Professional Documents
Culture Documents
The Mesh Bag Industry 1
The Mesh Bag Industry 1
Other sources:
19. https://www.925-1000.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=45092
20. https://thevintagecompactshop.com/blogs/antique-and-collectible-history/
21. https://www.silvercollection.it/
22. https://www.silvermakersmarks.co.uk/
23. https://www.encyclopedia.com
24. https://wikipedia.org
25. and others
* The title page picture “The jewel girl on the Cincinnati fall fashion pageant” is taken from “The Jewelers' Circular” 1926-
08-25.
To help collectors, researchers, fashion historians, reenactors, and other admirers of mesh bags.
♡
Miriam Marina Israeli
2
CONTENTS
Index .............................................................................................................................................................................. 4
The manufacturing of the mesh bag......................................................................................................................... 9
Part No. 1. Mesh bag manufacturers, importers and retailers ................................................................................. 28
American mesh bag industry .................................................................................................................................. 29
Canadian mesh bag industry ................................................................................................................................ 536
French mesh bag industry .................................................................................................................................... 555
German mesh bag industry................................................................................................................................... 589
Spanish mesh bag industry ................................................................................................................................... 602
British mesh bag industry .................................................................................................................................... 609
Russian mesh bag industry ................................................................................................................................... 640
Polish mesh bag industry...................................................................................................................................... 654
Austrian mesh bag industry ................................................................................................................................. 657
Dutch mesh bag industry ...................................................................................................................................... 661
Portuguese mesh bag industry ............................................................................................................................. 663
Asian mesh bag industry....................................................................................................................................... 664
Czechoslovakian mesh bag industry .................................................................................................................... 669
Part No. 2. Mesh bag repairers ................................................................................................................................. 670
Part No. 3. Miscellaneous mesh bag related articles ............................................................................................... 687
3
INDEX
8
The manufacturing of the mesh bag
9
“The Metal Industry” - 1910-01
10
11
12
“Family connections: a history of Italian and Jewish immigrant lives in Providence, Rhode Island, 1900-1940”
by Judith E. Smith
The reasons given for the employment of home instead of factory labor are lack of floor space in the factory, the
seasonal character of the demand for the product, the inadequacy of the local supply of labor, and the difficulty
of supervising so many workers as would be needed in the rush season. Some manufacturers give the added
reason that it is a charity to provide work for the many women who need the money but can not leave home to
come to the factory. No manufacturer of mesh bags reported the employment of home labor for more than 10
years and most of them have begun outside work within seven years. In spite of the invention of mesh machines,
which will doubtless ultimately do away with home work on ring and punch purses, the amount of home work
on these articles seems to be increasing.
On the other hand, although outside labor on chain has been long established in the industry, there is no indica-
tion that it is increasing in amount. It is probable that ultimately machines will take the place of chain makers of
all kinds of chain, but no machine has yet been invented for some of the more difficult kinds of chain and these
are still made by home linkers. Rope chain is the most important of these. Home work reduces the labor cost of
its production. It can be imported at the price paid here for labor only, but the rope chain made by intelligent
American women is superior in quality to that made in the Black Forest where children do the linking and charg-
ing and adults do only the soldering. Unsoldered brass chain is also still made at home because it can be done
more cheaply outside than inside the factory.
Painting on enamel is not, strictly speaking, a jewelry process and the factories are not equipped for such work
nor are the employees trained for it. As it is dependent upon a style, which soon passes, it is cheaper for the
13
manufacturers to have it done outside by those who have the proper training and equipment than to introduce
the necessary equipment and workers into their factories. As work on miscellaneous processes is mostly un-
skilled and can be done without factory supervision, it is done more cheaply in the home than in the factory. This
is especially true of those processes upon which whole families, including young children, are employed.
Method of Distribution
Workers almost invariably call for their work and return it to the factory or to the office or residence of the
contractor. There are no charges for transportation except an occasional car fare. The contracting system is a
unique feature of the Jewelry and Silverware industry in Massachusetts, and especially in the mesh bag business
as may be seen from the following table.
Almost nine-tenths of the contractors in the industry handle mesh. The contract system developed when the
sudden demand for purses made it impossible for firms to secure workers enough in their own vicinity and it has
increased with the increase in business. It relieves the manufacturer of the annoyance of dealing with the indi-
vidual workers, of the difficulty of supervising their work, and of the necessity of keeping records of their earn-
ings. By this system, the territory from which workers may be drawn is largely extended. Several firms have 50
contractors or more. Some of these are themselves workers who carry a little work to relatives or friends in their
immediate vicinity; others have a room in their homes set aside for receiving workers and giving out mesh; still
others have regular offices, pay from $10 to $15 a month for advertising and as much for express, pay out to
home workers in the rush season from $35 to $75 daily, carry a heavy insurance, handle from one to two tons of
mesh a year, and make an annual profit of $4,000 or $5,000. The average expense to the contractor is about three
cents a bag and the usual profit is five cents a bag. The large contractors do business for several firms both in
Massachusetts and Rhode Island, and most of them have sub-contractors. The manufacturers establish the rate
of pay and the contractors get the work done as cheaply as possible and make what profit they can. Only two
were reported as working on salary. Certain contractors do their best to keep the price up for their workers, but
many are accused of undercutting, which is said to be responsible in part for the rapidly declining rates of pay.
All but two of the contractors found in this industry were women, nearly all married women and housekeepers.
In almost all cases, mesh contractors pay express one way. Nine contractors, all women, were found handling
chain for eight factories. The contractors call for the light work at the factory but the firms usually deliver to the
contractors the heavy chain to be turned and soldered, paying either one-half or all of the transportation charges.
The contractors for enamel painting make sample patterns, which they submit to the manufacturers for approval
or revision. Rose, daisy, violet, or forget-me-not designs may be adapted to various styles and sizes of pins and
brooches to suit the demands of different firms. The contractors set the price for this work, but sometimes lower
it upon protest from the manufacturer. They entirely control the price paid the workers. No transportation
charges for workers or contractors were reported.”1
1 “Labor Bulletin No. 101. Industrial Home Work in Massachusetts” - June 12, 1914
14
“Industrial home work in Massachusetts” - 1915
15
“Industrial home work in Massachusetts” - 1915
16
“Industrial home work in Massachusetts” - 1915
17
“The Christian Science Monitor” - 1913-01-08
18
Eleanor Bennett: “Charles Whiting engaged the services of the inventor Alphonso Comstock Pratt to mechanize
the mesh manufacturing process. On March 10, 1909 A.C. Pratt lodged a patent application with the US Patent
Office for a machine for making mesh links. On February 8, 1910, the patent (US948615A) was published.
On December 27, 1920, a patent application for the firm was made for a machine making mesh link. On May 2,
1922, the patent (US1414829A) for this machine was published. The inventor was A.C. Pratt.
19
It appears as though Whiting & Davis were aided
in the automation of their plant by at least three
inventors. Patents were lodged on behalf of the
firm for mesh cutting, mesh link making and ma-
chines, which would feed the mesh into the other
machines and hold it fast.
Richard Berkeley noted that the link mesh used extensively in the
jewelry trade, and particularly fabric of the finer quality having
rings of small size, is comparatively fragile and the rings of the fab-
ric must not be subjected to any substantial stain (from the ma-
chine).
The third inventor involved in the mechanization of the mesh making process was Oscar Soderstrom of Plainville,
Massachusetts. The images below show the patent drawings for his mesh-cutting machine:
20
Now the machines were patented and in use, Whiting & Davis began to
dominate the market of mesh jewellery and accessories. At first, the firm
only had a few working machines. Eventually, the company had five
hundred working machines and a highly skilled workforce, which en-
sured the company, was history in the making. Such a sound footing that
the company is still in business today. Their huge success in America led
to expansion into Canada. The firm opened an office in Quebec c. 1914.
On June 17, 1921 the inventor, Fred Harris Lynds, of North Attleboro
submitted his patent application on behalf of Whiting & Davis for a sup-
port for link mesh fabric. The machine fed fabric, in this case, mesh, into
link making machines and held it in place. The publishing date of the
patent (US1470019A) was October 9, 1923.”2
2 https://thevintagecompactshop.com/blogs/antique-and-collectible-history/complete-history-of-whiting-davis
21
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1927-01-12
“Wilhelm Forlkner, L. Speidel and Walter Forlkner, representing a firm of chain makers in Pforzheim, Germany,
were visitors in this city [Providence] and in the Attleboros recently, attempting to dispose of patent rights on
certain machines and processes for making mesh bags and similar goods.”3
“Charles A. Whiting was in Chicago last week assisting F. E. Whiting to arrange the exhibit of the Whiting & Davis
Co., Plainville, at the ninth annual convention of the American National Retail Jewelers’ Association. Several ma-
chines used in making mesh bags were sent to the exhibition by the concern, and along with them a skilled me-
chanic, who will demonstrate the working of the machines. The Whiting & Davis Co. is the only firm in North
Attleboro and Plainville who had an exhibit at the convention. The company is receiving many favorable com-
ments from the townspeople for its progressiveness.”4
23
“Wire & Wire Products” - 1928-05
24
“Wire & Wire Products” - 1928-06
25
“Style” - 1921
26
The most common metals and alloys used to make mesh bags & vanity cases are:
1. Gunmetal, also known as red brass in the United States, is a type of bronze - an alloy of copper, tin, and
zinc. Proportions vary but 88% copper, 8-10% tin, and 2-4% zinc is an approximation. Originally used
chiefly for making guns, it has largely been replaced by steel for that purpose. Gunmetal casts and ma-
chines well, and is resistant to corrosion from steam and salt water.5
2. German silver, also known as Nickel Silver (G. silver, Ger. silver) is a copper alloy with nickel and
often zinc. The usual formulation is 60% copper, 20% nickel and 20% zinc. Nickel silver does not contain
the element silver. It is named for its silvery appearance, which can make it attractive as a cheaper and
more durable substitute. It is also well suited for being plated with silver. A naturally occurring ore com-
position in China was smelted into the alloy known as paktong or báitóng ('white copper' or cupronickel).
The name German Silver refers to the artificial recreation of the natural ore composition by German met-
allurgists.6
3. German silver plated item is made of a base metal, covered with a thin layer of German silver.
6. Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, in proportions, which can be varied to achieve different colors and
mechanical, electrical, acoustic, and chemical properties, but copper typically has the larger proportion.7
7. Silver plated item is made of a base metal, covered with a thin layer of sterling silver.
8. Gold-filled or Rolled gold item is composed of a solid layer of gold (typically constituting at least 5% of
the item's total weight) mechanically bonded to a base metal (usually brass).
9. Gold plated item is made of a base metal, covered with a thin layer of gold.
10. Platinum plated item is made of a base metal, covered with a thin layer of platinum.
11. Silver - depending on the country of manufacturing, various silver alloys were used:
Sterling silver - .950 or “Britannia silver”, .935 (most often found in German and Austrian bags),
.925 or “sterling” (most often found in American and British bags).
Silver - .900, .875 or “84” (most often found in Russian bags), .835, .833 (most often found in
Dutch bags), .830, .800 or “coin silver” (most often found in French and German bags).
Vermeil - gold plated or gold-filled silver.
12. Gold - depending on the country of manufacturing, various gold alloys were used:
18K (.750)
15K (.625) or 15ct (most often found in British bags)
14K (.585) or 56 (most often found in Russian bags)
10K (.417)
9K (.375) or 9ct (most often found in British bags)
13. Platinum.
5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gunmetal
6 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel_silver
7 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brass
27
Part No. 1
Mesh bag
manufacturers, importers
and retailers
28
American mesh bag industry
“CHARLES A. WHITING. As president and treasurer of the Whiting & Davis Company, Charles
A. Whiting is at the head of the largest specialty manufacturing jewelry house in its line in the
world at the present time [1928]. The concern is engaged in the manufacture of mesh bags,
and its main plant, located at Plainville, Massachusetts, covers 80,000 square feet and gives
employment to five hundred people. The business is fifty-two years old (1928), and it was only
four years old when Mr. Whiting first became identified with the original business as errand
boy and general utility man at the wage of nine cents an hour. He has been a member of the
firm since 1896, and president and treasurer since 1908.
Charles A. Whiting was born in Cumberland, Rhode Island, July 4, 1864, son of
Aaron, a cotton mill owner in Cumberland, and of Adeline C. (Miller) Whiting. He
received a good, practical education in the public schools of his birthplace, and
then, in 1880, at the age of sixteen years, entered the employ of Wade, Davis &
Company, manufacturers of plated jewelry, as errand boy and general utility man,
receiving for his services the sum of nine cents an hour. This concern had been
founded in 1876, four years previous to Mr. Whiting’s first connection with the
business, by William H. Wade, Edward P. Davis, and Louis Heckman, who formed
a partnership, and in association with three others, who were silent partners, Jo-
seph T. Bacon, James D. Lincoln, and Frank Tifft, engaged in the manufacture of
jewelry. Each of the six associates contributed five hundred dollars, making a total
capital of three thousand dollars, and the concern started operations in the little
hamlet known as Plainville, Norfolk County, Massachusetts, under the name of
Wade, Davis & Company, manufacturing such plated jewelry as bar pins, earrings,
bracelets, and stickpins.
The first mesh bag made by the concern was made by Mr. Whiting in 1892, and in
1896 Mr. Whiting became a member of the firm, under the name of Whiting & Davis.
In 1907 Mr. Whiting purchased Mr. Davis’ interest, and in 1908 he incorporated the
firm under the name of Whiting & Davis Company. The following year, 1909, the
invention by A. C. Pratt of the first machines for making mesh and the arrangements
made with him by the Whiting & Davis Company, started the concern in the manu-
facture of machine-made mesh bags. By the assumption of Mr. Pratt’s patents, the
company became the exclusive and pioneer maker of machine-made mesh, and the
basic and additional patents on the original and later machines were and are so
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1897-03-03 carefully drawn that foreign and American manufacturers who have tried to build
mesh-making machines have been unable to do so. Up to this time, mesh had been made by hand, and for several
years Mr. Whiting had been searching for a method of making mesh bags by machine. The Pratt invention solved
his problem, and by virtue of holding those patents the Whiting & Davis found that by 1912 business had assumed
such proportions that it seemed expedient to separate the mesh manufacturing department from the general
29
jewelry manufacturing business of the firm. It was the year 1909 that the first work was done on mesh machines,
in the Sloan & Chase factory, Newark, New Jersey, for the Whiting & Davis Company. These machines were
shipped to Franklin, Massachusetts, where the Whiting & Davis Company had a branch factory in the Morse Opera
Block. It occupied seven hundred and fifty square feet of space and twelve machines were operated, one operator
for each machine, with twelve girls cutting and joining the mesh for the bags. The production was shipped each
day to the main plant in Plainville. As business increased this branch was too small and was moved to the main
plant at Plainville, in April 1910, where it occupied a floor space of fifteen hundred square feet, and included
thirty machines. In February 1912, a new factory was built, with a mesh room of two thousand square feet and
with fifty machines, the machines being so controlled that one operator could handle four machines. In 1915, a
large addition was made to the factory, giving 5,000 square feet of floor space, and at the present time (1928)
five hundred machines are operated. Each machine has automatic stops and individual motor drive, making it
possible for one operator to run twelve machines. Automatic machines now do most of the cutting and joining of
the mesh, operations which formerly were done by hand. All of these mesh machines and all the automatic ma-
chinery used by the Whiting & Davis Company are designed and built in their own factory by a corps of expert
workers, as are the tools which are used in the making of the machinery.
Until 1921, the advertising of the Whiting & Davis Company had been confined to the trade papers and to direct
mail announcements. In that year, the company began a campaign of extensive national advertising, in order to
extend the market for mesh bags and to make them a matter of every day use rather than a luxury. An advertising
agency was selected, plans formulated, and a campaign of national consumer advertising inaugurated. In 1925,
alone the advertising message was delivered to thirty-six million readers of nineteen national magazines, and in
addition to this publicity, the Whiting & Davis mesh bag, or the mesh used in other ways has been exploited and
featured by leading theatrical and screen productions such as "The Music Box Revue", "Black Oxen", and other
successes, where the Whiting & Davis products were most subtly "put across" to hundreds of thousands. The
company maintains a New York sample room at No. 366 Fifth Avenue, and another at No. 31 North State Street,
in Chicago, and there is a Canadian Whiting & Davis Company, plant is located at Sherbrooke, Province of Quebec,
Canada. In 1926 the company celebrated its Golden Anniversary by putting on the market an exquisitely designed
mesh bag at a special price, in order that its patrons might share in the celebration, by getting out a special num-
ber of its magazine ‘Wadco News’, and by a series of "good times" well-equipped rooms prepared for pleasure
and recreation. Across the street from the factory is the Walter L. Rice Memorial building, where visitors are
always welcome. It is a good sized building, providing adequate space for entertainments, and including a thor-
oughly modern kitchen and dining room, where the employees may obtain a table d’hote midday meal served at
less than cost. Around the building is ample parking space for automobiles. The policy of the Whiting & Davis
concern is service, and it has consistently made its contact with employees and with patrons one of mutual ben-
efit. As a result of a square deal to both, the company has the earnest and interested cooperation of its five hun-
dred employees, and the good will of its thousands of patrons. Every effort has been made to make employment
at the plant as enjoyable and as profitable as possible, and protection from injury is one of the strong features of
the management. So thoroughly are workmen protected from injury by safety devices, etc., that the liability com-
pany with which the company deals told Mr. Whiting that their deduction for 1925 is the largest of which they
have any record, indicating that most unusual efforts have been made by Whiting & Davis to safeguard their
employees. A Mutual Relief Association sponsored by the company is another phase of its welfare work.
In addition to his responsibilities in connection with the world’s largest specialty manufacturing jewelry house
in its line, Mr. Whiting is vice-president of the Manufacturers Bank. Politically, he gives his support to the princi-
ples and the candidates of the Republican Party. He is a member of the Free and Accepted Masons, and of the
Royal Arch Masons; also of the Benevolent and Protective Order of Elks. He is a member of the Boston Chamber
of Commerce, also of the Franklin Country Club and of the Franklin Business Men’s Association, and his religious
affiliation is with the Universalist church.
Charles A. Whiting was married, in 1887, to Josie Heaton, daughter of William and Nancy Ann (Hall) Heaton, and
they are the parents of one daughter, Marion W. The family home is in Franklin.”8
“The Whiting & Davis Company, of Plainville, have had an immense sign erected near the Wrentham line with the
greeting: "Welcome to Plainville, Home of the Mesh Bag."”9
33
34
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“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1903-02-18
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“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1903-06-17
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“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1905-04-19
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“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1907-02-27
44
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1907-07-17
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“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1909-02-10
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“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1910-04-06
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“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1913-04-09
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“The Ladies' Home Journal” - 1921-10
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“Harper's Bazaar” - 1921-11
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“The Ladies' Home Journal” - 1921-12
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Plainville Public Library
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Plainville Public Library
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Plainville Public Library
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Plainville Public Library
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Plainville Public Library
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Plainville Public Library
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Plainville Public Library
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Plainville Public Library
105
“Vogue” - 1921-12-15
106
“The American Exporter” - 1922
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108
“Harper's Bazaar” - 1922-03
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“The Ladies' Home Journal” - 1922-04
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“The Ladies' Home Journal” - 1922-06
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“Vogue” - 1922-09-15
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“The Saturday Evening Post” - 1922-09-30
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“Harper's Bazaar” - 1922-10
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“The Ladies' Home Journal” - 1922-10
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“The Ladies' Home Journal” - 1922-11
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“Harper's Bazaar” - 1922-11
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“Vogue” - 1922-12-01
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“The Ladies' Home Journal” - 1922-12
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“Theatre magazine” - 1922
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“Theatre magazine” - 1922
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“Theatre magazine” - 1922
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A sterling silver mesh bag by “Whiting & Davis”, 1922, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
126
127
“The Ladies' Home Journal” - 1923-03
128
“Harper's Bazaar” - 1923-03
129
“The Ladies' Home Journal” - 1923-05
130
“The Ladies' Home Journal” - 1923-06
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“The Ladies' Home Journal” - 1923-09
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“Printers' Ink” - 1923-09-06
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“Printers' Ink” - 1923-09-06
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“Printers' Ink” - 1923-09-06
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“Printers' Ink” - 1923-09-06
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“The Ladies' Home Journal” - 1923-10
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“Harper's Bazaar” - 1923-10
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“Photoplay” - 1923-11
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“Photoplay” - 1923-12
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“The Saturday Evening Post” - 1923-12-01
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“Harper's Bazaar” - 1923-12
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“Photoplay” - 1924-01
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“Photoplay” - 1924-02
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“Photoplay” - 1924-03
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“Photoplay” - 1924-04
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“Photoplay” - 1924-05
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“Photoplay” - 1924-06
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“Harper's Bazaar” - 1924-06
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“Photoplay” - 1924-09
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“Photoplay” - 1925-02
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“Photoplay” - 1925-04
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“Vogue” - 1925-05-01
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“Cosmopolitan” - 1925-09
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“Courtesy of The Napier Company” - 1925
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“Photoplay” - 1926-02 “Harper's Bazaar” - 1926-12
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“Photoplay” - 1927-10
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“Vogue” - 1928-02-15 “Photoplay” - 1928-03
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“Vogue” - 1928-06-01
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“Photoplay” - 1928-09
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“Ladies' Home Journal” - 1928-10 & 1928-12
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“The Redbook Magazine” - 1928-11
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“Vogue” - 1928-11-24
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‘Photoplay” - 1929-06
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“The Smart Set” - 1929-06
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“The Smart Set” - 1929-10
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“Photoplay” - 1929-10
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“Photoplay” - 1929-10
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“The Smart Set” - 1929-11
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“Photoplay” - 1929-12
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“Photoplay” - 1930-12
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“Motion Picture” (Aug 1933-Jan 1934) by Motion Picture Publications, Inc.
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“Motion Picture” (Aug 1933-Jan 1934) by Motion Picture Publications, Inc.
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“Motion Picture” (Aug 1933-Jan 1934) by Motion Picture Publications, Inc.
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“Motion Picture” (Aug 1933-Jan 1934) by Motion Picture Publications, Inc.
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A Whiting & Davis Co. advertisement for the Cuban market
Kates Brothers - Havana - 1919
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A Whiting & Davis Co. advertisement for the Canadian market:
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Patents Granted by the United States to “Whiting & Davis Co.”:
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United States Patent Office
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United States Patent Office
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United States Patent Office
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“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1923-06-06
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“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1923-07-18
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“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1923-07-25
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United States Patent Office
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United States Patent Office
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United States Patent Office
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United States Patent Office
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“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1923-11-21
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“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1923-10-17
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“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1923-10-03
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“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1924-12-03
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United States Patent Office
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United States Patent Office
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United States Patent Office
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United States Patent Office
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United States Patent Office
217
AUTOMATIC MESHBAG Co.
Providence, Rhode Island
The Whiting & Davis Co., Plainville, Mass., has purchased the entire plant, business and good-will of the Automatic
Meshbag Co., Providence, R.I. The taking over of the Automatic Meshbag Co. is of more than usual interest to the
trade, as it marks another step in the policy of the Whiting & Davis Co. toward the standardization of both man-
ufacturing and selling practices in the industry; and toward the eventual elimination of conditions detrimental
to the best interests of all concerned.11
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N. SHURE Co.
Chicago, Illinois
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MANDALIAN MANUFACTURING Co.
North Attleboro, Massachusetts
The owner of Mandalian Mfg. Co. was a man named Sahatiel Garabed Mandalian. Mandalian was
a prolific inventor with many patented designs registered to him. He emigrated from Turkey to
the United States of America in 1898. In 1906 Mandalian entered into partnership with Eugene
A. Hawkins. At this time, the firm was known as Mandalian & Hawkins. On November 7 1912, the
partners applied to register patent no. 1087941. This application referred to the design of a ma-
chine for making coat of mail fabric. The inventor was George Gos. All three men are listed as
residing in North Attleboro in the county of Bristol, Massachusetts.12
12 https://thevintagecompactshop.com/blogs/antique-and-collectible-history/mandalian-mesh-bags-history-heritage-and-patents
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1924
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1920s
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An example of a mesh bag by “Mandalian Mfg. Co.”:
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Patents Granted by the United States to “Mandalian Mfg. Co.”:
On May 24 1915 Mandalian filed a patent to register a new design of bag top and frame. The assignor was a British
subject, J.W. Jennings, who was at the time resident in Providence in the state of Rhode Island. The invention
related to a bag top, which can be folded.13
13 https://thevintagecompactshop.com/blogs/antique-and-collectible-history/mandalian-mesh-bags-history-heritage-and-patents
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United States Patent Office
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United States Patent Office
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United States Patent Office
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United States Patent Office
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United States Patent Office
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United States Patent Office
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United States Patent Office
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United States Patent Office
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United States Patent Office
237
United States Patent Office
238
United States Patent Office
239
United States Patent Office
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United States Patent Office
241
BELINE & GLASSER
49 Second Street, later 1352 Bryant Avenue, Bronx, New York
242
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1909-11-03
243
PRYOR NOVELTY Co.
473 Washington Street, Newark, New Jersey & 7 Maiden Lane, New York
In 1907 the company restyled their name to Pryor Mfg. Co. Part of their trade
mark was adjusted from 'N' to 'M'.
Founded by Shubael Cottle in 1865 as manufacturer of collar buttons, paper knives, pen trays, penwiper stands,
candlesticks. Shubael Cottle ritired in 1878 and the firm continued as Hale & Mulford. Succeeded in 1884 by Seth
W. Hale & Company. Out of business c. 1920.
245
“The Jewelers' Circular and Horological Review” - 1906-02-28
A sterling silver mesh bag by “S. Cottle & Co.”, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
246
247
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1909-03-10
248
249
250
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1914-06-10 “The Jewelers' Circular” - 1914-11-04
251
BRISTOL MANUFACTURING Co.
Attleboro, Massachusetts
252
“The Keystone” - vol. 29, no. 4 - April 1908
253
“The Keystone” - vol. 28, no. 4 - April 1907
254
255
256
257
WEIZENEGGER BROTHERS
358 Halsey Street, Newark, New Jersey
258
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1905-10-18
259
“Jewelers' Circular and Horological Review” - 1906 - Vol. 52 (Part 3)
260
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1905-11-29
261
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1908-09-16
262
THE W.H. SAART Co.
Attleboro, Massachusetts
15
15 https://www.silvercollection.it/AMERICANSILVERPLATEMARKSS.html
263
264
265
266
267
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1914-02-18
268
269
An example of a mesh bag by “The W. H. Saart Co.”:
270
R. BLACKINTON & Co.
North Attleboro, Massachusetts
Manufacturers of Solid Gold, Silver and Plated Jewelry-Whitney Building, No. 32 Chestnut Street; New York Office,
No. 182 Broadway.
The firm of R. Blackinton & Co. is one of the old reliables, established about 1862, and is composed of Messrs.
Roswell Blackinton and Walter Ballou, the senior member a director of the North Attleboro National Bank and
prominent in business and social circles. Mr. Ballou, a thorough practical jeweler, looks after the factory. The
office and salesroom are situated at No. 182 Broadway, New York, where buyers visiting the city are invited to
call and examine a superb line of samples that embraces all the late popular novelties in solid gold, silver and
plated jewelry in every grade and style, suited to the wants of all markets and both sexes. The factory occupies
one floor, 60 x 200 feet, of the big three-story Whitney brick building, No. 32 Chestnut street, and is thoroughly
fitted up with the newest and most effective machinery and appliances, the firm giving employment to about 100
skilled and unskilled operatives, and dealing for the most part with eastern, western and southern jobbers. In
response to a growing demand, Messrs. Blackinton & Co. are making more silver novelties than heretofore.16
17
1906
273
274
275
276
An example of a silver mesh bag by “R. Blackinton & Co.”, c. 1920s, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
277
278
279
280
281
282
283
284
“Vogue” - 1923-12-01
285
B.M. SHANLEY, Jr., Co.
New York & Newark, New Jersey
286
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1910-10-26
287
PAYE & BAKER Mfg. Co.
North Attleboro, Massachusetts
288
289
290
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1909-09-01
“Harold E. Nock has been granted a patent on a mesh bag which he has assigned to the Paye & Baker Mfg. Co.”
“The Paye & Baker Mfg. Co., North Attleboro, have opened a Chicago office in the Heyworth building, 42 E. Madi-
son St.”18
“An indication of the business outlook for the coming season can be gained by the following want advertisements,
which appeared last week in the local paper: Bench hands, Whiting & Davis; girls on mesh bags, the H. H. Curtis
Co.; girls for packing room, the Webster Co.; first-class stamper, Geo. L. Paine & Co.; girls on cost work, Paye &
Baker Mfg. Co.; bag frame makers, the N. Barstow Co.; girls to work on mesh bags, the Coddling & Heilborn Co.;
girls to mend chains, the H. F. Barrows Co.”19
292
293
294
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1911-11-08
295
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1911-12-13
296
297
LOUIS STERN & COMPANY
158 Pine Street, Providence, Rhode Island & 15 Maiden Lane, New York
298
299
300
301
302
303
304
305
306
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1912-08-28
307
1912
308
An example of a vermeil mesh bag by “Louis Stern & Co.”, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
309
CODDING & HEILBORN Co.
North Attleboro, Mass., 3 Maiden Lane, New York
310
“The Keystone” - vol. 26, no. 6 - June 1905
311
“The Keystone” - vol. 27, no. 4 - April 1906
312
“The Jewelers' Circular and Horological Review” - 1908, 57 (Part 1)
313
314
315
M.J. AVERBECK
10-12 Maiden Lane, New York
316
“The Keystone” - vol. 29, no. 4 - April 1908
317
318
319
320
W.J. BAILEY COMPANY - CLIMAX MESH BAG COMPANY
8 Johnson Street, later 401-407 Mulberry Street, Newark, New Jersey
“W. J. Bailey, Johnson St., has just started the manufacture of sterling silver and 14 karat gold mesh bags. Hith-
erto he has made German silver mesh bags. He started his new venture because of a number of inquiries, which
he has received for goods of that kind.”20
“The Climax Mesh Bag Co., 8 Johnson St., is working every night until 9 o’clock in order to fill its orders. Milton
Harris will represent the company in the metropolitan district during the coming season. Edward Starm will
represent the company in the middle west, and L. Kramer will cover the south.”21
“A fire of unknown origin swept through the Ruesch Building, 401 Mulberry Street, about a month ago, causing
more than $100,000 damage to building, machinery, fixtures, stock, etc. The following jewelry concerns were
burned out: William Link Company; Schmitz, Moore & Company; Myer & Gross; the Climax Mesh Bag Company,
and William J. Bailey, Inc. Other firms were caused losses by smoke and water. Since the fire considerable work
has been done on the building, and all of these concerns hope to be again running before the 1st of February.”22
“William J. Bailey, head of the W. J. Bailey Company, 407 Mulberry Street, Newark, N. J., died recently, following
a lengthy illness, at 47 years of age. He was born in Verona, N. J. He learned the toolmaker's trade and later or-
ganized the Climax Manufacturing Company, and still later the W. J. Bailey Company, one of the largest gold and
silver mesh bag manufacturing concerns in the country. During the war, he utilized his plant for the manufac-
ture of fuse caps and buttons. He was an inventor of repute, inventing, among other things, several stamping
machines. After the armistice was signed, Mr. Bailey began the manufacture of gold and silver purse frames.
The deceased leaves a widow and two daughters.”23
321
EASTWOOD-PARK COMPANY
9-11-13 Maiden Lane, N.Y., Newark, New Jersey
322
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1910-06-29
323
324
325
326
327
328
329
330
An example of a silver mesh bag by “Eastwood-Park Co.”:
331
ERNST GIDEON BEK
30 Frederick Street, Birmingham
“Cullem's Calculator for Jewelers” - 1907 A 9ct gold mesh bag by “Ernst Gideon Bek”
“Ernst Gideon Bek Mfg. Co., which manufactures fine mesh bags and chains, and which recently established a
new factory at Irvington, N. J., will, Dec. 15, open a new office at 366 Fifth Ave., and Ernest Gideon Bek, vice-
president of the concern, will divide his time between the office and factory. Mr. Bek, who has been a manufac-
turer of jewelry at Pforzheim, Germany, and still owns a factory there, has been well known to the jewelers of
the United States for the last 30 years, having visited this country continuously. With the establishment of this
new American factory, Mr. Bek intends to sell directly to the retail jewelers of the United States hereafter and
not through any agents and will personally conduct the business here.”24
“The new factory of the Ernst Gideon Bek Mfg. Co. was recently opened at 192 Burnett Ave., Irvington, N. J.,
while the New York office will be opened this week at 366 Fifth Ave. Ernest Gideon Bek, vice-president of the
concern, will divide his time between the factory and office.”25
Ernst Gideon Bek was born on the 18th April 1872 at Pforzheim, he served his apprenticeship with the Rothacker
company in Pforzheim, and then at the companies Kinzinger in Pforzheim and Baer in Hanau. In 1896, he served
as General Manager to the Pforzheim jewelery industry at the World Exhibition in Chicago.
He set up his own business in 1897 and quickly established branches in Birmingham, Paris, Toronto, New York
City, Newark and India. In 1899 he married Emilie C. Binder, the daughter of German emigrants, in America, and
no doubt this is where the connection with Binder Brothers stems from (Emilie's brother, Lawrence O. Binder,
was one of the three partners of Binder Brothers.). Between 1897 to 1914 Bek travelled to America on more than
100 occasions.
After returning from a trip to Italy in July 1932, Ernst Gideon Bek suffered a stroke, from which he never fully
recovered. In 1934, he passed the business to his two sons Wesley, born 1903, and Orville Sigfrid, born 1909. The
brothers reformed the company as 'EG Bek & Co.KG'.26
An example of a sterling silver mesh bag by “Ernst Gideon Bek”, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
26 https://junkboxtreasures.com/research/jewelry/company/ernst_gideon_bek/ernst_gideon_bek.html
333
334
335
336
337
338
BINDER BROS., Inc.
15 Maiden Lane, New York
“An announcement was made last week by Binder Bros., Inc., that they had purchased from the United States
Government all the stock formerly owned by E. G. Bek in the business of Ernst Gideon Bek. The firm of Binder
Bros. is composed of Elmer C. Binder and Lawrence C. Binder, and is located at 15 Maiden Lane.”27
The Napier Co. was founded in Attleboro MA in 1875. Originally known as Whitney & Rice, the company special-
ized in silver products. In 1890 the company was renamed E. A. Bliss Co., and moved to Meriden CT.
340
Examples of mesh bags by “E. A. Bliss Co.”:
341
342
North Attleboro (Bristol County, Massachusetts)28
“Vogue” - 1919-12-15
28 https://www.historicnewengland.org/explore/collections-access/gusn/321031
343
“The Redbook Magazine” - 1919-11
344
“The Redbook Magazine” - 1919-12 & “Vogue” - 1919-11-15
345
346
“Vogue” - 1920-10-01 “Vogue” - 1921-09-01
347
An example of a sterling silver mesh bag by “E.A. Bliss Co.”, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
The trade marks of “The E.A. Bliss Co.” / “The Napier Co.”:
348
“Harper's Bazaar” – 1920 & 1922
349
GORHAM Mfg. Co.
Providence, Rhode Island
Gorham Silver was founded in Providence, Rhode Island, in 1831 by Jabez Gorham, a master craftsman, in part-
nership with Henry L. Webster. The firm's chief product was spoons of coin silver. The company also made thim-
bles, combs, jewelry, purses, and other small items.
29
29 https://www.925-1000.com/Gorham_Date_Code.html
350
“Gorham suggestions” by Gorham Manufacturing Company - 1898
351
“Gorham suggestions” by Gorham Manufacturing Company - 1898
352
An example of a bag by “Gorham Mfg. Co.”, 1892, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
353
354
355
LIPPMANN, SPIER & HAHN
524, later 1255, later 1261 Broadway, New York
1922
356
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1922-02-01
357
HENRY WIENER & SON
366 Fifth Avenue, New York
Henry Wiener & Son were the original patentee of the Picca-
dilly mesh bag.
358
359
360
“Canadian jeweler” - 1920
361
362
“Vogue” - 1920-11-15
363
364
J.W. ROSENBAUM & Co.
44-46-48 Hunter Street, later 71-77 Austin Street, Newark, New Jersey & 5th Avenue, New York
“J.W. Rosenbaum & Company, making German silver mesh bags, vanity cases and toilet sets, have been increasing
the output and quality, since moving into their own building.”30
1914
31
367
SCHANFEIN & TAMIS
45 John Street, later 71 Nassau Street, New York
368
LEVITT & GOLD
71-73 Nassau Street, New York
369
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1917-02-07
370
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1919-02-05
371
SANDERSON MANUFACTURING Co.
Temple and Public Streets, Providence, Rhode Island
“Sidney J. Straker, who recently severed his associations with the Sanderson Mfg. Co. manufacturer of mesh bags,
at Pawtucket, is now associated with the S.A. Rosene Co., North Attleboro, having taking an interest therein.”32
373
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1922-07-26
374
M. FREEDMAN & Co.
59-61 Maiden Lane, New York City
375
MORRIS, MANN & REILLY
Chicago, New York and Providence
33
33 https://www.langantiques.com/university/mark/morris-mann-reilly/
376
377
“Vogue” - 1919-04-01
378
HIBBERT & JASLOW
43 Leonard Street, New York & 207 St. James Street, Montreal
379
July - December 1913
380
CROSS & BEGUELIN
31 Maiden Lane, New York
381
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1910-12-07
382
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1921-03-16
383
TIFFANY & Co.
Fifth Avenue & 37th Street, New York
384
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1903-12-16
385
“Harper's Bazaar” - 1910-02
386
1961
387
GARLAND-FISHER COMPANY
530 Mulberry Street, New Jersey
388
CROSBY Mfg. Co.
556 Broadway, New York
389
PARIS NOVELTY Co.
2700 Evanston Avenue, Chicago
390
N. BARSTOW COMPANY
7 Beverly Street, Providence, Rhode Island
391
UNGER BROS.
Newark, N. J.
Unger Bros. or Unger Brothers (1872–1910) was a jewelry company in Newark, New Jersey, best known for their
sterling silver Art Nouveau designs. Five sons from a German immigrant family established the company.
An example of a sterling silver mesh bag by “Unger Bros.”, from the private collection of Kathy Gunderson:
392
Another example of a sterling silver mesh bag by “Unger Bros.”:
393
RIPLEY & GOWAN Co.
Attleboro, Massachusetts
Established in 1874, and incorporated in 1921. In 1968, the company was acquired by Barrow Industries, and
then in 1981 by JED Industries. R&G marketed jewelry lines in the names of R&G, R&G Co., LaMode, and the R&G
letters within a padlock.34
34 https://tri-stateantiques.com/compman.html
394
HOWARD & COCKSHAW Co.
220 Fourth Avenue, New York, N. Y.
395
Another example of a silver mesh bag by “Howard & Cockshaw Co.”, c. 1900s:
396
DANIEL LOW & Co.
231 Essex Street at the corner of Washington Street, Salem, Massachusetts
Daniel Low (1842-1911), maker and retailer of sterling silver vanity items and novelties established in 1867 as
a small jewelry shop in Salem.
35
c. 1900s
35 https://www.silvercollection.it/USASILOW.html
397
“Ainslee's Magazine” - 1905-11
398
399
400
401
SEARS, ROEBUCK & Co.
Minneapolis, Minnesota, later Chicago
American retailer of general merchandise, tools, home appliances, clothing, and automotive parts and services.
In 1886 Richard W. Sears founded the R.W. Sears Watch Company in Minneapolis, Minnesota, to sell watches by
mail order. He relocated his business to Chicago in 1887, hired Alvah C. Roebuck to repair watches, and estab-
lished a mail-order business for watches and jewelry. The company’s first catalog was offered the same year. In
1889 Sears sold his business but a few years later founded, with Roebuck, another mail-order operation, which
in 1893 came to be known as Sears, Roebuck and Company.36
36 https://www.britannica.com/topic/Sears-Roebuck-and-Company
402
“Catalogue no. 112” - 1900s
403
“Catalogue no. 124” - 1912
404
“Sears, Roebuck And Co. Catalog” - 1918
405
“Sears, Roebuck And Co. Catalog” - 1918
406
1923
407
1923
408
1930
409
FOSTER & BAILEY
100 Richmond Street, Providence, R. I.
Foster & Bailey was an American silversmith that operated between 1878 and 1898. Prior to that, the firm was
known as White & Foster, from approximately 1873 up until 1878. Between 1898 and 1951, the company con-
tinued to operate under the name Theodore W. Foster and Bros, however it used the same "F&B Sterling" hall-
mark on its silver as Foster & Bailey, which can make it difficult to determine when a piece was made.
410
411
412
UNITED STATES PATENTS,
Issue of September 18, 1923:
An example of a vanity case by “Foster & Bailey”, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
“Theodore W. Foster & Bro. Co., Inc., of this city, have announced that their Chicago office now in room 901 will
be moved to room 1901 in the Heyworth building about May 1.”37
“The New York office of the Theodore W. Foster & Bro. Co., has been removed to 475 Fifth Ave. The concern’s
former offices were at 8 W. 40th St.”38
1915
414
1917
415
1920
416
A.J. HEDGES & Co.
12 to 16 John St. New York
417
CARTER, HOWE & Co.
9-11-13 Maiden Lane, New York
418
WIENER BROS.
325 Fifth Avenue, New York
419
CHARLES A. KEENE
180 Broadway, New York
420
MILLER BROTHERS
New York
1922
421
R.H. MACY & Co.
151 West 34th Street, New York
“Rowland H. Macy made his fifth attempt at opening a retail store in Manhattan in 1858. His previous four at-
tempts with similar stores had failed resoundingly, culminating, with the demise of his shop of Haverhill, Massa-
chusetts, in his bankruptcy. Although Macy’s store was situated far north of the traditional retail market, the store
on Sixth Avenue near Fourteenth Street sold a healthy $85,000 worth of merchandise within one year.”39
39 https://www.encyclopedia.com/books/politics-and-business-magazines/rh-macy-co-inc
422
ELGIN AMERICAN Mfg. Co.
Elgin, Illinois; 15 Maiden Lane, New York; Chicago
423
By 1921, Elgin American vanities were widely advertised
in the press. In this year, the main office and factory were
still located in Elgin, Illinois. The New York branch was at
Maiden Lane and the Chicago branch was at 29 E. Madison
Street. Elgin American vanities ranged widely in price. The
top of the range were fashioned from solid gold. Sterling
silver vanity cases were more popular, as gold was out of
the reach of most ladies. Some of the solid silver cases were
‘inlaid with solid gold’. Gold-filled cases were also offered
for sale, which had all the appeal of solid gold and the ob-
vious advantage of being more affordable. It is curious to
note that the firm did not apply for any patents for their “The Jewelers' Circular” - 1918-02-06
vanities until 1923. The vanity cases were fitted with a strap so that they could be worn on the wrist - a dance
purse. The wrist straps were equipped with a slider, which would secure the vanity purse and enable the lady to
dance with her fashionable accessory. The interior contained compartments that could house powder, a memo-
randum, pencil, make-up, money, coins placed in the coin holders, as well as a mirror and maybe even a tiny
comb. In 1921 Max Eppenstein died. Solomon became the company president. Max’s son, Louis, was appointed
to the role of Vice-President. The 1920s saw the growth of the novelties / vanities side of the business. Sterling
silver and silver plated vanities with wrist straps were manufactured and the demand for these was high.40
40 https://thevintagecompactshop.com/blogs/antique-and-collectible-history/elgin-american-illinois-watchcase-accessories-history
424
425
426
S. KIND & SONS
1110 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia
S. Kind & Co. was founded by Samuel Kind in Philadelphia in 1872 (in business from 1872-1964). Having escaped
war torn Europe as a young immigrant just a decade earlier, he had a vision for a new life that began to take shape
with the opening of his own store. Originally a jewelry and fancy goods company, S. Kind & Co truly came into its
own when Samuel’s son, Frank, joined the house in 1888. Frank’s arrival didn’t just add “And Sons” to the sign
above the door, he also brought his own creative point of view to the family business.41
41 https://skind.nyc/pages/about-s-kind-co-1
427
“S. Kind & Sons catalogue” - 1910
428
“S. Kind & Sons catalogue” - 1910
429
“S. Kind & Sons catalogue” - 1910
430
“S. Kind & Sons catalogue” - 1910
431
“S. Kind & Sons catalogue” - 1910
432
“S. Kind & Sons catalogue” - 1910
433
“S. Kind & Sons catalogue” - 1920
434
“S. Kind & Sons catalogue” - 1920
435
“S. Kind & Sons catalogue” - 1924
436
“S. Kind & Sons catalogue” - 1925
437
“S. Kind & Sons catalogue” - 1925
438
BAIRD-NORTH Co.
290&334 Essex Street, Salem, Massachusetts, later 531, 205&611, Broad Street, Providence, Rhode Island
“Vogue” - 1913-10-15
439
440
J. LYNN & Co.
48 Bond Street, New York
441
“J. Lynn & Co. Illustrated catalogue” - 1913
442
JOHN V. FARWELL & Co.
Chicago
John Villiers Farwell Sr. (July 29, 1825 - August 20, 1908) was an American merchant and philanthropist from
New York City. Moving to Chicago, Illinois, at a young age, he joined Wadsworth & Phelps, eventually rising to be
senior partner at John V. Farwell & Co. He was also a mentor and brief joint partner with Marshall Field, (1834–
1906), in the firm Farwell, Field & Co. from 1862-1865, before Field moved on with other partners to eventually
establish his own famous prototype of the modern department store at Marshall Field and Company.42
42 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_V._Farwell
443
“1919 Jewelry Catalog and Sales Book” by John V. Farwell Company
444
“1919 Jewelry Catalog and Sales Book” by John V. Farwell Company
445
“Jewelry catalogue and counter sales book Number 300” by Marshall Field & Company - 1918-1919
446
“Jewelry catalogue and counter sales book Number 300” by Marshall Field & Company - 1918-1919
447
“Jewelry catalogue and counter sales book Number 300” by Marshall Field & Company - 1918-1919
448
“Jewelry catalogue and counter sales book Number 300” by Marshall Field & Company - 1918-1919
449
“Jewelry catalogue and counter sales book Number 300” by Marshall Field & Company - 1918-1919
450
“Jewelry catalogue and counter sales book Number 300” by Marshall Field & Company - 1918-1919
451
THE SPERRY & HUTCHINSON Co.
2 West 45th Street, New York
452
BONWITT TELLER & Co.
Fifth Avenue at 38th Street, New York
“Vogue” - 1919-11-15
453
“Vogue” - 1920-11-15
454
“Vogue” - 1920-11-15
455
THE WARREN MANSFIELD COMPANY
254 Middle Street, Portland, Maine
456
ONEIDA BREWING COMPANY
Utica, New York
457
H. PORTER
534 Fallowfield Ave., Charleroi, Pennsylvania
458
“Charleroi Mail” - 1915-02-12
459
“Charleroi Mail” - 1915-03-22
460
JOSEPH HORNE Co.
Charleroi, Pennsylvania
461
JOHN WANAMAKER
Philadelphia
462
“The Book News Monthly” - 1914-08
463
“The Book News Monthly” - 1915-05
464
“The Book News Monthly” - 1915-09
465
“The Book News Monthly” - 1916-06
466
GIMBEL BROTHERS
New York - Philadelphia
467
THE SERV-US PURE FOOD COMPANY
New York, N.Y.
468
CHAS. B. ENGEL
217 Lackawanna Avenue, Scranton, Pennsylvania
469
“Annual catalogue” by Chas. B. Engel - 1912
470
CASTAGNETTO & MATTEUCCI
229-233 Columbus Avenue, San Francisco, California
471
“Annual catalogue” by Castagnetto & Matteucci - 1914
472
J.R WOOD & SONS
New York, Chicago, San Francisco
473
“J. R. Wood & Sons catalogue, 73rd year” - 1923
474
“J. R. Wood & Sons catalogue, 73rd year” - 1923
475
“J. R. Wood & Sons catalogue, 73rd year” - 1923
476
“J. R. Wood & Sons catalogue, 73rd year” - 1923
477
“J. R. Wood & Sons catalogue, 73rd year” - 1923
478
“J. R. Wood & Sons catalogue, 73rd year” - 1923
479
S.F. MYERS Co.
51-53 Maiden Lane, Bet. Nassau and Williams Street, New York
S. F. Myers & Co. founded 1863; S. F. Myers Co. incorporated 1896. Manufacturing & wholesale jewelers.
480
“1912 Annual illustrated catalogue”
481
“1912 Annual illustrated catalogue”
482
“1912 Annual illustrated catalogue”
483
JASON WEILER & SONS
Boston, Mass.
484
“Jason Weiler & Sons 49th Annual Catalogue” - 1924
485
“Jason Weiler & Sons 49th Annual Catalogue” - 1924
486
“Jason Weiler & Sons 49th Annual Catalogue” - 1924
487
E.E. DAIL
136 North Brand Boulevard, Glendale, California
S.C. POWELL
51 Maiden Lane, New York
488
THE JAMES E. BLAKE Co.
Attleboro, Mass.; 37-39 Maiden Lane, New York
489
“The Keystone” - vol. 28, no. 4 - April 1907
490
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1913-04-23
491
492
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1913-10-01
493
494
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1914-04-22
495
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1914-07-01
496
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1914-11-18
497
M. SICKLES & SONS
726 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, PA.
498
FREDERIC’S
905 Broadway, Cor. 20thStreet, 403 Fifth Avenue, New York
“Vogue” - 1903-03-19
499
WATROUS Mfg. Co.
Wallingford, Conn.
The business known as the Watrous Mfg. Co. when it was incorporated in 1896 had been started many years
before as Maltby, Stevens & Company. The company’s principal product was German Silver spoon blanks, which
were sold to others to be plated and trademarked for the market. The bulk of the production was sold to the Wm.
Rogers Mfg. Co. in Hartford. After 1898, [Watrous Mfg. Co. became part of the International Silver Company, and]
the company added smaller articles and novelties to their lines which were made in Sterling Silver and distrib-
uted through regular trade channels. In 1938 production of many of the articles produced there was transferred
to Simpson, Hall, Miller & Co., but still used the Watrous trademark. It was a popular brand for many years.43
An example of a silver vanity case by “Watrous Mfg. Co.”, 1913, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
43 “An American heritage: A book about the International Silver Company” by Edmund P. Hogan, 1977, pp. 164-65.
500
501
“Vogue” - 1923-05-01
502
D. LISNER & Co.
1-45th Avenue, cor. 19th Street, New York
1921
503
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1921-07-27
504
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1921-04-27
505
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1921-10-26
506
EVANS CASE Co.
North Attleboro, Mass.
“The Evans Case Company of North Attleboro, MA was a huge concern making accessories in America. Manufac-
turing between 1920 and 1960. Colonel Obed Robinson who was a skilled blacksmith & clock maker began a
jewellery / jewelry business in Attleboro in 1807. The 1812 war meant that soldiers needed buttons & so pro-
duction was changed to suit this purpose. The Colonel & his son, Otis, are credited with starting America’s first
button making concern. As you can imagine, button making was a very necessary business, their firm became a
huge thriving business, and the area was at one time named Robinsonville.
In 1848, Daniel Evans purchased the business then known as R & W Robinson. It was still a button making com-
pany & Mr. Evans renamed the company D. Evans & Co. His son Edwin followed him into business, however many
other companies were also producing buttons & demand for the firm’s wares declined. The company needed to
produce other items to remain viable & this it did. A ‘Novelty Department’ creating picture frames & neck chains
for American soldier’s dog tags was set up. Alfred Reilly was hired by the company to run this new department.”44
44 https://thevintagecompactshop.com/blogs/antique-and-collectible-history/the-history-of-evans-case-company
507
“Vogue” - 1927-12-01
508
An example of a vanity case by “Evans Case Co.”, 1927:
509
An example of a mesh bag by “Evans Case Co.”, c. 1920s, from the private collection of J. Michelle Moore:
510
H.H CURTIS Co.
North Attleboro, Mass.
“H. H. Curtis & Co. Henry H. Curtis and George H. Coggsill are the partners in this firm, and they organized in May,
1883, and located where they now are, in the Company's building at North Attleborough. They began with twenty
hands, have now about thirty-five, and when business is brisk, their orders require about sixty-five. They have a
specialty of sleeve-buttons for ladies & gentlemen, in rolled plate. There have been no changes in this firm and it
has no out-of-town office. [Now in E. I. Richards’ building].”45
“Samuel Goodison, foreman for H. H. Curtis & Co., resigned last week to take a position with a Montreal jewelry
house and was succeeded by Andrew Neuscheuz.”46
“The H. H. Curtis Co. is having a great success with its 20th Century patent bag, in which the lining can be readily
replaced without disturbing the silver “coat of mail.” The firm’s salesmen are on the road.”47
“Among the advertisements noticed in the Chronicle last week for help were: Bench hands, Paye & Baker Mfg. Co.;
girls to make chains, H. F. Barrows Co.; girls to make mesh bags, R. Blackinton & Co.; stone setter, J. F. Sturdy Sons
Co.; press hands, Webster & Co.; girls to hitch mesh bags to frames, H. H. Curtis & Co.”48
Examples of German silver mesh bags by “H. H. Curtis & Co.”, c. 1910s:
45 “A sketch of the history of Attleborough, from its settlement to the division” - 1894
46 “The Jewelers' Circular” - 1901-05-22
47 “The Jewelers' Circular” - 1902-09-24
48 “The Jeweler's Circular” - 1910-06-29
511
GEORGE N. STEERE & Co.
Pawtuxet, R. I
“George N. Steere & Co. is a new manufacturing concern recently organized at Pawtuxet, R. I, for the purpose of
manufacturing their patent hold-fast comb which they will make their specialty. Two of the members of this firm
are well known in the Chicago market; George N. Steere, the head of the firm was formerly manager of the chain
house of Geo. L. Brown & Co., of Attleboro, and Frank T. Barton is the Chicago and Western representative of the
Fontneau & Cook Company, Attleboro.”49
“The business was started as the George N. Steere Co. about five years ago by George N. Steere, Thomas U. Catlow,
Joseph Catlow and Frank T. Barton, all of whom had had more or less practical experience in the jewelry business.
About 18 months ago, there was a dissolution, Mr. Steere withdrawing, and the firm name was changed to the
Catlow-Barton Co.”50
513
MANCHESTER-SMITH COMPANY
183-185 Eddy Street, Providence, R. I.
514
SPEAR & SUSSKIND
21 Eddy Street, Providence, R.I.
515
WOOD & HUGHES
24 John Street, New York
Jacob Wood and Joseph Hughes, both once associated with the New York silver firm of William Gale, Sr., formed
their own partnership in 1845. For a time, Wood and Hughes were on of the country’s largest producers of silver.
Like many contemporary firms that sold goods through southern retailers, they suffered during the Civil War,
but rebounded afterward. Wood and Hughes suffered a disastrous fire in 1891 and by 1899 sought to sell out to
Graff, Washbourne and Dunn.51
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1900-12-19 The trade marks of “Wood & Hughes”52
An example of a silver card case by “Wood & Hughes”, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
51 https://emuseum.mfah.org/people/8701/wood--hughes/objects
52 https://www.925-1000.com/ax_W&H.html
516
ZIRUTH & MOORE
60-62 Arlington Street, Newark, New Jersey
1897
517
M. RICH & BROS. Co.
Atlanta
518
“The Los Angeles Times” - 1905-12-29
519
FRENKLEY & KOERBER
816 Calhoun St., Fort Wayne, Indiana
LIMA-FISK, Inc.
230 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass.
520
M.S. PAGE & Co.
Boston
1915
521
HIRSCH, BLOCH & Co.
125&127 Sansome Street, San Francisco
522
FROHMAN & Co.
51 East Fourth Street, Cincinnati
1911
523
L.W. LEVY & Co.
590 Broadway, New York
524
THE NEWARK PURSE FRAME Mfg. Co.
43 Lawrence Street, later 548-556 South Eleventh Street, Newark, New Jersey
1916
“The Newark Purse Frame Manufacturing Company have moved from 43 Lawrence Street to 548 South Elev-
enth Street, to their own building. They have enlarged their facilities, and output. They make an initial purse
frame silver plate.”53
526
THE FRANK T. MAY Co.
31 East 17th Street, Union Square, New York
1910
BLOOMINGDALE BROS.
New York
1915
J.N. PROVENZANO
114 East 14th Street, New York
527
DURAND & Co.
49-51 Franklin Street, Newark, New Jersey
1909
L. BERGER
103 Goerck Street, New York
1922
528
GOLDSMITH-KOCH Co.
103-109 Oliver St., Newark, New Jersey
“Goldsmith-Koch Co. Sue W. J. Bailey for Alleged Infringement of Patent. Newark, N. J., Oct. 15.—The Goldsmith-
Koch Co., manufacturers of silver novelties at 109 Oliver St., has brought an action in the United States Circuit
Court at Trenton, against William J. Bailey, of this city, alleging an infringement of a patent covering certain new
and useful improvements in silversmiths’ stock for mesh bags, protected by letters patent No. 837,219. The usual
accounting, damages and injunctions are demanded. The bill of complaint sets forth that Marcus T. Goldsmith is
the original and sole inventor of certain improvements in silversmiths’ stock for making mesh bags. Mr. Gold-
smith transferred to Carrie K. Goldsmith his rights in the patent on Nov15, 1907, and she in turn transferred her
rights in the patent to the complainant concern in the case on June 12, 1909. It is alleged that the defendant used
the invention in question in the manufacture of mesh bags, and sold the stock from which the mesh bags are
made in disregard of the complainant concern’s patent rights and after due notification of the alleged infringe-
ment. The court is asked to enjoin the defendant from infringing the patent and compel him to pay the profits
unlawfully obtained by reason of the alleged infringement, and also to pay the costs of the suit and grant the
complainant concern such other relief as the court shall find agreeable to equity. George Cook is the attorney for
the complainant concern. No answer has as yet been filed.”54
“The Goldsmith-Koch Company have given up the manufacture of mesh bag link for the trade and are now making
the complete patented sterling and German silver mesh bag. They have taken two buildings in the rear of 105
Oliver Street; have much larger space and better facilities.”55
“The Goldsmith-Koch Company, making sterling and German silver mesh bags, have been in bankruptcy. The
shop has been closed, except for a time it was run by the receiver. Walker E. Smith, who was with Frank Kursh &
Son Company, has been the new superintendent. A settlement of 50 cents on the dollar is being made, and the
plant will continue business, with some new blood in the firm.”56
529
JOHN ROBBINS
129 Geary Street, San Francisco
THEODORE SCHISGAL
116-118 Chambers Street, New York
530
JOHN HANCHER
N. 5th St., Reading, Pa
“John Hancher, a Swiss watchmaker and jeweler, has engaged in the manufacturing of mesh bags on N. 5th St.,
Reading, Pa. The bags will be hand-made.”57
“The Jennings Silver Co. of Irvington, N. J., has been reorganized and the following officers elected: President Cyril
Johnson of Stafford Springs. Conn.; vice-president Henry Schuerin; secretary, treasurer, and general manager,
Silas Schuerin. About 40 hands are now employed. Silver mesh bags will shortly be a new product of the com-
pany.”58
“Stevens & Leithoff, late of Arlington Street, have built a new factory for themselves at Cottage and Grace Street,
Irvington, near this city. New machinery was put in and the force was doubled. They used to make lorgnettes,
vanity bags and match safes of gold and silver, but are now making a new line of gold and silver mesh bags. They
are in the new building.”59
“Schmitz, Moore & Co., Newark, N. J., makers of German silver mesh bags, sterling silver toilet and manicure sets
and novelties, are working evenings owing to the volume of business they have on hand.”60
“The Rosenbaird Manufacturing Company have given up the manufacture of novelties and now make only brass,
German silver, silver and gold mesh bag frames.”61
“The Leedin Novelty Company, making metal novelties, have a much improved factory since they moved to
Boyden place. The factory is larger, better equipped, more machinery and turn out considerably more work. Their
output will be doubled this year. The firm has also taken up the making of German silver mesh bags.”62
“Turton Brothers, proprietors of the Leedin Novelty Company, making silver-plated toilet goods and mesh bags,
have changed the name to the Leedin Silver Company.”63
The Leedin Silver Co. are recorded in Fogerty's Directory of the Jewelry and Kindred Trades in the USA - 1917.
531
LOS ANGELES MESH BAG Co.
Los Angeles
“Harry N. Dormer, better known as "English Harry", a mesh bag expert, has returned from an extended trip from
London, England, which has taken up 11 months, to visit his parents whom he had not seen for 20 years. He sailed
on the Lochgoil last July 21 via the Panama Canal, being a 30 days' cruise, and returned May 28 on the Olympic
to New York, staying two days at Philadelphia, Pa., and visiting the Capital and New Orleans on the trip back. He
arrived in England 20 years to the very hour from the time he left. He is proprietor of the Los Angeles Mesh Bag
Co., and is in business with A. K. Curtiss, jeweler, 711 W. 6th St., of this city.”64
“The Holbrook Mfg. Co., of Attleboro, Mass., have commenced the manufacture of silver plated mesh bags.”65
“The James E. Blake Company, of Attleboro, have sold the German silver bag department of its business to the
Holbrook Manufacturing Company. The sale includes dies and tools and also goods in process of manufacture at
the Blake establishment.”66
“The Holbrook Mfg. Co. was formed about 1905, and incorporated under Massachusetts laws in 1908. The con-
cern originally was a manufacturer of tools and novelties and for a while, the principal product was vending
machines for selling collar buttons, which were made for a local manufacturer. The concern has discontinued
that line and is now making mesh bags and vanity cases principally. Harry B. Holbrook is president and Charles
L. Holbrook, treasurer and clerk. The directors are H. J. Leland. A. J. Brandeth and Louis E. Flye.”67
“Frank D. White, formerly with the Sanderson Mfg. Co., has started manufacturing mesh bags and other special-
ties at 93 Sabin St. under the firm style of the White Mfg. Co.”68
CHARLES W. PARK
97 Oliver Street, Newark, New Jersey
“Charles W. Park, who recently opened a silver goods factory at 97 Oliver Street, making a specialty of German
silver mesh bags, has his lines ready, and salesmen will soon go out on the road.”69
“The Strathmore Co., manufacturers of diamond mesh bags, collarettes, etc., has decided to retain its office at 55
Eddy St., this city, although the manufacturing will be done at its factory, 478 Pawtucket Ave., where the company
has ample facilities.”70
BERTRAM E. CLARK
109 Oliver Street, Newark, New Jersey
“Bertram E. Clark, late of 51 Maiden Lane, New York City, opened a plant at 109 Oliver Street. He makes 14-karat
gold and platinum chains, sterling silver mesh bags and novelties.”71
532
THE ROYAL SILVER Mfg. Co.
46 Oliver Street, Newark, New Jersey
“The Royal Silver Mfg. Co. has been incorporated in Newark, N. J., with a capital of $30,000 to manufacture sil-
ver novelties.”72
“The Royal Silver Mfg. Co. is just starting the manufacture of mesh bags and silver novelties at 46 Oliver St. This
new concern is the successor to the firm of Goldsmith & Udell. Mr. Udell was formerly with the Jennings Silver
Co., of Irvington.”73
“The Royal Silver Mfg. Co., has started in the manufacture of sterling-silver novelties and sterling-silver mesh
bags at 46 Oliver St., Newark, N. J. W. T. Goldsmith is president of the company and R. Udell, secretary and treas-
urer.”74
ALFRED SANDAZ
56 Stratford Street, later 97 Chestnut Street, Newark, New Jersey
“Alfred Sandaz has much improved his facilities and output of gold and silver chain, mesh bags, vanity cases and
novelties since moving from 56 Stratford Street to 97 Chestnut Street.”75
CHARLES HAHN
520 Eighteenth Avenue, later 20 Mercer Street, Newark, New Jersey
“Charles Hahn moved his factory from 520 Eighteenth avenue to 20 Mercer Street, making ten to fourteen-karat
gold and platinum chains. He also expects to enlarge the factory and has also taken up the manufacture of silver
and German silver mesh bags. Salesmen will be put out and a lively business is looked for.”76
“A charter has been granted to the Genser Mfg. Co., Inc., of this city, under the laws of Rhode Island, with a capital
stock of $25,000, consisting of 250 shares of common stock of a par value of $100 each. The firm will manufacture
a line of sterling silver jewelry and novelties at 113 Point Street. The incorporators are David Genser, Max Genser
and Morris Chusmir, all of whom are interested in the C. & G. Mfg. Co., of this city. The business has been organized
under the charter with David Genser as president; Max Genser, secretary, and Mortis Chusmir, treasurer.”77
“David Genser, president of the Genser Mfg. Co., jewelry manufacturers, 114 Point St., complained to the police
last Monday that his concern had been swindled out of $45 by a woman who had drawn that amount in pay due
a home worker in the employ of the company. The Genser Co. employs a number of women and girls at home to
make mesh bags, and they appear occasionally at the office and draw their pay. A woman, who was unknown to
the bookkeeper, appeared last week Saturday noon and asked for the amount due a Mrs. Di Mauto. The envelope
was given to her and the deception was not discovered until Monday morning when Mrs. Di Mauto sent her
daughter to the office to get the money, and the mistake was noted. The police are making an investigation.”78
533
UNKNOWN
USA?
An example of a silver mesh purse by an unidentified maker, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
An example of a Dresden mesh bag by an unidentified maker, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
534
An example of a Gunmetal mesh bag by an unidentified maker:
535
Canadian mesh bag industry
Birks was by far the largest and most influential silverware manufacturer in Canada during the 20th century.
Henry Birks & Company was established in Montreal in 1879 as a retail jeweller. In 1893 Henry Birks’ three sons
joined the business and the name was changed to Henry Birks & Sons. In 1897 Birks bought out Hendery & Leslie,
their largest supplier of silverware, and began manufacturing their own products. Over the next 50 years, Birks
expanded by buying up established jewellers across the country. They also took over their rivals in manufactur-
ing until they had a virtual monopoly on the production and sale of sterling silverware in Canada.79
80
79 https://justinteeantiques.com/pages/canadian-silversmiths-of-the-20th-century-and-their-marks
80 https://www.silvercollection.it/CANADASILVERSMITHSB.html
536
537
“Henry Birks & Sons Year Book” - 1911
538
“Henry Birks & Sons Year Book” - 1911
539
T. EATON & Co.
190 Yonge Street, Toronto, Ontario, Canada
The T. Eaton Company Limited, later known as Eaton's and then Eaton, was a Canadian department store chain
that was once the largest in the country. It was founded in 1869 in Toronto by Timothy Eaton, an immigrant from
what is now Northern Ireland. Eaton's grew to become a retail and social institution in Canada, with stores across
the country, buying-offices around the globe, and a mail-order catalog that was found in the homes of most Ca-
nadians. A changing economic and retail environment in the late twentieth century, along with mismanagement,
culminated in the chain's bankruptcy in 1999.81
81 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eaton%27s
540
541
542
“Eaton's Spring and Summer Catalogue” - 1916
543
“Eaton's Spring and Summer Catalogue” - 1917
544
“Eaton's Spring and Summer Catalogue” - 1917
545
“Eaton's Fall and Winter Catalogue” - 1920-1921
546
THE UNITED WATCH & JEWELRY Co.
Toronto, Canada
1911
547
P.W. ELLIS & Co.
31-37 Wellington Street East, 40-46 Front Street East, Toronto, Canada
“P.W. Ellis & Co. Limited, the jewellery headquarters of Canada, 1915-1916 illustrated catalogue: importing and
manufacturing, gold and silversmiths, makers of Ellis watch cases”
548
“P.W. Ellis & Co. Limited, the jewellery headquarters of Canada, 1915-1916 illustrated catalogue: importing and
manufacturing, gold and silversmiths, makers of Ellis watch cases”
549
BROWN BROS.
51 Wellington Street West, Toronto, Canada
550
BORRELLI & VITELLI
36 Toronto St., Toronto, Canada
551
J. ABELES
233 to 239 Bleury Street, Montreal, Canada
552
GREENSHIELD Limited
17 Victoria Square, Montreal, Canada
“Style” – 1918
553
CARL AUSTIN & COMPANY
357 College Street, Toronto, Canada
“Style” - 1916
“Style” - 1920
554
French mesh bag industry
555
“Bijoux fix: or doublé inalterable” - 1911
556
“Bijoux fix: or doublé inalterable” - 1911
557
“Bijoux fix: or doublé inalterable” - 1911
558
“Bijoux fix: or doublé inalterable” - 1911
559
“Bijoux fix: or doublé inalterable” - 1913
560
“Bijoux fix: or doublé inalterable” - 1913
561
“Bijoux fix: or doublé inalterable” - 1913
562
“Bijoux fix: or doublé inalterable” - 1913
563
“Bijoux fix: or doublé inalterable” - 1913
564
“Bijoux fix: or doublé inalterable” - 1913
565
“Bijoux fix: or doublé inalterable” - 1913
566
LACLOCHE FRÈRES
Rue de la Paix, Paris, France
Exploring the history of the jewelry firm owned by the Lacloche family, attempts are made to contain the com-
pany within one entity - Lacloche Frères. In fact, there were several companies in which the Lacloches had in-
volvement and many locations where there were branches of these entities. The patriarch, Hendricks Lacloche,
and his wife raised a family comprised of six children, four boys and two girls all of whom were destined to enter
the jewelry trade in one way or another. Circa 1892, two of the brothers, Jules and Léopold, headed for Paris and
opened Lacloche Frères while Jacques and Fernand set sail for the New World seeking fame and fortune. Upon
their return to Europe, Jacques and Fernand opened a new entity, Lacloche et Cie, in Madrid selling jewelry cre-
ated in Paris and quickly developed a loyal following among the Spanish aristocracy. Soon, the Lacloche brothers
are bedecking the crowned heads of Europe in some of the finest jewels of the day. Among their clientele are
Queen Alexandra, His Majesty George I, King of Greece, Napoleon III and empress Eugénie, and Alfonso XII of
Spain, his mother and his wife to name a few.
Cleverly “following the money” Lacloche et Cie opened shops in the French seaside playground of the rich and
famous – Biarritz and another in the upscale resort area known as San Sebastian, Spain. Bertha Lacloche marries
Jacob Jacques Walewyk and Walewyk-Lacloche shops specializing in bridal baskets and hosiery appear alongside
Lacloche & Cie in these seaside enclaves. Meanwhile, Léopold and Jules collaborate with Louis Gompers (La-
cloche-Gompers) in a shop on the rue de l’Opéra in Paris later moving it to the prestigious Place Vendôme. Fol-
lowing suit with their brothers, they also establish shops in the thermal spa town of Aix-les-Bains, the Principality
of Monaco, the French Riviera town of Nice, the seaside town of Trouville, and Ostend Belgium, again by the sea.
They have seemingly covered all of the desirable destinations for the well-heeled at the fin de siècle.
In 1919 Jacques Jr. joins the firm first in Paris and then later moves to London to run the branch. A few years
later, Fernand’s Sons, Henri and Jacques (another Jacques), open an office on Fifth Avenue in New York City. From
their Fifth Avenue office, they were able to make inroads into Hollywood and were soon draping the movie
queens in their fabulous creations. Continuing to stay abreast of the activities of the rich, Lacloche Frères opens
in Deauville for the summer season in 1923 and several more years to come. The following year Cannes gets a
prestigious branch of the firm. Eventually, Fernand is the last of the Lacloche brothers, Leopold is dead and Fer-
nand purchases Jules remaining shares. His sons, Henri and Jacques, while working for the company, were en-
joying the high life. They were all serious gamblers and by 1930 had accumulated so much debt it caused the
business to fail. As all good things must come to an end so too did Lacloche Frères in 1931. Fernand died shortly
thereafter.82
82 https://www.langantiques.com/university/lacloche-freres/
567
Examples of gold mesh bags by “Lacloche Frères”:
568
“Lacloche joailliers” by Laurence Mouillefarine and Véronique Ristelhueber
569
MAISON ANGENOT - ROLLANG & GANGNEREAU
58 Rue Charlot, Paris, France
Rollang & Gangnereau established in 1868, registered their mark 'R.et.G.' with a pigeon on the 30th March 1911.
The mark was deleted on the 8th December 1925.
1924
An example of a silver framed bag by “Rollang & Gangnereau”, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
570
The trade mark of “Rollang & Gangnereau”
SAM JANCOVICI
16 Rue André del Sarte, Paris, France
Established in 1905.
1924
1927
571
LAP
8 Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle & 97 Rue Pelleport, Paris, France
1927
572
ALPHONSE DEBAIN
Paris, France
Alphonse Debain was a French silversmith, originating from a family of hereditary silver and gold makers. He
produced exquisite tea sets and tableware of the finest quality.
The first Debain hallmark was registered by Debain’s grandfather, François-Alphonse Debain in 1847 who was
active until 1867 and produced mainly tea sets, candlesticks and snuff boxes.
Alphonse Debain’s father, Alphonse-Édouard continued the family business. In 1864, he registered a firm, called
“Debain & Flamant” in cooperation with a prominent silver maker Louis-Frédéric Flamant. In 1883, Alphonse
Debain succeeded his father and grandfather. He established a registered partnership with a goldsmith Philippe
Berthier. Both under the firm’s and his own mark he manufactured splendid items of precious metals, that are
still used and appreciated all over the world.83
An example of a silver mesh bag by “Alphonse Debain”, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
83 https://www.pushkinantiques.com/alphonse-debain
573
c. 1900s
574
ALEXANDRE VAGUER
Paris, France
Alexandre Vaguer was a famous silver and goldsmith in Paris from 1886 to 1920.
575
576
HÉNIN & CIE
77 rue des Archives, Paris, France
The great 19th century Parisian goldsmiths Henin & Cie were located at the heart of the historic city of Paris in
the Marais, which was the noted jewellery quarter. Here the nobility would go to buy luxurious jewellery and
items made from high grade silver and gold. The pride of workmanship in gold & silver in evident in surviving
works by “Henin et Cie”. It was a natural progression that these astonishing jewellers would succeed in being
appointed as the suppliers of the king and his court.
Thomas & Hénin were situated at 77 rue des Archives. Their hallmark "a rosebud, TH letters and a star" was
registered at the assay office 4th October 1861. On 16th August 1865 the firm became Hénin Frères and were
situated at the same address. Hénin & Fils record their new hallmark, "a button above and a star below the HFS
letters" on the 13th August, 1872. In 1875 the firm became known as Hénin & Cie and continued to operate until
1891. The maker's mark "a rosebud, the letters H & Cie and a star" was entered on 11 th May 1875. The association
of Vivier and Hénin started with the registration on 3rd July 1891. The maker's mark "a rosebud, the letters HV
and a star". 7th August 1896. Hénin & Vivier in association with the silversmiths Apollo. Apollo was a firm of
cutlery makers and goldsmiths, established in 1796. They were located at 31 Rue Pastourelle, Paris. In 1896
Hénin once again were known as Hénin et Cie.84
An example of a silver coin purse by “Henin & Cie”, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
84 https://www.koopman.art/artistdetail/243124/henin-and-cie
577
MOCHE & CIE
46 Rue Poissonnière, Paris, France
The trade mark of “Moche & Cie” consists of the inscription “J.M. & Cie”
above the image of a skein of silk (a “Moche” in French):
578
An example of a silver coin purse by “Moche & Cie”, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
579
ANGENOT FRÈRES
Paris, France
1912
An example of a silver mesh bag by “Angenot Frères”, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
580
DAVID FEINSTEIN
France
An example of a silver mesh bag by “David Feinstein”, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
581
LEKUBE
France
582
Another example of a silver mesh bag by “LEKUBE”, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
583
UNKNOWN
France
An example of a mesh bag by a yet to be identified French maker, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
584
UNKNOWN
France
85
Silver items from French treaty countries were struck with the weevil in a rectangle mark, used 1893-1984. Fine-
ness minimum .800. Treaty countries are those countries with which France had signed commercial customs
treaties. The primary basis of the customs treaty is the agreement that any duty paid on the importation of a
precious metal item would be refunded to the exporter if the item was subsequently re-exported.86
Examples of silver mesh bags by yet to be identified makers, imported into France from treaty countries.
From the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
85 https://www.silvercollection.it/frenchhallmarks.html
86 https://www.925-1000.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=31287
585
Examples of coin purses by yet to be identified makers, imported into France from treaty countries.
From the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
586
An example of a Gunmetal mesh bag by an unknown French maker:
587
UNKNOWN
France?
An example of a silver mesh bag by a yet to be identified maker, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
588
German mesh bag industry
1904
589
H. MEYERHEIM & SOHN
Leipziger Strasse 33, and Adalbert Strasse 40, Berlin, Germany
Established in 1868.
1902 1903
1904
590
RAUSCHER & Co.
Kronprinzenstrasse 8, Pforzheim, Germany
1907
ALBERT ROSENHAIN
Leipzigerstrasse 73-74, Berlin, Germany
1903
591
LUTZ & WEISS GmbH
Pforzheim, Germany
An example of a chatelaine mesh bag by “Lutz & Weiss GmbH”, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
592
BIHLMEYER & Co.
Schwäbisch Gmünd, Germany
87
An example of a silver mesh bag by “Bihlmeyer & Co.”, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
87 https://www.silvercollection.it/GERMANMAKERSB.html
593
WESSEL & MÜLLER
Luckenwalde, Brandenburg, Germany
Wessel & Müller was a company based in the town of Luckenwalde in Brandenburg, Germany, that was in busi-
ness in the late 19th - early 20th century. They specialized in making silver frames and clasps for bags and purses.
88
88 https://www.silvercollection.it/GERMANMAKERSX.html
594
Another example of a silver mesh bag by “Wessel & Müller”:
595
RODI & WIENENBERGER
Pforzheim, Germany
The history of ROWI, or Rodi & Wienenberger jewelry began in Pforzheim, Germany, in 1885, when Eugen Rodi
and Wilhelm Wienenberger founded their company. Initially, it was a small workshop with a staff of four to make
medallions, bracelets and brooches. The company flourished in 1890, employing 80 people, and by the end of
1899 employed about 700 people. Five years later, it was a joint stock company with a capital of 500,000 marks.
Eugene Rodi retired in 1900, and Wienenberger became the head of the company. In 1910, they built a new five-
story factory. After the World War I, the production premises had to be expanded again by buying neighboring
plots of land. In addition to jewelry, they began manufacturing pocket watch cases. In 1924, Wilhelm resigned
from the management due to his health problems and Karl-Wilhelm Katz, who was responsible for export, took
over the business.89
89 https://nasvete.com/rodi-wienenberger-vintage-costume-jewelry/
596
UNKNOWN
Germany
90
An example of a mesh bag by a yet to be identified German maker, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
90 https://www.silvercollection.it/GERMANMAKERSD.html
597
UNKNOWN
Germany
598
Another example of a sterling silver mesh bag by an unidentified German maker, imported into Larchmont,
New York, c. 1910-1918. From the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
599
UNKNOWN
Germany?
Examples of mesh bags by unidentified makers, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
600
601
Spanish mesh bag industry
1908
“Silver mesh bags and purses are now very extensively used, not only as a fancy article but also on account of
their great convenience for ladies and gentlemen. For this reason the attention of merchants is directed to the
products if the firm of Juan Gomila Riudavets. One of the purses made by this concern is shown in the accompa-
nying engraving. These bags and purses are highly appreciated, owing to their solid, elegant and careful manu-
facture, making them highly artistic pieces of jewelry. They are produced in many different styles, such as Louis
XIV, Louis XV, Pompadour, Imperial, Gothic and Modern, thus satisfying the taste of every buyer.
Inquiries and orders are invited from established merchants or responsible commission houses, to whom special
prices and terms are given, allowing them to resell the goods with large profit in their own market. All corre-
spondence on the subject should be addressed to Juan Gomila Riudavets, Mahon, Balearic Islands, Spain.”91
1920
MAX HOLL
Palma de Mallorca
1922
603
GUILLERMO CODA
Rambla de Cataluna, 70, Barcelona; San Manuel, Mahon, Minorca
1918
604
“During the year 1917 there was introduced in the principal markets of the world, and especially in South Amer-
ica and the island of Cuba, a large number of new models of gold and silver mesh bags and purses, very attractive
in appearance and of very fine mesh. These novelties received much attention because of their originality in de-
sign and perfect finish. The makers state that the buyers of these goods expressed themselves as highly satisfied
with them and that numerous letters to this effect have been addressed to the factory.
The firm conducts its correspondence in English, French and Spanish, and catalogues and price lists showing its
novelties will be sent free to any importer or merchant asking for them. Correspondence should be addressed
to G. Coda, Jewelry and silver goods manufacturer, Mahon, Balearic Islands, Spain.”92
The Coda concern has a well-equipped export department with all the necessary facil-
ities for making shipments to every part of the world by the cheapest and quickest
routes. Goods are carefully packed and insured against all risks. Its representatives
constantly are travelling throughout South America, showing one of the most com-
plete and varied assortments of samples ever seen in that part of the world. Though
the most modern machinery and equipment is used in their manufacture, it is claimed that neither quality of
workmanship nor beauty of design is sacrificed in the production of “Coda” products. Close examination of the
gold cigarette case and chain mesh bag illustrated on this page would seem to justify that claim.93
An example of a silver mesh bag by “Coda”, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
1921
OSCAR BRIAN
Barcelona, Spain
This appears to be the business of Gerardo Wolters, Rambla Santa Bonita 2, Barcelona, by 1918.
1911
608
British mesh bag industry
H. WILLIAMSON Ltd.
Farrington Road, Great Saffron Hill, London, UK
An example of a silver mesh bag imported into Great Britain via the London Assay Office in 1913, the sponsor
being “H. Williamson Ltd.”:
1913
1920
'VICTORY'
609
HARRODS Ltd.
Brompton Road, London, UK
1911
610
“Harrods For Everything” - 1912-01
611
“Harrods For Everything” - 1912-01
612
1914
613
THE GOLDSMITHS & SILVERSMITHS COMPANY Ltd.
112 Regent Street, London, UK
614
“The Goldsmiths & Silversmiths Company, Ltd. Catalogue” - 1928
615
“The Goldsmiths & Silversmiths Company, Ltd. Catalogue” - 1928
616
“The Goldsmiths & Silversmiths Company, Ltd. Catalogue” - 1928
617
“The Goldsmiths & Silversmiths Company, Ltd. Catalogue” - 1928
618
“The Goldsmiths & Silversmiths Company, Ltd. Catalogue” - 1928
619
“The Tatler” - 1925
620
AM&M Ltd.
London, UK
94
A sterling silver mesh bag by “AM&M Ltd.”, 1925, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
94 https://www.silvermakersmarks.co.uk/Makers/London-AK-AQ.html#AM
621
THOMAS WILLIAM LACK
Hatton Garden, London, UK
95
An example of a silver mesh bag imported into Great Britain via the London Assay Office in 1925,
the sponsor being “Thomas William Lack”:
95 https://www.silvermakersmarks.co.uk/Makers/London-TS-TZ.html#TW
622
PAUL ETTLINGER
4 Holborn Circus, later 176 Regent Street, London, UK
An example of a 9ct mesh purse imported by “Paul Ettlinger”. Assayed at the London Assay Office in 1913:
Paul Ettlinger entered his marks 'PE' contained within an oblong punch, with the London Assay Office on the 15 th
March 1900, and on the 30th April 1904. Paul Ettlinger is doubtlessly to identified with Joseph Ettlinger, who
entered a mark with the Chester Assay Office from the 176, Regent Street address, and also used the services of
the London Assay Office as 'Triefus & Ettlinger'.
623
“From 1842 it was illegal to sell imported gold or silver in Great Britain until it had been presented
to be tested (assayed) at a British Assay Office. In 1867 the Foreign Mark was added.
The fully hallmarked 9 carat gold pocket case shown above was most probably crafted in France and
since Paul Ettlinger applied to patent this design two years prior to its assaying in London, it is likely
that it was crafted by the Ettlinger’s Parisian partners (Triefus & Ettlinger of 103 rue du Temple, Paris), as this
design was protected by his patent. On importation into Great
Britain, the sponsor, Paul Ettlinger, presented this vanity to be
assayed at London. During its assaying the original hallmarks
were obliterated, which was customary practice. The new marks were struck in 1904.”96
96 https://thevintagecompactshop.com/blogs/antique-and-collectible-history/paul-ettlinger-goldsmith-jeweller
624
ELBIEF Co. Ltd.
159 Warstone Lane, Birmingham, UK
1946
ROBERT CAWLEY
The High Cross, Chester, UK
An example of a mesh bag by an unknown maker imported into England via the Chester Assay Office and as-
sayed in 1926. The sponsor being “Robert Cawley”:
EGB
Birmingham, UK
An example of a silver mesh bag imported into Great Britain via the Birmingham Assay Office in 1908, by the
yet to be identified sponsor “E.G.B.”:
625
STEINHART & Co.
Newhall Street, Birmingham
97
An example of a sterling silver mesh bag imported into Great Britain via the Birmingham Assay Office in 1911,
the sponsor being “Steinhart & Co.”, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
97 https://www.silvermakersmarks.co.uk/Makers/Birmingham-SA-SA.html
626
FRANK WILLIAM COLE
Vyse Street, Birmingham, later Chester
98
An example of a sterling silver mesh bag by “F. W. Cole”, 1915, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
98 https://www.silvermakersmarks.co.uk/Makers/Chester-F.html
627
COHEN & CHARLES
London, UK
99
An example of a sterling silver mesh bag imported into Great Britain via the London Assay Office in 1926, the
sponsor being “Cohen & Charles”, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
99 https://www.silvermakersmarks.co.uk/Makers/Chester-C.html
628
ERICH KELLERMAN
London, UK
100
An example of a mesh bag imported into Great Britain via the London Assay Office in 1911, the sponsor being
“Erich Kellerman” (a spring hook by “John Thompson & Sons”). From the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
Another example of a mesh bag imported into Great Britain via the London Assay Office in 1909,
the sponsor being “Erich Kellerman”:
100 https://www.silvermakersmarks.co.uk/Makers/London-EI-EM.html#EK
629
GOURDEL, VALES & Co.
6 & 7 Old Change, later 57 Great Marlborough Street, London, UK
Constant Valès at 161 Rue St Martin, Paris, started this business in France in 1827. They were exhibitors at the
Great Exhibition of 1851 and the International Exhibition of 1862. A London branch was established in 1857
under the style of Gourdel, Valès & Co. importing gold and silver jewelry, mostly from France and Austria.101
102
An example of a mesh bag imported into Great Britain via the London Assay Office in 1911,
the sponsor being “Gourdel, Vales & Co.”:
101 https://www.925-1000.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21823
102 https://www.silvermakersmarks.co.uk/Makers/Birmingham-GS-GZ.html#GV
630
1903
631
CHARLES S. GREEN & Co.
Birmingham, UK
Business established in 1905 by Charles Stevenson Green, son and brother of the managers of Charles Green &
Son. His wife Winifred, a talented artist who designed the entire firm’s early patterns, assisted him in the busi-
ness. The firm moved in 1907 to Cogent Works, 54 St. Paul's Square, and in 1982 to a new factory at Lionel Street,
Birmingham.103
An example of a silver mesh bag by “Charles S. Green & Co.”, 1914:
103 https://www.silvercollection.it/englishsilvermarksXCSSS.html
632
S. BLANCKENSEE & SON Ltd.
14&15 Frederick St., Birmingham, UK
In 1885 the brothers purchased the well known Emanuel & Davis jewellery makers. In the same year they moved
into a charming building in Birmingham’s jewellery quarter (14&15 Frederick Street) which contained work-
shops which were described as a manufactory in the advertising literature. This building was also known as Sov-
ereign Hall. The family firm occupied this building from 1881 - 1945. In 1887 Soloman’s son, Aaron, became the
Managing Director. The partnership was incorporated as a limited company. More family members joined the
company and their dedication ensured that this booming business could take over other rivals. By 1887 the com-
pany known as Simeon Greenberg had become part of the Blanckensee group. Sidney Blanckensee & Son (Aaron’s
son & grandson) were involved in the manufacture of brooches and jewellery.
Lionel Blanckensee was the son of Abraham Solomon Blanckensee. He followed in his father's footsteps, opening
a business located on Buckingham Street, Birmingham. Some time after this, his firm occupied premises at 18 &
19 Northwood Street, an address which is also located in the Birmingham jewellery quarter. London showrooms
were located at various addresses in Holborn from 1893 - 1906. Lionel Blanckensee died in January 1933. By the
time of the deaths of Aaron (1902) & Julius (1912) other businesses had been purchased, namely Isaac Silver-
stone & Nathan & Hayes. Sidney made the decision that the company should also focus on manufacturing silver,
as well as trading as jewellers, gold and silversmiths.”104
104 https://thevintagecompactshop.com/blogs/antique-and-collectible-history/s-blanckensee-sons-ltd
633
An example of a silver mesh bag by “S. Blanckensee & Son Ltd.”, 1911:
634
J.C. VICKERY
179, 181, 183 Regent Street, London, UK
635
J. GLOSTER Ltd.
Hockley Hill, Birmingham, UK
“The silversmiths J. Gloster Ltd. were highly regarded for both their sterling silver & silver plated items from the
Victorian era until the 1960s. The company was founded in 1880. Their premises was situated at Lion Silver
Works, Hockley Hill in Birmingham, England. They were a British Industries Fair Listed Exhibitor in 1929. The
catalogue lists the firm as: “Manufacturers of Silver E.P.N.S., "Aloid" and "Neusil" Cigarette Cases, lined "Shelley",
"Nameloid", or "Perline" fitted with Patent "Metelas" Clips. Presentation Cups, Bowls, Tea Sets, and General Silver
Goods. Birmingham Jewellers' and Goldsmiths' Association Member”. (Stand Nos. J.43 and J.54).
J. Gloster hallmarked silver cases decorated with bright-cut engraving are highly collectible. The term ‘bright cut’
refers to a type of decorative engraving used on metal objects, often precious metals. Decorative designs are
created by making a series of short cuts into the metal, using a polished engraving tool that causes the exposed
surfaces to reflect light and give an impression of brightness. It was most frequently used in England and coun-
tries influenced by the work of English silversmiths during the late 18th and 19th century.”105
An example of a silver dance purse by “J. Gloster Ltd.”, 1915, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
105 https://thevintagecompactshop.com/blogs/antique-and-collectible-history/j-gloster-silversmith-history-heritage
636
W.H. HASELER & Co.
1, Gladstone Buildings, Richard St., Vyse St., Birmingham, UK
William Hair Haseler was born to John and Sarah Evett (Hair) Haseler in 1821/1822 in Birmingham, England.
He married Elizabeth Rabone in 1851 and together they had six children. In 1870, Haseler founded the company,
W. H. Haseler & Co., specializing in gold and silver work, and jewelry.
During the 1890s, Liberty formed relationships with many leading English designers. In 1898, Liberty and
Haseler created a formal partnership to launch the Cymric silver line under the title “Liberty and Co. (Cymric)
Ltd.” using free lance designers. One of those designers, Archibald Knox (1864-1933), began designing for Liberty
in 1899. He focused on the new Celtic design work for the Cymric range and its pewter counterpart, known as
Tudric. Haseler was responsible for making many of Knox’s designs. Knox was a highly gifted designer and is
largely credited with the success of Cymric silverware. He continued to design for Liberty until 1912.106
107
106 https://glessnerhouse.blogspot.com/2014/05/william-hair-haseler-silversmith.html
107 https://www.silvermakersmarks.co.uk/Makers/Birmingham-WH-WK.html
637
An example of a silver dance purse by “W.H. Haseler & Co.”, 1915, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
638
F.J. DAVIS & Co.
Birmingham, UK
108
An example of a silver dance purse by “F. J. Davis & Co.”, 1914, from the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
108 https://www.silvermakersmarks.co.uk/Makers/Birmingham-FG-FL.html
639
Russian mesh bag industry
Peter Carl Fabergé (born May 18 [May 30, New Style], 1846, St. Petersburg, Russia-died September 24, 1920,
Lausanne, Switzerland) was one of the greatest goldsmiths, jewelers, and designers in Western decorative arts
and jeweler to the Russian imperial court.
Of Huguenot descent and a son of a St. Petersburg jeweler, Fabergé was trained in St. Petersburg, Frankfurt, and
Dresden, and he absorbed influences across Western Europe with travels to Paris and London. He inherited his
father’s business in 1870 and continued to manufacture jewelry and decorative objects while expanding the
firm’s concentration to include furniture, functional objects, and, famously, objects of fancy.
Assisted by his brother, Agathon, who joined the firm in 1882, as well as his sons and associates headed by the
Swiss artisan François Berbaum, Fabergé gained recognition as a brilliant designer, specializing in precious and
semiprecious materials such as gold, silver, malachite, jade, lapis lazuli, and gems. Much of his work was inspired
by the decorative arts executed under King Louis XVI of France, but the firm also drew from influences that in-
cluded the traditional arts of Russia and Renaissance Italy as well as from the Rococo style. Some later pieces
reflected the emerging Art Nouveau style.109
109 https://www.britannica.com/biography/Peter-Carl-Faberge
640
Henrik WIGSTROM (1862-1923) born in Ekenäs, Finland, a Swedish/Finnish workmaster who became head
workmaster upon Michael Perchin's death in 1903, thereby assuming responsibility for the imperial Easter eggs.
Wigström was particularly adept at designing cigarette cases, frames and figurines, which were produced in large
number during the Fabergé firm's most productive years. Wigström's style is characterized by echoes of the Louis
XVI and Empire (style) periods. His hallmarks: “H.W.”110
An example of a silver mesh bag by “Peter Carl Fabergé” made under workmaster Henrik Wigström, c. 1900s:
110 https://www.silvercollection.it/faberge.html
641
An example of a 56 (14k) gold mesh bag by “Peter Carl Fabergé” made under workmaster Henrik Wigström:
642
An example of a 56 (14k) gold mesh bag by “Peter Carl Fabergé” made under workmaster Andre Adler:
643
PAVEL AKIMOVICH OVCHINNIKOV
Moscow, St. Petersburg, Russian Empire
Pavel Akimovich Ovchinnikov (in Russian: Павел Акимович Овчинников), 1830-1888, was one of the most fa-
mous Russian silversmiths of his time and an exceptional businessman.
He was born in Moscow province in 1830, from a family of modest origins: his father was a serf. Nevertheless,
Pavel was sent to study in Moscow by Prince Dimitri Volkonski, where he was apprenticed in a jewellery shop.
In 1850 he gained his freedom and three years later he founded his own workshop. In his factory, he employed
more than a hundred men, and in 1865 he was appointed Court supplier to the future Tzar Alexander III. His
works were exhibited at the Pan-Russian manufacturing exhibition in 1865 where he won the gold medal and at
the Exposition Universelle in Paris in 1867. Few years later he was appointed court supplier by the king of Italy
Vittorio Emanuele II and the king of Denmark Christian IX.
In 1873 Ovchinnikov opened a branch in St. Petersburg and by 1881 over three hundred people were working
for the firm.111
111 https://www.pushkinantiques.com/pavel-ovchinnikov
644
An example of a silver mesh bag by “Pavel Akimovich Ovchinnikov”, c. 1900s:
645
KLIMENT ANIKIEVICH ZAGAEVSKY
Russian Empire
Kliment Anikievich Zagaevsky (in other sources Klimenty Ioanniklevich (Anikovich, Ioanikievich, Antonovich).
In Russian: Климент Аникиевич Загаевский), was born on August 6, 1853 in the city of Chisinau, Bessarabia
province. At the age of 20, he applied to the Mining Institute in St. Petersburg for admission to the entrance exams.
In 1880, he successfully graduated from the Mining Institute. After graduating, in 1882 he served in the Ministry
of Finance in the Assay Department, temporarily managing the Vilna Assay Office, and then the Riga Assay Dis-
trict. He held the official and class rank of state councilor since 1900, since 1913 - full state councilor, since March
1, 1916 an official of special assignments of the V class of the Ministry of Trade and Industry. Knight of the Order
of St. Anne, 3rd class “for blameless 12 years of service in one position of at least 8th grade” (1896), St. Stanislav P
art. (1900). Kliment Zagaevsky remained in the memory of descendants for his works - the reference books “On
hallmarks and the imposition of hallmarks on gold and silver products”, published in 1895, and “Basic rules for
hallmarking precious items”, published in 1912.112
113
An example of a silver mesh bag by an unknown maker, imported into Russian Empire, c. 1899-1908, and as-
sayed by “Kliment Anikievich Zagaevsky”. From the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
112 Central State Historical Archive of St. Petersburg f.963 op.1 d.9064; Zablotsky E.M. Mining department of pre-revolutionary Russia:
Essay on history: Biographical Dictionary, 2014; Volkov S.V. Higher officials of the Russian Empire, 2016; Skurlov V.V., Ivanov A.N. Hall-
making of Russian gold and silver items at the turn of the 19th-20th centuries, 2001
113 https://www.925-1000.com/Frussia_kokoshnik_01.html
646
ABRAM HASKELEVICH MANZON
Berdichev, Russian Empire (Ukraine)
c. 1910s
114 https://www.antik-forum.ru/forum/showthread.php?t=295317
647
Another example of a silver mesh bag by “Abram Haskelevich Manzon”:
648
Y.L. PROKOFIEV
Russian Empire
649
UNKNOWN
Russian Empire
An example of a mesh bag by “Я.П.” (a yet to be identified Russian maker). Assayed in Moscow, 1908-1917:
650
UNKNOWN
Russian Empire
An example of a mesh bag by “Е.Ш.” (a yet to be identified Russian maker). Assayed in Moscow, 1908-1917:
651
UNKNOWN
Russian Empire
652
UNKNOWN
Russian Empire (Ukraine)
An example of a silver bag by “Ш.Ш.” (a yet to be identified Russian maker). Assayed in Odessa, 1908-1917.
From the private collection of Miriam Israeli:
653
Polish mesh bag industry
A. WISNIAK
Poland
654
A. ZAJDSZNEJDER
Poland
Engraved with a Hebrew (Yiddish) inscription: “In memory of Anna Hudesman, year 5682 [1922]”
655
UNKNOWN
Poland
656
Austrian mesh bag industry
G.A. SCHEID
Gumpendorferstrasse 85, Vienna, Austria
Georg Adam Scheid (1838-1921) was a German-Austrian entrepreneur and jewelry manufacturer. At the age of
15 he went to Pforzheim, where he completed an apprenticeship and was sent to Vienna as a sales representative
in 1858. He founded his first company there in 1862. For more than 50 years, Scheid produced high-quality silver
and gold jewelry as well as luxury items in his factory on Gumpendorfertsraße with around 300 employees,
which were exported all over Europe. Sales points were in Vienna, Budapest, Paris, St. Petersburg and Istanbul.115
“The custom house Thursday released from bond for purposes of sale $3,193 worth of goods in the jewelry ex-
hibit of G. A. Scheid, Vienna, Austria. It is notable that foreign houses are having goods released in large quantities.
The firm pay 80 per cent. duty, any surplus being returned after goods are appraised.”117
115 https://annodazumal-antikschmuck.de/Jugendstil-Dose-in-massivem-Silber-von-Georg-Adam-Scheid-Wien
116 https://thevintagecompactshop.com/blogs/antique-and-collectible-history/georg-adam-scheid-history-and-heritage
117 “The Jewelers' Circular-Keystone and Horological Review” - 1893-08-30
657
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1893-09-06
658
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1893-09-06
659
An example of a silver mesh bag by “G. A. Scheid”, c. 1900s, from the private collection of Mara Bertoli:
660
Dutch mesh bag industry
PAUW J.L.
Schoonhoven, Netherlands
PLEYT W.
Schoonhoven, Netherlands
661
PLUUT A.
Schoonhoven, Netherlands
UNKNOWN
Netherlands
1850s
1917
662
Portuguese mesh bag industry
ANDRÉ VILLARET
Almada, Portugal
663
Asian mesh bag industry
UNKNOWN
China
“‘Chinese Export Silver’ comprises objects made in China for export to foreigners. Silver was used as historically
it was more valuable in China than gold. Silver was the currency of choice for large transactions and government
taxes for centuries, and for a lot of foreign trade. China had few silver deposits but foreign payment in silver from
Japan, and later, in the 17th century and after, from the new Spanish colonies in South America. This silver, which
was normally of about 90% purity, was melted down and used to produce goods. There were three periods of
Chinese Export Jewellery. A particular style of the earlier jewellery is known as Peking Style and it was made
from the late 19th century to the early 20th century. It is made of silver mesh wirework decorated with precious
stones and sometimes with cloisonné, and often Chinese characters. Typical marks on the jewellery differ de-
pending on the period it is from, although not all carry marks:
Period 1: 1785 to 1910 – May have English or western letters or hallmarks as well as Chinese ideograms or shop
marks.
Period 2: 1911 to 1948 – Usually marked CHINA Silver, SILVER or SILVER MADE IN CHINA.
Period 3: 1971 to the 1990s – SILVER, CHINA, 925. If it only has 925, it is 1971+. The silver is thinner and the
word SILVER is smaller and contained in an oval plaque.”118
118 https://navettejewellery.org/2019/05/28/chinese-export-silver-jewellery/
664
665
UNKNOWN
Malaya
“Chinese tradesmen began to settle in Malaya in the 18th Century. The tradesmen married Malay women and
formed communities or settlements, adopting a mixture of Malay and Chinese customs. The descendants of these
mixed marriages are known as Peranakans. Unique silver items were created for the Peranakan community by
local Chinese silversmiths, which were a fusion of the two cultures. Silver objects were made in Malay and Java-
nese forms but were ornamented with Chinese symbols, grotesque figures, animals and Chinese flowers and
trees. Objects included belt buckles, pillow ends and jewellery. Betel sets, jugs and ewers were also made, but are
rarely seen today. Peranakan silver from the 18th century and early 19th century is very rare. Most of the objects
seen today were made in the late 19th and early 20th century. This was the heyday of Peranakan silver produc-
tion, coinciding with the era of British rule. It is interesting to compare Peranakan porcelain with Straits silver.
The porcelain was created during the same period and intended for domestic use. It is bright and playful, featur-
ing Chinese mythical figures and floral designs.”119
119 https://www.josephcohenantiques.com/collections/chinese-straits-silver
666
UNKNOWN
Vietnam?
An example of a silver mesh bag by an unidentified maker, imported into France from Vietnam? :
667
668
Czechoslovakian mesh bag industry
UNKNOWN
Czechoslovakia
669
Part No. 2
Mesh bag
repairers
670
THEO. LEUBUSHER & Co.
Milwaukee, Wis.
HENRY ABEL
47-49 Maiden Lane, New York
1912
THOMAS A. WEISS
47-49 Maiden Lane, New York
1911
671
BRESLAVSKY BROS.
51-53 Maiden Lane, New York
1915
672
RELIABLE PLATING Co.
41-43 Maiden Lane, New York
1915
“WANTED: experienced plater and polisher, must be experienced on mesh bag plaiting; no other need apply; also
mesh bag maker. New York Jewelry Mfg. Co., 317 Pittsburgh Life Bldg., Pittsburgh, Pa.”120
“The New York Jewelry Mfg. Co. has moved from the Penn building on Penn Ave. to the fifth floor of the Pittsburgh
Life and Trust building, 6th St. and Liberty Ave. The quarters taken there are larger.”122
CARON BROTHERS
233-239 Bleury St., Montreal, Canada
121
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1913-03-12
122
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1918-05-08
674
A.A. LUPIEN Co.
24 Broad Street, later Slater Avenue, Pawtucket, Rhode Island, later 4 Bagley Street, Attleboro, Massachusetts
“According to information filed with the City Clerk of Pawtucket, Albert A. Lupien is the sole owner of the business
of the A. A. Lupien Co., located in the Old Slater Mill in that city. The concern will discontinue the manufacturing
of mesh bags and will confine its work to repairing mesh bags and jewelry. Mr. Lupien conducts a retail and
optical business at 24 Broad St., that city.”123
“The A. A. Lupien Co., Pawtucket, has sold to the Sanderson Mfg. Co. a new corporation, the stock and fixtures
used in the manufacturing of mesh bags. The Sanderson Mfg. Co. has agreed for a period of five years not to
engage in the business of repairing mesh bags and jewelry for the trade. The A. A. Lupien Co. will retain and
continue the business of repairing mesh bags and jewelry and will make a specialty of this kind of work.”124
123
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1914-03-11
124
“The Jewelers' Circular” - 1914-04-15
675
THE MARVEL ELECTRO PLATING & STAMPING WORKS Inc.
Marvel Building, 109 East 116th Street, New York
“The Marvel Electro Plating & Stamping Works, Inc.. has located in the Marvel building, 109 East 116th St., New
York City. Thomas S. Stretch, the superintendent of the plating department, advises that they are especially
equipped to handle jewelry plating, such as mesh bags, etc. The floor space is 5,000 square feet. Departments
operated are plating, polishing, buffing, lacquering, burnishing and stamping. The equipment is up-to-date and
they have just installed four new tumbling barrels and a new dynamo. Mr. Stretch started as an apprentice in the
plating department of Bradley & Hubbard Company, Meriden, Conn., and has followed the same business for a
period of forty years. He is a popular member of the New York branch of the American Electro Platers' Society.
I. N. Seldes is treasurer of the company.”125
1922
S. KOHN
41 Maiden Lane, New York
“Vogue” - 1913-03-15
1915
1920
1913
“Newark, N.J.
Joseph Landsman, of New York City and the Wordside Sterling Company have combined as the Globe Art Com-
pany, with factory at 69 Winthrop Street, and will manufacture silver goods and silver deposit ware.”126
ZAPON
200 Fifth Avenue, New York City
678
679
680
SWARTZ & CISKE
The Silversmiths Building, 10 South Wabash Avenue, Chicago
1924
1925
681
SWARTZ & Co.
10 South Wabash Avenue, Chicago
1925
CHARLES GRABHORN
60 Nassau Street, New York
1912
682
JOSEPH LANDSMAN
51 Maiden Lane, New York
1911
1912
“Joseph Landsman, who has been carrying on at Maiden Lane a plating, repairing and special order jewelry busi-
ness for the past ten years, has now moved into his new factory at Newark, N. J. This factory is a modern three-
story building of yellow brick trimmed with red brick and sand stone, and is 35 by 85 feet deep. The second and
third floors have been given over to repairing, special order work and gold, silver and platinum plating, while the
firm's offices will be located on the second floor and the ground floor will be occupied by the receiving and ship-
ping departments.”127
“Newark, N.J. Joseph Landsman, of New York City and the Wordside Sterling Company have combined as the
Globe Art Company, with factory at 69 Winthrop Street, and will manufacture silver goods and silver deposit
ware.”128
684
COHAN-EPNER Co.
51-53 Maiden Lane, New York
1917
685
SUSSFELD, LORSCH & Co.
90-94 Maiden Lane, New York
686
Part No. 3
Miscellaneous
mesh bag related articles
687
“McCall's Magazine” - The Queen of Fashion - New York City - 1900-01
688
“The Jewelers' Circular and Horological Review” - 1903
689
“The Delineator” - 1904
690
“The Delineator” - 1904
691
692
HERMAN BACH
1538, Broadway, New York
693
“Harper's Bazaar” - 1910-02
694
695
696
“Vogue” - 1910-12-01
697
698
“Style” - July to December 1913
699
“Style” - July to December 1913
700
Volume 32, Number 05 - May 1914
701
“Vogue” - 1915-02-15
702
“Vogue” - 1916-12-15
703
“Vogue” - 1919-05-15
704
“Vogue” - 1919-05-15
705
706
“Vogue” - 1921-12-01
707
“Vogue” - 1922-11-01
708
709
710
“Screenland” - 1930-10 - Vol. 21, No. 6
711
“Screenland” - 1930-10 - Vol. 21, No. 6
712