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PDF Bestia Italian Recipes Created in The Heart of L A First Edition Franzen Ebook Full Chapter
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Text copyright © 2018 by Ori Menashe and Genevieve Gergis
Photographs copyright © 2018 by Nicole Franzen
Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of
Penguin Random House LLC.
ISBN 9780399580901
Ebook ISBN 9780399580918
v5.3.2_r1
prh
CONTENTS
OUR STORY
OUR FOOD
PANTRY
FLAVOR BUILDING
Pickled Shallots
Pickled Fennel
Pickled Sunchokes
Preserved Citrus
Preserved Lemon
Preserved Orange
Mostarda di Frutta
Pineapple Mostarda
Strawberry Mostarda
VINAIGRETTES
Cinnamon Vinaigrette
Lemon Vinaigrette
Pomegranate Vinaigrette
Turmeric Vinaigrette
Walnut Vinaigrette
Vegetable Stock
Mushroom Stock
Lobster Stocks
Soffrittos
Vegetable Soffritto
Fennel Soffritto
Basic Polenta
Basic Lentils
Creamy Ricotta
SAUCES
Tomato Sauce
Pesto
Salsa Verde
Aiolis
Base Aioli
Paprika Aioli
Tonnato Sauce
Black Butter
Anchovy Paste
Bottargas
Fried Lentils
COCKTAILS
Chef’s Old Fashioned
White Negroni
Perazzi
Bestia Cola
Happy Talk
CHARCUTERIE
KEYS TO SUCCESSFUL MEAT CURING
Norcina Sausage
’Nduja
White ’Nduja
Mortadella
Coppa
Bresaola
Prosciutto
SALADS
Genevieve’s Little Gem Salad
Lamb Belly Confit with Lime Yogurt and Grapefruit, Mint, and Pea
Tendril Salad
Chicken Livers
Grilled Endive with Black Butter, Apple Balsamic Vinegar, Pear, and
Fresh Thyme
Margherita Pizza
’Nduja Pizza
Gorgonzola Pizza
Burrata Pizza
PASTA-MAKING TOOLS
KNEADING
Tortellini di Mortadella
MAIN DISHES
Grilled Stuffed Quail with Blistered Shishito Peppers
Grilled Whole Branzino with Herb Confetti
GRILLING BASICS
Slow-Roasted Lamb Neck with Salsa Verde and Arugula, Fennel, and
Black Sesame Salad
DESSERTS
DESSERT-KITCHEN INGREDIENTS
DESSERT-MAKING TOOLS
FLEXIBILITY
Crostatas
Crostata Dough
Frangipane
Rhubarb-Raspberry Crostata
Ricotta-Pear Tart
Chestnut Zeppole
Butterscotch-Coconut Tart
Maple-Ricotta Fritters
Roasted Banana Malt and Muscovado Peanut Ice Cream Bars with
Dark Roasted Peanut Cream and Caramelized Bananas
Rainbow Sherbet
THE TEAM
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
INDEX
OUR STORY
Genevieve: Bestia is a restaurant that never should have worked.
Ori: That’s how it was for me with Saffron, our daughter, and that’s
how it was with Bestia. I walked through the door, and even though
it was all under construction and still broken up into three different
apartments, I saw the potential in all of the metal, the exposed
ceiling, the bones. It was beautiful and ugly all at the same time—
just cool. And then I walked out into the courtyard with fig trees and
cactus and the sound of fountains and stillness. I got back in my car,
called Genevieve, and said, “I found it.”
Ori: I drove home, picked her up, and took her back to the space.
She immediately loved it too. This was our restaurant.
Ori: Even more than the location, I was confident about the food.
The menu would be Italian, but different from what I’d cooked
before—more amplified, less traditional, and authentically mine. I
knew we’d have handmade pastas and pizzas, but with an added
focus on meat. I wanted to serve off-cuts like pan-seared chicken
gizzards with beets and grilled beef heart, while also bringing in
whole animals for house-cured salumi and steaks grilled over a wood
fire.
Genevieve: The investors who tried Ori’s food loved it, too. But
even then, many of them pulled out when they saw the space. It’s
funny, we still didn’t get the hint that our location could be an issue.
The investors who stuck around were mostly friends who were either
not in it for the money, or who’d scraped together whatever little
money they had just because they wanted to help us fulfill our
dream.
Genevieve: It was all falling into place. But then two weeks before
we opened, Ori’s mom came to visit from Israel.
Ori: She saw the building and said, “Why did you do this?! There’s
nobody here? Why aren’t you opening in an area where there’s foot
traffic?!” I told her to chill out and took her to nearby Urth Caffé to
show her the crowds. But something about what she said flipped a
switch in my head. Suddenly I saw it all—the neighborhood, the
trash, everything. I hadn’t even realized before that there was a strip
club—and not even a classy one—just down the street. I panicked. I
left one night after a long day of curing meats and called Genevieve.
I told her we had made a big mistake.
Ori: I made her promise, “If this doesn’t work, we’re moving to
Israel. You agree?”
Ori: “Because if this doesn’t work,” I said, “it’s our last chance. The
only place we could build up something like this again is Israel. We
aren’t going to be able to do this one more time because nobody’s
going to trust us.”
But then the time came to open the doors, and I see a line of thirty
people already waiting outside. How did this happen? There’d been
barely any press. We were unknowns. The neighborhood was
downright dangerous. The restaurant was really hard to find. But
still, our customers found us. This is what I mean when I say that
this restaurant shouldn’t have worked. Against all odds, we ended up
serving a hundred twenty people that opening night, and there has
continued to be a line outside of Bestia at opening time every night
for the past five years. We’re eternally grateful for it.
Ori: Over the last half decade the restaurant has evolved. It had to
in order to accommodate what’s grown to a reliable crowd of five
hundred or so covers a night. We doubled our kitchen’s square
footage, built an entire alcove in the back dedicated to butchery, and
added more seating. But I’ve also changed the menu, incorporating
more produce and seafood to balance all of the heavy meat dishes.
Bestia’s food has its roots in the flavors of Italy. Most of our dishes
draw inspiration from some traditional recipe, and we share the very
Italian approach of showcasing the best of what’s local, fresh, and
seasonal. From there, though, the Italian influence stops. Instead,
we look beyond any formal culinary style—to our own life
experiences, our travels, and daily influences—to create dishes that
are wholly original and wholly us.
Genevieve: Our pastry program has the same goal. It’s why I love
to add savory ingredients like saffron and bay leaves and herbs and
cheeses to my desserts. A generous use of salt and bitter elements
further help to round out the flavor profile, creating something that’s
balanced, delicious, and so much more than “just sweet.”
le blitidæ ch’erano della razza più vile, abbrutite dal vino e dalla
dissolutezza, giusta il medesimo Plauto;
Blitea et lutea est meretrix, nisi quæ sapit in vino ad rem suam [203].
ARGIRIPPUS
CLEÆRETA
DIABOLUS
Abbiamo, o paziente lettore, assistito insieme alla vita, anzi alla vita
più rigogliosa del mondo romano, interrogando più spesso gli scavi e
i monumenti pompejani: ora, percorso quanto fu disumato della
infelice città, visitiamo l’ultima parte che ci siam di essa riserbata, la
Via delle Tombe che faceva parte del Pagus Augustus Felix, e quindi
tocchiamo di tutto quanto riguarda la morte, le pompe funebri, cioè, i
sepolcri ed i riti. Non sarà certo privo d’interesse l’argomento, se
l’esempio antico rammemorato a’ presenti da Foscolo nel suo carme
immortale de’ Sepolcri, potè condurre la generazione attuale egoista
a più onesta e dicevole religione e venerazione delle tombe.