Pin-up girl

Crochet pattern by

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 About this tutorial

Size of a doll
Using a similar yarn to mine your doll will be about 2323 cm.

Skills required
Crocheting in spiral, crocheting in rows, chain, slip stitch, single, half double and double
crochet stitch, increasing and decreasing of stitches, making a circle and an oval, knowing
what is the right and wrong side, what is the post, the front and the back loop of a stitch.

How difficult
Advanced

Contact me
If you have any questions, rely on my unlimited support and contact me via Facebook
(@monoxatoys).

One serious rule

Contents of this tutorial MAY NOT be copied, reproduced, altered, published or distributed
in any way. This pattern is REGISTERED under the international copyright law,

However, you MAY sell finished products, if you credit me as the designer
(@monoxatoys at Facebook and Instagram).

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 Materials & Tools
1) YARN.
• Skin color sport weight (“Alize Cotton Gold” 100g – 330mt (55% cotton+ 45% acrylic,
color code: 382) – about 80 g
• Black color sport weight (“Alize Cotton Gold” 100g – 330mt (55% cotton+ 45% acrylic,
color code: 60) – about 80 g
• Dark red color sport weight (“Alize Cotton Gold” 100g – 330mt (55% cotton+ 45%
acrylic, color code: 57) – about 15 g
• Dark-grey color sport weight (“Alize Cotton Gold” 100g – 330mt (55% cotton+ 45%
acrylic, color code: 87) – about 7 g
• Light-grey color sport weight (“Alize Cotton Gold” 100g – 330mt (55% cotton+ 45%
acrylic, color code: 200) – about 5 g

2) HOOK. I used 2.0, 2.5, 1.5 mm crochet hooks

3) Polyester fiberfill, wool, wadding etc. for STUFFING – about 120 g
4) White 1,5-2 mm thick felt for the eyes (2 pieces: 1.71.2 cm)
5) Nylon thread to make shaping stitches
6) 20 mm green safety eyes (2 pieces)
7) Red polymer clay for the lips
8) Black lace for the tattoos
9) Some small decorations for the earrings
10) Transparent fabric glue
11) Oil paints for the tattoos
12) Pink rouge (cosmetics)
13) Wooden skewers for additional support
14) YARN NEEDLE, sewing PINS, SCISSORS, stitch MARKER

Abbreviations and Technology

Ch – chain stitch, Sc – single crochet, Hdc – half double crochet, Ss – slip stitch
Inc – increase, Dec – invisible decrease
sc3into1– three single crochet stitches crocheted into one stitch
sc3together – three single crochet stitches decreased to one

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 How to read my pattern
Sc n = make n single crochet stitches, one in each stitch.
Number of the row

Pattern, you have to repeat

Number of times
Number of stitches in a row after finishing a row……
…

4) (Sc 2, inc) * 6 (24)

That means that in the fourth row you are going to repeat the fragment “two single
crochet stitches, increase” six times and at the end of the row you will get 24 stitches.

How to close the opening

1) Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and fasten off. Thread the yarn tail into a yarn needle.
2) Insert the needle from the center and under the front loop only. Draw the yarn
through. Pick up all the remaining stitches the same way.
3) Grab the yarn and pull until the hole is tightly closed.
4) Make a double knot.
5) Exit the needle elsewhere on the work, pull the yarn tail taut, and snip it right against
the detail (the tail should disappear inside the detail).

How to finish an open piece

1) Pull the tail under the both loops of the first stitch of the previous row

2) Pull the tail back, under the FRONT loop of the last stitch of the row

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 Tips and information
STUFF your toy as you work: it is easier and gives a better result than filling all at once! Put a
little quantity of the stuffing at a time to avoid bulks.
Don’t underestimate the importance of even stuffing: it is as important as the crochet
pattern itself.
IMPORTANT!
Use a MARKER (I use thread of yarn): this will help you to keep track of the rounds and keep
your doll symmetrical. The beginning of the round should stay on the central line of the
detail. That is why sometimes you have to make some extra stitches – shift stitches.
The main idea of SHIFT STITCHES (adjustment stitches) is to save the symmetry of the toy. It
helps the central line of the detail stay in its place.
If you need to make more/less shift stitches, than I do, to achieve that, please do.
Check my pictures and make sure your round starts from the same place as mine.
Remember, that shift stitch doesn’t change the number of stitches in the round, it just shifts
the beginning of the next round.
Here is how the back loop, front loop and post look like:

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 Pattern
Shoes (2 parts)
Use the dark red yarn and a 2.0 mm crochet hook.
Crochet in spiral. Detail starts with a circle.
If you prefer to start with magic ring (MR), then skip the round 0) and make the number of
stitches indicated in the round 1) into MR.

0) Chain 2
1) Sc 5 into the 2nd chain from the hook (5)
2) Inc 5 (10)
3) Sc 2, inc 2, sc 1, inc 2, sc 3 (14)
4) Sc 4, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 4, dec (15)
5) Sc 5, inc, sc 3, inc, sc 4, inc (18) Make a shift stitch
6) Inc, sc 4, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 7 (17)
7) Sc 5, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 3, ss 1, leave 2 st. unfinished, turn (15)

Attention! Now you are going to crochet in half-rows, not in spiral: that
means that you have to turn after each row. That technique helps to
change the angle of crochet rounds.

8) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 8, ss 1, Picture –>

turn (10)
9) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 4,

Now you are going to proceed with a heel:

VIDEO: How to make a heel of a shoe: round 10 – 11

10) Ch 7 Picture on the left –> into this chain: inc,

sc 5,
now crochet into the sole: inc, ss 1, Picture on
the right, turn
11) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 1, into the chain: sc 1, inc, Picture, skip 9 st. of the
heel (bring this “tail” to the back – see the left picture below), inc, sc 2, (see the 2nd
and the 3rd picture below), now crochet into the sole: sc 1, ss 1, turn

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12) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 1, (inc, sc 1)*2, inc, sc 3, see the picture below,
now crochet into the sole: ss 1, turn

13) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 3, Picture, back loops only: (dec, sc 2 (marked in the
picture), dec), both loops again: sc 3, now crochet into the sole: ss 1, Picture, turn

14) Ss 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 2, dec (usual, not invisible), sc 1, dec (usual, not
invisible), sc 3, Picture, now crochet into the sole: sc 2 (marked in the picture), sc 7 (17)

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RIGHT ARM
Use the dark-grey yarn and a 2.0 mm crochet hook.
Crochet in spiral. Detail starts with a circle.

Attention! Stuff your toy as you work. It is easier and gives a better result than filling all at
once! Put a little quantity of the stuffing at a time to avoid bulks. My advice is to use wooden
sticks.

You start with an elbow:

0) Chain 2
1) Sc 6 into the 2nd chain from the hook (6)
2) (Sc 1, inc)*3 (9)
3) (Sc 2, inc)*3 (12)
4) (Sc 1, inc)*6 (18)
5) (Sc 2, inc)*6 (24)
6) Sc 17, inc (this is the center of the back line of the forearm),
Picture –>,
sc 6 (25)

7) Sc 18, inc, sc 6 (26)

Now you are going to proceed with a shoulder:

Check the video for the 8th round of the knee – it is similar: Round 8) of the leg

8) Ch 4, left picture below, skip 11 (mark 11th stitch), sc 7, inc, leave 7 st. unfinished,
right picture below (20)

Here will be a new beginning. Move the marker.

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 9) Sc 7, along the chain: (sc 1, dec, sc 1); dec, sc 6, inc (19)
10) Sc 5, dec 3, sc 7, inc (17)
11) Sc 6, dec, sc 7, inc, leave 1 st. unfinished (17)

Change the color! Proceed with a light-grey:

12) Sc 7, dec, sc 7, inc (17)

13) Sc 7, dec, sc 7, inc (17)
14) Sc 7, dec, sc 7, inc (17)
15) Sc 7, dec, sc 6, inc, leave 1 st. unfinished (17)

Change the color! Proceed with a skin color:

16) Sc 7, dec, sc 7, inc (17) Picture

17) Sc 7, dec, sc 7, inc (17)
18) Sc 7, dec, sc 7, inc (17)
19) Sc 9, ss 1
Finish as an open piece. Leave a long tail to sew the arm to the shoulder.

Now you are going to proceed in dark-grey with a forearm:

VIDEO: Round 20) of the forearm

20) Attach the yarn to the marked stitch (see the picture) and make chain 1 (counts as a
stitch), sc 1 into the “wall” – post of a stitch (see the picture), sc 1, dec, sc 1, sc 1
into the “wall” – post of a stitch (see the picture), sc 5, inc, leave 4 stitches
unfinished (17)

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Here will be a new beginning. Move the marker.

21) Sc 3, dec, sc 7, inc, sc 4 (17)

22) (Sc 2, dec)*2, sc 4, inc, sc 3, leave 1 st. unfinished (16)
23) Sc 3, dec, sc 6, inc, sc 4 (16)
24) (Sc 2, dec)*2, sc 3, inc, sc 3, leave 1 st. unfinished (15)

Change the color! Proceed with a light-grey:

25) (Sc 2, dec)*2, sc 3, inc, sc 3 (14)

26) Sc 2, dec, sc 6, inc, sc 3 (14)
27) Sc 2, dec, sc 10 (13)
28) Sc 1, dec, sc 9, leave 1 st. unworked (12)

Change the color! Proceed with a skin color:

29) Sc 1, dec, sc 1, dec, sc 6 (10)

30) Sc 1, dec, (sc 1, inc)*2, sc 3 (11)

Stuff the detail. Picture –>

Now you are going to proceed with a hand:

31) Sc 1, dec, sc 3, inc, sc 4 (11)

32) Sc 11
33) Sc 5, inc, sc 3, dec (11) Make a shift stitch
34) Sc 5, inc, sc 5 (12)
35) Sc 12
36) Dec, sc 4, inc, sc 5 (12)
37) Inc, sc 2, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 2, inc (12)
38) Sc 12
39) Inc, sc 3, dec 2, sc 4 (11)
Make a shift stitch
40) Sc 2, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 2 (9)
41) Dec 3, leave 3 st. unworked.

Close the opening.

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LEFT ARM
Use the skin color yarn and a 2.0 mm crochet hook.
Crochet in spiral. Detail starts with a circle.

You start with an elbow – repeat the pattern for the right arm, but in skin color.

Crochet a shoulder in skin color using the pattern for the right arm, only the round 19) is
different:

19) Sc 5, ss 1

Now you are going to proceed with a forearm:

20) Attach the yarn to the marked stitch (the same way you did it for the right arm) and
make chain 1 (counts as a stitch), ss 1 into the wall” – the post of a stitch, turn

Now you are going to make half-rows:

21) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook (the ch 1 of the previous round), (sc 2, back loops only:
dec)*2, sc 2, ss 1 into the “wall” – the post of a stitch, turn (10)
22) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 7, ss 1, turn (9)
23) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 6, ss 1, turn (8)

Now you are going to proceed with full rows:

24) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 6, sc 3 till the “bridge”, ss 4 into the “bridge”, sc 3 till
the start of this round (17)
25) Sc 10, ss 5, sc 2 (17) Make a shift stitch
26) Sc 10, ss 5, sc 2 (17) Make three shift stitches. Here is a new beginning.
27) Dec, sc 15 (16)
28) Sc 8, Change the color! Proceed with a light-grey: sc 8 (16)
29) Dec, sc 14 (15)
30) Sc 8, Change the color! Proceed with a dark-grey: sc 7 (16)
31) Dec, sc 13 (14)
32) Dec, sc 12 (13)
33) Sc 13

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 34) Dec, sc 5, Change the color! Proceed with a light-grey: sc 6 (12)
35) Sc 12
36) Dec, sc 10 (11)

Stuff the detail, but not too firmly, just to give it a shape.

37) Sc 11
38) Sc 6, Change the color! Proceed with a skin color: sc 5 (11)
39) Sc 11 Make 3 shift stitches. Here is a new beginning.
40) Dec, sc 4, inc, sc 4 (11)
Make a shift stitch
41) Sc 5, inc, sc 5 (12)
42) Sc 12
43) Dec, sc 4, inc, sc 5 (12)
44) Inc, sc 4, dec, sc 5 (12)
Make a shift stitch
45) Sc 12
46) Inc, sc 3, dec 2, sc 4 (11)
Make a shift stitch
47) Sc 2, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 2 (9)
48) Sc 9
49) Dec 3, leave 3 st. unworked. Picture –>
Close the opening.

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BREASTS (2 details)
Use the skin color yarn and a 2.0 mm crochet hook.
Crochet in spiral (in rounds).
If you prefer to start with magic ring (MR), then skip the round 0) and make the number of
stitches indicated in the round 1) into MR.

0) Chain 2
1) Sc 6 into the 2nd chain from the hook (6)
2) Inc 6 (12)
3) (Sc 1, inc)*6 (18)
4) (Sc 2, inc)*6 (24)
5) Sc 24,
6) Inc 3, sc 21
7) Sc 6, ss 1, leave the round unfinished.

Finish as an open piece leaving a long tail.

Mark the 10th stitch to the right from the last stitch (including it), and the 2nd stitch to the left
from the last stitch on the other detail (see the left picture below).

Sew 5 stitches of one detail to a corresponding 5 stitches of the other detail, so the seam is
on the wrong side (see the right picture below).

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BRA (2 details)
Use the black yarn and a 2.0 mm crochet hook.
Crochet in spiral (in rounds).
0) Chain 5
1) Inc into the 2nd chain from the hook, sc 2, sc 3 into 1 st., sc 2, sc 1 into the same place where
the first increase was made (10)
2) Inc 2, sc 2, inc 3, sc 2, inc (16)
3) (Sc 1, inc)*2, sc 3, (inc, sc 1)*2, inc, sc 3, inc (22)
4) (Sc 1, inc)*2, sc 6, (inc, sc 1)*2, inc, sc 6, inc (28)

VIDEO: Rounds 5 - 6 of the bra (add-on to a MonoxaCrochetToys crochet pattern)

5) Sc 3, sc 1* (red stitch in the right picture below), chain 5 (left picture below) –> into
this chain: (ss 1, sc 3),
sc 1 into the same place, where the marked * stitch was made, (lower blue stitch in the
middle picture below)
dec, sc 7, sc 1**,
chain 2 –> into this chain: (sc 1),
sc 1 into the same place, where the marked ** stitch was made, inc, sc 13 (42) (the right
picture below)

6) Sc 4, inc, sc 3, sc 1*** (this stitch is made into the tip of the first chain of the round 5),
chain 3, Picture –> into this chain: (sc 2),
sc 1 into the same place, where the marked *** stitch was made, Picture,
sc 3, sc3together (decrease made of three stitches), Picture, ch 1, sc 10, sc3into1
(increase made of three stitches), Picture, sc 16, ss 1 (53)

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 Finish as an open piece.

VIDEO: How to sew two details of the bra together

Turn one detail wrong side up and sew two details together with 9-10 stitches.
VIDEO: How to make the lower edge of the bra

When two details are joined, add two rows to the lower part of the bra:
1) Turn the detail wrong side up, join the yarn to last stitch of the rnd 6), ss 1, sc 34, ss 2
(37)
Finish as an open piece leaving a long tail (you will need it to sew bra to the torso).

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RIGHT LEG (the one with all the tattoos)
Use the dark-grey yarn and a 2.0 mm crochet hook.
Crochet in spiral. Detail starts with a circle.
If you prefer to start with magic ring (MR), then skip the round 0) and make the number of
stitches indicated in the round 1) into MR.

You start with a knee with the dark-grey color:

0) Chain 2
1) Sc 6 into the 2nd chain from the hook (6)
2) Inc 6 (12)
3) (Sc 1, inc)*6 (18)
4) Sc 18
5) (Sc 2, inc)*6 (24)
6) Sc 7, (inc, sc 3)*3, sc 4, inc (28)
7) Sc 10, (inc, sc 2)*2, inc, sc 11 (31)

VIDEO: Round 8) of the leg

8) Sc 9, ch 5 (that is a “bridge”), skip 14 st. (mark the last), sc 8 (22)

Now you are going to proceed with a thigh:

9) Sc 8, inc, along the “bridge”: (sc 2, inc, sc 2), inc, sc 7 (25)

10) Sc 25
11) Dec, sc 7, (inc, sc 3)*2, inc, sc 7 (27)

Change the color! Proceed with the light-grey yarn.

12) Sc 27
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 15) Sc 9, (inc, sc 4)*2, inc, sc 7 (30) Make a shift stitch
13) Sc 9, (inc, sc 5)*2, inc, sc 8 (33)
14) Sc 33

Change the color! Proceed with the skin color yarn.

15) Sc 10, (inc, sc 6)*2, inc, sc 8 (36)
16) Sc 36 Make a shift stitch
17) Sc 36
18) Sc 10, (inc, sc 7)*2, inc, sc 9 (39)
19) Sc 39
20) Sc 39
21) Dec, leave the round unfinished

Finish as an open piece. Picture –>

Now you are going to proceed with a calf:

Check the video for the 20th round of the forearm – it is similar:
Round 20) of the forearm

1) Attach the dark-grey yarn to the marked stitch

see the picture –>
and make chain 1 (counts as a stitch), sc 1 into the
“wall”, sc 5 along the “bridge”, sc 1 into the “wall”
(22)
2) Sc 7, leave the round unfinished.

Here will be a new beginning. Move the marker.

3) Sc 8, dec, inc, sc 1, inc, dec, sc 7 (22)

4) Inc, sc 10, dec, sc 9 (22) Make a shift stitch
5) Sc 11, dec, sc 8, inc (22)
6) Sc 11, dec, sc 8, inc (22)

Change the color! Proceed with the light-grey yarn.

7) Sc 10, dec, sc 9, inc (22)
8) Sc 10, dec, sc 9, inc (22)

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 9) Sc 10, dec, sc 9, inc (22)

Stuff the detail.

IMPORTANT: Stuff the legs and the whole body really well: the body should be heavy enough
to hold a big head of this doll.

Change the color! Proceed with the skin color yarn.

10) Sc 8, dec, sc 1, dec, sc 8, inc (21)
11) Sc 9, dec, sc 9, inc (21)
12) Sc 7, dec, sc 1, dec, sc 7, inc, leave 1 st. unworked (20)
13) Sc 7, dec, sc 1, dec, sc 7, inc (19)

14) Sc 6, dec, sc 1, dec, sc 7, inc (18)

15) Sc 5, dec, sc 1, dec, sc 6, inc, leave 1 st. unworked (17)
16) Sc 7, dec, sc 7, inc (17)
17) Sc 6, dec, sc 7, inc,
leave 1 st. unworked (17)
18) Sc 7, dec, sc 7, inc (17)
19) Sc 5, dec, sc 1, dec, sc 6, inc (16)
20) Inc, sc 6, inc 2, sc 7 (19)
21) Inc, sc 2, dec, ss 1,
leave the round unfinished.

Stuff the detail. Finish as an open piece.

Picture –>

LEFT LEG
Use the skin color yarn and a 2.0 mm crochet hook. Use the same pattern as for the right leg
but without changing the color.
Stuff the detail.
Finish as an open piece.

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BUTTOCKS
Use the skin color yarn and a 2.0 mm crochet hook.
Crochet in spiral (in rounds).
The last stitches of the last rounds of the legs are
marked in the picture –>

0) Proceed crocheting along the left leg (the one

without color changing): sc 6, sc 5, turn (10)

Make one half row: Ch 1, sc 5 (those 5 st. is a “bridge” – see green squares in the
right picture below (on the left leg)) (6)

1) Now you are going to join this “bridge” to the right leg:

Sc 1 into the 6th stitch to the left from last stitch of the right leg
(see the picture at the beginning of the page),
sc 6,
sc 18, (inc, sc 1)*3, inc,
dec (one st. of the right leg and one st. of the “bridge”),
note, that 5 stitches of the right leg remain unworked – you sew them later to the bridge
(see green squares in the right picture above (right leg)),
dec (one st. of the “bridge” and st. of the left leg), crochet along the left leg:
inc, (sc 1, inc)*3, sc 19 (76)

Check if you have the same number of stitches, make sure that you did not lose some of
them somewhere near the “bridge” (see the right picture above):
You need to have36 st. along the right leg (sc 1 + sc 6 + sc 18 + (inc, sc 1)*3 + inc),
36 st. along the left leg (sc 6 + inc + (sc 1, inc)*3 + sc 19), 2 st. along the bridge on the belly
side, dec 2 along the bridge on the back side =
76 (see the right picture above).

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Now legs are joined, so you can proceed with the buttocks.

2) Sc 5, dec (one st. of the left leg and one st. of the “bridge”), dec (one st. of the “bridge” and st.
of the right leg), (sc 4, dec)*3, sc 8, inc, sc 8, skip 2 st. (those skips in the middle of the
round create a fold between the buttocks),
sc 8, inc, sc 8, (dec, sc 4)*2, leave 1 st. unworked (69)

3) Dec, sc 38, skip 2 st., sc 27 (66) Make 6 shift stitches.

Here is a new beginning, in the center of the front side.

Sew the “bridge” to the 5 unworked stitches of the right leg (see the left picture below):

4) (Sc 4, dec)*2, sc 7, (inc, sc 4)*2, inc, sc 2, skip 2 st.,

sc 2, inc, (sc 4, inc)*2, sc 7, (dec, sc 4)*2 (66)
5) Sc 32, skip 2 st., sc 32 (64)

During the next 8 rounds you are going to change the color to black at the beginning and at
the end – that will help you to create the front part of the panties. The stitches in black color
are made in bold.

6) Sc 1, Sc 30, skip 2 st., sc 30, sc 1 (62)

7) Sc 2, sc 19, inc, sc 8, skip 2 st., sc 8, inc, sc 20, sc 1 (62) Make a shift stitch in black
8) Sc 2, sc 27, inc, skip 2 st., inc, sc 27, sc 2 (62)
9) Sc 2, sc 26, inc, sc 1 skip 2 st., sc 1, inc, sc 26, sc 2 (62)
10) Sc 3, 15, (dec, sc 4)*5, sc 12, sc 2 (57) Make a shift stitch in black
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 11) Sc 3, sc 51, sc 3 (57)
12) Sc 4, 12, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 7, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 15, sc 3 (53)
13) Sc 4, 21, dec, sc 23, sc 3 (52)

Don’t change the color! Proceed with the black yarn. Now you are going to crochet a waist:

14) Back loops only: Sc 11, (dec, sc 3)*3, (sc 3, dec)*3, sc 11 (46) Make a shift stitch
15) Sc 8, (dec, sc 3)*2, dec, sc 6, dec, (sc 3, dec)*2, sc 8 (40)
16) Sc 5, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 5 (34)
Stuff the buttocks.
Attention! Pay attention to the height (volume) of the buttocks, not the width of the hips, let
them grow up, not into the sides.

17) Sc 9, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 9 (30)

18) Sc 30
19) Sc 30 Make a shift stitch
20) Sc 29, inc (31)

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Now you are going to crochet a torso:

TORSO
21) Sc 3, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 3, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 5 (37)
22) Sc 11, inc, sc 3, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 3, inc, sc 12 (41)
23) Inc, sc 3, inc, sc 32, inc, sc 3 (44) Make a shift stitch

Now you are going to make half-rows:

24) Sc 16, ss 1, turn

25) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 15, here you cross the marker (at the end of the rnd 23),
sc 16, ss 1, leave 1 st. unworked, turn (33)
26) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 29, ss 1, leave 1 st. unworked, turn (31)
27) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 27, ss 1, leave 1 st. unworked, turn (29)
28) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 25, ss 1, leave 1 st. unworked, turn (27)
29) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 23, ss 1, leave 1 st. unworked, turn (25)
30) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 21, ss 1, leave 1 st. unworked, turn (23)
31) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, (sc 5, dec)*2, sc 5, ss 1, leave 1 st. unworked, turn (19)
32) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 2, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 4, don’t turn (15)

Now you are going to proceed with full rounds:

33) Into the “steps”: (sc 3 onto one stitch)*4 (see the left and the middle pic. below);
along the back: sc 4, inc, sc 5,
into the “steps”: (sc 3 onto one stitch)*4;
Sc 7 along the chest (see the right picture below);
Here is the center of the chest.

Change the color! Proceed with the skin color yarn: back loops only: ss 7 ( 49)

34) Back loops only: ss 42, leave the round unfinished.

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Here is a new beginning, in the center of the chest.
35) Back loops only: (sc 7, inc)*2, sc 16, inc, sc 7, inc, sc 8 (53) Make a shift stitch

Now you are going to make half-rows:

36) Sc 18, ss 1, turn (19)

37) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 35, ss 1, turn, see the picture below (37)

38) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 8, (dec, sc 6)*2, dec, sc 7, ss 1, leave 1 st. unworked,
turn (32)
39) Decreases in this rnd are made using back loops only:
Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 5, dec, sc 5, dec (this stitch should be in the
middle of the chest – mark it), sc 6, dec, sc 6, ss 1, leave 1 st. unworked, turn (27)
40) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 5, dec, (sc 4, dec)*2, sc 4, ss 1, leave 1 st. unworked,
turn (22)
41) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 18, ss 1, leave 1 st. unworked, turn (20)
42) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 16, ss 1, leave 1 st. unworked, turn (18)
43) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 14, ss 1, leave 1 st. unworked, turn (16)
44) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 1, (dec, sc 2)*2, dec, sc 2, leave 1 st. unworked,
don’t turn (11)

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Now you are going to proceed with full rounds:

45) Into the “steps”(see the picture above):

(sc 3 onto one stitch)*4;
Sc 15 into the back,
Into the “steps”: (sc 3 onto one stitch)*4;
Sc 5, leave 5 st. unworked (49)
46) Sc 3, dec, sc 5, you will finish this round later: now you have to sew the breasts and
bra the body:

How to sew the breasts and bra to the body

Sew the breasts to the body (see the pictures below), important: don’t forget to stuff them!

Sew the bra to the breast and body (see the pictures below).

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 How to crochet the arms to the body

Proceed with the round 46):

sc 6 with the 6 stitches of the right arm (the last 6 stitches of the last round of the right arm),
Sc 17,
sc 6 with the 6 stitches of the left arm (the first 6 stitches of the last round of the left arm),
sc 5, dec, sc 3
(57 = 9 st. of the chest + 11 remaining stitches of the right arm + 17 st. of the back + 11
remaining stitches of the left arm + 9 st. of the chest )
Stuff the waist.

47) Dec, sc 6, dec (one st. of the chest and 1 st. of the right arm),
sc 10 along the right arm, dec (1 st. of the right arm and one st. of the back),
sc 15 along the back, dec (one st. of the back and 1 st. of the left arm),
sc 10 along the left arm, dec (one st. of the left arm and one st. of the chest),
sc 6, dec (53)

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 48) Sc 1, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 36, dec, sc 4, dec (49) Make a shift stitch
49) Sc 4, sc3together, ch 6, skip 11 (this makes an opening for the shoulder),
sc3together, sc 7, sc3together, ch 6, skip 11 (this makes an opening for the
shoulder), sc3together, sc 4 (31) See the picture below.

Stuff the chest.

Now you are going to proceed with the neck:

50) Dec, sc 2, sc3together (1 st. of the chest, 2 st. of the “bridge”), sc 3,

sc3together (1 st. of the “bridge”, 2 st. of the back), sc 5,
sc3together (2 st. of the back, 1 st. of the “bridge”), sc 3,
sc3together (2 st. of the “bridge”, 1 st. of the chest), sc 2, dec (21)

Starting from the next round use a fortifying thread.

VIDEO: How to add a fortifying thread to the neck

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 51) Sc 21
52) Inc, sc 20 (22) Make a shift stitch
Now you are going to make half-rows:

53) Sc 5, ss 1, leave the round unfinished, turn (6)

54) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 12, ss 1, turn
(14)
55) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 11, ss 1 (13)
Finish as an open piece. Picture –>

Close the shoulders:

1) Join the thread of yarn to an opening (no matter what stitch), making ch 1 (counts as a
stitch), sc 18 (19)
2) Sc 1, dec 9 (10)

Close the opening. Repeat with the second shoulder. Stuff the shoulders and neck.
Now you can sew right hand to the left arm (see the pictures below).

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HAIR
Use black yarn and a 2.5 mm crochet hook.
Crochet in spiral (in rounds).
If you prefer to start with magic ring (MR), then skip round 0) and make the number of
stitches indicated in the round 1) into MR.

0) Chain 2
1) Sc 6 into the 2nd chain from the hook (6)
2) Inc 6 (12)
3) (Sc 1, inc)*6 (18)
4) (Sc 2, inc)*6 (24)
5) (Sc 3, inc)*6 (30)
6) (Sc 4, inc)*6 (36)
7) (Sc 5, inc)*6 (42)
8) (Sc 6, inc)*6 (48)
9) (Sc 7, inc)*6 (54)
10) (Sc 8, inc)*6 (60)
11) (Sc 9, inc)*6 (66)
12) (Sc 10, inc)*6 (72)
13) (Sc 11, inc)*6 (78)
14) Sc 78
15) Sc 78
16) Sc 78 Make a shift stitch

Now you are going to make half-rows:

Sc 1, turn
17) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 56, turn (57)
Picture –>

18) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 27, dec, sc 26, turn (55)
19) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 53, turn (54)
20) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 52, turn (53)
21) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 25, back loops only (blo): dec, both loops again: sc 24,
turn (51)
22) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 49, turn (50)
23) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 23, blo: dec, both: sc 23, turn (48)
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 24) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 46, turn (47)
25) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 45, turn (46)
26) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 44, turn (45)
27) Sc 1 into the 1st st., sc 13, blo: dec, both: sc 13, blo: dec, both: sc 14, turn (43)
28) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 41, turn (42)
29) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 40, turn (41)
30) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 12, dec, sc 11, dec, sc 12, turn (38)
31) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 36, turn (37)
32) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 35, turn (36)
33) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 34, turn (35)
34) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 33, turn (34)
35) Sc 1 into the 1st st., sc 9, blo: dec, both: sc 10, blo: dec, both: sc 10, turn (32)
36) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, (sc 8, dec)*3, turn (28)
37) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 7, blo: dec, both: sc 6, blo: dec, both: sc 7, blo: dec,
turn (24)
38) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 5, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 5, dec, turn (20)
39) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, (sc 4, blo: dec)*3, turn (16)
40) Sc 1 into the 1st st., sc 15, turn (16)
41) Sc 1 into the 1st st., sc 15 don’t turn! (16)

Now you will crochet a right “whiskers”, making it in rows:

42) Inc into the same place where the last st. of the rnd 41 was made, sc 24, turn (20)

VIDEO: How to crochet the hair: rounds 42 - 51

43) Dec (the 2nd and the 3rd stitch), sc 6, sc3into1 (make 3 single crochet stitches into one stitch)
turn (10)
44) Ch 2 –> sc 1 into this chain, inc, sc 7, ss 1, leave 1 st. unfinished, turn (13)
45) Ss 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, ss 1, sc 7, inc, turn (11)
46) Ch 2 –> sc 1 into this chain, (sc 3, dec)*2, sc 4, hdc2into1 (make 2 half double crochet
stitches into one stitch) into the point between the whiskers and the bangs) (17)

Now you will crochet along the bangs:

47) Sc 4, dec, sc 4, sc 2*, sc 4, dec, sc 4 (20)

Now you will crochet a left “whiskers”, making it in rows:

48) Sc 8, sc3into1, turn (11)
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 49) Ch 2 –> sc 1 into this chain, inc, sc 8, ss 1, leave 1 st. unfinished, turn (14)
50) Dec (ss decrease) (the 2nd and the 3rd stitch), ss 1, sc 7, inc, turn (11)
51) Ch 2 –> sc 1 into this chain, (sc 3, blo: dec)*2, sc 4, ss 1 (14)
Finish as an open peace, leaving a long tail that you will use to sew the hair to the head.

Crochet sc 15 along the area that remained

unfinished.

Before you start crocheting the head

you may want to make the eyelashes:

How to make the eyes and eyelashes

VIDEO: How to make cotton eyelashes

Chain 14, tighten the last stitch, so you have 13 free stitches: you use 7
of them to create upper eyelid eyelashes and 4 of them to create lower
eyelid eyelashes, there will remain 2 free stitches between them.

Cut 22 about 10 cm long pieces of black yarn,

fold them and tie them to the initial chain.

After you cut eyelashes as it is shown in the video, the

longest will be about 1.1 cm,
the shortest – about 0.8 cm.
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HEAD
Use the skin color yarn and a 2.0 mm crochet hook.
Crochet in spiral (in rounds).

0) Chain 9

№ Left side of the Face Right side of the head Back Left side of the №
of head of head of st. at
the the the end
rou head of the
nd round
1) Inc into the 2nd stitch Sc 6 Sc4into1 (= make 4 single crochet Sc 6 Inc into the same (20)
from stitches into one st.) place where the first
increase was made

2) Inc 2 Sc 6 Inc 4 Sc 6 Inc 2 (28)

Make a
shift st.
3) (Inc, sc 1)*2 Sc 6 (Sc 1 , inc)*2, (inc, sc 1)*2 Sc 6 (Sc 1 , inc)*2 (36)
4) (Sc 1 , inc)*2, sc 2 Sc 6 Sc 2, (inc, sc1)*2, (sc1, inc)*2, sc 2 Sc 6 Sc 2, (inc, sc 1)*2 (44)
5) (Inc, sc 3)*2 Sc 6 (Sc 3, inc)*2, (inc, sc 3)*2 Sc 6 (Sc 3, inc)*2 (52)
6) Sc 1, inc, sc 3, inc, Sc 6 Sc 4, inc, sc 3, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 3, Sc 6 Sc 4, inc, sc 3, inc, (60)
sc 4 inc, sc 4 sc 1
7) Sc 1, inc, sc 3, inc, Sc 6 Sc 6, inc* (mark this stitch), sc 3, Sc 6 Sc 6, inc**, sc 3, (68)
sc 6 inc, sc 2, inc, sc 3, inc**, sc 6 (* - inc, sc 1 (** –
this increase will be right above shows the ends of
the tip of the shoulder) (** – the edge of the
shows the ends of the edge of the lower hair line)
lower hair line)
8) Sc 6, inc, sc 7 Sc 6 Sc 7, inc, sc 12, inc, sc 7 Sc 6 Sc 7, inc, sc 6 (72)
See the
picture
below

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9) Sc 72
10) Sc 72 Make a shift stitch
11) Sc 72
12) Sc 34, sc 1* (mark this stitch), sc 37 (72) (* shows the tip of the right “whiskers”)
13) Sc 2, sc 1* (mark this stitch), sc 69 (72) Make a shift stitch (* shows the tip of the
left “whiskers”)
14) Sc 72
15) Sc 10, ch 1, skip 1 (mark it), sc 14, skip 1 (mark it), ch 1, sc 46 (72) (those are the
holes, where you will insert the eyes later)
16) Sc 72 Make a shift stitch
17) Sc 18, leave the round unfinished.

Here is a new beginning of the round.

18) Sc 72
19) Sc 72
20) Sc 72
21) Sc 72 Make a shift stitch
22) Sc 72
23) Sc 72
24) Sc 72
25) Sc 72 Make a shift stitch
26) Sc 72
27) Sc 72
28) Sc 72
29) Sc 1* (mark this stitch), sc 72 (72) ) (* shows the center of the upper hairline, the
bangs)
Front Back

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 30) Sc 72 Make a shift stitch
31) Sc 72
32) Sc 72
33) Sc 55, leave the round unfinished.

Here is a new beginning of the round.

34) (Sc 10, dec)*6 (66)

35) (Sc 9, dec)*6 (60) Make a shift stitch
36) (Sc 8, dec)*6 (54)

Important! Insert the eyes. Picture –>

VIDEO: How to shape and insert the eyes

Important! Remove the thread that you used to

mark the area on the bottom of the head (you
secured the nylon thread in the center of this area).

Once you have inserted the eyes – stuff the head.

Important! Stuff the head not too firmly: if it is too heavy – the doll loses its balance.

VIDEO: How to stuff the head

37) (Sc 7, dec)*6 (48)

38) (Sc 6, dec)*6 (42) Make a shift stitch
Stuff the head, but not too firmly, just to give it an even shape, otherwise it will be too
heavy.

39) (Sc 5, dec)*6 (36)

40) (Sc 4, dec)*6 (30)
Stuff the head, but not too firmly.

41) (Sc 3, dec)*6 (24)

Stuff the head, but not too firmly.

42) (Sc 2, dec)*6 (18)

43) Dec 7, leave 4 st. unfinished. Close the opening.
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 How to sew the hair to the head and how to attach the
ears
VIDEO: How to sew the hair to the head

Sew the front hairline and “whiskers” to the head, using the stitches marked in rounds 7, 12,
13, 29 of the head as reference points.
You may want to move them a little, if your crochet or stuffing technique is different from
mine, that is ok.
Stuff the empty space between the head and the hair detail a little bit: this extra volume of
the hair creates a hair-do, like on the main title picture of the pattern.

How to shape the face

VIDEO: How to shape the face
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HAIR “SNAIL” – bigger piece (front)
Use the black yarn and a 2.5 mm crochet hook.
Crochet in spiral (in rounds).

0) Chain 11, join into circle

1)– 97) Sc 11 or crochet till you have about a 43 cm long tube that weighs about 18 gr.

HAIR “SNAIL” – smaller piece (back)

Use the black yarn and a 2.5 mm crochet hook.
Crochet in spiral (in rounds).

0) Chain 11, join into circle

1)– 83) Sc 11 or crochet till you have about a 35 cm long tube, that weighs about 11 gr.

Bow part 1
Use the dark red yarn and a 2.5 mm crochet hook.
Crochet in rows.
0) Chain 83 or make as many stitches as you need to wrap this lace around your doll’s
head: you have to adjust this detail to your work.
1) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 82, turn (83)
2) Ch 1, sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 82, turn (83)
3) Ch 1, sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 82 (83)
Finish as an open piece.

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Bow part 2
Use the dark red yarn and a 2.5 mm crochet hook.
Crochet in rounds (in spiral).

0) Chain 65
1) Ss 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, ss 63, join into a circle (64)
2) Back loops only: sc 64
3) Sc 64
4) Sc 64
5) Sc 64
6) Sc 64
7) Sc 64 Make 2 shift stitches
8) Front loops only: ss 64
9) Ss 64 using the loops remained unworked
in round 8) Picture –>
Finish as an open piece.

Bow part 3
Use the dark red yarn and a 2.5 mm crochet hook.
Crochet in rows.
0) Chain 17
1) Sc 16, turn (16)
2) Sc 16, turn (16)
3) Sc 16, turn (16)
Finish as an open piece.

How to assemble a bow

Wrap part 3 over part 2 and sew the ends. Pull part 1
between part 2 and part three, and once you are certain
about the length of part 1 – sew the ends. See the picture
below.

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EARS (2 pieces)
Use the skin color yarn and a 2 mm crochet hook.
Crochet in spiral (in rounds).

0) Chain 4
1) Inc into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 1, sc 3 into 1 st., sc 1, sc 1 into the same place where
the first increase was made (8)
2) Inc 8 (16)
3) Inc, sc 2, inc, ss 1, leave the round unfinished.

Fold and sew the sides together using the inner loops.

PANTIES
Use the black yarn and a 1.5 mm crochet hook.
Crochet in rows.

0) Chain 13
1) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 9, dec, turn (12)
2) Ch 1, dec (the 3rd and the 4th loop from the hook), sc 5, dec, leave 1 st. unworked, turn (7)
3) Ch 1, sc 1 into the 3rd st. from the hook, sc 3, dec, turn (5)
4) Ch 1, sc 1 into the 3rd st. from the hook, sc 3, turn (4)
5) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 2, turn (3)
6) Ch 1, sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 1, turn (2)
7) Ch 1, sc 1 into the 1st st. from the hook, sc 2, turn (3)
8) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook, sc 1, turn (2)
9) Sc 1 into the 2nd st. from the hook see the picture below (1)

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 10) Chain 23 Picture –>

Now crochet around the detail:

11) Along the chain: sc 22,
along the side of the triangle: sc 10, sc 1* into the corner ( see the left picture below),
make the tips of the triangle sharper: ch 4 –> ss 1, sc 2, sc 1 into the same place where the
marked * st. was made,
along the bottom of the triangle: (sc 11, sc 1** into the corner),
make the tips of the triangle sharper: ch 4 –> ss 1, sc 2, sc 1 into the same place where the
marked ** st. was made,
along the side of the triangle: sc 10,
along the string: sc 2, ss 2 (see the
picture on the right).

Finish as an open piece,

leaving a long tail to sew panties to the body.

STRAP of a swimming suite

Use the black yarn and a 2.0 mm crochet hook.
Crochet in rows.
0) Chain 35
1) Ss into the 2nd chain from the hook, sc 33 (34)
Finish as an open piece, leaving a tail to sew the strap to the swimming suite.

38
EYELIDS (2 details)
Use the black yarn and a 2.0 mm crochet hook.
0) Chain 9
Finish as an open piece, hide the tail.

Brows (2 details)
Use the black yarn and a 1.5 mm crochet hook.
0) Chain 8
1) Ss 1 into the 2nd chain from the hook, sc 3, leave the row unfinished (7)
Finish as an open piece, hide the tail.

LIPS
I have made those lips out of polymer clay.

VIDEO: How to make the lips (polymer clay)

Important: you may want to make two needle holes in the middle
of the detail (between the lips) before boiling, so you could sew the
lips to the face later.

Boil them in water for 3-4 minutes, cover with a nail polisher and glue to the face.

39
 Assembling
How to sew the shoes to the legs
Using the inner (back) loops of the round 14) you will attach the boot to the ankle of the leg.
Using the outer (front) loops of the round 14) you will make a round of slip stitches to give a
shoe a finished look.

VIDEO: How to shape the heel

How to sew head to the body

VIDEO: How to sew the head to the body and fortify the neck

Important! This marked area is different from the one you made when you shaped the face.

40
 How to attach the panties to the body

How to place eyelids, eyebrows and lips on the face

41
 How to make the
tattoos
VIDEO: How to make tattoos on a
crochet toy

How to pose the hands

How to place the bow on the head

42
 How to sew the hair “snails” to the head
Roll up two hair tubes into “snails” and fix them with the sewing pins or needles first.
Those two details will help your doll to gain the balance: if it falls to the back, you make the
front hair “snail” heavier, by adding extra rounds or by sewing a
heavier bead to the back side of it. Picture–>
If it falls to the front, you do the same trick with the back piece.

Why does the doll lose its balance?

If you look at the proportions, you may notice that this doll has a
very big head. So, if you stuff the head too much it becomes too
heavy and changes the balance of the whole toy.
The weight of the hair “snails”, the extra support in the heck (hair roll inside) and the support
of the left hand help to resolve that issue.

Once the right weight of the hair “snails” is found, you can fix the shape with glue or thread
of yarn.

VIDEO: What to do if the head is too heavy and the doll loses its balance

☺ That is IT! You made it! Your Pin-up girl is alive and it’s the best toy in the world!
If you have any questions, rely on my unlimited support and contact me on Facebook –
@monoxatoys

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