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Apparel Today
Apparel Today
March 2023
A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 16, Issue 03 l Pages 69 to 86
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SAF Event Review
Figure: The fourth Sustainable Apparel Forum (SAF) highlights the transformation from a linear to a circular model in the apparel
sector – including circularity, climate action, renewable energy, and human rights due diligence.
The fourth Sustainable Apparel industry, Bangladesh is far ahead are doing together.”
Forum (SAF) highlights the of its competitors by becoming
Mostafiz Uddin, Founder of BAE
transformation from a linear to a center of compliance and
and organizer of the SAF, said:
a circular model in the apparel maintaining industrial regulations
“At every key fashion brand, the
sector – including circularity, to meet the challenges of the
discussion is the same right now.
climate action, renewable energy, Green transition. The European
It is ‘how can we cut our CO2
and human rights due diligence. Union is with you on this path of
emissions in order to meet net-
Green transformation.”
The Sustainable Apparel Forum, zero targets?’ Circular fashion
held on March 16, witnessed “We are also poised to invest could play a dynamic role because
60 prominent speakers and 20 hundreds of millions of euros closing the loop means not using
exhibitors from across the globe in support to generate energy virgin cotton, new fabrics. Instead,
gathered at the Forum organized from renewable sources. To help the industry is recycling and
by Bangladesh Apparel Exchange the country to meet its goal of reusing fabric waste, thus not only
(BAE) highlighting issues including generating 40% energy from decreasing CO2 emissions but
circularity, climate action, and renewable sources by 2041.” also safeguarding the best use of
human rights due diligence. natural resources.”
“European Union Chamber and
H.E. Charles Whiteley, Ambassador Commerce will be fully operational “That is why occasions such as
& Head of Delegation, European by this year – will assist businesses Sustainable Apparel Forum are
Union in Bangladesh highlighted in navigating with EU legislations so vital, as they offer a prospect
Bangladesh’s sustainable striDES such as due diligence.” to explore the trials and drive
and the EU’s assistance in this collective action for the industry.”
“The apparel sector is the beating
regard. Charles Whiteley said,
heart of EU-Bangladesh trade Speakers voiced that a thorough
“Everyone has a responsibility
relations. Apparel exports to approach is needed to safeguard a
for a sustainable planet –
the EU from Bangladesh stood sustainable business environment
governments, industries, civil
at €24 billion last year. After within the supply chain. They
society, and individuals. No one
the finalization of the new EU urged all stakeholders to put
can do everything but we all can
GSP regulation – some existing determinations together in a
do something to save the planet
uncertainties in EU-Bangladesh collaborative approach to build
by ensuring sustainability. In terms
trade relations will be removed. a more sustainable and resilient
of sustainability in the apparel
We need to intensify the work we supply chain.
March 2023
The Team
$2.50
$1.91
$2.00
$1.44
$1.26
$1.27
$1.50
$0.87
$0.75
$2.50
Tareq Amin
$0.48
$0.44
$0.45
$0.43
$0.32
$0.28
$0.00
2022 2023
Rahbar Hossain
Business Development
78 Advertorial
Zakir Hossain R|Elan™ FeelFresh - Wellness
Jr. Executive, Web & IT Solution for New-Age Fashion
80 Advertorial
Ashraful Alam AATCC TM214 tool to measure
Cinematographer accumulated condensation on
fabric
Umeduzzaman Khan Ucchas
Video Editor 80 Consumers Trends
Survey shows 69% US
consumers keen to pay more
APR gets C2C Certified
for sustainability
Md. Ariful Islam Material Health Certificate
Md. Masudur Rahman
Abir Basak
Editorial Contributions
Inquiry:
M. +88 01775 999 748
E. monir@textiletoday.com.bd
W. www.textiletoday.com.bd
SAF Event Review
“
Development and Cooperatives
the garment industry’s waste-
Minister Tajul Islam was present
based economy into a renewable
as the chief guest in the closing
economy. The second is the
ceremony in the evening while
cooperation of all in achieving It is not logical to limit
Siddiqur Rahman, former president
the goals of a sustainable apparel the issue of responsible
of BGMEA, Fazle Shamim Ehsan,
industry.” business and sustainable
vice president of BKMEA and
trade to the level of
Pointing out that the current others were present as special
manufacturers. Building a
government under the leadership guests.
sustainable and resilient
of Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina
supply chain requires Siddiqur Rahman said that the
is providing overall support in
concerted efforts by workers helped run the factory
transforming the waste-based
all stakeholders in an during Corona pandemic. After
economy of the garment industry
integrated approach. Rana Plaza, there are 192 green
into a renewable economy, he said,
factories and 200 more are in
various initiatives have already
pipeline. However, buyers don’t
been taken to make the garment
value it and don’t pay extra for it.
industry sustainable. We can
achieve better results in this field Nasrul Hamid MP, Honorable
through everyone’s coordination State Minister, Ministry of Power,
and cooperation. Energy and Mineral Resources,
Bangladesh; Zunaid Ahmed Palak
US Ambassador Peter D. Haas was
MP, Honorable State Minister for
present as the special guest at the
Information and Communication
Forum and said, ‘We are proud
Technology (ICT), Bangladesh;
to be the main destination for
Md. Atiqul Islam, The Mayor of
garments in Bangladesh. We want Faruque Hassan Dhaka North City Corporation and
to grow this relationship and also President, BGMEA Former President BGMEA; Salim
to talk about the role of labor in
Rahman, Chairman of Al Arafa
sustainable development.
Meanwhile, after the opening Islami Bank and MD of KDS Group;
The US Ambassador said that ceremony, 4 plenary sessions Naureen Chowdhury, Head of
the labor quality of Bangladesh were held on the ready-made Labor Rights Programme, Laudes
has improved in the last decade garment industry sector. In these Foundation; Tuomo Poutiainen,
and a half. But there are still sessions, local and foreign experts Country Director, International
many deficiencies. In many spoke and discussed the crisis, Labour Organization (ILO) also
cases, workers do not have the challenges and prospects of the spoke at the forum.
opportunity to form a trade union. garment sector.
Apart from this, there is a need
Ranjan Mahtani, Executive
for further improvement in other
Chairman of EPIC Group said,
matters related to workers’ wages.
“Today ensuring sustainability
BGMEA President Faruque Hassan is the biggest responsibility for
said that it is not logical to limit all of us in the supply chain. Yes,
the issue of responsible business as an entrepreneur, ensuring
and sustainable trade to the level
Brands are finding few factories outside the country Since the 1990s, China has spent hundreds of billions
that can produce the quality and quantity they of dollars transforming itself into the world’s premier
require location for manufacturing. Its factories have the
machinery and expertise needed to produce quality
When Lanny Smith founded Actively Black Inc. in
products at a volume and pace that’s difficult to
2020, he hired factories in China to produce the
match. Along the 80-mile stretch from Shenzhen to
brand’s athletic wear. But last year, concerned
Guangzhou, companies can weave, dye, sew, trim,
about production delays caused by China’s Covid
label and package anything from T-shirts to tuxedos.
lockdowns, Smith explored buying elsewhere. He
And China’s investment in highways, railroads, air
shipped samples to a supply chain agent who’d
hubs and seaports has created a smooth path from
assured him there were alternatives in Latin America.
factory gate to consumers worldwide. “Twenty years
“He hit me back the next day and said, ‘You’re
of concentration of manufacturing has created this,
not going to find anybody who can do this in the
and busting it apart and moving it to other places
Western Hemisphere,’ ” says Smith, 38, a former
on the planet is really hard,” says Kurt Cavano, chief
basketball star at the University of Houston.
executive officer of Nimbly Inc., a software platform
that connects clothing brands with factories and suppliers.
Despite growing tensions, US-China trade continues
to thrive. In 2022 the US imported $537 billion in
goods from China, slightly below the record $539
billion in 2018. For apparel, China remains the largest
exporter to the US, topping 10 billion units last year
alone, about double what came from No. 2 Vietnam,
according to the US Department of Commerce. A
majority of suppliers for Levi Strauss, Nike and North
Face owner VF Corp. are in China. And the country
remains the top source of furniture, bedding, lamps,
toys and sports equipment that Americans buy,
according to the most recent US government data.
Figure 1: For apparel, China remains the largest exporter to the
US, topping 10 billion units last year alone, about double what
Share Of US Textile and Apparel imports from China
came from No. 2 Vietnam.
By value
40%
For American companies like Actively Black, buying
from China has become more challenging in recent 30
Growing emphasis on hygiene and wellness in the garment thus reducing bad odour generated from
world of fashion body sweat. Since this technology is inherent in the
fibre, the functional benefits continue to remain even
Health, Hygiene and Wellness have now become a
after multiple garment washes. This smart fabric has
priority for most consumers in the purchases they
been designed to enhance comfort and aesthetics
make. The same trend has been seen in the world
making it one of the most sought-after fabric by
of fashion wherein consumers are seeking apparel
renowned domestic and global brands, retailers and
with inherent functional benefits that enhance their
apparel manufacturers.
wellness. Over the last couple of years, wellness
apart from being a lifestyle choice has also become R|Elan™ FeelFresh - Versatile solution used by brands
an influential trend in global fashion. and retailers across different fashion categories
Antimicrobial fabrics are in demand because they are Over the last few years, various brands have
effective in improving consumer experience. This has incorporated R|Elan™ FeelFresh fabric highlighting
been key to clothing that is wearable and comfortable, the fact that garments made from this performance
at the same time fashionable and functional. fabric help consumers in improving their wellness
and hygiene. Thus, stylish yet high-performance
The Research & Development (R&D) Department
apparel and accessories for consumers are possible
at Reliance Industries Ltd. (RIL) constantly strive
with R|Elan™ FeelFresh fabric’s anti-microbial technology.
to innovate and develop new technologies and
products that enhances end consumers’ experience R|Elan™ FeelFresh fabric provides brands with
and satisfaction. The various R|Elan™ technologies inherent anti-microbial technology to power different
developed by RIL’s R&D Department has imparted apparel fashion segments like denim, activewear,
performance enhancement, wellness features to the casualwear, athleisure, sportswear, formalwear,
products and these are trend-setters in the fashion innerwear etc. It also enables brands to address the
industry. R|Elan™ FeelFresh fabric is the outcome of emerging needs of consumers in the wellness and
one of such innovations. hygiene segments.
R|Elan™ FeelFresh fabric – Be Fresh 24x7 As a new product innovation, R|Elan™ FeelFresh
fabric technology can also be made available in
R|Elan™ FeelFresh, the next-generation wellness
recycled fibers that are manufactured using 100%
fabric with permanent antimicrobial properties
post-consumer used PET bottles.
is used to manufacture apparel across different
categories, masks and PPE. R|Elan™ FeelFresh is also Consumers today want to stay fresh and active apart
a preferred choice for manufacturing environment from looking stylish and fashionable. Now, garments
friendly apparels as it constrains manifestation of made with R|Elan™ FeelFresh fabric makes all this
bad odour. This is due to the inherent antimicrobial possible for the consumers over a long period.
property in R|Elan™ FeelFresh, even after extended R|Elan™ is Fabric 2.0 – fabric of the future.
usage of the garment thereby, reducing the need for
About Reliance Industries Limited (RIL):
frequent washing - saving water, electricity, energy and
time besides extending life and look of the garment. Reliance is India’s largest private sector company,
with a consolidated turnover of INR 539,238 crore
R|Elan™ FeelFresh fabric has been created
($73.8 billion), cash profit of INR 79,828 crore
from specially-engineered fibres and yarns with
($10.9 billion), and net profit of INR 53,739 crore
embedded silver that inhibits bacterial growth in the
($7.4 billion) for the year ended March 31, 2021.
Reliance’s activities span hydrocarbon exploration
and production, petroleum refining and marketing,
petrochemicals, retail and digital services. Reliance is
the top-most ranked company from India to feature
in Fortune’s Global 500 list of “World’s Largest
Companies”. The company stands 55th in the Forbes
Global 2000 rankings of “World’s Largest Public
Companies” for 2021 – top-most among Indian
companies. It features among LinkedIn’s ‘The Best
Companies to Work For In India’ (2021).
Recently, APR’s viscose staple Pacific Rayon fiber production, the environment.
fiber has been awarded the Cradle and meet the Institute’s strict
For this, the C2C Material Health
to Cradle (C2C) Certified Material criteria set out in the material
Certificate verifies that the
Health Certificate at the Silver level health certificate standard.
chemicals and materials used
from the Cradle to Cradle Products
“Consumers have the right to in their products, which has no
Innovation Institute.
expect the fibers used in their impact on human health and
daily lives to deliver when it comes the environment and generate a
to maternal health. Receiving positive impact on the quality of
the Cradle to Cradle Products materials available for future use
Innovation Institute’s Silver and cycling.
Level Cradle to Cradle Certified
To achieve this certification,
Material Health Certificate is
APR has been collaborated with
another positive step for APR in
Eco Intelligent Growth (EIG), an
demonstrating the safe use of
assessment body accredited by
materials, that our products are
the Cradle to Cradle Products
circular and responsibly produces,”
Figure: APR’s viscose staple fiber has Innovation Institute.
been awarded the Cradle to Cradle (C2C) said Susan Slabbert, Head of
Certified Material Health Certificate at
Sustainability at APR. “The C2C product standard
the Silver level from the Cradle to Cradle
Products
incentivizes environmentally and
At APR, they are committed
socially responsible manufacturing
to responsible manufacturing
The award proves that 100% of the practices, and we’re proud to be
practices and ensuring the safety
chemical substances used in Asia at the forefront of sustainable
of their products for people and
manufacturing,” she added.
As per a study from Blue Yonder – a digital supply As per Blue Yonder’s 2023 Consumer Sustainability
chain company – a notable 69% of consumers in the Survey, the recent high inflation remains to dominate
USA persist to invest in eco-mindful practices. factor for many consumers – as many as 58%
reported that price was the most vital factor in
The survey showed that US consumers were prepared
settling whether to make a sustainable buying.
to pay a premium for sustainable fashion that would
profoundly influence their daily lives, with apparel E-commerce has rushed in the past few years,
(30%) being one of the most prospective categories. customers are more than pleased to choose eco-
conscious shipping swiftness, with 78 percent eager to
Garments were one of the highest three consumer
wait up to a week for a late delivery. A whopping 86
goods categories that might be bought second-
percent of participants were ready to delay their online
hand. Thrifting second-hand apparel remains
shipping if they were given the incentive to do so.
prevalent, with nearly 31 percent listing this as
the eco-conscious practice they perform most Ed Wong, Senior Vice President, Global Retail Sector
frequently. Reusable bags also remain wiDESpread Leader, Blue Yonder said, “We are satisfied to see
among fashion lovers, with 24 percent ranking that US consumers remain as attentive as ever on
custom as their most common ecologically friendly adopting eco-conscious practices, with nearly 74%
practice in 2022. reporting shopping at retailers with sustainable
products in the last six months.”
The study results also demonstrated that only 4%
of respondents said they would pay 20% more. “It is clear that a symbiosis between brands and
Moreover, 48% of study participants expressed an consumers must drive successful, environmentally
increased interest in sustainability over the past year. friendly shopping. We’re deeply encouraged by
how many respondents are willing to consider a
Most notably, among the shoppers, it was reflected
sustainable product and company across resale and
that they are willing to pay 5 percent more for
new product sales,” Ed Wong added.
sustainable fashion products was the top selection.
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Exports Updates
Bangladesh's apparel
exporters regain US market
Arif-Uz-Zaman
Bangladesh's apparel exports to the US market are exporting 5.15% and 4.17% of apparel products.
on a positive trend. Total exports in the first month of
Bangladesh Garments Manufacturers and Exporters
this year stood at $867.64 million, which was $751.67
Association (BGMEA) president Faruque Hassan said
million in the same period of 2022. This information
the performance in the US market was 'very good' -
is known from the statistics of the Office of Textiles
considering the local and global economic conditions
and Apparel (OTEXA) under the US Department of
as well as overall US imports.
Commerce.
The BGMEA president highlighted manufacturing
Bangladesh was the third largest single export
destination after China and Vietnam with
a market share of 8.84% in January 2023,
Export volume ($bn) and growth of top exporting
compared to 9.78% in the same period in
2022. However, in the first seven months countries of US in January
$2.50
(July-January) of the current financial
$1.91
$1.26
$1.27
$1.50
according to the Export Promotion
$0.87
Bureau (EPB) data.
$0.75
$2.50
$0.48
$0.44
$0.45
$0.43
$0.32
Comparing these two data from OTEXA
$0.28
$0.00
2022 2023
a good signal for the country’s exporters.
According to OTEXA, total apparel
of value-added garments as well as product
imports to the United States reached $7.25 billion
diversification – especially non-cotton-based
in January 2023. Which is a decrease of 3.44% from
garment manufacturing, as the driving force behind
$7.52 billion in January 2022. Bangladesh's main
the growth.
competitors such as China, Vietnam and Cambodia
have experienced negative growth in apparel exports Moreover, Bangladesh has received some orders
to the US. from China amid the US-China trade dispute, he
noted.
Among exporters, China accounted for 24.61% of
exports in January 2023, earning $1.44 billion, which BGMEA director Mohiuddin Rubel said, the positive
is down to 24.2% from $1.91 billion in the same period growth in the US market is proof of Bangladesh's
of 2022. strength. It also shows how strong our position
will be if the global economy fully recovers from
At the same time, Vietnam exported $1.26 billion
the effects of Covid-19 and war. US buyers and
worth of apparel products which was $1.27 billion in
consumers put us ahead of other competitors as
2022, a decrease of 0.50%.
a sourcing country. We believe our position will be
After Bangladesh, India is in the fourth position stronger in the future.
with 5.2% of the market share, exported garments
However, amid consumer financial concerns and
worth $484.98 million in January 2023. Last year,
economic uncertainty, US apparel sales were
India exported $441.8 billion, that is, their exports
expected to decline, according to various estimates.
increased by 9.77%.
According to a recent report published by McKinsey
According to OTEXA data, apparel exports from
& Company, the fashion industry is once again facing
Indonesia to the United States rose 4.73% to $453.83
a challenging climate. This recession is expected to
million in the first month of 2023. At the same time,
continue till 2023. The global economic slowdown is
exports from Cambodia to the market decreased by
increasingly reflected in consumer shopping habits
12.92% to $282.75 million worth of apparel products.
heading into an unpredictable year ahead.
The two countries are ranked fifth and sixth by
Twelve Clothing Ltd. of TEAM Group – a lifestyle with our valued clients. We believe ‘Twelve Clothing’
fashion brand organized a fashion show ‘Twelve is connected with our customers’ happiness and
Runway’ on 10 March night on the roof of Le Meridien sadness through its collections.”
Hotel in Dhaka, where dozens of top models from
“We not only think about clothes but also try to
around the country participated. The fashion show
design the collections keeping modern trends and
was organized under the direction of Azra Mahmud.
fashion in mind. We want each and every person to
feel confident while wearing our clothes and be the
best versions of themselves,” he added.
Twelve has always emphasized seasonal variation
in its Eid collection. They have designed their Eid
collection by initiating innovation in both ethnic and
western sections. They named the entire collection
‘Royal Delicacy’ as they include a touch of royal
stylishness in this year’s Twelve’s dress designs.
Designers of Twelve created the collection with a
combination of prints, embroideries and different
forms of ornamentations in three categories of
Figure: Twelve created ethnic collection, mens, women, and kids. ethnic collection, mens, women, and kids. Punjabi,
Punjabi, the center of attraction for Eid collection, has unique the center of attraction for Eid collection, has unique
and eye-catchy designs.
and eye-catchy designs.
Twelve Clothing puts a great effort into making They have also launched a complete set of boys Pajama-
clothes that fit and please every individual customer. Punjabi along with matching stylishkoti sets. Nationwide,
They only make such products that they consider 36 outlets of Twelve is filled with their contemporary
attractive, high quality, contemporary, genuine and clothing line including three-piece salwar kameez, a two-
affordable as they want people to love their clothes piece kurta for women. The entire fashion show was full
and be confident while wearing them. of clothes that represented Twelve.
This fashion show turned into a gathering of the BesiDES, in terms of western collection, mens polo
best journalists of the country where the privileged t-shirts, casual shirt, jeans and various stylish clothes
customers of Twelve were also present here. were on display at the fashion show. Women’s
Team Group’s Managing Director Abdullah Hill Rakib collection of western wear consists of tops, tunic and
said, “We organized this gala runway to interact different types of jeans.
ASAHIFIX XP SERIES
R
The American Association of Textile Chemists and
Colorists (AATCC) has introduced a new test method
to measure accumulated condensation in a fabric, a
The art of dyeing textiles and garments with the confidence by
‘critical step’ in driving sustainable practices within
achieving the ultimate performance.
the supply chain.
The new test method of AATCC TM214 is a tool for
assessing the performance of fabrics in wet and
dry conditions, applicable to cloths, tent fabrics and
medical and technical temporary shelters. However, the
condensation rate depends greatly on the temperature
and vapor pressure throughout a fabric system.
According to the AATCC Research Committee,
the new method is designed to measure water
condensation on the inner (back) surface of
waterproof fabrics in humid microclimates. During
testing, the outer fabric (face) surface is subjected
to dry and wet conditions (simulated rainfall).
Condensation is calculated by calculating the
mass change of a filter paper attached to the inner
chamber for a specified period of time. TECHNOLOGY
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