A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 15, Issue 10 l Pages 95 to 126

October 2022

CCI and COTTON USA™ Bangladesh has Removing toxic chromium

mark ‘Cotton Day 2022’ potential to be a from wastewater by raw
to speed up positive winning market in and chitosan-treated
cotton aspects the future banana and areca fiber

SETTING A NEW STANDARD IN MORE

October 2022

SUSTAINABLE COTTON PRODUCTION

Trust in a smarter
cotton future.

JOIN NOW
Learn more +
become a member
TrustUSCotton.org
JOIN NOW
SETTING A NEW STANDARD IN MORE
SUSTAINABLE COTTON PRODUCTION
Launched in 2020, the U.S.
Cotton Trust Protocol was
designed to set a new standard
in more sustainably grown
cotton, ensuring that it
contributes to the protection
and preservation of the planet,
using the most sustainable and
responsible techniques. It is
the only system that provides
quantifiable, verifiable goals
and measurement in six key
sustainability metrics and
article-level supply chain
transparency.
The Trust Protocol provides
brands and retailers the
critical assurances they need to
show the cotton fiber element
of their supply chain is more
sustainably grown with lower
environmental and social risk.
Trust in a smarter
cotton future.
Learn more +
become a member
TrustUSCotton.org

World cotton day 2022
‘weaving a
better future
for cotton’
Rahbar Hossain
To highlight the importance of this
global commodity in generating
jobs and maintaining economic
stability in less developed
countries, the United Nations
General Assembly declared
October 7 as World Cotton Day in
2021.
Cotton represents so much more
than just a commodity. This natural
fiber is a life-changing product
worldwide that sustains 32 million
growers (mostly women) and
benefits over 100 million families
across 80 countries (North
America, Europe, Asia-Pacific,
South America, and Middle East &
Africa).
On this second official UN World
Cotton Day, the United Nations
wants to raise visibility and
celebrate the cotton sector and
awareness of the critical role that
it plays in economic development,
international trade and poverty
alleviation. At the same time with
the goal to foster sustainable
trade policies and aid developing
countries benefit from the cotton
value chain.
The observance also aims
to highlight the importance
of sustained, inclusive and
sustainable economic growth, full
and productive employment and
decent work for all.
All the stakeholders of this cotton
industry should facilitate the
workers. Indeed, cotton is a major
source of livelihoods and incomes
for many rural peoples all over the
world.
According to UN, a single ton
of cotton provides year-round
employment for 5 people on
average, often in some of the most
impoverished regions.
The initiative of World Cotton
Day begun in 2019, when four
cotton producers in sub-Saharan
Africa– Benin, Burkina Faso, Chad
and Mali, known as the Cotton
Four – proposed the World Trade
Organization a World Cotton Day
celebration on October 7.
Facts about cotton
Cotton is grown from natural fibers
of cotton plants, which are native
to tropical and subtropical states.
The word cotton is emanated
from the Arabic word ‘quton’.
Nevertheless, the original
production of the product was
in India, which still remains the
number one cotton producer in
the world.
As one of the most renewable and
biodegradable product – cotton is
the most ecologically friendly raw
material for the textile spinning
industry as related to its synthetic
options.
Cotton plants have a big rising
period which can range up to
200 days. Growing cotton starts
Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2022
C o t t o n To d a y
Figure: The United Nations General
Assembly declared October 7 as
World Cotton Day in 2021.
between December and March.
These plants need a comparatively
high temperature over a long
growing season.
Unlike prevalent faith, cotton is not
a thirsty crop as it is a xerophyte,
which can breed in dry, arid
environments.
Only 3 percent of the world's land
is used for rising cotton. Yet, it
meets 27 percent of the globe's
textile demands.
Cotton benefits and uses
Besides the soft fabric, cottonseed
is also used to produce oil. Which
is used for cooking, making soap
and cosmetics. Growers also use
cottonseed meals and cake as
fertilizer and animal feed.
Aside from garment, cotton can be
used for creating homeware and
industrial products. In addition,
used in fishnets, coffee filters,
tents, book binding and archival
paper.
Short fibers known as linters are
found on the cottonseed after
ginning. These are used to create
bandages, bank notes, swabs,
cotton buds and x-rays. Most
notably, cotton is natural and lax
and comfortable for a wearer.
Cotton made fiber is skin-friendly
as it has ventilative properties
unlike human-made fabrics such as
polyester or nylon.
97
 A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 15, Issue 10 l Pages 95 to 126
October 2022

October 2022

On the Cover
An initiative of Textile Today
CCI is a non-profit trade association that promotes U.S. cotton fiber
CCI and COTTON USA™
mark ‘Cotton Day 2022’
to speed up positive
Bangladesh has
potential to be a
winning market in
Removing toxic chromium
from wastewater by raw
and chitosan-treated
and manufactured cotton products around the globe with COTTON
cotton aspects the future banana and areca fiber

SETTING A NEW STANDARD IN MORE

USA trademark. CCI works with spinning mills, fabric and garment
The Team
SUSTAINABLE COTTON PRODUCTION

Trust in a smarter
cotton future. manufacturers, brands, retailers, textile associations, governments
JOIN NOW
Learn more +
become a member

and the USDA to facilitate the use of U.S. cotton.

TrustUSCotton.org

Tareq Amin
Founder & CEO
97 Cotton Today 112 Industry Best
Practices
Mosharaf Composite
Amzad Hossain Monir
showcases recycled yarn for
Head of Business Development World cotton sustainable garments
day 2022
‘weaving a
better future 113 Jute Today
Arif Saleh Tasin for cotton’ Jute textiles production
Rahbar Hossain decreases significantly
Shohel Ahmed
99 News &
Business Development
Analysis 113 Cotton Today
Nigerian textile industry to be
Diversification in spinning has
revived with Bt cotton
a big scope in Bangladesh
SN Abdullah
Nurunnahar Tania 100-102 Cotton Today 114 Cotton Today
Research & Development US currency notes are
made of cotton and linen

Sanjoy Kumar Saha

Engagement & Communication 116 Advertorial
Field Tests Confirm High
Performance of New
CCI and COTTON USA™ mark
Yeasin Mia Accotex Aprons
‘Cotton Day 2022’ to speed
Graphic Design
up positive cotton aspects
117 Experts Views
104 Advertorial 4 Important questions to
ask when sourcing fabric
Zakir Hossain Optimizing Draw
Jr. Executive, Web & IT Frame Performance
120 News &
Face 2 Face Analysis
106-108
BTMA concerns over banks
Ashraful Alam avoid LC opening
Umeduzzaman Khan Ucchas
Cinematographer Bangladesh has
124-125 Event Today
potential to be a
winning market in
the future
Md. Ariful Islam
Md. Masudur Rahman
Abir Basak 110 Advertorial
Murata Vortex Seminar 2022
Editorial Contributions The right spindle to showcases its groundbreaking
make the difference sustainable spinning system
for the apparel makers
Inquiry:
M. +88 01775 999 748
E. monir@textiletoday.com.bd
W. www.textiletoday.com.bd

Diversification
in spinning has
a big scope in
Bangladesh
Sayed Abdullah
Bangladesh textile spinning
sector has been playing a critical
role in upholding the country’s
readymade garment (RMG)
exports. The spinners and textile
sectors have been investing
heavily in capacity expansion and
high-end product making.
One of the leading textile
conglomerates of Bangladesh
– Amanat Shah Group has been
pioneering in new innovation,
high-end products and sustainable
products in textiles.
Amanat Shah Group envisioned
by Mohammad Helal Miah – is an
upshot of a committed family-
owned initiative by upholding
product quality and diversity.
Rezaul Karim is the Director of
Amanat Shah Group and one of
the young leaders of the Amanat
Shah family. He has been carrying
the wisdom of the family business
from his father, a legend in the
textile business. Now Rezaul Karim
is passionately focusing on their
traditional family business to lead
it to the next level.
Amanat Shah Group reached
the pinnacle of the Bangladesh’s
textile industry by growing
capacity in manufacturing all kinds
of fabrics and finished garments.
Rezaul Karim said, “In terms of
investment we are following a
path of gradual process. We
work in a balanced way. Right
at this moment we are having
News & Analysis
“
In terms of investment we are
following a path of gradual
process. We work in a balanced
way. Right at this moment we
are having an investment in the
spinning sector. We are mostly
focusing on blended yarn.
Diversification in spinning has
a big scope in Bangladesh as
maximum blended or high-end
yarn is imported from China.
Rezaul Karim
Director of Amanat Shah Group
an investment in the spinning creating a lot of new markets and
sector. We are mostly focusing product diversification. That is why
on blended yarn. Diversification we have to be up to date with the
in spinning has a big scope in whole eco-system.”
Bangladesh as maximum blended
“I personally appreciate such
or high-end yarn is imported from
type of expo – as we get all the
China. That is why we are focusing
developments and innovations
on this segment.”
together. My thanks to Textile
“We have already started the Today as they always highlight
project work and hopefully by the branding Bangladesh and made in
end of this year or as early as the Bangladesh.
beginning of 2023 will be able to
go into production. Amanat Shah
is also expanding in dying house
and woven factory segment.”
Amanat Shah Group visited
in just concluded 21st Textech
Bangladesh International Expo.
Rezaul Karim expressed how
Bangladeshi textile and apparel
manufactures get a chance to be
in touch with the new innovations
and developments by exploring
expos like 21st Textech Bangladesh
International Expo.
Rezaul Karim said, “21st Textech
Bangladesh International Expo
looked quite resourceful
to me. As it will give the
manufactures a chance
to be in touch with the
new innovations and
developments of
dyes and chemical
industry, fabric and
yarn. Bangladesh
textile and RMG
is emerging and
growing. We are
Rezaul Karim, Director of Amanat Shah Group
Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2022 99
C o t t o n To d a y
Figure 1: CCI – the export promotion arm of the National Cotton Council of America and
COTTON USA™ –celebrated the seventh edition of Cotton Day.
CCI and COTTON USA™ mark
‘Cotton Day 2022’ to speed up
positive cotton aspects
Staff Correspondent
Cotton Council International
(CCI) – the export promotion arm
of the National Cotton Council
of America and COTTON USA™
– the leading U.S. cotton fiber
promoter and manufacturer of
cotton products – celebrated the
seventh edition of Cotton Day on
21 September at a hotel in Dhaka.
The seminar highlighted the
activities of Cotton USA and US
Trust Protocol activities, as well
as, the global cotton production,
supply and its demand scenario.
The seminar was graced by
COTTON USA™ Licensees and
US Trust Protocol Members
and over 150 prominent leaders
of the spinning and textile
industry, executives, garment
manufacturers, and international
brands and retailers were present.
In the grand ‘Cotton Day 2022’
seminar, CCI global experts
100 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2022
presented papers on several topics
including Global Cotton Economic
Outlook, USA Cotton Supply and
Demand and US Logistics, as well
as, case studies of established
profits of Cotton USA, assisted by
COTTON USA™ Solutions program.
In the introduction remarks,
Ali Arsalan, Cotton Council
International (CCI) Consultants
and Representative in Bangladesh
expressed his acknowledged to
the COTTON USA™ Licensees and
US Trust Protocol Members i.e. 81
member mills in Bangladesh, who
participated in the Cotton Day
2022 seminar. He remind them
that Cotton USA Solutions Team
is available to visit factory free of
charge, for any issues at their mills
like from Bale Management to
Processing.
William R. Bettendorf, Regional
Director, Supply Chain Marketing,
South & Southeast Asia, Cotton
Council International (CCI) said,
“US Trust Protocol has gained a
global acceptance as the most
sustainable, robust, detailed and
traceable program. Be it NGO’s,
the UN, and other leading cotton
sustainable initiatives have regard
US Trust Protocol as the most
unique program. As a result,
globally US Trust Protocol has 900
member mills.”
“We are thankful for the backing of
the Bangladeshi spinners who have
embraced the US Cotton Trust
Protocol. As Ali Arsalan mentioned
that here in Bangladesh, 81 mills
member of the US Trust Protocol.
Which is great. And I want to
thank all the members. I will
urge the members to publicly
proclaim this membership to your
advantage with the brands and
retailers,” Bettendorf said.
C o t t o n To d a y

“
US Trust Protocol has gained a
global acceptance as the most
sustainable, robust, detailed and
traceable program. Be it NGO’s,
the UN, and other leading cotton
sustainable initiatives have
regard US Trust Protocol as the
most unique program. As a result,
globally US Trust Protocol has
900 member mills.”
William R. Bettendorf
Regional Director, CCI
“At the end of the day, by using sustainability and will source more
Cotton USA® it increases spinning in the future. As U.S. cotton is fully
mills profitability improved sustainable, the call for U.S. cotton
productivity, and the latest will grow more in the Bangladesh
techniques. We are your partners market,” Bettendorf concluded.
in aiding you to get higher
In his speech, Helen LaFave, US
profit. Our team of Cotton USA®
Deputy Chief of Mission said,
SOLUTIONS™ Services experts
“The $90 million grant for Climate
has created five business-building
Smart Cotton to the US Cotton
key offerings, these are – 1:1 Mill
Trust Protocol demonstrates the
Consults, Technical Seminars,
USA’s commitment to sustainable
COTTON USA Mill Mastery®
cotton production.”
Course, Mill Studies, Mill Exchange
Program. COTTON USA™ Joerg Bauersachs, Head of
SOLUTIONS™ Services experts CCI Technical Services said,
provides unrivaled know-how “CCI Technical Services team
informed by work with over 1,500 – comprised of some global
mills in 50 countries. Our programs experts who visited more than
are complimentary for U.S. Cotton 200 spinning mills from all over
Trust Protocol® members or the world – is available to visit
COTTON USA™ licensees. Available COTTON USA™ Licensees and
US Trust Protocol Members
factories for any issues at their
mills – from Bale management,
shade variations, dyeing issues to
Processing, etc. These services
are free of charge for the member
mills.”
“We confidently proclaim
ourselves are the leading technical
cotton spinning consultancy in the
world. Our technical consultancy
team is consisted of the best
spinning experts from around
the globe – who have best in-
depth knowledge in the spinning
industry,” said Bauersachs.
“As Will. Bettendorf said – under
the Cotton USA® SOLUTIONS™
Services – we offer five business-
building key offerings for the
millers; unlike any other cotton
provider in the world. What we
provide for our members in 1:1
Mill Consults is we determine
innovative techniques that can cut
operational costs by 10% to 25%
with this top-notch consultancy
program.
Joerg Bauersachs added, “In 1:1
Mill Consult – we bring one of our
Mill Experts right to our customers
spinning mill. Our experts will do a
one-day, in-depth mill examination
followed by a Field Service that
can last one or two full weeks.
The millers will receive preliminary
findings, respectively identified
areas of possible improvements

“
in person or virtually. And will aid
you shape your business like never
before,” said Bettendorf.
“Most importantly, you can
depend on us for innovations in Cotton Council International
sustainability and rigorous fair (CCI) Consultants and
labor practices,” Bettendorf added. Representative in Bangladesh
expressed his acknowledged
“Against the growing global call of to the COTTON USA™
sustainable cotton – brands and Licensees and US Trust
retailers said that they will need 5 Protocol Members i.e. 81
million bales of sustainable cotton member mills in Bangladesh,
by 2025. And the good news is who participated in the
that US cotton will be able to fulfil Cotton Day 2022 seminar.
that demand. We recommend
them to use US cotton as it is the Ali Arsalan
most sustainable grown cotton CCI Consultants and
available in the market. In addition, Representative in Bangladesh
US buyers constantly focus on

Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2022 101

 C o t t o n To d a y

after the one-day Technical Mill

Survey, and solutions at the end of
the Field Service.”
“Millers can also do our Mill
Mastery® Course. Our in-depth
Mill Mastery® course is designed
to take millers spinning skills to
the next level. It is managed by
the COTTON USA SOLUTIONS™
Technical Team, with a collective
experience of over 200 years.”
“For spinners, the main areas of
innovation are: fiber selection
and Bale management – we
always suggest millers to use
software based solutions.
Recommendations on Bale
laydown practice – we advise
spinners regarding various
techniques for improvements.
Settings of cleaning points
and Yield Improvement. Yield
Improvement is the most
important aspect in relation to
mills success.”
“As for waste management
– Cotton USA® SOLUTIONS™
Services provide Yield and NRE%
Optimization. Recommendations
on Card Clothing Specification/
maintenance. And fine-tuning
on settings with focus on yarn
quality.”
“Customers privacy is always our
top priority. We never disclose
that ‘mill X, Y or Z’ is this or that
setting to get the best result.
Rather without naming anyone we
“CCI Technical Services team –
comprised of some global experts who
visited more than 200 spinning mills
from all over the world – is available
to visit COTTON USA™ Licensees and
US Trust Protocol Members factories
for any issues at their mills – from Bale
management, shade variations, dyeing
issues to Processing, etc. These
services are free of charge for the
member mills.”
Joerg Bauersachs
Head of CCI Technical Services
suggest the best possible setting Dyer also highlighted the
for best result,” Bauersachs said. additional challenges in the
cotton supply chain like: driver
“Most notably, in close
shortage, seasonal challenges,
collaboration with the technical
vaccine related concerns, delayed
teams of our customers, the
vessel services, and other issues
Cotton USA® SOLUTIONS™ Team
persisting in the cotton industry.
has achieved many success stories
over the past years. Which resulted “Despite all the global challenges
in: cost savings, productivity and volatility of the market, people
increase, and optimization of still are spending in the major
the yarn quality,” Bauersachs markets like the USA, EU, UK.
concluded. Showing that in reality, situation is
not that bad.”
In the seminar, Steve Dyer, Global
Head of Cotton Marketing at Louis “We have really had a remarkable
Dreyfus addressed on the global recovery in cotton consumption
cotton production, supply and key from the lows with US retail
global factors affecting demand. sales bounce back to the level
He shared the global scenario of of strong sales. So, the global
cotton production, supply and cotton kind of jump started the
possible demand in the upcoming 2022. And the cotton demand
fiscal years from his experience. concerns really starting to come
through. And I think

“
the reason for this is
that the consumers
in the US are moving
on with life. Although
We have really had a remarkable recovery in the inflation is there,
cotton consumption from the lows with US retail but the people haven't
sales bounce back to the level of strong sales. So, really touched by it.
the global cotton kind of jump started the 2022. And this is driving
And the cotton demand concerns really starting the US economy and
to come through. And I think the reason for this is ultimately the cotton
that the consumers in the US are moving on with demand.”
life. Although the inflation is there, but the people
CCI started celebrating
haven't really touched by it. And this is driving the
Cotton Day in 2016 to
US economy and ultimately the cotton demand.”
highlight the positive
Steve Dyer aspects of cotton as
the favored fiber for
Global Head of Cotton Marketing at Louis Dreyfus
consumers and the
addressed on the global cotton production
textile industry.

102 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2022

Advertorial

Optimizing draw
frame performance
Rieter Story

Draw frames play a key role in every spinning mill

in determining the quality of the yarn. To keep the
quality of yarn and sliver consistently high and
achieve high machine productivity, maintenance of
the draw frame is of utmost importance.
Mill managers today face increasing production
requirements and a shortage of manpower at
the same time. Machines must run constantly at
maximum efficiency and availability, while requiring
as little maintenance as possible.

Figure 2: Rieter service offering including ESSENTIALorder

enable optimum maintenance.

provides a comprehensive portfolio of spare parts

Figure 1: Regular maintenance of the draw frame is crucial to
achieve high productivity and excellent sliver quality.
Nevertheless, maintenance is still an important part
of daily business. Each unexpected equipment failure
can:
• Interrupt the production schedule
• Lead to costly downtime
• Increase the amount of waste
• Reduce the sliver and yarn quality
• Reduce the lifetime of components or the machine.
For example, a short length of faulty sliver delivered
by the draw frame is enough to result in several
meters of inadequate or low-quality yarn. Dirty or
dusty guide rollers and guiding tubes can cause
inconsistencies in the sliver thickness. Missing
lubrication of the drive elements can reduce
component lifetime because of drive slippage.
Benefits resulting from regular maintenance
All of that can be prevented by regular maintenance.
To support customers in their daily challenges, Rieter
and services including parts packages to improve the
performance at all stages of the machine lifetime.
Furthermore, maintenance booklets are available
summarizing and illustrating necessary maintenance
procedures. They include recommendations for
cleaning and lubrication of critical areas of the draw
frame (Fig. 1) and provide tables with suggested
parts exchange intervals.
While the maintenance booklet helps perform
regular maintenance, ordering and stocking parts is
made easy by ESSENTIALorder. This online platform
includes a customer specific spare parts catalog and
assists spinning mills in on-time ordering of parts as
well as optimizing the amount of stock. The system
is available 24 hours a day, enabling customers to
submit orders from anywhere at any time.
As a result, downtimes can be prevented and the
draw frames keep running at maximum efficiency.
It will be possible to achieve higher productivity,
excellent sliver quality and increase the lifetime of
the machines. Rieter service specialists support
customers in maintaining their draw frames to reach
their targets (Fig. 2).

104 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2022

 Face 2 Face

British multinational company

Coats – with its more than 250
years of heritage in the industrial
thread business – is constantly
evaluating new and innovative
value-adding products, services
and software solutions to the
apparel and footwear industries.
Rajiv Sharma has been serving as
Chief Executive Officer (CEO) of
Coats Group plc since 2017. Rajiv
Sharma has more than 30 years
of experience in leading complex
global businesses in multiple
industries.
Recently in an interview with
Textile Today, Rajiv Sharma
opened up regarding various
aspects of Coats philosophy,
market strategy and other
critical facets.

Rajiv Sharma, CEO, Coats Group plc

Bangladesh has potential to be

a winning market in the future
BTT Interview

Textile Today: Coats is known to
have a heritage of over 250 years
as a company. Can you provide
some key figures around Coats’
presence in Bangladesh and does
Coats have new strategic projects
planned for this region?
Rajiv Sharma: Coats has unrivalled
global footprint – in some 50
countries with a workforce of
over 17,000 people across six
continents – allowing us to meet
our customers' sourcing needs
consistently and quickly across
multiple locations. We have been
pioneers, creating value adding
products and solutions that meet
our customers’ changing needs.
Bangladesh is one of the most vital
markets for the global textile and
apparel industry, growing to be the
second largest apparel exporting
country in the world. Coats has
been in Bangladesh since 1990 –
we have 32 years of operational
experience in the country. Our
two factories – one in Chattogram
and the other one in Gazipur –
have been built with a state-of-
the-art machines, systems and
processes. And threads produced
in Bangladesh go into garments
that are sold all over the world.
We invest ahead of demand in
Bangladesh. This means our
existing capacity can cater next
3-5 years of demand. If required,
Coats factories in Bangladesh have
space to add more machines.
Textile Today: The textile industry
is ever changing. What do you
foresee for 2023 in terms of
trends and challenges?
Rajiv Sharma: Some parts of
the textile industry are facing
challenges. 2023 will be defined
by two major factors. One is
macroeconomics, and the other
is geo-politics. These two factors
will go a long way to determine
consumer sentiment and demand.
In terms of fashion trends, we
are seeing more and more home-
centric lifestyle clothing that’s
fuelling demand for comfort and
athleisure garments and footwear.
Outdoor, athleisure and casual

106 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2022

clothing will continue to win in the
near term. Formal clothing has been
declining since covid hit the world in
March 2020. Sourcing destinations
that cater to these winning
categories will see more growth.
Digitalisation (from software
powered product development
to metaverse experiences) is
continuing to gain momentum.
Technology emerged as one of
the key drivers reshaping the
fashion world. Young consumers
are demanding fashion companies
to be purpose-driven, to support
social initiatives and reduce
their environmental footprint
so sustainability therefore
has become a ‘must-have’ for
companies.
Textile Today: Where do you see
Bangladesh in the nearshoring
preference and China dependency
reduction strategy of global
brands? Major export destinations
of Bangladesh are going through
difficult times.
Rajiv Sharma: Bangladesh is
a very competitive apparel
sourcing market but must move
up the value chain by offering
services that include garment
designing, inventory management,
sustainability and innovation for
the major brands. It also should
continue to invest in end-to-end
garment supply chain by having
more fabric mills in-country. The
current challenges for Bangladesh
are short-term.
Bangladesh is strategically
located between India and China
with a combined population of
2.7 billion people. Over time, it
will be better for Bangladesh to
also start catering to the Asian
consumer. While profits from Asian
consumers are not as high as the
Western consumers, it will provide
the necessary balance to reduce
volatility of demand.
Some global brands are reducing
their dependence on China.
Bangladesh is going to be one of
the winners. Some business has
already been shifted and more
will come. I think the Bangladesh
Figure: Amzad Hossain Monir (Left), Head of Business Development, Textile Today;
Mohammad Al Kashem (Right), Managing Director, Coats Bangladesh Ltd with Rajiv
Sharma in the frame.
apparel industry needs to be ready
more business and a different
kind of garments in the future. For
this it needs to focus on quality,
sustainability, connectivity, ports,
custom clearance, and other
service efficiencies. These are
paramount to attract more orders
and increase the apparel export
from $43 billion to $80 billion.
Textile Today: Coats is
strengthening its presence in
the footwear industry with its
latest acquisitions of Texon and
Rhenoflex. Is this a new priority
for the business?
Rajiv Sharma: These acquisitions
increase Coats’ presence in the
highly attractive and fast-growing
athleisure footwear market. Coats
has had a very strong presence
in the footwear thread market
for many years. The two new
acquisitions will allow us to move
into adjacencies with structural
components. These structural
components allow us to be more
innovative and sustainable. The
combined footwear business will
better meet customer needs and
expectations in a fast-changing
world.
In the last few years and especially
since the pandemic, we have seen
the footwear market grow faster
than the apparel. This allows Coats
to grow in a growing footwear
market and be more value adding
for our customers.
Textile Today: How is Coats
contributing to accelerate
sustainability? What could help
drive the industry forward?
Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2022
Rajiv Sharma: The good thing
about Coats is that sustainability
has been in our DNA for the last
250 years. This is a key reason for
Coats to be a market leader for so
long.
In 2018, Coats set a series of goals
that have become the foundation
of our approach to sustainability.
We focused on ambitious targets
set under five priority areas: water,
energy, effluent & emissions, social
and materials.
Some examples of our
commitments include Coats
reducing water intensity by 40%
since 2018. We have 30% of
our global energy coming from
renewable sources and 83% of our
employees work in sites that are
certified as “Great Place to Work”.
By 2030, all products will be made
completely independently of new oil-
extraction materials such as polyester
and nylon – which is a massive
transition. Another commitment of
Coats is that by 2030, 70% of our
global energy consumption will come
from renewables.
We also made the commitment to
becoming fully Net Zero by 2050.
We have developed a roadmap to
get there and will log our progress
against a series of milestones and
open source our work to help
other companies who face similar
challenges.
The textile industry needs to come
together and collaborate more on
Sustainability. We cannot meet
our long terms goals without the
active support of our customers
and suppliers.
107
To p I n t e r v i e w Industry Best Practices

Textile Today: Among emerging
sustainability trends, we
see nature positivity. How is
Coats getting involved in this
movement?
Rajiv Sharma: Cutting the use of
new oil-extraction-based products
is one of the most effective
ways we can reduce our carbon
footprint and a current focus
of our efforts to become more
nature-positive. We have already
successfully launched a series
of eco-friendly products, with
great reception from our leading
global customers. We launched
EcoVerde, our first 100% recycled
polyester thread, in December
2018, and it currently accounts for
almost 10% of our sales.
But we want to go much further,
partly by transitioning more of our
recycled materials and partly by
innovating new solutions, such as
bio-materials that can substitute
for the materials we currently
use. EcoRegen, for example is a
100% lyocell thread that more
closely matches the material of
the garments and allows them to
be recycled without needing to
remove the stitching. On the other
hand, EcoCycle is one of the first
water dissolvable threads of its
kind, designed to dissolve when
washed at high temperatures.
Textile Today: Single-use
consumer packaging is also an
important topic. Does Coats
have any initiatives to solve this
problem?
Rajiv Sharma: Packaging is an
issue throughout the textile supply
chain. We currently use almost
8 million kg of plastic a year for
thread supports – the cones at
the centre of rolls of thread – and
that’s just one kind of packaging.
Although we are not a consumer-
facing company, we also have to
address the amount of waste we
create as a result of packaging.
We are going to do so with
three initiatives that we will
be implementing in all of our
manufacturing sites around the
world. The first is to make as much
of our packaging from recycled
materials. The second initiative is
to eliminate packaging altogether
where possible, including most
of the plastic bags and film we
currently use. The third initiative
is to work with our customers to
implement a circular programme,
in which we reuse what we
can’t eliminate – in particular, all
cardboard boxes and thread/yarn
supports. This reuse program has
the potential to reduce the volume
of new cones we buy by 60%.

Tasniah Fabrics Ltd. receives

Cradle to Cradle Certified® Gold
Arif Uz-Zaman

Tasniah Fabrics Ltd., A Sister Concern of Masco To certify an ingredient or product under the Cradle
Group has been certified as “C2C (Cradle to Cradle) to Cradle Certified® Product Standard, or to obtain
Gold”. Now it can manufacture C2C (Cradle to Cradle an ingredient health certificate, companies must
Gold) products for any Customer. Cradle to Cradle work with a qualified independent assessment
Certified® is the world’s most advanced science-based, organization to ensure that an ingredient or product
multi-attribute certification program for designing, meets the requirements of the standard.
making and verifying materials and products that are
A growing number of global brands, organizations and
safe, circular and responsibly made.
standards recognize C2C as a preferred product standard
This certificate covers 100% Cotton, 99% Cotton & for responsible purchasing. For more than a decade,
1% Roica, 98% & Cotton 2% Roica, 99% Cotton & 1% Cradle to Cradle Certified® has been helping companies
Lycra, 98% Cotton 2% Lycra, Hemp Denim and Linen to innovate and optimize materials and products that
Denim products and which are available in Indigo, care about environmental and social impacts.
Black Bottoming, Black and Grey color.
Cradle to Cradle Certified products are certified
based on their performance across five key areas
of sustainability: material health, product circularity,
clean air and climate protection, water and soil
stewardship, and social justice. Apparel for Future by
Tasnia including Men’s, Women’s, and Children’s knit
garments with Cotton, Cotton & Elastane, Cotton with
Viscose blend fake mallenge using various weight,
fabric constructions and finishes has achieved Platinum
in the material health category and Gold in material
re-utilization, renewable energy & carbon management,
Figure: Tasniah Fabrics Ltd., A Sister Concern of Masco Group
water stewardship and social fairness. has been Certified as “C2C (Cradle to Cradle) Gold”.

108 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2022

1 million spindles
Autocoro.

Three generations have paved the

way for 10 years of success:
Autocoro 8, Autocoro 9, Autocoro 10

Autocoro is tailored to meet the

requirements of the circular
economy. It is perfectly suited for
spinning yarn from recycled and
regenerated fibres.

saurer.com
Advertorial
The right spindle to make the difference
Novibra Story
Spindles are at the core of
spinning machines and play a
crucial role in their performance.
With an impact on productivity,
quality, energy saving or work
environment, selecting the right
spindle for an application is key.
Thanks to Novibra’s wide range
of spindles, finding the perfect
spindle is child’s play.
Figure 1: The wide range of Novibra spindles
covers any requirement.
As the leader in spindle
technology, Novibra offers a great
selection of innovative and high-
performance spindles (Fig. 1).
First-ever spindle to run at 30
000 rpm – NASA HPS 68
Famous for extending service
periods, reducing noise level and
ensuring maximum durability,
Novibra’s flagship and best-seller
NASA HPS 68 (Fig. 2), already
convinced premium machine
manufacturers such as Rieter,
Toyota or top-class Chinese
producers.
Installations in the optimum range
for NASA HPS 68 – at medium to
fine yarn counts and 20 000 to
30 000 rpm speed – represent
a completely different type of
load on the spindle than coarse
yarn count applications. Smaller
repeated loads at high frequency
occur causing micro vibrations.
Therefore, a chamber filled with
lifetime grease was introduced as
a second damping system. Noise is
thus significantly reduced, making the
spinning mill a better place to work.
Reliable solution for medium and
fine yarn counts – HPS 68
Novibra’s second best-selling
spindle, HPS 68, has been a
technical revolution in the switch
110 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2022
from conical types to spindles
with a flat tip. Its unrivalled spindle
insert constitutes a base for all
Novibra spindles of younger
generations. HPS 68 is the right
spindle to spin standard short-
staple fibers to medium and fine
yarn counts.
Although higher speeds are possible,
the spindle outperforms at speeds up
to 20 000 rpm with favorable noise
levels and long lifetime.
The right choice for coarse yarn
counts – L HPS 68
When spinning coarse yarn counts,
L HPS 68 is the right spindle. Its
unique wharve diameter of 18.5
mm ensures optimized energy
Figure 2: NASA HPS 68 on
production line – the first spindle
running at 30 000 rpm.
consumption and load on the
machine driving elements. In
most applications, a full cop and
high tension of the yarn put a
heavy load on the spindle neck
bearing – which is increased by
further imbalances occurring in the
spinning process of coarse yarns.
The special design elements of the
L HPS 68 spindle absorb heavy
loads and ensure the desired
harder damping.
The spindle mostly runs with tube
lengths from 220 to 250 mm, but
it can also be operated with tube
lengths of 280 mm, e.g. by wool
spinners. While speed increases
up to 20000 rpm are an option,
the speed is limited by the desired
yarn count and twist.
High speed and energy savings
– LENA
The latest addition to the Novibra
spindle family was especially
designed to achieve high speeds
with lowest energy consumption
and reduced noise.
LENA is the right spindle to spin
yarn counts of Ne 30 and finer,
with tube lengths up to 210 mm at
speeds up to 30 000 rpm. Thanks
to the uniquely small wharve
diameter of 17.5 mm, 4 to 6%
energy savings can be achieved.
As creating a more sustainable
future for the textile industry is
getting more and more urgent,
LENA is an attractive choice.
The right crown for every spindle
Based on the machine type,
doffing system and raw material
or yarn count, with only one goal
in mind: boosting customer’s
competitiveness, Novibra offers
countless designs from replaceable
EASYdoff to sturdy steel crowns
and from SERVOgrip (Fig. 3) to
self-cleaning CROCOdoff.
Novibra also provides customized
spindles without catching crowns for
machines without automatic doffers.
Figure 1: The wide range of Novibra
spindles covers any requirement.
However, the only optimally
selected spindles give the best
results. Yarn count, speed,
lifetime, maintenance, or energy
consumption requirements must
be considered in the selection
process. Novibra sales teams assist
customers in choosing the right
spindle to achieve the optimum
performance.
Industry Best Practices

Mosharaf Composite
showcases recycled yarn
for sustainable garments
Staff Correspondent

Mosharaf Composite Textile Mills

Ltd. – a concern of Mosharaf
Group – showcases its recycled
yarn ‘Filotex’ for sustainable
garments in the two-day – 17 and
18 September – Textile Sourcing
Meet 2022 at a hotel in Dhaka.
Mosharaf Composite Textile
Mills Ltd. is one of the largest
enterprises of Mosharaf Group is
the most modern highly-equipped
spinning mill in Bangladesh. The
spinning mil has a capacity of
110 MT Ring yarn per day, 30 MT
recycled yarn per day (color fiber
10 MT, grey color 8 MT and grey
blended 12 MT) and vortex yarn 20
MT per day with the range count
Figure: Abir, Director, Mosharaf Group (Left); Md Shah Jamal, Executive Director (Yarn
of Ne3/1 – 40/1 Count. Marketing), Mosharaf Composite Textile Mills Ltd. (2nd from Right) at the event.

A dedicated team of experts

collects knit fabric cutting waste
according to the customer’s color
requirement to sort and check
for quality. The sorted waste is
then shredded into shortened
fiber in its recycling machine. In
order to achieve high quality yarn,
the cotton fibers are mixed with
other fivers, such as (recycled)
polyester yarn, virgin cotton,
TencelTM, EcoVeroTM, Viscose or
acrylic depending on the desired
outcome. Simultaneously, different
colored fibers are mixed together
to attain the desired shade
through a mechanical process.
Its recycled Filotex yarn is playing
a revolutionary role in solving the
solid waste problem in Bangladesh
textile and apparel industry. The
company is producing luxurious
recycled products to be used for
home furnishing and upholstery
since 2014 using sophisticated
recycling technology from valuable
It is the first factory in
Bangladesh working with
‘Circular Fashion’ and 3R
(Reduce, Reuse, Recycle)
concept introduced by the
global brands. They think
out of the box to expel the
concept of solid waste and
need of virgin raw materials.
‘cutting waste’ of garments
industry.
It is the first factory in Bangladesh
working with ‘Circular Fashion’
and 3R (Reduce, Reuse, Recycle)
concept introduced by the global
brands. They think out of the box
to expel the concept of solid waste
and need of virgin raw materials.
There is a huge demand for
eco- friendly products in many
developed countries. And what
Filotex producing is absolutely
eco-friendly. The recycled
products price is a bit more than
regular same type product where
the quality is the same or better.
There is a huge possibility of these
recycled products both in the
national and international market.
Textile Sourcing Meet’ 22 is a
grand curated Networking cum
Sourcing Show co-hosted by
SOWTEX (B2B marketplace
for fashion & textile, digitizing
Sourcing of Materials, Stocks
& Vendors connecting users
to different regions across
Borders) in Joint Association
with Fashion Export Fraternity
led by Bangladesh Garment
Manufacturers & Exporters
Association (BGMEA), Bangladesh
Garment Executives Association
(BGEA) and Indian Importers
Chambers of Commerce and
Industry (IICCI).

112 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2022

C o t t o n To d a y J u t e To d a y

Jute textiles production decreases significantly

Arif Uz-Zaman

In the last two years the production of jute cloth

has decreased significantly. Jute textile millers
cited several reasons including decline in exports and
government's failure to strictly impose mandatory
packaging laws. If this continues, several jute textile
millers in the country will either be forced to close their
factories or operate at reduced capacity, they said.
Data from the Bangladesh Bureau of Statistics shows
that the overall production of jute textiles in the
2021-22 fiscal year was 2.43 lakh tons, which is about
28 percent lower than the previous year's 3.39 lakh
tons. The production in the 2020-21 financial year
was also 12 percent lower than the fiscal year 2019-
20 of 3.85 tons.
Exports of jute products also declined last year. The
Export Promotion Bureau data shows that in the
fiscal year 2021-22, total exports of jute yarn and
twine declined by 13 percent while jute sacks and
bags declined by 14 percent.
According to industry leaders, the government is
yet to make rules to make the use of jute sacks
mandatory for packing products even though the
relevant law was enacted a decade ago.
The government enacted the Packaging Act in 2010
to promote the use of eco-friendly jute products
instead of polythene or polypropylene bags. The law
would have helped if the mandatory packaging act
came into effect, they believe.
Meanwhile, due to uncontrolled stockpiling by
middlemen, the price of raw jute has been volatile
Jute textile production in lakh tons
4.0 3.85
3.63
3.5 3.39
3.0 2.43
2.5
2.0
1.5
1.0
0.5
0.0
FY 19 FY 20 FY 21 FY 22
in the last two years, leading to an increase in the
price of jute products in foreign markets. Therefore,
international buyers are now leaning towards cotton
products considering the high price of locally-made
jute textiles.
Moreover, a 2 percent source tax is imposed on
millers, which works against their competitiveness in
the global market by raising costs.
The anti-dumping duties imposed by India are also
hampering the country's exports. According to the
Ministry of Commerce, on January 5, 2017, India
imposed anti-dumping duties on imports of jute
products from Bangladesh ranging from $19 to $352
per ton through a tariff notification.
Khondaker Golam Moazzem, research director of the
Centre for Policy Dialogue urged the government
to promote the golden fibre by implementing
supportive policies as the industry was facing hurdles
on both domestic and international levels.

Nigerian textile industry to be revived with Bt cotton

NA Tania

Recently, big players in Nigeria’s
agricultural biotechnology sector
urged farmers to grow Bt cotton
to give the country’s textile
industry a shot in the arm.
As Bt cotton was already
commercialized in 2018 in the
nation, so the federal government
has stated that increased adoption
of the cotton plant variety will go
on to create many employment
opportunities in the nation.
Bt cotton is genetically modified
using bacillus thuringiensis, a
biological pesticide, making the
plant cotton variety resistant
to cotton bollworm complex,
also offers several advantages
including a higher yield of cotton
and reduced use of chemical pesticides.
According to Abdullahi Mustapha,
Director-General of the National
Agricultural Biotechnology
Development Agency (NABDA),
“Statistics indicate its peak,
between 1970 and 1990, it
comprised about 130 modern
factories and supported numerous
other ancillary firms, providing
about 350,000 direct jobs and
1.2 million indirect jobs among
farmers, suppliers, transporters,
dealers, traders, and exporters.”
Besides that, about 33 factories
remain standing, and the local
cotton industry is comatose,
primarily due to a lack of good
seeds, low yields, and high
production costs associated with
insect damage.
In terms of farmers and
stakeholders, the workshop is
designed with new trends in the
cotton industry, and there is a
need to collect the experiences of
farmers who already adopted the
Bt cotton, so as to know how to
help them achieve better results
in the production of cotton, said
Open Forum on Agricultural
Biotechnology (OFAB) country
coordinator Dr. Rose Gidado.

Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2022 113

C o t t o n To d a y
US currency notes are
made of cotton and linen
Shafiun Nahar Elma
The United States plays an essential role in the
worldwide cotton market, acting as a central
producer and exporter of cotton fiber. The United
States ranks 3rd in total cotton production and
export, behind China and India.
Figure: The currency USD is made out of 75% cotton and 25% linen.
There is an interesting fact about U.S. currency.
Currency notes are usually made of paper or wood
pulp but the U.S. dollar note is not made of paper
at all, but of a different element that will come as an
astonishment.
According to the U.S. Department of the Treasury,
the currency USD is made out of 75% cotton and
25% linen. In the United States, the USD note is the
first turn ups in the 17th century, and the first “dollar
bills” were printed about 70 years later from now.
Crane and Company, has supplied the U.S. Treasury
with paper currency since 1879. According to their
company website, U.S. currency is made with the
most durable banknote paper in the world. Currency
paper has teeny red and blue synthetic fibers of
diverse lengths evenly distributed. Red and blue silk
fibers were incorporated into the cotton-linen mix as
security. The ink used on paper money is singularly
formulated to endure fading over time. Recently, in
many one-dollar bills, linen is fast being replaced by
synthetic fibers. The formation is now about 80%
cotton and 20% synthetic fibers.
In USD bills cotton and especially linen increase
durability, flexibility, and distinctive look and feel.
This feeling cannot be replicated by wood fiber
paper. Bob Leuver, former Director of the Bureau
of Engraving and Printing said, “Cotton comes
from a softy fibrous plant or the covering of seeds
114 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2022
of the mallow genus. Oddly much of the cotton
used for currency comes from the Carolinas, where
used denim clothing or waste in denim clothing
production, is washed, bleached, and bagged. Cotton
can be harvested in other states, but denim is an
excellent source”.
Generally, the paper dollar bill would mess up too
quickly, and wouldn’t survive through a wash but the
rag fibers dollar bill does not impair when wet. The
‘rag fibers’ is the main component that is used to
make a dollar bill. The rag fiber combination is made
of cotton, linen, and versatile synthetic fibers. U.S.
currency can be folded approximately 4,100 times
before it will tear, meaning that, the circulation time
for bills is 4-10 years. Currently, almost $2.2 trillion is
in circulation across the US.
Chris Ford, PCCA’s Domestic Sales Manager said,
PCCA has been supplying cotton to make the
currency of the United States since 2007. He added
that “There are not enough motes in the U.S. so they
started buying graded cotton from Turkey. We went
through several tests for six or 8 months before they
figured out how to make it work and the pricing.
Then we started supplying them with the cotton.”
In Europe, for instance, so-called comber noils are
used for making their currency note. These are
concise cotton fibers that are a waste flux from the
textile industry.
The accurate ratio of cotton, linen, and other
materials is kept undercover sometimes and it can
vary with countries’ policies. Many countries are now
using or planning to use plastic polymer bills as an
alternative or better choice, which are even more
durable, stay cleaner, and can have security features
such as transparency. For example, the United
Kingdom is planning on switching from cotton to
polymer banknotes, The Philippines uses a unique
material for its currency 80% cotton and 20% abaca.
Everything has its pros and cons. The costs of
producing cotton and linen banknotes are lower than
for other forms of cash. The Federal Reserve spends
about 6 cents to produce per $1 USD. Sustainability
suggests recycling this currency in means of the
caloric value of cotton. Used cotton banknotes can
be a good substitute for fuel in the ceramic industry.
Another sustainable possible solution is to compost
the unfit cotton banknotes.
Cutting-edge Technology
in Waste Recovery & Humidity Control

Single-window customised solution for textile humidification

and waste collection systems.

Fully automatic system to maintain constant temperature

and RH throughout the year.

Best filtration to maintain clean environment in conformity

with all standards of health and dust content in the
production area.

Automatic continuous / intermittent waste collection systems

with under pressure controls, for cotton / synthetic or
for natural fibre, man made fibres and blends.

Automatic / semi-automatic waste baling systems.

System available in civil construction and

Prefabricated Housing.

Batliboi International Ltd.

Dubash House, 2nd Floor, 15 J.N. Heridia Road,
Ballard Estate, Mumbai -400 001. India
Phone : +91.22.6637 8200 • Mobile: +91.91676 67713
Email : santanu.bera@batliboi.com • Web: www.batliboi.com
Advertorial
Field Tests Confirm High Performance
of New Accotex Aprons
BTT Interview
The latest Accotex apron
NO-79201 is made from new
compounds that deliver longer life
and better performance. Flexible
enough to work with all fiber types
across ring and compact-spinning
machines, field trials show better
resistance throughout a 12-month
spinning cycle. The NO-79201
is available in a wide range of
dimensions as top and bottom
aprons for all kinds of applications.
Figure 1: Accotex NO-79201 is available
in a wide range of dimensions as top and
bottom apron for all kinds of applications.
The Accotex NO-79201 (Fig. 1) is a
new generation of aprons for ring
and compactspinning machines.
It is made of two aligned rubber
compounds which deliver a high
abrasion and crack resistant
spinning apron. The mechanical
robustness of the rubber
compounds allows effective use
on all ring and compact-spinning
machines, working with all fiber
types and within the whole
spectrum of yarn counts. The
excellent friction properties of the
compound contribute to a smooth
and even running over the whole
service life of the apron, especially
at the start-up of machines.
Superior friction behavior
The new Accotex NO-79201 was
tested for 12 months at a customer
in the USA, alongside the already
116 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2022
existing NO-78210GX,
the NO-78210G
and a competitor’s
apron (Fig. 2). The
friction value of the
different aprons was
measured over the
whole apron life in
regular frequencies.
Each column reflects
Fig. 3: Accotex NO-79201 can also be supplied with
the individual friction a knurled inner layer, for increased service life
value of the inner
layer evaluated on NO-79201 can be supplied with
representative apron samples a plain inside or a specially
from the field test at 3, 6, 9 and 12 configured inner layer pattern,
months. After 12 months running, known as a knurled version (Fig
the inner layer friction of the new 3). The main benefit of the knurled
NO-79201 is nearly unchanged, apron is to provide less contact
confirming the smooth and even area to the nose bar, which enables
running over the whole service life lower torque, and thus less stress
of the apron. This superior friction on the bottom roller bearings.
behavior has also been reported This also allows the inside
from other Accotex customers structured apron to run clean
across the world, processing on so-called “dirty” fibers and
different fiber types, blends and to work efficiently in demanding
yarn counts. Besides, these trial environmental conditions in terms
customers have noticed far fewer of fiber cleanliness. The knurled
broken bottom aprons than they apron is available with diameters
would normally expect. of 72.5, 76.3 and 79.0 mm.
Different versions for flexible use Overall, the new Accotex NO-
79201 spinning apron provides
The Accotex apron NO-79201
improved performance for ring
is available in a wide range of
and compact-spinning with less
dimensions as top and bottom
machine downtime. Its flexible
aprons for all kinds of applications.
application may also reduce
It comes as closed apron, skived
stocking levels and simplify
bottom apron or skived and
servicing regimes.
pre-glued bottom apron. The
Figure 2: The new apron NO-79201 shows nearly unchanged inner layer friction,
confirming unmatched performance over time.

Figure: Sourcing fabric is an
early step in the manufacturing
process, and it’s a critical one.
Sourcing fabric is an early step in
the manufacturing process, and
it’s a critical one. If the responsible
parties have difficulty finding
quality fabric suppliers, that
challenge could disrupt all other
associated production timelines.
Asking the right questions of
suppliers is also essential because
more consumers are starting
to think carefully about what
happens behind the scenes in the
clothing industry.
Are the fabrics durable enough to
serve their intended purposes and
meet or exceed the expected life
span? Can the materials tolerate
standard wash cycles? Do their
components make them stain-
resistant or moisture-wicking? Was
the fabric sourced in sustainable
and responsible ways?
Here are some vital questions
people should ask as they engage
with fabric suppliers.
1. Do you have relationships with
local quality fabric suppliers?
Sourcing fabric made locally is
not always possible. However, it’s
becoming an increasingly popular
selling point for many consumers.
Moreover, some fashion retailers
have prioritized localization in their
sourcing efforts.
Pick ‘n Pay Clothing is a South
African retailer with more than
1,600 stores. It hopes to reach
a target of 60% locally sourced
clothing by 2028. Nearly 40%
118 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2022
4 Important
questions to
ask when
sourcing fabric
Emily Newton, Editor In Chief at Revolutionized
of the retailer’s apparel sales
currently meet that criteria. That’s
an example of how other people
responsible for sourcing fabric
could set similar benchmarks
to work towards within their
operations.
This effort has reportedly created
approximately 700 local jobs.
It has also taught people at the
company to be more resourceful.
Sourcing clothing materials
became more challenging during
the COVID-19 pandemic. Thus,
the health crisis pushed company
leaders to more heavily utilize a
local supply network.
Doing that helped ensure products
were available when customers
wanted them. The initiative has
already paid off in profitability, too.
Several of the company’s clothing
categories had sales increases of
up to 21% in 2021.
If a supplier does not yet have
a localized network, that’s not
necessarily a reason to decline
to work with them. However,
obtaining more products closer
to home has numerous benefits
that could help a fashion brand
strengthen its marketplace
position.
2. How much experience do you
have sourcing clothing material?
It’s also important to learn about
and verify how long a potential
supplier has been sourcing fabric.
Ample experience increases the
Experts Views
likelihood that a supply chain
partner will be able to navigate
any challenges that arise.
As people spend more time in the
industry, they’ll also naturally learn
better supply chain management
practices that help them become
more resilient against potential
shocks. For example, Coca-Cola
uses data aggregation to ensure
500 million beverages are in
vending machines when they’re
needed. Over time, professionals
specializing in sourcing fabric will
also realize which methods work
for them.
As people gain experience in the
industry, they’ll also grow their
networks, potentially making it
easier if one of their raw materials
suppliers has a shortage or a
similar difficulty. Statistics also
suggest parties can see up to a
40% warehouse throughput boost
by deploying effective supply
chain management strategies.
Increased productivity, enhanced
order processing, and faster
customs clearance are some
notable benefits of using proven
supply chain improvement tactics.
3. Do you focus on sustainability
when sourcing fabric?
Today, many big-name fashion
retailers, including Primark and
H&M, are giving customers more
options for sustainable fabrics in
their clothing for sale. However,
as many people who look deeper
 Experts Views

into the sustainability issue realize,
striking the right balance between
eco-friendliness and other
necessities is not easy.
Some of the most sustainable
fabrics have characteristics
that make working with them
difficult. Also, widely available
blended fabrics are often soft and
comfortable to wear but not as
kind to the planet as other options.
People must also assess the fabric-
processing methods associated
with certain materials. How much
water and energy do they require?
Sustainability also extends to how
well the fabric will stand up to
wear and washing over the months
and years a person owns it.
The European Union is also
working on laws concerning the
use of single-fiber fabrics. In
March, the European Commission
published a plan to make
more clothes last longer and
be recyclable, plus made from
recycled materials when possible.
The prioritization of single-fiber
fabrics is a significant part of
those goals. Blended materials are
typically harder to recycle because
of the challenges associated with
separating the fabrics.
4. What fabric-sourcing
information do I need before
placing an order?
Most companies that help
customers with sourcing fabrics
have established yardage-based
minimums for their orders.
Reputable fabric suppliers will be
transparent about those specifics.
Procurers should take the time
to learn about what they must
order and the average fulfillment
timeframes. They also must figure
out how much they can feasibly
buy at once and the expected
frequency of repeat orders.
Sourcing clothing material is often
more manageable when suppliers
offer sample yardage. Purchasers
can then feel more confident that
certain options will meet their
needs. If that’s not possible, the
people responsible for sourcing
fabric should ask for swatches
or headers. Those will be helpful
when engaging with stakeholders
about the possibilities.
Once people have narrowed down
which fabrics they want to buy,
most suppliers will ask for details
like the style numbers or colors of
the requested items. That’s why
it’s important to write down that
information and take suppliers’
business cards, especially while
visiting events such as textile
shows.
Following up with fabric suppliers
after meeting them is also
essential. Such organizations
often get very busy after having
a presence at industry events.
Representatives may not take the
initiative to contact you, even if
the in-person discussion seemed
very productive.
Start sourcing fabric like a pro
The task of sourcing clothing
materials and forming strong
relationships with quality fabric
suppliers requires ongoing
dedication. These questions will
get people off to a good start in
finding the materials they need.

Cute Dress invites BAYLA team to

promote knowledge sharing culture
Shohel Ahmed

Cute dress industry Ltd. recently diversification, BAYLA visited cute

invited Bangladesh Apparel Youth
Leaders Association (BAYLA) to
spread knowledge amongst the
young generation.
Cute Dress is a sustainable
knitwear manufacturing unit in
Bangladesh that has been striving
to minimize the use of natural
resources.
The factory is made under
the guidance of the US Green
Building Council (USGBC) and
has achieved an excellent rating
point on Leadership in Energy and
Environmental Design (LEED).
By aiming to increase the market
potential of the garment industry
through the development and
dress.
Sheikh H M Mustafiz, Managing
Director, Cute Dress Industry
Limited said, “It is always great to
see the young generation want to
learn more and want to contribute
more to national econ-omy.”
Along with the target of research,
capacity building through training,
increasing productivity and
Figure: Cute dress industry Ltd. recently
creating new opportunities. invited Bangladesh Apparel Youth Leaders
Association (BAYLA) to spread knowledge
Also, Bayla is to coordinate and amongst the young generation.
unite all the leading organizations
the experience of the elders.
in the garment industry, with
Abrar Hossain Sayem, President,
interest and diligent efforts,
BAYLA and Vice Presidents,
Notably, this non-political
Directors of BAYLA were present
organization is a combination of
at the factory visit.
the enthusiasm of the youth and

Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2022 119

News & Analysis
BTMA concerns over
banks avoid LC opening
Sayed Abdullah
Bangladesh Textile Mills
Association (BTMA) recently
expressed worry that most
commercial banks avoid opening
letter of credit (LC) under Export
Development Fund (EDF), UPAS
(Usance Payable at Sight) and
deferred-payment systems for
US$ scarcities which, textile
spinners dread, may harm and
lead to production holdup of basic
readymade garments (RMG) raw
material.
Banks shun to opening LC under
EDF, UPAS & deffered-payment
system. Spinners may run 3-4
months with existing raw-material
stock. BTMA urge BB to take
needed actions & instruct banks
accordingly.
The BTMA letter, signed by its
President Mohammad Ali Khokon,
to the Bangladesh Bank highlights
that in such a state domestic
spinning mills will have to continue
production over the next couple of
months only with the present raw
materials in stock.
Mohammad Ali Khokon said that
BTMA members cannot import
the necessary raw materials like
cotton, polyester staple fiber (PSF)
and viscose staple fiber (VSF) to
feed the RMG exporters though
the millers already received orders.
“Diminishing stocks of raw
materials amid commercial banks’
reluctance to open LCs might
ruthlessly obstruct production
and exports of textile and apparel
items,” BTMA President said in the
letter.
Usually, Bangladeshi textile mills
stock four to five months of raw
material – cotton, PSF and VSF
on a regular basis – for constant
production and exports, Khokon
points out, highlighting that it also
takes three to four months to get
imported raw materials.
“As per data we have, mills might
run production for the next three
months with their existing raw-
material stocks.”
BTMA worries that spinning
mills operations might come to
a crashing halt if banks don’t
open LC for raw material imports,
leading to yarn absence. The
production interruption will not
only extend the existing USD crisis
but also upset the export earnings
of the country. On top of that,
increasing unemployment of many
workers.
Spinners
may run 3-4
months with
existing raw-
material stock
BTMA demanded the central
bank to take needed actions
and instruct the commercial
banks accordingly as regards the
opening of LC under EDF, UPAS
and deferred systems.
When asked, echoing Khokon’s
views, Humayun Kabir Salim,
Managing Director, Khantex
Fashion Ltd. said to Textile Today,
“Most of the apparel factories
back-to-back LC date has been
expired or overdue – as the RMG
orders are not shipped. While
banks pressuring manufacturers
for payments making us suffer in
an unimaginable way.”
Mohammad Hatem, Executive Vice
President of Bangladesh Knitwear
Manufacturers and Exporters
Association (BKMEA), said to
media, “Under UPAS system banks
are receiving delayed payments, in
many cases after 150 days, while
they have to wait up to one and
a half months to settle regards
to EDF which usually takes three
days. Many banks, currently, are
unwilling to open LCs under
these systems mainly because of
dollar crisis that results in delayed
payments.”
Banks shun to opening LC
under EDF, UPAS & deffered-
payment system
BTMA urge BB to take
needed actions & instruct
banks accordingly
Advertorial
Economical compact-spinning
using state-of-the-art technology
Suessen Story
The COMPACTeasy mechanical
compacting system from Suessen
addresses the need for higher
productivity and cost optimization
in compact spinning. The system
can spin high-quality yarn from all
common raw materials – at a high
speed. Low investment cost, less
energy consumption and minimal
maintenance make COMPACTeasy
an attractive alternative to
pneumatic systems for spinning
mills.
Figure 1: The y-channel in the compactor
enables intense double compacting for all
yarn counts.
Saving energy and cost are
decisive factors for spinning mills
today. Most spinning systems
require both a high level of initial
investment as well as considerable
operating cost. While compact
spinning is appreciated for its
excellent yarn quality and high
productivity, it can also be very
cost-intensive, especially with
pneumatic compacting systems
requiring a lot of electricity.
Unmatched compact-spinning
quality
Continually striving to push
boundaries of innovation, Suessen
developed COMPACTeasy, a
Figure 2: COMPACTeasy retainer with
COMPACTeasy roller, easy-spring, and
compactor with y-channel.
122 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2022
mechanical compacting solution
that offers low investment cost
without compromising on quality.
It produces yarns with excellent
characteristics from a broad
range of raw materials, such as
cotton and man-made fibers,
as well as their blends. With a
count range from Ne 20 to Ne
60, COMPACTeasy covers most
applications.
The recipe for success
COMPACTeasy guides fibers
through the y-channel of the
compactor with precision,
which results in intensive double
compacting (Fig. 1) without any
additional energy requirements
compared to ring spinning.
Figure 3: Transmission of the traverse motion
to the compactor (view from the rear).
Compared to other mechanical
systems, the compacting channel
of COMPACTeasy is much wider, so
it is less prone to clogging. Thanks
to the traverse motion of the
compactor (Fig. 3), the lifetime of
cots is extended resulting in lower
maintenance requirements and
constant and durable yarn quality.
This is a considerable advantage
compared to flipping the front top
roller, which is what mechanical
systems usually require.
Sophisticated technology for less
wear and tear
The device consists of a front
top-roller retainer and the smaller
COMPACTeasy roller (Fig. 2). The
compactor features the y-channel
and the preceding pin and is
located between the two top
rollers. The compactor spring uses
a low spring force to press the
compactor against the bottom
roller. This causes considerably less
wear and tear on the compactor
than magnetically loaded
compacting elements.
Figure 4: COMPACTeasy can be installed in
new and existing ring spinning machines.
The yarn quality is determined
by both the y-channel of the
compactor and the integrated
pin, which takes effect precisely
in the zone of the drafting system
where the fibers have the least
guidance. This process improves
yarn irregularity and increases
yarn tenacity. Hairiness is also
significantly reduced and often
achieves better results than
pneumatic compacting systems.
Flexibility and compatibility
COMPACTeasy can be added
to the specifications for new
ring spinning machines (Fig. 4).
Furthermore, machines that have
already been installed can easily
be retrofitted. COMPACTeasy
enables production to be switched
from ring to compact yarn by
simply installing or removing
the compacting device on a ring
spinning machine.
Suessen customers are not just
impressed by COMPACTeasy’s low
investment and operating cost,
they also appreciate the very high
yarn tenacity and consistency, as
well as the ability to produce a
wide range of fibers and counts.
 Figure 1: Murata Machinery Ltd. team.

Murata Vortex Seminar 2022

showcases its groundbreaking
sustainable spinning system
for the apparel makers
Staff Correspondent

Murata Machinery Ltd. organized Murata Vortex
Seminar 2022 – to showcase its groundbreaking
‘Vortex yarn’ for the Bangladesh apparel industry
at Radisson Blu hotel in Dhaka. Around 200 guests
from leading brands, buying house, sourcing
companies & spinners joined in the knowledge
sharing grand event.
Bangladesh readymade garment (RMG) industry
is globally leading with its manufacturing apparel
items. The Vortex yarn standout in making fashion
apparels due to its various unique features, the
Vortex Seminar 2022 displayed Vortex yarn’s
high quality value-added yarn with high function
and fashion applicability. Thus, Murata sees huge
potential for the Bangladesh market. As the industry
is changing rapidly and all the well-known fashion
brands and retailers are moving more value-added
and technical garments to Bangladesh.
The seminar stressed on recent challenges the
textile factories are facing glitches in apparel
products like Hairiness in surface which creates
Pilling, Non-durable garments, Spirality etc. The yarn
Vortex in the textile & apparel sector has brought
up innovative creation along with new application
methods. This advanced type of yarn has brought
out an impressive feature in textile performances.
The unique structure of fibers are controlled in this
yarn to make this for special performance in textiles.
The seminar successfully highlighted Vortex yarn’s
reliability, high quality products and its exciting
values, as well as, environmental-friendliness to the
industry.
Shunya Okumura, Sales & Marketing Representative,
Murata Machinery Ltd. hosted the program and
welcomed all the guests to attend the knowledge
sharing session.
Engr. Salahuddin Ahamed, General Manager of
Murata Machinery Bangladesh Ltd. shared the
periodical progress of the spinning process in the
industry. He also added “Over 20 countries around
the world have used Vortex yarn to promote their
products to apparel and distribution companies. And
global brands are increasingly using Vortex yarn. So,
it is high time for the country’s apparel makers to
use Vortex yarn. Bangladesh apparel makers mostly
export cotton made garments while the global
market is flourishing with manmade fiber. To remain
competitive in the apparel exporting destinations—
Bangladesh should go for more and more value
added apparel production. And here the Vortex yarns
can be the top choice to make value added items
securing the markets.”

124 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2022

E v e n t To d a y

Vortex Sales adviser Engr. Rafiqul Islam & Engr.

Khokan, Senior Eng. of Murata Machinery Bangladesh
Ltd. said, “Compare to open-end and ring yarn,
Vortex offers much better quality and excellent
anti-pilling features. Its yarn is a twist structure and
all fibers start from the center of the yarn and run
outward. The inside and outside of yarn are made
up of different function. Also, each and every fiber
in Vortex yarn tends to be in the center and wraps
up to the surface by the air. This structure leads to
the fact about ‘least hairiness’ amongst all spinning Figure 2: Around 200 guests from leading brands, buying house,
systems. Least hairiness reduces the fluff and dust sourcing companies & spinners joined in the knowledge sharing
grand event.
generation in the next process. Printing and dyeing
also take advantage of these characteristics.” Shuichi Hashimoto, Assistant Manager, Murata
“Pilling is a phenomenon where fibers are twisted Machinery Ltd. presented a resourceful presentation
into ball-like structures by friction between the on the sustainability & e-commerce aspects and how
surface of a fabric and another fabric or object. Vortex technology designed to meet such aspects.
Because Vortex has less long hairs and is naturally He also addressed – how this technology can help
stable due to its structure, the fibers are secure spinners in terms of reducing the plastic products,
from movement resulting in reduced pilling,” added carbon footprint and contributing SDGs goal.
Khokan. In the closing address Takuji Yamaoka, Area Manager
“In addition, Vortex yarn has less lint shedding, less (Southeast Asia & Bangladesh) said, “Bangladesh
fabric shrinkage, less fabric skew and less color loss RMG industry—the second largest exporter in the
caused by repeated wash and dry, when compared world–is globally renowned for its quality apparel
with the yarn by other spinning processes.” items. Murata Machinery Ltd. wants to show the
potential of Vortex yarn usage to its existing and
“Vortex can be spun with various other materials
prospective clients in the upcoming knowledge
such as cotton, synthetic fiber, regenerated fiber and
sharing grand event. Vortex yarn with its various
blended fiber. So, Vortex yarn has various functional
unique features and structures creating special
uses and provides the yarn with a wide range of
performance in textiles along with its high function
functionalities. Many value-added or differentiated
and fashion acceptability.”
products have been developed all over the world by
using Vortex yarns. The functionality of Vortex yarn In the program some customers of Murata Machinery
is offering the Bangladeshi apparel makers plenty of Ltd. - Square Textiles Ltd, Pahartali Textile And
applications from apparel and distribution to product Hosiery Mills Ltd, Panama Composite Textile Mills
development proposals,” Khokan concluded. Ltd, N.R. Group and Matin Spinning Mills showcased
their Vortex yarn made products in the event from
In the program most of the Vortex machine users
their respective booths. Textile Today was the media
from Bangladesh attended the program and
partner of the program and also exhibited in the
displayed their fabric samples through Vortex yarn.
program.
To share the practical experience, challenges &
benefits of the Vortex running in the factory – 3
Vortex users - N.R. Group, Square Textiles Ltd and
Matin Spinning Mills Ltd – also spoke in the program.
All the 3 companies mainly addressed how Vortex
helped them to produce a new range of yarn for
developing value-added garments to contribute to
the country’s export earnings. As Vortex technology
saves energy, water and resources and diversifies
into new product ranges – most of the users are also
planning to enhance Vortex yarn production capacity
considering the demand & response from the leading
buyers.
S. M. Kafee Bipul, Manager (Sales & Marketing),
Murata Machinery Bangladesh Ltd. introduced all
the valued Vortex users in his presentation and
Figure 3: Customers of Murata Machinery Ltd. - Square Textiles
shared their production capacity and special fabrics
Ltd, Pahartali Textile And Hosiery Mills Ltd, Panama Composite
produced by Vortex technology. Textile Mills Ltd, N.R. Group and Matin Spinning Mills showcased
their Vortex yarn made products.

Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2022 125

C o t t o n To d a y
Cotton – the unique natural fiber
Uster Story
World Cotton Day – on October 7
every year is a celebration of the
world’s most important natural
fiber. It’s a good time to take a
closer look at cotton from all the
different angles – the growers and
traders, spinners, fashion addicts
and even museum visitors.
Figure 1: On October 7 every year is a
celebration of the world’s most important
natural fiber.
This article is dedicated to cotton,
a unique fiber. It is a true multi-
talent: from jeans to banknotes
(US paper money is made with
75% cotton and 25% linen), it is
almost unthinkable to imagine
our everyday life without cotton.
The fluffy fiber is found in many
different products as an ideal and
much-appreciated raw material.
Measured for value
Cotton can be precisely described
with 14 quality characteristics
– focusing on length, strength,
fineness, color, maturity, trash and
moisture content of the fiber. The
value of cotton as a raw material
depends on its quality. Key
factors are long and uniform fiber
length, optimal fineness for each
application and high strength for
precious fibers.
Some cotton growers and traders
rely on their years of experience
to set the right price for a batch
of cotton, but over half of world
cotton production is classed
objectively by High Volume
Instruments (HVI) from Uster
Technologies. The HVI provides
126 Bangladesh Textile Today | October 2022
the most accurate and repeatable
test results for the efficient
classification of cotton quality –
and more than 3,300 units are
installed in 70 countries.
Measured for bale mix and
efficiency
For spinning mills, cotton
purchasing accounts for more than
50% of costs. Consistent data from
HVI is the first step in successful
production in spinning operations
– in terms of both quality and cost.
Fiber testing is essential during
the spinning preparation stages,
to minimize any negative
financial impact of excess waste,
unnecessary cuts, reworking, and
customer claims.
Another fiber measurement
instrument is responsible for
profitable production: Uster AFIS
Pro 2 provides the essential data
necessary for modern process
optimization techniques.
100% cotton
The cotton story goes back over
5,000 years. Today, cotton fiber is
found in clothing and cosmetics
items. Applications span the
invention of toilet paper to the
recycling of denim pants into
vehicle construction components.
100% cotton is printed on tags of
countless items of clothing and
on signposts leading to a special
exhibition at the Übersee-Museum
(overseas museum) in Bremen,
Germany. The exhibition offers a
fascinating look at cotton’s cultural
history and shares surprising, new,
but also controversial stories about
the soft fiber.
Uster is proud that the curators of
the Übersee-Museum considered
the HVI as part of cotton’s
essential history. The Uster cotton
classing instrument was selected
as an exhibit and visitors have the
opportunity to try their hand as a
cotton tester to determine color,
length and price.
The Bremen Cotton Exchange has
been shaping the global cotton trade
through its competence, neutrality
and authority for 150 years.
Everlasting
The first evidence of cotton use
was found in India and Pakistan,
and dates back to around 6,000
B.C. That means cotton’s been
keeping people dressed for over
8,000 years.
During the covid situation, the
need for smart office wear was
replaced by an increased emphasis
on comfort in everyday clothing. This
sparked a trend for ‘sofa to street’
apparel which is still here today.
People clearly love the gentler touch
of their cotton gear, and that has
translated into a real fashion choice.
India was the foremost cotton
processing country for hundreds
of years, and it’s fitting that its
traditions with the world’s favorite
fiber still hold good today.
High-technology instruments,
systems and services cover quality
control, prediction, certification
and optimization. The portfolio
comprises quality management,
laboratory testing and in-line
process control instruments for
fibers, staple fiber, and filament
yarns, fabrics and nonwovens.
Uster Statistics, the unique
global benchmarks for textile
trading, complement a portfolio
of value-added services that
includes training, consultancy and
worldwide after-sales.
The Uster philosophy aims to drive
innovation forward by meeting
market needs – always with
‘quality in mind’.
Uster Technologies is headquartered
in Uster, Switzerland and operates
worldwide. It has sales and service
subsidiaries in major markets
and Technology Centers in Uster
(Switzerland), Knoxville (USA),
Suzhou (China) and Caesarea
(Israel).