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ARCHAEOLOGY
AND
PHOTOGRAPHY
For Josh Pollard
CONTENTS
List of Illustrations
Notes on Contributors
Preface
8 Photographing buildings
James Dixon
9 Photographing graffiti
Alex Hale and Iain Anderson
The book has developed from two sessions convened by the editors
– first at the Royal Anthropological Institute’s conference on
Anthropology and Photography at the British Museum in May 2014,
and then at the European Association of Archaeologists annual
conference in Glasgow in September 2015.
We want to thank Duncan Shields, Melania Savino, Charlotte
Young, Colleen Morgan, Danae Fioroe, Ursula Frederick, Carolyn
Lefley, Helen Wickstead and Martyn Barber for being part of the
conversations that led towards this book, as it moved away from a
focus on art towards a more archaeological set of engagements, and
to Douglass Bailey for his comments in Glasgow and since. We are
indebted to the organizing committees of both of the conferences for
facilitating the conversations and exchanges that have led to the
current book.
This work would not have been possible without our exposure to
the pioneering work in Visual Anthropology and innovative studies of
photography in Archaeology and Art History, and we are therefore
indebted for inspiration to Elizabeth Edwards, Chris Pinney, Danny
Miller, Nick Mirzoeff, Sarah James, Mirjam Brusius, Chris Morton, and
Clare Harris. We dedicate this book to Josh Pollard, with thanks for
everything over the years.
Such – the position in italics above – has been the orthodoxy with
which our theme, Archaeology and Photography, came to be
established as a trope in the archaeo-theory of fin de siècle
Representational Archaeology. It is an orthodoxy that this book aims
to invert. We are thinking beyond the dogma of the contemporary
past, the absent present, the sheer artefactualism of a superficial
symbolism, bolstered here and there through partial readings of the
work of Roland Barthes, which has reduced each side of this pairing
to an analogy for the other. Michael Shanks even repurposed Jim
Deetz’s neologism, Archaeography, to express the idea of some post-
disciplinary hybridity in the interpretation of the past. Whereas in
most areas of cultural studies during the 1980s, Photography came
to represent not so much a technical or cultural practice but a
theoretical metaphor, in Archaeology it has come to index the
methodological fetishization of the artefact as a trace (cf. Krauss
1999: 290; Dubois 2016) – a foundational analogy for the idea that
Archaeology represents the past in the present. As if Archaeology
and Photography were some version of classical reception studies for
visual and material culture – as if trapped inside Fenton’s Gallery of
Antiquities forever.
This book experiments with some alternative accounts of
observation and participation in Archaeology and Photography. It
understands modern technologies and modes of thought as objects
of archaeological enquiry, resources for the future not just
hegemonies from the past (cf. Hicks and Beaudry 2006; Hicks 2016).
It seeks to problematize the artefactualist-presentist assertion of the
Representational Archaeology that our discipline works with mere
nonhuman ruins and remnants of past moments that are received
and interpreted in the symmetry of a contemporary moment (see
Shanks 1992; Hamilakis 2008; Bohrer 2011; Hamilakis and Ifantidis
2013, 2016; Carabott et al. 2015; cf. Hicks 2003). It understands
Archaeology as a visual medium, in which things are discovered and
made visible, not just socially constructed or and culturally
represented. Rather than reducing Archaeology and Photography to
analogies to each other, collapsing one into a metaphor for the other,
playing the mirror games of object and subject, of past and present
as signifier and signified, we explore some of the different ways in
which Archaeology and Photography can live together, and can
intervene in the world.
Three main themes are at stake. In each case, we explore how to
imagine alternatives to the Representational Archaeology. First, the
different approaches to Objectivity assembled here start to question
Barthes’ assertion that the passage from object to image is ‘at no
time a transformation’, imagining the human past and its material
evidence as far more contingent (Hicks 2010; Hicks and Beaudry
2010). Second, the question of the Archive is framed not in
comparative terms, where archaeological remnants are understood
to be photographic in quality, but in terms of coexistence and mutual
identification of these two methods where archaeological knowledge
is unstable (Hicks 2013) – as if, as Bergson put it for science and
philosophy, they were ‘meant to implement each other’ (Bergson
1965 [1922]: 5). And third, a close examination of Time in
Archaeology and Photography questions ideas of perceptions of
short moments of time in the instant and the snapshot, and thus
problematizes any notion of constellations of these as ‘multi-
temporality’ (cf. Hicks 2016). If the camera is ‘a clock for seeing’, as
Barthes has it (1980: 33), then we might take the time to listen to
‘the living sound of the wood’ beyond the instant, in the swing, one
tick after another.
The method of making the parrot is similar to that described for the
horse and rider, and the color scheme is suggested in Fig. 2.
It will be noticed that no attempt is made to secure a lifelike, or
realistic, effect in painting these toy shapes. All colors are flat, that is,
without light and shade. The toys are really decorative designs, and
the maker is at liberty to use any colors desired, whether natural or
not.
The horse and rider is balanced on the hind foot, as shown in Fig.
6, by using a lead weight, attached to a ¹⁄₁₆-in. wire, as a
counterweight. The wire should be set into the body of the horse,
behind the foreleg, to a depth of ³⁄₄ in. The weight of the metal and
the curve of the wire should be adjusted to obtain the proper
balance. The parrot is balanced in the same way, except that the
weight is fixed to the end of the tail, which is curved like the wire.
These and other homemade toys or gifts may be sent or contained
appropriately in boxes decorated to match them, as shown in Fig. 7.
They may be made complete, or commercial boxes of suitable sizes
may be covered and decorated. If good materials are used, such a
box makes a pretty and useful gift in itself. The complete process of
making a typical box is described for those who prefer to make one
of special size. The dimensions given are thus only suggestive, and
may be adapted to suit particular needs.
FIG. 8
Color Schemes may be Obtained from Flowers and Other Natural Forms,
or by Selecting a Combination of Harmonious Shades. The Background
Is of Plum-Colored Paper; the Small Circles are Emerald-Green; the Light
Area, Yellow, and the Ovals, Orange-Red
FIG. 9
The Various Steps in the Process of Making and Covering a Rectangular
Cardboard Box are Shown in Detail. The Method of Making a Pattern for the
Design is shown Below
The box is made as follows: Determine upon the proper size and
select materials to carry out the design. An appropriate combination
of colors and materials is suggested in Fig. 8. Cut out a square of the
cardboard, having sides 12¹⁄₂ in. long, as shown in Fig. 9, at G, then
mark it as indicated and cut on the full line to remove the square
corners. Crease it on the dotted lines and fold to form a box. To hold
the cardboard in box shape, strips of bond paper—ordinary writing
paper—are cut, 3³⁄₄ in. long and 1 in. wide, then creased along their
centers and pasted to the corners. The paste should be applied to
the paper strip first, then on the corners of the box. Apply the piece
of paper over the corner of the box on the outside, pressing it to
make a snug fit. Repeat this operation on the other corners.
Lay off the dimensions given at H on the selected color of cover
paper, which in this instance is plum, and score the lines indicated.
Spread paste smoothly over the surface of the plum paper, between
the lines drawn ³⁄₈ in. from the long edges, and then spread a thin
layer of paste over the outer surface of one of the sides of the box.
Apply the paper to the pasted surface and press it down, rubbing
gently out from the center to remove air bubbles. Fold the ³⁄₈-in. laps
at the top and bottom over the upper edge of the box and around the
lower corner. Repeat this process, covering the four sides. To form a
smooth fold at the corners, it is best to miter the paper as shown at J
and K, before pasting it down. Then paste a square of the same
paper 4⁷⁄₈ in. wide on the bottom of the box, taking care to match the
edges evenly all around.
Line the box with a strip of lining paper, 20 in. long and 4 in. wide.
Try the lining by folding it into the box so that its upper edge is about
¹⁄₈ in. from the edge of the box, and crease it carefully into the
corners. Remove it, apply paste, and press it well into the corners
when pasting it down. Paste a square of the same paper, 4⁷⁄₈ in
wide, in the bottom of the box.
The cover is made by the same process as the main portion of the
box. The dimensions of the cardboard are shown at L, and the
covering at M. It should be observed that the cover is slightly wider
than the box, so that it will fit easily.
When the box is thoroughly dry, it is ready to receive the
decorations on the top and sides. The design may be adapted from a
leaf, flower, or similar form, as well as from geometric or animal
forms. The horse and rider, the parrot, and the animals shown in the
headpiece of this article are all suggestive of animal forms that are
available.
The design shown on the box in Fig. 7 was adapted from a flower
form, two of the units being joined for the decoration on the top. To
obtain a pattern for the design, fold a piece of paper, 2 by 4 in., as
shown at N, and outline one-half of a leaf, flower or similar motif. Cut
the folded paper as at O, and a pattern similar to that shown at P
results. Trace around this to place the figure on the box. Outline the
figure with black, about ¹⁄₈ in. wide, as at Q. The oval figures,
suggestive of small pods on a flower, are also outlined in black, and
joined to the main portion of the design by a black line. Thinner black
lines are drawn vertically across the form, and small circles placed
along them at intervals. The color scheme is shown in Fig. 8. The
light background is yellow, the small circles are emerald-green, and
the ovals red-orange. The rim of the cover is decorated with a border
of white ovals, outlined in black. The corners are banded in black
and white as shown in Fig. 7.
Care and Storage of Camp Equipment
A slovenly sportsman misses much of the joy of the man who
takes pride in giving his outfit the proper care, not only during its
period of use, but also during the winter, when occasional
overhauling serves to keep one in touch with sports of other
seasons. And a very real joy it is, each article recalling an
experience as one examines it minutely for a possible rust spot,
scratch, or injury.
Tents usually come in for much abuse, which shortens their life
considerably. Cotton duck molds quickly, and rots if left rolled up
damp. Care should be taken, therefore, to insure its perfect dryness
before storing. Silk and silk-composition tents, being thoroughly
waterproof, are almost as dry after a rain or dew as before, so may
be packed for moving at any time. But all tents and tarpaulins should
be washed and dried carefully after the season’s use.
Blankets absorb much moisture, and should be shaken and
spread out over bushes to dry in the sun, at least once a week. In
the cold nights of late summer, the increased warmth of blankets
after drying is considerable.
Pack straps and ropes should not be left exposed to the weather.
They speedily become hard or brittle; squirrels like the salt they can
obtain by chewing the leather, and if left on the ground in a rabbit
country, the straps are soon cut into bits. Hang the leather goods in
the peak of the tent, keep them away from fire, and oil them
occasionally.
A canoe should not be left in the water overnight, or at any time
when it is not in use. Simply because use makes it wet, a canoe
should not be left so any more than a gun should be left dirty, or an
ax dull. If on a cruise with a heavy load, pile the stuff on shore at the
night camp, and turn the canoe over it. If a canoe is permitted to
remain in the water unnecessarily, or its inside exposed to rain, it
soon becomes water-soaked and heavy for portage, besides drying
out when exposed to the sun, and developing leaks.
Small punctures in the bottom of a canoe may be mended with
spruce, tamarack, or pine gum, melted into place with a glowing
firebrand, held close, while blowing at the spot to be repaired. Torn
rags of canvas-covered bottoms may be glued with the softer gum of
new “blazes,” gathered with a knife or flat stick.
While traveling on shallow streams the bottom of a board canoe
develops a “fur” of rubbed-up shreds. Every night these should be
cut short with a sharp-pointed knife, to prevent a shred from pulling
out and developing into a large splinter. The paddles, and the setting
pole, unless shod with iron, become burred at the ends and require
trimming down to solid wood.
The track line, if in use, is wet most of the time, and unless dried
frequently, becomes rotten. Every tracker knows the grave danger
with a rotten line in a rapids.
During the winter the canoe should be scraped and sandpapered,
bulges nailed down, permanent repairs made to the covering, and
the canoe painted on the exterior and varnished on the interior.
The average fisherman is an enthusiast who needs no urging in
the matter of caring for his outfit, and the user of firearms should
profit by this example. Even if not a shot has been fired from a gun
all day, moisture from the hands, or from the dampness in the
woods, or marshes, may cause rust spots, or corrode the bore. Rub
an oily rag through the bore and over the outside of the gun every
evening, before laying it aside.
Cleaning rods are safer and more thorough in cleaning the bore
than the common mouse string, which may break when drawing a
heavy piece of cloth through, causing much difficulty. A wooden rod,
preferably of hickory, is best, although the metal rod is stronger for
use in small bores, but care must be taken not to wear the muzzle
unduly. The hunting weapons should be carefully overhauled before
storing them, and given a coat of oil to protect the metal parts from
rust.—A. M. Parker, Edmonton, Can.
Useful Periscope Which a Boy Can Make
Mention of periscopes is quite common in the reports from
European battle fields; such a device in a simple form can be made
easily by boys who have fair skill with tools. The illustration shows a
periscope which may be used for play, and has other practical uses
as well. In a store or other place where a person on duty cannot
watch all parts of the establishment, such a device is convenient in
that it will reflect persons entering the door. As a toy or for
experimental purposes the periscope shown has many possibilities,
and will appeal to youngsters.
This Simple Periscope Is Useful Both for Play and Practical Purposes
By Drawing on the Wire the Coyotes were Brought under Control and Forced
from Their Lair
The type of paste pot that contains a central well to hold the paste
brush is not always cast aside when empty. A pincushion built to fit
the outer ring, or paste-holding section, is added and the brush
holder is used to hold pens and pencils.