagrams to illustrate how my "rogue" beam right through the central
axis of the lens can cause damage way below the nominal focal point.
• The higher speed filters out the lower power part of the beam (insufficient exposure
time to damage the material) but leaves behind an intense central spike of power
that does have sufficient exposure time to leave its mark.
• I think I prove there is no single focal point when we use a lens with a Gaussian
intensity laser beam.
• I start to dream about the possibility of a long focus compound lens and explain
how I might go about improving cutting performance by reducing the beam
diameter onto the final lens with a pre-focusing optic.
• I am not a lover of the much used honeycomb table . I have seen too many
machine fires caused whilst cutting acrylic.
• Here is a view from inside my machine to watch what happens UNDERNEATH the
honeycomb while I cut some acrylic.
• Do not be over alarmed and paranoid about using honeycomb. This is a sober
reminder why you should NEVER walk away from your machine whist cutting
acrylic.
• I am a very sceptical and inquisitive person who yearns to understand exactly how
things work. At present I do not believe the well tried and tested lens theory
explains how our laser lenses cut.
• As prelude to trying to design/discover and suitable lens combination for a long
focus compound lens I need to sum up the bits of science required.
• I go through various problems with lens theory that do not accord with physical
observations.
• I explain the basic physics of light and the principle of refraction which is the
mechanism by which lenses work.
• A reminder of how light waves stimulate molecules to a self-destruct temperature
and it is the INTENSITY of that light which is responsible for the RATE of material
damage
• Thus if we can make a Gaussian intensity beam smaller in diameter, we can
increase its INTENSITY. More intensity= faster damage potential.
• Diagrams to show that the projecting focal point/s I am proposing, increase with
the lens focal length.
• The reason being to do with the geometry of the lens. Longer focal length lenses
are "flatter"
• This is the reasoning behind adding a upper optic to the lens tube to pre-focus the
beam to a smaller footprint as it hits the second lens.
•
• I move to the workshop to try testing some of the combinations that looked
promising during my bench testing of lenses in the last session.
• I test the real focal point of the 7.5" lens and estimate it to be closer to 9" and it
has a "spot size of about 1.4mm.
• I flip the lens to flat side up and it looks to produce a smaller spot closer to 1mm.
but still at 9".
• I test the 7.5" lens on real wood and it performs badly.
• Back to the lens test fixture and I find that the focus happens to be about 7.5" as
expected. Remember back a couple of sessions when I explained about the visible
light focal length being shorter than the 10.6 micro focal point? Well that is what
has happened here
• Does this invalidate all the bench tests?
• Looking back at my previous test data, we have a cutting speed target of 14mm/s
to beat before we can say were are finding a useful combination
• I receive a delivery of nozzles and lenses from Cloudray just in time to begin
testing.
• I abandon my bench test data !!
• I establish a method for testing combinations. First find the focus and then test the
cutting speed.
• Lots of random lens swaps tested to gain steadt progress.
• I have done quite a bit of testing off camera because it's only the results that are of
interest.
• One interesting combination happened to NOT be a long compound lens but a
possible alterative for the SHORT compound lens.
• I demonstrate it on my "foxy" picture.
• As I carry on testing in the background my examination of previous test work set a
minimum goal of 14mm/s . Success means improving that speed.
• Lots of testing with various lens combinations has thrown up an interesting point. I
seem to be hitting a speed limit of 16mm/s.
• I did eventually get to 17mm/s but with many combinations (strange?)
• Back to my previous test data to verify that I can repeat the best 14mm/s result
with a 2.5"GaAs lens.......... because between this testing and the previous test
data I have changed my tube. There is little difference in the power but I need to
verify that the previous data still has credibility.
• Testing that 2.5GaAs lens seems to verify consistency. BUT on inspecting the
lens I find that the anti-reflective coating looks to be damaged.
• This can only be excess energy density being fired at the lens by relatively short
(probably 4")lenses.
• I find similar damage to a 7.5" l-ns that was used as a lower lens,. Bad news. This
means I am really limited to just using a 7.5" lens as my pre-focus lens
• After lots more background testing I pull the results together for review agist my
previous test data and I appear to have made some significant improvements.
• Improvements? The amount of gain depends on how you interpret the data.
• HOWEVER. I had to stop and run all my old tests again because it appears that
my new tube is better than the old one and gives better "normal" cutting results.
• I then compare compound results with matching single lens data to see if a 7.5"
pre-focusing lens is improving the performance.
• For certain lenses and focal lengths there are improvements but the goal is to
achieve a combination that gives the fastest cutting performance.
• When I examine all the data for compound lenses a very strange pattern
emerges. Regardless of the secondary lens (type,FL or material) there is
remarkable number of results for 17 and 18mm/s. This should not be possible.
• Are there any single lenses that can produce17 or 18mm/s so that we do not need
to use a compound combinati0on. The answer was yes.
• This constant cutting speed puzzle caused me to search fro reasons why such an
oddity was possible. . It forced me to look at the mode burn differences between
my old and new tubes.
• They were almost the same power but the mode burns were significantly different
and began to hint at the importance of light INTENSITY (not power) for efficient
cutting.
• After everything I have discovered about lens combinations, I have to admit that
I am hunting for something that cannot exist.
• A failure? Maybe , but every failure has its own teaching. I need to concentrate on
understanding he mechanism by which lenses cut. If I can succeed in that, I may
be able to decode the puzzles I have seen during these sessions.
• Any first time buyer of a laser machine EXPECTS it to cut and without any
scientific know how or prior experience they fiddle with a few speed and power
parameters, throw a piece of material onto the table , press the start button and a
miracle happens.
• That cutting action is like no other. I demonstrate some mechanical cutting to
demonstrate what it is NOT
• I know of many people that are happy to stay an ignorant expert laser user.
However understanding the very basic science behind damaging material with
your laser (cutting or engraving) is one of the first building blocks that helps you to
understand how this whole laser technology works.
• The laser beam is NOT that pink glow you see within the tube. If it was then it
would be pink at the front of the machine as well. No , without going into the
physics, that pink beam is the "engine" that creates the INVISIBLE l beam of laser
light that we use for cutting and engraving.
• This beam exits the tube and bounces around the machine off mirrors to eventually
arrive at a lens that concentrates (amplifies) the light INTENSITY. and reduces the
beam to a very small focus point.
• Now to the science of light (the electromagnetic spectrum), the basic building
blocks of ALL materials (atoms and molecules.). the molecular vibration definition
of temperature and the coherent nature of a laser beam and how it just happens
to be at a wavelength that excites a huge range of molecules.
• When the beam of light hits a solid or liquid it encounters SURFACE molecules.
The light can only stimulate what it hits. IT does not penetrate into the surface. It
stimulates just the surface molecules to heat up and self-destruct ( chemically
convert to other molecules) whereupon new exposed SURFACE molecules can
be stimulated.
• This light damage is a layer by layer erosion process and not something instant. It
may appear instant because the more intense the light the faster the erosion will
happen.
• Chemical material damage is one form of erosion but there is another
non-chemical erosion . You will be familiar with the solid(ice) liquid(water)and
vapour (steam) states of H2O. These change of state require more and more heat
( molecular stimulation) to happen. Acrylic changes state in exactly the same way.
at room temperature it is solid. At 160c it becomes liquid and at 200C it becomes
acrylic vapour......no chemistry involved. However heat the vapout and it will
change its chemistry and catch fire.
• A demonstration of the non-uniform light intensity within the laser beam and
description of the concept of EXPOSURE time
• Six flash cards that sum up how a laser beam damages material.
• A demonstration of how the supposed diverging laser beam below the focal point
seems to defy the laws of physics Why no expanding cut?
• At this point I describe how and why I imagine the beam is cutting below the focal
point.
• A demonstartion of a high intensity core to the beam when it is defocused yet
lens theory says there should be no power there.
• This is an unplanned session interrupting my research into how lenses cut. I have
had run of questions about expensive safety glasses.
• Safety glasses salesmen play on your fear of the word LASER and how isuch
dangerous equipment will easily make you blind.
• I cannot give you any advice as to how to best spend your money. Instead I plan to
show and demonstrate all the dangers of this machine and asses the risk factor of
each. At the end I hope you will be able to make a sensible risk-assessed decision
for yourself.
• A brief description of the INVISIBLE laser beam and how it bounces around the
machine off 3 mirrors and is finally amplified through a special lens.
• Lasers are classified in 4 groups. 1 being safe and 4 being very dangerous. I
demonstrate what a class 4 laser can do
• Some science follows. the laser beam is a beam of invisible LIGHT it is NOT a
beam of HEAT.
• You all know what sound waves are and look like, well, light is exactly the same
sort of wave energy but instead of what we hear being at about 15thousand cyles
per second, the frequency of our invisible laser light is about 28 thousand billiion
cycles per second (unimaginable.!!!)
• I try to make these numbers into something tangible with a simple table, jelly and
cake analogy. This helps to explain the concept of how waves of energy can
shake different materials in different ways depending on the internal structure of
the material.
• The next bit of science they don't teach at school is the fact that all atoms and
molecules are vibrating and the rate of vibration defines the molecules
temperature. Make a molecule vibrate faster and it gets hotter.
• It just so happens that the 28 teraHz frequency of our laser light is just about the
right frequency to excite most material molecules, causing them to vibrate faster
and thus get hotter.
• The lens makes the laser beam hundreds of times more intense. Thus at the focal
point that intense light causes damage almost instantly
• I use water to demonstrate how concentrated light energy can create steam as it
stimulates water molecules to get hot. Water looks transparent to our eyes but to
the laser beam it is totally opaque. It is therefore only the SIURFACE molecules
that are being stimulated and instantly tun to stem. There is liitle or no heating of
the water mass itself.
• You also think of glass and the plastic lens of my glasses as being transparent . To
us yes but they are solid opaque materials to our laser beam.
• Co2 laser light has a relatively long wavelength of 10.6 microns The light only
sees 3 things in its universe 1)metals. All of which reflect the light(used for
mirrors)..2) A very small group of salt-like materials that are transparent to the light
(we use these for lenses) and 3) EVERYTHING ELSE.. whose molecules will be
excited (heated) when the 10.6 micron wavelength light hits it.
• The beam that travels around the machine is not dangerous unless you put your
self directly in its path. If a bullet misses you by half a millimetre it's not dangerous.
It only damages you if it hits you. There are no sideways rays that "leak" from that
invisible beam NOTHING will jump out and bite you.
• The only stupid thing to do is place metal in the path of the beam because the be
could be reflected at YOU
• I demonstrate that glass and polycarbonate spectacle lenses 100% absorb the
laser light because they are group 3 materials. Thus simple industrial safety
glasses costing $2 will afford your eyes 100% protection against being hit by a
laser beam.
• I then demonstrate cutting/engraving organic materials (wood ,MDF, leather etc).
The very bright intense light you see is a much greater danger to your eyes. It is
just like looking at a mini arc welder. It contains high levels of UV light which can
damage human cells (including eyes) and also its intensity is a bit like looking at
the sun
• I speak of the relative risks for each of the subject discussed
• Don't fear this laser technology. Understand it and respect it.
• My recent failure to find a long focus lens to improve cutting efficiency led me to
look differently at how I could characterize lenses.
• The method I devised revealed some great patterns when displayed in a graphical
form
• I go back and review all the basic lens theory that I had been indoctrinated with. I
point out some major problems with that theory that I discovered when I tested
the cutting performance of a variety of lenses
• I look at the properties of a Gaussian distribution and how it is used to describe
the light intensity within a laser beam and how power and intensity are separately
described by the same graph.
• Amplifying the beam through a lens does not increase the POWER it only
increases the INTENSITY of the light.
• Analysing how the beam intensifies according to spot size theory, again produced
this crazy result that was opposite to my observations.
• There was another problem that didn't make sense. Just how was it possible to cut
the correct size holes through thick material . You set the focal point onto the
material surface but what happens below that focal point is beam
DIVERGRENCE and LOSS of energy density. This is well described by
conventional lens theory. So how is what we actually witness possible?
• I quickly go through a huge documented data set from my previous cutting tests to
illustrate that whatever the focal length, cutting through 10mm material produced
PARALLEL sided cuts.
• I show more of my puzzling tests with straight "worm holes" in acrylic below the
focal point
• Are those holes the result of "total internal reflection" of laser light? No.
• I try to "see" the shape of the damage patterns below the focal point by making
test burns in clear acrylic for different lenses
• I then compare the graphical data that characterizes various lens focal lengths
and it all of a sudden begins to show a pattern that I first suspected 2 years ago.
The cutting depth INCREASES with the focal length for a CONSTANT power input
• This explodes several myths and "facts". You do not need high power to use a 4"
lens. You cut with INTENSITY and not POWER so the spot size/power density
idea is incorrect.
• I then summerize a revised list of truths that form the basis of my theory.
• I present diagrams of lenses and discus the various ray patterns and how
refraction affects the path of the rays.
• I then concentrate my attention to what happens to rays JUST a fraction away
from the lens axis. It seems that the geometry of the spherical surface is so close to
being NORMAL to the ray path that only the merest amount of refraction will occur.
That means that the focal point of these near-axial rays will focus way beyond the
nominal focal point of the lens.
• This PROJECTING focal point/s provides a carrying (and focussing) path for that
central Gaussian intensity.
• The double refraction path of a plano-convex lens when used flat down produces
a narrower range of focus scatter. Used flat side up that focus scatter is much
greater because there is only one refraction occurring.
• This points to the fact that a plano convex lens will produce more efficient cutting if
used flat side up....... this is against all conventional wisdom. However, examining
my lens cutting data confirms that flat side up produces deeper cutting for ALL
focal lengths.
• HOWEVER. .......All these results and conclusions are caviated by one special
condition. If your raw laser beam is non-Gaussian then you will not be able to
achieve efficient cutting.
• Some people did not fully comprehend my theory of how lenses cut so I recap
with a revised diagram
• I re-run the test of cutting through 26mm hardwood with a 2.5" GaAS lens at
3mm/s
• I then change the setup by removing the hardwood but leaving everything else
set the same but this time burning a track on a piece of so that its surface mimics
the BOTTOM surface of the hard wood We are trying to see what the beam is like
at that point
• By changing the speed we can filter out the lower power from the outer part of the
thick beam
• I then demonstrate that a 4" lens will cut through the 26mm hardwood but at
2mm/s ie 33% less speed....but why.
• I examine the reflections off the curved surfaces of various lenses to assess the
degree of curvature. The flatter the lens surface the greater the "projected" focus
(according to my theory) and it illustrates why the 2.5"GaAS cutts better than the 4"
ZnSe.
• I take a less than perfect lens and test it with my penetration test. I then begin
brutally modify it in stages. I test at each stage to asses the performance change.
I eventually drill right through the axis and destroy the cutting ability
• I finally test this non-cutting lens to see if it will still focus and engrave.
• Important safety warning about working with zinc selenide.
• You have only one machine and 1 tube's worth of experience. Most of you will not
have power tested your tube or even be aware that most of the Chinese laser tube
market is dishonest.
• What is a laser beam supposed to look like and how to test what you have.
• I can guarantee that your Ebay or Amazon Marketplace will be fitted with a B
grade or almost junk tube. Many of those tubes will be labelled K H Laser and that
will be an absolute guarantee of a factory reject that has been relabelle
• The premier grade Reci tube named in an advert is not always what it seems and
because of their high cost I spend some time pointing out that the market is flooded
with B grade Reci tubes and how you can recognize them.
• Can I cut twice as fast if I double the power of my tube? No. and I explain why the
beam DIAMTER is an important factor.
• How is beam diameter defined? here is a brief explanation
• And why beam diameter is an important element in determining INTENSITY
• We look at two mode burns from the same tube just a few moments apart . Why
are they so different.
• What is BEAM DIVERGENCE? It is a little discussed feature of all laser beams. It
is typically is about 3mm/m beam growth for all glass tubes. That means the beam
is one diameter at the back corner of the machine and a much bigger diameter at
the diagonally opposite front corner.
• Remember, the power remains the same but the beam diameter grows thus
meaning that the INTENSITY drops and cutting ability is seriously affected.
• This session has been about the raw beam before it passes through the lens. If the
intensity is low to start with , amplifying it through a lens will improve it .....but not
very much. As the saying goes "rubbish in= rubbish out"
• Lenses and laser beams are not behaving in the manner that lens theory predicts.
• I have been brutal with lenses in previous sessions in an attempt to decode what
happens to various parts of the beam as it passes through the lens.
• In this session I use the "holey" lens in my compound lens set-up to examine its
effect on the focal point
• A brief aside about using default parameters to make my focus program instantly
reprogrammable
• I determine for the focal distance and run a penetration profile test before
changing to the "modified" lens. I also run the dot test to set more reference data.
• I substitue modified lenses into the compound configuration and run fous and
profile tests
• A graph of the results shows the effects on cutting and focal distance and focal
depth.
• Examination of the dot test results and an explanation of how it is very difficult to
get dots with a laser machine.
• Comparing normal compound lens dots with the modified lens configuration dots
• The results for the modified lenses look promising enough to try a proper photo
engraving test
• The results are about 90% compared to normal lenses but the condition of the
38mm focal distance lens is abysmal and it is unbelievable that the results are as
good as they are.
• I carry out a profile cutting test (with a difference) with another modified lens that
supposedly has its engraving ability decreased but leaves cutting unaffected. The
pulse length is constant and the test starts off at the correct 38.1mm focal distance.
• The results are very puzzling because there are a series of tests where each
penetration is 2mm lower than the previous, Maximum depth penetration occurs
when the material is 10mm and 12mm lower than the 38.1mm specified focal point
• I then carry out a 2D version of the test on a piece of card ti samplw the points of
surface penetration.
• There then follows a lengthy analysis of the results and a microscopic examination
of the penetration damage for each test hole.
• There is proof here of a focal point existing at 10mm lower than the manufacturers
specification.
• The existence of this focal point is now irrefutable and my observations have been
validated, but how and why is this possible? I see more experiments ahead.
• Previous experiments have shown the TWO distinct characterises of a lens that
with lens brutalisation can be separated from each other .
• I ask the very simple question "What and where is a lens's focal point?"
• I look at diagrams of lenses and demonstrate that there is no single focal point
• The thickness of a burn line will vary because of speed and exposure time
because of the spread of focal points within a single lens.
• I want to understand why my favourite cutting lens ( a GaASs 63.5mmFL) is
different to others.
• Using a real burn dot as an example I discuss theoretical and manufactures
claimed "spot size"
• A look at my model of a Gaussian profile and how it can either be viewd as a map
of material damage against time OR as a map of intensity change within the beam
as the tube % power changes.
• I set the Laser and Manual set features on the keypad for a test.
• Using thin card with a constant damage threshold I run various exposure time
and power tests to examine the damage above and below the manufacturers focal
point.
• I then discuss the results to demonstrate that the manufacturers focal point is
nonsensical as is the manufacturer's claimed spot size.
• I then examine the damage regions and relate them to the beam intensity profile
as the %power is changed.
• Finally I run tests on lenses flat side up and flat side down to demonstrate the that
INTENSITY (or power) focus is NOT a fixed point and is different to the lens's
specified focal distance.
• After decoding how the ceramic marking process worked I bought a few tiles and
proceeded to try and understand the practical side of the process.
• Various failed attempts to apply an even film of TiO2 caused me to buy an airbrush
• Mixing and applying was not a simple task as airbrush application was a new skill
with a far from suitable material.
• Eventually I coated some tiles successfully.
• Next problem was preparing an image. Most people with ANY sort of laser believe
they must somehow prepare their image for " burning". One of the free on-line
processing tools is called ImagR.
• I personally hate these "laser preparation" software packages because they are
not photo replication aid but more cartoon generators. I explain how they strip out
all the mid greys, sharpen the edges and increase the brightness before they
dither the image. In normal wood, card or leather engraving this reduces pixel
overburning.
• I explain how IF you can make your machine produce clean individual pixels
(using my dot test pattern) then there should be no need for any perpetration
• I explain the problem of producing SINGLE dots with an RF or a diode machine
which are PWM controlled.
• I use one of my test pictures (a 254ppi fox ) to test the process.
• After a an initial test strip I had to abort and reset the parameters
• The final result was one of the best images I had ever produced. It required only a
quick warm water rinse off to remove the excess TiO2.
• I examine the details of the dots under the microscope and felt that it would be
possible to push the resolution to 508ppi
• A subsequent unpublished video demonstrates the result I achieved at 508pp
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVgmoN1wljs
213 How Lenses Cut More experiments
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GTrURliuHrI
• In the last lens session we proved that there were more than one single
manufacturers focal point with a puzzling test. In this session we will repeart and
expand on that "lowering the table " test.
• For those people that jump in and out of random sessions I go over some old
subjects about how light and materials interact.
• I also recap details aboiut different lens types and how.
• I set up a 4" lens and test it's focus
• I then run the "drop" test with 1mm drop between burns
• There is then a rather drawn out but interesting video step-though to watch how the
burn tubes grow and develop.
• I then swap to a 38.1mm focal length lens and repeat the test. I set the
manufacturers focus at the material surface but. the evidence that we see, shows
the INTENSITY focal point being 5mm into the material. as we do mpore
step-through and analysis.
• There was a moment where I was doubting my idea of a secondary focal point
below the manufacturers focal point. This evidence tells me my original
observation was correct
• If you have a stepper driven Z axis and you use the programmable feature I have
often found that I need a Z=0 position that is not at the top of the Z axis
• I then go on to express the negative issues with the auto focus system that was
originally installed.
• I have been promising to create my own simple Z=0 system for this machine. and
today is the day.
• I then spend time explaining all the possible ways to set Z=0 at the top home
position and also a quick fiddle to set the table at a lower position by using a
spacer block
• I finally add a simple push button switch that is wired in parallel with the top table
limit switch
• Drive the table low and press reset and provided you have set Z to auto home,
when the table rises to about the correct height, just press the Z=0 button twice
and at the second push your Z=0 will be set.
• It has always puzzled me as to why the focal distance of a lens changes withy
speed, Lenses are designed with a FIXED focal point so how can it possibly
change?
• This session is all about showing that there are THREE factors that can alter a
lens's focal distance, Speed, power and unbelievably , material.
• I run focus tests on HDF to show change of focal distance with speed and power
• The definition of a focal point is that point through which all the light rays pass.
Hence we choose the thinnest line in any focus test as an indicator of that unique
focal distance.
• This idea cannot be true if the thinnest line at 10% power is much thinner than the
line at 95% power.
• I do a batch of testing and then I examine some of the results under my
microscope
• Looking at an EXTRUDED acrylic test piece we see that the power and
out-of-focus have a tremendous range of effects on the material. In some slow
speed tests we can see the footprints of stepper motor intermittent motion.
• We then compare those results with the same test in CAST acrylic.
• A look at slate under the microscope reveals that those grey lines we see on slate
are not stone chips or scratches but a crude form of glass cased by melting of
sandy/sedimentary/silica material at over 1700C. Fascinating.
• Glass is also a silica material but reacts differently. When the power is intense, at
and around the thinnest line, melting and bubbling are obvious but as the beam
goes out of focus and the beam gets "blunter" melting ceases and sharding (stone
chipping) happens in conjunction with some melting.
• A quick look at Baltic birch
• The purpose of this quick look at how various materials damage is to show that
laser LIGHT affects each material in a different way and that a large part of
understanding our laser technology is understanding about materials.
• I then step through the results of my many tests that clearly illustrate that the focal
distance changes with speed, material and power.
• OK so we have proved that the focal point and spot size are figments of the
manufacturer's imagination but we have not established WHY the focal point is
jumping around. That will be investigated in the next session.
• My journey learning about this Chinese laser technology has consumed 6 years
of my life. Its been a slow steady set of zig zag learning experiences based on a lot
of experimentation and discovery, There has been a lot of background research
into unreadable scientific treaties to try and understand some of the deep physics
principles. I have eventually been able to extract the essence and convert then into
visual models that I (and others) can understand
• To watch this series as a "box set" would be like watching grass grow ........great
for sending you to sleep.
• I have always promised myself to go back and rework the knowledge I have
acquired into a logical and more concise format for newcomers to the technology.
• There are many simple scientific principles underpinning this technology that I
wish I had known from day 1. So I began work on the series as a background
project.
• I had no time scale or any idea of how I was going to "dorp" it on the world.
• I step back in time to my great relationship with Thinklaser and the Lightblade
machine that I use daily.. By a very strange coincidence one of my close contacts
from Thinklaser had moved on and approached me enquiring If I ever completed
the " Lasers A to Z" project that he was aware of.
• He was in the process of developing a website aimed at be a central hub or
repository for all sorts of laser information and videos..... a one-stop laser
reference library.. We agreed that this would be a great vehicle for distributing my
new series along with all my old videos , Lightburn tutorials and many other laser
related videos
• See laseruser.com
• Discovering how and why lenses really work in conjunction with a laser beam to
damage material in our CO2 laser machines has consumed about 3 years of my
life. I hope to sum up that story in less than an hour
• My scepticism about lens theory and lasers began when I performed comparative
cutting tests with a few different types of 38.1mm lenses. Why 38.1? Lens theory
with its spot size and energy density predictions indicated the very high values for
this focal length would produce the best cutting. To my surprise the one 2" lens in
my collection was about 3 times better. This serious disconnect between theory
and reality piqued my curiosity.
• AS I investigated and blindly experimented with more and more lenses I was able
to demonstrate even more theory and fact anomalies. I am not an optical engineer
so I have never been restricted by the conventions of that profession. Ignorance,
scepticism and curiosity are my main problem solving skills.
• Acrylic has been my constant "friend" throughout this journey of discovery. Its
properties are unique and the way it responds to CO2 laser light has allowed me to
reverse engineer what must be happening to the beam before and after it passes
through a lens.
• The light INTENSITY within a laser beam is not uniform. It is much more intense at
the centre. We do not damage material with watts of power, no, we damage
material with light INTENSITY. The greater the intensity the faser you can damage
material
• I demonstrate both these facts by firing the raw beam into acrylic for different
exposure times. Both the beam shape and variable penetration are obvious.
However the key observation is the sharp pointed material damage that is caused
by the light intensity profile and NOT any sort of focus.
• I then take a VERY long focal length lens and intercept the beam at various points
along its path towards a focal point. I record the record the time for the beam to
penetrate through a 50mm deep block of acrylic. The results show that as I move
down the beam. the entry "footprint" of the beam decreases and the time for
penetration decreases
• I then repeat the physics of how light and material interact and how light energy is
transformed into heat as it stimulates molecular vibration
• I examine the Gaussian intensity graph and explain how power, beam diameter
and light intensity are related.
• I then examine lens types and discuss the ABERRATION that is a natural
consequence of using spherical surfaces on a lens.
• That aberration is the enemy when using a lens to transmit an IMAGE but a filtering
friend when we use it to amplify INTENSITY.
• I try to explain that filtering effect and how various INTENSITIES within the beam
aggregate. There is no fixed INTENSITY focus because it depends on the beam
speed and power as to what part of the intensity aggregate exceeds the damage
threshold of the material . This is the reason why there is no fixed INTENSITY
focal point and why it is different from the IMAGE focal point.
• I then list lenses in my collection and demonstrate some tests that I will carry out
for each one.. This demonstrates beyond doubt the existence and variability of this
INTENSITY focus
• I refer to a set of test results done recently to prove that the INTESITY focus
changes with power, with speed and more surprisingly with material.
• PROBLEM. If the intensity focus is so variable how am I ever going to set the
optimum focus for a specific set of conditions? My line method and the ramp
method are both generally useful but ther are some cautions to be observed.
• Even more confusing now is that there are TWO optimum INTENSITY focal points
. One achieves the thinnest line and one achieves the deepest cut.
• I then demonstrate my focus test in a way that allows me (and you) to see the
penetration variations into acrylic. It clearl yshows the difference between , the
max penetration focus, the thinnest line focus and the manufacturers focus are all
different.
• I then use my intensity diagram to explain how a laser bean REALLY cuts
• I then demonstrate the way I assess the cutting performance of a lens. I have
tested all my lenses and produces a HUGE pdf document of all the results. I
discuss just a few of the summaries
• Even if YOU don' t understand all those weird interaction between lenses and
laser beams. I do. Its all a lovely crystal clear model in my brain. So that's my work
on lenses done and I can now close Pandora's box
• At last the prototype copy of my China blue machine arrived for my critique.
• I quickly walk around the machine and am very happy at the way my specification
has been translated .
• There are some really nice additions like a beam combiner,(although not my
favourite extra) and a proper stepper controlled Z axis.
• There are lots of wows and ticks for the neat professional engineering.
• There are also some minor criticisms as I get into the detail.
• The beam combiner, in particular, is not really functional and is as bad as all
others I have encountered.
• I quickly set about fitting the parts onto my simple wooden trolley.
• I modify the extract fan to remove the inlet guard
• I modify the CW3000 so that I can see the water level in the tank
• I fit the main components onto my trolley and test the extract system.
• I point out that several key items (extract duct, various pipes and special door key)
were missing from the shipment.
• I give details of the cheap trolley construction
• I power up the machine (oops ....big red button embarrassment)
• There were some software compatibility issues with RDWorks and the RDC6432
controller
• I struggled to make the Z axis work properly and eventually gave up and swapped
the controller for a RDC6445 (an upgraded version of the RDC6442)
• After a few hiccups with Chinese language display and an incorrectly wired Z axis
limit switch I get the Z axis working properly. The table and the leadscrews are
super bits of engineering
• Despite a few minor issues, this prototype far exceeded my expectations and the
sort of comments seen in this video will be dealt with by the time production begins.