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China’s
Achilles’ Heel
The Belt and Road Initiative
and Its Indian Discontents
Srikanth Thaliyakkattil
China’s Achilles’ Heel
Srikanth Thaliyakkattil
© The Editor(s) (if applicable) and The Author(s), under exclusive licence to Springer
Nature Singapore Pte Ltd. 2019
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Preface and Acknowledgments
v
vi PREFACE AND ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
a cademicians and media analysts still are in a race to pounding out books
on BRI, and carriers are made out of BRI. Hundreds of PhD thesis and
Master’s thesis was written about Belt and Road initiative. The trick was
that attach the BRI to the title of the thesis or frame the thesis in such a
way to include the BRI label, the advantage was that the academic output
or media output with BRI label got instant visibility and acceptability. In
its initial phase several foreign scholars, businessmen, media analysts from
the developed world and developing world self-recruited themselves and
went on to the pilgrimage of China as publicists of BRI in search of the
“benefit” of the BRI. But outside China there was an ever-growing num-
ber of critics of the BRI and currently they form, arguably, the largest
group. It fed into the ever-growing literature of BRI. It was the label and
narrative of the BRI that was important. After leaving Beijing, spending
my time in India and Singapore gave me very different and varied perspec-
tives of the BRI. Outside China, the BRI discussions both in media and
academia, concentrated on the projects which China labelled as BRI, its
merits and demerits. Take out the label of BRI it ended up as a benefit/
risk analysis of certain projects. It was in want of a deeper understanding I
started this research, and which ended up as a monograph. How much of
what I understood that I can communicate through this monograph is in
doubt, but within the timeframe and available resources, the only consola-
tion is that I tried my best.
I found out that BRI also had a huge disadvantage. BRI was and is the
largest external campaign conducted by China. It was relatively easy for
China to brand BRI as a benevolent one inside China because of the
almost absolute control of Government over media and academia.
However, outside China the label of BRI was interpreted by the countries
which have powerful and influential English media and academia. For
instance, one such country, India was successful in framing BRI as a threat,
with concerns emerging out of BRI labelled projects adversely affecting its
sovereignty and territorial integrity. Western media and academia also
interpreted the Chinese label of BRI as a threat and exploitative. China’s
first large-scale attempt to build a benevolent narrative of its engagements
with the world is a failure and in it India played a pivotal part. The failure
of the BRI narrative and currently turning it into a hegemonic and non-
benevolent narrative outside China will have internal and external reper-
cussions. Through BRI, China also signalled to regional powers like India
and the only reigning superpower United States that China wants to be a
dominant power in the global and regional politics. The rollback of
PREFACE AND ACKNOWLEDGMENTS vii
4 India May Join and Benefit from the BRI: A Chinese View113
5 The BRI and the Good, Not So Good and Bad Business
with India139
Index249
ix
List of Tables
xi
CHAPTER 1
On April 27 and 28, 2018, Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi and
Chinese President Xi Jinping met in the Chinese province of Wuhan to
reset the floundering relationship between their respective countries. The
content of the two-day meeting was replete with positivity. During the
summit, Modi said that “both India and China are ancient civilisations and
important neighbours of each other. We [China and India] must strengthen
dialogue, exchanges and cooperation, live in peace and build a friendship
that lasts from generation to generation.”1
The praise and emphasis on similarities were also reciprocated by Xi
Jinping, according to whom “Both China and India are countries with a
splendid history and culture, and the two countries share many similarities
in culture. China and India should conduct more extensive and deeper
exchanges, jointly commit to the rejuvenation of Eastern civilisation,
advocate respect for the diversity of civilisations and promote the harmo-
nious coexistence of different civilisations.”2
The post-Wuhan summit statements of India and China show the
divergences between the thinking of the two countries about important
issues that impact the relations between them. According to India’s post-
summit statement, “Prime Minister Modi and President Xi recognised
the common threat posed by terrorism and reiterated their strong con-
demnation of and resolute opposition to terrorism in all its forms and
manifestations. They committed themselves to cooperate on counter-
terrorism.”3 However, in China’s post-summit statement, terrorism was
but to adapt to the cyclical crises that are bound to happen in the “capital-
ist” United States economy.
Apart from its low level of representation in financial institutions rela-
tive to its economic size, China is also currently facing a backlash from
Western economies, leading to restrictions on technology transfers from
Western economies to China and restrictions on Chinese investments in
high-tech Western companies. China is also facing what Gabriel Palma
cited as a cause for the economic stagnation and crisis in the Thai economy
and the Malaysian economy during the 1997 crisis. That is, China is reach-
ing a point in its process of industrialisation where the further upgrading
of its exports to higher value-added products (and, in particular, to break-
ing away from a “sub-contracting” type of industrialisation) is becoming
increasingly difficult.17
A combination of factors, including the 2008 financial crisis, led to the
rise of the Chinese discourse on global governance. The disarray in Europe
because of the refugee crisis, the continuing relative economic stagnation
of Europe, the rise of right-wing populism in Europe and, above all, the
increasing cleavages between the Trump administration and major
European nations such as Germany and France have led to the Chinese
belief in an emerging power vacuum. China’s perception of a power vac-
uum in international politics is articulated by the Chinese official news
agency, Xinhua. According to Xinhua, “the rising populist ideology in
Europe, along with Trump’s election in the United States, has posed
potential challenges to economic globalisation, trade liberalisation and
global governance as a whole.”18
The term “global governance” has become one of the most frequently
used terms in Chinese political discourse since the 2008 economic crisis.
The 2008 economic crisis was an eye-opener for China; it showed that
without having a hold on the levers of global or regional economic gover-
nance, China would be on the receiving end of the economic fluctuations
in other parts of the world, especially the United States.19
He has also given reasons for China’s focus on and push for global
governance reform. In Xi Jinping’s words, “as the international balance of
power has shifted and global challenges are increasing, global governance
system reform has emerged as a ‘trend of [the] times.’”21 Xi Jinping fur-
ther reiterated that “China will work with people of all countries to push
the world order and global governance system towards a more just and
reasonable direction.”22 However, China’s desire to push for global gov-
ernance reform came with a stark warning from Xi Jinping: “…China will
never give up our lawful rights. Chinese people do not believe fallacy and
nor are we afraid of evil forces. Chinese people do not make trouble, but
we are not cowards when involved in trouble.”23
The key term in Xi Jinping’s thoughts on global governance is the men-
tion of the shift in “international power.” Chinese leaders believe that
international power has already shifted and is in their favour. For Xi
Jinping, pushing for global financial reforms to rectify the “unjust and
improper arrangements in the global governance system” has become an
important foreign policy issue. China is trying to reform the global finan-
cial order in two ways: by increasing its share in global financial institu-
tions and by building new financial institutions in which it has a majority
stake (see Tables 1.1 and 1.2).
Regarding the new financial institutions, China is focused on the AIIB
rather than the NDB because all BRICS countries have equal shares
in the NDB.
The usual Chinese rhetoric of a win-win situation has accompanied
China’s aspirations for global governance reform; China has assured the
global audience that governance with Chinese characteristics would treat
Source: “IMF Members’ Quotas and Voting Power, and IMF Board of Governors,” IMF, November 21,
2018, https://www.imf.org/external/np/sec/memdir/members.aspx (accessed November 23, 2018);
“The World Bank,” September 30, 2018, http://pubdocs.worldbank.org/en/795101541106471736/
IBRDCountryVotingTable.pdf (accessed November 23, 2018); “Asian Development Bank,” December
31, 2017, https://www.adb.org/site/investors/credit-fundamentals/shareholders (accessed November
23, 2018)
8 S. THALIYAKKATTIL
Table 1.2 China led major new financial institutions—Country voting share in %
Countries AIIB New Development Bank (NDB) (BRICS Bank)
China 26.5872 20
Russia 6.0146 20
India 7.6352 20
Brazil 20
South Africa 20
Source: “Members and Prospective Members of the Bank,” AIIB, October 8, 2018, https://www.aiib.
org/en/about-aiib/governance/members-of-bank/index.html (accessed November 23, 2018)
every country, whether rich or poor, small or large, equally. The BRI is
designated as an umbrella concept for global governance reform.
Nevertheless, China faces intractable obstacles on its way to creating its
own space in the global system. Although China has adapted to the world,
the world has yet to acclimatise to China. The behaviour of the Chinese
state is judged according to the yardsticks previously set by the Western
powers after the Second World War. Considering that China is now a
Westernised state, in which, except for the political system, most things
Western have been adopted, it will be hard for China to Sinicise itself and
almost impossible to Sinicise the world. The best that China can hope for
is that with economic interdependency, fewer countries will perceive it as
an anomaly in world politics. Nevertheless, with the increasing tensions
between China and regional powers, on the one hand, and Western pow-
ers, on the other hand, the “economic interdependency theory” of stabil-
ity is already discredited.
Until China, if ever, becomes the dominant power in the world, China
faces the difficult task of maintaining belief in the current political system.
It has to struggle with the infiltration of other belief systems, such as
those of Christian missionary groups. As has always been the case, China
is searching for new weapons for the battle of ideas. It is evident from
history that ideas count more than armies. Marquis Astolphe de Custine
wrote in 1839 that “…customs have no power over thought. Armies can-
not exterminate it. Ramparts cannot stop it. Ideas are in the air, they are
everywhere, and ideas change the world…,”24 and this holds true for any
society, including Chinese society. With the slowing down of China’s eco-
nomic growth and the general anti-globalisation trend worldwide,
China’s task looks difficult. Until it becomes a peer power of the United
States, it has to maintain the Chinese population’s belief in the current
1 INTRODUCTION: THE BRI AS STRATEGIC CAMOUFLAGE 9
v isible. This was also the case with Chinese infrastructure investments in
Sri Lanka, and Pakistani scholars and media are all too aware of the conse-
quences of Chinese investments in Sri Lanka.
Pakistani media refer to the outcomes of Chinese-funded infrastructure
and other projects in Sri Lanka to stress Pakistan’s need for caution. For
instance, in 2007, the EXIM Bank of China began funding Sri Lanka’s
Hambantota Port. The port was completed at a cost of US$ 1.3 billion. In
its initial phase of operations, the port was basically abandoned. Sri Lanka
then failed to repay the debt to China incurred by the construction of this
port, and in December 2017, it officially handed the management of the
port to a Chinese company on a 99-year lease. Pakistani media also point
out that most of the major Chinese-funded infrastructure projects in Sri
Lanka are basically abandoned and that Sri Lanka faces a debt crisis because
of the debt servicing issues related to these projects.34
Pakistani media and experts warn that if Pakistan is not cautious,
Chinese-funded large-scale infrastructure and other projects in the coun-
try may face a fate similar to those in Sri Lanka. They argue that Pakistan’s
current interest in the CPEC is the result of the country’s weak economy.
However, if these large-scale projects are not self-sustaining, they will do
more harm than good to Pakistan’s economy. Nevertheless, the reality is
that Pakistan will face an uphill battle in ensuring the self-sustainability of
Chinese-funded large-scale projects, given its slow gross domestic product
growth and deteriorating internal security situation.35
Eventually, in practice, Pakistan had to cede the control and operation
of Gwadar Port to China. In November 2017, the Pakistani minister for
shipping and ports, Mir Hasil Bizenjo, revealed that China would obtain
a 91% share in the revenue of Pakistan’s Gwadar Port and that a Chinese
port holding company will operate the port over the next 40 years. In real-
ity, Pakistan was relinquishing the port to China.36
China is also aware of the risks involved in operating in politically vola-
tile countries such as Pakistan. For instance, the Chinese consulate in
Karachi, Pakistan, was attacked by Baloch separatists from Balochistan
province to express their discontent regarding Chinese projects in their
region. A separatist group, the Balochistan Liberation Army (BLA),
claimed responsibility for the attack. According to the spokesman of the
BLA, “We [Balochi people] have been seeing the Chinese as an oppressor,
along with Pakistani forces.” With the increasing visibility of Chinese
nationals in Pakistan, it is expected that Chinese nationals will become the
targets of internal political and separatist factions in Pakistan.37
1 INTRODUCTION: THE BRI AS STRATEGIC CAMOUFLAGE 13
Sri Lankan experts also share Pakistan’s concerns that the BRI will neg-
atively impact the sovereignty of their country. They point out that a sig-
nificant portion of investment and funding in BRI-tied projects in Sri
Lanka comes from Chinese public entities, and Sri Lanka’s inability to
repay in a timely manner and the resulting debt burden can lead to weaker
negotiating strength and a loss of sovereignty. Sri Lanka’s worries have
taken material form in China’s takeover of the troubled Hambantota Port.
Whether Hambantota will remain the only case of a loss of sovereignty
arising from high debt-to-equity swap agreements or whether more such
arrangements will follow is the worrying question confronting Sri Lankan
authorities.38
The debt burden of Sri Lanka and Pakistan is not different from China’s
financial and economic engagement with other developing world coun-
tries. For instance, at the end of 2016, China accounted for 21% of the
combined external debt stock of low- and middle-income countries.39
Additionally, India’s concerns related to China’s pursuit of naval base facil-
ities in Sri Lanka and Pakistan are not new. Chinese control of Hambantota
Port and Gwadar Port only confirmed India’s fears and the fears of the
United States, that China will use its new-found economic leverage to
acquire strategic control in the Indian Ocean region and beyond.
It can be argued that the debt burden of these countries is mainly due
to the mismanagement of their own economy by their own respective
governments for various periods. Furthermore, the majority of Sri Lanka’s
debt burden is not even with China. “According to the 2017 Annual
Report of the Central Bank of Sri Lanka, the country’s total external debt
was $ 51.824 billion, among which Chinese loans constituted about 10.6%
or $ 5.5 billion. Also, according to Sri Lanka’s Finance Ministry Annual
Report 2017, market borrowings mainly of sovereign bonds accounted
for 39% of the country’s external debt. Loans owed to the Asian
Development Bank (ADB) were 14%, Japan 12%, the World Bank 11%,
China 10%, and India 3%.”40 However, China’s use of debt as strategic
leverage has been more significant; China used its debt leverage with Sri
Lanka to acquire a strategic port. China’s action meant a geopolitical
threat to India and the interests of the United States in the region.
For China, in addition to Pakistan and Sri Lanka, Nepal is one of the
most strategically located South Asian countries. Due to its location,
Nepal has an indirect and direct impact on China’s internal and external
security. Since the announcement of the BRI, as with Pakistan and Sri
Lanka, the label of BRI was attached to China’s engagements with Nepal.
14 S. THALIYAKKATTIL
Chinese engagement using the BRI framework in Nepal has also exacer-
bated the security concerns and worries in the region. Although Chinese
engagement with Nepal has attracted less media attention than the port
infrastructure in Sri Lanka and Pakistan, because of its proximity to strate-
gic regions of Tibet and the long borders it share with both India and
China, Nepal is one of the pivotal states in which the power struggle
between China, on the one hand, and India and the West, on the other
hand, will play out. Thus, it is worthwhile to take a detailed look into
Chinese engagement with Nepal and its position in relation to India
and the West.
The Tibetan autonomous region is adjacent to the Chinese provinces of
Xinjiang, Qinghai, Sichuan, and Yunnan. Tibet also shares borders with
South Asian countries such as India, Nepal, Myanmar, and Bhutan. In the
BRI of China, Tibet has a significant role in connecting Chinese interior
provinces with South Asian countries. With the progress of Chinese con-
nectivity initiatives, Tibet can also act as a province linking it to South
Asia, Central Asia, and Europe. Among its international borders, Tibet’s
borders with Nepal are its most important border from the perspective of
Tibet’s international trade and internal security.41
Indicating Tibet’s close linkages with Nepal, Tibet’s foreign trade fell
for two consecutive years following the Nepal earthquake in 2015.42 The
opening of the China-Nepal highway in 1965 allowed the Zhangmu port
of entry on the Nepal-China border to carry nearly 90% of Tibet’s foreign
trade until China’s reform and opening up. Because the 2015 earthquake
in Nepal, the Zhangmu port of entry is temporarily closed, and the trade
through this port of entry has yet to be normalised. Although trade
between Nepal and Tibet has been adversely affected, Nepal is still the
largest trading partner of Tibet. For instance, in the first 11 months of
2017, the total value of Tibet’s trade with Nepal was 2.15 billion yuan, a
decrease of 23.9%. Nepal still accounts for 39.1% of the total foreign trade
value of Tibet, a decline of 20.3%.43
Since the announcement of the BRI, China and Nepal have been taking
initiatives to increase the economic integration between Nepal and the
Tibet region. For instance, on May 9, 2017, Chinese Minister of
Commerce Zhong Shan and Nepalese Vice Premier and Minister of
Finance Krishna Bahadur Mahara officially signed the MOU on
constructing the China-Nepal Cross-border Economic Cooperation
Zone.44 Trade and tourism between Nepal and China will be boosted once
the Rasuwagadhi-Kerung (Geelong Port) border crossing is upgraded
1 INTRODUCTION: THE BRI AS STRATEGIC CAMOUFLAGE 15
visas to exiled Tibetans and its record of treating them does not improve,
US aid to Nepal will be cut off.” In addition to the pressure from the US
government, many NGOs from the US and Europe have also played a role
in supporting Tibetan refugees in Nepal.51 To prevent what China per-
ceives as “anti-Chinese activities” by Tibetans in Nepal, China’s security
establishment is expanding its influence on Nepal. The People’s Liberation
Army (PLA) of China is gradually establishing a strong relationship with
Nepali security forces. For instance, in April 2017, the Nepalese army and
PLA held a first-ever joint military training in Kathmandu, seeking to
exchange skills and knowledge on disaster management and counter-
terrorism.52 China also financed and built the Nepal Armed Police Force
Academy, and the Nepali Armed Police force plays an important role in
managing Tibetan refugees in Nepal.53
In addition to China’s engagement with Nepal’s armed forces, the
Chinese government is also giving Nepali government officials training in
the Chinese language to increase the interoperability between China’s
government and Nepal’s government.
Although there is the future promise of connectivity and trade between
Nepal and China, the connectivity between the two countries is currently
still far from developed. Indian imports enter through 22 border points
between Nepal and India. In contrast, there are only two official border
points with China. The Chinese connectivity initiatives with Nepal are all
in their nascent stages; arguably, it will take many more years for China to
match the Indian level of connectivity with Nepal.
Although there is an image of comradery between the Chinese govern-
ment and the Nepali government, it is not all smooth sailing for Chinese
companies in Nepal and the collaborative projects between the govern-
ment of Nepal and Chinese companies. For instance, in May–June 2018,
there were reports that Nepal was scrapping its deal with a Chinese com-
pany to build the West Seti Hydropower project and that the Nepali gov-
ernment was planning to build it with its own resources. Presenting the
federal budget on May 29, 2018, Nepal’s Finance Minister Yubaraj
Khatiwada said the construction work on West Seti would be commenced
by mobilising internal resources. However, this report was later denied by
both the Chinese Foreign Ministry spokesperson and Investment Board
Nepal (IBN). The contradictory statements between Nepal’s ministries
and the Chinese government show the confusion and the difficulties in
negotiation between the Nepali government and Chinese companies. The
project, located in far-western Nepal, has been languishing in uncertainty
18 S. THALIYAKKATTIL
since the Chinese company said it would not go ahead with the scheme if
the power purchase rate were not increased. The lingering negotiations
between the Chinese company and the Nepali government are ongoing.
Many of the Chinese projects involved are commercial projects, which are
largely excluded from geopolitical thinking and based on hard-nosed
profit motives. However, the Chinese government labels many of these
independent commercial projects as part of the BRI.54
In relation to Nepal, as of the end of 2018, BRI has proven to be more
propaganda than substance. Many projects are stamped by Chinese officials
as BRI-related projects, even though they are not related to any connectivity
initiatives or are not even funded by China. For instance, the Upper
Tamakoshi hydroelectric project, located east of Kathmandu, is being built
using Nepal’s domestic financial resources. The majority stakeholders in the
project are Nepal’s government agencies.55 It is considered a project of
Nepal’s national pride. The construction contract has been given to the
Powerchina Company; however, Chinese government officials also label this
project as a BRI project. For instance, the Chinese ambassador to Nepal, Yu
Hong, pointed out that the Upper Tamakoshi Hydroelectric Project is the
largest in Nepal and is of great significance for the participation of Chinese
enterprises in the construction of the Belt and Road Initiative.56
The connectivity projects between Nepal and China are also not feasi-
ble within a short period of time. In particular, it is not cost-effective for
Nepal to access Chinese ports through highways; for Nepal, the nearest
Chinese port, the Port of Tianjin, is almost 3500 kilometres away from
Kathmandu, and other Chinese ports such as Guangzhou and Shanghai
are even further away, approximately 4500 km from Nepal. The current
nearest Chinese railhead from Nepal is Shigatse in Tibet, which is 540 km
from Nepal. China is expanding its railway line from Shigatse to Kyirong,
which is close to the Rasuwagadhi border point of Nepal. The Chinese
railway projects connecting Nepal are expected to be completed by 2020.
The railway will be more cost-effective than highways in connecting the
Chinese mainland with Nepal. However, Nepal’s access to Chinese ports
will still be costly.57 China is also increasingly involved in providing aid
and disaster relief in Nepal. A Chinese NGO, China Foundation for
Poverty Alleviation (CFPA), “has carried out over a dozen projects in sec-
tors such as disaster relief, food, water and sanitation, disinfection treat-
ment and health care in 14 districts of Nepal. It has invested about
12 million yuan (1.9 million US dollars) to extend support to over
250,000 Nepali people….”58
1 INTRODUCTION: THE BRI AS STRATEGIC CAMOUFLAGE 19
Source: “Foreign aid disbursement up 27 percent,” The Kathmandu Post, January 1, 2018, http://
kathmandupost.ekantipur.com/news/2018-01-01/foreign-aid-disbursement-up-27-percent.html,
accessed June 2, 2018
artners. According to the Xinhua news agency, the BRI “…is not a new
p
version of the Marshall Plan, which gave aid only to American allies. The
Belt and Road Initiative, in contrast, is open to all. The vagueness of the
initiative’s geographical boundaries also helps. No bars are set, and coun-
tries do not need to negotiate their ways into the initiative.”60
However, China’s investment pattern shows that BRI-related and BRI-
unrelated Chinese investments are directed towards developed countries.
The United States, Europe and other countries in the developed world
attract most Chinese investments. Europe and North America (excluding
Mexico) received 52.1% (US$ 544.5 billion) of China’s total global FDI
outflows from 2005 to 2017. The US is the largest destination for Chinese
FDI in the world, attracting US$ 171.04 billion or 16.4% of China’s out-
bound FDI since 2005. Australia is the second largest destination of
Chinese FDI, attracting US$ 90.95 billion from 2005 to 2017 during the
same period. The U.K. has become the third largest destination of Chinese
FDI, attracting US$ 72.39 billion. The top low- or middle-income or
developing country that has attracted the most Chinese FDI during the
same period is Indonesia, attracting US$ 13.33 billion.61
However, five years after the announcement of the BRI, in 2018,
China is facing a backlash over its strategic investments in both the
developed and developing worlds. Countries are cautious in allowing
Chinese investment in industries and businesses that are critical for
national security.62 According to China’s “Made in China 2025” strat-
egy, every commercial technology in China should be made available to
the PLA. This means that every technology that Chinese firms acquire in
foreign countries will have the potential to be used by the PLA, and
indirect technology transfer from foreign countries to China will eventu-
ally help strengthen the PLA.63
China has increasingly invested in high-tech industries in the United
States. “According to data from Public Citizen, a liberal advocacy group
and think tank, 56% of Chinese investments in the United States in 2017
were in industries that Beijing defines as ‘strategic,’ such as aviation, bio-
technology, and new-energy vehicles—up from 25% in 2016.”64 As a result
of worries over Chinese strategic acquisitions of American technology
industries, the US Treasury Department began a pilot programme using
new powers under the Foreign Investment Risk Review Modernization
Act. The law expanded the purview of the Committee on Foreign
Investment in the United States, the main United States government body
able to block foreign acquisitions of domestic businesses, resulting in strict
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CURRIED SWEETBREADS.
Wash and soak them as usual, then throw them into boiling water
with a little salt in it, and a whole onion, and let them simmer for ten
minutes; or, if at hand, substitute weak veal broth for the water. Lift
them out, place them on a drainer, and leave them until they are
perfectly cold; then cut them into half-inch slices, and either flour and
fry them lightly in butter, or put them, without this, into as much
curried gravy as will just cover them; stew them in it very gently, from
twenty to thirty minutes; add as much lemon-juice or chili vinegar as
will acidulate the sauce agreeably,[97] and serve the currie very hot.
As we have already stated in two or three previous receipts, an
ounce or more of sweet freshly-grated cocoa-nut, stewed tender in
the gravy, and strained from it, before the sweetbreads are added,
will give a peculiarly pleasant flavour to all curries.
97. We find that a small portion of Indian pickled mango, or of its liquor, is an
agreeable addition to a currie as well as to mullagatawny soup.
Any tender and well-roasted meat, taken free of fat, skin, and
gristle, as well as from the dry outsides, will answer for potting
admirably, better indeed than that which is generally baked for the
purpose, and which is usually quite deprived of its juices by the
process. Spiced or corned beef also is excellent when thus
prepared; and any of these will remain good a long time if mixed with
cold fresh butter, instead of that which is clarified; but no addition
that can be made to it will render the meat eatable, unless it be
thoroughly pounded; reduced, in fact, to the smoothest possible
paste, free from a single lump or a morsel of unbroken fibre. If rent
into fragments, instead of being quite cut through the grain in being
minced, before it is put into the mortar, no beating will bring it to the
proper state. Unless it be very dry, it is better to pound it for some
time before any butter is added, and it must be long and patiently
beaten after all the ingredients are mixed, that the whole may be
equally blended and well mellowed in flavour.
The quantity of butter required will depend upon the nature of the
meat; ham and salted beef will need a larger proportion than roast
meat, or than the breasts of poultry and game; white fish, from being
less dry, will require comparatively little. Salmon, lobsters, prawns,
and shrimps are all extremely good, prepared in this way. They
should, however, be perfectly fresh when they are pounded, and be
set immediately afterwards into a very cool place. For these, and for
white meats in general, mace, nutmeg, and cayenne or white
pepper, are the appropriate spices. A small quantity of cloves may
be added to hare and other brown meat, but allspice we would not
recommend unless the taste is known to be in favour of it. The
following receipt for pounding ham will serve as a general one for the
particular manner of proceeding.
POTTED HAM.[100]
102. This should never be poured hot on the meat: it should be less than milk-
warm when added to it.
Lean of ham, 1 lb.; lean of roast veal, 6 oz.; fresh butter, 8 oz.;
mace, from 1 to 2 teaspoonsful; 1/2 large nutmeg; cayenne, 1/4 to
1/2 teaspoonful.
Obs.—The roast veal is ordered in this receipt because the ham
alone is generally too salt; for the same reason butter, fresh taken
from the churn, or that which is but slightly salted and quite new,
should be used for it in preference to its own fat. When there is no
ready-dressed veal in the house, the best part of the neck, roasted
or stewed, will supply the requisite quantity. The remains of a cold
boiled ham will answer quite well for potting, even when a little dry.
POTTED CHICKEN, PARTRIDGE, OR PHEASANT.
Roast the birds as for table, but let them be thoroughly done, for if
the gravy be left in, the meat will not keep half so well. Raise the
flesh of the breast, wings, and merrythought, quite clear from the
bones, take off the skin, mince, and then pound it very smoothly with
about one third of its weight of fresh butter, or something less, if the
meat should appear of a proper consistence without the full quantity;
season it with salt, mace, and cayenne only, and add these in small
portions until the meat is rather highly flavoured with both the last;
proceed with it as with other potted meats.
POTTED OX-TONGUE.
Scrape the anchovies very clean, raise the flesh from the bones,
and pound it to a perfect paste in a Wedgwood or marble mortar;
then with the back of a wooden spoon press it through a hair-sieve
reversed. Next, weigh the anchovies, and pound them again with
double their weight of the freshest butter that can be procured, a
high seasoning of mace and cayenne, and a small quantity of finely-
grated nutmeg; set the mixture by in a cool place for three or four
hours to harden it before it is put into the potting pans. If butter be
poured over, it must be only lukewarm; but the anchovies will keep
well for two or three weeks without. A very small portion of rose-pink
may be added to improve the colour, but unless it be sparingly used,
it will impart a bitter flavour to the preparation. The quantity of butter
can be increased or diminished in proportion as it is wished that the
flavour of the anchovies should prevail.
Anchovies pounded, 3 oz.; butter, 6 oz.; mace, third of
teaspoonful; half as much cayenne; little nutmeg.
LOBSTER BUTTER.
(Delicious.)
Let the fish be quite freshly boiled, shell them quickly, and just
before they are put into the mortar, chop them a little with a very
sharp knife; pound them perfectly with a small quantity of fresh
butter, mace, and cayenne. (See also page 92.)
Shrimps (unshelled), 2 quarts; butter, 2 to 4 oz.; mace, 1 small
saltspoonful; cayenne, 1/3 as much.
POTTED MUSHROOMS.
The receipt for these, which we can recommend to the reader, will
be found in the next Chapter.
MOULDED POTTED MEAT OR FISH.
Vegetables.